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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #62807 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/62807)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Old Chelsea, by Benjamin Ellis Martin,
-Illustrated by Joseph Pennell
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Old Chelsea
-       A Summer-Day's Stroll
-
-
-Author: Benjamin Ellis Martin
-
-
-
-Release Date: August 1, 2020  [eBook #62807]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD CHELSEA***
-
-
-Transcribed from the 1889 T. Fisher Unwin edition by David Price, email
-ccx074@pglaf.org
-
-              [Picture: Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm]
-
-
-
-
-
-                               OLD CHELSEA
-                         _A SUMMER-DAY’S STROLL_
-
-
-                                    BY
-                          BENJAMIN ELLIS MARTIN
-
-                      ILLUSTRATED BY JOSEPH PENNELL
-
-                [Picture: Gateway of Rossetti’s old house]
-
-                                  London
-                              T FISHER UNWIN
-                          26 PATERNOSTER SQUARE
-                                   1889
-
-
-
-
-NOTE.
-
-
-THE stroll described in these pages may be imagined to be taken during
-the summer of 1888: all the dates, descriptions, and references herein
-having been brought down to the present moment.
-
-The specimen of Old Chelsea ware on the cover is an accurate copy—reduced
-in size, naturally—of one of the plates of the set belonging once to Dr.
-Johnson, now in Holland House.  For the privilege of this unique
-reproduction I am indebted to the courtesy of Lady Holland.
-
-                                                                  B. E. M.
-
-LONDON, _August_, 1888
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
-
-                                                                  PAGE
-STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY BOEHM                      _Frontispiece_
-THE EMBANKMENT MANSIONS FROM BATTERSEA                              16
-A VIEW OF CHELSEA                                                   21
-STEAMBOAT PIER AT OLD BATTERSEA BRIDGE, AND THE                     26
-RIVER FRONT, TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO
-THE EMBANKMENT AND OLD BATTERSEA BRIDGE                             29
-MAP OF CHELSEA                                                      35
-THE HOUSES AT CHELSEA                                               56
-LINDSEY HOUSE AND BATTERSEA BRIDGE                                  59
-SANDFORD MANOR HOUSE, SAND’S END                                    64
-CHELSEA HOSPITAL, RIVER FRONT                                       72
-PARADISE ROW                                                        88
-TITE STREET                                                         99
-STATUE OF SIR HANS SLOANE IN THE BOTANIC GARDENS                   103
-NO. 4, CHEYNE WALK                                                 107
-GATEWAY OF ROSSETTI’S OLD HOUSE                                    110
-DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI’S GARDEN                                    114
-DON SALTERO’S                                                      123
-CHEYNE WALK, WITH THE MAGPIE AND STUMP                             127
-A CHELSEA CORNER                                                   133
-STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY BOEHM                                 136
-CARLYLE’S HOUSE, GREAT CHEYNE ROW                                  139
-THE CHELSEA RECTORY                                                144
-A CORNER IN CHELSEA OLD CHURCH                                     154
-OLD BATTERSEA CHURCH, WHERE BLAKE WAS MARRIED,                     164
-SHOWING THE WINDOW FROM WHICH TURNER SKETCHED
-THE WESTERN END OF CHEYNE WALK                                     167
-TURNER’S LAST DWELLING-PLACE                                       171
-BATTERSEA BRIDGE AND CHURCH FROM TURNER’S HOUSE                    176
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-    “OUT of monuments, names, wordes, proverbs, traditions, private
-    recordes and evidences, fragments of stories, passages of bookes, and
-    the like, we doe save and re-cover somewhat from the deluge of
-    Time.”—_Bacon_, “_Advancement of Learning_”, _Book II_.
-
-    “I have always loved to wander over the scenes inhabited by men I
-    have known, admired, loved, or revered, as well amongst the living as
-    the dead.  The spots inhabited and preferred by a great man during
-    his passage on the earth have always appeared to me the surest and
-    most speaking relic of himself: a kind of material manifestation of
-    his genius—a mute revelation of a portion of his soul—a living and
-    sensible commentary on his life, actions, and thoughts.”—_Lamartine_,
-    “_Pilgrimage to the Holy Land_.”
-
-    “The man that is tired of London is tired of existence.”—_Samuel
-    Johnson_.
-
-
-
-
-_Old Chelsea_.
-
-
-            [Picture: The embankment mansions from Battersea]
-
-I HAD strolled, on a summer day, from Apsley House towards the then
-residence of Charles Reade at Knightsbridge, when I came upon one of
-those surprises of which London is still so full to me, even after more
-than a dozen years of fond familiarity with its streets and with all that
-they mean to the true lover of the Town.  For, as I watched the ceaseless
-traffic of the turbulent turnings from the great thoroughfare down
-towards Chelsea, there came to my mind a phrase in the pages of its local
-historian: who, writing but a little earlier than the year 1830, points
-with pride to a project just then formed for the laying out of the latest
-of these very streets—at that day it was a new rural road cut through
-fields and swamps—and by it, he says, “Chelsea will obtain direct
-connection with London; and henceforth must be considered an integral
-part of the Great Metropolis of the British Empire”!  It is hard to
-realise that only fifty years ago Chelsea was a rustic and retired
-village, far from London: even as was Islington, fifty years ago, when
-Charles Lamb, pensioned and set free from his desk in the India House,
-retired to that secluded spot with his sister to live “in a cottage, with
-a spacious garden,” as he wrote; with “the New River, rather elderly by
-this time, running in front (if a moderate walking pace can be so
-termed)”: even as was Kensington—“the old court suburb pleasantly
-situated on the great Western road”—just fifty years ago, when wits and
-statesmen drove between fields and market gardens to the rival courts of
-Gore House and of Holland House; and N. P. Willis delighted the feminine
-readers of the _New York Mirror_ with his gossip about his visits to Lady
-Blessington and about the celebrities who bowed before her.  To-day all
-these villages, along with many even more remote, are one with London.
-Yet, more than any of them, has Chelsea kept its old village
-character—albeit preserving but few of its old village features.  Of the
-many magnificent mansions which gave it the name of “The Village of
-Palaces” five alone still stand—Blacklands, Gough, Lindsey, Stanley and
-Walpole Houses—and these are greatly altered.  I shall show you all of
-them in our stroll to-day.  In between them, and away beyond them,
-streets have been cut, new quarters built: made up in part of “genteel”
-villas and rows of respectable residences; but in great part, also, of
-cheap dwellings, of small and shabby shops.  These extremes render much
-of modern Chelsea utterly uninteresting, except mayhap to the collector
-of rents or to the inspector of nuisances.  Yet much of that which is
-truly ancient and honourable has been fondly kept untouched, and not
-ignobly cleaned, as in next-door Kensington.  Alongside this artistic
-squalor we have the curious contrast of artistic splendour in a blazing,
-brand-new quarter, of which the sacred centre is Tite Street.  Here, amid
-much that is good and genuine in our modern manner, there is an
-aggressive affectation of antiquity shown by the little houses and
-studios obtruding on the street, by the grandiose piles of mansions
-towering on the embankment: all in raging red brick, and in the so-called
-Queen Anne style.  The original article, deadly dull and decorous as it
-may be, has yet a decent dignity of its own as a real relic, not found in
-this painful pretence of ancient quaintness.  This is a quarter, however,
-much in vogue; mighty swells dwell here, and here pose some famous
-_farceurs_ in art and literature; here, too, work many earnest men and
-women in all pursuits of life.  These latter plentifully people every
-part of Chelsea, for the sake of the seclusion and the stillness they
-seek and here find: just as there settled here for the same reasons, two
-centuries ago and earlier, men of learning and of wealth, scholars and
-nobles, who kept themselves exclusive by virtue of their birth or their
-brains.  And so this privileged suburb,
-
-    “Where fruitful Thames salutes the learned shore,”
-
-came to be in time a place of polite resort: while yet, in the words of
-Macaulay, it was but “a quiet country village of about one thousand
-inhabitants, the baptisms therein averaging a little more than forty in
-the year.”  On the slope which rises from the river—as we see it in our
-print of those days—stand, in trim gardens, the grand mansions which
-first made the little village famous.  Back from these isolated houses
-and between them stretch fair fields, and fertile meadows, and wooded
-slopes; and along the river bank runs a row of fishermen’s thatched
-cottages.  Here and there on the shore, are nestled noted taverns and
-pleasure-gardens, much frequented by town visitors, reputable or not,
-coming up the river on excursions—as does Pepys, “to make merry at the
-Swan.”  Gay sings of the place and the period:
-
-    “Then Chelsey’s meads o’erhear perfidious vows,
-    And the press’d grass defrauds the grazing cows.”
-
-The low river shore, planted with lime and plane trees, is protected by a
-slight embankment: first built by the Romans on the banks above their
-walled town of London: improved later by the Norman conquerors; and kept
-in repair afterward either by landlord or by tenant, as might be decided
-in the incessant disputes between them, still shown on the parish records
-of that day.  This little embankment is broken here and there by carved
-gateways, giving entrance to the grand houses; and by water
-staircases—called, in our print, Ranelagh, Bishop’s, Old Magpye, Beaufort
-Stairs—from which a few country lanes—such as Pound and Church Lanes and
-Cheyne Row—lead from the river front to the King’s Road.  This road had
-been first a foot-path following the windings of the river a little
-inland—worn perhaps by the feet of the wandering tribes of
-Trinobantes—and had gradually enlarged itself as the country around
-became cultivated.  It led from the village of Whitehall through the
-woods and fields, across the tidal swamps and the marsh lands west of
-Westminster—partly filled in by the great Cubitt with the earth dug out
-in the excavations of St. Katherine’s docks, early in this century: where
-now stretches graceful St. James’s Park, where now Belgravia is built so
-bravely—and so the road ran to the slopes of Chelsea, to the first good
-land close alongside the river which rose fairly above it.
-
-                       [Picture: A view of Chelsea]
-
-Such was the secret of the speedy settlement of this secluded suburb.  It
-was high and healthy, and had easy access to town by the safe, swift,
-silent highway of the river; when few cared to go by the land road, bad
-enough at its best, unsafe even in daylight by reason of the foot-pads;
-but at last made wide and smooth for his coach by Charles II., recently
-restored.  He used it as the royal route to Hampton Palace, and called it
-the King’s Private Road.  Even that exclusive name did not serve to make
-it safe; and long after Chelsea Hospital was built, a guard of its
-pensioners nightly patrolled, as an escort for honest travellers, from
-where Buckingham Palace now stands, across Bloody Bridge,—at the edge of
-present Pimlico,—and so away through the Five Fields, “where robbers lie
-in wait,” as the _Tatler_ puts it.  For Mr. Dick Steele often went by
-this road to Chelsea, where he had a little house somewhere near the
-river bank: whereto he was fond of taking “a friend to supper,” leaving
-word at home that he should not be able to return until the next morning,
-the roads being so unsafe by night!  Sometimes his friend Addison was
-with him; sometimes the latter walked this way alone to his own home, at
-the farther end of Chelsea; and once on a moonlight night, he strolled
-out here with Colonel Esmond, as you may remember.  A few years later,
-this same walk was frequently taken by Mr. Jonathan Swift, from Mrs.
-Vanhomrigh’s house in Suffolk Street, Pall Mall—where he used to leave
-his “best gown and periwig,” as he tells Stella—“and so to Chelsea, a
-little beyond the Church.”  And still later, in December, 1754, Smollett
-was robbed of his watch and purse—there was but little in the latter, for
-he was then in poor case—as he went by coach from London to his residence
-out in Chelsea.
-
-  [Picture: Steamboat Pier at Old Battersea Bridge, and the river front,
-                       twenty-five years ago] {26}
-
-“King’s Road,” as we see it to-day, in dingy letters on the old brick or
-plaster-fronted houses, makes us almost look for the Merry Monarch—as
-history has mis-named one of her saddest figures—driving past, on his way
-to Hampton Court, in company with a bevy of those beauties who still lure
-our senses from out their canvasses on the walls of the old palace.  We
-see, at intervals along the road, behind its rusty iron railings and
-flagged front-yard and old-time porch, a long low brick house,
-
-    . . .  “whose ancient casements stare
-    Like sad, dim eyes, at the retreating years,”
-
-as if weary of waiting for their owner to come home from the Dutch wars.
-Through narrow archways we catch glimpses of trees and of gardens.
-Turning down a rural lane we stroll into “The Vale,” and find a clump of
-cottages, covered with vines, grown about with greenery; flowers blow,
-cocks crow, an air of country unconcern covers the enclosure.  The French
-gardeners who came here in crowds in 1685, after the Revocation of the
-Edict of Nantes, and set Chelsea all a-bloom with their nurseries, have
-left to their heirs but a diminished domain; yet although Butterfly
-Alley, sought by sauntering swells, has gone, King’s Road is still
-countrified by its florists: their famous wistarias grow on the Hospital
-walls and climb the houses of Cheyne Walk: you still find their fig-trees
-in private gardens, their vines on old-fashioned trellises: they make
-Chelsea streets all green and golden with their massed creepers through
-summer and through autumn.  In unexpected corners you will stumble on a
-collection of cosy cottages, like Camera Square; there are a few rural
-nooks still left; here and there a woodland walk; and in dairies hid
-behind stone streets the cow is milked for you while you wait to drink
-the warm milk.
-
-And on the river bank, although the old Roman and the old Norman wall and
-walk are replaced by the broad new Embankment and its smug gardens;
-although the insolent affectations of the Queen Anne mania stare stonily
-down on Cheyne Walk; all these have not been able to vulgarise this most
-delightful of promenades.  Starting from Chelsea Barracks we can still
-walk under the old plane trees:—on our right the ancient Dutch-fronted
-houses, so prim, so secluded, so reserved; on our left the placid flow of
-the storied Thames, broadened here into Chelsea Reach:—to dingy, dear old
-Battersea Bridge, and so on to Sand’s End.  At each end of our walk are
-the two small rivulets which bounded the old parish east and west; one is
-now arched over and flows unseen beneath the tread of busy feet; the
-other serves as a railway cutting and carries rattling trains: so the
-old-time memories of the place now either flow underground, or are
-modernised and become part of its daily life.
-
-            [Picture: The Embankment and Old Battersea Bridge]
-
-In the extreme north-eastern corner as we enter Chelsea we find Hans
-Place, a secluded green oval, built about with old-time two-storied brick
-houses.  In No. 25 was born in 1802 the poetess, Letitia E. Landon, known
-as “L. E. L.”; and at No. 22 she went to school. {31}  At the farthest
-south-western point of the parish, just over on the border of Fulham,
-stands the old house once tenanted by Nell Gwynne.  At the northern end
-of Church Street, opposite the Jewish burial ground, is a public-house,
-“The Queen’s Elm,” perpetuating the memory of the tree, there standing
-until very lately, under which Elizabeth sought shelter from a shower,
-when strolling in the fields with Burleigh on one of her frequent visits
-to Chelsea.  On the southern, the river, border of the parish, lived
-George Eliot; and here, at No. 4, Cheyne Walk, she died.  Between these
-spots, marked by the memories of these four women, so far apart in time,
-rank, and character, how much of history and romance do we traverse!
-
-In taking you for a stroll to-day through Old Chelsea we will not stop to
-puzzle over the etymology of the name; whether it came from the Saxon,
-_Chelchythe_, or from _Chesel_, meaning gravel, and _ea_, meaning a bank:
-nor trace it back to its earliest appearance in Saxon chronicles, in 745,
-as the Hundred of Ossulston, Middlesex.  You may see, if you choose, in
-the British Museum, the Charter of Edward the Confessor giving the “Manor
-of Chelsey to the Abbot and brothers of the Ministers of the West,” by
-whom it was rented for four pounds yearly.  But it will not add to the
-interest of our stroll to learn that when it was a residence of Offa,
-King of the Mercians, there was a “Geflit-fullic” held here; nor that
-they had “a contentious synod.”  Nor shall we altogether partake of the
-joy of one Maitland, sounding for many a day up and down the river, and
-at last finding, on the eighteenth of September, 1732, the very ford
-between Chelsea and Battersea, traversed by Cæsar’s army in pursuit of
-the flying Britons.  For several centuries after the Conquest, the names
-Chelcheth or Chelchith were used indifferently; in the sixteenth century
-it began to be written Chelsey; and it is only since about 1795 that the
-modern spelling has prevailed.
-
-Among the archives of Chelsea may be seen the will, dated in 1369, of the
-Earl of Warwick; and we know that long before that year he had come here
-with the prestige of his prowess at Poictiers, his courage at Cressy, and
-had built himself a house—the first great nobleman’s house erected here.
-But we do not know where it stood, nor anything more of it, than that it
-was afterwards leased by Richard III. to the widowed Duchess of Norfolk
-for the yearly rental of one red rose.
-
-Sir Thomas More’s is the first house, as well as the fullest of human
-interest, of which we have any authentic record in Chelsea; and it was he
-who laid the foundations of the prosperity of the place.  He built it for
-himself in 1520: glad to go from narrow Bucklersbury in the City to sweet
-sights and sounds and air for his young children.  For more than two
-centuries his house stood here, tenanted by many families, famous and
-infamous, until 1740, when it was pulled down.  It is a labour of love,
-and no difficult one, to reconstruct it as Bowack saw it: “This house is
-between 200 and 300 feet in length, has a stately ancient front towards
-the Thames, also two spacious courtyards, and behind it are _very fine
-gardens_.  It is so pleasantly situated that the late Queen Mary had a
-great desire to purchase it before King William built Kensington Palace,
-but was prevented by some secret obstacles.”  An old view signed “L.
-Knyff del: 1699,” shows us a projecting porch in the centre, a dozen or
-more generous windows on each floor, four of them oriel; and above, many
-gables, turrets, and a small tower.  The back view crowds together, in
-picturesque confusion, a mass of casements, close packed gables, and
-jutting pent-houses.  Such was “this pore howse in Chelchith” from which
-More dated one of his letters; and Erasmus wrote of it that it was
-“neither mean nor invidiously grand, and so subject to envy, yet
-commodious enough.”  It stood on the slope a little back from the river,
-half-way up to the King’s Road, about where Beaufort Street now runs.  A
-spacious garden lay in front, too, wherein the great Chancellor was wont
-to walk, as well as on the gate-house, which, in the words of Aubrey,
-“was flatt on the top, leaded, from whence is a most pleasant prospect of
-the Thames and the fields beyond.”  Sometimes he walked with his guest
-Holbein; sometimes with his friend Ellis Heywood, poet and playwright,
-who wrote warmly about “this enchanting spot”; sometimes with his King,
-Henry VIII., who, still posing as a good Catholic and Defender of the
-Faith, used to come up the river, drop into dinner, and saunter afterward
-in the garden, his arm about More’s neck.  The son-in-law, Roper, records
-this with delight, “never having seen the King so familiar with any one
-else, except Wolsey.”  More knew just what all this was worth, and that
-his head would count, with the king, for nothing against “say a French
-city or a citadel.”  Wolsey’s fate—the fate of so many others—howbeit
-warned none of the rest; else could they not have forgotten that to every
-neck on which had hung that royal ruffian’s arm the axe soon came; and
-that to be his friend was only a little less dangerous than to be his
-wife.
