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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3149520 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55504 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55504) diff --git a/old/55504-0.txt b/old/55504-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index d817f4b..0000000 --- a/old/55504-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5589 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Tower of London, by Arthur Poyser - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Tower of London - -Author: Arthur Poyser - -Illustrator: John Fulleylove - -Release Date: September 7, 2017 [EBook #55504] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOWER OF LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - THE TOWER OF LONDON - - AGENTS - - - AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - - AUSTRALASIA THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS, MELBOURNE - - CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. - 27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO - - INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. - MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY - 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA - - -[Illustration: THE WHITE TOWER (KEEP), WITH THE LANTHORN TOWER IN THE -FOREGROUND, FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE] - - - - - THE - TOWER OF LONDON - - PAINTED BY - JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I. - - DESCRIBED BY - ARTHUR POYSER - - [Illustration] - - PUBLISHED BY A. & C. - BLACK · LONDON · MCMVIII - - - - - TO - MY FATHER - Thomas Cooper Poyser - THIS BOOK IS - DEDICATED - - Full in the midst a mighty pile arose, - Where iron-grated gates their strength oppose - To each invading step, and, strong and steep, - The battled walls arose, the fosse sunk deep. - Slow round the fortress rolled the sluggish stream, - And high in middle air the warder’s turrets gleam. - _Anonymous._ - - - - -PREFACE - - -The history of the Tower of London is so closely bound up with the -history of England, from the Norman Conquest onwards, that it is very -difficult to write a record of the one without appearing to have -attempted to write a record of the other. A full history of the Tower -may read like an attenuated history of England. When the problem has to -be solved within the compass of a single chapter the difficulties are -very considerably increased. Then again, if a detailed account of Tower -annals has been given in a preliminary chapter, there is nothing of any -interest left to say when describing a visit to the several buildings -within the Tower walls. If the dramatic scene in the Council Chamber of -the White Tower, which ended in Lord Hastings being sent, with scant -ceremony, to the block on the Green below by Richard III., be described -in its proper place in the Historical Sketch (Chapter II.) it cannot -again be spoken of in detail when the visit is paid (Chapter III.) to -the room in which the event took place. Yet it is beyond doubt that a -visitor to the Tower would rather be reminded of that tragic Council -meeting when in the Council Chamber itself, than come upon it in the -course of the sketch of Tower history, which he would probably have read -at home beforehand and forgotten in detail. Still, those who read this -book and have no opportunity of visiting the Tower expect that the -characters in the moving drama of its history shall have some semblance -of life as they walk across the stage. Such a reader demands more than -mere names and dates, or he will skip an historical chapter as being -intolerably dull. It is no consolation to him to be told that if he will -take patience and walk through and round the Tower, in imagination, by -keeping his temper and kindly reading Chapters III. and IV., he will -discover that much of the human interest omitted in the “history” will -be found by the wayside in the “walks.” - -In former and larger books on the Tower it will be seen that either the -purely historical record under the headings of successive Kings and -Queens dwarfs to insignificance the account of the buildings themselves, -or the description of the several towers and buildings which constitute -the fortress-prison occupies the bulk of the volume, to the exclusion of -any adequate historical record giving names and dates in chronological -order. But like most difficulties, I think this one can be solved by a -judicious compromise; the chapters must be tuned to “equal temperament.” -I have endeavoured to keep the balance of the several sections as even -as possible; and an historic candidate for the honour of the headsman’s -axe, who has been given immortality in the pages of English history by -reason of the manner in which he was put to death, passed over in one -chapter will have some justice done to his memory in another. - -I have attempted no pictorial description of the Tower as a whole or in -its several parts. I dared not carry the theory I have just propounded -into the realms of word-painting. Mr. Fulleylove has relieved me of that -duty. He has brought the Tower buildings, as they stand to-day, before -the eyes of all who turn these pages. This he has done with the brush -infinitely better than I could do it with the pen. - -Though the pages at my disposal are so few in number, I have had the -temerity to attempt a description of much that is of interest outside -Tower walls. I trust that this boldness may not prove, after all, to be -a misplaced virtue. My wish has been to persuade those who come to visit -the Tower that there is a great deal to be seen in its immediate -vicinity that the majority of visitors have hitherto neglected, either -for want of time or want of guidance. A noble and historic building like -the Tower resembles a venerable tree whose roots have spread into the -soil in all directions, during the uncounted years of its existence, far -beyond the position of its stem. - -I tender grateful thanks to Lieutenant-General Sir George Bryan Milman, -K.C.B., Major of the Tower, for much kindness, both to Mr. Fulleylove -and myself; and I can hardly express my indebtedness to the Rev. W. K. -Fleming, who has so ungrudgingly given of his time to the task of -correcting the proof-sheets. - - ARTHUR POYSER. - -TRINITY SQUARE, - - TOWER HILL, E.C. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAPTER I - -PAGE - -INTRODUCTION 1 - -CHAPTER II - -HISTORICAL SKETCH 21 - -CHAPTER III - -A WALK THROUGH THE TOWER 87 - -CHAPTER IV - -A WALK ROUND THE TOWER 134 - -CHAPTER V - -TOWER HILL 158 - -CHAPTER VI - -ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER 169 - -INDEX 215 - - - When our gallant Norman foes - Made our merry land their own, - And the Saxons from the Conqueror were flying, - At his bidding it arose, - In its panoply of stone, - A sentinel unliving and undying. - Insensible, I trow, - As a sentinel should be, - Though a queen to save her head should come a-suing; - There’s a legend on its brow - That is eloquent to me, - And it tells of duty done and duty doing. - - - “The screw may twist and the rack may turn, - And men may bleed and men may burn, - On London town and all its hoard - It keeps its solemn watch and ward!” - - - Within its wall of rock - The flower of the brave - Have perished with a constancy unshaken. - From the dungeon to the block, - From the scaffold to the grave, - Is a journey many gallant hearts have taken. - And the wicked flames may hiss - Round the heroes who have fought - For conscience and for home in all its beauty, - But the grim old fortalice - Takes little heed of aught - That comes not in the measure of its duty. - - - “The screw may twist and the rack may turn, - And men may bleed and men may burn, - On London town and all its hoard - It keeps its solemn watch and ward!” - SIR WILLIAM GILBERT. - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - FACING PAGE - -1. The White Tower (Keep), with the Lanthorn Tower in -the Foreground, from the Tower Bridge _Frontispiece_ - -2. The Byward and Bell Towers, with the King’s House -on the right, looking from the Traitor’s Gate 8 - -3. Top of the Portcullis in Bloody Tower 24 - -4. Portion of the Armoury, White Tower 40 - -5. Panorama of the Tower and Greenwich in 1543, by -Anthony van den Wyngaerde 48 and 49 - -6. The Council Chamber in the King’s House 56 - -7. Gateway of Bloody Tower with entrance to Jewel -House (Wakefield Tower) 80 - -8. Middle Tower (West Front) 90 - -9. The Traitor’s Gate, from within 98 - -10. The Bloody Tower and Jewel House (Wakefield -Tower), looking East 104 - -11. Interior of St. John’s Chapel in the White Tower, -looking East 112 - -12. The King’s House from Tower Green 120 - -13. Principal Room, for State Prisoners, in the Beauchamp -Tower 128 - -14. Chaplain’s House, and Entrance to Church of St. -Peter ad Vincula, Tower Green 132 - -15. Part of a Bastion of Old London Wall, with Clock -Tower of the White Tower 136 - -16. East End of St. John’s Chapel in the White Tower, -from Broad Arrow Tower 146 - -17. The Tower from the Tower Bridge, looking West 150 - -18. The Tower from Tower Hill 156 - -19. The Block, Axe, and Executioner’s Mask 166 - -20. A True and Exact Draught of the Tower Liberties, -surveyed in the year 1597 by Gulielmus Haiward -and J. Gascoyne 172 and 173 - -21. The Tower from Great Tower Street (South Porch of -Allhallows Barking) 184 - -22. Church of Allhallows Barking by the Tower (East -side of South Aisle) 202 - -_Sketch Plan of the Tower at end of Volume._ - - - - -THE TOWER OF LONDON - - - - -CHAPTER I - -INTRODUCTION - - If I were ance at London Tower - Where I was wont to be, - I never mair suld gang frae hame - Till borne on a bier tree. - _Old Scots Ballad._ - - -The Tower as palace and prison has been singularly neglected in -literature. When we consider the part it has played in our history, how -closely it is knit up in the woof and web of our national life, from -far-off days when England had not risen to the measure of her greatness, -down to the last Hanoverian, this fact surprises us. Shakespeare might -well have laid all the scenes of another _Hamlet_ within its walls; -Scott might have given its name to another Waverley Novel. The -possibilities are endless. If Scott had touched it we should have been -spared the gloomy sentimentalities of Ainsworth; Shakespeare, in five -acts, could have given us a truer picture of Tower comedy and tragedy -than the tomes of Bayley and De Ros. Scott would have cast the same -romance over the Tower as he did over the rugged strip of land that lies -between Callander and Inversnaid. We do not go to the Trossachs because -we have read of it in a gazetteer, nor would we seek the Forest of Arden -because we desired to walk in a wood. Burnham Beeches would serve the -purpose equally well. But we go to the Tower because we have some vague -idea that in our school-days we remember it having been mentioned, -during the history lesson, as a place where men were put into dungeons, -sometimes tortured, frequently beheaded. We have some indistinct notion, -too, that our earlier kings lived there, but whether they lived there at -the same time as the men of State they had imprisoned, executed, or -burnt, we should not like to say off-hand. And if the Court was held -here in the Tower, we have never tried to imagine in what part of the -building it could have been properly accommodated. We can accept -Whitehall and Windsor without a murmur, for the very names suggest -kingliness and ample space. But--the Tower! It seems too grim and -grimy, too insignificant in position, too circumscribed to conjure up -visions of olden pageantries of State. It is just here that the -master-hand would have changed our view. A tragedy for the stage of the -Blackfriars Theatre or the Globe in Southwark, the work of a month of -summer mornings at Abbotsford, or of winter afternoons in Castle Street, -would have fixed for all time the essentials in the picture, and we -should have gone to the Tower with the definite aim of seeing the walls -wherein a Malvolio strutted, where a Macbeth made murder, or where a -Romeo pined. As we walked over Tower Green we might have expected to -meet a Dandie Dinmont with the Peppers and Mustards at his heels, a -Rashleigh lurking by, a Dugald Dalgetty of Drumthwacket discussing the -merits of Rhenish wine and _Kirschenwasser_ with the yeomen warders. Had -we lived in the Tower through the greater part of a book, as we are shut -up in Loch Leven Castle with Queen Mary in _The Abbot_, we should have -visited again and again the rooms and cells in which, with Roland Graeme -and the Douglases, we had spent so unforgettable a time in our lives. - -It is true that Shakespeare lays scenes of his historical plays in the -Tower, and that Scott brings Julian Peveril and Nigel within its -Traitor’s Gate, for a space; but the dramatist is merely copying -locality from the history books, and the novelist is so impatient with -the fate that has carried two of his young men under the archway of the -Bloody Tower that he cuts off his chapter with the words, “But the -thoughts and occurrences of a prison are too uniform for a narrative, -and we must now convey our readers into a more bustling scene.” Really, -Sir Walter, this is too scant an excuse to drive us out of one of the -most wonderful buildings in the world to “the spacious mansion of the -Duke of Buckingham with the demesne belonging to it,” the foundations of -which are now covered by the Hotel Cecil, and the “demesne” blotted out -by the buildings of the Strand and the Adelphi. - -“The tide carried them up under a dark and lowering arch, closed at the -upper end by the well-known Traitor’s Gate, formed like a wicket of huge -intersecting bars of wood, through which might be seen a dim and -imperfect view of soldiers and warders upon duty, and of the steep -ascending causeway which leads up from the river into the interior of -the fortress. By this gate--and it is the well-known circumstance which -assigned its name--those accused of State crimes were usually committed -to the Tower. The Thames afforded a secret and silent mode of conveyance -for transporting thither such whose fallen fortunes might move the -commiseration, or whose popular qualities might excite the sympathy, of -the public; and even where no cause for especial secrecy existed, the -peace of the city was undisturbed by the tumult attending the passage of -the prisoner and his guards through the most frequented streets.” Here -we have the beginning of quite an admirable Tower romance. Our hero -lands at the fatal steps, and as he walks up under the Bloody Tower a -handkerchief is dropped down from the window of the cell in which -Archbishop Laud was imprisoned. From within that darkened room “a female -voice, in a tone wherein grief and joy were indescribably mixed, -exclaimed, ‘My son!--my dear son!’” We feel our plot moves quickly when -the warder picks up the mysterious bit of cambric and “looks at it with -the jealous minuteness of one who is accustomed to detect secret -correspondence in the most trifling acts of intercourse. - -“‘There may be writing on it with invisible ink,’ said one of his -comrades. - -“‘It is wetted, but I think it is only with tears,’ answered the -senior. ‘I cannot keep it from the poor gentleman.’ - -“‘Ah, Master Coleby,’ said his comrade, in a gentle tone of reproach, -‘you would have been wearing a better coat than a yeoman’s to-day had it -not been for a tender heart.’” - -“‘It signifies little,’ said old Coleby, ‘while my heart is true to my -King, what I feel in discharging my duty, or what coat keeps my old -bosom from the cold weather.’” - -Spoken like a true son of the old Tower, we say, and feel ourselves -already with Peveril listening to the warders’ talk as they take him to -his cell. We begin to breathe the Tower atmosphere, we hear a groan from -one cell, the clank of chains from another; we see a young yeoman -whispering words of love into the ear of a maid who was born and has -grown up within the battlements that bound us on all sides, and we see -some boys at play round the spot where to-morrow a human being may -suffer death. And over all this little world within the walls, where -comedy and tragedy shake hands each day, rises the Conqueror’s Norman -keep unchanged and unchangeable. Here is a quarry indeed in which to dig -for material for a whole series of novels and plays, and yet Sir Walter -beheads our little romance on Tower Green, and spirits us away “into a -more bustling scene.” - -Shakespeare brings us to the Tower four times in the course of the three -parts of _King Henry VI._ and four times during _King Richard III._ In -the former play we witness the death of the imprisoned Edmund Mortimer; -in the fourth act of Part II. there is a short Tower scene of a dozen -lines; the sixth scene of Part III. Act IV., headed “A room in the -Tower,” brings us to King Henry asking the Lieutenant of the Tower what -fees incurred during his (the King’s), captivity are due to him; and in -the sixth scene of the last act of the same part, we are again in “A -room in the Tower,” where “King Henry is discovered sitting with a book -in his hand, the Lieutenant attending.” Here, in the course of the -scene, Henry is stabbed by Gloucester, and with the words, “O, God -forgive my sins, and pardon thee!” dies. In _Richard III._ when, in the -first act, we are taken into the “room in the Tower” in which Clarence -is murdered, and see the evil deed performed as, later in the play, we -are again in the Tower at the smothering of the sleeping Princes, we -feel that Shakespeare has in these moving scenes brought before our -eyes the grim reality of two evil deeds done in secret within the -prison-house set up by William the Norman and Henry III. But here, -again, our dramatist is only telling over again the story told in -England’s records, and it is all a tale of unrelieved gloom. That is why -we have come to associate the Tower with murder, torture, and evil -passions. We forget that the sun shone on the Royal Palace, on the -Green, and even sent a beam of its rays into many a dreary cell; that -flowers grew in the constable’s garden and made fragrance there as -sweetly as in the cottage gardens deep down in the quietude of the -shires; that jailors and warders had not invariably hearts of stone; -that prisoners by taking thought and snatching an instant opportunity -had found a way through the walls, then to a boat on the river, and so -to liberty. In describing the shifts and hopes and disappointments that -at last reached their close in so happy a “curtain,” we would wish our -dramatist had been moved to write another _All’s Well That Ends Well_, -with a Tower background. - -When we discover Prince Henry, Poins, and old Sir John at their “deep -drinking” at the Boar’s Head Tavern, we feel we have the Eastcheap of -the early fifteenth century re-created for us, and - -[Illustration: THE BYWARD AND BELL TOWERS, WITH THE KING’S HOUSE ON THE -RIGHT, LOOKING FROM THE TRAITOR’S GATE] - -that is because Shakespeare is allowing his fancy free play and is not -bound down to the repetition of mere historical facts. So would we have -gained had he dealt thus with the Tower and laid a stage-romance there, -as well as the portions of the strictly historical plays we have already -referred to. The history of the Tower, as the history of other places, -will give us names of famous men and the numbering of years in plenty, -but of the inner everyday life of some early century there--nothing. It -is only the skilful in stagecraft and romance that dare touch the Tower -to turn its records to such uses; men of less skill fail, and give us -novels and plays that make weary reading and weary sitting-out. Many a -tale has been penned of the times of the Papist prosecution, for -instance, into which the people of the Tower have been brought, but so -feeble has the grasp of the subject been that we turn to actual history -for the “real romance” and exclaim, with greater conviction than ever, -that fact is more wonderful than fiction. - -It has been said that “the distinctive charm of the historical novel is -that it seems to combine fact and fiction in a way that tickles the -intellectual palate. In conversation we are interested in a story if -some one we know is an actor in it. Historical fiction has a like -piquancy because it mingles men and women known to tradition and history -with fictitious heroes and heroines and minor characters. Then life is -large and important; we learn what it is to be of some service to the -State; we feel the fascination of great causes and great leaders, the -reviving influence of the liberty of wide spaces in time and distance. -There we breathe an ampler ether, a diviner air,” and in spite of Sir -Leslie Stephen, who characterises the historical romance as “pure cram -or else pure fiction,” we prefer to have our history made living for us -by the touch of a Shakespeare or a Scott. - -To come to our own day, I can imagine no more delightful excursion into -the brighter side of Tower romance than the wholly fictitious but -happily conceived Savoy opera, _The Yeomen of the Guard_. Who can look -upon the White Tower here, after seeing its model on the Savoy stage, -and yet not remember the delicious melodies of the opera? The very -spirit of Tower times of long ago, of Tower griefs and joys, of Tower -quips and cranks and lilting songs, seems brought before us in the -theatre when, on the rising of the curtain, we look across Tower Green, -see the gable-end of St. Peter’s Church, and have the huge bulk of the -central keep reaching up toward the blue heaven. And the little comedy -brings the old Tower nearer to our hearts, and, perhaps, to our -understanding. We see it is quite possible for men to love and laugh and -dance even if to-morrow they see a comrade meet death on the very spot -where they had held merriment with the strolling players. It is all very -human, very full of life’s sunshine, though it is felt and known that -behind it all there is suffering bravely borne and deeper sorrow yet to -come. But we applaud the daring of librettist and musician; complete -success has justified all. Here, again, we are safe in master hands. We -have been led down a by-way in Tower history by plot and counter-plot, -with fragrant music for our cheer. When we come again to the actual -Tower of to-day, lying, it may be, under a summer sky, we should like to -find Phœbe sitting on the Green at her spinning-wheel, singing “When -maiden loves,” or see Jack Point teaching the surly jailor and -“assistant tormentor,” Wilfred Shadbolt, to be a jester. - -It is by such paths that boys and maidens should be led to the right -understanding of Tower history. Appeal to their imagination first; give -them a typical day in the old life of the place, and so clothe the mere -skeleton of dates and isolated facts. I often wonder what impression of -the Tower a child brings away after a hurried Christmas holiday visit on -a “free day” when the place is little more than a glorified show. To the -child, the Jewel-room can only appeal as something very like the -shop-window of a Bond Street jeweller, and much less easy, in the -jostling crowd, to get a glimpse of. A benevolent warder will hurry the -family party through the dungeons, and keep up a running commentary of -dates and names of statesmen, traitors, and kings, covering vast spaces -of English history in a single breath. The White Tower will, that night, -re-appear in the child’s dreams as a branch of the Army and Navy Stores, -where they have nicely polished armour on view; where there is a -wonderful collection of swords and bayonets displayed on the walls in -imitation of sunflowers; where policemen will allow you to move in one -direction only, and forbid you to turn back to see anything you may have -omitted or passed too hurriedly; where Queen Elizabeth appears to be -preserved in a glass case and wears remarkably well; and where large -whitewashed vaults, in which are kept cannons sent by the King, suggest -the lower regions of South Kensington Museum and not the -torture-chamber of Guy Fawkes. If that child in the air and sunshine of -the following morning does not take a dislike to the Tower as a rather -gloomy Madame Tassaud’s, and too festive a prison, it will be surprising -indeed. - -The Tower buildings at the present day have been treated in a manner -that destroys all illusion. It is the fault of economy and compromise. -The attempt has been made to convert the old buildings into -dwelling-places with modern comforts, and to accommodate there not only -the families of the warders but also a military garrison. The warders -live in the smaller towers, and these, though full of historic interest, -are closed to the public. For the convenience of the garrison a paternal -War Office has caused to be erected, on the ground where the old -Coldharbour Tower stood, the most unsightly building it is possible to -conceive within Tower walls. But the putting-up of such a monstrosity -convinces one that the greatest want of the present age is imagination. -The men who could plan, and then construct in brick and sandstone these -“quarters,” must have been those who were hurried through the old -fortress in their youth, and who, like the child we have mentioned, -took a not unnatural dislike to His Majesty’s Tower. In no other way can -the blunder be accounted for. - -In spite of the cheapening and vulgarising of the Tower by Governments -and State officials, it retains a surprising hold on the people. Even -the mill-hands of Lancashire, surging up to London to witness a football -“cup-tie,” think their visit to London incomplete until they have walked -through the Tower. But whatever impressions may be on their minds when -they have “done” the building, these impressions are rudely brushed away -in the subsequent excitement at Sydenham. It would be interesting to -hear their reply to the question, “And what did you think of the Tower -of London?” when they returned to their friends and relations in the -North-country. It would certainly give an excellent idea of the result -of years of School Board education, of free-library reading, and a visit -to the actual scene of historic events. The cell where Raleigh wrote is -looked upon with lack-lustre eye by the youth whose one idea of -literature is the football edition of the evening papers. - -The Tower itself is the most precious jewel in the nation’s Crown. It is -the epitome of English history. From the Norman Conquest to the day -that has just dawned we have something here to remind us of our storied -past. It might be the most interesting spot in England to young and to -old alike. In these days of rush and turmoil and ceaseless activities, -it might be the one corner of modern London where the present is quelled -in its noise, and stayed in its hurry, to contemplate the past. These -buildings might well be revered by those who are hardly yet conscious of -their value; they, at least, might be spared the impertinent aggressions -of to-day. A commercial age has committed one unforgivable crime in -pulling down Crosby Hall to erect a bank, and we may well ask ourselves -if the Tower itself is safe from such vandalism. Again, it is want of -imagination. Our city magnates can appreciate a bank, with its hideous -granite pillars and its vapid ornamentations, but an ancient hall which -Shakespeare has touched with his magic pen is of no “practical” use, -mark you! It is a result of the detestable gospel of get-on-or-get-out, -and as our old buildings are incapable of going-on they must go-out. - -Our fear may well be lest the modernising of the Tower, and the erection -within the walls of wholly characterless piles that would be considered -unworthy of place even in a rising suburb, will in time destroy our -sense of the value of any of the buildings bequeathed to us from -earliest times. Little by little the boys of to-day, who will be the -citizens of the day after to-morrow, will come to look at the Tower as a -very ill-painted showroom, or as none too spacious a place to -accommodate a garrison. It must, we may hear them say when they become -men of importance, either be brought up to date as an exhibition of -antiquities, or be rebuilt to meet increasing military requirements. All -this is conceivable; few things are held sacred nowadays, as we know to -our sorrow. - -The spirit of the twentieth century is alien from the spirit still -brooding over the Tower, and which has not been quite dispelled by -latter-day encroachments. Yet, when we find the great dungeon under the -White Tower wired for electric light, we begin to wonder what the end -will be. May we not hope that wiser counsels will prevail and that we -shall have the Tower restored--in the better sense of the term--to -something of its appearance in Elizabethan and Jacobean times? How -refreshing it would be to leave the traffic of Great Tower Street behind -and pass into the tranquillity of Shakespeare’s day, as we entered the -Tower gateway. The modern policeman should no longer repeat the -irritating cry, “Get your tickets! Get your tickets!” at the foot of -Tower Hill; the wretched refreshment shed, which all visitors are -compelled to pass through, should no longer assail us on our entry with -its close atmosphere savouring of stale buns. Even on “free days” this -“ticket” procedure has to be gone through solemnly, and the turnstiles -to be pushed round to satisfy some mystic regulation. It is all very -suggestive of a circus, and reminds us that, as a nation, we are -singularly lacking in the sense of humour. The stage-lighting effects in -connection with the Crown Jewels in the Wakefield Tower certainly charm -the glitter-loving multitude, but this dazzling cageful of royal gold -plate stands, we are apt to forget, in a room where Henry VI. had an -oratory, and where, tradition tells, he was “murdered in cold blood as -he knelt before the altar that stood in the recess of the south-east -corner” of the chamber. Here was committed “one of the most barbarous -murders that even the Tower has recorded in its blood-stained annals,” -as one authority has it; but who to-day has leisure to think of this -when told to “move on,” as one of the crowd surging round the regalia -cage, by yet another policeman who might have just come in from the -duties of regulating motor omnibuses in the Strand? - -I dwell on these points in order to show how hopeless it is to catch any -of the real spirit and message of the Tower when to-day, to-day, to-day, -is ever intruding itself. We ask for leisure to contemplate a far-off -yesterday, and to teach the boys and girls we take to the Tower -something of the value of the Tower buildings as concrete embodiments of -England’s noble history; but we are only permitted to walk hurriedly in -one specified direction, and illusion is destroyed at every point. I -should like, however, to say, lest I may be misunderstood, that from the -Tower officials one receives nothing but courtesy. They are not to -blame. They are performing the duties imposed on them from without. The -pity is that the restless spirit of the age should have found its way -within walls hallowed to memories of England’s kings, and the sufferings -of her greatest and worthiest men. Were that spirit denied all access to -this one spot, lying in the heart of modern London, a visit to the Tower -would mean to young and old alike very much more than it means to-day. -The feeling of reverence, which is so sadly lacking in people of all -ranks of life, might once again be shown by all who entered these solemn -portals. - -It is in the hope that a record of Tower history and romance presented -anew, in the form which this volume takes, may deepen the interest in -and the love for the Tower of London, that this book was written. It -does not attempt within its narrow limits to give a detailed and -exhaustive account of occurrences; that has been admirably done by -others before now. But it does attempt, by the aid of carefully prepared -pictures, to recreate not only what has been bequeathed to us from a -fascinating past, but also the life and colour of the Tower as it stands -to-day, in its less-spoiled aspects. - -A dry repetition of facts and dates may make an accurate history for the -scholar’s shelves, but it would remain unread by all else. Such books -have their place, and a worthy place, but they would not convey to the -mind of one who has never seen the Tower, a really adequate conception -of its past and present. This book may fail to bring the Tower in all -its strange charm to the heart and mind of a lonely reader on the -prairies of Manitoba or in the Australian bush, but the attempt has been -made, and it is not for writer or artist to say whether it has been -achieved or not. - -As I look from my window day by day across Tower Hill at the noble old -buildings lying beyond, and watch them when silhouetted against a -morning sky or lit up by the glow of evening sunshine, I often wonder if -justice can ever be done to them now that we have no Shakespeare and no -Walter Scott. While walking in the garden, wherein is set the stone that -records the last execution in 1747 on that blood-stained spot, one -cannot but contemplate the possibility of even this solemn place being -some day violated by the hands of those who scheme out city -“improvements.” Still, one may hope that England in her heart will -ponder these things, and will save the Tower and Tower Hill from -vandalism; that she will realise more and more as years roll on what a -precious heritage she has here--a heritage that was born at her birth, -has grown with her growth, and may not be destroyed while she breeds -strong sons to guard her treasures. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -HISTORICAL SKETCH - - ’Tis all a Chequer-board of Nights and Days - Where Destiny with Men for Pieces plays: - Hither and thither moves, and mates, and slays, - And one by one back in the Closet lays. - OMAR KHAYYAM. - - -The protoplasm from which the present Tower grew was a rude Celtic fort -on the river slope of Tower Hill. Then came the Romans and built their -London Wall, at the angle of which, commanding the Thames seawards, they -also constructed a fortress. A portion of this _Arx Palatina_ can still -be seen to the east of the White Tower. But no part of this Roman work -remains in the present Tower, though Shakespeare speaks of Julius -Cæsar’s Tower in _Richard II._ - -Tower history, as we know it in any detail, begins with the Conquest. -The Conqueror set Gundulf, a well-travelled monk of the monastery of -Bec, who had seen many beautiful buildings in the course of his -wanderings, to work on the low ground between the hill and the river, -and there, on the camping-ground of the Britons and the Romans, arose -the White Tower, completed about 1078. Gundulf was not only a builder -but an administrator, and the chronicles tell us that, as Bishop of -Rochester, where he rebuilt the Cathedral, he was most earnest in the -discharge of his episcopal duties. - -When we reach the reign of Henry I. we have tidings of our first -prisoner, Ralph Flambard, Bishop of Durham. He was immured for illegally -raising funds for the upkeep of this very fortress, but had no desire to -remain long an inmate within the walls he had been so anxious, -aforetime, to preserve. A rope was conveyed to him in a wine-cask. With -the wine he “fuddled his keepers”; with the rope he proceeded to lower -himself down the outer wall of the White Tower, and, not at all alarmed -at finding the rope too short and his arrival on the ground somewhat -sudden, he was able to mount on horseback, ride to a seaport, and embark -for Normandy. Subsequently he returned to Durham, where he completed the -Cathedral and built Norham Castle, in which Scott lays the opening -scene of _Marmion_. - -The Tower now became a royal palace and remained the dwelling-place of -the Kings of England, or, at times, the stronghold to which they would -retire when danger threatened, until the days of Charles II. At this -early period of its history, too, it was found that a collection of wild -beasts would lend some zest to life within its walls. This royal -menagerie was located on the ground where the ticket-office and -refreshment-rooms now stand, and was removed in 1834. It is said that -the term “going to see the lions” of a place arose from the fashionable -habit of visiting the Tower lions, and the lane off Great Tower Street, -just beyond Allhallows Barking, was at one time not Beer but _Bear_ -Lane, and evidently led down to the pits in which the bears were -expected to provide amusement for Court circles. Stephen kept -Whitsuntide in the Tower in 1140, and in that year the Tower was in the -charge of Geoffrey de Mandeville, who had accompanied the Conqueror to -England, but in 1153 it was held for the Crown by Richard de Lucy, Chief -Justiciary of England, in trust for Henry of Anjou, and to him it -reverted on Stephen’s death. It was a popular superstition at this time -that the red appearance of the mortar used in binding the Tower walls -was caused by the blood of beasts having been mixed with it in the -making; but the ruddy tint was really the result of an admixture of -pulverised Roman bricks with the lime. When Richard I. went off to the -Crusades the Tower was left in the keeping of his Chancellor, Longchamp; -and King John, on usurping the throne, laid siege to the fortress, which -Longchamp surrendered to him. In 1215 the Tower was again besieged, this -time by the barons and the citizens of London, but though the stronghold -had but a poor garrison it held out successfully. In 1216 the rebellious -nobles handed over the custody of the Tower to the Dauphin, Louis, but -he appears to have considered the task too irksome, and “speedily -returned to his own land.” - -One of the greatest names in Tower history is that of Henry III., who -appointed Adam of Lambourne master-mason of the buildings, and began to -build and rebuild, to adorn and to beautify, never satisfied until he -had made the Tower of London a royal dwelling-place indeed. To the -Norman Chapel in the White Tower he gave stained glass and decorated -the - -[Illustration: THE PORTCULLIS IN BLOODY TOWER] - -walls with frescoes; to St. Peter’s, on Tower Green, he gave a set of -bells. He constructed the Wharf, and the massive St. Thomas’s Tower and -Traitor’s Gate were set up by him. But he had his difficulties to -contend with. These additions to the fortification were unpopular with -the citizens without the walls, and when a high tide washed away the -Wharf, and, undermining the foundations of the new tower over Traitor’s -Gate, brought it twice to the ground, the people rejoiced, hoping the -King would own that Fate was against him. But after each disaster his -only comment seems to have been “Build it stronger!” and there is -Henry’s Wharf and St. Thomas’s Tower (recently restored) to this day. -Henry also built the outer wall of the Tower facing the Moat, and in -many other ways made the place a stronghold sure. The wisdom of what had -been done was soon made manifest, for Henry had many a time to take -refuge within Tower walls while rebellious subjects howled on the slopes -of Tower Hill. For their unkind treatment of his wife, Queen Eleanor, -Henry never forgave the people of London, and so defied them from within -what had really become his castle walls. Eleanor was avaricious, proud, -arrogant, and became so unpopular that, when on one occasion she had -left the Wharf by water, for Westminster, she was received, as her barge -came into view of London Bridge, with such execrations and shouts of -“Drown the witch!” or sounds to that effect, that she returned in terror -to the Tower. In 1244 Griffin, son of Llewellyn, was brought as prisoner -to the White Tower and detained as a hostage. He attempted to emulate -the redoubtable Flambard by making a rope of his bedclothes and dropping -from his window, by such means, to the ground. But he had forgotten to -take the weight of his body into his calculations; he was a stout man, -his hastily constructed rope was insecure, it broke as he hung upon the -wall of the Tower, and he was killed by the fall. - -Edward I., when he returned from the Holy Land, made the last additions -of any consequence that were ever made to the Tower buildings. The Moat -was formed in his day and put then into much of its present shape; it -has, of course, been cleaned out and deepened from time to time, though -there was always more mud than water in its basin, and, at one period, -it was considered an offence that lead to instant death for any man to -be discovered bathing therein, probably because he was almost certain -to die from the effects of a dip in such fluid as was to be found there! -Multitudes of Jews were imprisoned in the dungeons under the White Tower -in this reign on the charge of “clipping” the coin of the realm, and the -Welsh and Scottish wars were the cause of many notable warriors, such as -the Earls of Athol, Menteith, and Ross, King Baliol and his son Edward, -and, in 1305, the patriot William Wallace, being given habitation in -Tower dungeons. The noble Wallace, bravest of Scots, was put to death at -Smithfield after some semblance of trial in Westminster Hall. But his -name will never be forgotten, for it is enshrined by Burns in one of the -noblest of Scottish songs. - -Edward II. had no great partiality towards the Tower as a palace, but -often retired there when in danger. In 1322 his eldest daughter was born -here, and, from the place of her birth, was called Joan of the Tower. -She lived to become, by marrying David Bruce, Queen of Scotland in 1327. -We hear of the first woman to be imprisoned in Tower walls about this -time--Lady Badlesmere--for refusing hospitality to Queen Isabella, and -giving orders that the royal party was to be attacked as it approached -her castle of Leeds, in Kent. Lord Mortimer, a Welsh prisoner, -contrived to escape from his dungeon by the old expedient of making his -jailors drunk. He escaped to France, but soon returned, and with -Edward’s Queen, Isabella, was party to Edward’s death at Berkeley -Castle, whither the King had fled from London. The Tower had been left -in the care of Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, but the unfortunate man was -seized by a mob of turbulent citizens, dragged into Cheapside, and there -put to death. Poor Stapledon was a man of exemplary character and a -generous patron of learning. He founded Exeter College, Oxford, and -beautified Exeter Cathedral. - -The rebel Mortimer and Queen Isabella thought it prudent to keep the -young Edward III. within Tower walls in a state of semi-captivity, but -the lad’s spirit was such that he soon succeeded in casting off the -restraint and threw himself on the goodwill of his people. Mortimer was -captured at Nottingham, brought to the Tower, then hanged, drawn, and -quartered at Tyburn Elms--where the Marble Arch now stands. The young -King’s wars in France and Scotland were begun, and after the capture of -Caen, over three hundred of its wealthiest men were brought to the -Tower, together with the Constable of France, the Count d’Eu, and the -Count of Tankerville. It was while making preparations for this French -war that Edward resided in the Tower and came to know its weakness and -its strength. He placed a powerful garrison within its battlements when -he set off for Normandy, but he was not satisfied in his heart with the -state of his royal fortress. Returning secretly from France, and landing -one November night at the Wharf, he found, as he had expected, the place -but ill guarded. The Governor, the Chancellor, and several other -officers were imprisoned for neglect of their duties, and the King set -his house in order. The Scottish King, David Bruce, was captured at -Neville’s Cross in 1346, and Froissart describes how a huge escort of -armed men guarded the captive King--who was mounted on a black -charger--and brought him to the Tower, through narrow City streets -crowded with sightseers, past bodies of City Companies drawn up and clad -in richest robes, in January 1347. At the Tower gate Bruce was given, -with much ceremony, into the custody of Sir John d’Arcy, then Governor. -The imprisoned King remained in the Tower eleven years. King John of -France, and Philip, his son, were brought captives here in 1358 after -Poitiers. Though the Scots King had been liberated and they were so -deprived of his society, yet it appears they had no unpleasant time of -it in their quarters. There were many French nobles within the gates to -make the semblance of a court. Both John and Philip were set free in -1360 by the Treaty of Bretigny. - -Richard II. began his reign amid great rejoicings and feastings, and the -Tower rang with revelries. On the day of his Coronation the King left -his palace-fortress in great state, clad in white robes, and looking, as -one account has it, “as beautiful as an archangel.” London seemed to -have lost its sense of humour--if the sense had been at all developed at -that time--for in Cheapside we are told a castle had been erected “from -two sides of which wine ran forth abundantly, and at the top stood a -golden angel, holding a crown, so contrived that when the King came near -she bowed and presented it to him. In each of the towers was a beautiful -virgin ... and each blew in the King’s face leaves of gold and flowers -of gold counterfeit,” while the populace yelled blessings on their new -monarch, and the conduits ran wine. But scarcely was the wine-stain out -of the streets when the Wat Tyler rebellion broke out, and it seemed -likely that the cobbles would be soon stained red again, but not with -wine. Richard and his mother sought refuge in the Tower while the yells -beyond the walls were no longer those of acclamation but of detestation. -Froissart likens the mob’s cries to the “hooting of devils.” Richard set -out on the Thames to a conference with the leaders of the insurgents at -Rotherhithe, but taking alarm before he had gone far down the river -returned hurriedly to the Tower steps. With him in his place of security -were Treasurer Hales and Archbishop Simon of Sudbury, for whose heads -the mob shouted. Mayor Walworth suggested a sally upon the infuriated -crowds, but this remedy was considered too desperate, and abandoned. The -mob on Tower Hill demanded Sudbury; Sudbury was to be delivered to them; -give them Sudbury. The awful glare of fire shone into the Tower -casements, and the King looked out and saw the houses of many of his -nobles being burnt to the ground. The Savoy was on fire, Westminster -added flames to colour the waters of the Thames, and fire was seen to -rise from the northern heights. Richard was but a boy, and so hard a -trial found him almost unequal to the strain it imposed. What was to be -done? The King being persuaded to meet his rebellious subjects at Mile -End, conceded their demands and granted pardons. There was a garrison of -1200 well-armed men in the Tower, but they were panic-stricken when, on -the departure of the King, the rebel mob, which had stood beyond the -moat, rushed over the drawbridges and into the very heart of the -buildings. Archbishop Sudbury was celebrating Mass when the mob caught -him, dragged him forth from the altar, and despatched him on Tower Hill. -Treasurer Hales was also killed, and both heads were exposed on the -gateway of old London Bridge. Yet, two days later, Tyler’s head was -placed where Sudbury’s had been, and the Archbishop was buried with much -pomp in Canterbury Cathedral. In 1387 Richard again sought refuge in the -Tower. The Duke of Gloucester and other nobles had become exasperated at -the weak King’s ways, and a commission appointed by Gloucester proceeded -to govern the Kingdom; Richard’s army offering opposition was defeated. -Subsequently, a conference was held in the Council Chamber of the White -Tower, and Richard, on some kind of agreement being reached, left the -Tower for Westminster. The King’s greatest friend, Sir Simon Burley, -was led to death on Tower Hill and his execution Richard swore to -avenge. His opportunity came. Three years later another State procession -left the Tower, with the King, as before, the chief personage in the -midst of the brave show. Richard had married Isabel, daughter of Charles -VI. of France. She had been dwelling in the Tower until the day of her -coronation. In the midst of the festivities that celebrated the joyous -event Gloucester was seized by the King’s orders, shipped off to Calais, -and murdered; the Earl of Arundel was beheaded on Tower Hill. Warwick -the King dared not kill, as he had done so much for his country in the -wars with France, but after confinement in the Beauchamp Tower, he was -sent to the Isle of Man, and there kept in prison for life. But Richard, -in planning the fall of these men, brought destruction upon himself. He -lost all self-control, and Mr. Gardiner believes that “it is most -probable, without being actually insane, his mind had to some extent -given way.” Parliament was dissolved--the King would rule without one; -he would assume the powers of an autocrat. Events moved swiftly. John of -Gaunt’s son, Henry of Lancaster, landed in England in 1399; Richard was -taken prisoner, and, on September 2 of that year, was brought to the -Tower, a prisoner. In the White Tower--Shakespeare, however, lays the -scene in Westminster Hall--he resigned his crown, and, shadowy king that -he always was, vanished into the dark shadow that shrouds his end. - -Henry IV. began his reign with a revival of Tower festivities. On the -eve of his coronation, after much feasting and rejoicing, a solemn -ceremonial took place in the Norman chapel of St. John, where forty-six -new knights of the Order of the Bath watched their arms all night. With -Henry’s reign begins, also, the list of State prisoners in the Tower, -which was becoming less of a palace and more of a prison. The first -captives were Welshmen--Llewellyn, a relation of Owen Glendower, being -brought here in 1402. In the following year the Abbot of Winchelsea and -other ecclesiastics were committed for inciting to rebellion, but -Henry’s most notable prisoner was Prince James of Scotland. This lad of -eleven was heir of Robert III., after the death of Rothesay, whose sad -end is described in _The Fair Maid of Perth_. King Robert died, it is -said, of a broken heart when he heard of his son’s captivity, and James -became _de facto_ King of Scotland while unjustly immured in Henry’s -prison-house. He remained a prisoner for eighteen years, two of which -were spent in the Tower; from there he was removed to Nottingham Castle, -and his uncle, the Duke of Albany, acted as Regent of the northern -kingdom. It is interesting to learn, from some English and Scottish -records, that his expenses in the Tower were 6s. 8d. a day for himself -and 3s. 4d. for his attendants. - -Henry V., on becoming King in 1413, was, according to the _Chronicles of -London_, “brought to the Tower upon the Fryday, and on the morowe he -rood through Chepe with a grete rought of lordes and knyghtes, the -whiche he hadde newe made in the Tower on the night before.” About this -time the Tower was full of persecuted followers of Wycliffe, the most -famous being Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham. He had been a trusted -servant of Henry IV.; to him was allotted the task of quelling -insurrection in Wales at the time of the battle of Shrewsbury, and he -then stood in high favour with the King and his son, now Henry V. A -severe law had been passed with regard to those who held the principles -of Wycliffe, and at the time of Henry V.’s accession, Oldcastle was -found to favour the condemned Lollard doctrines. Not long afterwards, -by virtue (to quote J. R. Green), of “the first legal enactment of -religious bloodshed which defiled our Statute Book,” Sir John was a -captive in the Tower, and the King, forgetting old friendship, allowed -matters to take their course. But Oldcastle, who evidently had friends -and unknown adherents within the Tower walls, mysteriously escaped, and -the Lollards, encouraged, brought their rising to a head. It was said -that they had plotted to kill the King and make Oldcastle Regent of the -kingdom; but their insurrection was quelled, the more prominent Lollards -were either burnt or hanged, and Sir John, after wanderings in Wales, -was caught, brought back to the Tower, and in December 1417, some say on -Christmas Day, was hung in chains and burnt “over a slow fire” in -Smithfield. He is the original of Shakespeare’s Falstaff, but had very -little in common with that creation of the dramatist’s fancy. -Shakespeare admits this in an epilogue where he says, “For Oldcastle -died a martyr and this is not the man.” In Tennyson’s poem, _Sir John -Oldcastle_, this brave old man exclaims, “God willing, I will burn for -Him,” and, truly, he suffered a terrible death for his convictions. -After Agincourt we have another notable prisoner in the Tower in the -person of Charles, Duke of Orleans, who was sent to the White Tower -“with a ransom of 300,000 crowns on his head.” This captive, as did -James of Scotland before him, passed many of the weary hours of -captivity writing poetry. In the British Museum there is preserved a -manuscript volume of his poems which is invaluable as containing the -oldest picture of the Tower which is known to exist. This picture, -beautifully coloured, shows the great keep of William the Conqueror -whitewashed--hence its present name--and, in the background, the steep -grassy slope of Tower Hill, old London Bridge, and the spires and towers -of ancient London. It is a remarkable work of art, and is accessible to -all in its many reproductions. Charles was liberated in 1440, in the -reign of Henry VI. - -The early days of the sixth Henry were not marked in Tower annals by -events of great interest, and during the later Wars of the Roses the -number of captives sent here was small, for most of them were murdered -in cold blood, on the battlefields. Little quarter was given after those -fights-to-the-death, and during the weary years of warfare the peerage, -as one writer has it, “was almost annihilated.” The Cade rebellion broke -out in 1450, in which year William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, who had -been charged with supporting it, was murdered. He was one of the most -distinguished noblemen in England, yet the tragedy that ended his life -was a sordid one. Upon a wholly unsubstantiated charge of treason he was -shut up in the Tower; as he could not be proven guilty, he was released -and banished the country. He took ship at Dover to cross to Calais, but -was captured in the Channel by the captain of a vessel named _Nicholas -of the Tower_. This was a name of ill-omen to Suffolk, to whom it had -been told, in prophecy, that could he avoid the “danger of the Tower” he -should be safe. As captive he was brought back to Dover, and his last -moments are described in _King Henry VI._, Part II., Act iv., Scene 1, -with realism. - -In the summer of 1450 Lord Say was sent to the Tower by the King “to -propitiate the rebels,” and they had him forth and beheaded him in -Cheapside. Cade and his followers were attacking the fortress from -Southwark, but at nightfall a sortie was made from the Tower, London -Bridge was barricaded, and, a truce being called, the rebellion -gradually subsided. Cade’s capture in a garden in Kent is told by -Shakespeare in the tenth scene of the fourth act of the play just -mentioned. - -Towton Heath was fought and lost by the Lancastrians; the Battle of -Hexham crushed the remnant of the King’s army; the valiant Queen -Margaret fled, taking her young son with her; and, very soon afterwards, -poor Henry himself was led captive, and placed in the Wakefield Tower -where, in the room in which the regalia is shown at the present day, he -was murdered, we are told, by Richard of Gloucester or, more probably, -by his orders, on May 21, 1471. But before his death, Warwick--that -king-maker slain at Barnet in 1471--had given orders for Henry to be led -on horseback through the city streets “while a turncoat populace shouted -‘God save King Harry!’” This was a poor and short-lived triumph. The -weary-hearted King, “clad in a blue gown,” soon returned to the walls he -was fated never again to leave alive. The city was flourishing under -Yorkist rule and was not minded to seek Lancastrian restoration. It was -the pull of prosperity against sentiment; the former won, as it usually -contrives to do, and along with sentiment down went King Henry. Queen -Margaret had meanwhile been brought to the Tower. Though she and her -husband were both within Tower gates they did not meet again. The Queen -was imprisoned for five years--for part of that time at Windsor--and -then was allowed to return to her own country. We meet her once again in -Scott’s _Anne of Geierstein_. - -Cannon, that had, as has been said, come into use for the first time at -Crecy, were during Henry’s reign used by the Yorkists to “batter down” -the walls of the Tower, but unsuccessfully. In 1843, when the moat was -dried and cleared out, a large number of stone cannon-balls were -discovered, and in all probability were those used at this bombardment. - -Edward IV. had given the customary feast at the Tower on the -coronation-eve and “made” thirty-two knights within its walls. These -Knights of the Bath, “arrayed in blue gowns, with hoods and tokens of -white silk upon their shoulders” rode before the new King on his -progress from the Tower to Westminster Abbey on his coronation day. The -King began his reign by sending Lancastrians to the Tower and beheading -two, Sir Thomas Tudenham and Sir William Tyrrell, on Tower Hill. The -Tower had come upon its darkest days. Though Edward favoured the -fortress a good deal as a place of residence, rebuilt its fortifications -and deepened its moat, he also used it - -[Illustration: PORTION OF THE ARMOURY, WHITE TOWER] - -as a convenient place for ridding himself of all he wished to put out of -his way. Victim after victim suffered cruel death within its walls. His -brother Clarence mysteriously disappeared--tradition has maintained he -was drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine, but that has never been proved in -any way. However, the secrecy as to the manner of his death makes it -none the less tragic to the imagination; how his last moments were -passed the stones of the Bowyer Tower alone could tell us. - -Young Edward V. was brought to the Tower by the Dukes of Gloucester and -Buckingham, professing great loyalty and arranging that his coronation -should take place on the 22nd of June following. But Richard of -Gloucester was determined that if craft and strategy could accomplish -his ends the next coronation would be his own. Lord Hastings, over loyal -to the boy King was brought to the axe on Tower Green, and an attempt -was made by the scheming Richard, who was now Protector, to prove that -Edward was no true heir to the Crown. It was with a fine show of -unwillingness that he accepted the call to kingship, but in July, 1483, -he was crowned at Westminster. Edward, and his ten-year-old brother, -Richard, disappeared. We shall return to a consideration of their fate -when examining the Bloody Tower. - -Richard III., following the custom, gave sumptuous entertainments in the -Tower to celebrate his first days as King, and the usual elaborate -procession issued forth on the coronation day from the Tower gate, -climbed the hill, and wended its way through the tortuous London streets -to the city of Westminster, beyond. Richard seems to have spent much of -his time, when in his capital, within his fortress-palace, and to have -taken interest in at least one building near by. The Church of -Allhallows Barking, on Tower Hill, as we shall see in Chapter VI., owes -much to Richard, who appears to have considered Tower Walls thick enough -to hide his evil deeds and keep out his good ones. - -During this reign, as we find in the _Wyatt Papers_, a State prisoner, -Sir Henry Wyatt, was thrown into a Tower dungeon for favouring Tudor -claims and supporting Henry of Richmond. Richard, it is said, had him -tortured, but the brave soldier refused to forsake his “poor and unhappy -master” (afterwards Henry VII.) and so “the King, in a rage, had him -confined in a low and narrow cell where he had not clothes sufficient -to warm him and was an-hungered.” The legend proceeds: “He had starved -then, had not God, who sent a crow to feed His prophet, sent this and -his country’s martyr a cat both to feed and warm him. It was his own -relation from whom I had the story. A cat came one day down into the -dungeon, and, as it were, offered herself unto him. He was glad of her, -laid her on his bosom to warm him, and, by making much of her, won her -love. After this she would come every day unto him divers times, and, -when she could get one, brought him a pigeon. He complained to his -keeper of his cold and short fare. The answer was ‘He durst not better -it.’ ‘But,’ said Sir Henry, ‘if I can provide any, will you promise to -dress it for me?’ ‘I may well enough,’ said the keeper, ‘you are safe -for that matter,’ and being urged again, promised him and kept his -promise.” The jailor dressed each time the pigeon the cat provided, and -the prisoner was no longer an-hungered. Sir Henry Wyatt in his days of -prosperity, when Henry VII. had come to the throne and made his faithful -follower a Privy Councillor, “did ever make much of cats” and, the old -writer goes on, “perhaps you will not find his picture anywhere but with -a cat beside him.” Wyatt afterwards became rich enough, under kingly -favour, to purchase Allington Castle, one of the finest places of its -kind in Kent. There are other Tower stories of men, saddened in their -captivity, being helped in various ways by dumb animals. Many of them, -we may hope, are true. - -Our necessarily rapid journey through history has brought us to the -illustrious Tudor Kings and Queens. The Tower was never more prominent -in England’s records than during Tudor reign, from seventh Henry to the -last days of great Elizabeth. The early years of the new King were to be -remembered by an imprisonment in Tower walls that had little sense of -justice as excuse. When the Duke of Clarence was put to death in Edward -IV.’s reign, he left behind him his eldest son, then only three years -old, whom Richard, after his own son’s death, had a mind to nominate as -his heir. This was Edward, Earl of Warwick, who came to be shut up -simply because he was a representative of the fallen house of York and -had a better right to claim the Crown than Henry Tudor. That was his -only offence, but it was sufficient; he lingered in confinement while -Lambert Simnel was impersonating him in Ireland in 1487; he was led -forth from his cell to parade city streets, for a day of what must have -tasted almost like happy freedom, in order that he might be seen of the -people; and once again was he brought back to his place of confinement. -Henry’s position was again in danger, when, in 1492, Perkin Warbeck, a -young Fleming, landed in Ireland and proclaimed himself to be Richard -Plantagenet, Duke of York, son of Edward IV. His tale was that when his -“brother” Edward was murdered in the Tower, he had escaped. He was even -greeted, some time afterwards, by the Duchess of Burgundy, Edward IV.’s -sister, as her nephew, and called the “White Rose of England.” With -assistance from France and Scotland, Warbeck landed in England, and -after many vicissitudes was captured, and put in the Tower, from whence -he planned to escape and involved Edward of Warwick in the plot. This -gave Henry his opportunity. Warbeck was hanged at Tyburn, and poor -Warwick ended his long captivity at the block on Tower Hill. So was -played another act of Tower tragedy. Sir William Stanley, concerned in -the Warbeck rising, was also brought to the Tower, tried in the Council -Chamber, condemned, and beheaded on Tower Hill on February 16, 1495. -Still the plottings against the unpopular Henry went on, and the -headsman had ample work to do. To Tower Hill came Sir James Tyrrell, who -had taken part in the murder of the Princes, and Sir John Wyndham--both -brought there for the aid they had given to the plottings of Edmund de -la Pole, Earl of Suffolk. - -But now comes a break in the tales of bloodshed, and the Tower awoke -once more to the sounds of feasting and rejoicing. In celebration of the -marriage of Prince Arthur and Katherine of Aragon in St. Paul’s -Cathedral, great tournaments and banquetings took place within the Tower -and in its immediate vicinity. Tower Hill was gay with the coming and -going of festive crowds; the Tower walls echoed what they seldom -heard--the sounds of piping and dancing. Records tell us, too, of -elaborate pageants which strove to show the descent of the bridegroom -from Arthur of the Round Table. This method of impressing the moving -scenes of history on the spectator is not unknown to us in the present -day. Hardly had five months passed away, however, when the Prince, who -was but a lad of fifteen, lay dead, and his mother, Elizabeth of York, -who had given birth to a daughter in the Tower in 1503, died nine days -after Prince Arthur. When six more years had passed, the King, whose -reign had been so troubled, was laid by the side of his wife, in “the -glorious shrine in Westminster Abbey which bears his name.” - -Henry VIII. was now on the throne, at the age of eighteen, and once -again the Tower looms largely in the view, and approaches the height of -its notoriety as State prison and antechamber to the place of death. -But, as in former times, the record is not one of unrelieved gloom. The -two sides of the picture are admirably exemplified at the beginning of -Henry’s reign, for, shortly after he had imprisoned his father’s -“extortioners,” Empson and Dudley, and subsequently caused them to be -beheaded on Tower Hill, he made great show and ceremony during the Court -held at the Tower before the first of his many weddings. Twenty-four -Knights of the Bath were created, and, with all the ancient pomp and -splendour--for Henry had a keen eye for the picturesque--the usual -procession from Tower to Westminster duly impressed, by its glitter, a -populace ever ready to acclaim a coronation, in the too-human hope that -the new will prove better than the old. - -The young King appointed Commissioners to make additions and -improvements within the Tower. The roomy Lieutenant’s House was built, -and had access to the adjoining towers; additional warders’ houses were -erected and alterations were made within the Bell and St. Thomas’s -Towers. About this time the White Tower received attention, and from the -State Papers of the period we learn that it was “embattled, coped, -indented, and cressed with Caen stone to the extent of five hundred -feet.” It is almost as though Henry were anxious that his royal prison -should be prepared to receive the many new occupants of its rooms and -dungeons that he was about to send there, for no sooner were these -renovations completed than the chronicle of bloodshed begins afresh. - -The Earl of Suffolk, already spoken of in connection with a plot in the -preceding reign, came to the axe in 1513; a few years passed and the -Tower was filled with men apprehended in City riots, in an attempt to -subdue which the Tower guns were actually “fired upon the city”; Edward, -Duke of Buckingham, at one time a favourite of Henry’s, was traduced by -Wolsey, who represented, out of revenge, that the Duke laid some claim -to the Crown, and he was beheaded on Tower Green on May 17, 1521. In -Brewer’s Introduction to the _State Papers of Henry VIII._, we read, -with reference to this trial and death of - -[Illustration: PANORAMA OF THE TOWER AND GREENWICH IN 1543. By Anthony -van den Wyngaerde. - -102. Houndsditch. -103. Crutched Friars. -104. Priory of Holy Trinity. -105. Aldgate. -106. St. Botolph, Aldgate. -107. The Minories. -108. The Postern Gate. -109. Great Tower Hill. -110. Place of Execution. -111. Allhallow’s Church, Barking. -112. The Custom House. -113. Tower of London. -114. The White Tower. -115. Traitor’s Gate. -116. Little Tower Hill. -117. East Smithfield. -118. Stepney. -119. St. Catherine’s Church. -120. St. Catherine’s Dock. -121. St. Catherine’s Hospital. -122. Isle of Dogs. -123. Monastery of Bermondsey. -124. Says Court, Deptford. -125. Palace of Placentia. -] - -Buckingham, that the Duke of Norfolk, not without tears, delivered -sentence thus: “You are to be led back to prison, laid on a hurdle, and -so drawn to the place of execution; you are there to be hanged, cut down -alive, your members cut off and cast into the fire, your bowels burnt -before your eyes, your head smitten off, your body quartered and divided -at the King’s will.” Buckingham heard this terrible form of punishment -with calmness, and said that so should traitors be spoken unto, but that -he was never one. After the trial, which had lasted nearly a week, the -Duke was conveyed on the river from Westminster to the Temple steps and -brought through Eastcheap to the Tower. Buckingham’s last words as he -mounted the scaffold on the Green were that he died a true man to the -King, “whom, through my own negligence and lack of grace I have -offended.” In a few moments his head was off, the block was covered with -his blood, and some good friars took up his body, covered it with a -cloak, and carried it to the Church of Austin Friars, where it was -buried with all solemnity. So fell the once mighty Buckingham, and in -his last moments, and after his death, he was not forgotten by “poor -religious men, to whom, in his lifetime, he had been kind.” - -Again the curtain falls on tragedy and rises on comedy. Twelve years -later Tower Green was given over to revelry; and laughter, singing, and -mumming were revived under the walls of the White Tower. A writer of the -time speaks of the “marvellous cunning pageants,” and the “fountains -running with wine” as Henry brought hither his new Queen, Anne Boleyn, -for whom, on her entry “there was such a pele of gonnes as hath not byn -herde lyke a great while before.” Once more, also, there was made -procession, in state, but with scant applause of the people this time, -from Tower Hill to Westminster. Soon the shadows return, and the -“gonnes” and the music cease. Three short years pass and Anne Boleyn -comes back to the Tower in sadness and in silence. On the spot where -Buckingham suffered, her head, on May 19, 1536, was severed from her -body. Three days afterwards Henry had married Jane Seymour. - -During the short life of Anne Boleyn as Queen, Bishop Fisher and Sir -Thomas More had come to the scaffold. Their imprisonment and death are -dealt with in the next chapter. The “Pilgrimage of Grace,” a religious -rising in the North, mostly within the borders of Yorkshire, to protest -against the spoliation of the monasteries and the threatened attack on -the parish churches, caused many a leader to be confined within the -Tower. Its dungeons were filled with prisoners. - -The magnificent Abbeys of Rievaulx, Fountains, and Jervaulx, in the -Yorkshire dales, were pulled down, and to this day their noble ruins cry -shame upon the despoilers. To the Tower came the Abbots of Jervaulx and -Fountains, with the Prior of Bridlington, and they were hanged, -eventually, at Tyburn Tree. Other prisoners were Lords Hussey and -Darcey; the first was beheaded in Lincoln, the other on Tower Hill. With -them were brought Sir Robert Constable, Sir John and Lady Bulmer, Sir -Thomas Percy, Sir Francis Bigod, Sir Stephen Hamilton, Robert Aske, -William, son of Lord Lumley, and many a one of Yorkshire birth whose -names have not come down to us. All were put to death, without mercy, in -1537. - -Two years after the suppression of this rising in the North a -smouldering Yorkist insurrection in the West was stamped out by the -usual method of securing the leaders, in this case Henry Courtenay, -Marquis of Exeter, Sir Edward Nevill and Sir Nicholas Carew, and taking -off their heads on Tower Hill. Others were seized about this time, -accused of being implicated in certain traitorous correspondence, and -were also brought to the Tower. Amongst them were Lord Montague and Sir -Geoffrey Pole, with their mother the Countess of Salisbury, Sir Adrian -Fortescue, Sir Thomas Dingley, and the Marchioness of Exeter. As regards -the aged Countess of Salisbury, in a contemporary document it is said -that “she maketh great moan, for that she wanteth necessary apparel, -both for change and also to keep her warm.” In a history dealing with -the period, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, we have a description of the -Countess’s last moments, which were tragic enough even for Tower -records. On May 28, 1541, “the old lady was brought to the scaffold, set -up in the Tower [on Tower Green], and was commanded to lay her head on -the block; but she, as a person of great quality assured me, refused, -saying, ‘I am no traitor’; neither would it serve that the executioner -told her it was the fashion, so turning her grey head every way, she bid -him, if he would have her head, to get it off as he could; so that he -was constrained to fetch it off slovenly.” However, Froude discredits -this story, and it certainly seems to be almost too fantastic to be -true. Still, the fact remains that the Countess was subjected to -unnecessarily harsh treatment while in the Tower, for the reason, it is -said, that the King hoped she might die under the privations and so save -him bringing her to the block. To Thomas Cromwell, the instigator of the -terrible punishments that were meted out to those concerned in the -risings, fate had already brought retribution. In 1540 he had been -created Earl of Essex; a few months afterwards his fall came; on a day -of July in that year he, too, came to the Tower and suffered the death, -on Tower Green, that he had prescribed for others. The Tower was -becoming like some mighty monster whose craving for human blood was hard -to satisfy. Accuser and accused, yeoman and earl, youth and age, -innocence and guilt, seemed to come alike into its greedy maw. Cromwell -was taken from the House of Lords to the Tower, and the angry King would -listen to no word in his favour. Whatever his crimes as -tyrant-councillor to Henry, two things may be reckoned to his credit, -for no man is altogether bad. The Bible was printed in English, in 1538, -at his wish, and he initiated a system of keeping parish registers. At -the time of Cromwell’s death the Tower was inconveniently full of -“Protestant heretics,” three of whom were got rid of by the simple -expedient of burning them in Smithfield, while an equal number of -Catholics, who were prepared to deny the King’s supremacy in matters -ecclesiastical, went with them. - -The King had not been too busy with ridding himself of enemies, or -supposed enemies, to neglect other things. He had married and divorced -Anne of Cleves, and had taken Katherine Howard to be his Queen. But her -fate was not long delayed, and another royal head was brought to the axe -on Tower Green. Before her death she had asked that the block might be -brought to her cell in order that she might learn how to lay her head -upon it, and this strange request was granted. Lady Rochford, the -Queen’s companion, was executed on the Green after her mistress had -suffered. An eye-witness of the executions has left it on record that -both victims made “the moost godly and chrystian end that ever was heard -tell of, I thynke sins the world’s creation.” Katherine Howard was only -twenty-two years old when the Tower claimed her life. Many of her -relatives were imprisoned at the same time, among them being her -grandmother, the Duchess of Norfolk, the Countess of Bridgewater, Lord -and Lady William Howard, and Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. It is rather -startling to find that a prisoner in the Tower could “die for joy” upon -hearing that the charge brought against him was not proven. This -singular death released the troubled soul of Viscount Lisle from the -walls of his dungeon and from the trials of this mortal life, in the -year that Queen Katherine was brought to the Green. - -From execution we turn to torture. Anne Askew, “an ardent believer in -the Reformed faith,” was cast into the Tower for denying the doctrine of -Transubstantiation. In an account of her sufferings by Lord de Ros we -are told that “the unhappy lady was carried to a dungeon and laid on the -rack in the presence of the Lieutenant of the Tower and Chancellor -Wriothesley. But when she endured the torture without opening her lips -in reply to the Chancellor’s questions, he became furious, and seizing -the wheel himself, strained it with all his force till Knyvett [the -Lieutenant], revolting at such cruelty, insisted on her release from the -dreadful machine. It was but just in time to save her life, for she had -twice swooned, and her limbs had been so stretched and her joints so -injured, that she was never again able to walk.... She was shortly -afterwards carried to Smithfield and there burnt to ashes, together with -three other persons, for the same cause, in the presence of the Duke of -Norfolk, the Earl of Bedford, Sir Thomas Wriothesley, the Lord Mayor, -and a vast concourse of people.” Religious bigotry, alas, is still with -us, but men have saner notions to-day as to the value of mere religious -opinions, and poor Anne had the misfortune to live in a ruder age than -ours. But her sufferings are not forgotten; religious tyranny has lost -the power to send to the rack and the stake, and to her, and all who -suffered, be due honour given. - -Once more the curtain falls on tragedy, and on its rise we see the Tower -decked out for revelry. In 1546 a “great banquet” was given in honour of -the peace between France and England, and the French High Admiral, the -Bishop of Evreux, and others came on embassy to England, and were -welcomed, amid much rejoicing, to the feast. For a space the Tower -remembered there was laughter in life as well as tears. However, it -rejoiced with difficulty, and very soon had returned to gloomy dignity -and sadness. On paltry evidence the Duke of Norfolk, who had led to -victory at - -[Illustration: THE COUNCIL CHAMBER IN THE KING’S HOUSE WHERE GUY FAWKES -AND FATHER GERARD WERE TRIED] - -Flodden Field, and was now seventy-four years of age, was, with the Earl -of Surrey, imprisoned in the Tower. Surrey, tried by jury in January -1547, on the 19th of the month was led out of the Tower gate to -execution on Tower Hill. Thus was sent to death England’s first writer -of blank verse and one of her most excellent poets. “Surrey’s instinct -for prosody was phenomenal,” says Mr. Edmund Gosse, and “he at once -transplanted blank verse from a soil in which it could never flourish -[it had recently been invented in Italy], to one in which it would take -root and spread in full luxuriance.” Yet the sweet singer who lit the -torch that was handed on to Shakespeare was brought to the block with -the tyrant and the malefactor. Norfolk would have shared a like fate, -had not the King himself died a few hours before the time appointed for -the Duke’s removal to Tower Hill. He was set free when Mary came to -reign, and died in his own home in 1554 at the good old age of -eighty-one. - -Young Edward VI. was brought up to the Tower with great ceremony, and -began his reign when but a boy of ten. In the Tower he was made a -knight, and rejoicings in anticipation of his coronation made the old -walls ring again to gladness. The State procession from the Tower to -the Abbey was conceived and carried through in a spirit of regal -magnificence, and from Eastcheap to Westminster the streets were -bedecked in a manner expressive of the joy of the people that Henry’s -reign of terror had ended. The boy King had not long been on the throne, -when, under the guidance of Protector Somerset, in whose hands was all -the power of an actual ruler, bloodshed began afresh. Thomas, Lord -Seymour, brother of Somerset and uncle of the King, was immured in the -Tower, and, accused of ambitious practices, beheaded on Tower Hill on -March 20, 1549. This act brought down the rage of the populace upon -Somerset, who was already unpopular by reason of his seizure of Church -property. By his ill-gotten gains he had built the magnificent Somerset -House, and in order to clear the ground for it he had demolished a -church and scattered the human remains found there--an act of -desecration that the citizens regarded as a crime. The Earl of Warwick -headed the opposition, seized the Tower, and the Protector was lodged in -the Beauchamp Tower. Later, however, he was pardoned, and the young King -records in his diary that “My Lorde Somerset was delivered of his bondes -and came to Court.” But the feud soon came to a head again, and in 1551 -Somerset was shut up in the Tower once more, and his wife with him, on a -charge of high treason. He was taken, by water, to his trial at -Westminster Hall, where he was “acquitted of high treason,” but -condemned “of treason feloniouse and adjudged to be hanged.” The King, -who appears to have written a full account of events in his diary, notes -that “he departed without the axe of the Tower. The people knowing not -the matter shrieked half-a-dozen times so loude that from the halle dore -it was heard at Charing Crosse plainely, and rumours went that he was -quitte of all.” But, far from being “quitte of all” he was conveyed back -to the Tower, and while some maintained that he was to be set at -liberty, others with equal heat asserted that he was to die speedily. -The dispute was set at rest by his execution on Tower Hill, “at eight of -ye clok in the morning.” The boy Edward seems to have had some of the -callousness of his father in his nature, for he signed the death -warrants of both his uncles with calmness, and in his commentary on -their executions he betrays no emotion whatever, taking it all as very -commonplace happening. “The Duke of Somerset had his head cut off upon -Touer Hill” is the entry in the royal manuscript book. At the time of -the Protector’s committal to the Tower there came with him, as -prisoners, his supporters the Earl of Arundel, Lords Grey and Paget; -also Sir Thomas Arundel, Sir Ralph Vane, Sir Miles Partridge and Sir -Michael Stanhope--these latter being executed. Edward’s short reign of -six years had seen as many noble lives sacrificed as any six years of -his father’s reign had seen, and with the Queen who succeeded him the -tale of bloodshed was not less full of sudden tragedy. - -Mary Tudor was preceded by the nine-days’ “Queen,” Lady Jane Grey, who -had been named his successor by the dying Edward, at the instigation of -the Duke of Northumberland. Lady Jane had been wedded to -Northumberland’s fourth son, Lord Guildford Dudley; she was only sixteen -years old; she began and ended her “reign” in the Tower, to which she -was conveyed by her father-in-law, who was keeping Edward’s death secret -until his plans were complete. But Mary had been proclaimed without the -Tower if Lady Jane had been proclaimed within. The weaker was pitted -against the stronger, and Northumberland, whom we hear of at Cambridge -trying to go over to the side of the stronger by shouting “God save -Queen Mary!” in the public highway, was arrested in spite of his proper -sentiments and was brought prisoner to London and lodged within the -Tower, where only a few weeks before he had been in command. He suffered -on August 22. In the September sunshine Lady Jane was allowed to walk in -the garden attached to the Lieutenant’s house, “and on the hill,” and to -look out upon the river and the roofs of the city from the walk behind -the battlements which connects the Beauchamp and Bell Towers. In the -Beauchamp her husband was held in bondage, and there he carved the word -“Jane” on the wall, where it is to be seen to this day. In October Mary -was crowned, and in November a sad procession wended its way up Tower -Hill, through Tower Street and Eastcheap, to the Guildhall. At the head -walked the Chief Warder, carrying the axe; following, came Archbishop -Cranmer, Lord Guildford Dudley, and Lady Jane Grey. At their trial they -pleaded guilty to high treason, were sentenced, and returned to the -Tower, the Warder’s axe showing, by the direction in which the blade -pointed, what their doom was to be. To her father Lady Jane wrote, from -her prison-house: “My deare father, if I may, without offence, rejoyce -in my own mishaps, herein I may account myselfe blessed that washing my -hands with the innocence of my fact, my guiltless bloud may cry before -the Lord, Mercy to the innocent!... I have opened unto you the state -wherein I presently stand, my death at hand, although to you perhaps it -may seem wofull yet to me there is nothing that can bee more welcome -than from this vale of misery to aspire, and that having thrown off all -joy and pleasure, with Christ my Saviour, in whose steadfast faith (if -it may be lawfull for the daughter so to write to her father) the Lord -that hath hitherto strengthened you, soe continue to keepe you, that at -the last we may meete in heaven with the Father, Sonne, and Holy -Ghost.