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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b50d98 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #55844 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55844) diff --git a/old/55844-0.txt b/old/55844-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index a4f0f61..0000000 --- a/old/55844-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7002 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Military Service and Adventures in the Far -East: Vol. 1 (of 2), by Daniel Henry MacKinnon - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Military Service and Adventures in the Far East: Vol. 1 (of 2) - Including Sketches of the Campaigns Against the Afghans - in 1839, and the Sikhs in 1845-6. - -Author: Daniel Henry MacKinnon - -Release Date: October 29, 2017 [EBook #55844] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MILITARY SERVICE IN FAR EAST, VOL 1 *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Graeme Mackreth and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - - MILITARY SERVICE - AND - ADVENTURES IN THE FAR EAST: - INCLUDING - SKETCHES OF THE CAMPAIGNS - AGAINST THE AFGHANS IN 1839, - AND THE SIKHS IN 1845-6. - - BY A CAVALRY OFFICER. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. I. - - LONDON: - CHARLES OLLIER, - SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND. - 1847. - - -[Illustration: - - MAP - of the - Late Field of Operations - on the - SUTLEJ.] - - - - - TO - - SIR HENRY LUSHINGTON, BART. - - I INSCRIBE THESE VOLUMES, - - BY HIS PERMISSION, - - AS A TRIBUTE OF AFFECTIONATE RESPECT. - - -I shall not venture, in accordance with modern usage, to compose -an elaborate panegyric and exhaust the epithets of flattery in my -Dedication. - -Such an essay would be out of my power, and far beneath Sir Henry's -acceptance. - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -CONTENTS OF VOL. I. - - - CHAPTER I. - - Arrival in India, and march to the north-western provinces p. 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - Visit to the Himalayah mountains 33 - - - CHAPTER III. - - Matters relating to the Afghans--March through Delhi to - Ferozepore--Runjeet's interview--March towards Buhawulpore 49 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - Arrival at Buhawulpore--Sir Henry Fane's interview with - the Khan--Progress to Scinde across the Indus 78 - - - CHAPTER V. - - Advance from Shikarpore--Passage through the Bolan Pass - into Afghanistan--Advance from Quetta 98 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - Kandahar--Murder of Lieut. Inverarity--The army concentrated--Advance - by the valley of the Turnuk upon Ghuzni 130 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - Storm and capture of Ghuzni--Advance to meet Dost Mahomed--His - army desert him, and he flies towards the Hindoo Koosh 159 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Arrival at Caubul--Death of Colonel Arnold--Return of the - expedition in pursuit of Dost Mahomed--The Russian - bugbear--Fall of Khelat 184 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - The army at Caubul broken up--March of Sir John Keane's - escort by Jellalabad, and through the Khyber Pass, to - Peshawur 211 - - - CHAPTER X. - - Peshawur--Skirmishes with the Khyberees across the - Indus--Manikyala--The passage of the Jhelum 244 - - - CHAPTER XI. - - Cross the Chenab and Ravee--Arrive at Lahore--Lahore--Ceremonial - visits--Review of the Sikh army--Recross - the Sutlej--March to cantonments 272 - - - - -MILITARY SERVICE - -IN THE FAR EAST. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -ARRIVAL IN INDIA, AND MARCH TO THE NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES. - - -Any one who has coasted the Andamans will bear witness to the beauty -of those Islands, of which, at the time I visited them, marvellous -tales were related. The predilection of the inhabitants of those -realms for their white brethren, when shipwrecked on these shores, was -said to have been evinced in a manner singularly contrasted to other -philanthropists, for they actually devoured them. It has moreover been -stated, that the biped islanders were not the only philanthropists -dwelling in these alluring scenes, but that the woods swarmed with a -variety of wild beasts, who were also epicures in human flesh. It is, -indeed, wonderful that man, being so great a luxury, should continue to -exist in such regions. Unfortunately, we were unable to put any reports -to the test, not having set foot ashore. - -The sun, which had been shining brilliantly all the morning over these -green isles, became obscured in the afternoon, when a breeze springing -up soon caused a musical ripple of the waters, and wafted us in four -days to the Sandheads; where, receiving our pilot on board, we coasted -the low sandy ridge of Saugar, and anchored off Kedgeree, there to -await the steamer which was to tow us up the Hoogly to the capital. - -No sooner was our anchor dropped, than the river suddenly swarmed -with boats full of the wildest-looking savages, in a perfect state of -nature, saving a dingy clout bound about their waists. The hair hung -like horses' tails over the shoulders of some; others had gathered up -and twisted the sable mass into a knot on the top of their heads, which -led us into considerable doubt as to the gender of the individuals, -this being the generally approved method of arranging the hair amongst -the ladies of our northern climes. But we did injustice, in this -instance, to the more gentle and better sex, who in this region are -as superior in shape and feature to the males, as an English woman -is to every other on the face of the earth! Nevertheless, these dusky -anatomies possessed singularly Stentorian lungs, as we experienced when -they came whooping and jabbering alongside. - -Our worthy mate, being thoroughly versed in savage intercourse, loudly -exclaimed, "Ho! you d--d Dinghee Wallahs! nickal jao there, will you? -Quartermaster, hand up a bit of pork, heave it into that boat astern, -and shove off those shoals at the gangway." - -The sovereign remedy, a bit of pork, was carefully distributed among -the boats, and relieved us of their presence; for when the savoury -morsel alighted, they cast off, eyeing us with as much sorrowful -disgust as the bit of unclean animal, which was taken up by one of the -boatmen between two sticks, thrown overboard, and the polluted spot -well scoured with the mud and water of the brown Hoogly. - -In the afternoon, I went ashore, at Kedgeree, with a party of officers, -to shoot. We wandered in various directions over the marshy rice -fields, and through the low jungle, in quest of game: most of us loaded -one barrel with small shot, and the other with ball, being uncertain as -to the probability of meeting with a tiger or a snipe in those unknown -regions; but fortune having conceded neither, we returned at nightfall -to the appointed rendezvous for re-embarking, and found the ship's -boats had returned on board: our two linguists had gone with them. As -it was getting pitch dark, our prospects of a comfortable night's rest -were becoming correspondingly gloomy. In these straits, we wandered -along the banks to a village, where, endeavouring to make the natives -aware of our wants by signs, they immediately brought us some fruits, -making countersigns for money; that and food being pretty nearly the -sum total of their worldly concernments. At this juncture, one of our -party returned from a successful forage, having found a tent occupied -by a European. - -We hastened readily to the canvas abode, and our deliverer having -treated us to a few tumblers of cold water, and explained our wishes to -the natives, in a few minutes we each mounted our savage, and rode him -over the mud and water to a canoe moored near the bank. - -An hour's hard rowing, enlivened, at times, by the wild and discordant -singing, or rather yelling, of our swarthy boatmen, brought us once -more alongside the ship, anything but pleased with our first excursion -on the shores of Hindostan. - -I am persuaded that the phosphorescent appearance which we often -observe on the ocean, must hold some invisible and fiery influence -over the minds of those whose business for a time is on the great -waters. To this cause I venture to attribute the strong matrimonial -epidemic which broke out on board our trusty ship, many marriages being -meditated, and some celebrated by certain of my fellow-passengers. -The gaiety which ought to be consequent on weddings was not, at -first, very perceptible; but this, I take it, was mainly attributable -to the nautical stomach-pump, which took severe effect during the -first fortnight, principally, (I lament to say,) on the fair sex. The -operations of this fearful tormentor at length ceased. Had the immortal -Lawrence Sterne but enjoyed the advantages of a voyage to India, what -a mighty field would have been thrown open for the indulgence of his -favourite reflections to the edification of his readers and advancement -of natural philosophy. But he and his class have long passed from among -us, and I must leave to such as deem themselves competent to the task, -the elucidation of a theory, (holding doubtless the most absolute -influence over the intricate human system,) a subject far too abstruse -for this feeble pen. - -Having spent two days at anchor off Kedgeree, on the third morning we -joyfully descried a dark little steamer, which, though more resembling -a demon than a saint, proved our deliverer from the shoals of the muddy -Hoogly. - -The slimy banks of the river, fringed at a short distance from the -water with stunted jungle, gradually gave place to a more civilized -appearance as we advanced up the stream; and on rounding Garden Reach, -the view was eminently beautiful. The neat villas of the Calcutta -merchants, now partially hidden amongst their gardens and shrubberies, -and now bursting full upon the view--the river, with the ceaseless stir -of business skimming across its waters, and the distant prospect of the -city of palaces, flanked by a forest of bare and taper masts, presented -altogether a picture of exciting interest, especially to one about to -set foot for the first time in a new country, and, to him, almost a new -world. - -We came to anchor, on the third morning after quitting Kedgeree, -under the walls of Fort William, and found H.M.'s third Dragoons -encamped on the glacis. About four in the afternoon, the heat having -considerably abated, we disembarked, and marched into the Fort, where -quarters had been provided for our men, though none for the officers, -as the brigade-major informed us, at the same time stating, that as -a difference of opinion existed on that subject between himself and -the fort-major, we must wait until he (of the Queen's) had craftily -overcome him (of the Company's), and induced the latter individual to -house us. - -There is an old proverb about a man between two stools being likely to -come to the ground, which was fully illustrated in our case, for, both -of our supports for a night's rest in Fort William having given way, we -came to the earth, though fortunately in the tents of the 3rd Dragoons, -immediately under the walls of the fort, where our fall was kindly -broken by cloaks spread on the ground to receive us. - -I was composing myself to sleep as comfortably as circumstances would -permit, when suddenly a volley of screams, as though proceeding from -the lungs of ten thousand demons, caused me to start on my feet, -supposing the camp to have been invaded by the infernal regions. My -host, lying in the opposite recess of the tent, being a man of some -days' experience, begged me not to disturb myself, as it was only the -jackals. "Only the jackals!" but they are pretty nearly enough to -murder sleep, I thought, as I laid myself down to await the cessation -of their intolerable howls. - -Silence at length ensued, and I was just falling asleep, when a -low gurgling noise arose close to my ears, and continued with the -most monotonous regularity: "Good Heaven!" I cried, after listening -intently for a few minutes, "that must come from the diabolical -bandicoots, of which I have often heard from old Indians." I drew my -sword, and awaited their advance in a violent perspiration, for I have -an insuperable abhorrence to the whole rat tribe; but they had no -intention of coming to close quarters. No, their cursed pipes sounded -the advance, unheeded by the main body. My enemies, nevertheless, -seemed to be mustering; for the gurgle was taken up by a reinforcement -from the opposite side of the tent, interrupted occasionally by a low, -muttering sound: - - "Jam jam efficaci do manus scientiæ. - -"I submit; it is impossible to sleep through this interminable -persecution, and a man's days in this climate must be necessarily -short without rest!" Thus I exclaimed, as, jumping up, I threw my -cloak aside, and paced the tent in a fever, saluted incessantly by the -unearthly gurgle. - -My friend lay on the opposite side, sleeping as calmly as if there were -no such things in the world to torture us as jackals or bandicoots. - -The morning was just breaking, and I stepped out of the tent, in hope -of being taken for a ghost by the jackals, and thus retaliating by -fright on a portion of my enemies--when, lo! the veil of mystery was -withdrawn, and there sat two Hindoos smoking the pipe of the country, -commonly known by the name of hubble-bubble, which noisy instrument I -had mistaken all night for the bandicoots. - -This was too absurd. I burst into a fit of laughter, which awakened -my friend, who hastily joined me, when I related my grievance. Having -silenced the smokers, I soon enjoyed the rest I had almost despaired of -attaining. - -The following day, having stated our houseless condition to Sir -Willoughby Cotton, commanding the division, we were, by his order, -allotted quarters in the Fort, where the bugs and mosquitoes were as -unwelcome visitants as the jackals and hubble-bubbles of the preceding -night. - -Having procured some native servants, deposited our baggage in the -barracks, and bought large cane bedsteads with mosquito curtains, -we began to consider ourselves in clover, though our ignorance of -Hindustani left us completely at the mercy of the natives, my sirdar -(valet) being not of the most intelligent order. At night, when he had -succeeded in clearing my bed of mosquitoes, and carefully arranged the -curtains, I signed to him to take away the light. He immediately left -the room, but took not the candle. "Sirdar!" He immediately re-entered. -I telegraphed him with much energy, pointing to the candle and thence -to the door. He shook his head and looked bewildered. This was not to -be endured; I darted out of bed to extinguish the light; and a colony -of mosquitoes, who had been awaiting this opportunity, immediately -established themselves inside, and conversed with me during the night. - -Notwithstanding our numerous tormentors, the season of the year at -which we landed was the coolest and most salubrious of any--that -is, the mornings were coldest, and the mid-day heat was also at its -minimum; but even a December sun, at noon, was not to be encountered -with impunity. - -I sallied forth in one of those coffin-like conveyances termed -palanquins, to visit the city, which is about a mile distant from the -fort, and extends along the banks of the river. Enormous store-houses -and merchants' offices skirt the river; but the interior of the city, -and especially that portion adjacent to the plain around Fort William -contains several fine public buildings and extensive private mansions. -The streets and squares are wide and handsome; but the bazaars and -the portion of the town tenanted by natives are wretchedly narrow and -confined, and usually thronged nearly to suffocation; for the natives -love to huddle together in contradistinction to the whites, who seem -even on this broiling and dreary side of the world to preserve that -cold and forbidding demeanour which distinguishes the English in -particular from other nations of the globe. - -I believe the case was materially different a few years ago; but we -found cause to remark, during our fortnight's sojourn in Calcutta, -that we had experienced less hospitality and more incivility than in -any other city of the world, not excepting even New York. The then -revolution in the social system of the East has been attributed to the -recent establishment of hotels in the city, but this appears more of a -subterfuge than a palliation. The absence of the governor-general and -commander-in-chief, who were at that time in the upper provinces, had -drained Calcutta of the best of its population, as we were informed -and afterwards experienced; and we therefore saw the place under -unfavourable circumstances. - -After a comfortless delay of a fortnight, in this city of contrasted -luxury and indigence, we gladly received the route to march for our -destination in the north-western provinces. - -Having provided ourselves with tents, and bullock hackeries for the -conveyance of them and our baggage, we left Calcutta about sunrise on -the 4th January, and marched along the banks of the river, through -avenues of cocoa-nut and palm trees, to our first encampment, a -distance of about ten miles. - -Our party mustered nearly five hundred strong, and included detachments -for all of her Majesty's regiments in the upper provinces. Both -officers and privates were, almost to a man, commencing their first -march in India, or, to use an Indian expression, "griffins;" and -in consequence many forebodings had been uttered, in Calcutta, of -depredations, blunders, and miseries we were to encounter: "mais il est -plus facile d'être sage pour les autres, que de l'être pour soi-même," -saith Rochefoucauld, and with truth, in the present instance, for we -encountered few of the ills presaged by the Indian prophets, who had -probably drawn their conclusions from sad experience. - -The second morning we marched in the dark, and reached the river Hoogly -about daylight. The transit occupied the greater portion of the day, -having to unload the beasts of burden and convey the men and baggage -in boats. The most interesting and novel sight to us was that of the -huge elephants swimming across this broad and rapid river, with the -mahout, or driver, standing or sitting on their necks. Immediately the -elephant gets beyond his depth, his whole body and head disappear, and -nothing is seen to mark his locale, save the head and shoulders of the -mahout. The obedient monster performs the submarine passage with an -occasional jerk of the head and trunk out of water, to take breath and -see where he is going, although in the latter instance he is generally -subservient to his driver. - -Some accidents were nearly occurring from the elephants having been -swept down by the current among the boats in which the troops were -crossing, but the mahouts piloted their charges dexterously through the -fleet, without a single collision. - -After crossing the Hoogly, we marched, for the first few days, through -a well cultivated country, but afterwards struck into a newly made -road, lying amid thick low jungle, until we reached the Rajmahal -hills, which in some places are thickly and prettily wooded, whilst -the intervening plains and valleys diversify the scene with their -irregular patches of Indian corn, sugar cane, and barley fields. The -Rajmahal hills abound with bears, tigers, wild hog, and elephants; but -all chance of sport in wild beast hunting was denied us; we had no -shikar wallahs, or sporting elephants among our party; for in India -it is quite as necessary--nay, more so--that the elephant should be -a sporting character as the rider, for the uninitiated usually dread -the sight of a wild beast, and at the critical moment of encounter -the unhappy sportsman often finds himself involuntarily taking to an -ignominious flight. It is impossible to beat the heavy coverts of this -part of India, with a moderate chance of success, except on elephants. -Our principal amusement during the whole march consisted in partridge -and snipe shooting, and even these were exceedingly scarce in the -neighbourhood of our camp; but this was on account of the distance we -generally kept from the Ganges, the banks of which are well supplied -with game. In fact, throughout India, game is rarely found anywhere -save in the vicinity of rivers, theels, or inundated ground. - -Our friends, the jackals, continued their nightly lamentations, -varied occasionally by the deep bass of a bear, or hyæna's eccentric -cry; but I heard of only one actual encounter between man and beast -in the Rajmahals, which was between an infantry soldier and a bear, -beside the stump of an old tree, which both approached, unconscious -of each other's presence, to use as a seat. Having eyed one another -with feelings of mutual aversion, they executed a chassée-croisée, -and parted. When a bear is desirous of being on intimate terms with -a man, he rears himself on his hind legs, and advances to embrace, -but the cruel sportsman marks, with his keen eye, a white mark on the -affectionate creature's breast, and repays the advance by a bullet -sent through this vital spot--that is, if his hand be steady enough to -execute the act of ingratitude. - -On emerging from the hills, we marched over an almost uninterrupted -plain, which preserves the same smooth features almost to the very foot -of the Himalayahs. - -After an uninteresting and monotonous march of four hundred miles, -which occupied about six weeks, always halting on Sundays, the first -military station we reached was the sacred city of Benares. Here we -crossed the Ganges, above whose muddy waters we descried the minarets -of the holy places towering in the cloudless sky, and, from their -lofty relief, rendering more apparent the insignificance of the low mud -and brick dwelling-places clustered around their bases. - -The cantonments lie about four miles from the city, laid out with -strict military precision: most of the officers' bungalows thatched -with dry grass, standing in the midst of their square compounds, -enclosed by a high mud wall. - -Even the native soldiers are different looking beings from their -unenlisted brethren, and stalk along with the conscious importance of -improved condition. - -The roads, which are made of concha,[1] are broad and excellent, and -everything wears an air of starch discipline. - -Near the cantonment lived a Madras rajah, who, having been deprived of -his power and estates in that presidency, had been transplanted here -and pensioned by government. With the customary adulation of the East, -he readily licks the hands of his oppressors, apes English manners, and -courts English society. - -I accompanied a brother officer, who had been previously acquainted -with him, to the rajah's mansion, which was a comfortable residence, -without any attempt at magnificence. The room into which we were -ushered was adorned with pictures representing the victories of -Wellington, Nelson, and Napoleon. After keeping us some time -waiting, his highness at length made his appearance. He was a tall, -sallow-complexioned man, attired in a white frock coat, black silk -handkerchief, brown silk pajamas,[2] and red morocco slippers. -Supposing the principal means of entertaining Englishmen to be the -satisfying of their appetites, he lost not a minute in introducing -us to the supper-table, where he begged us to be seated, setting the -example himself--at least, if his might be termed an example, for he -perched himself most uncomfortably on the extreme edge of a large -arm-chair, and with the assistance of its arms and his own, managed to -preserve a very precarious equilibrium. - -As it is very difficult for a person to feel at ease when he perceives -that his companion is not, I hoped every instant to see him glide from -the chair, and squat on the floor, in the position natural to his -countrymen, but he did not, in this instance, gratify us or himself. - -Supper being over, we adjourned to an inner room, where, to my -surprise, we were presented to his wife and daughters. The former -was about thirty years of age, glittering with jewels, and retaining -visible proofs of having been a beauty in her day. Her eldest daughter, -about thirteen years of age, (advanced womanhood in India,) was the -most perfect dark beauty I have ever seen: her figure was slight, yet -round and elegant--as are those of most Indian women of high caste; an -invidious veil covered the greater portion of her glossy hair, but her -clear olive complexion, and lustrous black eyes--too dazzling to be -looked on with impunity--were a _chef-d'oeuvre_ of Nature. Never, till -that night, did I bitterly repent my neglect of the Hindustani tongue. - -The rajah told us that he fully intended to pass the evening of his -days in England, where his beautiful daughter, with her ample dowry, -will probably become the victim of some expert adventurer. - -Having halted two days at Benares, we proceeded through as -uninteresting a country as before, passing, occasionally, a mud town -or village, with the usual appendages of a small grove of trees and a -few square patches of cultivation round the wells, whilst two or three -hundred natives, huddled together, and squatted like so many vultures -on the walls and by the road-side, watched our onward progress, and -chattered their rapid jargon. - -Ten marches from Benares we again crossed the Ganges where it unites -its polluting waters with those of the rocky and clear Jumna, and -entered the cantonments of Allahabad. The fort commands a view of the -two rivers as they flow onwards to their junction, immediately under -its walls; but excepting these waters, the eye wanders over a continued -parched and arid plain, save where a small grove of trees presents -occasionally a relieving object. - -The festival of the Mohurrem was about to take place as we quitted -Allahabad. The scenes of riot and debauchery annually consequent on -this as well as other festivals, have entailed a lasting disgrace -on the government of India, which not only tolerates, but actually -encourages them. Nor has it scrupled to convert the superstition of -the deluded natives into a substantial accession to the revenues of -the country. Those who may be affected with any scruples on this -subject, possibly reconcile the matter to their conscience by the -disbursement of a few rupees annually for the maintenance of a handful -of missionaries to convert the people of India to Christianity; but -it will require something more than the present feeble efforts to -accomplish that object, and possibly a little more sincerity in the -authors of such an endeavour. In these modern days of toleration, it -will hardly answer to follow the policy of the Emperor Julian towards -the early Christians, and apply it to the Mussulman or Hindoo--as, when -the emperor says, "I show myself the true friend of the Galileans. -Their admirable law has promised the kingdom of heaven to the poor, -and they will advance with more diligence and virtue in the paths of -salvation when they are relieved, by my assistance, from the load of -temporal possessions."[3] - -The dust on the road between Allahabad and Cawnpore passeth all -understanding. The head of our column got along tolerably well, not -sinking much above their knees in the impalpable soil; but the centre -and rear staggered blindly onward, and not unfrequently downward, -through the clouds raised by their predecessors, till they reached more -substantial ground; others jostled against mud walls and trees, trod -on their neighbour's toes, or, wandering from their comrades, groped -their way out of the dense atmosphere, and only discovered the locality -of the column by the glimpse of a few miller-like objects preceding the -cloud. - -Ten marches from Allahabad, over roads of the above description, and -through a country which, being hid by a dusty screen, I seldom saw, and -cannot therefore describe, brought us into the cantonments of Cawnpore, -which appear to rise like a city in the desert. Not a tree was to be -seen, and scarce a vestige of animal or vegetable life was presented -to our view, as the morning broke upon us crossing the arid and almost -trackless plain near Cawnpore. At length, when the sun arose, a dim -line of conical objects was descried through the lurid atmosphere, and, -at the same time, the roar of some half-dozen pieces of cannon, at -practice on the plain, announced the vicinity of cantonments. - -Here the men of the detachments were placed in barracks, and the -officers' tents pitched in a compound, where the sun blazed fiercely -enough to roast a live lobster in his shell, though, from our species -of that animal, nothing was elicited beyond moisture and murmuring. - -Three days having been passed in this eligible situation, I was -despatched up the country with my own detachment and sundry others for -regiments in the north-western provinces, an escort of a havildar[4] -and twelve Sepoys having been provided to _take charge_ of us, which -trust they faithfully performed. - -At this time, a dreadful famine was prevalent in the districts through -which we passed, which was fearfully evidenced by the appalling sights -we daily witnessed on the march. Living skeletons crowded round us -in thousands, stretching forth their meagre hands and supplicating -relief with countenances which beggared description. Scarcely a mile of -ground was passed without seeing some wretched creature breathing his -last by the road-side, or some, whose sufferings ended, were affording -a scanty meal to the famished Pariah dogs. All caste and heathenish -scruples were overcome by the craving for food, and the poor creatures -tore each other in the avidity with which they scrambled for bones or -offal thrown to them by the soldiers. The myriads which thronged our -camp became a crying nuisance; and the dictates of humanity were so far -repressed by the calls of duty and necessity, that I was compelled to -encircle our small encampment with a chain of sentries to exclude them, -and prevent their diseases from spreading amongst our own camp. - -No permanent relief could be afforded by our people, and the bestowal -of a morsel here and there was merely a protraction of suffering. - -About fifty miles from Cawnpore, and on the banks of the former bed -of the Ganges, are the ruins of Kanoge, formerly one of the principal -cities of India, and by some supposed to have been the limit of -Alexander the Great, in his Eastern campaign.[5] - -Above the congregated heaps of mud and brick are seen the white domes -of monuments and temples of later construction, like the ghosts of -decayed Eastern grandeur peering out on the surrounding desolation. The -vicinity of an ancient ruin incites most of us to a contemplative mood. -We reflect on the scenes that have been enacted there when the building -was tenanted, and its inmates were playing their part on the stage -of life. It is true, that the events of those days we have wandered -back upon, may not have been a whit more interesting than those at -present before us; yet Time generally hallows the past with a certain -veneration, especially when connected with associations of classical -antiquity such as may be conjured up in Kanoge; and the faintest -evidence may lead us to walk on the track of the mighty Macedonian, and -think-- - - "Hic illius arma-- - Hic currus fuit." - -The atmosphere of Kanoge certainly conveys a sense of desolation -surpassing that of any other ruinous city I have visited, and mutely -explains its fallen condition unaided by native legends or speculative -historians. I have read many discussions on the present and past state -of this city; but none, I am convinced, could have visited it at a more -impressive period than I did, when a dreadful famine was testifying -itself in the faces and forms of the scanty, emaciated inhabitants. - -Advancing up the country, we found during nearly every march a grove -of trees sufficiently extensive to encamp under, which sheltered -us considerably from the sun and dust, both of which were becoming -seriously disagreeable, especially the latter, which rose daily about -noon, with the wind setting in at that time, and lasted till sunset, -when it dropped, leaving everything in the tent buried an inch deep in -dust; and then came our ancient enemies the mosquitoes. - -Three weeks marching carried us over two hundred miles of country, -and to a town called Koorja, within sixty miles of Merut, where we -experienced a severe typhoon, which, though of common occurrence -in Upper India, was the first I had seen, and the most destructive -that had been felt that season. It came on suddenly about four in -the afternoon, having given us no notice of its approach, for the -appearance all round had been hazy during the afternoon. In five -seconds, we were enveloped in complete darkness, caused by clouds of -sand and dust raised by the tempest, and whirled through the air. The -howling of the storm was accompanied by almost incessant peals of -thunder. As the typhoon increased in violence, the fiery appearance -of the dust, from the continued gleaming of lightning, presented a -singular effect. In the course of a quarter of an hour, two tents -were levelled and torn to pieces, and my own quivered to such a -degree, that, expecting to be carried away with it, I got clear of the -impending wreck, and, groping my way out to leeward, came immediately -in contact with a huge bullock. Any port in a storm, thought I, as I -clung to the monster's horns for an anchorage. He, like an unfeeling -brute, struggled hard to get rid of the burden; and the contest was -at the fiercest, when, coming in contact with a hackery, to which he -was attached, we both rolled on the ground together. "Taree machee!" -screamed an unhappy gharuwan,[6] against whom we fell; but his -invective was cut short by a kick in the stomach from my antagonist. -Rejoiced to find a more passive assistant in the hackery-wheels, I -let go the refractory bullock, and held on by the cart until the -storm abated. This took place in a few minutes; when, creeping from -my shelter, amid a deluge of rain, into a portion of the tent that -fortunately remained standing, I lay in comparative comfort, listening -to the retiring rattle of the thunder. - -We then set about repairing the damages of the camp, and soon put it in -condition to afford shelter for the night. - -At daybreak, the whole country appeared one sheet of water, through -which we marched; and, having lost our guide, soon afterwards lost our -way. Having wandered some miles in search of a road, we came at length -to a village, where, seizing upon an unwilling guide, we were by him -conducted across country, or rather across water, to our destination. - -The land assumed a more green and cheerful aspect for the last five -marches into Merut, which we reached, without any further accidents, on -the 10th of April. - -As the hot winds, which are not agreeable "compagnons de voyage," were -daily expected to set in, we congratulated ourselves on the conclusion -of this long and weary march of nearly nine hundred miles, which was -accomplished in ninety-six days. - -Although the labours of the march were ended, I felt myself far from -comfortable in my new quarters, for the greater part of my baggage -was on the Ganges--some eight hundred miles off; I was not settled -in any habitation; and lastly, I was among strangers: the two latter -objections were soon overcome, but the former I found a serious -inconvenience. - -No life of which I can form an estimate, even that on board ship, can -present fewer attractions than a residence, during the hot season, in -India. In the upper provinces, about the end of April, the hot winds -come rushing from the sandy deserts to the westward, bearing on their -fiery wings columns of burning dust, which penetrate to every room in -the house, and replenish the eyes, ears, and mouth of the sufferer who -ventures to face them faster than he can dispose of the nuisance. A -framework of bamboos, covered with long roots of grass termed cuscus, -is placed against the windows and doors to the westward, which are -continually watered outside by a native, at the expense of keeping up -his attention by an occasional "halloo." About sunset, the wind usually -drops, and the air remains impregnated with particles of fiery red -dust; and as that is the time for coming out of the heated dwelling to -swallow the hotter air outside, we may as well change the subject, for -it is not likely to prove interesting or agreeable. - -Towards the end of June, these messengers of the desert cease to -arrive; a calm interval (but rather a _restless_ calm) succeeds, which -is shortly broken, if the season be favourable, by the approach of -heavy columns of clouds from the east, which burst over the thirsty -plains of India like angels' visits. The sensation of renovated -existence conveyed by this first fall of rain both to animal and -vegetable may be imagined even by those who have witnessed the rare -effect of a short summer's drought in rainy England. - -From the descriptions I had heard of our present quarters, I imagined -Merut to be a most picturesque little elysium; but those accounts were -generally spitefully uttered by discontented Indians, during a summer's -drizzle or a London fog. The stern reality varied little from the -character of other cantonments which I had visited during my march up -the country, either in point of climate or scenery. The barracks are -oblong, single-storied buildings, dressed with mathematical precision, -(and conveying from a distance the idea of so many petrified columns of -troops,) flanked with equally precise roads. - -In rear of the men's barracks are arranged, in similar order, the -officers' bungalows, each enclosed in a small square compound, the -condition of which depends of course on the pursuits or taste of the -owner. - -The massive bungalow to the right of the line, is flanked by high mud -walls, to which are appended dog-kennels on one side and extensive -stables on the other. More care and attention have evidently been -bestowed on this than on the dwelling-house. The available land, -embellished by a patch of oats and a parterre of half-demolished -lucerne, proclaims the owner an amateur of the turf and field. - -The small, but neater-looking building at the further extremity of the -line, situated in the midst of a garden, fragrant with many a variety -of flower and carefully-pruned shrub, tell, beyond a doubt, that some -benign influence has dispensed these blessings on the soil, whilst the -house contains the gem itself: - - "In the cup of life, - That honey drop--the virtuous wife." - -Gardens overgrown with weeds, dilapidated walls and gates, testify the -indolence or indifference of other owners; and yonder drowsy-looking -building, with most of its shutters closed, and the verandah piled with -six dozen chests, beside which are reclining, in good-humoured repose, -a numerous and motley group of _marines_, who have travelled from the -generous vineyards of France and Germany to perform their last duty on -the burning soil of Hindostan,--all these afford too strong evidence to -require explanation. - -The heat of the weather during June, this year, certainly exceeded -anything I had ever anticipated, and its continuance day and night -became deeply oppressive to the spirits of the uninitiated. About -the middle of the month, we had a smart shock of an earthquake, which -was felt from Calcutta to the Himalayah mountains, although it caused -little injury. The sensation was of a most singular and disagreeable -nature, the roof of the house assuming a menacing attitude, and -appearing to rock to and fro; but giddiness prevented me from being -over particular in taking observations. A small cistern of water -becoming violently agitated and overflowing its sides, was illustrative -of what happened after the shock was over. - -We were, at length, relieved from the violent and sickening heat, by a -strong easterly breeze, bringing a mass of threatening clouds, which -burst like a water-spout over the plains. In twenty-four hours, the -cantonments and surrounding country were flooded, and the before arid -plains now presented the appearance of an extensive lake. When the -rains cease, and the clouds, rolling away, give place to the sun to -look upon the waters, his influence soon dries a large portion of the -soil, and the vapours which rise from the earth produce a damp heat, -less endurable than the preceding dryness, and much more insalubrious. - -After this change in the weather, I paid a visit to the Himalayah -mountains, which lie about a hundred and ten miles north of Merut, and -presented a most tantalizing sight during the hot season, rearing their -snow-capped peaks at apparently so short a distance from the scorched -and glistening plains of our present quarters. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 1: Concha is a species of siliceous clay, lying in strata at -a depth of from three to four feet beneath the surface of the whole -alluvial plain of the Ganges.] - -[Footnote 2: Pajamas are loose trousers.] - -[Footnote 3: Julian, Ep. xliii. Gibbon, ii. 48.] - -[Footnote 4: A havildar is the serjeant of a native regiment.] - -[Footnote 5: Kanoge was built about 1000 years B.C., and _was said_ -to exceed 100 miles in circumference; it was besieged by Mahmoud of -Ghuzni, and surrendered about A.D. 1020.--(R. Dow's Works.)] - -[Footnote 6: Gharuwan--a bullock-driver.] - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -VISIT TO THE HIMALAYAH MOUNTAINS. - - -Our party, consisting of three officers of my regiment and myself, -started on the evening of the 1st of August, and having halted during -the heat of the next day at a house on the road, erected for the -convenience of travellers by government, we reached the foot of the -hills at daybreak on the 3rd instant. - -We remained at a small inn recently established there, awaiting an -interval in the torrents of rain which were descending, before we -commenced our ascent. After the greater part of the day had passed -without the occurrence of this lucid interval, I started with one -of our party to mount the precipitous hills which towered above us, -enveloped in mist. We procured two sturdy little mountain-ponies, -that despised our weight, and, dashing through the torrents of rain, -breasted the rough acclivity. The mountains from Rajpore rise abruptly -in a constant succession of sharp and lofty peaks, whose sides from -beneath appear nearly perpendicular. The roads, which are about two -yards in breadth, are cut round the sides of the mountains, and winding -by a gradual ascent round some, conduct you slowly upwards; on others, -the circuit being impeded, or too extensive for the former system, -a zig-zag road is made, to bring you more rapidly, though much more -laboriously, to their brow, whence a ridge frequently stretches across -to the adjacent mountains. - -The spirited little hill-ponies carried us fearlessly across these -narrow passes, on each side of which a yawning abyss frequently -descends, till lost to sight amid the gloomy shade of the rocks and -shrubs projecting from its sides; whilst the mountain torrents, roaring -above and beneath, and frequently dashing, in their impetuous course, -across the path you are pursuing, present a wild and magnificent sight. - -Night had far advanced, and our ponies began to exhibit unequivocal -symptoms of weariness from their severe toil, when we arrived at the -hotel, then standing at Mussouri, for the reception of travellers. -Here we soon divested ourselves of our well-soaked garments, and -enjoyed the unusual Eastern luxury of a blazing fire. - -Next morning, the weather having cleared up, I sallied forth to enjoy -the varied and beautiful scenery, and scrambled to the summit of -Landour, which stands about 7000 feet above the level of the sea. On -the front, towered the Tyne range, about 10,000 feet in height; and -far beyond these, Jumnootri and Gungootri, whence flow the sources -of the Jumna and Ganges, are visible, their summits glittering with -everlasting snow, from an elevation of 24,000 feet. On the right of -this barrier of eternal snow, was dimly visible the peak of Dwalagiri, -whose hoary heights, though untrodden by the foot of mortal man, have -been measured by his ingenuity, and pronounced to be the loftiest in -the world.[7] - -Dazzled with the resplendent and gorgeous scene, whose reflection from -the morning sun became too much for the eye to endure, I turned to -look down on the beautiful and fertile valley of the Doune, which lay -stretched beneath, and through which the Ganges, extricating itself -from the mountains, rushed, in its turbid and meandering course, -into the plains; whilst on the other side of the same fairy valley, -the clear and stately Jumma flowed majestically onwards, to unite its -crystal waters with its sister river at Allahabad. - -The scenery here is excessively striking to the traveller, on account -of the miserably barren and uninteresting flats he must traverse ere -reaching these mountains, which nature appears to have raised to a -stupendous elevation, in atonement for her negligence to other parts -of Hindostan. The mild climate of these regions has rendered them a -favourite resort, during the summer months, for the families of those -eking out their eastern servitude; and many neat villas, partaking more -of the character of European than of Asiatic architecture, ornament -the sides and summits of Landour and Mussouri. The woods, which cover -with great luxuriance the lower ranges of hills, from the base to -the summit, constitute the principal beauty of the mountains. The -trees most abundant near Landour are the oak and rhododendron; the -latter grows to a large size, and produces a rich crimson flower, far -exceeding in size and brilliancy of colour the shrub producing that -blossom in England; and in the spring so great is its abundance, that -it appears to cast a ruddy hue on the sides of the mountains. In the -interior of the mountains, I have seen, growing wild, almost every kind -of fruit tree[8] met with in Europe. Here is also a very beautiful and -gigantic fir growing in the higher altitudes, termed the deodar, which -is peculiar, I believe, to the Himalayahs, and much valued for its -durable properties when used in building. - -The rains continued to fall with untiring assiduity until the latter -part of September. - -Early in October, I set out with a party of friends on a tour in -the interior. We were each provided with a small tent holding a -bed and table, which, in addition to our guns and a few bottles of -wine and spirits, were all we could take with us; for so rugged and -precipitous are the paths, that everything belonging to travellers -in these mountains must be carried by the Paharries, (natives of the -mountains,) who scramble up the steepest precipices with considerable -loads strapped on their backs. There is generally much difficulty in -procuring a quantum sufficit of these useful animals. The natives of -the plains have a great aversion to the climate of the mountains, which -usually disagrees with them, and cannot be made of much use in a -journey in the interior. The Paharries, indeed, have a similar feeling -towards the plains, and can seldom be prevailed on to remain any length -of time in the lower regions. - -From Landour we descended amongst the thick brushwood, and long tangled -grass which clad the mountain sides until we reached the bottom of a -kudd, or valley, not far above the level of the plains, through which -foamed an impetuous mountain torrent. We had some difficulty in fording -this stream, on account of its rapidity and the quantity of large -moveable stones in its bed. Being surrounded by precipitous mountains, -which completely intercepted every current of air, the heat in this -valley was exceedingly oppressive. The vegetation around us was most -luxuriant, and it was with considerable toil we forced our way through -the wilderness of shrubs, interwoven with long matted grass. - -We now commenced the abrupt ascent of the Tyne mountains, along a -narrow Paharrie track, where the footing was extremely precarious, -and a false step would have consigned the perpetrator to the tender -mercies of the sharp pointed rocks several hundred feet beneath. About -nightfall it became very difficult to distinguish the track, but our -ponies, who scrambled along without any accidents behind us, seeming to -make light of the matter, we mounted and trusted to their sagacity. - -I had cause, ere long, to repent this misplaced confidence, for, on -turning a sharp angle of rock, I was interrupted during an energetic -argument with my successor by a most appalling stumble, and, in an -instant, disappeared with my faithless quadruped, from the eyes of my -astonished brother disputant. - -A few feet under the ledge of rock grew a kind hearted shrub, (better -deserving of immortality than the tree of murderous intentions upon -Horace,) which I embraced and clung to with affectionate eagerness. My -poor pony fared otherwise, and by the crashing amongst the stones and -shrubs underneath, I had cause to conjecture he was suffering bitter -punishment for his error: far from it, the fall had soon been converted -into a roll, on the fortunately gradual slope of this especial spot, -and we found him busily engaged with the thick grass which had -preserved, and was now nourishing, the little viper. - -The moon now made her appearance, and we reached a platform of land -where fields of wheat and barley announced the vicinity of a village, -whose mud huts we descried on the side of a steep ravine; above which -towered a noble grove of the picturesque and lofty deodar. Under these -we pitched our tents, and soon became unconscious alike of time and -place. - -Rising at daybreak, we recommenced the toilsome ascent, and, shortly -after noon, reached the summit, whence was beheld an apparently endless -range of mountain upon mountain, the nearest bristling with forests, -the furthest hoary with snow. The description would be but a continual -recurrence to the same imagery, so much does, nature resemble herself -in the drapery which she has spread on these wild regions. - -Next morning, we commenced our preparations for the chase, and having -each taken up a position, our dogs and Paharries entered the heavy -cover, each giving tongue as the game started. The ear was now awake -with intense expectation; the before-predominating silence was broken -by echoed sounds. - -The whirr of the gaudy pheasant as he sprang upwards from the covert, -was succeeded by the roar of the murderous fowling-piece ringing his -death-knell among his native hills; and the sharp crack of the rifle -followed the track of the deer, as he dashed from the woods, and -bounded wildly down the rocky precipices. - -I had remained perched on my rock, contemplating the scene for a -considerable time without being called upon to use my weapons, when -suddenly a noble tehr[9] stood before me, his long dun hair hanging -in ringlets over his body, and his head erect, listening to the cries -of the beaters, now growing faint in the distance. I hastily snatched -up my rifle, (as I thought,) and taking a steady aim at his shoulder, -fired. Though barely forty yards from me, to my utter surprise, he -dashed away unharmed, and in two minutes I saw him bounding at full -speed along the ridge of a hill nearly a mile off. Turning away in -silent disgust, I felt almost inclined to vent my anger on the rifle, -but discovered that, in the haste of the moment, in lieu of the rifle -I had snatched up a fowling-piece loaded with shot. Having lost an -opportunity such as is rarely met with in tehr shooting, for they rank -among the wildest of mountain game, I descended the hill in search of -my companions, but they were far away, and I contented myself with the -pursuit of small game. - -At nightfall, our party straggled into camp, having all had but poor -sport, which was a trifling consolation to me. - -The game in these mountains, though of great variety, are exceedingly -difficult to come at, owing to the heavy coverts which shelter them, -and it is by no means singular for the best sportsmen to return empty -handed. During my residence in the Himalayahs, I have frequently -wandered the greater part of the day without meeting with a head -of game--at other times, by being on the spot by daybreak, I have -succeeded in bringing down two or three chamois before sunrise. It is -requisite to approach them with great caution, and always from above; -if the first ball be unsuccessful, the deer will sometimes wheel -suddenly round, and stop from full speed to ascertain the reason of the -interruption. - -The gooral (or, more intelligibly speaking, the chamois) affords the -best sport of all the mountain tribe. He is to be found early in the -morning, feeding among the long grass, generally on the side of the -steepest mountains, and must be carefully stalked, for his senses are -of a refined order. When wounded, he often leads his destroyer a chase -of many a weary mile down the steepest kudds, and over sharp pointed -rocks, where the trail must be followed by the signs of the mountain -dew brushed from the surface of the grass, or the rocks stained by the -ebbing blood of the stricken animal. The sagacity of the Paharries -in following this trail, and the sharpness of their sight, are very -remarkable, in contradistinction to their neighbours of the plains; but -the fact is easily accounted for, from their having exercised these -faculties in the chase from childhood amongst the same scenes, as they -very seldom quit their native mountains. I have often seen a Paharrie -detect, at the first glance, over a mountain, a gooral feeding on the -further side, at a distance which took some landmark given me by my -companion to ascertain the spot, and I have hardly ever known them to -err. They are a hardy, active and courageous race, who, having been a -most formidable foe to the British in the earlier periods of Indian -warfare, have, now that they have enlisted under the banners of the -Company, proved the bravest and best of the native army. - -Many kinds of deer are to be found amongst the mountains, and an -endless variety of the feathered tribe, amongst which the most -remarkable are the distinct species of pheasants which haunt the -mountains, the species varying with the altitude; but this subject is -rather too plentiful a theme for the present narrative, and must be -left to competent ornithologists. - -The Jerrow, or maha, is the noblest specimen of the stag to be met -with, and may be ranked as the elk of the Himalayah. He stands from -four to five feet in height; his colour is a rich brown, and his -antlers, branching into six on each side, have obtained for him the -name of bara singh[10] in the plains. During the day time, they usually -lie in the heaviest jungle; but at morning and evening they may be seen -grazing in the rich pastures, and usually in pairs. The Jerrow, as he -stalks majestically through the woods, bearing proudly aloft his high -branching antlers, looks the undisputed monarch of the mountain forests. - -The next in size to the Jerrow is a deer about three and a half feet -in height at full growth, and termed the Surrow. He is of a dark hue, -with short deflected horns, thickly built, and with coarse bristling -hair, much like the wild hog. His head and shoulders resemble a donkey -ornamented with a horse's mane and a goat's horns. This scarce and -singular beast has a spirit in proportion to his deformity. - -His habitation is among the gloomiest rocks and caverns, and when -roused from his solitude he prepares readily for the conflict, and -charges with desperate ferocity. - -I remember an encounter between a brother-officer and sportsman, in -the hills, and a surrow, which he had wounded, which nearly proved -serious to the gallant and athletic soldier. M... threw himself upon -the wounded animal, when he charged, and seized him in his iron grasp, -so as to pinion the surrow and prevent his making use of his deadly -antlers. The struggle continued a long time; the deer ultimately -succeeded in getting his head free, and immediately struck savagely -backwards with his horns, when M... narrowly escaped the fatal stroke, -and casting himself sideways, grasped the surrow's neck with one arm, -so that he could not use his horns with effect, while with the other he -succeeded in drawing a clasp-knife, which put an end to the contest. - -Besides the animals above mentioned, the Himalayahs can show to the -persevering sportsman the small kaukur, or barking deer, the musk-deer, -the hog deer, and in the snowy regions, the ibex, and burral, or wild -sheep. The tiger and leopard frequent the deepest valleys of the lower -ranges, and, late in the autumn, the bear-shooting of these mountains -will rank with any sport that is to be met with in India. - -I was preparing for the journey towards the sources of the Ganges, -when a most unwelcome visitor, in the shape of a fever, summoned me -homewards. It was in vain to struggle any longer with my obstinate -antagonist, so I yielded to the advice of my fellow-travellers, and -turned my back for ever on these wild and glorious mountains. The -floor-cloth of my tent was taken up, and the two corners bound together -by ropes which also attached it to the tent pole. In this primitive -conveyance I was borne by eight Paharries homewards to Landour. - -The jolting I underwent, and the stumps of trees that left their -numerous prints on my back, brought me in a few hours into a state -bordering on delirium. On descending the last valley before reaching -Landour, a severer thump than usual caused me to start up, and bless -my tormentors; the pole of the litter snapped, and away I rolled, with -my dusky companions, towards the lower regions. The circular motion -soon made me so giddy, that I might have rolled unconsciously into the -next world, but my guardian angel interposed a little copse of bamboos -between me and it. When I had recovered the senses remaining to me, and -peered out of the copse to ascertain the locale of my fellow rollers, -it was with feelings of mortification I counted and found all present -and sound except one, who had luckily broken his nose. - -Two hours after this event, I found myself in bed, contemplating -the surgeon, as he tried the point of his lancet, with the feelings -which a pig evidently possesses and betrays on perceiving the butcher -sharpening his knife, preparatory to the final gash. - -The fever was not unto death, as the reader (if there be such a person) -will doubtless have concluded by the continuance of my narrative, and -therefore as I cannot hope to excite much sympathy for my sufferings, -or doubt as to the result, I had better recover at once, especially as -that will occupy but a few words in the present instance, though it -took me five weeks at that time. - -I had scarcely recovered my strength after this attack, when news of -a most warlike character arrived from the lower regions, inducing me -to start immediately to rejoin my regiment, which it was rumoured was -about to proceed immediately on active service. I reached Merut after -two days' journey, and found all minds intent upon the approaching -campaign in Scinde and Affghanistan. - -I had not been many days in cantonments, before conjecture was changed -to certainty, by the arrival of despatches from head-quarters, -ordering my regiment to form part of the army destined to assemble at -Ferozepore on the Sutlej, about the latter end of November. - -All now was bustle and business in our previously quiet cantonment. -The furnace in the armourer's forge glowed with as much assiduity, -and more brilliancy, doubtless, than that of yore at the shrine of -the incomprehensible Vesta. On every side were heard the clicking of -carbine and pistol locks; swords and lance-points sent sparkles of -fire from countless grindstones, and above all other sounds rose the -tumultuous din of the anvils. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 7: The peak of Dwalagiri exceeds 27,000 feet.] - -[Footnote 8: I hear that botanists deny the unity of the genus.] - -[Footnote 9: The tehr is a mountain goat.] - -[Footnote 10: Bara singh--twelve horns.] - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -MATTERS RELATING TO THE AFGHANS--MARCH THROUGH DELHI TO -FEROZEPORE--RUNJEET'S INTERVIEW--MARCH TOWARDS BUHAWULPORE. - - -The circumstances on the north-western frontier, and beyond it, which -caused these warlike preparations, were nearly as follow:-- - -The fortress of Herat, which formed the frontier bulwark of the -kingdom of Caubul, but which was now in possession of Prince Kamran, -(son of Mahmood, a deposed monarch of Afghanistan,) had been for some -time invested by a large Persian force, instigated, it was imagined, -by Russian influence. As this fortress opens a free ingress to the -countries on our north-western frontier, the government of India felt -particularly sensitive on its account, and suddenly commiserating its -forlorn condition, seized the present opportunity and pretext for -advancing to its relief. - -Shah Soojah Ool Moolk, having been deposed from the throne of Caubul, -after the battle of Neemla, in 1809, had for many years been residing -at Loodianah as a pensioner of the East India Company. At this -juncture, the government of India, pitying the kingdomless state of -that able monarch, resolved to reseat him on the throne, and thereby, -and, in the accomplishment of that purpose, to further the following -objects. - -1st. The relief of the besieged fortress of Herat. - -2ndly. The establishment of British supremacy and a military force in -Afghanistan, as an outwork to obstruct any encroachments. - -3rdly. The secure establishment of that long-meditated project, the -navigation of the river Indus: the savage nations bordering thereon, -with the exception of the Sikhs, having had but little intercourse with -the British until Sir Alexander Burnes' memorable visit. - -The throne of Caubul was at this time usurped by Dost Mahomed, -brother of the late enterprising vizier, Futteh Khan, whose courage -and abilities alone had retained the kingdom in the hands of the -descendants of Ahmed Shah; until after the dethronement of Soojah, and -murder of Mahmood, he transmitted it into more capable authority, the -royal line having become equally obnoxious from imbecility, cowardice, -and tyranny. - -Numerous factions, opposed to Dost Mahomed, still existed in -Afghanistan, amongst the leaders of which, the most powerful were, -Prince Kamran, the independent chief of Herat, and Dost Mahomed's own -brothers, the Ameers of Candahar. There also existed considerable -animosity between the members of rival families and tribes in -Afghanistan, similar to those feuds which divided the clans of the -Highlands even in the recent periods of Scottish history. - -Sir Alexander Burnes had been resident for some time at the court -of Dost Mahomed, but that monarch had latterly exhibited a decided -Philo-Russian propensity, although, in the language of the East, -he continued to profess himself the slave of the British: Burnes -distrusted the royal sincerity, and had been recalled. - -The fortress of Herat had been reduced to so weak a state, that -apprehensions were daily entertained of its falling[11] a prey to the -Persians, when an emissary from the British arrived with an offer of -relief, which was joyfully accepted, and the defence of the city was -carried on with renewed vigour, under the superintendence of Lieut. -Pottinger, an officer of the East India Company's Engineers. - -The Candahar chiefs, though suspected of being in communication with -Persia, observed a strict neutrality in the present aspect of affairs. - -Regarding the countries bordering on the Indus, no doubt was -entertained of a ready compliance with the proposals of government, -when accompanied by an argument of 20,000 well-disciplined troops. - -The Punjaub, lying between the British frontier and Afghanistan, was -at that time subject to the renowned Maharajah Runjeet Singh, between -whom and the British power a well-observed alliance had existed for -many years; but an insuperable religious hostility divided the Sikhs -from the Afghans. Shah Soojah himself had experienced scanty clemency, -when flying from his country through the Punjaub, after his defeat at -Neemla, for he was seized by the old Lion of the Sikhs, thrown into -prison, and robbed of every article he possessed, among which was -the celebrated Koh-i-noor,[12] one of the most valuable jewels in -existence. Shah Soojah having escaped from, or been let out of prison, -as useless lumber, found a permanent refuge in the British territories. - -A meeting was arranged to take place at Ferozepore between Runjeet -Singh and the governor-general of India (Lord Auckland), at which the -movements of the former, in co-operation with the British forces, were -to be arranged. - -Matters stood on the footing thus briefly described, when a portion -of the Bengal army were ordered to assemble at Ferozepore, about the -end of November, 1838; and, at the same time, a force from Bombay -was directed to sail to the mouth of the Indus, and march along the -banks of that river, meeting the Bengal army in the neighbourhood of -Shikarpore. - -At the latter end of October, the regiment to which I belonged marched -out of cantonments, and encamped on the turf where many a spirited -field day had been enacted during the previous season. On the following -day our tents were all struck at the dawn of morning, and the regiment -marched about eight miles towards Delhi. - -The fourth morning after leaving Meerut, we crossed the Jumna on a -bridge of boats, and entered Delhi, the far-famed residence of the -Mogul emperors; formerly a city conspicuous for wealth and luxury, -now equally so for the impudent demeanour of its inhabitants, the -manufacture of shawls, and an intolerable abundance of flies. - -Delhi still contains many substantial native residences, a vast extent -of ruins in its suburbs, a few old tombs and mosques, the royal palace, -and a thickly-peopled bazaar. - -A high flight of steps at the end of one of the principal bazaars, -leads to the mosque built by Shah Jehan, some two hundred years since. -Passing under a narrow archway at the head of the steps, you enter a -large square court, paved with stone. At the eastern side stands the -high-domed praying-place, and each angle of the square is garnished -with a lofty minaret, all built of red sandstone. - -The court is edged with a low range of cloisters, over which is a -battlemented terrace, commanding an extensive view of the city and -suburbs. - -In the distance is seen the celebrated Koutub--a monument erected -by an emperor of that name. This pillar is elegantly and elaborately -carved, stands about two hundred and fifty feet in height, and is -ascended by a spiral staircase.[13] - -The original intention of the architect is unknown; the hieroglyphics -supposed to convey important intelligence being a mystery; but it -is conjectured that it must have been intended as a minaret for a -projected mosque, which was never completed. Near the Koutub is a -curious iron pillar, the intention of which is as much hidden in -obscurity as that of the elegant minar. It appears to have irritated -the destructive organ of Nadir Shah, who vainly endeavoured to dig -it up, and failing in the experiment, brought his largest cannon to -bear on the obnoxious pillar, which bears the impression of the ball, -but stands as firmly as ever. We were informed that the mystery had -recently been penetrated by a Brahmin sage, who had discovered that it -was the axis of the earth: the principal objection to this ingenious -theory perhaps consists in the latitude of this immovable pole. - -In the palace of the city still dwells the nominal King of Delhi, -the fallen representative of the Mogul empire, now unable to command -his own movements--that is, if they should be directed to an escape -from the courteous but actual thraldom he undergoes. The palace is -surrounded by lofty battlemented walls of red granite, and a deep moat. -Passing through the ponderous gateway, you enter a large square court, -whence another archway leads into a second court, of still greater -dimensions, at the extremity of which stands the audience hall, built -on eight massive pillars of alabaster. In the centre of this hall -stands a throne of pure crystal, on which, our native guide informed -us, had sat many a mighty emperor. "See, then, a mightier than the -present king of the Mogul empire sit on that throne," exclaimed one -of our officers, bringing himself to an anchor on the tempting seat. -The amazed guide turned up his eyes in pious horror, expecting the -apparition of some monarch of that mighty line to avenge this invasion -of his royal seat of honour; but they seemed disposed to put up with -the affront, or perhaps to acquiesce in the observation, and remained -quiet in their graves. - -From hence we passed into the palace gardens, on the Jumna's banks, -which were once the admiration of all beholders, but now much -neglected. Here I observed, under an alcove, a sickly-looking lad, -who proved to be the king's eldest son, and heir-apparent, amusing -himself with lighting crackers, and pelting them at his attendants, -or thrusting them in the faces of those he could reach--a pretty fair -emblem of what the petty tyrant might become were time and opportunity -afforded him. Yet, even in modern times, have men raised an incubus of -this class to oppress and torture themselves, and, bending meekly to -the royal idol, earned and deserved the infliction. The recent history -of India, not a century ago, teems with instances which cast far in the -shade the comparatively feeble efforts of Domitian or Commodus. - -The cholera was raging to an awful extent whilst we were encamped -outside the walls of Delhi, and upwards of two hundred were daily -falling victims. Though we felt not the scourge at once, the column had -not proceeded many marches before the seeds of the disease, probably -brought from hence, and lurking among us, burst and spread devastation -around. - -The experimental camel-battery, in charge of Major Pew, joined our -brigade, which had been formed at Delhi, and accompanied us to -Ferozepore. - -On the 4th of November we quitted Delhi, and marched through an -uninteresting country, over-spread with low jungle and marsh, save -where a small village, perched on an eminence, enlivened the view by -the cultivation in its neighbourhood. A chain of pickets was now posted -daily, and an officer sent about twenty miles in advance to explore and -report on the country to our brigadier. - -The cholera, that scourge of the east, now made its appearance amongst -us, carrying off three of our men the first day, and sending numbers -into hospital, but singularly enough not another fell a victim to the -disease, which confined itself to the natives and committed dire havoc -amongst them. Numbers died on the line of march daily, and the camp and -hospital were literally strewn with dead bodies. - -No sooner had the pestilence stricken them than they succumbed to fate -without using an effort to obtain relief, and died often without a -struggle in less than an hour after their seizure. - -Grass-cutters, coolies, and the lower castes, were the principal -victims, and few were the officers in camp who had not to lament the -loss of some servants carried off during the four days the epidemic -resided with us. - -The causes assigned, by the medical men, for the outbreak of cholera, -were the unripe grain used by the natives as food, and the rank -vegetation springing around us; for we were passing still through -jungle, interwoven with long coarse grass. However, this continued -the same the whole way to Ferozepore nearly, and the scourge remained -but four days upon us, which does not tend to strengthen the above -mentioned reason. I know not why we should attempt to assign causes -for the prevalence of cholera, whilst those of many other diseases are -unheeded. - -One learned practitioner (a Dr. Tytler) has written a book to prove -that the malady is caused by the prevalent use of rice amongst the -natives of India, and proposes calling the cholera the "Morbus -Oryzeus." No doubt the change of name was in order to show the choleric -imp how well we knew him, and to warn him off. - -But, however applicable the theory might seem to India, the learned -doctor must find some other reason for its European visit, where rice -is certainly not the principal food of the inhabitants. To those -acquiescing in the Tytler theory, I can only recommend, in the words of -Horace, - - "Spectatum admissi _risum_ teneatis amici." - -On the 28th of November we reached Ferozepore, the general rendezvous -for the Bengal force, and found the army encamped about four miles from -the left bank of the Sutlej. - -Lord Auckland and Sir Henry Fane had also arrived, to meet Runjeet -Singh, who was encamped, with a force of 20,000 troops, on the opposite -bank, and had thrown a bridge of boats across the river. The Sutlej was -then about two hundred and fifty yards in breadth, rolling sluggishly -over its muddy bed, and through a country where little was to be seen -but long dry grass and low jhow jungle. - -The town was undergoing considerable improvements, under the hands -of our engineers. The fort, too, was re-echoing to the mason's and -carpenter's weapons, and most of the narrow streets in the suburbs were -being levelled, to make way for a wide and massive bazaar, so that, -from a mean and dirty place, Ferozepore bids fair to become, ere long, -a large and flourishing town. - -The army, daily arriving, were encamped north-west of Ferozepore, -between it and the Sutlej, and consisted of-- - - The Cavalry Brigade, commanded by Colonel Arnold, comprising Her - Majesty's 16th Lancers, 2nd and 3rd Native Cavalry, and one troop - Horse Artillery. - - 1st Infantry Brigade, commanded by Colonel Sale: of Her Majesty's 13th - Light Infantry, two regiments Native Infantry, and the Camel Battery. - - 2nd Infantry Brigade, Colonel Dennis: Her Majesty's 3rd Buffs, two - regiments Native Infantry, Sappers. - - 3rd Infantry Brigade, Colonel Roberts: Company's European regiment, - two regiments Native Infantry, Park of Artillery. - - 4th Brigade, Colonel Nott: three regiments Native Infantry. - - 5th Brigade, Colonel Paul: three regiments Native Infantry, one - company Artillery, besides engineers, commissariat, and staff. - -The day after our arrival, Maharajah Runjeet Singh came over to visit -Lord Auckland, and I accompanied the governor-general's escort on -the occasion. After remaining upwards of six hours in the saddle, in -front of Lord Auckland's Durbar tents, we heard the welcome sound -of Runjeet's gongs and nousheras approaching, and shortly after, -from beneath a massive canopy of dust, emerged the motley array of -Runjeet's elephants and cavalcade. Now, hundreds of gaily clad Sikh -horsemen--some in bright chain armour, others in various coloured silks -and cloth of gold, brandished their long spears, flung back their -brass embossed shields, and galloped with headlong fury around the -maharajah's elephants, exhibiting to us the singular dexterity with -which they could wield their arms and manage their horses. - -As the procession approached, Runjeet was conspicuous in front, on -an enormous elephant, and dressed in a plain suit of ruby coloured -cashmere, with a turban of the same colour, whilst on his arm glittered -the famous koh-i-noor, the diamond which, as I before mentioned, his -highness obtained in no very creditable manner from Shah Soojah. - -The maharajah was rather below the middling stature, slight in form, -and his face expressive of the shrewdest cunning. The leer that -occasionally escaped from his single optic seemed to tell a clear tale -of debauchery. He was then about fifty-six years of age, although I -should have taken him to be more; but an unbridled devotion to ardent -spirits tells on personal appearance, and appeared to have corroded his -iron frame. - -After the chief had passed, a swarm of Sikhs followed, some on -horseback and some on foot, dressed in the most fantastical and -grotesque style, but at the same time the materials were generally of a -costly and extravagant quality. - -The long spear and matchlock appeared to be their favourite weapons; -but many were armed only with tolwars and daggers. The rear was closed -up by a battalion of infantry, dressed much like our sepoys, and -drilled according to the French system of military tactics, introduced -by General Alard. - -As Runjeet approached the audience tent, Lord Auckland and Sir Henry -Fane put their elephants in motion to meet him, and, after sundry -greetings and salaams, the whole party proceeded to the Durbar, where -the principal actors were obscured from our view by the dense mass of -British officers and Sikhs, who thronged in after them. What passed is -barely worthy of record. Lord Auckland presented a picture of Queen -Victoria, which Runjeet, with becoming gallantry, pressed to his -lips. After sundry professions of inviolable friendship, Runjeet made -some inquiries regarding Aden, which Sir Henry Fane informed him was -occupied by a British garrison. In a short time they adjourned to look -at some cannon, which had been brought as a present to the maharajah, -and over which both he and Sir Henry narrowly escaped breaking their -heads, having stumbled on a heap of cannon balls arranged near the tent. - -Accompanied by his suite, Runjeet remounted his elephant amidst a -deafening salute from the guns of the camel-battery; these seemed -to take his fancy vastly; and, drawing up opposite them, he saw the -camels yoked and the guns drawn past him, expressing great delight and -astonishment at the neatness and regularity of this newly constructed -battery. - -When the maharajah had departed, we also returned to camp, which we did -not reach before one o'clock, when the sun, although a December one, -was fiercely hot. - -On the 1st of December, Lord Auckland returned Runjeet's visit. We -arrived at the river about sunrise, and having crossed on the bridge -of boats, found Runjeet's army drawn up, and forming a street from -the river to the Durbar tents. Nearest to us were the cavalry, the -same motley hordes we had seen two days before; beyond them, stood the -infantry, dressed, both in the military and common acceptation of the -term, with extraordinary attention; and if they will fight as well as -they look, are likely to do their master good service. Next came a -body of goorcheras, or irregular horsemen, dressed in white, and armed -with lances and matchlocks--a remarkably fine-looking body of men, but -generally believed to have an insuperable objection to injure their -fellow-creatures. Much as we may admire their philanthropy, we must -nevertheless admit the quality to be objectionable in a military point -of view. In rear of this array of philanthropists, were disposed a -numerous body of surwars, mounted on camels, and carrying swivel-guns, -which looked like large blunderbusses, from which abominable -instruments an incessant firing was kept up from the time we crossed -the river until we recrossed on our return. - -The governor-general having made his appearance in the street of Sikhs, -Runjeet and his court advanced at a rapid pace on their elephants to -greet his excellency. The dust arose in such masses as for a time -obscured every object; but at the point of junction of the two parties, -the concentrated cloud slowly drifted aside, and displayed to our -dazzled sight the richest blaze of Eastern splendour that for many -years had reflected the rays of our destructive enemy. - -The elephants' housings in Runjeet's suite were made of -gorgeously-embroidered gold cloth, and surmounted by howdahs, inlaid -with ivory and ebony; and Runjeet and his attendants, glittering with -silver and gold, silks and precious stones, formed a marked contrast to -the governor-general and his retinue in their scarlet or blue uniforms. - -The maharajah, as before, was remarkable among the Sikh throng for the -uniformity of his costume, and the noble elephant which carried him, on -which Lord Auckland had now seated himself, at Runjeet's invitation; -and the whole procession moved rapidly towards the Durbar tents. - -Disengaging myself from the mêlée which ensued, I galloped up the -street, and after some difficulty, succeeded in effecting an entrance -through the silken gateway. Within, was a garden, where the rarest -evergreens and flowers were growing, having sprung up, as if by -magic,[14] during the night. In the centre, was the Durbar-tent, made -of strongly-woven Cashmere, and supported by silver poles. The floor -was spread with Persian carpets, and the furniture was of frosted -silver, inlaid with golden ornaments. - -The maharajah having seated himself, Sir Henry Fane and Lord Auckland -took their places on each side. - -Behind Runjeet stood his prime minister, the wily and tyrannous Dhian -Singh, clad in a panoply of bright steel armour, elaborately gilded. -Little could be seen of his face besides the dark flashing eyes and -high-bridged nose, for a monstrous pair of moustaches and a beard -covered his visage and a great part of his body also. - -A glittering string of diamonds and emeralds encircled his neck; and -in his turban stood a bustard's feather, fastened by a diamond brooch. -Scattered about the tent were many of the sirdars and ministers, -remarkable, principally, for the variety and magnificence of their -attire and the length of their beards. - -Mr. Macnaghten, who had been appointed British envoy to Caubul in the -meditated operations, stood in front of the trio, acting as interpreter -on the occasion, during which I did not hear any political subject -discussed. - -Runjeet, finding matters look heavy and irksome, sent for a party -of Punjaubee girls, to dance and sing for the amusement of his two -solemn visitors. The young ladies who made their appearance were not -remarkable for beauty: amongst the whole coterie, I saw but two girls -who could be called pretty. I did not hear, and lament I cannot record, -the opinions of the governor-general and commander-in-chief on this -particular. - -The imposing ballet being ended, and the little Nautch damsels having -filed off, presents of Cashmere shawls and jewellery were brought on -trays and exhibited. When these had been taken away, there seemed no -chance of any more amusements. Poor Runjeet's stock was exhausted; -he looked dreadfully ennuyé; and it certainly seemed a relief to the -chief performers when the party broke up. We all hastened to get back -to our posts when the ceremony was over, though much impeded by the -inquisitiveness of the Sikhs, whose curiosity about every trifle was -quite insatiable. A long-haired barbarian begged to be informed the -use of a sabretash, which seemed to take his fancy much, and inquired -if it was used to carry provisions? He was informed that we seldom or -ever touched food for many days on a campaign if there were much hard -fighting. "Wau, wau!" exclaimed the astonished barbarian, dropping the -sabretash, and gazing in his informant's face with equal amazement and -credulity. - -A Sikh sipahee, remarking some British officers with few symptoms of -manhood visible on their faces, quaintly inquired what rank those -young ladies held in the army! - -Benighted savage! he little knew, and perhaps could never understand, -the absolute and tyrannous sway maintained by our Northern fair! - -About mid-day, we recrossed the bridge of boats, and returned, under a -scorching sun, to camp. - -The following day, a review of the British forces was held, for the -benefit of the maharajah. About ten thousand men were under arms at -daybreak; but from that time till noon, when we returned to camp, -everything was wrapped in an almost impenetrable veil of dust. - -The next day, Runjeet gave us a field-day on his side of the river, -which I was prevented by duty from witnessing; but from the picket -near the Sutlej, where I was posted, the firing of the infantry and -artillery seemed quite as rapid, though not quite so steady, as our -own. Indeed, most of the officers returned astonished to find the Sikh -army so effective and well-disciplined. - -For this discipline, Runjeet was mainly indebted to Generals Alard and -Ventura, two officers of the French imperial army, who passed through -Lahore on their travels from Persia to Hindostan. - -They were detained by Runjeet in a sort of honorary captivity, until -he succeeded in inducing them to enter his service. At the expiration -of six months, Ventura exhibited to the maharajah a battalion of Sikhs, -organized on the French system of military tactics, and Runjeet, as may -be supposed, was greatly pleased at the incalculable improvement in his -men's appearance. - -One circumstance gave considerable annoyance to the sensitive general, -which was the indomitable taste for finery among the subordinate -officers, many of whom far surpassed their commander in richness of -costume. This circumstance was turned to some account by the politic -Ventura, who insinuated to his master that many officers of his -battalion were enabled to wear richer lace and bullion than he could -procure or afford. Runjeet replied, that he would put it beyond their -power to do so any longer, and caused to be made and presented to -Ventura a pair of pearl epaulettes of unrivalled magnificence. - -Both these officers remained long in the service of the Sikhs. Alard -died shortly before the old Lion himself, but Ventura remained to serve -his successor Shere Singh. - -A continual scene of festivity prevailed in Runjeet's camp during our -halt at Ferozepore. The sound of music and revelry was borne on the -evening breeze, the rattle of feu-de-joie rang daily in our ears, and -at night the welkin glowed with fireworks and illuminations. - -At length, the order for our march was issued, and the proclamation -stated, that in consequence of recent intelligence[15] from Herat, -the commander-in-chief, and governor-general deemed it requisite to -prosecute the campaign with the following troops only--viz., - - The Cavalry Brigade, and Camel Battery. - - Three Brigades of Infantry and the Artillery of the Park, with two - troops of Horse Artillery. - -The whole Bengal force was placed under command of Sir Willoughby -Cotton, until its junction with the Bombay army, when Sir John Keane -was to assume command of the united forces, as Sir Henry Fane was -suffering severely from ill health, and about to resign his command and -return to England. - -Colonel Thackwell, of the 3rd Light Dragoons, was appointed to command -the cavalry division, consisting of two brigades, one from the Bengal, -the other from the Bombay presidency. - -On the tenth of December, we commenced our march from Ferozepore, -passing, during the first four days, through the protected Sikh -states, and encamping near villages where supplies were abundant and -water excellent. - -On the fifth day, we entered the territories of Bahawul Khan, -concerning whom many false reports had been prevalent in camp, setting -forth his ill disposition towards the British, and his desire to impede -our progress through his country; the propagators of these fanciful -rumours fathering them invariably on the most plausible and least -tangible authorities. - -The confidential whispers of the envoy who was in our rear, or of -Sir Alexander Burnes, who was in advance, were usually quoted by -these alarmists to command attention to their fabrications. At first, -these tales formed matter of amusement and speculation on the line of -march; but as falsehoods were daily multiplied, the authors, and their -inventions, became a fair subject of ridicule, and, as in the fable of -the shepherd's boy and the wolf, all reports were alike disbelieved. -However, the information department, during the whole campaign, was -not eminently successful; and this may, in some degree, palliate the -superabundance of false reports prevalent during the whole march, -which, in many instances, had influence over those in command, and -were productive of mischievous results. - -During our march through the Bahawulpore country, we found an abundant -stock of grain collected for us at each encampment, which enabled the -commissariat to reserve the stores laid in for the campaign. - -During each morning's march, the Sutlej lay about two or three miles -distant. The country adjacent to it was well cultivated, and in some -places covered with thick underwood; yet, notwithstanding the abundant -supply of fuel on the river's banks, many commissariat camels had been -laden with wood for the use of the army, which had much more need of -grain and other useful stores, of which ere long they bitterly felt the -want. It is worthy of observation, that Burnes, in his report of the -Indus and Sutlej, made frequent mention of the jungle in their vicinity. - -Although the prospect, thus far, was sufficiently cheering on the -right, that on our left flank presented a dreary contrast. We had -reached the borders of that extensive desert which lies south and east -of Bahawulpore, and reduces the cultivated tract of this country to a -mere strip of land, bordering the Sutlej. Far as the eye could reach -when turned towards the British possessions, nothing was discernible -but a barren and trackless desert. Here and there, a few hillocks -had collected and risen over some untimely shrubs, which had sprung -up unconscious of their fatal position, until the domineering sands, -jealous of such an encroachment on their demesnes, arose and entombed -their helpless victims, leaving these mounds as so many trophies to -assert their resistless and desolating sway. - -The roads were deep and sandy, causing the artillery horses and -bullocks severe labour in dragging the guns. But the camels of Major -Pew's battery were quite in their element on the desert, and stalked -lustily away with the heavy guns and carriages. - -About the end of December, we had some light showers of rain, which -rendered the climate delightfully cool in the daytime, (the nights and -mornings had been piercingly cold for some weeks,) and cloth garments -were in great requisition. - -The inhabitants of the country were so peaceably disposed, that we were -enabled to send on tents over night according to the custom in India, -which ensures, on arrival in camp, every morning, the luxuries of a cup -of coffee, a couch, and a bath; the latter is taken _al fresco_ from -a skin filled with water, and poured over the shoulders by a native. -Notwithstanding the good feeling exhibited by the country-people, our -military authorities seemed resolved to distrust them, and posted a -squadron on picket, day and night, with orders to keep mounted patrols -on the alert. An opportunity was hereby afforded of exercising our -vigilance on the camel-drivers and grass-cutters near the camp, and -also of ascertaining by experiment, how much deterioration would be -effected in the constitution of man and horse, by a curtailment of -natural rest, added to long daily marches, and what length of time -would be required to effect that object: the result amply solved the -problem. - -The jungle, on the banks of the river, held a vast quantity of game; -the most numerous of which, was the black partridge--a bird also found -in many parts of Hindostan, and the most beautifully marked, I think, -of the feathered tribe. They frequent the jhow[16] jungle during the -heat of the day, and require an extensive and compact line of beaters -to get them out of the thick covert. Hare, snipe, and quail, were also -plentiful, and, occasionally, we met with a great variety of wild -duck and water-fowl of almost every description, among the marshes -by the river side. The shooting in these marshes can only be followed -by those who despise malaria, for they are proverbially unhealthy: -the excitement of meeting a stray tiger, or sinking in one of the -treacherous quicksands which abound in the vicinity of the Sutlej, -and are generally felt before they are seen, may add zest to more -adventurous sportsmen. - -The distance from Ferozepore to Bahawulpore was two hundred and -twenty-one miles, according to our route; this, we overcame in eighteen -marches, having halted twice for a day. The government agents had been -exerting themselves to get supplies laid in for us at each march, but -complaints were urged against Bahawul Khan, of not having duly exerted -himself in forwarding this object. Poor man! no doubt he entertained -strong fear regarding his own independence, after the military visit -with which he was now threatened--no British troops having marched this -road previously. Shah Soojah, with his motley contingent,[17] preceded -the column, and no doubt seized the lion's share of whatever supplies -he met with, and from his previous character, there is no reason to -suppose that Bahawul Khan entertained a high opinion of our royal -companion. - -Our army now marched in five columns, the sappers and miners in -advance, the cavalry-brigade next, and the three infantry-brigades in -succession, at intervals of one day's march between each brigade. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 11: It must be borne in mind that forts are not carried by -eastern nations with the celerity of modern art. A siege of two or -three years' duration being a matter of frequent occurrence.] - -[Footnote 12: "Koh-i-noor" means Mountain of Light, and is applied to a -diamond something less than a pigeon's egg!] - -[Footnote 13: Koutub means, literally, the pole. The title of the -emperor of that name was Koutub-ul-dien, or the pole-star of religion. -He reigned at Lahore and Delhi, and died about A.D. 1210.] - -[Footnote 14: This _magic_ garden had been imported from Lahore, and -planted during the night.] - -[Footnote 15: Viz., the news then received of the Persians having -retired from Herat.] - -[Footnote 16: The jhow is a shrub resembling the yew tree, and affords -good food for the camels.] - -[Footnote 17: This contingent consisted of raw Hindoo levies raised for -Shah Soojah's guard, in Afghanistan, amounting to about five thousand -men and four guns.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -ARRIVAL AT BAHAWULPORE--SIR HENRY FANE'S INTERVIEW WITH THE -KHAN--PROGRESS TO SCINDE ACROSS THE INDUS. - - -On the 29th of December, the cavalry-brigade reached Bahawulpore, in -the vicinity of which the country is richly cultivated. The view was -enlivened by hordes of Bahawul Khan's wild-looking cavalry, encamped -amongst the groves of palm and date trees in the neighbourhood. - -We marched into our camp near the city under a heavy fall of rain, and -were met by a son of the khan, who came to pay his respects to Sir -Willoughby Cotton, whilst his father visited Sir Henry Fane on board -his boats, which kept parallel with the army during its progress. - -On the 31st, Sir Henry returned the visit, attended by a numerous suite -of officers. Bahawul Khan made no efforts to display any splendour; -perhaps, he considered it politic to affect poverty in the presence of -the British chief. The conversation was as interesting as usual on the -like occasions, and ran, as well as I can remember, nearly as follows:-- - -SIR HENRY.--I come as the emissary of the British government, to offer -you their friendship. - -B. KHAN.--I am sensible of the condescension displayed towards me, both -by them and yourself, in granting this interview. - -SIR HENRY.--The British government are just and equitable, faithful to -their friends, terrible to their enemies, (looking very dignified, and -rather fierce.) - -B. KHAN.--I fully appreciate the magnitude of the British name, and see -their power. All I have is theirs, and I am your slave. - -SIR HENRY.