-
-                        [Picture: Map of Chelsea]
-
-In this garden were the stocks for heretics, and the “Jesus tree,” or
-tree of troth, whereat they were flogged; for More was fond of
-suppressing heresy, and failing that, he used to suppress the heretics,
-by flinging them into prison.  The resolute old Catholic denied that he
-had ever laid hands on a dissident, but it is certain that some one did
-so by his orders.  Near his house he had put up the “newe buildinge, for
-the entertainment of distressed old men and women;” and therein was a
-small chapel, where he spent much time, praying, and scourging himself
-with a knotted cord; wearing next his skin the hair shirt which is still
-preserved in the convent of Spilsberg.  He was fond of assisting in the
-service at the old church, carrying the cross in the procession, and
-doing divers duties “like a parish clerk.”  One day the Duke of Norfolk,
-coming out to dine with him, “fortuned to finde him in the quier with a
-surplisse on his backe, singinge:” at the sight of which servile service,
-the good worldly duke was moved to wrathful remonstrance.
-
-All this rigidity in religion was but the natural stand of a strong
-character against the drift of the times and the current that was
-carrying crowds down with the king; and it narrowed none in the least
-this man’s broad spirit, nor touched for the worse his quaint, gentle
-humour, his fine wit, his sweet and wholesome nature.  It was he who had
-said, in better balanced days:—“A man may live for the next world, yet be
-merry withal:” his was the dainty description of Jane Shore in her
-youth:—“Proper she was and fair; nothing in hir body that you would have
-changed, but if you would have wished hir somewhat higher;” and his that
-pitiful picture of her old age and misery.  It was of him that Erasmus
-wrote these beautiful words: “There was not any man living who was so
-affectionate to his children as he; and he loveth his old wife as well as
-if she were a young maid.”  Nor was she only “old,” but, in the words of
-More’s grandson, “of good yeares, of no good favour nor complexion, nor
-very rich; her disposition very near and worldly.”  Moreover, she was his
-second wife; and to her—selfish, grasping, hard, nagging—this man grandly
-gave unswerving devotion to the very last.  His was, indeed, an ideal
-household into which I like to look; all dwelling together in
-affectionate amity; father, mother, the son and his wife, the three
-daughters—“the Moricæ”—and their husbands, with all the grandchildren;
-and the orphan girl, Margery Giggs, adopted as a daughter by More, “and
-as dear to him as if she were his own.”  There is work for all, and “no
-wrangling, no idle word was heard; no one was idle,” Erasmus tells us.
-All the female folk study too—a rare thing then, for More was centuries
-ahead of his time in his larger views of woman’s education, as he—the
-greatest minister of Humanism—was in political and in mightier matters.
-Pithily he put it: “It mattereth not, in harvest time, whether the corn
-were sown by a man or a woman.”  At his table—his dining-hour was
-doubtless late, for he urges this boon among the other wise innovations
-of his “Utopia”—met the “best society” of England, and famous foreign
-guests.  Perhaps it was here that Erasmus sat, greatest of scholars and
-divines, himself easily first of all that notable band; admiring, as he
-owns, Grocyn’s vast range of knowledge, and Linacre’s subtle, deep, fine
-judgment; seeming to hear Plato speak, as he listens to Colet—him who
-founded St. Paul’s School—and wondering “did nature ever frame a
-disposition more gentle, more sweet, more happy,” than that of his host!
-
-From this home, More was taken to a prison, by his good King.  He had
-refused, by countenancing Henry’s divorce, to debase himself and his
-great office, and had stepped down from it on May 16, 1533, with even
-greater joy than he had stepped up to it on Wolsey’s disgrace, four years
-previously.  So he retired to this Chelsea mansion with but one hundred
-pounds a year income left to him; after so many years of high and of
-lucrative office.  Here he bothered no more about public concerns, but
-busied himself with the welfare of his household, preparing his family
-and himself for the end which he saw coming.  It came soon enough; and
-when he refused to violate his conscience by acknowledging Henry’s
-supremacy over that of the Pope as the head of the Church, and by taking
-the oath of succession (under which Anne Boleyn’s children were to be
-acknowledged the lawful heirs to the crown), he was carried down the
-river to the Tower; and there imprisoned for a whole year, in the very
-cell, it is said, wherein he had sat as grand inquisitor, aforetime
-racking heretics.  “Very nigh Heaven,” he said it was, looking up
-contentedly from this narrow tenement.  At nine o’clock of the morning of
-July 16, 1535, he was led to the block on Tower Hill and there beheaded.
-You may walk there and look on the place to-day: but lately found and
-fixed on, railed in and paved.  His courage and his constancy had never
-once failed him, save as he was being brought back to his cell after his
-trial in Westminster Hall; when his favourite daughter, Margaret Roper,
-waiting among the crowd on Tower Wharf—learning his sentence by the token
-of the blade of the headsman’s axe turned towards him—broke through the
-guards, and clung to his neck, kissing him and sobbing, “Oh, my father!”
-with no other words uttered.  Then for a moment the father in him was
-unmanned, as he moaned, “My Meg!” and kissed her for the last time.  On
-the morning of his execution he was cheerful and even jocular: “I pray
-you, master Lieutenant,” said he at the scaffold-steps, “see me safe up,
-and for my coming down I can shift for myself.”  He put aside his beard
-out of the axe’s reach—“for _it_ has never committed treason”—and so laid
-his reverend head on the block; too noble a head to drop in so worthless
-a cause.
-
-“A dauntless soul erect, who smiled at death,” is Thomson’s fitting
-phrase.  And Erasmus wrote: “All lament his death as the loss of their
-own father or brother.  I myself have seen tears come from those men who
-never saw More. . . .  How many souls hath that axe wounded which cut off
-More’s head!”
-
-Where they buried his body has always been matter of conjecture.  In a
-record, printed in 1726, his great-grandson says: “His trunke was
-interred in Chelsey Church, near the middle of the south wall;” but other
-records tell us that it was inhumed beneath the Tower Chapel; and it
-seems certain that no one will ever really know the truth about this.  We
-do know, however, that his head was exposed on a spike above London
-Bridge, “where as traytors’ heads are sett upon poles; having remained
-some moneths there, being to be cast into the Thames, because roome
-should be made for diverse others, who in plentiful sorte suffered
-martyrdome for the same supremacie.”  It was taken away by Margaret
-Roper, by bribery or stealth; “least—as she stoutly affirmed before the
-Councell, being called before them for the same matter—it should be foode
-for fishes; which she buried where she thought fittest.”  This spot was
-found—in 1835, after just three centuries of doubt—to be in the vault of
-the Roper family in St. Dunstan’s Church, Canterbury: and there his head
-remains to-day “in a leaden box something in the shape of a bee-hive,
-open in the front, and with an iron grating before it.”
-
-In my visits to Canterbury, as I stroll down its delightful old street to
-St. Dunstan’s, I pause always in front of the ancient carved stone
-gateway—all that is left of the Roper mansion—fancying I see that devoted
-daughter hurrying home, secretly and by night, carrying her beloved
-burden in a silver casket: carrying it all the way in her own hands,
-fearful of entrusting it to those of any other.  Most lovable as well as
-most learned among women—“her humility equal to her learning,” “no woman,
-that could speak so well, did speak so little,” says old Fuller in his
-“Worthies”—Margaret Roper holds her high place among the Fair Women of
-England, and her story is very near the first in the Legend of Good
-Women.
-
-    “Morn broadened on the borders of the dark,
-    Ere I saw her, who clasped in the last trance
-    Her murder’d father’s head.”
-
-And, amid all the thronging shadows which people Chelsea’s shore, there
-walks no more vivid personality than his, as it moves before us through
-all his characteristic career; from the day he was taken from his school
-in Threadneedle Street, and made page-boy to Cardinal Morten, who said of
-him, seeing already his promise of wit and of worth: “This child here,
-waiting at table, whosoever shall live to see it, will prove a marvellous
-man;” then to Oxford on his scanty allowance; thence to New Inn and to
-Lincoln’s Inn, studying law by his father’s desire, albeit longing
-himself for the pulpit; then law-reader of Furnivall’s Inn, whence he was
-called to the bar at the age of twenty-one, and so going to live
-“religiously yet without vow” in the Charter-House; lecturing in St.
-Lawrence, Old Jewry, on Augustine’s “City of God,” listened to by “all
-the chief learned of London”; patiently practising his profession, taking
-“no fee of Widow, Orphane, or poor person”; becoming famous, near and
-far, for his capacity, learning, integrity; and thus elected to the House
-of Commons when only twenty-three, and soon made Speaker; rapidly rising
-to the highest place in the realm, that of Lord High Chancellor; and
-then, as he passed daily to his seat on the woolsack, stopping always
-before his aged father, who sat, as judge of the court of the King’s
-Bench, in William Rufus’s Hall at Westminster, and “reverently kneeling
-down in the sight of all, ask his blessing.”
-
-In the gallery of Old Masters at Brussels, I found lately, after long
-searching, a diminutive dark canvas set in a black frame, with a small
-gilt column on each side; its tiny tablet bears the inscription: “Holbein
-le jeune, 1497–1543.  Thomas Morus.”  This most attractive painting shows
-a table on which lies a small dog, peering at his master who sits behind;
-in More’s right hand, one finger between the leaves, he holds a book; his
-left hand grips his dark gown at the neck; a flat cap is on his head; a
-short curling beard, steadfast honest eyes, a plain, resolute, shrewd,
-strong face:—this is the man “in his habit as he lived” in the later
-years of his good life.
-
-This portrait—as well as the more famous group of More and his family,
-now in Nostell Priory—was painted by Hans Holbein, {48} while he was
-living with More.  He had grown tired of his dissipated life in Basle and
-of his wife, and had come to England with a letter of introduction to
-More, from Erasmus, whose portrait Holbein had just finished in Basle;
-and More was so pleased with the man that he gave him a home with
-himself.  Here were passed three of the happiest years of the great
-painter’s life, during which he did much good work.  Some of this was
-shown to the king on one of his visits, More having hung several of the
-portraits in a fine light for that purpose; and they so charmed the
-delicate-minded monarch that he asked, “if such an artist were still
-alive, and to be had for money?”  So it came to pass that Holbein, on
-losing his good friend, entered the king’s service, and there remained
-until his own death.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-After More’s execution, and the confiscation of his property—which is a
-tautological way of speaking of any of Henry’s murders—the house passed
-through many hands, noble and base, clean and dirty; and while everything
-is of interest concerning walls which, in Cicero’s words, “could give
-such good reason for their fame,” it would be but dry detail to follow
-their forlorn fortunes fully.  Of the noblemen and courtiers who dwelt
-here, few are worthy our notice: but I may mention that as early as 1586
-Lord and Lady Dacre had bought the house and estate; and here her
-brother, Thomas Sackville, often visited her, and from here many of his
-letters are dated.  Here he may have written his “Gorbudic,” the first
-English Tragedy.  It was Sackville who was sent to tell Queen Mary of
-Scots that her sentence was signed, and he it was who saw it executed.
-Lady Dacre, surviving her husband, willed the place to the great Lord
-Burleigh; and so it came to his son, Lord Robert Cecil, afterwards Earl
-of Salisbury.  He rebuilt the house and improved the place in 1619, so
-that even then it was “the greatest house in Chelsey.”  So great that,
-later, James I. found it just the place he wanted for his favourite “dear
-Steenie,” first Duke of Buckingham; giving its owner, then Craufield,
-Earl of Middlesex, snug lodgings in the Tower, in exchange.  Charles I.,
-as deeply infatuated with the Duke as his royal father had been, gave the
-estate out and out to him, in 1627; and his it remained until the
-Commonwealth seized on it.
-
-His son, George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham—a man worthy of, and
-worse even than his sire—regained the property by his shifty marriage
-with the daughter of Fairfax, and it was confirmed to him on the
-Restoration; but in 1664 it was sold, along with all the other estates of
-this poor and profligate scoundrel—the last and the lowest of the
-Villiers.  He was the Zimri of Dryden’s “Absalom and Achitophel”:
-
-    . . . “everything by starts and nothing long;
-    But, in the course of one revolving moon,
-    Was Chymist, Fidler, Statesman, and Buffoon.
-
-                                   * * * *
-
-    Beggar’d by fools, when still he found too late
-    He had his jest and they had his estate.”
-
-And Pope tells us, in his stinging verse, how “this lord of useless
-thousands ends” his ignoble life, deserted and despised:
-
-    “In the worst inn’s worst room, with mat half hung,
-    The floor of plaister and the walls of dung,
-    On once a flock bed, but repair’d with straw,
-    With tape-tied curtains, never meant to draw;
-    The George and Garter dangling from that bed
-    Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red;
-    Great Villiers lies!”
-
-It was the Earl of Bristol who bought the place from Buckingham, and it
-is at this time that we meet with a notice of it in Evelyn’s diary under
-the date 15th January, 1678–9: “Went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey
-and dined with the Countesse of Bristol in the greate house, formerly the
-Duke of Buckingham’s, a spacious and excellent place, for the extent of
-ground and situation in good aire.  The house is large but
-ill-contrived.”
-
-In 1682 the Marquis of Worcester, afterwards Duke of Beaufort, became the
-owner of the mansion; and from him it was named Beaufort House,
-thereafter always called so.  He selected this place that he might live,
-says Strype, “in an air he thought much healthier, and near enough to the
-town for business.”  In 1738 Sir Hans Sloane bought the house and soon
-after pulled it down; giving the famous Inigo Jones-gateway to the Earl
-of Burlington, who removed it to Chiswick, where it stands to-day in the
-gardens of the Duke of Devonshire’s Chiswick House, not far from the
-statue of the architect.  It was on meeting its disjointed stones, as
-they were being carted away, that Alexander Pope wrote the well-known
-lines:
-
-    _Passenger_: “O Gate, how com’st thou here?”
-
-    _Gate_: “I was brought from Chelsea last year,
-       Batter’d with wind and weather;
-       Inigo Jones put me together;
-    Sir Hans Sloane
-    Let me alone;
-       Burlington brought me hither.”
-
-Do not think, however, that this gateway is the only relic of More’s
-mansion; for the persevering prowler may find still another, well worth
-the search.  Where King’s Road curves about to Millman’s Street—known on
-the old maps of those days as the Lovers’ Walk, “A Way to Little
-Chelsea”—an ancient gateway gave entrance to More’s back garden and
-stables, and through it we may now pass into the Moravian Burial Ground.
-Here, in the peacefullest spot in all London, lie in rows, men and women
-on opposite sides, our Moravian brothers and sisters, “departed,” as
-their little headstones, in their touching simplicity, tell us.  Grass
-grows above them, great trees guard them; trees perhaps planted by More
-himself.  For this was part of the “very fine gardens” which Bowack
-speaks of; and that massive wall at the farther end was built in the
-century which saw the Armada.  In among the gardens of the houses beyond,
-may be found other bits of wall; all built of very narrow bricks, such as
-we trace in More’s chapel in Chelsea Old Church; bricks made only then,
-peculiar to that period, not seen since.  This largest piece we are
-looking at is still solid enough, though bulging here and there with its
-weight of over three hundred years, its bricks black with age and smoke;
-here are the traces of beams once set in it, here is a bit of an archway,
-there the remains of a fireplace.  Thomas More’s arm rested on this wall:
-it is part of him, and he mutely bequeaths it to our care.  It is well
-that we should claim salvage for this bit of wreckage thrown upon the
-beach of Time, with his mark upon it.
-
-The little brick cottage of the keeper of the graveyard is overrun with
-vines, and answers to the assurance of the antiquity of all within the
-enclosure.  The long low building of one room formerly serving as the
-Moravian Chapel is now used for a Sunday School.  As I glance through the
-windows in this Sunday sunset I see boys wriggling on board benches,
-struggling with big Bible names, and mad for the fresh air and the
-freedom outside; one belated boy, trying at the locked gate, does not
-look unhappy at being refused entrance.  There are memorial tablets on
-the chapel walls; one of them bears the name of “Christian Renatus, Count
-of Zinzendorf”; another that of “Maria Justina, Countess Reuss.”  These
-were the son and daughter of the great Zinzendorf; and to tell how these
-came here I must give you the story of another great Chelsea mansion,
-Lindsey House. {57}
-
-                     [Picture: The Houses at Chelsea]
-
-It still stands slightly slant-wise to the river road, just west of the
-quaint group of houses on the corner of Cheyne Walk and Beaufort Street.
-Its front has been stuccoed, and it has been otherwise modernized; but it
-has not been entirely robbed of its old-fashioned stateliness.  The five
-separate dwellings into which it was long ago divided have harboured some
-famous tenants; Martin the painter lived in that one which still inherits
-the old name, “Lindsey House.”  Here, too, lived Brunel, the great
-engineer; Bramah, famous for his locks, in another.  It was the Earl of
-Lindsey, who, about 1674, built this grand new mansion on the site of a
-former house: between Beaufort House, you see, and the river.  It
-remained in his family until 1750, when it was bought by Count Zinzendorf
-as a residence for himself and the Moravian Brethren of whom he was the
-head: and at the same time he bought from Sir Hans Sloane the stables of
-More’s mansion to be used as a chapel, and his garden for a graveyard.
-Zinzendorf was a man of a rare nature, lifted above all that is petty and
-paltry in ordinary life: a spiritual knight, he had founded in his youth,
-at Halle, a sort of knighthood, “The Slaves of Virtue” and also the
-“Order of the Grain of Mustard Seed;” teaching his disciples there,
-teaching the Dutchmen in Holland, and the negroes in Pennsylvania, {58}
-later—teaching and preaching all his life—the brotherhood of man, the
-essential unity of all forms of religion.  A true Catholic, his aim in
-life was to unite all sects.  As head and guardian of his little body of
-Herrnhuters, he had used his own fortune to buy 100,000 acres of land in
-North Carolina, from Lord Granville, in 1749; and in the following year
-he bought this property at Chelsea.  But no part of it now belongs to the
-Moravians, except this burial-ground; still in use, as we have seen,
-having been exempted by special provision from the Act of 1855, which
-closed the other intramural graveyards of London, by reason of this one
-burying but one body in each grave, and that so deeply.