--I am, your most obedient daughter till death, JANE DUDLEY.” It -is possible that Queen Mary might have spared the life of this sweet and -gentle maid, happier in her books and her devotions than in the -intrigues of State, but a rising of the men of Kent, under Wyatt, who -demanded the “custody of the Tower and the Queen within it,” brought -matters to a crisis. Wyatt appeared on the Southwark bank of the Thames -and was fired upon from Tower walls. This is the last time in its annals -that the fortress was attacked, and that it was called upon to repel an -enemy. Wyatt, captured at Temple Bar after a night march from Kingston, -where he had crossed the river, was soon in the Tower, and with him was -led many a noble prisoner. All hope that Lady Jane would be spared had -now gone. Her father was seized and brought to the Tower on February 10; -her husband was seen by her on his way to death on Tower Hill on the -morning of the 12th, and she looked out again upon his headless body, as -it was brought back on a litter, very soon afterwards, and taken to the -chapel. A contemporary chronicle describes the preparations made for her -own death on that day: “There was a Scaffolde made upon the grene over -against the White Tower for the saide Lady Jane to die upon.” She was -led forth from her prison to the Green by Sir John Bridges, then -Lieutenant, and mounted the scaffold with firm step. The hangman offered -to help her to take off her gown. “She desyred him to let her alone, -turning towards her two gentlewomen who helped her off therewith ... -giving to her a fayre handkerchief to knytte about her eyes.... Then she -sayd, ‘I pray you despatch me quickly.’ She tied the kercher about her -eyes, then feeling for the block, saide, ‘What shal I do, where is it?’ -One of the standers by guyding her thereunto, she layde her head downe -upon the block, and stretched forth her body, and said, ‘Lord, into Thy -hands I commend my spirit,’ and so she ended.” Fuller has said of this -noble girl, “She had the birth of a Princess, the life of a saint, yet -the death of a malefactor, for her parent’s offences, and she was longer -a captive than a Queen in the Tower.” Her father and Wyatt, before many -days had passed, were both beheaded on Tower Hill; many luckless ones -who had taken part in the Kentish rising were put to death with every -form of cruelty; and, shortly after these terrible days of bloodshed in -London, Mary was married to Philip of Spain at Winchester. - -Princess Elizabeth had, meanwhile, been brought to the Tower in custody, -and was landed, on Palm Sunday, at Traitor’s Gate. She was closely -guarded but was allowed to walk on the open passage-way, where Lady Jane -Grey had paced up and down before her, which is now known as “Queen -Elizabeth’s Walk.” Towards the middle of May, being set free of the -Tower, she is said to have taken a meal in the London Tavern--at the -corner of Mark Lane and Fenchurch Street--on her way to Woodstock. The -pewter meat-dish and cover which she used are still preserved. The city -churches rang joyous peals when it was known she was out of Tower -walls, and to those churches that gave her welcome she presented silken -bell-ropes when Queen of England. - -Queen Mary’s days were darkened again by busy work for the headsman, and -by religious persecution. Thomas, second son of Lord Stafford, defeated -in an attempt to capture Scarborough Castle, was brought to the block on -Tower Hill, and a large band of prisoners was put in Tower dungeons. To -make room for these, many of the captives already there were released. -Mary died on November 17, 1558, and then began to dawn those “spacious -times of great Elizabeth” when England moved to greater glory than she -had ever known before. - -Queen Elizabeth, on her accession, came again to the Tower, spending the -time until the coronation within its walls, but she had too many -memories of captivity there to retain much love for the prison which had -now become her palace. Seated in a golden chariot, the new Queen, ablaze -with jewels, passed on her way to Westminster through a city decked out -in all manner of magnificence, and through a crowd shouting themselves -hoarse with delight at her coming. The Tower appears in the records of -Elizabeth’s reign almost wholly as a State prison. An attempt was made -to smooth out religious difficulties by committing a number of Church -dignitaries to its keeping, among them the Archbishop of York, and -Feckenham, Abbot of Westminster. Then came Lady Catherine Grey, Lady -Jane’s sister, who had offended the Queen by marrying Lord Hertford in -secret. Her husband, also, was soon afterwards a prisoner. He lay for -over nine years in his cell, but was released at the end of that time, -while Lady Hertford died in the Tower. The Countess of Lennox was -imprisoned three times within the walls, “not for any treason, but for -love matters.” Thomas Howard, son of the first Duke of Norfolk, was shut -up here “for falling in love with the Countess,” and died in captivity. -It is interesting to find that Cupid could forge Tower shackles as well -as make a wedding ring, and that to enter his service without the -Queen’s permission was almost a capital offence. - -In 1562 a suspected conspiracy to set the Queen of Scots--ill-fated -Mary--on the English throne was the cause of Arthur and Edmund de la -Pole, great-grandchildren of the murdered Duke of Clarence, being put -into the Beauchamp Tower, where, when we reach that portion of the -buildings on our rounds, we shall see their inscriptions on the walls. -The brothers were fated never to leave their place of confinement alive. -After fourteen years of respite, Tower Hill again claimed a victim, the -Duke of Norfolk suffering there in June 1579. In the following year -Roman Catholic prisoners were brought, one might say in droves, to Tower -cells. Many of them were subjected to torture either by the rack, the -“Scavenger’s Daughter,” the thumbscrew, or the boot. In 1581 Father -Campion, a Jesuit, was hurried to death, and in 1583 we hear of one -captive committing suicide in order to escape the awful fate of -dismemberment that many of his fellow-prisoners had suffered. It seems -as if the sanity of life, the sweet wholesomeness we associate with the -Merrie England of Shakespeare’s time, had not pierced the solid crust of -Tower tradition. To lay down a comedy of the great dramatist and take up -contemporary records of the Tower is as if one had stepped out of the -warm sunshine and fragrant air of mid-June into a dark, damp vault whose -atmosphere stings with the chill of a November night. - -Tower dungeons were becoming too crowded. Many a poor obscure captive -was sent over to France, perhaps to a harder lot, and the vacant places -were filled by political offenders. Northumberland killed himself in the -Tower; Arundel, made prisoner with him, died--from self-imposed -privations, it is said--some months after. Sir John Perrot, Lord Deputy -of Ireland, was charged with using some hasty words against the Queen, -and that was considered sufficiently dire an offence for Lord Chancellor -Hatton to have him brought to the Tower. But Elizabeth refused to sign -the warrant for his execution. He died, in his captivity, after six -months, of a broken heart. Of the imprisonment of Raleigh, and of Robert -Devereux, Earl of Essex, something will be said when we come to examine -those portions of the Tower with which their names are associated. With -the death of Elizabeth the curtain falls on the last of the Tudors--a -race of sovereigns who had used their faithful Tower well, as palace, -fortress, prison, and secret place in which their enemies were put out -of existence. Of many of the greater names of Elizabeth’s reign, Tower -annals bear no record, but soldier, statesman, or ecclesiastic, having -crossed the Queen’s humour, found it but a step from Court favour to -Traitor’s Gate. - -“In the grey hours of morning, March 24, 1603, watch and ward was kept -in London streets; and in all the neighbour counties men who had much at -stake in time of crisis wove uncertain plans to meet the thousand -chances that day might bring.... When day broke two horsemen were far on -the northern road, each spurring to forestall the other at Holyrood with -homage impatiently expected by the first ruler of the British Isles. At -a more leisurely pace the Elizabethan statesmen were riding in from -Richmond, where their mistress lay dead, to Whitehall Gate, where at ten -in the morning they proclaimed King James I.... The Lords of the Council -showed themselves agreed that there should be no revolution. The -decision was silently endorsed by a grateful nation. In city and -manor-house men laid aside their arms and breathed again.” In Mr. G. M. -Trevelyan’s admirable _England under the Stuarts_, from which these -words are taken, a delightful description is given of the state of -England at the coming of the King of Scotland to the English throne, and -the chapters might well be read in connection with any study of Tower -history. For, to understand the happenings within the Tower, it is -profitable to have some detailed knowledge of the state of society -outside its walls. - -King James, after his progress “during a month of spring weather” from -Edinburgh, came to the Tower and held his first Court there. The usual -procession to the Abbey was abandoned owing to plague that lurked in -city streets, and rejoicings within Tower walls were less lusty than -usual, but the King rode in state from Tower Hill to Westminster two -years later to open his first Parliament. It is interesting to read in -Mr. Sidney Lee’s _Life of Shakespeare_ that Shakespeare himself, with -eight players of the King’s company of actors, walked “from the Tower of -London to Westminster in the procession which accompanied the King in -his formal entry into London.” There is no other positive record of the -great dramatist and poet having visited the Tower. We can but conjecture -that a building so indissolubly bound up with the nation’s history would -offer no mute appeal to such a mind as his, and that he must have come, -at times, to look upon the place where, down to his own day, so many -tragic deeds had been done. - -Early in James’s reign many eminent prisoners were brought to the Tower -in connection with a plot, as the timid King thought, to place the Crown -on the head of Lady Arabella Stuart, his first cousin on the mother’s -side. In May 1611 Lady Arabella had married young William Seymour. This -event brought both bride and bridegroom into royal disfavour. The -husband was shut up in the Tower, and the wife kept in captivity at -Lambeth Palace. But this did not daunt them. Lady Arabella, on being -taken north on the way to Durham, pleaded illness when scarcely out of -sight of London. In disguise she escaped to Blackwall and took ship at -Leigh-on-Sea, there to await her husband, who had succeeded in getting -out of the Tower by dressing as a labourer and following out a cart -laden with wood. From the wharf, Seymour sailed to Leigh, but found that -the French vessel in which his wife had sought shelter had gone down the -river some hours before. He managed to cross to Ostend, but Lady -Arabella was caught in mid-channel and conveyed back to Tower walls, -which she never left again. In her latter years she became insane, and, -dying in 1615, was buried at midnight beside Mary Queen of Scots in the -Abbey. Seymour allowed unmerited punishment to fall on his young wife, -remained abroad until the storm was over, married again, and lived long -enough to see the Restoration. The conspiracy of 1603 had been the cause -of the execution of George Brook, brother of Lord Cobham, and two -priests went to death with him. Lord Cobham himself, and Lord Grey de -Wilton, were brought to the steps of the scaffold not many days after, -for participation in the same plot. Before the headsman had done his -work a reprieve arrived, and they were sent back to their place of -captivity. - -In 1604 the Guy Fawkes conspiracy necessitated a fresh batch of captives -being lodged in the Tower, and during our visit to the dungeons beneath -the White Tower we shall learn something of their fate, and of the fate, -also, of another prisoner of this period, Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned -in the Bloody Tower. Felton, the rogue responsible for the assassination -of Buckingham, had bought the knife with which he did the deed on Tower -Hill at a booth there. He was brought to the Tower on his arrest and -confined until the day of his hanging at Tyburn. They were not always, -however, political offences that filled the Tower cells at this period; -a private quarrel was the cause of Lords Arundel and Spencer being given -quarters in the prison, and Lord Audley was beheaded on Tower Hill in -1631 for committing crimes which were so revolting as to encourage the -belief that he was insane. - -With Charles I.--who did not visit the Tower, as far as is known, during -his life--the number of noble prisoners by no means grows less. In -November 1640 the Earl of Strafford was put in the Tower and condemned -to death after trial in Westminster Hall. The King was anxious to save -him; the Tower was to be seized and Strafford set at liberty; the royal -plans failed; Charles forsook his favourite even after having sworn that -not a hair of his head should be injured. The prisoner could anticipate -but one end. “Sweet Harte,” he wrote to his wife, “it is long since I -writt to you, for I am here in such trouble as gives me little or noe -respett.” Archbishop Laud had also been put in the prison-fortress, and -as Strafford passed down the sloping pathway that leads from Tower Green -to Traitor’s Gate, on his way to execution, Laud, from the window above -the arch of Bloody Tower, gave his friend his blessing. The Earl was led -out to Tower Hill and suffered death there on May 12, 1641. It is said -that 200,000 people witnessed the event, and that it was celebrated by -the lighting of bonfires at night. The Archbishop had been arrested at -Lambeth Palace and brought to the Tower by the river. He remained for -four years in his room in the Bloody Tower, and in his diary describes -the visit paid to him by Prynne, “who seeing me safe in bed, falls first -to my pockets to rifle them” in the search for papers, which he found in -plenty. “He bound up my papers, left two sentinels at my door, and went -his way.” On March 10, 1643, Laud was brought to a trial in Westminster -Hall which lasted twenty days. Because he had--so the charge was -worded--“attempted to subvert religion and the fundamental laws of the -realm,” he was condemned, and on Tower Hill, on January 10, 1645, when -seventy-two years of age, beheaded. He was buried, as we shall see in a -later chapter, in the church of Allhallows Barking, near by. Readers of -_John Inglesant_ will remember the vivid description given in that book -of these days in the reign of the first Charles, and in the moving -picture of the life of the time Laud played no inconsiderable part. -“Laud,” says Bishop Collins in his exhaustive _Laud Commemoration_ -volume, “deserves to be commemorated as among other things, a true -forerunner of social leaders of our own day. To him, at any rate, a man -is a man, and no man can be more; the great, the rich, the educated, had -no hope of favour from him; rather he reserved his mercy for the poor, -the ignorant, and the lowly.... We thank God for his noble care for the -poor, and his large and generous aims for the English race; for his -splendid example of diligent service in Church and State; for his work -as the great promoter of learning of his age.” From such an authority -these words are valuable and do much to set the balance right after the -splenetic outbursts of Carlyle and many a lesser writer. - -August, 1642, had seen the outbreak of the Civil War; Charles was at -Nottingham; the Tower was in the keeping of Parliament, and its captives -were those who adhered to the King. We find a Lord Mayor of London -amongst them for publishing the King’s proclamation with regard to the -militia, and gallant Cavaliers in plenty filled the cells. Sir John -Hotham and his son, charged with attempting to give Hull over to the -Royalists while it was being held for Parliament, were brought to the -Tower in 1643, and to Tower Hill in the following year. Sir Alexander -Carew, Governor of Plymouth, was beheaded shortly afterwards on a -similar indictment. When the King had himself suffered death at the -block, in Whitehall, the Tower contained many of his supporters, and -amongst those who shared their royal master’s fate were the Earl of -Holland, the Duke of Hamilton, and Arthur, Lord Capel. A fine old -knight of Wales, Sir John Owen, taken at the same time, and condemned to -death, was, by Ireton’s intercession, pardoned, and he returned in peace -to Wales. Worcester fight sent a batch of prisoners to the fortress, and -in the same year (1651), a preacher at St. Lawrence Jewry, named -Christopher Love, found to be in correspondence with the second Charles, -was beheaded on Tower Hill. A picture of the scene on the Hill at the -time of his death, engraved by a Dutchman, is one of the first drawings, -after those of Strafford and Laud, of an execution on that famous spot. -Lucy Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth, who had been imprisoned in -the Tower with her young son, was released by Cromwell after a long -detention. Cromwell was, during the last years of the Protectorate, in -constant fear of assassination. Miles Syndercombe, at one time in his -confidence, made an attempt on his life in 1657. Having been sentenced -to death, Syndercombe took fate in his own hands, terminated his life in -the solitude of his cell, and the body was dragged at a horse’s tail -from Tower Hill to Tyburn. Dr. John Hewitt, concerned in a rising in -Kent in favour of the Restoration, was beheaded on Tower Hill with -another plotter, Sir Henry Slingsley. The frequent escapes from Tower -walls during the Commonwealth period would lead to the belief that the -place was not guarded with the customary rigour when Cromwell was in -power, but when he died the Tower became an important centre of -attention. Colonel Fitz, then Lieutenant, had, so it is said, arranged -to admit three hundred men of the Parliamentary army. This little -negotiation was not carried to its desired conclusion, and a fresh -garrison was placed in the fortress on discovery of the plot. But unrest -was evident within the walls; the lack of agreement of those in charge -was followed by the seizure of the Tower by General Monk in the name of -Charles II. He released numbers of Cromwellian prisoners and placed a -strong garrison there under Major Nicholson. During the months that -passed before the return of Charles, the Tower held many important -prisoners. In 1660 Colonel John Lambert was made captive for opposing -Monk’s scheme for the Restoration. Pepys, who comes upon the scene to -illumine the time with his detailed accounts of happenings grave and -gay, gives, “as related by Rugge,” an account of Lambert’s escape. At -eight of the clock at night, it appears, he slid down, by a rope tied -fast to his window, and was awaited by men ready to take him off by the -river. “She who made the bed being privy to his escape, that night, to -blind the warder when he came to lock the chamber door, went to bed, and -possessed Colonel Lambert’s place and put on his night-cap.” This -interesting female was duly discovered in the morning, after having -deluded the jailer by replying in a manly voice to his “good-night” the -evening before, and was herself made captive for her temerity. Lambert, -who had succeeded in getting to Warwickshire, was recaptured and -subsequently banished. - -When Charles II. came to the throne the early years of his rule were -occupied in punishing, with merciless severity, all who had in any way -been aiders or abettors of those responsible for his father’s tragic -death. In the Restoration year the Marquis of Argyll, afterwards -executed in Edinburgh, was a Tower prisoner. Poor Sir Harry Vane, not in -any way convicted of complicity with the regicides, was brought to Tower -Hill in 1662, and there suffered execution without a shadow of justice -to cover the crime. Pepys rose “at four o’clock in the morning” of the -day when Vane was to suffer. “About eleven o’clock we all went out to -Tower Hill, and there, over against the scaffold, made on purpose this -day, saw Sir Harry Vane brought. A very great press of people.” The -people of London at that time went out to see men brought to the block, -just as their successors patronise a Lord Mayor’s show. Pepys had taken -a window in Trinity Square, but was unable to see the actual fall of the -axe because “the scaffold was so crowded that we could not see it done.” -Charles II. was the last of the kings to sleep in the Tower the night -before coronation, and he, in keeping with tradition, made a number of -Knights of the Bath who would, after the ceremonies in St. John’s -Chapel, ride with him in the procession to Westminster on the following -day. Of course Pepys had secured a window “in Corne-hill, and there we -had a good room to ourselves, with wine and good cake, and saw the show -very well.... Glorious was the show with gold and silver, that we were -not able to look at it, our eyes at last being so much overcome,” but -the volatile diarist has sufficiently recovered the power of vision to -observe that “both the King and Duke of York took notice of us as they -saw us at the window.” This proved to be one of the “most glorious -cavalcades” that ever left the Tower. - -The Great Fire of 1666 put the Tower in great danger. Had it reached the -walls and set alight the stores of gunpowder lying within, we should -have had very little of the work of the Conqueror and Henry III. left to -us. The King himself had ordered the demolition of surrounding -buildings, and by such means was the progress of the fire checked; -Pepys, of course, was running about, and we hear of him “on one of the -high places of the Tower” where he was able to look towards London -Bridge and did see “an infinite great fire.” George Villiers, second -Duke of Buckingham, began his series of five imprisonments in the Tower -in 1658, during the Protectorate, and continued them well into Charles’s -reign. But though constantly in trouble his offences were as constantly -forgiven by the King, and he was never a captive very long. Of Colonel -Blood’s escapade in 1671 something will be said in the third chapter, -but the irrepressible Pepys was hunting for treasure--not Crown -jewels--in 1662 when he was led to believe a sum of £7000 was “hid in -the Tower.” He and assistants set to work to dig for this hidden gold, -but “it raining and the work being done in the open garden” the search -was abandoned. The treasure is yet undiscovered. The amazing - -[Illustration: GATEWAY OF BLOODY TOWER WITH ENTRANCE TO JEWEL HOUSE -(WAKEFIELD TOWER)] - -Pepys was himself a captive in the Tower from May 1679 to February 1680, -and seems to have lived fairly well there if the account of his expenses -be any criterion. William Penn was also a captive about this time, and -wrote _No Cross, no Crown_ during his imprisonment. That singular -invention of Titus Oates, called the Popish Plot, sent about forty men -to the block, among them William, Lord Stafford, who was executed on -Tower Hill on December 29, 1680. Three years later, the Rye House Plot -brought Lord William Russell and Algernon Sidney to the Tower and -execution, while Essex, who had also been lodged in the dungeons, and -had, like Russell and Sidney, not actually been concerned in the -assassination scheme planned at Rye House, was found in his prison with -his throat cut. - -James II. omitted the procession from Tower to Westminster, and it has -never since been observed as a necessary prelude to a king’s coronation. -There is no likelihood of the custom ever being revived now that the -Tower has fallen from its high estate as a royal residence. The young -son of Lucy Walters, who had lived in the Tower, as we have seen, as a -boy, now returned as the defeated Duke of Monmouth, beloved of the -people for his handsome face, but unstable in character. He was beheaded -in 1685, on Tower Hill, having been led there with difficulty through -the dense crowd of citizens gathered to see him die, and to cheer him on -the sad way up to the top of the hill and the scaffold. A contemporary -engraving shows the excited populace packed closely together in solid -ranks. Jack Ketch, the headsman, was almost torn limb from limb by the -infuriated mob when he had made four ineffectual strokes on the neck of -the victim and had severed the head with the fifth. The Seven Bishops -came to the Martin Tower in 1688, and Judge Jeffreys, of infamous -record, died in the Bloody Tower--what was the fate that lodged him in a -place so appropriately named?--in 1689. King James had fled the country, -and without bloodshed the great Revolution of 1688 was brought about. - -Sir William Fenwick, who had been found guilty of high treason, was the -only victim brought to Tower Hill during the time of William and Mary, -but there were many prisoners of State in the Tower, partisans, for the -most part, of the Stuarts. Charles, Lord Mohun, was made a prisoner -within the walls in this reign, not for “adhering to their Majesties’ -enemies” but for having killed a celebrated comedian, in a quarrel about -a famous actress. In 1695 Sir Christopher Wren examined the Beauchamp -and Bloody Towers, “to report what it would cost to repaire and putt -them in a condition” to hold more prisoners. The Tower capacities, it is -evident, were being tested to the utmost limit. - -Queen Anne had some French prisoners of war immured in the Tower soon -after her accession, and, in 1712, Sir Robert Walpole was nominally a -captive there. I say nominally, because his apartment during his -confinement from February to July was crowded by fashionable visitors -whose carriages blocked the gateway at the foot of Tower Hill. We are -indeed in modern times when captivity in the old fortress-prison was -treated as a society function; Walpole’s rooms were, after his release, -occupied--I used this milder term, as he could not, in the strict sense, -be called a captive--by the Earl of Lansdowne, author of that -unpresentable comedy, _The Old Gallant_. - -With the House of Hanover the Tower records take a graver turn. Under -George I. the rebellion of 1715 brought young Derwentwater, taken -prisoner at Preston, to the Tower. Lord Kenmure was captured at the -same time, with other Jacobite Lords, and was brought, with -Derwentwater, to Tower Hill, and there, together, they were executed. -Kenmure was put to death first, and all marks of his tragic end having -been removed from the scaffold, Derwentwater was brought out of the -house on Tower Hill (where Catherine House now stands), to suffer on the -same block. The crowd in Trinity Square had been disappointed of a third -victim, for Lord Nithsdale, as we shall see later, managed to escape -from the Tower on the evening before. In 1722 the Jacobites plotted to -seize the Tower; their plan failed; they were made prisoners there -instead, and lay in the dungeons for several months. We have passed -through the period of _The Black Dwarf_ and come to the days of -_Waverley_ and the romantic “Forty-five.” In 1744 three men of a -Highland regiment, which had mutinied on being ordered to Flanders after -being promised that foreign service should not be required, were shot on -Tower Green; others were sent to the plantations. This roused great -resentment in Scotland, and prepared the way for the coming of Prince -Charles Edward, who landed on the Island of Eriskay in July 1745. This -young hero of incomparable song and story was, to quote Andrew Lang, -“the last of a princely lineage whose annals are a world’s wonder for -pity, and crime, and sorrow,” and Prince Charlie “has excelled them all -in his share of the confessed yet mysterious charm of his House.” After -Culloden a sad harvest was reaped on Tower Hill, and we shall hear more -of the last of the Jacobites, who perished at the block for their -loyalty, when we visit the scene of their sufferings. - -A few political prisoners in George III.’s reign; the committal of -Arthur O’Connor, one of the “United Irishmen,” in 1798; the imprisonment -of Sir Francis Burdett in 1810; and the placing there of the Cato Street -conspirators in 1820, brings our list of captives to a close. - -In Queen Victoria’s time, on October 30, 1841, a fire occurred within -the Inner Ward of the Tower, which threatened at one time during its -fury to make sad havoc of surrounding buildings. The storehouse of arms -which stood where the barracks are now placed, to the east of St. -Peter’s Church, was gutted, and the smoke and flames were blown over -towards the White Tower. Fortunately, the store alone was destroyed, and -it was reported to have been ugly enough to deserve its fate. The -Tower’s last trial came upon it, unawares, in January 24, 1885, when -the “Fenians” laid an infernal machine in the Banqueting Room of the -White Tower. The explosion that followed did considerable damage to the -exhibits in the building, and many visitors were injured, but the White -Tower itself, secure in its rock-like strength, was in no way the worse -for what might, in more modern buildings, have rent the walls asunder. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -A WALK THROUGH THE TOWER - - The raised portcullis’ arch they pass, - The wicket with its bars of brass, - The entrance long and low, - Flanked at each turn by loopholes strait - Where bowmen might in ambush wait - (If force or fraud should burst the gate), - To gall an entering foe. - SCOTT. - - -The Gascoyne plan of 1597, reproduced at the end of this book, will show -a straggling line of buildings running partly up the slope of Tower Hill -and terminating in what was known as the Bulwark Gate. It was there that -prisoners, with the exception, of course, of those who came by water to -Traitor’s Gate, were, in Tudor times, delivered to the custodians of the -Tower; and it was there, also, that all who were to be executed on Tower -Hill were given by the Tower authorities into the charge of the City -officials. Grass grew on the hill and its river slope in those days, -and, leaving the Tower Gateway behind, one would, as it were, step into -an open meadow, the declivity towards the Moat on one side and the -cottages of Petty Wales on the other. The aspect of this main entrance -to the Tower has been so altered that it is a little difficult nowadays -to reconstruct it in imagination. The Moat made a semicircular bend -where the present wooden stockade stands, and it had to be crossed at -least twice--some accounts say three times--before the Byward Tower -could be reached. The first drawbridge was protected by the Lion Gate; -the Lion Tower stood near by to command that gate, and was surrounded by -the waters of the Moat. All trace of these outer barbicans and waterways -has disappeared; the Towers have been pulled down, the ditch filled up, -to make the modern approach to the Wharf. - -On the right, within the present wooden gateway, the unattractive -erection known as the “ticket-office” occupies the site of the royal -menagerie, which existed here from the days of our Norman kings to the -year 1834, when it was removed to Regent’s Park, and from which the -present Zoo has developed. In the time of Henry III. (1252) the Sheriffs -of London were “ordered to pay fourpence a day for the maintenance of a -white bear, and to provide a muzzle and chain to hold him while fishing -in the Thames.” In Henry’s reign the first elephant seen in England -since the time of the Romans came to the Tower menagerie, and lions and -leopards followed. James I. and his friends came here frequently “to see -lions and bears baited by dogs,” and in 1708 Strype, the historian, -mentions “eagles, owls, and two cats of the mountain,” as occupants of -the cages. In 1829, and during the last five years of its existence -here, the collection consisted of lions, tigers, leopards, a jaguar, -puma, ocelot, caracal, chetah, striped hyæna, hyæna dog, wolves, civet -cats, grey ichneumon, paradoxurus, brown coati, racoon, and a pit of -bears. The “Master of the King’s bears and apes” was an official of some -importance, and received the princely salary of three halfpence a day; -but this was in Plantagenet times. - -_Middle Tower._--The first “Tower” that the visitor of to-day passes -under is called, by reason of its position at one time in the centre of -the old ditch, the Middle Tower. Its great circular bastions commanded -the outer drawbridge, and its gateway was defended by a double -portcullis. The sharp turn in the approach--formerly a bridge, now a -paved roadway--to this Tower would make it impossible to “rush” this -gateway with any success. When Elizabeth returned as Queen to the Tower, -which she had left, five years before, as prisoner, it was in front of -this Middle Tower that she alighted from her horse and fell on her knees -“to return thanks to God,” as Bishop Burnet writes, “who had delivered -her from a danger so imminent, and from an escape as miraculous as that -of David.” - -_The Moat and Byward Tower._--The bridge and causeway connecting the -Middle and Byward Towers has altered little in appearance, and looks, -to-day, very much as it does in Gascoyne’s plan. But the broad Moat has -been drained; the water was pumped out in 1843, and the bed filled up -with gravel and soil to form a drill ground. It was across that portion -of the Moat lying to the north, under Tower Hill, that two attempts at -escape were made in the last years of Charles I.’s reign. Monk, the -future Duke of Albermarle, had been taken captive at the siege of -Nantwich by Fairfax, and was a prisoner in the Tower for three years. -With him were brought two fellow-prisoners, Lord Macguire and Colonel -MacMahon. - -[Illustration: MIDDLE TOWER (WEST FRONT), NOW THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOWER -BUILDINGS, BUT FORMERLY SURROUNDED BY THE MOAT] - -They managed to escape from their cell by sawing through the door, at -night, and lowered themselves from the Tower walls to the ditch by means -of a rope which they had found, according to directions conveyed to them -from without, inside a loaf of bread. They succeeded in swimming the -Moat, but were unlucky enough to surprise a sentry, stationed near the -Middle Tower, who had heard the splash they made when leaving the rope -and jumping into the water. On their coming to the opposite bank they -were re-taken, cast back into the prison, and shortly afterwards hanged -at Tyburn. The Lieutenant of the Tower was heavily fined for “allowing -the escape,” poor man! A few years afterwards, Lord Capel, made captive -at the surrender of Colchester Castle, broke prison by having had tools -and a rope secretly conveyed to him with instructions as to which part -of the Moat he should find most shallow. With deliberation he performed -all that was necessary to get himself outside the walls, but he found -the depth of the ditch exceed his expectations. Attempting to wade -across, he was nearly dragged under water by the weight of mud that -clogged his feet, and was, at one point in his perilous progress through -the water, about to call loudly for help lest he should be unable to -continue the exertion necessary and so be drowned. However, cheered by -friends waiting under cover of bushes on the Tower Hill bank, he came at -last to firm ground. He was carried to rooms in the Temple, and from -thence conveyed, some days later, to Lambeth. But the boatman who had -carried the fugitive and his friends from the Temple Stairs, guessing -who his passenger was, raised an alarm. Capel was discovered, put again -in the Tower, and beheaded in March, 1649, beside Westminster Hall. The -grim-looking Byward Tower is said to have been so named from the fact -that the by-word, or password, had to be given at its gateway before -admittance could be gained even to the outer ward of the fortress. On -that side of it nearest the river, a postern gateway leads to a small -drawbridge across the ditch. This gave access to the royal landing-place -on the wharf, immediately opposite, and in this way privileged persons -were able to enter the Tower without attention to those formalities -necessary to gain entry to the buildings in the ordinary way. In the -Byward Tower, to the right, under the archway, is the Warders’ Parlour, -a finely-vaulted room, and outside its doorway we meet one or two of -those Yeomen Warders, whose picturesque uniform, so closely associated -with the Tower, was designed by Holbein the painter, and dates from -Tudor days. These Yeomen Warders are sworn in as special constables, -whose duties lie within the jurisdiction of the Tower, and they take -rank with sergeant-majors in the army. When State trials were held in -Westminster Hall the Yeoman Gaoler escorted the prisoner to and from the -Tower, carrying the processional axe, still preserved in the King’s -House here. The edge of the axe was turned towards the captive after his -trial, during the sad return to the prison-house, if he had--as was -nearly always the case--been condemned to die. This Yeoman still carries -the historic axe in State processions, but it is now merely an emblem of -a vanished power to destroy. Allied to the Warders are a body of men -known as the Yeomen of the Guard, or Beefeaters, who attend on the -King’s person at all his State functions, whether it be in procession or -at levée. The Yeomen were first seen beyond Tower walls in the -coronation procession of Henry VII. The eastern front of the Byward -Tower has a quaint, old-world appearance, and has altered little since -Elizabethan days. - -_Bell Tower._--This old Tower, at the angle of the Ballium Wall, -contained at one time, within the turret still to be seen above its -roof, the Tower bell, which in former days was used as an alarm signal. -In the regulations of 1607 we find that “when the Tower bell doth ring -at nights for the shutting in of the gates, all the prisoners, with -their servants, are to withdraw themselves into their chambers, and not -to goe forth that night.” The walls, built by Henry III., are of immense -strength, the masonry being solid for fully ten feet above the ground. -The Tower contains an upper and a lower dungeon, the former lit by -comparatively modern windows, the latter still possessing narrow -openings or arrow-slits. In the upper cell, the walls of which are eight -feet thick, four notable prisoners were confined--Bishop Fisher and Anne -Boleyn in Henry VIII.’s time, Princess Elizabeth in Mary’s reign, and -Lady Arabella Stuart in the days of James I. Fisher was eighty years old -when brought to linger here “in cold, in rags, and in misery.” The aged -Bishop had refused to comply with the Act of Succession and acknowledge -Henry supreme head of the Church of England. From this prison he wrote -to Cromwell, “My dyett, also, God knoweth how slender it is at any -tymes, and now in myn age my stomak may nott awaye but with a few kynd -of meats, which if I want, I decay forthwith, and fall into crafs and -diseases of my bodye, and kan not keep myself in health.” But no -alleviation of his sufferings did he obtain, and early in the morning, -when winter and spring had passed away, and slender rays of June -sunshine had found entrance to his dismal dwelling-place, the Lieutenant -of the Tower came to him to announce that a message from the King had -arrived, and that Fisher was to suffer death that day. The Bishop took -this as happy tidings, granting release from intolerable conditions of -life. At nine o’clock he was carried to Little Tower Hill (towards the -present Royal Mint buildings), praying as he went. On the scaffold he -exclaimed, “_Accedite ad eum et illuminamini, et facies vestræ non -confundentur_,” with hands uplifted, and, having spoken some few words -to the crowd around, was repeating the words of the Thirty-first Psalm, -“In thee, O Lord, have I put my trust,” when the axe fell. Into the -lower dungeon Sir Thomas More was taken in the same month as Fisher -(April 1534). More had been friend and companion to King Henry, and had -held the office of Lord Chancellor after Wolsey. But past friendship and -high services were forgotten when, with Fisher, he refused to accept -the Oath in the Act of Succession, and he was committed to the Tower. -For fifteen months he lay confined in this “close, filthy prison, shut -up among mice and rats,” and was so weakened as to be “scarce able to -stand,” when taken to the scaffold, on Tower Hill, on July 6, 1535. In -Mr. Prothero’s _Psalms in Human Life_ his last moments are thus -described:--“The scaffold was unsteady, and, as he put his foot on the -ladder, he said to the Lieutenant, ‘I pray thee see me safe up, and for -my coming down let me shift for myself.’ After kneeling down on the -scaffold and repeating the Psalm ‘Have mercy upon me, O God’ (Ps. li), -which had always been his favourite prayer, he placed his head on the -low log that served as a block, and received the fatal stroke.” His head -was placed on London Bridge, but soon afterwards it was claimed by his -devoted daughter and was buried with her at Canterbury when she died, in -1544. The bodies of Fisher and More are buried side by side, in St. -Peter’s, on Tower Green, but Fisher’s remains had rested for some years -in Allhallows Barking, on Tower Hill, before removal to the Tower -chapel. At the entrance to the upper chamber of the Bell Tower from the -passage on the wall, known as Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, there is the -following inscription on the stone:-- - - BI·TORTVRE·STRAVNGE·MY·TROVTH·WAS·TRIED·YET OF·MY·LIBERTY·DENIED: - THER·FOR·RESON·HATH·ME PERSWADED THAT PASYENS MVST BE YMBRASYD: - THOGH HARD·FORTVNE·CHASYTH·ME·WYTH·SMART·YET·PASYENS SHALL·PREVAYL. - -Beyond the Bell Tower a broad window, with balcony, will be noticed in -the adjacent King’s House. This gives light to a room known as the -Council Chamber, in which Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators were -tried and condemned to the rack. Above the fireplace in this room an -elaborate carving preserves the features of the first Stuart who sat on -the English throne, and, near by, the many virtues--lest their existence -should be doubted by unbelievers--of that amiable monarch are set forth -for all to read who may. In this room Pepys “did go to dine” (February -1663-4) with Sir J. Robinson, then Lieutenant of the Tower, “his -ordinary table being very good.” James, Duke of Monmouth, taken as a -fugitive after Sedgemoor, was imprisoned in this house (1685) till his -execution, and here he parted from his wife and children during the last -sad hours. - -_Traitor’s Gate and St. Thomas’s Tower._--If any were asked what -impressed them most during their visit to the Tower, or what they -desired to see when planning that visit, I think that they would name -the Traitor’s Gate. It is certainly the best preserved of the Tudor -portions, has been least spoiled by intrusion of irrelevant things, and -is left in its quietness to the doves that incessantly flit in and out -of the crevices of its stones and rest upon the bars of its massive -gateway. Above it rises the great arch, sixty-two feet span, supporting -St. Thomas’s Tower, built, as has already been stated, by Henry III., -and named after St. Thomas of Canterbury. This “Watergate,” as it was at -one time called, was the only direct way of entering the Tower from the -river, and, before the draining of the moat, the gate here was always -partly covered by water, and boats were brought right up to the steps in -front of the Bloody Tower. They were moored to the heavy iron ring that -is still to be seen at the left of the archway of the tower just -mentioned. The older steps will be noticed beneath the more modern -stone-facings laid upon them, and those steps have been trodden by some -of the most famous men and women in our history. It will be remembered -that between these steps and the - -[Illustration: THE TRAITOR’S GATE, FROM WITHIN] - -gloomy archway leading up to Tower Green, the condemned Sir Thomas More -met, on his way to the Bell Tower, his daughter, who, in a frenzy of -grief, thrust her way through the guards and flung herself on her -father’s neck, crying, in despair, “O my father, my father!” Those who -record the scene say that even the stern warders were moved to tears -when the father gave his child his last blessing and she was led away -from him. To these steps came Anne Boleyn; Cromwell, Earl of Essex; -Queen Katherine Howard; Seymour, Duke of Somerset; Lady Jane Grey, -Princess Elizabeth, Devereux, Earl of Essex; the Duke of Monmouth, and -the Seven Bishops. In the room above the Gate, Lord Grey de Wilton died -(1614), after eleven years of imprisonment on the mere accusation of -wishing to marry Arabella Stuart, “without permission of King James I.” -St. Thomas’s Tower at one time, as is evident from the old piscina -discovered there, contained a chapel; the tower has been carefully -restored, without and within, and is now the residence of the Keeper of -the Crown Jewels. - -_The Bloody Tower._--In Henry VIII.’s reign this was known as the Garden -Tower, and took its name from the Constable’s garden, now the Parade in -front of the King’s House; but since Elizabeth’s time it has been called -the Bloody Tower, owing, it is surmised, to the suicide therein of Henry -Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, in 1585. But that is the least of -its mysteries. It was within this tower that the young Princes -disappeared in July, 1483. They had been removed from the royal palace -near this tower when Richard assumed kingship, and placed within these -grim chambers. They were closely watched; all help from without would be -offered in vain; their spirits drooped, and the feeling crept upon them -that they would never leave their prison-house alive. Sir Robert -Brackenbury had become Lieutenant of the Tower: to him Richard, who was -riding towards Gloucester, sent a messenger with letters asking him if -he would be willing to rid the King of the Princes. This messenger had -delivered his papers to the Lieutenant as he knelt at prayer in the -Chapel of St. John in the White Tower. Brackenbury refused the King’s -request, and said he would be no party to such an act even if his -refusal cost him his life. The messenger returned in haste, spurring his -horse westward, and overtook Richard at Warwick. The King finding -Brackenbury obdurate, sent off Sir James Tyrrell with a warrant to -obtain possession of the keys of the Tower for one night. The keys were -given to him, and he assumed command of the place for the time. Two -ruffians, John Dighton and Miles Forrest--some say a third was there, -reminding one of the mysterious third murderer in _Macbeth_--crept into -the bedroom of the sleeping boys and smothered them with the bedclothes. -Shakespeare has painted the scene so vividly that, though the actual -manner of death is unknown, this one is accepted as probably nearest the -truth. Tyrrell saw the dead bodies, gave orders that they should be -buried secretly “at the foot of the stairs,” then, resigning the keys, -rode off to give the news to Richard. Tyrrell came himself to death on -Tower Hill in later years, and his accomplices died in misery. In -Charles II.’s days two skeletons were found “under the steps,” not of -this tower but of the White Tower, and were laid in Westminster Abbey. - -Sir Walter Raleigh was a captive in the Bloody Tower from 1604-1616, and -in its chambers he wrote the portion of his _History of the World_ that -he was able to finish before his later troubles and death put an end to -his labours. It is pleasant to hear of Raleigh spending his days, with -his great work to cheer him, at one time sitting in the Constable’s -garden, at another conversing from the walls with those who passed to -and fro below. But his writings were not sufficient to satisfy the -energies of this son of an energetic age. He set up a laboratory, with -retorts and furnaces, and made chemical experiments; and so it happened -that at this time, to quote the elder Disraeli, “Raleigh was surrounded, -in the Tower, by the highest literary and scientific circle in the -nation.” These men of mark in the earlier years of the first Stuart King -came as guests to the Tower, or had the misfortune to be detained there -“during the King’s pleasure.” Raleigh’s wife and son lived with him, and -they had their own servants to wait on them. But the Lieutenant of the -Tower, Sir George Harvey, with whom Raleigh had spent long evenings and -with whom he had made warm friendship, was succeeded by Sir William -Waad, who seems to have taken a personal dislike to Sir Walter, and -contrived to make his life as miserable as possible. In 1610 Raleigh was -kept a close prisoner for three months, and his wife and child, no -longer allowed to share his captivity, were “banished the Tower”--a -decree that would prove only too welcome to many--and lived for some -time in a house on Tower Hill. In 1615 the King consented to release -Raleigh, and allow him to command an expedition to El Dorado, which set -off in 1617. What the result of that unfortunate voyage was all know: -mutiny and despair may best describe its end. The King was furious; his -greed for Spanish gold was unsatisfied; Spain demanded the head of “one -who had been her mortal enemy.” A decision had to be made whether -Raleigh should be delivered to the Spaniard or put back in the Tower. -His wife planned escape for the husband she had sacrificed every comfort -to aid. On a Sunday night, when Sir Walter was detained in the City--in -his wife’s house in Broad Street--he put on disguise, crept through the -narrow lanes to Tower Hill, went down by Allhallows Church to Tower -Dock, where a boat was waiting to receive him and take him to a ship at -Tilbury. But when the watermen put out into the river they saw a second -boat following them closely; Sir Walter was betrayed by a man he had -trusted, and found himself a prisoner in the Tower once again. He was -shut up in the Brick Tower, where he awaited his trial, then removed to -the Gate House, by Westminster Hall. When his sentence was passed and -he had but a few days to live, his wife remained with him, and they -parted at the midnight before execution. In the morning the Dean of -Westminster gave him his last Communion, and at eight o’clock he went -out to Old Palace Yard, cheerfully prepared for what was to follow. - -In the Bloody Tower Sir Thomas Overbury was poisoned in 1613. This is -one of the blackest crimes that stain Tower history. Overbury had been a -friend of Raleigh’s, and had often visited him in his confinement; now -Sir Thomas himself, because he had condemned the marriage between the -Earl of Somerset and Lady Frances Howard, was brought to the same tower. -Lady Frances determined to have Overbury put out of the way, and a -notorious quack and procuress of the period, Mrs. Turner, had been hired -to administer the drug. But this slow-poisoning proving too lengthy a -process, two hired assassins ended Overbury’s sufferings by smothering -him, at night, with the pillows of his bed. Some time afterwards, by the -confession of a boy who had been at the time in the employment of the -apothecary from whom the drugs were bought, the crime was disclosed. -Horror and indignation caused a public outcry for vengeance: the -Lieutenant of - -[Illustration: THE BLOODY TOWER AND JEWEL HOUSE (WAKEFIELD TOWER), -LOOKING EAST] - -the Tower, Elwes, with Mrs. Turner and the two murderers, were all put -to death. Somerset and his Countess were imprisoned in the room in the -Bloody Tower, where Overbury had died; they were eventually pardoned and -“lived in seclusion and disgrace.” - -Another victim, who died in this tower during Charles I.’s reign, was -Sir John Eliot, a man of great abilities and at one time Vice-Admiral of -Devon. He had already been imprisoned, and released, before his entry to -the Tower in 1629, and he passed away, in his cell, in 1632. Mr. -Trevelyan has said of him, “His letters, speeches, and actions in the -Tower reveal a spirit of cheerfulness and even of humour, admirable in -one who knows that he has chosen to die in prison in the hands of -victorious enemies.” During his last months he contracted consumption in -his unhealthy quarters and suffered harsh treatment. Even when Sir John -had died the hard-hearted King refused to allow his body to be given to -his relatives for burial, and commanded him “to be buried in the parish -in which he died.” He was laid to rest in the Chapel on Tower Green, -which may be called the parish church of the Tower. - -Felton, the murderer of Buckingham, was thrown into this tower in 1628 -and Archbishop Laud was prisoner here from December 16, 1640, to January -10, 1644. Here, also, in July, 1683, Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex “cutt -his own throat,” as the Register of St. Peter ad Vincula shows. The -infamous Judge Jeffreys came here as prisoner in 1688, having been -“taken” in a low ale-house in Wapping, and is reported to have spent his -days in Bloody Tower “imbibing strong drink,” from the effects of which -employment he died in 1689. This old tower has tragedy and misery enough -in its records to deserve its name, and it is a mistake on the part of -Tower authorities to allow so interesting a building to be closed -altogether to the public. The narrow chamber above the archway on the -south side still contains all the machinery for raising and lowering the -portcullis which, when down, would at one time have prevented all access -to the Inner Ward. This is believed to be the only ancient portcullis in -England that is still in working order. - -_The Wakefield Tower._--The lower portion of this tower is, with the -White Tower, one of the oldest portions of all the buildings, and was -laid down in Norman times. Henry III. rebuilt the upper part, and it -served as the entrance to his palace, which lay to the east. During the -Commonwealth the great hall in which Anne Boleyn was tried, and which -was attached to this tower, was demolished. The name “Wakefield” was -given to the tower after the battle of Wakefield in 1460, when the -captive Yorkists were lodged here. In former times the tower had been -called the Record Tower and the Hall Tower. In the octagonal chamber -where the Crown Jewels are now kept, the recess to the south-east was at -one time an oratory. In Tower records of the thirteenth century it is so -spoken of. Here tradition asserts that Henry VI. was murdered by Duke -Richard of Gloucester, who, entering the chamber from the palace, found -Henry at prayer and treacherously stabbed him to death. To the dungeon -beneath this tower the men who were “out in the Forty-Five,” and who -were taken captive after that rebellion which was crushed at Culloden, -were brought and huddled together with so little regard for the -necessity of fresh air that many of them died on the damp earthen floor -of the cell. The walls of this dungeon are thirteen feet thick; from -floor to vaulted roof, within, there is only ten feet space. Those men -who survived even the terrors of this place, and whose hearts remained -true to the royal house of Stuart, were shipped off to the West Indies, -and so ended “an auld sang.” The wonder, the bravery, the sacrifice and -sadness of it all is set down for after ages to marvel at in _Waverley_. -Happy those who fell at Culloden, for they, at least, rest under the -heather; they escaped the miserable English dungeons and the -wickednesses of the plantations. - -As we leave the Wakefield Tower we pass down under the archway of the -Bloody Tower, and, in going eastwards and turning to the left a few -yards farther on, come to the foot of the grassy slope at the top of -which stands the great White Tower, tinkered at by Wren, but otherwise, -to-day, much as the Conqueror left it. In this now open ground, where -has been placed the gun-carriage on which the body of Queen Victoria was -carried from Windsor railway station to St. George’s Chapel on that -memorable 2nd of February, 1901, rose, in Plantagenet and Tudor days, -the Royal Palace in the Tower, and the Hall in which the Courts of -Justice sat. The Court of Common Pleas was held in this great hall by -the river, a Gothic building, dating, probably, from the reign of Henry -III.; the Court of King’s Bench being held in the Lesser Hall “under the -east turret of the Keep”--or White Tower. At certain times “the right -of public entry” of all citizens to the Tower was insisted on. But a -certain ceremonial had to be observed beforehand. The “aldermen and -commoners met in Allhallows Barking Church, on Tower Hill, and chose six -sage persons to go as a deputation to the Tower, and ask leave to see -the King, and demand free access for all people to the courts of law -held within the Tower.” It was also “to be granted that no guard should -keep watch over them, or close the gates”--a most necessary precaution. -Their request being granted by the King “the six messengers returned to -Barking Church ... and the Commons then elected three men of standing to -act as spokesmen. Great care was taken that no person should go into the -royal presence who was in rags or shoeless. Every one was to have his -hair cut close and his face newly shaved. Mayor, aldermen, sheriff, -cryer, beadles, were all to be clean and neat, and every one was to lay -aside his cape and cloak, and put on his coat and surcoat.” - -_The White Tower or Keep._--This is the very heart and centre of the -Tower buildings, and all the lesser towers and connecting walls, making -the Inner and Outer Wards, and the broad moat encircling all, are but -the means of protection and inviolable security of this ancient keep. -Within its rock-like walls a threatened king could live in security. -Here were provided the elementary necessaries of life--a storehouse for -food, a well to supply fresh water, a great fireplace (in the thickness -of the wall), and a place of devotion, all within the walls of this one -tower. The doorway by which we enter, after passing the ridiculous -ticket-box and unnecessary policeman, was cut through the solid wall in -Henry VIII.’s time. At the foot of the stairs giving access, the bones -of the murdered Princes were found in a small chest, some ten feet below -the ground, during Charles II.’s reign. - -The winding stairway within the wall leads us to the western end of the -Chapel of St. John, which is, with the possible exception of the Lady -Chapel at Durham, the finest Norman chapel in England. It has a -beautiful arcading, with heavy circular pillars, square capitals and -bases, and a wide triforium over the aisles. Here is a perfect Norman -church in miniature. The south aisle at one time communicated with the -royal palace, and the gallery with the State apartments of the keep. It -is only within recent years that the sanctity of the place has been -again observed, and now visitors behave here as in any other consecrated -building; but it was for many years used as a sort of store chamber, and -the authorities at one time proposed turning it into a military tailors’ -workshop! That was in the mid-nineteenth century, when England in -general had fallen into a state of artistic _zopf_ and the daughters of -music were brought low. So low, too, had the guardians of the nation -fallen in their ideas that this beautiful building meant nothing more to -them than a place, a commodious place, of four stone walls, that was -lying idle and might be “put to some practical use”! The Prince Consort -made timely intervention and the desecration was not persisted in. It -was in this chapel that the rabble in Richard II.’s time found -Archbishop Sudbury at prayer; at prayer, too, in this chapel, knelt -Brackenbury when the messenger from King Richard III. brought demands -for the Princes’ murder; here Elizabeth of York, Queen of Henry VII., -lay in state after death; here Queen Mary, after the death of her -brother, Edward VI., attended Mass and gave thanks for the suppression -of revolt; and here the vacillating Northumberland, father-in-law of -Lady Jane Grey, declared himself a Roman Catholic lest he should lose -his life, but without the effect he desired. In this solemn place, too, -those who aspired to knighthood watched their arms at the altar, passing -the night in vigil before the day when the king would elect them to the -order. This was the place of worship of our Norman and Plantagenet -kings. Could any other building in the country claim like associations? -Yet these things slip the mind of a generation, and then is the hallowed -ground made desolate. - -The large rooms entered from the chapel are the former State apartments, -now given over to the housing of a collection of weapons and armour -which is described on the show-cases, and therefore need not be detailed -here. In these rooms Baliol in the reign of Edward I., and King David of -Scotland in that of Edward III., were kept prisoners, but not in the -strictest sense. Other notable captives here were King John of France -(after the battle of Poitiers), Prince (afterwards King) James of -Scotland, and Charles, Duke of Orleans--all of whom have been spoken of -in the previous chapter. Several models of the Tower buildings, made at -various periods, will be found in these rooms. The larger--western--apartment, - -[Illustration: INTERIOR OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, LOOKING -EAST] - -in which are preserved the block and axe used at the last execution on -Tower Hill, in 1747, is the Banqueting Hall of the Keep, and was the -scene, so some maintain, of the trial of Anne Boleyn, in May, 1536. -Raleigh, in 1601, watched the execution of Essex from one of its western -windows. A mounted figure of Queen Elizabeth, dressed as on the occasion -of her progress to St. Paul’s Cathedral to render thanks for the -destruction of the Armada, has been removed from this room to a dark -corner of the crypt of St. John’s Chapel; its place is taken by an -illuminated show-case in which the Coronation robes of the reigning -sovereign are displayed. Models of the instruments of torture--the rack, -thumb-screws, scavenger’s daughter, iron neck-collar, and so forth--are -shown in this room, reminding us that though torture was never legal -punishment in England, it was practised in Tower dungeons, especially in -Tudor times, when, in the wisdom of those in power, occasion demanded -it. But the whole business is too despicable to dwell upon. - -A continuation of the winding stairway in the south-west angle of the -wall gives access to the upper floor and ancient Council Chamber, which -is the room entered first. Here Richard II. abdicated in favour of -Henry IV. Froissart, describing the ceremony, says, “King Richard was -released from his prison and entered the hall which had been prepared -for the occasion, royally dressed, the sceptre in his hand and the crown -on his head, but without supporters on either side.” He said, after -raising the crown from his head and placing it before him, “Henry, fair -cousin, and Duke of Lancaster, I present and give to you this crown with -which I was crowned King of England, and all the rights dependent on -it.” When all was over and Henry “had called in a public notary that an -authentic act should be drawn up of the proceedings,” Richard was led -back “to where he had come from, and the Duke and other lords mounted -their horses to return home.” It was in this Council Chamber of the -White Tower, also, that Richard III. enacted that dramatic scene on -which the curtain fell with the death of Hastings, the Lord Chamberlain. -The lords were seated at council when Richard entered the broad, low -room in anger, and exclaimed, to their astonishment, “What are they -worthy to have that compass and imagine my destruction?” The lords, sore -amazed at this, sat dumb, and none dared speak lest he be accused. Then -the irate Richard bared his withered arm and called on all to look what -sorcery had done. His protestation had, however, been somewhat -overacted, and his lords in the Chamber of Council saw that he was but -in a fit of spleen and hasty to pick a quarrel with any. Still, Lord -Hastings took courage to stand and reply, “If any have so heinously -done, they are worthy of heinous punishment.” “What!” said Richard, -starting up; “thou servest me ill, I ween, with ‘ifs.’ I tell thee they -have so done, and that I will make good on thy body, traitor.” In great -anger he strode to a table and hit it heavily with his clenched fist. At -this signal a great number of armed men, who had been cunningly hid in -the stone passage that lay within the thickness of the wall, entered the -room and blocked the doorways. Richard, coming into the centre of the -chamber and pointing to Hastings, exclaimed, “I arrest thee, traitor!” -“What, me, my lord?” replied the Chamberlain. “Yea, thee, traitor.” And -Hastings being seized and made prisoner, “I will not to dinner,” -continued his accuser, “till I see thy head off.” Without time to say a -word on his own behalf, Lord Hastings, in order that the repast of -Richard should not be unduly delayed, was hurried down the narrow, -winding stairway in the north-east turret of the White Tower and led -out upon what is now the parade ground, below. It is told that the way -to the block on Tower Green near by was greatly obstructed by stones and -much timber then being used in rebuilding houses within the Tower walls. -Richard was watching with impatience, from a window in the Council -Chamber, the progress of his victim to death, and, in order to avoid -delay, Hastings was compelled by his captors to lay his head on a rough -log of wood that blocked the path. So was he brought to the axe ere -Richard, satisfied, and himself again, went to dine. - -The crypt of St. John’s Chapel (which, with the dungeons, is shown only -to those who have obtained an order and are accompanied by a special -warder), a very dark place before the comparatively modern windows were -put in, was used as a prison cell, and here were confined those captured -in the Wyatt rebellion. Prisoners’ inscriptions may still be seen on the -wall on either side of the smaller dungeon, erroneously termed -“Raleigh’s Cell.” This grim chamber, hollowed out of the wall of the -crypt, would, when the door was shut and all light of day excluded, have -been the most unwelcome hole for any human being to linger in. To assert -that Raleigh sat and wrote here, by rushlight, is drawing too heavily on -our credulity. Even “that beast Waad” would not have put his famous -prisoner into such a place of darkness. The crypt has a remarkable -barrel-shaped roof, the stones of which are most cunningly set together. -The walls are of amazing thickness, as may be seen by the depth of the -window recesses. Some few years ago a quantity of stained glass was -found in this crypt; some of it of sixteenth-century date, the remainder -modern and of little value. Fragments of this glass have been put -together with care and skill and placed in the small windows of the -Chapel of St. John, above. - -The larger dungeons of the Keep are entered beneath the stairway that -leads to the parade-ground from the level of the crypt we have just -visited. These lower places of confinement have been sadly modernised, -white-washed, and have all the appearance of respectable wine-cellars, -lit by electric light. In these once gloomy chambers, deep down below -the level of the ground, stood the rack; the cries of victims would not -be heard beyond the massive walls. This instrument of torture was an -open frame of solid oak about three feet high. The prisoner was laid -within it, on the bare ground, his wrists and ankles being tied to -rollers at each extremity. By means of levers these rollers were moved -in opposite directions and the body of the prisoner was thereby raised -to the level of the frame. While his body was thus suspended he was -questioned, and if his replies came tardily a turn or two of the -rollers, which threatened to pull his joints from their sockets, was -considered necessary to extract from the sufferer any information -desired. In this place, and in this way, Guy Fawkes was racked after -Gunpowder Plot, and, between the periods of torture, was confined in a -small cell called Little Ease, which was constructed so skilfully that -the captive could neither lie down nor stand up with any satisfaction, -but was compelled to exist there in a cramped and stooping posture. This -miserable cell lay between the dungeon containing the rack and the great -dungeon under the crypt of St. John’s Chapel. Though the formidable -iron-studded door of Little Ease, with its ingenious system of locks and -bolts, is still to be seen, the cell itself has been broken through to -give entrance to the black vault beyond. Yet even to-day, in spite of -foolish “improvements,” some idea of the power of Little Ease to -administer suffering can be gained. In this, at one time, circumscribed -space, Guy Fawkes spent his last weeks, with no fresh air to breathe and -no glimmer of light to cheer. The gloomy dungeon, to which Little Ease -now gives access, under St. John’s crypt, was the foulest and blackest -of all the Tower cells. Even now it is a place of horror, though an -attempt has been made to enlarge the single window, high up on the -eastern side, and admit a little more light. Hundreds of Jews were shut -up here in King John’s time, charged, as has already been stated in the -previous chapter, with tampering with the coinage of the realm. No light -of any kind entered the place in those days, the earthen floor was -carefully kept damp for greater inconvenience, the air was poisonous, -and the place was at all times infested with rats. This cell rivals in -horror the Black Hole of Calcutta, and in it men were, to use a -Meredithian expression, chilled in subterranean sunlessness. In the -basement chambers, to the west of this dungeon and of the torture -chamber, a well has, within recent years, been discovered, together with -a secret passage leading towards the moat and the river. In connection -with the discovery of this passage it is stated that a grated cell had -been found in which the waters of the Thames flowed and receded with the -tide. It is possible that some poor sufferer may have been put, for a -time, in this place of horror, but we may be thankful that, as no -details have survived time’s ravages, it is not necessary for us to -demand definite information on the subject. There are certain corners of -Tower history that are better left unexplored. The dungeons of the White -Tower might conceivably have been left in something of their original -state. The “modernisation” they have undergone has robbed them of all -appearance of age. They have the look (with the exception of the Jews’ -dungeon) of store cellars constructed last week. Utility has done its -best to kill romance. - -_Tower Green._--Beneath the western wall of the White Tower there is -massed together, and now railed in, a curious collection of old guns and -mortars, mostly trophies won from France, Spain and Portugal. Some are -early examples of English cannon found in the _Mary Rose_, wrecked off -Spithead in 1545. Two solemn ravens hover about these old guns day by -day, and perch at times, with significant gravity, on the site of the -block near by. Tower Green was the place of private, as Tower Hill was -the place of public, execution, and was reserved for culprits of Royal -rank. This open space in the centre of the buildings saw prisoners led -from cell to cell, saw many a headless body carried on rude stretcher to -burial - -[Illustration: THE KING’S HOUSE FROM TOWER GREEN] - -in St. Peter’s, and was the place of revels on far-off coronation eves -when the King of the morrow was feasting in the Keep above or in the -Palace. It saw, also, the last sad moments of three Queens of England. -In the far corner, towards the Bloody Tower, lay the Constable’s Garden -in which Raleigh walked, and in which the proud Princess Elizabeth had -paced along the paths that her favourite of later days had been sent by -the prouder Queen to tread. Farther westward, and marked by a sentry-box -at the door, is the King’s House, in which lives the present Major of -the Tower. It was from this house that Lord Nithsdale escaped, on the -eve of his execution, in 1716. His wife, who had ridden in bitter, -wintry weather from Scotland in order to make appeal to King George on -her husband’s behalf, found only disappointment as a result of the -appeal to royal clemency. But she was not to be daunted by her rebuff at -Court. Though the attempt seemed quite a hopeless one, she was -determined to make all effort possible to save her lord from the -scaffold. From her lodgings in Drury Lane she walked to the Tower, -accompanied by her landlady, Mrs. Mills, and a friend, Mrs. Morgan. Mrs. -Morgan consented to wear a dress belonging to Mrs. Mills above her own -dress, and Lady Nithsdale proposed to get her husband away from the -Tower disguised in this extra dress. When she reached the King’s House -she was allowed to take in with her only one friend at a time, and so -brought in Mrs. Morgan, who had, she explained, come to bid Lord -Nithsdale farewell. When the custodian of the prison room had retired, -Lord Nithsdale was hastily dressed in the spare set of female garments -and Mrs. Morgan was sent out to bring in “her maid, Evans.” Mrs. Mills -came upstairs in answer to the call, and held a handkerchief to her face -“as was natural,” wrote Lady Nithsdale when describing the events -afterwards, “for a person going to take a last leave of a friend before -execution. I desired her to do this that my lord might go out in the -same manner. Her eyebrows were inclined to be sandy, and as my lord’s -were dark and thick, I had prepared some paint to disguise him. I had -also got an artificial head-dress of the same coloured hair as hers, and -rouged his face and cheeks, to conceal his beard which he had not had -time to shave. All this provision I had before left in the Tower. I made -Mrs. Mills take off her own hood and put on that which I had brought for -her. I then took her by the hand and led her out of my lord’s chamber. -In passing through the next room, in which were several people, with all -the concern imaginable, I said, ‘My dear Mrs. Catherine, go in all haste -and send me my waiting-maid; she certainly cannot reflect how late it -is. I am to present my petition to-night; to-morrow it is too late. -Hasten her as much as possible, for I shall be on thorns till she -comes.’