--Now, talk we of other matters. Is not the climate unusually -cold for this season of the year, at Bahawulpore? - -B. KHAN.--It is, undoubtedly; but at the present moment, I feel neither -cold nor damp, whilst basking in the sunshine of your presence. - -Sir Henry was looking blue with cold, and stiff with dignity; so the -khan must have been of a fiery temperament if he spoke the truth. - -Such was the substance of the conversation that passed between the -two potentates; but setting bombast aside, Bahawul Khan has always -expressed to those officers who visited his capital the utmost respect -for the British, and an anxiety to preserve a sincere alliance. His -decision has been unquestionably politic; for, by placing himself under -British protection, he has saved his country from the rapacity of his -formidable neighbours, the Sikhs. - -The city of Bahawulpore is of considerable extent, and surrounded -by a dilapidated mud wall, about twelve feet in height and four in -thickness. The principal houses are built of brick, but huddled so -closely together, as to engender filth and heat to an unnecessary -degree. The khan's palace is in the centre of the town, and presents -as mean an exterior as the other houses. Of the interior, I can form -no estimate, not having visited it. The narrow bazaars were thronged -all day; and trade seemed to be flourishing briskly amongst the twenty -thousand inhabitants which Bahawulpore is said to contain. - -Woollens, hardware, and a variety of fruit, seemed to be the principal -articles exposed for sale; but the prevalent commodity is undoubtedly -filth. - -The men are certainly a larger, better looking, and more brawny race -than that of the upper provinces of Bengal. - -The women are so carefully wrapped in veils, that I was enabled to -catch only a faint glimpse of their faces, and a very indistinct one -of their figures; but the damsels of the East usually evince greater -anxiety to conceal their face than any other part of their persons. - -The only Bahawulpore fair ones I had a good opportunity of seeing and -speaking to, were some dancing-girls, attending the khan's party, -whilst in our camp. They were lively creatures, with very fair skins, -laughing black eyes, and the airy, graceful figures that are almost the -universal characteristic of Eastern belles. - -The city is about three miles distant from the Sutlej, which must ere -long be the grand channel of communication between the upper provinces -of Bengal and the Bombay presidency. Its turbid surface, now seldom -unruffled by aught save the occasional plunge of a startled alligator, -will soon resound to the cries of busy boatmen and the plash of -innumerable oars. - -On New Year's day, 1839, we resumed our march, bidding adieu to the -Sutlej, which diverges hence a little to the west, and unites its -waters with the Chinab, which, thirty miles below this confluence, -falls into the Indus. - -As we advanced, the desert continued on our left, cheerless as ever; -but at every ten or twelve miles, we found a halting-place at some -village, near which were usually some fields of grain, and invariably -good water. - -The stunted shrubs continued to afford us ample firewood, and the -occasional hamlets grain enough to feed our horses without indenting on -the commissariat stores. - -Khanpore, eight marches from Bahawulpore, is a city of considerable -extent, and occasionally the residence of Bahawul Khan, who visits it -on account of the abundance of wild boar and hog deer frequenting the -neighbouring jungles, many of which we saw in our shooting-excursions, -and occasionally on the line of march. - -The governor fired a royal salute as the cavalry-brigade marched -through the city, which compliment was cheaply returned (ammunition -being valuable) by our band striking up "God save the king!"--who the -monarchs were, to whom these royal honours were paid, we were unable to -ascertain. - -Here, many of our servants and camp-followers deserted during the -night; nor were we able to recover any of the runaways. There is a -track from hence to Hissar, across the desert, which they probably -took, being weary of the long march, and frightened by the account of -some fruit-merchants from Caubul, in camp, who expatiated on the cold -of Afghanistan and the ferocity of its inhabitants. - -Five marches beyond this place, brought us to the frontiers of the -Ameers of Scinde, where we were joined by Sir Alexander Burnes, who -seemed dubious of the peaceful disposition of the Hydrabad Ameers, -though their cousin of Khyrpoor professed his readiness to co-operate -in the free navigation of the Indus. - -This part of Upper Scinde is overgrown with thick jungle, which is -cleared in the neighbourhood of villages, to make room for crops of -jewar, coarse sugar-cane, and wheat. The natives seem a hardy and -industrious race; but the tribes of Beloochees, from the mountains on -the right bank of the Indus, infest the country, and are its bane, -exercising a despotic authority over the unfortunate and peaceable -Scindians, and plundering travellers and merchants of all countries who -venture this road without a sufficient protection. No sooner had we -crossed the boundary-line, than we were cautioned not to venture singly -any distance from camp, as these marauders were sure to be hovering in -the vicinity, on the look-out for plunder; and several camp-followers -were daily murdered by these savages for the sake of the few pieces of -silver in their possession, or, failing these, for the clothes they -wore; yet in spite of these numerous examples, the roving propensities -of our followers were not easily overcome. - -Hitherto, no communication had been received from Sir John Keane, who -was to land at Kurachee, one of the mouths of the Indus, and advance by -the right bank of the river to Shikarpore, having previously arranged -the terms of a treaty with the Ameers of Hydrabad, either amicably or -with the bayonet. - -When we had arrived within three marches of Bukkur Island and -fort, where it was intended that the army should cross the Indus, -intelligence was received from Sir John Keane, announcing his arrival -at Tatta, a large town on the right bank, about forty miles below -Hydrabad;[18] he had experienced great difficulties even in reaching -that place, from want of carriage, and the unfriendly disposition of -the Ameers. - -Hydrabad was fortified in the usual native fashion, and was said to be -garrisoned by more than twenty thousand Beloochees: confiding in these -troops, (or, at their dictation,) the Ameer had rejected the terms -proposed by the political agent, Colonel Pottinger, which were-- - - 1st. The payment of thirty lakhs of rupees, the arrears of tribute due - to Shah Soojah. - - 2ndly. To throw open, and promote by every means in their power, the - free navigation of the Indus. - - 3rdly. To support a force of four thousand troops to be quartered in - Scinde. - -It appeared far from surprising that the Ameers, who had always been -noted for a jealousy of intercourse with strangers, and especially -with the British, should have felt averse to comply with terms which -rendered Scinde, at one stroke of the pen, a mere dependency on our -colossal Eastern empire. - -On the march towards Bukkur, the jungle was so thick on each side of -the road, that the Scindians, had they been disposed to annoy us, had -many opportunities of effecting that object almost with impunity. -One morning, about daybreak, the advanced guard missed the road, -and led nearly the whole army astray in the woods, where the paths -branching in many directions, induced each party to wander according -to their fancy. Col. Ninny, an officer of remarkable intelligence, who -accompanied the party with which I was wandering, pushed resolutely -forward, insisting that the path he followed must be the right one. -"But surely, sir," remonstrated one of the officers, "this cannot be -the way, for we now face the rising sun, and our proper direction is -nearly west." The intellectual features of the gallant colonel were -contracted with ineffable scorn, as he replied, "And pray, sir, what -has the sun got to do with our road?" - -Though blind at the time to the acuteness of the observation, I have -since dwelt upon it, as singularly characteristic of that gifted -individual, who, with a steady perseverance, has braved obstacles, -which, (as in the present case,) judged by the fallacious test of -reason, would have appeared to ordinary men insuperable! Unhappily, in -this instance, the combinations of that _great mind_ were not allowed -time for development, as an aide-de-camp rode up, and pointing to the -rear, indicated that the road lay in that direction, and the general -would be happy to see us on it. - -On the morning of the 25th of January we marched up to the town of -Rohree and encamped on the banks of the Indus. - -Rohree is built on a flinty rock that rises abruptly on the left -side of the river, which had hitherto been low and full of dangerous -quicksands. A range of bare hills, trending to the south, run from -Rohree, throughout lower Scinde, and terminate in the Delta, a few -miles from the sea. From the southern part of the town, a thick grove -of bastard date-trees extends many miles along the river's banks, -adding considerably to the beauty of the view. In the river, opposite -to Rohree, and between it and Sukkur, stands the important island and -fortress of Bukkur. The site is low and sandy, but the fort, which is -built of brick, stands about thirty feet in height, and is commanded -from either bank, as the Indus is less than eight hundred yards in -breadth at this season. - -From Sukkur, on the opposite shore, the bank rises to a considerable -elevation, opposing a barrier to the encroachment of the waters at -the periods of inundation. On the left shore, the whole country is -intersected by watercourses, made for the purpose of retaining the -water after the inundation, which is said to cover a large extent of -country. - -A few miles from Rohree are the ruins of the ancient city of Alore, -which present to the view an extensive field of devastation. They -afford little interest to the traveller, as the few edifices standing -are so dilapidated, and the imagery so nearly effaced, as to baffle the -researches of the most patient antiquarian. The indefatigable Burnes -has pursued the subject with his usual intelligence, but such matters -afford more scope for conjecture than research, as the earlier periods -of Indian history are deeply involved in darkness and fable. We were, -however, informed by a learned aide-de-camp of the commander-in-chief, -that Alexander the Great had halted there for two days, and he even -indicated the position of the royal pavilion with as much confidence -as if he had been present on the occasion, which placed the question -beyond a doubt. - -The river was now a scene of much activity, the chief engineer being -engaged in collecting boats to form a bridge to Sukkur, which required -a numerous assemblage, the distance to Bukkur island being nearly 400 -yards, though beyond it the channel was very narrow. - -Ameer Roostum Khan, to whom this part of Scinde belonged, was residing -at Khyrpore, about fifteen miles from Rohree, and came into camp the -day after our arrival, to visit the commander-in-chief. The treaty -above mentioned was shown to him, and he laid it on his head in token -of obedience. The hostile disposition of his relatives at Hydrabad -being alluded to, he urged the improbability of their offering any -resistance, and entreated permission to negotiate with them. - -Sir Henry Fane replied that the day for any mediation had passed, and -broke up the Durbar, by inviting the Ameer to ride with him and see -the troops, which would march the following day towards Hydrabad, to -co-operate with Sir John Keane in enforcing the terms proposed. - -Meer Roostum, mounting his horse, accompanied Sir Henry along the line, -appearing far from at his ease whilst inspecting the display of force -which reduced him to a vassal, and was intended to operate against his -kinsmen. - -Arrangements were then made for the cession of Bukkur island fort, -to be garrisoned by a British force, which he assented to with great -reluctance, but it was then too late to raise objections, as the net -for Scinde was cast, and he had become entangled in its meshes. The -second and third day, however, passed without any intimation being -given that the fort was at our service, and the force intended for -Hydrabad having been delayed in consequence, Sir Henry resolved -to wait no longer. On the evening of the 30th, a sepoy regiment, -accompanied by Sir Willoughby Cotton, embarked from Rohree, to occupy -Bukkur, and two guns were posted above the town to command the fort in -case of resistance. - -The squadron to which I belonged was that evening on picket near the -town, from whence we had a favourable position for observing the -operations of this memorable siege. The boats were off, and we now -fancied we saw the garrison training a large gun on the walls to bear -against the fleet. All stood in breathless expectation for the signal -which would, in all probability, kindle far and wide the devastating -flames of war. - -The troops now reached the island, and as yet no shot had been fired; -admittance was demanded, and no answer returned. Sir Willoughby ordered -a skin filled with powder to be attached to the gate and fired, and -whilst a party were in the act of obeying this order, the portals were -suddenly thrown open, and we observed the garrison, amounting perhaps -to _twenty_ in number, not in the act of levelling their matchlocks at -the intruders, but more prudently sallying from a side postern, and -quietly dropping down the river towards Hydrabad. - -The transition was so sudden and absurd, that a general burst of -laughter issued from the spectators at sight of the formidable -garrison, which was expected to make so daring a resistance. - -That evening the fort was occupied by a regiment of native infantry, -and before the sun went down we beheld the British flag slowly unfold -itself to the evening breeze, and float for the first time in authority -over the waters of the majestic Indus. - -Early next morning, the cavalry, artillery, and first brigade of -infantry, under Colonel Sale, commenced their march towards Hydrabad. -Accounts were rife in camp that a force of six or seven thousand -Beloochees were lying in ambush to attack us on the march, or fail on -our camp during the night, and therefore the cavalry threw out parties -in advance to feel for these hidden savages. For the first six miles, -we marched in a thick grove of bastard date trees, the road through -which was flanked by mud walls about six feet high--a glorious chance -for the Beloochee tirailleurs, which they unwisely neglected. Emerging -from this grove, we entered a well-cultivated, though woody country, -and plainly discovered the traces of a camp broken up that morning. The -force (whatever it might have been) were no doubt retreating before us -upon Hydrabad. - -Accounts were this day received that Sir John Keane had been detained -some days at Jerrikh, two marches from Hydrabad, but had arrived at -Kotra, on the right bank of the Indus, and nearly opposite Hydrabad. -The following day, native reports reached us that the Beloochees had -floated across the Indus on rafts supported on Kedgeree pots,[19] and -routed the British forces; but we unanimously concluded that the Ameers -were on far too bad terms with his excellency to think of crossing the -river and taking such _pot luck_ with the British. - -Shah Soojah, who had reached Shikarpore, with his contingent, some days -before our arrival at Rohree, was now marching on the right bank of the -Indus towards Larkhana, which place (a city of the Hydrabad Ameers) he -occupied with little resistance. - -No baggage being allowed to precede our column on the line of march, -and the weather becoming exceedingly hot, we suffered severely from the -heat before our tents came up, which they rarely did before mid-day, -and on a long march not till considerably later. - -The soil in this district is fertile and well cultivated, and -the population must be considerable, judging from the numerous -well-inhabited villages we passed, where the natives regarded us in -a friendly light, and brought abundance of supplies into camp. The -rule of the Ameers is far from popular amongst the Scindians; and -the tribes of marauding Beloochees, whom the Ameers confessed their -inability to restrain, are of course viewed with horror by the peaceful -agriculturists, who therefore hailed us in the light of deliverers. -Their intercourse with our camp-followers, who, having long worn the -collar, were no doubt willing to see it encircle strange necks also, -tended to encourage this amicable disposition. - -The fifth march from Rohree, we closed with the river near Noona -Goth, where the lower range of the Hala mountains were distinctly -seen, trending, apparently, in a direct line towards the Indus. These -mountains, the Scindians told us, were about forty miles distant. The -seventh march, we reached Kanjaree, a frontier town of the Hydrabad -district, where, in the course of the morning, a courier arrived from -Sir J. Keane, announcing the submission of the Hydrabad Ameers. They -had held out, it appeared, until the appearance of the British forces -on the bank of the river opposite the capital, when, after frequent -unsuccessful negotiations, a treaty was at length concluded by Colonel -Pottinger, with the modification that no British troops should be -quartered in Hydrabad. In signing this treaty, the Ameers declared they -were acting in opposition to the wishes of their soldiery, and that in -doing so they sealed irrevocably their own doom. - -Thus ended our chance of a golden harvest in Hydrabad, then known to be -one of the richest cities of the East; the policy which saved it for -a few years ended in annexing the lands to the British possessions, -and in consigning the rulers to captivity: but the merits of this -subject now form a matter of debate between two of the most gallant and -accomplished soldiers of the age, Sir C. Napier and Colonel Outram. - -We now turned our heads and thoughts towards Afghanistan with a -pleasanter prospect for the ensuing summer than that of passing it -under canvas in Scinde, which is notoriously one of the hottest and -most unhealthy parts of the world.[20] - -We reached Rohree in a week, retracing the route by which we had -advanced, and found that the bridge of boats across the Indus had been -completed, and that the part of our force which had remained behind at -Rohree, commenced the transit on the 14th of February. - -Having halted three days, we crossed the river at sunrise in single -files, dismounted, and leading our horses, such being deemed the safest -method. The passage was effected without a single accident, even to the -baggage. The bridge was firmly constructed, and well moored, reflecting -credit on Captain Thompson, of the Bengal engineers, under whose -direction it had been formed. The stream near the left bank ran with -great velocity; but as we approached Bukkur Island, there was little -or none; beyond the fort, the bridge was scarcely a hundred yards in -length, and the current very weak. Four hundred and ninety yards were -mentioned, in general orders, as the distance bridged; but the portion -of the island we crossed must have been upwards of two hundred and -fifty yards in breadth. - -We now, for the first time, marched in rear of the army; and on our -arrival at Shikarpore, found the whole force, including Shah Soojah and -his new levies, encamped round the city. - -Shikarpore stands in a barren and desolate-looking plain, which well -assorts with the white and mouldering mud walls surrounding the place. -This was the general depôt of supplies for the army; but in lieu of the -commodious and well-stocked shops we had expected to see, we found the -bazaar little superior to Bahawulpore, or even Rohree, except being -somewhat larger and more thronged, if possible, than that of the former -place. - -On entering the busy scene, the first object that strikes the visitor -is the pale, business-like money-changer, his anxious forehead bedaubed -with the white paint of his caste, peering over the pyramids of silver -and copper heaped ostentatiously before him. Opposite, wrangling -with half a dozen sepoys, in voices that might wake the dead, stands -the noisy, energetic cloth-merchant, extolling his wares amidst the -altercation with a fluency that would break the heart of a London Jew -clothesman. - -On each side, as you struggle onward, are squatted, in the peculiar -Oriental fashion, vendors of dried fruits, seeds, spices, opium, -_cum plurimis aliis_; but your good-natured Arab charger halts in -despair at the shop where yonder greasy cook is flourishing in his -long, bony hands a wooden ladle, with which he bedaubs, in oily -costume, a hissing mass of kabobs, or kidneys, which are emitting a -savoury odour throughout that quarter of the bazaar, and engaging the -attention of an impenetrable cloud of half-famished-looking wretches -watching the inviting process. On extricating your embarrassed steed -from this difficulty, and moving up another bazaar, at right angles -to the former, the ears are saluted with the stunning and monotonous -clang proceeding from the anvils of armorers and blacksmiths, who -continue their noisy labour with an assiduity that, conjointly with -their hissing fires and diabolical countenances, give an unpleasant -presentiment of the world below. - -Speckle the scene with a number of savage-looking fellows in dingy -dresses, with matchlocks slung over their shoulders, a pair of -business-like pistols, and a greasy-handled knife stuck in their belt, -whilst a broad, iron-handled tolwar brings up the rear, and you will -complete the best picture I can afford of Shikarpore bazaar, with its -lazy, lounging soldiery. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 18: Sir J. Keane's forces were about three thousand five -hundred men, and thirty guns.] - -[Footnote 19: A common way of crossing rivers in the East, the pots -being bound together by a framework of bamboo.] - -[Footnote 20: The reserve force from Bombay, which occupied Scinde soon -after our departure, (amounting to about three thousand men,) bore -witness to its qualities in both respects.] - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -ADVANCE FROM SHIKARPORE--PASSAGE THROUGH THE BOLAN PASS INTO -AFGHANISTAN--ADVANCE FROM QUETTA. - - -Sir John Keane's force was advancing by another route, nearer the foot -of the mountains of Beloochistan, towards the Bolan pass; and Sir -Willoughby Cotton, thinking it prudent to secure that defile with the -least possible delay, pushed on after one day's halt at Shikarpore. -The commissariat subsequently urged this rapid advance as the cause of -many difficulties, alleging that they had no time given them to make -arrangements for the conveyance of supplies. - -To enhance these difficulties, an order arrived from Sir John Keane, -directing a large number of camels to be furnished by the Bengal -commissariat for the supply of the Bombay troops, who were almost at -a stand-still for want of carriage.[21] We had now scarcely a month's -supplies for the army, and were about to enter a country of which -little was known beyond native reports of its remarkable barrenness. -Mehrab Khan of Kebat, the most influential chief of this portion of -Beloochistan, had given the British agent assurances of furnishing the -army with supplies, and, relying on his assistance, the forces advanced -towards those sterile regions. - -Mr. M'Naghten (the envoy to Cabul) received intelligence of the -pass being occupied by the enemy, but he did not deem the source a -creditable one; however, military precautions were properly taken, -supposing the information correct. - -The first march from Shikarpore was partly through a low jungle, which -yielded, as we advanced, to a barren plain, that had lain apparently -under water, and been recently dried by the powerful effects of the -sun, which had cracked the surface with innumerable fissures. Not a -shrub nor a blade of grass was visible, as far as the eye could reach, -around this desert, which was bounded on our front by a lofty barrier -of mountains, at about a hundred miles' distance. We had become nearly -reconciled to barren views when they caused us no inconvenience beyond -unsightliness; but when, after a wearisome night-march of twenty-eight -miles over the desert, we reached our halting-place, where only two or -three wells of muddy and brackish water (and these nearly exhausted) -were found, matters began to look serious for man and quadrupeds. - -Orders were sent to the rear to stop the progress of the army, whilst -a wing of the 16th Lancers were detached, as a reconnoitring party, in -advance. We started in the evening, and marched, till the following -morning was well advanced, over precisely the same picturesque country, -as far as the imperfect light showed us, for about thirty miles, when -our eyes were rejoiced by the sight of a clear, rippling stream in the -desert, near whose banks patches of grass and small fields of young -wheat were growing, announcing the grateful intelligence of the desert -being passed. Those who have suffered the pangs of thirst in a hot -climate will estimate the feelings of the cavalcade as they hastened -to avail themselves of the watery blessing. - -Over the blighted waste we had crossed, (the Putt,) the deadly simoom -occasionally blows in the hot season. Fortunately for us, we made the -transit when the climate was moderate; but four months afterwards, two -melancholy tragedies occurred to detachments marching to join the army -in Afghanistan. - -A portion of a native infantry regiment, escorting treasure from -Shikarpore, were passing the desert in the night, when they mistook the -way, and wandered the greater part of the next day in search of the -track without meeting with any water to moisten their parched throats. -One after another, they dropped, until two officers and twenty-one -sepoys were lost. The remainder, many of them delirious, found the -track and a stream of water in the evening. - -The second catastrophe occurred to an officer of her Majesty's 17th -Regiment, who with a Serjeant and twelve men was sent to recover a gun -which had stuck in the sand. The difficulty was greater than had been -anticipated, and they were detained till mid-day, by which time the -officer and eight men had fallen victims to the sun, and died raving -mad. The serjeant and four men returned, debilitated for life, to -report the success of the expedition. - -The forces gradually closed to the front on receiving the report of the -reconnoitring party. - -Several marauding Beloochees, who had been hovering near us, -committed a most impudent depredation here on some camels, which they -carried off in broad daylight. General Thackwell, who was one of the -sufferers, ordered a squadron in pursuit. Away we went, in full cry, -at a hand-gallop, across some ten miles of country, mostly rocky, -and intersected by numerous ravines; here and there, the steep and -dangerous chasms were so artfully hid that it required a keen eye to -avoid them. At length, we came to a halt, no Beloochees in sight, and -our list of casualties great: three horses lame, and ten horses and -men missing, who had been deposited in the cavities by the way. We -now scoured the country in every direction, but found no suspicious -characters, except in a small village, where the inhabitants forthwith -protested vehemently that they were exceedingly honest people, which, -of course, led us to suppose the contrary. It was now getting dark; -and having no further evidence against the villagers beyond their own -professions, we abandoned the pursuit, and reached camp soon after -nightfall. - -We resumed our march towards the mountains through a better country; -water was abundant, and occasionally a little grass was procurable for -the horses, who were beginning to look much jaded. - -On the morning of the 10th of March, we reached Dadur, which is close -to the foot of a continuous chain of barren, rocky hills, and four -miles from the gorge of the Bolan Pass. At this place, hopes were -entertained that an abundance of supplies would be awaiting. Alas! -there were none--the commissariat were informed that the force had not -been expected so soon, (a fortunate excuse,) and that consequently -little was to be procured. - -The melancholy truth transpired: there was absolutely not one day's -provision for the army, and we were led to infer a similar fate at -the places upon which we were about to march. The consequence was, -an immediate reduction to half rations for man and beast; and Sir -Willoughby saw that he had now no alternative but to push on through -the mountain-pass, and take the chance of what might be found on the -other side. - -Major Cureton, of the 16th Lancers, who had been detached with -a squadron of native cavalry, and a wing of a sepoy regiment of -infantry, reported that no enemy was to be seen, but that forage was -nearly equally scarce the first three marches in the Pass. The Bengal -column being assembled at Dadur, orders were issued to advance, the -cavalry-brigade being now preceded by the first brigade of infantry -under Colonel Sale. - -At daybreak, we reached the gorge of the Pass, which is wide enough -to admit a regiment of cavalry in line. The road is level, but rocky; -and through the centre runs a clear stream, with an abundance of long, -coarse grass, nearly resembling dried flags, on its banks. The hills, -without a sign of vegetation on them, rise abruptly on each side, at -first, five or six hundred feet, but gradually increase in elevation -as you advance. Our first day's march continued to follow the course -of the mountain stream, on whose banks we encamped, surrounded by -desolate and rocky hills. The camels had no food but the reedy grass, -which contained little nutriment; but for our horses we had provided -better, by carrying on from Dadur two days' supply of green forage. In -the night, an alarm was given that the Beloochees had come down from -the hills, and carried off some camels. As I happened to be on picket, -a detail of my party went in pursuit, but no vestige of the robbers was -found, and the clouds, which had long been lowering, now gave us such -a sprinkling, that it was impossible to see twenty yards off, so the -pursuit was abandoned. - -In consequence of the tents being saturated with rain in the night, -our march was deferred till mid-day, to give them a chance of being -dried, for a wet tent and a bad road soon render camels unserviceable. -We continued to march, henceforth, at mid-day, the weather being cool; -and although a strong guard accompanied the baggage, the Beloochees -managed to pounce upon some daily, plundering the camels and murdering -our camp-followers. The infantry had frequent skirmishes with these -marauders, but rarely succeeded in capturing any, so nimbly did the -scoundrels mount the craggy sides of the mountains with their plunder -and conceal themselves in ravines and caverns, which could only be -approached at great disadvantage by the assailants. - -The second march, we could scarcely move three abreast in many places, -owing to the narrowness of the passage, (a chasm through a rocky -mountain,) along which dashed a torrent, not deep, but extremely -rapid. The sharp stones in its bed lacerated the horses' feet a -good deal, and took rather severe effect on our bare-legged native -followers. A man and horse belonging to the rear-guard of the 16th -Lancers were lost on this march, but how the former lost his life is -uncertain--he dropped behind his comrades on the line of march, and was -never again seen alive. - -Our three next marches were through a plain, environed by an -amphitheatre of distant and lofty hills; but the road was rough, nor -was there any appearance of vegetation to cheer the miserable cattle. -The camels dropped daily on the route in great numbers; and many a -tent, camel-trunk, and wine-chest, fell into the hands of our ruthless -enemies the Beloochees, who doubtless celebrated several midnight -orgies with our lamented luxuries.[22] - -Three seers of grain (6 lbs.) per horse, and no grass, had reduced our -steeds to mere apparitions, Scholastikos that stumbled mechanically -onwards, having almost reached the valuable habit of living on nothing. -The result was nearly the same as that which attended the horse of the -Σχολαστικος, in the Greek fable, whose animal had learned to live upon -nothing, but died shortly after trying the experiment. - -Having ascended to a considerable height, the climate was fine, and we -experienced no inconvenience from the sun; but so dreary and oppressive -to the spirits were these bleak and craggy mountains that frowned over -us, and so jaded were man and beast, that it was with feelings of great -relief in anticipation that we approached the termination of the dismal -Bolan defile. - -The most formidable position throughout the pass was certainly that -which we reached just previously to quitting the above-named range of -mountains. Having marched at mid-day, and ascended rapidly for about -seven miles, we arrived at the passage I allude to, which was about -twelve yards in width, over each side of which the high craggy hills -beetled in irregular and threatening shapes. For a distance of about -two miles we pursued the sinuous passage through this chasm,[23] -looking upwards in amazement to find so formidable a succession of -natural fortresses unoccupied, from whence a resolute body of troops -might have effectually checked our progress. A short distance beyond -its gorge, we descended into an extensive plain, covered with a small -aromatic plant resembling wild thyme, on which our cattle fed with -avidity, and no wonder, for from recent appearances they must have -conjectured that the earth had ceased to vegetate. Here, we expected -to encamp; but water was found to be so scarce that the cavalry were -ordered to proceed. We marched along the foot of a dark range of -hills, from which the numerous lights glimmering through the darkness -announced our old friends the Beloochees on the alert. About midnight, -after a tedious march of thirty miles, we arrived at Sir-i-ab, which -is called the outlet of the pass, although even here we lay in a -valley flanked by lofty hills, whose summits were covered with snow. -Of course, no tents or provisions arrived that night, but we were all -too fatigued to grumble properly, and a cloak and saddle soon proved -themselves effectually soothing. - -After a halt of three days, the principal part of the force advanced -to Quetta, a small fortified town, ten miles from Sir-i-ab, and about -three from the hills on either side. - -The plain was covered with the same scented plant we had seen before. -Mint, tulips, hyacinths, and a great variety of wild flowers, -enlivened the face of the soil. - -Near the foot of the hills were several villages, mostly deserted, and -groves of apple, pear, apricot, and plum trees, the luxuriant foliage -and blossoms of which reminded us of the gardens of our beloved native -country. The inhabitants of Quetta and its vicinity were rather shy at -first, but finding we did not plunder them, they concluded we must be a -set of fools, and resolved to profit by the opportunity. - -Small quantities of grain, fruit, and lucerne were brought into our -camp and sold at exorbitant prices; however, after the experiments -which had been tried on our cattle and horses, we were only too happy -to try and prolong their lives at any cost. Here the startling truth -soon became known, that Mehrab Khan had formed no depôt of grain for -the army. Sir Alexander Burnes, with Lieut. Pattinson and a few local -horse, set out for Mehrab's residence, about eighty miles distant, in -the hopes of inducing that treacherous chief to assist in procuring -supplies; but this resource was now known to be almost desperate. In -the meantime, foraging parties of cavalry ranged the country daily to -procure fodder in the villages and amongst the fields. - -Fortunately for us, a fine breed of sheep, known as the Dhoomba,[24] -abounded here, and afforded no mean exchange for the tough and muscular -flesh of such animals as had been brought from Bengal, and had -walked into incredible condition, insomuch that they were now better -calculated for supplying the artillery with traces than the soldiers -with food. - -Since entering Afghanistan, we remarked a material improvement in the -dimensions and looks of the inhabitants, compared to the natives of the -other side of the Bolan mountains. Their dress was mostly composed of -sheepskins, camels'-hair, and other warm materials, requisite from the -coldness of the climate, even at this season: the thermometer stood -about freezing-point at daybreak; but Quetta is table land, nearly six -thousand feet above the sea. - -Women, except the old or very young, were nowhere to be seen, so -prevalent were their unjust suspicions of our behaviour. - -Our diet was now one that should have gladdened the heart of the -doctors, (of course I speak only of military ones,) being confined to -bread, mutton, and water; for those who had been fortunate enough to -get wines and other luxuries as far as the Bolan pass, had almost all -been obliged to drop them ere they quitted that gloomy defile, to carry -absolute requisites, such as a tent and clothes; and fortunate were -they who even accomplished that object throughout the campaign. - -As there were few regiments able to keep up a mess, an application -was made by the officers to be allowed to draw the same rations as -were issued to the soldiers. This was refused; but subsequently we -were allowed to draw on the commissariat for one bottle each week of a -fiery, unwholesome spirit, made in India, and called arrack. - -The audacious attacks made upon our people and cattle by the Kaukers, -a tribe of hill-bandits, made it hazardous for any one to stray beyond -the outposts. Every night some unfortunate camp followers, returning -from seeking grass or tending cattle, were murdered, and usually -mutilated in a wanton and barbarous manner. - -Before leaving Quetta, an opportunity occurred for a small retaliation -on the savages. - -An alarm having been given early in the day that a party of Kaukers -were hovering near the outposts, Lieut. Yule, of the 16th Lancers, who -was on picket with a party of his regiment, turned out in pursuit. -Within two miles of camp, he perceived a party of about thirty Kaukers, -armed with swords and matchlocks, retiring towards the hills on foot; -when pursued at speed, they fired and wounded one of the Lancers, and -separating, some escaped to the hills, whilst others threw themselves -into a small mud fort, whence they fired on the cavalry party, but -without effect. Yule, having dismounted his men, scaled the fort, -killed seven inside, and took one prisoner, mortally wounded, whom Sir -J. Keane (who had just arrived in camp, and assumed command of the -army) immediately ordered to be hanged. The next evening ten more who -had been taken prisoners were also hanged on trees near Quetta. - -Notwithstanding this salutary example, a daring attack was made -immediately afterwards on our cattle, by two or three hundred of the -same tribe. At mid-day they issued from the mountains, cut down several -surwans,[25] and carried off a number of camels; but a wing of an -infantry regiment and a squadron of cavalry coming up, the marauders -retired, driving their booty to the hills, which were so precipitous, -that many of the camels were recovered, being abandoned by the Kaukers -in their retreat amongst their native crags. - -Sir Alexander Burnes having reached Mehrab Khan's residence, now sent -intimation that no assistance could be expected from that chief, who, -so far from procuring grain for the army, had instigated the tribes -to annoy us in every way, and to conceal or carry away the produce of -the country. Time could not now be wasted in punishing Mehrab for his -duplicity, but a day of severe retribution awaited him on the return of -the Bombay division of the army from Caubul. - -Our position was now far from comfortable. If the army advanced, and -all supplies were removed out of our way by the natives, starvation and -the loss of all our cattle appeared the probable result. And in case -of a retreat through the Bolan pass, every crag would, of course, have -held an enemy to oppose such invaders. Independently of this, the moral -effect of a retreat at the commencement of a campaign would have been -in the last degree disastrous; yet such an alternative was advocated by -many officers on whose shoulders the main responsibility did not rest. -Sir John Keane could not but see that entering the Bolan pass was the -passage of the Rubicon, and orders were issued for the army to advance -towards Kandahar on the morning of the 7th of April: the men were -reduced to an allowance of one pound of flour, and non-combatants to -half a pound per diem; meat and spirits were issued as usual. - -No grain was in store for the cavalry, but the horse artillery were -allotted rations of three seers a horse daily, without which the guns -could never have been drawn. The cavalry troop horses subsisted almost -entirely on green wheat, collected by foraging parties. The officers -were occasionally able to purchase small quantities of barley, or -Indian corn, for their chargers, by paying an exorbitant sum to an -Afghan extortioner. - -On the morning we left Quetta, fifty horses of the cavalry brigade were -shot, in the lines, being too weak to carry their load. This melancholy -process of slaughtering horses was repeated daily, before or on the -march. - -The first morning, on leaving Quetta, we descended, through a steep -and rocky pass, into an extensive valley. A few scattered villages -were seen, whose inhabitants had betaken themselves to the hills, -whence they sallied occasionally to commit atrocities on any stragglers -from the lines in retaliation for the damages committed by the camp -followers on their habitations, and by our horses on their corn fields. - -It was carefully circulated amongst the natives who came near us, -that grain and all other supplies would be paid for, and also that -a reimbursement would be made for damages done to their property. It -was further hinted to them that we were friends (not enemies) who were -bringing a virtuous monarch to rule their country; but this they were -unable to comprehend. - -As we advanced, however, the same system prevailed with the -inhabitants, and not a soul was to be seen in the villages or on the -line of march, except when levelling a matchlock from some almost -inaccessible crag. Our foraging parties occasionally found young wheat -fields, which were demolished in a few minutes; but had it not been -for that inestimable little aromatic shrub, which grew in the most -hopeless solitudes, it would have been impossible for us to proceed, as -it afforded almost the only food for the camels and beasts of burden, -as well as fuel for the army, which it would have been a difficulty -to dispense with, man having been essentially a cooking animal from -the days of Prometheus, before whose well authenticated exploits it is -difficult to say how mortals fared. - -Having crossed a succession of rocky mountains and barren valleys, the -fourth march from Quetta brought us to the Pisheen valley, which is -said to be the best cultivated part of lower Afghanistan, which it -might well be without exhibiting much fertility. - -The valley is very extensive, and appeared, as we advanced into it, to -be well inhabited. The corn and barley fields were rich and numerous. -The natives of Pisheen had not deserted their homes, and flocked to -our camp, bringing camels, horses, bullocks, sheep, and grain for -sale, but all at the same exorbitant rate which had been exacted at -Quetta. The better class of inhabitants, terming themselves Synds, or -descendants of the Prophet, (the prolific Mahomet,) were well attired, -and certainly the finest men I have seen in the East. I was much taken -with a richly-mounted cimeter worn by a noble-looking Afghan, and -endeavoured to tempt his cupidity by offering in exchange a pair of -English pistols liberally bedizened with silver ornaments, money being -out of the question, as that article was more than usually scarce, -and more than usually necessary, in those days of famine: but though -the pistols took his fancy much, they still did not succeed, and he -returned them, saying, "It would be unjust to take these weapons which -you will soon stand in need of, for the Ameers of Kandahar will meet -you in the field before you have approached much nearer their city." -"We shall be happy to see them," I replied, "and after the rencontre, -cimeters will be cheap and plentiful in the British camp." - -The Synd had some authority for his assertion, as that day intelligence -was received that the Kandahar chiefs were concerting measures to -oppose our advance. - -Kandahar was under the control of three princes, Kohun Dil, Raheem Dil, -and Mehn Dil, Khans, brothers of Dost Mahomed, but never on amicable -terms with the Caubul monarch. - -The authority of the Kandahar chiefs had been long unpopular; but -of late their oppressive rule had rendered them more odious, as the -exactions on the inhabitants had been increased in order to levy an -army to oppose the British invasion. - -The northern side of the Pisheen valley is crossed by a range of -mountains called the Kojuck, a rugged pass leading to Kandahar. -Brigadier Arnold rode forward in the evening to reconnoitre this -defile, and, on reaching its gorge, found the heights occupied by a -party of horsemen, who fired upon him; but a small party of sappers -ascended and dislodged them. A spy was also observed lurking near camp -at night, and was shot by a sentry of the 13th Light Infantry. - -The 1st brigade of infantry led the way through the Kojuck pass, and -were followed next morning by the Cavalry Brigade, who started two -hours before daybreak. On entering the pass, about five miles from -camp, we found it completely blocked by the camels of the preceding -brigade. Having halted for about three hours, until these obstacles -were removed, we commenced the ascent--the dragoons dismounting and -leading their horses, whilst a party was detached from each squadron to -assist in dragging the guns of the Horse Artillery. - -The dry bed of a torrent, winding round the foot of a precipitous -mountain, was the course by which we commenced the ascent. Having -followed this track a few hundred yards, we struck off on a road which -our sappers had cut on the side of the mountain, and up which the guns -were drawn with considerable labour. We were occupied a great part of -the day in surmounting this steep and rough ascent, casting into the -ravine beneath the dead bodies of men, camels, and bullocks, who had -been murdered the night before by our restless old friends the Kaukers. - -By four o'clock in the afternoon, the cavalry and artillery reached -the summit of the pass. From this elevated position we looked down on -a barren, extensive plain, on the edge of which the snowy tents of -the 1st brigade formed the only interesting object, as they intimated -a termination of our labours for the day. A fine mountain breeze was -whistling over the heights and overcame the sun's influence. - -We were astonished that the Kandahar chiefs had not occupied this -defile, which had taken us much labour to surmount even with the -indispensable aid of the sappers, and unmolested by the enemy. - -With the aid of our glasses, we discerned a few spies or marauders -(probably both) among the rocky peaks, watching our proceedings, but -keeping out of musket-shot from the native infantry pickets, which -crowned the neighbouring heights. - -Our descent of the Kojuck was even more precipitous than the ascent, -and many a horse and camel ended his weary career on this precipice -during the night. - -When we bivouacked at sunset, the agreeable intelligence was made -known of no water having yet been discovered, and of course no food -was procurable, the commissariat stores being far behind. The soldiers -stood the want of food for twenty-four hours of hard labour without a -murmur; but when they heard no water was procurable, they gave vent -to many a hearty malediction on these inhospitable regions. Several -started off to the hills with waterskins on their backs, and returned -after a long search, the greater part unsuccessful, but some few with a -little filthy mud and water, which was swallowed with an avidity that -extreme thirst only could produce. - -As very few tents had made their appearance, and the night was wearing -apace, we laid ourselves on the least rocky piece of ground that we -could select in the dark, and rested till three in the morning, when -the musical invitation of the trumpet called us again to the saddle, -and, after a march of eighteen miles across the desert plain, and under -a sun which, in these lower regions, did not spare us, we came at -length to a small pond of dirty water, where we halted. - -I threw myself down beside this inestimable puddle completely -exhausted; and my horse having taken a drink, which threatened rivalry -with Munchausen's notorious steed, followed my example; but our repose -was soon cruelly interrupted by a requisition for our services on -outlying picket, some two miles in advance. We both arose, stretching -and shaking ourselves into consciousness; my charger certainly yawned -widest, although I explained to him how much he had the best of it, as -no dread of a court-martial need await him for sleeping on his post. - -My tents and servants did not arrive till late next evening, having -been absent three days without leave, and leaving me to luxuriate -during that time in the same clothing, and on a loaf of tolerably -hard and stale ammunition bread, about the _weight_, size, and -_consistency_, of a twelve-pound shot. - -We had been compelled to halt here, to enable the rear-guard to come -up, who had been frequently fired on by the Kaukers; but no casualties -occurred, which does not say much for our enemies as marksmen, though -the long rifle, termed a "jezzail," which they use with a forked rest, -carries a great distance, and with tolerable accuracy, when properly -handled. - -Some camels and servants belonging to the rear-brigades were shot in -the transit of the Kojuck Pass, and many of the officers' and soldiers' -tents and baggage were plundered; but these unaccountable mountain -warriors almost invariably allowed the cavalry to pass unscathed -through defiles, where they would have been almost helpless if attacked. - -Amongst other troubles and privations, we had now daily to reckon the -badness and scarcity of water. The wells being dug in ground whose -surface was white with saltpetre,[26] we found the water partook so -strongly of this mineral, that it was not only nauseous to the taste, -but affected man and beast with a diarrhoea, which, combined with the -fatigues and exposure to which all had been subjected, reduced the -greater part to a debilitated condition. - -As we had descended a good deal since leaving Quetta, the heat of the -sun daily increased; and although we marched every morning long before -daybreak, the roads were so bad and our cattle so weak from want of -sustenance, that we had generally to pass the noon-day unsheltered. - -On the 23rd of April, we had, according to the most prevalent -conjectures, arrived within about fifty miles of Kandahar, and met no -enemy. Having marched about twelve miles in the morning, we reached our -appointed ground for halting about nine A.M., when some assistants, -in the quartermaster-general's department, reported to the brigadier -of the cavalry that the water in camp[27] would barely suffice for -a brigade of infantry. We were accordingly ordered to remount, and -proceed towards a river, which was supposed to be some ten miles' -distant. Few who were present will ever forget that dreadful march. -The reflection of the sun from the burning dust and barren hills was -so dazzling, that many who underwent it have never recovered their -strength of sight. We had marched about ten miles, when the halt was -sounded. It was mid-day; about twenty men of the leading regiment held -together, the remainder of the cavalry-brigade were straggling over -four or five miles of country in the rear; some were urging their jaded -beasts with the spur, some leading them on foot, and others driving -their chargers before them at the point of the lance or sword. But far -the hottest thing I beheld that day, was the talented Colonel Ninny, -purple with heat and anger, and seeking an object to vent it upon. - -"Where the devil is your squadron, sir?" was demanded, in a voice of -thunder, of a ponderous captain, with a face like a salamander, and a -corporation like a hogshead. - -"Four miles behind, sir, at least," replied the hogshead, proud of -having got so far along the road, (as well he might be.) - -"How dare you, sir, give me such an answer, and leave your squadron -behind?" cried the enraged genius. - -Poor hogshead, frothing with excitement, turned round in search of -relief, and lighting on the officer in charge of his troop, poured -forth the full tide of his indignation on him for not bringing the -stragglers to the front. - -"And pray, sir, where is my troop?" - -"Here are the serjeant-major and two privates; the remainder vary from -four to five miles in the rear; and as I could not carry them, they are -left behind," replied the troop-leader. - -"There is no excuse," cried Ninny. - -"But, sir----" - -"Hold your tongue, and join your troop." - -This was conclusive, and broke up the agreeable interview. - -When the sun had begun to decline upon the scene of suffering he had -caused that day, the river was descried from the brow of a sandy knoll, -winding its shining path through the sterile soil. Man and beast rushed -in uncontrollable confusion to the waters, and quenched the fiery -thirst under which both had suffered severely. - -Our baggage did not arrive in camp till about midnight; and so severe -had been the heat, that almost every dog belonging to the officers of -the brigade either dropped dead on the road, or was long in recovering -the effects of the cruel experiment. Many men were much broken down, -and one or two in the hospital doolies died on the road. - -The cavalry-brigade alone having advanced, and intimation having -been received that the Kandahar chiefs, with three or four thousand -cavalry, had left the city to attack us, General Thackwell considered -it probable that they would attempt a surprise that night, as their -spies would probably have time to inform them of our forced march. -Accordingly, pickets, consisting of about one half of our force, were -posted to protect the remainder, and sentries, videttes, and patrols, -with loaded pistols and carbines, spent the evening of that merciless -day in watching for any approaching party. Our vigilance was all in -vain: the Kandahar chiefs did not deserve the compliment we paid them; -and we lay on watch all night, undisturbed by any sound more warlike -than the complaint of a camel, or the bray of a donkey. - -The next day, I was sent with a party of four men to reconnoitre some -hills about three miles distant, on the opposite bank of the river, -and finding many deep ravines in the way, I left my party behind, -and fording the stream, ascended the heights, where the sand was so -deep, that my charger sank up to his knees at every step. I was about -half way up the hill, when an Afghan, armed to the teeth with tolwar, -matchlock, and pistols, started suddenly from a cavern behind a rock, -a few paces above me. I drew a pistol from my holsters, and levelling -it at him, recommended him to surrender. He stood a few seconds, -apparently irresolute; then darted behind the rock, which was close -beside, and out of my sight. I spurred forwards through the sand to -meet my friend on the opposite side; but he had ascended by a narrow -ravine, and in a few seconds I caught sight of him among some crags, -about fifty yards above me, and in full retreat. - -I pursued again, but in vain; for the mountain, which had now become -rocky, presented obstacles every ten yards; and when I reached the -summit, I caught a glimpse of three or four mountaineers a few hundred -yards from me, stealing round the mountain, apparently with the -intention of intercepting my retreat. No signs of a camp or any body -of men were to be seen in the plain, as far as my glass enabled me to -discern; I therefore descended the mountain on the opposite side from -which I had ascended, perceiving that my _longue_ carabine attendants -were prepared for a shot, which I preferred making a difficult one. - -Having reached the foot of the mountain, I stirred my Arab's mettle -across the plain, receiving three or four salutes from my polite -acquaintances above, some of which whistled as if they had been well -directed. - -Having struggled through a quicksand, which lay between me and the -bank, I recrossed the river, and joined my party on the other side. - -I have little doubt that the men I encountered on the hills were -spies from the Kandahar army. The matchlock of the Afghan I came upon -unawares, must have been unloaded, or he would certainly have tried -to prevent my ever reporting our interview. I might easily have sent -a pistol-ball through him, for he was not ten paces from me; but it -looked so much like murder that I could not draw the trigger. - -Marching from hence by the banks of the river, we reached an inhabited -village, in which a little grain was procured for our famished horses. -News arrived in the course of the day that the Kandahar chiefs had -given up all thoughts of opposing us, and retreated towards Herat, -leaving the field open to Shah Soojah. That illustrious monarch -preceded us next day to Kandahar, where, from the confused salute -we heard in the evening of cannon, matchlocks, and various noisy -instruments, we conjectured he had been received with tumultuous joy. -Public exultation is a cheap commodity at all times, but never less -valuable than when inspired by personal fear; and the citizens of -Kandahar were actuated, I think, by interested motives towards their -new monarch. History assigns no cause he had ever given to render -himself popular. - -The defection of Hadji Khan (chief of the Kaukers) was the cause -assigned by the Afghans for the Kandahar chieftains abandoning their -territories without a struggle; but as they could not, at that time, -muster above five or six thousand troops, it is probably as well for -them that they did not make the experiment. - -Some days before we arrived, they advanced a few marches, with -the intention of attempting to surprise us by a night attack; but -afterwards hearing that we were not all in the habit of going to sleep -at night, they retired to Kandahar, to deliberate on the subject, -and thereby saved the army of the Indus from utter and immediate -destruction. - -Hadji Khan, who had been long in correspondence with Burnes, and also -in the confidence of the Kandahar Ameers, was not a bad specimen of -a traitor. His whole life had been devoted to the profession, and he -had risen by it from an obscure station to considerable influence, -changing his politics with the times, and also his friends, when more -influential ones presented themselves. Believed and trusted by all, he -was faithful to none. - -This clever traitor now attached himself to Shah Soojah, being the -first chief of any influence who joined that monarch. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 21: The cause of all this difficulty in procuring carriage -for the Bombay army, was a demand of the Scindian camel-owners for -payment from the time they were originally hired, which responsibility -Sir J. Keane would not undertake, and the camel-owners refused to -advance. The demand was no more than usual; and the results of this -economy were injurious, and might have been fatal.] - -[Footnote 22: It was afterwards known that these tribes had been -instigated by Mehrab Khan of Kheiat to annoy us as much as possible -during our progress.] - -[Footnote 23: The rear columns were attacked here, but by a very small -body of Beloochees, who soon retired.] - -[Footnote 24: The Dhoomba sheep is so named from Dhoom, the tail, which -grows to a great size with this species.] - -[Footnote 25: Surwans are camel-drivers.] - -[Footnote 26: The cold of Afghanistan may be partly owing to the great -quantity of saltpetre diffused over its surface.] - -[Footnote 27: On a more accurate survey of the country, water enough -was found here to have sufficed the whole army.] - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -KANDAHAR--MURDER OF LIEUT. INVERARITY--THE ARMY CONCENTRATED--ADVANCE -BY THE VALLEY OF THE TURNUK UPON GHUZNI. - - -On the morning of the 27th of April we entered the plain in which -Kandahar is situated, and encamped about two miles from the city. -This plain is well irrigated and tilled. Gardens enclosed by high mud -walls, and abounding with a great variety of fruit, are seen on almost -every side on approaching the city; and so level is the plain in its -vicinity, that nothing could be discerned but a long mud wall with -a few domes looking over it. The wall which encloses Kandahar in an -oblong figure, (whose perimeter exceeds three miles,) is flanked by -numerous circular bastions, and defended by an irregular dry ditch. -The curtain is about twenty feet in thickness at the base, and its -relief varies from thirty-five to forty feet, according to the depth -or shallowness of the ditch. In the parapet are numerous embrasures -and loopholes for matchlocks or jingals. I need scarcely annex to this -brief description that it is a place of no strength. - -The bazaar runs from the Shikarpore gate, by which we entered, across -the city, and is intersected at right angles by a similar bazaar from -east to west. At the point of intersection is a large dome, which -affords a respite from the sun, now becoming intolerably hot. The city -was thronged with inhabitants, in every variety of Eastern costume, -busily engaged in their various avocations; and notwithstanding their -material change of administration which took place yesterday, business -seemed to be going on as quietly as if nothing unusual had occurred. -From the estimate formed on that occasion, I should say the natives of -Kandahar were not very violent politicians. - -The women were clad cap-à-pie in a flowing white robe, (not always -particularly clean,) in which a piece of netting was inserted over the -eyes, to give them an opportunity of seeing what was passing; although -it precluded them from what is said, perhaps unjustly, to constitute -a source of satisfaction amongst northerly dames--being seen. A neat -green or scarlet leather slipper gave some relief to the ghostlike -appearance, and generally attracted observation to a pretty foot. - -The palace is situated in the southern quarter, and surrounded by -a high shot-proof wall, which was garnished by several old guns of -curious workmanship: a legend is attached to some of them, which is not -likely to be interesting to the world at large. - -An abundance of supplies were procured for the army in Kandahar, and -the surviving horses of the cavalry brigade (nearly three hundred had -died on the march) once more tasted grain: but the relief came too late -with many, whose hearts had been broken, and the greater portion never -recovered condition. - -About a fortnight after our arrival, the Bombay division joined us, -consisting of a wing of H.M. 4th Light Dragoons, H.M.'s 2nd and 17th -Regiments, two troops of Horse Artillery, 1st Native Cavalry, 19th -Native Infantry, and two companies of Foot Artillery; and now, for -the first time, the "Army of the Indus" were assembled, though many -hundred miles distant from the river in whose name they were baptized. - -The Bombay force had suffered less from famine than ourselves, having -marched a shorter distance, and been better supplied with grain: two -thousand camel loads were dispatched for their use from Shikarpore, to -the grief of the Bengal commissariat. - -In May, the hot winds set in with much virulence, and the heat in our -tents became very oppressive. In spite of every effort on our parts to -reduce the temperature by throwing horse-cloths over the canvas, and -keeping wet grass, day and night, against the doors, the thermometer -stood at 110° during the heat of the day, and did not fall more than -twelve degrees at night. The camp, which was now a long standing one, -became exceedingly offensive, owing to the number of dead cattle in the -vicinity, principally camels; and the swarms of flies that worried us, -enabled one to comprehend what that visitation must have amounted to -when sent to plague the Egyptians. - -The hospital began to fill rapidly. By the middle of May ours held -more than one fourth of the regiment to which I belonged. Jaundice, -dysentery, and fever were the prevalent complaints; the two latter, -far the most fatal. The 13th Light Infantry and Company's European -regiment were very severe sufferers, and were ultimately reduced from -sickness and death to a very weak state, especially the former, who -buried more than an average of a man a day during the two months we -halted at Kandahar. The causes of these complaints, independent of -heat, were the bad water drank on the march, and the dampness of the -soil in the neighbourhood of the city. - -The people of the country being apparently better disposed towards -us now than at first, the officers of the army strayed occasionally -some miles from camp on fishing and shooting excursions, until these -amusements were checked by a tragical event, which occurred on the -evening of the 28th of May. - -Two officers of the 16th Lancers, Lieuts. Wilmer and Inverarity, were -returning towards camp on a sporting excursion rather later in the -evening than usual. On ascending an eminence, about four miles from -camp, (having given their guns to the grooms to carry,) Inverarity -preceded his friend, and rode to the top of a rocky hillock, from -whence the camp fires were visible. When he reached this spot about -twenty Afghan savages rushed upon their unarmed victim, tore him from -his horse (as supposed), and inflicted several mortal wounds with -their cimiters. Wilmer, following, unconscious of what had occurred, -was suddenly attacked by some of the same gang. Providentially he had -a thick walking stick in his hand, which he raised in time to parry -the first blow made at his head, and, escaping from his assailants, -descended the hill, pursued by the assassins. These he soon distanced, -and reaching an outpost of irregular horse about a mile from the place, -returned with some of the party in search of the banditti. The cowardly -villains had absconded, leaving poor Inverarity covered with wounds, -but still alive. He spoke but a few words, faintly describing how he -had met with the disaster, and begged for some water, which, as soon -as it could be procured, he drank, and almost immediately afterwards -expired. - -In the dead of night the party arrived in camp with his corpse, so -gashed and disfigured, that it could scarcely be recognised by his -brother-officers, and the following day his remains were interred with -the usual military honours in front of the standard guard. - -The malice of his murderers rested not even in the grave, for some -months after we heard of a gang (who came from the direction of the -place where he was murdered) attempting to dig up his body. Having -demolished the tomb, they were interrupted in their accursed project by -a party of native infantry quartered in Kandahar, and fled to the hills. - -Inverarity's remains were afterwards removed from the spot, and -interred in the city of Kandahar. - -The barbarians who, it is supposed, committed the deed, were -subsequently secured by the exertions of Major Mac Laren[28] -of the 16th Native Infantry, while storming a small fort near -Khelat-i-Ghilzie. Some articles, supposed to have belonged to -Inverarity, were found in their possession; but the punctilious judge -did not consider them legally identified, and the assassins were -liberated, about in sufficient time, it was conjectured, to fall in -with another officer, who was murdered between Kandahar and Caubul. - -Had the detection and punishment of the murderers been committed to -Shah Soojah (as he requested) there is every reason to suppose they -would not have escaped so easily, and the business would have afforded -his Majesty sincere pleasure. - -Rumours of Dost Mahomed's preparations for an obstinate resistance were -now reaching us daily; but the envoy frequently expressed his firm -conviction that no opposition would be made. Sir John Keane differed -in opinion, and refused to leave the Bombay division behind, according -to Mr. Mac Naghten's suggestion, unless the envoy could guarantee that -Dost Mahomed would surrender. - -This was of course out of the question, and it was at length determined -that the whole force should advance, except a small garrison for -the city. The commissariat exerted themselves to complete their -arrangements for the march, and the approaching departure was joyfully -welcomed by the army. - -A Kafila, with grain from Shikarpore, arrived opportunely in camp -previous to our move, under the escort of two regiments and some local -horse, despatched from Kandahar to protect this caravan, as news had -been received that two chiefs of the powerful Ghilzie tribe were -preparing to pounce on the convoy. - -It was fortunate that this precaution had been taken; for it was -ascertained that a large body of the enemy had made preparations to -surprise these necessary supplies on the road, and the fidelity of the -merchant who brought up the caravan was somewhat doubted, until the -arrival of the reinforcement put treachery out of his power. - -In the beginning of June, the force under Brigadier Sale, which had -been detached soon after our arrival in pursuit of the Kandahar chiefs, -returned. Those princes had fled to Girishk, a fortress about eighty -miles distant from Kandahar, and near the Helmund river, but abandoned -it on the approach of their pursuers, and fled towards Herat. - -Thus ended, in the most undignified manner, the authority of the three -Ameers, for the present. It is singular that in such extremities the -scheme of a reconciliation with their brother, Dost Mahomed, had not -been resorted to, for it would have been unquestionable policy in that -monarch to insure the re-establishment of the Kandahar chiefs to them -in their principality, in case of the united forces succeeding to repel -the British invasion. - -It is evident, however, that no such measures could have been -preconcerted to oppose our advance, from the non-occupation of the -Kojuck and Bolan passes. The Afghans, near Kandahar, informed us that -the chiefs distrusted their subjects, and perhaps with cause. - -Weak both in mind and authority, these chiefs hovered irresolutely -around their capital, but abandoned the power they had usurped when -danger accompanied its retention. - -On the 27th of June, our camp was struck, and the Cavalry division, -with the 1st Brigade of Infantry and head-quarters, preceded. - -Next day, came the second Brigade, Shah Soojah and his motley -procession, which swelled daily in numbers, with hordes of Afghans, who -came to join the Shah and tender their allegiance (as they affirmed), -but in reality, no doubt, to watch the progress of events: to remain -_faithful_ in case of success, or plunder in case of a reverse. - -The Bombay division of Infantry, under Brigadier Willshire, brought up -the rear. One regiment of Bengal Native Infantry and the heavy guns -were left at Kandahar. - -Most of our officers were on the sick list, and on the remainder the -duty was severe, consisting principally of guards to protect the -baggage, and pickets. The outlying cavalry picket was ordered, by the -commander-in-chief, to take post four miles in advance, where, of -course, no baggage was allowed, nor even a groom (strictly speaking) to -hold your charger. This picket was posted at nightfall, with orders to -fall back on the main picket, in case of feeling an enemy. The main -picket was usually posted about a mile from camp, consisting of a -squadron of cavalry, four companies of infantry, and two six-pounders, -from whence a chain of pickets communicated along the front and round -the flanks of the army, whence patrols from the rear-guards completed -the circuit. - -The third day's march brought us to the Turnuk river, which is a clear -and shallow mountain stream, running through a valley sown abundantly -with barley and Indian corn. The water was excellent, and supplies for -our cattle were daily procurable; but numbers continued to die, unable -to overcome the debility ensuing from previous overwork and starvation. - -The natives of the valley were peaceable agriculturists, who came -constantly into our camp, bringing for sale corn, eggs, fowls, and -fruit; but the mountains which flanked our march, at a short distance, -were amply stocked with marauders. The sickness under which the army -had long suffered now began to abate, or at least, to assume a less -virulent character; but the appearance of the sufferers was materially -altered. Those of previously stout and portly figures were seen walking -about in clothes once fitting closely, but now hanging down like empty -pudding-bags; and faces, whose rubicundity once emulated the richest -hues of Chateau Margaux, now wore a puckered-up, gamboge aspect, which -made sympathy no easy matter with those who were prone to laughter. - -Many who had never much flesh to spare, were reduced to varieties -of angular shapes, which might have been useful to a mathematician -when studiously inclined, on the line of march. Such had been the -devastating effects of dysentery and fever on most of the community. - -The zealous and able managers of the intelligence department had -prophesied that we should probably be seriously molested by the tenants -of a strong fort in the Ghilzie country, seven marches from Kandahar, -called Khelat-i-Ghilzie. - -A bribe had been sent to the two principal chiefs of the Ghilzies,[29] -accompanied by a letter from Shah Soojah, desiring their assistance. -The money was retained, and an insulting answer of defiance returned. - -On approaching Khelat-i-Ghilzie, the adjutant-general of cavalry was -sent, with a small escort, to reconnoitre the place. - -The brigadier commanding the advanced guard of two squadrons of -cavalry, two guns, and a small body of infantry, on approaching this -memorable place, espied two or three hundred well-armed Ghilzies on an -eminence not far from the road. - -Having minutely examined their position, the brigadier pronounced it to -be remarkably strong, and prudently resolved to await the arrival of -the main body of the army, previously to dislodging the party. - -Whilst revolving in his mind the most advisable method of attack, -unfortunately, the head of the column hove in sight, and the doubtless -brilliant result that might have ensued was precluded by the Ghilzies -taking to flight. - -It was considered fortunate that the enemy knew not their own strength, -or that a more rash officer had not been in command on the occasion, -who, in attempting to intercept the retreat of the Ghilzies, might have -incurred serious responsibility. - -Sir John Keane, on his arrival at the encamping ground, was so -satisfied with the arrangements, that he is reported even to have -instituted a comparison between the gallant colonel and the Duke of -Wellington, in his usual energetic and classical mode of expression. - -As we had ascended considerably since leaving Kandahar, and were -frequently on high tableland, the heat ceased to annoy us so severely -as during the three preceding months, and we considered we had overcome -by far our most formidable enemy in the relentless sun. - -Various and contradictory rumours continued to pour daily into camp. -At one time, it was said that Dost Mahomed, at the head of an army -of thirty thousand men, with eighty guns, had taken up a strong -position near Caubul; at another, that his chiefs and Kuzzilbaches -(Persian mercenaries) having deserted him, he had despaired of making -any effectual resistance, and fled towards the Hindoo Koosh. Lastly, -we were informed that he had detached two of his sons, with chosen -men from the army, to garrison the fortress of Ghuzni; but the same -evening, perhaps, merchants would travel through our camp, _en route_ -for Kandahar, and declare they had left Ghuzni but a few days, and had -not seen a single soldier in the place! These reports, when compared -with the actual events, are more reconcilable than appears at a first -glance. - -Small parties continued to arrive daily, and tender their allegiance -to Shah Soojah; and we were authentically informed, that the two -before-mentioned Ghilzie chiefs, with about five or six thousand -horse each, were moving daily on both flanks, parallel with our line -of march, and would neglect no opportunity to harass the army. Of the -truth of the latter part of the information, we entertained no doubt, -_provided_ they could do it with impunity. - -About seventy miles from Ghuzni, we quitted the rich valley of the -Turnuk river, and crossed an extensive, well-cultivated plain, thickly -studded with small mud forts. The inhabitants of this part of the -country dare not dwell in open towns or villages, owing to the numerous -bands of marauders infesting the neighbouring mountains, who have no -mercy on the defenceless villages. - -Small, but luxuriant groves of fruit-trees, bending beneath their loads -of rosy-cheeked apples, speckled the plain, and formed a pleasing -resting-place for the eye, fatigued with the ceaseless range of barren -mountains skirting the valley. - -On the 20th of July, we reached a small place called Nance, about -twelve miles from Ghuzni; and as yet no authentic intelligence had been -received of Dost Mahomed's intentions or movements, nor of any steps -having been taken to interrupt our progress. - -Sir John Keane, however, received news at this place which induced him -to order the rear column to close up to us in the evening. The fort -was said to be garrisoned by a body of Dost Mahomed's troops; and Ufzul -Khan, his second son, was supposed to be near us with four thousand -cavalry. As it was probable that Ufzul Khan would effect a junction -with the Ghilzie chiefs, and attempt to surprise our camp during the -night, the whole army were drawn up in line on their standard guards -soon after sunset, and lay under arms during the night. - -Nevertheless, nothing certain was known regarding these reports. Major -Garden, the quartermaster-general, had ridden to reconnoitre Ghuzni in -the evening, and perceived no signs of its being garrisoned. - -At daybreak, on the morning of the 21st, our line broke into three -columns, the cavalry on the right, the artillery in the centre, and the -infantry on the left, and in this order advanced over the plain, at the -extremity of which the fortress of Ghuzni is situated. - -As we approached, a nephew of Dost Mahomed came to tender his -submission to the Shah, and gave information of the fort being occupied -by Hyder Khan, a son of Dost Mahomed, with a garrison of three thousand -infantry and a few cavalry; but he expressed a suspicion that they -would evacuate the place. This individual complained of having been -ill-treated by his uncle; but there appeared little doubt that the -gentleman came into camp merely as a spy. - -Reports from the advanced parties continued to state that no garrison -was to be seen on the ramparts: however, we continued to advance in the -same order. - -When within about a mile of the walls, a smart fire of matchlocks -was suddenly opened on the advanced guard of infantry on our left, -from a small village, and from behind some garden walls. The column -immediately halted; the 16th Native Infantry were detached to clear the -village, in rear of which was a small redoubt, protected by the fire of -a bastion of the fort, on which the Afghans fell back. - -Two officers,[30] and several men of the 16th Native Infantry, were -wounded by the Afghans in the skirmish. - -The artillery now swept past us, and took up their position on an -elevated post in a village about four hundred yards distant from the -nearest bastion of the fort. At the same time the 4th Dragoons were -ordered to the rear to protect the baggage, which, it was supposed, was -likely to be attacked by a body of the enemy's cavalry, which had been -descried on the right, moving in that direction. - -The remainder of the cavalry-division were drawn up in close column of -squadrons, about three quarters of a mile from Ghuzni, and supplied -escorts to the reconnoitring parties. - -The garrison now opened their fire upon us, which was answered by our -artillery from the village, but the guns, which were only six-pounders, -were found to have little or no effect on the walls, in consequence of -which they were soon withdrawn, having lost two or three horses from -the enemy's fire. Sir John Keane, in his despatch, assigns as a reason -for this eccentric cannonade, a desire to unmask the enemy's batteries. - -About the same time the infantry were also withdrawn, and bivouacked in -rear of some gardens, enclosed by mud walls, and about a mile from the -fort. - -The cavalry entirely escaped his excellency's notice. Early in the -day, several troops had been detached with the different reconnoitring -officers; but now being of no further use for the present, we were left -standing to our horses' heads, and meditating on what kind of service -we could be employed while the rest of the army were bivouacked. - -At length, the garrison, being unemployed for the present, pitied -our forlorn condition, and prepared to provide for our amusement. A -monstrous gun from the citadel, carrying a sixty-eight pound shot, -was seen to be trained with much assiduity, in our direction, and we -awaited in agreeable suspense the result of the process. - -Two little tents had been procured by some of the officers, and pitched -on the spot where we had dismounted. Some luxurious fellows had been -out on a foraging excursion amongst the baggage, and returned laden -with a supply of bread, fowl, cold meat, and milk. This collation was -being discussed, and a vote of thanks to the industrious foraging -party was in the act of passing, when a loud report from the citadel -interrupted them, followed by a load of iron hurtling over our heads, -and plunging amongst the mass of baggage and camp followers in rear. -This was immediately succeeded by another, better directed, which cut -the ropes of our neighbours' tent, wounded one of their servants, and -killed a trooper of Native Cavalry. - -I never saw two tents struck with such admirable alacrity as on this -occasion. I am sure I do not exaggerate when I say that in less than -two minutes the tents had disappeared, and the spy-glasses of the -inmates were directed at the walls to ascertain the cause of this -uncourteous interruption. - -The senior officer present now ordered the cavalry to mount, and we -retreated half a mile to the rear, through the midst of a mass of -baggage which our camp followers were hurrying off with incredible -despatch, perceiving the probability of their becoming a target for the -merciless Golundauze in the fort. - -Scarcely had we picketed our horses, when the trumpet called us again -to the saddle, and we changed position to the northern front of Ghuzni, -on the Caubul road, and about a mile from the nearest bastion. We -reached this ground about sunset; but the infantry, who passed by a -more circuitous route, round the other side of the fortress, did not -arrive in camp many of them till near midnight. - -An incessant fire of cannon, matchlocks, and jingals, was kept up -during the night on the troops whilst marching, and after their arrival -in camp; but the enemy lost a night's rest, and wasted their ammunition -to very small purpose. As they had done us very little injury in the -daytime, the night fire was not a subject of much apprehension; but -all Asiatics have much confidence in great noise and constant firing, -without taking pains about its direction and effect; it keeps up their -courage by diverting their thoughts. - -At daylight the following morning, from the intelligence received, and -the observations of reconnoitring parties, we were better enabled to -judge of the difficulties opposed. - -Ghuzni is situated in a plain, which it commands easily on every side -but the north, where a small range of hills run down to within one -hundred and fifty yards of the walls. It is built on a low extensive -mound, the foot of which is surrounded by a mud rampart, flanked by -numerous circular bastions. The curtain of this enceinte varied from -thirty-five to forty-five feet in height, and averaged perhaps twenty -in thickness, which rendered it shot-proof to our artillery, as our -heaviest guns had been left at Candahar to be sent as a present to -Prince Kamran of Herat! - -The rampart was defended by a deep wet ditch, over which permanent -bridges were built at the gates. - -The citadel stands on a rock on the central and most elevated part of -the mound, commanding the whole of the town, and about two hundred and -fifty yards of the hills on the north, and is surrounded by a thick mud -rampart, defended by a fausse-braye. The soles of the embrasures and -loopholes in the parapet of the latter were not sufficiently depressed -to enfilade the approaches to the citadel. - -The gates were all blocked with masonry excepting that which leads to -Caubul, and this was built of massive wood, strengthened by iron clamps -and bars, and defended by the cross fire of two adjacent bastions. - -Hyder Khan, a son of Dost Mahomed, commanded the garrison, which -consisted of three thousand infantry and one thousand four hundred -cavalry: amongst the former were about one hundred artillerymen, who -had deserted or been reduced in the East India Company's artillery. - -The heights on one side of the plain were occupied by a body of about -three thousand cavalry, commanded by Ufzul Khan; and on the other, a -body of infidels, of similar strength, but infantry, were posted to -harass our left. - -It was also conjectured that the two Ghilzie chiefs who had been -hovering on our flanks on the line of march, had joined their forces -with those of Ufzul Khan; and these chiefs were reported to be in -command of eight or ten thousand horsemen. - -The news of Runjeet Singh's death (which occurred on the 27th of June, -1839) having set Dost Mahomed's mind at rest, regarding any serious -co-operation on the part of the Sikhs against him, he was now preparing -to move down with all the forces he could assemble, and attack us -whilst engaged with the siege of Ghuzni. - -His eldest son, Mahomed Akbar Khan, had been detached with about five -thousand men to the entrance of the Khyber pass, which Colonel Wade was -preparing to enter, in company with the Shah Zada Timoor, Shah Soojah's -son. - -Colonel Wade commanded a few companies of native infantry and some raw -levies, and was supported by a Sikh auxiliary brigade. - -Before Colonel Wade entered the Khyber Pass, the Afghan force under -Mahomed Akbar had been recalled by Dost Mahomed, under the urgent -circumstances then pressing upon him; and the Khyber was entrusted -to the defence of the wandering tribes of Khyberees who infest those -extensive ranges of mountains. - -Our own _effective_ force now scarcely amounted to two thousand -eight hundred European cavalry, infantry, and artillery, and about -four thousand sepoys: so much had the army been reduced by sickness, -death, and the detachments left to garrison the places we had passed -through--viz., Bukkur, Shikarpore, Quetta, and Candahar. - -Exclusive of these, of course, were the Shah's troops, whose -contingent, in case of an action, would, it was conjectured, be fully -employed in watching the numerous Afghan rabble which flocked around -Shah Soojah. These had now swelled to a large amount by the daily -influx of armed horsemen, who were as likely to be spies and adherents -of Dost Mahomed, as friends of Shah Soojah. - -At the best, the bare suspicion of treachery from this armed host -rendered it necessary to keep a force on the watch, and the contingent -must have been used for that purpose in case of a general engagement. - -On the morning of the 22nd of July, Sir John Keane and the engineers -were actively employed in reconnoitring the fortress. - -Captain Thompson, the chief engineer, having completed his -observations, and remarked that a communication was kept up by the -garrison with the exterior, through the Caubul gateway, gave it as -his opinion that apparently the most practicable means of assault -were presented by a coup-de-main, in lieu of a regular assault, (for -which we were not provided,) and suggested as a method to attain this -purpose, that the Caubul gate should be destroyed by bags of powder. - -Some officers were in favour of an immediate escalade, but as that -method would necessarily involve a greater loss, and might still remain -in reserve, in case of the failure of the former and more expeditious -method, Sir John Keane resolved on adopting Captain Thompson's -suggestion. - -During the morning of the 22nd, we were most of us endeavouring to make -amends for the two days and nights of almost unremitting vigilance -that had been exercised, when the shrill tones of the alarm trumpet -rang confusedly from many quarters of the camp, and caused us all to -start up and prepare for the saddle. A smart rattling fire of musketry, -interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, was heard, apparently -near the foot of the hills, on our left flank, and a hurried report -ran along the lines, that Dost Mahomed, with his whole army, had come -suddenly upon us. - -We were now become too well used to our harness to take long in -preparing, and a very few minutes served to show us formed, on our -alarm posts. - -The Bengal cavalry brigade were immediately dispatched at a round pace -towards the scene of action. The ground we passed over was rough and -undulating, and in many places covered with crops of high standing -corn, which completely intercepted our view; but the nearer rattle of -musketry indicated we were not far from the field of strife. - -Having ridden over about two miles of country, of the above -description, we came upon an open and barren plain, which extended -to the foot of the hills, where we descried some of Shah Soojah's -contingent, accompanied by two or three guns, closely engaged with a -body of two or three thousand Afghans. - -On our approach, the Afghans commenced a retreat upon the hills, -pressed hard by the Shah's troops, who were unable, however, to bring -their guns far up the hill-side. - -The cavalry brigade were detached by wings of regiments to the flanks -and rear of the heights, in order to intercept the enemy, should the -infantry succeed in dislodging them. - -The Afghans having ascended to the summit of the hill, took up a hasty -order for battle, and awaited their enemies. A deep ravine skirted -the base of their position, and its crest was occupied by a party of -matchlock-men, thus enfilading the approach by the only practicable -ascent. The Shah's troops were not inclined to storm this strong -defensible position, but halted behind the ravine, and under cover of -rocks and broken ground endeavoured to drive the enemy from the heights -by musketry; but the distance between the skirmishing parties, to admit -of either fire being very galling, was much too considerable. - -We remained watching the skirmish taking place on the heights, in -expectation of seeing a reinforcement arrive from camp, which would -enable the infantry to dislodge their enemies, and force them into -collision with us; but the commander-in-chief refused the application -for reinforcements, being resolved to keep the infantry fresh for the -work which awaited them on the morrow, and Shah Soojah would not part -with any more of his guards. A body of cavalry, as a last resource, -endeavoured to mount the hill side, and take the Afghans in reverse, -but after ascending a few hundred yards, the rocks and ravines became -so numerous that the ascent was quite impracticable, and they -reluctantly descended under a harmless salute from the enemy on the -summit. - -At sunset, the forces were withdrawn to camp, having killed about sixty -Afghans, and taken fifty prisoners, with a loss of only a few wounded -on the side of the British. - -The prisoners being brought into the presence of Shah Soojah, declared -they were Ghazees, or Crusaders, bound by a religious vow to take -his head, and that the oath of the party would sooner or later be -accomplished, although they had not been successful in the present -attempt. - -"I will, at all events, secure your head now," replied the indignant -monarch; and beckoning to his executioner, (who was never far from his -master's side, knowing the Shah's predilection for the office,) the -speaker's head rapidly disappeared. - -The comrades of the decapitated being loth to part with this useful -article, showed signs of resistance, when the brave and zealous -attendants of his majesty rushed upon the unarmed prisoners, -unrestrained by word or gesture of their king, and massacred their -victims. - -One old man, it is said, escaped to tell his comrades in the mountains -the fate of the captives. And this act was perpetrated in the midst of -the first Christian army which had set foot in Afghanistan since the -creation of the world. - -Let it not be supposed that the suppression of the murder lay in the -power of the British authorities; there was not, I believe, one British -officer present, and the whole merit rests with Shah Soojah; but he was -viewed as a mere puppet in our hands, and on us, throughout Asia, will -rest the obloquy of this savage massacre. No doubt the Afghans have -done as bloody deeds, but it became, therefore, more incumbent to show -a better example. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 28: This gallant soldier fell at the battle of Sobraon.] - -[Footnote 29: In the subjugation of this country in 1840, this tribe of -Ghilzies were found the most obstinate and inveterate foes to British -influence. Khelat-i-Ghilzie was gallantly held by a native infantry -regiment (which now bears the name) against frequent attacks of the -Ghilzies during the insurrection.] - -[Footnote 30: Captain Graves and Lieutenant M'Mullen, 16th Native -Infantry.] - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -STORM AND CAPTURE OF GHUZNI--ADVANCE TO MEET DOST MAHOMED--HIS ARMY -DESERT HIM, AND HE FLIES TOWARDS THE HINDOO KOOSH. - - -The plan of operations against Ghuzni having now been arranged, general -orders directed the troops to move as quietly as possible from their -quarters to the allotted positions. About three in the morning the -artillery had occupied the heights near the Caubul gate of the fort, -and about three hundred yards from the ramparts. The infantry were -drawn up in columns of companies on the road beneath the hills, and to -the left rear of the artillery. The cavalry were posted round the fort -to intercept the retreat of the garrison and the advance of relief. - -The 16th Lancers were on the Caubul road, in the rear of the infantry, -as a diversion was expected from the enemy's cavalry in the mountains, -in favour of the besieged. - -The morning was exceedingly dark, and all around quiet as death; for -the garrison, who had hitherto kept up an almost incessant cannonade, -seemed to think they had done enough, and were enjoying repose. We -began to imagine that they had used up their ammunition in the past -vigorous efforts to alarm us, and that the fort had been evacuated. - -This oppressive silence was interrupted by the word of command passing -down the ranks in a whisper; and the forlorn hope moved to their post -near the Caubul gate, to await the result of the engineers' experiment. -The bags of powder, amounting to three hundred pounds in weight, were -carried by the sappers, supported by a party of European volunteers; -and the engineer officers, who placed the powder at the gate, -distinctly heard the voices of the Afghan-guard conversing near the -gateway. The saucisson was laid, and fired by an officer of the Bengal -Engineers. - -Suddenly, a broad glare lit up the ramparts, and with a smothered, -crushing report, the Caubul gate was shattered into innumerable -fragments. In one moment, the face of nature seemed to have awoke in -uproar. The rushing and confusion in the city, and on the ramparts, -was accompanied by a hasty and random fire from any gun which could -be manned, no matter where it was pointed. The whole city, aroused -instantaneously from repose, and yet too late, hurried in confused -masses to man the walls, ignorant of the disaster which had befallen -the gateway. Then burst from the hills the solemn, majestic roar of our -artillery; light flashed upon light in uninterrupted succession, and -the shell, sped on its mission of death, curved steadily through the -lurid atmosphere. - -The fort continued a random answer from its guns, and hung out lights -from the walls, to discover the locality of their assailants; but this -served to direct the fire of our artillery, and the walls were soon -cleared of their occupants. The wing of a Native Infantry regiment, -posted on the south-eastern front, drew a part of the besieged in that -direction, to repel this false attack. - -Under cover of the artillery fire, sweeping the parapets, Colonel -Dennie, leading four light companies from the 2nd, 13th, 17th, and -Company's European Regiment, advanced to storm the Caubul gate, closely -followed by Brigadier Sale, in command of the main body of the storming -party, consisting of the remainder of those four British regiments. - -The enemy opened a smart fire of matchlocks upon the advance, and the -gateway was found much obstructed with rubbish and splintered beams -from the demolished framework. The postern, turning sharply to the -right, and leading to the interior of the place, induced an officer in -the passage to suppose it blocked up, in consequence of which, he took -upon himself to order a bugler to sound the retreat; but the advanced -party having penetrated to the interior, heard, or heeded not, the -recal. - -Overcoming every obstacle, the gallant Britons rushed, with a loud -cheer, through the postern, at whose entrance they were met by a body -of Afghan desperadoes, who had thrown themselves devotedly into this -passage, resolved to defend it with their lives. Here, the struggle was -short, but deadly. Armed with sword and daggers, each Afghan fought and -fell, with his face to the enemy; and if a spark of life remained after -he had been hurled to the earth, his last act was to direct a sword or -pistol against the breast of his hated foe as our men trampled over him -in their ownward career. So confined had been the area for combat, that -many of the soldiers, being unable to use their weapons at full length -in the mêlée, unfixed their bayonets, and used them as daggers; and -the broken and blood-stained weapons told with what effect they had -been wielded. - -The resistance at the entrance having been overcome by the destruction -of this desperate band, the cry was, "On--on! to the citadel!" - -A panic had now seized and paralysed many of the garrison, for they -huddled together in confined spaces, and stood to be slaughtered like -sheep, or rushed in frenzy to the walls, and cast themselves from the -parapets. - -No thought of refuge and opposition in the citadel seemed to have -occurred to any, nor had it been sufficiently equipped for defence. - -The efforts of the most rational were directed towards an escape -outside the walls, by secret outlets; but there, the clear light of -morning, and the sabres of the cavalry, left slender hopes of escape. - -As daylight brought each minute tracing of the works into view, the -gallant British regiment were seen winding up the steep, rocky ascent -which led to the citadel, where, with a wild "hurrah!" they burst the -gate, mounted the ramparts, and cast loose the gay blazonry of their -banners to the wind as it moaned along the shattered battlements of -captured Ghuzni. - -Scattered parties of the besieged now fled to the tops of the houses, -whence, after they had recovered a little from the prevalent panic, a -desultory fire was maintained on our soldiery. This useless resistance -nullified all attempts to restrain the carnage which ensued, and which -the garrison, by not surrendering at once, brought upon themselves. -So determined were many to carry war "to the knife," that they would -discharge their last pistol at the party advancing to capture them, and -then resign themselves, sullenly, to the fate which followed this last -act of outrage in the shape of a bullet or a bayonet. Probably, they -imagined that no quarter would be granted them; "the quality of mercy" -being rarely found "dropping like the gentle dew from heaven" on the -rugged surface of Afghanistan. - -Possibly, the intelligence of yesterday's massacre of the prisoners -by Shah Soojah might have induced them to expect a similar fate in -captivity. - -A brigade of sepoys which had entered the town and spread on the -ramparts, having scoured the buildings, soon cleared them of their -defenders, and put an end to all resistance in a few hours, the British -regiments being withdrawn to their lines. - -Confusion, however, continued to prevail throughout the day, for a -herd of about one thousand two hundred horses belonging to the garrison -were dashing wildly through the town, driven frantic by wounds or -alarm. An officer, with a party of dragoons, was sent into the fort -to secure these horses, which now resembled wild beasts more than -domestic animals; and it was with much difficulty this roving band -were at length secured and led off. Very few horses of much value or -of sufficient size and strength for a cavalry remount were selected -from these captives. Those, however, which were used for that purpose -have mostly proved active and hardy animals, and are considered by many -superior to the general run of stud-bred horses in Bengal. - -In the course of the day, Hyder Khan, the governor of Ghuzni, was -captured, and brought into camp, where Shah Soojah, at the instigation -of the commander-in-chief, reluctantly granted him his life, which the -Shah no doubt considered forfeited, for bearing arms against a king who -had been deposed before, or very shortly after, the delinquent's birth. - -Not so fared Woolee Mahomed, (a relative of Dost Mahomed, and -standard-bearer of the army,) who defended himself to the last -extremity in the cellar, where he had taken refuge, close to his -Zenana,[31] which he protested should be entered by none, save over his -dead body. He surrendered, ultimately, to two officers on political -employ, who ventured to promise that his life should be spared, and was -brought before the tyrant Soojah, who immediately ordered him to be -executed. - -It has been alleged that Woolee Mahomed had proved treacherous to the -Shah in some previous intercourse; but no sophistry can prove that Shah -Soojah was then a king, when Dost Mahomed sat on the throne, and, with -the approbation of his subjects, exercised supreme authority. - -Many causes, too numerous to dwell upon, have been assigned for this -act of severity, by those desirous to defend Shah Soojah, but none -apparently can justify so cold-blooded a murder, when the words of two -British officers had been pledged for the safety of the unhappy victim. -Surely, blood enough had been shed that day to appease the royal -resentment, had it been confined to anything resembling moderate limits. - -Amongst the besieged the carnage was found to be considerable. Upwards -of seven hundred bodies were interred in the fort, and about two -thousand were taken prisoners. It was impossible to ascertain the -number of wounded, for many crawled out of their hiding-places, in the -city, several days afterwards, and were taken charge of by such of the -citizens as had resumed their usual avocations; and in the villages, -some distance from Ghuzni, a few days afterwards, I found several, -dreadfully scorched and wounded, who admitted they had escaped over the -walls, on the morning of the storm, shortly before daylight. - -Nearly all the prisoners were liberated, by direction of the -commander-in-chief, in the course of the day; for this, there was no -alternative, as we had not the means of taking charge of and supporting -such a large body of men, in the present state of affairs, and this act -of clemency, it was supposed, would produce a beneficial effect in the -beginning of the campaign. - -Amongst our own troops, the list of killed and wounded amounted to -two hundred, but of this number not more than thirty were killed, or -died of their wounds. In the list of wounded were nineteen officers, -but none of their injuries proved fatal. Some had been wounded by a -short barbed arrow or bolt, shot from a cross-bow, which implement the -Afghans are tolerably expert in using; but these weapons had been in -the hands of the townspeople during the defence. The garrison had been -selected from the best of Dost Mahomed's troops, and were about three -thousand in number, and universally well equipped and armed. - -Among the prisoners were found several Golundauze or Foot Artillery, -from Hindustan. One of these declared that, the day preceding the -storm, he had suggested to the governor the probability of our -attempting to blow in the gate of the fortress, and recommended that -a palisade should be thrown across the entrance; but his advice had -been disregarded, the gate being considered strong enough to resist any -attack. - -The place being now in our hands, guards were posted at the gate, and -parties patrolled the town to prevent any more plundering, and to -collect the prize property. - -Eight pieces of cannon, of various calibres, and twenty two jingals, or -wall pieces, were taken. Among the ordnance, was our old antagonist of -the 21st instant, which was found to carry a sixty-eight pound shot, -though assuredly at greater risk to the artillerymen who were rash -enough to fire it than to the enemy, for the interior was curiously -honeycombed. - -Few things of much value were taken except horses, of which about one -thousand were picketed in front of the 1st Cavalry Brigade, but owing -to the insufficiency of ropes and picketing pegs, the greater part of -the horses broke loose during the night, and more than half escaped or -were stolen! - -The whole of the prize property taken at Ghuzni, when sold, it is said, -fetched less than three lakhs of rupees, although the horses, arms, -and other articles, when put up for auction, sold for most exorbitant -prices, and the amount was realized in a few weeks. Yet an impenetrable -veil of mystery encompasses the subject. No officers to the present -date have received any part of the treasure; and information, though -frequently and publicly solicited, has been equally scarce. - -After the capture of the fort, the enemy, who had occupied the adjacent -heights, retired, and left us for awhile at rest. Parties of Afghan -horsemen arrived daily in camp, from Caubul and its vicinity, to tender -their allegiance to Shah Soojah. These people concurred in asserting -that Dost Mahomed was still at Caubul, collecting his forces to give us -battle, and that his present army amounted to fifteen thousand men and -forty guns. - -On July 27th, a deputation under Jubbar Khan (brother of Dost Mahomed) -arrived at our outposts, and were conducted to head-quarters. They came -to inquire what terms would be granted to Dost Mahomed by the British -government. - -They were answered that Dost Mahomed must surrender himself into our -hands, and return with a portion of the army to Hindostan, where -a jageer would be allotted him, and a pension of a lakh of rupees -annually. - -Indignant at the severity of the terms, the Afghan ambassador replied -nearly as follows:-- - -"These proposals are so insulting that I will not even mention them -to my brother; for what less could have been offered had you already -vanquished him in the field? We have hitherto heard that the English -were a just and equitable nation; but on what plea can you found the -right of dethroning a monarch, the choice of his country, and placing -on the throne yonder deposed puppet whom I spit at?[32] You have taken -our stronghold of Ghuzni; you may also, perhaps, overcome the army -which my brother has raised to defend himself; but the eyes of all Asia -are upon you. Asiatics will judge and appreciate your conduct; and the -blood of those innocent men who fall in the contest rests on your own -heads. May Allah defend the right!" - -I have rarely heard a speech more to the purpose, and never one more -difficult to answer. - -Jubbar Khan, having made more than half his auditors look -uncomfortable, returned to Caubul, after resting a short time at -the quarters of his friend, Sir Alexander Burnes, who spoke of him -in the highest terms. Jubbar Khan had formerly been ill treated by -Dost Mahomed, and been estranged thereby from his brother; but now -that adversity loured, forgetting all former differences, he came to -tender what service lay in his power, and remained faithful to the -last, although through his friend Sir Alexander Burnes, he might, -doubtless, have provided well for his own interests. A rare example -of disinterestedness, and almost a solitary case, according to all -accounts of Afghan character. - -Jubbar Khan's escort consisted of about one hundred cavalry, who were -nearly all uncommonly fine and powerful-looking fellows, mostly clad -in chain armour, and armed with lances and matchlocks, but mounted -on horses apparently not up to their weight: these animals, however, -are more active and hardy than would be supposed, and are trained to -perform long journeys at a shuffling pace of about five miles an hour, -and frequently on very short allowances of fodder. - -On the morning of the capture of Ghuzni, the Cavalry Brigade turned out -about eleven o'clock, in consequence of the approach of a large body of -horsemen, which proved to be Hadji Khan, Kauker, with his followers. -He had kept some distance in our rear since quitting Kandahar, and now -pushed forward to join us, seeing our affairs wore a more favourable -aspect. This chief had maintained a correspondence with the political -agent since the army had entered Afghanistan, offering to remain with -the Kandahar chiefs, and do them all the injury in his power until -our arrival! Yet Hadji Khan never actively assisted the army, nor -did he restrain his people from committing depredations whilst we -were passing through his own hills. He now came forward with a camel -load of letters, (an excellent pretext,) asserting that he had been -earnestly engaged in collecting and forwarding our communication. His -influence might possibly have effected that object, without remaining -two or three marches in rear with his whole force. This new addition -augmented the Shah's force to so large a body of Afghans, that they -were prudently kept at arm's length; for treachery from that camp was -now quite as formidable as resistance from the enemy in our front. - -On the 30th of July, we advanced from Ghuzni towards the capital, the -cavalry brigade preceding as before, accompanied by the first brigade -of infantry. Colonel Roberts's brigade followed, next day, with the -Shah; and General Willshire's division formed the rear-guard of the -army. - -At the commencement of the march, we passed through a narrow defile, -which would have been an admirable position for Dost Mahomed to hold -during the siege of Ghuzni, or to select afterwards to oppose our -progress. The summit of this defile was found to be the highest ground -we had crossed, being fully 1000 feet above the site of Ghuzni, and -that fortress was computed at nearly 8000 feet above the level of the -sea. - -Having traversed a considerable tract of rocky undulating ground, we -entered, on the third day's march, a small but well irrigated valley, -where the turf and bright corn fields beneath us, partially shaded -by avenues of fruit trees, nourished by the friendly assistance of a -mountain stream, whose course they closely and eagerly pursued to the -end of the valley, presented a prospect which would anywhere have been -admired, but, in these barren regions, it looked like - - "That vale enchanting - Where all looks flowery, wild and sweet, - And nought but love is wanting." - -Possibly, on reflection, we might have found other wants; but at -present it was necessary to dispense with wishes and encounter stern -reality. - -Several deserters of Dost Mahomed's army joined us here, with -intelligence of his being in position about thirty miles from us, at -a place called Urghundee, with a force of fifteen thousand men and -thirty pieces of cannon; but the deserters suggested that he would -probably advance to meet us at Maidan, an open ground, which sloped -gradually towards a rivulet lying in our route. On receipt of this -news, orders were issued to the rear columns to close immediately to -the front, and we marched next morning about ten miles in momentary -expectation of encountering some of the enemies' advanced posts. Our -pickets were strengthened and carefully disposed along the front; and -our men, elated at the prospect of the approaching struggle, burnished -their arms and looked keenly to the condition of their chargers and -accoutrements. Every heart beat high in the confident anticipation of -shortly essaying what might be effected by a small band of resolute -and disciplined soldiers against this overwhelming mass of vaunting -Afghans, who amounted to more than double our numbers. - -Such were the hopes entertained by our army; but, ere mid-day, these -brilliant anticipations were given to the winds; for a large body of -Afghans arrived at our pickets, bringing accounts that Dost Mahomed's -army was breaking up and deserting; and that, in despair, he had -abandoned them and his guns at Urghundee, and fled towards Bameean. -This news was soon after confirmed by numerous bodies of the ex-king's -cavalry arriving in camp to tender their useful submission and services -to Shah Soojah, until in the hour of need they might find it more -profitable and less dangerous to choose another master. - -Major Cureton, with a squadron of the 16th Lancers, one of Native -Cavalry, and a few artillerymen, was immediately despatched to take -possession of the cannon. Twenty-five pieces were found in position -under the brow of a hill, near Urghundee, about twenty-two miles -distant from our present encampment. - -At the same time, Captain Outram, A.D.C.[33] to the commander-in-chief, -with twelve other officers, and about two hundred and fifty Native -Cavalry, undertook the pursuit of Dost Mahomed towards the Hindoo -Koosh. Hadji Khan, Kaukur, volunteered to act as their guide, and to -assist in capturing the late monarch with several hundred of his Afghan -retinue; but these rapidly decreased in numbers as they approached -Bameean. - -The gallant Outram, whose whole life has been a scene of daring -exploits, which obtained for him the appropriate designation of Bayard, -"Le chevalier sans peur et sans reproche," has sketched, in his "Rough -Notes," the details of this expedition, and I shall therefore not -presume to trace that ground. - -Thus was the object of this singular campaign accomplished, and -Shah Soojah, after an exile of thirty years, re-established in his -dominions. The feeble resistance offered by Dost Mahomed was a matter -of surprise to all the army, considering the character for enterprise, -courage, and ability universally assigned him, and which the earlier -period of his career fully testified; but he had been many years a -king, which may perhaps account for the difficulty. Possessing such -strong natural obstacles to the advance as well as maintenance of -an invading army, as Afghanistan unquestionably does, he profited -by none of them. In the most rugged and formidable defiles, a few -marauders only were posted to assail our rear guards and baggage; and -even these not always at the suggestion of their prince, but to glut -their own appetites for blood and plunder. As we advanced through the -inhospitable regions of Lower Afghanistan, the inhabitants generally -fled from before us, but often left their standing crops for the -maintenance of our cattle. Had these been cut down and carried away to -the mountains by the villagers, our horses must all have died, for they -endured, even as it happened, starvation enough to destroy half and -enfeeble the remainder. - -Though many opportunities presented themselves for cutting off our -supplies of water, this expedient was only once or twice attempted, and -that in so slovenly a manner that a party of twenty or thirty troopers -sufficed to restore the water to its channel, unopposed by the enemy. -These circumstances amply prove, without entering further into details, -that Dost Mahomed had neglected the important opportunities which lay -in his grasp, of multiplying our difficulties at the outset. He might -assuredly have induced the chiefs of Kandahar (his own brothers) to -make common cause against their common invaders, and, in conjunction -with the Ghilzie chiefs and Mehrab Khan of Khelat (both of whom, as -well as their adherents, showed abundant proofs of their readiness to -bear arms against us) dispute the passage of the numerous and difficult -passes we were compelled to traverse. This supposition may be fully -warranted by the reply which Burnes describes Dost Mahomed to have -given on a former occasion to the Kandahar chiefs, when threatened by -the Persians. "When the Persians approach, let me know; and as I am -_now_ your enemy will I then be your friend."[34] - -Such would have appeared the most rational course to pursue; and had -he taken these measures and executed them with vigour, there is little -doubt that his own army would have remained faithful to him when the -prospect appeared favourable, and when an example should be set by -other tribes. It is no matter of surprise that an army of lawless -tribes should desert a chief whom they deem unable or unwilling to -direct their efforts to the best advantage. - -The chieftains, whose aggregate force would have been considerable, -were allowed to be beaten in detail, or to abandon their position as -we advanced. Mehrab Khan, with two thousand brave followers, fell -in the defence of his fortress, even after the dethronement of his -sovereign. The Kandahar chiefs, with what remained of their army, -having lingered to the last moment, were compelled to abandon their -city without a struggle. The Ghilzie chiefs were willing enough,[35] as -they afterwards proved, to meet their invaders in the field, and their -numbers must have been considerable, as more than six thousand were -known to be moving on our flanks on the advance to Ghuzni. - -Lastly, a garrison of less than three thousand men in a fortress, -which, by the modern rules of the art of war, must inevitably fall in -a few days, (considering the Gothic tracing of its defences,) was the -forlorn bulwark opposed by the monarch himself to the approaches of his -capital. - -However, this dernier resort, even, was made the least of by his -majesty's unaccountable desire to linger near the capital. Had the -defile, five miles on the Caubul side of Ghuzni, been selected as a -position for his army, they would have been advantageously placed to -intercept our advance upon Caubul, and from thence dispositions might -have been made for the relief of Ghuzni, or to surprise us by a chupao, -or night attack, which mode of warfare has often been successfully -practised among the Afghans. What might have been the result of such a -manoeuvre it is difficult even to conjecture;[36] for in the darkness -of night many advantages of discipline are lost, where the enemy is -felt before he is seen, and fire is almost as likely to tell upon -friend as foe; their habit, it is said, is to attack the rear of camp, -where the confused mass of cattle driven from the bazaar into the lines -must create no trifling confusion amongst the troops turning out to -form on their alarm posts. - -The fall of Ghuzni greatly dispirited Dost Mahomed's army;[37] they -became distrustful of him, and he of them, and the result was a mutual -separation. - -Many of his soldiers concurred in stating, that they had assured -Dost Mahomed of their faith, and would have abided by him; but when -it became known that Jubbar Khan had proceeded to Ghuzni to open a -negotiation, they doubted him, and concluded he was about to provide -for himself at their expense. - -Taking all these circumstances into consideration, this campaign, -in an abstract military point of view, has thus far turned out more -fortunately, and with less and feebler opposition from the enemy, than -the most sanguine of its instigators or conductors could reasonably -have anticipated. - -Politically, I shall not discuss the subject, because I could never -perceive one sound reason for taking the haphazard and unprofitable -tour. - -On advancing towards the position lately occupied by Dost Mahomed, -nearly the whole line of march was flanked by troops of the deposed -monarch. Many of them were well mounted, and all well armed, although -little uniformity was maintained in dress or weapons. - -Some wore steel caps and gauntlets, chain-armour variously wrought, and -light, neatly-finished cimeters, which bore a remarkably keen edge, -owing to the hardness of the material; others were clad in padded -cotton or silk dresses, of every variety of colour, the head being -covered by turbans of thick and embroidered Cashmere, or plain white -muslin. They carried over their shoulders long matchlocks, inlaid with -silver or ivory. - -The Kuzzilbashes, or Persian mercenaries, were the only troops amongst -whom prevailed any uniformity, and they were generally distinguished by -a high, black, sheepskin cap, with a small red cloth top, and a sort of -frock dress, generally white, which reached to the knees, opening in -four places from the waist. Light deerskin boots, fitting closely to -the leg, completed this plain and serviceable costume. - -Amongst the cavalry were certainly some of the handsomest and most -powerful-looking fellows I ever saw; the complexions of many were -fairer than those of some of our own sunburnt veterans; and amongst -them, also, were some of the dirtiest, long-bearded, ferocious-looking -savages I had hitherto seen: men who would doubtless have taken no -small pleasure in carving and dissecting any luckless straggler from -our camp whom they might happen to meet singly and unarmed. The -descriptions I have read of the Huns and Goths who overran the Roman -empire in the fifth century, forcibly occurred to me as I marked their -personification on each side of the road, unaltered and unimproved -by a lapse of fourteen centuries; while the western emigrants have -progressed to a state of civilization and intelligence, having -subverted nations and monarchies in their resistless course. - -As we surmounted the hill near Urghundee, which is flanked by dark -lofty mountains, without a trace of vegetation, the peaks of the Hindoo -Koosh were visible, glittering in the morning sun from their snowy -summits. The intervening country, to the foot of this mighty barrier of -Afghanistan, presented a most unattractive appearance: an undulating, -rocky soil, with a few patches of short dry grass, extended apparently -a great portion of the way towards their foot. - -The guns remained in the same position in which they had been left by -Dost Mahomed, on high ground, and were ranged to command a gorge from -which our army issued. The ground, in front and rear, was flat and -favourable for cavalry, in which his principal strength consisted. -All that was requisite for the fray was a little more heart and less -distrust. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 31: The Zenana is the sanctum allotted to the ladies.] - -[Footnote 32: This compliment was addressed to Shah Soojah.] - -[Footnote 33: Governor of Scinde, afterwards, or as it was then -designated, "Political Agent."] - -[Footnote 34: Vide Burnes' Travels, vol. iii. p. 272.] - -[Footnote 35: The Ghilzies were the chief actors in the insurrection -and massacre of 1842.] - -[Footnote 36: One of our chiefs suggested, in the event of a night -attack, that the men should remain in their tents, and fire upon the -assailants from the cover thus afforded.] - -[Footnote 37: They expected Ghuzni to detain us many months, judging -from the difficulties it had presented in recent periods of Afghan -history.] - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -ARRIVAL AT CAUBUL--DEATH OF COLONEL ARNOLD--RETURN OF THE EXPEDITION IN -PURSUIT OF DOST MAHOMED--THE RUSSIAN BUGBEAR--FALL OF KHELAT. - - -On the morning of the 6th of August, the army moved through a -well-irrigated and woody valley, to the foot of a small hill, on the -further side of which lay the celebrated metropolis of Afghanistan. - -Next morning, accompanied by some of my brother officers, I visited -the city of Caubul, which lies under some steep and rugged hills -at the extremity of a flat and extensive valley, whose site at the -city was estimated at six thousand five hundred feet above the sea. -On surmounting the eminence on its western side, Caubul appears to -great advantage, lying immediately beneath, with the white tops of its -various structures peering out from amongst thick groves of almond, -walnut, plum, and various kinds of fruit trees which flourish in this -quarter of the city. - -Crossing a bridge over the Caubul river, and winding through some -narrow lanes, on each side of which were houses surrounded by gardens, -we entered the principal bazaar, which extends completely across -the city to the gates of the Bala Hissar, or Shah's palace. At the -commencement of the bazaar, we were much struck with the appearance of -the fruiterers' shops, where grapes, peaches, melons, pomegranates, -and other fruits, were tastefully hung amidst branches of trees, to -which they were suspended. This street entered a small square, which -looked much like an European market-place, the centre being occupied -by stalls of vendors of vegetables, milk, and ice, while the houses -in the square were occupied by tea, spice, and sherbet merchants. The -sight of the latter soon brought our party to a halt to enjoy the -unwonted treat of a bowl of iced sherbet. In Kandahar, the sherbet was -also sold cooled with snow, but the ice was acknowledged to be a great -improvement. From the further side of this market-place, an arched -bazaar, occupied entirely by silk and cloth merchants, conducted us -into a second square, tenanted by shawl makers and dyers. Thence we -passed through another well-thronged arcade into the third square, -where resided the tanners and dressers of sheepskins, for which Caubul -is celebrated. These skins are very neatly dressed, the wool being worn -next the body, and the exterior tastefully ornamented by embroidery in -silk of different colours. During the cold season, the working classes -usually wear long jackets of these skins, with short sleeves reaching -to the elbow, whilst the merchants, and those unaccustomed to manual -labour, adopt a warmer but less commodious mantle, which reaches to the -ankles. The black lamb-skins, brought from Bokhara and Persia for the -manufacture of caps, are highly prized; they are made of the skin of -the lamb immediately after its birth, and are extremely soft and glossy. - -Beyond this square, the bazaar becomes more narrow, and much more -noisy, as you enter the quarter occupied by saddlers and armorers, -who form no inconsiderable portion in the manufacture of articles so -requisite and so much used in this land of violence. The saddlery is -made of durable materials, though clumsily put together; and in the -armorer's shop,[38] it is a rare thing to find a piece of good steel -among the many fantastically shaped weapons, where the ingenuity of the -workman appears to have been called in play to invent these fanciful -methods of inflicting torture on his fellow-creatures. - -The Bala Hissar, standing apart on a mound which overlooks the city, -is surrounded by a rampart garnished with circular bastions, and -parapets, similarly to most of the fortresses of the East. The wall -was in somewhat bad repair on our arrival, but this was soon remedied -after the Shah had taken up his residence there. The place is of no -importance as a fortress, being completely commanded by the range of -hills in its immediate vicinity. The palace itself conveyed little idea -of grandeur to the spectator; but Shah Soojah took pains in rendering -it more consistent in appearance with the notions he entertains of the -dignity and state requisite for the abode of so mighty and independent -a monarch.[39] - -In a burying ground, near the Bala Hissar, was found a tomb, with an -English inscription, to the memory of one John Hicks, who died A.D. -1666. This monument formed a plentiful subject for conjecture as to -who this individual could have been, who had penetrated into a country -infested from time immemorial by hordes of robbers, who consider all -travellers, especially when alone and unprotected, as their legitimate -property. The Afghan tradition was, that two Europeans had arrived with -a Persian caravan in Caubul, and had entered the service of the Shah -of Afghanistan, and that this monument had been carved and built by -the survivor.[40] But what brought these adventurers into Afghanistan -is likely to remain a matter of some ambiguity at this distance of -time, especially as the _biographer_ of John Hicks contented himself -with inscribing the date of his death and the Christian names of the -deceased's parents, leaving the object and success of his travels a -mystery to puzzle and embarrass posterity. - -The city was thronged, on the morning Shah Soojah entered Caubul to -resume his seat on the throne of his ancestors, with the former -adherents of Dost Mahomed, and many a scowl was bestowed on the Shah -and his escort (consisting of a squadron of the 4th Dragoons, one of -the 16th Lancers, and some Horse Artillery) as they wended their way -through the streets, towards the palace, although none ventured to -offer any insulting language to the conquerors of Afghanistan. The -reception here was far different from that he had received at Kandahar, -where he was little known. He passed in solemn silence through the -bazaars, where, probably, but few spectators were present who had taken -an active part in his deposition thirty years since; yet tradition had -handed down many a tale of oppression, and, regretting the mild and -popular rule of Dost Mahomed, the inhabitants now submitted in silence -to the evil they could not remedy. Such was the general impression -conveyed by the demeanour of the soldiers and citizens; but, obedient -to the time-serving impulse which characterizes the venal soldiery of -the two nations, both the Kuzzilbashes and Afghan cavalry flocked to -tender their allegiance and services to the reinstated potentate. To -the loyal and civilized inhabitants of the north this comparatively -patient endurance of a change of masters may appear incredible; but a -perusal of the Afghan Dynasty will abundantly show that habit in this -respect, as well as in many others, becomes a second nature. In the -present instance, a considerable difficulty presented itself in the -number of candidates for military employ; the revenue of the country -being inadequate to maintain so large a force in addition to the -numerous contingent which had been levied for the Shah in Hindostan. On -the other hand, to reject the offers of these troublesome volunteers -was tantamount to the distribution of an equal number of malcontents -and robbers throughout Afghanistan, which was already abundantly -supplied with these industrious communities. For the present, a great -portion of the Kuzzilbashes were retained, and bodies of Afghan troops -were shortly afterwards to be seen on the Champ-de-Mars of Caubul, -practising, with laudable perseverance, the rigid miseries of the goose -step. - -A few days after our arrival the detachment which had been sent with -Captain Outram, in pursuit of Dost Mahomed, returned from their -laborious and unsuccessful chase. They had come within about twenty -miles of the fugitive, who was accompanied by fifteen hundred Afghans, -preferring to share the flight and dangers of Dost Mahomed to becoming -renegades. Hadji Khan was nearly frantic with fear when he found the -party had approached so much nearer the fugitives than he wished or -intended. He entreated the British officers to abandon the pursuit, -urging that their party was too small, and that not an Afghan of his -retinue would raise a weapon against Dost Mahomed. This appears to -have been one of the few truths he was known to utter, for the greater -part of his retinue had already deserted. The party, however, in spite -of all obstacles, strained every nerve to reach their object, but in -the snowy fastnesses of the Hindoo Koosh these hardy mountaineers were -not to be overcome, and the detachment was, at last, compelled to -relinquish the pursuit and return to Caubul, where Hadji Khan was put -in confinement, and afterwards sent as a prisoner to Hindostan. - -Many are of opinion that Hadji Khan was harshly used by the Indian -government, considering his ready adherence to the Shah on his arrival, -and assert that, having openly abandoned his master, it became -apparently his interest to secure his person. It is somewhat singular -that, amongst a nation of renegades and traitors, any partiality -should have been evinced in selecting an individual traitor, and one -who, being influential, might have been made useful; whereas, if all -had been convicted on suspicion, it would have been difficult to find -conveyances and prisons for the state prisoners. - -The Cavalry had now an opportunity offered them of replacing some -of the horses which had been lost, for a very small number had been -collected at Kandahar and Ghuzni. - -Being on tolerably good terms with the Afghans, we were now able to see -some of their best blood. The Government price for Cavalry remounts was -restricted to four hundred and fifty rupees each horse, which was one -hundred and fifty under the stud price, and the general opinion was in -favour of the Caubul horse, when he could be found of sufficient size; -but, generally speaking, they were so well fattened up for the market -that it required the eye of a good judge to detect faults under this -general rotundity. The horse dealers were also found, in every respect, -capable of competing with their brotherhood in England. - -The only instance of an Afghan dealer being "done," which I saw or -heard of, occurred on our march towards Caubul. - -A dealer, one morning, came into the Cavalry lines, bringing a -showy-looking nag for sale, which seemed a well bred animal, and -certainly cocked its tail and pawed the ground in a most imposing -manner. J----, a young Dragoon officer, who was a very respectable -jockey, asked the animal's price. "Fifteen hundred rupees," was the -modest request; "and you have not a sounder or fleeter animal in the -Feringhee camp," added the Afghan. J---- quietly noticed one or two -defects; and pointing to a little old chesnut Arab, who certainly -looked as if he were the ghost of some departed racer, but whose -muscle and sinews only required the hand upon them to be acknowledged, -offered to ride him a mile against the Afghan on his vaunted steed. The -dealer eagerly closed the wager for a hundred rupees, and the ground -was selected, as nearly as it could be guessed, for the distance. -The riders were soon up, (the Afghan apparently the heavier;) the -word was given, and away they went, the Afghan leading at a tearing -pace, flourishing his legs and whip, and chuckling and hallooing with -delight. J---- saw there was no necessity for collaring him, the -Afghan doing all that could be desired. When within fifty yards of the -winning-post, J----, having waited steadily on his competitor until -the sleek animal was beat, gave the gallant little Arab his head and -the Afghan the go-by, telling him to take his useless fifteen hundred -rupees' worth home, as he had beaten him with the slowest horse in the -regiment. - -The fame of this race must have preceded the army, for I never heard -another instance of an Afghan dealer wishing to match his horse for -speed against any of our chargers. Their own races are generally for -great distances, and the race-course is usually in the main road, -where rocks and sharp stones are not scarce; but the horses are shod -with a plate of steel which covers nearly the whole foot--a mode of -shoeing adopted almost throughout the army. The Caubul ponies were very -powerful and hardy animals, and have been much sought after and prized -in Hindostan. - -The Afghans do not appear to possess much attachment to their -sovereign, though the feudal system prevalent would induce a contrary -inference. Their merchandize fetching a favourable price, or the -success of a marauding party, constitute their chief concernment; and -the occupation of the musnud by a Barukzye, or Suddozye, is a matter of -secondary importance to all, save, perhaps, the members of those two -families, provided the people are unmolested in their avocations. In -such a case, the usual practice has been to get rid of the obnoxious -monarch as soon as a convenient conspiracy can be organized, which has -been rarely unsuccessful. An escort, or pass, from a mountain-chief, -will carry the bearer safely through that chief's territory; but he -must beware how he uses it beyond the assigned boundary, where it may -prove worse than useless. Afghanistan is occupied by such a variety of -tribes, each possessing their mountain fastnesses to retreat upon in -case of need--men under no control beyond the temporary influence of -their several leaders and chiefs--that it would certainly be an arduous -undertaking to reduce the country to a complete state of subordination. - -Under the different Shahs of Afghanistan, that portion of the people -only who could be attracted and held by interested motives rallied -round their king in times of trouble; and amongst so capricious and -disunited a people, the connecting link with their sovereign has always -been weak, and often broken. - -Whilst encamped in the vicinity of Caubul, a party of officers visited -some hills about ten miles distant, under the escort of a petty -mountain-chief, tributary to the Shah; the party were, of course, -hospitably received by himself and the tribe, but his jurisdiction did -not extend far. Pointing out the limits of his domain, he showed a -dark range of hills, barely thirty miles' distant, belonging, as he -said, to two chiefs, from whom Dost Mahomed had been unable to exact -tribute or submission, although their dwellings were almost within -sight of his palace-windows. - -Even at this time, the British authority could not be said to extend -beyond the chain of guards encircling our camp; for any soldiers -or camp-followers straying far from the lines at night, and not -unfrequently in the daytime also, stood a good chance of being shot, -or cut down by some band of marauders. This hapless state of affairs -remained unaltered during the whole time of our residence at Caubul. - -Having been encamped for a fortnight, eight miles south of Caubul, the -army were ordered to change ground to the north-eastern side, about two -miles from the Bala Hissar, and on the Peshawur Road. - -The day before moving, Brigadier Arnold (who had been suffering -severely from illness since the army left Kandahar) died, universally -regretted by the whole army, and especially by the 16th Lancers, -which regiment he commanded, and to whom his loss was irreparable. We -marched, in the evening, to the city; and the Lancers attended the -remains of their colonel to the grave, which was dug at the foot of a -steep, rocky mountain, about a quarter of a mile distant from the Bala -Hissar. The funeral procession was attended by nearly all the officers -of the army; and amongst them were few who had not experienced and -appreciated the merits of that gallant soldier, who was now borne to -the grave, from the effects of a bullet, which had pierced his breast -when charging with the 10th Hussars at Waterloo.[41] - -When the loose earth, which hides the tenement of the dead from the -last sad gaze of the living, was cast on his coffin, the sullen roar -of the cannon, which awakened from their reverie the abstracted group -of mourners, and ran, telling their tale of woe, amongst the craggy -precipices of the mountains of Caubul, found an echo of melancholy -which thrilled in the hearts of his bereaved friends. I turned from the -grave with the oppressive feeling of destitution which every soldier -must experience on losing as gallant a colonel as ever drew a sabre, -and as warm-hearted and accomplished a gentleman as even England can -produce: - - "Requiescat in pace." - -Reports were in daily circulation that Dost Mahomed had crossed the -Hindoo Koosh, and taken up his quarters with his brother-in-law, the -King of Bokhara, who had promised his aid to the fugitive monarch in -regaining the sovereignty, of which he had been deprived. Improbable -as this was,--for had such been the intentions of the King of Bokhara, -he would surely have advanced to the assistance of Dost Mahomed before -his kingdom had been wrested from him,--Dr. Lord, of the political -department, was sent with a military escort to cross the Indian -Caucasus, and convey despatches, as well as gain intelligence, in that -part of the country. The doctor had not reached Bameean, when, from the -exaggerated reports of the inhabitants, he was led to suppose that Dost -Mahomed, with a considerable force, was already between him and the -mountain-pass. Not desiring a personal interview with the deposed Shah, -whose arguments in favour of his own cause were likely to be weighty -and incontrovertible, the political doctor wheeled about, and hastened -to Caubul, where the intelligence induced Sir John Keane to order a -force, under Colonel Sale, to be in readiness to move towards Bameean. - -Two days after these orders were issued, news arrived that Dost -Mahomed, so far from crossing the Hindoo Koosh, was hastening in an -opposite direction, with as much speed as the worthy doctor had used in -his return to the capital. The force was consequently countermanded; -and a detachment only, consisting of part of the Shah's goorkhas, and -a few guns, were sent to occupy Bameean, which lies about eighty miles -from Caubul, at the foot of the mountainous barrier, which divides -Afghanistan from Bokhara. The road to this outpost was exceedingly bad; -and even the small force of artillery which accompanied the party, -delayed them nearly a fortnight, in crossing the rugged mountains and -ravines which obstruct the road from Caubul to Bameean. - -So much paper has been already wasted on the Russo-phobia, that it -would be superfluous to enter on a discussion of the obstacles which -might oppose a march from the Caspian to the Indian Caucasus, over a -country of which the little that is known has been gleaned from the -scanty details of a few adventurous travellers, stealing in disguise -over these inhospitable regions, and necessarily gleaning but meagre -information. But of the difficulties which would present themselves -to an army, on its arrival at the Hindoo Koosh, I think a very simple -estimate may be formed. The pass over those mountains, on account -of its elevation, and the heavy falls of snow which constantly occur -during the greater part of the year, is only practicable in the summer -months, which would ensure the advantage of knowing at what time to -expect an enemy. The road, by Herat, does not possess this advantage, -being the easiest and most frequented passage into Afghanistan; but -thence to Kandahar, the country possesses all the obstacles which -opposed our progress through Lower Afghanistan, which would seriously -affect a force whose strength and resources must have been materially -weakened during a laborious march from the shores of the Caspian, even -unopposed by an enemy. When arrived in the heart of Afghanistan, the -greatest difficulties would oppose themselves to the maintenance of so -numerous an army as would be requisite for so important an enterprise; -and the palpable truth, that amongst these barren mountains a small -army would be annihilated and a large one starved, must obtrude itself -on the minds of all who are qualified to canvass the dilemma. - -But an army which, by an effective commissariat and consummate -fortune, advanced with its efficiency but little impaired, towards -the frontiers of Hindostan, from the centre of Afghanistan, need not -hastily congratulate itself on the charms of ultimate success, for the -passages _out_ of that country present as formidable barriers as the -entrance _into_ it, and these are the true outposts to the defensive -frontier line of our Eastern Empire. - -The intricate pass of the Kyber on the one side, and that of the Bolan, -with the neighbouring Gundava, on the other frontier, being the sole -outlets for an effective army,[42] form the natural outworks to the -Indus, taken as a base of operations; and the policy which suggested -the isolated position taken up in Afghanistan, with the far distant and -imperfect lines of the Sutlej and lower Indus, was surely at variance -with the admitted principles of military defence. - -In either of the above-named passes, a small British force would -maintain their ground against any odds; for the defiles being in -many places not five yards in width, and flanked by craggy mountains -which rise nearly perpendicularly on each side in many places, the -numbers of the enemy would advantage him nothing, the heights being -in our possession, whilst a strong palisade and battery, thrown across -the road and covered by musketry from the adjacent heights, ought -effectually to check his progress.[43] - -That Russia _did_ meditate hostilities in the East may be inferred -from the detection of her envoy's intrigues at the courts of Persia -and Caubul; but the reliance to be placed on the faith and promises -of these agents may be fairly estimated from the observance of the -following article in a treaty between the Shah of Persia and the Ameers -of Kandahar. - - Dated June, 1838. - -Art. V. "If an enemy[44] should appear from any quarter, and the -sirdars should not be able to repel him themselves, the Shah of Persia -binds himself to supply the sirdars of Kandahar with troops, artillery, -and money, to whatever extent may be necessary, and not to withhold any -description of assistance or support." - -The treaty, from which this article is extracted, was remitted to -England by Dr. M'Neill. It is thus countersigned by Count Simonich, -the Russian agent: - -"I, minister plenipotentiary[45] of the government of Russia, will be -guarantee that neither on the part of H.M. &c. &c. &c., the Shah of -Persia, nor on the part of the powerful[46] sirdars shall there arise -any deviation from, or violation of, this entire treaty and their -engagements. - - (Signed) "L.S. SIMONICH." - -Notwithstanding these promises of vigorous assistance from Persia, -we had not the pleasure of meeting any portion of their armament in -the vicinity of Kandahar, nor, to the best of our knowledge, were any -Russian agents seen enforcing the Shah to perform Article No. V. of -the above-named treaty. Yet an enemy did appear unto the sirdars of -Kandahar, and from a quarter whence he had been many months expected, -and those "powerful" chiefs did not even make the experiment of their -ability to repel him. - -Perhaps this article of the Shah's treaty was founded on the chance of -the sirdars making the experiment; but, having adopted a more prudent -course, there can be no doubt that a king, who possesses so many -sublime titles as the Shah of Persia, would not be guilty of a breach -of faith; and therefore the Kandahar chiefs will speedily return from -Persia with artillery, troops, and money, to an unlimited amount; in -fact, sufficient (as the word "necessary," in the article quoted, -must imply) to expel the British from Afghanistan; and, moreover, it -is Count Simonich's duty to see this done. As Russia has disowned -the threats, and the author met a conveniently political death, we -may infer that the project of holding India with a chain of posts, -stretching over mountains and deserts more than the semi-diameter of -the globe in measurement, whilst the troublesome Dardanelles would -materially interfere with all commercial intercourse, when watched by -a British fleet, has been abandoned, and for the present a Russian -invasion of India may be deemed improbable. - -Although Afghanistan was now nominally subdued, the animosity and power -of many mountain-tribes was unabated, and a few hours' ride from Caubul -a cold-blooded murder was committed on Colonel Herring, commanding a -regiment of Native Infantry, on the march from Kandahar to join the -army at Caubul. About forty miles from the capital, he strolled from -camp in the evening, accompanied by two brother officers, with two -sepoys in attendance. The party reached the summit of a hill, not -more than a mile from the camp, when they descried a body of armed -mountaineers advancing rapidly towards them. As the intention of the -Afghans was evident, and their numbers considerable, Colonel Herring's -party retired towards camp; but the assassins gained on them; and, -in descending the hill, the Colonel, struck down by a stone or a -matchlock ball, was immediately butchered. One of the sepoys, who was -near Colonel Herring, in trying to defend him, was severely wounded, -and left on the ground for dead. The regimental guard, on the alarm -reaching the camp, hastened to the spot, but the miscreants had fled, -after perpetrating their brutal outrage. - -Shortly after the regiment's arrival at head-quarters, Sir John Keane -ordered a part of the 16th Native Infantry, under Major Maclaren, -accompanied by some irregular horse, to scour the neighbourhood, and -endeavour to ferret out the assassins. This object was successfully -attained, and the indefatigable Maclaren, having traced them to a hill -fort, assaulted and carried the place, when the garrison, conscious of -fighting with halters round their necks, made a determined resistance, -and were nearly all exterminated. This example had not the effect of -restraining the bloodthirsty disposition of other bands of marauders; -and the road between our camp and the city continued to be infested -with assassins after nightfall. A dragoon was cut down, a night or two -after, within a few yards of the standard guard, and similar instances -were constantly occurring during our residence in the country. So -expert were they at the practice, that retaliation could seldom be -made. One instance I must relate, of a singular shot made by a soldier -of a Dragoon regiment, who was skirting the hills, a few miles from -camp, in pursuit of snipe and partridge, with a fowling piece loaded -with small shot. He suddenly perceived an Afghan, forty paces from him, -kneeling behind a rock, on which he had rested his matchlock, to make -sure of his aim, and coolly waiting till his intended victim approached -a little nearer. The soldier instantly threw the fowling-piece to his -shoulder, fired, and rolled over his black game stone dead. A few shots -had entered the brain and temples, and told with deadly haste. - -As it was now considered improbable that any serious opposition to -Shah Soojah's authority would be attempted, an order was issued, -directing the Bombay column of the army of the Indus to return to their -presidency by the route we had advanced. - -On the 15th of September, 1839, our Bombay brethren quitted us, and -proceeded on their homeward route, destroying, on their way, some -petty hill forts, tenanted by refractory tribes. On approaching the -fortress of Khelat, the residence of Mehrab Khan, whose duplicity had -thrown such difficulties in our way by the promise of supplies, which -were never sent, a deputation was forwarded to that chief, demanding -atonement for his behaviour, and intimating, that nothing short of -the most unqualified submission to Shah Soojah's clemency would -avert the fall of his city and destruction of his power. Mehrab Khan -preferred reposing confidence in the temper of his cimeter rather than -in that of his sovereign; and General Willshire advanced upon Khelat -with a brigade of infantry, consisting of her Majesty's 2nd and 17th -regiments, and the 31st Bengal Native Infantry, accompanied by a troop -of horse artillery, and some irregular horse. The remainder of the -column pursued their way towards the mountain-passes. - -On approaching the fort, a large party of the enemy, who held -possession of the heights, opened their fire on the head of the British -column. The enemy were soon dislodged from this post by the infantry; -and, rushing from the heights into the city, were so closely pursued -by their assailants, that the gates were shut barely soon enough to -prevent the British from entering also. The troops, when falling back -under cover from the galling fire which was now poured upon them from -the walls of Khelat, lost several men. - -Two horse artillery guns came up without delay, and their fire -sufficed, in a few strokes, to crush the unprotected gate sufficiently -to render an assault practicable. General Willshire now ordered the -infantry to advance, which was hailed with the alacrity usual on -similar occasions. With a cheer, they rushed up the ascent, regardless -of the fire from the walls, and soon, beating down all opposition, -took possession of the city. Mehrab Khan, surrounded by many of his -chieftains and the greater part of the garrison, betook himself to -the citadel, but this was incapable of defence; and the prince, with -the greater part of his kinsmen and retinue, fell gallantly defending -themselves at the gateway. Amongst the chief and his sirdars, no -thoughts of surrender were harboured: each fought with a determination -which put all chance of quarter out of the question; but the flashing -cimeters of the Afghans, though wielded with the energy of desperation, -soon drooped before the irresistible stroke of the British bayonet, -which drank deeply that morning of the blood which, according to -Colonel Mitchel, it never had, and never possibly could, shed. - -When Mehrab Khan and his sirdars had fallen in the front of the -struggle, the remainder of the garrison surrendered; and thus, under -the prowess of British arms, fell the second important fortress of -Afghanistan, and with a rapidity which, to the Afghans, must have been -bewildering; for the bayonet glittered on the parapets of the citadel -in less than two hours from the time it was levelled to drive the enemy -on the heights under cover of the walls, which they fondly believed -impregnable. - -Such examples as had now been shown would, it was supposed, have taught -the Afghans the vanity of resistance; but many revolting lessons -of blood were yet requisite to teach these fierce mountaineers the -necessity of submission, and our resolution of benefiting them, whether -they wished it or not, with the inestimable advantages of civilization. -But this radical reform can never be consummated in our day; nor can I -imagine a more arduous undertaking than such a crusade would be amongst -a nation with whom the "lex fortioris" has been the established code of -centuries. - -The garrison of Khelat amounted to about two thousand men, as near as -an estimate could be formed; but the greater part of these fell during -the storm.[47] - -In General Willshire's force, which numbered about twelve hundred -men, the casualties were--one lieutenant and thirty men killed; four -captains, four subalterns, and ninety-seven men wounded; killed, Lieut. -Gravatt, 2nd, or Queen's Regiment. - -A great number of the wounded afterwards died before reaching Bombay, -which induced a supposition of the enemies' weapons having been -poisoned; but there seems no foundation for the report. The climate -below the mountain-passes was most probably the poison which carried -off so many gallant fellows. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 38: The best cimiters are of steel made in Persia, where they -are so hard and highly polished as to take the keenest edge; but this -makes them necessarily very brittle.] - -[Footnote 39: Had the Shah paid less attention to _meretricious_ -ornament, and more to its defensive requisites, it would have -contributed much to his credit and safety.] - -[Footnote 40: He must have been a stonemason, for it was beautifully -carved.] - -[Footnote 41: Colonel Arnold fell in the same charge, and with the same -squadron, as Howard, the kinsman of Byron, immortalized in "Childe -Harold".] - -[Footnote 42: The passes of Dera Ismael Khan, I have neglected to -notice, as, after an active survey, they were reported impracticable -for artillery.] - -[Footnote 43: Had Dost Mahomed adopted these measures, it is probable -Sir John Keane would never have obtained nobility.] - -[Footnote 44: At this period, there could be little doubt who were -the expected enemy, for Pottinger had proceeded, with a promise of -assistance, to Herat.] - -[Footnote 45: Russia denies this big word.] - -[Footnote 46: This irony is unbecoming the character of a -plenipotentiary.] - -[Footnote 47: The names of the chiefs who fell cannot be a matter of -general interest; but those who have any curiosity on the subject, may -find the list in General Willshire's despatch.] - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -THE ARMY AT CAUBUL BROKEN UP--MARCH OF SIR JOHN KEANE'S ESCORT BY -JELLALABAD, AND THROUGH THE KHYBER-PASS, TO PESHAWUR. - - -The army of the Indus having effected the object for which they had -been assembled, it was resolved to leave Shah Soojah to the charge -of his loving subjects, supported by the contingent, and a small -portion only of the force. The country being ill-adapted for cavalry, -the news that the brigade, excepting one native regiment, were to be -withdrawn, was received by the greater part with decided satisfaction; -for many began to pine with regret at the protracted absence from their -amiable halves; others were anxious to bind themselves in rosy (or -thorny?) fetters; and, last and least, a few, after a long and painful -estrangement, sighed deeply to participate once more in the pleasures -of that deity, whose benign influence has been said to surpass "all -that life can supply"--riches, love, ambition, friendship-- - - "For what tongue will avow - That friends, rosy wine, are so faithful as thou?" - -So wrote the virtuous and inconsistent Byron; and I have no doubt that -a few habitual drunkards may concur in such an opinion. - -The sole recommendation to Caubul was the temperate climate, which -served to invigorate many who had severely felt the fatigues and -exposure of this campaign, or who still suffered from the effects of -their Indian enemy. To those who took pleasure in an active life and -field-sports, our present quarters were irksome. The country possessed -no attractions for the sportsman; and even in the pursuit of small game -at any distance from camp, it was necessary to go prepared for more -serious encounters; inasmuch as any straggler from the party stood an -uncommonly good chance of being bagged by some Afghan huntsmen, whose -sporting propensities led them to pursue white game with quite as much -zest as ever, though, from the royal proclamation, it might be inferred -that the season had closed. - -Not satisfied with simply destroying their prey, these wild beasts -mutilated the dead bodies, and arranged them in fanciful attitudes. -Occasionally, a leg would be cut off, and placed under the head, for -a pillow; the head itself would sometimes be found supported by the -hands, in lieu of the neck; and I have seen things in a man's mouth -which were never intended by nature to occupy such a situation. - -To the antiquarian, Afghanistan presented some interest and employment -in the collection of coins and antiques: many of the former were bought -from the Afghans, bearing the names of the ancient Bactrian dynasty, -and successors of Alexander the Great. The Afghans had, however, -imbibed so great a taste for these antiquities, when they discovered -the value we set upon them, that the manufacture and sale of the most -ancient Bactrian coins is becoming a trade of some profit. Even at this -day, both the Sikhs and Afghans converse with great interest on the -feeble tradition they possess of events which occurred in the days of -Shah Sikunder (Alexander the Great) and his generals, who subsequently -governed this country. Alexander's Eastern expedition, the countries -which he traversed, the localities of his engagements, and the modern -names of the nations with whom he fought, have been much veiled in -obscurity, owing to the very slender knowledge possessed by Europeans -of the countries lying between Persia and Chinese Tartary. - -The numerous ancient coins and reliques, monuments of Grecian design, -the tradition of the natives, and the names borne by many ancient -cities of Afghanistan and the Punjaub, (some of which, at the present -day, assimilate much to those recorded by historians,) being matters -of recent discovery, will tend to assist the classic labourer in such -an investigation with materials which have hitherto been wanting or -imperfect. As several officers who were with the army have succeeded in -making extensive collections of ancient coins, I trust that, ere long, -these may tend to throw some light on the interesting subject. The -evidence of Alexander's advance into Hindostan, south of the Sutlej, -is very vague, especially as the princes of India made no attempt to -oppose his approach towards their frontier, as the more warlike nations -of Afghanistan and the Punjaub undoubtedly did; and Porus, with his -herds of elephants, marks pretty accurately the neighbourhood of the -Hydaspes in the modern Jelum, because the country north of Peshawur -is unfitted to nurture elephants. South of the Jelum or Hydaspes, -I conceive the difficulty of tracing his route to be much greater, -for the rivers are so numerous in the rainy season, and have changed -their courses so materially, that the modern streams must differ -considerably, both in number and position, from the ancient. - -The accounts from the north of the Hindoo Koosh, about the beginning of -October, showed the probability of a storm arising, ere long, in that -quarter, directed by the hand of Dost Mahomed; and, in consequence, Sir -John Keane ordered the whole of the Bengal infantry division to stand -fast, for the present, in Afghanistan, for the security of Shah Soojah, -who daily prophesied that our departure would be his death warrant. - -The commander-in-chief himself, having resolved on returning to -England, now signified in general orders, that on his departure the -supreme command would devolve on Sir Willoughby Cotton. - -The cavalry-brigade, (except the 2nd Native Cavalry, which was left -in Afghanistan,) with a detachment of the European Regiment, and a -few Sappers, formed the whole of the returning party escorting his -excellency. - -I little thought, at the time of quitting Bengal, that any fit of -desperation could ever induce me to look forward with anything like -pleasure to a residence in Hindostan; yet an experience of a few -months' sojourn in the inhospitable and dreary wastes of Afghanistan -proved that there were worse places on the face of this chequered globe -than India. - -Our retrospect, since leaving Merut, was not a very attractive one. -Nearly a year had now been spent under canvas, or, more frequently, -under the canopy of heaven, with a fierce sun scorching us unmercifully -by day, and occasionally a damp chill to vary it by night. During the -year, we had risen nearly every day about two or three hours before -daybreak, and undergone the monotonous and wearisome marches, which -resembled at last, in many respects, the morning's employment of a -malefactor at the treadmill; and, to crown all, we had arrived at -last in a country of rocks, savages, and starvation, where our chief -occupation consisted in hunting continually for an enemy, who took care -to deny us the excitement anticipated in the discovery. Such having -been, with trifling exceptions, the result of our campaign, every -source of employment, beyond that above mentioned, was confined to -the narrow limits of a little canvas world, peopled almost entirely -by the grosser sex of black and white; for the small portion of the -opposite sex and former colour who sojourned amongst us, were scarcely -attractive enough to remind one of the generic distinction which -existed. To these hardships, and others in addition, we would more -cheerfully have submitted, had an enemy kept us on the alert, and -played, on an extensive board, the rough game of war; but the only -enemies we had met were scarcely deserving such a name--ensconcing -themselves behind mud walls, or perched on inaccessible heights--and as -there appeared now little chance of tilting with the Afghan clans in -the open field, it was with feelings of pleasure we looked forward to -an emancipation from the barren mountains of Afghanistan. - -The Punjaub was, at this period, in so distracted a state, that the -government of the country betrayed a marked anxiety that we should not -become witnesses of their anarchy and disunion. Even in the days of -Runjeet Singh, the Sikhs beheld with feelings of uneasiness the advance -and establishment of the British outposts on the Sutlej; and the -passage of troops through their country caused even greater jealousy -and alarm, for they considered, not perhaps without some foundation, -from a few precedents in the East, that when the English had once got a -footing, they might take a fancy to remain there. - -In the present crisis of affairs, it was apprehended that these Sikh -scruples would act as a temporary obstacle to our departure; but, -fortunately for us, the court of Lahore yielded a reluctant assent to -our passing through their country, and on the morning of the 15th of -Oct. we quitted Caubul. - -The breaking up of a long-standing camp is a scene of no trifling -bustle and confusion. The previous day is usually one of considerable -trouble to those who have suffered their marching-establishment to get -out of order; and when it is requisite to replace a camel or a bullock, -the new comer, even if found, (and that is generally at a ruinous -price,) not unfrequently evinces the most marked repugnance to tents -or bullock-trunks. Yet, however great the difficulty, the peremptory -necessity of the habitation being moved before next morning, causes all -to be prepared at sunset, either by a reduction of baggage, or increase -of cattle, save the more provident campaigners, who rectify such -deficiencies without delay. The earliest practicable hours are kept by -all off duty, and two hours after sunset the camp (if well regulated) -is quiet enough, unless a horse breaks loose and sets the whole brigade -in a state of ferment; for all seem to take a deep interest in the -progress of any mad animal who tears through the camp, with ropes and -pegs flying in wild confusion about his heels. As night advances, -even these stray madcaps betake themselves to rest, and the quiet is -only disturbed by the hourly tramp of patrols, or the challenge of a -sentry. This gloom and stillness are suddenly dissipated by the shrill -startling blast of the trumpet, wakening all around to consciousness -and activity. The loud and continued neigh from the pickets, and the -angry remonstrances of the camels, amidst the extensive buzz of human -voices and barking of dogs, tell that man and brute are both aware of -the time having come for their allotted duties. Sticks and dry grass -raked into pyramids are sending forth volumes of smoke in one place, -and in another are rising into high crackling fires, round which may -be seen groups of dusky figures squatted together, inhaling their -morning hookahs, or spreading their long bony hands to the flames, and -listlessly regarding their more assiduous brethren occupied in striking -the tents, or fitting loads on the backs of the beasts of burden. But -think not, my lazy fire-worshipper, this indolence is unobserved; the -eye of the occupant of yonder tent is upon you: he advances softly -towards the fire, his arm is raised, and the descending lâttie causes a -momentary scene of flight and confusion which is immediately succeeded -by a zealous attention to duty, proving the salutary force of the -"Argumentum ad baculum." Although this is not an orthodox, logical, or -even legal argument, it is, nevertheless, frequently used in India, -and is generally conclusive. Next morning, the voice, unaccompanied by -manual exercise, will produce the desired effect. - -The loads being packed, and all the tents, save three or four lazy -stragglers, having disappeared, the second trumpet sends its shrill -echoes through the lines, and gives warning that the treadmill will -soon be at work. Beware of that camel's mouth gaping close to your hand -in the dark, or he will spoil it for holding a rein or a sabre; and -beware the treacherous tent-peg, which lurks in savage gloom for the -shins of the unwary. "It is no use cursing the peg. Why did you not get -out of its way when you found it was not inclined to get out of yours?" -cries a facetious neighbour, as you stoop to rub the lacerated shin, -and narrowly escape being trampled by an elephant, who is hustling off -with a few hundred weight of canvas and tent-poles hanging about him. - -The third trumpet and a cup of _boiling_ coffee generally accompany -each other, if your khansanah belong to the right Dean Swift's breed; -and it is no punishment to insist on his drinking it himself--the man -would swallow a cup of cayenne and fire, without winking. - -The troops are formed in dusky masses on their alarm-posts; the -commanding-officer rides along the line; the word of command is given, -and passed down the squadrons; the welcome note for the march is heard, -and the tramping of the steeds raises an impenetrable cloud of dust -around the column, as we cheerfully turn our backs on Caubul, most -probably for ever; the band prophetically striking up, "Ha til mi -tulidh," or something which I mistook for it. - -Sir John Keane marched with the head column, consisting of the 16th -Lancers, one troop of Horse Artillery, and four companies of Native -Infantry. General Thackwell followed, the next day, with the 3rd Native -Cavalry, detachments of Infantry, and the state prisoners, Hyder Khan, -late governor of Ghuzni, and Hadji Khan Kaukur. The former was destined -for Bombay, the latter, for Bengal, where it was intended to place him -in close confinement at Chunar, on the Ganges; but this was afterwards -commuted for a more salutary and agreeable durance at Landour, where -Hadji Khan had little cause to complain of the severity of his captors. - -The 2nd Bengal Cavalry, which were left at Caubul, soon afterwards had -an opportunity of distinguishing themselves at Purwan Durrah, in an -encounter with Dost Mahomed. The Ameer having been nearly surrounded -by his enemies, and entertaining a low opinion of the courage of the -Native Cavalry, resolved to dash through the circle at the post held -by the above-named corps, and accompanied by a determined body of his -adherents, he charged two squadrons of the 2nd Cavalry. - -The officers of the regiment having tried unsuccessfully to induce -their men to follow, formed a line, and gallantly charged the Afghan -force. Three of the regiment were killed, and most of the remainder -severely wounded; but such was the moral effect of this behaviour, -that Dost Mahomed exclaimed, "that war against such a nation must be -hopeless." - -The dastardly black fugitives who had been spectators, during their -flight, of the self-devotion and butchery of their officers, spread -themselves in the wildest disorder and affright, but the avenging -cimeters of the Afghans soon flashed amongst them, and dealt a partial -retribution for their detestable cowardice. - -The number of this regiment was afterwards erased from the list of the -Company's troops, and the corps was disbanded at Kurnaul, with the -exception of one squadron, which, not having been present at Purwan -Durrah, was distributed throughout the remaining regiments of Native -Cavalry. The officers were provided with various situations in the -Company's service, and subsequently incorporated in a new cavalry -regiment, (the 11th.) - -Some attempts to palliate the conduct of the 2nd Cavalry, on this -occasion, have been attempted; and I have heard it adduced in -extenuation, that the men (save the mark!) had no confidence in their -arms and equipments or their _horses' bits_--that they reverenced Dost -Mahomed and the Afghans as the heads of their religion[48]--and that -British cavalry have also been known to be backward. - -Regarding the first of these assertions, we need but ask--Is not the -Native Cavalry soldier as carefully instructed in the use of his weapon -as the English Dragoon? If he be, there is no reason for his running -away. If he be not, I cannot admit that a brave man is likely to run -away with a piece of English steel in his hands, because he thinks he -is not sufficiently instructed in the use of the sabre, or because he -prefers Hindustanee manufacture. - -In answer to the second apology, it is only requisite to state, that if -they did respect the Afghans as brother Mussulmans, experience should -long before have taught them that the feeling was by no means mutual. -The irregular horse were affected with no such compunctions, but -evinced a laudable desire to destroy their enemies, when called upon to -do so, on several occasions, in Afghanistan. - -To the third charge, I must plead guilty of ignorance; for I cannot -remember having heard or read of any British cavalry regiment -absconding in the face of an enemy, and leaving their officers to -charge, unaided by a single trooper of the corps.[49] - -On quitting our camp at Caubul, we marched over a rough and stony -road for about ten miles, and encamped on some high grounds. In the -afternoon, we experienced a smart shock of an earthquake here, which -appeared to come rumbling towards us from the mountains of the Hindoo -Koosh, and upset nearly everything in our tents. From the elevated -ground on which we were encamped, we had a farewell view of Caubul and -the noble chain of the Indian Caucasus, still clad in bright snowy -garments. - -The next morning, we entered a steep, rocky[50] pass, between two -ranges of mountains, where the cold before sunrise was intense, and -the aspect certainly the most dreary we had hitherto experienced. We -emerged, half frozen, from this stony sepulchre, and gladly thawed -ourselves in the sun, which shone dimly on the platform of rock where -our camp was pitched. - -Each day, as we advanced, the roads (if they can be deemed worthy such -a title) became decidedly worse. Our third day's march lay through -another narrow defile, across which dashed several rapid mountain -torrents at intervals of about a mile from each other. The next day's -occupation was a steep, rocky ascent, and an equally sudden fall, -which caused a corresponding one with our unfortunate beasts of burden. - -A succession of deep, stony ravines, and occasionally sharp-pointed -rocks, presented the next variety. - -On the 7th of March, we wound up a long gradual ascent of some twelve -or fourteen miles, and on descending from this elevation two guns were -discovered not far off the road, embedded in the sand. These had been -abandoned here by Dost Mahomed's son, (Mahomed Akbar,) when retreating -from the gorge of the Khyber to join his father previous to their -flight from Urghundee. - -On the eighth march from Caubul, we descended into the celebrated -valley of Neemla, where Shah Soojah had been finally defeated in 1809, -and expelled from his kingdom. It is a small, well-cultivated valley, -surrounded by barren, craggy mountains, (as is the case, indeed, -with almost every valley in the country.) If the numbers present at -this battle are correctly stated, it must have been a business of -tolerably close quarters, and little scope could have been afforded -for manoeuvring: but the Afghans are not much addicted to wasting time -in military operations. A favourite mode of attack is the chupao, or -surprise by night, (which was practised at Neemla,) and if the enemy -be found prepared, or the first charge prove unsuccessful, they prefer -reserving their energies for a more favourable opportunity, to pressing -the matter any further under such critical circumstances as a spirited -resistance might entail. The party making the night attack certainly -act under the more favourable circumstances of the two, as in case of -failure a retreat is open under cover of the darkness, and unmolested; -whereas, the party attacked once getting into disorder, can scarcely -hope to rally under such disadvantageous circumstances. Thus it was -at the battle, or, rather, the route of Neemla, where Shah Soojah was -encamped, with a force exceeding fifteen thousand men, whilst his -adversary, with barely two thousand fighting men, coming down suddenly -during the night, took the Shah so completely by surprise, that he -forthwith devoted all his attention to preserve his own royal person, -leaving his army to do all the fighting part without any general. Of -course they soon got into hopeless confusion, and followed the example -of their prudent master before the chiefs were able to marshal their -numerous forces. Such are the chances and vicissitudes of war. Want of -timely information, a picket ill posted, or a vidette falling asleep, -may cause the loss of an army and an empire. - -The tenth march from Caubul brought us to the green and lively-looking -valley which contains Jellalabad, and the march between this and -Caubul, which we had now happily overcome, was unanimously allowed -to be the worst we had experienced. Our camels had certainly great -cause to complain, and they neglected not to do so; but man and beast -endured much on this march--the former a pecuniary, the latter a bodily -suffering--let naturalists decide which endured the heavier affliction. - -Jellalabad[51] is an insignificant place of itself, though situated in -a fertile valley, through which rolls the clear Caubul river, washing -the foundations of the city walls, and they certainly required no -impotent scavenger. It has been selected as a residence by the kings -of Caubul for the winter season, owing to the mildness of the climate, -from its depressed situation, (about two thousand feet above the sea;) -and this recommendation induced the commander-in-chief to select it -as winter quarters for the greater portion of the army remaining in -Caubul during the ensuing cold season. - -According to the prevalent opinion, Jellalabad lays claim to -considerable antiquity, as it has been supposed to represent the -site of ancient Nysa. Numerous copper coins, as well as some curious -antiques, have been from time to time collected in the vicinity of this -place by the natives. Unfortunately, nearly all the gold and silver -coins and reliques have been melted down, as the natives themselves -admitted, and converted into bangles, nose-and-ear rings, or other -ornaments, for the dusky beauties of Jellalabad. Several copper -coins, bearing the name of Hermæus, king of Nysa, distinctly legible, -were bought amongst the country people. The inscription was in Greek -letters, and as follows: - -ΒΑΣΙΑΕΟΣ ἙΡΜΑΙΟΥ ΣΩΤΗΡΟΣ. - -Those of the Bactrian monarchs found in different parts of the country -are also in Greek; and the figures and hieroglyphics on the coins -have been converted, by erudite conjectures, into an endless variety -of meanings. Heaven, earth, and sea have been ransacked to discover -the symbolical allusions on a piece of grangrened copper; and the -half-effaced toes of a Bactrian savage were successively mistaken -for the signs of the Zodiac, the trident of Neptune, and a Barbarian -coronet.[52] By dint of much cleansing, the toes became apparent, then -appeared the legs; and over them, the body and intellectual countenance -of the tiresome Hermæus shone conspicuous, with a well-flattened nose, -and a pair of monstrous eyes, one of which seemed to leer with a -knowing expression of cunning on his indefatigable polishers. - -Near Jellalabad, we found encamped some of Runjeet's Mussulman troops, -which had accompanied Colonel Wade through the Khyber Pass, about three -months previously, when that distinguished officer advanced upon Ali -Musjid, and opened his batteries on that remarkable fortress. The siege -was conducted with such vigour, and so severe was the effect of the -cannonade, that the loss on the part of the besieged must have been -very serious, although the exact number of the sufferers could not be -ascertained. Colonel Wade's losses, in killed and wounded, during the -investment, amounted to something less than two hundred, which was -about the strength of half the garrison. - -In the course of the first night after the investment of Ali Musjid, -intelligence reached the garrison of the fall of Ghuzni, and of -the return of Mahomed Akbar with his forces from the mouth of the -Khyber towards Caubul. This news, it is supposed, coupled with the -_incalculable_ losses of the previous day, induced the Khyberees to -evacuate Ali Musjid during the night. Next day, the fortress was -joyfully taken possession of by Col. Wade; and that celebrated despatch -was penned which informed Lord Auckland and the people of India that, -in consequence of "The capture of Ali Musjid, and the successful -advance of the British forces into Afghanistan, there remained no doubt -of the speedy dethronement of Dost Mahomed, and the favourable issue of -the Afghan campaign." - -Having quitted Jellalabad, we proceeded along the banks of the Caubul -river, which is here skirted for some distance by a stony plain, -over which the deadly simoom is said to be an occasional traveller -during the hot season. Five marches from Jellalabad brought us to the -gorge of the formidable Khyber Pass, the position occupied by Mahomed -Akbar at the opening of the campaign. The mountains through which -this defile runs are inhabited by the Khyberees, a tribe who have -from time immemorial exacted tribute of all passengers through their -gloomy mountains, and Dost Mahomed himself considered it politic to -pay them annually a large sum to keep open the pass for traffic, as -well as to secure so formidable a barrier against any sudden freak of -his hereditary enemies in the Punjaub. These troublesome mountaineers -also succeeded in exacting contributions from the inhabitants of the -Peshawur district, in payment for a stream of water which issued from -the Khyber mountains, and supplied the frontier position of the Sikhs -at Futtehghur. - -Colonel Wade, in his passage through this defile, endeavoured to treat -with the chiefs of the Khyberees; and even bribed some of them, by a -considerable bonus, to ensure a free passage; but, subsequently, so -many presented themselves to demand bribes, that the negotiation bade -fair to become expensive, and it was evident that this hydra was more -amenable to steel than gold. - -Many of the chiefs had expected payment, for the use of their -productive mountains, on the return of the army through the Khyber -pass, but part of Colonel Wade's force had returned, and no bribes for -the chieftains had accompanied them. The Khyberees, therefore, were -much exasperated at the prospect of a failure of revenue; and, fearing -that if once the precedent of passing freely through their mountains -were established by the British, their black mail might henceforth be -reduced to a cipher, they vowed vengeance on the first intruders, and -had now an opportunity of trying the experiment. - -The entrance of the Khyber much resembles that of the Bolan pass, -except that the footing was the same as on a beach of shingles in the -former, and in the latter a platform of rock. On our flanks rose abrupt -rocks, during the first day's march, untenanted by animal or vegetable; -barrenness held undisputed rule. - -On the second day, we ascended a steep mountain by a path resembling -those cut on the Missourie and Landour range, and, descending by a -similar road of about ten feet in breadth and occasionally less, -entered a valley of some extent, sprinkled with several little villages -and some melancholy grainfields. Traversing this valley, we entered a -narrow, rocky defile, and following the course of a mountain torrent by -its narrow passage through the beetling rocks, arrived, unmolested by -the Khyberees, at Ali Musjid, after a march of about fifteen miles. - -This fort, which stands on a steep hill about three hundred yards -from the gorge of the stony defile above mentioned, had been occupied, -since Colonel Wade's departure, by an officer of Native Infantry with -a levy of Mooltanee recruits and a few sepoys. During the summer, the -place had been found so extremely unhealthy that a great portion of -the garrison died, and most of those who escaped were left in a very -weak state. Inside the fort itself there is no water, and this useful -article was brought by the garrison from a water-course and well, -about three hundred yards distant from the walls. As there were no -cannon in this formidable place, the possession of the water-course -became very precarious in case of the enemy attempting to cut off -the communication. The Khyberees, well aware of these disadvantages, -came down, latterly, nearly every night to attack the place; but -were gallantly repulsed by the little garrison as often as they -came, and frequently with considerable loss. Five days before our -arrival, a regiment of Sikhs, from Peshawur, amounting to nearly eight -hundred, although many were in a sickly state, had occupied a small -stockade,[53] on an eminence, about one mile distant from Ali Musjid, -for the garrison of which place they had brought supplies. - -During the night, this regiment was suddenly attacked by a force of -about two thousand Khyberees. The Sikhs defended themselves within -their stockade for above an hour, when their ammunition being spent, -and the enemy still pressing hard upon them, they quitted their -entrenchments in the hopes of effecting a retreat upon Ali Musjid. No -sooner had the unhappy men evacuated their stronghold than they were -surrounded by their merciless foes, and nearly the whole regiment was -destroyed. Not twenty men, it was believed, escaped to bear these -disastrous tidings to Peshawur. The little garrison in Ali Musjid had -been effectually prevented from attempting a diversion in favour of -their unfortunate allies, by a force of Khyberees, which were stationed -so as to intercept the communication between the fort and the stockade. -Had any part of the garrison, under such circumstances, quitted Ali -Musjid, they must inevitably have been overwhelmed by the Khyberees, -and in the darkness of night would, in all probability, have shared the -fate of the Sikhs; but no doubt was entertained in Ali Musjid that the -stockade would make good its defence. - -We arrived late in the afternoon, and encamped by this field of -recent slaughter, which presented a dreary spectacle; the effluvia -arising from the half buried bodies and limbs of the Sikhs was almost -poisonous, though it seemed to give no inconvenience or nausea to the -Pariah dogs and vultures who were enjoying the ample repast provided -for them by and upon the lords of the creation. - -An attack on our camp being anticipated at this place, orders were -issued, prohibiting both officers and men from quitting the lines, and -a chain of sentries were posted, in the evening, on the summit of the -lower range of hills which encircled our camp. - -None of my baggage having made its appearance at nightfall, I fully -made up my mind to the loss of such part of the wreck as remained, -and seated myself, for the night, on a rock, where, having loaded -my pistols in anticipation of the Khyberees' visit, I awaited that -important event. - -It was a bright starlight night. All in camp were hushed in sleep, save -the guardians of the lines, who testified their vigilance by striking -the hours on a lugubrious sounding gong, or by the ringing of their -arms as the patrols or reliefs traversed the encampment. - -As I sat in contemplation of the still scene around me, the solemn -thought occurred that in a very few hours, this deathlike stillness -might be locked in that sleep to be disturbed only by the sound of -the last trumpet. That band of eight hundred Sikhs, which lay here but -five nights past, slept on, in all probability, (until aroused by the -war notes of the Khyberees,) with the same careless security that my -fellow-soldiers were now enjoying, and they awoke to be slain, in one -short hour-- - - "A thing - O'er which the raven flaps her fun'ral wing." - -It is a strange sensation that interview which we are constrained to -hold with death; yet, with all the imaginary terrors in which he is -clad, the brave man readily meets him face to face. That those only -who are, morally speaking, prepared to die, fear not death, is too -wild a theory to be maintained: for many of us have seen the hardened -malefactor advance, with unfaltering step and fearless aspect, to the -scaffold, while in the ranks of the timid have been numbered some of -the best of mankind. - -And my fellow-countrymen here, who have, at least, been educated in -the constant hearing of the word of God--are they more fitted to die -than those miserable heathens were, whose carcases are now tainting -the atmosphere? Let those who are more competent to judge of such -matters decide. We, who, according to the declaration of our divines -and the boast of government, are sent out to retain possession of this -vast country, and to exhibit to the benighted natives the benefits and -example of Christianity, have performed the latter part of our ministry -in a singular manner, unless it is to be effected by daily instances -of blasphemy, drunkenness, and debauchery, that the natives of India -are enabled to witness. And yet they have been inapt scholars, for -we have failed signally in propagating amongst them the two former -accomplishments, and I question much if they have excelled us in the -latter. And yet let it not be imputed to us that we are the only, or -the greatest, transgressors. Let the traveller who has wandered through -the bazaars of Cairo, Bombay, Caubul, Delhi, or Canton, and marked -the character and occupation of the Mussulman, Gheber, and idolator, -compare them with the gin palaces, cafés, bull fights, and gardens or -thoroughfares of London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna, and Naples, and exult -(if candour will admit) in the moral advantages of civilized Europe. I -ask him not to visit the palaces of the aristocracy, or the church and -chapel; in the former he will gain no knowledge, and in the latter, -perhaps, too much; for, of all sciences, theology has become the most -abstruse; and he who can recognise the immaculate precepts of Jesus of -Nazareth, amidst the fiery and relentless hostilities of modern sects, -must be an unhappy man. For my own part, the nice distinctions of party -in the early history of the church, the difficulty of deciding between -the mighty and learned differences of the Christian fathers, and the -inability to distinguish between the Homoosion and the Homouosion -quite disheartened me, at the outset, in the study of divinity; and -in modern days the fiery animosities of catholic and protestant, -transubstantiation, predestination, the gown and surplice riot, and -pulpit mendicity, drove me from the church portals to take refuge in -the book. - -But, after this peregrination of the globe, to return to India: is -it by the example of the better-educated classes, and the stern and -impartial dealing of justice, that the natives of the East are to form -an estimate of our superior wisdom and excellence? If so, let them -look to some in the high places of this land, and be staggered at the -display of erudition, wisdom, and righteousness; and let them judge -of our notions of rigorous justice from the policy which dictated the -expedition from which we are now returning. Have we not marched into -the kingdom of Caubul, and without any pretext or right, save the -"lex fortioris," wrested the sceptre from the hands of one monarch, -the favourite of his subjects, as far as any Afghan could be so, to -transfer it to those of another, (and one avowedly of a tyrannous -and execrable disposition,) after shedding the blood of those who -stepped forward in defence of him whom they probably conceived to be -their rightful sovereign? It can hardly be assumed that the desire of -establishing legitimate rights led us romantically forth on the Caubul -expedition; for the government of India held friendly intercourse with -Dost Mahomed for many years, without questioning his sovereign rights, -and only discovered how ill-used a man Shah Soojah had been, when Dost -Mahomed showed a disinclination to enter into hostilities with those -who were deemed to be averse to British influence. - -I had just come to the above conclusion, when a tramping behind aroused -me from my reverie; and starting up, I was agreeably surprised to find -that all my camels and servants had walked safely into camp. I rolled -myself in a cloak, and making a comfortable resting-place of the folds -of canvas composing the fly of the tent, soon became insensible alike -to the immoralities of mankind and the intentions of the Khyberees. - -The morning sun, when I awoke, had burst brilliantly forth, even upon -the desolate and gloomy mountains of the Khyber, trying, but in vain, -to bid them look cheerful; and the night, contrary to all expectations, -had passed without an alarm. In the afternoon, the second column, under -General Thackwell, arrived at Ali Musjid; and orders were issued for -our march out of the Khyber Pass the following morning. In consequence -of the reports which had reached camp of the intention of the Khyberees -to attack us, the two companies of sappers and miners formed our -advanced guard, and the cavalry were disposed in single files on the -flanks of the baggage, with a rallying-party from each squadron in -rear, as a point of formation in case of a descent from the mountains. - -We marched, at daybreak, along the rugged course of a torrent, which -had now degenerated to a shallow, trickling stream. High, barren -mountains beetled above and almost over our track; and frequently -their bases approached so near to one another, that six could scarcely -ride abreast. At every step, we expected to see our enemies make -their appearance on the heights, from whence they might almost with -impunity have done us any injury which their long rifles, or juzzails, -were capable of inflicting; but, singularly enough, not an enemy was -to be seen, and we passed unmolested through the rugged defile. At -about six miles from the outlet, we encountered a large body of Sikh -troops occupying the road, whilst detachments were posted above them -on the heights. These belonged to the army of the frontier, stationed -at Peshawur. With their national modesty, they failed not to inform -us that they were our deliverers from the hands of the Khyberees; -and loudly proclaimed, that without their co-operation, we never -should have escaped from the jaws of the Khyber Pass. Nevertheless, -these heroes had taken the precaution of not advancing into the most -arduous part of the defile; and previously to the British advance into -Afghanistan, they had not been much acquainted with the geography of -these mountains. - -Towards the exit of the Pass, the mountains, though loftier and nearly -as abrupt, recede considerably from one another. On emerging from -them, we entered an extensive plain, and encamped near the fort of -Futtehghur, which was lately built by Runjeet Singh as a frontier -position. Near its walls, a long line of dusky tents marked the -station of the Peshawur forces. Our lines were soon overrun by swarms -of inquisitive Sikh warriors, mounted on lean, weedy horses, and -carrying lances and beards of nearly equal length. - -We marched early the following morning. The ground we quitted was soon -occupied by the rear column, which also passed unobstructed through the -defile with the state-prisoners. - -The Sikhs raised a yell of execration and abuse at the sight of -Hadji Khan; but he, turning in his saddle with a smile of contempt, -exclaimed-- - -"Yelp on, ye dastardly curs--it was not _your_ prowess which made me a -captive! Many a time, at the head of a few brave Afghan followers, have -I made ye sing a different song; and, with Allah's help, I trust I may -live to do so again!" - -On the morning of the 7th of November, we crossed the rich valley of -Peshawur, and approached the city, having bidden adieu to the rocks and -deserts of Afghanistan without a single regret, and with the fervent -hope of never revisiting the realms of our ally, Shah Soojah. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 48: Most of the Company's cavalry regiments are composed of -Mussulmans.] - -[Footnote 49: A few days after this skirmish, Dost Mahomed surrendered -himself to the envoy, and was sent a prisoner to Hindostan.] - -[Footnote 50: This was the pass of Khoord Caubul, afterwards memorable -in General Elphinstone's final retreat from Caubul.] - -[Footnote 51: The well-known site of Sir Robert Sale's gallant defence.] - -[Footnote 52: The coin which caused so much trouble and conjecture is -now in my possession.] - -[Footnote 53: The stockades are made of loose stones and beams.] - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -PESHAWUR--SKIRMISHES WITH THE KHYBEREES ACROSS THE -INDUS--MANIKYALA--THE PASSAGE OF THE JHELUM. - - -The approaches to the city from the north-east are commanded by a large -fort, recently completed by the assistance of some French officers, and -under the eye of General Avitabilè. - -The fort is surrounded by a dry ditch, and constructed on modern -principles of fortification, but placed in such convenient proximity -to the city, as to obviate the necessity of opening trenches and -labouring at parallels in case of a siege. Passing immediately under -this stronghold, we wound along the outside of the low mud-walls which -surround Peshawur, and encamped on its Eastern front. The city seemed -of enormous extent, and contained, as we were told, more than twelve -thousand houses within its walls; but certainly the greater part of -them were better adapted for pigsties than dwelling-houses. - -The government of this district was in the hands of General Avitabilè, -an Italian officer, who had served for a long time under Runjeet Singh, -and had been raised by him to distinction and wealth. His government, -although severe, was generally allowed to have kept the savage -neighbours of the adjacent mountains in more terror and subjection -than any former governor was enabled to attain. According to Runjeet's -code, no capital punishment was inflicted on the Sikhs by law; but this -was in no way applicable to the marauders dwelling in the hills which -border Peshawur, on whom, as well as over the Mussulman population -of Peshawur, the governor occasionally endeavoured to make up for -Runjeet's misplaced leniency. Numerous examples of punishment were -presented to our view near the city walls on the high palm-trees, to -which were appended strings of such acorns as Trois Echelles and Petit -Andrè loved to adorn the oaks of Plessis les Tours with in the days -of Louis Onze. On every side of the city, were seen well-furnished -gibbets, or frail and wasted relics of humanity, strung upon beams, -nailed between the blighted palms. Those who had recently been promoted -to their exalted situations were favourites with the kites and -vultures, whose discordant screams of health and prosperity to Governor -Avitabilè, whilst circling round their hideous repast, were gloomily -answered by the rattling and clatter of some well-picked skeletons, as -they swung to and fro in the evening blast. Disgusting as these objects -seemed, we must nevertheless, according to the opinion and quotation of -an American traveller, hail them as testimonies of civilization. If an -appeal to the worst passions of mankind be a test of civilization, Mr. -Willis is in the right; but I confess I have felt much more gratified -in seeing a rude and uneducated Hindoo turn with loathing from the -execution of a criminal about to be blown from a cannon than I have at -the exhibition of thousands of my countrymen struggling for places, -and paying high prices for seats, to witness the protracted, dying -struggles of a malefactor and fellow-sinner. - -In Afghanistan, no sooner is the light applied to the touchhole of -the cannon,[54] than the limbs of the victims are distributed to the -winds of heaven; but in England, in Christian England, where societies -for preventing cruelty to animals have been established, and rewards -offered for the speediest method of ending the sufferings of beasts, -the agonies and struggles of a fellow-creature, whilst undergoing a -death, (which, according to the letter of the law, is not expected to -be instantaneous,[55]) are deemed a fit subject for the entertainment -of the multitude; for it is notorious that Englishmen prefer attending -an execution to any other resort of public amusement. Yet this -disgusting spectacle, this barbarous relic of despotic authority, is -to be exhibited and justified solely on the plea of example. I cannot -bring myself to believe that one solitary mortal was ever deterred -from committing a murder by the fact of his having witnessed a public -execution; whereas the very notoriety has been known to excite men to -earn the vile publicity. - -At Peshawur, the systematic method of suspension _by the neck_ was not -universally adopted, for the fancy of the executioner was occasionally -shown by a varied figure of victims suspended alternately by the head -and heels. At Peshawur, also, has been revived the nearly obsolete, but -classical, punishment of skinning alive. The executioner begins this -operation by raising the skin on the soles of the feet, which is then -torn in strips upwards, and the wretched creature is left vainly to -wish for the relief which death sometimes does not afford within two -hours of the infliction. - -Cutting off the arms and legs, and steeping the stumps in hot oil, -putting out the eyes, or docking the ears of the culprits, are the -milder corrections for minor delinquencies. - -I shall not attempt to deny that the daring atrocities which have been -perpetrated require to be restrained with a strong hand, and punished -with death, but the protraction of suffering cannot, I think, be -exculpated. If life must be taken, let it be done without parade or -procession, and, above all, let it be instantaneous. - -On the evening of our arrival, the governor entertained the officers of -the first column with a banquet and fête, at his palace in Peshawur. -The edifice and gardens glittered with brilliant illuminations, and a -splendid display of fireworks was the prelude to the banquet. The table -groaned under a weight of food which far surpassed in quantity any -accumulation of the kind of which I have partaken; but, alas, I must -confess my utter ignorance of the vocabulary of the cuisine; and though -I was fortunate enough to sit by the side of a man who enumerated every -dish, and dignified some with very uncommon names, I was too absent or -too stupid to remember them. - -Many complained of the want of recherche of his cook; but possibly he -conceived that, after the experience we had recently had of scarce and -coarse fare, dainties and the more abstruse arts of cookery would have -been wasted upon us. For my own part, I confess that the paraphernalia -of the surrounding gibbets haunted me so much at the table that I could -hardly take my eyes off an immense cone of rice, piled on a huge dish -in front of the master of the feast, and as the snowy covering was -shaken off, I could scarcely persuade myself that the boiled kid and -trussed-up capons were not some novel delicacies artistically carved -from a skinned criminal! - -The feast being ended, we were ushered into a room above-stairs, where -a circle of Nautch girls were squatted round the room, who entertained -us with a repetition of those monotonous chants and attitudes which are -so generally popular amongst the Orientals. - -Some of the women, especially the Punjaubees, were pretty: all had -fine lustrous eyes, and some fair and almost clear olive complexions; -but cocoa-nut oil, beetel nut, vermillion, henna, and black paint, -did their utmost to detract from the gifts of Nature. However, we -had been so long debarred from the sight of female charms, that few -had any reason to be fastidious or backward in admiration of such -novelties, and none of the damsels reckoned shyness or obstinacy as -accomplishments. - -On the morning of the 10th of November, the Sappers and Miners, and -two companies of Native Infantry, were detached to Ali Musjid in the -Khyber pass, as an escort to a quantity of camel-loads of supplies -of provision and ammunition for the use of the garrison. Having -performed this duty, on their return from Ali Musjid they were suddenly -attacked by a swarm of Khyberees. A party of Sikhs who accompanied -the detachment, either from treachery or fear, at the first alarm -severed the leading-strings of the camels, and thus threw the baggage -into a state of hopeless confusion. The Khyberees taking advantage -of this disorder, ham-strung many of the camels, and thus secured the -loads as a booty. The escort having with some difficulty, and the -loss of a few men, succeeded in repulsing their daring assailants, -returned to Peshawur, minus about five hundred camels and a quantity of -baggage, which fell into the hands of their enemies. The commissariat, -previously much straitened for carriage, now declared that they had not -the means of carrying the supplies requisite for the march. - -A detachment, consisting of all the infantry of the column, (altogether -six companies, including one of the European Regiment,) were now -ordered to march to Ali Musjid, and occupy that fort, until relieved -by a party from the army in Afghanistan. Colonel Wheler's brigade of -Native Infantry was ordered to move from Jellalabad into the Khyber -pass; and thus the defile being entered by the two forces from opposite -sides, would be swept throughout, and a fair probability presented -itself of chastising and bringing to terms the daring banditti. - -Colonel Wheler's advanced guard was attacked by a body of Khyberees -at the crest of the steep descent into the valley of Lumdeekhana, but -the marauders, seeing the columns advance in force, soon gave way, -and retired to the interior of the hills. Subsequently, some of the -Khyberee chiefs came down to hold a conference with Colonel Wheeler, -their followers burning fire with the Sepoys in token of amity; and -much regret was expressed for the injuries which had been sustained -at the hands of those chiefs who _had not_ been bribed. On arrival at -Ali Musjid, Colonel Wheeler found the detachments from Peshawur in the -fort, to which they had penetrated with a few supplies, after another -skirmish with the Khyberees, in which, however, the marauders were -roughly handled. - -The chiefs had promised that on the payment annually of one lakh of -rupees, the passage of the Khyber should be kept open to the British; -and it was supposed that matters were finally arranged with the -Khyberees, but upon terms which did not sound agreeably in a soldier's -ear, though, politically speaking, they might be deemed expedient. - -Matters having been brought to the conditions named above, by those -who were empowered to treat, the infantry brigade, accompanied by the -detachments from our column, which had been relieved, now proceeded -towards Peshawur. The troops had advanced but a short distance from -Ali Musjid, when a swarm of Khyberees once more rushed from the -heights, and, pouncing upon the baggage, succeeded in carrying off -a number of camels, principally laden with the officers' baggage, -which they drove up one of the numerous ravines communicating with -the main passage of the defile. The rear-guard, which had probably -been overlooked by the plunderers, immediately gave chase; and having -been reinforced by parties from the detachments which occupied the -heights flanking the ravine, who had witnessed the theft, came up with -the Khyberees, and having committed considerable havoc amongst the -traitorous rascals, succeeded in recovering some of the camels and -their burdens. The troops then proceeded on their route to Peshawur, -which was reached without any further molestation. - -Such was the state in which we abandoned Afghanistan. Having marched -victoriously throughout the country, and thrust a monarch upon his -reluctant subjects, the ill-fated Shah Soojah, with ill-disguised -apprehension, beheld himself placed on the throne of a hostile country -supported only by too much weakened British regiments, a few sepoys, -and a small body of half-disciplined Hindoostan levies. The Bombay -division, on their return march, had found an enemy in nearly every -mud-fort, and met with a spirited resistance from Mehrab Khan at -Khelat; whilst the Khyber Pass, the direct gate of communication with -our far-distant provinces, closed behind the Bengal column as soon -as it had crossed the threshold. The savage and marauding Khyberees, -reckless of all faith and treaties, continued to commit numerous deeds -of rapine and violence, thus amply proving, had any proof been required -of such a self-evident fact, that these treacherous bandits were only -to be restrained from their hereditary profession of plunder whilst -their mountain-fastnesses were being actually swept by an overwhelming -military force; yet, in opposition to these stubborn arguments, -political agents were yet to be found who advocated, and endeavoured to -adopt, conciliatory measures. - -In Dost Mahomed's time, the Khyberees had little or no temptation -offered them to infringe their agreement; but the sight of the baggage -which accompanied our column was too much for their resolution. - -The garrison of Ali Musjid, having been left in unenviable quarters, -and our fellow-soldiers in Afghanistan to enjoy themselves as they -might in their isolated situation, we prepared to resume our march, and -traverse the remaining four hundred miles, which lay between us and -our advanced posts on the frontier of Ferozepore. - -The infantry detachments, which had lately been engaged in the Khyber -Pass, had not rejoined, but followed shortly afterwards, whilst the -first column proceeded onwards through the valley of Peshawur. - -On the morning of the 20th of November, we proceeded on our march, and -encamped a few miles distant from the city. At this place, in the broad -daylight, a party of plunderers from some adjacent hills came down and -carried off many camels, which were grazing at little more than a mile -from the lines. The rear-guard of the Lancers, immediately on the alarm -being given, turned out in pursuit, and from a small knoll in camp, we -had a favourable view of the chase. - -The robbers, amounting to about forty, having got a good start, were -pushing for the hills, about five miles distant from camp, and driving -the camels before them at a round pace, pricking the bewildered animals -forward with the points of their lances and cimeters. The dragoons -gained steadily on them; but a few men of the irregular cavalry hung -closely on their flanks and rear, and although they were too few to -obstruct effectually the retreat of the banditti, yet they compelled -them to abandon several stray and restive camels. As they neared the -hills, the eagerness of the pursuers redoubled, and the camels dropped -fast to the rear, bearing on their flanks severe marks from the weapons -of their merciless captors. At length, the robbers, with the residue -of their booty, were close to the foot of the hills, the dragoons were -still half a mile behind, and the irregular horsemen, who were less -than two hundred yards off, drew up, and gave a parting fire from -their matchlocks, but without effect. With a shout of exultation, -the mountaineers wheeled about to return the fire, when two gallant -fellows from the irregular horse, dashing round their flank, threatened -an impediment to their line of retreat. The chances seemed, for a -moment, to be against the bandits, for none of them appeared willing to -encounter their daring opponents, and whilst wavering at the foot of -the heights, the dragoons had come within a few hundred yards. Choosing -the least of two evils, the marauders, driving the remainder of their -booty before them, rushed, _en masse_, upon the unfortunate irregulars, -who were unhorsed, but unwounded, ascended the hills, and dispersed in -many directions amongst the gullies and ravines which intersected the -face of the mountains. - -Barely a dozen camels were altogether secured by the marauders out -of nearly a hundred which had been seized. During the pursuit, many -villagers from the plains turned out to offer assistance; for these -mountaineers are unfriendly neighbours to the agriculturists, and -scruple not, when urged by necessity, to take whatever may be useful to -them from the unwarlike and helpless dwellers in the plains. - -From hence, crossing an extensive plain, we encamped near the banks of -the Caubul river on some greensward, and under a grove of trees. - -This was a most luxurious day's residence, and the prospect was more -English than anything we had hitherto seen in the East, or perhaps -I should have rather said, Irish, for the mud huts of the country -bordering Peshawur bear a close resemblance to Irish cabins, although -the unclean animal, that prominent feature at the threshold of most -dwellings in the Emerald Isle, is here considered an unwelcome guest. - -A traveller desirous of conciliating the natives of this country -must needs be choice in the selection of animal food; for in this -district--from Peshawur to the Jhelum river--dwell the Mussulman -population of the country, whose abhorrence is a pig; across that -boundary the imperious Sikhs look with pious horror on beef-eaters, for -one of their deities is a bull. The pea-fowl and pigeon are also held -in much veneration by the Sikhs, notwithstanding the ungodly voice of -the bird of Juno, and the destructive habits of the sacred pigeons. -The allurements of immortality, however, compensate for the loss of -temporal possessions, and the depredations of the sacred fowl are -viewed with indifference, and by the more devout, with satisfaction. - -On leaving the Caubul river, we passed again over tracts of desolate -plains and barren hills, until we reached once more the banks of the -Indus, on the 26th of November, at the fortress of Attok. - -About a mile above Attok, the Caubul river forms a junction with the -Indus, and the united streams rush with great rapidity in a deep and -narrow channel under the walls of that ancient and gloomy fortress. A -temporary bridge of boats had been thrown across the Indus, opposite -to the gates of Attok, which enabled us to cross the river without -much delay, at the end of the morning's march. At this season, the -breadth of the river did not exceed one hundred and fifty yards, and -the cavalry crossed the bridge without dismounting. From the approach -on the Caubul side, Attok presented rather a formidable appearance, -with its extensive and massive parapets frowning over the dark floods -beneath; but at the junction of the two rivers, about one mile higher -up, a passage might easily be effected with a pontoon train, where the -guns of the fort would be nearly inoffensive. When once landed on the -left bank, the fortress would not present a very formidable obstacle, -for the hills immediately above the town afford an excellent position, -whereon batteries might be placed which would command both the town and -fort at a range of something less than six hundred yards. - -The Sikhs were very jealous of admitting any of the officers within the -fortress; but as the best view of the place was obtained from the hills -above mentioned, this reluctance on their part did not cause us any -disappointment, and the much-vaunted stronghold of Attok was generally -admitted to be a fortress of no importance, with regard to its present -strength and site. Had a strong detached work been placed on the upper -range of hills, it might have rendered the position more tenable, -although the whole rampart of the place being exposed to view from the -opposite bank, must soon be made to succumb to the stroke of a heavy -battery. Such a catastrophe, however, could never have been expected -from the Afghan quarter, as their battering trains are not of the most -effective description. - -A merchant from India had arrived here with wines and other luxuries, -which, in addition to some we had procured at Peshawur from another -enterprising merchant, _en route_ for Caubul, introduced us once more -to those dainties with which previous experience had taught many of us -cheerfully to dispense. - -Proceeding on our march from hence, I looked in vain for the fertile -land of which I had heard and read; the appearance of the country near -our line of march was but little superior to Afghanistan. - -The tract between Peshawur and the Jhelum river is almost entirely -occupied by the Mussulman population of the Sikh territories, from -whom Runjeet Singh levied his Mussulman regiments, which are generally -supposed to have been the most efficient of his army. - -The natives of this part of the country are not supposed to bear any -particular good will to their neighbouring masters, and were kept -in strict subjection by Runjeet. To quell their martial spirit, and -diminish the chances of a revolt, they were restricted from wearing -arms, whilst in the Punjaub almost every Sikh may be seen following the -plough with the singular encumbrance of sword and shield--at least, in -that part of the country bordering on the Mussulman districts. - -Should a rupture ensue between the British and the Sikhs, there is -little doubt that if the war be carried into the heart of the Punjaub, -this ill-will on the part of the Mussulmans may be turned to our -advantage; for it is generally supposed that the immunity offered to -their religion and habits under the British rule, would induce them to -prefer it to their present state of subjection. - -Six marches from Attok brought us to the celebrated Tope of Manikyala, -in which a vast quantity of coins were recently discovered. - -This place is supposed to be the Bucephalia of Alexander's time, by -Mr. Ventura. Its modern name of Manikyala may appear to warrant such a -supposition; but as the Bucephalia was placed on the right bank of the -Jhelum, to command the passage of the river, Sir Alexander Burnes has -objected to the site. This I deem an inconclusive objection, for the -reasons already assigned in page 214. - -The monument at Manikyala is a massive spheroidal building of stone -and brick. The perimeter of its base exceeds three hundred yards; -its altitude was computed at something more than fifty. On reaching -the summit, by the aid of some rude and time-worn steps, we found an -aperture, resembling a dry well, which descended apparently to the -foundation of the building. This well was searched, some years ago, by -General Ventura, and at the bottom was found a box, containing many -valuable coins, and also a phial, filled with some liquid. - -Whilst peering into this cavity, a tall Sikh, who had arrived on the -same spot, stood watching me with that inquisitive stare which, at -first blush, excites the sufferer to anger, but which experience had -now taught me meant nothing more than simple curiosity. - -"Has the sahib discovered any curiosities below?" demanded the -intruder, as I rose from my occupation. - -"No; but perhaps you can enlighten me on the subject of this huge pile, -and as to your native traditions of the architect and his intentions," -I replied, in mongrel Hindustani, which this native was intelligent -enough to comprehend. - -"I was here some years ago," he answered, "when General Ventura -searched this well and discovered many ancient pieces of gold, and -silver, and copper. The mound has stood here many centuries, before -the Sikhs possessed this country, and is generally supposed by the -country-people to have been erected by Shah Sikunder (Alexander the -Great) as a monument over some one of his generals, who, probably, fell -in battle near this spot. Our architects declare that the monument was -of a foreign origin." - -Such was the pith of the information given by my heathen companion, -as we descended together from the building by the rude staircase, -constructed, perhaps, by the hands of Macedonian engineers and masons, -and trodden by the foot of the invincible Alexander, whose mighty deeds -and conquests, although they have transmitted the deathless name of -the conqueror to posterity, have failed in assigning a definite spot -to his achievements here, or in marking the limit of his advances -into Hindostan--if, indeed, he ever did penetrate as far as those -realms--if, alas! that after a whole life devoted to the pursuit of -the phantom, Ambition, (which was, probably, nearer the grasp of the -Macedonian than that of any subsequent devotee,) the attainment of -his favourite project, the conquest of the East, should at this day -remain a matter of uncertainty. Such is fame, and so much worth, that -gnawing and unaccountable desire to live in the memories of posterity, -which animates alike the poet, the statesman, the soldier, and the -philosopher, to a life of labour, anxiety, hardships, or study, that -his name may survive when the body has partaken of the common lot of -mortality, and lies insensible alike to the worms which are gnawing the -flesh, and its fellow worms above who are probably toiling to destroy -that reputation which was the fond and nurturing object of its earthly -career. - -The keenest satire on ambition which I have read, lies in the -observation of Horace-- - - "Expende Annibalem, quot libras in duce summo invenies?" - -But let the cynic sneer his fill at the desire of distinction during -life, and the cravings for a name with posterity; such is the -indefinable condition of the animal, man, that I firmly believe no -mortal ever existed who could despise the prospect of their attainment. -Such are the uncertainties which attend human attainments and -foresight, that a heathen fanatic has, at one fell swoop, destroyed the -labours and monuments of ages of literature,[56] and left the very -existence of many sages of antiquity to be called in question: and the -stupendous pyramids, on which the suns and storms of unknown ages have -beaten, still rear their aged crests into the serene sky, whilst the -object and even the names of their projectors remain a matter of doubt -and dispute. - -Whilst indulging these sombre reflections, at the foot of the Tope of -Manikyala, my reverie was interrupted by the approach of a Sikh, who -displayed some coins for sale, which the first glance assured me were -spurious. Reader, be not alarmed; after this dissertation on the novel -topic of the vanity of human forethought, I will not indulge you with a -treatise on the still more uncommon theme of dishonesty. I will merely -add, that I returned the Sikh his coins, telling him that they were -worth a trifle under their actual weight in copper, and then adjourned -to a breakfast which the impatience of two brother officers had made -cold and scanty. The village of Manikyala has been so completely -denuded of antiquities, by the diligence of European travellers, that -not a coin of any value was found there by any of our party. - -As we proceeded, a barren country still surrounded us, intersected, -in the most singular manner, by deep ravines, which appeared to have -been caused by heavy floods from the mountains. So frequent, deep, and -precipitous are these rents in the soil, that even were the natives -ever so industriously disposed, the culture of such a surface would be -attended with great disadvantage, both on account of the infertility of -the soil, and the difficulty of tillage and communication. - -Having descended into the dry course of a river, we pursued its sandy -track nearly to the banks of the Jhelum river, which is better known -under its classical name of Hydaspes. - -About thirty large flat bottomed boats had been collected at the small -town of Jhelum, on the right bank, for the transport of troop baggage, -as also for the soldiers themselves, if it were deemed requisite; but -the river was supposed to be fordable about half a mile above the ferry -of Jhelum, and the ford, which was about four hundred yards in width -and very tortuous, was designated by several bamboos placed upright in -the stream to mark the course to be pursued in crossing. - -An officer was sent to report on the practicability of the ford, -(the officials from the quartermaster-general's department having -already crossed in boats,) who crossed and recrossed on horseback, -and reported the greatest depth to be about four feet, and that his -horse had kept his legs firmly during the passage. The Lancers then -received orders from the brigadier to cross on horseback, and entered -the river by sections of threes. The advanced party, keeping close to -the canes which marked the ford, reached the opposite bank in safety; -but the mass of the column, when within about a hundred yards of the -left shore, lost the indications of the ford, which had probably been -destroyed by the advance, and, on diverging from the track, the greater -part were immediately out of their depth. The line of demarcation -being thus trampled over and lost sight of, nearly the whole regiment, -yielding imperceptibly with the current, got below the proper ford, -and, seeing no further marks to direct them, pushed indiscriminately -for the nearest landing-place. First one poor fellow, on a weak horse, -was swept away by the current; and, unable to extricate himself, -encumbered as he was with heavy accoutrements, soon lost his seat, and -being struck by the horse in his efforts to stem the current, sunk, -and was seen no more. Soon afterwards several more, mostly mounted -on animals which were too feeble[57] to swim with the heavy weights -on their backs, were seen struggling in vain to make headway, until, -exhausted with their endeavours, they parted company; and the Dragoons, -unless strong swimmers, were soon overcome, whilst their horses, when -freed from their weights, swam wildly down the river. Amongst the -victims was Captain Hilton, commanding the fourth squadron, who, being -a heavy man, unable to swim, and mounted on a weak old Arab charger, -sunk almost without a struggle. The confusion which prevailed may -be easily imagined, and it appears wonderful that so many managed -to reach the shore. The boats employed in the transport of baggage, -being all heavily laden, could move but slowly towards the scene of -disaster, which was more than half a mile distant from most of them, -and it was only by working up near the bank and thence pushing into -the stream that they could have reached the spot; but they were unable -to do so until all was nearly over, and few, if any, escaped by their -assistance. Those men who had succeeded in reaching the shore now -vociferated confused advice to their comrades in the water, each loudly -recommending some designated place of safety, whilst those struggling -with the current were unable to catch a single word of advice or -command from their numerous advisers, on account of the rushing and -stunning din of the stream, and the clatter of surrounding voices. -When the greater part of the regiment had reached the shore, a body of -the strongest swimmers stripped themselves of their encumbrances, and -hurried to the assistance of their comrades, many of whom were nearly -exhausted by their efforts to keep above water, or benumbed with the -cold, which, at eight o'clock on a December morning, is severe, even in -this latitude. - -Numbers of camels, which had attempted a ford rather higher up the -river, with heavy loads on their backs, had been carried off their -legs, and these, floating down the river amongst the soldiers, were the -means of saving many a poor fellow's life, by affording him something -to cling to until he could be rescued from that precarious situation by -the vigorous exertions of his fellow-soldiers. - -Soon after the regiment had crossed, it was mustered on the banks, and -Captain Hilton and ten men found missing. The bodies of Captain Hilton -and six men were found in the course of the morning, and interred -close to the river, but the bodies of the remaining sufferers were not -recovered during our halt at the fatal Jhelum. - -Had we been compelled to cross this river in the face of an enemy, -the ford could not have been more boldly attempted than on this -occasion.[58] Because a single horseman had crossed in safety it was -deemed advisable that a whole regiment should do the same, neglecting -the probability of the alluvial deposits in the bed of the river -being trampled to the consistency of a quicksand by such constant and -heavy pressure. As a sufficient number of boats had been collected -to transport the whole regiment, with their horses, across the river -within the space of a few hours, it is difficult to assign a reason for -plunging into so deep and uncertain a ford, with a rapid current and an -unstable footing. - -Major Hough, the diffuse historian of Indian warfare, has informed us -"that the commander-in-chief and staff regarded the distressing scene -with feelings of the deepest commiseration;" which must have been very -consolatory to the drowning men, and doubtless the survivors are duly -grateful to his excellency for such a flattering display of humanity. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 54: This mode of execution has also been practised by the -princes of many independent states of Hindostan.] - -[Footnote 55: In 1842 I witnessed a military execution at Merut, of a -private of the Horse Artillery. The numerous spectators present can -bear witness to the prolonged sufferings of the criminal. The rope -being adjusted, one native pushed him off a low cart under the gibbet, -whilst two others tugged at the rope to hoist him up. The convulsive -writhings of the sufferer long haunted me; they lasted for nearly -twenty minutes.] - -[Footnote 56: The library of Alexandria was destroyed by the Arab, -Amrou, a few years after Mahomet. Abulphuragicus Dynast., p. 115. This -is questioned by Gibbon, (!) vol. iii. p. 478, quarto edition.] - -[Footnote 57: The greater part of our horses had not regained much -strength after the sorrowful work and starvation they had encountered -during the recent campaign.] - -[Footnote 58: In the month of April, upwards of two hundred years ago, -Jehangire's army forded this river with a force of Rajaputs opposing -them. Many were drowned, and most of the remainder fell into the hands -of their enemies. (Dow's India, vol. iii., p. 81.)] - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CROSS THE CHENAB AND RAVEE--ARRIVE AT LAHORE--LAHORE--CEREMONIAL -VISITS--REVIEW OF THE SIKH ARMY--RECROSS THE SUTLEJ--MARCH TO -CANTONMENTS. - - -Having thus floundered through the Jhelum, we had passed the boundary -of the Mussulmaun, and entered the Sikh division--i.e., the Punjaub. -The Punjaub is bounded on the north-west by the Jhelum river, and not -by the Attok, as usually marked in the charts. The five rivers, from -which it derives its name,[59] are the Sutlej, the Beeas, the Ravee, -the Chenab, and the Jhelum. - -The country did not exhibit any sign of improvement until we neared -the Chenab, being mostly overgrown with long dry grass, not unlike -that which covers some of the prairies of America. But it cannot be a -matter of surprise, that the inhabitants should pay more attention to -war than agriculture; had it been otherwise, they would have sown only -for the hardy and warlike inhabitants of the neighbouring mountains. -A nation must be great in war ere it can hope to flourish in commerce -and agriculture, or the nest will surely be robbed ere the progeny -be full-grown and able to defend themselves--or rather, capable of -learning that useful art. - -The cold of a winter's morning in India, though much less severe, of -course, than that of more northern latitudes, is still very smartly -felt on the line of march, for it is necessary to march in the morning, -to enable the cattle to go out and graze after their work is over. - -Mounted on a charger, who is forbidden to deviate from a walk during -a morning's march of twelve or fifteen miles, with the feet in a -pair of heavy iron stirrups, and a keen blast driving the cold dust -through the half-frozen patient, is the daily lot of the soldier on a -winter's campaign in the East. With anxiety he looks forward through -the morning's gloom for the first peep of dawn; but no sooner has the -merciless sun attained a few degrees of elevation, than he exhibits -a fiery aspect which soon renders the shadow of a tree or a fold of -canvas by far the most interesting object in the view. Whilst the -European, clad in his tight and cumbersome costume and accoutrements, -toils wearily onward under the fiery noon-day heat on a long march, -the Asiatic warrior, divesting himself of a portion of his flowing -dress, twirls the light material round his head, and under its grateful -shadow encounters lightly and cheerfully the task which lies before -him. The graceful Oriental turban serves the invaluable purposes of -guarding the head from sun and cold, of defying the edge of the sabre, -and arresting the progress of a bullet; the European head-dress answers -no useful purpose: cannot the ingenuity of England's hatters suggest -some plausible scheme for defending the susceptible sculls of their -countrymen serving in India? Verily, if they cannot accomplish that -object, they deserve, and may they continue to enjoy, the imputation of -insanity.[60] - -Five marches from the Jhelum brought us to the banks of the Chenab; of -the depth, rapidity, and means of transit over which, about as varied -and accurate reports had been received as were transmitted on our -arrival at the Jhelum. - -On reaching the Chenab river, we encamped within a few yards of the -bank; and as the fortunate discovery was soon made that an abundance -of boats were in readiness, the greater part of the baggage was taken -across in them during the day, and next morning the regiment embarked. - -The camels, when unloaded, as also the horses, with a native groom (or -"syce," as they are termed) on each, were enabled to cross at a ford, -about two miles down the river, which was more than four feet in depth. -These natives, being light weights and unencumbered with trappings--for -the saddles and all their weighty concomitants travelled in boats--took -the horses across the ford without any accident or difficulty. Nor was -there any risk in the experiment, for most Orientals swim soon after -they have learned to walk. - -The country now assumed a much more cheerful and civilized appearance: -crops rose luxuriantly on each side of our line of march; and the -well-inhabited towns and villages told of an abundant, though not a -very wealthy[61] people, for the mud houses were little, if at all, -better than those of Hindostan. - -Ofttimes, the massive and circular tomb of some Mussulman, now -falling fast to decay, (or in many instances, the ruthless hand of -time, having evidently been assisted by the unsparing jealousy of the -bigoted Sikhs,) glared upon us from out its gloomy and sepulchral -shade of banyans. Since the date which some of the buildings tried to -commemorate, the haughty Mussulman conqueror had yielded to the more -arrogant Sikh idolator, who must soon give place, in the inevitable -cycle of events, to a milder and more tolerant power. - -These white and spectral monuments failed not in their object of -attracting observation, whilst the fretted and ostentatious carving -apprised us of the earthly resting-place of bones probably belonging -to some proud grandee, who had played his little part on the stage of -life, and whose deeds done in the flesh, though failing to rescue his -name from oblivion, had succeeded in earning a monument to become an -asylum of refuge for rats, owls, and jackdaws. This is as it should be, -when-- - - "Some proud son of man returns to earth, - Unknown to glory, but upheld by birth." - -Since leaving Attok, we had been accompanied by an escort of Sikhs, -under Sirdar Lana Singh, who, it was expected, would have met the -commander-in-chief on the frontier with an invitation to visit -Maharajah Kurruk Singh (the reigning monarch of the country) at Lahore. -Lana Singh being vested with no such authority, our original route, -which lay through Lahore, was altered, and the force proceeded by a -road which left the capital about fifteen miles to the East. - -With a nation so punctilious in points of etiquette as the Sikhs had -hitherto been, the fact of allowing the British forces to approach -within so short a distance of their capital, without sending a -deputation to wait on the commander-in-chief with an invitation to -their court, betokened a slight which told plainly the ambiguous -relations existing between the Lahore government and the British. The -most probable cause of this omission was, that both the authority and -intellect of Kurruk Singh being feeble, and the court itself in a -turbulent and unsettled state, the ministers were unwilling that the -British should be eye-witnesses of their present state of anarchy. - -Dhian Singh, the prime minister, had always testified an aversion to -the British, even in the days of Runjeet, according to Mr. Prinsep's -account, and there is little doubt that this marked neglect was owing -to his suggestion. Had they valued, or wished to court our friendship, -as the old Lion of Lahore had ever done,[62] they would not have been -thus tardy with their invitation, or at least, they would have made -some apologies for the maharajah's inability, from ill-health or some -other invention, to be honoured with an interview. - -On the present occasion, we had arrived within fifteen miles of -Lahore without any communication from the durbar, and at a small town -named Budee, when late in the afternoon a party deputed by the Sikh -government entered our camp, bringing the commander-in-chief the tardy -courtesy of a request to visit the capital. Instructions having been -received from the governor-general of India, conveying a desire that -Sir John Keane should, if possible, visit the maharajah, the scanty -ceremony was overlooked, and the commander-in-chief, escorted by the -16th Lancers, a troop of horse artillery, and a few native infantry, -diverged from the route, and proceeded next morning towards Lahore, -whilst the second column, under General Thackwell, continued their -route by the more direct road to Ferozepore. - -Having made two marches over an uninteresting country, speckled with -patches of long dry grass and underwood, we arrived on the banks of -the Ravee, and encamped close to the walls of Jehangire's tomb. - -The city of Lahore lay about four miles distant, stretched along some -gently rising ground on the opposite shore of the Ravee, but we could -barely discern its locality owing to the haziness of the atmosphere. -It was Christmas day, and decidedly the least merry one I can remember -having passed. The gloom rivalled that of London at this period of the -year; the clouds occasionally indulged us with a smart shower of rain, -which, under canvas, is the most uncomfortable weather imaginable, -especially when accompanied, as this was, by a piercing easterly -wind, which swelled in the folds of our tents, and defied all efforts -to exclude the noisy intruder. In the afternoon, the weather having -cleared up a little, I visited the Emperor Jehangire's tomb, in company -with a brother officer. We entered the extensive building by a gateway -leading into a large square court, the four sides of which were pierced -by a succession of small casements, each divided into two cells, which -would have made very comfortable quarters for a Dragoon and his horse. - -Calculating on the probability of their being ere long devoted to some -such purpose, we found that the square would have well accommodated a -cavalry regiment at its full strength. Crossing this yard, we passed -under a lofty, arched gateway, and entered the gardens in which stood -the tomb of the Emperor: a massive square building, of about thirty -feet in relief, from the four angles of which rose the usual flanking -parties, lofty and handsomely carved minarets. In the interior, we -found nothing costly or worthy of note. On a platform of white marble -steps, in the centre, stood the sarcophagus, made of the same material, -whose sides had been chipped and defaced by the Sikhs, to exhibit their -magnanimous contempt for the deceased Mussulman potentate. On ascending -the exterior of the monument, we found the flat roof paved with stones -of various colours, which had a singular effect, the whole constituting -a pattern of great dimensions. As none of the stones were of any value, -and all pretty tightly fastened with cement, the natural indolence -of the Sikhs had saved this part of the structure from injury. On -ascending one of the minarets, whence an excellent view of Lahore may -be obtained on a clear day, we observed, at the further side of the -garden, a small conical tomb, built to the memory of the far-famed, -beautiful Nourmahal, wife of the Emperor Jehangire. Her pathetic and -marvellous history has formed a theme for many relaters of tales -throughout the east; but for the enlightenment of the few whose ears -they may not have reached, I will give a brief sketch of the adventures -assigned to her lot. - -Nourmahal was the daughter of a ruined Tartar chief, and was born -in the desert between Tartary and Hindostan when her parents were -emigrating to the latter country. Overcome by weakness and fatigue on -the journey, they found themselves unable to carry on the infant, and -Nourmahal was left to perish where she was born. The mother, after -deserting her child, was so overpowered with grief as to be unable to -proceed, whereupon Aiass, the father, returned in search of the infant, -which he found encircled by a large black snake. The reptile fled -at his approach, and Aiass, finding to his surprise that the infant -was uninjured, brought it to the mother. A caravan, shortly after, -opportunely arrived, and relieved them from their distresses; and, -without difficulty, the whole party reached Lahore, which was then the -seat of government of the Moguls conjointly with Agra. Aiass having -found a relative amongst the Omrahs of the Emperor Akbar, obtained, -through that influence, a place in the household of the monarch, and -rose in time to wealth and distinction. His daughter, who was called -Mher el Nissa, (the sun of women,) possessed unequalled attractions of -beauty, and was also remarkable for wit and accomplishments--a rare -combination for an Eastern beauty. - -Selim, the son of Akbar, being present at an entertainment given by -Aiass, was much attracted by Mher el Nissa's graceful figure and -voice; and the accomplished beauty, having _accidentally_ dropt her -veil, discovered to the happy prince such charms as had never before -shone upon the eyes of man. Poor Selim, who was as much in love (as -the Asiatics fictitiously term a passion of which they are ignorant) -as a prince could be, applied to the Emperor Akbar to obtain for him -the beautiful toy he had beheld. It was discovered that Mher el Nissa -was betrothed to the Omrah Sher Afken, a Turcoman noble, who might -be a dangerous enemy, and Akbar refused to employ harsh measures to -dissolve the contract. The disappointed prince was therefore compelled -to defer his passion and projects till a more convenient season, and -Mher el Nissa became the wife of Sher Afken. After the lapse of a few -years, when Selim had ascended the throne under the name of Jehangire, -Sher Afken left the court and retired to Burdwan. He was recalled -from thence by Jehangire to the court then held at Delhi, and the -monarch testified so much regard for the Turcoman chief, that he very -naturally concluded that all was sincere and disinterested on the part -of Jehangire. - -At a royal tiger-hunt which took place, the noble beast was marked -down in the jungle, and Jehangire, knowing Sher Afken's character -for strength, personal courage, and love of adventure, demanded that -volunteers, to meet the tiger single-handed with a sword, should -present themselves; four came forward, Sher Afken amongst them, and, -whilst the others were contending for the precarious honour, the -Turcoman Omrah offered to face the tiger without a weapon. Jehangire, -with inward joy and outward reluctance, assented. Sher Afken advanced -to the lair, and man and beast rushed into each other's clutches. The -tiger made some use of his claws, and mangled his opponent; but he -had to do with a hero of romance and not a mere mortal, consequently -the complaisant beast submitted, and allowed himself to be strangled. -The fame of Sher Afken rose with this exploit; he recovered from his -wounds, and became much honoured by the people and petted by the -monarch, who had many similar adventures in store for him. An elephant -was sent to crush Sher Afken in his palanquin. The hero arose, and, -with one blow of a _short_ sword, cut the elephant's trunk asunder at -the root, and killed him on the spot. Forty hired assassins tried to -murder him during the night; he slew twenty, and generously allowed -the remainder to escape. Sher Afken seems at last to have discovered -that Mher el Nissa was the object of Jehangire's persecutions, and -as it is considered a foul stain on a man's honour in the East to -part with any of his wives, the troublesome husband retired with the -sun of women, to his private residence at Burdwan. The chief of that -Bengal province immediately received instructions to remove the modern -Uriah to a better world, and, approaching under the pretext of a tour -of inspection, but with a large retinue, the king's official visited -Sher Afken, who met him unattended. The royal party soon proceeded to -business; but Sher Afken having pulled down an elephant and castle, -slain the emperor's agent, and killed a nobleman at every blow, was at -last surrounded by archers and matchlock men, who galled him from a -distance. He did not condescend to fall before his horse was killed, -and six bullets, and arrows innumerable, had perforated his body; -then, discovering he was mortal, the gallant and devout Omrah turned -towards Mecca, threw sand on his head, and began to die. The soldiers -dared not approach until he was in his last agonies. The party then -hastened in search of Mher el Nissa, fearing that in the first outburst -of regret for her irreparable loss she might wish to accompany her -deceased husband to Heaven; but happily she was less overcome than they -expected, and appeared resigned to her fate, declaring it was entirely -out of regard to her husband, that he might be immortalized by his wife -becoming afterwards Empress of India, that she submitted to become -Jehangire's sultana. - -On her arrival at Delhi, to her surprise and mortification, she found -that some caprice of Jehangire not only assigned her the most paltry -rooms in the seraglio, but left her to poverty and neglect. The emperor -did not even visit the woman for whom he had stained his name with -indelible crimes. - -Mher el Nissa, with laudable indifference, amused herself with -embroideries, (in which art she excelled,) and her talents in this -humble occupation soon brought her name into notice. After four years -spent in this manner, it appears that curiosity weighed more with -Jehangire than boyish love, for he stole to the apartments of the -beautiful embroideress to witness her toil. The result is evident, for -none could look on this dangerous beauty unmoved. The next day, the -Emperor Jehangire celebrated his nuptials with Mher el Nissa, under -the title of Nourmahal, (the Light of the Harem,) which was afterwards -changed to the more dignified and affectionate title of Sultana Noor -Jehan. The sultana continued to enjoy her husband's confidence, and -forms one of the few instances in Eastern history of a queen being -acknowledged more powerful than her lord. - -By her influence, her father became prime vizier, and was renowned -for his virtue and abilities in office; but, unhappily, her influence -over Jehangire was afterwards exerted to produce less creditable and -less fortunate results.[63] She survived her husband for upwards of -seventeen years, which serves to account for the paltry tomb erected to -her memory. - -On the morning of the 26th of December, we crossed the Ravee in boats; -but the horses, as well as the camels and other beasts of burden, were -able to ford the river without being unloaded, the Ravee being much -narrower than its two predecessors which we had crossed. - -Shortly before mid-day, we arrived within a mile of the city, and -encamped in a ploughed field, the advantages of which position were by -no means enhanced by the fall of rain on the previous day. The weather -now promised to be fine, luckily for us, and the ground was soon -dried, and as soon levelled by the constant intercourse with Lahore. -Immediately on our arrival, intimation was received that we must -consider ourselves all as guests of the Sikh government, who would not -admit of our purchasing any of the daily supplies requisite in camp; -and it was requested, that a return might be furnished of the strength -of the escort, that provision might be made for ourselves and cattle. -This daily distribution of provender was continued during the remainder -of our sojourn in the Punjaub, up to the day we recrossed the Sutlej. -Heaps of grain, straw, grass, eggs, flour, &c., were piled every -morning in front of the commissariat-officer's tents, and beside them, -droves of sheep and poultry stood, awaiting their fate with bleating -and cackling sorrow. - -This singular practice of feeding the troops of their allies was no -novelty on the part of the Sikhs; the same custom prevailed during -former visits of British embassies to the court of Lahore, in the -lifetime of Runjeet Singh. - -A memorandum was issued shortly after our arrival, recommending the -officers to abstain from visiting Lahore, until Sikh guides had been -obtained, as a sort of safety escort; it was, at the same time, -notified that sundry long-bearded savages would shortly be waiting at -the commissary-general's quarters, for the benefit of any officers -desirous of keeping such company. - -This recommendation was neglected by many, in their impatience to visit -the celebrated metropolis; and though, generally, the Sikhs behaved -with unusual civility towards us, there were not wanting some examples -of the contrary. - -The approach to Lahore from our camp was certainly the most favourable -point of view which could be procured. An extensive plain, covered -with turf, and enlivened by occasional clumps of trees, is stretched -along the exterior of the city-walls in this quarter; and the view -of temples, barracks, minarets, arsenals, and battlemented-walls, -jumbled in thick and confused order behind the ramparts, announce to -the visitor that he is about to enter a city which has maintained -no inconsiderable part on the stage of Eastern history. As I rode -towards the city-gate, in company with another officer, a party of -some twenty Sikh horsemen were issuing from the portal. On perceiving -us, they levelled their long spears, and advanced towards us at full -gallop. I could not refrain from forthwith drawing my sword, to meet -this unprovoked act of aggression; but my companion, whom experience -had made acquainted with Sikh peculiarities, requested me to ride -unconcernedly forward, and pay no attention to them. When this -adventurous body of cavaliers arrived within two or three spears' -length of us, they checked their horses back upon their haunches, -tossed up the points of their lances, and dispersed over the plain, -indulging in loud shouts of exultation at such an unwonted display of -horsemanship and courage. I could not help thinking, that had I been -alone, and provided with the usual furniture in my holsters, the noisy -occupants of two saddles might have paid dearly for this uncourteous -display of activity to a stranger. However, it is better for both that -such was not the case. - -Having crossed the bridge over the moat which defends the ramparts, we -entered Lahore through a series of narrow, dirty bazaars and lanes, -thronged, as usual, with inhabitants, yet so narrow, that three -horsemen could not ride abreast, except where some monument or temple -had been erected, in front of which the thoroughfares had been widened -and improved. It was with some difficulty that we made our way amongst -the crowds of people, who gazed at us more intently than if we had -been wild beasts in cages. The only recompence for this troublesome -curiosity was a good view of the fair-complexioned, dark eyed damsels, -who occupied many windows and balconies on the first story. As these -exalted beauties had the consideration to appear unveiled, we had ample -opportunities of admiring their charms. - -Having caused so much sensation, we almost began to imagine that -hitherto a wrong estimate had been formed of our importance, and that -we really were not what we thought; but, unhappily, our rising notions -of greatness were sadly checked by the discovery that we were merely -regarded as curiosities, but did not possess even sufficient influence -to gain admittance to the arsenal. - -The Sikhs were very jealous of allowing any of the officers of the -escort to visit their military establishments. In one of the temples -converted into a barrack, we were anxious to ascend a tower, which must -have commanded a good view of Lahore, but the sentry was inexorable. -We applied to the officer in command of the barrack, but he pretended -that the doors were locked, and the keys mislaid. This apprehension -of gratifying our curiosity was no matter of surprise, although the -precaution was useless, as we were not likely to benefit by the sight -of their military institution; and as Lahore, in its present state, is -incapable of defence as a fortress, the view enjoyed by two officers on -the summit of one of its towers would not have tended much to endanger -the safety of the city and its inhabitants. - -This complaint of the Sikhs' jealousy was made by nearly all the -officers who visited the city, though many had gone with influential -natives as an escort. - -Sir John Keane having been for some time suffering from illness, -which prevented him from quitting his tent, a deputation of officers -from head-quarters waited upon Kurruk Singh, in his palace, to tender -excuses for his excellency's inability to see the maharajah. - -There was little display of magnificence or of munificence at this -Durbar compared to those which had taken place in the days of Runjeet; -and it was evident now that the paw of the old Lion of Lahore had -relaxed its grasp of authority, there remained little respect for the -present puppet-show of royalty. - -Each officer attending the Durbar was presented with a dress of honour -of an average value of about two and sixpence sterling, and the damaged -Cashmere shawls presented as nuzzurs, would have been mean offerings to -send home to our respectable grandmothers. I have particularized those -reverend ladies, because their taste in the selection of that elegant -and becoming head-dress, the Cashmere turban, might enable them to roll -out of sight many of the defects of Kurruk Singh's presents, which -would have been fatally glaring when spread on the shoulders. - -Notwithstanding the enormous importation of shawls from Cashmere -into the Punjaub, the difficulty of procuring a really rich and -handsome shawl is greater than is commonly supposed. The most valuable -are generally purchased by the wealthy natives, who have the best -opportunities of procuring them; secondly, a good judge is required for -the selection; and, thirdly, rupees to spare to the amount of from five -hundred to twelve hundred, for the purchase of each. - -The day after the Durbar above named, Kurruk Singh, attended by -his court, visited the commander-in-chief at his tent. As some busy -gossips among the Sikhs had circulated a report that Sir John Keane's -illness was merely a pretext for withholding his company, and thus -evincing disrespect for the maharajah, Kurruk Singh and several of -his party were invited to enter the sleeping apartment, which they -did, and doubtless were convinced that the report of his excellency's -aristocratic disorder was not without foundation. Presents having been -made, and the usual forms and conversation having been conducted by -means of the interpreter, (Captain Powell,) the variegated mass of -silks, birds'-feathers, and jewellery, arose and departed. As this -shuffling crowd of Kurruk and his courtiers moved, bowing their heads, -through a lane of some two dozen brawny, square-built Englishmen, drawn -up as a guard of honour at the door-way, I could not forbear a smile at -the ludicrous contrast in manner and bearing, as well as the unusual -spectacle of the royal family of the Punjaubees, bowing and cringing to -the brave and sturdy descendants of some hard-working British artizans. - -Let these arrogant Asiatics crow as they will during our absence, -it is very clear that they cannot refrain from evincing their mighty -respect for British prowess when brought into contact with it. - -I always have, and still do entertain, the highest prepossession for -good blood and breeding, both in man and beast; nor was I staggered -in my opinion by this day's exhibition. It only tended to exalt the -estimate of my countrymen, for I should prefer the plainest drop of -English blood to the turbid streams flowing through the veins of the -proudest descendant of the Prophet, precisely as I should select a -sound English hack in preference to the weedy and stumbling offspring -of the best Hindustanee parents. - -Whilst accompanying the maharajah's party across the plain, between -our camp and Lahore, I observed some Sikhs engaged in their favourite -diversion of hawking, which being a novelty to me, I joined the -party, and rode with them some distance in pursuit. A noble falcon -had been slipped, and was in full chase of a kite, much larger and -probably stronger than himself. The falcon had no easy game to play; -he practised several dextrous manoeuvres, and stooped with great -rapidity; but the quarry was equally wary, and cleverly avoided the -enemy's attack, though his inferiority in speed prevented him from -contending successfully when soaring for the higher place. At length, -night put an end to the contest, and the bird having been called in, we -rode homewards; but the kite, after his exertions, must have been ill -qualified to procure an evening's meal. - -The Sikh sportsmen behaved with civility, and took some pains in -conveying instructions to me in falconry; but I derived little benefit -from their attentions, not being able to understand one-tenth of what -they said. Their knowledge of Hindustani appeared to be more limited -than my own, and one prevalent error was using the nose as much as -the mouth in the course of their conversation. I am not sure that I -am justified in calling this an error; for the Americans, who contend -that they speak English better than we can, adopt the same mode of -pronunciation. Their literature and social refinement must add weight -to the assertion. Washington Irving, by far the first of American -authors, complains of the ignorance and prejudice of English writers -on America: let me give him an example, taken from a book written by -an American of a learned profession. His opinion is not confined to -one country, and caused me a good hearty laugh. The author having -become intimately acquainted with the misery and ignorance of European -nations, proceeds to pronounce sentence at the end of his book--the -only good part: - -"My soul has been sickened at the sight of oppression, ignorance, -abjectness, and vice, which I have seen everywhere the result of -arbitrary rule.[64] I contrast with these the general intelligence, -the independent spirit, the comparative virtue of my countrymen, and -I am proud of the name of an American. But it does not become us to -boast.[65] True greatness _never_ plays the part of the braggadocio. -If the people under the despotic governments of Europe are less -intelligent and happy than we, it is their misfortune, and not their -fault, and they are more deserving our pity than our scorn!!"[66] - -I think we should be at a loss to find a parallel for this amongst the -most ignorant and prejudiced of our writers on America. - -On the morning of the 28th of December, we quitted Lahore, having -discharged the required duty of visiting Runjeet's unworthy successor, -and witnessing the estimation in which he was held. The party of Sher -Singh (the next in succession to the throne) was supposed, at that -time, to be strong; and the death of Kurruk Singh, which occurred -shortly afterwards, is generally attributed to a plot to bring the -favourite to supreme authority. But the death of Runjeet rang the -death-knell of the nation he had brought to such rapid importance. - -The reign of Kurruk's successor commenced with the massacre or removal -of most of the European officers in the Sikh service, by the soldiery; -the natural consequence of which must be the deterioration of that -discipline which Runjeet wisely devoted the greater part of his life -in endeavouring to establish. Could he have deputed his own abilities -to his successor, the Punjaub might have risen into one of the most -important nations of the East; but the army is becoming daily more -disorganized and under less control. Their arrears of pay remain -unsettled, which is a dangerous experiment; and the officers, although -possessing little authority with the troops under their command, are -among the disaffected. They are becoming troublesome neighbours on the -north-western frontier, especially as their country is so situated as -to interfere with our direct communication with the far-distant and -isolated position in Afghanistan. Under these circumstances, they must -necessarily be made either permanent friends or obedient subjects; -they will never become the former, and it will take a good many years -to reduce them to the latter alternative; yet, if we continue to hold -Afghanistan, it must be done. - -At a distance of about six miles from Lahore, we passed the camp of the -main body of the Sikh army, consisting of about fifty thousand men and -one hundred and sixty pieces of cannon. Having pitched our camp about -four miles distant from this overwhelming host, we were invited by Sher -Singh to attend a review of the army, which he directed to be held that -afternoon. - -On reaching their camp, it was already so late, that we had only time -to ride along their line, (which extended to an enormous distance,) -before sunset. Some of our officers, who had been with the previous -mission to Lahore, remarked regiments apparently of recent equipment. -On approaching the end of the line, torrents of abuse were lavished on -the British nation by the chivalrous Alkalees, who brandished their -weapons, shook their quoits, and behaved with incredible valour, if not -rashness, in exhibiting to four or five strangers and visitors what -a dangerous and formidable class the Alkalees were, and how much they -detested the Feringhees, even without knowing them. - -These besotted fanatics, we were told, had done the old Lion some -service, when, excited by opium and exceeding pot-valour, they -dashed headlong into the ranks of their adversaries, who, being less -intoxicated than the Alkalees, or less capable of directing the effects -of their intoxication, gave way in confusion before these accomplished -drunkards. More worthy symbols of superstition could hardly be found -amongst the Fakeers and idiots[67] of the Hindoos. - -The new regiments of cavalry, which appeared to have been equipped -or raised since our last rencontre at Ferozepore, were a brigade -of lancers, (a laughable caricature of the British regiment, which -they were intended to resemble,) two corps of cuirassiers, and some -mail-clad irregulars; the latter uncommonly fine, rough-and-ready -looking fellows--light troops which, well-handled, would cause much -inconvenience at outpost or guerilla-service, unless their appearance -belied them. I was told by an officer of an ingenious device which he -saw practised by the Sikh infantry. When wheeling into a parade-line, a -string had been laid on the ground, which was invisible to a looker-on -at a short distance, and when the word of command was given, each -regiment wheeled up to this mark, and thus formed a pretty correct -line without any trouble in dressing or posting markers. The evening -closed in so soon at this season, that we had little time afforded us -to observe their progress in manoeuvring, as the extensive line toiled -through the manoeuvre of changing front, whilst the artillery enveloped -the whole scene in dust and smoke. The Sikh artillery is, however, -beyond a doubt, the most effective branch of their service, working -with great rapidity, and firing with almost as much precision and -regularity as the British, who have been their model. - -During the progress of this review, three or four officers, having -left their horses in charge of some Sikh soldiers, mounted the -elephants which had been sent by the Sikh sirdars as calculated to -give a better view of the field than could be obtained on horseback. -The review being over, these officers, returning to the spot where -their horses had been left, found, to their dismay, that chargers, -horse-trappings, and Sikhs had vanished. Search amongst such a host of -men and beasts, in the dusk of evening, presented very small chance of -success; so, endeavouring to reconcile their minds to the severity of -fate, they returned to camp. A complaint of the loss was immediately -forwarded by the British political agent to the Sikh authorities, -who promised that the horses should be recovered or their owners -indemnified. During our halt at Ferozepore, a few days afterwards, the -horses were restored to their owners, mainly owing, it is supposed, -to the enormous value attached by one of the officers to an animal -of decidedly unprepossessing appearance, whose unaccountable value -and good qualities were possibly known only to his master. The Sikh -thieves had been palpably ignorant of the value of their prize; for -this extraordinary charger, (though always belonging to the lean -kind,) had now been suffered to dwindle away until he became a close -resemblance of an engraving which I remember having seen, a few years -ago, in the London engravers' windows, entitled, "The Nightmare." The -facetious quadruped is represented with its head tied to a knocker, and -grinning in the face of the alarmed house-owner, who appears at the -door dressed in his night costume, with a rush-light in his hand and a -blunderbuss under his arm. - -Several more petty thefts were committed on our camp whilst in the -vicinity of the Sikh army; and in some instances the dexterity of the -thieves was not inferior to that of the many renowned practitioners -throughout Hindostan. - -Four days march from the Sikh camp brought us once more to the banks of -the Sutlej, which we crossed in boats, re-entering the provinces at the -point from which the army had started on this long and wearisome tour. -Ferozepore, which we had left a mean native town, was now embellished -with extensive, white-washed bazaars; and a neat little fort in the -centre of the town was occupying the attention of our engineers. The -ground, which had been covered by the canvas-abodes of a portion of -the army at the close of the year 1838, was now, in January, 1840, the -site of a large cantonment, which had risen, as if by magic, within the -space of fourteen months, and was then tenanted by three regiments of -native infantry and some artillery.[68] - -From hence, we shortly afterwards dispersed in different directions, -to occupy our allotted quarters. We marched through Khytul and Kurnal, -to occupy our former quarters at Merut, which we had no sooner reached, -than the excitement of the campaign being over, the sufferings and -privations which all had undergone began to tell severely upon -their health, and many a gallant fellow was committed to his last -resting-place in the sombre burial-ground of Merut. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[Footnote 59: Punjaub means, literally, five rivers.] - -[Footnote 60: "Mad as a hatter," is a favourite term of comparison.] - -[Footnote 61: The chiefs take care to provide for this. Colonel Ford, a -British officer in Runjeet's service, had three villages given him for -pay, out of which he was allowed to make the most. This was the usual -practice; but the people are now growing stronger.] - -[Footnote 62: The disposition of Eastern states, like the character -of froward children, may be tested by these trifling humours in their -behaviour.] - -[Footnote 63: For further information, I refer the reader to Dow's -"History of India."] - -[Footnote 64: N.B.--Arbitrary rule, in his vocabulary, is explained to -mean, simply, any monarchy or empire.] - -[Footnote 65: The author has made this discovery too late, and the next -sentence seals his fate.] - -[Footnote 66: "Two Years and a Half in the American Navy," vol. ii. p. -244.] - -[Footnote 67: An idiot is revered by the Hindoo, as a Heaven-afflicted -sufferer.] - -[Footnote 68: A fort on modern principles was soon after built in -cantonments, and quarters provided for a British regiment.] - - -END OF VOL. I. - -T.C. 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Vol. 1(of 2) - </title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> - <style type="text/css"> - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - -.small { - font-size: small} - -.medium { - font-size: medium} - -.large { - font-size: large} - -.x-large { - font-size: x-large} - - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} -.p6 {margin-top: 6em;} - -.ph1, .ph2, .ph3, .ph4 { text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; } -.ph1 { font-size: xx-large; margin: .67em auto; } -.ph2 { font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; } -.ph3 { font-size: large; margin: .83em auto; } -.ph4 { font-size: medium; margin: 1.12em auto; } -.ph5 { font-size: small; margin: 1.12em auto;text-align: center; } -.ph6 { font-size: x-small; margin: 1.12em auto;text-align: center; } - - -.hang { - text-indent: -2em; - padding-left: 2em} - -p.drop:first-letter { - font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, serif; - font-size: xx-large; - line-height: 70%} - -.uppercase { - font-size: small; - text-transform: uppercase} - - - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb {width: 45%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%} -hr.full {width: 95%;} - -hr.r5 {width: 5%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;} -hr.r65 {width: 65%; margin-top: 3em; margin-bottom: 3em;} - - - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} - - .tdl {text-align: left;} - .tdr { vertical-align: bottom; - text-align: right;} - .tdc {text-align: center;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; -} /* page numbers */ - - - -.blockquot { - margin-left: 5%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - - -.bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} - -.bl {border-left: solid 2px;} - -.bt {border-top: solid 2px;} - -.br {border-right: solid 2px;} - -.bbox {border: solid 2px;} - -.center {text-align: center;} - -.right {text-align: right;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.u {text-decoration: underline;} - - - - - -.caption {text-align: center;} - -/* Images */ -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; -} - - - -.figright { - float: right; - clear: right; - margin-left: 1em; - margin-bottom: - 1em; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-right: 0; - padding: 0; - text-align: center; -} - -/* Footnotes */ -.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - - - - - -/* Transcriber's notes */ -.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; - color: black; - font-size:smaller; - padding:0.5em; - margin-bottom:5em; - font-family:sans-serif, serif; } - -@media handheld { - .hidehand {display: none; visibility: hidden;} -} - - - - </style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Military Service and Adventures in the Far -East: Vol. 1 (of 2), by Daniel Henry MacKinnon - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Military Service and Adventures in the Far East: Vol. 1 (of 2) - Including Sketches of the Campaigns Against the Afghans - in 1839, and the Sikhs in 1845-6. - -Author: Daniel Henry MacKinnon - -Release Date: October 29, 2017 [EBook #55844] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MILITARY SERVICE IN FAR EAST, VOL 1 *** - - - - -Produced by Brian Coe, Graeme Mackreth and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="hidehand"> -<p class="center"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /> -</p> -</div> - - - -<p class="ph1">MILITARY SERVICE</p> -<p class="ph6">AND</p> -<p class="ph2">ADVENTURES IN THE FAR EAST:</p> -<p class="ph6">INCLUDING</p> -<p class="ph3">SKETCHES OF THE CAMPAIGNS</p> -<p class="ph4">AGAINST THE AFGHANS IN 1839,</p> -<p class="ph5">AND THE SIKHS IN 1845-6.</p> - -<p class="ph3" style="margin-top: 5em;">BY A CAVALRY OFFICER.</p> - -<p class="ph4">IN TWO VOLUMES.</p> - -<p class="ph3">VOL. I.</p> - -<p class="ph5" style="margin-top: 5em;">LONDON:<br /> -CHARLES OLLIER,<br /> -SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND.<br /> -1847.</p> - - - -<p class="center"> -<img src="images/map.jpg" alt="map" /> -</p> - - -<p class="caption"> -MAP<br /> -of the<br /> -Late Field of Operations<br /> -on the<br /> -SUTLEJ. -</p> - - - - - -<p class="center" style="margin-top: 5em;"> -TO<br /> -<br /> -SIR HENRY LUSHINGTON, BART.<br /> -<br /> -I INSCRIBE THESE VOLUMES,<br /> -<br /> -BY HIS PERMISSION,<br /> -<br /> -AS A TRIBUTE OF AFFECTIONATE RESPECT.<br /> -</p> - - -<p>I shall not venture, in accordance with modern usage, to compose -an elaborate panegyric and exhaust the epithets of flattery in my -Dedication.</p> - -<p>Such an essay would be out of my power, and far beneath Sir Henry's -acceptance.</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 55%;"><span class="smcap">The Author.</span></span><br /> -</p> - - - - -<p class="ph2">CONTENTS OF VOL. I.</p> - - - -<table summary="toc" width="60%"> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Arrival in India, and march to the north-western provinces -</td> -<td class="tdr">p.<a href="#Page_1">1</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Visit to the Himalayah mountains -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_33">33</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Matters relating to the Afghans—March through Delhi to -Ferozepore—Runjeet's interview—March towards Buhawulpore -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_49">49</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Arrival at Buhawulpore—Sir Henry Fane's interview with -the Khan—Progress to Scinde across the Indus -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_78">78</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Advance from Shikarpore—Passage through the Bolan Pass -into Afghanistan—Advance from Quetta -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_98">98</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Kandahar—Murder of Lieut. Inverarity—The army concentrated—Advance -by the valley of the Turnuk upon -Ghuzni -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_130">130</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Storm and capture of Ghuzni—Advance to meet Dost Mahomed—His -army desert him, and he flies towards the -Hindoo Koosh -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_159">159</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Arrival at Caubul—Death of Colonel Arnold—Return of the -expedition in pursuit of Dost Mahomed—The Russian -bugbear—Fall of Khelat -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_184">184</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>The army at Caubul broken up—March of Sir John Keane's -escort by Jellalabad, and through the Khyber Pass, to -Peshawur -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_211">211</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Peshawur—Skirmishes with the Khyberees across the Indus—Manikyala—The -passage of the Jhelum -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_244">244</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a> -</td> -<td> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td>Cross the Chenab and Ravee—Arrive at Lahore—Lahore—Ceremonial -visits—Review of the Sikh army—Recross -the Sutlej—March to cantonments -</td> -<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_272">272</a> -</td> -</tr> - -</table> - - - - - - - - - - - -<p class="ph2" style="margin-top:5em;">MILITARY SERVICE</p> - -<p class="center">IN THE FAR EAST.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p> - -<p class="center">ARRIVAL IN INDIA, AND MARCH TO THE NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES.</p> - - -<p>Any one who has coasted the Andamans will bear witness to the beauty -of those Islands, of which, at the time I visited them, marvellous -tales were related. The predilection of the inhabitants of those -realms for their white brethren, when shipwrecked on these shores, was -said to have been evinced in a manner singularly contrasted to other -philanthropists, for they actually devoured them. It has moreover been -stated, that the biped islanders were not the only philanthropists -dwelling in these alluring scenes, but that the woods swarmed with a -variety of wild beasts, who were also epicures in human flesh. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> is, -indeed, wonderful that man, being so great a luxury, should continue to -exist in such regions. Unfortunately, we were unable to put any reports -to the test, not having set foot ashore.</p> - -<p>The sun, which had been shining brilliantly all the morning over these -green isles, became obscured in the afternoon, when a breeze springing -up soon caused a musical ripple of the waters, and wafted us in four -days to the Sandheads; where, receiving our pilot on board, we coasted -the low sandy ridge of Saugar, and anchored off Kedgeree, there to -await the steamer which was to tow us up the Hoogly to the capital.</p> - -<p>No sooner was our anchor dropped, than the river suddenly swarmed -with boats full of the wildest-looking savages, in a perfect state of -nature, saving a dingy clout bound about their waists. The hair hung -like horses' tails over the shoulders of some; others had gathered up -and twisted the sable mass into a knot on the top of their heads, which -led us into considerable doubt as to the gender of the individuals, -this being the generally approved method of arranging the hair amongst -the ladies of our northern climes. But we did injustice, in this -instance, to the more gentle and better sex, who in this region are -as superior in shape and feature to the males, as an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> English woman -is to every other on the face of the earth! Nevertheless, these dusky -anatomies possessed singularly Stentorian lungs, as we experienced when -they came whooping and jabbering alongside.</p> - -<p>Our worthy mate, being thoroughly versed in savage intercourse, loudly -exclaimed, "Ho! you d—d Dinghee Wallahs! nickal jao there, will you? -Quartermaster, hand up a bit of pork, heave it into that boat astern, -and shove off those shoals at the gangway."</p> - -<p>The sovereign remedy, a bit of pork, was carefully distributed among -the boats, and relieved us of their presence; for when the savoury -morsel alighted, they cast off, eyeing us with as much sorrowful -disgust as the bit of unclean animal, which was taken up by one of the -boatmen between two sticks, thrown overboard, and the polluted spot -well scoured with the mud and water of the brown Hoogly.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon, I went ashore, at Kedgeree, with a party of officers, -to shoot. We wandered in various directions over the marshy rice -fields, and through the low jungle, in quest of game: most of us loaded -one barrel with small shot, and the other with ball, being uncertain as -to the probability of meeting with a tiger or a snipe in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> those unknown -regions; but fortune having conceded neither, we returned at nightfall -to the appointed rendezvous for re-embarking, and found the ship's -boats had returned on board: our two linguists had gone with them. As -it was getting pitch dark, our prospects of a comfortable night's rest -were becoming correspondingly gloomy. In these straits, we wandered -along the banks to a village, where, endeavouring to make the natives -aware of our wants by signs, they immediately brought us some fruits, -making countersigns for money; that and food being pretty nearly the -sum total of their worldly concernments. At this juncture, one of our -party returned from a successful forage, having found a tent occupied -by a European.</p> - -<p>We hastened readily to the canvas abode, and our deliverer having -treated us to a few tumblers of cold water, and explained our wishes to -the natives, in a few minutes we each mounted our savage, and rode him -over the mud and water to a canoe moored near the bank.</p> - -<p>An hour's hard rowing, enlivened, at times, by the wild and discordant -singing, or rather yelling, of our swarthy boatmen, brought us once -more alongside the ship, anything but pleased with our first excursion -on the shores of Hindostan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> - -<p>I am persuaded that the phosphorescent appearance which we often -observe on the ocean, must hold some invisible and fiery influence -over the minds of those whose business for a time is on the great -waters. To this cause I venture to attribute the strong matrimonial -epidemic which broke out on board our trusty ship, many marriages being -meditated, and some celebrated by certain of my fellow-passengers. -The gaiety which ought to be consequent on weddings was not, at -first, very perceptible; but this, I take it, was mainly attributable -to the nautical stomach-pump, which took severe effect during the -first fortnight, principally, (I lament to say,) on the fair sex. The -operations of this fearful tormentor at length ceased. Had the immortal -Lawrence Sterne but enjoyed the advantages of a voyage to India, what -a mighty field would have been thrown open for the indulgence of his -favourite reflections to the edification of his readers and advancement -of natural philosophy. But he and his class have long passed from among -us, and I must leave to such as deem themselves competent to the task, -the elucidation of a theory, (holding doubtless the most absolute -influence over the intricate human system,) a subject far too abstruse -for this feeble pen.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> - -<p>Having spent two days at anchor off Kedgeree, on the third morning we -joyfully descried a dark little steamer, which, though more resembling -a demon than a saint, proved our deliverer from the shoals of the muddy -Hoogly.</p> - -<p>The slimy banks of the river, fringed at a short distance from the -water with stunted jungle, gradually gave place to a more civilized -appearance as we advanced up the stream; and on rounding Garden Reach, -the view was eminently beautiful. The neat villas of the Calcutta -merchants, now partially hidden amongst their gardens and shrubberies, -and now bursting full upon the view—the river, with the ceaseless stir -of business skimming across its waters, and the distant prospect of the -city of palaces, flanked by a forest of bare and taper masts, presented -altogether a picture of exciting interest, especially to one about to -set foot for the first time in a new country, and, to him, almost a new -world.</p> - -<p>We came to anchor, on the third morning after quitting Kedgeree, -under the walls of Fort William, and found H.M.'s third Dragoons -encamped on the glacis. About four in the afternoon, the heat having -considerably abated, we disembarked, and marched into the Fort, where -quarters had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> been provided for our men, though none for the officers, -as the brigade-major informed us, at the same time stating, that as -a difference of opinion existed on that subject between himself and -the fort-major, we must wait until he (of the Queen's) had craftily -overcome him (of the Company's), and induced the latter individual to -house us.</p> - -<p>There is an old proverb about a man between two stools being likely to -come to the ground, which was fully illustrated in our case, for, both -of our supports for a night's rest in Fort William having given way, we -came to the earth, though fortunately in the tents of the 3rd Dragoons, -immediately under the walls of the fort, where our fall was kindly -broken by cloaks spread on the ground to receive us.</p> - -<p>I was composing myself to sleep as comfortably as circumstances would -permit, when suddenly a volley of screams, as though proceeding from -the lungs of ten thousand demons, caused me to start on my feet, -supposing the camp to have been invaded by the infernal regions. My -host, lying in the opposite recess of the tent, being a man of some -days' experience, begged me not to disturb myself, as it was only the -jackals. "Only the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> jackals!" but they are pretty nearly enough to -murder sleep, I thought, as I laid myself down to await the cessation -of their intolerable howls.</p> - -<p>Silence at length ensued, and I was just falling asleep, when a -low gurgling noise arose close to my ears, and continued with the -most monotonous regularity: "Good Heaven!" I cried, after listening -intently for a few minutes, "that must come from the diabolical -bandicoots, of which I have often heard from old Indians." I drew my -sword, and awaited their advance in a violent perspiration, for I have -an insuperable abhorrence to the whole rat tribe; but they had no -intention of coming to close quarters. No, their cursed pipes sounded -the advance, unheeded by the main body. My enemies, nevertheless, -seemed to be mustering; for the gurgle was taken up by a reinforcement -from the opposite side of the tent, interrupted occasionally by a low, -muttering sound:</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 25%;">"Jam jam efficaci do manus scientiæ.