-
-              [Picture: Lindsey House and Battersea Bridge]
-
-The name of Pennsylvania just mentioned comes to us again as we walk a
-little further west; for its famous founder, William Penn, is oddly
-enough associated with the notorious Cremorne Gardens, which lay just
-here.  The very name of this haunt of feasting and flirting by a peculiar
-irony was derived from the Viscount Cremorne, its former owner, “this
-most excellent man,” known, even when plain Thomas Dawson, before his
-peerage, as a model of all that was steady and sedate.  His second wife,
-the great-granddaughter of William Penn, was named Philadelphia, from the
-city of her birth—a good woman, whose character, her funeral sermon
-assures us, “it was difficult to delineate.”  She, becoming Lady
-Cremorne, and outliving her husband, inherited this charming villa and
-grounds, called Chelsea Farm; and left it at her death, in 1825, to her
-nephew, Granville Penn, “one of the Hereditary Governors and
-Proprietaries of the late Province of Pennsylvania.”  He soon sold it,
-and it became a den of drinking, dancing, devilry.  The ancient gilded
-barge, “The Folly,” moored on its river front, was once more the scene of
-just such orgies as it had known in its youth, during the roystering days
-of the Restoration.
-
-Past the prim and proper brick cottages, past the innocent nursery
-garden, which cover wicked old Cremorne: through new streets and
-crescents built on the site of the famous Ashburnham estate—where, in old
-days, stretched the great gardens of the learned Dr. Cadogan, filled with
-rarest medicinal plants: out beyond the high brick wall, massive with
-reserve and respectability, behind which hides old Stanley House—built by
-Sir Arthur Gorges, who was embalmed in his friend Spenser’s verse as
-Alcyon, for his talents and his conjugal affection, and who was here
-visited once by Queen Elizabeth; her thrifty-minded majesty accepting, as
-was her wont, the customary gift of greeting, “a faire jewell,” from her
-host:—so we come to the westernmost edge of Chelsea.  Here, standing on
-the little bridge which carries King’s Road across the deep railway
-cutting into Sand’s End, Fulham, we look over to an old plaster-fronted
-house, once known as Sandford Manor House.  This was one of the many
-residences of Mistress Eleanor Gwynne; and in it, a hundred years after
-her, lived Joseph Addison.  It has been newly plastered, the sloping roof
-raised a little, and the wings long since torn down; but it has been very
-slightly modernized otherwise; and Mr. McMinn, its occupant, with rare
-and real reverence has preserved its antique features; all the more
-marked by their contrast with the great modern gasometers beyond.
-Within, its square hall retains the old wainscotting, and the staircase
-remains as when Charles II. rode up it on his pony, for a freak.  The
-delightful little back garden is perhaps hardly altered since those days,
-except that the four walnut trees which Charles is said to have planted
-in the front garden have gone to decay and have recently been uprooted.
-At its foot, where now the railway cuts through, once ran “the creek with
-barges gliding deep, beside the long grass,” on the banks of which
-Addison went bird-nesting, in search of eggs for the young Earl of
-Warwick.  This was when he was thinking of marrying the lad’s mother, and
-the letters—still in existence—which he wrote from here to the little
-ten-year-old earl, are as genuine and charming as anything which ever
-came from his pen.  One of them begins: “The business of this is to
-invite you to a concert of music, which I have found out in the
-neighbouring wood.”  I wish space allowed me to quote more of these
-letters.  Although they are dated simply at Sand’s End, none other than
-Sandford House has ever stood which can make entirely good the
-descriptions of that country retreat, “whereto Mr. Addison often retires
-in summer.”  What would one not give to have been invited out there, on
-such an evening as Thackeray tells us of?
-
-    “When the time came to leave, Esmond marched homeward to his
-    lodgings, and met Mr. Addison on the road, walking to a cottage which
-    he had at Fulham, the moon shining on his handsome serene face.
-    ‘What cheer, brother?’ says Addison, laughing: ‘I thought it was a
-    foot-pad advancing in the dark, and behold, it is an old friend.  We
-    may shake hands, Colonel, in the dark; ’tis better than fighting by
-    daylight.  Why should we quarrel because thou art a Whig and I am a
-    Tory?  Turn thy steps and walk with me to Fulham, where there is a
-    nightingale still singing in the garden, and a cool bottle in a cave
-    I know of.  You shall drink to the Pretender, if you like.  I will
-    drink my liquor in my own way.’”
-
-               [Picture: Sandford Manor House, Sand’s End]
-
-On the corner of the little turning which leads to this house there
-stands a tavern called “The Nell Gwynne;” this, at the extreme western
-end of the parish, is matched by another of the same name on its
-easternmost edge; and between these two public-houses we may track many
-other footprints of this fair lady, “with whom, for all her frailties,
-the English people can never be angry,” as Peter Cunningham well says.
-She has left her trace on Chelsea, as she left it in her time on the
-light-minded monarch: both shown even yet in Chelsea Hospital, according
-to that tradition and popular belief which credit her with its founding.
-To this day the old pensioners worship her as their patron saint!  It is
-true that Louis XIV. had probably given the notion to the English King by
-his foundation a few years before of the _Invalides_ as a retreat for
-French veterans; it is true that as early as 1666 Evelyn had sent to
-Pepys, as Clerk of the Admiralty, a scheme for an Infirmary for Disabled
-English Sailors.  In his diary, January 27, 1681–82, Evelyn says: “This
-evening Sir Stephen Fox acquainted me again with his Majesty’s resolution
-of proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital for emerited soldiers;”
-and it is a matter of record that Sir Stephen Fox, first
-Paymaster-General of the Forces, was the potent factor in the founding.
-This may well be, but it is at least plausible, and certainly pleasant,
-to believe that this good-hearted woman, by a judicious and timely
-movement, brought about a sudden solution of the question, which had been
-only in suspension in the King’s mind.  The general destitution of the
-discharged soldiers after the Restoration had become a scandal to the
-King and to the country.  In olden times such men had found bread and ale
-and a night’s rest in monastic houses; but all this had been done away
-with by the Dissolution.  Now, the poor old fellows, who have known
-nothing all their lives but wars and camps, wander about, lame, hungry,
-helpless, in these dismal times of peace.  Even when able to work, there
-is no work for them.  Old John Hill, serving in the ranks all his life,
-and now turned adrift to carry the weight of eighty-two years, succeeds
-after long suing in being appointed to the poor post of beadsman at
-Gloucester, only to find that the King had just given it to another old
-soldier, and had forgotten it.  So it was all over the kingdom.  Nell
-Gwynne, seeing daily these warriors hobbling about,—the younger ones
-wounded for her lover at Dunbar and Worcester, the elder ones for her
-lover’s father at Naseby and Marston Moor,—was touched by the sight: she
-had been poor herself, yet strangely enough in her prosperity she was
-always prone to pity poverty.  They say that one day, a shabby soldier
-just escaped from Tangiers—probably an impostor—begged at her carriage
-door; and she drove home, and urged the King to do something for these
-disabled servants of the State.  And they say, too, that the shifty
-monarch, in giving the land for the hospital, made a pretty good thing of
-it for himself!
-
-There had been already a building on the ground, then nearly in ruins,
-the foundation walls of which may still be seen in the cellar of the
-chaplain’s house.  This was King James’s aborted College for polemic
-divinity—“A Colledge of Divines and other Learned Men at
-Chelsey”—nicknamed “Controversy College,” and intended to be “a spiritual
-garrison, with a magazine of all books.”  It was a failure.  Nobody would
-subscribe, for every man was giving his money, at this time, to repair
-St. Paul’s, and to help Sir Hugh Myddleton bring the New River into
-London; and only one-eighth of the plan was ever carried out.  The Royal
-Society used the building for a while; in one of its out-houses Prince
-Rupert invented the drops, which, in Macaulay’s words, “have long amused
-children and puzzled philosophers”; and by which, absurdly enough, his
-name is still kept alive; albeit his is a memorable figure, gallant in
-battle, ardent in love, devoted in science.  When he laid down the rapier
-for the retort, the broadsword for the blowpipe, he pursued chemistry
-even as he had pursued the flying Roundheads at Edge Hill, with equal
-ardour here on the quiet shore at Chelsea, far from the court and the
-crowd.  Later, the buildings, falling to pieces, were used even in 1653,
-along with barges moored on the river front, as a prison for the Dutch
-taken in the war.  Grave John Evelyn, one of the four Commissioners in
-control of all prisoners of war—he had rode with Rupert as a
-volunteer—comes to visit his charges on Ash Wednesday, 1665, and notes:
-“They only complained that their bread was too fine!”
-
-This was the site fixed on for the new infirmary; and in the _Monthly
-Recorder_ of February 17, 1682, you may read: “His Majesty went to
-Chelsey Colledge to lay the first stone, with several of the nobility,
-which is a place designed to be built and endowed by His Majesty for the
-relief of Indigent Officers, and Incouragement to serve His Majesty.”
-William and Mary finished the edifice; and it stands—an impressive
-monument of that union of proportion and of fitness by which Christopher
-Wren gave beauty to his plainest designs—in stately solidity in the midst
-of its thirty acres of ground.  It is handsomely supported, not only by
-government aid, but by valuable donations.  There are nearly eighty
-thousand out-pensioners and over five hundred inmates; these latter
-divided into companies, and doing mimic garrison duty in memory of their
-active days.  Prints of their popular commanders hang all round the walls
-of the great hall west of the grand entrance, once a dining-room, now
-used for reading and smoking.  In glass cases are the war medals left by
-veterans dying with no surviving relatives to claim them: on one we find
-nearly a dozen battles of the Peninsular campaigns; on another Badajos
-and Lucknow figure in curious conjunction; and rarest of all is one whose
-owner fought at Inkerman, Balaclava, and the Alma.  In this hall the body
-of the great Duke lay in state amid the memorials of his victories,
-guarded by his own veterans: successors of those other veterans exultant
-over the news of Waterloo, whom Wilkie had painted, years before, for the
-Duke himself.
-
-                 [Picture: Chelsea Hospital, River Front]
-
-Framed on the wall is a record of the battles, sieges, marches of the
-Coldstream Guards; which tells us that this famous body is the sole
-surviving representative of the force which placed Charles II. on the
-throne, and thus became the nucleus of the standing army of England.  The
-corps had been formed in 1650 by General George Monk, who made drafts of
-picked men from the various Cromwellian regiments, and led them on that
-famous march on the first day of the year 1660, from Coldstream to
-London, which saved the monarchy and gave the guard its historic name.
-In the chapel, beneath Sebastian Ricci’s great altar-piece, and under the
-tattered battle-flags, drooping faded and forlorn, you may see, on any
-Sunday, Hubert Herkomer’s picture in real life.  It is a touching scene,
-this entry of the veterans into their chapel, preceded by their fife and
-drum: still more touching, the funeral of one of their dead, as they
-parade painfully from the infirmary, the lone drummer and fife playing
-the Dead March in Saul.  In the quiet old burying-ground hard by, they
-lie compactly enough, the dead soldiers; and among them, women who have
-fought and died in men’s attire, their sex unsuspected until their death.
-
-Not only in this burial-ground, but in the quadrangles and courts, and
-everywhere about, there rests an air of repose, of forgetfulness of the
-turbulent world without.  Here, about the spacious central quadrangle, on
-massive wooden benches, loaf and smoke and chat the contented old boys;
-and growl, withal, in their content.  They decorate Grinling Gibbons’
-bronze statue of Charles II., posing as a Roman in the centre, with oak
-garlands on “Oak-Apple-Day,” May 29th, the anniversary of the
-Restoration; on that day they wear oak branches in their caps, and eat
-much plum-pudding at dinner.  Open towards the river, this quadrangle
-looks out on gracious gardens; just beyond is the great cross, set there
-to honour the victims of the Sepoy mutiny: “Some died in battle, some of
-wounds, some of disease, ALL in the devoted performance of Duty.”  A
-little farther out rises the obelisk commemorating those who fell on that
-dark and doubtful day at Chillian-wallah, January 13th, 1849.  As we
-stand here, beside a quiet Quaker cannon, these memorials to the devoted
-dead lift themselves directly in front; the terraced gardens slope to the
-river bank, their “carpet-beds” yellow with the tints of approaching
-autumn; the graceful towers and swaying chains of Chelsea Suspension
-Bridge seem floating in the air yonder; above the drooping limes and elms
-of the embankment the slim spars of lazy sloops slip slowly by; the
-gleaming river glides beneath, and away over beyond it the feathery
-masses of the trees of Battersea Park stand solidly against the sky.  The
-opulent summer sun floods the scene, and an enchanting stillness broods
-above all, broken only by the rare rumble of trains on the farther
-railway-bridge.  All things are half hid in the exquisite English haze:
-it softens every sharpness, harmonizes every harshness, rounds every
-shape to grace.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-The Old Soldiers have their own gardens near at hand, and as we stroll
-there we pass College Fields, perpetuating the name of King James’s
-College; and so on between double rows of lime trees, gnarled and bent,
-under which the amorous veterans flirt sedately with the demure
-nursemaids, whose neglected charges meanwhile play with the sheep.
-Through the gate we enter a small but well-arranged domain, divided into
-tiny squares; each planted by its owner in flowers or in vegetables as
-may suit him, so giving him a little more tobacco money by his sales.
-They seem fond of those plants which put themselves most in evidence; and
-their little gardens are all aglow with gorgeous hollyhocks, dahlias,
-sunflowers, of the most gigantic and highly coloured kinds.  It is a
-delight to watch the old fellows of a summer afternoon, bending intent on
-their toil in shirt-sleeves; or stalking stiffly about in their long red
-coats, senilely chaffing and cackling!
-
-You will be pleased, I hope, to learn that this little piece of ground is
-called Ranelagh Gardens, and is the sole surviving remnant of that famous
-resort so dear to an older generation.  “The R:t Hon:ble Richard Earle of
-Ranelagh,” as he is styled on the original “Ground Plot of the Royal
-Hospital” in the British Museum, being made one of the three
-commissioners appointed in the beginning to manage the young asylum,
-leases to himself seven acres of its grounds on the east, lying along the
-river, and there builds a grand mansion, in 1691; the gardens of which
-are “curiously kept and elegantly designed: so esteemed the best in
-England.”  This first Earl of Ranelagh has been one of the pupils of a
-certain schoolmaster named John Milton, probably at his house in Barbican
-in the City, so recently torn down.  The Earl becomes a famous man, in a
-different line from his teacher, and dying in 1712, leaves Ranelagh House
-and its gardens to his son; who sells the place in 1733 to Lacy,
-Garrick’s partner in the Drury Lane theatre patent; to be made by him a
-place of open-air amusement, after the manner of the favourite Vauxhall.
-But “it has totally beat Vauxhall,” writes Horace Walpole.  “Nobody goes
-anywhere else, everybody goes there.  My Lord Chesterfield is so fond of
-it, that he says he has ordered all his letters to be directed thither.”
-Of course, he has his sneer at the “rival mobs” of the two places; but he
-does not disdain to show himself a very swell mob’s man, in his famous
-carouse at Ranelagh, with Miss Ashe and Lady Caroline Petersham.  His
-father, Sir Robert, was proud to parade here his lovely mistress, Miss
-Chudleigh; “not over clothed,” as Leigh Hunt delicately puts it.  The
-manners and morals of this place and this time have never been so pithily
-presented as in George Selwyn’s _mot_, on hearing that one of the waiters
-had been convicted of robbery: “What a horrid idea he’ll give of us to
-those fellows in Newgate!”
-
-At this distance, however, the fêtes, frolics, fire-works and all the
-fashionable frivolity of the place look bright and bewildering.  Nor did
-grave and reverend men disdain to spend their evenings at Ranelagh—“to
-give expansion and gay sensation to the mind,” as staid old Dr. Johnson
-asserted!  Goldsmith felt its gaiety, when he came here to forget the
-misery of his lodging in Green Arbour Court, where now stands the Holborn
-Viaduct station.  Laurence Sterne, fresh to the town from his Yorkshire
-parsonage, finding himself in great vogue—his portrait much stared at, in
-Spring Gardens, one of the four sent there, selected by Sir Joshua as his
-choicest works—plunged forthwith into all sorts of frivolities, and was
-seen in Ranelagh more often than was considered seemly.  Smollett
-sometimes emerged from out his Chelsea solitude for a sight of this
-festive world; Fielding came here to study the scenes for his “Amelia”;
-and Addison, too, who chats about the place in his _Spectator_. {80}  It
-is spoken of in the _Connoisseur_ and the _Citizen of the World_; the
-poet Bloomfield introduced it, and Fanny Burney placed here a scene in
-her “Evelina.”  At this time—just one hundred years ago—she was a little
-past twenty-six, and was living with her father, Dr. Burney, recently
-made organist of the hospital chapel, next door.  Ranelagh had then begun
-to “decline and fall off,” in Silas Wegg’s immortal phrase: having been
-open since 1742, it was finally closed at the beginning of this century,
-its artificial oil-moon paling before the rising radiance of gas-lighted
-new Cremorne.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-On an old tracing of the Hospital boundaries kept in its archives, I
-found this inscription: “To answer the Earl of Ranelagh’s house on the
-east side of the College, an house was builded in the Earl of Orford’s
-garden on the west side.”  This was the house into which Sir Robert
-Walpole moved from his lodgings near by, where now Walpole Street runs;
-the same lodgings in which the Earl of Sandwich had lived long before.
-The Edward Montague, who, as Commander of the fleet, brought Charles II.
-back to England, was made Earl of Sandwich for this service, and in 1663
-he came to live in Chelsea, “to take the ayre.”  But there was a “Mrs.
-Betty Becke,” his landlady’s daughter, who seems to have been the real
-reason for this retirement, and at whom the moral Pepys sneers as “a
-slut.”  He writes under date of September 9, 1663: “I am ashamed to see
-my lord so grossly play the fool, to the flinging off of all honour,
-friends, and servants, and everything and person that is good, with his
-carrying her abroad, and playing on the lute under her window, and forty
-other poor sordid things, which I am grieved to hear.”  Having occasion
-to visit his chief here, on naval business, the Clerk of the Admiralty
-finds him “all alone, with one joynte of meat, mightily extolling the
-manner of his retirement, and the goodness of his diet;” and was so
-perturbed, and so loyal withal, as to dare to write him, “that her
-wantonness occasioned much scandal, though unjustly, to his Lordship.”
-Nor was his Lordship offended by this frankness, but remained friendly to
-his Secretary.
-
-Crossing through court and quadrangle and garden, to the western side of
-the Hospital, we are allowed to enter its infirmary, and to pass into
-ward No. 7.  Here we stand in Sir Robert Walpole’s dining-room, unchanged
-since he left it, except that the array of fine Italian pictures has gone
-from the walls, and that decrepid soldiers lie about on cots, coughing
-and drinking gruel from mugs.  But for all this, perhaps by reason of all
-this, this room, with its heavily moulded ceiling, its stately marble
-mantle—in severe white throughout—is one of the most impressive relics of
-by-gone grandeur in all London.  The house, grand in its day, grand still
-in its mutilation, was built by Sir John Vanbrugh, whose
-architecture—florid and faulty, but with a dignity of its own, such as
-strikes one in his masterpiece, Blenheim, called by Thackeray “a piece of
-splendid barbarism”—was as heavy as his comedies were light; and served
-to bring on him Swift’s epitaph:
-
-    “Lie heavy on him earth, for he
-    Hath laid many a heavy load on thee.”