... When I had seen her safe out I returned to my lord and -finished dressing him. I had taken care that Mrs. Mills did not go out -crying, as she came in, that my lord might better pass for the lady who -came in crying and afflicted; and the more so that as he had the same -dress that she wore. When I had almost finished dressing my lord, I -perceived it was growing dark, and was afraid that the light of the -candle might betray us, so I resolved to set off. I went out leading him -by the hand, whilst he held his handkerchief to his eyes. I spoke to him -in the most piteous and afflicted tone, bewailing the negligence of my -maid Evans, who had ruined me by her delay. Then I said, ‘My dear Mrs. -Betty ... run quickly and bring her with you. I am almost distracted -with this disappointment.’ The guards opened the door, and I went -downstairs with him, still conjuring him to make all possible despatch. -As soon as he had cleared the door, I made him walk before me, for fear -the sentinel should take notice of his walk. At the bottom of the stairs -I met my dear Evans, into whose hands I confided him.” Lord Nithsdale, -now safely out of the walls and on Tower Hill, was hurried to a -convenient lodging in the City. Lady Nithsdale, having sent “her maid -Betty” off, returned to her lord’s room, and, alone there, pretended to -converse with her husband, imitating his voice so well that no -suspicions were aroused. She continues her narrative thus: “I then -thought proper to make off also. I opened the door and stood half at it, -that those in the outward chamber might hear what I said, but held it so -close that they could not look in. I bade my lord formal farewell for -the night, and added that something more than usual must have happened -to make Evans negligent, on this important occasion, who had always been -so punctual in the smallest trifles; that I saw no other remedy but to -go in person; that if the Tower was then open, when I had finished my -business, I would return that night; but that he might be assured I -would be with him as early in the morning as I could gain admittance to -the Tower, and I flattered myself I should bring more favourable news. -Then, before I shut the door, I pulled through the string of the latch, -so that it could only be opened on the inside.” On her way out Lady -Nithsdale told one of the servants that candles need not be taken in to -his master “until he sent for them,” and so left the King’s House, -crossed Tower Green in the dusk of the evening, and was soon safely in -London streets. Lord Nithsdale eventually escaped, disguised as a -footman, in the suite of the Venetian Ambassador, from Dover. Lady -Nithsdale bravely returned to Dumfriesshire, and, at great risk, for -“the King was great insensed at the trick she had played,” recovered -valuable papers buried in a garden there, then joined her husband in -Rome. By her splendid intrepidity she had saved her lord from the -scaffold on the very eve of execution, had baffled the King’s -emissaries, and altogether gave King George cause to complain that she -had given him more trouble than “any other woman in the whole of -Europe.” - -_Beauchamp Tower._--This tower lies in the centre of the western Ballium -Wall, and is entered at the foot of a flight of steps leading down from -the level of the Green. A narrow winding stairway, which is typical of -the means of ingress and egress in all the lesser towers on the walls, -brings us to the large prison-chamber of this tower, the only portion -shown to the public. In Tudor days the Beauchamp Tower was set aside -specially as the place of detention of captives of high estate in the -realm. It is the least gloomy of the towers. It must at all times have -had a good supply of light, if we may judge by the delicacy of the -inscriptions and carvings that those imprisoned there have left upon its -walls. On entering the prison-room an inscription bearing the word -“Peveril” will be seen on the wall to the left. This caught the eye of -Sir Walter Scott when visiting the Tower, and suggested the title for -the then unwritten novel, the scenes of which are laid in the time of -Charles II. In that book a description is given, in chapter xl, of the -King’s visit to the fortress. “In the meantime the royal barge paused at -the Tower; and, accompanied by a laughing train of ladies and of -courtiers, the gay monarch made the echoes of the old prison-towers ring -with the unwonted sounds of mirth and revelry.... Charles, who often -formed manly and sensible resolutions, though he was too easily diverted -from them by indolence or pleasure, had some desire to make himself -personally acquainted with the state of the military stores, arms, etc., -of which the Tower was then, as now, the magazine.... The King, -accompanied by the Dukes of Buckingham, Ormond, and one or two others, -walked through the well-known hall [in the White Tower] in which is -preserved the most splendid magazine of arms in the world, and which, -though far from exhibiting its present extraordinary state of -perfection, was even then an arsenal worthy of the great nation to which -it belonged.” In the same chapter the Tower legend of the King’s -discovery of Coleby (who had helped the King at Worcester fight) as a -warder in the Tower is told. Sir Walter adds a footnote to the tale: -“The affecting circumstances are, I believe, recorded in one of the -little manuals which are put into the hands of visitors.” In this room -of the Beauchamp Tower, Nigel, Lord Glenvarloch, is imprisoned as -narrated in _The Fortunes of Nigel_, which pictures earlier days--the -times of James I. Nigel “followed the lieutenant to the ancient -buildings on the western side of the parade, and adjoining to the -chapel, used in those days as a State prison, but in ours [this was -written in 1822] as the mess-room of the officers of the guard upon duty -at the fortress. The double doors were unlocked, the prisoner ascended a -few steps, followed by the lieutenant and a warder of the higher class. -They entered a large, but irregular, low-roofed and dark apartment, -exhibiting a very scanty proportion of furniture.... The lieutenant, -having made his reverence with the customary compliment that ‘He trusted -his lordship would not long remain under his guardianship,’ took his -leave.... Nigel proceeded to amuse himself with the melancholy task of -deciphering the names, mottoes, verses and hieroglyphics with which his -predecessors in captivity had covered the walls of their prison-house. -There he saw the names of many forgotten sufferers mingled with others -which will continue in remembrance until English history shall perish. -There were the pious effusions of the devout Catholic, poured forth on -the eve of his sealing his profession at Tyburn, mingled with those of -the firm Protestant about to feed the fires of Smithfield.... It was -like the roll of the prophet, a record of lamentation and mourning, and -yet not unmixed with brief interjections of resignation, and sentences -expressive of the firmest resolution.” There are ninety-one names on the -walls of this room in the Beauchamp Tower, and the earliest date, 1462, -is cut beside the name of Talbot. Other notable inscriptions are those -of the Pole family (No. 33), of which two members died in - -[Illustration: PRINCIPAL ROOM, FOR STATE PRISONERS, IN THE BEAUCHAMP -TOWER] - -captivity here; the Dudley carving (No. 14), consisting of a frame made -up of a garland of roses, geraniums, honeysuckle, and oak leaves. Within -are a bear and lion supporting a ragged staff, which is the Dudley -crest. Beneath is the name of the carver, John Dudley--the eldest of -five Dudley brothers imprisoned in this chamber. This John, Earl of -Warwick, died here, a prisoner. The Bailly inscription (No. 17) dates -from Elizabeth’s reign, and was carved by Charles Bailly, involved in -plots to liberate Mary Queen of Scots after her coming to England. He -has carved these words on the stone: “Wise men ought circumspectly to -see what they do, to examine before they speake, to prove before they -take in hand, to beware whose company they use, and, above all things, -to whom they truste.” The Earl of Arundel, one of the devout Catholics -mentioned by Scott, died, in this room, after ten years’ imprisonment in -the Tower. His inscription is in Latin, and dated June 22, 1587. The -words may be translated, “The more suffering for Christ in this world, -the more will be the glory with Christ in the next. Thou hast crowned -him with honour and glory, O Lord! In memory everlasting he will be -just.” Another carving (No. 26), of April 22, 1559, concludes thus: -“There is an end of all things, and the ende of a thing is better than -the beginin. Be wyse and pacyente in troble, for wysdom defends the as -well as mony. Use well the tyme of prosperite, ande remember the tyme of -misfortewn.” This inscription bears some resemblance to another of -Bailly’s (No. 51), where he has recorded on his prison wall that, “The -most unhapy man in the world is he that is not pacient in adversities; -for men are not killed with the adversities they have, but with the -impacience which they suffer.... Hope to the end and have pacience.” If -any were in need of patience and of hope they were these poor prisoners -in the Beauchamp Tower. Another captive, T. Salmon, in 1622 recorded -that he had been kept “close prisoner here, 8 months, 32 weeks, 224 -days, 5,376 hours.” The husband of Lady Jane Grey carved on these walls -(No. 85) the one word “Jane,” and this in its simplicity is the saddest -of all the writings on the wall. This tower, which was restored by -Salvin in 1854, still retains an original Edward III. window and much -other ancient work; its name is derived from the Thomas Beauchamp, Earl -of Warwick, imprisoned towards the end of the fourteenth century. During -the time of the Wyatt rebellion it appears to have been known as the -Cobham Tower, but that name did not adhere to it long. It consists of -three floors, the main prison-room being on the second storey, and -possesses a battlemented roof. In this tower a secret passage has been -discovered, in the wall, where spies could hover and overhear the talk -of prisoners. To the north of it, and opposite the Chapel, stands the -Chaplain’s House, and that portion of Tower Green immediately adjoining -was at one period a burial-ground for “Tower parishioners.” - -_Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula._--The crypt of the present chapel was -built in the reign of Henry III.; all that stands above it is of the -Tudor period. In 1867 it received its last careful restoration, but -apart from its tragic associations it is not a very inspiring bit of -ecclesiastical architecture. There is a peculiar stiffness about the -building and an oppressive gloom in the place that makes one regard it -rather as a large tomb than as a church for living men and women to -worship in. Strangely enough, one has none of this feeling when visiting -the Chapel of St. John in the White Tower, which is a place that never -fails to lead the thoughts to another world than this. In St. Peter’s -one is haunted by generations of spectres who have passed from life to -death by violent means, and one has also the fear that Macaulay is -lingering in some corner and moralising on the pathos of it all. Under -the pavement of this church, as was discovered at the 1876 restoration, -the victims from the scaffold, of royal blood or otherwise, were very -hastily and carelessly interred, at no great depth. The bones of Queen -Anne Boleyn were identified and now lie in front of the altar with those -of Queen Katherine Howard, and the Dukes of Northumberland and Somerset. -Mr. Doyne Bell, describing the discovery of the remains of Anne Boleyn, -says, “The forehead and lower jaw were small and especially well formed. -The vertebræ were particularly small, especially one joint, which was -that next to the skull, and they bore witness to the Queen’s ‘lyttel -neck.’” The skeletons of the aged Countess of Salisbury and of the Duke -of Monmouth were also found. A list of the notable people buried in this -church will be seen on the west wall near the door, and here, too, are -preserved portions of the leaden coffin lids of the Scots lords who were -the last victims of the block on Tower Hill. Several very interesting -memorials of those famous in Tower annals will be noticed on the east -and south walls near the chancel. The elaborate tomb to the left, within -the altar rails, is erected in memory of Sir Richard Blount and of Sir - -[Illustration: CHAPLAIN’S HOUSE, AND ENTRANCE TO CHURCH OF ST. PETER AD -VINCULA, TOWER GREEN] - -Michael, his son, both Lieutenants of the Tower in their time. These -Blounts died in the middle of the sixteenth century. In the body of the -church Sir Thomas More and Bishop Fisher, Protector Somerset and Thomas -Cromwell, Strafford and Sir John Eliot, lie buried. One of the earliest -monuments in the building is that lying between the organ and chancel, -commemorating Sir Richard Cholmondeley and his wife Elizabeth. The -recumbent figures are carved in alabaster. Neither the knight nor his -lady was buried in the church. Sir Richard held the position of -Lieutenant of the Tower in Henry VII.’s reign. Lord de Ros, the last -Deputy-Lieutenant of the Tower, and author of a valuable record of its -history, who died in 1874, has a memorial here. It was owing to his care -that the tombstone covering the grave of Talbot Edwards, so nearly -killed when defending the Crown Jewels at the time of the Colonel Blood -onslaught, was replaced. This slab had been doing duty as a paving-stone -on Tower Green. The Communion Plate of St. Peter’s dates from the time -of the first Charles, and the vessels bear the royal monogram, C.R., -with crown above. They have been used by many a condemned captive just -before the hour appointed for death. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A WALK ROUND THE TOWER - - These manacles upon my arm - I, as my mistress’ favours, wear; - And for to keep my ancles warm, - I have some iron shackles there; - These walls are but my garrison; this cell, - Which men call jail, doth prove my citadel. - _Old Ballad._ - - -On leaving the Tower gateway we turn into the gardens on the right and -walk along the pathway that lies beneath Tower Hill and above the moat. -An excellent view is to be obtained from these gardens of the outer -defences of the Tower. The western front exhibits a striking mass of -buildings of various age and colour. At first glance we might imagine we -were looking upon a bit of sixteenth-century Nuremberg. We would not be -at all surprised to see Hans Sachs, Veit Pogner, or Sixtus Beckmesser -look out from the windows above the Ballium Wall. Below lie the -Casemates or outer defences, running, on this western side, from the -Byward Tower to Legge’s Mount, named, it is conjectured, after George -Legge, Earl of Dartmouth, who had charge of the battery in the -seventeenth century. The Outward Wall was put up by Henry III. - -_The Devereux Tower._--This tower stands at the north-west angle of the -Ballium Wall, above Legge’s Mount battery. Robert Devereux, Earl of -Essex, and friend of Shakespeare, was a prisoner here in Elizabeth’s -reign, hence the name; but in earlier days it was known as Robyn the -Devyll’s, or Develin Tower. It is so termed in the 1597 plan reproduced -at the end of this book. The lower and older portion of the tower dates -back to the time of Richard I.; the upper portions are modern -restorations of what had existed previously, but the arrow-slits, which -formerly pierced the walls and admitted so little light to the interior -of one of the gloomiest towers in the fortress, are now widened to -windows. The walls are eleven feet thick, and a small staircase leads -from the tower to cells lying within the thickness of the Ballium Wall. -The lower floor contains an old kitchen with finely vaulted ceiling; -beneath this there is a forbidding dungeon, and underground passages at -one time led thence to the vaults of St. Peter’s Church. But the secret -subways are now sealed up and their existence probably forgotten. - -_Flint, Bowyer, and Brick Towers._--These towers lie along the northern -section of the Inner Wall and are protected by the Outer Wall, and also -by the comparatively modern North Bastion which projects into the ditch -and is pierced for successive tiers, containing five guns each. The -Flint Tower is next in order after the Devereux, and lies some ninety -feet away. An older tower on this site, known as Little Hell because of -its evil reputation as a prison, had fallen partly to ruin in 1796 and -was demolished; the present tower was set up in its place, and, though -used as a prison for a few years after the rebuilding, has practically -no history as it now stands. The Bowyer Tower, next in order eastwards, -was the place of confinement of the luckless Duke of Clarence, who -suffered a mysterious death in 1478. The lower portions of the structure -date back to Edward III.; all above is of more recent date. This tower -had always an evil reputation. “One of the most terrible cells of the -fortress,” one authority states, “is to be found in the Bowyer Tower, -where there is a - -[Illustration: PART OF A BASTION OF OLD LONDON WALL, WITH CLOCK TOWER OF -THE WHITE TOWER] - -ghastly hole with a trap-door, opening upon a flight of steps.” From -these steps a secret passage led through a small cell to a farther cell -in the body of the Ballium Wall. It is possible that Scott had this -tower in mind when describing the dungeon and secret passages and doors -in the thirteenth chapter of the _Legend of Montrose_. The account of -the one resembles very closely what we know of the other. The bowmaker -lived and followed his trade within this tower, and it is named after -that master craftsman, whose workshop was a busy place in the days -before the bullet had ousted the arrow. The Brick Tower is chiefly of -interest as having been the place to which Raleigh was moved during his -first and third imprisonments. When it was found necessary to keep him -in closer captivity than had been imposed on him in the Garden House and -Bloody Tower, he was brought to the Brick Tower, and not to the cell in -St. John’s crypt, as tradition has led many to believe. Lord Grey de -Wilton died here, during his captivity, in 1617; here, also, Sir William -Coventry was confined for a time in Charles II.’s time. Pepys, on his -visit to Sir William, found “abundance of company with him,” and sixty -coaches stood outside Tower gates “that had brought them thither.” - -_The Martin Tower._--This is the most famous of the lesser towers, and -is also known as the old Jewel House. It, too, in part is ancient, but -the building set up by Henry III. was tampered with by Wren, and has, in -consequence, a somewhat patchy appearance to-day. The tower stands at -the north-east corner of the Inner Wall, and beneath it lies Brass Mount -battery. It is best seen from the point where we leave the public -gardens and go on to the level of the Tower Bridge Approach. From this -recently constructed roadway a good general view of the Tower buildings -on the eastern side is obtained. But we will pause here on our walk to -consider two memorable events in the history of the Martin Tower. - -In May, 1671, that audacious rascal, Colonel Blood, “whose spirit toiled -in framing the most daring enterprises,” after having failed to “seize -his ancient enemy, the Duke of Ormond, in the streets of London,” -bethought him of a plan to seize and carry away the Crown Jewels of -England, then kept in the Martin Tower. It was soon after the -appointment of Sir Gilbert Talbot as Master, or Keeper, of the Jewels -that the regalia had been opened to public inspection, and an old -servant of Sir Gilbert’s, Talbot Edwards, was in immediate charge of the -room in which the gems lay. Blood had been making one or two visits, in -various disguises, to the Jewel-room during the last weeks of April of -the year mentioned (the date is sometimes given as 1673, but Evelyn -mentions the affair, in his _Diary_, under May 10, 1671), in order to -make sure of his ground and to devise plans of safe retreat. Blood, in -guise of a clergyman, and addressed as Parson Blood, had been invited to -dine with Edwards and his wife and daughter. “You have,” said the -cassocked Colonel, “a pretty young gentlewoman for your daughter, and I -have a young nephew, who has two or three hundred a year in land, and is -at my disposal. If your daughter be free, and you approve it, I’ll bring -him here to see her, and we will endeavour to make it a match.” The day -that he had chosen to introduce his nephew was the day on which he was -to make his own attempt to steal more than a maiden’s heart. At the time -appointed, Parson Blood returned “with three more, all armed with -rapier-canes and every one a dagger and a brace of pocket-pistols.” -Blood and two of his associates “went in to see the crown,” and the -pretended “nephew” remained at the door as sentinel. Miss Edwards, with -maidenly modesty, forbore to come down and meet her wooer, yet curiosity -impelled her to send a waiting-maid to inspect the company and report as -to the appearance of her lover. The maid, having seen whom she took to -be the intended bridegroom standing at the door of the Jewel-room, -returned to her mistress and analysed the impression of the young man -which she had formed, with womanly intuition, by a single glance. -Meanwhile, it was not love but war below. Old Talbot Edwards had been -gagged and nearly strangled by Blood and his men, but not before he had -made as much noise as possible in order to raise an alarm. The young -women upstairs were much too interested in Cupid’s affairs to hear the -cries from the Jewel chamber. Edwards received several blows on the head -with a mallet in order that his shouts might be silenced. He fell to the -ground and was left there as dead, while the ruffians were busily -despoiling the jewel case of its more precious contents. Blood, as chief -conspirator, secured the crown and hid it under his cloak; his trusty -Parrot secreted the orb; and the third villain proceeded to file the -sceptre in order to get it into a small bag. At that moment a dramatic -event upset their calculations. One can almost hear the chord in the -orchestra and imagine that a transpontine melodrama was being witnessed, -when told that there stepped upon the scene, at this juncture, a son of -Talbot Edwards who had just returned from Flanders. Young Edwards, on -entering his own house, was surprised by the sentinel at the door asking -him what his business might be. He ran upstairs, in some amazement, to -see his father, mother, and sister, and ask the meaning of this demand. -Blood and his precious suite of booty-snatchers received the alarm from -the doorkeeper, and the interesting party made off as quickly as they -could with cloaks, bags, pockets, and hands full of Crown jewellery, the -property of His Majesty King Charles and the English nation. Old Edwards -had now recovered his powers of speech, and, working the gag out of his -mouth, rose up to shout “Treason! Murder!” and so forth. This was heard -by those above who had been welcoming young Edwards’ unexpected return. -All were now active, and young Edwards, assisted by some warders, gave -chase to the rapidly retreating regalia. The Blood contingent had -already reached the Byward Tower and were making for the outer gateway -when some of the King’s jewels were dropped in order to lighten the -burdens of those who ran. But the Colonel still hugged the crown. They -were soon out on Tower Wharf and making for St. Catherine’s Gate (where -the northern end of Tower Bridge now stands). Here horses awaited them, -and here they were aware that shouts of “Stop the rogues!” were -proceeding from an excited body of men rushing towards them from the -western end of the Wharf. The gallant Colonel did not resign the crown -without a struggle, during which several of the jewels, including the -Great Pearl and a large diamond, with which it was set, rolled out upon -the ground and were for a time lost, but subsequently recovered. Parrot -was found with portions of royal sceptre in various linings and pockets, -and a valuable ruby had been successfully conjured away. When Blood and -his three tragic comedians had been made prisoners, young Edwards -hastened back into the Tower and acquainted Sir Gilbert Talbot with the -alarming news. Sir Gilbert stamped and swore a round oath or two and -hurried to the King to give him an account of the escapade. Charles -commanded the prisoners to be brought before him at Whitehall, and the -Merry Monarch endowed Blood with a pension of £500 a year. The second -Charles evidently admired a man of daring. - -The Seven Bishops were confined--huddled together would be the more -literal term--in the Martin Tower, during the troublous days of James -II., for refusing to subscribe to the Declaration of Indulgence. “A -warrant was issued for their committal to the Tower,” we are told by Dr. -Luckock in his _Bishops in the Tower_, and “the spectacle of the 8th of -June [1688] has had no parallel in the annals of history. It has often -been painted, and in vivid colours, but no adequate description can ever -be given of a scene that was unique.” As the barge containing the -Bishops was pushed off from Whitehall Steps, “men and women rushed into -the water and the people ran along the banks cheering with the wildest -enthusiasm, and crying, ‘God bless the Bishops!’ When they reached the -Traitor’s Gate and passed into the Tower, the soldiers on guard, -officers as well as men, fell on their knees and begged for a blessing. -It was evening when they arrived, and they asked for permission to -attend the service in the chapel [of St. Peter]; and the Lesson for the -day, by a happy coincidence, was one well calculated to inspire them -with courage: ‘In all things approving ourselves as the ministers of -God, in much patience, in afflictions, in necessities, in distresses, in -strifes, in imprisonments.’ ... The enthusiasm was continued long after -the ponderous gates of the Tower had closed upon them. The soldiers of -the garrison drank to the health of the Bishops at their mess, and -nothing could stop them from such a manifestation of their sympathy.” -The Bishops were in the Martin Tower until June 15, when they returned -by water from the Wharf and were taken to the Court of King’s Bench. -They were tried on June 29. When Sir Robert Langley, foreman of the -jury, declared that the prisoners were found “not guilty” the scene -again became one of the wildest joy and excitement. “The released -Bishops, hearing the bells of a neighbouring church, escaped from the -crowd to join in the service, and, by a second coincidence, more -striking even than the first, the Lesson that they heard was the story -of St. Peter’s miraculous deliverance from prison.” - -_The Constable, Broad Arrow, and Salt Towers._--These small towers -stand on the line of the eastern wall of the Inner Ward and face the -Tower Bridge roadway. In the first named the Constable of the Tower -lived in Henry VIII.’s reign; in the time of Charles I. it was used as a -prison. Its rooms and dungeons resemble those of the Beauchamp Tower, -but are on a smaller scale. The Broad Arrow Tower never lacked prisoners -during the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth, and the room on the first floor -has some inscriptions left by captives; these writings on the stone have -been so repeatedly covered with whitewash that they are now somewhat -difficult to decipher. In 1830 a list of the inscriptions was made, and -we find in it the following names and dates: “John Daniell, 1556,” a -prisoner concerned in a plot to rob the Exchequer in Mary’s reign, and -hanged on Tower Hill; “Thomas Forde, 1582,” a priest executed “for -refusing to assent to the supremacy of Queen Elizabeth in the Church”; -“John Stoughton, 1586,” and “J. Gage, 1591,” both priests. At the top of -this tower, near the doorway giving access to the Inner Wall, is a -narrow cell, with only a small aperture to admit light, which rivals -Little Ease in sparsity of accommodation. Behind the Constable and Broad -Arrow Towers are the Officers’ Quarters of the garrison, occupying -ground on which stood, until the reign of James II., an old building -known as the King’s Private Wardrobe, connected with the now vanished -Royal Palace. South-west of the Broad Arrow Tower lay the Queen’s -Garden. - -_The Salt, Cradle, and Lanthorn Towers._--The Salt Tower, standing at -the south-east corner of the Ballium wall, is one of the oldest portions -of all the buildings, and dates back to the time of William Rufus. It -possesses a spacious dungeon, with vaulted ceiling, a finely carved -chimney-piece in one of the upper rooms, and in a prison chamber the -inscription of “Hew: Draper, 1561”--the memento of a sixteenth-century -magician--is cut on the wall. The Salt and Cradle Towers were the scene -of an escape of two prisoners in Elizabeth’s reign--Father Gerard and -John Arden. - -Gerard had been put in the Salt Tower for the part he is said to have -taken in an attempt on the Queen’s life. When examined before a Council -which sat in the room in the King’s House where Guy Fawkes was -afterwards convicted, he refused to give any information that might -involve brother priests. For this he was ordered to be tortured in the -dungeon under the White Tower. In the account which he himself wrote of -the proceedings - -[Illustration: EAST END OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, FROM -BROAD ARROW TOWER] - -we are told that he and his guards “went in solemn procession, the -attendants preceding us with lighted candles because the place was -underground and very dark, especially about the entrance. It was a place -of immense extent, and in it were ranged divers sorts of racks, and -other instruments of torture. Some of these they displayed before me and -told me I should have to taste them.” Gerard was led to “a great upright -beam, or pillar of wood” in the centre of the torture chamber, and there -hung up by his hands, which were placed in iron shackles attached to an -iron rod fixed in the pillar. The stool on which he had stood while this -was being done was taken away from under his feet and the whole weight -of his body was supported by his wrists, clasped in the gauntlets. As he -was a tall, stout man his sufferings must have been terrible indeed. -While he hung thus he was again questioned as to his associates in the -“plot,” but he refused to betray any one. He has left on record his -sensations as he hung against the pillar of torture. “I felt,” he says, -“that all the blood in my body had run into my arms and begun to burst -out at my finger-ends. This was a mistake, but the arms swelled until -the gauntlets were buried in the flesh. After being thus suspended for -an hour I fainted; when I came to myself I found the executioners -supporting me in their arms.” They had replaced the stool under his -feet, and poured vinegar down his throat; but as soon as he recovered -consciousness the stool was withdrawn and Gerard allowed to remain -hanging in agony for five hours longer, during which he fainted eight or -nine times. For three days he was put to this torture on the pillar, and -Sir William Waad, then Lieutenant of the Tower, exasperated at the -victim’s fortitude, exclaimed at last, “Hang there till you rot!” and he -was left hanging till his arms were paralysed. Each evening the victim, -“half dead with pain, and scarce able to crawl,” was taken back to his -cell in the Salt Tower. A few days later Gerard was again brought before -the Council, and again refused to compromise others. Waad thereupon -delivered him to the charge of the chief of the torturers--a dread -official indeed--with the injunction, “You are to rack him twice a day -until such time as he chooses to confess.” Once more he was led down -into the dungeon beneath the White Tower and strapped up to the pillar -as before, his swollen arms and wrists being forced into the iron bands -which could now scarce go round them. Still he refused to give the name -of a single friend, and Waad saw the futility of torturing him to death. -Gerard was locked up in the Salt Tower again and lay on the floor of his -chamber with maimed arms, wrists, and hands, terrible to look upon. Yet -he remained firm, and the pains of the body could not, it seemed, affect -his spirit. It happened that in the Cradle Tower, standing to the -south-west of the Salt Tower, on the outer wall and close by the Wharf, -another Roman Catholic prisoner, John Arden, was kept in confinement. -Gerard, when sufficiently recovered to be able to walk about again, -obtained leave of his jailor to visit Arden. Together they planned -escape. They wrote to friends in the City with orange juice, which -writing was invisible unless subjected to a certain treatment whereby it -became legible. Gerard, by the help of these friends, secured a long -piece of thick string with a leaden weight attached, and with this came -a written promise that upon a certain night a boat would lie beside the -Wharf just under the Cradle Tower. On the evening of the day appointed -Gerard stayed longer than usual with Arden, but dreading lest at any -moment he should be sent for and taken back to the Salt Tower. But night -came and he was still in the Cradle Tower, looking out anxiously across -the moat towards the riverside. At last the boat approached, and was -moored opposite the tower, from which Arden threw his line, and both -prisoners saw, with joy, that the leaden weight had cleared the moat and -fallen on the Wharf. It was picked up by the boatmen, and a strong rope -was fastened to the cord. This rope Arden hauled up into his cell and -made it fast. Gerard then swarmed down the tightened rope to the Wharf, -suffering acute pain owing to the condition of his arms and wrists. It -was five months after his torture before the sense of touch was restored -to his hands. Arden followed, and both got away safely to the steps -beside London Bridge, where they were met by the friends who had cheered -them in their captivity, and were taken to a place of safety. - -The Cradle Tower is seen best from the Wharf. This broad riverside -embankment constructed by Henry III. makes a delightful promenade. It is -reached from the level of the Tower Bridge approach by descending a -flight of steps on the eastern side of the roadway and passing under the -bridge by the archway at the guard-room. When this arch is passed under, -on the immediate right, beyond the trees, is seen the Galleyman or -Develin - -[Illustration: THE TOWER FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE, LOOKING WEST] - -Tower, and the Well Tower to the left of it The Galleyman, or Galligman -Tower--to give it the name under which it appears in a plan of 1597--was -in former times a powder store and gave access to the “Iron Gate,” now -demolished. It will be noticed that five towers stand closely together -at this corner of the defences. The south-eastern portion of the -fortress had always been considered that most exposed to attack; the -protecting ditch, too, is narrower at this point than elsewhere, hence -the need for additional fortification. Beside the Cradle Tower a modern -drawbridge has been constructed giving access for stores. Within the -outer and inner walls here, lay the Privy Garden, one of the most -peaceful and secluded nooks in the fortress--a place of old-world -flowers and southern sunshine. The Cradle Tower is so named from the -existence there in former times of a “cradle,” or movable bed by means -of which boats could be hoisted from the moat, and, within the grated -doorway in the tower wall, raised on to a dry platform there. The -principal entrance to the Outer Ward lay, in early days, through this -gateway in the Cradle Tower, and prisoners were landed here as well as -through Traitor’s Gate. In 1641 it was described as “Cradle Tower--a -prison lodging.” The round Lanthorn Tower rising above and dwarfing the -Cradle Tower was in Tudor days known as the New Tower, and commanded the -King’s Bedchamber, and the Queen’s Gallery. Towards the end of the -eighteenth century this tower was burnt down, and the walls, from the -lower portions and vaults, were rebuilt. In Henry III.’s reign this -tower was a place of great importance; its chambers were hung with -ornate tapestry, and the inner walls decorated with frescoes. This -tower, being attached to the royal apartments, was never used as a -prison, and so may be said to be happy in having no history of suffering -attached to it. It has been so admirably restored, by Salvin, and again -by Taylor in 1882, that it has lost little of its original appearance. - -From the Wharf the massive St. Thomas’s Tower can be examined more -closely and the outer side of the Traitor’s Gate is open to view. The -guns on the Wharf, near the Byward Tower, are those that are used for -the firing of salutes on days of royal anniversary. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -TOWER HILL - - The garlands wither on your brow; - Then boast no more your mighty deeds; - Upon Death’s purple altar now - See where the victor-victim bleeds: - Your heads must come - To the cold tomb; - Only the actions of the just - Smell sweet, and blossom in their dust. - J. SHIRLEY. - - -The actual spot on which the scaffold was erected on the hill is marked, -in the garden by which it is now surrounded, by a square of stone paving -set in the turf just within the gate on the south-western side of the -enclosure. Happy children skip and play on this blood-stained bit of -ground; the flowers leap up in April and the birds make melody in May; -Nature has healed the sore and done lavishly to make us forget, by her -gifts, that here was the scene of angry mobs crying for the slaughter of -some of the nation’s noblest men. The block was set up on a high wooden -platform so that the ceremony of decapitation was performed well above -the heads of the dense crowd that gathered on the hill when the more -notable Tower prisoners were brought here to die. It is stated that -during the making of the tunnel that goes through Tower Hill to-day the -wooden foundations of the scaffold were discovered, and also, near by, -the remains of two victims whose bodies had been interred there. Neither -the imbedded timber nor the human bones were disturbed, and both still -lie beneath the turf to fix accurately the spot of execution. Tower Hill -seems to have possessed a gallows also, for we find frequent record of -criminals being “hanged in chains” there, either for State or other -offences. Under an oak tree that grew on the slope towards the Tower -gateway, the public stocks stood, and in the vestry minutes of -Allhallows Barking, under the date December 16, 1657, we find it -recorded that an order was given “for the erection of stocks and -whipping-post required by the statute at the churchyard corner in Tower -Street against Mr. Lowe’s, the draper’s, with a convenient shed over -them.” How Mr. Lowe, the draper, took the proposition we are not -informed, but if he expressed his feelings in forcible language he -might, perchance, have met the fate of his neighbour, Mr. Holland, who, -three years previously, on April 26, 1654, “was fined 3s. 4d. by -Alderman Tichbourne for vain oaths sworn” within the parish of -Allhallows. Tower Hill would seem, in those days, to have had a peculiar -attraction for “beggars and common vagrants.” It was a popular resort -for those who lived to beg and those who begged to live--two very -different classes of people, but both equally inconvenient. In the -middle seventeenth century the condition of affairs became serious and -gave alarm both to officials and to the annoyed inhabitants of the -district. In May, 1647, the Vestry of Allhallows “takes into -consideration the destitute condition of the poor, and it is ordered -that a collection for the poor shall be made every second Sabbath in the -month; the churchwardens shall stand at the door ... to receive the -freewill offerings of the parishioners,” and in 1654 the residents -appeal to the Lord Mayor, for “grate, grate, very grate are your -petitioners’ wants, and may it please your Honour to afford them some -relief ... without which they are unable to maintain so great a charge.” -Hither came “a poore starving Frenchman,” who was solaced with 2s.; a -like sum was granted to a “poore Spaniard turned Protestant” and a -“poore Dutch minister.” The dwellers on the side of Tower Hill were -themselves at times reprimanded by the authorities, for we find that in -May, 1653, “Goodman Dawson and his wife” are summoned to appear, -“because they would not let their daughter, aged seventeen, go out to -service: their pension to be stopped as long as they encourage such -indolence,” which seems a just enough proceeding. - -This district suffered severely during the three years after the Great -Fire. Tower Hill lay on the eastern edge of the city of desolation. The -poor proprietor of the Blue Bell tavern, which stood in picturesque -angularities overlooking the hill before the catastrophe which reduced -it, to quote its owner’s words, “to nothing but a ruinous heap of -rubbish,” sought exemption, in 1669, from arrears of lawful dues. These -old inns bordering Tower Hill were the scene of frequent “Parish -dinners,” at which the consumption of food was so considerable as to -lead one to believe that Tower Hill was noted in those days, as it is -to-day, for its fresh air, which sharpens the edge of appetite. These -feeds were partaken of by just as many “men of import in the parish” as -could get into a small - -[Illustration: THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL, SHOWING SITE OF THE SCAFFOLD, -IN THE GARDEN] - -room, “mine host’s best parlour.” On April 26, 1629, they consumed “5 -stone of beefe, 2 legges of mutton, 2 quarters of lamb, 3 capons,” and -so on. A few weeks afterwards they are at it again and “dine upon 5 -ribbs of beef, a side of lamb, 2 legges of mutton, 2 capons; and did -drink wine and beer to the value of £l:7s.” This reminds one of -Falstaff’s feeds in Eastcheap and his capacity for imbibing Canary sack. -At one meal, in _Henry IV._, Shakespeare makes the fat knight, if we go -by the bill presented afterwards, drink sixteen pints of wine! In 1632 -sack was sold in the City at 9d. per quart, claret at 5d., and Malmsey -and muscadine at 8d. - -In Queen Anne’s reign Tower Hill is described as “an open and spacious -place, set with trees, extending round the west and north parts of the -Tower, where there are many good new buildings, mostly inhabited by -gentry and merchants.” In the contemporary drawings it is shown as an -open space, but singularly devoid of trees. The artists may have been so -intent upon crowding their pictures with tightly packed citizens gazing -upon the decapitation of some unfortunate nobleman that they forgot to -put in the trees. Certainly several of the fine trees that now adorn -Trinity Square are of some age, and represent the survivors of that -fragment of the ancient forest which crept up to the eastern side of the -hill, and which we see so plainly marked in many of the old maps. - -In a house on the western side of Tower Hill Lady Raleigh dwelt with her -son when her husband was denied her society. From her window she could -look out day by day upon the Brick Tower to which Raleigh had been -removed, and tradition asserts that she was able to communicate with him -and send him gifts in spite of Waad’s stringent orders. The house in -which William Penn was born, on October 14, 1644, stood on the east side -of the hill; its site is covered by the new roadway leading to the -Minories. Penn was sent to school at Chigwell, in Essex, and it was -during those days of boyhood that he had been impressed by the preaching -of a Quaker preacher which led him to forsake the Church of his baptism -(he was baptized, as we shall see in the following chapter, in -Allhallows Barking), and join the Society of Friends. Thomas Otway, the -poet, abused by Rochester in his _Session of the Poets_, and praised by -Dryden, died, it is believed of starvation, in the Bull Inn on Tower -Hill, when only thirty-four years old. That great Elizabethan, Edmund -Spenser, was born near Tower Hill in 1552, and passed his boyhood there, -before going, when sixteen, to Pembroke College, Cambridge. In Little -Tower Street, in a timber-fronted, many-gabled house, now, alas, swept -away, James Thomson wrote his poem _Summer_, published in 1727. So much -for literary associations. - -Peter the Great, who raised Russia “out of the slough of ignorance and -obscurity,” in order to superintend the building of a navy took upon -himself the task of learning shipbuilding, first as a common labourer, -afterwards as a master craftsman. He came to London for four months and -worked in the dockyards by day and drank heavily in a public-house in -Allhallows Barking parish at night. He was accustomed “to resort to an -inn in Great Tower Street and smoke and drink ale and brandy, almost -enough to float the vessel he had been helping to construct.” Barrow, -his biographer, states that “the landlord had the Czar of Muscovy’s head -painted and put up for his sign, which continued until the year 1808, -when a person of the name of Waxel took a fancy to the old sign and -offered the then occupier of the house to paint him a new one for it. A -copy was accordingly made from the original, which maintains its -station to the present day as the sign of the Czar’s Head.” The house -has since been rebuilt and the sign removed, but the name remains. While -the Earl of Rochester was in disgrace at Court in Charles II.’s time he -is said to have “robed and bearded himself as an Italian quack or -mountebank physician, and, under the name of Bendo, set up at a -goldsmith’s house, next door to the Black Swan in Tower Street,” where -he advertised that he “was to be seen from three of the clock in the -afternoon till eight at night.” The second Duke of Buckingham came, once -or twice in disguise, in his days of political intrigue, to a house -facing Tower Hill, to consult an old astrologer who professed to draw -horoscopes. In Seething Lane, then known as Sidon Lane, which runs from -Allhallows Barking to the Church of St. Olave’s, Hart Street, Sir -Francis Walsingham, Queen Elizabeth’s principal secretary, dwelt “in a -fair and large house.” This foe of the Jesuits died here on April 5, -1590, “and was buried next night, at ten of the clock, in Paul’s -Church.” - -St. Olave’s Church is a building with many interesting associations, and -a well-written little pamphlet has recently been issued which visitors -will do well to read. There is only space here to mention the Pepys -monument, in the South Aisle, where the diarist was buried in June, -1703, the service being taken by his friend Dr. Hickes, Vicar of -Allhallows Barking. The registers of the parish show that from July 4 to -December 5, 1665, there were buried 326 people who had died of the -plague. A quaint skull and crossbones carving can still be seen over the -gateway within which the burial pit lay. Pepys, going to church -reluctantly early in the following year, is relieved to find snow -covering the plague spot. St. Olave’s has renewed its old-time activity -under the care of its present rector, the Rev. A. B. Boyd Carpenter. - -There is much of interest, also, in the neighbouring church of St. -Dunstan-in-the-East, lying between Tower Street and Lower Thames Street. -Its graceful spire is a familiar landmark, and, with its flying -buttresses set in bold relief when seen from Tower Hill against a sunset -sky, makes a noble crown to the church hidden from sight. St. Dunstan’s -list of rectors dates back to the early fourteenth century. In 1810 the -church became ruinous, and the walls of the nave, owing to insecurity of -foundation, showed signs of collapsing altogether. The present building -was opened in 1821 after restoration and reconstruction. The registers -of St. Dunstan’s escaped the Fire, and date back to 1558. A valuable -model of the church as rebuilt by Wren, and almost contemporaneous with -the rebuilding, may be seen in the vestry. - -The chief Mint of England was, from the Conquest down to 1811, situated -within Tower walls. It was removed in the year just mentioned to the -present buildings on the eastern side of Little Tower Hill, over which -visitors are shown if application be made beforehand to the -Deputy-Master. The art of “making money” is here shown from the solid -bar of gold to the new sovereign, washed and tested, sent out on its -adventurous career in a world which will welcome its face in whatever -company it appears. The Mint also possesses an excellently arranged -museum of coins and medals, in which are many invaluable treasures. - -Trinity House, headquarters of the Trinity Brethren, stands on Tower -Hill, facing the Tower. A graceful and well-proportioned building, it -supplants the older quarters in Water Lane, Great Tower Street. The -corporation of Trinity House was established in 1529 as “The Masters, -Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, or Fraternity, or Brotherhood of -the Most Glorious and Undividable Trinity,” and the first headquarters -was situated near the river, at Deptford. The guild was founded by Sir -Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., and commander of -the great ship, “a huge gilt four-master, the _Harry Grace de Dieu_,” in -which the King sailed to Calais on his way to the Field of the Cloth of -Gold. In 1854 “the exclusive right of lighting and buoying the coast” -was given to the Board of Trinity House. Within Trinity House to-day may -be seen models of practically all the important lighthouses and -lightships on the English coast. The regulations of Trinity House in -former times are described by Strype, and among them we find rules to -the effect that “Bumboats with fruit, wine, and strong waters were not -permitted by them to board vessels. Every mariner who swore, cursed, or -blasphemed on board ship was to pay one shilling to the ship’s poor-box. -Every mariner found drunk was fined one shilling, and no mariner could -absent himself from prayers unless sick, without forfeiting sixpence.” -The present House on Tower Hill was built in 1793-95 by Samuel Wyatt. On -the front, Ionic in character, are sculptured the arms of the -corporation, medallions of George III. and Queen Charlotte, genii with -nautical instruments, and representations of four of the principal -lighthouses on the coast. The interior is beautified by several valuable -pictures, one of them a large Gainsborough, and a suite of most handsome -furniture. Here, too, is preserved a flag taken from the Spanish Armada -by Drake, and many curious old maps and charts. The present Master of -Trinity House is H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, who visits Tower Hill every -Trinity Monday, and, with the Elder Brethren, walks through Trinity -Square and Catherine Court to service at the parish church. - -An old print hanging in one of the rooms of Trinity House depicts, with -some realism, the last execution on Tower Hill, in 1747, when Lord Lovat -suffered. In August of the previous year the Earl of Kilmarnock and Lord -Balmerino had been brought to the block after the Culloden tragedy. A -journal of the time gives us a most detailed account of the proceedings, -from which some extracts may be taken in order to form some idea of -procedures that were soon to end for ever. “About 8 o’clock the Sheriffs -of London ... and the executioner met at the Mitre Tavern in Fenchurch -Street, where they breakfasted, and went from thence to the house, on -Tower Hill near Catherine’s Court [now Catherine House], hired by them -for the reception of the lords before they should be conducted to the -scaffold, which was erected about thirty yards from the said house. At -ten o’clock the block was fixed on the stage and covered with black -cloth, with several sacks of sawdust up to strew on it; soon after the -coffins were brought, also covered with black cloth.” The leaden plates -from the lids of these coffins are those now preserved on the west wall -of St. Peter’s on Tower Green. “At a quarter after ten,” the account -proceeds, “the Sheriffs went in procession to the outward gate of the -Tower, and after knocking at it some time, a warder within asked, ‘Who’s -there?’ The officer without replied, ‘The Sheriffs of London and -Middlesex.’ The warder then asked, ‘What do they want?’ The officer -answered, ‘The bodies of William, Earl of Kilmarnock, and Arthur, Lord -Balmerino,’ upon which the warder within said, ‘I will go and inform the -Lieutenant of the Tower,’ and in about ten minutes the Lieutenant with -the Earl of Kilmarnock, and Major White with Lord Balmerino, guarded by -several of the warders, came to the gate; the prisoners were then -delivered to the Sheriffs, who gave proper receipt for their bodies to -the Lieutenant, who as usual said, ‘God bless King George!’ to which the -Earl of Kilmarnock assented by a bow, and the Lord Balmerino said, ‘God -bless King James!’ Lord Kilmarnock had met Lord Balmerino at the foot of -the stairs in the Tower and said to him, ‘My lord, I am heartily sorry -to have your company in this expedition.’” The prisoners were led to the -house near the block in Trinity Square, and they spent what time was -left to them in devotions. Kilmarnock was brought out to the scaffold -first. “The executioner, who before had something administered to keep -him from fainting, was so affected by his lordship’s distress, and the -awfulness of the scene that, on asking his [Lord Kilmarnock’s] -forgiveness, he burst into tears. My Lord bade him take courage, giving -him at the same time a purse with five guineas, and telling him he would -drop his handkerchief as a signal for the stroke.... In the meantime, -when all things were ready for the execution, and the black bays which -hung over the rails of the scaffold having, by the direction of the -Colonel of the Guard, or the Sheriffs, been turned up that - -[Illustration: THE BLOCK, AXE, AND EXECUTIONER’S MASK] - -the people might see all the circumstances of the execution, in about -two minutes after he kneeled down his lordship dropped his handkerchief. -The executioner at once severed the head from the body, except only a -small portion of the skin which was immediately divided by a gentle -stroke. The head was received in a piece of red baize and, with the -body, immediately put into the coffin.” Lord Balmerino followed shortly -afterwards, wearing the uniform in which he had fought at Culloden. His -end was not so swift as Lord Kilmarnock’s had been; twice the -executioner bungled his stroke, and not until the third blow was the -head severed. - -Lord Lovat, whom Hogarth had seen, and painted, in the White Hart Inn at -St. Albans as the prisoner was being brought to London, was led to the -block on Tower Hill on Thursday, April 9, 1747, and his was the last -blood that was shed there. Just before his execution, a scaffolding, -which had been erected at the eastern end of Barking Alley, fell and -brought to the ground a thousand spectators who had secured places upon -it to view the execution. Twelve were killed outright and scores of -others injured. “Lovat,” as the account puts it, “in spite of his awful -situation, seemed to enjoy the downfall of so many Whigs.” Lord Lovat’s -head was, at one blow, severed from his body, and Tower Hill’s record of -bloodshed was at an end. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER - - Calm Soul of all things! make it mine - To feel, amid the city’s jar, - That there abides a peace of thine - Man did not make, and cannot mar. - MATTHEW ARNOLD. - - -On the south-west side of Tower Hill there stands the oldest parish -church in London. But beyond the earliest date that we find any portion -of the present building mentioned, it is more than probable that a still -more ancient church occupied this piece of ground. Consider the -importance of the site. The approach to London from the sea was then, as -now, a somewhat dreary progress between the mud-flats that fringed the -river. On the northern bank the rising ground, now known as Tower Hill, -would be the first relief to the eye after the wearying Essex marshes. -Beyond and behind that hill lay the little city, and beside that hill -was set a church. But, with the building of the White Tower, the church -was eclipsed as a landmark for boats on the river, and now it is quite -obscured from the water-side by hideous brick warehouses that only men -of the nineteenth century could conceive and erect. In early days this -church stood on the edge of London; now it is in its very centre. Yet -few buildings equally well preserved have altered as little as this old -building has--this “fair church on Tower Hill”--and we have here handed -down to us much that is unique as a record not only of English history -but of the progress of architecture. The furnishings of the church, the -carvings and wrought-iron work, also carry us through generations of -activity in such arts, and the pavement brasses and sculptured tombs -serve as memorials of many a famous Englishman. The church has an -additional interest in being the nearest ancient building outside the -Tower walls and in having received, for burial, victims from the block -on Tower Hill. Yet the close connection of this ancient church with the -Tower and its history has not, hitherto, been sufficiently emphasised. -It is well, therefore, that we should give Allhallows some of our time -when we have explored and examined the Tower itself. - -Four hundred years before the Conqueror laid the foundation stones of -the White Tower, a cluster of cottages on the edge of Tower Hill, and -lying not far from the Ald-gate of the old walls of London, constituted -the germ of the present parish, and stood within sight of the earlier -church. What the history of the church was then we have no means of -knowing, but as it would be the first building of importance that Danish -invaders came upon during their onslaughts on London, it must have -passed through exciting times in those old days of raid and turmoil. - -Erkenwald, a seventh-century Bishop of London, founded the convent at -Barking, in Essex. Of this convent his sister, St. Ethelburga, became -first abbess, and the abbesses of Barking were not only mitred, but were -in after days peeresses of the realm. Erkenwald made over certain rights -of the land, upon which the parish is now spread, to this convent of -Barking, and, in return, a priest was supplied from the community to -serve the religious needs of the parishioners. It was thus the surname -Barking was acquired. It is, however, a surname that is somewhat -misleading, as printers, even to this present day, have an awkward habit -of placing a comma between “Allhallows” and “Barking” and so send many -who would visit the church on an empty quest into Essex. But the poor -printer is not altogether to blame. The people here have a way of -calling themselves “Barking people” and of referring to the parish as -“Barking parish.” This leads to unnecessary confusion. The only -alternative would be to retain the term on Tower Hill and ask the good -folk of the Essex town to adopt some other name! As it is improbable -that either of these suggestions will be taken seriously, a return to -the ancient title, “Berkyngechurch by the Tower,” might solve the -difficulty. - -The parish system in England took its rise under Theodore, Archbishop of -Canterbury, A.D. 668, and the number and boundaries of the parishes as -we know them to-day agree very nearly with the parochial divisions in -Doomsday Book. The ground now included in Allhallows parish was -undoubtedly included in Roman London, which extended from Tower Hill to -Dowgate Hill, the present Fenchurch and Lombard Streets forming the line -of its northern boundary. Eastward of the parish lay marsh and -forest--the great forest of Essex, of which so wide and unspoilt a -portion remains to us in Epping Forest. - -[Illustration: A True and Exact Draught of the TOWER LIBERTIES, _f_urvey -in the Year 1597 by _GULIELMUS HAIWARD_ and _J. GASCOYNE_. - -E. Gardner’s Collection.] - -In 1087, when a great fire devastated the city, a church in the Norman -style took the place of the Saxon building, and the nave pillars of -Allhallows date from that time. Of these pillars the one that shows its -great age more than the others--which, after successive cleanings, look -almost new--is that westernmost pillar on the north side which stands -within the choir practice-room. - -To this Norman building Richard I. added, either where the chancel -portion of the north aisle now stands, or near at hand, a Chantry Chapel -known as CAPELLA BEATAE MARIAE DE BERKINGE JUXTA TURRIM. This was, for -some time, the most famous shrine in connection with the building, and -became the care of the kings of England. In this Chantry was placed, by -Edward I., a statue of the Virgin, in accordance with a command received -by him in a vision, before his father’s death, in which he was assured -that he should subdue Wales and Scotland, and would be victorious while -this Berkinge Chapel was kept in repair. Tradition asserts that the -heart of the Lion-hearted Richard was placed under the altar of the -chapel here, but others maintain that after its removal from -Fontevrault, where the king was buried, it was sent to Rouen. Yet in -the time of the first Edward, an Indulgence of forty days was obtained -for all penitents worshipping at the shrine of the Virgin at Berkinge -Chapel, and in that instrument prayer is especially asked for the soul -of the founder, Richard I., “whose heart is buried beneath the high -altar.” - -A little later in the history of the church and its chapels we come upon -the names of John Tiptoft and Sir John Croke, both of whom, famous in -their generations, took especial interest in Allhallows. The former was -brought into touch with the place upon his appointment as Constable of -the Tower. He was created Earl of Worcester by Henry VI., was the friend -and supporter of Caxton, and has been called “the nursing father of -English printing.” A man of great learning, he had studied under Guarino -at Ferrara, had occupied a professor’s chair at Padua, was termed by -Walpole “one of the noble authors of England,” is remembered as a good, -but ruthless, soldier, lawyer, and politician, and was, in the end, by -the influence of Warwick, the king-maker, disgraced and beheaded on -Tower Hill. Tiptoft founded a confraternity or guild at Berkinge Chapel, -and of this guild elected Sir John Croke to be one of the first Wardens. -Of Tiptoft, who was buried at Blackfriars monastery, no memorial -remains here, but Croke’s tomb we shall come upon, later, as we go -through the church. - -In the time of Richard III. the chantry chapel comes once again into the -light of fame, and is known far and wide as “Berkingshaw.” Richard, who, -as we have seen, was no saint when dwelling in the Tower, seems to have -been influenced by the age and sanctity of Allhallows to do good deeds, -and is known here only as pious benefactor. He achieved this by -“newbuilding this chapel,” and adding to the original foundation a -college of priests, consisting of a Dean (Chaderton, a friend of -Richard’s), and six Canons. In the _Calendar of State Papers, Domestic_, -Henry VIII., 10th July, 1514, there is to be found a record of a -“confirmation of the Chapel of St. Mary in the Cæmetary of Barkingchurch -London to the Guild of St. Mary.” Provision is also made “for the -election of a Master and four Wardens annually for the safe custody of -the said chapel.” - -If Berkinge Chapel during its long history had been the peculiar care of -royalty, the church, after the upheavals in the time of Henry VIII. and -Edward VI., became the care, and also the resort, of the prosperous -burgesses of the City. It was conveniently near the Tower where the -King and his Court were lodged, and where the King’s Justiciars held -their sittings, and so became a meeting-place of representative -citizens, where matters could be discussed when the City and Tower -happened to be at variance--not by any means an infrequent occurrence. -From early times, indeed, we may trace the feelings of affection which -dwellers in the City, and more especially in the parish, have felt for -their historic church. In 1265 we hear of Sir Roger de Leiburn, who was -“lodging in the Tower,” meeting the representatives of the City at -Berkyngechurche on their proposing to make their submission to the king, -after the battle of Evesham. To that meeting came the Mayor “and a -countless multitude of citizens.” Again, in 1280, the burgesses -“apparelled in their best attire” gathered at Berkyngechurche and -proceeded to the Tower to meet the King’s Justiciars “for the purpose of -holding an Inquest, or inquiring into the peace of the City.” “Gregory, -the Mayor,” as we read in the _Liber Albus_ of the Corporation of -London, “disputing the right of the Crown to hold an Inquest for the -City of London, for the honour of the Mayoralty refused to enter the -Tower as _Mayor_, but, laying aside his insignia and seal at the high -Altar of Berkyngechurche, as the last church in the City next the -Tower, entered the Tower merely as one of the Aldermen, alleging that by -the ancient liberties he was not bound to attend the Inquests, nor to -make appearance therein for judgments, unless forewarned for forty -days.” The King, Edward I., as punishment for this disobedience, -“abolished the office of Mayor, appointing a Warden in his place; which -custom obtained till 26 Ed. I., when the ancient liberties of the City -were restored.” Those of the citizens “who had accompanied Rokesly to -Berkyngechurche” were confined in the Tower for some days and would, no -doubt, on their return to their admiring families, be looked upon with a -certain awe ever afterwards. - -In the archives of the Guildhall we find that in 1302 Allhallows Barking -appears as one of the advowsons of the City of London belonging to the -Abbess and Convent of Barking. But after the suppression of the convent -by Henry VIII. the patronage passed to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in -whose hands it remains to this day. Another interesting fact we gather -from the ancient records of the City is that Allhallows was one of the -three churches where the curfew was rung each night as a warning that it -was time for all good citizens to be indoors, and as a precaution -against fire. This ancient curfew bell, it is believed, is that hung in -the small bell-turret on the tower of the church and upon which the -hammer of the clock strikes the hours. - -Towards the end of the fifteenth century great changes took place with -regard to the structure of the church. The chantry chapels had fallen -into a state of disrepair, and it became necessary to rebuild the -chancel to which they were attached and to strengthen the fabric of the -nave. It is to this rebuilding that we owe the contrast afforded by the -massive pillars of the body of the church with the graceful, deeply -moulded Perpendicular pillars of the chancel. The manner in which the -one style has been grafted on the other, where, as Allen says, “the -pillars between the chancel and the nave are singularly composed of half -a circular and half a clustered column worked together” attracts the -attention of even the most casual observer. Mr. Fleming, in his -admirable little pamphlet on the church, sums up the various alterations -that have taken place in the structure when he says “the view of the -stately interior tells at once, and more fully than the outside -features, the story of the changes that have befallen the church through -the centuries since its foundation. For the columns of the nave are -Norman, the east window with its intricate tracery was the work of the -sumptuous Decorated period, whilst the clerestory and aisles, with the -slender clustered shafts of the chancel arcading, belong to the -Perpendicular style.... Allhallows is a good instance of the manner in -which, entirely convinced of the supreme merits of their school of -building, the architects of the Perpendicular period superimposed their -style on what had gone before. The contrast between the light clustered -columns of the chancel, with their beautiful splayed arches, and the -heavy pillars of the nave, is extremely striking, and almost remorseless -in its hint of the supercilious ease with which the men of the Tudor -period parted from the past and its traditions.” - -The interior of the church was at this time embellished by mural -decorations; and lingering traces of the paint, on one or two of the -nave columns, were left undisturbed during the last restoration, in -1904. A rood-screen stood in front of the new chancel, and above it rose -the famous Duddyngton organ. Alas, no traces of either remain to us, -even in a museum. While Charles I. was on the throne the interior was -again renovated, and during the long toll of subsequent years the -history of Allhallows resolves itself into a record of successive -restorations. Few churches have been more carefully and lovingly tended -than this has been, and its present state of preservation is due to this -interest which it has always inspired in those who appreciate its worth -and beauty. Allhallows, unlike so many other churches, has not lost but -gained by its restorations. An old building, such as this, is in -constant need of attention. The problem has ever been the vexed one of -renewing without destroying. But any one who enters Allhallows to-day -will feel that the problem has been solved here with complete success. -The later restorations, including the reroofing, restoration of the -ancient battlements, and preservation of the lower parts of the outer -walls, has cost, in round figures, twelve thousand pounds, and every -penny has been wisely spent in handing down to future generations so -wonderful a memorial of the past. - -The period of the Commonwealth has left its mark in most sacred -buildings as a time of pulling-down; but this church has the singular -advantage of remembering it as a time of setting-up. The old stone tower -which stood at the south-west corner of the building--the foundations of -which were uncovered a few years ago during the erection of that -amazing indiscretion, the warehouse which now stands upon the site--was -severely disturbed in 1649, when, on January 4 of that year, “a blow of -twenty-seven barrels of gunpowder, that took fire in a ship-chandler’s -house on the south side of the church,” created havoc in the immediate -neighbourhood. The explosion is described in Strype’s edition of Stow’s -_Survey_. “It seems that the chandler was busy in his shop barrelling -the powder, about seven o’clock in the evening, when it became ignited -and blew up, not merely that house, but fifty or sixty others. The -number of persons destroyed was never ascertained, for the next house -but one was a tavern, known as ‘The Rose,’ which was full of company, in -consequence of a parish dinner: it must have been very great, however, -judging from the number of limbs and bodies which were dug up from the -ruins. The hostess of the tavern, sitting in the bar, and the waiter -standing by with a tankard in his hand, were found beneath some fallen -beams, but were dead from suffocation. It is recorded that, the morning -after this disaster, a female infant was discovered lying in a cradle on -the roof of the church neither bruised nor singed.” The parents of the -babe were never traced. The child was given the surname “Barking,” -adopted by the parish, and “lived to an adult age.” But, while the baby -was saved, the heavy tower was doomed. As a result of the shock it -became so insecure that complete demolition was necessary. During the -Protectorate the present tower was set up, and, though it is about as -uninspired a piece of ecclesiastical brickwork as one can imagine, yet -it has a certain interest not only for having arisen during the days of -Cromwell, but for having just barely escaped destruction when the Great -Fire came to its base. It was up this tower that the ever-curious Pepys, -who lived near by, in Seething Lane, climbed hurriedly to see the -devastation of Old London. The event will be found recorded in the -_Diary_ under the date September 5, 1666. - -The building of this tower brings to mind an amusing episode in the -records of the church. It appears that over the clock (the “dyall of -Barking Church,” mentioned by Pepys) the wardens then in office put up a -huge effigy of St. Michael, weighing nearly twenty tons. “Its right hand -held a trumpet and in its left was a leaden scroll, inscribed, ‘Arise, -ye dead, and come to judgment.’” St. Michael, having been scorched and -blistered by the Fire of London, was taken down in 1675--there was no -“hustling” in those days--repainted, and placed “over the Commandments -at the east end of the church.” Two smaller figures which had supported -the central effigy on the wall of the tower were put up over the organ -in the new organ-loft