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>"I submit; it is impossible to sleep through this interminable -persecution, and a man's days in this climate must be necessarily -short without rest!" Thus I exclaimed, as, jumping up, I threw my -cloak aside, and paced the tent in a fever, saluted incessantly by the -unearthly gurgle.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> - -<p>My friend lay on the opposite side, sleeping as calmly as if there were -no such things in the world to torture us as jackals or bandicoots.</p> - -<p>The morning was just breaking, and I stepped out of the tent, in hope -of being taken for a ghost by the jackals, and thus retaliating by -fright on a portion of my enemies—when, lo! the veil of mystery was -withdrawn, and there sat two Hindoos smoking the pipe of the country, -commonly known by the name of hubble-bubble, which noisy instrument I -had mistaken all night for the bandicoots.</p> - -<p>This was too absurd. I burst into a fit of laughter, which awakened -my friend, who hastily joined me, when I related my grievance. Having -silenced the smokers, I soon enjoyed the rest I had almost despaired of -attaining.</p> - -<p>The following day, having stated our houseless condition to Sir -Willoughby Cotton, commanding the division, we were, by his order, -allotted quarters in the Fort, where the bugs and mosquitoes were as -unwelcome visitants as the jackals and hubble-bubbles of the preceding -night.</p> - -<p>Having procured some native servants, deposited our baggage in the -barracks, and bought large cane bedsteads with mosquito curtains, -we began to consider ourselves in clover, though our ignorance of -Hindustani left us completely at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> mercy of the natives, my sirdar -(valet) being not of the most intelligent order. At night, when he had -succeeded in clearing my bed of mosquitoes, and carefully arranged the -curtains, I signed to him to take away the light. He immediately left -the room, but took not the candle. "Sirdar!" He immediately re-entered. -I telegraphed him with much energy, pointing to the candle and thence -to the door. He shook his head and looked bewildered. This was not to -be endured; I darted out of bed to extinguish the light; and a colony -of mosquitoes, who had been awaiting this opportunity, immediately -established themselves inside, and conversed with me during the night.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding our numerous tormentors, the season of the year at -which we landed was the coolest and most salubrious of any—that -is, the mornings were coldest, and the mid-day heat was also at its -minimum; but even a December sun, at noon, was not to be encountered -with impunity.</p> - -<p>I sallied forth in one of those coffin-like conveyances termed -palanquins, to visit the city, which is about a mile distant from the -fort, and extends along the banks of the river. Enormous store-houses -and merchants' offices skirt the river;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> but the interior of the city, -and especially that portion adjacent to the plain around Fort William -contains several fine public buildings and extensive private mansions. -The streets and squares are wide and handsome; but the bazaars and -the portion of the town tenanted by natives are wretchedly narrow and -confined, and usually thronged nearly to suffocation; for the natives -love to huddle together in contradistinction to the whites, who seem -even on this broiling and dreary side of the world to preserve that -cold and forbidding demeanour which distinguishes the English in -particular from other nations of the globe.</p> - -<p>I believe the case was materially different a few years ago; but we -found cause to remark, during our fortnight's sojourn in Calcutta, -that we had experienced less hospitality and more incivility than in -any other city of the world, not excepting even New York. The then -revolution in the social system of the East has been attributed to the -recent establishment of hotels in the city, but this appears more of a -subterfuge than a palliation. The absence of the governor-general and -commander-in-chief, who were at that time in the upper provinces, had -drained Calcutta of the best of its population, as we were informed -and after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>wards experienced; and we therefore saw the place under -unfavourable circumstances.</p> - -<p>After a comfortless delay of a fortnight, in this city of contrasted -luxury and indigence, we gladly received the route to march for our -destination in the north-western provinces.</p> - -<p>Having provided ourselves with tents, and bullock hackeries for the -conveyance of them and our baggage, we left Calcutta about sunrise on -the 4th January, and marched along the banks of the river, through -avenues of cocoa-nut and palm trees, to our first encampment, a -distance of about ten miles.</p> - -<p>Our party mustered nearly five hundred strong, and included detachments -for all of her Majesty's regiments in the upper provinces. Both -officers and privates were, almost to a man, commencing their first -march in India, or, to use an Indian expression, "griffins;" and -in consequence many forebodings had been uttered, in Calcutta, of -depredations, blunders, and miseries we were to encounter: "mais il est -plus facile d'être sage pour les autres, que de l'être pour soi-même," -saith Rochefoucauld, and with truth, in the present instance, for we -encountered few of the ills presaged by the Indian prophets, who had -probably drawn their conclusions from sad experience.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> - -<p>The second morning we marched in the dark, and reached the river Hoogly -about daylight. The transit occupied the greater portion of the day, -having to unload the beasts of burden and convey the men and baggage -in boats. The most interesting and novel sight to us was that of the -huge elephants swimming across this broad and rapid river, with the -mahout, or driver, standing or sitting on their necks. Immediately the -elephant gets beyond his depth, his whole body and head disappear, and -nothing is seen to mark his locale, save the head and shoulders of the -mahout. The obedient monster performs the submarine passage with an -occasional jerk of the head and trunk out of water, to take breath and -see where he is going, although in the latter instance he is generally -subservient to his driver.</p> - -<p>Some accidents were nearly occurring from the elephants having been -swept down by the current among the boats in which the troops were -crossing, but the mahouts piloted their charges dexterously through the -fleet, without a single collision.</p> - -<p>After crossing the Hoogly, we marched, for the first few days, through -a well cultivated country, but afterwards struck into a newly made -road, lying amid thick low jungle, until we reached the Rajmahal -hills, which in some places are thickly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> and prettily wooded, whilst -the intervening plains and valleys diversify the scene with their -irregular patches of Indian corn, sugar cane, and barley fields. The -Rajmahal hills abound with bears, tigers, wild hog, and elephants; but -all chance of sport in wild beast hunting was denied us; we had no -shikar wallahs, or sporting elephants among our party; for in India -it is quite as necessary—nay, more so—that the elephant should be -a sporting character as the rider, for the uninitiated usually dread -the sight of a wild beast, and at the critical moment of encounter -the unhappy sportsman often finds himself involuntarily taking to an -ignominious flight. It is impossible to beat the heavy coverts of this -part of India, with a moderate chance of success, except on elephants. -Our principal amusement during the whole march consisted in partridge -and snipe shooting, and even these were exceedingly scarce in the -neighbourhood of our camp; but this was on account of the distance we -generally kept from the Ganges, the banks of which are well supplied -with game. In fact, throughout India, game is rarely found anywhere -save in the vicinity of rivers, theels, or inundated ground.</p> - -<p>Our friends, the jackals, continued their nightly lamentations, -varied occasionally by the deep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> bass of a bear, or hyæna's eccentric -cry; but I heard of only one actual encounter between man and beast -in the Rajmahals, which was between an infantry soldier and a bear, -beside the stump of an old tree, which both approached, unconscious -of each other's presence, to use as a seat. Having eyed one another -with feelings of mutual aversion, they executed a chassée-croisée, -and parted. When a bear is desirous of being on intimate terms with -a man, he rears himself on his hind legs, and advances to embrace, -but the cruel sportsman marks, with his keen eye, a white mark on the -affectionate creature's breast, and repays the advance by a bullet -sent through this vital spot—that is, if his hand be steady enough to -execute the act of ingratitude.</p> - -<p>On emerging from the hills, we marched over an almost uninterrupted -plain, which preserves the same smooth features almost to the very foot -of the Himalayahs.</p> - -<p>After an uninteresting and monotonous march of four hundred miles, -which occupied about six weeks, always halting on Sundays, the first -military station we reached was the sacred city of Benares. Here we -crossed the Ganges, above whose muddy waters we descried the minarets -of the holy places towering in the cloudless sky, and,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> from their -lofty relief, rendering more apparent the insignificance of the low mud -and brick dwelling-places clustered around their bases.</p> - -<p>The cantonments lie about four miles from the city, laid out with -strict military precision: most of the officers' bungalows thatched -with dry grass, standing in the midst of their square compounds, -enclosed by a high mud wall.</p> - -<p>Even the native soldiers are different looking beings from their -unenlisted brethren, and stalk along with the conscious importance of -improved condition.</p> - -<p>The roads, which are made of concha,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> are broad and excellent, and -everything wears an air of starch discipline.</p> - -<p>Near the cantonment lived a Madras rajah, who, having been deprived of -his power and estates in that presidency, had been transplanted here -and pensioned by government. With the customary adulation of the East, -he readily licks the hands of his oppressors, apes English manners, and -courts English society.</p> - -<p>I accompanied a brother officer, who had been previously acquainted -with him, to the rajah's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> mansion, which was a comfortable residence, -without any attempt at magnificence. The room into which we were -ushered was adorned with pictures representing the victories of -Wellington, Nelson, and Napoleon. After keeping us some time -waiting, his highness at length made his appearance. He was a tall, -sallow-complexioned man, attired in a white frock coat, black silk -handkerchief, brown silk pajamas,<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and red morocco slippers. -Supposing the principal means of entertaining Englishmen to be the -satisfying of their appetites, he lost not a minute in introducing -us to the supper-table, where he begged us to be seated, setting the -example himself—at least, if his might be termed an example, for he -perched himself most uncomfortably on the extreme edge of a large -arm-chair, and with the assistance of its arms and his own, managed to -preserve a very precarious equilibrium.</p> - -<p>As it is very difficult for a person to feel at ease when he perceives -that his companion is not, I hoped every instant to see him glide from -the chair, and squat on the floor, in the position natural to his -countrymen, but he did not, in this instance, gratify us or himself.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> - -<p>Supper being over, we adjourned to an inner room, where, to my -surprise, we were presented to his wife and daughters. The former -was about thirty years of age, glittering with jewels, and retaining -visible proofs of having been a beauty in her day. Her eldest daughter, -about thirteen years of age, (advanced womanhood in India,) was the -most perfect dark beauty I have ever seen: her figure was slight, yet -round and elegant—as are those of most Indian women of high caste; -an invidious veil covered the greater portion of her glossy hair, but -her clear olive complexion, and lustrous black eyes—too dazzling to -be looked on with impunity—were a <i>chef-d'œuvre</i> of Nature. Never, -till that night, did I bitterly repent my neglect of the Hindustani -tongue.</p> - -<p>The rajah told us that he fully intended to pass the evening of his -days in England, where his beautiful daughter, with her ample dowry, -will probably become the victim of some expert adventurer.</p> - -<p>Having halted two days at Benares, we proceeded through as -uninteresting a country as before, passing, occasionally, a mud town -or village, with the usual appendages of a small grove of trees and a -few square patches of cultivation<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> round the wells, whilst two or three -hundred natives, huddled together, and squatted like so many vultures -on the walls and by the road-side, watched our onward progress, and -chattered their rapid jargon.</p> - -<p>Ten marches from Benares we again crossed the Ganges where it unites -its polluting waters with those of the rocky and clear Jumna, and -entered the cantonments of Allahabad. The fort commands a view of the -two rivers as they flow onwards to their junction, immediately under -its walls; but excepting these waters, the eye wanders over a continued -parched and arid plain, save where a small grove of trees presents -occasionally a relieving object.</p> - -<p>The festival of the Mohurrem was about to take place as we quitted -Allahabad. The scenes of riot and debauchery annually consequent on -this as well as other festivals, have entailed a lasting disgrace -on the government of India, which not only tolerates, but actually -encourages them. Nor has it scrupled to convert the superstition of -the deluded natives into a substantial accession to the revenues of -the country. Those who may be affected with any scruples on this -subject, possibly reconcile the matter to their conscience by the -disbursement of a few rupees<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> annually for the maintenance of a handful -of missionaries to convert the people of India to Christianity; but -it will require something more than the present feeble efforts to -accomplish that object, and possibly a little more sincerity in the -authors of such an endeavour. In these modern days of toleration, it -will hardly answer to follow the policy of the Emperor Julian towards -the early Christians, and apply it to the Mussulman or Hindoo—as, when -the emperor says, "I show myself the true friend of the Galileans. -Their admirable law has promised the kingdom of heaven to the poor, -and they will advance with more diligence and virtue in the paths of -salvation when they are relieved, by my assistance, from the load of -temporal possessions."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> - -<p>The dust on the road between Allahabad and Cawnpore passeth all -understanding. The head of our column got along tolerably well, not -sinking much above their knees in the impalpable soil; but the centre -and rear staggered blindly onward, and not unfrequently downward, -through the clouds raised by their predecessors, till they reached more -substantial ground; others jostled against mud walls and trees, trod -on their neigh<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>bour's toes, or, wandering from their comrades, groped -their way out of the dense atmosphere, and only discovered the locality -of the column by the glimpse of a few miller-like objects preceding the -cloud.</p> - -<p>Ten marches from Allahabad, over roads of the above description, and -through a country which, being hid by a dusty screen, I seldom saw, and -cannot therefore describe, brought us into the cantonments of Cawnpore, -which appear to rise like a city in the desert. Not a tree was to be -seen, and scarce a vestige of animal or vegetable life was presented -to our view, as the morning broke upon us crossing the arid and almost -trackless plain near Cawnpore. At length, when the sun arose, a dim -line of conical objects was descried through the lurid atmosphere, and, -at the same time, the roar of some half-dozen pieces of cannon, at -practice on the plain, announced the vicinity of cantonments.</p> - -<p>Here the men of the detachments were placed in barracks, and the -officers' tents pitched in a compound, where the sun blazed fiercely -enough to roast a live lobster in his shell, though, from our species -of that animal, nothing was elicited beyond moisture and murmuring.</p> - -<p>Three days having been passed in this eligible<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> situation, I was -despatched up the country with my own detachment and sundry others for -regiments in the north-western provinces, an escort of a havildar<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> -and twelve Sepoys having been provided to <i>take charge</i> of us, which -trust they faithfully performed.</p> - -<p>At this time, a dreadful famine was prevalent in the districts through -which we passed, which was fearfully evidenced by the appalling sights -we daily witnessed on the march. Living skeletons crowded round us -in thousands, stretching forth their meagre hands and supplicating -relief with countenances which beggared description. Scarcely a mile of -ground was passed without seeing some wretched creature breathing his -last by the road-side, or some, whose sufferings ended, were affording -a scanty meal to the famished Pariah dogs. All caste and heathenish -scruples were overcome by the craving for food, and the poor creatures -tore each other in the avidity with which they scrambled for bones or -offal thrown to them by the soldiers. The myriads which thronged our -camp became a crying nuisance; and the dictates of humanity were so far -repressed by the calls of duty and necessity, that I was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> compelled to -encircle our small encampment with a chain of sentries to exclude them, -and prevent their diseases from spreading amongst our own camp.</p> - -<p>No permanent relief could be afforded by our people, and the bestowal -of a morsel here and there was merely a protraction of suffering.</p> - -<p>About fifty miles from Cawnpore, and on the banks of the former bed -of the Ganges, are the ruins of Kanoge, formerly one of the principal -cities of India, and by some supposed to have been the limit of -Alexander the Great, in his Eastern campaign.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> - -<p>Above the congregated heaps of mud and brick are seen the white domes -of monuments and temples of later construction, like the ghosts of -decayed Eastern grandeur peering out on the surrounding desolation. The -vicinity of an ancient ruin incites most of us to a contemplative mood. -We reflect on the scenes that have been enacted there when the building -was tenanted, and its inmates were playing their part on the stage -of life. It is true, that the events of those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> days we have wandered -back upon, may not have been a whit more interesting than those at -present before us; yet Time generally hallows the past with a certain -veneration, especially when connected with associations of classical -antiquity such as may be conjured up in Kanoge; and the faintest -evidence may lead us to walk on the track of the mighty Macedonian, and -think—</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 25%;">"Hic illius arma—</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 25%;">Hic currus fuit."</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>The atmosphere of Kanoge certainly conveys a sense of desolation -surpassing that of any other ruinous city I have visited, and mutely -explains its fallen condition unaided by native legends or speculative -historians. I have read many discussions on the present and past state -of this city; but none, I am convinced, could have visited it at a more -impressive period than I did, when a dreadful famine was testifying -itself in the faces and forms of the scanty, emaciated inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Advancing up the country, we found during nearly every march a grove -of trees sufficiently extensive to encamp under, which sheltered -us considerably from the sun and dust, both of which were becoming -seriously disagreeable, especially the latter, which rose daily about -noon, with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> wind setting in at that time, and lasted till sunset, -when it dropped, leaving everything in the tent buried an inch deep in -dust; and then came our ancient enemies the mosquitoes.</p> - -<p>Three weeks marching carried us over two hundred miles of country, -and to a town called Koorja, within sixty miles of Merut, where we -experienced a severe typhoon, which, though of common occurrence -in Upper India, was the first I had seen, and the most destructive -that had been felt that season. It came on suddenly about four in -the afternoon, having given us no notice of its approach, for the -appearance all round had been hazy during the afternoon. In five -seconds, we were enveloped in complete darkness, caused by clouds of -sand and dust raised by the tempest, and whirled through the air. The -howling of the storm was accompanied by almost incessant peals of -thunder. As the typhoon increased in violence, the fiery appearance -of the dust, from the continued gleaming of lightning, presented a -singular effect. In the course of a quarter of an hour, two tents -were levelled and torn to pieces, and my own quivered to such a -degree, that, expecting to be carried away with it, I got clear of the -impending wreck, and, groping my way out to leeward, came immediately -in contact with a huge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> bullock. Any port in a storm, thought I, as I -clung to the monster's horns for an anchorage. He, like an unfeeling -brute, struggled hard to get rid of the burden; and the contest was -at the fiercest, when, coming in contact with a hackery, to which he -was attached, we both rolled on the ground together. "Taree machee!" -screamed an unhappy gharuwan,<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> against whom we fell; but his -invective was cut short by a kick in the stomach from my antagonist. -Rejoiced to find a more passive assistant in the hackery-wheels, I -let go the refractory bullock, and held on by the cart until the -storm abated. This took place in a few minutes; when, creeping from -my shelter, amid a deluge of rain, into a portion of the tent that -fortunately remained standing, I lay in comparative comfort, listening -to the retiring rattle of the thunder.</p> - -<p>We then set about repairing the damages of the camp, and soon put it in -condition to afford shelter for the night.</p> - -<p>At daybreak, the whole country appeared one sheet of water, through -which we marched; and, having lost our guide, soon afterwards lost our -way. Having wandered some miles in search of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> a road, we came at length -to a village, where, seizing upon an unwilling guide, we were by him -conducted across country, or rather across water, to our destination.</p> - -<p>The land assumed a more green and cheerful aspect for the last five -marches into Merut, which we reached, without any further accidents, on -the 10th of April.</p> - -<p>As the hot winds, which are not agreeable "compagnons de voyage," were -daily expected to set in, we congratulated ourselves on the conclusion -of this long and weary march of nearly nine hundred miles, which was -accomplished in ninety-six days.</p> - -<p>Although the labours of the march were ended, I felt myself far from -comfortable in my new quarters, for the greater part of my baggage -was on the Ganges—some eight hundred miles off; I was not settled -in any habitation; and lastly, I was among strangers: the two latter -objections were soon overcome, but the former I found a serious -inconvenience.</p> - -<p>No life of which I can form an estimate, even that on board ship, can -present fewer attractions than a residence, during the hot season, in -India. In the upper provinces, about the end of April, the hot winds -come rushing from the sandy deserts<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> to the westward, bearing on their -fiery wings columns of burning dust, which penetrate to every room in -the house, and replenish the eyes, ears, and mouth of the sufferer who -ventures to face them faster than he can dispose of the nuisance. A -framework of bamboos, covered with long roots of grass termed cuscus, -is placed against the windows and doors to the westward, which are -continually watered outside by a native, at the expense of keeping up -his attention by an occasional "halloo." About sunset, the wind usually -drops, and the air remains impregnated with particles of fiery red -dust; and as that is the time for coming out of the heated dwelling to -swallow the hotter air outside, we may as well change the subject, for -it is not likely to prove interesting or agreeable.</p> - -<p>Towards the end of June, these messengers of the desert cease to -arrive; a calm interval (but rather a <i>restless</i> calm) succeeds, which -is shortly broken, if the season be favourable, by the approach of -heavy columns of clouds from the east, which burst over the thirsty -plains of India like angels' visits. The sensation of renovated -existence conveyed by this first fall of rain both to animal and -vegetable may be imagined even by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> those who have witnessed the rare -effect of a short summer's drought in rainy England.</p> - -<p>From the descriptions I had heard of our present quarters, I imagined -Merut to be a most picturesque little elysium; but those accounts were -generally spitefully uttered by discontented Indians, during a summer's -drizzle or a London fog. The stern reality varied little from the -character of other cantonments which I had visited during my march up -the country, either in point of climate or scenery. The barracks are -oblong, single-storied buildings, dressed with mathematical precision, -(and conveying from a distance the idea of so many petrified columns of -troops,) flanked with equally precise roads.</p> - -<p>In rear of the men's barracks are arranged, in similar order, the -officers' bungalows, each enclosed in a small square compound, the -condition of which depends of course on the pursuits or taste of the -owner.</p> - -<p>The massive bungalow to the right of the line, is flanked by high mud -walls, to which are appended dog-kennels on one side and extensive -stables on the other. More care and attention have evidently been -bestowed on this than on the dwelling-house. The available land, -embel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>lished by a patch of oats and a parterre of half-demolished -lucerne, proclaims the owner an amateur of the turf and field.</p> - -<p>The small, but neater-looking building at the further extremity of the -line, situated in the midst of a garden, fragrant with many a variety -of flower and carefully-pruned shrub, tell, beyond a doubt, that some -benign influence has dispensed these blessings on the soil, whilst the -house contains the gem itself:</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 4em;">"In the cup of life,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That honey drop—the virtuous wife."</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Gardens overgrown with weeds, dilapidated walls and gates, testify the -indolence or indifference of other owners; and yonder drowsy-looking -building, with most of its shutters closed, and the verandah piled with -six dozen chests, beside which are reclining, in good-humoured repose, -a numerous and motley group of <i>marines</i>, who have travelled from the -generous vineyards of France and Germany to perform their last duty on -the burning soil of Hindostan,—all these afford too strong evidence to -require explanation.</p> - -<p>The heat of the weather during June, this year, certainly exceeded -anything I had ever anticipated, and its continuance day and night -became deeply oppressive to the spirits of the uninitiated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> About -the middle of the month, we had a smart shock of an earthquake, which -was felt from Calcutta to the Himalayah mountains, although it caused -little injury. The sensation was of a most singular and disagreeable -nature, the roof of the house assuming a menacing attitude, and -appearing to rock to and fro; but giddiness prevented me from being -over particular in taking observations. A small cistern of water -becoming violently agitated and overflowing its sides, was illustrative -of what happened after the shock was over.</p> - -<p>We were, at length, relieved from the violent and sickening heat, by a -strong easterly breeze, bringing a mass of threatening clouds, which -burst like a water-spout over the plains. In twenty-four hours, the -cantonments and surrounding country were flooded, and the before arid -plains now presented the appearance of an extensive lake. When the -rains cease, and the clouds, rolling away, give place to the sun to -look upon the waters, his influence soon dries a large portion of the -soil, and the vapours which rise from the earth produce a damp heat, -less endurable than the preceding dryness, and much more insalubrious.</p> - -<p>After this change in the weather, I paid a visit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> to the Himalayah -mountains, which lie about a hundred and ten miles north of Merut, and -presented a most tantalizing sight during the hot season, rearing their -snow-capped peaks at apparently so short a distance from the scorched -and glistening plains of our present quarters.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Concha is a species of siliceous clay, lying in strata at -a depth of from three to four feet beneath the surface of the whole -alluvial plain of the Ganges.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Pajamas are loose trousers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Julian, Ep. xliii. Gibbon, ii. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> A havildar is the serjeant of a native regiment.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Kanoge was built about 1000 years <span class="smcap">B.C.</span>, and <i>was -said</i> to exceed 100 miles in circumference; it was besieged by Mahmoud -of Ghuzni, and surrendered about <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1020.—(R. Dow's Works.)</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Gharuwan—a bullock-driver.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p> - -<p class="center">VISIT TO THE HIMALAYAH MOUNTAINS.</p> - - -<p>Our party, consisting of three officers of my regiment and myself, -started on the evening of the 1st of August, and having halted during -the heat of the next day at a house on the road, erected for the -convenience of travellers by government, we reached the foot of the -hills at daybreak on the 3rd instant.</p> - -<p>We remained at a small inn recently established there, awaiting an -interval in the torrents of rain which were descending, before we -commenced our ascent. After the greater part of the day had passed -without the occurrence of this lucid interval, I started with one -of our party to mount the precipitous hills which towered above us, -enveloped in mist. We procured two sturdy little mountain-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>ponies, -that despised our weight, and, dashing through the torrents of rain, -breasted the rough acclivity. The mountains from Rajpore rise abruptly -in a constant succession of sharp and lofty peaks, whose sides from -beneath appear nearly perpendicular. The roads, which are about two -yards in breadth, are cut round the sides of the mountains, and winding -by a gradual ascent round some, conduct you slowly upwards; on others, -the circuit being impeded, or too extensive for the former system, -a zig-zag road is made, to bring you more rapidly, though much more -laboriously, to their brow, whence a ridge frequently stretches across -to the adjacent mountains.</p> - -<p>The spirited little hill-ponies carried us fearlessly across these -narrow passes, on each side of which a yawning abyss frequently -descends, till lost to sight amid the gloomy shade of the rocks and -shrubs projecting from its sides; whilst the mountain torrents, roaring -above and beneath, and frequently dashing, in their impetuous course, -across the path you are pursuing, present a wild and magnificent sight.</p> - -<p>Night had far advanced, and our ponies began to exhibit unequivocal -symptoms of weariness from their severe toil, when we arrived at the -hotel, then standing at Mussouri, for the recep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>tion of travellers. -Here we soon divested ourselves of our well-soaked garments, and -enjoyed the unusual Eastern luxury of a blazing fire.</p> - -<p>Next morning, the weather having cleared up, I sallied forth to enjoy -the varied and beautiful scenery, and scrambled to the summit of -Landour, which stands about 7000 feet above the level of the sea. On -the front, towered the Tyne range, about 10,000 feet in height; and -far beyond these, Jumnootri and Gungootri, whence flow the sources -of the Jumna and Ganges, are visible, their summits glittering with -everlasting snow, from an elevation of 24,000 feet. On the right of -this barrier of eternal snow, was dimly visible the peak of Dwalagiri, -whose hoary heights, though untrodden by the foot of mortal man, have -been measured by his ingenuity, and pronounced to be the loftiest in -the world.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> - -<p>Dazzled with the resplendent and gorgeous scene, whose reflection from -the morning sun became too much for the eye to endure, I turned to -look down on the beautiful and fertile valley of the Doune, which lay -stretched beneath, and through which the Ganges, extricating itself -from the mountains, rushed, in its turbid and meander<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>ing course, -into the plains; whilst on the other side of the same fairy valley, -the clear and stately Jumma flowed majestically onwards, to unite its -crystal waters with its sister river at Allahabad.</p> - -<p>The scenery here is excessively striking to the traveller, on account -of the miserably barren and uninteresting flats he must traverse ere -reaching these mountains, which nature appears to have raised to a -stupendous elevation, in atonement for her negligence to other parts -of Hindostan. The mild climate of these regions has rendered them a -favourite resort, during the summer months, for the families of those -eking out their eastern servitude; and many neat villas, partaking more -of the character of European than of Asiatic architecture, ornament -the sides and summits of Landour and Mussouri. The woods, which cover -with great luxuriance the lower ranges of hills, from the base to -the summit, constitute the principal beauty of the mountains. The -trees most abundant near Landour are the oak and rhododendron; the -latter grows to a large size, and produces a rich crimson flower, far -exceeding in size and brilliancy of colour the shrub producing that -blossom in England; and in the spring so great is its abundance, that -it appears to cast a ruddy hue on the sides of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> mountains. In the -interior of the mountains, I have seen, growing wild, almost every kind -of fruit tree<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> met with in Europe. Here is also a very beautiful and -gigantic fir growing in the higher altitudes, termed the deodar, which -is peculiar, I believe, to the Himalayahs, and much valued for its -durable properties when used in building.</p> - -<p>The rains continued to fall with untiring assiduity until the latter -part of September.</p> - -<p>Early in October, I set out with a party of friends on a tour in -the interior. We were each provided with a small tent holding a -bed and table, which, in addition to our guns and a few bottles of -wine and spirits, were all we could take with us; for so rugged and -precipitous are the paths, that everything belonging to travellers -in these mountains must be carried by the Paharries, (natives of the -mountains,) who scramble up the steepest precipices with considerable -loads strapped on their backs. There is generally much difficulty in -procuring a quantum sufficit of these useful animals. The natives of -the plains have a great aversion to the climate of the mountains, which -usually disagrees with them, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> cannot be made of much use in a -journey in the interior. The Paharries, indeed, have a similar feeling -towards the plains, and can seldom be prevailed on to remain any length -of time in the lower regions.</p> - -<p>From Landour we descended amongst the thick brushwood, and long tangled -grass which clad the mountain sides until we reached the bottom of a -kudd, or valley, not far above the level of the plains, through which -foamed an impetuous mountain torrent. We had some difficulty in fording -this stream, on account of its rapidity and the quantity of large -moveable stones in its bed. Being surrounded by precipitous mountains, -which completely intercepted every current of air, the heat in this -valley was exceedingly oppressive. The vegetation around us was most -luxuriant, and it was with considerable toil we forced our way through -the wilderness of shrubs, interwoven with long matted grass.</p> - -<p>We now commenced the abrupt ascent of the Tyne mountains, along a -narrow Paharrie track, where the footing was extremely precarious, -and a false step would have consigned the perpetrator to the tender -mercies of the sharp pointed rocks several hundred feet beneath. About -nightfall it became very difficult to distinguish the track, but our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> -ponies, who scrambled along without any accidents behind us, seeming to -make light of the matter, we mounted and trusted to their sagacity.</p> - -<p>I had cause, ere long, to repent this misplaced confidence, for, on -turning a sharp angle of rock, I was interrupted during an energetic -argument with my successor by a most appalling stumble, and, in an -instant, disappeared with my faithless quadruped, from the eyes of my -astonished brother disputant.</p> - -<p>A few feet under the ledge of rock grew a kind hearted shrub, (better -deserving of immortality than the tree of murderous intentions upon -Horace,) which I embraced and clung to with affectionate eagerness. My -poor pony fared otherwise, and by the crashing amongst the stones and -shrubs underneath, I had cause to conjecture he was suffering bitter -punishment for his error: far from it, the fall had soon been converted -into a roll, on the fortunately gradual slope of this especial spot, -and we found him busily engaged with the thick grass which had -preserved, and was now nourishing, the little viper.</p> - -<p>The moon now made her appearance, and we reached a platform of land -where fields of wheat and barley announced the vicinity of a village, -whose mud huts we descried on the side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> of a steep ravine; above which -towered a noble grove of the picturesque and lofty deodar. Under these -we pitched our tents, and soon became unconscious alike of time and -place.</p> - -<p>Rising at daybreak, we recommenced the toilsome ascent, and, shortly -after noon, reached the summit, whence was beheld an apparently endless -range of mountain upon mountain, the nearest bristling with forests, -the furthest hoary with snow. The description would be but a continual -recurrence to the same imagery, so much does, nature resemble herself -in the drapery which she has spread on these wild regions.</p> - -<p>Next morning, we commenced our preparations for the chase, and having -each taken up a position, our dogs and Paharries entered the heavy -cover, each giving tongue as the game started. The ear was now awake -with intense expectation; the before-predominating silence was broken -by echoed sounds.</p> - -<p>The whirr of the gaudy pheasant as he sprang upwards from the covert, -was succeeded by the roar of the murderous fowling-piece ringing his -death-knell among his native hills; and the sharp crack of the rifle -followed the track of the deer, as he dashed from the woods, and -bounded wildly down the rocky precipices.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p> - -<p>I had remained perched on my rock, contemplating the scene for a -considerable time without being called upon to use my weapons, when -suddenly a noble tehr<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> stood before me, his long dun hair hanging -in ringlets over his body, and his head erect, listening to the cries -of the beaters, now growing faint in the distance. I hastily snatched -up my rifle, (as I thought,) and taking a steady aim at his shoulder, -fired. Though barely forty yards from me, to my utter surprise, he -dashed away unharmed, and in two minutes I saw him bounding at full -speed along the ridge of a hill nearly a mile off. Turning away in -silent disgust, I felt almost inclined to vent my anger on the rifle, -but discovered that, in the haste of the moment, in lieu of the rifle -I had snatched up a fowling-piece loaded with shot. Having lost an -opportunity such as is rarely met with in tehr shooting, for they rank -among the wildest of mountain game, I descended the hill in search of -my companions, but they were far away, and I contented myself with the -pursuit of small game.</p> - -<p>At nightfall, our party straggled into camp, having all had but poor -sport, which was a trifling consolation to me.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> - -<p>The game in these mountains, though of great variety, are exceedingly -difficult to come at, owing to the heavy coverts which shelter them, -and it is by no means singular for the best sportsmen to return empty -handed. During my residence in the Himalayahs, I have frequently -wandered the greater part of the day without meeting with a head -of game—at other times, by being on the spot by daybreak, I have -succeeded in bringing down two or three chamois before sunrise. It is -requisite to approach them with great caution, and always from above; -if the first ball be unsuccessful, the deer will sometimes wheel -suddenly round, and stop from full speed to ascertain the reason of the -interruption.</p> - -<p>The gooral (or, more intelligibly speaking, the chamois) affords the -best sport of all the mountain tribe. He is to be found early in the -morning, feeding among the long grass, generally on the side of the -steepest mountains, and must be carefully stalked, for his senses are -of a refined order. When wounded, he often leads his destroyer a chase -of many a weary mile down the steepest kudds, and over sharp pointed -rocks, where the trail must be followed by the signs of the mountain -dew brushed from the surface of the grass, or the rocks stained by the -ebbing blood of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> stricken animal. The sagacity of the Paharries -in following this trail, and the sharpness of their sight, are very -remarkable, in contradistinction to their neighbours of the plains; but -the fact is easily accounted for, from their having exercised these -faculties in the chase from childhood amongst the same scenes, as they -very seldom quit their native mountains. I have often seen a Paharrie -detect, at the first glance, over a mountain, a gooral feeding on the -further side, at a distance which took some landmark given me by my -companion to ascertain the spot, and I have hardly ever known them to -err. They are a hardy, active and courageous race, who, having been a -most formidable foe to the British in the earlier periods of Indian -warfare, have, now that they have enlisted under the banners of the -Company, proved the bravest and best of the native army.</p> - -<p>Many kinds of deer are to be found amongst the mountains, and an -endless variety of the feathered tribe, amongst which the most -remarkable are the distinct species of pheasants which haunt the -mountains, the species varying with the altitude; but this subject is -rather too plentiful a theme for the present narrative, and must be -left to competent ornithologists.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> - -<p>The Jerrow, or maha, is the noblest specimen of the stag to be met -with, and may be ranked as the elk of the Himalayah. He stands from -four to five feet in height; his colour is a rich brown, and his -antlers, branching into six on each side, have obtained for him the -name of bara singh<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> in the plains. During the day time, they usually -lie in the heaviest jungle; but at morning and evening they may be seen -grazing in the rich pastures, and usually in pairs. The Jerrow, as he -stalks majestically through the woods, bearing proudly aloft his high -branching antlers, looks the undisputed monarch of the mountain forests.</p> - -<p>The next in size to the Jerrow is a deer about three and a half feet -in height at full growth, and termed the Surrow. He is of a dark hue, -with short deflected horns, thickly built, and with coarse bristling -hair, much like the wild hog. His head and shoulders resemble a donkey -ornamented with a horse's mane and a goat's horns. This scarce and -singular beast has a spirit in proportion to his deformity.</p> - -<p>His habitation is among the gloomiest rocks and caverns, and when -roused from his solitude he prepares readily for the conflict, and -charges with desperate ferocity.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p> - -<p>I remember an encounter between a brother-officer and sportsman, in -the hills, and a surrow, which he had wounded, which nearly proved -serious to the gallant and athletic soldier. M... threw himself upon -the wounded animal, when he charged, and seized him in his iron grasp, -so as to pinion the surrow and prevent his making use of his deadly -antlers. The struggle continued a long time; the deer ultimately -succeeded in getting his head free, and immediately struck savagely -backwards with his horns, when M... narrowly escaped the fatal stroke, -and casting himself sideways, grasped the surrow's neck with one arm, -so that he could not use his horns with effect, while with the other he -succeeded in drawing a clasp-knife, which put an end to the contest.</p> - -<p>Besides the animals above mentioned, the Himalayahs can show to the -persevering sportsman the small kaukur, or barking deer, the musk-deer, -the hog deer, and in the snowy regions, the ibex, and burral, or wild -sheep. The tiger and leopard frequent the deepest valleys of the lower -ranges, and, late in the autumn, the bear-shooting of these mountains -will rank with any sport that is to be met with in India.</p> - -<p>I was preparing for the journey towards the sources of the Ganges, -when a most unwelcome<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> visitor, in the shape of a fever, summoned me -homewards. It was in vain to struggle any longer with my obstinate -antagonist, so I yielded to the advice of my fellow-travellers, and -turned my back for ever on these wild and glorious mountains. The -floor-cloth of my tent was taken up, and the two corners bound together -by ropes which also attached it to the tent pole. In this primitive -conveyance I was borne by eight Paharries homewards to Landour.</p> - -<p>The jolting I underwent, and the stumps of trees that left their -numerous prints on my back, brought me in a few hours into a state -bordering on delirium. On descending the last valley before reaching -Landour, a severer thump than usual caused me to start up, and bless -my tormentors; the pole of the litter snapped, and away I rolled, with -my dusky companions, towards the lower regions. The circular motion -soon made me so giddy, that I might have rolled unconsciously into the -next world, but my guardian angel interposed a little copse of bamboos -between me and it. When I had recovered the senses remaining to me, and -peered out of the copse to ascertain the locale of my fellow rollers, -it was with feelings of mortification I counted and found all present -and sound except one, who had luckily broken his nose.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> - -<p>Two hours after this event, I found myself in bed, contemplating -the surgeon, as he tried the point of his lancet, with the feelings -which a pig evidently possesses and betrays on perceiving the butcher -sharpening his knife, preparatory to the final gash.</p> - -<p>The fever was not unto death, as the reader (if there be such a person) -will doubtless have concluded by the continuance of my narrative, and -therefore as I cannot hope to excite much sympathy for my sufferings, -or doubt as to the result, I had better recover at once, especially as -that will occupy but a few words in the present instance, though it -took me five weeks at that time.</p> - -<p>I had scarcely recovered my strength after this attack, when news of -a most warlike character arrived from the lower regions, inducing me -to start immediately to rejoin my regiment, which it was rumoured was -about to proceed immediately on active service. I reached Merut after -two days' journey, and found all minds intent upon the approaching -campaign in Scinde and Affghanistan.</p> - -<p>I had not been many days in cantonments, before conjecture was changed -to certainty, by the arrival of despatches from head-quarters, -ordering my regiment to form part of the army destined to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> assemble at -Ferozepore on the Sutlej, about the latter end of November.</p> - -<p>All now was bustle and business in our previously quiet cantonment. -The furnace in the armourer's forge glowed with as much assiduity, -and more brilliancy, doubtless, than that of yore at the shrine of -the incomprehensible Vesta. On every side were heard the clicking of -carbine and pistol locks; swords and lance-points sent sparkles of -fire from countless grindstones, and above all other sounds rose the -tumultuous din of the anvils.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The peak of Dwalagiri exceeds 27,000 feet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> I hear that botanists deny the unity of the genus.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> The tehr is a mountain goat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Bara singh—twelve horns.</p></div></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p> - -<p class="center">MATTERS RELATING TO THE AFGHANS—MARCH THROUGH DELHI TO -FEROZEPORE—RUNJEET'S INTERVIEW—MARCH TOWARDS BUHAWULPORE.</p> - - -<p>The circumstances on the north-western frontier, and beyond it, which -caused these warlike preparations, were nearly as follow:—</p> - -<p>The fortress of Herat, which formed the frontier bulwark of the -kingdom of Caubul, but which was now in possession of Prince Kamran, -(son of Mahmood, a deposed monarch of Afghanistan,) had been for some -time invested by a large Persian force, instigated, it was imagined, -by Russian influence. As this fortress opens a free ingress to the -countries on our north-western frontier, the government of India felt -particularly sensitive on its account, and suddenly commiserating its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> -forlorn condition, seized the present opportunity and pretext for -advancing to its relief.</p> - -<p>Shah Soojah Ool Moolk, having been deposed from the throne of Caubul, -after the battle of Neemla, in 1809, had for many years been residing -at Loodianah as a pensioner of the East India Company. At this -juncture, the government of India, pitying the kingdomless state of -that able monarch, resolved to reseat him on the throne, and thereby, -and, in the accomplishment of that purpose, to further the following -objects.</p> - -<p>1st. The relief of the besieged fortress of Herat.</p> - -<p>2ndly. The establishment of British supremacy and a military force in -Afghanistan, as an outwork to obstruct any encroachments.</p> - -<p>3rdly. The secure establishment of that long-meditated project, the -navigation of the river Indus: the savage nations bordering thereon, -with the exception of the Sikhs, having had but little intercourse with -the British until Sir Alexander Burnes' memorable visit.</p> - -<p>The throne of Caubul was at this time usurped by Dost Mahomed, -brother of the late enterprising vizier, Futteh Khan, whose courage -and abilities alone had retained the kingdom in the hands of the -descendants of Ahmed Shah; until after the dethronement of Soojah, and -murder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> of Mahmood, he transmitted it into more capable authority, the -royal line having become equally obnoxious from imbecility, cowardice, -and tyranny.</p> - -<p>Numerous factions, opposed to Dost Mahomed, still existed in -Afghanistan, amongst the leaders of which, the most powerful were, -Prince Kamran, the independent chief of Herat, and Dost Mahomed's own -brothers, the Ameers of Candahar. There also existed considerable -animosity between the members of rival families and tribes in -Afghanistan, similar to those feuds which divided the clans of the -Highlands even in the recent periods of Scottish history.</p> - -<p>Sir Alexander Burnes had been resident for some time at the court -of Dost Mahomed, but that monarch had latterly exhibited a decided -Philo-Russian propensity, although, in the language of the East, -he continued to profess himself the slave of the British: Burnes -distrusted the royal sincerity, and had been recalled.</p> - -<p>The fortress of Herat had been reduced to so weak a state, that -apprehensions were daily entertained of its falling<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> a prey to the -Persians,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> when an emissary from the British arrived with an offer of -relief, which was joyfully accepted, and the defence of the city was -carried on with renewed vigour, under the superintendence of Lieut. -Pottinger, an officer of the East India Company's Engineers.</p> - -<p>The Candahar chiefs, though suspected of being in communication with -Persia, observed a strict neutrality in the present aspect of affairs.</p> - -<p>Regarding the countries bordering on the Indus, no doubt was -entertained of a ready compliance with the proposals of government, -when accompanied by an argument of 20,000 well-disciplined troops.</p> - -<p>The Punjaub, lying between the British frontier and Afghanistan, was -at that time subject to the renowned Maharajah Runjeet Singh, between -whom and the British power a well-observed alliance had existed for -many years; but an insuperable religious hostility divided the Sikhs -from the Afghans. Shah Soojah himself had experienced scanty clemency, -when flying from his country through the Punjaub, after his defeat at -Neemla, for he was seized by the old Lion of the Sikhs, thrown into -prison, and robbed of every article he possessed, among which was -the cele<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>brated Koh-i-noor,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> one of the most valuable jewels in -existence. Shah Soojah having escaped from, or been let out of prison, -as useless lumber, found a permanent refuge in the British territories.</p> - -<p>A meeting was arranged to take place at Ferozepore between Runjeet -Singh and the governor-general of India (Lord Auckland), at which the -movements of the former, in co-operation with the British forces, were -to be arranged.</p> - -<p>Matters stood on the footing thus briefly described, when a portion -of the Bengal army were ordered to assemble at Ferozepore, about the -end of November, 1838; and, at the same time, a force from Bombay -was directed to sail to the mouth of the Indus, and march along the -banks of that river, meeting the Bengal army in the neighbourhood of -Shikarpore.</p> - -<p>At the latter end of October, the regiment to which I belonged marched -out of cantonments, and encamped on the turf where many a spirited -field day had been enacted during the previous season. On the following -day our tents were all struck at the dawn of morning, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> regiment -marched about eight miles towards Delhi.</p> - -<p>The fourth morning after leaving Meerut, we crossed the Jumna on a -bridge of boats, and entered Delhi, the far-famed residence of the -Mogul emperors; formerly a city conspicuous for wealth and luxury, -now equally so for the impudent demeanour of its inhabitants, the -manufacture of shawls, and an intolerable abundance of flies.</p> - -<p>Delhi still contains many substantial native residences, a vast extent -of ruins in its suburbs, a few old tombs and mosques, the royal palace, -and a thickly-peopled bazaar.</p> - -<p>A high flight of steps at the end of one of the principal bazaars, -leads to the mosque built by Shah Jehan, some two hundred years since. -Passing under a narrow archway at the head of the steps, you enter a -large square court, paved with stone. At the eastern side stands the -high-domed praying-place, and each angle of the square is garnished -with a lofty minaret, all built of red sandstone.</p> - -<p>The court is edged with a low range of cloisters, over which is a -battlemented terrace, commanding an extensive view of the city and -suburbs.</p> - -<p>In the distance is seen the celebrated Koutub—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>a monument erected -by an emperor of that name. This pillar is elegantly and elaborately -carved, stands about two hundred and fifty feet in height, and is -ascended by a spiral staircase.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> - -<p>The original intention of the architect is unknown; the hieroglyphics -supposed to convey important intelligence being a mystery; but it -is conjectured that it must have been intended as a minaret for a -projected mosque, which was never completed. Near the Koutub is a -curious iron pillar, the intention of which is as much hidden in -obscurity as that of the elegant minar. It appears to have irritated -the destructive organ of Nadir Shah, who vainly endeavoured to dig -it up, and failing in the experiment, brought his largest cannon to -bear on the obnoxious pillar, which bears the impression of the ball, -but stands as firmly as ever. We were informed that the mystery had -recently been penetrated by a Brahmin sage, who had discovered that it -was the axis of the earth: the principal objection to this ingenious -theory perhaps consists in the latitude of this immovable pole.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the palace of the city still dwells the nominal King of Delhi, -the fallen representative of the Mogul empire, now unable to command -his own movements—that is, if they should be directed to an escape -from the courteous but actual thraldom he undergoes. The palace is -surrounded by lofty battlemented walls of red granite, and a deep moat. -Passing through the ponderous gateway, you enter a large square court, -whence another archway leads into a second court, of still greater -dimensions, at the extremity of which stands the audience hall, built -on eight massive pillars of alabaster. In the centre of this hall -stands a throne of pure crystal, on which, our native guide informed -us, had sat many a mighty emperor. "See, then, a mightier than the -present king of the Mogul empire sit on that throne," exclaimed one -of our officers, bringing himself to an anchor on the tempting seat. -The amazed guide turned up his eyes in pious horror, expecting the -apparition of some monarch of that mighty line to avenge this invasion -of his royal seat of honour; but they seemed disposed to put up with -the affront, or perhaps to acquiesce in the observation, and remained -quiet in their graves.</p> - -<p>From hence we passed into the palace gardens, on the Jumna's banks, -which were once the ad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>miration of all beholders, but now much -neglected. Here I observed, under an alcove, a sickly-looking lad, -who proved to be the king's eldest son, and heir-apparent, amusing -himself with lighting crackers, and pelting them at his attendants, -or thrusting them in the faces of those he could reach—a pretty fair -emblem of what the petty tyrant might become were time and opportunity -afforded him. Yet, even in modern times, have men raised an incubus of -this class to oppress and torture themselves, and, bending meekly to -the royal idol, earned and deserved the infliction. The recent history -of India, not a century ago, teems with instances which cast far in the -shade the comparatively feeble efforts of Domitian or Commodus.</p> - -<p>The cholera was raging to an awful extent whilst we were encamped -outside the walls of Delhi, and upwards of two hundred were daily -falling victims. Though we felt not the scourge at once, the column had -not proceeded many marches before the seeds of the disease, probably -brought from hence, and lurking among us, burst and spread devastation -around.</p> - -<p>The experimental camel-battery, in charge of Major Pew, joined our -brigade, which had been formed at Delhi, and accompanied us to -Ferozepore.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> - -<p>On the 4th of November we quitted Delhi, and marched through an -uninteresting country, over-spread with low jungle and marsh, save -where a small village, perched on an eminence, enlivened the view by -the cultivation in its neighbourhood. A chain of pickets was now posted -daily, and an officer sent about twenty miles in advance to explore and -report on the country to our brigadier.</p> - -<p>The cholera, that scourge of the east, now made its appearance amongst -us, carrying off three of our men the first day, and sending numbers -into hospital, but singularly enough not another fell a victim to the -disease, which confined itself to the natives and committed dire havoc -amongst them. Numbers died on the line of march daily, and the camp and -hospital were literally strewn with dead bodies.</p> - -<p>No sooner had the pestilence stricken them than they succumbed to fate -without using an effort to obtain relief, and died often without a -struggle in less than an hour after their seizure.</p> - -<p>Grass-cutters, coolies, and the lower castes, were the principal -victims, and few were the officers in camp who had not to lament the -loss of some servants carried off during the four days the epidemic -resided with us.</p> - -<p>The causes assigned, by the medical men, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> the outbreak of cholera, -were the unripe grain used by the natives as food, and the rank -vegetation springing around us; for we were passing still through -jungle, interwoven with long coarse grass. However, this continued -the same the whole way to Ferozepore nearly, and the scourge remained -but four days upon us, which does not tend to strengthen the above -mentioned reason. I know not why we should attempt to assign causes -for the prevalence of cholera, whilst those of many other diseases are -unheeded.</p> - -<p>One learned practitioner (a Dr. Tytler) has written a book to prove -that the malady is caused by the prevalent use of rice amongst the -natives of India, and proposes calling the cholera the "Morbus -Oryzeus." No doubt the change of name was in order to show the choleric -imp how well we knew him, and to warn him off.</p> - -<p>But, however applicable the theory might seem to India, the learned -doctor must find some other reason for its European visit, where rice -is certainly not the principal food of the inhabitants. To those -acquiescing in the Tytler theory, I can only recommend, in the words of -Horace,</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -"Spectatum admissi <i>risum</i> teneatis amici." -</p> - -<p>On the 28th of November we reached Feroze<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>pore, the general rendezvous -for the Bengal force, and found the army encamped about four miles from -the left bank of the Sutlej.</p> - -<p>Lord Auckland and Sir Henry Fane had also arrived, to meet Runjeet -Singh, who was encamped, with a force of 20,000 troops, on the opposite -bank, and had thrown a bridge of boats across the river. The Sutlej was -then about two hundred and fifty yards in breadth, rolling sluggishly -over its muddy bed, and through a country where little was to be seen -but long dry grass and low jhow jungle.</p> - -<p>The town was undergoing considerable improvements, under the hands -of our engineers. The fort, too, was re-echoing to the mason's and -carpenter's weapons, and most of the narrow streets in the suburbs were -being levelled, to make way for a wide and massive bazaar, so that, -from a mean and dirty place, Ferozepore bids fair to become, ere long, -a large and flourishing town.</p> - -<p>The army, daily arriving, were encamped north-west of Ferozepore, -between it and the Sutlej, and consisted of—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>The Cavalry Brigade, commanded by Colonel Arnold, comprising Her -Majesty's 16th Lan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>cers, 2nd and 3rd Native Cavalry, and one troop -Horse Artillery.</p> - -<p>1st Infantry Brigade, commanded by Colonel Sale: of Her Majesty's 13th -Light Infantry, two regiments Native Infantry, and the Camel Battery.</p> - -<p>2nd Infantry Brigade, Colonel Dennis: Her Majesty's 3rd Buffs, two -regiments Native Infantry, Sappers.</p> - -<p>3rd Infantry Brigade, Colonel Roberts: Company's European regiment, -two regiments Native Infantry, Park of Artillery.</p> - -<p>4th Brigade, Colonel Nott: three regiments Native Infantry.</p> - -<p>5th Brigade, Colonel Paul: three regiments Native Infantry, one -company Artillery, besides engineers, commissariat, and staff.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The day after our arrival, Maharajah Runjeet Singh came over to visit -Lord Auckland, and I accompanied the governor-general's escort on -the occasion. After remaining upwards of six hours in the saddle, in -front of Lord Auckland's Durbar tents, we heard the welcome sound -of Runjeet's gongs and nousheras approaching, and shortly after, -from beneath a massive canopy of dust, emerged the motley array of -Runjeet's elephants<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> and cavalcade. Now, hundreds of gaily clad Sikh -horsemen—some in bright chain armour, others in various coloured silks -and cloth of gold, brandished their long spears, flung back their -brass embossed shields, and galloped with headlong fury around the -maharajah's elephants, exhibiting to us the singular dexterity with -which they could wield their arms and manage their horses.</p> - -<p>As the procession approached, Runjeet was conspicuous in front, on -an enormous elephant, and dressed in a plain suit of ruby coloured -cashmere, with a turban of the same colour, whilst on his arm glittered -the famous koh-i-noor, the diamond which, as I before mentioned, his -highness obtained in no very creditable manner from Shah Soojah.</p> - -<p>The maharajah was rather below the middling stature, slight in form, -and his face expressive of the shrewdest cunning. The leer that -occasionally escaped from his single optic seemed to tell a clear tale -of debauchery. He was then about fifty-six years of age, although I -should have taken him to be more; but an unbridled devotion to ardent -spirits tells on personal appearance, and appeared to have corroded his -iron frame.</p> - -<p>After the chief had passed, a swarm of Sikhs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> followed, some on -horseback and some on foot, dressed in the most fantastical and -grotesque style, but at the same time the materials were generally of a -costly and extravagant quality.</p> - -<p>The long spear and matchlock appeared to be their favourite weapons; -but many were armed only with tolwars and daggers. The rear was closed -up by a battalion of infantry, dressed much like our sepoys, and -drilled according to the French system of military tactics, introduced -by General Alard.</p> - -<p>As Runjeet approached the audience tent, Lord Auckland and Sir Henry -Fane put their elephants in motion to meet him, and, after sundry -greetings and salaams, the whole party proceeded to the Durbar, where -the principal actors were obscured from our view by the dense mass of -British officers and Sikhs, who thronged in after them. What passed is -barely worthy of record. Lord Auckland presented a picture of Queen -Victoria, which Runjeet, with becoming gallantry, pressed to his -lips. After sundry professions of inviolable friendship, Runjeet made -some inquiries regarding Aden, which Sir Henry Fane informed him was -occupied by a British garrison. In a short time they adjourned to look -at some cannon, which had been brought as a present to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> maharajah, -and over which both he and Sir Henry narrowly escaped breaking their -heads, having stumbled on a heap of cannon balls arranged near the tent.</p> - -<p>Accompanied by his suite, Runjeet remounted his elephant amidst a -deafening salute from the guns of the camel-battery; these seemed -to take his fancy vastly; and, drawing up opposite them, he saw the -camels yoked and the guns drawn past him, expressing great delight and -astonishment at the neatness and regularity of this newly constructed -battery.</p> - -<p>When the maharajah had departed, we also returned to camp, which we did -not reach before one o'clock, when the sun, although a December one, -was fiercely hot.</p> - -<p>On the 1st of December, Lord Auckland returned Runjeet's visit. We -arrived at the river about sunrise, and having crossed on the bridge -of boats, found Runjeet's army drawn up, and forming a street from -the river to the Durbar tents. Nearest to us were the cavalry, the -same motley hordes we had seen two days before; beyond them, stood the -infantry, dressed, both in the military and common acceptation of the -term, with extraordinary attention; and if they will fight as well as -they look, are likely to do their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> master good service. Next came a -body of goorcheras, or irregular horsemen, dressed in white, and armed -with lances and matchlocks—a remarkably fine-looking body of men, but -generally believed to have an insuperable objection to injure their -fellow-creatures. Much as we may admire their philanthropy, we must -nevertheless admit the quality to be objectionable in a military point -of view. In rear of this array of philanthropists, were disposed a -numerous body of surwars, mounted on camels, and carrying swivel-guns, -which looked like large blunderbusses, from which abominable -instruments an incessant firing was kept up from the time we crossed -the river until we recrossed on our return.</p> - -<p>The governor-general having made his appearance in the street of Sikhs, -Runjeet and his court advanced at a rapid pace on their elephants to -greet his excellency. The dust arose in such masses as for a time -obscured every object; but at the point of junction of the two parties, -the concentrated cloud slowly drifted aside, and displayed to our -dazzled sight the richest blaze of Eastern splendour that for many -years had reflected the rays of our destructive enemy.</p> - -<p>The elephants' housings in Runjeet's suite were made of -gorgeously-embroidered gold cloth, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> surmounted by howdahs, inlaid -with ivory and ebony; and Runjeet and his attendants, glittering with -silver and gold, silks and precious stones, formed a marked contrast to -the governor-general and his retinue in their scarlet or blue uniforms.</p> - -<p>The maharajah, as before, was remarkable among the Sikh throng for the -uniformity of his costume, and the noble elephant which carried him, on -which Lord Auckland had now seated himself, at Runjeet's invitation; -and the whole procession moved rapidly towards the Durbar tents.</p> - -<p>Disengaging myself from the mêlée which ensued, I galloped up the -street, and after some difficulty, succeeded in effecting an entrance -through the silken gateway. Within, was a garden, where the rarest -evergreens and flowers were growing, having sprung up, as if by -magic,<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> during the night. In the centre, was the Durbar-tent, made -of strongly-woven Cashmere, and supported by silver poles. The floor -was spread with Persian carpets, and the furniture was of frosted -silver, inlaid with golden ornaments.</p> - -<p>The maharajah having seated himself, Sir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> Henry Fane and Lord Auckland -took their places on each side.</p> - -<p>Behind Runjeet stood his prime minister, the wily and tyrannous Dhian -Singh, clad in a panoply of bright steel armour, elaborately gilded. -Little could be seen of his face besides the dark flashing eyes and -high-bridged nose, for a monstrous pair of moustaches and a beard -covered his visage and a great part of his body also.</p> - -<p>A glittering string of diamonds and emeralds encircled his neck; and -in his turban stood a bustard's feather, fastened by a diamond brooch. -Scattered about the tent were many of the sirdars and ministers, -remarkable, principally, for the variety and magnificence of their -attire and the length of their beards.</p> - -<p>Mr. Macnaghten, who had been appointed British envoy to Caubul in the -meditated operations, stood in front of the trio, acting as interpreter -on the occasion, during which I did not hear any political subject -discussed.</p> - -<p>Runjeet, finding matters look heavy and irksome, sent for a party -of Punjaubee girls, to dance and sing for the amusement of his two -solemn visitors. The young ladies who made their appearance were not -remarkable for beauty: amongst<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> the whole coterie, I saw but two girls -who could be called pretty. I did not hear, and lament I cannot record, -the opinions of the governor-general and commander-in-chief on this -particular.</p> - -<p>The imposing ballet being ended, and the little Nautch damsels having -filed off, presents of Cashmere shawls and jewellery were brought on -trays and exhibited. When these had been taken away, there seemed no -chance of any more amusements. Poor Runjeet's stock was exhausted; -he looked dreadfully ennuyé; and it certainly seemed a relief to the -chief performers when the party broke up. We all hastened to get back -to our posts when the ceremony was over, though much impeded by the -inquisitiveness of the Sikhs, whose curiosity about every trifle was -quite insatiable. A long-haired barbarian begged to be informed the -use of a sabretash, which seemed to take his fancy much, and inquired -if it was used to carry provisions? He was informed that we seldom or -ever touched food for many days on a campaign if there were much hard -fighting. "Wau, wau!" exclaimed the astonished barbarian, dropping the -sabretash, and gazing in his informant's face with equal amazement and -credulity.</p> - -<p>A Sikh sipahee, remarking some British officers with few symptoms of -manhood visible on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> faces, quaintly inquired what rank those -young ladies held in the army!</p> - -<p>Benighted savage! he little knew, and perhaps could never understand, -the absolute and tyrannous sway maintained by our Northern fair!</p> - -<p>About mid-day, we recrossed the bridge of boats, and returned, under a -scorching sun, to camp.</p> - -<p>The following day, a review of the British forces was held, for the -benefit of the maharajah. About ten thousand men were under arms at -daybreak; but from that time till noon, when we returned to camp, -everything was wrapped in an almost impenetrable veil of dust.</p> - -<p>The next day, Runjeet gave us a field-day on his side of the river, -which I was prevented by duty from witnessing; but from the picket -near the Sutlej, where I was posted, the firing of the infantry and -artillery seemed quite as rapid, though not quite so steady, as our -own. Indeed, most of the officers returned astonished to find the Sikh -army so effective and well-disciplined.</p> - -<p>For this discipline, Runjeet was mainly indebted to Generals Alard and -Ventura, two officers of the French imperial army, who passed through -Lahore on their travels from Persia to Hindostan.</p> - -<p>They were detained by Runjeet in a sort of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> honorary captivity, until -he succeeded in inducing them to enter his service. At the expiration -of six months, Ventura exhibited to the maharajah a battalion of Sikhs, -organized on the French system of military tactics, and Runjeet, as may -be supposed, was greatly pleased at the incalculable improvement in his -men's appearance.</p> - -<p>One circumstance gave considerable annoyance to the sensitive general, -which was the indomitable taste for finery among the subordinate -officers, many of whom far surpassed their commander in richness of -costume. This circumstance was turned to some account by the politic -Ventura, who insinuated to his master that many officers of his -battalion were enabled to wear richer lace and bullion than he could -procure or afford. Runjeet replied, that he would put it beyond their -power to do so any longer, and caused to be made and presented to -Ventura a pair of pearl epaulettes of unrivalled magnificence.</p> - -<p>Both these officers remained long in the service of the Sikhs. Alard -died shortly before the old Lion himself, but Ventura remained to serve -his successor Shere Singh.</p> - -<p>A continual scene of festivity prevailed in Runjeet's camp during our -halt at Ferozepore. The sound of music and revelry was borne on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> -evening breeze, the rattle of feu-de-joie rang daily in our ears, and -at night the welkin glowed with fireworks and illuminations.</p> - -<p>At length, the order for our march was issued, and the proclamation -stated, that in consequence of recent intelligence<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> from Herat, -the commander-in-chief, and governor-general deemed it requisite to -prosecute the campaign with the following troops only—viz.,</p> - -<blockquote> -<p>The Cavalry Brigade, and Camel Battery.</p> - - - -<p>Three Brigades of Infantry and the Artillery of the Park, with two -troops of Horse Artillery.</p></blockquote> - -<p>The whole Bengal force was placed under command of Sir Willoughby -Cotton, until its junction with the Bombay army, when Sir John Keane -was to assume command of the united forces, as Sir Henry Fane was -suffering severely from ill health, and about to resign his command and -return to England.</p> - -<p>Colonel Thackwell, of the 3rd Light Dragoons, was appointed to command -the cavalry division, consisting of two brigades, one from the Bengal, -the other from the Bombay presidency.</p> - -<p>On the tenth of December, we commenced our march from Ferozepore, -passing, during the first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> four days, through the protected Sikh -states, and encamping near villages where supplies were abundant and -water excellent.</p> - -<p>On the fifth day, we entered the territories of Bahawul Khan, -concerning whom many false reports had been prevalent in camp, setting -forth his ill disposition towards the British, and his desire to impede -our progress through his country; the propagators of these fanciful -rumours fathering them invariably on the most plausible and least -tangible authorities.</p> - -<p>The confidential whispers of the envoy who was in our rear, or of -Sir Alexander Burnes, who was in advance, were usually quoted by -these alarmists to command attention to their fabrications. At first, -these tales formed matter of amusement and speculation on the line of -march; but as falsehoods were daily multiplied, the authors, and their -inventions, became a fair subject of ridicule, and, as in the fable of -the shepherd's boy and the wolf, all reports were alike disbelieved. -However, the information department, during the whole campaign, was -not eminently successful; and this may, in some degree, palliate the -superabundance of false reports prevalent during the whole march, -which, in many instances, had influence over those in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> command, and -were productive of mischievous results.</p> - -<p>During our march through the Bahawulpore country, we found an abundant -stock of grain collected for us at each encampment, which enabled the -commissariat to reserve the stores laid in for the campaign.</p> - -<p>During each morning's march, the Sutlej lay about two or three miles -distant. The country adjacent to it was well cultivated, and in some -places covered with thick underwood; yet, notwithstanding the abundant -supply of fuel on the river's banks, many commissariat camels had been -laden with wood for the use of the army, which had much more need of -grain and other useful stores, of which ere long they bitterly felt the -want. It is worthy of observation, that Burnes, in his report of the -Indus and Sutlej, made frequent mention of the jungle in their vicinity.</p> - -<p>Although the prospect, thus far, was sufficiently cheering on the -right, that on our left flank presented a dreary contrast. We had -reached the borders of that extensive desert which lies south and east -of Bahawulpore, and reduces the cultivated tract of this country to a -mere strip of land, bordering the Sutlej. Far as the eye could reach -when turned towards the British possessions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> nothing was discernible -but a barren and trackless desert. Here and there, a few hillocks -had collected and risen over some untimely shrubs, which had sprung -up unconscious of their fatal position, until the domineering sands, -jealous of such an encroachment on their demesnes, arose and entombed -their helpless victims, leaving these mounds as so many trophies to -assert their resistless and desolating sway.</p> - -<p>The roads were deep and sandy, causing the artillery horses and -bullocks severe labour in dragging the guns. But the camels of Major -Pew's battery were quite in their element on the desert, and stalked -lustily away with the heavy guns and carriages.</p> - -<p>About the end of December, we had some light showers of rain, which -rendered the climate delightfully cool in the daytime, (the nights and -mornings had been piercingly cold for some weeks,) and cloth garments -were in great requisition.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants of the country were so peaceably disposed, that we were -enabled to send on tents over night according to the custom in India, -which ensures, on arrival in camp, every morning, the luxuries of a cup -of coffee, a couch, and a bath; the latter is taken <i>al fresco</i> from -a skin filled<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> with water, and poured over the shoulders by a native. -Notwithstanding the good feeling exhibited by the country-people, our -military authorities seemed resolved to distrust them, and posted a -squadron on picket, day and night, with orders to keep mounted patrols -on the alert. An opportunity was hereby afforded of exercising our -vigilance on the camel-drivers and grass-cutters near the camp, and -also of ascertaining by experiment, how much deterioration would be -effected in the constitution of man and horse, by a curtailment of -natural rest, added to long daily marches, and what length of time -would be required to effect that object: the result amply solved the -problem.</p> - -<p>The jungle, on the banks of the river, held a vast quantity of game; -the most numerous of which, was the black partridge—a bird also found -in many parts of Hindostan, and the most beautifully marked, I think, -of the feathered tribe. They frequent the jhow<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> jungle during the -heat of the day, and require an extensive and compact line of beaters -to get them out of the thick covert. Hare, snipe, and quail, were also -plentiful, and, occasionally, we met with a great variety of wild -duck and water-fowl of almost every description, among<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> the marshes -by the river side. The shooting in these marshes can only be followed -by those who despise malaria, for they are proverbially unhealthy: -the excitement of meeting a stray tiger, or sinking in one of the -treacherous quicksands which abound in the vicinity of the Sutlej, -and are generally felt before they are seen, may add zest to more -adventurous sportsmen.</p> - -<p>The distance from Ferozepore to Bahawulpore was two hundred and -twenty-one miles, according to our route; this, we overcame in eighteen -marches, having halted twice for a day. The government agents had been -exerting themselves to get supplies laid in for us at each march, but -complaints were urged against Bahawul Khan, of not having duly exerted -himself in forwarding this object. Poor man! no doubt he entertained -strong fear regarding his own independence, after the military visit -with which he was now threatened—no British troops having marched this -road previously. Shah Soojah, with his motley contingent,<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> preceded -the column, and no doubt seized the lion's share of whatever supplies -he met with, and from his previous character, there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> is no reason to -suppose that Bahawul Khan entertained a high opinion of our royal -companion.</p> - -<p>Our army now marched in five columns, the sappers and miners in -advance, the cavalry-brigade next, and the three infantry-brigades in -succession, at intervals of one day's march between each brigade.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> It must be borne in mind that forts are not carried by -eastern nations with the celerity of modern art. A siege of two or -three years' duration being a matter of frequent occurrence.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> "Koh-i-noor" means Mountain of Light, and is applied to a -diamond something less than a pigeon's egg!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Koutub means, literally, the pole. The title of the -emperor of that name was Koutub-ul-dien, or the pole-star of religion. -He reigned at Lahore and Delhi, and died about <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1210.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> This <i>magic</i> garden had been imported from Lahore, and -planted during the night.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Viz., the news then received of the Persians having -retired from Herat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> The jhow is a shrub resembling the yew tree, and affords -good food for the camels.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> This contingent consisted of raw Hindoo levies raised for -Shah Soojah's guard, in Afghanistan, amounting to about five thousand -men and four guns.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p> - -<p class="center">ARRIVAL AT BAHAWULPORE—SIR HENRY FANE'S INTERVIEW WITH THE -KHAN—PROGRESS TO SCINDE ACROSS THE INDUS.</p> - - -<p>On the 29th of December, the cavalry-brigade reached Bahawulpore, in -the vicinity of which the country is richly cultivated. The view was -enlivened by hordes of Bahawul Khan's wild-looking cavalry, encamped -amongst the groves of palm and date trees in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>We marched into our camp near the city under a heavy fall of rain, and -were met by a son of the khan, who came to pay his respects to Sir -Willoughby Cotton, whilst his father visited Sir Henry Fane on board -his boats, which kept parallel with the army during its progress.</p> - -<p>On the 31st, Sir Henry returned the visit, attended by a numerous suite -of officers. Bahawul<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> Khan made no efforts to display any splendour; -perhaps, he considered it politic to affect poverty in the presence of -the British chief. The conversation was as interesting as usual on the -like occasions, and ran, as well as I can remember, nearly as follows:—</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir Henry.</span>—I come as the emissary of the British government, -to offer you their friendship.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">B. Khan.</span>—I am sensible of the condescension displayed towards -me, both by them and yourself, in granting this interview.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir Henry.</span>—The British government are just and equitable, -faithful to their friends, terrible to their enemies, (looking very -dignified, and rather fierce.)</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">B. Khan.</span>—I fully appreciate the magnitude of the British -name, and see their power. All I have is theirs, and I am your slave.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sir Henry.</span>—Now, talk we of other matters. Is not the climate -unusually cold for this season of the year, at Bahawulpore?</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">B. Khan.</span>—It is, undoubtedly; but at the present moment, I -feel neither cold nor damp, whilst basking in the sunshine of your -presence.</p> - -<p>Sir Henry was looking blue with cold, and stiff with dignity; so the -khan must have been of a fiery temperament if he spoke the truth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p> - -<p>Such was the substance of the conversation that passed between the -two potentates; but setting bombast aside, Bahawul Khan has always -expressed to those officers who visited his capital the utmost respect -for the British, and an anxiety to preserve a sincere alliance. His -decision has been unquestionably politic; for, by placing himself under -British protection, he has saved his country from the rapacity of his -formidable neighbours, the Sikhs.</p> - -<p>The city of Bahawulpore is of considerable extent, and surrounded -by a dilapidated mud wall, about twelve feet in height and four in -thickness. The principal houses are built of brick, but huddled so -closely together, as to engender filth and heat to an unnecessary -degree. The khan's palace is in the centre of the town, and presents -as mean an exterior as the other houses. Of the interior, I can form -no estimate, not having visited it. The narrow bazaars were thronged -all day; and trade seemed to be flourishing briskly amongst the twenty -thousand inhabitants which Bahawulpore is said to contain.</p> - -<p>Woollens, hardware, and a variety of fruit, seemed to be the principal -articles exposed for sale; but the prevalent commodity is undoubtedly -filth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> - -<p>The men are certainly a larger, better looking, and more brawny race -than that of the upper provinces of Bengal.</p> - -<p>The women are so carefully wrapped in veils, that I was enabled to -catch only a faint glimpse of their faces, and a very indistinct one -of their figures; but the damsels of the East usually evince greater -anxiety to conceal their face than any other part of their persons.</p> - -<p>The only Bahawulpore fair ones I had a good opportunity of seeing and -speaking to, were some dancing-girls, attending the khan's party, -whilst in our camp. They were lively creatures, with very fair skins, -laughing black eyes, and the airy, graceful figures that are almost the -universal characteristic of Eastern belles.</p> - -<p>The city is about three miles distant from the Sutlej, which must ere -long be the grand channel of communication between the upper provinces -of Bengal and the Bombay presidency. Its turbid surface, now seldom -unruffled by aught save the occasional plunge of a startled alligator, -will soon resound to the cries of busy boatmen and the plash of -innumerable oars.</p> - -<p>On New Year's day, 1839, we resumed our march, bidding adieu to the -Sutlej, which diverges hence a little to the west, and unites its -waters<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> with the Chinab, which, thirty miles below this confluence, -falls into the Indus.</p> - -<p>As we advanced, the desert continued on our left, cheerless as ever; -but at every ten or twelve miles, we found a halting-place at some -village, near which were usually some fields of grain, and invariably -good water.</p> - -<p>The stunted shrubs continued to afford us ample firewood, and the -occasional hamlets grain enough to feed our horses without indenting on -the commissariat stores.</p> - -<p>Khanpore, eight marches from Bahawulpore, is a city of considerable -extent, and occasionally the residence of Bahawul Khan, who visits it -on account of the abundance of wild boar and hog deer frequenting the -neighbouring jungles, many of which we saw in our shooting-excursions, -and occasionally on the line of march.</p> - -<p>The governor fired a royal salute as the cavalry-brigade marched -through the city, which compliment was cheaply returned (ammunition -being valuable) by our band striking up "God save the king!"—who the -monarchs were, to whom these royal honours were paid, we were unable to -ascertain.</p> - -<p>Here, many of our servants and camp-followers deserted during the -night; nor were we able to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> recover any of the runaways. There is a -track from hence to Hissar, across the desert, which they probably -took, being weary of the long march, and frightened by the account of -some fruit-merchants from Caubul, in camp, who expatiated on the cold -of Afghanistan and the ferocity of its inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Five marches beyond this place, brought us to the frontiers of the -Ameers of Scinde, where we were joined by Sir Alexander Burnes, who -seemed dubious of the peaceful disposition of the Hydrabad Ameers, -though their cousin of Khyrpoor professed his readiness to co-operate -in the free navigation of the Indus.