-
-This one end—all that remains of the old red-brick mansion—has been
-raised a storey, but otherwise stands almost as when Walpole lived here
-from 1723 to 1746, and from its chambers ruled England through his
-subjects George I. and George II., whom he allowed to reign.  It was from
-this room that he rushed out on the arrival of the express with the news
-of the death of the first George.  He left his dinner-table at three p.m.
-on the 14th June, 1727, and took horse at once:—so riding that he “killed
-two horses under him,” says his son Horace:—and was the first to reach
-the Prince of Wales at Richmond with the news.  To Walpole House used to
-drive, from her palace at Kensington, the wife of this same Prince of
-Wales; who, now become George II., cheered her solitude by writing to her
-long letters from his residence at Hanover, filled with praises of his
-latest lady-love.  These epistles the fair-haired, blue-eyed,
-sweet-voiced woman would bring weeping to Walpole, in search of the
-comfort which he graciously gave, by assuring her that now that she was
-growing old she must expect this sort of thing!  A little later Walpole
-drove from here to Kensington, and stood beside the King at her deathbed;
-Caroline commending to Walpole’s protection her husband and his monarch!
-Here came Bolingbroke on his return from his exile in France, to dine at
-the invitation of his great rival, whom he hated and envied.  It was not
-a joyful dinner for him, and Horace Walpole tells us that “the first
-morsel he put into his mouth was near choking him, and he was reduced to
-rise from the table and leave the room for some minutes.  I never heard
-of their meeting more.”  Here Swift used to stride into dinner, studying
-his host for the _rôle_ of Flimnap in his “Gulliver,” which he was then
-writing.  Here fat John Gay, then secretary or steward to Lady Monmouth,
-a little farther on in Chelsea, swaggered in his fine clothes, and being
-snubbed by his cynical host, put him on the stage as “Macheath” in his
-“Beggar’s Opera.”  Pope used to drive over in his little trap from
-Twickenham, before his friend Bolingbroke’s return, to entertain Sir
-Robert with the details of his row about Lady Mary Wortley Montague with
-Lord Hervey; that be-rouged fop whom he pilloried in his rage, as
-
-    “This painted child of dirt that stinks and stings.”
-
-The famous gardens, on which the gay and extravagant Lady Walpole spent
-her time and money, have been built over by the successive additions to
-the Infirmary; and we no longer can see the conservatory and grotto,
-without which in those days no garden was considered complete.  The bit
-of ground left serves now for the convalescent soldiers, and the graceful
-tree in the centre, its branches growing horizontally out from the top of
-the trunk, forms a natural arbour, which they mightily enjoy upon a sunny
-afternoon.  Down at the lower end of the garden, a bit of rotting wooden
-fence set above a sunken wall marks the line of the river-bank as it ran
-before the building of the embankment.  Just here, on a pleasant terrace
-and in its summer-house, that royal scamp, George IV., was fond of
-philandering with his fair friends; this scene suggesting a curious
-contrast with the group once surely sitting or strolling here—a group
-made up of no less august personages than Charles II. and the Earl of
-Sandwich with the Duchess of Mazarin, followed by “her adoring old
-friend” St. Evremond.  For that lovely and luckless lady lived just
-across the road, outside these grounds; and to her house in Paradise Row
-I wish now to take you.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-All that is now left of old Paradise Row is half a dozen small brick
-cottages, with tiny gardens in front, and vines climbing above.  Once,
-when all about here was country, these dwellings must have been really
-delightful, and have justified the suggestion of their name, looking out
-as they did on pleasant parterres, terraced to the river.  Unpretending
-as they are, they have harboured many historic personages.  In Paradise
-Row—it is now partly Queen’s Road West—lived the first Duke of St.
-Albans, Nell Gwynne’s son, not far from the more modest mansion of his
-venerated grandmother, among the “neat-houses” at Millbank.  Her garden
-sloped down to the river, and therein she fell one day, and was drowned;
-and they wrote a most woeful ballad “Upon that never-to-be-forgotten
-matron, old Madame Gwynn, who died in her own fish-pond;” and it would
-seem from these ribald rhymes that the lamented lady was fat and fond of
-brandy!  This latter weakness is also the theme of Rochester’s muse, in
-his “Panegyric upon Nelly,” when he commends her scorn of cost in the
-funeral rites—
-
-          “To celebrate this martyr of the ditch.
-    Burnt Brandy did in flaming Brimmers flow,
-    Drunk at her Fun’ral: while her well-pleased Shade
-    Rejoic’d, e’en in the sober Fields below,
-    At all the Drunkenness her Death had made!”
-
-In old Paradise Row also lived the Earls of Pelham and of Sandwich, and
-the Duchess of Hamilton.  At the corner of Robinson’s Lane—now Flood
-Street—stood Lord Robarte’s house, wherein he gave the famous supper to
-Charles II. on the 4th of September, 1660, and was soon after made Earl
-of Radnor: whence the street of that name hard by.  On April 19, 1665,
-Pepys visited him here, and “found it to be the prettiest contrived house
-that ever I saw in my life.”  It stood there until within a few weeks, a
-venerable tavern known as “The Duke’s Head”: now gone the way of so much
-historic brick and mortar!  Latest of all our Chelsea celebrities,
-Faulkner, the historian of Chelsea, lived on the corner of Paradise Row,
-and what was then Ormond Row, now commonplace Smith Street.  A quiet,
-quaint old public-house, “The Chelsea Pensioner,” stands where Faulkner
-worked with such pains, on his driest of records; yet to them we are all
-glad to go for many of our facts about modern Chelsea.  These poor little
-plaster-fronted cottages, stretching from this corner to Christchurch
-Street, now represent the once stately Ormond Row; and the swinging sign
-of the “Ormond Dairy” is all we have to commemorate old Ormond House,
-which stood just here.  In its gardens, sloping to the river bank,
-Walpole’s later house was built, as we have seen it to-day.
-
-                         [Picture: Paradise Row]
-
-Let us stop again before the little two-storied house, the easternmost of
-Paradise Row, standing discreetly back from the street behind a prim plot
-of grass; well-wrought-iron gates are swung on square gate-posts, a-top
-of each of which is an old-fashioned stone globe, of the sort seldom seen
-nowadays.  A queer little sounding-board projects over the small door;
-and above the little windows we read “School of Discipline, Instituted
-A.D. 1825.”  It is the oldest school of the kind in London, was founded
-by Elizabeth Fry, and in it young girls, forty-two at a time, each
-staying two years, “are reformed for five shillings a week,” and fitted
-for domestic service.  They wear very queer aprons, their hair is
-plastered properly, their shoes are clumsy; and no queerer contrast was
-ever imagined than that between them and the perfumed, curled,
-high-heeled dame, who once lived here.  She is well worth looking back
-at, as we sit here in her low-ceilinged drawing-room, darkly panelled, as
-are hall and staircase by which we have passed in entering.
-
-Hortensia Mancini, the daughter of Cardinal Mazarin’s sister, had been
-married while very young to some Duke, who was allowed to assume the name
-of Mazarin on his marriage.  A religious fanatic, he soon shut her up in
-a convent, from which she took her flight and found her way to England in
-boy’s costume.  There, as the handsomest woman in Europe, her coming
-caused commotion among her rivals, all remembering the flutter she had
-excited in Charles II. during his exile in France.  Ruvigny {91} writes:
-“She has entered the English court as Armida entered the camp of
-Godfrey.”  Indeed, this one soon showed that she, too, was a sorceress;
-and Rochester, in his famous “Farewell,” acclaims her the “renowned
-Mazarine, first in the glorious Roll of Infamy.”  Living luxuriously and
-lavishly for a while, until by the death of her royal lover she lost her
-pension of £4000 yearly, she came at length to this little house as her
-last dwelling-place; and even here, reduced to real poverty, unable to
-pay her butcher or her baker, written down on the Parish books of 1695,
-“A Defaulter of the Parish Rates:” she yet persisted in giving grand
-dinners—the cost of which (so old Lysons heard) was met by each guest
-leaving monies under his napkin!  For all that, this modest mansion was
-the favourite resort of famous men of her day; who lounged in of an
-evening to discuss and speculate, to play at her basset-tables, to listen
-to her music, mostly dramatic, the forerunner of Italian opera in this
-country.  Here came Sydney Godolphin, that rare man who was “never in the
-way, and yet never out of the way;” here the king was frequently found;
-here Saint Evremond was always found!  How real to us is the figure of
-this gallant old Frenchman, as we see him in the National Portrait
-Gallery: his white hair flowing below his black cap; his large forehead;
-his dark blue eyes; the great wen that grew in his later years between
-them, just at the top of his nose: a shrewd, kindly, epicurean face.  He
-came of a noble Norman family from Denis le Guast, this Charles de Saint
-Denys, Seigneur de Saint Evremond.  Entering the army at an early age, he
-rose rapidly to a captaincy; his bravery and his wit—a little less than
-that of Voltaire, whom he helped to form, says Hallam—making him the
-friend of Turenne, of the great Condè, and of others of that brilliant
-band.  Satirizing Mazarin, he was locked in the Bastille for three
-months; and when free, he finally fled from the cardinal’s fury, and came
-to England: here to end his days, waiting on this still fascinating
-woman, worshipping her, advising her, writing plays for her, and poetry
-to her.  He held the rank of Governor of Duck Island, in the ornamental
-water of St. James’s Park—an office invented for him by Charles II., and
-having a fine title, a large salary, and no duties.  You may throw bread
-to-day to the lineal descendants of those ducks of which the King was so
-fond.  Saint Evremond died in 1703, and lies in the Poet’s Corner of
-Westminster Abbey, near to Chaucer and Beaumont and Dryden; his adored
-lady having died in 1699 in this very house.  She was not buried; for
-after all these years of self-effacement her devoted husband again
-appears, has her body embalmed, and carries it with him wherever he
-journeys.
-
-Mary Astell lived and died in her little house in Paradise Row; a near
-neighbour of, and a curious contrast to, the Duchess of Mazarin, whom she
-pointed at in her writings as a warning of the doom decreed to beauty and
-to wit, when shackled in slavery to Man, and so dis-weaponed in the fight
-against fate and forgetfulness.  _She_ devoted herself to celibacy and
-“to the propagation of virtue,” as Smollett slily put it.  Congreve
-satirized her, too; Swift stained her with his sneers as “Madonella;”
-Addison and Steele made fun of her in their gentler way.  Doubtless there
-was something of _la Précieuse Ridicule_ to that generation in the aspect
-of this most learned lady, who wrote pamphlets and essays; in which,
-following More’s lead, she urged the higher education of her sex; and
-preached as well as practised persistent protests against the folly of
-those pretty women, “who think more of their glasses than of their
-reflections.”  She inveighed much—this in our modern manner—against
-marriage, and woman’s devotion to man; putting it with point and pith,
-that Woman owes a duty to Man “only by the way, just as it may be any
-man’s duty to keep hogs; he was not made for this, but if he hires
-himself out for this employment, he is bound to perform it
-conscientiously.”  One good work of hers still survives.  Failing to
-found among her female friends a College or Community for Celibacy and
-Study, she induced Lady Elizabeth Hastings—her immortalized as the
-Aspasia of the _Tatler_ by Congreve and by Steele, and to whom the latter
-applied his exquisite words, “to love her is a liberal education”—and
-other noble ladies to endow in 1729 a school for the daughters of old
-pensioners of the Royal Hospital; and this little child’s charity was the
-precursor and harbinger of the present grand asylum at Hampstead, which
-clothes, educates, and cares for these girls.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-It is but a step to the spacious, many-windowed brick building in the
-King’s Road; on the pediment of which, in Cheltenham Terrace, we read:
-“The Royal Military Asylum for the Children of Soldiers of the Regular
-Army.”  It is popularly known as the “Duke of York’s School,” and is
-devoted to the training of the orphan boys of poor soldiers.  It is a
-pleasant sight to watch them going through their manœuvres in their
-gravel ground; or, off duty, playing football and leap-frog.  They bear
-themselves right martially in their red jackets and queer caps, a few
-proudly carrying their corporal’s yellow chevrons, a fewer still prouder
-of their “good conduct stripes.”  It was “B 65,” big with the double
-dignity of both badges of honour, who unbent to my questioning; and
-explained that the lads are entered at the age of ten, can remain until
-fourteen, can then become drummers if fitted for that vocation, or can
-give up their army career and take their chances in civilians’ pursuits.
-
-We may not pause long before the iron gates which let us look in on the
-mansion named Blacklands; now a private mad-house, and the only remnant
-of the great estate once owned by Lord Cheyne, and which covered more
-than the extent of Sloane Street and Square, Cadogan and Hans Place: all
-these laid out and built by Holland in 1777, and by him called Hans Town.
-We might have stopped, a while ago, in front of the vast Chelsea
-barracks, just to the south, to look at the faded plaster-fronted shop,
-opposite.  “The Old Chelsea Bun-House,” its sign assured us it was,
-before its demolition last year; yet it was only the descendant of the
-original house, which stood a little farther east up Pimlico Road,
-formerly Jews’ Road.  That once mal-odorous street is yet fragrant with
-the buns baked there in the last century, when the little shop was
-crowded with dainty damsels in hoops and furbelows, with gallants in wigs
-and three-cornered hats, while stately flunkies strode in the street
-below.  “Pray, are not the fine buns sold here in our town as the rare
-Chelsea buns?  I bought one to-day in my walk”—Swift tells Stella in his
-journal for 1712.  Half-mad George III. and Queen Charlotte—she popularly
-known as “Old Snuffy”—were fond of driving out to Chelsea Bun-House, to
-sit on its verandah munching buns, much stared at by the curious crowd.
-The old building was torn down in 1839, “to the general regret in London
-and its environs,” its crazy collection of poor pictures, bogus antiques,
-and genuine Chelsea ware being sold by auction; all of which is duly
-chronicled in “The Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and Instruction” of
-April 6, 1839.
-
-Turning back again to Paradise Row, we glance across the road at a great
-square mansion standing in spacious grounds, used as the Victoria
-Hospital for Children, a beneficent institution.  This is Gough House,
-built by that profane Earl of Carberry, who diced and drank and dallied
-in company with Buckingham and Rochester and Sedley.  Early in the last
-century it came into possession of Sir John Gough, whence the name it
-still retains.  Nearly two centuries of odd doings and of queer social
-history tenant these walls; but we can pause no longer than to glance at
-the little cots standing against the ancient wainscotting of the stately
-rooms, and the infant patients toddling up the massive oak staircases.
-
-                          [Picture: Tite street]
-
-We turn the corner, and pass through Tite Street, and so come, in
-refreshing contrast with its ambitious artificiality, to a bit of genuine
-nature—a great garden stretching from Swan Walk and the Queen’s Road, and
-fronting just here on the Embankment.  On one of the great stone posts of
-this entrance—once the water-gate—we read: “The Botanic Garden of the
-Society of Apothecaries of London, A.D. 1673;” on the other: “Granted to
-the Society in Perpetuity by Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., A.D. 1723.”  These
-grounds remain intact as when in this last-named year four acres of Lord
-Cheyne’s former domain were made over to the Society of Apothecaries for
-“The Chelsea Physick Garden;” with permission to build thereon a
-barge-house and offices, for their convenience when they came up the
-river.  The buildings were demolished in 1853, but the gardens have
-bravely held out against the Vandal hordes of bricklayers and builders;
-and in them all the herbs of Materia Medica which can grow in the open
-air are cultivated to this very day for the instruction of medical
-students, just as when Dr. Johnson’s Polyphilus—the universal genius of
-the _Rambler_—started to come out here from London streets to see a new
-plant in flower.  The trees are no longer so vigorous as when Evelyn, so
-fond of fine trees, praised them; and of the twelve noble Cedars of
-Lebanon planted by the hand of Sir Hans, but one still stands; and this
-one, even in its decrepitude, is nearly as notable, it seems to me, as
-that glorious unequalled one in the private garden of Monseigneur the
-Archbishop of Tours.  In the centre stands the statue of Sir Hans Sloane,
-put up in 1733, chipped and stained by wind and weather.  For, in this
-garden Hans Sloane studied, and when he became rich and famous and bought
-the manor of Chelsea, he gave the freehold of this place to the
-Apothecaries’ Company on condition that it should be devoted for ever to
-the use of all students of nature.
-
-Westward a little way, we come to “Swan House.”  This modern-antique
-mansion stands on the site of, and gets its name from, the “Old Swan
-Tavern,” which has been gone these fifteen years now, and which stood
-right over the river, with projecting wooden balconies, and a land
-entrance from Queen’s Road.  It and its predecessor—a little lower down
-the river—were historic public-houses resorted to by parties pleasuring
-from town; and this was always a house of call for watermen with their
-wherries, as we find so well pictured in Marryat’s “Jacob Faithful.”
-Here Pepys turned back on the 9th of April, 1666; having come out for a
-holiday, and “thinking to have been merry at Chelsey; but being come
-almost to the house by coach near the waterside, a house alone, I think
-the Swan,” he learned from a passer-by that the plague had broken out in
-this suburb, and that the “house was shut up of the sickness.  So we with
-great affright . . . went away for Kensington.”  The old fellow—he was
-young then—was fond of taking boat or coach, “to be merry at Chelsey”;
-often with Mrs. Knipp, the pretty actress; sometimes with both her and
-his wife, and then he drily complains to his diary—“and my wife out of
-humour, as she always is when this woman is by.”  Yet the critics claim
-that he had no sense of fun!  Until the “Old Swan” was torn down, it
-served as the goal for the annual race which is still rowed on the first
-day of every August from the “Old Swan Tavern” at London Bridge, by the
-young Thames watermen, for the prize instituted in 1715 by Doggett—that
-fine low comedian of Queen Anne’s day: a silver medal stamped with the
-white horse of Hanover (in commemoration of the First George’s
-coronation), and a waterman’s orange-coloured coat full of pockets, each
-pocket holding a golden guinea.
-
-       [Picture: Statue of Sir Han’s Sloane in the Botanic Gardens]
-
-Just beyond, at Flood Street, begins Cheyne Walk; still, despite almost
-daily despoiling, despite embankments and gas and cabs, the most
-old-fashioned, dignified, and impressive spot in all London.  Those of
-its modest brick houses which remain have not been ruined by too many
-modern improvements; they are prim and respectable, clad in a sedate
-secluded sobriety, not at all of this day.  Their little front gardens
-are unpretending and almost sad.  Between them and the street are fine
-specimens of old wrought iron in railings and in gates, in last century
-brackets for lamps, in iron extinguishers for the links they used to
-carry.  The name “Hans Sloane House” is wrought in open iron letters, in
-the gate of No. 17; in others, the numbers alone are thus worked in the
-antique pattern.  “Manor House” has an attractive old plaster front; on
-another a shining brass plate, dimly marked “Gothic House” in well-worn
-letters, is just what we want to find there.  In No. 4 died, on the night
-of the 22nd December, 1880, Mrs. John Walter Cross, more widely known as
-George Eliot.  And in this same house lived for many years Daniel
-Maclise, the painter of the two grandest national pictures yet produced
-in England; “the gentlest and most modest of men,” said his friend
-Charles Dickens.  Here he died on the 25th of April, 1870, and from here
-he was carried to Kensal Green.