at the west end, where, reclining gracefully, they -remain to this day. St. Michael had a rougher time of it, and was the -cause of one of those absurd squabbles that too often mar the harmony of -a quiet parish. One or two of the congregation indicted the -churchwardens “at Old Bailey, under the statute of Edward VI., against -images,” but the prosecution was abandoned on the ground of expense. A -Mr. Shearman supported the parishioners, “and upon his own -responsibility destroyed the image.” This occasioned “a furious war of -words between him and the lecturer, Jonathan Saunders,” acting as curate -of the parish. Shearman wrote virulent pamphlets which were “published -by a friend of the Author’s, to prevent false reports,” and addressed -them to the Vicar, Dr. Hickes, and his wardens. The latter part of this -entertaining publication asserts--as a dig at Saunders as compared with -the Vicar--that “men of the least learning are always the most formal.” -It goes on to insinuate “that Barking parish was then as famous for its -love of drinking ceremonies as for its dislike of religious formality.” -The drinking ceremonies have certainly passed away. The pamphlet -concludes thus: “I hope our parish shall not lose an inch of its -reputation, nor be censured as irregular, but remain a primitive pattern -for all London, yea, and all England.” Mr. Saunders replied with -double-shotted guns, and the Shearman battery opened fire again with -unfailing vigour. The parishioners soon tired of the troublesome and -cantankerous Shearman and all his ways. His statements were considered -“rude, scurrilous, and scandalous,” and it was recorded in the minutes -of the vestry, held on April 24, 1681, that his attack “tends to the -dishonour of the Church of England as now established, and is a libel -upon the Vicar and the whole parish.” So ends this seventeenth-century -turmoil. - -Before we enter the church by the north porch, our attention will be -attracted by the three carved figures above the doorway. That in the -centre represents the Virgin (the church being dedicated to St. Mary and -All Saints), with St Ethelburga, Abbess of Barking, on one side and -Bishop Andrewes (who was baptised in Allhallows) on the other. This -group, as has been well said, “combines in one - -[Illustration: THE TOWER FROM GREAT TOWER STREET (SOUTH PORCH OF -ALLHALLOWS BARKING)] - -presentment three periods in the history of the Church, the primitive, -the mediæval, and the modern.” Inside the porch the quaint chambers on -the left are restorations of what in earlier times were, it is -conjectured, recesses for meditation and study. In front of us is the -second doorway, delicately carved, and much weather-worn owing to -exposure of the soft stone before the building of the porch. The first -glance we have of the interior of the church, from just within this -doorway, must impress us with a sense of the dignity of the building. - -_North Aisle._--As we turn to go down the north aisle we will see, set -in the pavement, a plain, square brass above the grave of George Snayth, -auditor to Archbishop Laud, who was buried here, to be near his master, -in 1651. The church is singularly rich in pavement brasses, and, before -the removals and mutilations of Puritan times, possessed an even more -remarkable collection of these memorials. At the eastern end of the -aisle we come upon the curious stone commemorating Thomas Virby, seventh -vicar. This is the only tomb of a pre-Reformation vicar that remains in -the building. Though the slab is worn almost smooth by the feet of so -many generations, yet the outlines of an elaborate design can still be -traced upon it. A rubbing taken recently showed a full-length figure, -with a dog lying at the feet to the left. The fragment of brass towards -the top of the stone bore, apparently, an engraving of the head and of -the hands, raised to the chin, in an attitude of prayer. Virby was a -remarkable man. In a fifteenth-century _English Chronicle_, edited for -the Camden Society in 1856, it appears that “in the XIX y^{r}. of King -Harry, the Friday before midsummer, a Priest called Sir Ric. Wyche, a -Vicar in Essex, was burnt on Tower Hill for heresy, for whose death was -a great murmuring and many simple people came to the place making their -prayers as to a saint and bare away the ashes of his body for reliques. -Some were taken to prison [in the Tower]: amongst others the Vicary of -Barking Church beside the Tower, in whose parish all this was done.” -Virby was charged with scattering “powder and spices over the place -where the heretic was burnt that it might be believed that the sweet -flavour came of the ashes of the dead.” But evidently this was -considered no very great offence, for Virby was subsequently set free, -restored to his position at Allhallows, and died Vicar in 1453. Nearer -the altar steps will be found the beautifully engraved brass, in the -French style, of John Bacon, who died in 1437. A heart, inscribed with -the word “Mercy,” and encircled by a scroll, lies in the upper part of -the stone, and the figures of Bacon and his wife, cut out of “latten” or -sheet-brass, and two feet one inch in length, occupy the sides. The -treatment of the drapery of both figures is quite perfect, giving, too, -an excellent idea of the costume of the time. The scroll bears the -words, “_Mater Dei memento mei: Jesu fili Dei miserere mei._” Bacon -belonged to the ancient company of Woolmen, which seems to have been the -leading guild of the Middle Ages; its members were usually adventurous -and wealthy men. Brasses dedicated to men of his craft are very -numerous; and this need excite no surprise when we remember how much of -their trade was continental and particularly carried on in those -countries where latten was milled. Bacon, we may surmise from his will -preserved at the Guildhall, was a man of substance and of many acres. -Near by will be seen an incised slab over the tomb of the wife of Wm. -Denham, Alderman, Sheriff, and Master of the Ironworkers’ Company, who -departed this life “on Wednesday at 5 of ye clok at afternown Ester Weke -ye last day of Marche A° D° 1540.” The brass has disappeared. - -The finely wrought canopied altar-tomb against the north wall, close by -the Bacon brass, dates back to the fifteenth century. It is carved in -Purbeck marble and at the back has two small brasses, one representing a -man with five sons and the other a woman with seven daughters, all -kneeling. Name and date are both gone, but a shield in the left-hand -corner enables us to connect the monument with the family of Croke. Sir -John Croke, it will be remembered, was one of the early wardens of -Berkinge Chapel, a trustee to whom Edward IV. “conveyed lands for the -support of the Chapel of St. Mary” and founder of a chantry here in -1477. This John Croke, “citizen, leather-seller, and alderman of -London,” was a generous benefactor to Allhallows, leaving to it at his -death many gifts and sundry legacies “to the altar of Allhallows Bkg., -the works of the church, to purchase vestments and books, for the repair -of the rood-loft,” and so on. It is quite probable that this memorial -was used as a chantry altar, of which there were many in the church -until 1547 and the beginning of “the years of spoliation.” A well-carved -crest will be seen on the pavement stone covering the Marishall tomb, -and, nearer the altar-steps, a grey marble slab of the year of the -Great Fire lies over the grave of Sir Roger Hatton, Alderman, whose -coat-of-arms may be traced near the head of the stone. On the north wall -we find a memorial to Charles Wathen, “the indulgent parent of nine -children,” one of which, Master William, “received his death-wound in -battling with a pirate in the East Indies” and should therefore be -somewhat of a hero to all boys in the adventure stage of their careers. -A broken pillar on this wall was put up in 1696 in memory of Giles -Lytcott, “the first Controller-General of the Customs of England and the -English Colonies in America,” whose mother was the daughter of Sir -Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower. Pepys, in his account of the -Fire of 1666, refers to an “Alderman Starling, a very rich man, without -children. The fire at the next door to him in our lane (Seething Lane). -After our men had saved his house he did give 2s. 6d. amongst thirty of -them, and did quarrel with some that would remove the rubbish out of the -way of the fire, saying that they had come to steal.” This “very rich -man” was Lord Mayor in 1670, and his arms are depicted in stained glass -on one of the windows of this aisle “as a remembrance of the escape of -the church from the Great Fire.” Attached to the pillar behind the -pulpit there remains an interesting relic in the form of an elegantly -designed hat peg, the only survivor of many such pegs on the pillars of -this church, dating back, it is believed, to the early seventeenth -century. Above the Croke altar-tomb, to the left, there is to be seen -the kneeling figure of Jerome Bonalia, an Italian, probably the Venetian -Ambassador, who died in 1583 and, in his will, thus indicates his -burial-place, “Volendo che il mio corpo sia sepoltra n’ella pariochia -d’i Barchin.” - -_East End._--The eighteenth-century monument that partially hides the -window at the east end of the north aisle covers the tomb of Thomas -Gordon of Tower Liberty, who, according to the inscription, had the -“singular felicity” to command “esteem, confidence, and affection in the -tender and more delicate connections of private life.” But his is -certainly the misfortune to be remembered by as ugly and depressing a -memorial as could be imagined. Even in the year of its erection a vestry -minute records “that the monument now erecting for the late Mr. Gordon -is a nuisance”! In _Machin’s Diary_, 1556, it is stated that on “the vi -day of September was bered at Barking Church Mr. Phelype Dennys, Squyre, -with cote of armes.” This Dennis coat-of-arms may still be seen, now -somewhat time-worn, on the wall between the Gordon monument and the -altar. - -The beautiful and softly-toned stained glass of the East window is -modern. The work of Mr. J. Clayton, it commemorates the incumbency of -Dr. Mason, the first Head of the present College of Clergy attached to -this church. The altar-piece beneath, heavy in design and gloomy in -effect, is an example of the art of 1686. Some elaborate carving is -hidden beneath the coverings and frontal of the Communion Table: it is -an excellent example of the skilful workmanship in wood that has been to -some extent neglected since the days of Gibbons. For many years the -brass altar-rails, erected in 1750, were so blackened by neglect that -they were often mistaken for rails of old wood. By their individual -gracefulness when examined at close quarters, and yet solid appearance -when viewed from the nave, these beautiful rails form one of the most -striking adornments of the building. - -_Clergy Vestry._--Permission to enter this room should be obtained from -the sacristan, who will show the many interesting documents treasured -here. On the wall, to the right as one enters the room, hangs an -excellent painting of Dr. Gaskarth, twenty-seventh vicar, who was -appointed in 1686. “A highly popular Vicar, generous, and of firm, but -conciliatory manners. Under his auspices the church was twice thoroughly -repaired. He was vicar for forty-six years and died in 1732, aged 86.” -Those who have an interest in such matters are recommended to read the -beautiful Latin lines inscribed in the registers where, under the date -Dec. 1, 1703, Dr. Gaskarth records the burial of his wife. On the wall, -to the left of the entrance, there are two interesting old maps, the -lower one, which is more of a picture than a map, giving an excellent -idea of the appearance of London before the Fire, and the small one, -higher on the wall, a representation of Allhallows, standing almost -alone on Tower Hill, before the parish consisted of more than a few rows -of cottages. This is the valuable “Gascoyne survey, made in 1597.” On -the wall to the left of the fireplace will be found a key-plan to all -the tombs, brasses, and memorials of the church, placed here through the -instrumentality of the then Churchwarden, Mr. Henry Urquhart. Would that -earlier churchwardens had taken like interest in the place, and left us -such plans of the building in their day! From the windows of the vestry -there is to be had a glimpse of the graveyard, somewhat depressing, with -its many ancient and fast-decaying tomb-monuments and headstones. - -The registers of the church, stored in an iron room opening off this -vestry, contain much that is of very great interest, and time spent in -their examination will not be lost. There are thirteen books, the first -beginning in 1558, with the accession of Queen Elizabeth, and extending -to 1650. - -Taking the baptisms first, we are reminded that before the beginning of -the records now remaining there was, about the year 1555, the -christening ceremony of the famous Bishop Andrewes, “a native of this -parish,” in the church. As the Bishop constantly prayed for Allhallows -Barking, “where I was baptised,” this fact is beyond dispute though the -actual entry is lost. In 1609 we come upon the name of Francis, son of -Sir James Bourchier, Knt., under February 5. Bourchier was father-in-law -of Oliver Cromwell, and a City merchant of considerable importance. He -possessed an estate at Felsted in Essex, and a town house beside Tower -Hill, “then a favourite residence of the lesser aristocracy.” In 1616 -we find that a son of Sir William Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, was -baptised here, showing the close connection that has always existed -between this church and the Tower. But the most interesting of all the -entries is that against October 23, 1644, when William Penn, founder of -Pennsylvania, was brought to the font in Allhallows. His father, an -officer of high rank in the navy, at that time “dwelt upon the east side -of Tower Hill, within a court adjoining to London Wall,” and William, -his eldest son, was born within that house, now demolished, within Tower -Liberties. It is worth while to note that it was not until quite late in -the eighteenth century that double Christian names were given to -children brought to baptism. - -With regard to marriages, the register begins in 1564, and in 1650 there -is a curious entry, under March 28, which states that “a cupple being -married went away and gave not their names”! In 1763 Samuel Parr, father -of the celebrated Dr. Parr, married “Margaret Cox of this parish, -spinster.” This Margaret was “the daughter of Dr. Cox, formerly -Head-master of Harrow School.” Another interesting entry is that -referring to John Quincy Adams, afterwards sixth President of the -United States, who was thirty years old when, on July 26, 1797, he -married Louisa Catherine Johnson of this parish. Judge Jeffreys also -married his first wife here, but the entry has disappeared. - -The Burial Register is most remarkable of all. In 1563, a plague year, -there were no less than 284 burials, mostly women and children, and -nearly 22,000 people died in that year in London alone. Other periods of -plague and consequent excessive mortality were the years 1582, 1593, -1625, and 1665. In 1625 “394 persons died in this parish, being six -times the average mortality.” The Calendar of State Papers for this year -contains a record of “a petition from the minister and churchwardens of -Allhallows Barking, praying that some part of the cloth for mourning for -the late King, distributed among the poor of divers parishes of London, -may be given to this parish, one of the poorest within the city walls -and sorely visited by the plague.” The plague of 1665, most disastrous -of a long series, is too well known, from sundry descriptions, to need -more than mere mention here. Before the earliest date in this book of -burials there was placed “in the graveyard of Barking church the -headless body, very indecently interred,” of Bishop Fisher, executed on -the East Smithfield side of Tower Hill in 1535. Reference has already -been made to Fisher in connection with his imprisonment in the Bell -Tower, and the removal of his body, after it had lain for some time in -this churchyard, to St. Peter’s, on Tower Green. Another victim of Henry -VIII.’s wrath, Henry Howard, the poet Earl of Surrey, was, in 1547, -buried beside the church after a mock trial and subsequent execution on -Tower Hill. His remains, also, were removed and taken, in 1614, to -Framlingham in Suffolk. Lord Thomas Grey, brother of the Duke of Suffolk -and uncle of Lady Jane Grey, was “heddyd on Tower Hill, April 28, 1554, -and berried at Allhallows Barking.” In Queen Mary’s luckless reign, “a -plot to rob the Queen’s Exchequer was discovered and the leaders sent to -the Tower.” _Machin’s Diary_ thus records the event: “On the eighth day -of July, Henry Peckham and John Daneel were hanged on Tower Hill. Their -bodies were cut down and headed, the heads carried to London Bridge and -the bodies buried in Barkin church.” Continuing our inspection of the -Burial Register, we come upon the most interesting entry of all. Under -the date January 11, 1644, we read: “William Laud, Archbishop of -Canterbury, beheaded T----.” The last word has been almost erased. We -can but conjecture that the word was “Traitor,” and that some later hand -scratched out all but the initial letter. But why was that letter left -if every trace of so hateful a word was to be obliterated? Laud was -buried in the Vicar’s vault under the altar, but his body was taken to -St. John’s College, Oxford, in 1663. Laud’s body, “being accompanied to -the grave with great multitudes of people, who in love, or curiosity, or -remorse of conscience had gathered together, was decently interred in -Allhallows Barking ... and had the honour of being buried in that church -in the form provided by the Common Prayer Book after it had been long -disused and almost reprobated in most of the churches in London.” - -Some earlier entries in this register are of sufficient interest to -attract attention. During 1560 there is a curious reference to the -burial of “a poor starved Callis man” which may mean a callisman (a -beggar), or a destitute refugee from Calais, which had been lost to -England two years earlier. In 1591, 1596, and 1599 there were buried in -the church two sons and a daughter of the famous Robert, Earl of Essex, -favourite of Elizabeth, which Earl “possessed a house in Seething Lane, -in this parish.” Entries regarding persons of less fame, but surely of -considerable interest to us as suggesting the state of the poor at that -time, occur in the seventeenth century. One is “a poore soldier, dying -in the streetes in ye night whose name was unknowne” (February 18, -1606); another is “a poore boy that dyed in the streetes” (1620); and -yet another is “one unknowne, starved on Tower Hill” (January 15, 1627). -With the entries for January 1 and 2, 1644, we are introduced to the -period of the Civil War, during which time Tower Hill was the scene of -frequent executions and Allhallows Barking received the headless bodies -of many of the victims. Against the dates just mentioned there are the -names of John Hotham, Esq., “beheaded for betraying his trust to the -State,” and Sir John Hotham, Knt., “beheaded for betraying his trust to -the Parliament.” Sir John Hotham and his son were beheaded in -consequence of a design to deliver up Hull to the King, which place they -held for the Parliamentary forces. With these melancholy entries we may -place another of the seventeenth day of the following June, which -records the burial of “Dorathie, daughter of Sir John Hotham, Knt., and -the Ladie Elizabeth his wife,” and tells of the passing away of the -grief-stricken child, “who desired to be buried here with her father.” -On April 23, 1650, the entry, “Colonel Andrewes beheaded; buried in ye -chancel,” refers to Colonel Eusebius Andrewes, “an old Loyalist, -condemned to suffer as a traitor. He was beheaded on Tower Hill, dying -with much firmness and courage.” - -On leaving the vestry we may notice, behind the door leading into the -church, a recently discovered and much-damaged piscina, or place of -ablution for the priests serving at the altar. This was accidentally -found when the walls were stripped of their plaster, in 1904. From its -position it would lead one to suppose that the altar rails were at one -time carried along on the top of the present altar steps. But of this we -have no conclusive proof. - -The best view of the interior of the church is to be obtained from this -standpoint. The high pitch of the excellently restored roof, the grace -and lightness of the chancel pillars as contrasted with the massiveness -of those in the nave, the imposing appearance of the handsome organ -case--all these striking features will leave one of the most lingering -impressions of the building as a whole, apart from its interest in -detail, with those who pause here as before a remarkable picture. - -On the easternmost pillar of the chancel there will be noticed the -memorial to John Kettlewell, the celebrated Non-juror, who died in 1695, -and, by his own desire, was buried “in the same grave where Archbishop -Laud was before interred.” His funeral rites were solemnised by Bishop -Ken, who read the Burial Office, and the whole Evening Service, at -Allhallows Barking on the occasion. Ken, deprived of his see, thus, for -the last time, exercised his ministry within the Church of England. - -_South Aisle._--Beneath the window at the east end of this aisle the -Colleton monument, “from the chisel of Scheemakers,” almost rivals its -neighbour in the North Aisle by its heavy dulness, but the altar-tomb -against the south wall is an early monument worthy of careful -examination. Like the Croke altar-tomb already described, it dates back -to the fifteenth century and is the more ancient of the two. A gilt -brass plate at the back of the tomb is graven with a representation of -the Resurrection. It is not now possible to ascertain to whose memory -the tomb was erected: possibly it commemorates the founder of a chantry -chapel attached to this chancel aisle. - -The beautifully carved font-cover, executed in whitened wood--not -plaster, as many suppose--is the work, and some think the masterpiece, -of Grinling Gibbons, whose incomparable works of art, the carving of -fruit and flowers and decorative scroll-work, in wood, are to be seen in -other parts of this church, in other City churches, and in many a -manor-house and ancient hall throughout England. This font-cover will -repay the most careful study. Gibbons’ signature, so to speak, may be -found in the “split pea-pod” near the feet of one of the figures. - -The brasses in this aisle are of singular interest. The elaborate brass -near the altar-tomb, with its ornamental border, is a 1546 memorial to -William Thynne, one of the Masters of the Household under Henry VIII. He -was the first to edit a complete edition of Chaucer’s works, “to show -that England had her classics as well as other nations.” When this brass -was taken up and restored in 1861 it was found to be engraved on both -sides. The supposition is that, at the dissolution of the monasteries, -“when many treasures found their way into the markets”--as one writer -puts it, with just a touch of cynicism--a larger brass, which had -covered the tomb of some dignitary of the Church, was cut down to the -size of the figures we see on this Thynne slab, and the back of the -former engraving became the front of the present one. Thynne “married -Ann, daughter of William Bonde, Esq., of the city of London, who now -lies by his side. He left three daughters and one infant son, Francis, -who became a distinguished antiquarian, and held the office of Lancaster -Herald. The extreme youth of this child prevented his inheriting his -father’s prestige at Court, which in consequence descended to his -nephews, one of whom was Sir John Thynne of Longleat, founder of the -noble house of Bath.” The small circular brass (1389) near by, bearing -an inscription in Norman-French, is the oldest in the City, and records -the resting-place of William Tonge, a generous benefactor to Allhallows -in the fourteenth century. The larger Rusche brass, laid down in 1498, -has had its precatory invocation erased by the over-zealous Puritans, -but is otherwise in good preservation. The engraving is rough and bold. -The details of the costume are true to contemporary drawings of the -period, and the position of the dog will recall what was said with -regard to the tracings - -[Illustration: CHURCH OF ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER (EAST SIDE OF -SOUTH AISLE, WITH GIBBONS’ FONT COVER)] - -on the Virby stone in the North Aisle. Farther west lies the Rawson -brass, dated 1518, also mutilated by the iconoclasts of the mid -seventeenth century. The central figure is that of Christopher Rawson, -“freeman of the ancient Guild of the Mercers,” and the other figures -represent “Margaret and Agnes his wyves.” In his will he mentions “a -chantry in the chapel of St. Anne in the church of Allhallows Barking” -where prayers for “his own soul and the souls of his wyves and children” -were to be said. Canon Mason, in an article which appeared in the -_Nineteenth Century_ for May 1898, says: “From a theological point of -view [this is] perhaps the most interesting monument in the church. From -the mouths of the three figures issue scrolls, which unite over their -heads in an invocation to the Blessed Trinity. But these scrolls are in -one respect unique.” Reference is made to the wording of the scrolls, -“_Salva nos_, _Libera nos_, and _Iustifica nos_, _O beata Trinitas_.” -“‘Save us’ and ‘Deliver us’ are of course expressions common enough; -‘_Vivifica nos_,’ ‘Quicken us,’ occurs in a similar context in mediæval -services; but search may be made without finding anywhere else, I -believe, in liturgical formulas or in sepulchral inscriptions, another -example of ‘Justify us.’... In the year 1518 the controversies about -justification raised on the Continent by Luther had not begun to -convulse England; and indeed Rawson’s invocation takes no side in the -controversy. He does not say whether he hopes to be justified by faith -or justified by works, but he has laid hold upon the long-forgotten -word, and craves that the blessing contained in it, whatever that might -consist of, may be given to him and to his wives.” The Basano slab, of -1624, lies above “one of the King’s servants,” and the adjoining tomb of -Dame Anne Masters, who died in 1719, records the wife of Sir H. Masters, -City Alderman, and mother of nineteen children, which goodly company of -descendants occupy much burial-space round the Rawson tomb. - -On one of the pillars of this aisle a sadly dilapidated brass plate -commemorates “William Armer, Governor of the Pages of Honor to Henry -VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, who died in 1560.” His wife’s -burial is entered in the registers against May 1, 1563. She is the lady -to whom, according to the _Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VIII._, -payments were made “for cambric and makyng y^{e} King’s shirts.” - -The daily services of the church were continued in this aisle without -intermission during the progress of the work of restoration. - -_Choir._--As we walk back towards the east end and turn into the choir -portion of the chancel we may notice two quaint semicircular seats at -the foot of the pillars on the altar steps. These forms were made out of -the wood of the old roof removed in 1814. The choir stalls, of solid -oak, are comparatively recent additions to the building and bear some -fine carving representing “the fellowship of the angelic with the animal -world.” These stalls are constructed to accommodate the clergy of the -Mission College of Allhallows Barking as well as the members of the -choir. The seat of the Warden of the College and Vicar of the parish is -that which faces east. In mentioning the vicar and clergy, we may here -fitly recall many of the men who have served at the altar of Allhallows -and whose names have not been lost to fame. There is preserved a tabular -list of the vicars since the presentation to the living of Wm. Colles on -March 2, 1387. Chaderton, thirteenth vicar, was, as we have already -seen, appointed dean of the “free chaple of Berkynge” by Richard III. -Carter, appointed in 1525, was a friend of Wolsey’s, and resigned in the -year of the Cardinal’s fall, 1530. Dawes, 1542-1565, was the first -Protestant incumbent and possessed many of the attributes of the Vicar -of Bray as sketched in the verses of the old song; Wood, 1584-1591, was -the first vicar appointed by the Archbishop of Canterbury; Ravis, vicar -from 1591 to 1598, was one of the translators of the present Authorised -Version of the Bible; as was also his successor at Allhallows, Dr. -Tighe. The twenty-fifth vicar, Edward Layfield, appointed in 1635, was a -nephew of Archbishop Laud. “Layfield was deprived in 1642 [by an -ordinance of the House of Commons] under circumstances of considerable -barbarity. He was interrupted during the performance of divine service, -dragged out of church [while the walls of the old church resounded to -the shrieks of an infuriated mob within and without the building], set -on a horse with his surplice not removed, the Common Prayer Book tied -round his neck; and in this manner forced to ride through the city. Then -was he thrown into prison ... and no provision made for his maintenance -whatever.” Layfield was restored to his living on the return of Charles -II. His contemporaries describe him as “a man of generous and noble -spirit, great courage and resolution, and much respected in his parish, -though a High Churchman.” Vicar during the Plague and the Fire, he died -in 1680, and was buried here in the chancel. Dr. Hickes, appointed in -1681, was “one of the most remarkable and highly educated men of his -generation,” and, on the accession of William and Mary, “refused to take -the oaths, was deprived of all his preferments,” and became a Non-juror. -He was a friend of Pepys, and that volatile product of the Restoration -period often lamented Dr. Hickes’ long and dull sermons. Hickes attended -Pepys as he lay on his deathbed, and many references to this Vicar of -Allhallows will be found in the _Diary_. - -The present body of mission clergy attached to the church have their -College in Trinity Square, on Tower Hill. They do excellent work for the -Church at large, travel to all parts of England constantly, and to far -parts of the world occasionally to preach and conduct missions. In this -way the revenue of Allhallows--a seemingly large sum to the “man in the -street” (who usually remains there, to scoff at “useless city -churches”)--is taken up to the last penny for this most valuable and -useful work. The College was established in 1883, and many men known far -and wide for their work in the Church--I may instance Dr. Collins, now -Bishop of Gibraltar--have been members of it. Its first Head was Dr. A. -J. Mason, now Master of Pembroke College, Cambridge, to whom Allhallows -is indebted for the restoration of the north porch and the gift of the -upper schoolroom. His successor, the present Warden, Dr. Arthur W. -Robinson, has since carried on the arduous duties of the College and has -brought all departments of the work in connection with Allhallows as a -parish church up to a point of remarkable efficiency. Never was the old -building more zealously served than it is now, and never has it been -better used by parishioners and by others whose daily work lies in the -City. A numerous congregation, consisting of those who come up from the -eastern suburbs by the early trains and have an hour to spare before -beginning work, assembles here every week-day morning at eight o’clock. -The service consists of prayers, a hymn, a short address, and an organ -recital. The Sunday congregations are large for a City church, -especially in the evenings, and on two or three occasions during the -year the church is crowded beyond the actual seating capacity--an -inspiring sight when viewed from the organ loft. - -_Chancel and Nave._--In the chancel, between the choir stalls, may be -seen the James brass, of 1591, with figure about three feet in length; -also the brass, of 1612, to “Mary, wife of John Burnell, Merch^{t}.” -Burnell presented a communion table to the church in 1613. The last -brass, but the most famous and artistic of all, is that large square -sheet of latten which is set in the pavement to the west of the Litany -desk. It dates back to 1530 and is a memorial of “Andrewe Evyngar, -Cityzen and Salter, and Ellyn his wife.” The Puritan defacements are -only too plain, yet, in spite of this, it is possible to decipher the -beaten-out lettering, which ran: “Of youre charite praye for the soules -of ... on whoos soulys Jesu have m’cy, Amen.” This brass is one of the -finest specimens of Flemish workmanship in England. Its only rivals are -brasses at Ipswich and at St. Albans. It is unnecessary to describe it -in detail; it can best be studied from the framed “rubbing” which stands -behind the choir screen in the South Aisle. - -The very fine Jacobean pulpit was erected before England had a single -colony. There it has stood during the rise of the British Empire, and it -has survived many a storm in Church and State. Though the pulpit dates -back to 1613 the sounding-board above was erected in 1638, and is -termed, in the Vestry minutes of that year, “the new pulpitt hedd.” -This sounding-board is inscribed on each of its sides with the motto: -“_Xtm pdicam crucifixum_,” which reminds us that whether the preacher in -that pulpit looks south, or east, or west, his one subject is to be -Christ crucified. The fine sword-rests, rising above the choir screen -behind the Vicar’s stall, were erected by successive Lord Mayors and -bear their respective crests, with the City coat-of-arms. The one on the -south side, the smallest of the three, was erected in 1727 by Lord Mayor -Eyles. That in the centre commemorates the mayoralty of Slingsby Bethel, -Esq., in 1755, while the remaining one was put up in 1760 when Sir -Thomas Chitty, a parishioner of Allhallows, was appointed chief citizen. -After examining the graceful ironwork of these sword-rests, the delicate -wrought-iron design beneath the pulpit-rail should by no means be passed -over. The choir screen itself, as well as the screen behind the -churchwardens’ pews at the back of the church, is worthy of study by all -who are interested in old wood-carving. - -_West End._--From north to south porch, until the 1904 restoration, -there extended an ugly, heavy gallery, which made the entrance to the -church, from either side, very gloomy. Now the former organ-loft is -rebuilt and the interior of the church, by this alteration, regains the -open appearance of earlier times. In the entrance-chamber of the tower -there is preserved a very fine leaden water-cistern on which appear the -date 1705 and the letters A·H·B, the monogram of the church, while in -the tower itself there hangs a peal of finely toned bells, eight in -number, which in 1813 replaced the bells hung, in 1659, when the present -tower was new. - -The first organ in this church was that one, already spoken of, built by -Anthony Duddyngton in 1519. Though all trace of this very early -instrument is lost, the original indenture still remains. Dr. Hopkins -says, “This is the earliest known record of the building of an organ in -England.” In 1675-77 the present organ-case was erected by Thomas and -Renatus Harris, and the organ then consisted of great and choir manuals -only; but a third manual, the swell, was added in the eighteenth -century. Hatton describes the organ-case as he saw it in 1708 as -“enriched with Fames, and the figures of Time and Death, carved in -_basso relievo_ and painted, above.” The organ was improved by Gerard -Smith in 1720, and again in 1813. It was again overhauled and enlarged -by Bunting in 1872 and 1878, was partially burnt in 1880, and -“restored” (very badly indeed) in 1881. On Sunday, 3rd November 1907, -during Evensong, this ancient instrument broke down and was not used -again. The choral services were sung by the choir either entirely -unaccompanied or supported by a pianoforte played in the chancel. The -instrument is now being rebuilt by Messrs. Harrison and Harrison, of -Durham, and this well-known firm have the problem before them of -preserving what is of historic interest in the old organ and -incorporating that in the newer and more efficient mechanism of the -organs of to-day. A complete list of organists of this church, from 1676 -to the present day, has been preserved. - -The large and fully equipped music-room at the north-west angle of the -building is where the daily practices of the choristers are held. In -addition to the fittings incidental to the work of the choir, it -contains some interesting photos of the church and two old parish plans. -The royal arms above the door, on the side of the organ-loft, used, in -Georgian days, to hang above the altar. A spacious music-, or -school-room lies over the north porch, and this portion of the building, -though modern, is quite in keeping with the ancient church to which it -is attached. Of that old church we now take leave. Though great the -history it has already made, there is perhaps as great a history for it -yet to make. - - - - -INDEX - - -Adam of Lambourne, 24 - -Adams, John Quincy, 195 - -Albemarle, Duke of, 90 - -Allhallows Barking by the Tower, 42, 74, 96, 109, 155, 169-213 - -Andrewes, Bishop, 193 - -Anne, Queen, 83 - -_Anne of Geierstein_, 40 - -Apsley, Sir William, 194 - -Arden, John, 149 - -Argyle, Marquis of, 78 - -Arundel, Earl of, 33 - -_Arx Palatina_, 21 - -Askew, Anne, 55 - -Audley, Lord, 72 - -Axe, processional, 93 - - -Badlesmere, Lady, 27 - -Bailly, Charles, 129, 130 - -Baliol, 112 - -Ballium Wall, 94, 125, 135, 137 - -Balmerino, Earl of, 164-167 - -Banqueting Hall, 113 - -Barlow, Lucy, 76 - -Bastion, North, 136 - -Beauchamp Tower, 33, 58, 61, 66, 83, 125, 131 - -Beefeaters, 93 - -Beer Lane, 23 - -Beggars, 155 - -Bell Tower, 48, 94-97 - -Bishops, Seven, 82, 99, 143, 144 - -_Black Dwarf, The_, 84 - -Block, the (_see_ Tower Hill, and Tower Green) - -Blood, Colonel, 138-143 - -Bloody Tower, 5, 73, 82, 83, 99-106 - -Blount tomb, 133 - -Boleyn, Anne, 50, 99, 107, 113, 132 - -Bowyer Tower, 41, 136, 137 - -Brackenbury, Sir Robert, 100 - -Brasses (Allhallows Barking), 187, 201, 203, 209 - -Brass Mount Battery, 138 - -Brick Tower, 103, 137 - -Broad Arrow Tower, 145 - -Buckingham, Edward, Duke of, 48, 49 - -Buckingham, Duke of (_see_ Villiers) - -Bulwark Gate, 87 - -Burdett, Sir Francis, 85 - -Burley, Sir Simon, 33 - -Byward Tower, 88, 90-93 - - -Cade rebellion, 37, 38 - -Campion, Father, 67 - -Capel, Lord Arthur, 76, 106 - -Capel, Lord, 91 - -Carew, Sir Alexander, 75 - -Casemates, 135 - -Cato Street conspiracy, 85 - -Cells, secret, 119, 145 - -Chaderton, Dean, 175 - -Chantry chapels, 173, 178 - -Chaplain’s house, 131 - -Charles I., 73-78, 105 - -Charles II., 78-81, 126, 127, 143 - -Charles Edward, Prince, 84 - -Charles, Duke of Orleans, 37, 112 - -Cholmondeley tomb, 133 - -Civil War, 75, 198 - -Clarence, Duke of, 41, 136 - -Cobham, Lord (_see_ Oldcastle) - -Cobham, Lord, 72 - -Coldharbour Tower (site of), 13 - -Coleby, 6, 127 - -Collins, Bishop (quoted), 74 - -Communion plate (St Peter’s), 133 - -Conqueror, William the, 21 - -Constable Tower, 145 - -Constable’s Garden, 99, 102, 121 - -Constable of France, 29 - -Coronation festivities, 30, 34, 40, 42, 47, 58, 65, 79 - -Council Chamber (White Tower), 32, 45, 113 - -Count d’Eu, 29 - -Count of Tankerville, 29 - -Court of Common Pleas, 108-109 - -Court of King’s Bench, 108-109 - -Coventry, Sir William, 137 - -Cradle Tower, 149 - -Croke, Sir John, 174, 188 - -Cromwell, Oliver, 76, 182 - -Cromwell, Thomas, 53, 54, 133 - -Crown Jewels (_see_ Jewels) - -Crusades, 24 - -Crypt (St. John’s Chapel), 116, 117 - -Culloden (battle), 85 - -Curfew bell, 177, 178 - -Czar’s Head Inn, 159 - - -D’Arcy, Sir John, 29 - -David Bruce (King of Scotland), 29, 112 - -Deaths in Tower cells, 67, 68, 76, 100, 106 - -Derwentwater, Earl of, 83 - -Develin Tower, 135 - -Devereux Tower, 135 - -Devereux (Earl of Essex), 99, 135 - -Dighton, John, 101 - -Dudley, Lord Guildford, 60, 61, 130 - -Dudley, John, 129 - -Dungeon, great (White Tower), 119 - - -Edward I., 26, 27, 173, 177 - -Edward II., 27-28 - -Edward III., 28-30 - -Edward IV., 40 - -Edward V., 41 - -Edward VI., 57-60 - -Edward, Earl of Warwick, 44 - -Edwards, Talbot, 133, 139, 140, 141 - -Eleanor, Queen, 25 - -Eliot, Sir John, 105, 133 - -Elizabeth, Queen, 64, 65-69, 90, 99, 113 - -Elizabeth of York, 46 - -Entrance to Tower, 88 - -Erkenwald, Bishop, 171 - -Escapes from Tower, 22, 26, 71, 77, 78, 90-92, 121-125, 149-150 - -Evyngar brass, 209 - -Executions (Tower Green), 48, 49, 52, 54, 64, 116 - (Tower Hill), 20, 33, 40, 45, 46, 47, 48, 51, 52, 53, 57, 58, - 59, 64, 65, 67, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83, 164-168, 199 - - -_Fair Maid of Perth_, 34 - -Fawkes, Guy, 72, 97, 118 - -Felton, John, 72, 106 - -Fenwick, Sir William, 82 - -Fire, Great, 80, 156, 189 - -Fisher, Bishop, 94-96, 133, 196 - -Flambard, Ralph, Bishop of Durham, 22 - -Flint Tower, 136 - -Forrest, Miles, 101 - -_Fortunes of Nigel_, 127, 128 - -Froissart (quoted), 29, 31, 114 - - -Galleyman Tower, 151 - -Gaoler, Yeoman, 93 - -Gardiner, S. R. (quoted), 33 - -Gaskarth, Dr., 192 - -Gateway, postern, 92 - -George I., 83 - -George III., 85 - -Gerard, Father, 146 - -Gibbons, Grinling, 201 - -Gloucester, Duke of (_see_ Richard III.) - -Gosse, Edmund (quoted), 57 - -Green, J. R. (quoted), 36 - -Grey, Lady Jane, 60-64, 99 - -Grey, Lord Thomas, 196 - -Griffen, son of Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, 26 - -Gundulf, Bishop of Rochester, 21, 22 - -Guns, old (Tower Green), 120 - - -Hales, Treasurer, 31, 32 - -Hamilton, Duke of, 76 - -Harvey, Lieut. Sir George, 102 - -Hastings, Lord, 115 - -Henry I., 22 - -Henry III., 24-26, 94, 106, 131, 135, 138, 152 - -Henry IV., 33, 34, 35, 114 - -Henry V., 35-37 - -Henry VI., 37-40, 107 - -Henry VII., 17, 44-46, 93 - -Henry VIII., 47-57 - -Hertford, Lord and Lady, 66 - -Hewitt, Dr. John, 76 - -Hexham, battle of, 39 - -Hickes, Dr., 161, 183, 207 - -Highlanders shot, 84 - -Holland, Earl of, 75 - -Hotham, Sir John, 75, 198, 199 - -Howard, Lady Frances, 104 - -Howard, Queen Katherine, 54, 99, 132 - -Howard, Thomas, 66 - - -_Inglesant, John_, 74 - -Inscriptions on walls, 128-130, 145, 146 - -Isabella, Queen of Edward II., 28 - -Isabella of Valois, Queen of Richard II., 33 - - -James I., 70-72, 97, 103 - -James II., 81-82, 143 - -James I. of Scotland, 34 - -Jeffreys, Judge, 82, 106, 195 - -Jewels, Crown, 17, 107, 138 - -Jews imprisoned, 27 - -Joan of the Tower, 27 - -John, King, 24 - -John II., King of France, 29, 112 - - -Keep, the (_see_ White Tower) - -Ken, Bishop, 200 - -Kenmure, Lord, 83 - -Ketch, Jack, 82 - -Kettlewell, the Non-juror, 200 - -King’s House, 121 - -King’s Justiciars, 176 - -Knighthood, order of, conferred in St. John’s Chapel, 34, 40, 47, 79 - -Knyvett, Lieutenant, 55 - - -Lancaster, Henry of (_see_ Henry IV.) - -Lansdowne, Earl of, 83 - -Lanthorn Tower, 152 - -Lambert, Colonel, 77 - -Laud, Archbishop, 5, 73, 106, 197 - -Layfield, Edward, 206 - -_Legend of Montrose_, 137 - -Legge’s Mount, 135 - -Leiburn, Sir Roger de, 176 - -Lennox, Countess of, 66 - -Lion Gate, and Tower, 88 - -Lisle, Viscount, 55 - -“Little Ease,” 118 - -Lollards, the, 35, 36 - -London Tavern (Fenchurch Street), 64 - -London Wall, 21 - -Longchamp, Chancellor, 24 - -Louis VIII. of France, 24 - -Lovat, Lord, 167 - -Love, Christopher, 76 - - -Macguire, Lord, 90 - -MacMahon, Colonel, 90 - -Mandeville, Geoffrey de, 23 - -Margaret, Queen of Henry VI., 39 - -Martin Tower, 82, 138 - -Mary, Queen, 60-65, 111, 196 - -Mason, Dr. A. J., 208 - -Menagerie, Tower, 23, 88, 89 - -Middle Tower, 89-91 - -Mint, the Royal, 162 - -Mission College of Allhallows Barking, 205, 207, 208 - -Mitre Tavern (Fenchurch Street), 164 - -Moat, the, 26, 40, 88, 90-92 - -Models of the Tower, 112 - -Modernisation of the Tower, 15-16, 120 - -Monk, General, 77 - -Monmouth, Duke of, 76, 82, 97, 99, 132 - -More, Sir Thomas, 95, 96, 99, 133 - -Mortimer, Lord, 28 - - -Nithsdale, Lord and Lady, 121-125 - -Norman Chapel (_see_ St. John’s Chapel) - -Northumberland, Duke of, John Dudley, 60, 111 - - -Oates, Titus, 81 - -O’Connor, Arthur, 85 - -Oldcastle, Sir John, 35 - -Oratory, 17, 99, 107 - -Organ (Allhallows Barking), 179, 211, 212 - -Otway, Thomas, 158 - -Overbury, Sir Thomas, 104 - -Owen, Sir John, 76 - - -Palace, royal, in Tower, 23, 108 - -Parish dinners, 157, 181 - -Parr, Samuel, 194 - -Passages, underground, 119, 136 - -Penn, William, 81, 158, 194 - -Pepys, Samuel (quoted), 77, 78, 79, 80, 97, 137, 182, 189 - -Pepys, Samuel, in Tower, 80, 81 - -Percy, Henry, Earl of Northumberland, 100 - -Perrot, Deputy, 68 - -Peter the Great, 159 - -_Peveril of the Peak_, 4-6, 126, 127 - -“Pilgrimage of Grace,” 51 - -Plague years, 195 - -Popish plot, 81 - -Portcullis (Bloody Tower), 106 - -Prince of Wales, H.R.H. the, 164 - -Prince Consort, 111 - -Princes in the Tower (Edward V. and his brother), 41, 100, 110 - -Privy Garden, 151 - -Prothero, Mr. (quoted), 96 - -Prynne, 74 - -Pulpit, Jacobean, 210 - - -“Queen Elizabeth’s Walk,” 64 - -Queen’s Garden, 146 - - -Rack, the, 117 - -Raleigh, Sir Walter, 101, 113, 137 - -Raleigh, Lady, 158 - -“Raleigh’s Cell,” 116 - -Registers, parish (Allhallows Barking), 193-199 - -Restoration, the, 78 - -Richard I., 24, 135, 173, 174 - -Richard II., 30-34, 114 - -Richard III., 39, 41, 42-44, 100, 107, 114-116, 175 - -Richard de Lucy, 23 - -Rising, Jacobite (1745), 107 - -Robinson, Dr. A. W., 208 - -Rochester, Earl of, 160 - -Rochford, Lady, 54 - -Roman Catholic prisoners, 67 - -Roman London, 172 - -Roman remains, 21, 22 - -Ros, Lord de, 133 - -Russell, William, Lord, 81 - -Rye House Plot, 81 - - -St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East, 161, 162 - -St. Ethelburga (Abbess of Barking), 171, 184 - -St. John’s Chapel (White Tower), 24, 34, 100, 110, 111 - -St. Olave’s (Hart Street), 160, 161 - -St. Peter ad Vincula, 25, 96, 105, 131-133, 143 - -St. Thomas’s Tower, 25, 48, 98, 99 - -Salisbury, Countess of, Margaret Pole, 52, 132 - -Salt Tower, 146 - -Say, Lord, 38 - -Scaffold, site of, Tower Hill, 153 - -Scott, Sir Walter, references to, 1, 3, 23, 34, 40, 126 - -Scottish prisoners, 27 - -Seething Lane, 160 - -Seymour, Jane, Queen, 50 - -Seymour, Baron Thomas, 58 - -Seymour, William, 71 - -Shakespeare, William, references to, 1, 3, 7, 8, 9, 34, 36, 38, 57, 70, 101 - -Sidney, Algernon, 81 - -Simnel, Lambert, 44 - -Slingsley, Sir Henry, 77 - -Smithfield, 36, 54, 56 - -Snayth, George, 185 - -Somerset, Protector, 58, 59, 133 - -Somerset, Robert Carr, Earl of, 104 - -Spenser, Edmund, 159 - -Stafford, William, Lord, 81 - -Stanley, Sir William, 45 - -Stapledon, Walter, Bishop of Exeter, 28 - -State apartments, 112 - -Stephen, King, 23 - -Stocks, public, 154 - -Strafford, Earl of, Thomas Wentworth, 73, 133 - -Stuart, Lady Arabella, 70, 99 - -Sudbury, Simon of, 31, 32, 111 - -Suffolk, Earl of, Edmund de la Pole, 48 - -Suicides in the Tower, 67, 68, 76, 100, 106 - -Surrey, Earl of, Henry Howard, 57, 196 - -Syndercombe, Miles, 76 - - -Talbot, Sir Gilbert, 142 - -Theodore, Archbishop, 172 - -Thomson, James, 159 - -Thynne, William, 201 - -Tiptoft, John, 174 - -Torture in Tower dungeons, 42, 55, 67, 117, 118, 146-149 - instruments of, 113 - -Tower Dock, 103 - -Tower Green, 48, 49, 50, 52, 53, 54, 64, 84, 116, 120-121 - -Tower Hill, 20, 33, 37, 40, 45, 46, 47, 51, 52, 57, 58, 59, 64, - 65, 67, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 78, 81, 82, 83, 87, 103, - 145, 153-159, 162-168 - -Tower Hill, Little, 95, 162 - -Tower of London: foundation of, 21; - beginning of its history, 21; - first prisoner, 22; - becomes Royal Palace, 23; - besieged, 24, 40; - Edward III. finds it ill guarded, 29; - mobbed in Richard II.’s reign, 32; - oldest picture of, 37; - attacked by Cade, 38; - cannon used for first time against, 40; - its darkest days, 40-43; - improved by Edward IV., 40; - prominence in Tudor times, 44; - festivities at, 46, 56; - becomes notorious as State prison, 47; - improvements in Henry VIII.’s reign, 47-48; - fires its guns upon City, 48; - attack on (Wyatt rebellion), 62; - seized in reign of Charles I., 73; - in keeping of Parliament during Civil War, 75; - in danger during Great Fire, 80; - Jacobite plot to seize, 84; - fire in, 85; - Fenian outrage in, 86 - -Tower Street, Great, 160 - -Towton Heath, battle of, 39 - -Traitor’s Gate, 25, 64, 98 - -Trevelyan, G. M. (quoted), 69, 105 - -Trinity House, 162-164 - -Trinity Square, Tower Hill, 84, 157, 166 - -Tudenham, Sir Thomas, 40 - -Turner, Mrs., 104 - -Tyler, Wat, 30, 32 - -Tyrrell, Sir James, 46, 101 - -Tyrrell, Sir William, 40 - - -United Irishmen, 85 - - -Vane, Sir Harry, 78 - -Victoria, Queen, 85, 108 - -Villiers, George, Duke of Buckingham, 80 - -Virby, Thomas, 185, 186 - - -Waad, Sir William, 102, 148 - -Wakefield Tower, 39, 106-108 - -Wallace, William, 27 - -Walpole, Sir Robert, 83 - -Walsingham, Sir Francis, 160 - -Walworth, Mayor, 31 - -Warbeck, Perkin, 45 - -Warders’ Parlour, 92 - -Warders, Yeomen, 93 - -Wars of the Roses, 37, 39 - -Warwick, the King-Maker, 39 - -_Waverley_, 84, 108 - -Welsh prisoners, 27, 34 - -Wharf, 25, 142, 150 - -White Tower, 12, 16, 22, 34, 37, 48, 86, 108, 109-120, 148 - -William the Conqueror, 21 - -William and Mary, 82-83 - -William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, 38 - -Wilton, Lord Grey de, 72, 99, 137 - -Worcester, battle of, 76 - -Wren, Sir Christopher, 83, 108, 162 - -Wriothesley, Chancellor, 55 - -Wyatt rebellion, 62, 116 - -Wyatt, Sir Henry, 42-44 - -Wycliffe’s followers imprisoned, 35 - -Wyndham, Sir John, 46 - - -_Yeomen of the Guard_ (Savoy opera), 10, 11 - -Yeomen of the Guard, 93 - - - THE END - - _Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_. - -[Illustration: THE TOWER OF LONDON - -ACCOMPANYING “THE TOWER OF LONDON,” PAINTED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I., -DESCRIBED BY ARTHUR POYSER] - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Tower of London, by Arthur Poyser - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOWER OF LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 55504-0.txt or 55504-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/5/0/55504/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Tower of London - -Author: Arthur Poyser - -Illustrator: John Fulleylove - -Release Date: September 7, 2017 [EBook #55504] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOWER OF LONDON *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="[Image of the book's -cover unavailable.]" /> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> - -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p> -<p class="c"><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></p> -<p class="c"><a href="#LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> <span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.)</span></p> -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="cb">THE TOWER OF LONDON</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="font-size:85%;"> -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2">AGENTS</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left">America</td><td align="left">The Macmillan Company</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, New York</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left">Australasia</td><td align="left">The Oxford University Press, Melbourne</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left">Canada</td><td align="left">The Macmillan Company of Canada, Ltd.</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">27 Richmond Street West, Toronto</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left">India</td><td align="left">Macmillan & Company, Ltd.</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Macmillan Building, Bombay</td></tr> -<tr class="smcap"><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">309 Bow Bazaar Street, Calcutta</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="ill_001" id="ill_001"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_002_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_002_sml.jpg" width="355" height="500" alt="THE WHITE TOWER (KEEP), WITH THE LANTHORN TOWER IN THE -FOREGROUND, FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE WHITE TOWER (KEEP), WITH THE LANTHORN TOWER IN THE -FOREGROUND, FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE</span> -</div> - -<h1> -<small>THE</small><br /> -TOWER OF LONDON</h1> - -<p class="cb"><small>PAINTED BY</small><br /> -JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I.<br /> -<br /> -<small>DESCRIBED BY</small><br /> -ARTHUR POYSER<br /> -<br /><br /> -<img src="images/colophon.png" -width="37" -alt="Image unavailable: " -/> -<br /> -<br /><br /> -PUBLISHED BY A. & C.<br /> -BLACK · LONDON · MCMVIII<br /> -</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c"> -<small>TO</small><br /> -MY FATHER<br /> -<span class="eng">Thomas Cooper Poyser</span><br /> -<small>THIS BOOK IS</small><br /> -DEDICATED<br /> -</p> - -<p> </p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Full in the midst a mighty pile arose,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where iron-grated gates their strength oppose<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To each invading step, and, strong and steep,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The battled walls arose, the fosse sunk deep.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Slow round the fortress rolled the sluggish stream,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And high in middle air the warder’s turrets gleam.<br /></span> -<span class="i12"><i>Anonymous.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> history of the Tower of London is so closely bound up with the -history of England, from the Norman Conquest onwards, that it is very -difficult to write a record of the one without appearing to have -attempted to write a record of the other. A full history of the Tower -may read like an attenuated history of England. When the problem has to -be solved within the compass of a single chapter the difficulties are -very considerably increased. Then again, if a detailed account of Tower -annals has been given in a preliminary chapter, there is nothing of any -interest left to say when describing a visit to the several buildings -within the Tower walls. If the dramatic scene in the Council Chamber of -the White Tower, which ended in Lord Hastings being sent, with scant -ceremony, to the block on the Green below by Richard III., be described -in its proper place in the Historical Sketch (Chapter II.) it cannot -again be spoken of in detail when the visit is paid (Chapter III.) to -the room in which the event took place. Yet it is beyond doubt that a -visitor to the Tower would rather be reminded of that tragic Council -meeting when in the Council Chamber itself, than come upon it in the -course of the sketch of Tower history, which he would probably have read -at home beforehand and forgotten in detail. Still, those who read this -book and have no opportunity of visiting the Tower expect that the -characters in the moving drama of its history shall have some semblance -of life as they walk across the stage. Such a reader demands more than -mere names and dates, or he will skip an historical chapter as being -intolerably dull. It is no consolation to him to be told that if he will -take patience and walk through and round the Tower, in imagination, by -keeping his temper and kindly reading Chapters III. and IV., he will -discover that much of the human interest omitted in the “history” will -be found by the wayside in the “walks.”</p> - -<p>In former and larger books on the Tower it will be seen that either the -purely historical record under the headings of successive Kings and -Queens dwarfs to insignificance the account of the buildings themselves, -or the description of the several towers and buildings which constitute -the fortress-prison occupies the bulk of the volume, to the exclusion of -any adequate historical record giving names and dates in chronological -order. But like most difficulties, I think this one can be solved by a -judicious compromise; the chapters must be tuned to “equal temperament.” -I have endeavoured to keep the balance of the several sections as even -as possible; and an historic candidate for the honour of the headsman’s -axe, who has been given immortality in the pages of English history by -reason of the manner in which he was put to death, passed over in one -chapter will have some justice done to his memory in another.</p> - -<p>I have attempted no pictorial description of the Tower as a whole or in -its several parts. I dared not carry the theory I have just propounded -into the realms of word-painting. Mr. Fulleylove has relieved me of that -duty. He has brought the Tower buildings, as they stand to-day, before -the eyes of all who turn these pages. This he has done with the brush -infinitely better than I could do it with the pen.</p> - -<p>Though the pages at my disposal are so few in number, I have had the -temerity to attempt a description of much that is of interest outside -Tower walls. I trust that this boldness may not prove, after all, to be -a misplaced virtue. My wish has been to persuade those who come to visit -the Tower that there is a great deal to be seen in its immediate -vicinity that the majority of visitors have hitherto neglected, either -for want of time or want of guidance. A noble and historic building like -the Tower resembles a venerable tree whose roots have spread into the -soil in all directions, during the uncounted years of its existence, far -beyond the position of its stem.</p> - -<p>I tender grateful thanks to Lieutenant-General Sir George Bryan Milman, -K.C.B., Major of the Tower, for much kindness, both to Mr. Fulleylove -and myself; and I can hardly express my indebtedness to the Rev. W. K. -Fleming, who has so ungrudgingly given of his time to the task of -correcting the proof-sheets.</p> - -<p class="r"> -ARTHUR POYSER.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="hang"> -<span class="smcap">Trinity Square,<br /> -Tower Hill, E.C.</span><br /> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></th></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">Historical Sketch</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_021">21</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">A Walk through the Tower</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_087">87</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">A Walk round the Tower</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_134">134</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">Tower Hill</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_158">158</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2" class="c"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><span class="smcap">Allhallows Barking by the Tower</span></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_169">169</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a>: -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>.</td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_215">215</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">When our gallant Norman foes<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Made our merry land their own,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">And the Saxons from the Conqueror were flying,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">At his bidding it arose,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">In its panoply of stone,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">A sentinel unliving and undying.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Insensible, I trow,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">As a sentinel should be,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Though a queen to save her head should come a-suing;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">There’s a legend on its brow<br /></span> -<span class="i2">That is eloquent to me,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">And it tells of duty done and duty doing.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“The screw may twist and the rack may turn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And men may bleed and men may burn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">On London town and all its hoard<br /></span> -<span class="i1">It keeps its solemn watch and ward!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Within its wall of rock<br /></span> -<span class="i2">The flower of the brave<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Have perished with a constancy unshaken. - - <br /></span> -<span class="i0">From the dungeon to the block,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">From the scaffold to the grave,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Is a journey many gallant hearts have taken.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And the wicked flames may hiss<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Round the heroes who have fought<br /></span> -<span class="i4">For conscience and for home in all its beauty,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">But the grim old fortalice<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Takes little heed of aught<br /></span> -<span class="i4">That comes not in the measure of its duty.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“The screw may twist and the rack may turn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And men may bleed and men may burn,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">On London town and all its hoard<br /></span> -<span class="i1">It keeps its solemn watch and ward!”<br /></span> -<span class="i11"><span class="smcap">Sir William Gilbert.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td> </td><td> </td><td class="rt"><small>FACING PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_001">1.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_001">The White Tower (Keep), with the Lanthorn Tower in the Foreground, from the Tower Bridge</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#ill_001"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_002">2.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_002">The Byward and Bell Towers, with the King’s House on the right, looking from the Traitor’s Gate</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_008">8</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_003">3.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_003">Top of the Portcullis in Bloody Tower</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_024">24</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_004">4.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_004">Portion of the Armoury, White Tower</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_040">40</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_005">5.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_005">Panorama of the Tower and Greenwich in 1543, by Anthony van den Wyngaerde</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_048">48 and 49</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_006">6.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_006">The Council Chamber in the King’s House</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_056">56</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_007">7.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_007">Gateway of Bloody Tower with entrance to Jewel House (Wakefield Tower)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_080">80</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_008">8.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_008">Middle Tower (West Front)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_009">9.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_009">The Traitor’s Gate, from within</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_098">98</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_010">10.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_010">The Bloody Tower and Jewel House (Wakefield Tower), looking East</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_104">104</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_011">11.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_011">Interior of St. John’s Chapel in the White Tower, looking East</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_112">112</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_012">12.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_012">The King’s House from Tower Green</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_120">120</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_013">13.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_013">Principal Room, for State Prisoners, in the Beauchamp Tower</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_014">14.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_014">Chaplain’s House, and Entrance to Church of St. Peter ad Vincula, Tower Green</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_132">132</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_015">15.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_015">Part of a Bastion of Old London Wall, with Clock Tower of the White Tower</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_136">136</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_016">16.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_016">East End of St. John’s Chapel in the White Tower, from Broad Arrow Tower</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_146">146</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_017">17.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_017">The Tower from the Tower Bridge, looking West</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_150">150</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_018">18.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_018">The Tower from Tower Hill</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_156">156</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_019">19.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_019">The Block, Axe, and Executioner’s Mask</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_166">166</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_020">20.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_020">A True and Exact Draught of the Tower Liberties, surveyed in the year 1597 by Gulielmus Haiward and J. Gascoyne</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_172">172 and 173</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_021">21.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_021">The Tower from Great Tower Street (South Porch of Allhallows Barking)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_184">184</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="rt" valign="top"><a href="#ill_022">22.</a></td><td valign="top"><a href="#ill_022">Church of Allhallows Barking by the Tower (East side of South Aisle)</a></td><td class="rt" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="c" colspan="2"><a href="#ill_023"><i>Sketch Plan of the Tower at end of Volume.</i></a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a>{1}</span></p> - -<h1>THE TOWER OF LONDON</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /><br /> -<small>INTRODUCTION</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">If I were ance at London Tower<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Where I was wont to be,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I never mair suld gang frae hame<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Till borne on a bier tree.<br /></span> -<span class="i8"><i>Old Scots Ballad.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> Tower as palace and prison has been singularly neglected in -literature. When we consider the part it has played in our history, how -closely it is knit up in the woof and web of our national life, from -far-off days when England had not risen to the measure of her greatness, -down to the last Hanoverian, this fact surprises us. Shakespeare might -well have laid all the scenes of another <i>Hamlet</i> within its walls; -Scott might have given its name to another Waverley Novel. The -possibilities are endless. If Scott had touched it we should have been -spared the gloomy sentimentalities<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a>{2}</span> of Ainsworth; Shakespeare, in five -acts, could have given us a truer picture of Tower comedy and tragedy -than the tomes of Bayley and De Ros. Scott would have cast the same -romance over the Tower as he did over the rugged strip of land that lies -between Callander and Inversnaid. We do not go to the Trossachs because -we have read of it in a gazetteer, nor would we seek the Forest of Arden -because we desired to walk in a wood. Burnham Beeches would serve the -purpose equally well. But we go to the Tower because we have some vague -idea that in our school-days we remember it having been mentioned, -during the history lesson, as a place where men were put into dungeons, -sometimes tortured, frequently beheaded. We have some indistinct notion, -too, that our earlier kings lived there, but whether they lived there at -the same time as the men of State they had imprisoned, executed, or -burnt, we should not like to say off-hand. And if the Court was held -here in the Tower, we have never tried to imagine in what part of the -building it could have been properly accommodated. We can accept -Whitehall and Windsor without a murmur, for the very names suggest -kingliness and ample space. But—the Tower! It seems too grim and -grimy,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a>{3}</span> too insignificant in position, too circumscribed to conjure up -visions of olden pageantries of State. It is just here that the -master-hand would have changed our view. A tragedy for the stage of the -Blackfriars Theatre or the Globe in Southwark, the work of a month of -summer mornings at Abbotsford, or of winter afternoons in Castle Street, -would have fixed for all time the essentials in the picture, and we -should have gone to the Tower with the definite aim of seeing the walls -wherein a Malvolio strutted, where a Macbeth made murder, or where a -Romeo pined. As we walked over Tower Green we might have expected to -meet a Dandie Dinmont with the Peppers and Mustards at his heels, a -Rashleigh lurking by, a Dugald Dalgetty of Drumthwacket discussing the -merits of Rhenish wine and <i>Kirschenwasser</i> with the yeomen warders. Had -we lived in the Tower through the greater part of a book, as we are shut -up in Loch Leven Castle with Queen Mary in <i>The Abbot</i>, we should have -visited again and again the rooms and cells in which, with Roland Graeme -and the Douglases, we had spent so unforgettable a time in our lives.</p> - -<p>It is true that Shakespeare lays scenes of his historical plays in the -Tower, and that Scott brings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a>{4}</span> Julian Peveril and Nigel within its -Traitor’s Gate, for a space; but the dramatist is merely copying -locality from the history books, and the novelist is so impatient with -the fate that has carried two of his young men under the archway of the -Bloody Tower that he cuts off his chapter with the words, “But the -thoughts and occurrences of a prison are too uniform for a narrative, -and we must now convey our readers into a more bustling scene.” Really, -Sir Walter, this is too scant an excuse to drive us out of one of the -most wonderful buildings in the world to “the spacious mansion of the -Duke of Buckingham with the demesne belonging to it,” the foundations of -which are now covered by the Hotel Cecil, and the “demesne” blotted out -by the buildings of the Strand and the Adelphi.</p> - -<p>“The tide carried them up under a dark and lowering arch, closed at the -upper end by the well-known Traitor’s Gate, formed like a wicket of huge -intersecting bars of wood, through which might be seen a dim and -imperfect view of soldiers and warders upon duty, and of the steep -ascending causeway which leads up from the river into the interior of -the fortress. By this gate—and it is the well-known circumstance which -assigned its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a>{5}</span> name—those accused of State crimes were usually committed -to the Tower. The Thames afforded a secret and silent mode of conveyance -for transporting thither such whose fallen fortunes might move the -commiseration, or whose popular qualities might excite the sympathy, of -the public; and even where no cause for especial secrecy existed, the -peace of the city was undisturbed by the tumult attending the passage of -the prisoner and his guards through the most frequented streets.” Here -we have the beginning of quite an admirable Tower romance. Our hero -lands at the fatal steps, and as he walks up under the Bloody Tower a -handkerchief is dropped down from the window of the cell in which -Archbishop Laud was imprisoned. From within that darkened room “a female -voice, in a tone wherein grief and joy were indescribably mixed, -exclaimed, ‘My son!—my dear son!’<span class="lftspc">”</span> We feel our plot moves quickly when -the warder picks up the mysterious bit of cambric and “looks at it with -the jealous minuteness of one who is accustomed to detect secret -correspondence in the most trifling acts of intercourse.</p> - -<p>“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>There may be writing on it with invisible ink,’ said one of his -comrades.</p> - -<p>“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>It is wetted, but I think it is only with tears,’<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a>{6}</span> answered the -senior. ‘I cannot keep it from the poor gentleman.’</p> - -<p>“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>Ah, Master Coleby,’ said his comrade, in a gentle tone of reproach, -‘you would have been wearing a better coat than a yeoman’s to-day had it -not been for a tender heart.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p>“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>It signifies little,’ said old Coleby, ‘while my heart is true to my -King, what I feel in discharging my duty, or what coat keeps my old -bosom from the cold weather.’<span class="lftspc">”</span></p> - -<p>Spoken like a true son of the old Tower, we say, and feel ourselves -already with Peveril listening to the warders’ talk as they take him to -his cell. We begin to breathe the Tower atmosphere, we hear a groan from -one cell, the clank of chains from another; we see a young yeoman -whispering words of love into the ear of a maid who was born and has -grown up within the battlements that bound us on all sides, and we see -some boys at play round the spot where to-morrow a human being may -suffer death. And over all this little world within the walls, where -comedy and tragedy shake hands each day, rises the Conqueror’s Norman -keep unchanged and unchangeable. Here is a quarry indeed in which to dig -for material for a whole series of novels and plays, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a>{7}</span> yet Sir Walter -beheads our little romance on Tower Green, and spirits us away “into a -more bustling scene.”</p> - -<p>Shakespeare brings us to the Tower four times in the course of the three -parts of <i>King Henry VI.</i> and four times during <i>King Richard III.</i> In -the former play we witness the death of the imprisoned Edmund Mortimer; -in the fourth act of Part II. there is a short Tower scene of a dozen -lines; the sixth scene of Part III. Act IV., headed “A room in the -Tower,” brings us to King Henry asking the Lieutenant of the Tower what -fees incurred during his (the King’s), captivity are due to him; and in -the sixth scene of the last act of the same part, we are again in “A -room in the Tower,” where “King Henry is discovered sitting with a book -in his hand, the Lieutenant attending.” Here, in the course of the -scene, Henry is stabbed by Gloucester, and with the words, “O, God -forgive my sins, and pardon thee!” dies. In <i>Richard III.</i> when, in the -first act, we are taken into the “room in the Tower” in which Clarence -is murdered, and see the evil deed performed as, later in the play, we -are again in the Tower at the smothering of the sleeping Princes, we -feel that Shakespeare has in these moving scenes brought<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a>{8}</span> before our -eyes the grim reality of two evil deeds done in secret within the -prison-house set up by William the Norman and Henry III. But here, -again, our dramatist is only telling over again the story told in -England’s records, and it is all a tale of unrelieved gloom. That is why -we have come to associate the Tower with murder, torture, and evil -passions. We forget that the sun shone on the Royal Palace, on the -Green, and even sent a beam of its rays into many a dreary cell; that -flowers grew in the constable’s garden and made fragrance there as -sweetly as in the cottage gardens deep down in the quietude of the -shires; that jailors and warders had not invariably hearts of stone; -that prisoners by taking thought and snatching an instant opportunity -had found a way through the walls, then to a boat on the river, and so -to liberty. In describing the shifts and hopes and disappointments that -at last reached their close in so happy a “curtain,” we would wish our -dramatist had been moved to write another <i>All’s Well That Ends Well</i>, -with a Tower background.