</p> - -<p>This part of Upper Scinde is overgrown with thick jungle, which is -cleared in the neighbourhood of villages, to make room for crops of -jewar, coarse sugar-cane, and wheat. The natives seem a hardy and -industrious race; but the tribes of Beloochees, from the mountains on -the right bank of the Indus, infest the country, and are its bane, -exercising a despotic authority over the unfortunate and peaceable -Scindians, and plundering travellers and merchants of all countries who -venture this road without a sufficient protection. No sooner had we -crossed the boundary-line, than we were cautioned not to venture singly -any dis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>tance from camp, as these marauders were sure to be hovering in -the vicinity, on the look-out for plunder; and several camp-followers -were daily murdered by these savages for the sake of the few pieces of -silver in their possession, or, failing these, for the clothes they -wore; yet in spite of these numerous examples, the roving propensities -of our followers were not easily overcome.</p> - -<p>Hitherto, no communication had been received from Sir John Keane, who -was to land at Kurachee, one of the mouths of the Indus, and advance by -the right bank of the river to Shikarpore, having previously arranged -the terms of a treaty with the Ameers of Hydrabad, either amicably or -with the bayonet.</p> - -<p>When we had arrived within three marches of Bukkur Island and -fort, where it was intended that the army should cross the Indus, -intelligence was received from Sir John Keane, announcing his arrival -at Tatta, a large town on the right bank, about forty miles below -Hydrabad;<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> he had experienced great difficulties even in reaching -that place, from want of carriage, and the unfriendly disposition of -the Ameers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> - -<p>Hydrabad was fortified in the usual native fashion, and was said to be -garrisoned by more than twenty thousand Beloochees: confiding in these -troops, (or, at their dictation,) the Ameer had rejected the terms -proposed by the political agent, Colonel Pottinger, which were—</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>1st. The payment of thirty lakhs of rupees, the arrears of tribute due -to Shah Soojah.</p> - -<p>2ndly. To throw open, and promote by every means in their power, the -free navigation of the Indus.</p> - -<p>3rdly. To support a force of four thousand troops to be quartered in -Scinde.</p></blockquote> - -<p>It appeared far from surprising that the Ameers, who had always been -noted for a jealousy of intercourse with strangers, and especially -with the British, should have felt averse to comply with terms which -rendered Scinde, at one stroke of the pen, a mere dependency on our -colossal Eastern empire.</p> - -<p>On the march towards Bukkur, the jungle was so thick on each side of -the road, that the Scindians, had they been disposed to annoy us, had -many opportunities of effecting that object almost with impunity. -One morning, about daybreak, the advanced guard missed the road, -and led nearly the whole army astray in the woods,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> where the paths -branching in many directions, induced each party to wander according -to their fancy. Col. Ninny, an officer of remarkable intelligence, who -accompanied the party with which I was wandering, pushed resolutely -forward, insisting that the path he followed must be the right one. -"But surely, sir," remonstrated one of the officers, "this cannot be -the way, for we now face the rising sun, and our proper direction is -nearly west." The intellectual features of the gallant colonel were -contracted with ineffable scorn, as he replied, "And pray, sir, what -has the sun got to do with our road?"</p> - -<p>Though blind at the time to the acuteness of the observation, I have -since dwelt upon it, as singularly characteristic of that gifted -individual, who, with a steady perseverance, has braved obstacles, -which, (as in the present case,) judged by the fallacious test of -reason, would have appeared to ordinary men insuperable! Unhappily, in -this instance, the combinations of that <i>great mind</i> were not allowed -time for development, as an aide-de-camp rode up, and pointing to the -rear, indicated that the road lay in that direction, and the general -would be happy to see us on it.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 25th of January we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> marched up to the town of -Rohree and encamped on the banks of the Indus.</p> - -<p>Rohree is built on a flinty rock that rises abruptly on the left -side of the river, which had hitherto been low and full of dangerous -quicksands. A range of bare hills, trending to the south, run from -Rohree, throughout lower Scinde, and terminate in the Delta, a few -miles from the sea. From the southern part of the town, a thick grove -of bastard date-trees extends many miles along the river's banks, -adding considerably to the beauty of the view. In the river, opposite -to Rohree, and between it and Sukkur, stands the important island and -fortress of Bukkur. The site is low and sandy, but the fort, which is -built of brick, stands about thirty feet in height, and is commanded -from either bank, as the Indus is less than eight hundred yards in -breadth at this season.</p> - -<p>From Sukkur, on the opposite shore, the bank rises to a considerable -elevation, opposing a barrier to the encroachment of the waters at -the periods of inundation. On the left shore, the whole country is -intersected by watercourses, made for the purpose of retaining the -water after the inundation, which is said to cover a large extent of -country.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> - -<p>A few miles from Rohree are the ruins of the ancient city of Alore, -which present to the view an extensive field of devastation. They -afford little interest to the traveller, as the few edifices standing -are so dilapidated, and the imagery so nearly effaced, as to baffle the -researches of the most patient antiquarian. The indefatigable Burnes -has pursued the subject with his usual intelligence, but such matters -afford more scope for conjecture than research, as the earlier periods -of Indian history are deeply involved in darkness and fable. We were, -however, informed by a learned aide-de-camp of the commander-in-chief, -that Alexander the Great had halted there for two days, and he even -indicated the position of the royal pavilion with as much confidence -as if he had been present on the occasion, which placed the question -beyond a doubt.</p> - -<p>The river was now a scene of much activity, the chief engineer being -engaged in collecting boats to form a bridge to Sukkur, which required -a numerous assemblage, the distance to Bukkur island being nearly 400 -yards, though beyond it the channel was very narrow.</p> - -<p>Ameer Roostum Khan, to whom this part of Scinde belonged, was residing -at Khyrpore, about fifteen miles from Rohree, and came into camp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> the -day after our arrival, to visit the commander-in-chief. The treaty -above mentioned was shown to him, and he laid it on his head in token -of obedience. The hostile disposition of his relatives at Hydrabad -being alluded to, he urged the improbability of their offering any -resistance, and entreated permission to negotiate with them.</p> - -<p>Sir Henry Fane replied that the day for any mediation had passed, and -broke up the Durbar, by inviting the Ameer to ride with him and see -the troops, which would march the following day towards Hydrabad, to -co-operate with Sir John Keane in enforcing the terms proposed.</p> - -<p>Meer Roostum, mounting his horse, accompanied Sir Henry along the line, -appearing far from at his ease whilst inspecting the display of force -which reduced him to a vassal, and was intended to operate against his -kinsmen.</p> - -<p>Arrangements were then made for the cession of Bukkur island fort, -to be garrisoned by a British force, which he assented to with great -reluctance, but it was then too late to raise objections, as the net -for Scinde was cast, and he had become entangled in its meshes. The -second and third day, however, passed without any intimation being -given that the fort was at our service, and the force intended for -Hydrabad having<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> been delayed in consequence, Sir Henry resolved -to wait no longer. On the evening of the 30th, a sepoy regiment, -accompanied by Sir Willoughby Cotton, embarked from Rohree, to occupy -Bukkur, and two guns were posted above the town to command the fort in -case of resistance.</p> - -<p>The squadron to which I belonged was that evening on picket near the -town, from whence we had a favourable position for observing the -operations of this memorable siege. The boats were off, and we now -fancied we saw the garrison training a large gun on the walls to bear -against the fleet. All stood in breathless expectation for the signal -which would, in all probability, kindle far and wide the devastating -flames of war.</p> - -<p>The troops now reached the island, and as yet no shot had been fired; -admittance was demanded, and no answer returned. Sir Willoughby ordered -a skin filled with powder to be attached to the gate and fired, and -whilst a party were in the act of obeying this order, the portals were -suddenly thrown open, and we observed the garrison, amounting perhaps -to <i>twenty</i> in number, not in the act of levelling their matchlocks at -the intruders, but more prudently sallying from a side postern, and -quietly dropping down the river towards Hydrabad.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> - -<p>The transition was so sudden and absurd, that a general burst of -laughter issued from the spectators at sight of the formidable -garrison, which was expected to make so daring a resistance.</p> - -<p>That evening the fort was occupied by a regiment of native infantry, -and before the sun went down we beheld the British flag slowly unfold -itself to the evening breeze, and float for the first time in authority -over the waters of the majestic Indus.</p> - -<p>Early next morning, the cavalry, artillery, and first brigade of -infantry, under Colonel Sale, commenced their march towards Hydrabad. -Accounts were rife in camp that a force of six or seven thousand -Beloochees were lying in ambush to attack us on the march, or fail on -our camp during the night, and therefore the cavalry threw out parties -in advance to feel for these hidden savages. For the first six miles, -we marched in a thick grove of bastard date trees, the road through -which was flanked by mud walls about six feet high—a glorious chance -for the Beloochee tirailleurs, which they unwisely neglected. Emerging -from this grove, we entered a well-cultivated, though woody country, -and plainly discovered the traces of a camp broken up that morning. The -force (whatever it might<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> have been) were no doubt retreating before us -upon Hydrabad.</p> - -<p>Accounts were this day received that Sir John Keane had been detained -some days at Jerrikh, two marches from Hydrabad, but had arrived at -Kotra, on the right bank of the Indus, and nearly opposite Hydrabad. -The following day, native reports reached us that the Beloochees had -floated across the Indus on rafts supported on Kedgeree pots,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> and -routed the British forces; but we unanimously concluded that the Ameers -were on far too bad terms with his excellency to think of crossing the -river and taking such <i>pot luck</i> with the British.</p> - -<p>Shah Soojah, who had reached Shikarpore, with his contingent, some days -before our arrival at Rohree, was now marching on the right bank of the -Indus towards Larkhana, which place (a city of the Hydrabad Ameers) he -occupied with little resistance.</p> - -<p>No baggage being allowed to precede our column on the line of march, -and the weather becoming exceedingly hot, we suffered severely from the -heat before our tents came up, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> they rarely did before mid-day, -and on a long march not till considerably later.</p> - -<p>The soil in this district is fertile and well cultivated, and -the population must be considerable, judging from the numerous -well-inhabited villages we passed, where the natives regarded us in -a friendly light, and brought abundance of supplies into camp. The -rule of the Ameers is far from popular amongst the Scindians; and -the tribes of marauding Beloochees, whom the Ameers confessed their -inability to restrain, are of course viewed with horror by the peaceful -agriculturists, who therefore hailed us in the light of deliverers. -Their intercourse with our camp-followers, who, having long worn the -collar, were no doubt willing to see it encircle strange necks also, -tended to encourage this amicable disposition.</p> - -<p>The fifth march from Rohree, we closed with the river near Noona -Goth, where the lower range of the Hala mountains were distinctly -seen, trending, apparently, in a direct line towards the Indus. These -mountains, the Scindians told us, were about forty miles distant. The -seventh march, we reached Kanjaree, a frontier town of the Hydrabad -district, where, in the course of the morning, a courier arrived from -Sir J. Keane, announcing the submission of the Hydrabad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> Ameers. They -had held out, it appeared, until the appearance of the British forces -on the bank of the river opposite the capital, when, after frequent -unsuccessful negotiations, a treaty was at length concluded by Colonel -Pottinger, with the modification that no British troops should be -quartered in Hydrabad. In signing this treaty, the Ameers declared they -were acting in opposition to the wishes of their soldiery, and that in -doing so they sealed irrevocably their own doom.</p> - -<p>Thus ended our chance of a golden harvest in Hydrabad, then known to be -one of the richest cities of the East; the policy which saved it for -a few years ended in annexing the lands to the British possessions, -and in consigning the rulers to captivity: but the merits of this -subject now form a matter of debate between two of the most gallant and -accomplished soldiers of the age, Sir C. Napier and Colonel Outram.</p> - -<p>We now turned our heads and thoughts towards Afghanistan with a -pleasanter prospect for the ensuing summer than that of passing it -under canvas in Scinde, which is notoriously one of the hottest and -most unhealthy parts of the world.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span><a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p> - -<p>We reached Rohree in a week, retracing the route by which we had -advanced, and found that the bridge of boats across the Indus had been -completed, and that the part of our force which had remained behind at -Rohree, commenced the transit on the 14th of February.</p> - -<p>Having halted three days, we crossed the river at sunrise in single -files, dismounted, and leading our horses, such being deemed the safest -method. The passage was effected without a single accident, even to the -baggage. The bridge was firmly constructed, and well moored, reflecting -credit on Captain Thompson, of the Bengal engineers, under whose -direction it had been formed. The stream near the left bank ran with -great velocity; but as we approached Bukkur Island, there was little -or none; beyond the fort, the bridge was scarcely a hundred yards in -length, and the current very weak. Four hundred and ninety yards were -mentioned, in general orders, as the distance bridged; but the portion -of the island we crossed must have been upwards of two hundred and -fifty yards in breadth.</p> - -<p>We now, for the first time, marched in rear of the army; and on our -arrival at Shikarpore, found the whole force, including Shah Soojah and -his new levies, encamped round the city.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> - -<p>Shikarpore stands in a barren and desolate-looking plain, which well -assorts with the white and mouldering mud walls surrounding the place. -This was the general depôt of supplies for the army; but in lieu of the -commodious and well-stocked shops we had expected to see, we found the -bazaar little superior to Bahawulpore, or even Rohree, except being -somewhat larger and more thronged, if possible, than that of the former -place.</p> - -<p>On entering the busy scene, the first object that strikes the visitor -is the pale, business-like money-changer, his anxious forehead bedaubed -with the white paint of his caste, peering over the pyramids of silver -and copper heaped ostentatiously before him. Opposite, wrangling -with half a dozen sepoys, in voices that might wake the dead, stands -the noisy, energetic cloth-merchant, extolling his wares amidst the -altercation with a fluency that would break the heart of a London Jew -clothesman.</p> - -<p>On each side, as you struggle onward, are squatted, in the peculiar -Oriental fashion, vendors of dried fruits, seeds, spices, opium, -<i>cum plurimis aliis</i>; but your good-natured Arab charger halts in -despair at the shop where yonder greasy cook is flourishing in his -long, bony hands a wooden<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> ladle, with which he bedaubs, in oily -costume, a hissing mass of kabobs, or kidneys, which are emitting a -savoury odour throughout that quarter of the bazaar, and engaging the -attention of an impenetrable cloud of half-famished-looking wretches -watching the inviting process. On extricating your embarrassed steed -from this difficulty, and moving up another bazaar, at right angles -to the former, the ears are saluted with the stunning and monotonous -clang proceeding from the anvils of armorers and blacksmiths, who -continue their noisy labour with an assiduity that, conjointly with -their hissing fires and diabolical countenances, give an unpleasant -presentiment of the world below.</p> - -<p>Speckle the scene with a number of savage-looking fellows in dingy -dresses, with matchlocks slung over their shoulders, a pair of -business-like pistols, and a greasy-handled knife stuck in their belt, -whilst a broad, iron-handled tolwar brings up the rear, and you will -complete the best picture I can afford of Shikarpore bazaar, with its -lazy, lounging soldiery.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Sir J. Keane's forces were about three thousand five -hundred men, and thirty guns.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> A common way of crossing rivers in the East, the pots -being bound together by a framework of bamboo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> The reserve force from Bombay, which occupied Scinde soon -after our departure, (amounting to about three thousand men,) bore -witness to its qualities in both respects.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span></p> - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p> - -<p class="center">ADVANCE FROM SHIKARPORE—PASSAGE THROUGH THE BOLAN PASS INTO -AFGHANISTAN—ADVANCE FROM QUETTA.</p> - - -<p>Sir John Keane's force was advancing by another route, nearer the foot -of the mountains of Beloochistan, towards the Bolan pass; and Sir -Willoughby Cotton, thinking it prudent to secure that defile with the -least possible delay, pushed on after one day's halt at Shikarpore. -The commissariat subsequently urged this rapid advance as the cause of -many difficulties, alleging that they had no time given them to make -arrangements for the conveyance of supplies.</p> - -<p>To enhance these difficulties, an order arrived from Sir John Keane, -directing a large number of camels to be furnished by the Bengal -commis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>sariat for the supply of the Bombay troops, who were almost at -a stand-still for want of carriage.<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> We had now scarcely a month's -supplies for the army, and were about to enter a country of which -little was known beyond native reports of its remarkable barrenness. -Mehrab Khan of Kebat, the most influential chief of this portion of -Beloochistan, had given the British agent assurances of furnishing the -army with supplies, and, relying on his assistance, the forces advanced -towards those sterile regions.</p> - -<p>Mr. M'Naghten (the envoy to Cabul) received intelligence of the -pass being occupied by the enemy, but he did not deem the source a -creditable one; however, military precautions were properly taken, -supposing the information correct.</p> - -<p>The first march from Shikarpore was partly through a low jungle, which -yielded, as we advanced, to a barren plain, that had lain apparently -under water, and been recently dried by the powerful effects of the -sun, which had cracked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> the surface with innumerable fissures. Not a -shrub nor a blade of grass was visible, as far as the eye could reach, -around this desert, which was bounded on our front by a lofty barrier -of mountains, at about a hundred miles' distance. We had become nearly -reconciled to barren views when they caused us no inconvenience beyond -unsightliness; but when, after a wearisome night-march of twenty-eight -miles over the desert, we reached our halting-place, where only two or -three wells of muddy and brackish water (and these nearly exhausted) -were found, matters began to look serious for man and quadrupeds.</p> - -<p>Orders were sent to the rear to stop the progress of the army, whilst -a wing of the 16th Lancers were detached, as a reconnoitring party, in -advance. We started in the evening, and marched, till the following -morning was well advanced, over precisely the same picturesque country, -as far as the imperfect light showed us, for about thirty miles, when -our eyes were rejoiced by the sight of a clear, rippling stream in the -desert, near whose banks patches of grass and small fields of young -wheat were growing, announcing the grateful intelligence of the desert -being passed. Those who have suffered the pangs of thirst in a hot -climate will estimate the feelings of the cavalcade<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> as they hastened -to avail themselves of the watery blessing.</p> - -<p>Over the blighted waste we had crossed, (the Putt,) the deadly simoom -occasionally blows in the hot season. Fortunately for us, we made the -transit when the climate was moderate; but four months afterwards, two -melancholy tragedies occurred to detachments marching to join the army -in Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>A portion of a native infantry regiment, escorting treasure from -Shikarpore, were passing the desert in the night, when they mistook the -way, and wandered the greater part of the next day in search of the -track without meeting with any water to moisten their parched throats. -One after another, they dropped, until two officers and twenty-one -sepoys were lost. The remainder, many of them delirious, found the -track and a stream of water in the evening.</p> - -<p>The second catastrophe occurred to an officer of her Majesty's 17th -Regiment, who with a Serjeant and twelve men was sent to recover a gun -which had stuck in the sand. The difficulty was greater than had been -anticipated, and they were detained till mid-day, by which time the -officer and eight men had fallen victims to the sun, and died raving -mad. The serjeant and four men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> returned, debilitated for life, to -report the success of the expedition.</p> - -<p>The forces gradually closed to the front on receiving the report of the -reconnoitring party.</p> - -<p>Several marauding Beloochees, who had been hovering near us, -committed a most impudent depredation here on some camels, which they -carried off in broad daylight. General Thackwell, who was one of the -sufferers, ordered a squadron in pursuit. Away we went, in full cry, -at a hand-gallop, across some ten miles of country, mostly rocky, -and intersected by numerous ravines; here and there, the steep and -dangerous chasms were so artfully hid that it required a keen eye to -avoid them. At length, we came to a halt, no Beloochees in sight, and -our list of casualties great: three horses lame, and ten horses and -men missing, who had been deposited in the cavities by the way. We -now scoured the country in every direction, but found no suspicious -characters, except in a small village, where the inhabitants forthwith -protested vehemently that they were exceedingly honest people, which, -of course, led us to suppose the contrary. It was now getting dark; -and having no further evidence against the villagers beyond their own -professions, we aban<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>doned the pursuit, and reached camp soon after -nightfall.</p> - -<p>We resumed our march towards the mountains through a better country; -water was abundant, and occasionally a little grass was procurable for -the horses, who were beginning to look much jaded.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 10th of March, we reached Dadur, which is close -to the foot of a continuous chain of barren, rocky hills, and four -miles from the gorge of the Bolan Pass. At this place, hopes were -entertained that an abundance of supplies would be awaiting. Alas! -there were none—the commissariat were informed that the force had not -been expected so soon, (a fortunate excuse,) and that consequently -little was to be procured.</p> - -<p>The melancholy truth transpired: there was absolutely not one day's -provision for the army, and we were led to infer a similar fate at -the places upon which we were about to march. The consequence was, -an immediate reduction to half rations for man and beast; and Sir -Willoughby saw that he had now no alternative but to push on through -the mountain-pass, and take the chance of what might be found on the -other side.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> - -<p>Major Cureton, of the 16th Lancers, who had been detached with -a squadron of native cavalry, and a wing of a sepoy regiment of -infantry, reported that no enemy was to be seen, but that forage was -nearly equally scarce the first three marches in the Pass. The Bengal -column being assembled at Dadur, orders were issued to advance, the -cavalry-brigade being now preceded by the first brigade of infantry -under Colonel Sale.</p> - -<p>At daybreak, we reached the gorge of the Pass, which is wide enough -to admit a regiment of cavalry in line. The road is level, but rocky; -and through the centre runs a clear stream, with an abundance of long, -coarse grass, nearly resembling dried flags, on its banks. The hills, -without a sign of vegetation on them, rise abruptly on each side, at -first, five or six hundred feet, but gradually increase in elevation -as you advance. Our first day's march continued to follow the course -of the mountain stream, on whose banks we encamped, surrounded by -desolate and rocky hills. The camels had no food but the reedy grass, -which contained little nutriment; but for our horses we had provided -better, by carrying on from Dadur two days' supply of green forage. In -the night, an alarm was given that the Beloochees had come<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> down from -the hills, and carried off some camels. As I happened to be on picket, -a detail of my party went in pursuit, but no vestige of the robbers was -found, and the clouds, which had long been lowering, now gave us such -a sprinkling, that it was impossible to see twenty yards off, so the -pursuit was abandoned.</p> - -<p>In consequence of the tents being saturated with rain in the night, -our march was deferred till mid-day, to give them a chance of being -dried, for a wet tent and a bad road soon render camels unserviceable. -We continued to march, henceforth, at mid-day, the weather being cool; -and although a strong guard accompanied the baggage, the Beloochees -managed to pounce upon some daily, plundering the camels and murdering -our camp-followers. The infantry had frequent skirmishes with these -marauders, but rarely succeeded in capturing any, so nimbly did the -scoundrels mount the craggy sides of the mountains with their plunder -and conceal themselves in ravines and caverns, which could only be -approached at great disadvantage by the assailants.</p> - -<p>The second march, we could scarcely move three abreast in many places, -owing to the narrowness of the passage, (a chasm through a rocky -mountain,) along which dashed a torrent,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> not deep, but extremely -rapid. The sharp stones in its bed lacerated the horses' feet a -good deal, and took rather severe effect on our bare-legged native -followers. A man and horse belonging to the rear-guard of the 16th -Lancers were lost on this march, but how the former lost his life is -uncertain—he dropped behind his comrades on the line of march, and was -never again seen alive.</p> - -<p>Our three next marches were through a plain, environed by an -amphitheatre of distant and lofty hills; but the road was rough, nor -was there any appearance of vegetation to cheer the miserable cattle. -The camels dropped daily on the route in great numbers; and many a -tent, camel-trunk, and wine-chest, fell into the hands of our ruthless -enemies the Beloochees, who doubtless celebrated several midnight -orgies with our lamented luxuries.<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></p> - -<p>Three seers of grain (6 lbs.) per horse, and no grass, had reduced our -steeds to mere apparitions, Scholastikos that stumbled mechanically -onwards, having almost reached the valuable habit of living on nothing. -The result was nearly the same as that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> which attended the horse of the -Σχολαστικος, in the Greek fable, whose animal had learned to -live upon nothing, but died shortly after trying the experiment.</p> - -<p>Having ascended to a considerable height, the climate was fine, and we -experienced no inconvenience from the sun; but so dreary and oppressive -to the spirits were these bleak and craggy mountains that frowned over -us, and so jaded were man and beast, that it was with feelings of great -relief in anticipation that we approached the termination of the dismal -Bolan defile.</p> - -<p>The most formidable position throughout the pass was certainly that -which we reached just previously to quitting the above-named range of -mountains. Having marched at mid-day, and ascended rapidly for about -seven miles, we arrived at the passage I allude to, which was about -twelve yards in width, over each side of which the high craggy hills -beetled in irregular and threatening shapes. For a distance of about -two miles we pursued the sinuous passage through this chasm,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> -looking upwards in amazement to find so formidable a succession of -natural fortresses unoccupied, from whence a resolute body<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> of troops -might have effectually checked our progress. A short distance beyond -its gorge, we descended into an extensive plain, covered with a small -aromatic plant resembling wild thyme, on which our cattle fed with -avidity, and no wonder, for from recent appearances they must have -conjectured that the earth had ceased to vegetate. Here, we expected -to encamp; but water was found to be so scarce that the cavalry were -ordered to proceed. We marched along the foot of a dark range of -hills, from which the numerous lights glimmering through the darkness -announced our old friends the Beloochees on the alert. About midnight, -after a tedious march of thirty miles, we arrived at Sir-i-ab, which -is called the outlet of the pass, although even here we lay in a -valley flanked by lofty hills, whose summits were covered with snow. -Of course, no tents or provisions arrived that night, but we were all -too fatigued to grumble properly, and a cloak and saddle soon proved -themselves effectually soothing.</p> - -<p>After a halt of three days, the principal part of the force advanced -to Quetta, a small fortified town, ten miles from Sir-i-ab, and about -three from the hills on either side.</p> - -<p>The plain was covered with the same scented plant we had seen before. -Mint, tulips, hya<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>cinths, and a great variety of wild flowers, -enlivened the face of the soil.</p> - -<p>Near the foot of the hills were several villages, mostly deserted, and -groves of apple, pear, apricot, and plum trees, the luxuriant foliage -and blossoms of which reminded us of the gardens of our beloved native -country. The inhabitants of Quetta and its vicinity were rather shy at -first, but finding we did not plunder them, they concluded we must be a -set of fools, and resolved to profit by the opportunity.</p> - -<p>Small quantities of grain, fruit, and lucerne were brought into our -camp and sold at exorbitant prices; however, after the experiments -which had been tried on our cattle and horses, we were only too happy -to try and prolong their lives at any cost. Here the startling truth -soon became known, that Mehrab Khan had formed no depôt of grain for -the army. Sir Alexander Burnes, with Lieut. Pattinson and a few local -horse, set out for Mehrab's residence, about eighty miles distant, in -the hopes of inducing that treacherous chief to assist in procuring -supplies; but this resource was now known to be almost desperate. In -the meantime, foraging parties of cavalry ranged the country daily to -procure fodder in the villages and amongst the fields.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span></p> - -<p>Fortunately for us, a fine breed of sheep, known as the Dhoomba,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> -abounded here, and afforded no mean exchange for the tough and muscular -flesh of such animals as had been brought from Bengal, and had -walked into incredible condition, insomuch that they were now better -calculated for supplying the artillery with traces than the soldiers -with food.</p> - -<p>Since entering Afghanistan, we remarked a material improvement in the -dimensions and looks of the inhabitants, compared to the natives of the -other side of the Bolan mountains. Their dress was mostly composed of -sheepskins, camels'-hair, and other warm materials, requisite from the -coldness of the climate, even at this season: the thermometer stood -about freezing-point at daybreak; but Quetta is table land, nearly six -thousand feet above the sea.</p> - -<p>Women, except the old or very young, were nowhere to be seen, so -prevalent were their unjust suspicions of our behaviour.</p> - -<p>Our diet was now one that should have gladdened the heart of the -doctors, (of course I speak only of military ones,) being confined to -bread, mutton, and water; for those who had been fortu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>nate enough to -get wines and other luxuries as far as the Bolan pass, had almost all -been obliged to drop them ere they quitted that gloomy defile, to carry -absolute requisites, such as a tent and clothes; and fortunate were -they who even accomplished that object throughout the campaign.</p> - -<p>As there were few regiments able to keep up a mess, an application -was made by the officers to be allowed to draw the same rations as -were issued to the soldiers. This was refused; but subsequently we -were allowed to draw on the commissariat for one bottle each week of a -fiery, unwholesome spirit, made in India, and called arrack.</p> - -<p>The audacious attacks made upon our people and cattle by the Kaukers, -a tribe of hill-bandits, made it hazardous for any one to stray beyond -the outposts. Every night some unfortunate camp followers, returning -from seeking grass or tending cattle, were murdered, and usually -mutilated in a wanton and barbarous manner.</p> - -<p>Before leaving Quetta, an opportunity occurred for a small retaliation -on the savages.</p> - -<p>An alarm having been given early in the day that a party of Kaukers -were hovering near the outposts, Lieut. Yule, of the 16th Lancers, who -was on picket with a party of his regiment, turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> out in pursuit. -Within two miles of camp, he perceived a party of about thirty Kaukers, -armed with swords and matchlocks, retiring towards the hills on foot; -when pursued at speed, they fired and wounded one of the Lancers, and -separating, some escaped to the hills, whilst others threw themselves -into a small mud fort, whence they fired on the cavalry party, but -without effect. Yule, having dismounted his men, scaled the fort, -killed seven inside, and took one prisoner, mortally wounded, whom Sir -J. Keane (who had just arrived in camp, and assumed command of the -army) immediately ordered to be hanged. The next evening ten more who -had been taken prisoners were also hanged on trees near Quetta.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding this salutary example, a daring attack was made -immediately afterwards on our cattle, by two or three hundred of the -same tribe. At mid-day they issued from the mountains, cut down several -surwans,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> and carried off a number of camels; but a wing of an -infantry regiment and a squadron of cavalry coming up, the marauders -retired, driving their booty to the hills, which were so precipitous, -that many of the camels were recovered, being abandoned by the Kaukers -in their retreat amongst their native crags.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> - -<p>Sir Alexander Burnes having reached Mehrab Khan's residence, now sent -intimation that no assistance could be expected from that chief, who, -so far from procuring grain for the army, had instigated the tribes -to annoy us in every way, and to conceal or carry away the produce of -the country. Time could not now be wasted in punishing Mehrab for his -duplicity, but a day of severe retribution awaited him on the return of -the Bombay division of the army from Caubul.</p> - -<p>Our position was now far from comfortable. If the army advanced, and -all supplies were removed out of our way by the natives, starvation and -the loss of all our cattle appeared the probable result. And in case -of a retreat through the Bolan pass, every crag would, of course, have -held an enemy to oppose such invaders. Independently of this, the moral -effect of a retreat at the commencement of a campaign would have been -in the last degree disastrous; yet such an alternative was advocated by -many officers on whose shoulders the main responsibility did not rest. -Sir John Keane could not but see that entering the Bolan pass was the -passage of the Rubicon, and orders were issued for the army to advance -towards Kandahar on the morning of the 7th of April: the men were -reduced to an allowance of one pound of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> flour, and non-combatants to -half a pound per diem; meat and spirits were issued as usual.</p> - -<p>No grain was in store for the cavalry, but the horse artillery were -allotted rations of three seers a horse daily, without which the guns -could never have been drawn. The cavalry troop horses subsisted almost -entirely on green wheat, collected by foraging parties. The officers -were occasionally able to purchase small quantities of barley, or -Indian corn, for their chargers, by paying an exorbitant sum to an -Afghan extortioner.</p> - -<p>On the morning we left Quetta, fifty horses of the cavalry brigade were -shot, in the lines, being too weak to carry their load. This melancholy -process of slaughtering horses was repeated daily, before or on the -march.</p> - -<p>The first morning, on leaving Quetta, we descended, through a steep -and rocky pass, into an extensive valley. A few scattered villages -were seen, whose inhabitants had betaken themselves to the hills, -whence they sallied occasionally to commit atrocities on any stragglers -from the lines in retaliation for the damages committed by the camp -followers on their habitations, and by our horses on their corn fields.</p> - -<p>It was carefully circulated amongst the natives who came near us, -that grain and all other supplies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> would be paid for, and also that -a reimbursement would be made for damages done to their property. It -was further hinted to them that we were friends (not enemies) who were -bringing a virtuous monarch to rule their country; but this they were -unable to comprehend.</p> - -<p>As we advanced, however, the same system prevailed with the -inhabitants, and not a soul was to be seen in the villages or on the -line of march, except when levelling a matchlock from some almost -inaccessible crag. Our foraging parties occasionally found young wheat -fields, which were demolished in a few minutes; but had it not been -for that inestimable little aromatic shrub, which grew in the most -hopeless solitudes, it would have been impossible for us to proceed, as -it afforded almost the only food for the camels and beasts of burden, -as well as fuel for the army, which it would have been a difficulty -to dispense with, man having been essentially a cooking animal from -the days of Prometheus, before whose well authenticated exploits it is -difficult to say how mortals fared.</p> - -<p>Having crossed a succession of rocky mountains and barren valleys, the -fourth march from Quetta brought us to the Pisheen valley, which is -said to be the best cultivated part of lower Afghanistan,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> which it -might well be without exhibiting much fertility.</p> - -<p>The valley is very extensive, and appeared, as we advanced into it, to -be well inhabited. The corn and barley fields were rich and numerous. -The natives of Pisheen had not deserted their homes, and flocked to -our camp, bringing camels, horses, bullocks, sheep, and grain for -sale, but all at the same exorbitant rate which had been exacted at -Quetta. The better class of inhabitants, terming themselves Synds, or -descendants of the Prophet, (the prolific Mahomet,) were well attired, -and certainly the finest men I have seen in the East. I was much taken -with a richly-mounted cimeter worn by a noble-looking Afghan, and -endeavoured to tempt his cupidity by offering in exchange a pair of -English pistols liberally bedizened with silver ornaments, money being -out of the question, as that article was more than usually scarce, -and more than usually necessary, in those days of famine: but though -the pistols took his fancy much, they still did not succeed, and he -returned them, saying, "It would be unjust to take these weapons which -you will soon stand in need of, for the Ameers of Kandahar will meet -you in the field before you have approached much nearer their city." -"We shall be happy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> to see them," I replied, "and after the rencontre, -cimeters will be cheap and plentiful in the British camp."</p> - -<p>The Synd had some authority for his assertion, as that day intelligence -was received that the Kandahar chiefs were concerting measures to -oppose our advance.</p> - -<p>Kandahar was under the control of three princes, Kohun Dil, Raheem Dil, -and Mehn Dil, Khans, brothers of Dost Mahomed, but never on amicable -terms with the Caubul monarch.</p> - -<p>The authority of the Kandahar chiefs had been long unpopular; but -of late their oppressive rule had rendered them more odious, as the -exactions on the inhabitants had been increased in order to levy an -army to oppose the British invasion.</p> - -<p>The northern side of the Pisheen valley is crossed by a range of -mountains called the Kojuck, a rugged pass leading to Kandahar. -Brigadier Arnold rode forward in the evening to reconnoitre this -defile, and, on reaching its gorge, found the heights occupied by a -party of horsemen, who fired upon him; but a small party of sappers -ascended and dislodged them. A spy was also observed lurking near camp -at night, and was shot by a sentry of the 13th Light Infantry.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p> - -<p>The 1st brigade of infantry led the way through the Kojuck pass, and -were followed next morning by the Cavalry Brigade, who started two -hours before daybreak. On entering the pass, about five miles from -camp, we found it completely blocked by the camels of the preceding -brigade. Having halted for about three hours, until these obstacles -were removed, we commenced the ascent—the dragoons dismounting and -leading their horses, whilst a party was detached from each squadron to -assist in dragging the guns of the Horse Artillery.</p> - -<p>The dry bed of a torrent, winding round the foot of a precipitous -mountain, was the course by which we commenced the ascent. Having -followed this track a few hundred yards, we struck off on a road which -our sappers had cut on the side of the mountain, and up which the guns -were drawn with considerable labour. We were occupied a great part of -the day in surmounting this steep and rough ascent, casting into the -ravine beneath the dead bodies of men, camels, and bullocks, who had -been murdered the night before by our restless old friends the Kaukers.</p> - -<p>By four o'clock in the afternoon, the cavalry and artillery reached -the summit of the pass. From this elevated position we looked down on -a barren, extensive plain, on the edge of which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> the snowy tents of -the 1st brigade formed the only interesting object, as they intimated -a termination of our labours for the day. A fine mountain breeze was -whistling over the heights and overcame the sun's influence.</p> - -<p>We were astonished that the Kandahar chiefs had not occupied this -defile, which had taken us much labour to surmount even with the -indispensable aid of the sappers, and unmolested by the enemy.</p> - -<p>With the aid of our glasses, we discerned a few spies or marauders -(probably both) among the rocky peaks, watching our proceedings, but -keeping out of musket-shot from the native infantry pickets, which -crowned the neighbouring heights.</p> - -<p>Our descent of the Kojuck was even more precipitous than the ascent, -and many a horse and camel ended his weary career on this precipice -during the night.</p> - -<p>When we bivouacked at sunset, the agreeable intelligence was made -known of no water having yet been discovered, and of course no food -was procurable, the commissariat stores being far behind. The soldiers -stood the want of food for twenty-four hours of hard labour without a -murmur; but when they heard no water was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> procurable, they gave vent -to many a hearty malediction on these inhospitable regions. Several -started off to the hills with waterskins on their backs, and returned -after a long search, the greater part unsuccessful, but some few with a -little filthy mud and water, which was swallowed with an avidity that -extreme thirst only could produce.</p> - -<p>As very few tents had made their appearance, and the night was wearing -apace, we laid ourselves on the least rocky piece of ground that we -could select in the dark, and rested till three in the morning, when -the musical invitation of the trumpet called us again to the saddle, -and, after a march of eighteen miles across the desert plain, and under -a sun which, in these lower regions, did not spare us, we came at -length to a small pond of dirty water, where we halted.</p> - -<p>I threw myself down beside this inestimable puddle completely -exhausted; and my horse having taken a drink, which threatened rivalry -with Munchausen's notorious steed, followed my example; but our repose -was soon cruelly interrupted by a requisition for our services on -outlying picket, some two miles in advance. We both arose, stretching -and shaking ourselves into consciousness; my charger certainly yawned -widest,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> although I explained to him how much he had the best of it, as -no dread of a court-martial need await him for sleeping on his post.</p> - -<p>My tents and servants did not arrive till late next evening, having -been absent three days without leave, and leaving me to luxuriate -during that time in the same clothing, and on a loaf of tolerably -hard and stale ammunition bread, about the <i>weight</i>, size, and -<i>consistency</i>, of a twelve-pound shot.</p> - -<p>We had been compelled to halt here, to enable the rear-guard to come -up, who had been frequently fired on by the Kaukers; but no casualties -occurred, which does not say much for our enemies as marksmen, though -the long rifle, termed a "jezzail," which they use with a forked rest, -carries a great distance, and with tolerable accuracy, when properly -handled.</p> - -<p>Some camels and servants belonging to the rear-brigades were shot in -the transit of the Kojuck Pass, and many of the officers' and soldiers' -tents and baggage were plundered; but these unaccountable mountain -warriors almost invariably allowed the cavalry to pass unscathed -through defiles, where they would have been almost helpless if attacked.</p> - -<p>Amongst other troubles and privations, we had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> now daily to reckon the -badness and scarcity of water. The wells being dug in ground whose -surface was white with saltpetre,<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> we found the water partook so -strongly of this mineral, that it was not only nauseous to the taste, -but affected man and beast with a diarrhœa, which, combined with -the fatigues and exposure to which all had been subjected, reduced the -greater part to a debilitated condition.</p> - -<p>As we had descended a good deal since leaving Quetta, the heat of the -sun daily increased; and although we marched every morning long before -daybreak, the roads were so bad and our cattle so weak from want of -sustenance, that we had generally to pass the noon-day unsheltered.</p> - -<p>On the 23rd of April, we had, according to the most prevalent -conjectures, arrived within about fifty miles of Kandahar, and met no -enemy. Having marched about twelve miles in the morning, we reached -our appointed ground for halting about nine <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, when some -assistants, in the quartermaster-general's department, reported to -the brigadier of the cavalry that the water in camp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span><a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> would barely -suffice for a brigade of infantry. We were accordingly ordered to -remount, and proceed towards a river, which was supposed to be some ten -miles' distant. Few who were present will ever forget that dreadful -march. The reflection of the sun from the burning dust and barren hills -was so dazzling, that many who underwent it have never recovered their -strength of sight. We had marched about ten miles, when the halt was -sounded. It was mid-day; about twenty men of the leading regiment held -together, the remainder of the cavalry-brigade were straggling over -four or five miles of country in the rear; some were urging their jaded -beasts with the spur, some leading them on foot, and others driving -their chargers before them at the point of the lance or sword. But far -the hottest thing I beheld that day, was the talented Colonel Ninny, -purple with heat and anger, and seeking an object to vent it upon.</p> - -<p>"Where the devil is your squadron, sir?" was demanded, in a voice of -thunder, of a ponderous captain, with a face like a salamander, and a -corporation like a hogshead.</p> - -<p>"Four miles behind, sir, at least," replied the hogshead, proud of -having got so far along the road, (as well he might be.)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p> - -<p>"How dare you, sir, give me such an answer, and leave your squadron -behind?" cried the enraged genius.</p> - -<p>Poor hogshead, frothing with excitement, turned round in search of -relief, and lighting on the officer in charge of his troop, poured -forth the full tide of his indignation on him for not bringing the -stragglers to the front.</p> - -<p>"And pray, sir, where is my troop?"</p> - -<p>"Here are the serjeant-major and two privates; the remainder vary from -four to five miles in the rear; and as I could not carry them, they are -left behind," replied the troop-leader.</p> - -<p>"There is no excuse," cried Ninny.</p> - -<p>"But, sir——"</p> - -<p>"Hold your tongue, and join your troop."</p> - -<p>This was conclusive, and broke up the agreeable interview.</p> - -<p>When the sun had begun to decline upon the scene of suffering he had -caused that day, the river was descried from the brow of a sandy knoll, -winding its shining path through the sterile soil. Man and beast rushed -in uncontrollable confusion to the waters, and quenched the fiery -thirst under which both had suffered severely.</p> - -<p>Our baggage did not arrive in camp till about midnight; and so severe -had been the heat, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> almost every dog belonging to the officers of -the brigade either dropped dead on the road, or was long in recovering -the effects of the cruel experiment. Many men were much broken down, -and one or two in the hospital doolies died on the road.</p> - -<p>The cavalry-brigade alone having advanced, and intimation having -been received that the Kandahar chiefs, with three or four thousand -cavalry, had left the city to attack us, General Thackwell considered -it probable that they would attempt a surprise that night, as their -spies would probably have time to inform them of our forced march. -Accordingly, pickets, consisting of about one half of our force, were -posted to protect the remainder, and sentries, videttes, and patrols, -with loaded pistols and carbines, spent the evening of that merciless -day in watching for any approaching party. Our vigilance was all in -vain: the Kandahar chiefs did not deserve the compliment we paid them; -and we lay on watch all night, undisturbed by any sound more warlike -than the complaint of a camel, or the bray of a donkey.</p> - -<p>The next day, I was sent with a party of four men to reconnoitre some -hills about three miles distant, on the opposite bank of the river, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> finding many deep ravines in the way, I left my party behind, -and fording the stream, ascended the heights, where the sand was so -deep, that my charger sank up to his knees at every step. I was about -half way up the hill, when an Afghan, armed to the teeth with tolwar, -matchlock, and pistols, started suddenly from a cavern behind a rock, -a few paces above me. I drew a pistol from my holsters, and levelling -it at him, recommended him to surrender. He stood a few seconds, -apparently irresolute; then darted behind the rock, which was close -beside, and out of my sight. I spurred forwards through the sand to -meet my friend on the opposite side; but he had ascended by a narrow -ravine, and in a few seconds I caught sight of him among some crags, -about fifty yards above me, and in full retreat.</p> - -<p>I pursued again, but in vain; for the mountain, which had now become -rocky, presented obstacles every ten yards; and when I reached the -summit, I caught a glimpse of three or four mountaineers a few hundred -yards from me, stealing round the mountain, apparently with the -intention of intercepting my retreat. No signs of a camp or any body -of men were to be seen in the plain, as far as my glass enabled me to -discern; I therefore descended the mountain on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> opposite side from -which I had ascended, perceiving that my <i>longue</i> carabine attendants -were prepared for a shot, which I preferred making a difficult one.</p> - -<p>Having reached the foot of the mountain, I stirred my Arab's mettle -across the plain, receiving three or four salutes from my polite -acquaintances above, some of which whistled as if they had been well -directed.</p> - -<p>Having struggled through a quicksand, which lay between me and the -bank, I recrossed the river, and joined my party on the other side.</p> - -<p>I have little doubt that the men I encountered on the hills were -spies from the Kandahar army. The matchlock of the Afghan I came upon -unawares, must have been unloaded, or he would certainly have tried -to prevent my ever reporting our interview. I might easily have sent -a pistol-ball through him, for he was not ten paces from me; but it -looked so much like murder that I could not draw the trigger.</p> - -<p>Marching from hence by the banks of the river, we reached an inhabited -village, in which a little grain was procured for our famished horses. -News arrived in the course of the day that the Kandahar chiefs had -given up all thoughts of opposing us, and retreated towards Herat, -leaving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> the field open to Shah Soojah. That illustrious monarch -preceded us next day to Kandahar, where, from the confused salute -we heard in the evening of cannon, matchlocks, and various noisy -instruments, we conjectured he had been received with tumultuous joy. -Public exultation is a cheap commodity at all times, but never less -valuable than when inspired by personal fear; and the citizens of -Kandahar were actuated, I think, by interested motives towards their -new monarch. History assigns no cause he had ever given to render -himself popular.</p> - -<p>The defection of Hadji Khan (chief of the Kaukers) was the cause -assigned by the Afghans for the Kandahar chieftains abandoning their -territories without a struggle; but as they could not, at that time, -muster above five or six thousand troops, it is probably as well for -them that they did not make the experiment.</p> - -<p>Some days before we arrived, they advanced a few marches, with -the intention of attempting to surprise us by a night attack; but -afterwards hearing that we were not all in the habit of going to sleep -at night, they retired to Kandahar, to deliberate on the subject, -and thereby saved the army of the Indus from utter and immediate -destruction.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p> - -<p>Hadji Khan, who had been long in correspondence with Burnes, and also -in the confidence of the Kandahar Ameers, was not a bad specimen of -a traitor. His whole life had been devoted to the profession, and he -had risen by it from an obscure station to considerable influence, -changing his politics with the times, and also his friends, when more -influential ones presented themselves. Believed and trusted by all, he -was faithful to none.</p> - -<p>This clever traitor now attached himself to Shah Soojah, being the -first chief of any influence who joined that monarch.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The cause of all this difficulty in procuring carriage -for the Bombay army, was a demand of the Scindian camel-owners for -payment from the time they were originally hired, which responsibility -Sir J. Keane would not undertake, and the camel-owners refused to -advance. The demand was no more than usual; and the results of this -economy were injurious, and might have been fatal.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> It was afterwards known that these tribes had been -instigated by Mehrab Khan of Kheiat to annoy us as much as possible -during our progress.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The rear columns were attacked here, but by a very small -body of Beloochees, who soon retired.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> The Dhoomba sheep is so named from Dhoom, the tail, which -grows to a great size with this species.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Surwans are camel-drivers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> The cold of Afghanistan may be partly owing to the great -quantity of saltpetre diffused over its surface.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> On a more accurate survey of the country, water enough -was found here to have sufficed the whole army.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p> - -<p class="center">KANDAHAR—MURDER OF LIEUT. INVERARITY—THE ARMY CONCENTRATED—ADVANCE -BY THE VALLEY OF THE TURNUK UPON GHUZNI.</p> - - -<p>On the morning of the 27th of April we entered the plain in which -Kandahar is situated, and encamped about two miles from the city. -This plain is well irrigated and tilled. Gardens enclosed by high mud -walls, and abounding with a great variety of fruit, are seen on almost -every side on approaching the city; and so level is the plain in its -vicinity, that nothing could be discerned but a long mud wall with -a few domes looking over it. The wall which encloses Kandahar in an -oblong figure, (whose perimeter exceeds three miles,) is flanked by -numerous circular bastions, and defended by an irregular dry ditch. -The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> curtain is about twenty feet in thickness at the base, and its -relief varies from thirty-five to forty feet, according to the depth -or shallowness of the ditch. In the parapet are numerous embrasures -and loopholes for matchlocks or jingals. I need scarcely annex to this -brief description that it is a place of no strength.</p> - -<p>The bazaar runs from the Shikarpore gate, by which we entered, across -the city, and is intersected at right angles by a similar bazaar from -east to west. At the point of intersection is a large dome, which -affords a respite from the sun, now becoming intolerably hot. The city -was thronged with inhabitants, in every variety of Eastern costume, -busily engaged in their various avocations; and notwithstanding their -material change of administration which took place yesterday, business -seemed to be going on as quietly as if nothing unusual had occurred. -From the estimate formed on that occasion, I should say the natives of -Kandahar were not very violent politicians.</p> - -<p>The women were clad cap-à-pie in a flowing white robe, (not always -particularly clean,) in which a piece of netting was inserted over the -eyes, to give them an opportunity of seeing what was passing; although -it precluded them from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> what is said, perhaps unjustly, to constitute -a source of satisfaction amongst northerly dames—being seen. A neat -green or scarlet leather slipper gave some relief to the ghostlike -appearance, and generally attracted observation to a pretty foot.</p> - -<p>The palace is situated in the southern quarter, and surrounded by -a high shot-proof wall, which was garnished by several old guns of -curious workmanship: a legend is attached to some of them, which is not -likely to be interesting to the world at large.</p> - -<p>An abundance of supplies were procured for the army in Kandahar, and -the surviving horses of the cavalry brigade (nearly three hundred had -died on the march) once more tasted grain: but the relief came too late -with many, whose hearts had been broken, and the greater portion never -recovered condition.</p> - -<p>About a fortnight after our arrival, the Bombay division joined us, -consisting of a wing of H.M. 4th Light Dragoons, H.M.'s 2nd and 17th -Regiments, two troops of Horse Artillery, 1st Native Cavalry, 19th -Native Infantry, and two companies of Foot Artillery; and now, for -the first time, the "Army of the Indus" were assembled, though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> many -hundred miles distant from the river in whose name they were baptized.</p> - -<p>The Bombay force had suffered less from famine than ourselves, having -marched a shorter distance, and been better supplied with grain: two -thousand camel loads were dispatched for their use from Shikarpore, to -the grief of the Bengal commissariat.</p> - -<p>In May, the hot winds set in with much virulence, and the heat in our -tents became very oppressive. In spite of every effort on our parts to -reduce the temperature by throwing horse-cloths over the canvas, and -keeping wet grass, day and night, against the doors, the thermometer -stood at 110° during the heat of the day, and did not fall more than -twelve degrees at night. The camp, which was now a long standing one, -became exceedingly offensive, owing to the number of dead cattle in the -vicinity, principally camels; and the swarms of flies that worried us, -enabled one to comprehend what that visitation must have amounted to -when sent to plague the Egyptians.</p> - -<p>The hospital began to fill rapidly. By the middle of May ours held -more than one fourth of the regiment to which I belonged. Jaundice, -dysentery, and fever were the prevalent complaints;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> the two latter, -far the most fatal. The 13th Light Infantry and Company's European -regiment were very severe sufferers, and were ultimately reduced from -sickness and death to a very weak state, especially the former, who -buried more than an average of a man a day during the two months we -halted at Kandahar. The causes of these complaints, independent of -heat, were the bad water drank on the march, and the dampness of the -soil in the neighbourhood of the city.</p> - -<p>The people of the country being apparently better disposed towards -us now than at first, the officers of the army strayed occasionally -some miles from camp on fishing and shooting excursions, until these -amusements were checked by a tragical event, which occurred on the -evening of the 28th of May.</p> - -<p>Two officers of the 16th Lancers, Lieuts. Wilmer and Inverarity, were -returning towards camp on a sporting excursion rather later in the -evening than usual. On ascending an eminence, about four miles from -camp, (having given their guns to the grooms to carry,) Inverarity -preceded his friend, and rode to the top of a rocky hillock, from -whence the camp fires were visible. When he reached this spot about -twenty Afghan savages rushed upon their unarmed victim, tore him from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> -his horse (as supposed), and inflicted several mortal wounds with -their cimiters. Wilmer, following, unconscious of what had occurred, -was suddenly attacked by some of the same gang. Providentially he had -a thick walking stick in his hand, which he raised in time to parry -the first blow made at his head, and, escaping from his assailants, -descended the hill, pursued by the assassins. These he soon distanced, -and reaching an outpost of irregular horse about a mile from the place, -returned with some of the party in search of the banditti. The cowardly -villains had absconded, leaving poor Inverarity covered with wounds, -but still alive. He spoke but a few words, faintly describing how he -had met with the disaster, and begged for some water, which, as soon -as it could be procured, he drank, and almost immediately afterwards -expired.</p> - -<p>In the dead of night the party arrived in camp with his corpse, so -gashed and disfigured, that it could scarcely be recognised by his -brother-officers, and the following day his remains were interred with -the usual military honours in front of the standard guard.</p> - -<p>The malice of his murderers rested not even in the grave, for some -months after we heard of a gang (who came from the direction of the -place<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> where he was murdered) attempting to dig up his body. Having -demolished the tomb, they were interrupted in their accursed project by -a party of native infantry quartered in Kandahar, and fled to the hills.</p> - -<p>Inverarity's remains were afterwards removed from the spot, and -interred in the city of Kandahar.</p> - -<p>The barbarians who, it is supposed, committed the deed, were -subsequently secured by the exertions of Major Mac Laren<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> -of the 16th Native Infantry, while storming a small fort near -Khelat-i-Ghilzie. Some articles, supposed to have belonged to -Inverarity, were found in their possession; but the punctilious judge -did not consider them legally identified, and the assassins were -liberated, about in sufficient time, it was conjectured, to fall in -with another officer, who was murdered between Kandahar and Caubul.</p> - -<p>Had the detection and punishment of the murderers been committed to -Shah Soojah (as he requested) there is every reason to suppose they -would not have escaped so easily, and the business would have afforded -his Majesty sincere pleasure.</p> - -<p>Rumours of Dost Mahomed's preparations for an obstinate resistance were -now reaching us<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> daily; but the envoy frequently expressed his firm -conviction that no opposition would be made. Sir John Keane differed -in opinion, and refused to leave the Bombay division behind, according -to Mr. Mac Naghten's suggestion, unless the envoy could guarantee that -Dost Mahomed would surrender.</p> - -<p>This was of course out of the question, and it was at length determined -that the whole force should advance, except a small garrison for -the city. The commissariat exerted themselves to complete their -arrangements for the march, and the approaching departure was joyfully -welcomed by the army.</p> - -<p>A Kafila, with grain from Shikarpore, arrived opportunely in camp -previous to our move, under the escort of two regiments and some local -horse, despatched from Kandahar to protect this caravan, as news had -been received that two chiefs of the powerful Ghilzie tribe were -preparing to pounce on the convoy.</p> - -<p>It was fortunate that this precaution had been taken; for it was -ascertained that a large body of the enemy had made preparations to -surprise these necessary supplies on the road, and the fidelity of the -merchant who brought up the caravan was somewhat doubted, until the -arrival<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> of the reinforcement put treachery out of his power.</p> - -<p>In the beginning of June, the force under Brigadier Sale, which had -been detached soon after our arrival in pursuit of the Kandahar chiefs, -returned. Those princes had fled to Girishk, a fortress about eighty -miles distant from Kandahar, and near the Helmund river, but abandoned -it on the approach of their pursuers, and fled towards Herat.</p> - -<p>Thus ended, in the most undignified manner, the authority of the three -Ameers, for the present. It is singular that in such extremities the -scheme of a reconciliation with their brother, Dost Mahomed, had not -been resorted to, for it would have been unquestionable policy in that -monarch to insure the re-establishment of the Kandahar chiefs to them -in their principality, in case of the united forces succeeding to repel -the British invasion.</p> - -<p>It is evident, however, that no such measures could have been -preconcerted to oppose our advance, from the non-occupation of the -Kojuck and Bolan passes. The Afghans, near Kandahar, informed us that -the chiefs distrusted their subjects, and perhaps with cause.</p> - -<p>Weak both in mind and authority, these chiefs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> hovered irresolutely -around their capital, but abandoned the power they had usurped when -danger accompanied its retention.</p> - -<p>On the 27th of June, our camp was struck, and the Cavalry division, -with the 1st Brigade of Infantry and head-quarters, preceded.</p> - -<p>Next day, came the second Brigade, Shah Soojah and his motley -procession, which swelled daily in numbers, with hordes of Afghans, who -came to join the Shah and tender their allegiance (as they affirmed), -but in reality, no doubt, to watch the progress of events: to remain -<i>faithful</i> in case of success, or plunder in case of a reverse.</p> - -<p>The Bombay division of Infantry, under Brigadier Willshire, brought up -the rear. One regiment of Bengal Native Infantry and the heavy guns -were left at Kandahar.</p> - -<p>Most of our officers were on the sick list, and on the remainder the -duty was severe, consisting principally of guards to protect the -baggage, and pickets. The outlying cavalry picket was ordered, by the -commander-in-chief, to take post four miles in advance, where, of -course, no baggage was allowed, nor even a groom (strictly speaking) to -hold your charger. This picket was posted at nightfall, with orders to -fall back on the main picket, in case of feeling an enemy. The main<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> -picket was usually posted about a mile from camp, consisting of a -squadron of cavalry, four companies of infantry, and two six-pounders, -from whence a chain of pickets communicated along the front and round -the flanks of the army, whence patrols from the rear-guards completed -the circuit.</p> - -<p>The third day's march brought us to the Turnuk river, which is a clear -and shallow mountain stream, running through a valley sown abundantly -with barley and Indian corn. The water was excellent, and supplies for -our cattle were daily procurable; but numbers continued to die, unable -to overcome the debility ensuing from previous overwork and starvation.</p> - -<p>The natives of the valley were peaceable agriculturists, who came -constantly into our camp, bringing for sale corn, eggs, fowls, and -fruit; but the mountains which flanked our march, at a short distance, -were amply stocked with marauders. The sickness under which the army -had long suffered now began to abate, or at least, to assume a less -virulent character; but the appearance of the sufferers was materially -altered. Those of previously stout and portly figures were seen walking -about in clothes once fitting closely, but now hanging down like empty -pudding-bags; and faces, whose rubicundity once emulated the richest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> -hues of Chateau Margaux, now wore a puckered-up, gamboge aspect, which -made sympathy no easy matter with those who were prone to laughter.</p> - -<p>Many who had never much flesh to spare, were reduced to varieties -of angular shapes, which might have been useful to a mathematician -when studiously inclined, on the line of march. Such had been the -devastating effects of dysentery and fever on most of the community.</p> - -<p>The zealous and able managers of the intelligence department had -prophesied that we should probably be seriously molested by the tenants -of a strong fort in the Ghilzie country, seven marches from Kandahar, -called Khelat-i-Ghilzie.</p> - -<p>A bribe had been sent to the two principal chiefs of the Ghilzies,<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> -accompanied by a letter from Shah Soojah, desiring their assistance. -The money was retained, and an insulting answer of defiance returned.</p> - -<p>On approaching Khelat-i-Ghilzie, the adjutant-general of cavalry was -sent, with a small escort, to reconnoitre the place.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span></p> - -<p>The brigadier commanding the advanced guard of two squadrons of -cavalry, two guns, and a small body of infantry, on approaching this -memorable place, espied two or three hundred well-armed Ghilzies on an -eminence not far from the road.</p> - -<p>Having minutely examined their position, the brigadier pronounced it to -be remarkably strong, and prudently resolved to await the arrival of -the main body of the army, previously to dislodging the party.</p> - -<p>Whilst revolving in his mind the most advisable method of attack, -unfortunately, the head of the column hove in sight, and the doubtless -brilliant result that might have ensued was precluded by the Ghilzies -taking to flight.</p> - -<p>It was considered fortunate that the enemy knew not their own strength, -or that a more rash officer had not been in command on the occasion, -who, in attempting to intercept the retreat of the Ghilzies, might have -incurred serious responsibility.</p> - -<p>Sir John Keane, on his arrival at the encamping ground, was so -satisfied with the arrangements, that he is reported even to have -instituted a comparison between the gallant colonel and the Duke of -Wellington, in his usual energetic and classical mode of expression.</p> - -<p>As we had ascended considerably since leaving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> Kandahar, and were -frequently on high tableland, the heat ceased to annoy us so severely -as during the three preceding months, and we considered we had overcome -by far our most formidable enemy in the relentless sun.</p> - -<p>Various and contradictory rumours continued to pour daily into camp. -At one time, it was said that Dost Mahomed, at the head of an army -of thirty thousand men, with eighty guns, had taken up a strong -position near Caubul; at another, that his chiefs and Kuzzilbaches -(Persian mercenaries) having deserted him, he had despaired of making -any effectual resistance, and fled towards the Hindoo Koosh. Lastly, -we were informed that he had detached two of his sons, with chosen -men from the army, to garrison the fortress of Ghuzni; but the same -evening, perhaps, merchants would travel through our camp, <i>en route</i> -for Kandahar, and declare they had left Ghuzni but a few days, and had -not seen a single soldier in the place! These reports, when compared -with the actual events, are more reconcilable than appears at a first -glance.</p> - -<p>Small parties continued to arrive daily, and tender their allegiance -to Shah Soojah; and we were authentically informed, that the two -before-mentioned Ghilzie chiefs, with about five or six<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> thousand -horse each, were moving daily on both flanks, parallel with our line -of march, and would neglect no opportunity to harass the army. Of the -truth of the latter part of the information, we entertained no doubt, -<i>provided</i> they could do it with impunity.</p> - -<p>About seventy miles from Ghuzni, we quitted the rich valley of the -Turnuk river, and crossed an extensive, well-cultivated plain, thickly -studded with small mud forts. The inhabitants of this part of the -country dare not dwell in open towns or villages, owing to the numerous -bands of marauders infesting the neighbouring mountains, who have no -mercy on the defenceless villages.</p> - -<p>Small, but luxuriant groves of fruit-trees, bending beneath their loads -of rosy-cheeked apples, speckled the plain, and formed a pleasing -resting-place for the eye, fatigued with the ceaseless range of barren -mountains skirting the valley.</p> - -<p>On the 20th of July, we reached a small place called Nance, about -twelve miles from Ghuzni; and as yet no authentic intelligence had been -received of Dost Mahomed's intentions or movements, nor of any steps -having been taken to interrupt our progress.</p> - -<p>Sir John Keane, however, received news at this place which induced him -to order the rear column<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to close up to us in the evening. The fort -was said to be garrisoned by a body of Dost Mahomed's troops; and Ufzul -Khan, his second son, was supposed to be near us with four thousand -cavalry. As it was probable that Ufzul Khan would effect a junction -with the Ghilzie chiefs, and attempt to surprise our camp during the -night, the whole army were drawn up in line on their standard guards -soon after sunset, and lay under arms during the night.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, nothing certain was known regarding these reports. Major -Garden, the quartermaster-general, had ridden to reconnoitre Ghuzni in -the evening, and perceived no signs of its being garrisoned.</p> - -<p>At daybreak, on the morning of the 21st, our line broke into three -columns, the cavalry on the right, the artillery in the centre, and the -infantry on the left, and in this order advanced over the plain, at the -extremity of which the fortress of Ghuzni is situated.</p> - -<p>As we approached, a nephew of Dost Mahomed came to tender his -submission to the Shah, and gave information of the fort being occupied -by Hyder Khan, a son of Dost Mahomed, with a garrison of three thousand -infantry and a few cavalry; but he expressed a suspicion that they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> -would evacuate the place. This individual complained of having been -ill-treated by his uncle; but there appeared little doubt that the -gentleman came into camp merely as a spy.</p> - -<p>Reports from the advanced parties continued to state that no garrison -was to be seen on the ramparts: however, we continued to advance in the -same order.</p> - -<p>When within about a mile of the walls, a smart fire of matchlocks -was suddenly opened on the advanced guard of infantry on our left, -from a small village, and from behind some garden walls. The column -immediately halted; the 16th Native Infantry were detached to clear the -village, in rear of which was a small redoubt, protected by the fire of -a bastion of the fort, on which the Afghans fell back.</p> - -<p>Two officers,<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> and several men of the 16th Native Infantry, were -wounded by the Afghans in the skirmish.</p> - -<p>The artillery now swept past us, and took up their position on an -elevated post in a village about four hundred yards distant from the -nearest bastion of the fort. At the same time the 4th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> Dragoons were -ordered to the rear to protect the baggage, which, it was supposed, was -likely to be attacked by a body of the enemy's cavalry, which had been -descried on the right, moving in that direction.</p> - -<p>The remainder of the cavalry-division were drawn up in close column of -squadrons, about three quarters of a mile from Ghuzni, and supplied -escorts to the reconnoitring parties.</p> - -<p>The garrison now opened their fire upon us, which was answered by our -artillery from the village, but the guns, which were only six-pounders, -were found to have little or no effect on the walls, in consequence of -which they were soon withdrawn, having lost two or three horses from -the enemy's fire. Sir John Keane, in his despatch, assigns as a reason -for this eccentric cannonade, a desire to unmask the enemy's batteries.</p> - -<p>About the same time the infantry were also withdrawn, and bivouacked in -rear of some gardens, enclosed by mud walls, and about a mile from the -fort.</p> - -<p>The cavalry entirely escaped his excellency's notice. Early in the -day, several troops had been detached with the different reconnoitring -officers; but now being of no further use for the present, we were left -standing to our horses' heads, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> meditating on what kind of service -we could be employed while the rest of the army were bivouacked.</p> - -<p>At length, the garrison, being unemployed for the present, pitied -our forlorn condition, and prepared to provide for our amusement. A -monstrous gun from the citadel, carrying a sixty-eight pound shot, -was seen to be trained with much assiduity, in our direction, and we -awaited in agreeable suspense the result of the process.</p> - -<p>Two little tents had been procured by some of the officers, and pitched -on the spot where we had dismounted. Some luxurious fellows had been -out on a foraging excursion amongst the baggage, and returned laden -with a supply of bread, fowl, cold meat, and milk. This collation was -being discussed, and a vote of thanks to the industrious foraging -party was in the act of passing, when a loud report from the citadel -interrupted them, followed by a load of iron hurtling over our heads, -and plunging amongst the mass of baggage and camp followers in rear. -This was immediately succeeded by another, better directed, which cut -the ropes of our neighbours' tent, wounded one of their servants, and -killed a trooper of Native Cavalry.</p> - -<p>I never saw two tents struck with such admir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>able alacrity as on this -occasion. I am sure I do not exaggerate when I say that in less than -two minutes the tents had disappeared, and the spy-glasses of the -inmates were directed at the walls to ascertain the cause of this -uncourteous interruption.</p> - -<p>The senior officer present now ordered the cavalry to mount, and we -retreated half a mile to the rear, through the midst of a mass of -baggage which our camp followers were hurrying off with incredible -despatch, perceiving the probability of their becoming a target for the -merciless Golundauze in the fort.</p> - -<p>Scarcely had we picketed our horses, when the trumpet called us again -to the saddle, and we changed position to the northern front of Ghuzni, -on the Caubul road, and about a mile from the nearest bastion. We -reached this ground about sunset; but the infantry, who passed by a -more circuitous route, round the other side of the fortress, did not -arrive in camp many of them till near midnight.</p> - -<p>An incessant fire of cannon, matchlocks, and jingals, was kept up -during the night on the troops whilst marching, and after their arrival -in camp; but the enemy lost a night's rest, and wasted their ammunition -to very small purpose.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> As they had done us very little injury in the -daytime, the night fire was not a subject of much apprehension; but -all Asiatics have much confidence in great noise and constant firing, -without taking pains about its direction and effect; it keeps up their -courage by diverting their thoughts.</p> - -<p>At daylight the following morning, from the intelligence received, and -the observations of reconnoitring parties, we were better enabled to -judge of the difficulties opposed.</p> - -<p>Ghuzni is situated in a plain, which it commands easily on every side -but the north, where a small range of hills run down to within one -hundred and fifty yards of the walls. It is built on a low extensive -mound, the foot of which is surrounded by a mud rampart, flanked by -numerous circular bastions. The curtain of this enceinte varied from -thirty-five to forty-five feet in height, and averaged perhaps twenty -in thickness, which rendered it shot-proof to our artillery, as our -heaviest guns had been left at Candahar to be sent as a present to -Prince Kamran of Herat!</p> - -<p>The rampart was defended by a deep wet ditch, over which permanent -bridges were built at the gates.</p> - -<p>The citadel stands on a rock on the central<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> and most elevated part of -the mound, commanding the whole of the town, and about two hundred and -fifty yards of the hills on the north, and is surrounded by a thick mud -rampart, defended by a fausse-braye. The soles of the embrasures and -loopholes in the parapet of the latter were not sufficiently depressed -to enfilade the approaches to the citadel.</p> - -<p>The gates were all blocked with masonry excepting that which leads to -Caubul, and this was built of massive wood, strengthened by iron clamps -and bars, and defended by the cross fire of two adjacent bastions.</p> - -<p>Hyder Khan, a son of Dost Mahomed, commanded the garrison, which -consisted of three thousand infantry and one thousand four hundred -cavalry: amongst the former were about one hundred artillerymen, who -had deserted or been reduced in the East India Company's artillery.</p> - -<p>The heights on one side of the plain were occupied by a body of about -three thousand cavalry, commanded by Ufzul Khan; and on the other, a -body of infidels, of similar strength, but infantry, were posted to -harass our left.</p> - -<p>It was also conjectured that the two Ghilzie chiefs who had been -hovering on our flanks on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> the line of march, had joined their forces -with those of Ufzul Khan; and these chiefs were reported to be in -command of eight or ten thousand horsemen.</p> - -<p>The news of Runjeet Singh's death (which occurred on the 27th of June, -1839) having set Dost Mahomed's mind at rest, regarding any serious -co-operation on the part of the Sikhs against him, he was now preparing -to move down with all the forces he could assemble, and attack us -whilst engaged with the siege of Ghuzni.</p> - -<p>His eldest son, Mahomed Akbar Khan, had been detached with about five -thousand men to the entrance of the Khyber pass, which Colonel Wade was -preparing to enter, in company with the Shah Zada Timoor, Shah Soojah's -son.</p> - -<p>Colonel Wade commanded a few companies of native infantry and some raw -levies, and was supported by a Sikh auxiliary brigade.</p> - -<p>Before Colonel Wade entered the Khyber Pass, the Afghan force under -Mahomed Akbar had been recalled by Dost Mahomed, under the urgent -circumstances then pressing upon him; and the Khyber was entrusted -to the defence of the wandering tribes of Khyberees who infest those -extensive ranges of mountains.</p> - -<p>Our own <i>effective</i> force now scarcely amounted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> to two thousand -eight hundred European cavalry, infantry, and artillery, and about -four thousand sepoys: so much had the army been reduced by sickness, -death, and the detachments left to garrison the places we had passed -through—viz., Bukkur, Shikarpore, Quetta, and Candahar.</p> - -<p>Exclusive of these, of course, were the Shah's troops, whose -contingent, in case of an action, would, it was conjectured, be fully -employed in watching the numerous Afghan rabble which flocked around -Shah Soojah. These had now swelled to a large amount by the daily -influx of armed horsemen, who were as likely to be spies and adherents -of Dost Mahomed, as friends of Shah Soojah.</p> - -<p>At the best, the bare suspicion of treachery from this armed host -rendered it necessary to keep a force on the watch, and the contingent -must have been used for that purpose in case of a general engagement.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 22nd of July, Sir John Keane and the engineers -were actively employed in reconnoitring the fortress.</p> - -<p>Captain Thompson, the chief engineer, having completed his -observations, and remarked that a communication was kept up by the -garrison with the exterior, through the Caubul gateway, gave it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> as -his opinion that apparently the most practicable means of assault -were presented by a coup-de-main, in lieu of a regular assault, (for -which we were not provided,) and suggested as a method to attain this -purpose, that the Caubul gate should be destroyed by bags of powder.</p> - -<p>Some officers were in favour of an immediate escalade, but as that -method would necessarily involve a greater loss, and might still remain -in reserve, in case of the failure of the former and more expeditious -method, Sir John Keane resolved on adopting Captain Thompson's -suggestion.</p> - -<p>During the morning of the 22nd, we were most of us endeavouring to make -amends for the two days and nights of almost unremitting vigilance -that had been exercised, when the shrill tones of the alarm trumpet -rang confusedly from many quarters of the camp, and caused us all to -start up and prepare for the saddle. A smart rattling fire of musketry, -interrupted by the occasional roar of cannon, was heard, apparently -near the foot of the hills, on our left flank, and a hurried report -ran along the lines, that Dost Mahomed, with his whole army, had come -suddenly upon us.</p> - -<p>We were now become too well used to our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> harness to take long in -preparing, and a very few minutes served to show us formed, on our -alarm posts.</p> - -<p>The Bengal cavalry brigade were immediately dispatched at a round pace -towards the scene of action. The ground we passed over was rough and -undulating, and in many places covered with crops of high standing -corn, which completely intercepted our view; but the nearer rattle of -musketry indicated we were not far from the field of strife.</p> - -<p>Having ridden over about two miles of country, of the above -description, we came upon an open and barren plain, which extended -to the foot of the hills, where we descried some of Shah Soojah's -contingent, accompanied by two or three guns, closely engaged with a -body of two or three thousand Afghans.</p> - -<p>On our approach, the Afghans commenced a retreat upon the hills, -pressed hard by the Shah's troops, who were unable, however, to bring -their guns far up the hill-side.</p> - -<p>The cavalry brigade were detached by wings of regiments to the flanks -and rear of the heights, in order to intercept the enemy, should the -infantry succeed in dislodging them.</p> - -<p>The Afghans having ascended to the summit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> of the hill, took up a hasty -order for battle, and awaited their enemies. A deep ravine skirted -the base of their position, and its crest was occupied by a party of -matchlock-men, thus enfilading the approach by the only practicable -ascent. The Shah's troops were not inclined to storm this strong -defensible position, but halted behind the ravine, and under cover of -rocks and broken ground endeavoured to drive the enemy from the heights -by musketry; but the distance between the skirmishing parties, to admit -of either fire being very galling, was much too considerable.</p> - -<p>We remained watching the skirmish taking place on the heights, in -expectation of seeing a reinforcement arrive from camp, which would -enable the infantry to dislodge their enemies, and force them into -collision with us; but the commander-in-chief refused the application -for reinforcements, being resolved to keep the infantry fresh for the -work which awaited them on the morrow, and Shah Soojah would not part -with any more of his guards. A body of cavalry, as a last resource, -endeavoured to mount the hill side, and take the Afghans in reverse, -but after ascending a few hundred yards, the rocks and ravines became -so numerous that the ascent was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> quite impracticable, and they -reluctantly descended under a harmless salute from the enemy on the -summit.</p> - -<p>At sunset, the forces were withdrawn to camp, having killed about sixty -Afghans, and taken fifty prisoners, with a loss of only a few wounded -on the side of the British.</p> - -<p>The prisoners being brought into the presence of Shah Soojah, declared -they were Ghazees, or Crusaders, bound by a religious vow to take -his head, and that the oath of the party would sooner or later be -accomplished, although they had not been successful in the present -attempt.</p> - -<p>"I will, at all events, secure your head now," replied the indignant -monarch; and beckoning to his executioner, (who was never far from his -master's side, knowing the Shah's predilection for the office,) the -speaker's head rapidly disappeared.</p> - -<p>The comrades of the decapitated being loth to part with this useful -article, showed signs of resistance, when the brave and zealous -attendants of his majesty rushed upon the unarmed prisoners, -unrestrained by word or gesture of their king, and massacred their -victims.</p> - -<p>One old man, it is said, escaped to tell his comrades in the mountains -the fate of the captives.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> And this act was perpetrated in the midst of -the first Christian army which had set foot in Afghanistan since the -creation of the world.