-
-                      [Picture: No. 4, Cheyne Walk]
-
-In No. 15 lived for a long time that youthful genius, Cecil Lawson; whose
-admirable works, rejected at one time by the Royal Academy, have been
-hung in places of honour, since.  One would be glad to have stepped from
-his studio into that next door, No. 16, and to have seen Dante Gabriel
-Rossetti at work there. {109}  His house—now again known by its ancient
-and proper title, “Queen’s House”—stands back between court and garden,
-its stately double front bowed out by a spacious central bay, the famous
-drawing-room on the first floor taking the whole width.  This great bay,
-as high as the house, is not so old, however; and must be an addition of
-more recent years; for the house itself plainly dates from the days of
-the Stuarts.  Indeed, it shows the influence, if not the very hand, of
-the admirable Wren; not only in the external architecture, but in the
-perfect proportion to all its parts of the panelling, the windows, the
-doorways within.  All the hall-ways and the rooms, even to the kitchen,
-are heavily wainscotted; and there mounts, up through the whole height of
-the interior, a spiral staircase, its balustrade of finest hand-wrought
-iron.  So, too, are the railings and the gateway of the front courtyard,
-as you see them in our sketch; and, while much of their dainty detail has
-been gnawed away by the tooth of time, they still show the skill, the
-patience, and the conscience of the workers of that earlier day.  The
-iron crown which once topped this gate has long since been taken away;
-but we may still trace in twisted iron the initials “C. R.,” and we may
-still see these same initials in larger iron lettering within the pattern
-of the back-garden railings.  Catherine of Braganza, Queen of England, is
-the name they are believed to commemorate; and legend says that this
-house was once tenanted by, and perhaps built for, that long-suffering
-consort of Charles II.  I like to fancy her within these walls—the
-brilliant brunette stepping down from Lely’s canvas at Hampton Court or
-at Versailles; whose superb black eyes were celebrated by the court poet,
-Edmund Waller, in an ode on her birthday, and were characterized by
-sedate John Evelyn as “languishing and excellent”; and who was pronounced
-to be “mighty pretty” by that erudite and studious critic of female
-beauty, Samuel Pepys.  She wears the black velvet costume so becoming to
-her, and divides her days between pious rites and frisky dances—devoted
-equally to both!  A narrow, bigoted, good woman, this: yet, withal,
-simple, confiding, affectionate, modest, patient under neglect from her
-husband, and under insult from his mistresses; deserving a little longer
-devotion than the six weeks Charles vouchsafed to her after their
-marriage, never deserving the lampoons with which Andrew Marvel befouled
-her.
-
-                [Picture: Gateway of Rossetti’s old house]
-
-When this front courtyard of “Queen’s House” happened to be dug up, not
-long ago, three sorts of bricks were unearthed: those of modern make,
-those of the Stuart time, those of the Tudor type.  These latter were the
-same narrow flat ones spoken of as being found in More’s chapel and wall;
-and were evidently the wreckage of the water-gate once standing here,
-giving entrance, together with the water stairway, from the river—running
-close alongside then—to the palace of Henry VIII.  And in the foundations
-of “Queen’s House” are to be seen remains of that Tudor stone-work;
-while, in the cellars of the adjacent houses are heavy nail-studded doors
-and windows, and similar survivals of that old Palace.  It was built just
-here by the King, who had learned to like Chelsea, in his visits to More.
-He had bartered land elsewhere—presumably stolen by him—for the old Manor
-House standing farther west, near the Church, which belonged to the
-Lawrence family.  That not suiting him, he built this new Manor House—a
-little back from the river bank, and a little east of where Oakley Street
-now runs—its gardens reaching nearly to the present Flood Street, Manor
-Street having been cut through their midst.  It was of brick, its front
-and its gateway much like that of St. James’s Palace, as it looks up St.
-James’s Street; that built just before this, by Wolsey, and “conveyed” to
-himself by the King.  An old document describes the Manor House, as the
-“said capital messuage, containing on the first floor, 3 cellars, 3
-halls, 3 kitchens, 3 parlours, 9 other rooms and larders; on the second
-floor, 3 drawing rooms and 17 chambers, and above, Summer-rooms, closets
-and garrets; 1 stable and 1 coach-house.”  That seems not so very grand
-in the eyes of our modern magnificence.
-
-I have been able to trace the great grounds of the palace, covered in
-part with streets and houses as they now are, and in part forming the
-rear gardens of this end of Cheyne Walk.   And in these gardens are still
-standing here and there remnants of the ancient encircling walls.  The
-fine garden of Queen’s House was originally a portion of the palace
-grounds, and stood intact even to Rossetti’s time; something of its
-extent then being shown in our sketch.  The noble lime trees still stand
-there, and among them two strange exotic trees, their leaves unknown to
-the local gardeners.  This garden is now partly built on by new mansions,
-partly usurped by their gardens.  In two of the latter—spreading out into
-both—stands the mulberry tree planted by the hand of the Princess
-Elizabeth, still sturdy in its hale old age.  At the back of other houses
-a little farther west, notably in the garden of Mr. Druse, stand some
-very ancient trees; and I saw there, not very long ago—but gone, for ever
-now—a bit of crumbling wall, and an arch, within which were the old
-hinges whereon a gate was once hung.  That gate gave entrance from the
-land side, by a path leading across the fields from the King’s Road, to
-the palace grounds; and through it, Seymour slipped on his secret visits
-to Katherine Parr, as we know by a letter of hers: “I pray you let me
-have knowledge over night, at what hour ye will come, that your portress
-may wait at the gate to the fields for you.”  And she and Seymour had
-their historic romps under these very trees with the Princess Elizabeth,
-then a girl of thirteen.  Within doors, too, there were strange pranks
-“betwixt the Lord Admiral, and the Lady Elizabeth’s Grace,” as was later
-confessed by Katherine Aschyly, her maid.  When the young lady learned
-that Miss Aschyly and Her Cofferer were under examination in the Tower,
-says the old chronicler, “She was marvelous abashede, and ded weype very
-tenderly a long Time, demandyng of my Lady Browne wether they had
-confessed anything!”  Katherine Parr did not enjoy these frolics, and
-sometimes was furious with jealousy on finding them out; but for all
-that, she patiently returned to her persistent pious writing, too kindly
-a nature to harbour malice or suspicion.
-
-                [Picture: Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s garden]
-
-Elizabeth had come to live in the Manor House, at the age of four, that
-she might grow up in that healthful air: her father placing, with his
-customary delicacy, the daughter of Anne Boleyn under the care and
-tuition and example of his latest wife, the staid and studious Katherine
-Parr.  To this latter, the King had given, on their marriage, the Manor
-House as her jointure; and there she lived in great state, after Henry’s
-death.  Already before their marriage, even then a wistful widow, she had
-been bewitched by Seymour; and had meant to marry him, but for being
-forced to submit to the King’s will to make her his queen.  Once queen,
-she seemed to subdue her passion for Seymour; says the naïve ancient
-chronicler, “it does not appear that any interruption to connubial
-comforts arose out of that particular source.”  The estimable monarch
-rotted to death at the end of January, 1546–7, and the month of May was
-made merry to his widow—but thirty-five years old—by her secret marriage
-with Seymour.  He was a turbulent, unscrupulous, handsome rascal, a
-greedy gambler, an insane intriguer; brother of the Protector Somerset,
-maternal uncle of King Edward VII., brother-in-law of the King; and he
-had tried to marry the Princess Elizabeth, then a girl of thirteen or
-fourteen, even while coquetting with the Queen-Dowager Katherine Parr.
-The girl with her Boleyn blood doubtless delighted in the mystery of the
-secret visits, which she knew of, and in the secret marriage later, which
-she surely suspected.  The Queen-Dowager must have found it a trying and
-turbulent task to train her, and had more comfort in her other pupil,
-little Lady Jane Grey; who came here often for a visit, and for sympathy
-in the studies in which she was already a prodigy, even then at the age
-of eleven.  She is a pure and perfect picture, this lovely and gentle
-girl, amid all these cruel and crafty creatures; but we cannot follow her
-farther in the touching tragedy, in which she played the innocent
-usurper, the blameless martyr.  Nor can we say more of Katherine
-Parr—probably poisoned by her husband—nor of his death on the block, nor
-of the rascally and wretched record of the future owners of this Manor
-House; but let us come directly down to the year 1712, when it was sold
-by Lord William Cheyne, lord of the manor, widely known as “Lady Jane’s
-husband,” to Sir Hans Sloane.  It was looked on then as a grand place,
-and Evelyn, visiting Lord Cheyne and Lady Jane, notes in his diary that
-the gardens are fine, the fountains “very surprising and extraordinary.”
-These had been designed by Winstanley, him who built Eddystone
-Lighthouse, and who perished therein.
-
-Hans Sloane had come up to London, a young Irish student of medicine;
-and, frequenting the Botanical Gardens in Chelsea, just in view of this
-Manor House, he must often have looked at and perhaps longed to live in
-the roomy old mansion.  After his return from Jamaica, he pursued his
-studies with such success that he was made President of the Royal Society
-on the death of Sir Isaac Newton, in 1727.  He became a famous physician,
-was doctor to the Queens Anne and Caroline, as well as to George I., who
-made him a baronet in 1716; the first physician so ennobled in England.
-As he grew in wealth he bought much property in Chelsea, first this Manor
-House—wherein he lived for fourteen years, and wherein he died—then
-More’s house, then land in other quarters of this suburb.  His name is
-perpetuated in Sloane Square and in Hans Place, and his property now
-forms the estate of the Earl of Cadogan, whose ancestor, the famous
-General Cadogan, a Colonel of the Horse Guards in Marlborough’s wars,
-married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Hans Sloane; so that
-the present Earl of Cadogan is “Lord of the Manor and Viscount Chelsey.”
-
-But greater than his riches, better than all his other services, is the
-fact that Sir Hans Sloane was the founder of the British Museum.  The
-extraordinary collection in Natural History, of books and of manuscripts,
-with which his house in Bloomsbury was filled, and which then overflowed
-into his Chelsea house, was left by him to the Nation, on the payment to
-his estate of only £20,000; it having cost him not less than £50,000.
-Parliament passed the appropriation, the purchase was perfected, and this
-little pond has now grown into the great ocean of the British Museum; on
-the shores of which, we who come to scoop up our small spoonfuls of
-knowledge are cared for so courteously by its guardians.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-There was an Irish servant of Sir Hans Sloane, one Salter, who
-established himself in 1695 as a barber in a little house in Cheyne Walk
-which stood on the site of the present Nos. 17 and 18: “six doors beyond
-Manor Street,” contemporary papers say, and I have no doubt this is the
-correct site.  Salter was a thin little man, with a hungry look as of one
-fond of philosophy or of fretting; and Vice-Admiral Munden, just home
-from years of service on the Spanish coast, dubbed him, in a freak, Don
-Saltero, a title he carried to his death.  He took in all the papers, and
-had musical instruments lying about—he himself twanged Don-like the
-guitar—that his customers might divert themselves while awaiting their
-turns.  His master had given him a lot of rubbish, for which his own
-house had no more room, as well as duplicates of curiosities of real
-value in the Museum in Bloomsbury.  To these he added others of his own
-invention: the inevitable bit of the Holy Cross, the pillar to which
-Jesus was tied when scourged, a necklace of Job’s tears; and, as the
-little barber rhymed in his advertisements in 1723, just after De Foe had
-set the town talking with his new book—
-
-    “Monsters of all sorts here are seen,
-    Strange things in Nature as they grew so;
-    Some relics of the Sheba Queen,
-    And fragments of the famed Bob Crusoe.”
-
-So that “my eye was diverted by ten thousand gimcracks on the walls and
-ceiling,” as Steele puts it in the _Tatler_, describing a Voyage to
-Chelsea.  For Don Saltero’s museum, barber’s shop, reading-room,
-coffee-house had become quite the vogue, and a favourite lounge for men
-of quality.  Old St. Evremond was probably among the first to be shaved
-here; Richard Cromwell used to come often and sit silently—“a little, and
-very neat old man, with a most placid countenance, the effect of his
-innocent and unambitious life.”  Steele and Addison and their friends
-were frequent visitors “to the Coffee House where the Literati sit in
-council.”  And there came here one day about 1724 or 1725, a young man of
-eighteen or twenty years, out for a holiday from the printing-press at
-which he worked in Bartholomew Close—Benjamin Franklin by name, recently
-arrived from the loyal Colonies of North America, and lodging in Little
-Britain.  He had brought with him to London a purse of asbestos, which
-Sir Hans Sloane, hearing of, bought at a handsome price, and added to his
-museum.  To this museum he gave the young printer an invitation, and
-probably told him about Don Saltero’s.  It was on Franklin’s return from
-there—the party went by river, of course—that he undressed and leapt into
-the water, and, as he wrote in his letters, “swam from near Chelsea the
-whole way to Blackfriars Bridge, exhibiting during the course a variety
-of feats of activity and address, both upon the surface of the water, as
-well as under it.  This sight occasioned much astonishment and pleasure
-to those to whom it was new.”
-
-                         [Picture: Don Saltero’s]
-
-It is a far cry from Dick Steele to Charles Lamb, yet the latter too
-makes mention of the “Don Saltero Tavern” in one of his letters; saying
-that he had had offered to him, by a fellow clerk in the India House, all
-the ornaments of its smoking-room, at the time of the auction-sale, when
-the collection was dispersed.
-
-This was in 1807, and the place was then turned into a tavern; its
-original sign—“Don Saltero’s, 1695,” in gold letters on a green
-board—swinging between beams in front, until the demolition of the old
-house only twenty years ago. {125}
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-A little farther on, just west of Oakley Street, on the outer edge of the
-roadway of Cheyne Walk, stood, until within a few months, another old
-sign, at which I was wont to look in delight, unshamed by the mute
-mockery of the passing Briton, who wondered what the sentimental prowler
-could see to attract him in this rusty relic.  It stood in front of the
-little public-house lately burned to the ground—“The Magpie and Stump:”
-two solid posts carrying a wide cross-piece, all bristling with spikes
-for the impalement of the climbing boy of the period; “MAGPIE AND STUMP,
-QUOIT GROUNDS,” in dingy letters on the outer side, once plain for all
-rowing men to read from the river; above was an iron Magpie on an iron
-Stump, both decrepid with age, and a rusty old weathercock, too stiff to
-turn even the letter _E_—alone left of the four points of the compass.
-Between these posts might still be traced the top stone of an old
-water-staircase, embedded now in the new-made ground which forms the
-embankment garden here; just as you might have seen, only the other day,
-the water-stairs of Whitehall Palace, which have now been carted away.
-Up this staircase Queen Elizabeth has often stepped, on her frequent
-visits to the rich and powerful Earl of Shrewsbury, her devoted subject
-and friend.  For, on the river slope, just back of Cheyne Walk here,
-stood, until the second decade of this century, Shrewsbury House, another
-one of Chelsea’s grand mansions.  It was an irregular brick structure,
-much gabled, built about a quadrangle; although but one storey in height
-it was sufficiently spacious, its great room being one hundred and twenty
-feet in length, wainscotted in finely carved oak, and its oratory painted
-to resemble marble.  In a circular room there was concealed a trap-door,
-giving entrance to a winding stairway, which led to an underground
-passage; believed to have opened on the river wall at low tide, and to
-have twisted inland to the “Black Horse” in Chelsea, and thence to
-Holland House, Kensington.  Local gossip claims that it was used by the
-Jacobites of 1745, and perhaps of 1715, too; for they made their
-rendezvous by the river at this tavern, and here drank to their “King
-over the water.”  In the grounds of the “Magpie and Stump” is a wooden
-trapdoor, through which I once descended by stone steps into a paved
-stone passage, sufficiently wide and high for two to pass, standing
-erect.  This bit is all that remains of the old tunnel—the river portion
-being used as a coal-hole, the inland end soon stopped up and lost in
-neighbouring cellars.
-
-            [Picture: Cheyne Walk, with the Magpie and Stump]
-
-The wife of this Earl of Shrewsbury is well worth our attention for a
-moment, by reason of her beauty, her character, her romantic career, her
-many marriages.  Elizabeth Hardwick of Derby became Mrs. Barley at the
-age of fourteen, and was a wealthy widow when only sixteen; she soon
-married Sir William Cavendish, ancestor of the Duke of Devonshire; to be
-widowed soon again, and soon to become the wife of Sir William St. Loo,
-Captain of Queen Elizabeth’s Guard.  His death left her still so lovely,
-witty, attractive, as to captivate the greatest subject in the land; and
-she became the Countess of Shrewsbury; having risen regularly in riches,
-position, power, with each of her marriages.  After the death of her
-fourth husband she consented to remain a widow.  At her death, seventeen
-years later, she bequeathed this Chelsea mansion to her son William,
-afterward the first Duke of Devonshire; together with the three grandest
-seats in England—Hardwick, Oldcoates, Chatsworth—all builded by her at
-successive stages of her eventful career.
-
-Hard by here we trace the site of another notable mansion—the ancient
-palace of the Bishops of Winchester—which stood a little back from the
-river bank, just where broad Oakley Street runs up from opposite the
-Albert Suspension Bridge.  It was only two storeys high and of humble
-exterior, yet it contained many grand rooms, lavishly decorated.  On the
-wall of one of the chambers, there was found, when the building was torn
-down early in the century, a group of nine life-size figures, admirably
-done in black on the white plaster; believed to have been drawn by
-Hogarth in one of his visits to his friend Bishop Hoadley, here.
-
-A step farther westward along Cheyne Walk and we turn into Lawrence
-Street; at the upper end of which, at the corner of Justice Walk, we
-shall find, in the cellars of “The Prince of Wales” tavern and of the
-adjoining houses, the remains of the ovens and baking-rooms of the famous
-Chelsea China factory.  For it stood just here during the short forty
-years of its existence, having been established in 1745.  Why it failed
-and why the factory was torn down, no one seems to know; for its work was
-extremely fine, and its best ware—turned out from 1750 to 1765—was equal
-to that of Sèvres.  Skilled foreign artizans had been brought over, and
-an extraordinary specimen of unskilled native workman appeared in Dr.
-Samuel Johnson.  The old scholar conceived the idea that he could make
-china as admirably as he could make a dictionary; but he never mastered
-the secret of mixing, and each piece of his cracked in the baking!  He
-used to come out here twice a week, his old housekeeper carrying his
-basket of food for the day; and was made free of the whole factory,
-except the mixing-room.  They presented him with a full service of their
-own make, properly baked, however; which he gave or bequeathed to Mrs.