</p> - -<p>When we discover Prince Henry, Poins, and old Sir John at their “deep -drinking” at the Boar’s Head Tavern, we feel we have the Eastcheap of -the early fifteenth century re-created for us, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a>{9}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_002" id="ill_002"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_003_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_003_sml.jpg" width="346" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: THE BYWARD AND BELL TOWERS, WITH THE KING’S HOUSE ON THE -RIGHT, LOOKING FROM THE TRAITOR’S GATE" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE BYWARD AND BELL TOWERS, WITH THE KING’S HOUSE ON THE -RIGHT, LOOKING FROM THE TRAITOR’S GATE</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">that is because Shakespeare is allowing his fancy free play and is not -bound down to the repetition of mere historical facts. So would we have -gained had he dealt thus with the Tower and laid a stage-romance there, -as well as the portions of the strictly historical plays we have already -referred to. The history of the Tower, as the history of other places, -will give us names of famous men and the numbering of years in plenty, -but of the inner everyday life of some early century there—nothing. It -is only the skilful in stagecraft and romance that dare touch the Tower -to turn its records to such uses; men of less skill fail, and give us -novels and plays that make weary reading and weary sitting-out. Many a -tale has been penned of the times of the Papist prosecution, for -instance, into which the people of the Tower have been brought, but so -feeble has the grasp of the subject been that we turn to actual history -for the “real romance” and exclaim, with greater conviction than ever, -that fact is more wonderful than fiction.</p> - -<p>It has been said that “the distinctive charm of the historical novel is -that it seems to combine fact and fiction in a way that tickles the -intellectual palate. In conversation we are interested in a story if -some one we know is an actor in it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a>{10}</span> Historical fiction has a like -piquancy because it mingles men and women known to tradition and history -with fictitious heroes and heroines and minor characters. Then life is -large and important; we learn what it is to be of some service to the -State; we feel the fascination of great causes and great leaders, the -reviving influence of the liberty of wide spaces in time and distance. -There we breathe an ampler ether, a diviner air,” and in spite of Sir -Leslie Stephen, who characterises the historical romance as “pure cram -or else pure fiction,” we prefer to have our history made living for us -by the touch of a Shakespeare or a Scott.</p> - -<p>To come to our own day, I can imagine no more delightful excursion into -the brighter side of Tower romance than the wholly fictitious but -happily conceived Savoy opera, <i>The Yeomen of the Guard</i>. Who can look -upon the White Tower here, after seeing its model on the Savoy stage, -and yet not remember the delicious melodies of the opera? The very -spirit of Tower times of long ago, of Tower griefs and joys, of Tower -quips and cranks and lilting songs, seems brought before us in the -theatre when, on the rising of the curtain, we look across Tower Green, -see the gable-end of St. Peter’s Church, and have the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a>{11}</span> huge bulk of the -central keep reaching up toward the blue heaven. And the little comedy -brings the old Tower nearer to our hearts, and, perhaps, to our -understanding. We see it is quite possible for men to love and laugh and -dance even if to-morrow they see a comrade meet death on the very spot -where they had held merriment with the strolling players. It is all very -human, very full of life’s sunshine, though it is felt and known that -behind it all there is suffering bravely borne and deeper sorrow yet to -come. But we applaud the daring of librettist and musician; complete -success has justified all. Here, again, we are safe in master hands. We -have been led down a by-way in Tower history by plot and counter-plot, -with fragrant music for our cheer. When we come again to the actual -Tower of to-day, lying, it may be, under a summer sky, we should like to -find Phœbe sitting on the Green at her spinning-wheel, singing “When -maiden loves,” or see Jack Point teaching the surly jailor and -“assistant tormentor,” Wilfred Shadbolt, to be a jester.</p> - -<p>It is by such paths that boys and maidens should be led to the right -understanding of Tower history. Appeal to their imagination first; give -them a typical day in the old life of the place,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a>{12}</span> and so clothe the mere -skeleton of dates and isolated facts. I often wonder what impression of -the Tower a child brings away after a hurried Christmas holiday visit on -a “free day” when the place is little more than a glorified show. To the -child, the Jewel-room can only appeal as something very like the -shop-window of a Bond Street jeweller, and much less easy, in the -jostling crowd, to get a glimpse of. A benevolent warder will hurry the -family party through the dungeons, and keep up a running commentary of -dates and names of statesmen, traitors, and kings, covering vast spaces -of English history in a single breath. The White Tower will, that night, -re-appear in the child’s dreams as a branch of the Army and Navy Stores, -where they have nicely polished armour on view; where there is a -wonderful collection of swords and bayonets displayed on the walls in -imitation of sunflowers; where policemen will allow you to move in one -direction only, and forbid you to turn back to see anything you may have -omitted or passed too hurriedly; where Queen Elizabeth appears to be -preserved in a glass case and wears remarkably well; and where large -whitewashed vaults, in which are kept cannons sent by the King, suggest -the lower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a>{13}</span> regions of South Kensington Museum and not the -torture-chamber of Guy Fawkes. If that child in the air and sunshine of -the following morning does not take a dislike to the Tower as a rather -gloomy Madame Tassaud’s, and too festive a prison, it will be surprising -indeed.</p> - -<p>The Tower buildings at the present day have been treated in a manner -that destroys all illusion. It is the fault of economy and compromise. -The attempt has been made to convert the old buildings into -dwelling-places with modern comforts, and to accommodate there not only -the families of the warders but also a military garrison. The warders -live in the smaller towers, and these, though full of historic interest, -are closed to the public. For the convenience of the garrison a paternal -War Office has caused to be erected, on the ground where the old -Coldharbour Tower stood, the most unsightly building it is possible to -conceive within Tower walls. But the putting-up of such a monstrosity -convinces one that the greatest want of the present age is imagination. -The men who could plan, and then construct in brick and sandstone these -“quarters,” must have been those who were hurried through the old -fortress in their youth, and who, like the child we have mentioned,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a>{14}</span> -took a not unnatural dislike to His Majesty’s Tower. In no other way can -the blunder be accounted for.</p> - -<p>In spite of the cheapening and vulgarising of the Tower by Governments -and State officials, it retains a surprising hold on the people. Even -the mill-hands of Lancashire, surging up to London to witness a football -“cup-tie,” think their visit to London incomplete until they have walked -through the Tower. But whatever impressions may be on their minds when -they have “done” the building, these impressions are rudely brushed away -in the subsequent excitement at Sydenham. It would be interesting to -hear their reply to the question, “And what did you think of the Tower -of London?” when they returned to their friends and relations in the -North-country. It would certainly give an excellent idea of the result -of years of School Board education, of free-library reading, and a visit -to the actual scene of historic events. The cell where Raleigh wrote is -looked upon with lack-lustre eye by the youth whose one idea of -literature is the football edition of the evening papers.</p> - -<p>The Tower itself is the most precious jewel in the nation’s Crown. It is -the epitome of English<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a>{15}</span> history. From the Norman Conquest to the day -that has just dawned we have something here to remind us of our storied -past. It might be the most interesting spot in England to young and to -old alike. In these days of rush and turmoil and ceaseless activities, -it might be the one corner of modern London where the present is quelled -in its noise, and stayed in its hurry, to contemplate the past. These -buildings might well be revered by those who are hardly yet conscious of -their value; they, at least, might be spared the impertinent aggressions -of to-day. A commercial age has committed one unforgivable crime in -pulling down Crosby Hall to erect a bank, and we may well ask ourselves -if the Tower itself is safe from such vandalism. Again, it is want of -imagination. Our city magnates can appreciate a bank, with its hideous -granite pillars and its vapid ornamentations, but an ancient hall which -Shakespeare has touched with his magic pen is of no “practical” use, -mark you! It is a result of the detestable gospel of get-on-or-get-out, -and as our old buildings are incapable of going-on they must go-out.</p> - -<p>Our fear may well be lest the modernising of the Tower, and the erection -within the walls of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a>{16}</span> wholly characterless piles that would be considered -unworthy of place even in a rising suburb, will in time destroy our -sense of the value of any of the buildings bequeathed to us from -earliest times. Little by little the boys of to-day, who will be the -citizens of the day after to-morrow, will come to look at the Tower as a -very ill-painted showroom, or as none too spacious a place to -accommodate a garrison. It must, we may hear them say when they become -men of importance, either be brought up to date as an exhibition of -antiquities, or be rebuilt to meet increasing military requirements. All -this is conceivable; few things are held sacred nowadays, as we know to -our sorrow.</p> - -<p>The spirit of the twentieth century is alien from the spirit still -brooding over the Tower, and which has not been quite dispelled by -latter-day encroachments. Yet, when we find the great dungeon under the -White Tower wired for electric light, we begin to wonder what the end -will be. May we not hope that wiser counsels will prevail and that we -shall have the Tower restored—in the better sense of the term—to -something of its appearance in Elizabethan and Jacobean times? How -refreshing it would be to leave the traffic of Great Tower Street behind -and pass into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a>{17}</span> tranquillity of Shakespeare’s day, as we entered the -Tower gateway. The modern policeman should no longer repeat the -irritating cry, “Get your tickets! Get your tickets!” at the foot of -Tower Hill; the wretched refreshment shed, which all visitors are -compelled to pass through, should no longer assail us on our entry with -its close atmosphere savouring of stale buns. Even on “free days” this -“ticket” procedure has to be gone through solemnly, and the turnstiles -to be pushed round to satisfy some mystic regulation. It is all very -suggestive of a circus, and reminds us that, as a nation, we are -singularly lacking in the sense of humour. The stage-lighting effects in -connection with the Crown Jewels in the Wakefield Tower certainly charm -the glitter-loving multitude, but this dazzling cageful of royal gold -plate stands, we are apt to forget, in a room where Henry VI. had an -oratory, and where, tradition tells, he was “murdered in cold blood as -he knelt before the altar that stood in the recess of the south-east -corner” of the chamber. Here was committed “one of the most barbarous -murders that even the Tower has recorded in its blood-stained annals,” -as one authority has it; but who to-day has leisure to think of this -when told to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a>{18}</span> “move on,” as one of the crowd surging round the regalia -cage, by yet another policeman who might have just come in from the -duties of regulating motor omnibuses in the Strand?</p> - -<p>I dwell on these points in order to show how hopeless it is to catch any -of the real spirit and message of the Tower when to-day, to-day, to-day, -is ever intruding itself. We ask for leisure to contemplate a far-off -yesterday, and to teach the boys and girls we take to the Tower -something of the value of the Tower buildings as concrete embodiments of -England’s noble history; but we are only permitted to walk hurriedly in -one specified direction, and illusion is destroyed at every point. I -should like, however, to say, lest I may be misunderstood, that from the -Tower officials one receives nothing but courtesy. They are not to -blame. They are performing the duties imposed on them from without. The -pity is that the restless spirit of the age should have found its way -within walls hallowed to memories of England’s kings, and the sufferings -of her greatest and worthiest men. Were that spirit denied all access to -this one spot, lying in the heart of modern London, a visit to the Tower -would mean to young and old alike very much more than it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a>{19}</span> means to-day. -The feeling of reverence, which is so sadly lacking in people of all -ranks of life, might once again be shown by all who entered these solemn -portals.</p> - -<p>It is in the hope that a record of Tower history and romance presented -anew, in the form which this volume takes, may deepen the interest in -and the love for the Tower of London, that this book was written. It -does not attempt within its narrow limits to give a detailed and -exhaustive account of occurrences; that has been admirably done by -others before now. But it does attempt, by the aid of carefully prepared -pictures, to recreate not only what has been bequeathed to us from a -fascinating past, but also the life and colour of the Tower as it stands -to-day, in its less-spoiled aspects.</p> - -<p>A dry repetition of facts and dates may make an accurate history for the -scholar’s shelves, but it would remain unread by all else. Such books -have their place, and a worthy place, but they would not convey to the -mind of one who has never seen the Tower, a really adequate conception -of its past and present. This book may fail to bring the Tower in all -its strange charm to the heart and mind of a lonely reader on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a>{20}</span> -prairies of Manitoba or in the Australian bush, but the attempt has been -made, and it is not for writer or artist to say whether it has been -achieved or not.</p> - -<p>As I look from my window day by day across Tower Hill at the noble old -buildings lying beyond, and watch them when silhouetted against a -morning sky or lit up by the glow of evening sunshine, I often wonder if -justice can ever be done to them now that we have no Shakespeare and no -Walter Scott. While walking in the garden, wherein is set the stone that -records the last execution in 1747 on that blood-stained spot, one -cannot but contemplate the possibility of even this solemn place being -some day violated by the hands of those who scheme out city -“improvements.” Still, one may hope that England in her heart will -ponder these things, and will save the Tower and Tower Hill from -vandalism; that she will realise more and more as years roll on what a -precious heritage she has here—a heritage that was born at her birth, -has grown with her growth, and may not be destroyed while she breeds -strong sons to guard her treasures.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a>{21}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /><br /> -<small>HISTORICAL SKETCH</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">’Tis all a Chequer-board of Nights and Days<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where Destiny with Men for Pieces plays:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Hither and thither moves, and mates, and slays,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And one by one back in the Closet lays.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><span class="smcap">Omar Khayyam.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> protoplasm from which the present Tower grew was a rude Celtic fort -on the river slope of Tower Hill. Then came the Romans and built their -London Wall, at the angle of which, commanding the Thames seawards, they -also constructed a fortress. A portion of this <i>Arx Palatina</i> can still -be seen to the east of the White Tower. But no part of this Roman work -remains in the present Tower, though Shakespeare speaks of Julius -Cæsar’s Tower in <i>Richard II.</i></p> - -<p>Tower history, as we know it in any detail, begins with the Conquest. -The Conqueror set Gundulf, a well-travelled monk of the monastery<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a>{22}</span> of -Bec, who had seen many beautiful buildings in the course of his -wanderings, to work on the low ground between the hill and the river, -and there, on the camping-ground of the Britons and the Romans, arose -the White Tower, completed about 1078. Gundulf was not only a builder -but an administrator, and the chronicles tell us that, as Bishop of -Rochester, where he rebuilt the Cathedral, he was most earnest in the -discharge of his episcopal duties.</p> - -<p>When we reach the reign of Henry I. we have tidings of our first -prisoner, Ralph Flambard, Bishop of Durham. He was immured for illegally -raising funds for the upkeep of this very fortress, but had no desire to -remain long an inmate within the walls he had been so anxious, -aforetime, to preserve. A rope was conveyed to him in a wine-cask. With -the wine he “fuddled his keepers”; with the rope he proceeded to lower -himself down the outer wall of the White Tower, and, not at all alarmed -at finding the rope too short and his arrival on the ground somewhat -sudden, he was able to mount on horseback, ride to a seaport, and embark -for Normandy. Subsequently he returned to Durham, where he completed the -Cathedral and built Norham<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a>{23}</span> Castle, in which Scott lays the opening -scene of <i>Marmion</i>.</p> - -<p>The Tower now became a royal palace and remained the dwelling-place of -the Kings of England, or, at times, the stronghold to which they would -retire when danger threatened, until the days of Charles II. At this -early period of its history, too, it was found that a collection of wild -beasts would lend some zest to life within its walls. This royal -menagerie was located on the ground where the ticket-office and -refreshment-rooms now stand, and was removed in 1834. It is said that -the term “going to see the lions” of a place arose from the fashionable -habit of visiting the Tower lions, and the lane off Great Tower Street, -just beyond Allhallows Barking, was at one time not Beer but <i>Bear</i> -Lane, and evidently led down to the pits in which the bears were -expected to provide amusement for Court circles. Stephen kept -Whitsuntide in the Tower in 1140, and in that year the Tower was in the -charge of Geoffrey de Mandeville, who had accompanied the Conqueror to -England, but in 1153 it was held for the Crown by Richard de Lucy, Chief -Justiciary of England, in trust for Henry of Anjou, and to him it -reverted on Stephen’s death. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a>{24}</span> a popular superstition at this time -that the red appearance of the mortar used in binding the Tower walls -was caused by the blood of beasts having been mixed with it in the -making; but the ruddy tint was really the result of an admixture of -pulverised Roman bricks with the lime. When Richard I. went off to the -Crusades the Tower was left in the keeping of his Chancellor, Longchamp; -and King John, on usurping the throne, laid siege to the fortress, which -Longchamp surrendered to him. In 1215 the Tower was again besieged, this -time by the barons and the citizens of London, but though the stronghold -had but a poor garrison it held out successfully. In 1216 the rebellious -nobles handed over the custody of the Tower to the Dauphin, Louis, but -he appears to have considered the task too irksome, and “speedily -returned to his own land.”</p> - -<p>One of the greatest names in Tower history is that of Henry III., who -appointed Adam of Lambourne master-mason of the buildings, and began to -build and rebuild, to adorn and to beautify, never satisfied until he -had made the Tower of London a royal dwelling-place indeed. To the -Norman Chapel in the White Tower he gave stained glass and decorated -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a>{25}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_003" id="ill_003"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_004_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_004_sml.jpg" width="379" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: THE PORTCULLIS IN BLOODY TOWER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE PORTCULLIS IN BLOODY TOWER</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">walls with frescoes; to St. Peter’s, on Tower Green, he gave a set of -bells. He constructed the Wharf, and the massive St. Thomas’s Tower and -Traitor’s Gate were set up by him. But he had his difficulties to -contend with. These additions to the fortification were unpopular with -the citizens without the walls, and when a high tide washed away the -Wharf, and, undermining the foundations of the new tower over Traitor’s -Gate, brought it twice to the ground, the people rejoiced, hoping the -King would own that Fate was against him. But after each disaster his -only comment seems to have been “Build it stronger!” and there is -Henry’s Wharf and St. Thomas’s Tower (recently restored) to this day. -Henry also built the outer wall of the Tower facing the Moat, and in -many other ways made the place a stronghold sure. The wisdom of what had -been done was soon made manifest, for Henry had many a time to take -refuge within Tower walls while rebellious subjects howled on the slopes -of Tower Hill. For their unkind treatment of his wife, Queen Eleanor, -Henry never forgave the people of London, and so defied them from within -what had really become his castle walls. Eleanor was avaricious, proud, -arrogant, and became so unpopular<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a>{26}</span> that, when on one occasion she had -left the Wharf by water, for Westminster, she was received, as her barge -came into view of London Bridge, with such execrations and shouts of -“Drown the witch!” or sounds to that effect, that she returned in terror -to the Tower. In 1244 Griffin, son of Llewellyn, was brought as prisoner -to the White Tower and detained as a hostage. He attempted to emulate -the redoubtable Flambard by making a rope of his bedclothes and dropping -from his window, by such means, to the ground. But he had forgotten to -take the weight of his body into his calculations; he was a stout man, -his hastily constructed rope was insecure, it broke as he hung upon the -wall of the Tower, and he was killed by the fall.</p> - -<p>Edward I., when he returned from the Holy Land, made the last additions -of any consequence that were ever made to the Tower buildings. The Moat -was formed in his day and put then into much of its present shape; it -has, of course, been cleaned out and deepened from time to time, though -there was always more mud than water in its basin, and, at one period, -it was considered an offence that lead to instant death for any man to -be discovered bathing therein, probably because he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a>{27}</span> was almost certain -to die from the effects of a dip in such fluid as was to be found there! -Multitudes of Jews were imprisoned in the dungeons under the White Tower -in this reign on the charge of “clipping” the coin of the realm, and the -Welsh and Scottish wars were the cause of many notable warriors, such as -the Earls of Athol, Menteith, and Ross, King Baliol and his son Edward, -and, in 1305, the patriot William Wallace, being given habitation in -Tower dungeons. The noble Wallace, bravest of Scots, was put to death at -Smithfield after some semblance of trial in Westminster Hall. But his -name will never be forgotten, for it is enshrined by Burns in one of the -noblest of Scottish songs.</p> - -<p>Edward II. had no great partiality towards the Tower as a palace, but -often retired there when in danger. In 1322 his eldest daughter was born -here, and, from the place of her birth, was called Joan of the Tower. -She lived to become, by marrying David Bruce, Queen of Scotland in 1327. -We hear of the first woman to be imprisoned in Tower walls about this -time—Lady Badlesmere—for refusing hospitality to Queen Isabella, and -giving orders that the royal party was to be attacked as it approached -her castle of Leeds, in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a>{28}</span> Kent. Lord Mortimer, a Welsh prisoner, -contrived to escape from his dungeon by the old expedient of making his -jailors drunk. He escaped to France, but soon returned, and with -Edward’s Queen, Isabella, was party to Edward’s death at Berkeley -Castle, whither the King had fled from London. The Tower had been left -in the care of Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, but the unfortunate man was -seized by a mob of turbulent citizens, dragged into Cheapside, and there -put to death. Poor Stapledon was a man of exemplary character and a -generous patron of learning. He founded Exeter College, Oxford, and -beautified Exeter Cathedral.</p> - -<p>The rebel Mortimer and Queen Isabella thought it prudent to keep the -young Edward III. within Tower walls in a state of semi-captivity, but -the lad’s spirit was such that he soon succeeded in casting off the -restraint and threw himself on the goodwill of his people. Mortimer was -captured at Nottingham, brought to the Tower, then hanged, drawn, and -quartered at Tyburn Elms—where the Marble Arch now stands. The young -King’s wars in France and Scotland were begun, and after the capture of -Caen, over three hundred of its wealthiest men were brought to the -Tower,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a>{29}</span> together with the Constable of France, the Count d’Eu, and the -Count of Tankerville. It was while making preparations for this French -war that Edward resided in the Tower and came to know its weakness and -its strength. He placed a powerful garrison within its battlements when -he set off for Normandy, but he was not satisfied in his heart with the -state of his royal fortress. Returning secretly from France, and landing -one November night at the Wharf, he found, as he had expected, the place -but ill guarded. The Governor, the Chancellor, and several other -officers were imprisoned for neglect of their duties, and the King set -his house in order. The Scottish King, David Bruce, was captured at -Neville’s Cross in 1346, and Froissart describes how a huge escort of -armed men guarded the captive King—who was mounted on a black -charger—and brought him to the Tower, through narrow City streets -crowded with sightseers, past bodies of City Companies drawn up and clad -in richest robes, in January 1347. At the Tower gate Bruce was given, -with much ceremony, into the custody of Sir John d’Arcy, then Governor. -The imprisoned King remained in the Tower eleven years. King John of -France, and Philip, his son, were brought captives here in 1358 after<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a>{30}</span> -Poitiers. Though the Scots King had been liberated and they were so -deprived of his society, yet it appears they had no unpleasant time of -it in their quarters. There were many French nobles within the gates to -make the semblance of a court. Both John and Philip were set free in -1360 by the Treaty of Bretigny.</p> - -<p>Richard II. began his reign amid great rejoicings and feastings, and the -Tower rang with revelries. On the day of his Coronation the King left -his palace-fortress in great state, clad in white robes, and looking, as -one account has it, “as beautiful as an archangel.” London seemed to -have lost its sense of humour—if the sense had been at all developed at -that time—for in Cheapside we are told a castle had been erected “from -two sides of which wine ran forth abundantly, and at the top stood a -golden angel, holding a crown, so contrived that when the King came near -she bowed and presented it to him. In each of the towers was a beautiful -virgin ... and each blew in the King’s face leaves of gold and flowers -of gold counterfeit,” while the populace yelled blessings on their new -monarch, and the conduits ran wine. But scarcely was the wine-stain out -of the streets when the Wat Tyler rebellion broke<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a>{31}</span> out, and it seemed -likely that the cobbles would be soon stained red again, but not with -wine. Richard and his mother sought refuge in the Tower while the yells -beyond the walls were no longer those of acclamation but of detestation. -Froissart likens the mob’s cries to the “hooting of devils.” Richard set -out on the Thames to a conference with the leaders of the insurgents at -Rotherhithe, but taking alarm before he had gone far down the river -returned hurriedly to the Tower steps. With him in his place of security -were Treasurer Hales and Archbishop Simon of Sudbury, for whose heads -the mob shouted. Mayor Walworth suggested a sally upon the infuriated -crowds, but this remedy was considered too desperate, and abandoned. The -mob on Tower Hill demanded Sudbury; Sudbury was to be delivered to them; -give them Sudbury. The awful glare of fire shone into the Tower -casements, and the King looked out and saw the houses of many of his -nobles being burnt to the ground. The Savoy was on fire, Westminster -added flames to colour the waters of the Thames, and fire was seen to -rise from the northern heights. Richard was but a boy, and so hard a -trial found him almost unequal to the strain it imposed. What was to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a>{32}</span> -done? The King being persuaded to meet his rebellious subjects at Mile -End, conceded their demands and granted pardons. There was a garrison of -1200 well-armed men in the Tower, but they were panic-stricken when, on -the departure of the King, the rebel mob, which had stood beyond the -moat, rushed over the drawbridges and into the very heart of the -buildings. Archbishop Sudbury was celebrating Mass when the mob caught -him, dragged him forth from the altar, and despatched him on Tower Hill. -Treasurer Hales was also killed, and both heads were exposed on the -gateway of old London Bridge. Yet, two days later, Tyler’s head was -placed where Sudbury’s had been, and the Archbishop was buried with much -pomp in Canterbury Cathedral. In 1387 Richard again sought refuge in the -Tower. The Duke of Gloucester and other nobles had become exasperated at -the weak King’s ways, and a commission appointed by Gloucester proceeded -to govern the Kingdom; Richard’s army offering opposition was defeated. -Subsequently, a conference was held in the Council Chamber of the White -Tower, and Richard, on some kind of agreement being reached, left the -Tower for Westminster. The King’s greatest friend, Sir<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a>{33}</span> Simon Burley, -was led to death on Tower Hill and his execution Richard swore to -avenge. His opportunity came. Three years later another State procession -left the Tower, with the King, as before, the chief personage in the -midst of the brave show. Richard had married Isabel, daughter of Charles -VI. of France. She had been dwelling in the Tower until the day of her -coronation. In the midst of the festivities that celebrated the joyous -event Gloucester was seized by the King’s orders, shipped off to Calais, -and murdered; the Earl of Arundel was beheaded on Tower Hill. Warwick -the King dared not kill, as he had done so much for his country in the -wars with France, but after confinement in the Beauchamp Tower, he was -sent to the Isle of Man, and there kept in prison for life. But Richard, -in planning the fall of these men, brought destruction upon himself. He -lost all self-control, and Mr. Gardiner believes that “it is most -probable, without being actually insane, his mind had to some extent -given way.” Parliament was dissolved—the King would rule without one; -he would assume the powers of an autocrat. Events moved swiftly. John of -Gaunt’s son, Henry of Lancaster, landed in England in 1399; Richard<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a>{34}</span> was -taken prisoner, and, on September 2 of that year, was brought to the -Tower, a prisoner. In the White Tower—Shakespeare, however, lays the -scene in Westminster Hall—he resigned his crown, and, shadowy king that -he always was, vanished into the dark shadow that shrouds his end.</p> - -<p>Henry IV. began his reign with a revival of Tower festivities. On the -eve of his coronation, after much feasting and rejoicing, a solemn -ceremonial took place in the Norman chapel of St. John, where forty-six -new knights of the Order of the Bath watched their arms all night. With -Henry’s reign begins, also, the list of State prisoners in the Tower, -which was becoming less of a palace and more of a prison. The first -captives were Welshmen—Llewellyn, a relation of Owen Glendower, being -brought here in 1402. In the following year the Abbot of Winchelsea and -other ecclesiastics were committed for inciting to rebellion, but -Henry’s most notable prisoner was Prince James of Scotland. This lad of -eleven was heir of Robert III., after the death of Rothesay, whose sad -end is described in <i>The Fair Maid of Perth</i>. King Robert died, it is -said, of a broken heart when he heard of his son’s captivity, and James -became <i>de facto</i> King of Scotland while<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a>{35}</span> unjustly immured in Henry’s -prison-house. He remained a prisoner for eighteen years, two of which -were spent in the Tower; from there he was removed to Nottingham Castle, -and his uncle, the Duke of Albany, acted as Regent of the northern -kingdom. It is interesting to learn, from some English and Scottish -records, that his expenses in the Tower were 6s. 8d. a day for himself -and 3s. 4d. for his attendants.</p> - -<p>Henry V., on becoming King in 1413, was, according to the <i>Chronicles of -London</i>, “brought to the Tower upon the Fryday, and on the morowe he -rood through Chepe with a grete rought of lordes and knyghtes, the -whiche he hadde newe made in the Tower on the night before.” About this -time the Tower was full of persecuted followers of Wycliffe, the most -famous being Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham. He had been a trusted -servant of Henry IV.; to him was allotted the task of quelling -insurrection in Wales at the time of the battle of Shrewsbury, and he -then stood in high favour with the King and his son, now Henry V. A -severe law had been passed with regard to those who held the principles -of Wycliffe, and at the time of Henry V.’s accession, Oldcastle was -found to favour the condemned Lollard doctrines. Not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a>{36}</span> long afterwards, -by virtue (to quote J. R. Green), of “the first legal enactment of -religious bloodshed which defiled our Statute Book,” Sir John was a -captive in the Tower, and the King, forgetting old friendship, allowed -matters to take their course. But Oldcastle, who evidently had friends -and unknown adherents within the Tower walls, mysteriously escaped, and -the Lollards, encouraged, brought their rising to a head. It was said -that they had plotted to kill the King and make Oldcastle Regent of the -kingdom; but their insurrection was quelled, the more prominent Lollards -were either burnt or hanged, and Sir John, after wanderings in Wales, -was caught, brought back to the Tower, and in December 1417, some say on -Christmas Day, was hung in chains and burnt “over a slow fire” in -Smithfield. He is the original of Shakespeare’s Falstaff, but had very -little in common with that creation of the dramatist’s fancy. -Shakespeare admits this in an epilogue where he says, “For Oldcastle -died a martyr and this is not the man.” In Tennyson’s poem, <i>Sir John -Oldcastle</i>, this brave old man exclaims, “God willing, I will burn for -Him,” and, truly, he suffered a terrible death for his convictions. -After Agincourt we have another notable prisoner in the Tower in the -person of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a>{37}</span> Charles, Duke of Orleans, who was sent to the White Tower -“with a ransom of 300,000 crowns on his head.” This captive, as did -James of Scotland before him, passed many of the weary hours of -captivity writing poetry. In the British Museum there is preserved a -manuscript volume of his poems which is invaluable as containing the -oldest picture of the Tower which is known to exist. This picture, -beautifully coloured, shows the great keep of William the Conqueror -whitewashed—hence its present name—and, in the background, the steep -grassy slope of Tower Hill, old London Bridge, and the spires and towers -of ancient London. It is a remarkable work of art, and is accessible to -all in its many reproductions. Charles was liberated in 1440, in the -reign of Henry VI.</p> - -<p>The early days of the sixth Henry were not marked in Tower annals by -events of great interest, and during the later Wars of the Roses the -number of captives sent here was small, for most of them were murdered -in cold blood, on the battlefields. Little quarter was given after those -fights-to-the-death, and during the weary years of warfare the peerage, -as one writer has it, “was almost annihilated.” The Cade rebellion broke -out in 1450, in which year William de la Pole,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a>{38}</span> Duke of Suffolk, who had -been charged with supporting it, was murdered. He was one of the most -distinguished noblemen in England, yet the tragedy that ended his life -was a sordid one. Upon a wholly unsubstantiated charge of treason he was -shut up in the Tower; as he could not be proven guilty, he was released -and banished the country. He took ship at Dover to cross to Calais, but -was captured in the Channel by the captain of a vessel named <i>Nicholas -of the Tower</i>. This was a name of ill-omen to Suffolk, to whom it had -been told, in prophecy, that could he avoid the “danger of the Tower” he -should be safe. As captive he was brought back to Dover, and his last -moments are described in <i>King Henry VI.</i>, Part II., Act iv., Scene 1, -with realism.</p> - -<p>In the summer of 1450 Lord Say was sent to the Tower by the King “to -propitiate the rebels,” and they had him forth and beheaded him in -Cheapside. Cade and his followers were attacking the fortress from -Southwark, but at nightfall a sortie was made from the Tower, London -Bridge was barricaded, and, a truce being called, the rebellion -gradually subsided. Cade’s capture in a garden in Kent is told by -Shakespeare in the tenth scene of the fourth act of the play just -mentioned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a>{39}</span></p> - -<p>Towton Heath was fought and lost by the Lancastrians; the Battle of -Hexham crushed the remnant of the King’s army; the valiant Queen -Margaret fled, taking her young son with her; and, very soon afterwards, -poor Henry himself was led captive, and placed in the Wakefield Tower -where, in the room in which the regalia is shown at the present day, he -was murdered, we are told, by Richard of Gloucester or, more probably, -by his orders, on May 21, 1471. But before his death, Warwick—that -king-maker slain at Barnet in 1471—had given orders for Henry to be led -on horseback through the city streets “while a turncoat populace shouted -‘God save King Harry!’<span class="lftspc">”</span> This was a poor and short-lived triumph. The -weary-hearted King, “clad in a blue gown,” soon returned to the walls he -was fated never again to leave alive. The city was flourishing under -Yorkist rule and was not minded to seek Lancastrian restoration. It was -the pull of prosperity against sentiment; the former won, as it usually -contrives to do, and along with sentiment down went King Henry. Queen -Margaret had meanwhile been brought to the Tower. Though she and her -husband were both within Tower gates they did not meet again. The Queen -was imprisoned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>{40}</span> for five years—for part of that time at Windsor—and -then was allowed to return to her own country. We meet her once again in -Scott’s <i>Anne of Geierstein</i>.</p> - -<p>Cannon, that had, as has been said, come into use for the first time at -Crecy, were during Henry’s reign used by the Yorkists to “batter down” -the walls of the Tower, but unsuccessfully. In 1843, when the moat was -dried and cleared out, a large number of stone cannon-balls were -discovered, and in all probability were those used at this bombardment.</p> - -<p>Edward IV. had given the customary feast at the Tower on the -coronation-eve and “made” thirty-two knights within its walls. These -Knights of the Bath, “arrayed in blue gowns, with hoods and tokens of -white silk upon their shoulders” rode before the new King on his -progress from the Tower to Westminster Abbey on his coronation day. The -King began his reign by sending Lancastrians to the Tower and beheading -two, Sir Thomas Tudenham and Sir William Tyrrell, on Tower Hill. The -Tower had come upon its darkest days. Though Edward favoured the -fortress a good deal as a place of residence, rebuilt its fortifications -and deepened its moat, he also used it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a>{41}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_004" id="ill_004"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_005_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_005_sml.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="Image unavailable: PORTION OF THE ARMOURY, WHITE TOWER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PORTION OF THE ARMOURY, WHITE TOWER</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">as a convenient place for ridding himself of all he wished to put out of -his way. Victim after victim suffered cruel death within its walls. His -brother Clarence mysteriously disappeared—tradition has maintained he -was drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine, but that has never been proved in -any way. However, the secrecy as to the manner of his death makes it -none the less tragic to the imagination; how his last moments were -passed the stones of the Bowyer Tower alone could tell us.</p> - -<p>Young Edward V. was brought to the Tower by the Dukes of Gloucester and -Buckingham, professing great loyalty and arranging that his coronation -should take place on the 22nd of June following. But Richard of -Gloucester was determined that if craft and strategy could accomplish -his ends the next coronation would be his own. Lord Hastings, over loyal -to the boy King was brought to the axe on Tower Green, and an attempt -was made by the scheming Richard, who was now Protector, to prove that -Edward was no true heir to the Crown. It was with a fine show of -unwillingness that he accepted the call to kingship, but in July, 1483, -he was crowned at Westminster. Edward, and his ten-year-old brother, -Richard, disappeared. We shall<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a>{42}</span> return to a consideration of their fate -when examining the Bloody Tower.</p> - -<p>Richard III., following the custom, gave sumptuous entertainments in the -Tower to celebrate his first days as King, and the usual elaborate -procession issued forth on the coronation day from the Tower gate, -climbed the hill, and wended its way through the tortuous London streets -to the city of Westminster, beyond. Richard seems to have spent much of -his time, when in his capital, within his fortress-palace, and to have -taken interest in at least one building near by. The Church of -Allhallows Barking, on Tower Hill, as we shall see in Chapter VI., owes -much to Richard, who appears to have considered Tower Walls thick enough -to hide his evil deeds and keep out his good ones.</p> - -<p>During this reign, as we find in the <i>Wyatt Papers</i>, a State prisoner, -Sir Henry Wyatt, was thrown into a Tower dungeon for favouring Tudor -claims and supporting Henry of Richmond. Richard, it is said, had him -tortured, but the brave soldier refused to forsake his “poor and unhappy -master” (afterwards Henry VII.) and so “the King, in a rage, had him -confined in a low and narrow cell where he had not clothes sufficient -to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a>{43}</span> warm him and was an-hungered.” The legend proceeds: “He had starved -then, had not God, who sent a crow to feed His prophet, sent this and -his country’s martyr a cat both to feed and warm him. It was his own -relation from whom I had the story. A cat came one day down into the -dungeon, and, as it were, offered herself unto him. He was glad of her, -laid her on his bosom to warm him, and, by making much of her, won her -love. After this she would come every day unto him divers times, and, -when she could get one, brought him a pigeon. He complained to his -keeper of his cold and short fare. The answer was ‘He durst not better -it.’ ‘But,’ said Sir Henry, ‘if I can provide any, will you promise to -dress it for me?’ ‘I may well enough,’ said the keeper, ‘you are safe -for that matter,’ and being urged again, promised him and kept his -promise.” The jailor dressed each time the pigeon the cat provided, and -the prisoner was no longer an-hungered. Sir Henry Wyatt in his days of -prosperity, when Henry VII. had come to the throne and made his faithful -follower a Privy Councillor, “did ever make much of cats” and, the old -writer goes on, “perhaps you will not find his picture anywhere but with -a cat beside him.” Wyatt afterwards<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a>{44}</span> became rich enough, under kingly -favour, to purchase Allington Castle, one of the finest places of its -kind in Kent. There are other Tower stories of men, saddened in their -captivity, being helped in various ways by dumb animals. Many of them, -we may hope, are true.</p> - -<p>Our necessarily rapid journey through history has brought us to the -illustrious Tudor Kings and Queens. The Tower was never more prominent -in England’s records than during Tudor reign, from seventh Henry to the -last days of great Elizabeth. The early years of the new King were to be -remembered by an imprisonment in Tower walls that had little sense of -justice as excuse. When the Duke of Clarence was put to death in Edward -IV.’s reign, he left behind him his eldest son, then only three years -old, whom Richard, after his own son’s death, had a mind to nominate as -his heir. This was Edward, Earl of Warwick, who came to be shut up -simply because he was a representative of the fallen house of York and -had a better right to claim the Crown than Henry Tudor. That was his -only offence, but it was sufficient; he lingered in confinement while -Lambert Simnel was impersonating him in Ireland in 1487; he was led -forth from his cell to parade city streets, for a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a>{45}</span> day of what must have -tasted almost like happy freedom, in order that he might be seen of the -people; and once again was he brought back to his place of confinement. -Henry’s position was again in danger, when, in 1492, Perkin Warbeck, a -young Fleming, landed in Ireland and proclaimed himself to be Richard -Plantagenet, Duke of York, son of Edward IV. His tale was that when his -“brother” Edward was murdered in the Tower, he had escaped. He was even -greeted, some time afterwards, by the Duchess of Burgundy, Edward IV.’s -sister, as her nephew, and called the “White Rose of England.” With -assistance from France and Scotland, Warbeck landed in England, and -after many vicissitudes was captured, and put in the Tower, from whence -he planned to escape and involved Edward of Warwick in the plot. This -gave Henry his opportunity. Warbeck was hanged at Tyburn, and poor -Warwick ended his long captivity at the block on Tower Hill. So was -played another act of Tower tragedy. Sir William Stanley, concerned in -the Warbeck rising, was also brought to the Tower, tried in the Council -Chamber, condemned, and beheaded on Tower Hill on February 16, 1495. -Still the plottings against the unpopular Henry went on, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a>{46}</span> -headsman had ample work to do. To Tower Hill came Sir James Tyrrell, who -had taken part in the murder of the Princes, and Sir John Wyndham—both -brought there for the aid they had given to the plottings of Edmund de -la Pole, Earl of Suffolk.</p> - -<p>But now comes a break in the tales of bloodshed, and the Tower awoke -once more to the sounds of feasting and rejoicing. In celebration of the -marriage of Prince Arthur and Katherine of Aragon in St. Paul’s -Cathedral, great tournaments and banquetings took place within the Tower -and in its immediate vicinity. Tower Hill was gay with the coming and -going of festive crowds; the Tower walls echoed what they seldom -heard—the sounds of piping and dancing. Records tell us, too, of -elaborate pageants which strove to show the descent of the bridegroom -from Arthur of the Round Table. This method of impressing the moving -scenes of history on the spectator is not unknown to us in the present -day. Hardly had five months passed away, however, when the Prince, who -was but a lad of fifteen, lay dead, and his mother, Elizabeth of York, -who had given birth to a daughter in the Tower in 1503, died nine days -after Prince Arthur. When six more years had passed, the King, whose -reign had been so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a>{47}</span> troubled, was laid by the side of his wife, in “the -glorious shrine in Westminster Abbey which bears his name.”</p> - -<p>Henry VIII. was now on the throne, at the age of eighteen, and once -again the Tower looms largely in the view, and approaches the height of -its notoriety as State prison and antechamber to the place of death. -But, as in former times, the record is not one of unrelieved gloom. The -two sides of the picture are admirably exemplified at the beginning of -Henry’s reign, for, shortly after he had imprisoned his father’s -“extortioners,” Empson and Dudley, and subsequently caused them to be -beheaded on Tower Hill, he made great show and ceremony during the Court -held at the Tower before the first of his many weddings. Twenty-four -Knights of the Bath were created, and, with all the ancient pomp and -splendour—for Henry had a keen eye for the picturesque—the usual -procession from Tower to Westminster duly impressed, by its glitter, a -populace ever ready to acclaim a coronation, in the too-human hope that -the new will prove better than the old.</p> - -<p>The young King appointed Commissioners to make additions and -improvements within the Tower. The roomy Lieutenant’s House was built,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a>{48}</span> -and had access to the adjoining towers; additional warders’ houses were -erected and alterations were made within the Bell and St. Thomas’s -Towers. About this time the White Tower received attention, and from the -State Papers of the period we learn that it was “embattled, coped, -indented, and cressed with Caen stone to the extent of five hundred -feet.” It is almost as though Henry were anxious that his royal prison -should be prepared to receive the many new occupants of its rooms and -dungeons that he was about to send there, for no sooner were these -renovations completed than the chronicle of bloodshed begins afresh.</p> - -<p>The Earl of Suffolk, already spoken of in connection with a plot in the -preceding reign, came to the axe in 1513; a few years passed and the -Tower was filled with men apprehended in City riots, in an attempt to -subdue which the Tower guns were actually “fired upon the city”; Edward, -Duke of Buckingham, at one time a favourite of Henry’s, was traduced by -Wolsey, who represented, out of revenge, that the Duke laid some claim -to the Crown, and he was beheaded on Tower Green on May 17, 1521. In -Brewer’s Introduction to the <i>State Papers of Henry VIII.</i>, we read, -with reference to this trial and death of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a>{49}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_005" id="ill_005"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/full_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/full_sml.jpg" width="500" height="322" alt="Image unavailable: Panorama of the Tower and Greenwich in 1543. By Anthony -van den Wyngaerde. - -102. Houndsditch. -103. Crutched Friars. -104. Priory of Holy Trinity. -105. Aldgate. -106. St. Botolph, Aldgate. -107. The Minories. -108. The Postern Gate. -109. Great Tower Hill. -110. Place of Execution. -111. Allhallow’s Church, Barking. -112. The Custom House. -113. Tower of London. -114. The White Tower. -115. Traitor’s Gate. -116. Little Tower Hill. -117. East Smithfield. -118. Stepney. -119. St. Catherine’s Church. -120. St. Catherine’s Dock. -121. St. Catherine’s Hospital. -122. Isle of Dogs. -123. Monastery of Bermondsey. -124. Says Court, Deptford. -125. Palace of Placentia." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Panorama of the Tower and Greenwich in 1543. By Anthony -van den Wyngaerde.</span> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="text-align:left;" class="caption"> -<tr valign="top"><td> -102. Houndsditch.<br /> -103. Crutched Friars.<br /> -104. Priory of Holy Trinity.<br /> -105. Aldgate. -</td><td class="bl"> -106. St. Botolph, Aldgate.<br /> -107. The Minories.<br /> -108. The Postern Gate.<br /> -109. Great Tower Hill. -</td><td class="bl"> -110. Place of Execution.<br /> -111. Allhallow’s Church, Barking.<br /> -112. The Custom House.<br /> -113. Tower of London. -</td><td class="bl"> -114. The White Tower.<br /> -115. Traitor’s Gate.<br /> -116. Little Tower Hill.<br /> -117. East Smithfield. -</td><td class="bl"> -118. Stepney. -119. St. Catherine’s Church.<br /> -120. St. Catherine’s Dock.<br /> -121. St. Catherine’s Hospital. -</td><td class="bl"> -122. Isle of Dogs.<br /> -123. Monastery of Bermondsey.<br /> -124. Says Court, Deptford.<br /> -125. Palace of Placentia.</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p class="nonvis"><a href="images/full_lg.jpg">Larger image</a>[150 kb] -<a href="images/full_huge.jpg">Largest image</a> [1mb] -</p> - -</div> - -<p class="nind">Buckingham, that the Duke of Norfolk, not without tears, delivered -sentence thus: “You are to be led back to prison, laid on a hurdle, and -so drawn to the place of execution; you are there to be hanged, cut down -alive, your members cut off and cast into the fire, your bowels burnt -before your eyes, your head smitten off, your body quartered and divided -at the King’s will.” Buckingham heard this terrible form of punishment -with calmness, and said that so should traitors be spoken unto, but that -he was never one. After the trial, which had lasted nearly a week, the -Duke was conveyed on the river from Westminster to the Temple steps and -brought through Eastcheap to the Tower. Buckingham’s last words as he -mounted the scaffold on the Green were that he died a true man to the -King, “whom, through my own negligence and lack of grace I have -offended.” In a few moments his head was off, the block was covered with -his blood, and some good friars took up his body, covered it with a -cloak, and carried it to the Church of Austin Friars, where it was -buried with all solemnity. So fell the once mighty Buckingham, and in -his last moments, and after his death, he was not forgotten by “poor -religious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a>{50}</span> men, to whom, in his lifetime, he had been kind.”</p> - -<p>Again the curtain falls on tragedy and rises on comedy. Twelve years -later Tower Green was given over to revelry; and laughter, singing, and -mumming were revived under the walls of the White Tower. A writer of the -time speaks of the “marvellous cunning pageants,” and the “fountains -running with wine” as Henry brought hither his new Queen, Anne Boleyn, -for whom, on her entry “there was such a pele of gonnes as hath not byn -herde lyke a great while before.” Once more, also, there was made -procession, in state, but with scant applause of the people this time, -from Tower Hill to Westminster. Soon the shadows return, and the -“gonnes” and the music cease. Three short years pass and Anne Boleyn -comes back to the Tower in sadness and in silence. On the spot where -Buckingham suffered, her head, on May 19, 1536, was severed from her -body. Three days afterwards Henry had married Jane Seymour.</p> - -<p>During the short life of Anne Boleyn as Queen, Bishop Fisher and Sir -Thomas More had come to the scaffold. Their imprisonment and death are -dealt with in the next chapter. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a>{51}</span> “Pilgrimage of Grace,” a religious -rising in the North, mostly within the borders of Yorkshire, to protest -against the spoliation of the monasteries and the threatened attack on -the parish churches, caused many a leader to be confined within the -Tower. Its dungeons were filled with prisoners.</p> - -<p>The magnificent Abbeys of Rievaulx, Fountains, and Jervaulx, in the -Yorkshire dales, were pulled down, and to this day their noble ruins cry -shame upon the despoilers. To the Tower came the Abbots of Jervaulx and -Fountains, with the Prior of Bridlington, and they were hanged, -eventually, at Tyburn Tree. Other prisoners were Lords Hussey and -Darcey; the first was beheaded in Lincoln, the other on Tower Hill. With -them were brought Sir Robert Constable, Sir John and Lady Bulmer, Sir -Thomas Percy, Sir Francis Bigod, Sir Stephen Hamilton, Robert Aske, -William, son of Lord Lumley, and many a one of Yorkshire birth whose -names have not come down to us. All were put to death, without mercy, in -1537.</p> - -<p>Two years after the suppression of this rising in the North a -smouldering Yorkist insurrection in the West was stamped out by the -usual method of securing the leaders, in this case Henry Courtenay,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a>{52}</span> -Marquis of Exeter, Sir Edward Nevill and Sir Nicholas Carew, and taking -off their heads on Tower Hill. Others were seized about this time, -accused of being implicated in certain traitorous correspondence, and -were also brought to the Tower. Amongst them were Lord Montague and Sir -Geoffrey Pole, with their mother the Countess of Salisbury, Sir Adrian -Fortescue, Sir Thomas Dingley, and the Marchioness of Exeter. As regards -the aged Countess of Salisbury, in a contemporary document it is said -that “she maketh great moan, for that she wanteth necessary apparel, -both for change and also to keep her warm.” In a history dealing with -the period, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, we have a description of the -Countess’s last moments, which were tragic enough even for Tower -records. On May 28, 1541, “the old lady was brought to the scaffold, set -up in the Tower [on Tower Green], and was commanded to lay her head on -the block; but she, as a person of great quality assured me, refused, -saying, ‘I am no traitor’; neither would it serve that the executioner -told her it was the fashion, so turning her grey head every way, she bid -him, if he would have her head, to get it off as he could; so that he -was constrained to fetch it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a>{53}</span> off slovenly.” However, Froude discredits -this story, and it certainly seems to be almost too fantastic to be -true. Still, the fact remains that the Countess was subjected to -unnecessarily harsh treatment while in the Tower, for the reason, it is -said, that the King hoped she might die under the privations and so save -him bringing her to the block. To Thomas Cromwell, the instigator of the -terrible punishments that were meted out to those concerned in the -risings, fate had already brought retribution. In 1540 he had been -created Earl of Essex; a few months afterwards his fall came; on a day -of July in that year he, too, came to the Tower and suffered the death, -on Tower Green, that he had prescribed for others. The Tower was -becoming like some mighty monster whose craving for human blood was hard -to satisfy. Accuser and accused, yeoman and earl, youth and age, -innocence and guilt, seemed to come alike into its greedy maw. Cromwell -was taken from the House of Lords to the Tower, and the angry King would -listen to no word in his favour. Whatever his crimes as -tyrant-councillor to Henry, two things may be reckoned to his credit, -for no man is altogether bad. The Bible was printed in English, in 1538, -at his wish, and he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a>{54}</span> initiated a system of keeping parish registers. At -the time of Cromwell’s death the Tower was inconveniently full of -“Protestant heretics,” three of whom were got rid of by the simple -expedient of burning them in Smithfield, while an equal number of -Catholics, who were prepared to deny the King’s supremacy in matters -ecclesiastical, went with them.</p> - -<p>The King had not been too busy with ridding himself of enemies, or -supposed enemies, to neglect other things. He had married and divorced -Anne of Cleves, and had taken Katherine Howard to be his Queen. But her -fate was not long delayed, and another royal head was brought to the axe -on Tower Green. Before her death she had asked that the block might be -brought to her cell in order that she might learn how to lay her head -upon it, and this strange request was granted. Lady Rochford, the -Queen’s companion, was executed on the Green after her mistress had -suffered. An eye-witness of the executions has left it on record that -both victims made “the moost godly and chrystian end that ever was heard -tell of, I thynke sins the world’s creation.” Katherine Howard was only -twenty-two years old when the Tower claimed her life. Many of her -relatives were imprisoned at the same time, among them being her -grandmother,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a>{55}</span> the Duchess of Norfolk, the Countess of Bridgewater, Lord -and Lady William Howard, and Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. It is rather -startling to find that a prisoner in the Tower could “die for joy” upon -hearing that the charge brought against him was not proven. This -singular death released the troubled soul of Viscount Lisle from the -walls of his dungeon and from the trials of this mortal life, in the -year that Queen Katherine was brought to the Green.</p> - -<p>From execution we turn to torture. Anne Askew, “an ardent believer in -the Reformed faith,” was cast into the Tower for denying the doctrine of -Transubstantiation. In an account of her sufferings by Lord de Ros we -are told that “the unhappy lady was carried to a dungeon and laid on the -rack in the presence of the Lieutenant of the Tower and Chancellor -Wriothesley. But when she endured the torture without opening her lips -in reply to the Chancellor’s questions, he became furious, and seizing -the wheel himself, strained it with all his force till Knyvett [the -Lieutenant], revolting at such cruelty, insisted on her release from the -dreadful machine. It was but just in time to save her life, for she had -twice swooned, and her limbs had been so stretched and her joints so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a>{56}</span> -injured, that she was never again able to walk.... She was shortly -afterwards carried to Smithfield and there burnt to ashes, together with -three other persons, for the same cause, in the presence of the Duke of -Norfolk, the Earl of Bedford, Sir Thomas Wriothesley, the Lord Mayor, -and a vast concourse of people.” Religious bigotry, alas, is still with -us, but men have saner notions to-day as to the value of mere religious -opinions, and poor Anne had the misfortune to live in a ruder age than -ours. But her sufferings are not forgotten; religious tyranny has lost -the power to send to the rack and the stake, and to her, and all who -suffered, be due honour given.</p> - -<p>Once more the curtain falls on tragedy, and on its rise we see the Tower -decked out for revelry. In 1546 a “great banquet” was given in honour of -the peace between France and England, and the French High Admiral, the -Bishop of Evreux, and others came on embassy to England, and were -welcomed, amid much rejoicing, to the feast. For a space the Tower -remembered there was laughter in life as well as tears. However, it -rejoiced with difficulty, and very soon had returned to gloomy dignity -and sadness. On paltry evidence the Duke of Norfolk, who had led to -victory at<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a>{57}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_006" id="ill_006"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_008_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_008_sml.jpg" width="500" height="309" alt="Image unavailable: THE COUNCIL CHAMBER IN THE KING’S HOUSE WHERE GUY FAWKES -AND FATHER GERARD WERE TRIED" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE COUNCIL CHAMBER IN THE KING’S HOUSE WHERE GUY FAWKES -AND FATHER GERARD WERE TRIED</span> -</div> - -<p>Flodden Field, and was now seventy-four years of age, was, with the Earl -of Surrey, imprisoned in the Tower. Surrey, tried by jury in January -1547, on the 19th of the month was led out of the Tower gate to -execution on Tower Hill. Thus was sent to death England’s first writer -of blank verse and one of her most excellent poets. “Surrey’s instinct -for prosody was phenomenal,” says Mr. Edmund Gosse, and “he at once -transplanted blank verse from a soil in which it could never flourish -[it had recently been invented in Italy], to one in which it would take -root and spread in full luxuriance.” Yet the sweet singer who lit the -torch that was handed on to Shakespeare was brought to the block with -the tyrant and the malefactor. Norfolk would have shared a like fate, -had not the King himself died a few hours before the time appointed for -the Duke’s removal to Tower Hill. He was set free when Mary came to -reign, and died in his own home in 1554 at the good old age of -eighty-one.</p> - -<p>Young Edward VI. was brought up to the Tower with great ceremony, and -began his reign when but a boy of ten. In the Tower he was made a -knight, and rejoicings in anticipation of his coronation made the old -walls ring again to gladness. The State procession from the Tower to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a>{58}</span> -the Abbey was conceived and carried through in a spirit of regal -magnificence, and from Eastcheap to Westminster the streets were -bedecked in a manner expressive of the joy of the people that Henry’s -reign of terror had ended. The boy King had not long been on the throne, -when, under the guidance of Protector Somerset, in whose hands was all -the power of an actual ruler, bloodshed began afresh. Thomas, Lord -Seymour, brother of Somerset and uncle of the King, was immured in the -Tower, and, accused of ambitious practices, beheaded on Tower Hill on -March 20, 1549. This act brought down the rage of the populace upon -Somerset, who was already unpopular by reason of his seizure of Church -property. By his ill-gotten gains he had built the magnificent Somerset -House, and in order to clear the ground for it he had demolished a -church and scattered the human remains found there—an act of -desecration that the citizens regarded as a crime. The Earl of Warwick -headed the opposition, seized the Tower, and the Protector was lodged in -the Beauchamp Tower. Later, however, he was pardoned, and the young King -records in his diary that “My Lorde Somerset was delivered of his bondes -and came to Court.” But the feud soon came to a head again,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a>{59}</span> and in 1551 -Somerset was shut up in the Tower once more, and his wife with him, on a -charge of high treason. He was taken, by water, to his trial at -Westminster Hall, where he was “acquitted of high treason,” but -condemned “of treason feloniouse and adjudged to be hanged.” The King, -who appears to have written a full account of events in his diary, notes -that “he departed without the axe of the Tower. The people knowing not -the matter shrieked half-a-dozen times so loude that from the halle dore -it was heard at Charing Crosse plainely, and rumours went that he was -quitte of all.” But, far from being “quitte of all” he was conveyed back -to the Tower, and while some maintained that he was to be set at -liberty, others with equal heat asserted that he was to die speedily. -The dispute was set at rest by his execution on Tower Hill, “at eight of -ye clok in the morning.” The boy Edward seems to have had some of the -callousness of his father in his nature, for he signed the death -warrants of both his uncles with calmness, and in his commentary on -their executions he betrays no emotion whatever, taking it all as very -commonplace happening. “The Duke of Somerset had his head cut off upon -Touer Hill” is the entry in the royal manuscript book. At the time of -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a>{60}</span> Protector’s committal to the Tower there came with him, as -prisoners, his supporters the Earl of Arundel, Lords Grey and Paget; -also Sir Thomas Arundel, Sir Ralph Vane, Sir Miles Partridge and Sir -Michael Stanhope—these latter being executed. Edward’s short reign of -six years had seen as many noble lives sacrificed as any six years of -his father’s reign had seen, and with the Queen who succeeded him the -tale of bloodshed was not less full of sudden tragedy.</p> - -<p>Mary Tudor was preceded by the nine-days’ “Queen,” Lady Jane Grey, who -had been named his successor by the dying Edward, at the instigation of -the Duke of Northumberland. Lady Jane had been wedded to -Northumberland’s fourth son, Lord Guildford Dudley; she was only sixteen -years old; she began and ended her “reign” in the Tower, to which she -was conveyed by her father-in-law, who was keeping Edward’s death secret -until his plans were complete. But Mary had been proclaimed without the -Tower if Lady Jane had been proclaimed within. The weaker was pitted -against the stronger, and Northumberland, whom we hear of at Cambridge -trying to go over to the side of the stronger by shouting “God save -Queen Mary!” in the public highway, was arrested in spite of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a>{61}</span> proper -sentiments and was brought prisoner to London and lodged within the -Tower, where only a few weeks before he had been in command. He suffered -on August 22. In the September sunshine Lady Jane was allowed to walk in -the garden attached to the Lieutenant’s house, “and on the hill,” and to -look out upon the river and the roofs of the city from the walk behind -the battlements which connects the Beauchamp and Bell Towers. In the -Beauchamp her husband was held in bondage, and there he carved the word -“Jane” on the wall, where it is to be seen to this day. In October Mary -was crowned, and in November a sad procession wended its way up Tower -Hill, through Tower Street and Eastcheap, to the Guildhall. At the head -walked the Chief Warder, carrying the axe; following, came Archbishop -Cranmer, Lord Guildford Dudley, and Lady Jane Grey. At their trial they -pleaded guilty to high treason, were sentenced, and returned to the -Tower, the Warder’s axe showing, by the direction in which the blade -pointed, what their doom was to be. To her father Lady Jane wrote, from -her prison-house: “My deare father, if I may, without offence, rejoyce -in my own mishaps, herein I may account myselfe blessed that washing my -hands<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a>{62}</span> with the innocence of my fact, my guiltless bloud may cry before -the Lord, Mercy to the innocent!... I have opened unto you the state -wherein I presently stand, my death at hand, although to you perhaps it -may seem wofull yet to me there is nothing that can bee more welcome -than from this vale of misery to aspire, and that having thrown off all -joy and pleasure, with Christ my Saviour, in whose steadfast faith (if -it may be lawfull for the daughter so to write to her father) the Lord -that hath hitherto strengthened you, soe continue to keepe you, that at -the last we may meete in heaven with the Father, Sonne, and Holy -Ghost.—I am, your most obedient daughter till death, <span class="smcap">Jane Dudley</span>.” It -is possible that Queen Mary might have spared the life of this sweet and -gentle maid, happier in her books and her devotions than in the -intrigues of State, but a rising of the men of Kent, under Wyatt, who -demanded the “custody of the Tower and the Queen within it,” brought -matters to a crisis. Wyatt appeared on the Southwark bank of the Thames -and was fired upon from Tower walls. This is the last time in its annals -that the fortress was attacked, and that it was called upon to repel an -enemy. Wyatt, captured at Temple Bar after a night march from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a>{63}</span> Kingston, -where he had crossed the river, was soon in the Tower, and with him was -led many a noble prisoner. All hope that Lady Jane would be spared had -now gone. Her father was seized and brought to the Tower on February 10; -her husband was seen by her on his way to death on Tower Hill on the -morning of the 12th, and she looked out again upon his headless body, as -it was brought back on a litter, very soon afterwards, and taken to the -chapel. A contemporary chronicle describes the preparations made for her -own death on that day: “There was a Scaffolde made upon the grene over -against the White Tower for the saide Lady Jane to die upon.” She was -led forth from her prison to the Green by Sir John Bridges, then -Lieutenant, and mounted the scaffold with firm step. The hangman offered -to help her to take off her gown. “She desyred him to let her alone, -turning towards her two gentlewomen who helped her off therewith ... -giving to her a fayre handkerchief to knytte about her eyes.... Then she -sayd, ‘I pray you despatch me quickly.’ She tied the kercher about her -eyes, then feeling for the block, saide, ‘What shal I do, where is it?’ -One of the standers by guyding her thereunto, she layde her head downe -upon the block, and stretched<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a>{64}</span> forth her body, and said, ‘Lord, into Thy -hands I commend my spirit,’ and so she ended.” Fuller has said of this -noble girl, “She had the birth of a Princess, the life of a saint, yet -the death of a malefactor, for her parent’s offences, and she was longer -a captive than a Queen in the Tower.” Her father and Wyatt, before many -days had passed, were both beheaded on Tower Hill; many luckless ones -who had taken part in the Kentish rising were put to death with every -form of cruelty; and, shortly after these terrible days of bloodshed in -London, Mary was married to Philip of Spain at Winchester.</p> - -<p>Princess Elizabeth had, meanwhile, been brought to the Tower in custody, -and was landed, on Palm Sunday, at Traitor’s Gate. She was closely -guarded but was allowed to walk on the open passage-way, where Lady Jane -Grey had paced up and down before her, which is now known as “Queen -Elizabeth’s Walk.” Towards the middle of May, being set free of the -Tower, she is said to have taken a meal in the London Tavern—at the -corner of Mark Lane and Fenchurch Street—on her way to Woodstock. The -pewter meat-dish and cover which she used are still preserved. The city -churches rang joyous peals when it was known<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a>{65}</span> she was out of Tower -walls, and to those churches that gave her welcome she presented silken -bell-ropes when Queen of England.</p> - -<p>Queen Mary’s days were darkened again by busy work for the headsman, and -by religious persecution. Thomas, second son of Lord Stafford, defeated -in an attempt to capture Scarborough Castle, was brought to the block on -Tower Hill, and a large band of prisoners was put in Tower dungeons. To -make room for these, many of the captives already there were released. -Mary died on November 17, 1558, and then began to dawn those “spacious -times of great Elizabeth” when England moved to greater glory than she -had ever known before.