</p> - -<p>Let it not be supposed that the suppression of the murder lay in the -power of the British authorities; there was not, I believe, one British -officer present, and the whole merit rests with Shah Soojah; but he was -viewed as a mere puppet in our hands, and on us, throughout Asia, will -rest the obloquy of this savage massacre. No doubt the Afghans have -done as bloody deeds, but it became, therefore, more incumbent to show -a better example.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> This gallant soldier fell at the battle of Sobraon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> In the subjugation of this country in 1840, this tribe of -Ghilzies were found the most obstinate and inveterate foes to British -influence. Khelat-i-Ghilzie was gallantly held by a native infantry -regiment (which now bears the name) against frequent attacks of the -Ghilzies during the insurrection.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Captain Graves and Lieutenant M'Mullen, 16th Native -Infantry.</p></div></div> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p> - -<p class="center">STORM AND CAPTURE OF GHUZNI—ADVANCE TO MEET DOST MAHOMED—HIS ARMY -DESERT HIM, AND HE FLIES TOWARDS THE HINDOO KOOSH.</p> - - -<p>The plan of operations against Ghuzni having now been arranged, general -orders directed the troops to move as quietly as possible from their -quarters to the allotted positions. About three in the morning the -artillery had occupied the heights near the Caubul gate of the fort, -and about three hundred yards from the ramparts. The infantry were -drawn up in columns of companies on the road beneath the hills, and to -the left rear of the artillery. The cavalry were posted round the fort -to intercept the retreat of the garrison and the advance of relief.</p> - -<p>The 16th Lancers were on the Caubul road, in the rear of the infantry, -as a diversion was ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>pected from the enemy's cavalry in the mountains, -in favour of the besieged.</p> - -<p>The morning was exceedingly dark, and all around quiet as death; for -the garrison, who had hitherto kept up an almost incessant cannonade, -seemed to think they had done enough, and were enjoying repose. We -began to imagine that they had used up their ammunition in the past -vigorous efforts to alarm us, and that the fort had been evacuated.</p> - -<p>This oppressive silence was interrupted by the word of command passing -down the ranks in a whisper; and the forlorn hope moved to their post -near the Caubul gate, to await the result of the engineers' experiment. -The bags of powder, amounting to three hundred pounds in weight, were -carried by the sappers, supported by a party of European volunteers; -and the engineer officers, who placed the powder at the gate, -distinctly heard the voices of the Afghan-guard conversing near the -gateway. The saucisson was laid, and fired by an officer of the Bengal -Engineers.</p> - -<p>Suddenly, a broad glare lit up the ramparts, and with a smothered, -crushing report, the Caubul gate was shattered into innumerable -fragments. In one moment, the face of nature seemed to have awoke in -uproar. The rushing and confusion<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> in the city, and on the ramparts, -was accompanied by a hasty and random fire from any gun which could -be manned, no matter where it was pointed. The whole city, aroused -instantaneously from repose, and yet too late, hurried in confused -masses to man the walls, ignorant of the disaster which had befallen -the gateway. Then burst from the hills the solemn, majestic roar of our -artillery; light flashed upon light in uninterrupted succession, and -the shell, sped on its mission of death, curved steadily through the -lurid atmosphere.</p> - -<p>The fort continued a random answer from its guns, and hung out lights -from the walls, to discover the locality of their assailants; but this -served to direct the fire of our artillery, and the walls were soon -cleared of their occupants. The wing of a Native Infantry regiment, -posted on the south-eastern front, drew a part of the besieged in that -direction, to repel this false attack.</p> - -<p>Under cover of the artillery fire, sweeping the parapets, Colonel -Dennie, leading four light companies from the 2nd, 13th, 17th, and -Company's European Regiment, advanced to storm the Caubul gate, closely -followed by Brigadier Sale, in command of the main body of the storming -party, consisting of the remainder of those four British regiments.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> - -<p>The enemy opened a smart fire of matchlocks upon the advance, and the -gateway was found much obstructed with rubbish and splintered beams -from the demolished framework. The postern, turning sharply to the -right, and leading to the interior of the place, induced an officer in -the passage to suppose it blocked up, in consequence of which, he took -upon himself to order a bugler to sound the retreat; but the advanced -party having penetrated to the interior, heard, or heeded not, the -recal.</p> - -<p>Overcoming every obstacle, the gallant Britons rushed, with a loud -cheer, through the postern, at whose entrance they were met by a body -of Afghan desperadoes, who had thrown themselves devotedly into this -passage, resolved to defend it with their lives. Here, the struggle was -short, but deadly. Armed with sword and daggers, each Afghan fought and -fell, with his face to the enemy; and if a spark of life remained after -he had been hurled to the earth, his last act was to direct a sword or -pistol against the breast of his hated foe as our men trampled over him -in their ownward career. So confined had been the area for combat, that -many of the soldiers, being unable to use their weapons at full length -in the mêlée, unfixed their bayonets, and used them as daggers;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> and -the broken and blood-stained weapons told with what effect they had -been wielded.</p> - -<p>The resistance at the entrance having been overcome by the destruction -of this desperate band, the cry was, "On—on! to the citadel!"</p> - -<p>A panic had now seized and paralysed many of the garrison, for they -huddled together in confined spaces, and stood to be slaughtered like -sheep, or rushed in frenzy to the walls, and cast themselves from the -parapets.</p> - -<p>No thought of refuge and opposition in the citadel seemed to have -occurred to any, nor had it been sufficiently equipped for defence.</p> - -<p>The efforts of the most rational were directed towards an escape -outside the walls, by secret outlets; but there, the clear light of -morning, and the sabres of the cavalry, left slender hopes of escape.</p> - -<p>As daylight brought each minute tracing of the works into view, the -gallant British regiment were seen winding up the steep, rocky ascent -which led to the citadel, where, with a wild "hurrah!" they burst the -gate, mounted the ramparts, and cast loose the gay blazonry of their -banners to the wind as it moaned along the shattered battlements of -captured Ghuzni.</p> - -<p>Scattered parties of the besieged now fled to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> the tops of the houses, -whence, after they had recovered a little from the prevalent panic, a -desultory fire was maintained on our soldiery. This useless resistance -nullified all attempts to restrain the carnage which ensued, and which -the garrison, by not surrendering at once, brought upon themselves. -So determined were many to carry war "to the knife," that they would -discharge their last pistol at the party advancing to capture them, and -then resign themselves, sullenly, to the fate which followed this last -act of outrage in the shape of a bullet or a bayonet. Probably, they -imagined that no quarter would be granted them; "the quality of mercy" -being rarely found "dropping like the gentle dew from heaven" on the -rugged surface of Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>Possibly, the intelligence of yesterday's massacre of the prisoners -by Shah Soojah might have induced them to expect a similar fate in -captivity.</p> - -<p>A brigade of sepoys which had entered the town and spread on the -ramparts, having scoured the buildings, soon cleared them of their -defenders, and put an end to all resistance in a few hours, the British -regiments being withdrawn to their lines.</p> - -<p>Confusion, however, continued to prevail<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> throughout the day, for a -herd of about one thousand two hundred horses belonging to the garrison -were dashing wildly through the town, driven frantic by wounds or -alarm. An officer, with a party of dragoons, was sent into the fort -to secure these horses, which now resembled wild beasts more than -domestic animals; and it was with much difficulty this roving band -were at length secured and led off. Very few horses of much value or -of sufficient size and strength for a cavalry remount were selected -from these captives. Those, however, which were used for that purpose -have mostly proved active and hardy animals, and are considered by many -superior to the general run of stud-bred horses in Bengal.</p> - -<p>In the course of the day, Hyder Khan, the governor of Ghuzni, was -captured, and brought into camp, where Shah Soojah, at the instigation -of the commander-in-chief, reluctantly granted him his life, which the -Shah no doubt considered forfeited, for bearing arms against a king who -had been deposed before, or very shortly after, the delinquent's birth.</p> - -<p>Not so fared Woolee Mahomed, (a relative of Dost Mahomed, and -standard-bearer of the army,) who defended himself to the last -extremity in the cellar, where he had taken refuge, close to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> his -Zenana,<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> which he protested should be entered by none, save over his -dead body. He surrendered, ultimately, to two officers on political -employ, who ventured to promise that his life should be spared, and was -brought before the tyrant Soojah, who immediately ordered him to be -executed.</p> - -<p>It has been alleged that Woolee Mahomed had proved treacherous to the -Shah in some previous intercourse; but no sophistry can prove that Shah -Soojah was then a king, when Dost Mahomed sat on the throne, and, with -the approbation of his subjects, exercised supreme authority.</p> - -<p>Many causes, too numerous to dwell upon, have been assigned for this -act of severity, by those desirous to defend Shah Soojah, but none -apparently can justify so cold-blooded a murder, when the words of two -British officers had been pledged for the safety of the unhappy victim. -Surely, blood enough had been shed that day to appease the royal -resentment, had it been confined to anything resembling moderate limits.</p> - -<p>Amongst the besieged the carnage was found to be considerable. Upwards -of seven hundred bodies were interred in the fort, and about two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> -thousand were taken prisoners. It was impossible to ascertain the -number of wounded, for many crawled out of their hiding-places, in the -city, several days afterwards, and were taken charge of by such of the -citizens as had resumed their usual avocations; and in the villages, -some distance from Ghuzni, a few days afterwards, I found several, -dreadfully scorched and wounded, who admitted they had escaped over the -walls, on the morning of the storm, shortly before daylight.</p> - -<p>Nearly all the prisoners were liberated, by direction of the -commander-in-chief, in the course of the day; for this, there was no -alternative, as we had not the means of taking charge of and supporting -such a large body of men, in the present state of affairs, and this act -of clemency, it was supposed, would produce a beneficial effect in the -beginning of the campaign.</p> - -<p>Amongst our own troops, the list of killed and wounded amounted to -two hundred, but of this number not more than thirty were killed, or -died of their wounds. In the list of wounded were nineteen officers, -but none of their injuries proved fatal. Some had been wounded by a -short barbed arrow or bolt, shot from a cross-bow, which implement the -Afghans are tolerably expert in using;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> but these weapons had been in -the hands of the townspeople during the defence. The garrison had been -selected from the best of Dost Mahomed's troops, and were about three -thousand in number, and universally well equipped and armed.</p> - -<p>Among the prisoners were found several Golundauze or Foot Artillery, -from Hindustan. One of these declared that, the day preceding the -storm, he had suggested to the governor the probability of our -attempting to blow in the gate of the fortress, and recommended that -a palisade should be thrown across the entrance; but his advice had -been disregarded, the gate being considered strong enough to resist any -attack.</p> - -<p>The place being now in our hands, guards were posted at the gate, and -parties patrolled the town to prevent any more plundering, and to -collect the prize property.</p> - -<p>Eight pieces of cannon, of various calibres, and twenty two jingals, or -wall pieces, were taken. Among the ordnance, was our old antagonist of -the 21st instant, which was found to carry a sixty-eight pound shot, -though assuredly at greater risk to the artillerymen who were rash -enough to fire it than to the enemy, for the interior was curiously -honeycombed.</p> - -<p>Few things of much value were taken except<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> horses, of which about one -thousand were picketed in front of the 1st Cavalry Brigade, but owing -to the insufficiency of ropes and picketing pegs, the greater part of -the horses broke loose during the night, and more than half escaped or -were stolen!</p> - -<p>The whole of the prize property taken at Ghuzni, when sold, it is said, -fetched less than three lakhs of rupees, although the horses, arms, -and other articles, when put up for auction, sold for most exorbitant -prices, and the amount was realized in a few weeks. Yet an impenetrable -veil of mystery encompasses the subject. No officers to the present -date have received any part of the treasure; and information, though -frequently and publicly solicited, has been equally scarce.</p> - -<p>After the capture of the fort, the enemy, who had occupied the adjacent -heights, retired, and left us for awhile at rest. Parties of Afghan -horsemen arrived daily in camp, from Caubul and its vicinity, to tender -their allegiance to Shah Soojah. These people concurred in asserting -that Dost Mahomed was still at Caubul, collecting his forces to give us -battle, and that his present army amounted to fifteen thousand men and -forty guns.</p> - -<p>On July 27th, a deputation under Jubbar Khan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> (brother of Dost Mahomed) -arrived at our outposts, and were conducted to head-quarters. They came -to inquire what terms would be granted to Dost Mahomed by the British -government.</p> - -<p>They were answered that Dost Mahomed must surrender himself into our -hands, and return with a portion of the army to Hindostan, where -a jageer would be allotted him, and a pension of a lakh of rupees -annually.</p> - -<p>Indignant at the severity of the terms, the Afghan ambassador replied -nearly as follows:—</p> - -<p>"These proposals are so insulting that I will not even mention them -to my brother; for what less could have been offered had you already -vanquished him in the field? We have hitherto heard that the English -were a just and equitable nation; but on what plea can you found the -right of dethroning a monarch, the choice of his country, and placing -on the throne yonder deposed puppet whom I spit at?<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> You have taken -our stronghold of Ghuzni; you may also, perhaps, overcome the army -which my brother has raised to defend himself; but the eyes of all Asia -are upon you. Asiatics will judge and appreciate your conduct; and the -blood of those innocent men who fall in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> the contest rests on your own -heads. May Allah defend the right!"</p> - -<p>I have rarely heard a speech more to the purpose, and never one more -difficult to answer.</p> - -<p>Jubbar Khan, having made more than half his auditors look -uncomfortable, returned to Caubul, after resting a short time at -the quarters of his friend, Sir Alexander Burnes, who spoke of him -in the highest terms. Jubbar Khan had formerly been ill treated by -Dost Mahomed, and been estranged thereby from his brother; but now -that adversity loured, forgetting all former differences, he came to -tender what service lay in his power, and remained faithful to the -last, although through his friend Sir Alexander Burnes, he might, -doubtless, have provided well for his own interests. A rare example -of disinterestedness, and almost a solitary case, according to all -accounts of Afghan character.</p> - -<p>Jubbar Khan's escort consisted of about one hundred cavalry, who were -nearly all uncommonly fine and powerful-looking fellows, mostly clad -in chain armour, and armed with lances and matchlocks, but mounted -on horses apparently not up to their weight: these animals, however, -are more active and hardy than would be supposed, and are trained to -perform long journeys at a shuffling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> pace of about five miles an hour, -and frequently on very short allowances of fodder.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the capture of Ghuzni, the Cavalry Brigade turned out -about eleven o'clock, in consequence of the approach of a large body of -horsemen, which proved to be Hadji Khan, Kauker, with his followers. -He had kept some distance in our rear since quitting Kandahar, and now -pushed forward to join us, seeing our affairs wore a more favourable -aspect. This chief had maintained a correspondence with the political -agent since the army had entered Afghanistan, offering to remain with -the Kandahar chiefs, and do them all the injury in his power until -our arrival! Yet Hadji Khan never actively assisted the army, nor -did he restrain his people from committing depredations whilst we -were passing through his own hills. He now came forward with a camel -load of letters, (an excellent pretext,) asserting that he had been -earnestly engaged in collecting and forwarding our communication. His -influence might possibly have effected that object, without remaining -two or three marches in rear with his whole force. This new addition -augmented the Shah's force to so large a body of Afghans, that they -were prudently kept at arm's length; for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> treachery from that camp was -now quite as formidable as resistance from the enemy in our front.</p> - -<p>On the 30th of July, we advanced from Ghuzni towards the capital, the -cavalry brigade preceding as before, accompanied by the first brigade -of infantry. Colonel Roberts's brigade followed, next day, with the -Shah; and General Willshire's division formed the rear-guard of the -army.</p> - -<p>At the commencement of the march, we passed through a narrow defile, -which would have been an admirable position for Dost Mahomed to hold -during the siege of Ghuzni, or to select afterwards to oppose our -progress. The summit of this defile was found to be the highest ground -we had crossed, being fully 1000 feet above the site of Ghuzni, and -that fortress was computed at nearly 8000 feet above the level of the -sea.</p> - -<p>Having traversed a considerable tract of rocky undulating ground, we -entered, on the third day's march, a small but well irrigated valley, -where the turf and bright corn fields beneath us, partially shaded -by avenues of fruit trees, nourished by the friendly assistance of a -mountain stream, whose course they closely and eagerly pursued to the -end of the valley, presented a prospect which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> would anywhere have been -admired, but, in these barren regions, it looked like</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 9em;">"That vale enchanting</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where all looks flowery, wild and sweet,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And nought but love is wanting."</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Possibly, on reflection, we might have found other wants; but at -present it was necessary to dispense with wishes and encounter stern -reality.</p> - -<p>Several deserters of Dost Mahomed's army joined us here, with -intelligence of his being in position about thirty miles from us, at -a place called Urghundee, with a force of fifteen thousand men and -thirty pieces of cannon; but the deserters suggested that he would -probably advance to meet us at Maidan, an open ground, which sloped -gradually towards a rivulet lying in our route. On receipt of this -news, orders were issued to the rear columns to close immediately to -the front, and we marched next morning about ten miles in momentary -expectation of encountering some of the enemies' advanced posts. Our -pickets were strengthened and carefully disposed along the front; and -our men, elated at the prospect of the approaching struggle, burnished -their arms and looked keenly to the condition of their chargers and -accoutrements. Every heart beat high in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> confident anticipation of -shortly essaying what might be effected by a small band of resolute -and disciplined soldiers against this overwhelming mass of vaunting -Afghans, who amounted to more than double our numbers.</p> - -<p>Such were the hopes entertained by our army; but, ere mid-day, these -brilliant anticipations were given to the winds; for a large body of -Afghans arrived at our pickets, bringing accounts that Dost Mahomed's -army was breaking up and deserting; and that, in despair, he had -abandoned them and his guns at Urghundee, and fled towards Bameean. -This news was soon after confirmed by numerous bodies of the ex-king's -cavalry arriving in camp to tender their useful submission and services -to Shah Soojah, until in the hour of need they might find it more -profitable and less dangerous to choose another master.</p> - -<p>Major Cureton, with a squadron of the 16th Lancers, one of Native -Cavalry, and a few artillerymen, was immediately despatched to take -possession of the cannon. Twenty-five pieces were found in position -under the brow of a hill, near Urghundee, about twenty-two miles -distant from our present encampment.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span></p> - -<p>At the same time, Captain Outram, A.D.C.<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> to the commander-in-chief, -with twelve other officers, and about two hundred and fifty Native -Cavalry, undertook the pursuit of Dost Mahomed towards the Hindoo -Koosh. Hadji Khan, Kaukur, volunteered to act as their guide, and to -assist in capturing the late monarch with several hundred of his Afghan -retinue; but these rapidly decreased in numbers as they approached -Bameean.</p> - -<p>The gallant Outram, whose whole life has been a scene of daring -exploits, which obtained for him the appropriate designation of Bayard, -"Le chevalier sans peur et sans reproche," has sketched, in his "Rough -Notes," the details of this expedition, and I shall therefore not -presume to trace that ground.</p> - -<p>Thus was the object of this singular campaign accomplished, and -Shah Soojah, after an exile of thirty years, re-established in his -dominions. The feeble resistance offered by Dost Mahomed was a matter -of surprise to all the army, considering the character for enterprise, -courage, and ability universally assigned him, and which the earlier -period of his career fully testified; but he had been many years a -king, which may perhaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> account for the difficulty. Possessing such -strong natural obstacles to the advance as well as maintenance of -an invading army, as Afghanistan unquestionably does, he profited -by none of them. In the most rugged and formidable defiles, a few -marauders only were posted to assail our rear guards and baggage; and -even these not always at the suggestion of their prince, but to glut -their own appetites for blood and plunder. As we advanced through the -inhospitable regions of Lower Afghanistan, the inhabitants generally -fled from before us, but often left their standing crops for the -maintenance of our cattle. Had these been cut down and carried away to -the mountains by the villagers, our horses must all have died, for they -endured, even as it happened, starvation enough to destroy half and -enfeeble the remainder.</p> - -<p>Though many opportunities presented themselves for cutting off our -supplies of water, this expedient was only once or twice attempted, and -that in so slovenly a manner that a party of twenty or thirty troopers -sufficed to restore the water to its channel, unopposed by the enemy. -These circumstances amply prove, without entering further into details, -that Dost Mahomed had neglected the important opportunities which lay -in his grasp, of multiplying our difficulties at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> outset. He might -assuredly have induced the chiefs of Kandahar (his own brothers) to -make common cause against their common invaders, and, in conjunction -with the Ghilzie chiefs and Mehrab Khan of Khelat (both of whom, as -well as their adherents, showed abundant proofs of their readiness to -bear arms against us) dispute the passage of the numerous and difficult -passes we were compelled to traverse. This supposition may be fully -warranted by the reply which Burnes describes Dost Mahomed to have -given on a former occasion to the Kandahar chiefs, when threatened by -the Persians. "When the Persians approach, let me know; and as I am -<i>now</i> your enemy will I then be your friend."<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p> - -<p>Such would have appeared the most rational course to pursue; and had -he taken these measures and executed them with vigour, there is little -doubt that his own army would have remained faithful to him when the -prospect appeared favourable, and when an example should be set by -other tribes. It is no matter of surprise that an army of lawless -tribes should desert a chief whom they deem unable or unwilling to -direct their efforts to the best advantage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p> - -<p>The chieftains, whose aggregate force would have been considerable, -were allowed to be beaten in detail, or to abandon their position as -we advanced. Mehrab Khan, with two thousand brave followers, fell -in the defence of his fortress, even after the dethronement of his -sovereign. The Kandahar chiefs, with what remained of their army, -having lingered to the last moment, were compelled to abandon their -city without a struggle. The Ghilzie chiefs were willing enough,<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> as -they afterwards proved, to meet their invaders in the field, and their -numbers must have been considerable, as more than six thousand were -known to be moving on our flanks on the advance to Ghuzni.</p> - -<p>Lastly, a garrison of less than three thousand men in a fortress, -which, by the modern rules of the art of war, must inevitably fall in -a few days, (considering the Gothic tracing of its defences,) was the -forlorn bulwark opposed by the monarch himself to the approaches of his -capital.</p> - -<p>However, this dernier resort, even, was made the least of by his -majesty's unaccountable desire to linger near the capital. Had the -defile, five miles on the Caubul side of Ghuzni, been selected as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> -position for his army, they would have been advantageously placed to -intercept our advance upon Caubul, and from thence dispositions might -have been made for the relief of Ghuzni, or to surprise us by a chupao, -or night attack, which mode of warfare has often been successfully -practised among the Afghans. What might have been the result of such a -manœuvre it is difficult even to conjecture;<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> for in the darkness -of night many advantages of discipline are lost, where the enemy is -felt before he is seen, and fire is almost as likely to tell upon -friend as foe; their habit, it is said, is to attack the rear of camp, -where the confused mass of cattle driven from the bazaar into the lines -must create no trifling confusion amongst the troops turning out to -form on their alarm posts.</p> - -<p>The fall of Ghuzni greatly dispirited Dost Mahomed's army;<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> they -became distrustful of him, and he of them, and the result was a mutual -separation.</p> - -<p>Many of his soldiers concurred in stating, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> they had assured -Dost Mahomed of their faith, and would have abided by him; but when -it became known that Jubbar Khan had proceeded to Ghuzni to open a -negotiation, they doubted him, and concluded he was about to provide -for himself at their expense.</p> - -<p>Taking all these circumstances into consideration, this campaign, -in an abstract military point of view, has thus far turned out more -fortunately, and with less and feebler opposition from the enemy, than -the most sanguine of its instigators or conductors could reasonably -have anticipated.</p> - -<p>Politically, I shall not discuss the subject, because I could never -perceive one sound reason for taking the haphazard and unprofitable -tour.</p> - -<p>On advancing towards the position lately occupied by Dost Mahomed, -nearly the whole line of march was flanked by troops of the deposed -monarch. Many of them were well mounted, and all well armed, although -little uniformity was maintained in dress or weapons.</p> - -<p>Some wore steel caps and gauntlets, chain-armour variously wrought, and -light, neatly-finished cimeters, which bore a remarkably keen edge, -owing to the hardness of the material; others were clad in padded -cotton or silk dresses, of every variety of colour, the head being -covered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> by turbans of thick and embroidered Cashmere, or plain white -muslin. They carried over their shoulders long matchlocks, inlaid with -silver or ivory.</p> - -<p>The Kuzzilbashes, or Persian mercenaries, were the only troops amongst -whom prevailed any uniformity, and they were generally distinguished by -a high, black, sheepskin cap, with a small red cloth top, and a sort of -frock dress, generally white, which reached to the knees, opening in -four places from the waist. Light deerskin boots, fitting closely to -the leg, completed this plain and serviceable costume.</p> - -<p>Amongst the cavalry were certainly some of the handsomest and most -powerful-looking fellows I ever saw; the complexions of many were -fairer than those of some of our own sunburnt veterans; and amongst -them, also, were some of the dirtiest, long-bearded, ferocious-looking -savages I had hitherto seen: men who would doubtless have taken no -small pleasure in carving and dissecting any luckless straggler from -our camp whom they might happen to meet singly and unarmed. The -descriptions I have read of the Huns and Goths who overran the Roman -empire in the fifth century, forcibly occurred to me as I marked their -personification on each side of the road, unaltered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> and unimproved -by a lapse of fourteen centuries; while the western emigrants have -progressed to a state of civilization and intelligence, having -subverted nations and monarchies in their resistless course.</p> - -<p>As we surmounted the hill near Urghundee, which is flanked by dark -lofty mountains, without a trace of vegetation, the peaks of the Hindoo -Koosh were visible, glittering in the morning sun from their snowy -summits. The intervening country, to the foot of this mighty barrier of -Afghanistan, presented a most unattractive appearance: an undulating, -rocky soil, with a few patches of short dry grass, extended apparently -a great portion of the way towards their foot.</p> - -<p>The guns remained in the same position in which they had been left by -Dost Mahomed, on high ground, and were ranged to command a gorge from -which our army issued. The ground, in front and rear, was flat and -favourable for cavalry, in which his principal strength consisted. -All that was requisite for the fray was a little more heart and less -distrust.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> The Zenana is the sanctum allotted to the ladies.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> This compliment was addressed to Shah Soojah.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Governor of Scinde, afterwards, or as it was then -designated, "Political Agent."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Vide Burnes' Travels, vol. iii. p. 272.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> The Ghilzies were the chief actors in the insurrection -and massacre of 1842.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> One of our chiefs suggested, in the event of a night -attack, that the men should remain in their tents, and fire upon the -assailants from the cover thus afforded.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> They expected Ghuzni to detain us many months, judging -from the difficulties it had presented in recent periods of Afghan -history.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span></p> - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p> - -<p class="center">ARRIVAL AT CAUBUL—DEATH OF COLONEL ARNOLD—RETURN OF THE EXPEDITION IN -PURSUIT OF DOST MAHOMED—THE RUSSIAN BUGBEAR—FALL OF KHELAT.</p> - - -<p>On the morning of the 6th of August, the army moved through a -well-irrigated and woody valley, to the foot of a small hill, on the -further side of which lay the celebrated metropolis of Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>Next morning, accompanied by some of my brother officers, I visited -the city of Caubul, which lies under some steep and rugged hills -at the extremity of a flat and extensive valley, whose site at the -city was estimated at six thousand five hundred feet above the sea. -On surmounting the eminence on its western side, Caubul appears to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> -great advantage, lying immediately beneath, with the white tops of its -various structures peering out from amongst thick groves of almond, -walnut, plum, and various kinds of fruit trees which flourish in this -quarter of the city.</p> - -<p>Crossing a bridge over the Caubul river, and winding through some -narrow lanes, on each side of which were houses surrounded by gardens, -we entered the principal bazaar, which extends completely across -the city to the gates of the Bala Hissar, or Shah's palace. At the -commencement of the bazaar, we were much struck with the appearance of -the fruiterers' shops, where grapes, peaches, melons, pomegranates, -and other fruits, were tastefully hung amidst branches of trees, to -which they were suspended. This street entered a small square, which -looked much like an European market-place, the centre being occupied -by stalls of vendors of vegetables, milk, and ice, while the houses -in the square were occupied by tea, spice, and sherbet merchants. The -sight of the latter soon brought our party to a halt to enjoy the -unwonted treat of a bowl of iced sherbet. In Kandahar, the sherbet was -also sold cooled with snow, but the ice was acknowledged to be a great -improvement. From the further<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> side of this market-place, an arched -bazaar, occupied entirely by silk and cloth merchants, conducted us -into a second square, tenanted by shawl makers and dyers. Thence we -passed through another well-thronged arcade into the third square, -where resided the tanners and dressers of sheepskins, for which Caubul -is celebrated. These skins are very neatly dressed, the wool being worn -next the body, and the exterior tastefully ornamented by embroidery in -silk of different colours. During the cold season, the working classes -usually wear long jackets of these skins, with short sleeves reaching -to the elbow, whilst the merchants, and those unaccustomed to manual -labour, adopt a warmer but less commodious mantle, which reaches to the -ankles. The black lamb-skins, brought from Bokhara and Persia for the -manufacture of caps, are highly prized; they are made of the skin of -the lamb immediately after its birth, and are extremely soft and glossy.</p> - -<p>Beyond this square, the bazaar becomes more narrow, and much more -noisy, as you enter the quarter occupied by saddlers and armorers, -who form no inconsiderable portion in the manufacture of articles so -requisite and so much used in this land of violence. The saddlery<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> is -made of durable materials, though clumsily put together; and in the -armorer's shop,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> it is a rare thing to find a piece of good steel -among the many fantastically shaped weapons, where the ingenuity of the -workman appears to have been called in play to invent these fanciful -methods of inflicting torture on his fellow-creatures.</p> - -<p>The Bala Hissar, standing apart on a mound which overlooks the city, -is surrounded by a rampart garnished with circular bastions, and -parapets, similarly to most of the fortresses of the East. The wall -was in somewhat bad repair on our arrival, but this was soon remedied -after the Shah had taken up his residence there. The place is of no -importance as a fortress, being completely commanded by the range of -hills in its immediate vicinity. The palace itself conveyed little idea -of grandeur to the spectator; but Shah Soojah took pains in rendering -it more consistent in appearance with the notions he entertains of the -dignity and state requisite for the abode of so mighty and independent -a monarch.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span><a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p> - -<p>In a burying ground, near the Bala Hissar, was found a tomb, with -an English inscription, to the memory of one John Hicks, who died -<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1666. This monument formed a plentiful subject for -conjecture as to who this individual could have been, who had -penetrated into a country infested from time immemorial by hordes -of robbers, who consider all travellers, especially when alone and -unprotected, as their legitimate property. The Afghan tradition was, -that two Europeans had arrived with a Persian caravan in Caubul, and -had entered the service of the Shah of Afghanistan, and that this -monument had been carved and built by the survivor.<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> But what -brought these adventurers into Afghanistan is likely to remain a -matter of some ambiguity at this distance of time, especially as the -<i>biographer</i> of John Hicks contented himself with inscribing the date -of his death and the Christian names of the deceased's parents, leaving -the object and success of his travels a mystery to puzzle and embarrass -posterity.</p> - -<p>The city was thronged, on the morning Shah Soojah entered Caubul to -resume his seat on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> throne of his ancestors, with the former -adherents of Dost Mahomed, and many a scowl was bestowed on the Shah -and his escort (consisting of a squadron of the 4th Dragoons, one of -the 16th Lancers, and some Horse Artillery) as they wended their way -through the streets, towards the palace, although none ventured to -offer any insulting language to the conquerors of Afghanistan. The -reception here was far different from that he had received at Kandahar, -where he was little known. He passed in solemn silence through the -bazaars, where, probably, but few spectators were present who had taken -an active part in his deposition thirty years since; yet tradition had -handed down many a tale of oppression, and, regretting the mild and -popular rule of Dost Mahomed, the inhabitants now submitted in silence -to the evil they could not remedy. Such was the general impression -conveyed by the demeanour of the soldiers and citizens; but, obedient -to the time-serving impulse which characterizes the venal soldiery of -the two nations, both the Kuzzilbashes and Afghan cavalry flocked to -tender their allegiance and services to the reinstated potentate. To -the loyal and civilized inhabitants of the north this comparatively -patient endurance of a change of masters may appear incredible; but a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> -perusal of the Afghan Dynasty will abundantly show that habit in this -respect, as well as in many others, becomes a second nature. In the -present instance, a considerable difficulty presented itself in the -number of candidates for military employ; the revenue of the country -being inadequate to maintain so large a force in addition to the -numerous contingent which had been levied for the Shah in Hindostan. On -the other hand, to reject the offers of these troublesome volunteers -was tantamount to the distribution of an equal number of malcontents -and robbers throughout Afghanistan, which was already abundantly -supplied with these industrious communities. For the present, a great -portion of the Kuzzilbashes were retained, and bodies of Afghan troops -were shortly afterwards to be seen on the Champ-de-Mars of Caubul, -practising, with laudable perseverance, the rigid miseries of the goose -step.</p> - -<p>A few days after our arrival the detachment which had been sent with -Captain Outram, in pursuit of Dost Mahomed, returned from their -laborious and unsuccessful chase. They had come within about twenty -miles of the fugitive, who was accompanied by fifteen hundred Afghans, -preferring to share the flight and dangers of Dost Mahomed to becoming -renegades. Hadji Khan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> was nearly frantic with fear when he found the -party had approached so much nearer the fugitives than he wished or -intended. He entreated the British officers to abandon the pursuit, -urging that their party was too small, and that not an Afghan of his -retinue would raise a weapon against Dost Mahomed. This appears to -have been one of the few truths he was known to utter, for the greater -part of his retinue had already deserted. The party, however, in spite -of all obstacles, strained every nerve to reach their object, but in -the snowy fastnesses of the Hindoo Koosh these hardy mountaineers were -not to be overcome, and the detachment was, at last, compelled to -relinquish the pursuit and return to Caubul, where Hadji Khan was put -in confinement, and afterwards sent as a prisoner to Hindostan.</p> - -<p>Many are of opinion that Hadji Khan was harshly used by the Indian -government, considering his ready adherence to the Shah on his arrival, -and assert that, having openly abandoned his master, it became -apparently his interest to secure his person. It is somewhat singular -that, amongst a nation of renegades and traitors, any partiality -should have been evinced in selecting an individual traitor, and one -who, being influential, might have been made useful; whereas, if all -had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> been convicted on suspicion, it would have been difficult to find -conveyances and prisons for the state prisoners.</p> - -<p>The Cavalry had now an opportunity offered them of replacing some -of the horses which had been lost, for a very small number had been -collected at Kandahar and Ghuzni.</p> - -<p>Being on tolerably good terms with the Afghans, we were now able to see -some of their best blood. The Government price for Cavalry remounts was -restricted to four hundred and fifty rupees each horse, which was one -hundred and fifty under the stud price, and the general opinion was in -favour of the Caubul horse, when he could be found of sufficient size; -but, generally speaking, they were so well fattened up for the market -that it required the eye of a good judge to detect faults under this -general rotundity. The horse dealers were also found, in every respect, -capable of competing with their brotherhood in England.</p> - -<p>The only instance of an Afghan dealer being "done," which I saw or -heard of, occurred on our march towards Caubul.</p> - -<p>A dealer, one morning, came into the Cavalry lines, bringing a -showy-looking nag for sale, which seemed a well bred animal, and -certainly cocked its tail and pawed the ground in a most imposing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> -manner. J——, a young Dragoon officer, who was a very respectable -jockey, asked the animal's price. "Fifteen hundred rupees," was the -modest request; "and you have not a sounder or fleeter animal in the -Feringhee camp," added the Afghan. J—— quietly noticed one or two -defects; and pointing to a little old chesnut Arab, who certainly -looked as if he were the ghost of some departed racer, but whose -muscle and sinews only required the hand upon them to be acknowledged, -offered to ride him a mile against the Afghan on his vaunted steed. The -dealer eagerly closed the wager for a hundred rupees, and the ground -was selected, as nearly as it could be guessed, for the distance. -The riders were soon up, (the Afghan apparently the heavier;) the -word was given, and away they went, the Afghan leading at a tearing -pace, flourishing his legs and whip, and chuckling and hallooing with -delight. J—— saw there was no necessity for collaring him, the -Afghan doing all that could be desired. When within fifty yards of the -winning-post, J——, having waited steadily on his competitor until -the sleek animal was beat, gave the gallant little Arab his head and -the Afghan the go-by, telling him to take his useless fifteen hundred -rupees' worth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> home, as he had beaten him with the slowest horse in the -regiment.</p> - -<p>The fame of this race must have preceded the army, for I never heard -another instance of an Afghan dealer wishing to match his horse for -speed against any of our chargers. Their own races are generally for -great distances, and the race-course is usually in the main road, -where rocks and sharp stones are not scarce; but the horses are shod -with a plate of steel which covers nearly the whole foot—a mode of -shoeing adopted almost throughout the army. The Caubul ponies were very -powerful and hardy animals, and have been much sought after and prized -in Hindostan.</p> - -<p>The Afghans do not appear to possess much attachment to their -sovereign, though the feudal system prevalent would induce a contrary -inference. Their merchandize fetching a favourable price, or the -success of a marauding party, constitute their chief concernment; and -the occupation of the musnud by a Barukzye, or Suddozye, is a matter of -secondary importance to all, save, perhaps, the members of those two -families, provided the people are unmolested in their avocations. In -such a case, the usual practice has been to get rid of the obnoxious -monarch as soon as a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> convenient conspiracy can be organized, which has -been rarely unsuccessful. An escort, or pass, from a mountain-chief, -will carry the bearer safely through that chief's territory; but he -must beware how he uses it beyond the assigned boundary, where it may -prove worse than useless. Afghanistan is occupied by such a variety of -tribes, each possessing their mountain fastnesses to retreat upon in -case of need—men under no control beyond the temporary influence of -their several leaders and chiefs—that it would certainly be an arduous -undertaking to reduce the country to a complete state of subordination.</p> - -<p>Under the different Shahs of Afghanistan, that portion of the people -only who could be attracted and held by interested motives rallied -round their king in times of trouble; and amongst so capricious and -disunited a people, the connecting link with their sovereign has always -been weak, and often broken.</p> - -<p>Whilst encamped in the vicinity of Caubul, a party of officers visited -some hills about ten miles distant, under the escort of a petty -mountain-chief, tributary to the Shah; the party were, of course, -hospitably received by himself and the tribe, but his jurisdiction did -not extend far. Pointing out the limits of his domain, he showed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> a -dark range of hills, barely thirty miles' distant, belonging, as he -said, to two chiefs, from whom Dost Mahomed had been unable to exact -tribute or submission, although their dwellings were almost within -sight of his palace-windows.</p> - -<p>Even at this time, the British authority could not be said to extend -beyond the chain of guards encircling our camp; for any soldiers -or camp-followers straying far from the lines at night, and not -unfrequently in the daytime also, stood a good chance of being shot, -or cut down by some band of marauders. This hapless state of affairs -remained unaltered during the whole time of our residence at Caubul.</p> - -<p>Having been encamped for a fortnight, eight miles south of Caubul, the -army were ordered to change ground to the north-eastern side, about two -miles from the Bala Hissar, and on the Peshawur Road.</p> - -<p>The day before moving, Brigadier Arnold (who had been suffering -severely from illness since the army left Kandahar) died, universally -regretted by the whole army, and especially by the 16th Lancers, -which regiment he commanded, and to whom his loss was irreparable. We -marched, in the evening, to the city; and the Lancers attended the -remains of their colonel to the grave, which was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> dug at the foot of a -steep, rocky mountain, about a quarter of a mile distant from the Bala -Hissar. The funeral procession was attended by nearly all the officers -of the army; and amongst them were few who had not experienced and -appreciated the merits of that gallant soldier, who was now borne to -the grave, from the effects of a bullet, which had pierced his breast -when charging with the 10th Hussars at Waterloo.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a></p> - -<p>When the loose earth, which hides the tenement of the dead from the -last sad gaze of the living, was cast on his coffin, the sullen roar -of the cannon, which awakened from their reverie the abstracted group -of mourners, and ran, telling their tale of woe, amongst the craggy -precipices of the mountains of Caubul, found an echo of melancholy -which thrilled in the hearts of his bereaved friends. I turned from the -grave with the oppressive feeling of destitution which every soldier -must experience on losing as gallant a colonel as ever drew a sabre, -and as warm-hearted and accomplished a gentleman as even England can -produce:</p> - - - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;">"Requiescat in pace."</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span></p> - -<p>Reports were in daily circulation that Dost Mahomed had crossed the -Hindoo Koosh, and taken up his quarters with his brother-in-law, the -King of Bokhara, who had promised his aid to the fugitive monarch in -regaining the sovereignty, of which he had been deprived. Improbable -as this was,—for had such been the intentions of the King of Bokhara, -he would surely have advanced to the assistance of Dost Mahomed before -his kingdom had been wrested from him,—Dr. Lord, of the political -department, was sent with a military escort to cross the Indian -Caucasus, and convey despatches, as well as gain intelligence, in that -part of the country. The doctor had not reached Bameean, when, from the -exaggerated reports of the inhabitants, he was led to suppose that Dost -Mahomed, with a considerable force, was already between him and the -mountain-pass. Not desiring a personal interview with the deposed Shah, -whose arguments in favour of his own cause were likely to be weighty -and incontrovertible, the political doctor wheeled about, and hastened -to Caubul, where the intelligence induced Sir John Keane to order a -force, under Colonel Sale, to be in readiness to move towards Bameean.</p> - -<p>Two days after these orders were issued, news<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> arrived that Dost -Mahomed, so far from crossing the Hindoo Koosh, was hastening in an -opposite direction, with as much speed as the worthy doctor had used in -his return to the capital. The force was consequently countermanded; -and a detachment only, consisting of part of the Shah's goorkhas, and -a few guns, were sent to occupy Bameean, which lies about eighty miles -from Caubul, at the foot of the mountainous barrier, which divides -Afghanistan from Bokhara. The road to this outpost was exceedingly bad; -and even the small force of artillery which accompanied the party, -delayed them nearly a fortnight, in crossing the rugged mountains and -ravines which obstruct the road from Caubul to Bameean.</p> - -<p>So much paper has been already wasted on the Russo-phobia, that it -would be superfluous to enter on a discussion of the obstacles which -might oppose a march from the Caspian to the Indian Caucasus, over a -country of which the little that is known has been gleaned from the -scanty details of a few adventurous travellers, stealing in disguise -over these inhospitable regions, and necessarily gleaning but meagre -information. But of the difficulties which would present themselves -to an army, on its arrival at the Hindoo Koosh, I think a very simple -estimate may be formed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> The pass over those mountains, on account -of its elevation, and the heavy falls of snow which constantly occur -during the greater part of the year, is only practicable in the summer -months, which would ensure the advantage of knowing at what time to -expect an enemy. The road, by Herat, does not possess this advantage, -being the easiest and most frequented passage into Afghanistan; but -thence to Kandahar, the country possesses all the obstacles which -opposed our progress through Lower Afghanistan, which would seriously -affect a force whose strength and resources must have been materially -weakened during a laborious march from the shores of the Caspian, even -unopposed by an enemy. When arrived in the heart of Afghanistan, the -greatest difficulties would oppose themselves to the maintenance of so -numerous an army as would be requisite for so important an enterprise; -and the palpable truth, that amongst these barren mountains a small -army would be annihilated and a large one starved, must obtrude itself -on the minds of all who are qualified to canvass the dilemma.</p> - -<p>But an army which, by an effective commissariat and consummate -fortune, advanced with its efficiency but little impaired, towards -the frontiers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> of Hindostan, from the centre of Afghanistan, need not -hastily congratulate itself on the charms of ultimate success, for the -passages <i>out</i> of that country present as formidable barriers as the -entrance <i>into</i> it, and these are the true outposts to the defensive -frontier line of our Eastern Empire.</p> - -<p>The intricate pass of the Kyber on the one side, and that of the Bolan, -with the neighbouring Gundava, on the other frontier, being the sole -outlets for an effective army,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> form the natural outworks to the -Indus, taken as a base of operations; and the policy which suggested -the isolated position taken up in Afghanistan, with the far distant and -imperfect lines of the Sutlej and lower Indus, was surely at variance -with the admitted principles of military defence.</p> - -<p>In either of the above-named passes, a small British force would -maintain their ground against any odds; for the defiles being in -many places not five yards in width, and flanked by craggy mountains -which rise nearly perpendicularly on each side in many places, the -numbers of the enemy would advantage him nothing, the heights<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> being -in our possession, whilst a strong palisade and battery, thrown across -the road and covered by musketry from the adjacent heights, ought -effectually to check his progress.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></p> - -<p>That Russia <i>did</i> meditate hostilities in the East may be inferred -from the detection of her envoy's intrigues at the courts of Persia -and Caubul; but the reliance to be placed on the faith and promises -of these agents may be fairly estimated from the observance of the -following article in a treaty between the Shah of Persia and the Ameers -of Kandahar.</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 45%;">Dated June, 1838.</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Art. V. "If an enemy<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> should appear from any quarter, and the -sirdars should not be able to repel him themselves, the Shah of Persia -binds himself to supply the sirdars of Kandahar with troops, artillery, -and money, to whatever extent may be necessary, and not to withhold any -description of assistance or support."</p> - -<p>The treaty, from which this article is extracted, was remitted to -England by Dr. M'Neill. It is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> thus countersigned by Count Simonich, -the Russian agent:</p> - -<p>"I, minister plenipotentiary<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> of the government of Russia, will be -guarantee that neither on the part of H.M. &c. &c. &c., the Shah of -Persia, nor on the part of the powerful<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> sirdars shall there arise -any deviation from, or violation of, this entire treaty and their -engagements.</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Signed) "<span class="smcap">L.S. Simonich.</span>"</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding these promises of vigorous assistance from Persia, -we had not the pleasure of meeting any portion of their armament in -the vicinity of Kandahar, nor, to the best of our knowledge, were any -Russian agents seen enforcing the Shah to perform Article No. V. of -the above-named treaty. Yet an enemy did appear unto the sirdars of -Kandahar, and from a quarter whence he had been many months expected, -and those "powerful" chiefs did not even make the experiment of their -ability to repel him.</p> - -<p>Perhaps this article of the Shah's treaty was founded on the chance of -the sirdars making the experiment; but, having adopted a more prudent -course, there can be no doubt that a king, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> possesses so many -sublime titles as the Shah of Persia, would not be guilty of a breach -of faith; and therefore the Kandahar chiefs will speedily return from -Persia with artillery, troops, and money, to an unlimited amount; in -fact, sufficient (as the word "necessary," in the article quoted, -must imply) to expel the British from Afghanistan; and, moreover, it -is Count Simonich's duty to see this done. As Russia has disowned -the threats, and the author met a conveniently political death, we -may infer that the project of holding India with a chain of posts, -stretching over mountains and deserts more than the semi-diameter of -the globe in measurement, whilst the troublesome Dardanelles would -materially interfere with all commercial intercourse, when watched by -a British fleet, has been abandoned, and for the present a Russian -invasion of India may be deemed improbable.</p> - -<p>Although Afghanistan was now nominally subdued, the animosity and power -of many mountain-tribes was unabated, and a few hours' ride from Caubul -a cold-blooded murder was committed on Colonel Herring, commanding a -regiment of Native Infantry, on the march from Kandahar to join the -army at Caubul. About forty miles from the capital, he strolled from -camp in the evening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> accompanied by two brother officers, with two -sepoys in attendance. The party reached the summit of a hill, not -more than a mile from the camp, when they descried a body of armed -mountaineers advancing rapidly towards them. As the intention of the -Afghans was evident, and their numbers considerable, Colonel Herring's -party retired towards camp; but the assassins gained on them; and, -in descending the hill, the Colonel, struck down by a stone or a -matchlock ball, was immediately butchered. One of the sepoys, who was -near Colonel Herring, in trying to defend him, was severely wounded, -and left on the ground for dead. The regimental guard, on the alarm -reaching the camp, hastened to the spot, but the miscreants had fled, -after perpetrating their brutal outrage.</p> - -<p>Shortly after the regiment's arrival at head-quarters, Sir John Keane -ordered a part of the 16th Native Infantry, under Major Maclaren, -accompanied by some irregular horse, to scour the neighbourhood, and -endeavour to ferret out the assassins. This object was successfully -attained, and the indefatigable Maclaren, having traced them to a hill -fort, assaulted and carried the place, when the garrison, conscious of -fighting with halters round their necks, made a de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>termined resistance, -and were nearly all exterminated. This example had not the effect of -restraining the bloodthirsty disposition of other bands of marauders; -and the road between our camp and the city continued to be infested -with assassins after nightfall. A dragoon was cut down, a night or two -after, within a few yards of the standard guard, and similar instances -were constantly occurring during our residence in the country. So -expert were they at the practice, that retaliation could seldom be -made. One instance I must relate, of a singular shot made by a soldier -of a Dragoon regiment, who was skirting the hills, a few miles from -camp, in pursuit of snipe and partridge, with a fowling piece loaded -with small shot. He suddenly perceived an Afghan, forty paces from him, -kneeling behind a rock, on which he had rested his matchlock, to make -sure of his aim, and coolly waiting till his intended victim approached -a little nearer. The soldier instantly threw the fowling-piece to his -shoulder, fired, and rolled over his black game stone dead. A few shots -had entered the brain and temples, and told with deadly haste.</p> - -<p>As it was now considered improbable that any serious opposition to -Shah Soojah's authority<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> would be attempted, an order was issued, -directing the Bombay column of the army of the Indus to return to their -presidency by the route we had advanced.</p> - -<p>On the 15th of September, 1839, our Bombay brethren quitted us, and -proceeded on their homeward route, destroying, on their way, some -petty hill forts, tenanted by refractory tribes. On approaching the -fortress of Khelat, the residence of Mehrab Khan, whose duplicity had -thrown such difficulties in our way by the promise of supplies, which -were never sent, a deputation was forwarded to that chief, demanding -atonement for his behaviour, and intimating, that nothing short of -the most unqualified submission to Shah Soojah's clemency would -avert the fall of his city and destruction of his power. Mehrab Khan -preferred reposing confidence in the temper of his cimeter rather than -in that of his sovereign; and General Willshire advanced upon Khelat -with a brigade of infantry, consisting of her Majesty's 2nd and 17th -regiments, and the 31st Bengal Native Infantry, accompanied by a troop -of horse artillery, and some irregular horse. The remainder of the -column pursued their way towards the mountain-passes.</p> - -<p>On approaching the fort, a large party of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> enemy, who held -possession of the heights, opened their fire on the head of the British -column. The enemy were soon dislodged from this post by the infantry; -and, rushing from the heights into the city, were so closely pursued -by their assailants, that the gates were shut barely soon enough to -prevent the British from entering also. The troops, when falling back -under cover from the galling fire which was now poured upon them from -the walls of Khelat, lost several men.</p> - -<p>Two horse artillery guns came up without delay, and their fire -sufficed, in a few strokes, to crush the unprotected gate sufficiently -to render an assault practicable. General Willshire now ordered the -infantry to advance, which was hailed with the alacrity usual on -similar occasions. With a cheer, they rushed up the ascent, regardless -of the fire from the walls, and soon, beating down all opposition, -took possession of the city. Mehrab Khan, surrounded by many of his -chieftains and the greater part of the garrison, betook himself to -the citadel, but this was incapable of defence; and the prince, with -the greater part of his kinsmen and retinue, fell gallantly defending -themselves at the gateway. Amongst the chief and his sirdars, no -thoughts of surrender were harboured: each fought with a de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>termination -which put all chance of quarter out of the question; but the flashing -cimeters of the Afghans, though wielded with the energy of desperation, -soon drooped before the irresistible stroke of the British bayonet, -which drank deeply that morning of the blood which, according to -Colonel Mitchel, it never had, and never possibly could, shed.</p> - -<p>When Mehrab Khan and his sirdars had fallen in the front of the -struggle, the remainder of the garrison surrendered; and thus, under -the prowess of British arms, fell the second important fortress of -Afghanistan, and with a rapidity which, to the Afghans, must have been -bewildering; for the bayonet glittered on the parapets of the citadel -in less than two hours from the time it was levelled to drive the enemy -on the heights under cover of the walls, which they fondly believed -impregnable.</p> - -<p>Such examples as had now been shown would, it was supposed, have taught -the Afghans the vanity of resistance; but many revolting lessons -of blood were yet requisite to teach these fierce mountaineers the -necessity of submission, and our resolution of benefiting them, whether -they wished it or not, with the inestimable advantages of civilization. -But this radical reform can never<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> be consummated in our day; nor can I -imagine a more arduous undertaking than such a crusade would be amongst -a nation with whom the "lex fortioris" has been the established code of -centuries.</p> - -<p>The garrison of Khelat amounted to about two thousand men, as near as -an estimate could be formed; but the greater part of these fell during -the storm.<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a></p> - -<p>In General Willshire's force, which numbered about twelve hundred -men, the casualties were—one lieutenant and thirty men killed; four -captains, four subalterns, and ninety-seven men wounded; killed, Lieut. -Gravatt, 2nd, or Queen's Regiment.</p> - -<p>A great number of the wounded afterwards died before reaching Bombay, -which induced a supposition of the enemies' weapons having been -poisoned; but there seems no foundation for the report. The climate -below the mountain-passes was most probably the poison which carried -off so many gallant fellows.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The best cimiters are of steel made in Persia, where they -are so hard and highly polished as to take the keenest edge; but this -makes them necessarily very brittle.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Had the Shah paid less attention to <i>meretricious</i> -ornament, and more to its defensive requisites, it would have -contributed much to his credit and safety.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> He must have been a stonemason, for it was beautifully -carved.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> Colonel Arnold fell in the same charge, and with the same -squadron, as Howard, the kinsman of Byron, immortalized in "Childe -Harold".</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> The passes of Dera Ismael Khan, I have neglected to -notice, as, after an active survey, they were reported impracticable -for artillery.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Had Dost Mahomed adopted these measures, it is probable -Sir John Keane would never have obtained nobility.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> At this period, there could be little doubt who were -the expected enemy, for Pottinger had proceeded, with a promise of -assistance, to Herat.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> Russia denies this big word.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> This irony is unbecoming the character of a -plenipotentiary.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> The names of the chiefs who fell cannot be a matter of -general interest; but those who have any curiosity on the subject, may -find the list in General Willshire's despatch.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span></p> - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p> - -<p class="center">THE ARMY AT CAUBUL BROKEN UP—MARCH OF SIR JOHN KEANE'S ESCORT BY -JELLALABAD, AND THROUGH THE KHYBER-PASS, TO PESHAWUR.</p> - - -<p>The army of the Indus having effected the object for which they had -been assembled, it was resolved to leave Shah Soojah to the charge -of his loving subjects, supported by the contingent, and a small -portion only of the force. The country being ill-adapted for cavalry, -the news that the brigade, excepting one native regiment, were to be -withdrawn, was received by the greater part with decided satisfaction; -for many began to pine with regret at the protracted absence from their -amiable halves; others were anxious to bind themselves in rosy (or -thorny?) fetters; and, last and least, a few, after a long and painful -estrange<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>ment, sighed deeply to participate once more in the pleasures -of that deity, whose benign influence has been said to surpass "all -that life can supply"—riches, love, ambition, friendship—</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 9em;">"For what tongue will avow</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">That friends, rosy wine, are so faithful as thou?"</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>So wrote the virtuous and inconsistent Byron; and I have no doubt that -a few habitual drunkards may concur in such an opinion.</p> - -<p>The sole recommendation to Caubul was the temperate climate, which -served to invigorate many who had severely felt the fatigues and -exposure of this campaign, or who still suffered from the effects of -their Indian enemy. To those who took pleasure in an active life and -field-sports, our present quarters were irksome. The country possessed -no attractions for the sportsman; and even in the pursuit of small game -at any distance from camp, it was necessary to go prepared for more -serious encounters; inasmuch as any straggler from the party stood an -uncommonly good chance of being bagged by some Afghan huntsmen, whose -sporting propensities led them to pursue white game with quite as much -zest as ever, though, from the royal proclamation, it might be inferred -that the season had closed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span></p> - -<p>Not satisfied with simply destroying their prey, these wild beasts -mutilated the dead bodies, and arranged them in fanciful attitudes. -Occasionally, a leg would be cut off, and placed under the head, for -a pillow; the head itself would sometimes be found supported by the -hands, in lieu of the neck; and I have seen things in a man's mouth -which were never intended by nature to occupy such a situation.</p> - -<p>To the antiquarian, Afghanistan presented some interest and employment -in the collection of coins and antiques: many of the former were bought -from the Afghans, bearing the names of the ancient Bactrian dynasty, -and successors of Alexander the Great. The Afghans had, however, -imbibed so great a taste for these antiquities, when they discovered -the value we set upon them, that the manufacture and sale of the most -ancient Bactrian coins is becoming a trade of some profit. Even at this -day, both the Sikhs and Afghans converse with great interest on the -feeble tradition they possess of events which occurred in the days of -Shah Sikunder (Alexander the Great) and his generals, who subsequently -governed this country. Alexander's Eastern expedition, the countries -which he traversed, the localities of his engagements, and the modern -names<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> of the nations with whom he fought, have been much veiled in -obscurity, owing to the very slender knowledge possessed by Europeans -of the countries lying between Persia and Chinese Tartary.</p> - -<p>The numerous ancient coins and reliques, monuments of Grecian design, -the tradition of the natives, and the names borne by many ancient -cities of Afghanistan and the Punjaub, (some of which, at the present -day, assimilate much to those recorded by historians,) being matters -of recent discovery, will tend to assist the classic labourer in such -an investigation with materials which have hitherto been wanting or -imperfect. As several officers who were with the army have succeeded in -making extensive collections of ancient coins, I trust that, ere long, -these may tend to throw some light on the interesting subject. The -evidence of Alexander's advance into Hindostan, south of the Sutlej, -is very vague, especially as the princes of India made no attempt to -oppose his approach towards their frontier, as the more warlike nations -of Afghanistan and the Punjaub undoubtedly did; and Porus, with his -herds of elephants, marks pretty accurately the neighbourhood of the -Hydaspes in the modern Jelum, because the country north of Peshawur -is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> unfitted to nurture elephants. South of the Jelum or Hydaspes, -I conceive the difficulty of tracing his route to be much greater, -for the rivers are so numerous in the rainy season, and have changed -their courses so materially, that the modern streams must differ -considerably, both in number and position, from the ancient.</p> - -<p>The accounts from the north of the Hindoo Koosh, about the beginning of -October, showed the probability of a storm arising, ere long, in that -quarter, directed by the hand of Dost Mahomed; and, in consequence, Sir -John Keane ordered the whole of the Bengal infantry division to stand -fast, for the present, in Afghanistan, for the security of Shah Soojah, -who daily prophesied that our departure would be his death warrant.</p> - -<p>The commander-in-chief himself, having resolved on returning to -England, now signified in general orders, that on his departure the -supreme command would devolve on Sir Willoughby Cotton.</p> - -<p>The cavalry-brigade, (except the 2nd Native Cavalry, which was left -in Afghanistan,) with a detachment of the European Regiment, and a -few Sappers, formed the whole of the returning party escorting his -excellency.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span></p> - -<p>I little thought, at the time of quitting Bengal, that any fit of -desperation could ever induce me to look forward with anything like -pleasure to a residence in Hindostan; yet an experience of a few -months' sojourn in the inhospitable and dreary wastes of Afghanistan -proved that there were worse places on the face of this chequered globe -than India.</p> - -<p>Our retrospect, since leaving Merut, was not a very attractive one. -Nearly a year had now been spent under canvas, or, more frequently, -under the canopy of heaven, with a fierce sun scorching us unmercifully -by day, and occasionally a damp chill to vary it by night. During the -year, we had risen nearly every day about two or three hours before -daybreak, and undergone the monotonous and wearisome marches, which -resembled at last, in many respects, the morning's employment of a -malefactor at the treadmill; and, to crown all, we had arrived at -last in a country of rocks, savages, and starvation, where our chief -occupation consisted in hunting continually for an enemy, who took care -to deny us the excitement anticipated in the discovery. Such having -been, with trifling exceptions, the result of our campaign, every -source of employment, beyond that above mentioned, was confined to -the narrow limits of a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> canvas world, peopled almost entirely -by the grosser sex of black and white; for the small portion of the -opposite sex and former colour who sojourned amongst us, were scarcely -attractive enough to remind one of the generic distinction which -existed. To these hardships, and others in addition, we would more -cheerfully have submitted, had an enemy kept us on the alert, and -played, on an extensive board, the rough game of war; but the only -enemies we had met were scarcely deserving such a name—ensconcing -themselves behind mud walls, or perched on inaccessible heights—and as -there appeared now little chance of tilting with the Afghan clans in -the open field, it was with feelings of pleasure we looked forward to -an emancipation from the barren mountains of Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>The Punjaub was, at this period, in so distracted a state, that the -government of the country betrayed a marked anxiety that we should not -become witnesses of their anarchy and disunion. Even in the days of -Runjeet Singh, the Sikhs beheld with feelings of uneasiness the advance -and establishment of the British outposts on the Sutlej; and the -passage of troops through their country caused even greater jealousy -and alarm, for they considered, not perhaps without some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> foundation, -from a few precedents in the East, that when the English had once got a -footing, they might take a fancy to remain there.</p> - -<p>In the present crisis of affairs, it was apprehended that these Sikh -scruples would act as a temporary obstacle to our departure; but, -fortunately for us, the court of Lahore yielded a reluctant assent to -our passing through their country, and on the morning of the 15th of -Oct. we quitted Caubul.</p> - -<p>The breaking up of a long-standing camp is a scene of no trifling -bustle and confusion. The previous day is usually one of considerable -trouble to those who have suffered their marching-establishment to get -out of order; and when it is requisite to replace a camel or a bullock, -the new comer, even if found, (and that is generally at a ruinous -price,) not unfrequently evinces the most marked repugnance to tents -or bullock-trunks. Yet, however great the difficulty, the peremptory -necessity of the habitation being moved before next morning, causes all -to be prepared at sunset, either by a reduction of baggage, or increase -of cattle, save the more provident campaigners, who rectify such -deficiencies without delay. The earliest practicable hours are kept by -all off duty, and two hours after sunset<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> the camp (if well regulated) -is quiet enough, unless a horse breaks loose and sets the whole brigade -in a state of ferment; for all seem to take a deep interest in the -progress of any mad animal who tears through the camp, with ropes and -pegs flying in wild confusion about his heels. As night advances, -even these stray madcaps betake themselves to rest, and the quiet is -only disturbed by the hourly tramp of patrols, or the challenge of a -sentry. This gloom and stillness are suddenly dissipated by the shrill -startling blast of the trumpet, wakening all around to consciousness -and activity. The loud and continued neigh from the pickets, and the -angry remonstrances of the camels, amidst the extensive buzz of human -voices and barking of dogs, tell that man and brute are both aware of -the time having come for their allotted duties. Sticks and dry grass -raked into pyramids are sending forth volumes of smoke in one place, -and in another are rising into high crackling fires, round which may -be seen groups of dusky figures squatted together, inhaling their -morning hookahs, or spreading their long bony hands to the flames, and -listlessly regarding their more assiduous brethren occupied in striking -the tents, or fitting loads on the backs of the beasts of burden. But -think not, my lazy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> fire-worshipper, this indolence is unobserved; the -eye of the occupant of yonder tent is upon you: he advances softly -towards the fire, his arm is raised, and the descending lâttie causes a -momentary scene of flight and confusion which is immediately succeeded -by a zealous attention to duty, proving the salutary force of the -"Argumentum ad baculum." Although this is not an orthodox, logical, or -even legal argument, it is, nevertheless, frequently used in India, -and is generally conclusive. Next morning, the voice, unaccompanied by -manual exercise, will produce the desired effect.</p> - -<p>The loads being packed, and all the tents, save three or four lazy -stragglers, having disappeared, the second trumpet sends its shrill -echoes through the lines, and gives warning that the treadmill will -soon be at work. Beware of that camel's mouth gaping close to your hand -in the dark, or he will spoil it for holding a rein or a sabre; and -beware the treacherous tent-peg, which lurks in savage gloom for the -shins of the unwary. "It is no use cursing the peg. Why did you not get -out of its way when you found it was not inclined to get out of yours?" -cries a facetious neighbour, as you stoop to rub the lacerated shin, -and narrowly escape being trampled by an elephant, who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> is hustling off -with a few hundred weight of canvas and tent-poles hanging about him.</p> - -<p>The third trumpet and a cup of <i>boiling</i> coffee generally accompany -each other, if your khansanah belong to the right Dean Swift's breed; -and it is no punishment to insist on his drinking it himself—the man -would swallow a cup of cayenne and fire, without winking.</p> - -<p>The troops are formed in dusky masses on their alarm-posts; the -commanding-officer rides along the line; the word of command is given, -and passed down the squadrons; the welcome note for the march is heard, -and the tramping of the steeds raises an impenetrable cloud of dust -around the column, as we cheerfully turn our backs on Caubul, most -probably for ever; the band prophetically striking up, "Ha til mi -tulidh," or something which I mistook for it.</p> - -<p>Sir John Keane marched with the head column, consisting of the 16th -Lancers, one troop of Horse Artillery, and four companies of Native -Infantry. General Thackwell followed, the next day, with the 3rd Native -Cavalry, detachments of Infantry, and the state prisoners, Hyder Khan, -late governor of Ghuzni, and Hadji Khan Kaukur. The former was destined -for Bombay, the latter, for Bengal, where it was intended to place him -in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> close confinement at Chunar, on the Ganges; but this was afterwards -commuted for a more salutary and agreeable durance at Landour, where -Hadji Khan had little cause to complain of the severity of his captors.</p> - -<p>The 2nd Bengal Cavalry, which were left at Caubul, soon afterwards had -an opportunity of distinguishing themselves at Purwan Durrah, in an -encounter with Dost Mahomed. The Ameer having been nearly surrounded -by his enemies, and entertaining a low opinion of the courage of the -Native Cavalry, resolved to dash through the circle at the post held -by the above-named corps, and accompanied by a determined body of his -adherents, he charged two squadrons of the 2nd Cavalry.</p> - -<p>The officers of the regiment having tried unsuccessfully to induce -their men to follow, formed a line, and gallantly charged the Afghan -force. Three of the regiment were killed, and most of the remainder -severely wounded; but such was the moral effect of this behaviour, -that Dost Mahomed exclaimed, "that war against such a nation must be -hopeless."</p> - -<p>The dastardly black fugitives who had been spectators, during their -flight, of the self-devotion and butchery of their officers, spread -themselves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> in the wildest disorder and affright, but the avenging -cimeters of the Afghans soon flashed amongst them, and dealt a partial -retribution for their detestable cowardice.</p> - -<p>The number of this regiment was afterwards erased from the list of the -Company's troops, and the corps was disbanded at Kurnaul, with the -exception of one squadron, which, not having been present at Purwan -Durrah, was distributed throughout the remaining regiments of Native -Cavalry. The officers were provided with various situations in the -Company's service, and subsequently incorporated in a new cavalry -regiment, (the 11th.)</p> - -<p>Some attempts to palliate the conduct of the 2nd Cavalry, on this -occasion, have been attempted; and I have heard it adduced in -extenuation, that the men (save the mark!) had no confidence in their -arms and equipments or their <i>horses' bits</i>—that they reverenced Dost -Mahomed and the Afghans as the heads of their religion<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>—and that -British cavalry have also been known to be backward.</p> - -<p>Regarding the first of these assertions, we need but ask—Is not the -Native Cavalry soldier as carefully instructed in the use of his weapon -as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> the English Dragoon? If he be, there is no reason for his running -away. If he be not, I cannot admit that a brave man is likely to run -away with a piece of English steel in his hands, because he thinks he -is not sufficiently instructed in the use of the sabre, or because he -prefers Hindustanee manufacture.</p> - -<p>In answer to the second apology, it is only requisite to state, that if -they did respect the Afghans as brother Mussulmans, experience should -long before have taught them that the feeling was by no means mutual. -The irregular horse were affected with no such compunctions, but -evinced a laudable desire to destroy their enemies, when called upon to -do so, on several occasions, in Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>To the third charge, I must plead guilty of ignorance; for I cannot -remember having heard or read of any British cavalry regiment -absconding in the face of an enemy, and leaving their officers to -charge, unaided by a single trooper of the corps.<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a></p> - -<p>On quitting our camp at Caubul, we marched over a rough and stony -road for about ten miles,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> and encamped on some high grounds. In the -afternoon, we experienced a smart shock of an earthquake here, which -appeared to come rumbling towards us from the mountains of the Hindoo -Koosh, and upset nearly everything in our tents. From the elevated -ground on which we were encamped, we had a farewell view of Caubul and -the noble chain of the Indian Caucasus, still clad in bright snowy -garments.</p> - -<p>The next morning, we entered a steep, rocky<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> pass, between two -ranges of mountains, where the cold before sunrise was intense, and -the aspect certainly the most dreary we had hitherto experienced. We -emerged, half frozen, from this stony sepulchre, and gladly thawed -ourselves in the sun, which shone dimly on the platform of rock where -our camp was pitched.</p> - -<p>Each day, as we advanced, the roads (if they can be deemed worthy such -a title) became decidedly worse. Our third day's march lay through -another narrow defile, across which dashed several rapid mountain -torrents at intervals of about a mile from each other. The next day's -occupation was a steep, rocky ascent, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> an equally sudden fall, -which caused a corresponding one with our unfortunate beasts of burden.</p> - -<p>A succession of deep, stony ravines, and occasionally sharp-pointed -rocks, presented the next variety.</p> - -<p>On the 7th of March, we wound up a long gradual ascent of some twelve -or fourteen miles, and on descending from this elevation two guns were -discovered not far off the road, embedded in the sand. These had been -abandoned here by Dost Mahomed's son, (Mahomed Akbar,) when retreating -from the gorge of the Khyber to join his father previous to their -flight from Urghundee.</p> - -<p>On the eighth march from Caubul, we descended into the celebrated -valley of Neemla, where Shah Soojah had been finally defeated in 1809, -and expelled from his kingdom. It is a small, well-cultivated valley, -surrounded by barren, craggy mountains, (as is the case, indeed, -with almost every valley in the country.) If the numbers present at -this battle are correctly stated, it must have been a business of -tolerably close quarters, and little scope could have been afforded for -manœuvring: but the Afghans are not much addicted to wasting time -in military operations. A favourite mode of attack is the chupao, or -surprise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> by night, (which was practised at Neemla,) and if the enemy -be found prepared, or the first charge prove unsuccessful, they prefer -reserving their energies for a more favourable opportunity, to pressing -the matter any further under such critical circumstances as a spirited -resistance might entail. The party making the night attack certainly -act under the more favourable circumstances of the two, as in case of -failure a retreat is open under cover of the darkness, and unmolested; -whereas, the party attacked once getting into disorder, can scarcely -hope to rally under such disadvantageous circumstances. Thus it was -at the battle, or, rather, the route of Neemla, where Shah Soojah was -encamped, with a force exceeding fifteen thousand men, whilst his -adversary, with barely two thousand fighting men, coming down suddenly -during the night, took the Shah so completely by surprise, that he -forthwith devoted all his attention to preserve his own royal person, -leaving his army to do all the fighting part without any general. Of -course they soon got into hopeless confusion, and followed the example -of their prudent master before the chiefs were able to marshal their -numerous forces. Such are the chances and vicissitudes of war.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> Want of -timely information, a picket ill posted, or a vidette falling asleep, -may cause the loss of an army and an empire.</p> - -<p>The tenth march from Caubul brought us to the green and lively-looking -valley which contains Jellalabad, and the march between this and -Caubul, which we had now happily overcome, was unanimously allowed -to be the worst we had experienced. Our camels had certainly great -cause to complain, and they neglected not to do so; but man and beast -endured much on this march—the former a pecuniary, the latter a bodily -suffering—let naturalists decide which endured the heavier affliction.</p> - -<p>Jellalabad<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> is an insignificant place of itself, though situated in -a fertile valley, through which rolls the clear Caubul river, washing -the foundations of the city walls, and they certainly required no -impotent scavenger. It has been selected as a residence by the kings -of Caubul for the winter season, owing to the mildness of the climate, -from its depressed situation, (about two thousand feet above the sea;) -and this recommendation induced the commander-in-chief to select it -as winter quarters for the greater portion of the army<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> remaining in -Caubul during the ensuing cold season.</p> - -<p>According to the prevalent opinion, Jellalabad lays claim to -considerable antiquity, as it has been supposed to represent the -site of ancient Nysa. Numerous copper coins, as well as some curious -antiques, have been from time to time collected in the vicinity of this -place by the natives. Unfortunately, nearly all the gold and silver -coins and reliques have been melted down, as the natives themselves -admitted, and converted into bangles, nose-and-ear rings, or other -ornaments, for the dusky beauties of Jellalabad. Several copper -coins, bearing the name of Hermæus, king of Nysa, distinctly legible, -were bought amongst the country people. The inscription was in Greek -letters, and as follows:</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;">ΒΑΣΙΑΕΟΣ ἙΡΜΑΙΟΥ ΣΩΤΗΡΟΣ.</p> - -<p>Those of the Bactrian monarchs found in different parts of the country -are also in Greek; and the figures and hieroglyphics on the coins -have been converted, by erudite conjectures, into an endless variety -of meanings. Heaven, earth, and sea have been ransacked to discover -the symbolical allusions on a piece of grangrened copper; and the -half-effaced toes of a Bactrian savage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> were successively mistaken -for the signs of the Zodiac, the trident of Neptune, and a Barbarian -coronet.<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> By dint of much cleansing, the toes became apparent, then -appeared the legs; and over them, the body and intellectual countenance -of the tiresome Hermæus shone conspicuous, with a well-flattened nose, -and a pair of monstrous eyes, one of which seemed to leer with a -knowing expression of cunning on his indefatigable polishers.</p> - -<p>Near Jellalabad, we found encamped some of Runjeet's Mussulman troops, -which had accompanied Colonel Wade through the Khyber Pass, about three -months previously, when that distinguished officer advanced upon Ali -Musjid, and opened his batteries on that remarkable fortress. The siege -was conducted with such vigour, and so severe was the effect of the -cannonade, that the loss on the part of the besieged must have been -very serious, although the exact number of the sufferers could not be -ascertained. Colonel Wade's losses, in killed and wounded, during the -investment, amounted to something less than two hundred, which was -about the strength of half the garrison.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the course of the first night after the investment of Ali Musjid, -intelligence reached the garrison of the fall of Ghuzni, and of -the return of Mahomed Akbar with his forces from the mouth of the -Khyber towards Caubul. This news, it is supposed, coupled with the -<i>incalculable</i> losses of the previous day, induced the Khyberees to -evacuate Ali Musjid during the night. Next day, the fortress was -joyfully taken possession of by Col. Wade; and that celebrated despatch -was penned which informed Lord Auckland and the people of India that, -in consequence of "The capture of Ali Musjid, and the successful -advance of the British forces into Afghanistan, there remained no doubt -of the speedy dethronement of Dost Mahomed, and the favourable issue of -the Afghan campaign."