-Piozzo, and which, at the sale of her effects, was bought by Lord
-Holland.  In “Holland House by Kensington”—to use its good old title—I
-have seen it, carefully preserved among the other famed _curios_.
-
-                       [Picture: A Chelsea corner]
-
-“This is Danvers Street, begun in ye Yeare 1696,” says the quaint old
-lettering in a corner house of Cheyne Walk; and this street marks the
-site of Danvers House, which had formed part of More’s property—perhaps
-the “new buildinge”—and which had gone to his son-in-law, Roper.  It came
-afterward to be owned by Sir John Danvers, a gentleman-usher of Charles
-I., and he made a superb place of it; of which the deep foundations and
-the fallen columns now lie under Paultons Square, at the upper end of the
-street.  Sir John Danvers was the second husband of Magdalen Herbert, a
-woman notable for her famous family of boys: her first son was that
-strong and strange original, Lord Herbert of Cherbury; her fifth son was
-George Herbert, of undying memory.  The poet lived here for a while.
-Donne, the preacher, then at Oxford, used to stop at her house on his
-visits to London; and when he became Vicar of St. Dunstan’s-in-the-West,
-in the Strand, near Isaac Walton’s old shop in Chancery Lane, and had
-converted the Gentle Angler, these two certainly strolled often out here
-together.  Donne preached Lady Danvers’ funeral sermon in Old Chelsea
-Church in 1627; notable as one of his most touching discourses.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-In the embankment gardens we have passed a statue recently placed there;
-a man seated in a chair, uncouth of figure, with bent brow and rugged
-face.  And in the wall of the corner house behind we stop to look at a
-small memorial tablet, still more recently placed; a medallion portrait
-of the same face, and beneath, this inscription: “Thomas Carlyle lived at
-24, Cheyne Row, 1834–81.”  For this is not the house in which he lived,
-and the tablet was fixed on this one with queer common sense, his own
-being in Chancery at that time!  It is to be found farther up in this
-little dull street running from Cheyne Walk just here; in which there is
-nothing that is not commonplace, save the little cottage covered with
-vines, in the wall above which is a stone with odd old-fashioned
-lettering—“This is Gt. Cheyne Row, 1708.”  About the middle of the row of
-small dreary brick houses, the one once numbered 5, now 24, is that in
-which he dwelt for nearly fifty years, and wherein he wrote his
-commination service large on all mankind; talking more eloquently, and
-more loquaciously withal, in praise of silence, than any man who ever
-scolded all through life that he might do honour to the strong arm and
-the still tongue!
-
-              [Picture: Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm]
-
-The look-out across the narrow street from his front windows—“mainly into
-trees,” he wrote to Sir William Hamilton, on moving here—shows now
-nothing but a long, low, depressing wall, above which rises a
-many-windowed model dwelling-house; and it is surely one of the least
-inspiring prospects in all London: while from the back he could see
-nothing of interest except the westernmost end of the old wall of Henry
-VIII.’s Manor House garden, which still stands here.  It gave him a hint
-in his pamphlet, “Shooting Niagara;” wherein, sneering at modern bricks
-and bricklayers, he says: “Bricks, burn them rightly, build them
-faithfully with mortar faithfully tempered, _they_ will stand. . . .  We
-have them here at the head of this garden, which are in their third or
-fourth century.”
-
-Long before his day, there had lived, almost on this same spot, another
-“Hermit of Chelsea,” in the person of Dr. Tobias Smollett; who came here
-to live in retirement in 1750, fresh from the fame of his “Roderick
-Random;” seeking such seclusion partly on account of his daughter’s
-health and his own, and partly for the sake of his work.  Here he wrote
-“Ferdinand Count Fathom,” finished Hume’s “History of England,” and began
-his translation of “Don Quixote;” and here took place those Sunday
-dinners, the delicious description of which, and of the guests, he has
-put into the mouth of young Jerry Melford, in “Humphrey Clinker.”  Here
-were spent some of his happiest days, with his work and with his friends
-from town; Johnson, Garrick, Sterne, John Wilkes, John Hunter: the latter
-probably coming from Earl’s Court, Kensington, where his place—mansion,
-museum, and menagerie in one—stood till very lately.  Smollett was as
-well known in the streets of Chelsea, in his day, as Carlyle in ours—“a
-good-sized, strongly-made man, graceful, dignified, and pleasant.”
-
-               [Picture: Carlyle’s house, Great Cheyne Row]
-
-It was a fine old place, with extensive grounds, which Smollett took;
-being the ancient Manor House of the Lawrences, once owned by Henry
-VIII., as we have seen.  The house stood exactly on the site of this
-block of two-storied brick cottages called “Little Cheyne Row,” between
-Great Cheyne Row and Lawrence Street.  Its early history has little that
-need detain us, until, in 1714, it came to be called Monmouth House, from
-its new owner, the Duchess of Monmouth and Buccleuch; who came here with
-John Gay as her domestic steward or secretary, and who here lived to the
-age of ninety.  She had been an ornament of Charles II.’s court, a real
-jewel amidst all the pinchbeck and paste of his setting.  She was the
-widow of his son, the hapless Duke of Monmouth; “who began life with no
-legal right to his being, and ended it by forfeiting all similar right to
-his head.”  It is to this gracious and gentle _chatelaine_ that Sir
-Walter Scott sings his “Lay of the Last Minstrel”:
-
-    “For she had known adversity,
-    Though born in such a high degree;
-    In pride of power, in beauty’s bloom,
-    Had wept o’er Monmouth’s bloody tomb.”
-
-Smollett left the place for ever, in 1769, and a little later, went to
-die in Spain; a brave, silent, sad man, for all the fun in his books, and
-already broken in health by the untimely death of his daughter.  The
-Chelsea historian, Faulkner, writing in 1829, says that Monmouth House
-was then “a melancholy scene of desolation and ruin.”  It was finally
-torn down and carted away in 1834.
-
-                      [Picture: The Chelsea Rectory]
-
-The grounds of Monmouth House—now built over by a great
-board-school—stretched back to those of the Rectory of St. Luke’s, a step
-to the northward.  The Rectory is an irregular brick building, delightful
-to the eye, set in an old-fashioned lawn with great trees; its
-tranquillity assured by a high brick wall.  It is a very old house, was
-built by the Marquis of Winchester, and granted by him to the parish on
-May 6th, 1566, at the request of Queen Elizabeth.  Glebe Place, just at
-hand, shows the site of the glebe land given in her time, in exchange for
-the older parsonage, which stood still farther west, behind Millman’s
-Row, now Millman’s Street.
-
-The historic interest of this Chelsea Rectory, however, is dwarfed by its
-personal appeal to all of us, for that it was the home of three notable
-boys; named, in the order of their ages, Charles, George, and Henry
-Kingsley.  They came here in the year 1836; their father, the Rev.
-Charles Kingsley, having received the living of St. Luke’s, Chelsea, from
-Lord Cadogan.  So their beloved west-country life was exchanged for the
-prim, parochial prosiness, which made such a doleful difference to them
-all.  For these boys were born, it seems to me, with the instant love of
-life and movement in their blood.  Charles has shown it in almost
-everything he wrote; Henry gave utterance to it in his books only in a
-less degree, because it found vent in his years of wandering; while
-George—better known as “The Doctor”—appears for a little while at
-spasmodic intervals at his home on Highgate Hill, then plunges into space
-again, and is vaguely heard of, now yachting in the South Seas, now
-chatting delightfully in a Colorado mining-camp.  Henry, the youngest,
-was a sensitive, shy lad, delicate in health; and the old dames in this
-neighbourhood tell of his quiet manner and modest bearing.  Many of the
-poor old women about here have a vivid remembrance of “the boys,” and
-speak of the whole family with respect and affection.  Henry was born in
-1830, studied at King’s College, London, for a little over two years,
-1844–6; his name was entered at Worcester College, Oxford, March 6th,
-1850; where he kept ten terms, leaving at Easter, 1853, without taking
-his degree.  The Australian “gold-digging fever” was then raging, and he
-started for that country with two friends.  There he did all sorts of
-things: tried mining, tried herding, became a stockman, was in the
-mounted police; and after about five years of these varied vocations,
-returned to England with no gold in his pockets.  It was all in his
-brain; a precious possession of experience of life and of men, to be
-coined into the characters and the scenes which have passed current all
-over the globe.  All his Australian stories are admirable, and “Geoffrey
-Hamlyn”—his first work, produced soon after his return, in 1859—is the
-best tale of colonial life ever written.  His parents had intended that
-he should take holy orders, hoping perhaps that he should succeed his
-father in the living of old St. Luke’s; but he felt himself utterly
-unfitted for this profession, as he also, although with less reason,
-believed himself unfitted for that of the journalist.  This latter he
-tried for a while when he came back to England; and indeed, as a
-correspondent he displayed dash enough, and after the surrender of Sedan,
-was the first man to enter within the French lines.  He found at length
-his proper place as an essayist and a novelist.  In all his works, there
-is to me a strange and nameless charm—a quaint humour, a genuine
-sentiment, an atmosphere all his own, breezy, buoyant, boyish; seeming to
-show a personality behind all his creations—that of their creator—a fair,
-frank, fresh-hearted man.  He had true artistic talent in another
-direction, too, inherited from his grandfather; and he may have been just
-in judging himself capable of gaining far greater reputation as a painter
-than as a novelist, even.  His skill in drawing was amazing, and the few
-water-colours and oils left to his family—and unknown outside of its
-members—are masterpieces.  On his return from Australia, he lived for a
-while with his mother at “The Cottage,” at Eversleigh; never caring for
-Chelsea after the death of his father.  He was married in 1864 by Charles
-Kingsley and Gerald Blunt, the present Rector of Chelsea.  On May 24th,
-1876, “on the vigil of the Ascension,” only forty-six years of age, he
-died at Cuckfield, Sussex, which quiet retreat he had chosen twelve
-months before.
-
-Henry Kingsley especially appeals to us, just here, for that he has given
-us, in “The Hillyars and Burtons,” so vivid a picture of modern
-Chelsea—its streets and by-ways, its old houses and its venerable church,
-in delightful detail, as he saw them when a boy.  The Hillyar family is a
-romantic reproduction of that ancient Chelsea family, the Lawrences; in
-“The Burtons” he gives us his reminiscence of the Wyatt household, living
-at Wargrave, Henley-on-Thames.  The brave girl, Emma Burton, is a
-portrait of Emma Wyatt.  The old home of the Burtons—“the very large
-house which stood by itself, as it were, fronting the buildings opposite
-our forge; which contained twenty-five rooms, some of them very large,
-and which was called by us, indifferently, Church Place, or Queen
-Elizabeth’s Place”—_this_ was the only one of the grand mansions just
-here in Chelsea left standing when the Kingsleys came here.  “It had been
-in reality the palace of the young Earl of Essex; a very large
-three-storied house of old brick, with stone-mullioned windows and
-doorways.”  You may see a print of it in “kind old Mr. Faulkner’s” book,
-as he found it in 1830, dilapidated then, and let out to many tenants.
-Later, it sunk lower still; and finally the grand old fabric—“which had
-been trodden often enough by the statesmen and dandies of Queen
-Elizabeth’s court, and most certainly by that mighty woman herself”—was
-demolished between 1840–42.  The boy of ten or twelve then, Henry
-Kingsley, must have had the same feelings of wonder and regret, which he
-puts into the speech of Jim Burton, as he looked on this historic pile,
-roofless, dis-windowed, pickaxed to pieces.  He is not quite correct in
-letting Jim Burton fix its site on the south side of Paultons Square; it
-stood between that square and Church Street, exactly where now stands a
-block of poor little one-storied houses, “Paulton Terrace, 1843,” painted
-on its pediment; and at the back, built in with some still more wretched
-little dwellings, you shall still see part of the palace wall of Thomas
-Cromwell, Earl of Essex, the son of the Putney blacksmith.
-
-From this ancient site I often walk, in company with the Burton brothers,
-Joe and Jim, their sister Emma and Erne Hillyar behind, down old Church
-Lane, now Church Street, haunted by historic shades, to where, at its
-foot, stands “Chelsea Old Church.”
-
-“Four hundred years of memory are crowded into that dark old church, and
-the great flood of change beats round the walls, and shakes the door in
-vain, but never enters.  The dead stand thick together there, as if to
-make a brave resistance to the moving world outside, which jars upon
-their slumber.  It is a church of the dead.  I cannot fancy any one being
-married in that church—its air would chill the boldest bride that ever
-walked to the altar.”  So Joe Burton well says, sitting in his “old
-place”—the bench which stood in front of Sir Thomas More’s monument,
-close to the altar-rails.  But for all that, it is not a depressing but
-rather a delightful old church, if you sit here of a summer afternoon;
-the sun streaming in from the south-west, slanting on the stone effigies,
-and the breeze breathing in through the little door beside More’s
-monument, shaking the grass outside, and the noble river sparkling beyond
-the embankment garden.  To me it has more of fascination than any church
-in London.  Its entire absence of architectural effect in its varying
-styles; its retention to this day of the simplicity of the village
-church, even as when built; its many monuments and mural tablets, each
-one a page of English history; its family escutcheons; its tattered
-battle flags hung above; the living memories that are built in with every
-dead stone: all these combine to make it the quaintest, the most
-impressive, the most lovable of churches.  Dean Stanley was fond of
-calling it one of the Chapters of his Abbey.  This is not the place for a
-description of the monuments, nor for details of their inscriptions;
-which make us think, as they did the boy Jim Burton, that these buried
-here “were the best people who ever lived.”  Only the tenant of one plain
-stone coffin is modest in his simple request cut thereon: “Of your
-Charitie pray for the soul of Edmund Bray, Knight.”  As for most of the
-others, I quite agree with Jim, that the Latin, in which their long
-epitaphs are written, was the only language appropriate; the English
-tongue being “utterly unfit to express the various virtues of these
-wonderful Chelsea people;” among whom, it strikes me, too, that “Sir
-Thomas More was the most obstinately determined that posterity should
-hear his own account of himself.”  His black marble slab, set deep under
-a plain grey Gothic arch, is placed on the chancel wall, just where he
-used to stand in his “surplisse;” above it is his punning crest, a Moor’s
-head on a shield; and on it is cut his own long Latin inscription, sent
-by him to his friend Erasmus, who thought it worth printing in his
-collection of “Tracts and Letters” (Antwerp, 1534).  Twice have the
-characters been recut; and each time has care been taken, for his
-memory’s sake, to leave blank the last word of the line, which describes
-him as “troublesome to thieves, murderers and _heretics_.”  To the sturdy
-old Catholic these were all equal—all criminals to be put out of the way.
-The irony of chance has placed, on the wall close beside his tomb, a
-tablet which keeps alive the name of one of the Tyndale family, a
-descendant of that one whose books More burnt, and whose body he would
-probably have liked to burn, also!  More’s two wives are buried here, as
-well as others of his family; but whether his body lies here, or in a
-Tower grave, no one knows.
-
-                [Picture: A Corner in Chelsea Old Church]
-
-Three of Chelsea’s grandest ladies lie under monuments in the church.
-Lady Dacre, with her husband Gregory—“their dogs at their feet”—rests
-under a Gothic canopy, richly wrought with flowers; tomb and canopy all
-of superb white marble.  Its sumptuousness is all the more striking in
-that it contrasts so strongly with the simplicity ordered by her dying
-injunctions, as she wrote them on December 20, 1594, when decreeing the
-establishment of her almshouses—venerable cottages still standing in
-Tothill Street, Westminster, not far from the little street named for
-her.  In her will she says: “And I earnestly desire that I may be buried
-in one tombe with my lord at Chelsey, without all earthlie pompe, but
-with some privat freindes, and nott to be ripped, and towling for me, but
-no ringing, after service ys done.”
-
-Opposite where she lies, reposes in white marble of the size of life,
-under a pillared arch on a black marble pedestal, another noted Chelsea
-dame, Lady Jane Cheyne; and on the marble her worthy husband Charles,
-transformed here into Carolus, records in sounding Latin the good she did
-in her life.  Notably did she benefit this church, towards the
-re-building of which she gave largely.
-
-The great Duchess of Northumberland—mother of Elizabeth’s Leicester,
-grandmother of Sir Philip Sidney—was laid to rest under a magnificent
-tomb; of which there now is left, to keep alive her memory, here against
-the wall, only a slab beneath a noble arch, and faded gilt escutcheons
-beautifully wrought.
-
-And now, glancing about at the monumental marble and brass of these
-soldiers, statesmen, citizens, simple and stately, we are ready to agree
-with straight-thinking Jim Burton: “But, on the whole, give me the
-Hillyars, kneeling humbly, with nothing to say for themselves.”  It is
-the Lawrence family, as I have explained, who are called “The Hillyars”
-by Henry Kingsley; and his preference—a memory, no doubt, of the Sunday
-visits of his boyhood to the rector’s pew, which directly faces these
-tombs—refers to that quaint monument in the Lawrence chapel; where, under
-a little arch, supported by columns, kneel wife and husband face to face,
-he in his armour, his three simple-seeming sons in ruffs kneeling behind
-him; she in her heavy stiff dress, her six daughters on their knees
-behind in a dutiful row, decreasing in size to the two dead while yet
-babies on the cushion before her.  Says Jim: “I gave them names in my own
-head.  I loved two of them.  On the female side I loved the little wee
-child, for whom there was very small room, and who was crowded against
-the pillar, kneeling on the skirts of the last of her big sisters.  And I
-loved the big lad, who knelt directly behind his father; between the
-Knight himself and the two little brothers, dressed so very like
-blue-coat boys, such quaint little fellows as they were.”
-
-In this Lawrence chapel we see a strange survival of a common custom of
-the pre-Reformation times; when a great family was wont to build and own
-its private chapel in the parish church; using it for worship during
-life, for burial in death, and deeding or bequeathing it, as they did any
-other real estate.  When Sir Thomas Lawrence became Lord of the Manor, he
-partly bought, and partly built, this chapel; and now, although it forms
-the entire east end of the north aisle, it has not been modernized like
-the rest of the church, but retains its high-backed pews and other
-ancient peculiarities unchanged since the church was repaired in 1667;
-for it is still private property, belonging to the family to whom it has
-descended from the Lawrences, and to them goes the income derived from
-its pews.
-
-Before going out through the main door we stop to look at the wooden rack
-to which the old books are chained, and underneath, at the little
-mahogany shelf, for convenience in reading them: these bring back to us
-the monkish days.  Here is the Bible, kept since that time when it was so
-costly a volume; here the Prayer-book, the Church Homilies, Foxe’s
-Martyrology: this latter then nearly as sacred as the Scriptures.  In the
-porch now stands the bell which hung for nearly two hundred years in the
-tower, given to the church by “the Honourable William Ashburnham,
-Esquire, Cofferer to His Majesty’s Household, 1679;” so its lettering
-tells us.