</p> - -<p>Queen Elizabeth, on her accession, came again to the Tower, spending the -time until the coronation within its walls, but she had too many -memories of captivity there to retain much love for the prison which had -now become her palace. Seated in a golden chariot, the new Queen, ablaze -with jewels, passed on her way to Westminster through a city decked out -in all manner of magnificence, and through a crowd shouting themselves -hoarse with delight at her coming. The Tower appears in the records of -Elizabeth’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a>{66}</span> reign almost wholly as a State prison. An attempt was made -to smooth out religious difficulties by committing a number of Church -dignitaries to its keeping, among them the Archbishop of York, and -Feckenham, Abbot of Westminster. Then came Lady Catherine Grey, Lady -Jane’s sister, who had offended the Queen by marrying Lord Hertford in -secret. Her husband, also, was soon afterwards a prisoner. He lay for -over nine years in his cell, but was released at the end of that time, -while Lady Hertford died in the Tower. The Countess of Lennox was -imprisoned three times within the walls, “not for any treason, but for -love matters.” Thomas Howard, son of the first Duke of Norfolk, was shut -up here “for falling in love with the Countess,” and died in captivity. -It is interesting to find that Cupid could forge Tower shackles as well -as make a wedding ring, and that to enter his service without the -Queen’s permission was almost a capital offence.</p> - -<p>In 1562 a suspected conspiracy to set the Queen of Scots—ill-fated -Mary—on the English throne was the cause of Arthur and Edmund de la -Pole, great-grandchildren of the murdered Duke of Clarence, being put -into the Beauchamp Tower, where, when we reach that portion of the -buildings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a>{67}</span> on our rounds, we shall see their inscriptions on the walls. -The brothers were fated never to leave their place of confinement alive. -After fourteen years of respite, Tower Hill again claimed a victim, the -Duke of Norfolk suffering there in June 1579. In the following year -Roman Catholic prisoners were brought, one might say in droves, to Tower -cells. Many of them were subjected to torture either by the rack, the -“Scavenger’s Daughter,” the thumbscrew, or the boot. In 1581 Father -Campion, a Jesuit, was hurried to death, and in 1583 we hear of one -captive committing suicide in order to escape the awful fate of -dismemberment that many of his fellow-prisoners had suffered. It seems -as if the sanity of life, the sweet wholesomeness we associate with the -Merrie England of Shakespeare’s time, had not pierced the solid crust of -Tower tradition. To lay down a comedy of the great dramatist and take up -contemporary records of the Tower is as if one had stepped out of the -warm sunshine and fragrant air of mid-June into a dark, damp vault whose -atmosphere stings with the chill of a November night.</p> - -<p>Tower dungeons were becoming too crowded. Many a poor obscure captive -was sent over to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a>{68}</span> France, perhaps to a harder lot, and the vacant places -were filled by political offenders. Northumberland killed himself in the -Tower; Arundel, made prisoner with him, died—from self-imposed -privations, it is said—some months after. Sir John Perrot, Lord Deputy -of Ireland, was charged with using some hasty words against the Queen, -and that was considered sufficiently dire an offence for Lord Chancellor -Hatton to have him brought to the Tower. But Elizabeth refused to sign -the warrant for his execution. He died, in his captivity, after six -months, of a broken heart. Of the imprisonment of Raleigh, and of Robert -Devereux, Earl of Essex, something will be said when we come to examine -those portions of the Tower with which their names are associated. With -the death of Elizabeth the curtain falls on the last of the Tudors—a -race of sovereigns who had used their faithful Tower well, as palace, -fortress, prison, and secret place in which their enemies were put out -of existence. Of many of the greater names of Elizabeth’s reign, Tower -annals bear no record, but soldier, statesman, or ecclesiastic, having -crossed the Queen’s humour, found it but a step from Court favour to -Traitor’s Gate.</p> - -<p>“In the grey hours of morning, March 24, 1603,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a>{69}</span> watch and ward was kept -in London streets; and in all the neighbour counties men who had much at -stake in time of crisis wove uncertain plans to meet the thousand -chances that day might bring.... When day broke two horsemen were far on -the northern road, each spurring to forestall the other at Holyrood with -homage impatiently expected by the first ruler of the British Isles. At -a more leisurely pace the Elizabethan statesmen were riding in from -Richmond, where their mistress lay dead, to Whitehall Gate, where at ten -in the morning they proclaimed King James I.... The Lords of the Council -showed themselves agreed that there should be no revolution. The -decision was silently endorsed by a grateful nation. In city and -manor-house men laid aside their arms and breathed again.” In Mr. G. M. -Trevelyan’s admirable <i>England under the Stuarts</i>, from which these -words are taken, a delightful description is given of the state of -England at the coming of the King of Scotland to the English throne, and -the chapters might well be read in connection with any study of Tower -history. For, to understand the happenings within the Tower, it is -profitable to have some detailed knowledge of the state of society -outside its walls.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a>{70}</span></p> - -<p>King James, after his progress “during a month of spring weather” from -Edinburgh, came to the Tower and held his first Court there. The usual -procession to the Abbey was abandoned owing to plague that lurked in -city streets, and rejoicings within Tower walls were less lusty than -usual, but the King rode in state from Tower Hill to Westminster two -years later to open his first Parliament. It is interesting to read in -Mr. Sidney Lee’s <i>Life of Shakespeare</i> that Shakespeare himself, with -eight players of the King’s company of actors, walked “from the Tower of -London to Westminster in the procession which accompanied the King in -his formal entry into London.” There is no other positive record of the -great dramatist and poet having visited the Tower. We can but conjecture -that a building so indissolubly bound up with the nation’s history would -offer no mute appeal to such a mind as his, and that he must have come, -at times, to look upon the place where, down to his own day, so many -tragic deeds had been done.</p> - -<p>Early in James’s reign many eminent prisoners were brought to the Tower -in connection with a plot, as the timid King thought, to place the Crown -on the head of Lady Arabella Stuart, his first<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a>{71}</span> cousin on the mother’s -side. In May 1611 Lady Arabella had married young William Seymour. This -event brought both bride and bridegroom into royal disfavour. The -husband was shut up in the Tower, and the wife kept in captivity at -Lambeth Palace. But this did not daunt them. Lady Arabella, on being -taken north on the way to Durham, pleaded illness when scarcely out of -sight of London. In disguise she escaped to Blackwall and took ship at -Leigh-on-Sea, there to await her husband, who had succeeded in getting -out of the Tower by dressing as a labourer and following out a cart -laden with wood. From the wharf, Seymour sailed to Leigh, but found that -the French vessel in which his wife had sought shelter had gone down the -river some hours before. He managed to cross to Ostend, but Lady -Arabella was caught in mid-channel and conveyed back to Tower walls, -which she never left again. In her latter years she became insane, and, -dying in 1615, was buried at midnight beside Mary Queen of Scots in the -Abbey. Seymour allowed unmerited punishment to fall on his young wife, -remained abroad until the storm was over, married again, and lived long -enough to see the Restoration. The conspiracy of 1603 had been the cause -of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a>{72}</span> execution of George Brook, brother of Lord Cobham, and two -priests went to death with him. Lord Cobham himself, and Lord Grey de -Wilton, were brought to the steps of the scaffold not many days after, -for participation in the same plot. Before the headsman had done his -work a reprieve arrived, and they were sent back to their place of -captivity.</p> - -<p>In 1604 the Guy Fawkes conspiracy necessitated a fresh batch of captives -being lodged in the Tower, and during our visit to the dungeons beneath -the White Tower we shall learn something of their fate, and of the fate, -also, of another prisoner of this period, Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned -in the Bloody Tower. Felton, the rogue responsible for the assassination -of Buckingham, had bought the knife with which he did the deed on Tower -Hill at a booth there. He was brought to the Tower on his arrest and -confined until the day of his hanging at Tyburn. They were not always, -however, political offences that filled the Tower cells at this period; -a private quarrel was the cause of Lords Arundel and Spencer being given -quarters in the prison, and Lord Audley was beheaded on Tower Hill in -1631 for committing crimes which were so revolting as to encourage the -belief that he was insane.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a>{73}</span></p> - -<p>With Charles I.—who did not visit the Tower, as far as is known, during -his life—the number of noble prisoners by no means grows less. In -November 1640 the Earl of Strafford was put in the Tower and condemned -to death after trial in Westminster Hall. The King was anxious to save -him; the Tower was to be seized and Strafford set at liberty; the royal -plans failed; Charles forsook his favourite even after having sworn that -not a hair of his head should be injured. The prisoner could anticipate -but one end. “Sweet Harte,” he wrote to his wife, “it is long since I -writt to you, for I am here in such trouble as gives me little or noe -respett.” Archbishop Laud had also been put in the prison-fortress, and -as Strafford passed down the sloping pathway that leads from Tower Green -to Traitor’s Gate, on his way to execution, Laud, from the window above -the arch of Bloody Tower, gave his friend his blessing. The Earl was led -out to Tower Hill and suffered death there on May 12, 1641. It is said -that 200,000 people witnessed the event, and that it was celebrated by -the lighting of bonfires at night. The Archbishop had been arrested at -Lambeth Palace and brought to the Tower by the river. He remained for -four years in his room in the Bloody Tower, and in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a>{74}</span> diary describes -the visit paid to him by Prynne, “who seeing me safe in bed, falls first -to my pockets to rifle them” in the search for papers, which he found in -plenty. “He bound up my papers, left two sentinels at my door, and went -his way.” On March 10, 1643, Laud was brought to a trial in Westminster -Hall which lasted twenty days. Because he had—so the charge was -worded—“attempted to subvert religion and the fundamental laws of the -realm,” he was condemned, and on Tower Hill, on January 10, 1645, when -seventy-two years of age, beheaded. He was buried, as we shall see in a -later chapter, in the church of Allhallows Barking, near by. Readers of -<i>John Inglesant</i> will remember the vivid description given in that book -of these days in the reign of the first Charles, and in the moving -picture of the life of the time Laud played no inconsiderable part. -“Laud,” says Bishop Collins in his exhaustive <i>Laud Commemoration</i> -volume, “deserves to be commemorated as among other things, a true -forerunner of social leaders of our own day. To him, at any rate, a man -is a man, and no man can be more; the great, the rich, the educated, had -no hope of favour from him; rather he reserved his mercy for the poor, -the ignorant, and the lowly....<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a>{75}</span> We thank God for his noble care for the -poor, and his large and generous aims for the English race; for his -splendid example of diligent service in Church and State; for his work -as the great promoter of learning of his age.” From such an authority -these words are valuable and do much to set the balance right after the -splenetic outbursts of Carlyle and many a lesser writer.</p> - -<p>August, 1642, had seen the outbreak of the Civil War; Charles was at -Nottingham; the Tower was in the keeping of Parliament, and its captives -were those who adhered to the King. We find a Lord Mayor of London -amongst them for publishing the King’s proclamation with regard to the -militia, and gallant Cavaliers in plenty filled the cells. Sir John -Hotham and his son, charged with attempting to give Hull over to the -Royalists while it was being held for Parliament, were brought to the -Tower in 1643, and to Tower Hill in the following year. Sir Alexander -Carew, Governor of Plymouth, was beheaded shortly afterwards on a -similar indictment. When the King had himself suffered death at the -block, in Whitehall, the Tower contained many of his supporters, and -amongst those who shared their royal master’s fate were the Earl of -Holland, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a>{76}</span> Duke of Hamilton, and Arthur, Lord Capel. A fine old -knight of Wales, Sir John Owen, taken at the same time, and condemned to -death, was, by Ireton’s intercession, pardoned, and he returned in peace -to Wales. Worcester fight sent a batch of prisoners to the fortress, and -in the same year (1651), a preacher at St. Lawrence Jewry, named -Christopher Love, found to be in correspondence with the second Charles, -was beheaded on Tower Hill. A picture of the scene on the Hill at the -time of his death, engraved by a Dutchman, is one of the first drawings, -after those of Strafford and Laud, of an execution on that famous spot. -Lucy Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth, who had been imprisoned in -the Tower with her young son, was released by Cromwell after a long -detention. Cromwell was, during the last years of the Protectorate, in -constant fear of assassination. Miles Syndercombe, at one time in his -confidence, made an attempt on his life in 1657. Having been sentenced -to death, Syndercombe took fate in his own hands, terminated his life in -the solitude of his cell, and the body was dragged at a horse’s tail -from Tower Hill to Tyburn. Dr. John Hewitt, concerned in a rising in -Kent in favour of the Restoration, was beheaded on Tower Hill<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a>{77}</span> with -another plotter, Sir Henry Slingsley. The frequent escapes from Tower -walls during the Commonwealth period would lead to the belief that the -place was not guarded with the customary rigour when Cromwell was in -power, but when he died the Tower became an important centre of -attention. Colonel Fitz, then Lieutenant, had, so it is said, arranged -to admit three hundred men of the Parliamentary army. This little -negotiation was not carried to its desired conclusion, and a fresh -garrison was placed in the fortress on discovery of the plot. But unrest -was evident within the walls; the lack of agreement of those in charge -was followed by the seizure of the Tower by General Monk in the name of -Charles II. He released numbers of Cromwellian prisoners and placed a -strong garrison there under Major Nicholson. During the months that -passed before the return of Charles, the Tower held many important -prisoners. In 1660 Colonel John Lambert was made captive for opposing -Monk’s scheme for the Restoration. Pepys, who comes upon the scene to -illumine the time with his detailed accounts of happenings grave and -gay, gives, “as related by Rugge,” an account of Lambert’s escape. At -eight of the clock at night, it appears, he slid<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a>{78}</span> down, by a rope tied -fast to his window, and was awaited by men ready to take him off by the -river. “She who made the bed being privy to his escape, that night, to -blind the warder when he came to lock the chamber door, went to bed, and -possessed Colonel Lambert’s place and put on his night-cap.” This -interesting female was duly discovered in the morning, after having -deluded the jailer by replying in a manly voice to his “good-night” the -evening before, and was herself made captive for her temerity. Lambert, -who had succeeded in getting to Warwickshire, was recaptured and -subsequently banished.</p> - -<p>When Charles II. came to the throne the early years of his rule were -occupied in punishing, with merciless severity, all who had in any way -been aiders or abettors of those responsible for his father’s tragic -death. In the Restoration year the Marquis of Argyll, afterwards -executed in Edinburgh, was a Tower prisoner. Poor Sir Harry Vane, not in -any way convicted of complicity with the regicides, was brought to Tower -Hill in 1662, and there suffered execution without a shadow of justice -to cover the crime. Pepys rose “at four o’clock in the morning” of the -day when Vane was to suffer. “About eleven o’clock we all went out to -Tower<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a>{79}</span> Hill, and there, over against the scaffold, made on purpose this -day, saw Sir Harry Vane brought. A very great press of people.” The -people of London at that time went out to see men brought to the block, -just as their successors patronise a Lord Mayor’s show. Pepys had taken -a window in Trinity Square, but was unable to see the actual fall of the -axe because “the scaffold was so crowded that we could not see it done.” -Charles II. was the last of the kings to sleep in the Tower the night -before coronation, and he, in keeping with tradition, made a number of -Knights of the Bath who would, after the ceremonies in St. John’s -Chapel, ride with him in the procession to Westminster on the following -day. Of course Pepys had secured a window “in Corne-hill, and there we -had a good room to ourselves, with wine and good cake, and saw the show -very well.... Glorious was the show with gold and silver, that we were -not able to look at it, our eyes at last being so much overcome,” but -the volatile diarist has sufficiently recovered the power of vision to -observe that “both the King and Duke of York took notice of us as they -saw us at the window.” This proved to be one of the “most glorious -cavalcades” that ever left the Tower.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>{80}</span></p> - -<p>The Great Fire of 1666 put the Tower in great danger. Had it reached the -walls and set alight the stores of gunpowder lying within, we should -have had very little of the work of the Conqueror and Henry III. left to -us. The King himself had ordered the demolition of surrounding -buildings, and by such means was the progress of the fire checked; -Pepys, of course, was running about, and we hear of him “on one of the -high places of the Tower” where he was able to look towards London -Bridge and did see “an infinite great fire.” George Villiers, second -Duke of Buckingham, began his series of five imprisonments in the Tower -in 1658, during the Protectorate, and continued them well into Charles’s -reign. But though constantly in trouble his offences were as constantly -forgiven by the King, and he was never a captive very long. Of Colonel -Blood’s escapade in 1671 something will be said in the third chapter, -but the irrepressible Pepys was hunting for treasure—not Crown -jewels—in 1662 when he was led to believe a sum of £7000 was “hid in -the Tower.” He and assistants set to work to dig for this hidden gold, -but “it raining and the work being done in the open garden” the search -was abandoned. The treasure is yet undiscovered. The amazing</p> - -<p><a name="ill_007" id="ill_007"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_009_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_009_sml.jpg" width="500" height="355" alt="Image unavailable: GATEWAY OF BLOODY TOWER WITH ENTRANCE TO JEWEL HOUSE -(WAKEFIELD TOWER)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">GATEWAY OF BLOODY TOWER WITH ENTRANCE TO JEWEL HOUSE -(WAKEFIELD TOWER)</span> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a>{81}</span></p> - -<p>Pepys was himself a captive in the Tower from May 1679 to February 1680, -and seems to have lived fairly well there if the account of his expenses -be any criterion. William Penn was also a captive about this time, and -wrote <i>No Cross, no Crown</i> during his imprisonment. That singular -invention of Titus Oates, called the Popish Plot, sent about forty men -to the block, among them William, Lord Stafford, who was executed on -Tower Hill on December 29, 1680. Three years later, the Rye House Plot -brought Lord William Russell and Algernon Sidney to the Tower and -execution, while Essex, who had also been lodged in the dungeons, and -had, like Russell and Sidney, not actually been concerned in the -assassination scheme planned at Rye House, was found in his prison with -his throat cut.</p> - -<p>James II. omitted the procession from Tower to Westminster, and it has -never since been observed as a necessary prelude to a king’s coronation. -There is no likelihood of the custom ever being revived now that the -Tower has fallen from its high estate as a royal residence. The young -son of Lucy Walters, who had lived in the Tower, as we have seen, as a -boy, now returned as the defeated Duke of Monmouth,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a>{82}</span> beloved of the -people for his handsome face, but unstable in character. He was beheaded -in 1685, on Tower Hill, having been led there with difficulty through -the dense crowd of citizens gathered to see him die, and to cheer him on -the sad way up to the top of the hill and the scaffold. A contemporary -engraving shows the excited populace packed closely together in solid -ranks. Jack Ketch, the headsman, was almost torn limb from limb by the -infuriated mob when he had made four ineffectual strokes on the neck of -the victim and had severed the head with the fifth. The Seven Bishops -came to the Martin Tower in 1688, and Judge Jeffreys, of infamous -record, died in the Bloody Tower—what was the fate that lodged him in a -place so appropriately named?—in 1689. King James had fled the country, -and without bloodshed the great Revolution of 1688 was brought about.</p> - -<p>Sir William Fenwick, who had been found guilty of high treason, was the -only victim brought to Tower Hill during the time of William and Mary, -but there were many prisoners of State in the Tower, partisans, for the -most part, of the Stuarts. Charles, Lord Mohun, was made a prisoner -within the walls in this reign, not for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a>{83}</span> “adhering to their Majesties’ -enemies” but for having killed a celebrated comedian, in a quarrel about -a famous actress. In 1695 Sir Christopher Wren examined the Beauchamp -and Bloody Towers, “to report what it would cost to repaire and putt -them in a condition” to hold more prisoners. The Tower capacities, it is -evident, were being tested to the utmost limit.</p> - -<p>Queen Anne had some French prisoners of war immured in the Tower soon -after her accession, and, in 1712, Sir Robert Walpole was nominally a -captive there. I say nominally, because his apartment during his -confinement from February to July was crowded by fashionable visitors -whose carriages blocked the gateway at the foot of Tower Hill. We are -indeed in modern times when captivity in the old fortress-prison was -treated as a society function; Walpole’s rooms were, after his release, -occupied—I used this milder term, as he could not, in the strict sense, -be called a captive—by the Earl of Lansdowne, author of that -unpresentable comedy, <i>The Old Gallant</i>.</p> - -<p>With the House of Hanover the Tower records take a graver turn. Under -George I. the rebellion of 1715 brought young Derwentwater, taken -prisoner at Preston, to the Tower. Lord Kenmure<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a>{84}</span> was captured at the -same time, with other Jacobite Lords, and was brought, with -Derwentwater, to Tower Hill, and there, together, they were executed. -Kenmure was put to death first, and all marks of his tragic end having -been removed from the scaffold, Derwentwater was brought out of the -house on Tower Hill (where Catherine House now stands), to suffer on the -same block. The crowd in Trinity Square had been disappointed of a third -victim, for Lord Nithsdale, as we shall see later, managed to escape -from the Tower on the evening before. In 1722 the Jacobites plotted to -seize the Tower; their plan failed; they were made prisoners there -instead, and lay in the dungeons for several months. We have passed -through the period of <i>The Black Dwarf</i> and come to the days of -<i>Waverley</i> and the romantic “Forty-five.” In 1744 three men of a -Highland regiment, which had mutinied on being ordered to Flanders after -being promised that foreign service should not be required, were shot on -Tower Green; others were sent to the plantations. This roused great -resentment in Scotland, and prepared the way for the coming of Prince -Charles Edward, who landed on the Island of Eriskay in July 1745. This -young hero of incomparable song and story was, to quote<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a>{85}</span> Andrew Lang, -“the last of a princely lineage whose annals are a world’s wonder for -pity, and crime, and sorrow,” and Prince Charlie “has excelled them all -in his share of the confessed yet mysterious charm of his House.” After -Culloden a sad harvest was reaped on Tower Hill, and we shall hear more -of the last of the Jacobites, who perished at the block for their -loyalty, when we visit the scene of their sufferings.</p> - -<p>A few political prisoners in George III.’s reign; the committal of -Arthur O’Connor, one of the “United Irishmen,” in 1798; the imprisonment -of Sir Francis Burdett in 1810; and the placing there of the Cato Street -conspirators in 1820, brings our list of captives to a close.</p> - -<p>In Queen Victoria’s time, on October 30, 1841, a fire occurred within -the Inner Ward of the Tower, which threatened at one time during its -fury to make sad havoc of surrounding buildings. The storehouse of arms -which stood where the barracks are now placed, to the east of St. -Peter’s Church, was gutted, and the smoke and flames were blown over -towards the White Tower. Fortunately, the store alone was destroyed, and -it was reported to have been ugly enough to deserve its fate. The -Tower’s last trial came upon it, unawares,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a>{86}</span> in January 24, 1885, when -the “Fenians” laid an infernal machine in the Banqueting Room of the -White Tower. The explosion that followed did considerable damage to the -exhibits in the building, and many visitors were injured, but the White -Tower itself, secure in its rock-like strength, was in no way the worse -for what might, in more modern buildings, have rent the walls asunder.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a>{87}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /><br /> -<small>A WALK THROUGH THE TOWER</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The raised portcullis’ arch they pass,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The wicket with its bars of brass,<br /></span> -<span class="i4">The entrance long and low,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Flanked at each turn by loopholes strait<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where bowmen might in ambush wait<br /></span> -<span class="i0">(If force or fraud should burst the gate),<br /></span> -<span class="i4">To gall an entering foe.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><span class="smcap">Scott.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> Gascoyne plan of 1597, reproduced at the end of this book, will show -a straggling line of buildings running partly up the slope of Tower Hill -and terminating in what was known as the Bulwark Gate. It was there that -prisoners, with the exception, of course, of those who came by water to -Traitor’s Gate, were, in Tudor times, delivered to the custodians of the -Tower; and it was there, also, that all who were to be executed on Tower -Hill were given by the Tower authorities into the charge of the City -officials. Grass grew on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a>{88}</span> hill and its river slope in those days, -and, leaving the Tower Gateway behind, one would, as it were, step into -an open meadow, the declivity towards the Moat on one side and the -cottages of Petty Wales on the other. The aspect of this main entrance -to the Tower has been so altered that it is a little difficult nowadays -to reconstruct it in imagination. The Moat made a semicircular bend -where the present wooden stockade stands, and it had to be crossed at -least twice—some accounts say three times—before the Byward Tower -could be reached. The first drawbridge was protected by the Lion Gate; -the Lion Tower stood near by to command that gate, and was surrounded by -the waters of the Moat. All trace of these outer barbicans and waterways -has disappeared; the Towers have been pulled down, the ditch filled up, -to make the modern approach to the Wharf.</p> - -<p>On the right, within the present wooden gateway, the unattractive -erection known as the “ticket-office” occupies the site of the royal -menagerie, which existed here from the days of our Norman kings to the -year 1834, when it was removed to Regent’s Park, and from which the -present Zoo has developed. In the time of Henry III. (1252) the Sheriffs -of London were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a>{89}</span> “ordered to pay fourpence a day for the maintenance of a -white bear, and to provide a muzzle and chain to hold him while fishing -in the Thames.” In Henry’s reign the first elephant seen in England -since the time of the Romans came to the Tower menagerie, and lions and -leopards followed. James I. and his friends came here frequently “to see -lions and bears baited by dogs,” and in 1708 Strype, the historian, -mentions “eagles, owls, and two cats of the mountain,” as occupants of -the cages. In 1829, and during the last five years of its existence -here, the collection consisted of lions, tigers, leopards, a jaguar, -puma, ocelot, caracal, chetah, striped hyæna, hyæna dog, wolves, civet -cats, grey ichneumon, paradoxurus, brown coati, racoon, and a pit of -bears. The “Master of the King’s bears and apes” was an official of some -importance, and received the princely salary of three halfpence a day; -but this was in Plantagenet times.</p> - -<p><i>Middle Tower.</i>—The first “Tower” that the visitor of to-day passes -under is called, by reason of its position at one time in the centre of -the old ditch, the Middle Tower. Its great circular bastions commanded -the outer drawbridge, and its gateway was defended by a double -portcullis. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a>{90}</span> sharp turn in the approach—formerly a bridge, now a -paved roadway—to this Tower would make it impossible to “rush” this -gateway with any success. When Elizabeth returned as Queen to the Tower, -which she had left, five years before, as prisoner, it was in front of -this Middle Tower that she alighted from her horse and fell on her knees -“to return thanks to God,” as Bishop Burnet writes, “who had delivered -her from a danger so imminent, and from an escape as miraculous as that -of David.”</p> - -<p><i>The Moat and Byward Tower.</i>—The bridge and causeway connecting the -Middle and Byward Towers has altered little in appearance, and looks, -to-day, very much as it does in Gascoyne’s plan. But the broad Moat has -been drained; the water was pumped out in 1843, and the bed filled up -with gravel and soil to form a drill ground. It was across that portion -of the Moat lying to the north, under Tower Hill, that two attempts at -escape were made in the last years of Charles I.’s reign. Monk, the -future Duke of Albermarle, had been taken captive at the siege of -Nantwich by Fairfax, and was a prisoner in the Tower for three years. -With him were brought two fellow-prisoners, Lord Macguire and Colonel -MacMahon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a>{91}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_008" id="ill_008"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_010_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_010_sml.jpg" width="500" height="351" alt="Image unavailable: MIDDLE TOWER (WEST FRONT), NOW THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOWER -BUILDINGS, BUT FORMERLY SURROUNDED BY THE MOAT" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">MIDDLE TOWER (WEST FRONT), NOW THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOWER -BUILDINGS, BUT FORMERLY SURROUNDED BY THE MOAT</span> -</div> - -<p>They managed to escape from their cell by sawing through the door, at -night, and lowered themselves from the Tower walls to the ditch by means -of a rope which they had found, according to directions conveyed to them -from without, inside a loaf of bread. They succeeded in swimming the -Moat, but were unlucky enough to surprise a sentry, stationed near the -Middle Tower, who had heard the splash they made when leaving the rope -and jumping into the water. On their coming to the opposite bank they -were re-taken, cast back into the prison, and shortly afterwards hanged -at Tyburn. The Lieutenant of the Tower was heavily fined for “allowing -the escape,” poor man! A few years afterwards, Lord Capel, made captive -at the surrender of Colchester Castle, broke prison by having had tools -and a rope secretly conveyed to him with instructions as to which part -of the Moat he should find most shallow. With deliberation he performed -all that was necessary to get himself outside the walls, but he found -the depth of the ditch exceed his expectations. Attempting to wade -across, he was nearly dragged under water by the weight of mud that -clogged his feet, and was, at one point in his perilous progress through -the water, about to call loudly for help<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a>{92}</span> lest he should be unable to -continue the exertion necessary and so be drowned. However, cheered by -friends waiting under cover of bushes on the Tower Hill bank, he came at -last to firm ground. He was carried to rooms in the Temple, and from -thence conveyed, some days later, to Lambeth. But the boatman who had -carried the fugitive and his friends from the Temple Stairs, guessing -who his passenger was, raised an alarm. Capel was discovered, put again -in the Tower, and beheaded in March, 1649, beside Westminster Hall. The -grim-looking Byward Tower is said to have been so named from the fact -that the by-word, or password, had to be given at its gateway before -admittance could be gained even to the outer ward of the fortress. On -that side of it nearest the river, a postern gateway leads to a small -drawbridge across the ditch. This gave access to the royal landing-place -on the wharf, immediately opposite, and in this way privileged persons -were able to enter the Tower without attention to those formalities -necessary to gain entry to the buildings in the ordinary way. In the -Byward Tower, to the right, under the archway, is the Warders’ Parlour, -a finely-vaulted room, and outside its doorway we meet one or two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a>{93}</span> of -those Yeomen Warders, whose picturesque uniform, so closely associated -with the Tower, was designed by Holbein the painter, and dates from -Tudor days. These Yeomen Warders are sworn in as special constables, -whose duties lie within the jurisdiction of the Tower, and they take -rank with sergeant-majors in the army. When State trials were held in -Westminster Hall the Yeoman Gaoler escorted the prisoner to and from the -Tower, carrying the processional axe, still preserved in the King’s -House here. The edge of the axe was turned towards the captive after his -trial, during the sad return to the prison-house, if he had—as was -nearly always the case—been condemned to die. This Yeoman still carries -the historic axe in State processions, but it is now merely an emblem of -a vanished power to destroy. Allied to the Warders are a body of men -known as the Yeomen of the Guard, or Beefeaters, who attend on the -King’s person at all his State functions, whether it be in procession or -at levée. The Yeomen were first seen beyond Tower walls in the -coronation procession of Henry VII. The eastern front of the Byward -Tower has a quaint, old-world appearance, and has altered little since -Elizabethan days.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a>{94}</span></p> - -<p><i>Bell Tower.</i>—This old Tower, at the angle of the Ballium Wall, -contained at one time, within the turret still to be seen above its -roof, the Tower bell, which in former days was used as an alarm signal. -In the regulations of 1607 we find that “when the Tower bell doth ring -at nights for the shutting in of the gates, all the prisoners, with -their servants, are to withdraw themselves into their chambers, and not -to goe forth that night.” The walls, built by Henry III., are of immense -strength, the masonry being solid for fully ten feet above the ground. -The Tower contains an upper and a lower dungeon, the former lit by -comparatively modern windows, the latter still possessing narrow -openings or arrow-slits. In the upper cell, the walls of which are eight -feet thick, four notable prisoners were confined—Bishop Fisher and Anne -Boleyn in Henry VIII.’s time, Princess Elizabeth in Mary’s reign, and -Lady Arabella Stuart in the days of James I. Fisher was eighty years old -when brought to linger here “in cold, in rags, and in misery.” The aged -Bishop had refused to comply with the Act of Succession and acknowledge -Henry supreme head of the Church of England. From this prison he wrote -to Cromwell, “My dyett, also, God knoweth how slender it is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a>{95}</span> at any -tymes, and now in myn age my stomak may nott awaye but with a few kynd -of meats, which if I want, I decay forthwith, and fall into crafs and -diseases of my bodye, and kan not keep myself in health.” But no -alleviation of his sufferings did he obtain, and early in the morning, -when winter and spring had passed away, and slender rays of June -sunshine had found entrance to his dismal dwelling-place, the Lieutenant -of the Tower came to him to announce that a message from the King had -arrived, and that Fisher was to suffer death that day. The Bishop took -this as happy tidings, granting release from intolerable conditions of -life. At nine o’clock he was carried to Little Tower Hill (towards the -present Royal Mint buildings), praying as he went. On the scaffold he -exclaimed, “<i>Accedite ad eum et illuminamini, et facies vestræ non -confundentur</i>,” with hands uplifted, and, having spoken some few words -to the crowd around, was repeating the words of the Thirty-first Psalm, -“In thee, O Lord, have I put my trust,” when the axe fell. Into the -lower dungeon Sir Thomas More was taken in the same month as Fisher -(April 1534). More had been friend and companion to King Henry, and had -held the office of Lord Chancellor after Wolsey. But past friendship and -high services were forgotten<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a>{96}</span> when, with Fisher, he refused to accept -the Oath in the Act of Succession, and he was committed to the Tower. -For fifteen months he lay confined in this “close, filthy prison, shut -up among mice and rats,” and was so weakened as to be “scarce able to -stand,” when taken to the scaffold, on Tower Hill, on July 6, 1535. In -Mr. Prothero’s <i>Psalms in Human Life</i> his last moments are thus -described:—“The scaffold was unsteady, and, as he put his foot on the -ladder, he said to the Lieutenant, ‘I pray thee see me safe up, and for -my coming down let me shift for myself.’ After kneeling down on the -scaffold and repeating the Psalm ‘Have mercy upon me, O God’ (Ps. li), -which had always been his favourite prayer, he placed his head on the -low log that served as a block, and received the fatal stroke.” His head -was placed on London Bridge, but soon afterwards it was claimed by his -devoted daughter and was buried with her at Canterbury when she died, in -1544. The bodies of Fisher and More are buried side by side, in St. -Peter’s, on Tower Green, but Fisher’s remains had rested for some years -in Allhallows Barking, on Tower Hill, before removal to the Tower -chapel. At the entrance to the upper chamber of the Bell Tower from the -passage on<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a>{97}</span> the wall, known as Queen Elizabeth’s Walk, there is the -following inscription on the stone:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p><small>BI·TORTVRE·STRAVNGE·MY·TROVTH·WAS·TRIED·YET OF·MY·LIBERTY·DENIED: -THER·FOR·RESON·HATH·ME PERSWADED THAT PASYENS MVST BE YMBRASYD: -THOGH HARD·FORTVNE·CHASYTH·ME·WYTH·SMART·YET·PASYENS SHALL·PREVAYL</small>.</p></div> - -<p>Beyond the Bell Tower a broad window, with balcony, will be noticed in -the adjacent King’s House. This gives light to a room known as the -Council Chamber, in which Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators were -tried and condemned to the rack. Above the fireplace in this room an -elaborate carving preserves the features of the first Stuart who sat on -the English throne, and, near by, the many virtues—lest their existence -should be doubted by unbelievers—of that amiable monarch are set forth -for all to read who may. In this room Pepys “did go to dine” (February -1663-4) with Sir J. Robinson, then Lieutenant of the Tower, “his -ordinary table being very good.” James, Duke of Monmouth, taken as a -fugitive after Sedgemoor, was imprisoned in this house (1685) till his -execution, and here he parted from his wife and children during the last -sad hours.</p> - -<p><i>Traitor’s Gate and St. Thomas’s Tower.</i>—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a>{98}</span>If any were asked what -impressed them most during their visit to the Tower, or what they -desired to see when planning that visit, I think that they would name -the Traitor’s Gate. It is certainly the best preserved of the Tudor -portions, has been least spoiled by intrusion of irrelevant things, and -is left in its quietness to the doves that incessantly flit in and out -of the crevices of its stones and rest upon the bars of its massive -gateway. Above it rises the great arch, sixty-two feet span, supporting -St. Thomas’s Tower, built, as has already been stated, by Henry III., -and named after St. Thomas of Canterbury. This “Watergate,” as it was at -one time called, was the only direct way of entering the Tower from the -river, and, before the draining of the moat, the gate here was always -partly covered by water, and boats were brought right up to the steps in -front of the Bloody Tower. They were moored to the heavy iron ring that -is still to be seen at the left of the archway of the tower just -mentioned. The older steps will be noticed beneath the more modern -stone-facings laid upon them, and those steps have been trodden by some -of the most famous men and women in our history. It will be remembered -that between these steps and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a>{99}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_009" id="ill_009"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_011_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_011_sml.jpg" width="500" height="366" alt="Image unavailable: THE TRAITOR’S GATE, FROM WITHIN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE TRAITOR’S GATE, FROM WITHIN</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">gloomy archway leading up to Tower Green, the condemned Sir Thomas More -met, on his way to the Bell Tower, his daughter, who, in a frenzy of -grief, thrust her way through the guards and flung herself on her -father’s neck, crying, in despair, “O my father, my father!” Those who -record the scene say that even the stern warders were moved to tears -when the father gave his child his last blessing and she was led away -from him. To these steps came Anne Boleyn; Cromwell, Earl of Essex; -Queen Katherine Howard; Seymour, Duke of Somerset; Lady Jane Grey, -Princess Elizabeth, Devereux, Earl of Essex; the Duke of Monmouth, and -the Seven Bishops. In the room above the Gate, Lord Grey de Wilton died -(1614), after eleven years of imprisonment on the mere accusation of -wishing to marry Arabella Stuart, “without permission of King James I.” -St. Thomas’s Tower at one time, as is evident from the old piscina -discovered there, contained a chapel; the tower has been carefully -restored, without and within, and is now the residence of the Keeper of -the Crown Jewels.</p> - -<p><i>The Bloody Tower.</i>—In Henry VIII.’s reign this was known as the Garden -Tower, and took its name from the Constable’s garden, now the Parade<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> in -front of the King’s House; but since Elizabeth’s time it has been called -the Bloody Tower, owing, it is surmised, to the suicide therein of Henry -Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, in 1585. But that is the least of -its mysteries. It was within this tower that the young Princes -disappeared in July, 1483. They had been removed from the royal palace -near this tower when Richard assumed kingship, and placed within these -grim chambers. They were closely watched; all help from without would be -offered in vain; their spirits drooped, and the feeling crept upon them -that they would never leave their prison-house alive. Sir Robert -Brackenbury had become Lieutenant of the Tower: to him Richard, who was -riding towards Gloucester, sent a messenger with letters asking him if -he would be willing to rid the King of the Princes. This messenger had -delivered his papers to the Lieutenant as he knelt at prayer in the -Chapel of St. John in the White Tower. Brackenbury refused the King’s -request, and said he would be no party to such an act even if his -refusal cost him his life. The messenger returned in haste, spurring his -horse westward, and overtook Richard at Warwick. The King finding -Brackenbury obdurate, sent off<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> Sir James Tyrrell with a warrant to -obtain possession of the keys of the Tower for one night. The keys were -given to him, and he assumed command of the place for the time. Two -ruffians, John Dighton and Miles Forrest—some say a third was there, -reminding one of the mysterious third murderer in <i>Macbeth</i>—crept into -the bedroom of the sleeping boys and smothered them with the bedclothes. -Shakespeare has painted the scene so vividly that, though the actual -manner of death is unknown, this one is accepted as probably nearest the -truth. Tyrrell saw the dead bodies, gave orders that they should be -buried secretly “at the foot of the stairs,” then, resigning the keys, -rode off to give the news to Richard. Tyrrell came himself to death on -Tower Hill in later years, and his accomplices died in misery. In -Charles II.’s days two skeletons were found “under the steps,” not of -this tower but of the White Tower, and were laid in Westminster Abbey.</p> - -<p>Sir Walter Raleigh was a captive in the Bloody Tower from 1604-1616, and -in its chambers he wrote the portion of his <i>History of the World</i> that -he was able to finish before his later troubles and death put an end to -his labours. It is pleasant to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> hear of Raleigh spending his days, with -his great work to cheer him, at one time sitting in the Constable’s -garden, at another conversing from the walls with those who passed to -and fro below. But his writings were not sufficient to satisfy the -energies of this son of an energetic age. He set up a laboratory, with -retorts and furnaces, and made chemical experiments; and so it happened -that at this time, to quote the elder Disraeli, “Raleigh was surrounded, -in the Tower, by the highest literary and scientific circle in the -nation.” These men of mark in the earlier years of the first Stuart King -came as guests to the Tower, or had the misfortune to be detained there -“during the King’s pleasure.” Raleigh’s wife and son lived with him, and -they had their own servants to wait on them. But the Lieutenant of the -Tower, Sir George Harvey, with whom Raleigh had spent long evenings and -with whom he had made warm friendship, was succeeded by Sir William -Waad, who seems to have taken a personal dislike to Sir Walter, and -contrived to make his life as miserable as possible. In 1610 Raleigh was -kept a close prisoner for three months, and his wife and child, no -longer allowed to share his captivity, were “banished the Tower”—a -decree that would prove<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> only too welcome to many—and lived for some -time in a house on Tower Hill. In 1615 the King consented to release -Raleigh, and allow him to command an expedition to El Dorado, which set -off in 1617. What the result of that unfortunate voyage was all know: -mutiny and despair may best describe its end. The King was furious; his -greed for Spanish gold was unsatisfied; Spain demanded the head of “one -who had been her mortal enemy.” A decision had to be made whether -Raleigh should be delivered to the Spaniard or put back in the Tower. -His wife planned escape for the husband she had sacrificed every comfort -to aid. On a Sunday night, when Sir Walter was detained in the City—in -his wife’s house in Broad Street—he put on disguise, crept through the -narrow lanes to Tower Hill, went down by Allhallows Church to Tower -Dock, where a boat was waiting to receive him and take him to a ship at -Tilbury. But when the watermen put out into the river they saw a second -boat following them closely; Sir Walter was betrayed by a man he had -trusted, and found himself a prisoner in the Tower once again. He was -shut up in the Brick Tower, where he awaited his trial, then removed to -the Gate House, by Westminster Hall. When his sentence was passed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span> and -he had but a few days to live, his wife remained with him, and they -parted at the midnight before execution. In the morning the Dean of -Westminster gave him his last Communion, and at eight o’clock he went -out to Old Palace Yard, cheerfully prepared for what was to follow.</p> - -<p>In the Bloody Tower Sir Thomas Overbury was poisoned in 1613. This is -one of the blackest crimes that stain Tower history. Overbury had been a -friend of Raleigh’s, and had often visited him in his confinement; now -Sir Thomas himself, because he had condemned the marriage between the -Earl of Somerset and Lady Frances Howard, was brought to the same tower. -Lady Frances determined to have Overbury put out of the way, and a -notorious quack and procuress of the period, Mrs. Turner, had been hired -to administer the drug. But this slow-poisoning proving too lengthy a -process, two hired assassins ended Overbury’s sufferings by smothering -him, at night, with the pillows of his bed. Some time afterwards, by the -confession of a boy who had been at the time in the employment of the -apothecary from whom the drugs were bought, the crime was disclosed. -Horror and indignation caused a public outcry for vengeance: the -Lieutenant of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_010" id="ill_010"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_012_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_012_sml.jpg" width="351" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: THE BLOODY TOWER AND JEWEL HOUSE (WAKEFIELD TOWER), -LOOKING EAST" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE BLOODY TOWER AND JEWEL HOUSE (WAKEFIELD TOWER), -LOOKING EAST</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the Tower, Elwes, with Mrs. Turner and the two murderers, were all put -to death. Somerset and his Countess were imprisoned in the room in the -Bloody Tower, where Overbury had died; they were eventually pardoned and -“lived in seclusion and disgrace.”</p> - -<p>Another victim, who died in this tower during Charles I.’s reign, was -Sir John Eliot, a man of great abilities and at one time Vice-Admiral of -Devon. He had already been imprisoned, and released, before his entry to -the Tower in 1629, and he passed away, in his cell, in 1632. Mr. -Trevelyan has said of him, “His letters, speeches, and actions in the -Tower reveal a spirit of cheerfulness and even of humour, admirable in -one who knows that he has chosen to die in prison in the hands of -victorious enemies.” During his last months he contracted consumption in -his unhealthy quarters and suffered harsh treatment. Even when Sir John -had died the hard-hearted King refused to allow his body to be given to -his relatives for burial, and commanded him “to be buried in the parish -in which he died.” He was laid to rest in the Chapel on Tower Green, -which may be called the parish church of the Tower.</p> - -<p>Felton, the murderer of Buckingham, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span> thrown into this tower in 1628 -and Archbishop Laud was prisoner here from December 16, 1640, to January -10, 1644. Here, also, in July, 1683, Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex “cutt -his own throat,” as the Register of St. Peter ad Vincula shows. The -infamous Judge Jeffreys came here as prisoner in 1688, having been -“taken” in a low ale-house in Wapping, and is reported to have spent his -days in Bloody Tower “imbibing strong drink,” from the effects of which -employment he died in 1689. This old tower has tragedy and misery enough -in its records to deserve its name, and it is a mistake on the part of -Tower authorities to allow so interesting a building to be closed -altogether to the public. The narrow chamber above the archway on the -south side still contains all the machinery for raising and lowering the -portcullis which, when down, would at one time have prevented all access -to the Inner Ward. This is believed to be the only ancient portcullis in -England that is still in working order.</p> - -<p><i>The Wakefield Tower.</i>—The lower portion of this tower is, with the -White Tower, one of the oldest portions of all the buildings, and was -laid down in Norman times. Henry III. rebuilt the upper part, and it -served as the entrance to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span> his palace, which lay to the east. During the -Commonwealth the great hall in which Anne Boleyn was tried, and which -was attached to this tower, was demolished. The name “Wakefield” was -given to the tower after the battle of Wakefield in 1460, when the -captive Yorkists were lodged here. In former times the tower had been -called the Record Tower and the Hall Tower. In the octagonal chamber -where the Crown Jewels are now kept, the recess to the south-east was at -one time an oratory. In Tower records of the thirteenth century it is so -spoken of. Here tradition asserts that Henry VI. was murdered by Duke -Richard of Gloucester, who, entering the chamber from the palace, found -Henry at prayer and treacherously stabbed him to death. To the dungeon -beneath this tower the men who were “out in the Forty-Five,” and who -were taken captive after that rebellion which was crushed at Culloden, -were brought and huddled together with so little regard for the -necessity of fresh air that many of them died on the damp earthen floor -of the cell. The walls of this dungeon are thirteen feet thick; from -floor to vaulted roof, within, there is only ten feet space. Those men -who survived even the terrors of this place, and whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span> hearts remained -true to the royal house of Stuart, were shipped off to the West Indies, -and so ended “an auld sang.” The wonder, the bravery, the sacrifice and -sadness of it all is set down for after ages to marvel at in <i>Waverley</i>. -Happy those who fell at Culloden, for they, at least, rest under the -heather; they escaped the miserable English dungeons and the -wickednesses of the plantations.</p> - -<p>As we leave the Wakefield Tower we pass down under the archway of the -Bloody Tower, and, in going eastwards and turning to the left a few -yards farther on, come to the foot of the grassy slope at the top of -which stands the great White Tower, tinkered at by Wren, but otherwise, -to-day, much as the Conqueror left it. In this now open ground, where -has been placed the gun-carriage on which the body of Queen Victoria was -carried from Windsor railway station to St. George’s Chapel on that -memorable 2nd of February, 1901, rose, in Plantagenet and Tudor days, -the Royal Palace in the Tower, and the Hall in which the Courts of -Justice sat. The Court of Common Pleas was held in this great hall by -the river, a Gothic building, dating, probably, from the reign of Henry -III.; the Court of King’s Bench being held in the Lesser Hall “under the -east turret of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span> the Keep”—or White Tower. At certain times “the right -of public entry” of all citizens to the Tower was insisted on. But a -certain ceremonial had to be observed beforehand. The “aldermen and -commoners met in Allhallows Barking Church, on Tower Hill, and chose six -sage persons to go as a deputation to the Tower, and ask leave to see -the King, and demand free access for all people to the courts of law -held within the Tower.” It was also “to be granted that no guard should -keep watch over them, or close the gates”—a most necessary precaution. -Their request being granted by the King “the six messengers returned to -Barking Church ... and the Commons then elected three men of standing to -act as spokesmen. Great care was taken that no person should go into the -royal presence who was in rags or shoeless. Every one was to have his -hair cut close and his face newly shaved. Mayor, aldermen, sheriff, -cryer, beadles, were all to be clean and neat, and every one was to lay -aside his cape and cloak, and put on his coat and surcoat.”</p> - -<p><i>The White Tower or Keep.</i>—This is the very heart and centre of the -Tower buildings, and all the lesser towers and connecting walls, making -the Inner and Outer Wards, and the broad moat<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> encircling all, are but -the means of protection and inviolable security of this ancient keep. -Within its rock-like walls a threatened king could live in security. -Here were provided the elementary necessaries of life—a storehouse for -food, a well to supply fresh water, a great fireplace (in the thickness -of the wall), and a place of devotion, all within the walls of this one -tower. The doorway by which we enter, after passing the ridiculous -ticket-box and unnecessary policeman, was cut through the solid wall in -Henry VIII.’s time. At the foot of the stairs giving access, the bones -of the murdered Princes were found in a small chest, some ten feet below -the ground, during Charles II.’s reign.</p> - -<p>The winding stairway within the wall leads us to the western end of the -Chapel of St. John, which is, with the possible exception of the Lady -Chapel at Durham, the finest Norman chapel in England. It has a -beautiful arcading, with heavy circular pillars, square capitals and -bases, and a wide triforium over the aisles. Here is a perfect Norman -church in miniature. The south aisle at one time communicated with the -royal palace, and the gallery with the State apartments of the keep. It -is only within recent years that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span> sanctity of the place has been -again observed, and now visitors behave here as in any other consecrated -building; but it was for many years used as a sort of store chamber, and -the authorities at one time proposed turning it into a military tailors’ -workshop! That was in the mid-nineteenth century, when England in -general had fallen into a state of artistic <i>zopf</i> and the daughters of -music were brought low. So low, too, had the guardians of the nation -fallen in their ideas that this beautiful building meant nothing more to -them than a place, a commodious place, of four stone walls, that was -lying idle and might be “put to some practical use”! The Prince Consort -made timely intervention and the desecration was not persisted in. It -was in this chapel that the rabble in Richard II.’s time found -Archbishop Sudbury at prayer; at prayer, too, in this chapel, knelt -Brackenbury when the messenger from King Richard III. brought demands -for the Princes’ murder; here Elizabeth of York, Queen of Henry VII., -lay in state after death; here Queen Mary, after the death of her -brother, Edward VI., attended Mass and gave thanks for the suppression -of revolt; and here the vacillating Northumberland, father-in-law of -Lady Jane Grey, declared<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> himself a Roman Catholic lest he should lose -his life, but without the effect he desired. In this solemn place, too, -those who aspired to knighthood watched their arms at the altar, passing -the night in vigil before the day when the king would elect them to the -order. This was the place of worship of our Norman and Plantagenet -kings. Could any other building in the country claim like associations? -Yet these things slip the mind of a generation, and then is the hallowed -ground made desolate.</p> - -<p>The large rooms entered from the chapel are the former State apartments, -now given over to the housing of a collection of weapons and armour -which is described on the show-cases, and therefore need not be detailed -here. In these rooms Baliol in the reign of Edward I., and King David of -Scotland in that of Edward III., were kept prisoners, but not in the -strictest sense. Other notable captives here were King John of France -(after the battle of Poitiers), Prince (afterwards King) James of -Scotland, and Charles, Duke of Orleans—all of whom have been spoken of -in the previous chapter. Several models of the Tower buildings, made at -various periods, will be found in these rooms. The -larger—western—apartment,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_011" id="ill_011"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_013_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_013_sml.jpg" width="363" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: INTERIOR OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, LOOKING -EAST" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">INTERIOR OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, LOOKING -EAST</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">in which are preserved the block and axe used at the last execution on -Tower Hill, in 1747, is the Banqueting Hall of the Keep, and was the -scene, so some maintain, of the trial of Anne Boleyn, in May, 1536. -Raleigh, in 1601, watched the execution of Essex from one of its western -windows. A mounted figure of Queen Elizabeth, dressed as on the occasion -of her progress to St. Paul’s Cathedral to render thanks for the -destruction of the Armada, has been removed from this room to a dark -corner of the crypt of St. John’s Chapel; its place is taken by an -illuminated show-case in which the Coronation robes of the reigning -sovereign are displayed. Models of the instruments of torture—the rack, -thumb-screws, scavenger’s daughter, iron neck-collar, and so forth—are -shown in this room, reminding us that though torture was never legal -punishment in England, it was practised in Tower dungeons, especially in -Tudor times, when, in the wisdom of those in power, occasion demanded -it. But the whole business is too despicable to dwell upon.</p> - -<p>A continuation of the winding stairway in the south-west angle of the -wall gives access to the upper floor and ancient Council Chamber, which -is the room entered first. Here Richard II. abdicated<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> in favour of -Henry IV. Froissart, describing the ceremony, says, “King Richard was -released from his prison and entered the hall which had been prepared -for the occasion, royally dressed, the sceptre in his hand and the crown -on his head, but without supporters on either side.” He said, after -raising the crown from his head and placing it before him, “Henry, fair -cousin, and Duke of Lancaster, I present and give to you this crown with -which I was crowned King of England, and all the rights dependent on -it.” When all was over and Henry “had called in a public notary that an -authentic act should be drawn up of the proceedings,” Richard was led -back “to where he had come from, and the Duke and other lords mounted -their horses to return home.” It was in this Council Chamber of the -White Tower, also, that Richard III. enacted that dramatic scene on -which the curtain fell with the death of Hastings, the Lord Chamberlain. -The lords were seated at council when Richard entered the broad, low -room in anger, and exclaimed, to their astonishment, “What are they -worthy to have that compass and imagine my destruction?” The lords, sore -amazed at this, sat dumb, and none dared speak lest he be accused. Then -the irate Richard bared his withered arm and called on all to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> look what -sorcery had done. His protestation had, however, been somewhat -overacted, and his lords in the Chamber of Council saw that he was but -in a fit of spleen and hasty to pick a quarrel with any. Still, Lord -Hastings took courage to stand and reply, “If any have so heinously -done, they are worthy of heinous punishment.” “What!” said Richard, -starting up; “thou servest me ill, I ween, with ‘ifs.’ I tell thee they -have so done, and that I will make good on thy body, traitor.” In great -anger he strode to a table and hit it heavily with his clenched fist. At -this signal a great number of armed men, who had been cunningly hid in -the stone passage that lay within the thickness of the wall, entered the -room and blocked the doorways. Richard, coming into the centre of the -chamber and pointing to Hastings, exclaimed, “I arrest thee, traitor!” -“What, me, my lord?” replied the Chamberlain. “Yea, thee, traitor.” And -Hastings being seized and made prisoner, “I will not to dinner,” -continued his accuser, “till I see thy head off.” Without time to say a -word on his own behalf, Lord Hastings, in order that the repast of -Richard should not be unduly delayed, was hurried down the narrow, -winding stairway in the north-east turret of the White Tower and led<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> -out upon what is now the parade ground, below. It is told that the way -to the block on Tower Green near by was greatly obstructed by stones and -much timber then being used in rebuilding houses within the Tower walls. -Richard was watching with impatience, from a window in the Council -Chamber, the progress of his victim to death, and, in order to avoid -delay, Hastings was compelled by his captors to lay his head on a rough -log of wood that blocked the path. So was he brought to the axe ere -Richard, satisfied, and himself again, went to dine.</p> - -<p>The crypt of St. John’s Chapel (which, with the dungeons, is shown only -to those who have obtained an order and are accompanied by a special -warder), a very dark place before the comparatively modern windows were -put in, was used as a prison cell, and here were confined those captured -in the Wyatt rebellion. Prisoners’ inscriptions may still be seen on the -wall on either side of the smaller dungeon, erroneously termed -“Raleigh’s Cell.” This grim chamber, hollowed out of the wall of the -crypt, would, when the door was shut and all light of day excluded, have -been the most unwelcome hole for any human being to linger in. To assert -that Raleigh sat and wrote here, by rushlight, is drawing too heavily on -our credulity. Even “that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> beast Waad” would not have put his famous -prisoner into such a place of darkness. The crypt has a remarkable -barrel-shaped roof, the stones of which are most cunningly set together. -The walls are of amazing thickness, as may be seen by the depth of the -window recesses. Some few years ago a quantity of stained glass was -found in this crypt; some of it of sixteenth-century date, the remainder -modern and of little value. Fragments of this glass have been put -together with care and skill and placed in the small windows of the -Chapel of St. John, above.</p> - -<p>The larger dungeons of the Keep are entered beneath the stairway that -leads to the parade-ground from the level of the crypt we have just -visited. These lower places of confinement have been sadly modernised, -white-washed, and have all the appearance of respectable wine-cellars, -lit by electric light. In these once gloomy chambers, deep down below -the level of the ground, stood the rack; the cries of victims would not -be heard beyond the massive walls. This instrument of torture was an -open frame of solid oak about three feet high. The prisoner was laid -within it, on the bare ground, his wrists and ankles being tied to -rollers at each extremity. By means of levers these<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span> rollers were moved -in opposite directions and the body of the prisoner was thereby raised -to the level of the frame. While his body was thus suspended he was -questioned, and if his replies came tardily a turn or two of the -rollers, which threatened to pull his joints from their sockets, was -considered necessary to extract from the sufferer any information -desired. In this place, and in this way, Guy Fawkes was racked after -Gunpowder Plot, and, between the periods of torture, was confined in a -small cell called Little Ease, which was constructed so skilfully that -the captive could neither lie down nor stand up with any satisfaction, -but was compelled to exist there in a cramped and stooping posture. This -miserable cell lay between the dungeon containing the rack and the great -dungeon under the crypt of St. John’s Chapel. Though the formidable -iron-studded door of Little Ease, with its ingenious system of locks and -bolts, is still to be seen, the cell itself has been broken through to -give entrance to the black vault beyond. Yet even to-day, in spite of -foolish “improvements,” some idea of the power of Little Ease to -administer suffering can be gained. In this, at one time, circumscribed -space, Guy Fawkes spent his last weeks, with no fresh air to breathe and -no glimmer of light to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> cheer. The gloomy dungeon, to which Little Ease -now gives access, under St. John’s crypt, was the foulest and blackest -of all the Tower cells. Even now it is a place of horror, though an -attempt has been made to enlarge the single window, high up on the -eastern side, and admit a little more light. Hundreds of Jews were shut -up here in King John’s time, charged, as has already been stated in the -previous chapter, with tampering with the coinage of the realm. No light -of any kind entered the place in those days, the earthen floor was -carefully kept damp for greater inconvenience, the air was poisonous, -and the place was at all times infested with rats. This cell rivals in -horror the Black Hole of Calcutta, and in it men were, to use a -Meredithian expression, chilled in subterranean sunlessness. In the -basement chambers, to the west of this dungeon and of the torture -chamber, a well has, within recent years, been discovered, together with -a secret passage leading towards the moat and the river. In connection -with the discovery of this passage it is stated that a grated cell had -been found in which the waters of the Thames flowed and receded with the -tide. It is possible that some poor sufferer may have been put, for a -time, in this place of horror, but we may be thankful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> that, as no -details have survived time’s ravages, it is not necessary for us to -demand definite information on the subject. There are certain corners of -Tower history that are better left unexplored. The dungeons of the White -Tower might conceivably have been left in something of their original -state. The “modernisation” they have undergone has robbed them of all -appearance of age. They have the look (with the exception of the Jews’ -dungeon) of store cellars constructed last week. Utility has done its -best to kill romance.</p> - -<p><i>Tower Green.</i>—Beneath the western wall of the White Tower there is -massed together, and now railed in, a curious collection of old guns and -mortars, mostly trophies won from France, Spain and Portugal. Some are -early examples of English cannon found in the <i>Mary Rose</i>, wrecked off -Spithead in 1545. Two solemn ravens hover about these old guns day by -day, and perch at times, with significant gravity, on the site of the -block near by. Tower Green was the place of private, as Tower Hill was -the place of public, execution, and was reserved for culprits of Royal -rank. This open space in the centre of the buildings saw prisoners led -from cell to cell, saw many a headless body carried on rude stretcher to -burial<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_012" id="ill_012"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_014_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_014_sml.jpg" width="500" height="363" alt="Image unavailable: THE KING’S HOUSE FROM TOWER GREEN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE KING’S HOUSE FROM TOWER GREEN</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">in St. Peter’s, and was the place of revels on far-off coronation eves -when the King of the morrow was feasting in the Keep above or in the -Palace. It saw, also, the last sad moments of three Queens of England. -In the far corner, towards the Bloody Tower, lay the Constable’s Garden -in which Raleigh walked, and in which the proud Princess Elizabeth had -paced along the paths that her favourite of later days had been sent by -the prouder Queen to tread. Farther westward, and marked by a sentry-box -at the door, is the King’s House, in which lives the present Major of -the Tower. It was from this house that Lord Nithsdale escaped, on the -eve of his execution, in 1716. His wife, who had ridden in bitter, -wintry weather from Scotland in order to make appeal to King George on -her husband’s behalf, found only disappointment as a result of the -appeal to royal clemency. But she was not to be daunted by her rebuff at -Court. Though the attempt seemed quite a hopeless one, she was -determined to make all effort possible to save her lord from the -scaffold. From her lodgings in Drury Lane she walked to the Tower, -accompanied by her landlady, Mrs. Mills, and a friend, Mrs. Morgan. Mrs. -Morgan consented to wear a dress belonging to Mrs. Mills<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> above her own -dress, and Lady Nithsdale proposed to get her husband away from the -Tower disguised in this extra dress. When she reached the King’s House -she was allowed to take in with her only one friend at a time, and so -brought in Mrs. Morgan, who had, she explained, come to bid Lord -Nithsdale farewell. When the custodian of the prison room had retired, -Lord Nithsdale was hastily dressed in the spare set of female garments -and Mrs. Morgan was sent out to bring in “her maid, Evans.” Mrs. Mills -came upstairs in answer to the call, and held a handkerchief to her face -“as was natural,” wrote Lady Nithsdale when describing the events -afterwards, “for a person going to take a last leave of a friend before -execution. I desired her to do this that my lord might go out in the -same manner. Her eyebrows were inclined to be sandy, and as my lord’s -were dark and thick, I had prepared some paint to disguise him. I had -also got an artificial head-dress of the same coloured hair as hers, and -rouged his face and cheeks, to conceal his beard which he had not had -time to shave. All this provision I had before left in the Tower. I made -Mrs. Mills take off her own hood and put on that which I had brought for -her. I then took her by the hand and led her out of my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> lord’s chamber. -In passing through the next room, in which were several people, with all -the concern imaginable, I said, ‘My dear Mrs. Catherine, go in all haste -and send me my waiting-maid; she certainly cannot reflect how late it -is. I am to present my petition to-night; to-morrow it is too late. -Hasten her as much as possible, for I shall be on thorns till she -comes.’