</p> - -<p>Having quitted Jellalabad, we proceeded along the banks of the Caubul -river, which is here skirted for some distance by a stony plain, -over which the deadly simoom is said to be an occasional traveller -during the hot season. Five marches from Jellalabad brought us to the -gorge of the formidable Khyber Pass, the position occupied by Mahomed -Akbar at the opening of the campaign. The mountains through which -this defile runs are inhabited by the Khyberees, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> tribe who have -from time immemorial exacted tribute of all passengers through their -gloomy mountains, and Dost Mahomed himself considered it politic to -pay them annually a large sum to keep open the pass for traffic, as -well as to secure so formidable a barrier against any sudden freak of -his hereditary enemies in the Punjaub. These troublesome mountaineers -also succeeded in exacting contributions from the inhabitants of the -Peshawur district, in payment for a stream of water which issued from -the Khyber mountains, and supplied the frontier position of the Sikhs -at Futtehghur.</p> - -<p>Colonel Wade, in his passage through this defile, endeavoured to treat -with the chiefs of the Khyberees; and even bribed some of them, by a -considerable bonus, to ensure a free passage; but, subsequently, so -many presented themselves to demand bribes, that the negotiation bade -fair to become expensive, and it was evident that this hydra was more -amenable to steel than gold.</p> - -<p>Many of the chiefs had expected payment, for the use of their -productive mountains, on the return of the army through the Khyber -pass, but part of Colonel Wade's force had returned, and no bribes for -the chieftains had accompanied them. The Khyberees, therefore, were -much exasperated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> at the prospect of a failure of revenue; and, fearing -that if once the precedent of passing freely through their mountains -were established by the British, their black mail might henceforth be -reduced to a cipher, they vowed vengeance on the first intruders, and -had now an opportunity of trying the experiment.</p> - -<p>The entrance of the Khyber much resembles that of the Bolan pass, -except that the footing was the same as on a beach of shingles in the -former, and in the latter a platform of rock. On our flanks rose abrupt -rocks, during the first day's march, untenanted by animal or vegetable; -barrenness held undisputed rule.</p> - -<p>On the second day, we ascended a steep mountain by a path resembling -those cut on the Missourie and Landour range, and, descending by a -similar road of about ten feet in breadth and occasionally less, -entered a valley of some extent, sprinkled with several little villages -and some melancholy grainfields. Traversing this valley, we entered a -narrow, rocky defile, and following the course of a mountain torrent by -its narrow passage through the beetling rocks, arrived, unmolested by -the Khyberees, at Ali Musjid, after a march of about fifteen miles.</p> - -<p>This fort, which stands on a steep hill about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> three hundred yards -from the gorge of the stony defile above mentioned, had been occupied, -since Colonel Wade's departure, by an officer of Native Infantry with -a levy of Mooltanee recruits and a few sepoys. During the summer, the -place had been found so extremely unhealthy that a great portion of -the garrison died, and most of those who escaped were left in a very -weak state. Inside the fort itself there is no water, and this useful -article was brought by the garrison from a water-course and well, -about three hundred yards distant from the walls. As there were no -cannon in this formidable place, the possession of the water-course -became very precarious in case of the enemy attempting to cut off -the communication. The Khyberees, well aware of these disadvantages, -came down, latterly, nearly every night to attack the place; but -were gallantly repulsed by the little garrison as often as they -came, and frequently with considerable loss. Five days before our -arrival, a regiment of Sikhs, from Peshawur, amounting to nearly eight -hundred, although many were in a sickly state, had occupied a small -stockade,<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> on an eminence, about one mile distant from Ali Musjid, -for the garrison of which place they had brought supplies.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span></p> - -<p>During the night, this regiment was suddenly attacked by a force of -about two thousand Khyberees. The Sikhs defended themselves within -their stockade for above an hour, when their ammunition being spent, -and the enemy still pressing hard upon them, they quitted their -entrenchments in the hopes of effecting a retreat upon Ali Musjid. No -sooner had the unhappy men evacuated their stronghold than they were -surrounded by their merciless foes, and nearly the whole regiment was -destroyed. Not twenty men, it was believed, escaped to bear these -disastrous tidings to Peshawur. The little garrison in Ali Musjid had -been effectually prevented from attempting a diversion in favour of -their unfortunate allies, by a force of Khyberees, which were stationed -so as to intercept the communication between the fort and the stockade. -Had any part of the garrison, under such circumstances, quitted Ali -Musjid, they must inevitably have been overwhelmed by the Khyberees, -and in the darkness of night would, in all probability, have shared the -fate of the Sikhs; but no doubt was entertained in Ali Musjid that the -stockade would make good its defence.</p> - -<p>We arrived late in the afternoon, and encamped by this field of -recent slaughter, which presented a dreary spectacle; the effluvia -arising from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> half buried bodies and limbs of the Sikhs was almost -poisonous, though it seemed to give no inconvenience or nausea to the -Pariah dogs and vultures who were enjoying the ample repast provided -for them by and upon the lords of the creation.</p> - -<p>An attack on our camp being anticipated at this place, orders were -issued, prohibiting both officers and men from quitting the lines, and -a chain of sentries were posted, in the evening, on the summit of the -lower range of hills which encircled our camp.</p> - -<p>None of my baggage having made its appearance at nightfall, I fully -made up my mind to the loss of such part of the wreck as remained, -and seated myself, for the night, on a rock, where, having loaded -my pistols in anticipation of the Khyberees' visit, I awaited that -important event.</p> - -<p>It was a bright starlight night. All in camp were hushed in sleep, save -the guardians of the lines, who testified their vigilance by striking -the hours on a lugubrious sounding gong, or by the ringing of their -arms as the patrols or reliefs traversed the encampment.</p> - -<p>As I sat in contemplation of the still scene around me, the solemn -thought occurred that in a very few hours, this deathlike stillness -might be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> locked in that sleep to be disturbed only by the sound of -the last trumpet. That band of eight hundred Sikhs, which lay here but -five nights past, slept on, in all probability, (until aroused by the -war notes of the Khyberees,) with the same careless security that my -fellow-soldiers were now enjoying, and they awoke to be slain, in one -short hour—</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 17em;">"A thing</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">O'er which the raven flaps her fun'ral wing."</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>It is a strange sensation that interview which we are constrained to -hold with death; yet, with all the imaginary terrors in which he is -clad, the brave man readily meets him face to face. That those only -who are, morally speaking, prepared to die, fear not death, is too -wild a theory to be maintained: for many of us have seen the hardened -malefactor advance, with unfaltering step and fearless aspect, to the -scaffold, while in the ranks of the timid have been numbered some of -the best of mankind.</p> - -<p>And my fellow-countrymen here, who have, at least, been educated in -the constant hearing of the word of God—are they more fitted to die -than those miserable heathens were, whose carcases are now tainting -the atmosphere? Let those who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> are more competent to judge of such -matters decide. We, who, according to the declaration of our divines -and the boast of government, are sent out to retain possession of this -vast country, and to exhibit to the benighted natives the benefits and -example of Christianity, have performed the latter part of our ministry -in a singular manner, unless it is to be effected by daily instances -of blasphemy, drunkenness, and debauchery, that the natives of India -are enabled to witness. And yet they have been inapt scholars, for -we have failed signally in propagating amongst them the two former -accomplishments, and I question much if they have excelled us in the -latter. And yet let it not be imputed to us that we are the only, or -the greatest, transgressors. Let the traveller who has wandered through -the bazaars of Cairo, Bombay, Caubul, Delhi, or Canton, and marked -the character and occupation of the Mussulman, Gheber, and idolator, -compare them with the gin palaces, cafés, bull fights, and gardens or -thoroughfares of London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna, and Naples, and exult -(if candour will admit) in the moral advantages of civilized Europe. I -ask him not to visit the palaces of the aristocracy, or the church and -chapel; in the former he will gain no knowledge, and in the latter, -perhaps, too<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> much; for, of all sciences, theology has become the most -abstruse; and he who can recognise the immaculate precepts of Jesus of -Nazareth, amidst the fiery and relentless hostilities of modern sects, -must be an unhappy man. For my own part, the nice distinctions of party -in the early history of the church, the difficulty of deciding between -the mighty and learned differences of the Christian fathers, and the -inability to distinguish between the Homoosion and the Homouosion -quite disheartened me, at the outset, in the study of divinity; and -in modern days the fiery animosities of catholic and protestant, -transubstantiation, predestination, the gown and surplice riot, and -pulpit mendicity, drove me from the church portals to take refuge in -the book.</p> - -<p>But, after this peregrination of the globe, to return to India: is -it by the example of the better-educated classes, and the stern and -impartial dealing of justice, that the natives of the East are to form -an estimate of our superior wisdom and excellence? If so, let them -look to some in the high places of this land, and be staggered at the -display of erudition, wisdom, and righteousness; and let them judge -of our notions of rigorous justice from the policy which dictated the -expedition from which we are now returning.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> Have we not marched into -the kingdom of Caubul, and without any pretext or right, save the -"lex fortioris," wrested the sceptre from the hands of one monarch, -the favourite of his subjects, as far as any Afghan could be so, to -transfer it to those of another, (and one avowedly of a tyrannous -and execrable disposition,) after shedding the blood of those who -stepped forward in defence of him whom they probably conceived to be -their rightful sovereign? It can hardly be assumed that the desire of -establishing legitimate rights led us romantically forth on the Caubul -expedition; for the government of India held friendly intercourse with -Dost Mahomed for many years, without questioning his sovereign rights, -and only discovered how ill-used a man Shah Soojah had been, when Dost -Mahomed showed a disinclination to enter into hostilities with those -who were deemed to be averse to British influence.</p> - -<p>I had just come to the above conclusion, when a tramping behind aroused -me from my reverie; and starting up, I was agreeably surprised to find -that all my camels and servants had walked safely into camp. I rolled -myself in a cloak, and making a comfortable resting-place of the folds -of canvas composing the fly of the tent, soon became<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> insensible alike -to the immoralities of mankind and the intentions of the Khyberees.</p> - -<p>The morning sun, when I awoke, had burst brilliantly forth, even upon -the desolate and gloomy mountains of the Khyber, trying, but in vain, -to bid them look cheerful; and the night, contrary to all expectations, -had passed without an alarm. In the afternoon, the second column, under -General Thackwell, arrived at Ali Musjid; and orders were issued for -our march out of the Khyber Pass the following morning. In consequence -of the reports which had reached camp of the intention of the Khyberees -to attack us, the two companies of sappers and miners formed our -advanced guard, and the cavalry were disposed in single files on the -flanks of the baggage, with a rallying-party from each squadron in -rear, as a point of formation in case of a descent from the mountains.</p> - -<p>We marched, at daybreak, along the rugged course of a torrent, which -had now degenerated to a shallow, trickling stream. High, barren -mountains beetled above and almost over our track; and frequently -their bases approached so near to one another, that six could scarcely -ride abreast. At every step, we expected to see our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> enemies make -their appearance on the heights, from whence they might almost with -impunity have done us any injury which their long rifles, or juzzails, -were capable of inflicting; but, singularly enough, not an enemy was -to be seen, and we passed unmolested through the rugged defile. At -about six miles from the outlet, we encountered a large body of Sikh -troops occupying the road, whilst detachments were posted above them -on the heights. These belonged to the army of the frontier, stationed -at Peshawur. With their national modesty, they failed not to inform -us that they were our deliverers from the hands of the Khyberees; -and loudly proclaimed, that without their co-operation, we never -should have escaped from the jaws of the Khyber Pass. Nevertheless, -these heroes had taken the precaution of not advancing into the most -arduous part of the defile; and previously to the British advance into -Afghanistan, they had not been much acquainted with the geography of -these mountains.</p> - -<p>Towards the exit of the Pass, the mountains, though loftier and nearly -as abrupt, recede considerably from one another. On emerging from -them, we entered an extensive plain, and encamped near the fort of -Futtehghur, which was lately built by Runjeet Singh as a frontier -posi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>tion. Near its walls, a long line of dusky tents marked the -station of the Peshawur forces. Our lines were soon overrun by swarms -of inquisitive Sikh warriors, mounted on lean, weedy horses, and -carrying lances and beards of nearly equal length.</p> - -<p>We marched early the following morning. The ground we quitted was soon -occupied by the rear column, which also passed unobstructed through the -defile with the state-prisoners.</p> - -<p>The Sikhs raised a yell of execration and abuse at the sight of -Hadji Khan; but he, turning in his saddle with a smile of contempt, -exclaimed—</p> - -<p>"Yelp on, ye dastardly curs—it was not <i>your</i> prowess which made me a -captive! Many a time, at the head of a few brave Afghan followers, have -I made ye sing a different song; and, with Allah's help, I trust I may -live to do so again!"</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 7th of November, we crossed the rich valley of -Peshawur, and approached the city, having bidden adieu to the rocks and -deserts of Afghanistan without a single regret, and with the fervent -hope of never revisiting the realms of our ally, Shah Soojah.</p> - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> Most of the Company's cavalry regiments are composed of -Mussulmans.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> A few days after this skirmish, Dost Mahomed surrendered -himself to the envoy, and was sent a prisoner to Hindostan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> This was the pass of Khoord Caubul, afterwards memorable -in General Elphinstone's final retreat from Caubul.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> The well-known site of Sir Robert Sale's gallant defence.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> The coin which caused so much trouble and conjecture is -now in my possession.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> The stockades are made of loose stones and beams.</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p> - -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></p> - -<p class="center">PESHAWUR—SKIRMISHES WITH THE KHYBEREES ACROSS THE -INDUS—MANIKYALA—THE PASSAGE OF THE JHELUM.</p> - - -<p>The approaches to the city from the north-east are commanded by a large -fort, recently completed by the assistance of some French officers, and -under the eye of General Avitabilè.</p> - -<p>The fort is surrounded by a dry ditch, and constructed on modern -principles of fortification, but placed in such convenient proximity -to the city, as to obviate the necessity of opening trenches and -labouring at parallels in case of a siege. Passing immediately under -this stronghold, we wound along the outside of the low mud-walls which -surround Peshawur, and encamped on its Eastern front. The city seemed -of enormous ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>tent, and contained, as we were told, more than twelve -thousand houses within its walls; but certainly the greater part of -them were better adapted for pigsties than dwelling-houses.</p> - -<p>The government of this district was in the hands of General Avitabilè, -an Italian officer, who had served for a long time under Runjeet Singh, -and had been raised by him to distinction and wealth. His government, -although severe, was generally allowed to have kept the savage -neighbours of the adjacent mountains in more terror and subjection -than any former governor was enabled to attain. According to Runjeet's -code, no capital punishment was inflicted on the Sikhs by law; but this -was in no way applicable to the marauders dwelling in the hills which -border Peshawur, on whom, as well as over the Mussulman population -of Peshawur, the governor occasionally endeavoured to make up for -Runjeet's misplaced leniency. Numerous examples of punishment were -presented to our view near the city walls on the high palm-trees, to -which were appended strings of such acorns as Trois Echelles and Petit -Andrè loved to adorn the oaks of Plessis les Tours with in the days -of Louis Onze. On every side of the city, were seen well-furnished -gibbets, or frail and wasted relics of humanity,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> strung upon beams, -nailed between the blighted palms. Those who had recently been promoted -to their exalted situations were favourites with the kites and -vultures, whose discordant screams of health and prosperity to Governor -Avitabilè, whilst circling round their hideous repast, were gloomily -answered by the rattling and clatter of some well-picked skeletons, as -they swung to and fro in the evening blast. Disgusting as these objects -seemed, we must nevertheless, according to the opinion and quotation of -an American traveller, hail them as testimonies of civilization. If an -appeal to the worst passions of mankind be a test of civilization, Mr. -Willis is in the right; but I confess I have felt much more gratified -in seeing a rude and uneducated Hindoo turn with loathing from the -execution of a criminal about to be blown from a cannon than I have at -the exhibition of thousands of my countrymen struggling for places, -and paying high prices for seats, to witness the protracted, dying -struggles of a malefactor and fellow-sinner.</p> - -<p>In Afghanistan, no sooner is the light applied to the touchhole of -the cannon,<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> than the limbs of the victims are distributed to the -winds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> heaven; but in England, in Christian England, where societies -for preventing cruelty to animals have been established, and rewards -offered for the speediest method of ending the sufferings of beasts, -the agonies and struggles of a fellow-creature, whilst undergoing a -death, (which, according to the letter of the law, is not expected to -be instantaneous,<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>) are deemed a fit subject for the entertainment -of the multitude; for it is notorious that Englishmen prefer attending -an execution to any other resort of public amusement. Yet this -disgusting spectacle, this barbarous relic of despotic authority, is -to be exhibited and justified solely on the plea of example. I cannot -bring myself to believe that one solitary mortal was ever deterred -from committing a murder by the fact of his having witnessed a public -execution; whereas the very notoriety has been known to excite men to -earn the vile publicity.</p> - -<p>At Peshawur, the systematic method of suspen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>sion <i>by the neck</i> was not -universally adopted, for the fancy of the executioner was occasionally -shown by a varied figure of victims suspended alternately by the head -and heels. At Peshawur, also, has been revived the nearly obsolete, but -classical, punishment of skinning alive. The executioner begins this -operation by raising the skin on the soles of the feet, which is then -torn in strips upwards, and the wretched creature is left vainly to -wish for the relief which death sometimes does not afford within two -hours of the infliction.</p> - -<p>Cutting off the arms and legs, and steeping the stumps in hot oil, -putting out the eyes, or docking the ears of the culprits, are the -milder corrections for minor delinquencies.</p> - -<p>I shall not attempt to deny that the daring atrocities which have been -perpetrated require to be restrained with a strong hand, and punished -with death, but the protraction of suffering cannot, I think, be -exculpated. If life must be taken, let it be done without parade or -procession, and, above all, let it be instantaneous.</p> - -<p>On the evening of our arrival, the governor entertained the officers of -the first column with a banquet and fête, at his palace in Peshawur. -The edifice and gardens glittered with brilliant illu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>minations, and a -splendid display of fireworks was the prelude to the banquet. The table -groaned under a weight of food which far surpassed in quantity any -accumulation of the kind of which I have partaken; but, alas, I must -confess my utter ignorance of the vocabulary of the cuisine; and though -I was fortunate enough to sit by the side of a man who enumerated every -dish, and dignified some with very uncommon names, I was too absent or -too stupid to remember them.</p> - -<p>Many complained of the want of recherche of his cook; but possibly he -conceived that, after the experience we had recently had of scarce and -coarse fare, dainties and the more abstruse arts of cookery would have -been wasted upon us. For my own part, I confess that the paraphernalia -of the surrounding gibbets haunted me so much at the table that I could -hardly take my eyes off an immense cone of rice, piled on a huge dish -in front of the master of the feast, and as the snowy covering was -shaken off, I could scarcely persuade myself that the boiled kid and -trussed-up capons were not some novel delicacies artistically carved -from a skinned criminal!</p> - -<p>The feast being ended, we were ushered into a room above-stairs, where -a circle of Nautch girls were squatted round the room, who entertained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> -us with a repetition of those monotonous chants and attitudes which are -so generally popular amongst the Orientals.</p> - -<p>Some of the women, especially the Punjaubees, were pretty: all had -fine lustrous eyes, and some fair and almost clear olive complexions; -but cocoa-nut oil, beetel nut, vermillion, henna, and black paint, -did their utmost to detract from the gifts of Nature. However, we -had been so long debarred from the sight of female charms, that few -had any reason to be fastidious or backward in admiration of such -novelties, and none of the damsels reckoned shyness or obstinacy as -accomplishments.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 10th of November, the Sappers and Miners, and -two companies of Native Infantry, were detached to Ali Musjid in the -Khyber pass, as an escort to a quantity of camel-loads of supplies -of provision and ammunition for the use of the garrison. Having -performed this duty, on their return from Ali Musjid they were suddenly -attacked by a swarm of Khyberees. A party of Sikhs who accompanied -the detachment, either from treachery or fear, at the first alarm -severed the leading-strings of the camels, and thus threw the baggage -into a state of hopeless confusion. The Khyberees taking advan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>tage -of this disorder, ham-strung many of the camels, and thus secured the -loads as a booty. The escort having with some difficulty, and the -loss of a few men, succeeded in repulsing their daring assailants, -returned to Peshawur, minus about five hundred camels and a quantity of -baggage, which fell into the hands of their enemies. The commissariat, -previously much straitened for carriage, now declared that they had not -the means of carrying the supplies requisite for the march.</p> - -<p>A detachment, consisting of all the infantry of the column, (altogether -six companies, including one of the European Regiment,) were now -ordered to march to Ali Musjid, and occupy that fort, until relieved -by a party from the army in Afghanistan. Colonel Wheler's brigade of -Native Infantry was ordered to move from Jellalabad into the Khyber -pass; and thus the defile being entered by the two forces from opposite -sides, would be swept throughout, and a fair probability presented -itself of chastising and bringing to terms the daring banditti.</p> - -<p>Colonel Wheler's advanced guard was attacked by a body of Khyberees -at the crest of the steep descent into the valley of Lumdeekhana, but -the marauders, seeing the columns advance in force,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> soon gave way, -and retired to the interior of the hills. Subsequently, some of the -Khyberee chiefs came down to hold a conference with Colonel Wheeler, -their followers burning fire with the Sepoys in token of amity; and -much regret was expressed for the injuries which had been sustained -at the hands of those chiefs who <i>had not</i> been bribed. On arrival at -Ali Musjid, Colonel Wheeler found the detachments from Peshawur in the -fort, to which they had penetrated with a few supplies, after another -skirmish with the Khyberees, in which, however, the marauders were -roughly handled.</p> - -<p>The chiefs had promised that on the payment annually of one lakh of -rupees, the passage of the Khyber should be kept open to the British; -and it was supposed that matters were finally arranged with the -Khyberees, but upon terms which did not sound agreeably in a soldier's -ear, though, politically speaking, they might be deemed expedient.</p> - -<p>Matters having been brought to the conditions named above, by those -who were empowered to treat, the infantry brigade, accompanied by the -detachments from our column, which had been relieved, now proceeded -towards Peshawur. The troops had advanced but a short distance from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> -Ali Musjid, when a swarm of Khyberees once more rushed from the -heights, and, pouncing upon the baggage, succeeded in carrying off -a number of camels, principally laden with the officers' baggage, -which they drove up one of the numerous ravines communicating with -the main passage of the defile. The rear-guard, which had probably -been overlooked by the plunderers, immediately gave chase; and having -been reinforced by parties from the detachments which occupied the -heights flanking the ravine, who had witnessed the theft, came up with -the Khyberees, and having committed considerable havoc amongst the -traitorous rascals, succeeded in recovering some of the camels and -their burdens. The troops then proceeded on their route to Peshawur, -which was reached without any further molestation.</p> - -<p>Such was the state in which we abandoned Afghanistan. Having marched -victoriously throughout the country, and thrust a monarch upon his -reluctant subjects, the ill-fated Shah Soojah, with ill-disguised -apprehension, beheld himself placed on the throne of a hostile country -supported only by too much weakened British regiments, a few sepoys, -and a small body of half-disciplined Hindoostan levies. The Bombay -division, on their return march, had found an enemy in nearly every<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> -mud-fort, and met with a spirited resistance from Mehrab Khan at -Khelat; whilst the Khyber Pass, the direct gate of communication with -our far-distant provinces, closed behind the Bengal column as soon -as it had crossed the threshold. The savage and marauding Khyberees, -reckless of all faith and treaties, continued to commit numerous deeds -of rapine and violence, thus amply proving, had any proof been required -of such a self-evident fact, that these treacherous bandits were only -to be restrained from their hereditary profession of plunder whilst -their mountain-fastnesses were being actually swept by an overwhelming -military force; yet, in opposition to these stubborn arguments, -political agents were yet to be found who advocated, and endeavoured to -adopt, conciliatory measures.</p> - -<p>In Dost Mahomed's time, the Khyberees had little or no temptation -offered them to infringe their agreement; but the sight of the baggage -which accompanied our column was too much for their resolution.</p> - -<p>The garrison of Ali Musjid, having been left in unenviable quarters, -and our fellow-soldiers in Afghanistan to enjoy themselves as they -might in their isolated situation, we prepared to resume our march, and -traverse the remaining four hun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>dred miles, which lay between us and -our advanced posts on the frontier of Ferozepore.</p> - -<p>The infantry detachments, which had lately been engaged in the Khyber -Pass, had not rejoined, but followed shortly afterwards, whilst the -first column proceeded onwards through the valley of Peshawur.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 20th of November, we proceeded on our march, and -encamped a few miles distant from the city. At this place, in the broad -daylight, a party of plunderers from some adjacent hills came down and -carried off many camels, which were grazing at little more than a mile -from the lines. The rear-guard of the Lancers, immediately on the alarm -being given, turned out in pursuit, and from a small knoll in camp, we -had a favourable view of the chase.</p> - -<p>The robbers, amounting to about forty, having got a good start, were -pushing for the hills, about five miles distant from camp, and driving -the camels before them at a round pace, pricking the bewildered animals -forward with the points of their lances and cimeters. The dragoons -gained steadily on them; but a few men of the irregular cavalry hung -closely on their flanks and rear, and although they were too few<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> to -obstruct effectually the retreat of the banditti, yet they compelled -them to abandon several stray and restive camels. As they neared the -hills, the eagerness of the pursuers redoubled, and the camels dropped -fast to the rear, bearing on their flanks severe marks from the weapons -of their merciless captors. At length, the robbers, with the residue -of their booty, were close to the foot of the hills, the dragoons were -still half a mile behind, and the irregular horsemen, who were less -than two hundred yards off, drew up, and gave a parting fire from -their matchlocks, but without effect. With a shout of exultation, -the mountaineers wheeled about to return the fire, when two gallant -fellows from the irregular horse, dashing round their flank, threatened -an impediment to their line of retreat. The chances seemed, for a -moment, to be against the bandits, for none of them appeared willing to -encounter their daring opponents, and whilst wavering at the foot of -the heights, the dragoons had come within a few hundred yards. Choosing -the least of two evils, the marauders, driving the remainder of their -booty before them, rushed, <i>en masse</i>, upon the unfortunate irregulars, -who were unhorsed, but unwounded, ascended the hills, and dispersed in -many directions amongst the gullies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> and ravines which intersected the -face of the mountains.</p> - -<p>Barely a dozen camels were altogether secured by the marauders out -of nearly a hundred which had been seized. During the pursuit, many -villagers from the plains turned out to offer assistance; for these -mountaineers are unfriendly neighbours to the agriculturists, and -scruple not, when urged by necessity, to take whatever may be useful to -them from the unwarlike and helpless dwellers in the plains.</p> - -<p>From hence, crossing an extensive plain, we encamped near the banks of -the Caubul river on some greensward, and under a grove of trees.</p> - -<p>This was a most luxurious day's residence, and the prospect was more -English than anything we had hitherto seen in the East, or perhaps -I should have rather said, Irish, for the mud huts of the country -bordering Peshawur bear a close resemblance to Irish cabins, although -the unclean animal, that prominent feature at the threshold of most -dwellings in the Emerald Isle, is here considered an unwelcome guest.</p> - -<p>A traveller desirous of conciliating the natives of this country -must needs be choice in the selection of animal food; for in this -district—from Peshawur to the Jhelum river—dwell the Mus<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>sulman -population of the country, whose abhorrence is a pig; across that -boundary the imperious Sikhs look with pious horror on beef-eaters, for -one of their deities is a bull. The pea-fowl and pigeon are also held -in much veneration by the Sikhs, notwithstanding the ungodly voice of -the bird of Juno, and the destructive habits of the sacred pigeons. -The allurements of immortality, however, compensate for the loss of -temporal possessions, and the depredations of the sacred fowl are -viewed with indifference, and by the more devout, with satisfaction.</p> - -<p>On leaving the Caubul river, we passed again over tracts of desolate -plains and barren hills, until we reached once more the banks of the -Indus, on the 26th of November, at the fortress of Attok.</p> - -<p>About a mile above Attok, the Caubul river forms a junction with the -Indus, and the united streams rush with great rapidity in a deep and -narrow channel under the walls of that ancient and gloomy fortress. A -temporary bridge of boats had been thrown across the Indus, opposite -to the gates of Attok, which enabled us to cross the river without -much delay, at the end of the morning's march. At this season, the -breadth of the river did not exceed one hundred and fifty yards, and -the cavalry crossed the bridge without dismounting.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> From the approach -on the Caubul side, Attok presented rather a formidable appearance, -with its extensive and massive parapets frowning over the dark floods -beneath; but at the junction of the two rivers, about one mile higher -up, a passage might easily be effected with a pontoon train, where the -guns of the fort would be nearly inoffensive. When once landed on the -left bank, the fortress would not present a very formidable obstacle, -for the hills immediately above the town afford an excellent position, -whereon batteries might be placed which would command both the town and -fort at a range of something less than six hundred yards.</p> - -<p>The Sikhs were very jealous of admitting any of the officers within the -fortress; but as the best view of the place was obtained from the hills -above mentioned, this reluctance on their part did not cause us any -disappointment, and the much-vaunted stronghold of Attok was generally -admitted to be a fortress of no importance, with regard to its present -strength and site. Had a strong detached work been placed on the upper -range of hills, it might have rendered the position more tenable, -although the whole rampart of the place being exposed to view from the -opposite bank, must soon be made to succumb to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> stroke of a heavy -battery. Such a catastrophe, however, could never have been expected -from the Afghan quarter, as their battering trains are not of the most -effective description.</p> - -<p>A merchant from India had arrived here with wines and other luxuries, -which, in addition to some we had procured at Peshawur from another -enterprising merchant, <i>en route</i> for Caubul, introduced us once more -to those dainties with which previous experience had taught many of us -cheerfully to dispense.</p> - -<p>Proceeding on our march from hence, I looked in vain for the fertile -land of which I had heard and read; the appearance of the country near -our line of march was but little superior to Afghanistan.</p> - -<p>The tract between Peshawur and the Jhelum river is almost entirely -occupied by the Mussulman population of the Sikh territories, from -whom Runjeet Singh levied his Mussulman regiments, which are generally -supposed to have been the most efficient of his army.</p> - -<p>The natives of this part of the country are not supposed to bear any -particular good will to their neighbouring masters, and were kept -in strict subjection by Runjeet. To quell their martial spirit, and -diminish the chances of a revolt,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> they were restricted from wearing -arms, whilst in the Punjaub almost every Sikh may be seen following the -plough with the singular encumbrance of sword and shield—at least, in -that part of the country bordering on the Mussulman districts.</p> - -<p>Should a rupture ensue between the British and the Sikhs, there is -little doubt that if the war be carried into the heart of the Punjaub, -this ill-will on the part of the Mussulmans may be turned to our -advantage; for it is generally supposed that the immunity offered to -their religion and habits under the British rule, would induce them to -prefer it to their present state of subjection.</p> - -<p>Six marches from Attok brought us to the celebrated Tope of Manikyala, -in which a vast quantity of coins were recently discovered.</p> - -<p>This place is supposed to be the Bucephalia of Alexander's time, by -Mr. Ventura. Its modern name of Manikyala may appear to warrant such a -supposition; but as the Bucephalia was placed on the right bank of the -Jhelum, to command the passage of the river, Sir Alexander Burnes has -objected to the site. This I deem an inconclusive objection, for the -reasons already assigned in page 214.</p> - -<p>The monument at Manikyala is a massive spheroidal building of stone -and brick. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> perimeter of its base exceeds three hundred yards; -its altitude was computed at something more than fifty. On reaching -the summit, by the aid of some rude and time-worn steps, we found an -aperture, resembling a dry well, which descended apparently to the -foundation of the building. This well was searched, some years ago, by -General Ventura, and at the bottom was found a box, containing many -valuable coins, and also a phial, filled with some liquid.</p> - -<p>Whilst peering into this cavity, a tall Sikh, who had arrived on the -same spot, stood watching me with that inquisitive stare which, at -first blush, excites the sufferer to anger, but which experience had -now taught me meant nothing more than simple curiosity.</p> - -<p>"Has the sahib discovered any curiosities below?" demanded the -intruder, as I rose from my occupation.</p> - -<p>"No; but perhaps you can enlighten me on the subject of this huge pile, -and as to your native traditions of the architect and his intentions," -I replied, in mongrel Hindustani, which this native was intelligent -enough to comprehend.</p> - -<p>"I was here some years ago," he answered, "when General Ventura -searched this well and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> discovered many ancient pieces of gold, and -silver, and copper. The mound has stood here many centuries, before -the Sikhs possessed this country, and is generally supposed by the -country-people to have been erected by Shah Sikunder (Alexander the -Great) as a monument over some one of his generals, who, probably, fell -in battle near this spot. Our architects declare that the monument was -of a foreign origin."</p> - -<p>Such was the pith of the information given by my heathen companion, -as we descended together from the building by the rude staircase, -constructed, perhaps, by the hands of Macedonian engineers and masons, -and trodden by the foot of the invincible Alexander, whose mighty deeds -and conquests, although they have transmitted the deathless name of -the conqueror to posterity, have failed in assigning a definite spot -to his achievements here, or in marking the limit of his advances -into Hindostan—if, indeed, he ever did penetrate as far as those -realms—if, alas! that after a whole life devoted to the pursuit of -the phantom, Ambition, (which was, probably, nearer the grasp of the -Macedonian than that of any subsequent devotee,) the attainment of -his favourite project, the conquest of the East, should<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> at this day -remain a matter of uncertainty. Such is fame, and so much worth, that -gnawing and unaccountable desire to live in the memories of posterity, -which animates alike the poet, the statesman, the soldier, and the -philosopher, to a life of labour, anxiety, hardships, or study, that -his name may survive when the body has partaken of the common lot of -mortality, and lies insensible alike to the worms which are gnawing the -flesh, and its fellow worms above who are probably toiling to destroy -that reputation which was the fond and nurturing object of its earthly -career.</p> - -<p>The keenest satire on ambition which I have read, lies in the -observation of Horace—</p> - -<p> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Expende Annibalem, quot libras in duce summo invenies?"</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>But let the cynic sneer his fill at the desire of distinction during -life, and the cravings for a name with posterity; such is the -indefinable condition of the animal, man, that I firmly believe no -mortal ever existed who could despise the prospect of their attainment. -Such are the uncertainties which attend human attainments and -foresight, that a heathen fanatic has, at one fell swoop, destroyed the -labours and monuments of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> ages of literature,<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> and left the very -existence of many sages of antiquity to be called in question: and the -stupendous pyramids, on which the suns and storms of unknown ages have -beaten, still rear their aged crests into the serene sky, whilst the -object and even the names of their projectors remain a matter of doubt -and dispute.</p> - -<p>Whilst indulging these sombre reflections, at the foot of the Tope of -Manikyala, my reverie was interrupted by the approach of a Sikh, who -displayed some coins for sale, which the first glance assured me were -spurious. Reader, be not alarmed; after this dissertation on the novel -topic of the vanity of human forethought, I will not indulge you with a -treatise on the still more uncommon theme of dishonesty. I will merely -add, that I returned the Sikh his coins, telling him that they were -worth a trifle under their actual weight in copper, and then adjourned -to a breakfast which the impatience of two brother officers had made -cold and scanty. The village of Manikyala has been so completely -denuded of antiquities, by the diligence of European tra<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>vellers, that -not a coin of any value was found there by any of our party.</p> - -<p>As we proceeded, a barren country still surrounded us, intersected, -in the most singular manner, by deep ravines, which appeared to have -been caused by heavy floods from the mountains. So frequent, deep, and -precipitous are these rents in the soil, that even were the natives -ever so industriously disposed, the culture of such a surface would be -attended with great disadvantage, both on account of the infertility of -the soil, and the difficulty of tillage and communication.</p> - -<p>Having descended into the dry course of a river, we pursued its sandy -track nearly to the banks of the Jhelum river, which is better known -under its classical name of Hydaspes.</p> - -<p>About thirty large flat bottomed boats had been collected at the small -town of Jhelum, on the right bank, for the transport of troop baggage, -as also for the soldiers themselves, if it were deemed requisite; but -the river was supposed to be fordable about half a mile above the ferry -of Jhelum, and the ford, which was about four hundred yards in width -and very tortuous, was designated by several bamboos placed upright in -the stream to mark the course to be pursued in crossing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span></p> - -<p>An officer was sent to report on the practicability of the ford, -(the officials from the quartermaster-general's department having -already crossed in boats,) who crossed and recrossed on horseback, -and reported the greatest depth to be about four feet, and that his -horse had kept his legs firmly during the passage. The Lancers then -received orders from the brigadier to cross on horseback, and entered -the river by sections of threes. The advanced party, keeping close to -the canes which marked the ford, reached the opposite bank in safety; -but the mass of the column, when within about a hundred yards of the -left shore, lost the indications of the ford, which had probably been -destroyed by the advance, and, on diverging from the track, the greater -part were immediately out of their depth. The line of demarcation -being thus trampled over and lost sight of, nearly the whole regiment, -yielding imperceptibly with the current, got below the proper ford, -and, seeing no further marks to direct them, pushed indiscriminately -for the nearest landing-place. First one poor fellow, on a weak horse, -was swept away by the current; and, unable to extricate himself, -encumbered as he was with heavy accoutrements, soon lost his seat, and -being struck by the horse in his efforts to stem<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> the current, sunk, -and was seen no more. Soon afterwards several more, mostly mounted -on animals which were too feeble<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> to swim with the heavy weights -on their backs, were seen struggling in vain to make headway, until, -exhausted with their endeavours, they parted company; and the Dragoons, -unless strong swimmers, were soon overcome, whilst their horses, when -freed from their weights, swam wildly down the river. Amongst the -victims was Captain Hilton, commanding the fourth squadron, who, being -a heavy man, unable to swim, and mounted on a weak old Arab charger, -sunk almost without a struggle. The confusion which prevailed may -be easily imagined, and it appears wonderful that so many managed -to reach the shore. The boats employed in the transport of baggage, -being all heavily laden, could move but slowly towards the scene of -disaster, which was more than half a mile distant from most of them, -and it was only by working up near the bank and thence pushing into -the stream that they could have reached the spot; but they were unable -to do so until all was nearly over, and few, if any, escaped by their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> -assistance. Those men who had succeeded in reaching the shore now -vociferated confused advice to their comrades in the water, each loudly -recommending some designated place of safety, whilst those struggling -with the current were unable to catch a single word of advice or -command from their numerous advisers, on account of the rushing and -stunning din of the stream, and the clatter of surrounding voices. -When the greater part of the regiment had reached the shore, a body of -the strongest swimmers stripped themselves of their encumbrances, and -hurried to the assistance of their comrades, many of whom were nearly -exhausted by their efforts to keep above water, or benumbed with the -cold, which, at eight o'clock on a December morning, is severe, even in -this latitude.</p> - -<p>Numbers of camels, which had attempted a ford rather higher up the -river, with heavy loads on their backs, had been carried off their -legs, and these, floating down the river amongst the soldiers, were the -means of saving many a poor fellow's life, by affording him something -to cling to until he could be rescued from that precarious situation by -the vigorous exertions of his fellow-soldiers.</p> - -<p>Soon after the regiment had crossed, it was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> mustered on the banks, and -Captain Hilton and ten men found missing. The bodies of Captain Hilton -and six men were found in the course of the morning, and interred -close to the river, but the bodies of the remaining sufferers were not -recovered during our halt at the fatal Jhelum.</p> - -<p>Had we been compelled to cross this river in the face of an enemy, -the ford could not have been more boldly attempted than on this -occasion.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> Because a single horseman had crossed in safety it was -deemed advisable that a whole regiment should do the same, neglecting -the probability of the alluvial deposits in the bed of the river -being trampled to the consistency of a quicksand by such constant and -heavy pressure. As a sufficient number of boats had been collected -to transport the whole regiment, with their horses, across the river -within the space of a few hours, it is difficult to assign a reason for -plunging into so deep and uncertain a ford, with a rapid current and an -unstable footing.</p> - -<p>Major Hough, the diffuse historian of Indian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> warfare, has informed us -"that the commander-in-chief and staff regarded the distressing scene -with feelings of the deepest commiseration;" which must have been very -consolatory to the drowning men, and doubtless the survivors are duly -grateful to his excellency for such a flattering display of humanity.</p> - - - - - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> This mode of execution has also been practised by the -princes of many independent states of Hindostan.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> In 1842 I witnessed a military execution at Merut, of a -private of the Horse Artillery. The numerous spectators present can -bear witness to the prolonged sufferings of the criminal. The rope -being adjusted, one native pushed him off a low cart under the gibbet, -whilst two others tugged at the rope to hoist him up. The convulsive -writhings of the sufferer long haunted me; they lasted for nearly -twenty minutes.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> The library of Alexandria was destroyed by the Arab, -Amrou, a few years after Mahomet. Abulphuragicus Dynast., p. 115. This -is questioned by Gibbon, (!) vol. iii. p. 478, quarto edition.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> The greater part of our horses had not regained much -strength after the sorrowful work and starvation they had encountered -during the recent campaign.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> In the month of April, upwards of two hundred years ago, -Jehangire's army forded this river with a force of Rajaputs opposing -them. Many were drowned, and most of the remainder fell into the hands -of their enemies. (Dow's India, vol. iii., p. 81.)</p></div></div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span></p> -<p class="ph2"><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p> - -<p class="center">CROSS THE CHENAB AND RAVEE—ARRIVE AT LAHORE—LAHORE—CEREMONIAL -VISITS—REVIEW OF THE SIKH ARMY—RECROSS THE SUTLEJ—MARCH TO -CANTONMENTS.</p> - - -<p>Having thus floundered through the Jhelum, we had passed the boundary -of the Mussulmaun, and entered the Sikh division—i.e., the Punjaub. -The Punjaub is bounded on the north-west by the Jhelum river, and not -by the Attok, as usually marked in the charts. The five rivers, from -which it derives its name,<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> are the Sutlej, the Beeas, the Ravee, -the Chenab, and the Jhelum.</p> - -<p>The country did not exhibit any sign of improvement until we neared -the Chenab, being mostly overgrown with long dry grass, not un<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>like -that which covers some of the prairies of America. But it cannot be a -matter of surprise, that the inhabitants should pay more attention to -war than agriculture; had it been otherwise, they would have sown only -for the hardy and warlike inhabitants of the neighbouring mountains. -A nation must be great in war ere it can hope to flourish in commerce -and agriculture, or the nest will surely be robbed ere the progeny -be full-grown and able to defend themselves—or rather, capable of -learning that useful art.</p> - -<p>The cold of a winter's morning in India, though much less severe, of -course, than that of more northern latitudes, is still very smartly -felt on the line of march, for it is necessary to march in the morning, -to enable the cattle to go out and graze after their work is over.</p> - -<p>Mounted on a charger, who is forbidden to deviate from a walk during -a morning's march of twelve or fifteen miles, with the feet in a -pair of heavy iron stirrups, and a keen blast driving the cold dust -through the half-frozen patient, is the daily lot of the soldier on a -winter's campaign in the East. With anxiety he looks forward through -the morning's gloom for the first peep of dawn; but no sooner has the -merciless sun attained a few degrees of elevation, than he exhibits -a fiery<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> aspect which soon renders the shadow of a tree or a fold of -canvas by far the most interesting object in the view. Whilst the -European, clad in his tight and cumbersome costume and accoutrements, -toils wearily onward under the fiery noon-day heat on a long march, -the Asiatic warrior, divesting himself of a portion of his flowing -dress, twirls the light material round his head, and under its grateful -shadow encounters lightly and cheerfully the task which lies before -him. The graceful Oriental turban serves the invaluable purposes of -guarding the head from sun and cold, of defying the edge of the sabre, -and arresting the progress of a bullet; the European head-dress answers -no useful purpose: cannot the ingenuity of England's hatters suggest -some plausible scheme for defending the susceptible sculls of their -countrymen serving in India? Verily, if they cannot accomplish that -object, they deserve, and may they continue to enjoy, the imputation of -insanity.<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a></p> - -<p>Five marches from the Jhelum brought us to the banks of the Chenab; of -the depth, rapidity, and means of transit over which, about as varied -and accurate reports had been received as were transmitted on our -arrival at the Jhelum.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p> - -<p>On reaching the Chenab river, we encamped within a few yards of the -bank; and as the fortunate discovery was soon made that an abundance -of boats were in readiness, the greater part of the baggage was taken -across in them during the day, and next morning the regiment embarked.</p> - -<p>The camels, when unloaded, as also the horses, with a native groom (or -"syce," as they are termed) on each, were enabled to cross at a ford, -about two miles down the river, which was more than four feet in depth. -These natives, being light weights and unencumbered with trappings—for -the saddles and all their weighty concomitants travelled in boats—took -the horses across the ford without any accident or difficulty. Nor was -there any risk in the experiment, for most Orientals swim soon after -they have learned to walk.</p> - -<p>The country now assumed a much more cheerful and civilized appearance: -crops rose luxuriantly on each side of our line of march; and the -well-inhabited towns and villages told of an abundant, though not a -very wealthy<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> people, for the mud houses were little, if at all, -better than those of Hindostan.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span></p> - -<p>Ofttimes, the massive and circular tomb of some Mussulman, now -falling fast to decay, (or in many instances, the ruthless hand of -time, having evidently been assisted by the unsparing jealousy of the -bigoted Sikhs,) glared upon us from out its gloomy and sepulchral -shade of banyans. Since the date which some of the buildings tried to -commemorate, the haughty Mussulman conqueror had yielded to the more -arrogant Sikh idolator, who must soon give place, in the inevitable -cycle of events, to a milder and more tolerant power.</p> - -<p>These white and spectral monuments failed not in their object of -attracting observation, whilst the fretted and ostentatious carving -apprised us of the earthly resting-place of bones probably belonging -to some proud grandee, who had played his little part on the stage of -life, and whose deeds done in the flesh, though failing to rescue his -name from oblivion, had succeeded in earning a monument to become an -asylum of refuge for rats, owls, and jackdaws. This is as it should be, -when—</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 25%;"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Some proud son of man returns to earth,</span><br /> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unknown to glory, but upheld by birth."</span><br /> -</p> - -<p>Since leaving Attok, we had been accompanied by an escort of Sikhs, -under Sirdar Lana Singh,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> who, it was expected, would have met the -commander-in-chief on the frontier with an invitation to visit -Maharajah Kurruk Singh (the reigning monarch of the country) at Lahore. -Lana Singh being vested with no such authority, our original route, -which lay through Lahore, was altered, and the force proceeded by a -road which left the capital about fifteen miles to the East.</p> - -<p>With a nation so punctilious in points of etiquette as the Sikhs had -hitherto been, the fact of allowing the British forces to approach -within so short a distance of their capital, without sending a -deputation to wait on the commander-in-chief with an invitation to -their court, betokened a slight which told plainly the ambiguous -relations existing between the Lahore government and the British. The -most probable cause of this omission was, that both the authority and -intellect of Kurruk Singh being feeble, and the court itself in a -turbulent and unsettled state, the ministers were unwilling that the -British should be eye-witnesses of their present state of anarchy.</p> - -<p>Dhian Singh, the prime minister, had always testified an aversion to -the British, even in the days of Runjeet, according to Mr. Prinsep's -account, and there is little doubt that this marked neglect was owing -to his suggestion. Had they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> valued, or wished to court our friendship, -as the old Lion of Lahore had ever done,<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> they would not have been -thus tardy with their invitation, or at least, they would have made -some apologies for the maharajah's inability, from ill-health or some -other invention, to be honoured with an interview.</p> - -<p>On the present occasion, we had arrived within fifteen miles of -Lahore without any communication from the durbar, and at a small town -named Budee, when late in the afternoon a party deputed by the Sikh -government entered our camp, bringing the commander-in-chief the tardy -courtesy of a request to visit the capital. Instructions having been -received from the governor-general of India, conveying a desire that -Sir John Keane should, if possible, visit the maharajah, the scanty -ceremony was overlooked, and the commander-in-chief, escorted by the -16th Lancers, a troop of horse artillery, and a few native infantry, -diverged from the route, and proceeded next morning towards Lahore, -whilst the second column, under General Thackwell, continued their -route by the more direct road to Ferozepore.</p> - -<p>Having made two marches over an uninteresting country, speckled with -patches of long dry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> grass and underwood, we arrived on the banks of -the Ravee, and encamped close to the walls of Jehangire's tomb.</p> - -<p>The city of Lahore lay about four miles distant, stretched along some -gently rising ground on the opposite shore of the Ravee, but we could -barely discern its locality owing to the haziness of the atmosphere. -It was Christmas day, and decidedly the least merry one I can remember -having passed. The gloom rivalled that of London at this period of the -year; the clouds occasionally indulged us with a smart shower of rain, -which, under canvas, is the most uncomfortable weather imaginable, -especially when accompanied, as this was, by a piercing easterly -wind, which swelled in the folds of our tents, and defied all efforts -to exclude the noisy intruder. In the afternoon, the weather having -cleared up a little, I visited the Emperor Jehangire's tomb, in company -with a brother officer. We entered the extensive building by a gateway -leading into a large square court, the four sides of which were pierced -by a succession of small casements, each divided into two cells, which -would have made very comfortable quarters for a Dragoon and his horse.</p> - -<p>Calculating on the probability of their being ere long devoted to some -such purpose, we found<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> that the square would have well accommodated a -cavalry regiment at its full strength. Crossing this yard, we passed -under a lofty, arched gateway, and entered the gardens in which stood -the tomb of the Emperor: a massive square building, of about thirty -feet in relief, from the four angles of which rose the usual flanking -parties, lofty and handsomely carved minarets. In the interior, we -found nothing costly or worthy of note. On a platform of white marble -steps, in the centre, stood the sarcophagus, made of the same material, -whose sides had been chipped and defaced by the Sikhs, to exhibit their -magnanimous contempt for the deceased Mussulman potentate. On ascending -the exterior of the monument, we found the flat roof paved with stones -of various colours, which had a singular effect, the whole constituting -a pattern of great dimensions. As none of the stones were of any value, -and all pretty tightly fastened with cement, the natural indolence -of the Sikhs had saved this part of the structure from injury. On -ascending one of the minarets, whence an excellent view of Lahore may -be obtained on a clear day, we observed, at the further side of the -garden, a small conical tomb, built to the memory of the far-famed, -beautiful Nourmahal, wife of the Emperor Jehangire. Her pathetic and -marvellous<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> history has formed a theme for many relaters of tales -throughout the east; but for the enlightenment of the few whose ears -they may not have reached, I will give a brief sketch of the adventures -assigned to her lot.</p> - -<p>Nourmahal was the daughter of a ruined Tartar chief, and was born -in the desert between Tartary and Hindostan when her parents were -emigrating to the latter country. Overcome by weakness and fatigue on -the journey, they found themselves unable to carry on the infant, and -Nourmahal was left to perish where she was born. The mother, after -deserting her child, was so overpowered with grief as to be unable to -proceed, whereupon Aiass, the father, returned in search of the infant, -which he found encircled by a large black snake. The reptile fled -at his approach, and Aiass, finding to his surprise that the infant -was uninjured, brought it to the mother. A caravan, shortly after, -opportunely arrived, and relieved them from their distresses; and, -without difficulty, the whole party reached Lahore, which was then the -seat of government of the Moguls conjointly with Agra. Aiass having -found a relative amongst the Omrahs of the Emperor Akbar, obtained, -through that influence, a place in the household of the monarch, and -rose in time to wealth and distinction. His<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> daughter, who was called -Mher el Nissa, (the sun of women,) possessed unequalled attractions of -beauty, and was also remarkable for wit and accomplishments—a rare -combination for an Eastern beauty.</p> - -<p>Selim, the son of Akbar, being present at an entertainment given by -Aiass, was much attracted by Mher el Nissa's graceful figure and -voice; and the accomplished beauty, having <i>accidentally</i> dropt her -veil, discovered to the happy prince such charms as had never before -shone upon the eyes of man. Poor Selim, who was as much in love (as -the Asiatics fictitiously term a passion of which they are ignorant) -as a prince could be, applied to the Emperor Akbar to obtain for him -the beautiful toy he had beheld. It was discovered that Mher el Nissa -was betrothed to the Omrah Sher Afken, a Turcoman noble, who might -be a dangerous enemy, and Akbar refused to employ harsh measures to -dissolve the contract. The disappointed prince was therefore compelled -to defer his passion and projects till a more convenient season, and -Mher el Nissa became the wife of Sher Afken. After the lapse of a few -years, when Selim had ascended the throne under the name of Jehangire, -Sher Afken left the court and retired to Burdwan. He was recalled -from thence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> by Jehangire to the court then held at Delhi, and the -monarch testified so much regard for the Turcoman chief, that he very -naturally concluded that all was sincere and disinterested on the part -of Jehangire.</p> - -<p>At a royal tiger-hunt which took place, the noble beast was marked -down in the jungle, and Jehangire, knowing Sher Afken's character -for strength, personal courage, and love of adventure, demanded that -volunteers, to meet the tiger single-handed with a sword, should -present themselves; four came forward, Sher Afken amongst them, and, -whilst the others were contending for the precarious honour, the -Turcoman Omrah offered to face the tiger without a weapon. Jehangire, -with inward joy and outward reluctance, assented. Sher Afken advanced -to the lair, and man and beast rushed into each other's clutches. The -tiger made some use of his claws, and mangled his opponent; but he -had to do with a hero of romance and not a mere mortal, consequently -the complaisant beast submitted, and allowed himself to be strangled. -The fame of Sher Afken rose with this exploit; he recovered from his -wounds, and became much honoured by the people and petted by the -monarch, who had many similar adventures in store for him. An elephant -was sent to crush<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> Sher Afken in his palanquin. The hero arose, and, -with one blow of a <i>short</i> sword, cut the elephant's trunk asunder at -the root, and killed him on the spot. Forty hired assassins tried to -murder him during the night; he slew twenty, and generously allowed -the remainder to escape. Sher Afken seems at last to have discovered -that Mher el Nissa was the object of Jehangire's persecutions, and -as it is considered a foul stain on a man's honour in the East to -part with any of his wives, the troublesome husband retired with the -sun of women, to his private residence at Burdwan. The chief of that -Bengal province immediately received instructions to remove the modern -Uriah to a better world, and, approaching under the pretext of a tour -of inspection, but with a large retinue, the king's official visited -Sher Afken, who met him unattended. The royal party soon proceeded to -business; but Sher Afken having pulled down an elephant and castle, -slain the emperor's agent, and killed a nobleman at every blow, was at -last surrounded by archers and matchlock men, who galled him from a -distance. He did not condescend to fall before his horse was killed, -and six bullets, and arrows innumerable, had perforated his body; -then, discovering he was mortal, the gallant and devout Omrah turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> -towards Mecca, threw sand on his head, and began to die. The soldiers -dared not approach until he was in his last agonies. The party then -hastened in search of Mher el Nissa, fearing that in the first outburst -of regret for her irreparable loss she might wish to accompany her -deceased husband to Heaven; but happily she was less overcome than they -expected, and appeared resigned to her fate, declaring it was entirely -out of regard to her husband, that he might be immortalized by his wife -becoming afterwards Empress of India, that she submitted to become -Jehangire's sultana.</p> - -<p>On her arrival at Delhi, to her surprise and mortification, she found -that some caprice of Jehangire not only assigned her the most paltry -rooms in the seraglio, but left her to poverty and neglect. The emperor -did not even visit the woman for whom he had stained his name with -indelible crimes.</p> - -<p>Mher el Nissa, with laudable indifference, amused herself with -embroideries, (in which art she excelled,) and her talents in this -humble occupation soon brought her name into notice. After four years -spent in this manner, it appears that curiosity weighed more with -Jehangire than boyish love, for he stole to the apartments of the -beautiful embroideress to witness her toil. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> result is evident, for -none could look on this dangerous beauty unmoved. The next day, the -Emperor Jehangire celebrated his nuptials with Mher el Nissa, under -the title of Nourmahal, (the Light of the Harem,) which was afterwards -changed to the more dignified and affectionate title of Sultana Noor -Jehan. The sultana continued to enjoy her husband's confidence, and -forms one of the few instances in Eastern history of a queen being -acknowledged more powerful than her lord.</p> - -<p>By her influence, her father became prime vizier, and was renowned -for his virtue and abilities in office; but, unhappily, her influence -over Jehangire was afterwards exerted to produce less creditable and -less fortunate results.<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> She survived her husband for upwards of -seventeen years, which serves to account for the paltry tomb erected to -her memory.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 26th of December, we crossed the Ravee in boats; -but the horses, as well as the camels and other beasts of burden, were -able to ford the river without being unloaded, the Ravee being much -narrower than its two predecessors which we had crossed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span></p> - -<p>Shortly before mid-day, we arrived within a mile of the city, and -encamped in a ploughed field, the advantages of which position were by -no means enhanced by the fall of rain on the previous day. The weather -now promised to be fine, luckily for us, and the ground was soon -dried, and as soon levelled by the constant intercourse with Lahore. -Immediately on our arrival, intimation was received that we must -consider ourselves all as guests of the Sikh government, who would not -admit of our purchasing any of the daily supplies requisite in camp; -and it was requested, that a return might be furnished of the strength -of the escort, that provision might be made for ourselves and cattle. -This daily distribution of provender was continued during the remainder -of our sojourn in the Punjaub, up to the day we recrossed the Sutlej. -Heaps of grain, straw, grass, eggs, flour, &c., were piled every -morning in front of the commissariat-officer's tents, and beside them, -droves of sheep and poultry stood, awaiting their fate with bleating -and cackling sorrow.</p> - -<p>This singular practice of feeding the troops of their allies was no -novelty on the part of the Sikhs; the same custom prevailed during -former<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> visits of British embassies to the court of Lahore, in the -lifetime of Runjeet Singh.</p> - -<p>A memorandum was issued shortly after our arrival, recommending the -officers to abstain from visiting Lahore, until Sikh guides had been -obtained, as a sort of safety escort; it was, at the same time, -notified that sundry long-bearded savages would shortly be waiting at -the commissary-general's quarters, for the benefit of any officers -desirous of keeping such company.</p> - -<p>This recommendation was neglected by many, in their impatience to visit -the celebrated metropolis; and though, generally, the Sikhs behaved -with unusual civility towards us, there were not wanting some examples -of the contrary.</p> - -<p>The approach to Lahore from our camp was certainly the most favourable -point of view which could be procured. An extensive plain, covered -with turf, and enlivened by occasional clumps of trees, is stretched -along the exterior of the city-walls in this quarter; and the view -of temples, barracks, minarets, arsenals, and battlemented-walls, -jumbled in thick and confused order behind the ramparts, announce to -the visitor that he is about to enter a city which has maintained -no inconsiderable part on the stage of Eastern history. As I rode -towards the city-gate, in com<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>pany with another officer, a party of -some twenty Sikh horsemen were issuing from the portal. On perceiving -us, they levelled their long spears, and advanced towards us at full -gallop. I could not refrain from forthwith drawing my sword, to meet -this unprovoked act of aggression; but my companion, whom experience -had made acquainted with Sikh peculiarities, requested me to ride -unconcernedly forward, and pay no attention to them. When this -adventurous body of cavaliers arrived within two or three spears' -length of us, they checked their horses back upon their haunches, -tossed up the points of their lances, and dispersed over the plain, -indulging in loud shouts of exultation at such an unwonted display of -horsemanship and courage. I could not help thinking, that had I been -alone, and provided with the usual furniture in my holsters, the noisy -occupants of two saddles might have paid dearly for this uncourteous -display of activity to a stranger. However, it is better for both that -such was not the case.</p> - -<p>Having crossed the bridge over the moat which defends the ramparts, we -entered Lahore through a series of narrow, dirty bazaars and lanes, -thronged, as usual, with inhabitants, yet so narrow, that three -horsemen could not ride abreast,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> except where some monument or temple -had been erected, in front of which the thoroughfares had been widened -and improved. It was with some difficulty that we made our way amongst -the crowds of people, who gazed at us more intently than if we had -been wild beasts in cages. The only recompence for this troublesome -curiosity was a good view of the fair-complexioned, dark eyed damsels, -who occupied many windows and balconies on the first story. As these -exalted beauties had the consideration to appear unveiled, we had ample -opportunities of admiring their charms.</p> - -<p>Having caused so much sensation, we almost began to imagine that -hitherto a wrong estimate had been formed of our importance, and that -we really were not what we thought; but, unhappily, our rising notions -of greatness were sadly checked by the discovery that we were merely -regarded as curiosities, but did not possess even sufficient influence -to gain admittance to the arsenal.</p> - -<p>The Sikhs were very jealous of allowing any of the officers of the -escort to visit their military establishments. In one of the temples -converted into a barrack, we were anxious to ascend a tower, which must -have commanded a good view<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> of Lahore, but the sentry was inexorable. -We applied to the officer in command of the barrack, but he pretended -that the doors were locked, and the keys mislaid. This apprehension -of gratifying our curiosity was no matter of surprise, although the -precaution was useless, as we were not likely to benefit by the sight -of their military institution; and as Lahore, in its present state, is -incapable of defence as a fortress, the view enjoyed by two officers on -the summit of one of its towers would not have tended much to endanger -the safety of the city and its inhabitants.</p> - -<p>This complaint of the Sikhs' jealousy was made by nearly all the -officers who visited the city, though many had gone with influential -natives as an escort.</p> - -<p>Sir John Keane having been for some time suffering from illness, -which prevented him from quitting his tent, a deputation of officers -from head-quarters waited upon Kurruk Singh, in his palace, to tender -excuses for his excellency's inability to see the maharajah.</p> - -<p>There was little display of magnificence or of munificence at this -Durbar compared to those which had taken place in the days of Runjeet; -and it was evident now that the paw of the old<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> Lion of Lahore had -relaxed its grasp of authority, there remained little respect for the -present puppet-show of royalty.</p> - -<p>Each officer attending the Durbar was presented with a dress of honour -of an average value of about two and sixpence sterling, and the damaged -Cashmere shawls presented as nuzzurs, would have been mean offerings to -send home to our respectable grandmothers. I have particularized those -reverend ladies, because their taste in the selection of that elegant -and becoming head-dress, the Cashmere turban, might enable them to roll -out of sight many of the defects of Kurruk Singh's presents, which -would have been fatally glaring when spread on the shoulders.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the enormous importation of shawls from Cashmere -into the Punjaub, the difficulty of procuring a really rich and -handsome shawl is greater than is commonly supposed. The most valuable -are generally purchased by the wealthy natives, who have the best -opportunities of procuring them; secondly, a good judge is required for -the selection; and, thirdly, rupees to spare to the amount of from five -hundred to twelve hundred, for the purchase of each.</p> - -<p>The day after the Durbar above named, Kurruk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> Singh, attended by -his court, visited the commander-in-chief at his tent. As some busy -gossips among the Sikhs had circulated a report that Sir John Keane's -illness was merely a pretext for withholding his company, and thus -evincing disrespect for the maharajah, Kurruk Singh and several of -his party were invited to enter the sleeping apartment, which they -did, and doubtless were convinced that the report of his excellency's -aristocratic disorder was not without foundation. Presents having been -made, and the usual forms and conversation having been conducted by -means of the interpreter, (Captain Powell,) the variegated mass of -silks, birds'-feathers, and jewellery, arose and departed. As this -shuffling crowd of Kurruk and his courtiers moved, bowing their heads, -through a lane of some two dozen brawny, square-built Englishmen, drawn -up as a guard of honour at the door-way, I could not forbear a smile at -the ludicrous contrast in manner and bearing, as well as the unusual -spectacle of the royal family of the Punjaubees, bowing and cringing to -the brave and sturdy descendants of some hard-working British artizans.</p> - -<p>Let these arrogant Asiatics crow as they will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> during our absence, -it is very clear that they cannot refrain from evincing their mighty -respect for British prowess when brought into contact with it.</p> - -<p>I always have, and still do entertain, the highest prepossession for -good blood and breeding, both in man and beast; nor was I staggered -in my opinion by this day's exhibition. It only tended to exalt the -estimate of my countrymen, for I should prefer the plainest drop of -English blood to the turbid streams flowing through the veins of the -proudest descendant of the Prophet, precisely as I should select a -sound English hack in preference to the weedy and stumbling offspring -of the best Hindustanee parents.</p> - -<p>Whilst accompanying the maharajah's party across the plain, between -our camp and Lahore, I observed some Sikhs engaged in their favourite -diversion of hawking, which being a novelty to me, I joined the -party, and rode with them some distance in pursuit. A noble falcon -had been slipped, and was in full chase of a kite, much larger and -probably stronger than himself. The falcon had no easy game to play; -he practised several dextrous manœuvres, and stooped with great -rapidity; but the quarry was equally wary, and cleverly avoided the -enemy's attack, though his inferiority in speed prevented him from -contend<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>ing successfully when soaring for the higher place. At length, -night put an end to the contest, and the bird having been called in, we -rode homewards; but the kite, after his exertions, must have been ill -qualified to procure an evening's meal.</p> - -<p>The Sikh sportsmen behaved with civility, and took some pains in -conveying instructions to me in falconry; but I derived little benefit -from their attentions, not being able to understand one-tenth of what -they said. Their knowledge of Hindustani appeared to be more limited -than my own, and one prevalent error was using the nose as much as -the mouth in the course of their conversation. I am not sure that I -am justified in calling this an error; for the Americans, who contend -that they speak English better than we can, adopt the same mode of -pronunciation. Their literature and social refinement must add weight -to the assertion. Washington Irving, by far the first of American -authors, complains of the ignorance and prejudice of English writers -on America: let me give him an example, taken from a book written by -an American of a learned profession. His opinion is not confined to -one country, and caused me a good hearty laugh. The author having -become intimately acquainted with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> misery and ignorance of European -nations, proceeds to pronounce sentence at the end of his book—the -only good part:</p> - -<p>"My soul has been sickened at the sight of oppression, ignorance, -abjectness, and vice, which I have seen everywhere the result of -arbitrary rule.<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> I contrast with these the general intelligence, -the independent spirit, the comparative virtue of my countrymen, and -I am proud of the name of an American. But it does not become us to -boast.<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> True greatness <i>never</i> plays the part of the braggadocio. -If the people under the despotic governments of Europe are less -intelligent and happy than we, it is their misfortune, and not their -fault, and they are more deserving our pity than our scorn!!"<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a></p> - -<p>I think we should be at a loss to find a parallel for this amongst the -most ignorant and prejudiced of our writers on America.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the 28th of December, we quitted Lahore, having -discharged the required duty of visiting Runjeet's unworthy successor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> -and witnessing the estimation in which he was held. The party of Sher -Singh (the next in succession to the throne) was supposed, at that -time, to be strong; and the death of Kurruk Singh, which occurred -shortly afterwards, is generally attributed to a plot to bring the -favourite to supreme authority. But the death of Runjeet rang the -death-knell of the nation he had brought to such rapid importance.</p> - -<p>The reign of Kurruk's successor commenced with the massacre or removal -of most of the European officers in the Sikh service, by the soldiery; -the natural consequence of which must be the deterioration of that -discipline which Runjeet wisely devoted the greater part of his life -in endeavouring to establish. Could he have deputed his own abilities -to his successor, the Punjaub might have risen into one of the most -important nations of the East; but the army is becoming daily more -disorganized and under less control. Their arrears of pay remain -unsettled, which is a dangerous experiment; and the officers, although -possessing little authority with the troops under their command, are -among the disaffected. They are becoming troublesome neighbours on the -north-western frontier, especially as their country is so situated as -to interfere with our direct<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> communication with the far-distant and -isolated position in Afghanistan. Under these circumstances, they must -necessarily be made either permanent friends or obedient subjects; -they will never become the former, and it will take a good many years -to reduce them to the latter alternative; yet, if we continue to hold -Afghanistan, it must be done.</p> - -<p>At a distance of about six miles from Lahore, we passed the camp of the -main body of the Sikh army, consisting of about fifty thousand men and -one hundred and sixty pieces of cannon. Having pitched our camp about -four miles distant from this overwhelming host, we were invited by Sher -Singh to attend a review of the army, which he directed to be held that -afternoon.</p> - -<p>On reaching their camp, it was already so late, that we had only time -to ride along their line, (which extended to an enormous distance,) -before sunset. Some of our officers, who had been with the previous -mission to Lahore, remarked regiments apparently of recent equipment. -On approaching the end of the line, torrents of abuse were lavished on -the British nation by the chivalrous Alkalees, who brandished their -weapons, shook their quoits, and behaved with incredible valour, if not -rashness, in exhibiting to four or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> five strangers and visitors what -a dangerous and formidable class the Alkalees were, and how much they -detested the Feringhees, even without knowing them.</p> - -<p>These besotted fanatics, we were told, had done the old Lion some -service, when, excited by opium and exceeding pot-valour, they -dashed headlong into the ranks of their adversaries, who, being less -intoxicated than the Alkalees, or less capable of directing the effects -of their intoxication, gave way in confusion before these accomplished -drunkards. More worthy symbols of superstition could hardly be found -amongst the Fakeers and idiots<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> of the Hindoos.</p> - -<p>The new regiments of cavalry, which appeared to have been equipped -or raised since our last rencontre at Ferozepore, were a brigade -of lancers, (a laughable caricature of the British regiment, which -they were intended to resemble,) two corps of cuirassiers, and some -mail-clad irregulars; the latter uncommonly fine, rough-and-ready -looking fellows—light troops which, well-handled, would cause much -inconvenience at outpost or guerilla-service, unless their appearance -belied them. I was told by an officer of an ingenious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> device which he -saw practised by the Sikh infantry. When wheeling into a parade-line, a -string had been laid on the ground, which was invisible to a looker-on -at a short distance, and when the word of command was given, each -regiment wheeled up to this mark, and thus formed a pretty correct -line without any trouble in dressing or posting markers. The evening -closed in so soon at this season, that we had little time afforded -us to observe their progress in manœuvring, as the extensive line -toiled through the manœuvre of changing front, whilst the artillery -enveloped the whole scene in dust and smoke. The Sikh artillery is, -however, beyond a doubt, the most effective branch of their service, -working with great rapidity, and firing with almost as much precision -and regularity as the British, who have been their model.</p> - -<p>During the progress of this review, three or four officers, having -left their horses in charge of some Sikh soldiers, mounted the -elephants which had been sent by the Sikh sirdars as calculated to -give a better view of the field than could be obtained on horseback. -The review being over, these officers, returning to the spot where -their horses had been left, found, to their dismay, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> chargers, -horse-trappings, and Sikhs had vanished. Search amongst such a host of -men and beasts, in the dusk of evening, presented very small chance of -success; so, endeavouring to reconcile their minds to the severity of -fate, they returned to camp. A complaint of the loss was immediately -forwarded by the British political agent to the Sikh authorities, -who promised that the horses should be recovered or their owners -indemnified. During our halt at Ferozepore, a few days afterwards, the -horses were restored to their owners, mainly owing, it is supposed, -to the enormous value attached by one of the officers to an animal -of decidedly unprepossessing appearance, whose unaccountable value -and good qualities were possibly known only to his master. The Sikh -thieves had been palpably ignorant of the value of their prize; for -this extraordinary charger, (though always belonging to the lean -kind,) had now been suffered to dwindle away until he became a close -resemblance of an engraving which I remember having seen, a few years -ago, in the London engravers' windows, entitled, "The Nightmare." The -facetious quadruped is represented with its head tied to a knocker, and -grinning in the face of the alarmed house-owner, who appears at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> -door dressed in his night costume, with a rush-light in his hand and a -blunderbuss under his arm.</p> - -<p>Several more petty thefts were committed on our camp whilst in the -vicinity of the Sikh army; and in some instances the dexterity of the -thieves was not inferior to that of the many renowned practitioners -throughout Hindostan.</p> - -<p>Four days march from the Sikh camp brought us once more to the banks of -the Sutlej, which we crossed in boats, re-entering the provinces at the -point from which the army had started on this long and wearisome tour. -Ferozepore, which we had left a mean native town, was now embellished -with extensive, white-washed bazaars; and a neat little fort in the -centre of the town was occupying the attention of our engineers. The -ground, which had been covered by the canvas-abodes of a portion of -the army at the close of the year 1838, was now, in January, 1840, the -site of a large cantonment, which had risen, as if by magic, within the -space of fourteen months, and was then tenanted by three regiments of -native infantry and some artillery.<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a></p> - -<p>From hence, we shortly afterwards dispersed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> in different directions, -to occupy our allotted quarters. We marched through Khytul and Kurnal, -to occupy our former quarters at Merut, which we had no sooner reached, -than the excitement of the campaign being over, the sufferings and -privations which all had undergone began to tell severely upon -their health, and many a gallant fellow was committed to his last -resting-place in the sombre burial-ground of Merut.</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Punjaub means, literally, five rivers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> "Mad as a hatter," is a favourite term of comparison.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> The chiefs take care to provide for this. Colonel Ford, a -British officer in Runjeet's service, had three villages given him for -pay, out of which he was allowed to make the most. This was the usual -practice; but the people are now growing stronger.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> The disposition of Eastern states, like the character -of froward children, may be tested by these trifling humours in their -behaviour.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> For further information, I refer the reader to Dow's -"History of India."</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> N.B.—Arbitrary rule, in his vocabulary, is explained to -mean, simply, any monarchy or empire.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> The author has made this discovery too late, and the next -sentence seals his fate.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> "Two Years and a Half in the American Navy," vol. ii. p. -244.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> An idiot is revered by the Hindoo, as a Heaven-afflicted -sufferer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> A fort on modern principles was soon after built in -cantonments, and quarters provided for a British regiment.</p></div></div> - - -<p class="center" style="margin-top: 5em;">END OF VOL. I.</p> - -<p class="center" style="margin-top: 5em;"><small>T.C. Savill, Printer, 4, Chandos-street, Covent garden.</small></p> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Military Service and Adventures in the -Far East: Vol. 1 (of 2), by Daniel Henry MacKinnon - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MILITARY SERVICE IN FAR EAST, VOL 1 *** - -***** This file should be named 55844-h.htm or 55844-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/5/8/4/55844/ - -Produced by Brian Coe, Graeme Mackreth and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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