-
-Going, one foggy night of that winter, perhaps from that Ashburnham House
-of which we have seen the site, he lost his way, slipped, and fell into
-the river; and would have been lost, good swimmer though he was, unable
-to see the shore, but that he heard this church clock strike nine, and so
-guided, swam safely toward it.  He gave to the church, just then being
-rebuilt with Lady Cheyne’s funds, this bell, with a sum sufficient to
-have it rung for five minutes every night at nine.  So was done for many
-years—the ringer receiving “a penny each night and a penny for his
-candle”—until about half a century ago the fund vanished, somehow,
-somewhere; and this bell has never been rung since!
-
-Outside, the tiny graveyard is crowded with slabs and monuments, many of
-them ugly, some curious, a few fine: from the stately stone tomb of Sir
-Hans Sloane and his wife—a marble urn entwisted with Æsculapian serpents,
-under a marble canopy—to the simple slab, worn with wind and weather, of
-Dr. Chamberlayne and his family; of whom the daughter, Anne, more famous
-than any of the others, “long declining wedlock, and aspiring above her
-sex and age, fought under her brother with arms and manly attire, in a
-fire-ship against the French, on the 30th June, 1690: a maiden heroine!”
-This “Casta Virago” was then but twenty-three, and did not grow in
-courage with her years; for she soon after consented to marry one John
-Spraggs, and then died!  Here and there, amid unknown graves, we may find
-those of Magdalen Herbert; Mrs. Fletcher, wife of the Bishop of London,
-mother of the Fletcher of the famous firm “Beaumont and Fletcher”;
-Shadwell, the poet-laureate; Woodfall, the publisher of “Junius”; Sir
-John Fielding, the blind magistrate of Bow Street, half-brother of the
-novelist.
-
-Amid these English names is written the name of an historic Frenchman;
-and his historic grave is hid somewhere in a corner of this churchyard,
-past finding out. {160}  The church record reads: “Burial—A.D. 1740, May
-18, Brigadier John Cavallier”; and this dry detail of the interment of
-“only an old officer, who had always behaved very bravely,” is all that
-is told there of Jean Antoine Cavallier, the Camissard, the leader of the
-French Huguenots in their long, fierce fight against the cruel and
-lawless enforcement of Louis XIV.’s Revocation of the Edict of Nantes;
-refusing to be apostatized, expatriated, or exterminated.  They became
-the Covenanters of France, and Cavallier—a baker’s apprentice, with a
-genuine genius for war, the soul of the strife, elected their leader
-before he was twenty—was their Black Douglas: one even more furious and
-more ferocious.  After fire and slaughter and pillage for two years;
-affronting the daylight, blazing up the night; amazing the whole world
-and horrifying their enemies; banded like bandits in the hills of Le Puy,
-singly like guerillas along the range of the Cevennes; praying,
-prophesying, slaying:—they were in the end circled about by the Grand
-Monarque’s soldiery under Villars, shut out from Dutch and English aid,
-from escape by sea, forced to capitulate.  Cavallier was let go to
-Jersey, was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of the island, and finally
-closed his stormy career peacefully in London.  Here he lies, in an
-unknown grave, in this alien soil; and the Cévenols, up in their hills,
-still talk of him and of his war two hundred years ago, to-day as if it
-were yesterday.
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-As we stand here, the broad embankment, with its dainty gardens,
-stretches between us and the river; spanned just above by old Battersea
-Bridge, the only wooden bridge left to the Thames, since that of Putney
-has gone.  For centuries there had been a ferry just here, granted by
-James I. to some of his “dear relations” for £40.  In 1771 this bridge
-was built for foot-passengers only, was enlarged later, and is soon to be
-pulled down; its rude and reverend timbers are already propped up here
-and there.  Stand midway on it with me, while the ceaseless stream of men
-flows by, caring nothing for that at which you and I are looking.
-
-On our right, along the southern shore, stretches Battersea Park, fringed
-with its great masses of cool foliage; where not long ago were marshes
-and meadows, and the barren, bleak, Battersea Fields.  In those fields
-was fought the famous duel in 1829, between the Duke of Wellington and
-Lord Winchelsea.  And long before that, in the reeds along that shore was
-hid Colonel Blood, intending to shoot Charles II. while bathing, as was
-the King’s custom, “in the Thames over against Chelsey; but his arm was
-checked by an awe of Majesty.”  So, at least, Blood had the impudence to
-narrate, when on his trial for his audacious and almost successful
-attempt to steal the royal regalia from the Tower in May, 1671.  Whether
-the King was touched by the narrative, or whether, as has been hinted,
-his impecunious Majesty was implicated in the plot to rob the crown; it
-is certain that he pardoned the daring adventurer, and gave him a yearly
-pension of £500.
-
-   [Picture: Old Battersea Church, where Blake was married, showing the
-                    window from which Turner sketched]
-
-Beyond the Bridge, back of us, rises the square, squat tower of St.
-Mary’s, Battersea, builded in the worst churchwarden style; and otherwise
-only notable for that therein was married Blake the madman; that there
-Turner loved to sit at the vestry window and sketch; and that there lie
-the remains and stand the magnificent monument of St. John Bolingbroke,
-and of his second wife, niece of Madame de Maintenon: both their epitaphs
-written by him.  Not far from the church, on the river bank next to the
-mill, still stands one wing of the great seventy-roomed Bolingbroke
-House; in which St. John was born, to which he returned from his stormy
-exile, there to pass his remaining days in study, and there to die.
-Through its many old-time chambers with the famous “sprawling Verrio’s”
-ceiling paintings, I will lead you into the historic cedar-room, on the
-river front—Bolingbroke’s favourite retreat, whose four walls, panelled
-with cedar from floor to ceiling, are still as redolent as when
-Pope—Bolingbroke’s guest—began in it his “Essay on Man,” inspired thereto
-by his host; whose wit, scholarship, philosophy had, during his exile,
-inspired also Voltaire and made him own his master.  Here in this room
-were wont to meet Bolingbroke and Pope, Chesterfield and Swift—that
-brilliant quartette who hated, plotted against, and attacked Walpole.
-His house—Sir Robert’s—forms part of the great mass of Chelsea Hospital,
-dim in the distance before us; between, stretches the old Dutch front of
-Cheyne Walk, near at hand resolving itself into most ancient houses, with
-quaint windows in their sloping roofs; their red tiles and
-chocolate-brown bricks showing dark behind the green of the old
-lime-trees.  The setting sun lingers lovingly on the square church tower,
-venerable with the mellow tints of time; and presently the moon comes up,
-washing out all these tints, except that of the white wall-tablets; and
-from out the grey mass shines the clock-face, even now striking nine, as
-it did for the “Hon. William,” just then soused in the river, more than
-two hundred years ago.  Farther beyond the bridge are two buildings,
-which also bring the old and the new close together; the “World’s End
-Tavern,” at the end of the passage of that name, famous three centuries
-ago as a rendezvous for improper pleasure parties, and introduced in
-Congreve’s “Love for Love,” in that connection.  Just west of the sedate
-little “public,” “The Aquatic Stores,” are two tiny houses set back from
-the embankment; stone steps lead down to their minute front gardens;
-vines clamber up the front of the westernmost house to an iron balcony on
-its roof.  That balcony was put there for his own convenience by Joseph
-Mallord William Turner, the painter; in that house, No. 119, Cheyne Walk,
-he lived for many years, and in that front room he died, on the 18th
-December, 1851.  To that upper window, no longer able to paint, too
-feeble to walk, he was wheeled every morning during his last days that he
-might lose no light of the winter sun on his beloved Thames.  In
-Battersea Church you may sit in the little vestry window wherein he was
-wont to sketch.  The story of his escape from his grand and gloomy
-mansion in Queen Anne Street, is well known; he never returned to it, but
-made his home here with the burly Mrs. Booth.  After long hunting, his
-aged housekeeper, in company with another decrepid dame, found him in
-hiding, only the day before his death.  The barber’s son of Maiden Lane
-lies in the great cathedral of St. Paul’s, and the evil that he did is
-buried with him—his eccentricity, his madness if you will—but he lives
-for all time, as the greatest landscape painter England has known.
-
-                [Picture: The Western End of Cheyne Walk]
-
-The long summer afternoon is waning, and the western sky, flaming with
-fading fires, floods broad Chelsea Reach with waves of dusky gold.  The
-evening mist rises slowly, as yet hiding nothing, but transforming even
-commonplace objects in a weird unwonted way.  Those pretentious blocks of
-new mansions loom almost lordly now; that distant railway bridge is only
-a ghost of graceful glimmering arches; money-making factory chimneys and
-commercial wharves pretend to picturesque possibilities; clumpish barges,
-sprawling on the mud, are no longer ugly; and a broad-bottomed coasting
-schooner, unloading stone at a dock, is just what we would choose to see
-there.  And here at the end of this bridge is a fragment of “real old
-Chelsea,” left intact for our delectation—a cluster of drooping trees on
-the bank, an unaccountable boat-house, stone steps leading down to the
-bit of beach, whereon are skiffs drawn up, and cordage lying about, and
-sail-wrapped spars.  Out on the placid Reach there is but little
-movement; the river steamboats are anchored in a dark mass near the
-shore, and the last belated one edges up to its mooring beside them for
-the night; a burly barge drifts slowly by under its dusky brown sails, or
-a “dumb-barge” floats with the tide, its crew of one man busied with his
-long sculls and his not-dumb blasphemy; a puffing tug with a red light in
-its nose drags tortuously a long line of tarpaulin-covered canal boats.
-As each of these moving objects breaks the burnished waves into bits of
-golden gloom, the whole still surface of the stream becomes alive for us
-with a fairy flotilla, born of the brain, yet real enough to our vision.
-There float ancient barges, six and eight-oared, gorgeous with gilding or
-severely simple; those of brilliant noblemen, of the City guilds, of
-Royalty itself.  We seem to see Henry VIII. rowing up, on a visit to
-More; Elizabeth coming to call on Lord Charles Howard of Effingham, him
-who scattered the “Spanyard’s Invinsable Navye” for her; the first
-Charles, impatient to dote on his “dear Steenie.”  Even the commonest of
-these curious craft is freighted, for our fancy, with a nameless cargo,
-not on its bills of lading.  So do we gaze across the river of Time that
-flows between us and the group of famous men and historic women, moving
-in the twilight of the past on Chelsea’s shore.  And we ask, with Marcus
-Piso, friend of the younger Cicero: “Is it by some mutual instinct, or
-through some delusion, that when we see the very spots where famous men
-have lived, we are far more touched than when we hear of the things that
-they have done, or read something that they have written?  It is thus
-that I am affected at this moment.”
-
-                 [Picture: Turner’s last dwelling-place]
-
-Here walks Sir Thomas More with his wife and daughters; here George
-Herbert muses “with a far look in his immortal eyes;” here come Donne and
-Isaac Walton to visit his mother, Magdalen Herbert.  Swift strolls here,
-alone as he likes best; he has been looking at the hay-makers, just
-inshore above, in the hot summer day, and is about to bathe in the
-river—the “more than Oriental scrupulosity” of his bodily care
-contrasting so keenly with his fondness for moral filth.  Here come his
-friend Atterbury, the learned theologian, from his great garden in Church
-Lane; and Dr. Arbuthnott, Queen Anne’s famous physician; and another
-noted doctor, Sir John Shadwell, father of the poet laureate.  Locke
-leaves the summer-house in the Earl of Shaftesbury’s garden, just above
-where now is St. George’s Workhouse: he has just begun his great essay,
-while living here as tutor for the son.  Pym, Charles’ enemy, who lives
-on the waterside, stops to look at learned Sir Joseph Banks, who, after a
-stormy voyage around the world with Captain Cook, now tranquilly sits
-fishing here; Samuel Johnson strides buoyantly by to his china-making or
-plods pensively back, downcast with his failure; Hans Sloane walks
-arm-in-arm with his friend Sir Isaac Newton, who has come out here from
-his house in Leicester Square; behind them saunter Addison and Dick
-Steele, and a more queerly-consorted couple, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas
-Carlyle.  St. Evremonde goes with one strangely resembling him
-superficially—Leigh Hunt, who lived at the present No. 10, Upper Cheyne
-Row; and who, “with his delicate, worn, but keenly intellectual face, his
-large luminous eyes, his thick shock of wiry grey hair, and little cape
-of faded black silk over his shoulders, looks like an old French abbé.”
-Shelley is near them, having come a long way from his lodgings in Hans
-Place; where he has for a neighbour a certain Joseph Balsamo, calling
-himself the Count Cagliostro, living in Sloane Street.  The Dandy D’Orsay
-cautiously threads his way, for he is in hiding from his creditors.
-Turner passes, gazing on his river; and Maclise, who lives here on the
-bank and dies here too, painting the Thames.  Dante Gabriel Rossetti and
-his near neighbour George Eliot go by; and, last of all, Henry Kingsley
-with the boy Joe Burton, whom he loves, and whom we love, too.
-
-The puffing tug shrieks, and puts to flight these vagrant fancies of an
-American, sentimentalizing in Chelsea; and so ends his stroll, his
-returning footsteps echoing the words of Goethe, and reminding him that,
-after all, “You find in Rome only what you take there.”
-
-        [Picture: Battersea bridge and Church from Turner’s house]
-
-                                 THE END.
-
-
-
-
-INDEX.