... When I had seen her safe out I returned to my lord and -finished dressing him. I had taken care that Mrs. Mills did not go out -crying, as she came in, that my lord might better pass for the lady who -came in crying and afflicted; and the more so that as he had the same -dress that she wore. When I had almost finished dressing my lord, I -perceived it was growing dark, and was afraid that the light of the -candle might betray us, so I resolved to set off. I went out leading him -by the hand, whilst he held his handkerchief to his eyes. I spoke to him -in the most piteous and afflicted tone, bewailing the negligence of my -maid Evans, who had ruined me by her delay. Then I said, ‘My dear Mrs. -Betty ... run quickly and bring her with you. I am almost distracted -with this disappointment.’ The guards opened the door, and I went -downstairs with him, still conjuring him to make all possible<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> despatch. -As soon as he had cleared the door, I made him walk before me, for fear -the sentinel should take notice of his walk. At the bottom of the stairs -I met my dear Evans, into whose hands I confided him.” Lord Nithsdale, -now safely out of the walls and on Tower Hill, was hurried to a -convenient lodging in the City. Lady Nithsdale, having sent “her maid -Betty” off, returned to her lord’s room, and, alone there, pretended to -converse with her husband, imitating his voice so well that no -suspicions were aroused. She continues her narrative thus: “I then -thought proper to make off also. I opened the door and stood half at it, -that those in the outward chamber might hear what I said, but held it so -close that they could not look in. I bade my lord formal farewell for -the night, and added that something more than usual must have happened -to make Evans negligent, on this important occasion, who had always been -so punctual in the smallest trifles; that I saw no other remedy but to -go in person; that if the Tower was then open, when I had finished my -business, I would return that night; but that he might be assured I -would be with him as early in the morning as I could gain admittance to -the Tower, and I flattered myself I should bring more<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span> favourable news. -Then, before I shut the door, I pulled through the string of the latch, -so that it could only be opened on the inside.” On her way out Lady -Nithsdale told one of the servants that candles need not be taken in to -his master “until he sent for them,” and so left the King’s House, -crossed Tower Green in the dusk of the evening, and was soon safely in -London streets. Lord Nithsdale eventually escaped, disguised as a -footman, in the suite of the Venetian Ambassador, from Dover. Lady -Nithsdale bravely returned to Dumfriesshire, and, at great risk, for -“the King was great insensed at the trick she had played,” recovered -valuable papers buried in a garden there, then joined her husband in -Rome. By her splendid intrepidity she had saved her lord from the -scaffold on the very eve of execution, had baffled the King’s -emissaries, and altogether gave King George cause to complain that she -had given him more trouble than “any other woman in the whole of -Europe.”</p> - -<p><i>Beauchamp Tower.</i>—This tower lies in the centre of the western Ballium -Wall, and is entered at the foot of a flight of steps leading down from -the level of the Green. A narrow winding stairway, which is typical of -the means of ingress and egress in all the lesser towers on the walls,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> -brings us to the large prison-chamber of this tower, the only portion -shown to the public. In Tudor days the Beauchamp Tower was set aside -specially as the place of detention of captives of high estate in the -realm. It is the least gloomy of the towers. It must at all times have -had a good supply of light, if we may judge by the delicacy of the -inscriptions and carvings that those imprisoned there have left upon its -walls. On entering the prison-room an inscription bearing the word -“Peveril” will be seen on the wall to the left. This caught the eye of -Sir Walter Scott when visiting the Tower, and suggested the title for -the then unwritten novel, the scenes of which are laid in the time of -Charles II. In that book a description is given, in chapter xl, of the -King’s visit to the fortress. “In the meantime the royal barge paused at -the Tower; and, accompanied by a laughing train of ladies and of -courtiers, the gay monarch made the echoes of the old prison-towers ring -with the unwonted sounds of mirth and revelry.... Charles, who often -formed manly and sensible resolutions, though he was too easily diverted -from them by indolence or pleasure, had some desire to make himself -personally acquainted with the state of the military stores, arms, etc., -of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> which the Tower was then, as now, the magazine.... The King, -accompanied by the Dukes of Buckingham, Ormond, and one or two others, -walked through the well-known hall [in the White Tower] in which is -preserved the most splendid magazine of arms in the world, and which, -though far from exhibiting its present extraordinary state of -perfection, was even then an arsenal worthy of the great nation to which -it belonged.” In the same chapter the Tower legend of the King’s -discovery of Coleby (who had helped the King at Worcester fight) as a -warder in the Tower is told. Sir Walter adds a footnote to the tale: -“The affecting circumstances are, I believe, recorded in one of the -little manuals which are put into the hands of visitors.” In this room -of the Beauchamp Tower, Nigel, Lord Glenvarloch, is imprisoned as -narrated in <i>The Fortunes of Nigel</i>, which pictures earlier days—the -times of James I. Nigel “followed the lieutenant to the ancient -buildings on the western side of the parade, and adjoining to the -chapel, used in those days as a State prison, but in ours [this was -written in 1822] as the mess-room of the officers of the guard upon duty -at the fortress. The double doors were unlocked, the prisoner ascended a -few steps, followed by the lieutenant and a warder of the higher class.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> -They entered a large, but irregular, low-roofed and dark apartment, -exhibiting a very scanty proportion of furniture.... The lieutenant, -having made his reverence with the customary compliment that ‘He trusted -his lordship would not long remain under his guardianship,’ took his -leave.... Nigel proceeded to amuse himself with the melancholy task of -deciphering the names, mottoes, verses and hieroglyphics with which his -predecessors in captivity had covered the walls of their prison-house. -There he saw the names of many forgotten sufferers mingled with others -which will continue in remembrance until English history shall perish. -There were the pious effusions of the devout Catholic, poured forth on -the eve of his sealing his profession at Tyburn, mingled with those of -the firm Protestant about to feed the fires of Smithfield.... It was -like the roll of the prophet, a record of lamentation and mourning, and -yet not unmixed with brief interjections of resignation, and sentences -expressive of the firmest resolution.” There are ninety-one names on the -walls of this room in the Beauchamp Tower, and the earliest date, 1462, -is cut beside the name of Talbot. Other notable inscriptions are those -of the Pole family (No. 33), of which two members died in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_013" id="ill_013"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_015_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_015_sml.jpg" width="500" height="360" alt="Image unavailable: PRINCIPAL ROOM, FOR STATE PRISONERS, IN THE BEAUCHAMP -TOWER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PRINCIPAL ROOM, FOR STATE PRISONERS, IN THE BEAUCHAMP -TOWER</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">captivity here; the Dudley carving (No. 14), consisting of a frame made -up of a garland of roses, geraniums, honeysuckle, and oak leaves. Within -are a bear and lion supporting a ragged staff, which is the Dudley -crest. Beneath is the name of the carver, John Dudley—the eldest of -five Dudley brothers imprisoned in this chamber. This John, Earl of -Warwick, died here, a prisoner. The Bailly inscription (No. 17) dates -from Elizabeth’s reign, and was carved by Charles Bailly, involved in -plots to liberate Mary Queen of Scots after her coming to England. He -has carved these words on the stone: “Wise men ought circumspectly to -see what they do, to examine before they speake, to prove before they -take in hand, to beware whose company they use, and, above all things, -to whom they truste.” The Earl of Arundel, one of the devout Catholics -mentioned by Scott, died, in this room, after ten years’ imprisonment in -the Tower. His inscription is in Latin, and dated June 22, 1587. The -words may be translated, “The more suffering for Christ in this world, -the more will be the glory with Christ in the next. Thou hast crowned -him with honour and glory, O Lord! In memory everlasting he will be -just.” Another carving (No. 26), of April 22, 1559, concludes thus: -“There is an end<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> of all things, and the ende of a thing is better than -the beginin. Be wyse and pacyente in troble, for wysdom defends the as -well as mony. Use well the tyme of prosperite, ande remember the tyme of -misfortewn.” This inscription bears some resemblance to another of -Bailly’s (No. 51), where he has recorded on his prison wall that, “The -most unhapy man in the world is he that is not pacient in adversities; -for men are not killed with the adversities they have, but with the -impacience which they suffer.... Hope to the end and have pacience.” If -any were in need of patience and of hope they were these poor prisoners -in the Beauchamp Tower. Another captive, T. Salmon, in 1622 recorded -that he had been kept “close prisoner here, 8 months, 32 weeks, 224 -days, 5,376 hours.” The husband of Lady Jane Grey carved on these walls -(No. 85) the one word “Jane,” and this in its simplicity is the saddest -of all the writings on the wall. This tower, which was restored by -Salvin in 1854, still retains an original Edward III. window and much -other ancient work; its name is derived from the Thomas Beauchamp, Earl -of Warwick, imprisoned towards the end of the fourteenth century. During -the time of the Wyatt rebellion it appears to have been known as the -Cobham Tower,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> but that name did not adhere to it long. It consists of -three floors, the main prison-room being on the second storey, and -possesses a battlemented roof. In this tower a secret passage has been -discovered, in the wall, where spies could hover and overhear the talk -of prisoners. To the north of it, and opposite the Chapel, stands the -Chaplain’s House, and that portion of Tower Green immediately adjoining -was at one period a burial-ground for “Tower parishioners.”</p> - -<p><i>Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula.</i>—The crypt of the present chapel was -built in the reign of Henry III.; all that stands above it is of the -Tudor period. In 1867 it received its last careful restoration, but -apart from its tragic associations it is not a very inspiring bit of -ecclesiastical architecture. There is a peculiar stiffness about the -building and an oppressive gloom in the place that makes one regard it -rather as a large tomb than as a church for living men and women to -worship in. Strangely enough, one has none of this feeling when visiting -the Chapel of St. John in the White Tower, which is a place that never -fails to lead the thoughts to another world than this. In St. Peter’s -one is haunted by generations of spectres who have passed from life to -death by violent means, and one has also the fear that Macaulay is -lingering in some<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> corner and moralising on the pathos of it all. Under -the pavement of this church, as was discovered at the 1876 restoration, -the victims from the scaffold, of royal blood or otherwise, were very -hastily and carelessly interred, at no great depth. The bones of Queen -Anne Boleyn were identified and now lie in front of the altar with those -of Queen Katherine Howard, and the Dukes of Northumberland and Somerset. -Mr. Doyne Bell, describing the discovery of the remains of Anne Boleyn, -says, “The forehead and lower jaw were small and especially well formed. -The vertebræ were particularly small, especially one joint, which was -that next to the skull, and they bore witness to the Queen’s ‘lyttel -neck.’<span class="lftspc">”</span> The skeletons of the aged Countess of Salisbury and of the Duke -of Monmouth were also found. A list of the notable people buried in this -church will be seen on the west wall near the door, and here, too, are -preserved portions of the leaden coffin lids of the Scots lords who were -the last victims of the block on Tower Hill. Several very interesting -memorials of those famous in Tower annals will be noticed on the east -and south walls near the chancel. The elaborate tomb to the left, within -the altar rails, is erected in memory of Sir Richard Blount and of Sir<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_014" id="ill_014"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_016_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_016_sml.jpg" width="352" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: CHAPLAIN’S HOUSE, AND ENTRANCE TO CHURCH OF ST. PETER AD -VINCULA, TOWER GREEN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CHAPLAIN’S HOUSE, AND ENTRANCE TO CHURCH OF ST. PETER AD -VINCULA, TOWER GREEN</span> -</div> - -<p>Michael, his son, both Lieutenants of the Tower in their time. These -Blounts died in the middle of the sixteenth century. In the body of the -church Sir Thomas More and Bishop Fisher, Protector Somerset and Thomas -Cromwell, Strafford and Sir John Eliot, lie buried. One of the earliest -monuments in the building is that lying between the organ and chancel, -commemorating Sir Richard Cholmondeley and his wife Elizabeth. The -recumbent figures are carved in alabaster. Neither the knight nor his -lady was buried in the church. Sir Richard held the position of -Lieutenant of the Tower in Henry VII.’s reign. Lord de Ros, the last -Deputy-Lieutenant of the Tower, and author of a valuable record of its -history, who died in 1874, has a memorial here. It was owing to his care -that the tombstone covering the grave of Talbot Edwards, so nearly -killed when defending the Crown Jewels at the time of the Colonel Blood -onslaught, was replaced. This slab had been doing duty as a paving-stone -on Tower Green. The Communion Plate of St. Peter’s dates from the time -of the first Charles, and the vessels bear the royal monogram, C.R., -with crown above. They have been used by many a condemned captive just -before the hour appointed for death.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> -<small>A WALK ROUND THE TOWER</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">These manacles upon my arm<br /></span> -<span class="i2">I, as my mistress’ favours, wear;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And for to keep my ancles warm,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">I have some iron shackles there;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">These walls are but my garrison; this cell,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Which men call jail, doth prove my citadel.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><i>Old Ballad.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> leaving the Tower gateway we turn into the gardens on the right and -walk along the pathway that lies beneath Tower Hill and above the moat. -An excellent view is to be obtained from these gardens of the outer -defences of the Tower. The western front exhibits a striking mass of -buildings of various age and colour. At first glance we might imagine we -were looking upon a bit of sixteenth-century Nuremberg. We would not be -at all surprised to see Hans Sachs, Veit Pogner, or Sixtus Beckmesser -look out from the windows above the Ballium Wall. Below lie<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span> the -Casemates or outer defences, running, on this western side, from the -Byward Tower to Legge’s Mount, named, it is conjectured, after George -Legge, Earl of Dartmouth, who had charge of the battery in the -seventeenth century. The Outward Wall was put up by Henry III.</p> - -<p><i>The Devereux Tower.</i>—This tower stands at the north-west angle of the -Ballium Wall, above Legge’s Mount battery. Robert Devereux, Earl of -Essex, and friend of Shakespeare, was a prisoner here in Elizabeth’s -reign, hence the name; but in earlier days it was known as Robyn the -Devyll’s, or Develin Tower. It is so termed in the 1597 plan reproduced -at the end of this book. The lower and older portion of the tower dates -back to the time of Richard I.; the upper portions are modern -restorations of what had existed previously, but the arrow-slits, which -formerly pierced the walls and admitted so little light to the interior -of one of the gloomiest towers in the fortress, are now widened to -windows. The walls are eleven feet thick, and a small staircase leads -from the tower to cells lying within the thickness of the Ballium Wall. -The lower floor contains an old kitchen with finely vaulted ceiling; -beneath this there is a forbidding dungeon, and underground<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span> passages at -one time led thence to the vaults of St. Peter’s Church. But the secret -subways are now sealed up and their existence probably forgotten.</p> - -<p><i>Flint, Bowyer, and Brick Towers.</i>—These towers lie along the northern -section of the Inner Wall and are protected by the Outer Wall, and also -by the comparatively modern North Bastion which projects into the ditch -and is pierced for successive tiers, containing five guns each. The -Flint Tower is next in order after the Devereux, and lies some ninety -feet away. An older tower on this site, known as Little Hell because of -its evil reputation as a prison, had fallen partly to ruin in 1796 and -was demolished; the present tower was set up in its place, and, though -used as a prison for a few years after the rebuilding, has practically -no history as it now stands. The Bowyer Tower, next in order eastwards, -was the place of confinement of the luckless Duke of Clarence, who -suffered a mysterious death in 1478. The lower portions of the structure -date back to Edward III.; all above is of more recent date. This tower -had always an evil reputation. “One of the most terrible cells of the -fortress,” one authority states, “is to be found in the Bowyer Tower, -where there is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_015" id="ill_015"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_017_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_017_sml.jpg" width="352" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: PART OF A BASTION OF OLD LONDON WALL, WITH CLOCK TOWER OF -THE WHITE TOWER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">PART OF A BASTION OF OLD LONDON WALL, WITH CLOCK TOWER OF -THE WHITE TOWER</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">ghastly hole with a trap-door, opening upon a flight of steps.” From -these steps a secret passage led through a small cell to a farther cell -in the body of the Ballium Wall. It is possible that Scott had this -tower in mind when describing the dungeon and secret passages and doors -in the thirteenth chapter of the <i>Legend of Montrose</i>. The account of -the one resembles very closely what we know of the other. The bowmaker -lived and followed his trade within this tower, and it is named after -that master craftsman, whose workshop was a busy place in the days -before the bullet had ousted the arrow. The Brick Tower is chiefly of -interest as having been the place to which Raleigh was moved during his -first and third imprisonments. When it was found necessary to keep him -in closer captivity than had been imposed on him in the Garden House and -Bloody Tower, he was brought to the Brick Tower, and not to the cell in -St. John’s crypt, as tradition has led many to believe. Lord Grey de -Wilton died here, during his captivity, in 1617; here, also, Sir William -Coventry was confined for a time in Charles II.’s time. Pepys, on his -visit to Sir William, found “abundance of company with him,” and sixty -coaches stood<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> outside Tower gates “that had brought them thither.”</p> - -<p><i>The Martin Tower.</i>—This is the most famous of the lesser towers, and -is also known as the old Jewel House. It, too, in part is ancient, but -the building set up by Henry III. was tampered with by Wren, and has, in -consequence, a somewhat patchy appearance to-day. The tower stands at -the north-east corner of the Inner Wall, and beneath it lies Brass Mount -battery. It is best seen from the point where we leave the public -gardens and go on to the level of the Tower Bridge Approach. From this -recently constructed roadway a good general view of the Tower buildings -on the eastern side is obtained. But we will pause here on our walk to -consider two memorable events in the history of the Martin Tower.</p> - -<p>In May, 1671, that audacious rascal, Colonel Blood, “whose spirit toiled -in framing the most daring enterprises,” after having failed to “seize -his ancient enemy, the Duke of Ormond, in the streets of London,” -bethought him of a plan to seize and carry away the Crown Jewels of -England, then kept in the Martin Tower. It was soon after the -appointment of Sir Gilbert Talbot as Master, or Keeper, of the Jewels -that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> regalia had been opened to public inspection, and an old -servant of Sir Gilbert’s, Talbot Edwards, was in immediate charge of the -room in which the gems lay. Blood had been making one or two visits, in -various disguises, to the Jewel-room during the last weeks of April of -the year mentioned (the date is sometimes given as 1673, but Evelyn -mentions the affair, in his <i>Diary</i>, under May 10, 1671), in order to -make sure of his ground and to devise plans of safe retreat. Blood, in -guise of a clergyman, and addressed as Parson Blood, had been invited to -dine with Edwards and his wife and daughter. “You have,” said the -cassocked Colonel, “a pretty young gentlewoman for your daughter, and I -have a young nephew, who has two or three hundred a year in land, and is -at my disposal. If your daughter be free, and you approve it, I’ll bring -him here to see her, and we will endeavour to make it a match.” The day -that he had chosen to introduce his nephew was the day on which he was -to make his own attempt to steal more than a maiden’s heart. At the time -appointed, Parson Blood returned “with three more, all armed with -rapier-canes and every one a dagger and a brace of pocket-pistols.” -Blood and two of his associates<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> “went in to see the crown,” and the -pretended “nephew” remained at the door as sentinel. Miss Edwards, with -maidenly modesty, forbore to come down and meet her wooer, yet curiosity -impelled her to send a waiting-maid to inspect the company and report as -to the appearance of her lover. The maid, having seen whom she took to -be the intended bridegroom standing at the door of the Jewel-room, -returned to her mistress and analysed the impression of the young man -which she had formed, with womanly intuition, by a single glance. -Meanwhile, it was not love but war below. Old Talbot Edwards had been -gagged and nearly strangled by Blood and his men, but not before he had -made as much noise as possible in order to raise an alarm. The young -women upstairs were much too interested in Cupid’s affairs to hear the -cries from the Jewel chamber. Edwards received several blows on the head -with a mallet in order that his shouts might be silenced. He fell to the -ground and was left there as dead, while the ruffians were busily -despoiling the jewel case of its more precious contents. Blood, as chief -conspirator, secured the crown and hid it under his cloak; his trusty -Parrot secreted the orb; and the third villain proceeded to file the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> -sceptre in order to get it into a small bag. At that moment a dramatic -event upset their calculations. One can almost hear the chord in the -orchestra and imagine that a transpontine melodrama was being witnessed, -when told that there stepped upon the scene, at this juncture, a son of -Talbot Edwards who had just returned from Flanders. Young Edwards, on -entering his own house, was surprised by the sentinel at the door asking -him what his business might be. He ran upstairs, in some amazement, to -see his father, mother, and sister, and ask the meaning of this demand. -Blood and his precious suite of booty-snatchers received the alarm from -the doorkeeper, and the interesting party made off as quickly as they -could with cloaks, bags, pockets, and hands full of Crown jewellery, the -property of His Majesty King Charles and the English nation. Old Edwards -had now recovered his powers of speech, and, working the gag out of his -mouth, rose up to shout “Treason! Murder!” and so forth. This was heard -by those above who had been welcoming young Edwards’ unexpected return. -All were now active, and young Edwards, assisted by some warders, gave -chase to the rapidly retreating regalia. The Blood contingent had<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> -already reached the Byward Tower and were making for the outer gateway -when some of the King’s jewels were dropped in order to lighten the -burdens of those who ran. But the Colonel still hugged the crown. They -were soon out on Tower Wharf and making for St. Catherine’s Gate (where -the northern end of Tower Bridge now stands). Here horses awaited them, -and here they were aware that shouts of “Stop the rogues!” were -proceeding from an excited body of men rushing towards them from the -western end of the Wharf. The gallant Colonel did not resign the crown -without a struggle, during which several of the jewels, including the -Great Pearl and a large diamond, with which it was set, rolled out upon -the ground and were for a time lost, but subsequently recovered. Parrot -was found with portions of royal sceptre in various linings and pockets, -and a valuable ruby had been successfully conjured away. When Blood and -his three tragic comedians had been made prisoners, young Edwards -hastened back into the Tower and acquainted Sir Gilbert Talbot with the -alarming news. Sir Gilbert stamped and swore a round oath or two and -hurried to the King to give him an account of the escapade. Charles -commanded<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span> the prisoners to be brought before him at Whitehall, and the -Merry Monarch endowed Blood with a pension of £500 a year. The second -Charles evidently admired a man of daring.</p> - -<p>The Seven Bishops were confined—huddled together would be the more -literal term—in the Martin Tower, during the troublous days of James -II., for refusing to subscribe to the Declaration of Indulgence. “A -warrant was issued for their committal to the Tower,” we are told by Dr. -Luckock in his <i>Bishops in the Tower</i>, and “the spectacle of the 8th of -June [1688] has had no parallel in the annals of history. It has often -been painted, and in vivid colours, but no adequate description can ever -be given of a scene that was unique.” As the barge containing the -Bishops was pushed off from Whitehall Steps, “men and women rushed into -the water and the people ran along the banks cheering with the wildest -enthusiasm, and crying, ‘God bless the Bishops!’ When they reached the -Traitor’s Gate and passed into the Tower, the soldiers on guard, -officers as well as men, fell on their knees and begged for a blessing. -It was evening when they arrived, and they asked for permission to -attend the service in the chapel [of St. Peter]; and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> Lesson for the -day, by a happy coincidence, was one well calculated to inspire them -with courage: ‘In all things approving ourselves as the ministers of -God, in much patience, in afflictions, in necessities, in distresses, in -strifes, in imprisonments.’ ... The enthusiasm was continued long after -the ponderous gates of the Tower had closed upon them. The soldiers of -the garrison drank to the health of the Bishops at their mess, and -nothing could stop them from such a manifestation of their sympathy.” -The Bishops were in the Martin Tower until June 15, when they returned -by water from the Wharf and were taken to the Court of King’s Bench. -They were tried on June 29. When Sir Robert Langley, foreman of the -jury, declared that the prisoners were found “not guilty” the scene -again became one of the wildest joy and excitement. “The released -Bishops, hearing the bells of a neighbouring church, escaped from the -crowd to join in the service, and, by a second coincidence, more -striking even than the first, the Lesson that they heard was the story -of St. Peter’s miraculous deliverance from prison.”</p> - -<p><i>The Constable, Broad Arrow, and Salt Towers.</i>—These <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span>small towers -stand on the line of the eastern wall of the Inner Ward and face the -Tower Bridge roadway. In the first named the Constable of the Tower -lived in Henry VIII.’s reign; in the time of Charles I. it was used as a -prison. Its rooms and dungeons resemble those of the Beauchamp Tower, -but are on a smaller scale. The Broad Arrow Tower never lacked prisoners -during the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth, and the room on the first floor -has some inscriptions left by captives; these writings on the stone have -been so repeatedly covered with whitewash that they are now somewhat -difficult to decipher. In 1830 a list of the inscriptions was made, and -we find in it the following names and dates: “John Daniell, 1556,” a -prisoner concerned in a plot to rob the Exchequer in Mary’s reign, and -hanged on Tower Hill; “Thomas Forde, 1582,” a priest executed “for -refusing to assent to the supremacy of Queen Elizabeth in the Church”; -“John Stoughton, 1586,” and “J. Gage, 1591,” both priests. At the top of -this tower, near the doorway giving access to the Inner Wall, is a -narrow cell, with only a small aperture to admit light, which rivals -Little Ease in sparsity of accommodation. Behind the Constable and Broad -Arrow Towers are the Officers’ Quarters of the garrison, occupying -ground<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> on which stood, until the reign of James II., an old building -known as the King’s Private Wardrobe, connected with the now vanished -Royal Palace. South-west of the Broad Arrow Tower lay the Queen’s -Garden.</p> - -<p><i>The Salt, Cradle, and Lanthorn Towers.</i>—The Salt Tower, standing at -the south-east corner of the Ballium wall, is one of the oldest portions -of all the buildings, and dates back to the time of William Rufus. It -possesses a spacious dungeon, with vaulted ceiling, a finely carved -chimney-piece in one of the upper rooms, and in a prison chamber the -inscription of “Hew: Draper, 1561”—the memento of a sixteenth-century -magician—is cut on the wall. The Salt and Cradle Towers were the scene -of an escape of two prisoners in Elizabeth’s reign—Father Gerard and -John Arden.</p> - -<p>Gerard had been put in the Salt Tower for the part he is said to have -taken in an attempt on the Queen’s life. When examined before a Council -which sat in the room in the King’s House where Guy Fawkes was -afterwards convicted, he refused to give any information that might -involve brother priests. For this he was ordered to be tortured in the -dungeon under the White Tower. In the account which he himself wrote of -the proceedings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_016" id="ill_016"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_018_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_018_sml.jpg" width="306" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: EAST END OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, FROM -BROAD ARROW TOWER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">EAST END OF ST. JOHN’S CHAPEL IN THE WHITE TOWER, FROM -BROAD ARROW TOWER</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">we are told that he and his guards “went in solemn procession, the -attendants preceding us with lighted candles because the place was -underground and very dark, especially about the entrance. It was a place -of immense extent, and in it were ranged divers sorts of racks, and -other instruments of torture. Some of these they displayed before me and -told me I should have to taste them.” Gerard was led to “a great upright -beam, or pillar of wood” in the centre of the torture chamber, and there -hung up by his hands, which were placed in iron shackles attached to an -iron rod fixed in the pillar. The stool on which he had stood while this -was being done was taken away from under his feet and the whole weight -of his body was supported by his wrists, clasped in the gauntlets. As he -was a tall, stout man his sufferings must have been terrible indeed. -While he hung thus he was again questioned as to his associates in the -“plot,” but he refused to betray any one. He has left on record his -sensations as he hung against the pillar of torture. “I felt,” he says, -“that all the blood in my body had run into my arms and begun to burst -out at my finger-ends. This was a mistake, but the arms swelled until -the gauntlets were buried in the flesh. After being thus<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> suspended for -an hour I fainted; when I came to myself I found the executioners -supporting me in their arms.” They had replaced the stool under his -feet, and poured vinegar down his throat; but as soon as he recovered -consciousness the stool was withdrawn and Gerard allowed to remain -hanging in agony for five hours longer, during which he fainted eight or -nine times. For three days he was put to this torture on the pillar, and -Sir William Waad, then Lieutenant of the Tower, exasperated at the -victim’s fortitude, exclaimed at last, “Hang there till you rot!” and he -was left hanging till his arms were paralysed. Each evening the victim, -“half dead with pain, and scarce able to crawl,” was taken back to his -cell in the Salt Tower. A few days later Gerard was again brought before -the Council, and again refused to compromise others. Waad thereupon -delivered him to the charge of the chief of the torturers—a dread -official indeed—with the injunction, “You are to rack him twice a day -until such time as he chooses to confess.” Once more he was led down -into the dungeon beneath the White Tower and strapped up to the pillar -as before, his swollen arms and wrists being forced into the iron bands -which could now scarce go round them. Still he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span> refused to give the name -of a single friend, and Waad saw the futility of torturing him to death. -Gerard was locked up in the Salt Tower again and lay on the floor of his -chamber with maimed arms, wrists, and hands, terrible to look upon. Yet -he remained firm, and the pains of the body could not, it seemed, affect -his spirit. It happened that in the Cradle Tower, standing to the -south-west of the Salt Tower, on the outer wall and close by the Wharf, -another Roman Catholic prisoner, John Arden, was kept in confinement. -Gerard, when sufficiently recovered to be able to walk about again, -obtained leave of his jailor to visit Arden. Together they planned -escape. They wrote to friends in the City with orange juice, which -writing was invisible unless subjected to a certain treatment whereby it -became legible. Gerard, by the help of these friends, secured a long -piece of thick string with a leaden weight attached, and with this came -a written promise that upon a certain night a boat would lie beside the -Wharf just under the Cradle Tower. On the evening of the day appointed -Gerard stayed longer than usual with Arden, but dreading lest at any -moment he should be sent for and taken back to the Salt Tower. But night -came and he was still in the Cradle Tower, looking out<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span> anxiously across -the moat towards the riverside. At last the boat approached, and was -moored opposite the tower, from which Arden threw his line, and both -prisoners saw, with joy, that the leaden weight had cleared the moat and -fallen on the Wharf. It was picked up by the boatmen, and a strong rope -was fastened to the cord. This rope Arden hauled up into his cell and -made it fast. Gerard then swarmed down the tightened rope to the Wharf, -suffering acute pain owing to the condition of his arms and wrists. It -was five months after his torture before the sense of touch was restored -to his hands. Arden followed, and both got away safely to the steps -beside London Bridge, where they were met by the friends who had cheered -them in their captivity, and were taken to a place of safety.</p> - -<p>The Cradle Tower is seen best from the Wharf. This broad riverside -embankment constructed by Henry III. makes a delightful promenade. It is -reached from the level of the Tower Bridge approach by descending a -flight of steps on the eastern side of the roadway and passing under the -bridge by the archway at the guard-room. When this arch is passed under, -on the immediate right, beyond the trees, is seen the Galleyman or -Develin<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_017" id="ill_017"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_019_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_019_sml.jpg" width="500" height="378" alt="Image unavailable: THE TOWER FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE, LOOKING WEST" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE TOWER FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE, LOOKING WEST</span> -</div> - -<p>Tower, and the Well Tower to the left of it The Galleyman, or Galligman -Tower—to give it the name under which it appears in a plan of 1597—was -in former times a powder store and gave access to the “Iron Gate,” now -demolished. It will be noticed that five towers stand closely together -at this corner of the defences. The south-eastern portion of the -fortress had always been considered that most exposed to attack; the -protecting ditch, too, is narrower at this point than elsewhere, hence -the need for additional fortification. Beside the Cradle Tower a modern -drawbridge has been constructed giving access for stores. Within the -outer and inner walls here, lay the Privy Garden, one of the most -peaceful and secluded nooks in the fortress—a place of old-world -flowers and southern sunshine. The Cradle Tower is so named from the -existence there in former times of a “cradle,” or movable bed by means -of which boats could be hoisted from the moat, and, within the grated -doorway in the tower wall, raised on to a dry platform there. The -principal entrance to the Outer Ward lay, in early days, through this -gateway in the Cradle Tower, and prisoners were landed here as well as -through Traitor’s Gate. In 1641 it was described as “Cradle Tower—a -prison<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> lodging.” The round Lanthorn Tower rising above and dwarfing the -Cradle Tower was in Tudor days known as the New Tower, and commanded the -King’s Bedchamber, and the Queen’s Gallery. Towards the end of the -eighteenth century this tower was burnt down, and the walls, from the -lower portions and vaults, were rebuilt. In Henry III.’s reign this -tower was a place of great importance; its chambers were hung with -ornate tapestry, and the inner walls decorated with frescoes. This -tower, being attached to the royal apartments, was never used as a -prison, and so may be said to be happy in having no history of suffering -attached to it. It has been so admirably restored, by Salvin, and again -by Taylor in 1882, that it has lost little of its original appearance.</p> - -<p>From the Wharf the massive St. Thomas’s Tower can be examined more -closely and the outer side of the Traitor’s Gate is open to view. The -guns on the Wharf, near the Byward Tower, are those that are used for -the firing of salutes on days of royal anniversary.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /><br /> -<small>TOWER HILL</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The garlands wither on your brow;<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Then boast no more your mighty deeds;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Upon Death’s purple altar now<br /></span> -<span class="i2">See where the victor-victim bleeds:<br /></span> -<span class="i4">Your heads must come<br /></span> -<span class="i4">To the cold tomb;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Only the actions of the just<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Smell sweet, and blossom in their dust.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><span class="smcap">J. Shirley.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">The</span> actual spot on which the scaffold was erected on the hill is marked, -in the garden by which it is now surrounded, by a square of stone paving -set in the turf just within the gate on the south-western side of the -enclosure. Happy children skip and play on this blood-stained bit of -ground; the flowers leap up in April and the birds make melody in May; -Nature has healed the sore and done lavishly to make us forget, by her -gifts, that here was the scene of angry mobs crying for the slaughter of -some of the nation’s noblest men. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> block was set up on a high wooden -platform so that the ceremony of decapitation was performed well above -the heads of the dense crowd that gathered on the hill when the more -notable Tower prisoners were brought here to die. It is stated that -during the making of the tunnel that goes through Tower Hill to-day the -wooden foundations of the scaffold were discovered, and also, near by, -the remains of two victims whose bodies had been interred there. Neither -the imbedded timber nor the human bones were disturbed, and both still -lie beneath the turf to fix accurately the spot of execution. Tower Hill -seems to have possessed a gallows also, for we find frequent record of -criminals being “hanged in chains” there, either for State or other -offences. Under an oak tree that grew on the slope towards the Tower -gateway, the public stocks stood, and in the vestry minutes of -Allhallows Barking, under the date December 16, 1657, we find it -recorded that an order was given “for the erection of stocks and -whipping-post required by the statute at the churchyard corner in Tower -Street against Mr. Lowe’s, the draper’s, with a convenient shed over -them.” How Mr. Lowe, the draper, took the proposition we are not -informed, but if he expressed his feelings in forcible language he<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span> -might, perchance, have met the fate of his neighbour, Mr. Holland, who, -three years previously, on April 26, 1654, “was fined 3s. 4d. by -Alderman Tichbourne for vain oaths sworn” within the parish of -Allhallows. Tower Hill would seem, in those days, to have had a peculiar -attraction for “beggars and common vagrants.” It was a popular resort -for those who lived to beg and those who begged to live—two very -different classes of people, but both equally inconvenient. In the -middle seventeenth century the condition of affairs became serious and -gave alarm both to officials and to the annoyed inhabitants of the -district. In May, 1647, the Vestry of Allhallows “takes into -consideration the destitute condition of the poor, and it is ordered -that a collection for the poor shall be made every second Sabbath in the -month; the churchwardens shall stand at the door ... to receive the -freewill offerings of the parishioners,” and in 1654 the residents -appeal to the Lord Mayor, for “grate, grate, very grate are your -petitioners’ wants, and may it please your Honour to afford them some -relief ... without which they are unable to maintain so great a charge.” -Hither came “a poore starving Frenchman,” who was solaced with 2s.; a -like sum was granted to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> a “poore Spaniard turned Protestant” and a -“poore Dutch minister.” The dwellers on the side of Tower Hill were -themselves at times reprimanded by the authorities, for we find that in -May, 1653, “Goodman Dawson and his wife” are summoned to appear, -“because they would not let their daughter, aged seventeen, go out to -service: their pension to be stopped as long as they encourage such -indolence,” which seems a just enough proceeding.</p> - -<p>This district suffered severely during the three years after the Great -Fire. Tower Hill lay on the eastern edge of the city of desolation. The -poor proprietor of the Blue Bell tavern, which stood in picturesque -angularities overlooking the hill before the catastrophe which reduced -it, to quote its owner’s words, “to nothing but a ruinous heap of -rubbish,” sought exemption, in 1669, from arrears of lawful dues. These -old inns bordering Tower Hill were the scene of frequent “Parish -dinners,” at which the consumption of food was so considerable as to -lead one to believe that Tower Hill was noted in those days, as it is -to-day, for its fresh air, which sharpens the edge of appetite. These -feeds were partaken of by just as many “men of import in the parish” as -could get into a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_018" id="ill_018"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_020_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_020_sml.jpg" width="500" height="366" alt="Image unavailable: THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL, SHOWING SITE OF THE SCAFFOLD, -IN THE GARDEN" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL, SHOWING SITE OF THE SCAFFOLD, -IN THE GARDEN</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">room, “mine host’s best parlour.” On April 26, 1629, they consumed “5 -stone of beefe, 2 legges of mutton, 2 quarters of lamb, 3 capons,” and -so on. A few weeks afterwards they are at it again and “dine upon 5 -ribbs of beef, a side of lamb, 2 legges of mutton, 2 capons; and did -drink wine and beer to the value of £l:7s.” This reminds one of -Falstaff’s feeds in Eastcheap and his capacity for imbibing Canary sack. -At one meal, in <i>Henry IV.</i>, Shakespeare makes the fat knight, if we go -by the bill presented afterwards, drink sixteen pints of wine! In 1632 -sack was sold in the City at 9d. per quart, claret at 5d., and Malmsey -and muscadine at 8d.</p> - -<p>In Queen Anne’s reign Tower Hill is described as “an open and spacious -place, set with trees, extending round the west and north parts of the -Tower, where there are many good new buildings, mostly inhabited by -gentry and merchants.” In the contemporary drawings it is shown as an -open space, but singularly devoid of trees. The artists may have been so -intent upon crowding their pictures with tightly packed citizens gazing -upon the decapitation of some unfortunate nobleman that they forgot to -put in the trees. Certainly several of the fine trees that now adorn -Trinity<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span> Square are of some age, and represent the survivors of that -fragment of the ancient forest which crept up to the eastern side of the -hill, and which we see so plainly marked in many of the old maps.</p> - -<p>In a house on the western side of Tower Hill Lady Raleigh dwelt with her -son when her husband was denied her society. From her window she could -look out day by day upon the Brick Tower to which Raleigh had been -removed, and tradition asserts that she was able to communicate with him -and send him gifts in spite of Waad’s stringent orders. The house in -which William Penn was born, on October 14, 1644, stood on the east side -of the hill; its site is covered by the new roadway leading to the -Minories. Penn was sent to school at Chigwell, in Essex, and it was -during those days of boyhood that he had been impressed by the preaching -of a Quaker preacher which led him to forsake the Church of his baptism -(he was baptized, as we shall see in the following chapter, in -Allhallows Barking), and join the Society of Friends. Thomas Otway, the -poet, abused by Rochester in his <i>Session of the Poets</i>, and praised by -Dryden, died, it is believed of starvation, in the Bull Inn on Tower -Hill, when only thirty-four<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> years old. That great Elizabethan, Edmund -Spenser, was born near Tower Hill in 1552, and passed his boyhood there, -before going, when sixteen, to Pembroke College, Cambridge. In Little -Tower Street, in a timber-fronted, many-gabled house, now, alas, swept -away, James Thomson wrote his poem <i>Summer</i>, published in 1727. So much -for literary associations.</p> - -<p>Peter the Great, who raised Russia “out of the slough of ignorance and -obscurity,” in order to superintend the building of a navy took upon -himself the task of learning shipbuilding, first as a common labourer, -afterwards as a master craftsman. He came to London for four months and -worked in the dockyards by day and drank heavily in a public-house in -Allhallows Barking parish at night. He was accustomed “to resort to an -inn in Great Tower Street and smoke and drink ale and brandy, almost -enough to float the vessel he had been helping to construct.” Barrow, -his biographer, states that “the landlord had the Czar of Muscovy’s head -painted and put up for his sign, which continued until the year 1808, -when a person of the name of Waxel took a fancy to the old sign and -offered the then occupier of the house to paint him a new one for it. A -copy was accordingly made from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> original, which maintains its -station to the present day as the sign of the Czar’s Head.” The house -has since been rebuilt and the sign removed, but the name remains. While -the Earl of Rochester was in disgrace at Court in Charles II.’s time he -is said to have “robed and bearded himself as an Italian quack or -mountebank physician, and, under the name of Bendo, set up at a -goldsmith’s house, next door to the Black Swan in Tower Street,” where -he advertised that he “was to be seen from three of the clock in the -afternoon till eight at night.” The second Duke of Buckingham came, once -or twice in disguise, in his days of political intrigue, to a house -facing Tower Hill, to consult an old astrologer who professed to draw -horoscopes. In Seething Lane, then known as Sidon Lane, which runs from -Allhallows Barking to the Church of St. Olave’s, Hart Street, Sir -Francis Walsingham, Queen Elizabeth’s principal secretary, dwelt “in a -fair and large house.” This foe of the Jesuits died here on April 5, -1590, “and was buried next night, at ten of the clock, in Paul’s -Church.”</p> - -<p>St. Olave’s Church is a building with many interesting associations, and -a well-written little pamphlet has recently been issued which visitors -will do well to read. There is only space here to mention the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> Pepys -monument, in the South Aisle, where the diarist was buried in June, -1703, the service being taken by his friend Dr. Hickes, Vicar of -Allhallows Barking. The registers of the parish show that from July 4 to -December 5, 1665, there were buried 326 people who had died of the -plague. A quaint skull and crossbones carving can still be seen over the -gateway within which the burial pit lay. Pepys, going to church -reluctantly early in the following year, is relieved to find snow -covering the plague spot. St. Olave’s has renewed its old-time activity -under the care of its present rector, the Rev. A. B. Boyd Carpenter.</p> - -<p>There is much of interest, also, in the neighbouring church of St. -Dunstan-in-the-East, lying between Tower Street and Lower Thames Street. -Its graceful spire is a familiar landmark, and, with its flying -buttresses set in bold relief when seen from Tower Hill against a sunset -sky, makes a noble crown to the church hidden from sight. St. Dunstan’s -list of rectors dates back to the early fourteenth century. In 1810 the -church became ruinous, and the walls of the nave, owing to insecurity of -foundation, showed signs of collapsing altogether. The present building -was opened in 1821 after restoration and reconstruction. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> registers -of St. Dunstan’s escaped the Fire, and date back to 1558. A valuable -model of the church as rebuilt by Wren, and almost contemporaneous with -the rebuilding, may be seen in the vestry.</p> - -<p>The chief Mint of England was, from the Conquest down to 1811, situated -within Tower walls. It was removed in the year just mentioned to the -present buildings on the eastern side of Little Tower Hill, over which -visitors are shown if application be made beforehand to the -Deputy-Master. The art of “making money” is here shown from the solid -bar of gold to the new sovereign, washed and tested, sent out on its -adventurous career in a world which will welcome its face in whatever -company it appears. The Mint also possesses an excellently arranged -museum of coins and medals, in which are many invaluable treasures.</p> - -<p>Trinity House, headquarters of the Trinity Brethren, stands on Tower -Hill, facing the Tower. A graceful and well-proportioned building, it -supplants the older quarters in Water Lane, Great Tower Street. The -corporation of Trinity House was established in 1529 as “The Masters, -Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, or Fraternity,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> or Brotherhood of -the Most Glorious and Undividable Trinity,” and the first headquarters -was situated near the river, at Deptford. The guild was founded by Sir -Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., and commander of -the great ship, “a huge gilt four-master, the <i>Harry Grace de Dieu</i>,” in -which the King sailed to Calais on his way to the Field of the Cloth of -Gold. In 1854 “the exclusive right of lighting and buoying the coast” -was given to the Board of Trinity House. Within Trinity House to-day may -be seen models of practically all the important lighthouses and -lightships on the English coast. The regulations of Trinity House in -former times are described by Strype, and among them we find rules to -the effect that “Bumboats with fruit, wine, and strong waters were not -permitted by them to board vessels. Every mariner who swore, cursed, or -blasphemed on board ship was to pay one shilling to the ship’s poor-box. -Every mariner found drunk was fined one shilling, and no mariner could -absent himself from prayers unless sick, without forfeiting sixpence.” -The present House on Tower Hill was built in 1793-95 by Samuel Wyatt. On -the front, Ionic in character, are sculptured the arms of the -corporation, medallions<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> of George III. and Queen Charlotte, genii with -nautical instruments, and representations of four of the principal -lighthouses on the coast. The interior is beautified by several valuable -pictures, one of them a large Gainsborough, and a suite of most handsome -furniture. Here, too, is preserved a flag taken from the Spanish Armada -by Drake, and many curious old maps and charts. The present Master of -Trinity House is H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, who visits Tower Hill every -Trinity Monday, and, with the Elder Brethren, walks through Trinity -Square and Catherine Court to service at the parish church.</p> - -<p>An old print hanging in one of the rooms of Trinity House depicts, with -some realism, the last execution on Tower Hill, in 1747, when Lord Lovat -suffered. In August of the previous year the Earl of Kilmarnock and Lord -Balmerino had been brought to the block after the Culloden tragedy. A -journal of the time gives us a most detailed account of the proceedings, -from which some extracts may be taken in order to form some idea of -procedures that were soon to end for ever. “About 8 o’clock the Sheriffs -of London ... and the executioner met at the Mitre Tavern in Fenchurch -Street, where they<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> breakfasted, and went from thence to the house, on -Tower Hill near Catherine’s Court [now Catherine House], hired by them -for the reception of the lords before they should be conducted to the -scaffold, which was erected about thirty yards from the said house. At -ten o’clock the block was fixed on the stage and covered with black -cloth, with several sacks of sawdust up to strew on it; soon after the -coffins were brought, also covered with black cloth.” The leaden plates -from the lids of these coffins are those now preserved on the west wall -of St. Peter’s on Tower Green. “At a quarter after ten,” the account -proceeds, “the Sheriffs went in procession to the outward gate of the -Tower, and after knocking at it some time, a warder within asked, ‘Who’s -there?’ The officer without replied, ‘The Sheriffs of London and -Middlesex.’ The warder then asked, ‘What do they want?’ The officer -answered, ‘The bodies of William, Earl of Kilmarnock, and Arthur, Lord -Balmerino,’ upon which the warder within said, ‘I will go and inform the -Lieutenant of the Tower,’ and in about ten minutes the Lieutenant with -the Earl of Kilmarnock, and Major White with Lord Balmerino, guarded by -several of the warders, came to the gate; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span> prisoners were then -delivered to the Sheriffs, who gave proper receipt for their bodies to -the Lieutenant, who as usual said, ‘God bless King George!’ to which the -Earl of Kilmarnock assented by a bow, and the Lord Balmerino said, ‘God -bless King James!’ Lord Kilmarnock had met Lord Balmerino at the foot of -the stairs in the Tower and said to him, ‘My lord, I am heartily sorry -to have your company in this expedition.’<span class="lftspc">”</span> The prisoners were led to the -house near the block in Trinity Square, and they spent what time was -left to them in devotions. Kilmarnock was brought out to the scaffold -first. “The executioner, who before had something administered to keep -him from fainting, was so affected by his lordship’s distress, and the -awfulness of the scene that, on asking his [Lord Kilmarnock’s] -forgiveness, he burst into tears. My Lord bade him take courage, giving -him at the same time a purse with five guineas, and telling him he would -drop his handkerchief as a signal for the stroke.... In the meantime, -when all things were ready for the execution, and the black bays which -hung over the rails of the scaffold having, by the direction of the -Colonel of the Guard, or the Sheriffs, been turned up that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_019" id="ill_019"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_021_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_021_sml.jpg" width="348" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: THE BLOCK, AXE, AND EXECUTIONER’S MASK" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE BLOCK, AXE, AND EXECUTIONER’S MASK</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">the people might see all the circumstances of the execution, in about -two minutes after he kneeled down his lordship dropped his handkerchief. -The executioner at once severed the head from the body, except only a -small portion of the skin which was immediately divided by a gentle -stroke. The head was received in a piece of red baize and, with the -body, immediately put into the coffin.” Lord Balmerino followed shortly -afterwards, wearing the uniform in which he had fought at Culloden. His -end was not so swift as Lord Kilmarnock’s had been; twice the -executioner bungled his stroke, and not until the third blow was the -head severed.</p> - -<p>Lord Lovat, whom Hogarth had seen, and painted, in the White Hart Inn at -St. Albans as the prisoner was being brought to London, was led to the -block on Tower Hill on Thursday, April 9, 1747, and his was the last -blood that was shed there. Just before his execution, a scaffolding, -which had been erected at the eastern end of Barking Alley, fell and -brought to the ground a thousand spectators who had secured places upon -it to view the execution. Twelve were killed outright and scores of -others injured. “Lovat,” as the account puts it, “in spite of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> awful -situation, seemed to enjoy the downfall of so many Whigs.” Lord Lovat’s -head was, at one blow, severed from his body, and Tower Hill’s record of -bloodshed was at an end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /><br /> -<small>ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER</small></h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Calm Soul of all things! make it mine<br /></span> -<span class="i0">To feel, amid the city’s jar,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">That there abides a peace of thine<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Man did not make, and cannot mar.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><span class="smcap">Matthew Arnold.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="smcap">On</span> the south-west side of Tower Hill there stands the oldest parish -church in London. But beyond the earliest date that we find any portion -of the present building mentioned, it is more than probable that a still -more ancient church occupied this piece of ground. Consider the -importance of the site. The approach to London from the sea was then, as -now, a somewhat dreary progress between the mud-flats that fringed the -river. On the northern bank the rising ground, now known as Tower Hill, -would be the first relief to the eye after the wearying Essex marshes. -Beyond and behind that hill lay the little city, and beside<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> that hill -was set a church. But, with the building of the White Tower, the church -was eclipsed as a landmark for boats on the river, and now it is quite -obscured from the water-side by hideous brick warehouses that only men -of the nineteenth century could conceive and erect. In early days this -church stood on the edge of London; now it is in its very centre. Yet -few buildings equally well preserved have altered as little as this old -building has—this “fair church on Tower Hill”—and we have here handed -down to us much that is unique as a record not only of English history -but of the progress of architecture. The furnishings of the church, the -carvings and wrought-iron work, also carry us through generations of -activity in such arts, and the pavement brasses and sculptured tombs -serve as memorials of many a famous Englishman. The church has an -additional interest in being the nearest ancient building outside the -Tower walls and in having received, for burial, victims from the block -on Tower Hill. Yet the close connection of this ancient church with the -Tower and its history has not, hitherto, been sufficiently emphasised. -It is well, therefore, that we should give Allhallows some of our time -when we have explored and examined the Tower itself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span></p> - -<p>Four hundred years before the Conqueror laid the foundation stones of -the White Tower, a cluster of cottages on the edge of Tower Hill, and -lying not far from the Ald-gate of the old walls of London, constituted -the germ of the present parish, and stood within sight of the earlier -church. What the history of the church was then we have no means of -knowing, but as it would be the first building of importance that Danish -invaders came upon during their onslaughts on London, it must have -passed through exciting times in those old days of raid and turmoil.</p> - -<p>Erkenwald, a seventh-century Bishop of London, founded the convent at -Barking, in Essex. Of this convent his sister, St. Ethelburga, became -first abbess, and the abbesses of Barking were not only mitred, but were -in after days peeresses of the realm. Erkenwald made over certain rights -of the land, upon which the parish is now spread, to this convent of -Barking, and, in return, a priest was supplied from the community to -serve the religious needs of the parishioners. It was thus the surname -Barking was acquired. It is, however, a surname that is somewhat -misleading, as printers, even to this present day, have an awkward habit -of placing a comma between “Allhallows” and “Barking”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> and so send many -who would visit the church on an empty quest into Essex. But the poor -printer is not altogether to blame. The people here have a way of -calling themselves “Barking people” and of referring to the parish as -“Barking parish.” This leads to unnecessary confusion. The only -alternative would be to retain the term on Tower Hill and ask the good -folk of the Essex town to adopt some other name! As it is improbable -that either of these suggestions will be taken seriously, a return to -the ancient title, “Berkyngechurch by the Tower,” might solve the -difficulty.</p> - -<p>The parish system in England took its rise under Theodore, Archbishop of -Canterbury, A.D. 668, and the number and boundaries of the parishes as -we know them to-day agree very nearly with the parochial divisions in -Doomsday Book. The ground now included in Allhallows parish was -undoubtedly included in Roman London, which extended from Tower Hill to -Dowgate Hill, the present Fenchurch and Lombard Streets forming the line -of its northern boundary. Eastward of the parish lay marsh and -forest—the great forest of Essex, of which so wide and unspoilt a -portion remains to us in Epping Forest.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_020" id="ill_020"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<span class="caption">A True and Exact Draught of the TOWER LIBERTIES, <i>f</i>urvey -in the Year 1597 by <i>GULIELMUS HAIWARD</i> and <i>J. GASCOYNE.</i></span> -<br /> -<a href="images/map_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/map_sml.jpg" width="500" height="366" alt="Image unavailable: A True and Exact Draught of the TOWER LIBERTIES, furvey -in the Year 1597 by GULIELMUS HAIWARD and J. GASCOYNE. - -E. Gardner’s Collection." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"> -E. Gardner’s Collection. -</span><br /> -<p class="nonvis"><a href="images/map_lg.jpg">Larger image</a>[150 kb] -<a href="images/map_huge.jpg">Largest image</a> [1mb] -</p> - -</div> - -<p>In 1087, when a great fire devastated the city, a church in the Norman -style took the place of the Saxon building, and the nave pillars of -Allhallows date from that time. Of these pillars the one that shows its -great age more than the others—which, after successive cleanings, look -almost new—is that westernmost pillar on the north side which stands -within the choir practice-room.</p> - -<p>To this Norman building Richard I. added, either where the chancel -portion of the north aisle now stands, or near at hand, a Chantry Chapel -known as <span class="eng">Capella Beatae Mariae de Berkinge juxta Turrim</span>. This was, for -some time, the most famous shrine in connection with the building, and -became the care of the kings of England. In this Chantry was placed, by -Edward I., a statue of the Virgin, in accordance with a command received -by him in a vision, before his father’s death, in which he was assured -that he should subdue Wales and Scotland, and would be victorious while -this Berkinge Chapel was kept in repair. Tradition asserts that the -heart of the Lion-hearted Richard was placed under the altar of the -chapel here, but others maintain that after its removal from -Fontevrault, where the king was buried, it was sent to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span> Rouen. Yet in -the time of the first Edward, an Indulgence of forty days was obtained -for all penitents worshipping at the shrine of the Virgin at Berkinge -Chapel, and in that instrument prayer is especially asked for the soul -of the founder, Richard I., “whose heart is buried beneath the high -altar.”</p> - -<p>A little later in the history of the church and its chapels we come upon -the names of John Tiptoft and Sir John Croke, both of whom, famous in -their generations, took especial interest in Allhallows. The former was -brought into touch with the place upon his appointment as Constable of -the Tower. He was created Earl of Worcester by Henry VI., was the friend -and supporter of Caxton, and has been called “the nursing father of -English printing.” A man of great learning, he had studied under Guarino -at Ferrara, had occupied a professor’s chair at Padua, was termed by -Walpole “one of the noble authors of England,” is remembered as a good, -but ruthless, soldier, lawyer, and politician, and was, in the end, by -the influence of Warwick, the king-maker, disgraced and beheaded on -Tower Hill. Tiptoft founded a confraternity or guild at Berkinge Chapel, -and of this guild elected Sir John Croke to be one of the first Wardens. -Of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span> Tiptoft, who was buried at Blackfriars monastery, no memorial -remains here, but Croke’s tomb we shall come upon, later, as we go -through the church.</p> - -<p>In the time of Richard III. the chantry chapel comes once again into the -light of fame, and is known far and wide as “Berkingshaw.” Richard, who, -as we have seen, was no saint when dwelling in the Tower, seems to have -been influenced by the age and sanctity of Allhallows to do good deeds, -and is known here only as pious benefactor. He achieved this by -“newbuilding this chapel,” and adding to the original foundation a -college of priests, consisting of a Dean (Chaderton, a friend of -Richard’s), and six Canons. In the <i>Calendar of State Papers, Domestic</i>, -Henry VIII., 10th July, 1514, there is to be found a record of a -“confirmation of the Chapel of St. Mary in the Cæmetary of Barkingchurch -London to the Guild of St. Mary.” Provision is also made “for the -election of a Master and four Wardens annually for the safe custody of -the said chapel.”</p> - -<p>If Berkinge Chapel during its long history had been the peculiar care of -royalty, the church, after the upheavals in the time of Henry VIII. and -Edward VI., became the care, and also the resort, of the prosperous -burgesses of the City. It was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> conveniently near the Tower where the -King and his Court were lodged, and where the King’s Justiciars held -their sittings, and so became a meeting-place of representative -citizens, where matters could be discussed when the City and Tower -happened to be at variance—not by any means an infrequent occurrence. -From early times, indeed, we may trace the feelings of affection which -dwellers in the City, and more especially in the parish, have felt for -their historic church. In 1265 we hear of Sir Roger de Leiburn, who was -“lodging in the Tower,” meeting the representatives of the City at -Berkyngechurche on their proposing to make their submission to the king, -after the battle of Evesham. To that meeting came the Mayor “and a -countless multitude of citizens.” Again, in 1280, the burgesses -“apparelled in their best attire” gathered at Berkyngechurche and -proceeded to the Tower to meet the King’s Justiciars “for the purpose of -holding an Inquest, or inquiring into the peace of the City.” “Gregory, -the Mayor,” as we read in the <i>Liber Albus</i> of the Corporation of -London, “disputing the right of the Crown to hold an Inquest for the -City of London, for the honour of the Mayoralty refused to enter the -Tower as <i>Mayor</i>, but, laying aside his insignia and seal at the high -Altar of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> Berkyngechurche, as the last church in the City next the -Tower, entered the Tower merely as one of the Aldermen, alleging that by -the ancient liberties he was not bound to attend the Inquests, nor to -make appearance therein for judgments, unless forewarned for forty -days.” The King, Edward I., as punishment for this disobedience, -“abolished the office of Mayor, appointing a Warden in his place; which -custom obtained till 26 Ed. I., when the ancient liberties of the City -were restored.” Those of the citizens “who had accompanied Rokesly to -Berkyngechurche” were confined in the Tower for some days and would, no -doubt, on their return to their admiring families, be looked upon with a -certain awe ever afterwards.</p> - -<p>In the archives of the Guildhall we find that in 1302 Allhallows Barking -appears as one of the advowsons of the City of London belonging to the -Abbess and Convent of Barking. But after the suppression of the convent -by Henry VIII. the patronage passed to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in -whose hands it remains to this day. Another interesting fact we gather -from the ancient records of the City is that Allhallows was one of the -three churches where the curfew was rung each night as a warning that it -was time for all good citizens to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> be indoors, and as a precaution -against fire. This ancient curfew bell, it is believed, is that hung in -the small bell-turret on the tower of the church and upon which the -hammer of the clock strikes the hours.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of the fifteenth century great changes took place with -regard to the structure of the church. The chantry chapels had fallen -into a state of disrepair, and it became necessary to rebuild the -chancel to which they were attached and to strengthen the fabric of the -nave. It is to this rebuilding that we owe the contrast afforded by the -massive pillars of the body of the church with the graceful, deeply -moulded Perpendicular pillars of the chancel. The manner in which the -one style has been grafted on the other, where, as Allen says, “the -pillars between the chancel and the nave are singularly composed of half -a circular and half a clustered column worked together” attracts the -attention of even the most casual observer. Mr. Fleming, in his -admirable little pamphlet on the church, sums up the various alterations -that have taken place in the structure when he says “the view of the -stately interior tells at once, and more fully than the outside -features, the story of the changes that have befallen the church through -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> centuries since its foundation. For the columns of the nave are -Norman, the east window with its intricate tracery was the work of the -sumptuous Decorated period, whilst the clerestory and aisles, with the -slender clustered shafts of the chancel arcading, belong to the -Perpendicular style.... Allhallows is a good instance of the manner in -which, entirely convinced of the supreme merits of their school of -building, the architects of the Perpendicular period superimposed their -style on what had gone before. The contrast between the light clustered -columns of the chancel, with their beautiful splayed arches, and the -heavy pillars of the nave, is extremely striking, and almost remorseless -in its hint of the supercilious ease with which the men of the Tudor -period parted from the past and its traditions.”</p> - -<p>The interior of the church was at this time embellished by mural -decorations; and lingering traces of the paint, on one or two of the -nave columns, were left undisturbed during the last restoration, in -1904. A rood-screen stood in front of the new chancel, and above it rose -the famous Duddyngton organ. Alas, no traces of either remain to us, -even in a museum. While Charles I. was on the throne the interior was -again renovated, and during the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> long toll of subsequent years the -history of Allhallows resolves itself into a record of successive -restorations. Few churches have been more carefully and lovingly tended -than this has been, and its present state of preservation is due to this -interest which it has always inspired in those who appreciate its worth -and beauty. Allhallows, unlike so many other churches, has not lost but -gained by its restorations. An old building, such as this, is in -constant need of attention. The problem has ever been the vexed one of -renewing without destroying. But any one who enters Allhallows to-day -will feel that the problem has been solved here with complete success. -The later restorations, including the reroofing, restoration of the -ancient battlements, and preservation of the lower parts of the outer -walls, has cost, in round figures, twelve thousand pounds, and every -penny has been wisely spent in handing down to future generations so -wonderful a memorial of the past.</p> - -<p>The period of the Commonwealth has left its mark in most sacred -buildings as a time of pulling-down; but this church has the singular -advantage of remembering it as a time of setting-up. The old stone tower -which stood at the south-west corner of the building—the foundations of -which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> were uncovered a few years ago during the erection of that -amazing indiscretion, the warehouse which now stands upon the site—was -severely disturbed in 1649, when, on January 4 of that year, “a blow of -twenty-seven barrels of gunpowder, that took fire in a ship-chandler’s -house on the south side of the church,” created havoc in the immediate -neighbourhood. The explosion is described in Strype’s edition of Stow’s -<i>Survey</i>. “It seems that the chandler was busy in his shop barrelling -the powder, about seven o’clock in the evening, when it became ignited -and blew up, not merely that house, but fifty or sixty others. The -number of persons destroyed was never ascertained, for the next house -but one was a tavern, known as ‘The Rose,’ which was full of company, in -consequence of a parish dinner: it must have been very great, however, -judging from the number of limbs and bodies which were dug up from the -ruins. The hostess of the tavern, sitting in the bar, and the waiter -standing by with a tankard in his hand, were found beneath some fallen -beams, but were dead from suffocation. It is recorded that, the morning -after this disaster, a female infant was discovered lying in a cradle on -the roof of the church neither bruised nor singed.” The parents of the -babe were never traced. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span> child was given the surname “Barking,” -adopted by the parish, and “lived to an adult age.” But, while the baby -was saved, the heavy tower was doomed. As a result of the shock it -became so insecure that complete demolition was necessary. During the -Protectorate the present tower was set up, and, though it is about as -uninspired a piece of ecclesiastical brickwork as one can imagine, yet -it has a certain interest not only for having arisen during the days of -Cromwell, but for having just barely escaped destruction when the Great -Fire came to its base. It was up this tower that the ever-curious Pepys, -who lived near by, in Seething Lane, climbed hurriedly to see the -devastation of Old London. The event will be found recorded in the -<i>Diary</i> under the date September 5, 1666.</p> - -<p>The building of this tower brings to mind an amusing episode in the -records of the church. It appears that over the clock (the “dyall of -Barking Church,” mentioned by Pepys) the wardens then in office put up a -huge effigy of St. Michael, weighing nearly twenty tons. “Its right hand -held a trumpet and in its left was a leaden scroll, inscribed, ‘Arise, -ye dead, and come to judgment.’<span class="lftspc">”</span> St. Michael, having been scorched and -blistered by the Fire of London, was taken down in 1675—there<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span> was no -“hustling” in those days—repainted, and placed “over the Commandments -at the east end of the church.” Two smaller figures which had supported -the central effigy on the wall of the tower were put up over the organ -in the new organ-loft at the west end, where, reclining gracefully, they -remain to this day. St. Michael had a rougher time of it, and was the -cause of one of those absurd squabbles that too often mar the harmony of -a quiet parish. One or two of the congregation indicted the -churchwardens “at Old Bailey, under the statute of Edward VI., against -images,” but the prosecution was abandoned on the ground of expense. A -Mr. Shearman supported the parishioners, “and upon his own -responsibility destroyed the image.” This occasioned “a furious war of -words between him and the lecturer, Jonathan Saunders,” acting as curate -of the parish. Shearman wrote virulent pamphlets which were “published -by a friend of the Author’s, to prevent false reports,” and addressed -them to the Vicar, Dr. Hickes, and his wardens. The latter part of this -entertaining publication asserts—as a dig at Saunders as compared with -the Vicar—that “men of the least learning are always the most formal.” -It goes on to insinuate “that Barking parish was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> then as famous for its -love of drinking ceremonies as for its dislike of religious formality.” -The drinking ceremonies have certainly passed away. The pamphlet -concludes thus: “I hope our parish shall not lose an inch of its -reputation, nor be censured as irregular, but remain a primitive pattern -for all London, yea, and all England.” Mr. Saunders replied with -double-shotted guns, and the Shearman battery opened fire again with -unfailing vigour. The parishioners soon tired of the troublesome and -cantankerous Shearman and all his ways. His statements were considered -“rude, scurrilous, and scandalous,” and it was recorded in the minutes -of the vestry, held on April 24, 1681, that his attack “tends to the -dishonour of the Church of England as now established, and is a libel -upon the Vicar and the whole parish.” So ends this seventeenth-century -turmoil.</p> - -<p>Before we enter the church by the north porch, our attention will be -attracted by the three carved figures above the doorway. That in the -centre represents the Virgin (the church being dedicated to St. Mary and -All Saints), with St Ethelburga, Abbess of Barking, on one side and -Bishop Andrewes (who was baptised in Allhallows) on the other. This -group, as has been well said, “combines in one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_021" id="ill_021"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_024_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_024_sml.jpg" width="349" height="500" alt="Image unavailable: THE TOWER FROM GREAT TOWER STREET (SOUTH PORCH OF -ALLHALLOWS BARKING)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">THE TOWER FROM GREAT TOWER STREET (SOUTH PORCH OF -ALLHALLOWS BARKING)</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">presentment three periods in the history of the Church, the primitive, -the mediæval, and the modern.” Inside the porch the quaint chambers on -the left are restorations of what in earlier times were, it is -conjectured, recesses for meditation and study. In front of us is the -second doorway, delicately carved, and much weather-worn owing to -exposure of the soft stone before the building of the porch. The first -glance we have of the interior of the church, from just within this -doorway, must impress us with a sense of the dignity of the building.</p> - -<p><i>North Aisle.</i>—As we turn to go down the north aisle we will see, set -in the pavement, a plain, square brass above the grave of George Snayth, -auditor to Archbishop Laud, who was buried here, to be near his master, -in 1651. The church is singularly rich in pavement brasses, and, before -the removals and mutilations of Puritan times, possessed an even more -remarkable collection of these memorials. At the eastern end of the -aisle we come upon the curious stone commemorating Thomas Virby, seventh -vicar. This is the only tomb of a pre-Reformation vicar that remains in -the building. Though the slab is worn almost smooth by the feet of so -many generations, yet the outlines of an elaborate design can still be -traced upon it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> A rubbing taken recently showed a full-length figure, -with a dog lying at the feet to the left. The fragment of brass towards -the top of the stone bore, apparently, an engraving of the head and of -the hands, raised to the chin, in an attitude of prayer. Virby was a -remarkable man. In a fifteenth-century <i>English Chronicle</i>, edited for -the Camden Society in 1856, it appears that “in the XIX y<sup>r</sup>. of King -Harry, the Friday before midsummer, a Priest called Sir Ric. Wyche, a -Vicar in Essex, was burnt on Tower Hill for heresy, for whose death was -a great murmuring and many simple people came to the place making their -prayers as to a saint and bare away the ashes of his body for reliques. -Some were taken to prison [in the Tower]: amongst others the Vicary of -Barking Church beside the Tower, in whose parish all this was done.” -Virby was charged with scattering “powder and spices over the place -where the heretic was burnt that it might be believed that the sweet -flavour came of the ashes of the dead.” But evidently this was -considered no very great offence, for Virby was subsequently set free, -restored to his position at Allhallows, and died Vicar in 1453. Nearer -the altar steps will be found the beautifully engraved brass, in the -French style, of John Bacon, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span> died in 1437. A heart, inscribed with -the word “Mercy,” and encircled by a scroll, lies in the upper part of -the stone, and the figures of Bacon and his wife, cut out of “latten” or -sheet-brass, and two feet one inch in length, occupy the sides. The -treatment of the drapery of both figures is quite perfect, giving, too, -an excellent idea of the costume of the time. The scroll bears the -words, “<i>Mater Dei memento mei: Jesu fili Dei miserere mei.</i>” Bacon -belonged to the ancient company of Woolmen, which seems to have been the -leading guild of the Middle Ages; its members were usually adventurous -and wealthy men. Brasses dedicated to men of his craft are very -numerous; and this need excite no surprise when we remember how much of -their trade was continental and particularly carried on in those -countries where latten was milled. Bacon, we may surmise from his will -preserved at the Guildhall, was a man of substance and of many acres. -Near by will be seen an incised slab over the tomb of the wife of Wm. -Denham, Alderman, Sheriff, and Master of the Ironworkers’ Company, who -departed this life “on Wednesday at 5 of ye clok at afternown Ester Weke -ye last day of Marche A° D° 1540.” The brass has disappeared.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span></p> - -<p>The finely wrought canopied altar-tomb against the north wall, close by -the Bacon brass, dates back to the fifteenth century. It is carved in -Purbeck marble and at the back has two small brasses, one representing a -man with five sons and the other a woman with seven daughters, all -kneeling. Name and date are both gone, but a shield in the left-hand -corner enables us to connect the monument with the family of Croke. Sir -John Croke, it will be remembered, was one of the early wardens of -Berkinge Chapel, a trustee to whom Edward IV. “conveyed lands for the -support of the Chapel of St. Mary” and founder of a chantry here in -1477. This John Croke, “citizen, leather-seller, and alderman of -London,” was a generous benefactor to Allhallows, leaving to it at his -death many gifts and sundry legacies “to the altar of Allhallows Bkg., -the works of the church, to purchase vestments and books, for the repair -of the rood-loft,” and so on. It is quite probable that this memorial -was used as a chantry altar, of which there were many in the church -until 1547 and the beginning of “the years of spoliation.” A well-carved -crest will be seen on the pavement stone covering the Marishall tomb, -and, nearer the altar-steps, a grey marble slab of the year of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> -Great Fire lies over the grave of Sir Roger Hatton, Alderman, whose -coat-of-arms may be traced near the head of the stone. On the north wall -we find a memorial to Charles Wathen, “the indulgent parent of nine -children,” one of which, Master William, “received his death-wound in -battling with a pirate in the East Indies” and should therefore be -somewhat of a hero to all boys in the adventure stage of their careers. -A broken pillar on this wall was put up in 1696 in memory of Giles -Lytcott, “the first Controller-General of the Customs of England and the -English Colonies in America,” whose mother was the daughter of Sir -Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower. Pepys, in his account of the -Fire of 1666, refers to an “Alderman Starling, a very rich man, without -children. The fire at the next door to him in our lane (Seething Lane). -After our men had saved his house he did give 2s. 6d. amongst thirty of -them, and did quarrel with some that would remove the rubbish out of the -way of the fire, saying that they had come to steal.” This “very rich -man” was Lord Mayor in 1670, and his arms are depicted in stained glass -on one of the windows of this aisle “as a remembrance of the escape of -the church from the Great Fire.” Attached to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> pillar behind the -pulpit there remains an interesting relic in the form of an elegantly -designed hat peg, the only survivor of many such pegs on the pillars of -this church, dating back, it is believed, to the early seventeenth -century. Above the Croke altar-tomb, to the left, there is to be seen -the kneeling figure of Jerome Bonalia, an Italian, probably the Venetian -Ambassador, who died in 1583 and, in his will, thus indicates his -burial-place, “Volendo che il mio corpo sia sepoltra n’ella pariochia -d’i Barchin.”</p> - -<p><i>East End.</i>—The eighteenth-century monument that partially hides the -window at the east end of the north aisle covers the tomb of Thomas -Gordon of Tower Liberty, who, according to the inscription, had the -“singular felicity” to command “esteem, confidence, and affection in the -tender and more delicate connections of private life.” But his is -certainly the misfortune to be remembered by as ugly and depressing a -memorial as could be imagined. Even in the year of its erection a vestry -minute records “that the monument now erecting for the late Mr. Gordon -is a nuisance”! In <i>Machin’s Diary</i>, 1556, it is stated that on “the vi -day of September was bered at Barking Church Mr. Phelype Dennys, Squyre, -with cote of armes.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span> This Dennis coat-of-arms may still be seen, now -somewhat time-worn, on the wall between the Gordon monument and the -altar.</p> - -<p>The beautiful and softly-toned stained glass of the East window is -modern. The work of Mr. J. Clayton, it commemorates the incumbency of -Dr. Mason, the first Head of the present College of Clergy attached to -this church. The altar-piece beneath, heavy in design and gloomy in -effect, is an example of the art of 1686. Some elaborate carving is -hidden beneath the coverings and frontal of the Communion Table: it is -an excellent example of the skilful workmanship in wood that has been to -some extent neglected since the days of Gibbons. For many years the -brass altar-rails, erected in 1750, were so blackened by neglect that -they were often mistaken for rails of old wood. By their individual -gracefulness when examined at close quarters, and yet solid appearance -when viewed from the nave, these beautiful rails form one of the most -striking adornments of the building.</p> - -<p><i>Clergy Vestry.</i>—Permission to enter this room should be obtained from -the sacristan, who will show the many interesting documents treasured -here. On the wall, to the right as one enters the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> room, hangs an -excellent painting of Dr. Gaskarth, twenty-seventh vicar, who was -appointed in 1686. “A highly popular Vicar, generous, and of firm, but -conciliatory manners. Under his auspices the church was twice thoroughly -repaired. He was vicar for forty-six years and died in 1732, aged 86.” -Those who have an interest in such matters are recommended to read the -beautiful Latin lines inscribed in the registers where, under the date -Dec. 1, 1703, Dr. Gaskarth records the burial of his wife. On the wall, -to the left of the entrance, there are two interesting old maps, the -lower one, which is more of a picture than a map, giving an excellent -idea of the appearance of London before the Fire, and the small one, -higher on the wall, a representation of Allhallows, standing almost -alone on Tower Hill, before the parish consisted of more than a few rows -of cottages. This is the valuable “Gascoyne survey, made in 1597.” On -the wall to the left of the fireplace will be found a key-plan to all -the tombs, brasses, and memorials of the church, placed here through the -instrumentality of the then Churchwarden, Mr. Henry Urquhart. Would that -earlier churchwardens had taken like interest in the place, and left us -such plans of the building in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span> their day! From the windows of the vestry -there is to be had a glimpse of the graveyard, somewhat depressing, with -its many ancient and fast-decaying tomb-monuments and headstones.</p> - -<p>The registers of the church, stored in an iron room opening off this -vestry, contain much that is of very great interest, and time spent in -their examination will not be lost. There are thirteen books, the first -beginning in 1558, with the accession of Queen Elizabeth, and extending -to 1650.</p> - -<p>Taking the baptisms first, we are reminded that before the beginning of -the records now remaining there was, about the year 1555, the -christening ceremony of the famous Bishop Andrewes, “a native of this -parish,” in the church. As the Bishop constantly prayed for Allhallows -Barking, “where I was baptised,” this fact is beyond dispute though the -actual entry is lost. In 1609 we come upon the name of Francis, son of -Sir James Bourchier, Knt., under February 5. Bourchier was father-in-law -of Oliver Cromwell, and a City merchant of considerable importance. He -possessed an estate at Felsted in Essex, and a town house beside Tower -Hill, “then a favourite residence of the lesser aristocracy.” In 1616 -we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> find that a son of Sir William Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, was -baptised here, showing the close connection that has always existed -between this church and the Tower. But the most interesting of all the -entries is that against October 23, 1644, when William Penn, founder of -Pennsylvania, was brought to the font in Allhallows. His father, an -officer of high rank in the navy, at that time “dwelt upon the east side -of Tower Hill, within a court adjoining to London Wall,” and William, -his eldest son, was born within that house, now demolished, within Tower -Liberties. It is worth while to note that it was not until quite late in -the eighteenth century that double Christian names were given to -children brought to baptism.</p> - -<p>With regard to marriages, the register begins in 1564, and in 1650 there -is a curious entry, under March 28, which states that “a cupple being -married went away and gave not their names”! In 1763 Samuel Parr, father -of the celebrated Dr. Parr, married “Margaret Cox of this parish, -spinster.” This Margaret was “the daughter of Dr. Cox, formerly -Head-master of Harrow School.” Another interesting entry is that -referring to John Quincy Adams, afterwards sixth President<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> of the -United States, who was thirty years old when, on July 26, 1797, he -married Louisa Catherine Johnson of this parish. Judge Jeffreys also -married his first wife here, but the entry has disappeared.</p> - -<p>The Burial Register is most remarkable of all. In 1563, a plague year, -there were no less than 284 burials, mostly women and children, and -nearly 22,000 people died in that year in London alone. Other periods of -plague and consequent excessive mortality were the years 1582, 1593, -1625, and 1665. In 1625 “394 persons died in this parish, being six -times the average mortality.” The Calendar of State Papers for this year -contains a record of “a petition from the minister and churchwardens of -Allhallows Barking, praying that some part of the cloth for mourning for -the late King, distributed among the poor of divers parishes of London, -may be given to this parish, one of the poorest within the city walls -and sorely visited by the plague.” The plague of 1665, most disastrous -of a long series, is too well known, from sundry descriptions, to need -more than mere mention here. Before the earliest date in this book of -burials there was placed “in the graveyard of Barking church the -headless<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span> body, very indecently interred,” of Bishop Fisher, executed on -the East Smithfield side of Tower Hill in 1535. Reference has already -been made to Fisher in connection with his imprisonment in the Bell -Tower, and the removal of his body, after it had lain for some time in -this churchyard, to St. Peter’s, on Tower Green. Another victim of Henry -VIII.’s wrath, Henry Howard, the poet Earl of Surrey, was, in 1547, -buried beside the church after a mock trial and subsequent execution on -Tower Hill. His remains, also, were removed and taken, in 1614, to -Framlingham in Suffolk. Lord Thomas Grey, brother of the Duke of Suffolk -and uncle of Lady Jane Grey, was “heddyd on Tower Hill, April 28, 1554, -and berried at Allhallows Barking.” In Queen Mary’s luckless reign, “a -plot to rob the Queen’s Exchequer was discovered and the leaders sent to -the Tower.” <i>Machin’s Diary</i> thus records the event: “On the eighth day -of July, Henry Peckham and John Daneel were hanged on Tower Hill. Their -bodies were cut down and headed, the heads carried to London Bridge and -the bodies buried in Barkin church.” Continuing our inspection of the -Burial Register, we come upon the most interesting entry of all. Under -the date<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> January 11, 1644, we read: “William Laud, Archbishop of -Canterbury, beheaded T——.” The last word has been almost erased. We -can but conjecture that the word was “Traitor,” and that some later hand -scratched out all but the initial letter. But why was that letter left -if every trace of so hateful a word was to be obliterated? Laud was -buried in the Vicar’s vault under the altar, but his body was taken to -St. John’s College, Oxford, in 1663. Laud’s body, “being accompanied to -the grave with great multitudes of people, who in love, or curiosity, or -remorse of conscience had gathered together, was decently interred in -Allhallows Barking ... and had the honour of being buried in that church -in the form provided by the Common Prayer Book after it had been long -disused and almost reprobated in most of the churches in London.”</p> - -<p>Some earlier entries in this register are of sufficient interest to -attract attention. During 1560 there is a curious reference to the -burial of “a poor starved Callis man” which may mean a callisman (a -beggar), or a destitute refugee from Calais, which had been lost to -England two years earlier. In 1591, 1596, and 1599 there were buried in -the church two sons and a daughter of the famous<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> Robert, Earl of Essex, -favourite of Elizabeth, which Earl “possessed a house in Seething Lane, -in this parish.” Entries regarding persons of less fame, but surely of -considerable interest to us as suggesting the state of the poor at that -time, occur in the seventeenth century. One is “a poore soldier, dying -in the streetes in ye night whose name was unknowne” (February 18, -1606); another is “a poore boy that dyed in the streetes” (1620); and -yet another is “one unknowne, starved on Tower Hill” (January 15, 1627). -With the entries for January 1 and 2, 1644, we are introduced to the -period of the Civil War, during which time Tower Hill was the scene of -frequent executions and Allhallows Barking received the headless bodies -of many of the victims. Against the dates just mentioned there are the -names of John Hotham, Esq., “beheaded for betraying his trust to the -State,” and Sir John Hotham, Knt., “beheaded for betraying his trust to -the Parliament.” Sir John Hotham and his son were beheaded in -consequence of a design to deliver up Hull to the King, which place they -held for the Parliamentary forces. With these melancholy entries we may -place another of the seventeenth day of the following June, which -records the burial of “Dorathie,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> daughter of Sir John Hotham, Knt., and -the Ladie Elizabeth his wife,” and tells of the passing away of the -grief-stricken child, “who desired to be buried here with her father.” -On April 23, 1650, the entry, “Colonel Andrewes beheaded; buried in ye -chancel,” refers to Colonel Eusebius Andrewes, “an old Loyalist, -condemned to suffer as a traitor. He was beheaded on Tower Hill, dying -with much firmness and courage.”</p> - -<p>On leaving the vestry we may notice, behind the door leading into the -church, a recently discovered and much-damaged piscina, or place of -ablution for the priests serving at the altar. This was accidentally -found when the walls were stripped of their plaster, in 1904. From its -position it would lead one to suppose that the altar rails were at one -time carried along on the top of the present altar steps. But of this we -have no conclusive proof.</p> - -<p>The best view of the interior of the church is to be obtained from this -standpoint. The high pitch of the excellently restored roof, the grace -and lightness of the chancel pillars as contrasted with the massiveness -of those in the nave, the imposing appearance of the handsome organ -case—all these striking features will leave one of the most lingering<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> -impressions of the building as a whole, apart from its interest in -detail, with those who pause here as before a remarkable picture.</p> - -<p>On the easternmost pillar of the chancel there will be noticed the -memorial to John Kettlewell, the celebrated Non-juror, who died in 1695, -and, by his own desire, was buried “in the same grave where Archbishop -Laud was before interred.” His funeral rites were solemnised by Bishop -Ken, who read the Burial Office, and the whole Evening Service, at -Allhallows Barking on the occasion. Ken, deprived of his see, thus, for -the last time, exercised his ministry within the Church of England.</p> - -<p><i>South Aisle.</i>—Beneath the window at the east end of this aisle the -Colleton monument, “from the chisel of Scheemakers,” almost rivals its -neighbour in the North Aisle by its heavy dulness, but the altar-tomb -against the south wall is an early monument worthy of careful -examination. Like the Croke altar-tomb already described, it dates back -to the fifteenth century and is the more ancient of the two. A gilt -brass plate at the back of the tomb is graven with a representation of -the Resurrection. It is not now possible to ascertain to whose memory -the tomb was erected: possibly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> it commemorates the founder of a chantry -chapel attached to this chancel aisle.</p> - -<p>The beautifully carved font-cover, executed in whitened wood—not -plaster, as many suppose—is the work, and some think the masterpiece, -of Grinling Gibbons, whose incomparable works of art, the carving of -fruit and flowers and decorative scroll-work, in wood, are to be seen in -other parts of this church, in other City churches, and in many a -manor-house and ancient hall throughout England. This font-cover will -repay the most careful study. Gibbons’ signature, so to speak, may be -found in the “split pea-pod” near the feet of one of the figures.</p> - -<p>The brasses in this aisle are of singular interest. The elaborate brass -near the altar-tomb, with its ornamental border, is a 1546 memorial to -William Thynne, one of the Masters of the Household under Henry VIII. He -was the first to edit a complete edition of Chaucer’s works, “to show -that England had her classics as well as other nations.” When this brass -was taken up and restored in 1861 it was found to be engraved on both -sides. The supposition is that, at the dissolution of the monasteries, -“when many treasures found their way into the markets”—as one writer -puts it, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> just a touch of cynicism—a larger brass, which had -covered the tomb of some dignitary of the Church, was cut down to the -size of the figures we see on this Thynne slab, and the back of the -former engraving became the front of the present one. Thynne “married -Ann, daughter of William Bonde, Esq., of the city of London, who now -lies by his side. He left three daughters and one infant son, Francis, -who became a distinguished antiquarian, and held the office of Lancaster -Herald. The extreme youth of this child prevented his inheriting his -father’s prestige at Court, which in consequence descended to his -nephews, one of whom was Sir John Thynne of Longleat, founder of the -noble house of Bath.” The small circular brass (1389) near by, bearing -an inscription in Norman-French, is the oldest in the City, and records -the resting-place of William Tonge, a generous benefactor to Allhallows -in the fourteenth century. The larger Rusche brass, laid down in 1498, -has had its precatory invocation erased by the over-zealous Puritans, -but is otherwise in good preservation. The engraving is rough and bold. -The details of the costume are true to contemporary drawings of the -period, and the position of the dog will recall what was said with -regard to the tracings<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span></p> - -<p><a name="ill_022" id="ill_022"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/ill_025_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_025_sml.jpg" width="500" height="356" alt="Image unavailable: CHURCH OF ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER (EAST SIDE OF -SOUTH AISLE, WITH GIBBONS’ FONT COVER)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">CHURCH OF ALLHALLOWS BARKING BY THE TOWER (EAST SIDE OF -SOUTH AISLE, WITH GIBBONS’ FONT COVER)</span> -</div> - -<p class="nind">on the Virby stone in the North Aisle. Farther west lies the Rawson -brass, dated 1518, also mutilated by the iconoclasts of the mid -seventeenth century. The central figure is that of Christopher Rawson, -“freeman of the ancient Guild of the Mercers,” and the other figures -represent “Margaret and Agnes his wyves.” In his will he mentions “a -chantry in the chapel of St. Anne in the church of Allhallows Barking” -where prayers for “his own soul and the souls of his wyves and children” -were to be said. Canon Mason, in an article which appeared in the -<i>Nineteenth Century</i> for May 1898, says: “From a theological point of -view [this is] perhaps the most interesting monument in the church. From -the mouths of the three figures issue scrolls, which unite over their -heads in an invocation to the Blessed Trinity. But these scrolls are in -one respect unique.” Reference is made to the wording of the scrolls, -“<i>Salva nos</i>, <i>Libera nos</i>, and <i>Iustifica nos</i>, <i>O beata Trinitas</i>.” -“<span class="lftspc">‘</span>Save us’ and ‘Deliver us’ are of course expressions common enough; -‘<i>Vivifica nos</i>,’ ‘Quicken us,’ occurs in a similar context in mediæval -services; but search may be made without finding anywhere else, I -believe, in liturgical formulas or in sepulchral inscriptions, another -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span>example of ‘Justify us.’... In the year 1518 the controversies about -justification raised on the Continent by Luther had not begun to -convulse England; and indeed Rawson’s invocation takes no side in the -controversy. He does not say whether he hopes to be justified by faith -or justified by works, but he has laid hold upon the long-forgotten -word, and craves that the blessing contained in it, whatever that might -consist of, may be given to him and to his wives.” The Basano slab, of -1624, lies above “one of the King’s servants,” and the adjoining tomb of -Dame Anne Masters, who died in 1719, records the wife of Sir H. Masters, -City Alderman, and mother of nineteen children, which goodly company of -descendants occupy much burial-space round the Rawson tomb.</p> - -<p>On one of the pillars of this aisle a sadly dilapidated brass plate -commemorates “William Armer, Governor of the Pages of Honor to Henry -VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, who died in 1560.” His wife’s -burial is entered in the registers against May 1, 1563. She is the lady -to whom, according to the <i>Privy Purse Expenses of Henry VIII.</i>, -payments were made “for cambric and makyng y<sup>e</sup> King’s shirts.”</p> - -<p>The daily services of the church were continued<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> in this aisle without -intermission during the progress of the work of restoration.</p> - -<p><i>Choir.</i>—As we walk back towards the east end and turn into the choir -portion of the chancel we may notice two quaint semicircular seats at -the foot of the pillars on the altar steps. These forms were made out of -the wood of the old roof removed in 1814. The choir stalls, of solid -oak, are comparatively recent additions to the building and bear some -fine carving representing “the fellowship of the angelic with the animal -world.” These stalls are constructed to accommodate the clergy of the -Mission College of Allhallows Barking as well as the members of the -choir. The seat of the Warden of the College and Vicar of the parish is -that which faces east. In mentioning the vicar and clergy, we may here -fitly recall many of the men who have served at the altar of Allhallows -and whose names have not been lost to fame. There is preserved a tabular -list of the vicars since the presentation to the living of Wm. Colles on -March 2, 1387. Chaderton, thirteenth vicar, was, as we have already -seen, appointed dean of the “free chaple of Berkynge” by Richard III. -Carter, appointed in 1525, was a friend of Wolsey’s, and resigned in the -year of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> Cardinal’s fall, 1530. Dawes, 1542-1565, was the first -Protestant incumbent and possessed many of the attributes of the Vicar -of Bray as sketched in the verses of the old song; Wood, 1584-1591, was -the first vicar appointed by the Archbishop of Canterbury; Ravis, vicar -from 1591 to 1598, was one of the translators of the present Authorised -Version of the Bible; as was also his successor at Allhallows, Dr. -Tighe. The twenty-fifth vicar, Edward Layfield, appointed in 1635, was a -nephew of Archbishop Laud. “Layfield was deprived in 1642 [by an -ordinance of the House of Commons] under circumstances of considerable -barbarity. He was interrupted during the performance of divine service, -dragged out of church [while the walls of the old church resounded to -the shrieks of an infuriated mob within and without the building], set -on a horse with his surplice not removed, the Common Prayer Book tied -round his neck; and in this manner forced to ride through the city. Then -was he thrown into prison ... and no provision made for his maintenance -whatever.” Layfield was restored to his living on the return of Charles -II. His contemporaries describe him as “a man of generous and noble -spirit, great courage and resolution, and much respected in his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> parish, -though a High Churchman.” Vicar during the Plague and the Fire, he died -in 1680, and was buried here in the chancel. Dr. Hickes, appointed in -1681, was “one of the most remarkable and highly educated men of his -generation,” and, on the accession of William and Mary, “refused to take -the oaths, was deprived of all his preferments,” and became a Non-juror. -He was a friend of Pepys, and that volatile product of the Restoration -period often lamented Dr. Hickes’ long and dull sermons. Hickes attended -Pepys as he lay on his deathbed, and many references to this Vicar of -Allhallows will be found in the <i>Diary</i>.</p> - -<p>The present body of mission clergy attached to the church have their -College in Trinity Square, on Tower Hill. They do excellent work for the -Church at large, travel to all parts of England constantly, and to far -parts of the world occasionally to preach and conduct missions. In this -way the revenue of Allhallows—a seemingly large sum to the “man in the -street” (who usually remains there, to scoff at “useless city -churches”)—is taken up to the last penny for this most valuable and -useful work. The College was established in 1883, and many men known far -and wide for their work in the Church—I may instance Dr. Collins, now<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> -Bishop of Gibraltar—have been members of it. Its first Head was Dr. A. -J. Mason, now Master of Pembroke College, Cambridge, to whom Allhallows -is indebted for the restoration of the north porch and the gift of the -upper schoolroom. His successor, the present Warden, Dr. Arthur W. -Robinson, has since carried on the arduous duties of the College and has -brought all departments of the work in connection with Allhallows as a -parish church up to a point of remarkable efficiency. Never was the old -building more zealously served than it is now, and never has it been -better used by parishioners and by others whose daily work lies in the -City. A numerous congregation, consisting of those who come up from the -eastern suburbs by the early trains and have an hour to spare before -beginning work, assembles here every week-day morning at eight o’clock. -The service consists of prayers, a hymn, a short address, and an organ -recital. The Sunday congregations are large for a City church, -especially in the evenings, and on two or three occasions during the -year the church is crowded beyond the actual seating capacity—an -inspiring sight when viewed from the organ loft.</p> - -<p><i>Chancel and Nave.</i>—In the chancel, between the choir stalls, may be -seen the James brass, of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> 1591, with figure about three feet in length; -also the brass, of 1612, to “Mary, wife of John Burnell, Merch<sup>t</sup>.” -Burnell presented a communion table to the church in 1613. The last -brass, but the most famous and artistic of all, is that large square -sheet of latten which is set in the pavement to the west of the Litany -desk. It dates back to 1530 and is a memorial of “Andrewe Evyngar, -Cityzen and Salter, and Ellyn his wife.” The Puritan defacements are -only too plain, yet, in spite of this, it is possible to decipher the -beaten-out lettering, which ran: “Of youre charite praye for the soules -of ... on whoos soulys Jesu have m’cy, Amen.” This brass is one of the -finest specimens of Flemish workmanship in England. Its only rivals are -brasses at Ipswich and at St. Albans. It is unnecessary to describe it -in detail; it can best be studied from the framed “rubbing” which stands -behind the choir screen in the South Aisle.</p> - -<p>The very fine Jacobean pulpit was erected before England had a single -colony. There it has stood during the rise of the British Empire, and it -has survived many a storm in Church and State. Though the pulpit dates -back to 1613 the sounding-board above was erected in 1638, and is -termed, in the Vestry minutes of that year, “the new<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span> pulpitt hedd.” -This sounding-board is inscribed on each of its sides with the motto: -“<i>Xtm pdicam crucifixum</i>,” which reminds us that whether the preacher in -that pulpit looks south, or east, or west, his one subject is to be -Christ crucified. The fine sword-rests, rising above the choir screen -behind the Vicar’s stall, were erected by successive Lord Mayors and -bear their respective crests, with the City coat-of-arms. The one on the -south side, the smallest of the three, was erected in 1727 by Lord Mayor -Eyles. That in the centre commemorates the mayoralty of Slingsby Bethel, -Esq., in 1755, while the remaining one was put up in 1760 when Sir -Thomas Chitty, a parishioner of Allhallows, was appointed chief citizen. -After examining the graceful ironwork of these sword-rests, the delicate -wrought-iron design beneath the pulpit-rail should by no means be passed -over. The choir screen itself, as well as the screen behind the -churchwardens’ pews at the back of the church, is worthy of study by all -who are interested in old wood-carving.</p> - -<p><i>West End.</i>—From north to south porch, until the 1904 restoration, -there extended an ugly, heavy gallery, which made the entrance to the -church, from either side, very gloomy. Now the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span> former organ-loft is -rebuilt and the interior of the church, by this alteration, regains the -open appearance of earlier times. In the entrance-chamber of the tower -there is preserved a very fine leaden water-cistern on which appear the -date 1705 and the letters A·H·B, the monogram of the church, while in -the tower itself there hangs a peal of finely toned bells, eight in -number, which in 1813 replaced the bells hung, in 1659, when the present -tower was new.</p> - -<p>The first organ in this church was that one, already spoken of, built by -Anthony Duddyngton in 1519. Though all trace of this very early -instrument is lost, the original indenture still remains. Dr. Hopkins -says, “This is the earliest known record of the building of an organ in -England.” In 1675-77 the present organ-case was erected by Thomas and -Renatus Harris, and the organ then consisted of great and choir manuals -only; but a third manual, the swell, was added in the eighteenth -century. Hatton describes the organ-case as he saw it in 1708 as -“enriched with Fames, and the figures of Time and Death, carved in -<i>basso relievo</i> and painted, above.” The organ was improved by Gerard -Smith in 1720, and again in 1813. It was again overhauled and enlarged -by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span> Bunting in 1872 and 1878, was partially burnt in 1880, and -“restored” (very badly indeed) in 1881. On Sunday, 3rd November 1907, -during Evensong, this ancient instrument broke down and was not used -again. The choral services were sung by the choir either entirely -unaccompanied or supported by a pianoforte played in the chancel. The -instrument is now being rebuilt by Messrs. Harrison and Harrison, of -Durham, and this well-known firm have the problem before them of -preserving what is of historic interest in the old organ and -incorporating that in the newer and more efficient mechanism of the -organs of to-day. A complete list of organists of this church, from 1676 -to the present day, has been preserved.</p> - -<p>The large and fully equipped music-room at the north-west angle of the -building is where the daily practices of the choristers are held. In -addition to the fittings incidental to the work of the choir, it -contains some interesting photos of the church and two old parish plans. -The royal arms above the door, on the side of the organ-loft, used, in -Georgian days, to hang above the altar. A spacious music-, or -school-room lies over the north porch, and this portion of the building, -though modern, is quite in keeping with the ancient church<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span> to which it -is attached. Of that old church we now take leave. Though great the -history it has already made, there is perhaps as great a history for it -yet to make.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> </p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I-i">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#Q">Q</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V-i">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Y">Y</a>. -</p> - -<p class="nind"> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Adam of Lambourne, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -Adams, John Quincy, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Albemarle, Duke of, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> - -Allhallows Barking by the Tower, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_169">169-213</a><br /> - -Andrewes, Bishop, <a href="#page_193">193</a><br /> - -Anne, Queen, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -<i>Anne of Geierstein</i>, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Apsley, Sir William, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Arden, John, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Argyle, Marquis of, <a href="#page_078">78</a><br /> - -Arundel, Earl of, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -<i>Arx Palatina</i>, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> - -Askew, Anne, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> - -Audley, Lord, <a href="#page_072">72</a><br /> - -Axe, processional, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a>Badlesmere, Lady, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Bailly, Charles, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Baliol, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -Ballium Wall, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Balmerino, Earl of, <a href="#page_164">164-167</a><br /> - -Banqueting Hall, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> - -Barlow, Lucy, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -Bastion, North, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Beauchamp Tower, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_066">66</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Beefeaters, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -Beer Lane, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Beggars, <a href="#page_155">155</a><br /> - -Bell Tower, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_094">94-97</a><br /> - -Bishops, Seven, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> - -<i>Black Dwarf, The</i>, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> - -Block, the (<i>see</i> Tower Hill, and Tower Green)<br /> - -Blood, Colonel, <a href="#page_138">138-143</a><br /> - -Bloody Tower, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_099">99-106</a><br /> - -Blount tomb, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> - -Bowyer Tower, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Brackenbury, Sir Robert, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Brasses (Allhallows Barking), <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -Brass Mount Battery, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Brick Tower, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Broad Arrow Tower, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Buckingham, Edward, Duke of, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a><br /> - -Buckingham, Duke of (<i>see</i> Villiers)<br /> - -Bulwark Gate, <a href="#page_087">87</a><br /> - -Burdett, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Burley, Sir Simon, <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Byward Tower, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_090">90-93</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a>Cade rebellion, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> - -Campion, Father, <a href="#page_067">67</a><br /> - -Capel, Lord Arthur, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Capel, Lord, <a href="#page_091">91</a><br /> - -Carew, Sir Alexander, <a href="#page_075">75</a><br /> - -Casemates, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Cato Street conspiracy, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Cells, secret, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Chaderton, Dean, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> - -Chantry chapels,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> - -Chaplain’s house, <a href="#page_131">131</a><br /> - -Charles I., <a href="#page_073">73-78</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Charles II., <a href="#page_078">78-81</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -Charles Edward, Prince, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> - -Charles, Duke of Orleans, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -Cholmondeley tomb, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Civil War, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a><br /> - -Clarence, Duke of, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Cobham, Lord (<i>see</i> Oldcastle)<br /> - -Cobham, Lord, <a href="#page_072">72</a><br /> - -Coldharbour Tower (site of), <a href="#page_013">13</a><br /> - -Coleby, <a href="#page_006">6</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -Collins, Bishop (quoted), <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> - -Communion plate (St Peter’s), <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Conqueror, William the, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> - -Constable Tower, <a href="#page_145">145</a><br /> - -Constable’s Garden, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -Constable of France, <a href="#page_029">29</a><br /> - -Coronation festivities, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a><br /> - -Council Chamber (White Tower), <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> - -Count d’Eu, <a href="#page_029">29</a><br /> - -Count of Tankerville, <a href="#page_029">29</a><br /> - -Court of Common Pleas, <a href="#page_108">108-109</a><br /> - -Court of King’s Bench, <a href="#page_108">108-109</a><br /> - -Coventry, Sir William, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Cradle Tower, <a href="#page_149">149</a><br /> - -Croke, Sir John, <a href="#page_174">174</a>, <a href="#page_188">188</a><br /> - -Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> - -Cromwell, Thomas, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Crown Jewels (<i>see</i> Jewels)<br /> - -Crusades, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -Crypt (St. John’s Chapel), <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Culloden (battle), <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Curfew bell, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a><br /> - -Czar’s Head Inn, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a>D’Arcy, Sir John, <a href="#page_029">29</a><br /> - -David Bruce (King of Scotland), <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -Deaths in Tower cells, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Derwentwater, Earl of, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Develin Tower, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Devereux Tower, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Devereux (Earl of Essex), <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Dighton, John, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Dudley, Lord Guildford, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br /> - -Dudley, John, <a href="#page_129">129</a><br /> - -Dungeon, great (White Tower), <a href="#page_119">119</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a>Edward I., <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a><br /> - -Edward II., <a href="#page_027">27-28</a><br /> - -Edward III., <a href="#page_028">28-30</a><br /> - -Edward IV., <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Edward V., <a href="#page_041">41</a><br /> - -Edward VI., <a href="#page_057">57-60</a><br /> - -Edward, Earl of Warwick, <a href="#page_044">44</a><br /> - -Edwards, Talbot, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> - -Eleanor, Queen, <a href="#page_025">25</a><br /> - -Eliot, Sir John, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_065">65-69</a>, <a href="#page_090">90</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a><br /> - -Elizabeth of York, <a href="#page_046">46</a><br /> - -Entrance to Tower, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Erkenwald, Bishop, <a href="#page_171">171</a><br /> - -Escapes from Tower, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_071">71</a>, <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_090">90-92</a>, <a href="#page_121">121-125</a>, <a href="#page_149">149-150</a><br /> - -Evyngar brass, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> - -Executions (Tower Green), <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Tower Hill), <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_164">164-168</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a></span><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="F" id="F"></a>Fair Maid of Perth</i>, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> - -Fawkes, Guy, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Felton, John, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Fenwick, Sir William, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> - -Fire, Great, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Fisher, Bishop, <a href="#page_094">94-96</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Flambard, Ralph, Bishop of Durham, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> - -Flint Tower, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Forrest, Miles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -<i>Fortunes of Nigel</i>, <a href="#page_127">127</a>, <a href="#page_128">128</a><br /> - -Froissart (quoted), <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a>Galleyman Tower, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Gaoler, Yeoman, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -Gardiner, S. R. (quoted), <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -Gaskarth, Dr., <a href="#page_192">192</a><br /> - -Gateway, postern, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -George I., <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -George III., <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Gerard, Father, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Gibbons, Grinling, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Gloucester, Duke of (<i>see</i> Richard III.)<br /> - -Gosse, Edmund (quoted), <a href="#page_057">57</a><br /> - -Green, J. R. (quoted), <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -Grey, Lady Jane, <a href="#page_060">60-64</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Grey, Lord Thomas, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Griffen, son of Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, <a href="#page_026">26</a><br /> - -Gundulf, Bishop of Rochester, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> - -Guns, old (Tower Green), <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a>Hales, Treasurer, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Hamilton, Duke of, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -Harvey, Lieut. Sir George, <a href="#page_102">102</a><br /> - -Hastings, Lord, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> - -Henry I., <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> - -Henry III., <a href="#page_024">24-26</a>, <a href="#page_094">94</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> - -Henry IV., <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Henry V., <a href="#page_035">35-37</a><br /> - -Henry VI., <a href="#page_037">37-40</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Henry VII., <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_044">44-46</a>, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -Henry VIII., <a href="#page_047">47-57</a><br /> - -Hertford, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Hewitt, Dr. John, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -Hexham, battle of, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -Hickes, Dr., <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a><br /> - -Highlanders shot, <a href="#page_084">84</a><br /> - -Holland, Earl of, <a href="#page_075">75</a><br /> - -Hotham, Sir John, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a><br /> - -Howard, Lady Frances, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -Howard, Queen Katherine, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> - -Howard, Thomas, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="I-i" id="I-i"></a>Inglesant, John</i>, <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> - -Inscriptions on walls, <a href="#page_128">128-130</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Isabella, Queen of Edward II., <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -Isabella of Valois, Queen of Richard II., <a href="#page_033">33</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a>James I., <a href="#page_070">70-72</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -James II., <a href="#page_081">81-82</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -James I. of Scotland, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> - -Jeffreys, Judge, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Jewels, Crown, <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Jews imprisoned, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Joan of the Tower, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -John, King, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -John II., King of France, <a href="#page_029">29</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a>Keep, the (<i>see</i> White Tower)<br /> - -Ken, Bishop, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> - -Kenmure, Lord, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Ketch, Jack, <a href="#page_082">82</a><br /> - -Kettlewell, the Non-juror, <a href="#page_200">200</a><br /> - -King’s House, <a href="#page_121">121</a><br /> - -King’s Justiciars, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Knighthood, order of, conferred in St. John’s Chapel, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a><br /> - -Knyvett, Lieutenant, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a>Lancaster, Henry of (<i>see</i> Henry IV.)<br /> - -Lansdowne, Earl of, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Lanthorn Tower, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> - -Lambert, Colonel, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> - -Laud, Archbishop, <a href="#page_005">5</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br /> - -Layfield, Edward, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> - -<i>Legend of Montrose</i>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Legge’s Mount, <a href="#page_135">135</a><br /> - -Leiburn, Sir Roger de, <a href="#page_176">176</a><br /> - -Lennox, Countess of, <a href="#page_066">66</a><br /> - -Lion Gate, and Tower, <a href="#page_088">88</a><br /> - -Lisle, Viscount, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> - -“Little Ease,” <a href="#page_118">118</a><br /> - -Lollards, the, <a href="#page_035">35</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a><br /> - -London Tavern (Fenchurch Street), <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> - -London Wall,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> - -Longchamp, Chancellor, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -Louis VIII. of France, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> - -Lovat, Lord, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> - -Love, Christopher, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a>Macguire, Lord, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> - -MacMahon, Colonel, <a href="#page_090">90</a><br /> - -Mandeville, Geoffrey de, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Margaret, Queen of Henry VI., <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -Martin Tower, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> - -Mary, Queen, <a href="#page_060">60-65</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Mason, Dr. A. J., <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Menagerie, Tower, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_089">89</a><br /> - -Middle Tower, <a href="#page_089">89-91</a><br /> - -Mint, the Royal, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Mission College of Allhallows Barking, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Mitre Tavern (Fenchurch Street), <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> - -Moat, the, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_088">88</a>, <a href="#page_090">90-92</a><br /> - -Models of the Tower, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -Modernisation of the Tower, <a href="#page_015">15-16</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a><br /> - -Monk, General, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> - -Monmouth, Duke of, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> - -More, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Mortimer, Lord, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a>Nithsdale, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_121">121-125</a><br /> - -Norman Chapel (<i>see</i> St. John’s Chapel)<br /> - -Northumberland, Duke of, John Dudley, <a href="#page_060">60</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a>Oates, Titus, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -O’Connor, Arthur, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -Oldcastle, Sir John, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> - -Oratory, <a href="#page_017">17</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Organ (Allhallows Barking), <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> - -Otway, Thomas, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -Overbury, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -Owen, Sir John, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a>Palace, royal, in Tower, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Parish dinners, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a><br /> - -Parr, Samuel, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Passages, underground, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> - -Penn, William, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_158">158</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a><br /> - -Pepys, Samuel (quoted), <a href="#page_077">77</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_079">79</a>, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_097">97</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a>, <a href="#page_189">189</a><br /> - -Pepys, Samuel, in Tower, <a href="#page_080">80</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Percy, Henry, Earl of Northumberland, <a href="#page_100">100</a><br /> - -Perrot, Deputy, <a href="#page_068">68</a><br /> - -Peter the Great, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -<i>Peveril of the Peak</i>, <a href="#page_004">4-6</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> - -“Pilgrimage of Grace,” <a href="#page_051">51</a><br /> - -Plague years, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> - -Popish plot, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Portcullis (Bloody Tower), <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Prince of Wales, H.R.H. the, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> - -Prince Consort, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Princes in the Tower (Edward V. and his brother), <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a><br /> - -Privy Garden, <a href="#page_151">151</a><br /> - -Prothero, Mr. (quoted), <a href="#page_096">96</a><br /> - -Prynne, <a href="#page_074">74</a><br /> - -Pulpit, Jacobean, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> - -<br /> -“<a name="Q" id="Q"></a>Queen Elizabeth’s Walk,” <a href="#page_064">64</a><br /> - -Queen’s Garden, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a>Rack, the, <a href="#page_117">117</a><br /> - -Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Raleigh, Lady, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> - -“Raleigh’s Cell,” <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Registers, parish (Allhallows Barking), <a href="#page_193">193-199</a><br /> - -Restoration, the, <a href="#page_078">78</a><br /> - -Richard I., <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> - -Richard II., <a href="#page_030">30-34</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a><br /> - -Richard III., <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_041">41</a>, <a href="#page_042">42-44</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_114">114-116</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a><br /> - -Richard de Lucy, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Rising, Jacobite (1745), <a href="#page_107">107</a><br /> - -Robinson, Dr. A. W., <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> - -Rochester, Earl of, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Rochford, Lady, <a href="#page_054">54</a><br /> - -Roman Catholic prisoners, <a href="#page_067">67</a><br /> - -Roman London, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Roman remains,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a><br /> - -Ros, Lord de, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Russell, William, Lord, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Rye House Plot, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a>St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East, <a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -St. Ethelburga (Abbess of Barking), <a href="#page_171">171</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a><br /> - -St. John’s Chapel (White Tower), <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -St. Olave’s (Hart Street), <a href="#page_160">160</a>, <a href="#page_161">161</a><br /> - -St. Peter ad Vincula, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_096">96</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_131">131-133</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a><br /> - -St. Thomas’s Tower, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Salisbury, Countess of, Margaret Pole, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a><br /> - -Salt Tower, <a href="#page_146">146</a><br /> - -Say, Lord, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> - -Scaffold, site of, Tower Hill, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> - -Scott, Sir Walter, references to, <a href="#page_001">1</a>, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> - -Scottish prisoners, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Seething Lane, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Seymour, Jane, Queen, <a href="#page_050">50</a><br /> - -Seymour, Baron Thomas, <a href="#page_058">58</a><br /> - -Seymour, William, <a href="#page_071">71</a><br /> - -Shakespeare, William, references to, <a href="#page_001">1</a>, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_007">7</a>, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_009">9</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_038">38</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Sidney, Algernon, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Simnel, Lambert, <a href="#page_044">44</a><br /> - -Slingsley, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_077">77</a><br /> - -Smithfield, <a href="#page_036">36</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_056">56</a><br /> - -Snayth, George, <a href="#page_185">185</a><br /> - -Somerset, Protector, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Somerset, Robert Carr, Earl of, <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -Spenser, Edmund, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Stafford, William, Lord, <a href="#page_081">81</a><br /> - -Stanley, Sir William, <a href="#page_045">45</a><br /> - -Stapledon, Walter, Bishop of Exeter, <a href="#page_028">28</a><br /> - -State apartments, <a href="#page_112">112</a><br /> - -Stephen, King, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> - -Stocks, public, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> - -Strafford, Earl of, Thomas Wentworth, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> - -Stuart, Lady Arabella, <a href="#page_070">70</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> - -Sudbury, Simon of, <a href="#page_031">31</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a>, <a href="#page_111">111</a><br /> - -Suffolk, Earl of, Edmund de la Pole, <a href="#page_048">48</a><br /> - -Suicides in the Tower, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_068">68</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a><br /> - -Surrey, Earl of, Henry Howard, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a><br /> - -Syndercombe, Miles, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a>Talbot, Sir Gilbert, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> - -Theodore, Archbishop, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br /> - -Thomson, James, <a href="#page_159">159</a><br /> - -Thynne, William, <a href="#page_201">201</a><br /> - -Tiptoft, John, <a href="#page_174">174</a><br /> - -Torture in Tower dungeons, <a href="#page_042">42</a>, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_146">146-149</a><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">instruments of, <a href="#page_113">113</a></span><br /> - -Tower Dock, <a href="#page_103">103</a><br /> - -Tower Green, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_049">49</a>, <a href="#page_050">50</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_053">53</a>, <a href="#page_054">54</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_120">120-121</a><br /> - -Tower Hill, <a href="#page_020">20</a>, <a href="#page_033">33</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>, <a href="#page_045">45</a>, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_047">47</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_065">65</a>, <a href="#page_067">67</a>, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_073">73</a>, <a href="#page_074">74</a>, <a href="#page_075">75</a>, <a href="#page_076">76</a>, <a href="#page_078">78</a>, <a href="#page_081">81</a>, <a href="#page_082">82</a>, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_087">87</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_153">153-159</a>, <a href="#page_162">162-168</a><br /> - -Tower Hill, Little, <a href="#page_095">95</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Tower of London: foundation of, <a href="#page_021">21</a>;<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beginning of its history, <a href="#page_021">21</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first prisoner, <a href="#page_022">22</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">becomes Royal Palace, <a href="#page_023">23</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">besieged, <a href="#page_024">24</a>, <a href="#page_040">40</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Edward III. finds it ill guarded, <a href="#page_029">29</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mobbed in Richard II.’s reign, <a href="#page_032">32</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oldest picture of, <a href="#page_037">37</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attacked by Cade, <a href="#page_038">38</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cannon used for first time against, <a href="#page_040">40</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">its darkest days, <a href="#page_040">40-43</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">improved by Edward IV., <a href="#page_040">40</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prominence in Tudor times, <a href="#page_044">44</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">festivities at, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_056">56</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">becomes notorious as State prison, <a href="#page_047">47</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">improvements in Henry VIII.’s reign, <a href="#page_047">47-48</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fires its guns upon City, <a href="#page_048">48</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attack on (Wyatt rebellion), <a href="#page_062">62</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">seized in reign of Charles I.,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> <a href="#page_073">73</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in keeping of Parliament during Civil War, <a href="#page_075">75</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in danger during Great Fire, <a href="#page_080">80</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jacobite plot to seize, <a href="#page_084">84</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fire in, <a href="#page_085">85</a>;</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fenian outrage in, <a href="#page_086">86</a></span><br /> - -Tower Street, Great, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Towton Heath, battle of, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -Traitor’s Gate, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_064">64</a>, <a href="#page_098">98</a><br /> - -Trevelyan, G. M. (quoted), <a href="#page_069">69</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> - -Trinity House, <a href="#page_162">162-164</a><br /> - -Trinity Square, Tower Hill, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> - -Tudenham, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -Turner, Mrs., <a href="#page_104">104</a><br /> - -Tyler, Wat, <a href="#page_030">30</a>, <a href="#page_032">32</a><br /> - -Tyrrell, Sir James, <a href="#page_046">46</a>, <a href="#page_101">101</a><br /> - -Tyrrell, Sir William, <a href="#page_040">40</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a>United Irishmen, <a href="#page_085">85</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="V-i" id="V-i"></a>Vane, Sir Harry, <a href="#page_078">78</a><br /> - -Victoria, Queen, <a href="#page_085">85</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Villiers, George, Duke of Buckingham, <a href="#page_080">80</a><br /> - -Virby, Thomas, <a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a><br /> - -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a>Waad, Sir William, <a href="#page_102">102</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -Wakefield Tower, <a href="#page_039">39</a>, <a href="#page_106">106-108</a><br /> - -Wallace, William, <a href="#page_027">27</a><br /> - -Walpole, Sir Robert, <a href="#page_083">83</a><br /> - -Walsingham, Sir Francis, <a href="#page_160">160</a><br /> - -Walworth, Mayor, <a href="#page_031">31</a><br /> - -Warbeck, Perkin, <a href="#page_045">45</a><br /> - -Warders’ Parlour, <a href="#page_092">92</a><br /> - -Warders, Yeomen, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> - -Wars of the Roses, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -Warwick, the King-Maker, <a href="#page_039">39</a><br /> - -<i>Waverley</i>, <a href="#page_084">84</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> - -Welsh prisoners, <a href="#page_027">27</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a><br /> - -Wharf, <a href="#page_025">25</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a><br /> - -White Tower, <a href="#page_012">12</a>, <a href="#page_016">16</a>, <a href="#page_022">22</a>, <a href="#page_034">34</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a>, <a href="#page_048">48</a>, <a href="#page_086">86</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109-120</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a><br /> - -William the Conqueror, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> - -William and Mary, <a href="#page_082">82-83</a><br /> - -William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, <a href="#page_038">38</a><br /> - -Wilton, Lord Grey de, <a href="#page_072">72</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> - -Worcester, battle of, <a href="#page_076">76</a><br /> - -Wren, Sir Christopher, <a href="#page_083">83</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> - -Wriothesley, Chancellor, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> - -Wyatt rebellion, <a href="#page_062">62</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> - -Wyatt, Sir Henry, <a href="#page_042">42-44</a><br /> - -Wycliffe’s followers imprisoned, <a href="#page_035">35</a><br /> - -Wyndham, Sir John, <a href="#page_046">46</a><br /> - -<br /> -<i><a name="Y" id="Y"></a>Yeomen of the Guard</i> (Savoy opera), <a href="#page_010">10</a>, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> - -Yeomen of the Guard, <a href="#page_093">93</a><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c"> -THE END<br /> -<br /> -<i>Printed by</i> <span class="smcap">R. & R. Clark, Limited</span>, <i>Edinburgh</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> </p> - -<p><a name="ill_023" id="ill_023"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<span class="caption">THE TOWER OF LONDON -</span> -<br /> -<a href="images/ill_028_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/ill_028_sml.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Image unavailable: THE TOWER OF LONDON - -ACCOMPANYING “THE TOWER OF LONDON,” PAINTED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I., -DESCRIBED BY ARTHUR POYSER" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">ACCOMPANYING “THE TOWER OF LONDON,”<br /> PAINTED BY JOHN FULLEYLOVE, R.I., -DESCRIBED BY ARTHUR POYSER</span> -</div> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/back.jpg" alt="[Image of the back of the book -unavailable.]" /> -</p> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Tower of London, by Arthur Poyser - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOWER OF LONDON *** - -***** This file should be named 55504-h.htm or 55504-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/5/0/55504/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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