-
-
-ABBEY, Westminster, 33, 152
-
-“Absalom and Achitophel,” 50
-
-Addison, Joseph, 23, 63, 65, 66, 80, 94, 122, 178
-
-Albert Suspension Bridge, 131
-
-“Alcyon,” 63
-
-Alma, Battle of the, 73
-
-Almshouses, Lady Dacre’s, 155
-
-Anne, Queen, 105, 119, 177
-
-Apsley House, 13
-
-Aquatic Shores, 169
-
-Arbuthnot, Dr., 177
-
-Armada, 53, 174
-
-Armida, 91
-
-Aschyly, Katherine, 116
-
-Ashburnham, Hon. Wm., 158, 166
-
-„ House, 63, 158
-
-Ashe, Miss, 79
-
-Aspasia, 93
-
-Astell, Mary, 93
-
-Atterbury, 177
-
-Aubrey, John, 38
-
-Augustine, 47
-
-Australia, 147, 148
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-BADAJOS, 73
-
-Balaclava, 73
-
-Balsamo, Joseph, 178
-
-Banks, Sir Joseph, 177
-
-Barbican, 78
-
-Barley, Mrs., 130
-
-Bartholomew Close, 122
-
-Basle, 48
-
-Bastille, 93
-
-Battersea Bridge, 31, 57, 161, 165
-
-,, Church, 165, 169
-
-,, Fields, 33, 162
-
-„ Park, 76, 162
-
-Beaufort, Duke of, 52
-
-,, House, 52, 58
-
-„ Stairs, 20
-
-,, Street, 37, 57
-
-Beaumont, Francis, 93
-
-„ and Fletcher, 159
-
-Becke, Mrs. Betty, 81
-
-“Beggar’s Opera,” The, 85
-
-Belgravia, 20
-
-Bishop’s Stairs, 20
-
-“Black House,” The, 129
-
-Blackfriars Bridge, 125
-
-Blacklands, 17, 96
-
-Blake, 165
-
-Blenheim, 83
-
-Blessington, Lady, 14
-
-Blood, Colonel, 162
-
-Bloody Bridge, 23
-
-Bloomfield, Robert, 80
-
-Bloomsbury, 120, 121
-
-Blunt, Rev. Gerald, 148
-
-Boleyn, Anne, 42, 116
-
-Bolingbroke House, 165
-
-,, St. John, 84, 85, 165, 166
-
-Booth, Mrs., 170
-
-Botanic Gardens, 101, 119
-
-Bow Street, 160
-
-Bowack, 37, 53
-
-Braganza, Catherine of, 111
-
-Bramah, 58
-
-Bray, Edmund, Knight, 152
-
-Bristol, Earl of, 51
-
-Britons, 33
-
-Brown, Ford Madox, 109
-
-Browne, Lady, 116
-
-Brunel, 58
-
-Brussels, 47
-
-Buckingham, 1st Duke of, 50
-
-,, 2nd „ 50, 51, 98
-
-,, Palace, 23
-
-Bucklersbury, 34
-
-Bulwer, Lady, 32
-
-Bun House, The, 97
-
-Burleigh, Lord, 32, 50
-
-Burlington, Earl of, 52
-
-Burney, Dr., 80
-
-„ Fanny, 80
-
-Burton, Emma, 149, 151
-
-,, “Jim,” 150, 151, 152, 156
-
-„ “Joe,” 151, 178
-
-Butterfly Alley, 28
-
-Byron, Lord, 31
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-CADOGAN, Doctor, 63
-
-,, Earl of, 119, 146
-
-„ Place, 96
-
-Cæsar, 33
-
-Cagliostro, Count, 178
-
-Camden House, 57
-
-Camera Square, 28
-
-Camissards, The, 160
-
-Canterbury, 45
-
-Carberry, Earl of, 98
-
-Carlyle, Thomas, 137, 141, 178
-
-Caroline, Queen, 84, 119
-
-Carolina, North, 61
-
-Catherine of Braganza, 111
-
-Cavallier, Jean Antoine, 160, 161
-
-Cavendish, Sir Wm., 130
-
-Cecil, Lord Robert, 50
-
-Cedars of Lebanon, 101
-
-Cevennes, 161
-
-Cévenols, 161
-
-Chamberlayne, Anne, 159
-
-Chamberlayne, Doctor, 159
-
-Chancery Lane, 134
-
-Charles I., 50, 134, 174, 177
-
-„ II., 23, 64, 70, 75, 81, 86, 88, 91, 93, 111, 112, 142, 162
-
-Charlotte, Queen, 97
-
-Charterhouse, The, 46
-
-Chatsworth, 131
-
-Chaucer, Geoffrey, 93
-
-Chelsea, “direct connection with London,” 13; “Village of Palaces,” 17;
-“A quiet country village,” 18; ancient aspect, 19–23; causes of its early
-settlement, 20; earliest history, 33; etymology of name, 33; present
-appearance, 24–31; mentioned, 13, 14, 17, 18, 20, 23, 24, 27, 28, 31–34,
-42, 46, 57, 61, 63, 67, 70, 80, 81, 85, 89, 102, 113, 119, 120, 122, 125,
-126, 129, 130, 131, 141, 142, 146, 148, 149, 153, 154, 173, 174, 179
-
-Chelsea Barracks, 28, 96
-
-„ Bun House, 97
-
-„ China Factory, 132
-
-,, Church, Old, 24, 44, 53, 113, 134, 151
-
-„ „ St. Luke’s, 145, 146
-
-„ Farm, 62
-
-„ Hermit of, 138
-
-,, Historian of, 89, 142, 150
-
-„ Hospital, 23, 28, 67, 81, 82, 95, 166
-
-,, Little, 53, 57
-
-,, Manor House, 106, 113, 116, 118, 119, 138
-
-„ Pensioner, 89
-
-„ “Physick Garden,” 101
-
-„ Reach, 31, 170, 173
-
-,, Rectory, 145
-
-„ Suspension Bridge, 76
-
-Chelsey, 19, 33, 34, 44, 50, 51, 69, 105, 155, 162
-
-„ Colledge, 70, 81
-
-„ Viscount, 120
-
-Cheltenham Terrace, 95
-
-Cherbury, Lord Herbert of, 134
-
-Chesterfield, Lord, 78, 166
-
-Cheyne, Lady Jane, 118, 155, 158
-
-„ Lord, 96, 101, 118
-
-„ Row, Great, 20, 137
-
-„ ,, Little, 141
-
-,, ,, Upper, 178
-
-„ Walk, 28, 32, 57, 106, 114, 120, 126, 129, 132, 133, 137, 141, 166, 169
-
-Chillianwallah, Battle of, 76
-
-China Factory, 132
-
-Chiswick, 52
-
-Christchurch Street, 89
-
-Chudleigh, Miss, 79
-
-Church Lane, 20, 151, 177
-
-Church, Old Chelsea, 24, 44, 53, 113, 134, 151
-
-„ Place, 149
-
-,, Street, 32, 150, 151
-
-Cicero, 49, 174
-
-“Citizen of the World,” 80
-
-Coldstream Guards, 74
-
-Colet, Dean, 41
-
-College, King James’s, 69, 77
-
-„ Fields, 76
-
-Colorado, 146
-
-Commonwealth, The, 50
-
-Condé, 93
-
-Congreve, William, 94, 95, 169
-
-“Connoisseur,” The, 80
-
-Cook, Captain, 178
-
-Covenanters, 160
-
-Craufield, Earl of Middlesex, 50
-
-Cremorne, Lady, 62
-
-„ Gardens, 62, 63, 81
-
-„ Viscount, 62
-
-Cressy, 34
-
-Cromwell, Richard, 122
-
-„ Thomas, 150
-
-Cross, Mrs. John Walter, 106
-
-Cubitt, 20
-
-Cuckfield, 148
-
-Cummings, Polly, 126
-
-Cunningham, Peter, 67
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-DACRE, Lady, 49, 50, 154
-
-Dacre’s, Lady, Almshouses, 155
-
-Danvers House, 133, 134
-
-,, Sir John, 134
-
-,, Street, 133
-
-Davies, Rev. R. H., 160
-
-Dawson, Thomas, 62
-
-Dead March, The, 74
-
-De Foe, Daniel, 121
-
-Devonshire, Duke of, 52, 130, 131
-
-Dickens, Charles, 109
-
-Dissolution, The, 68
-
-Doggett, 105
-
-Don Quixote, 141
-
-Don Saltero, 121
-
-Donne, Dr. John, 134, 177
-
-D’Orsay, 178
-
-Douglas, Black, The, 161
-
-Drury Lane Theatre, 78
-
-Druse, Mr., 115
-
-Dryden, John, 50, 93
-
-Duck Island, 93
-
-Dutch War, 27, 70
-
-Duke of York’s School, 95
-
-“Duke’s Head,” The, 89
-
-Dunbar, Battle of, 68
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-EARL’S Court, 141
-
-Eddystone Lighthouse, 118
-
-Edge Hill, 70
-
-Edict of Nantes, 27, 91, 160
-
-Edward the Confessor, 33
-
-,, VII., 117
-
-Eliot, George, 32, 106, 178
-
-Elizabeth, Princess, 115, 116, 117
-
-,, Queen, 32, 63, 129, 145, 150, 155, 174
-
-Elizabeth’s, Queen, Guard, 130
-
-,, Place, 149
-
-Embankment, The, 17, 28, 86, 98, 109, 134, 161
-
-Erasmus, 37, 40, 41, 44, 48, 153
-
-Esmond, Harry, Colonel, 24, 65
-
-“Essay on Man,” The, 166
-
-Essex, Earl of, 149, 150
-
-“Evelina,” 80
-
-Evelyn, John, 51, 67, 70, 101, 111, 118
-
-Eversleigh, 148
-
-Evremond, St., 86, 92, 93, 122, 178
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-FAIRFAX, General, 50
-
-Faulkner, 89, 142, 150
-
-“Ferdinand Count Fathom,” 138
-
-Fetter Lane, 58
-
-Fielding, Henry, 80
-
-„ Sir John, 159
-
-Fire Fields, 23
-
-Fletcher, Mrs., 159
-
-,, John, 159
-
-Flimnap, 85
-
-Flood Street, 88, 106, 113
-
-“Folly,” The, 62
-
-Fox, Sir Stephen, 67
-
-Foxe’s “Martyrology,” 158
-
-Franklin, Benjamin, 122, 125, 178
-
-French Gardeners, 27
-
-Fry, Elizabeth, 90
-
-Fulham, 32, 63, 66
-
-Fuller’s “Worthies,” 45
-
-Furnivall’s Inn, 46
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-GALLOWAY, Count, 91
-
-Garrick, David, 78, 141
-
-Gay, John, 19, 85, 142
-
-Geflitfullic, 33
-
-“Geoffrey Hamlyn,” 147
-
-George I., 83, 105, 119
-
-„ II., 83, 84
-
-,, III., 97
-
-„ IV., 86
-
-George and Garter, The, 51
-
-Gibbons, Grinling, 75
-
-Giggs, Margery, 41
-
-Glebe Place, 145
-
-Gloucester, 68
-
-Godfrey, 91
-
-Godolphin, Sydney, 92
-
-Goethe, 179
-
-Goldsmith, Oliver, 79
-
-“Gorbudic,” 49
-
-Gore House, 14
-
-Gorges, Sir Arthur, 63
-
-Gothic House, 106
-
-Gough House, 17, 98
-
-„ Sir John, 98
-
-Grand Monarque, The, 161
-
-Granville, Lord, 61
-
-Great Cheyne Row, 20, 137
-
-Green Arbour Court, 79
-
-Grey, Lady Jane, 118
-
-Grocyn, 41
-
-Guilds, City, 174
-
-Gwynne, Nell, 32, 63, 67, 68, 87
-
-“Gwynne, Nell,” The, 66
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-HALL, Mrs. S. C., 32
-
-Hallam, Henry, 92
-
-Halle, 58
-
-Hamilton, Duchess of, 88
-
-„ Sir William, 138
-
-Hampstead, 95
-
-Hampton Court, 23, 24, 111
-
-Hanover, 84, 105
-
-Hans Place, 31, 32, 96, 119, 178
-
-„ Town, 96
-
-Hardwick, Elizabeth, 130
-
-„ House, 131
-
-Hastings, Lady Elizabeth, 95
-
-Hedderly, J., the photographer, 27
-
-Henry VIII., 38, 42, 49, 112, 117, 138, 141, 174
-
-„ „ Palace, 112
-
-Herbert, George, 134, 174
-
-„ Lord of Cherbury, 134
-
-,, Magdalen, 134, 159, 178
-
-Herkomer, Hubert, 74
-
-Hermit of Chelsea, 138
-
-Herrnhuters, The, 61
-
-Hervey, Lord, 85
-
-Heywood, Ellis, 38
-
-Hill, John, 68
-
-“Hillyars and Burtons,” 149, 156
-
-Hoadley, Bishop, 131
-
-Hogarth, 131
-
-Holbein, 38, 44, 47, 48
-
-Holborn Viaduct Station, 79
-
-Holland, 58, 96
-
-,, House, 14, 57, 130, 133
-
-„ Lord, 133
-
-House of Commons, 47, 48
-
-Howard of Effingham, Lord, 174
-
-Huguenots, The, 160
-
-Hume’s “History of England,” 141
-
-“Humphrey Clinker,” 141
-
-Hundred of Ossulston, The, 33
-
-Hunt, Leigh, 79, 178
-
-Hunter, John, 141
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-INDIA House, 14, 125
-
-Infirmary, The, 67, 70, 82, 85
-
-Inkerman, 73
-
-Invalides, The, 67
-
-Islington, 14
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-“JACOB FAITHFUL,” 102
-
-Jacobites, The, 130
-
-Jacobs, Mrs. Mary, 125
-
-Jamaica, 119
-
-James I., 50, 162
-
-Jersey, 161
-
-Jewish Burial Ground, 52
-
-Jew’s Road, 97
-
-Jones, Inigo, 52, 57
-
-Johnson, Samuel, 79, 101, 132, 141, 177
-
-“Junius,” 159
-
-Justice Walk, 132
-
-Justina, Maria, 57
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-KENSAL Green, 109
-
-Kensington, 14, 17, 37, 84, 105, 133, 141
-
-,, House, 57
-
-King’s Bench, 47
-
-„ College, 146
-
-,, Road, 20, 23, 24, 28, 37, 53, 57, 63, 95, 115
-
-King James’s College, 69, 77
-
-Kingsley, Charles, 145, 146, 148
-
-,, George, 145, 146
-
-,, Henry, 145–150, 156, 178
-
-,, Rev. Charles, 146
-
-Knightsbridge, 13
-
-Knipp, Mrs., 105
-
-Knyff, L., 37
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-LACY, 78
-
-Lamb, Charles, 14, 125
-
-„ Lady Caroline, 31
-
-Landon, Letitia E., 31
-
-Lawrence family, 113, 141, 149, 156
-
-„ Sir Thomas, 157
-
-„ Manor House, 113, 141
-
-„ Chapel, 156, 157
-
-,, Street, 132, 141
-
-Lawson, Cecil, 109
-
-“Lay of the Last Minstrel,” 142
-
-Le Puy, 161
-
-Leicester, Earl of, 155
-
-,, Square, 178
-
-Lely, Sir Peter, 111
-
-Linacre, 41
-
-Lincoln’s Inn, 46
-
-Lindsey, Earl of, 58
-
-„ House, 17, 57, 58
-
-Little Britain, 122
-
-„ Cheyne Row, 141
-
-Locke, John, 177
-
-London, 13, 14, 19, 24, 31, 47, 53, 61, 69, 74, 90, 97, 101, 106, 122,
-134, 138, 146, 152, 159, 161
-
-London Bridge, 44, 105
-
-Louis XIV., 67, 160
-
-“Love for Love,” 169
-
-Lover’s Walk, 53
-
-Lucknow, 73
-
-Lysons, Samuel, 92
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-MACAULAY, T. B., 18, 70
-
-Maclise, Daniel, 106, 178
-
-“Magpie and Stump,” 126, 130
-
-Maiden Lane, 170
-
-Maintenon, Madame de, 165
-
-Mancini, Hortensia, 90
-
-Manor House, 106, 113, 116, 118, 119, 138
-
-„ Lawrence, 113, 141
-
-,, Street, 113, 121
-
-Marryat, 102
-
-Martyrology, 158
-
-Marvell, Andrew, 112
-
-Mary Queen of Scots, 49
-
-Mazarin, Cardinal, 90, 93
-
-,, Duchess of, 86, 91, 94
-
-Melford, Jerry, 141
-
-Mercians, The, 33
-
-Millbank, 87
-
-Millman’s Row, 145
-
-,, Street, 53, 145
-
-Milton, John, 78
-
-_Mirror_, _New York_, The, 14
-
-“Mirror of Literature,” 98
-
-Mitford, Mary Russell, 32
-
-Monk, General, 74
-
-Monmouth, Duchess of, 85, 142
-
-„ Duke of, 142
-
-,, House, 142, 145
-
-Montague, Edward, 81
-
-,, “Lady Mary Wortley, 85
-
-“Monthly Recorder,” 70
-
-Moravian Burial Ground, 53
-
-,, Chapel, 54, 58
-
-Moravians, The, 58, 61
-
-More, Sir Thomas: his house, 34; its site, 37; its gardens, 37; its
-gatehouse, 38, 52; the “newe buildinge,” 39, 133; his religious zeal, 39;
-his wit, 40; his “Utopia,” 41; his family and friends, 40, 41; his
-career, 46, 47; his downfall, 42; death, 43; grave, 44; monument, 151,
-153; existing relics of, 52–54, 112; portraits of, 47, 48; quotations
-from, 37, 38, 40; mentioned, 38, 39, 41, 42, 44, 47–49, 53, 54, 57, 58,
-94, 112, 113, 119, 133, 151, 153, 174
-
-Moricæ, The, 41
-
-Morten, Cardinal, 46
-
-Munden, Vice-Admiral, 121
-
-Museum, British, 33, 57, 78, 120
-
-Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 69
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, 48, 92
-
-New England, 125, 126
-
-„ Inn, 46
-
-„ River, 14, 69
-
-Newgate, 79
-
-Newton, Sir Isaac, 119, 177
-
-“Niagara, Shooting,” 138
-
-Norfolk, Duchess of, 34
-
-Norfolk, Duke of, 39
-
-Normans, The, 19, 28
-
-North American Colonies, 122
-
-Northumberland, Duchess of, 155
-
-Nostell Priory, 48
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-OAKLEY Street, 113, 126, 131
-
-Oak-Apple Day, 75
-
-Offa, King, 33
-
-Old Church, Chelsea, 24, 44, 53, 113, 134, 151
-
-Old Magpye Stairs, 20
-
-Oldcoates, 131
-
-Orford, Earl of, 81
-
-Ormond Row, 89
-
-Ossulston, Hundred of, 33
-
-Oxford, 46, 134, 146
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-PARADISE ROW, 86–89, 93, 98
-
-Parr, Catherine, 115–118
-
-Paulton Terrace, 150
-
-Paultons Square, 134, 150
-
-Pelham, Earl of, 88
-
-Penn, Granville, 62
-
-,, William, 62
-
-Pennsylvania, 58, 61, 62
-
-Pepys, Samuel, 19, 67, 81, 88, 102, 111
-
-Petersham, Lady Caroline, 79
-
-Pimlico, 23
-
-,, Road, 97
-
-Piozzi, Mrs., 133
-
-Poet’s Corner, 93
-
-Poictiers, 34
-
-Polyphilus, 101
-
-Pope, Alexander, 51, 52, 85, 166
-
-Pound Lane, 20
-
-Pretender, The, 66
-
-Prince Rupert, 69, 70
-
-“Prince of Wales,” The, 132
-
-Putney, 150, 162
-
-Pym, 177
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-QUEEN Anne Architecture, 18, 28
-
-,, „ Street, 170
-
-„ Elizabeth’s Place, 149
-
-Queen’s Elm, 32
-
-„ House, 109, 112, 114
-
-„ Road, 87, 98, 102
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-RADNOR, Earl of, 88
-
-„ Street, 88
-
-“Rambler,” The, 101
-
-Ranelagh, Earl of, 77, 78, 81
-
-„ Gardens, 77, 79, 80
-
-„ House, 78, 80, 81
-
-„ Stairs, 20
-
-Reade, Charles, 13
-
-Rectory, Chelsea, 145
-
-Red Lion Passage, 80
-
-Reformation, The, 157
-
-Renatus, Christian, 54
-
-Restoration, The, 50, 62, 68, 75
-
-Reuss, Countess, 57
-
-Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 27, 91, 160
-
-Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 79
-
-Ricci, Sebastian, 74
-
-Richard III., 34
-
-Richmond, 84
-
-Robarte, Lord, 88
-
-Roberts, Miss, 31
-
-Robinson’s Lane, 88
-
-Rochester, Earl of, 87, 91, 98
-
-“Roderick Random,” 138
-
-Romans, The, 19, 28
-
-Roper, Margaret, 43, 45, 46
-
-„ William, 38, 133
-
-Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, 109, 114, 178
-
-„ House, The, 109, 112
-
-Royal Academy, 109
-
-„ Hospital, 78
-
-„ Society, 69, 119
-
-Rupert, Prince, 69, 70
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-ST. ALBANS, Duke of, 87
-
-„ Dunstan’s, Canterbury, 45
-
-„ ,, in the West, 134
-
-„ Evremond, 86, 92, 93, 122, 178
-
-„ George’s Workhouse, 177
-
-„ James’s Palace, 113
-
-,, ,, Park, 20, 93
-
-,, ,, Street, 113
-
-„ Katherine’s Docks, 20
-
-St. Lawrence, Old Jewry, 46
-
-„ Loo, Sir William, 130
-
-„ Luke’s, Chelsea, 145, 146
-
-„ Mary’s, Battersea, 165
-
-„ Paul’s, 69, 170
-
-,, ,, School, 41
-
-Sackville, Thomas, 49
-
-Salisbury, Earl of, 50
-
-Saltero, Don, 121
-
-“Saltero’s, Don,” 122, 125, 126
-
-Sandford Manor House, 63, 65
-
-Sand’s End, 31, 63, 65
-
-Sandwich, Earl of, 81, 86, 88
-
-School of Discipline, 90
-
-„ Duke of York’s, 95
-
-Scott, Sir Walter, 142
-
-Seddon, John P., 109
-
-Selwyn, George, 79
-
-Sepoy Mutiny, 75
-
-Sèvres, 132
-
-Seymour, Admiral, 115–117
-
-Shadwell, Sir John, 177
-
-,, Thomas, 159
-
-Shaftesbury, Earl of, 177
-
-Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 32, 178
-
-Shore, Jane, 34
-
-Shrewsbury, Countess of, 131
-
-,, Earl of, 129, 130
-
-„ House, 129, 131
-
-Sidney, Sir Philip, 155
-
-“Slaves of Virtue,” 58
-
-Sloane, Elizabeth, 120
-
-„ Hans, House, 106
-
-,, ,, Sir, 52, 58, 101, 102, 118–120, 122, 159, 177
-
-„ Square, 96, 119
-
-,, Street, 96, 178
-
-Smith Street, 89
-
-Smollett, Tobias, 24, 80, 94, 138, 141, 142
-
-Society of Apothecaries, 101
-
-,, Royal, 69, 119
-
-Somerset, the Protector, 117
-
-_Spectator_, The, 80
-
-Spenser, Edmund, 63
-
-Spilsberg, Convent of, 39
-
-Spraggs, John, 159
-
-Spring Gardens, 79
-
-Stanley, Dean, 152
-
-,, House, 17, 63
-
-“Steenie,” 50, 174
-
-“Stella,” 24, 97
-
-Steele, Sir Richard, 23, 94, 95, 122, 125, 178
-
-Sterne, Laurence, 79, 141
-
-Strype, John, 52
-
-Suffolk Street, Pall Mall, 24
-
-Sunderland, Lady, 51
-
-Swan House, 102
-
-„ “Walk,” 98
-
-“Swan, Old,” 102, 105
-
-“Swan,” The, 19, 105
-
-Swift, Jonathan, 24, 83, 84, 97, 166, 177
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-TANGIERS, 69
-
-_Tatler_, The, 23, 95, 122
-
-Taverns:
-
-  Aquatic Stores, 169
-
-  Black Horse, 129
-
-  Chelsea Pensioner, 89
-
-  Don Saltero’s, 122, 125, 126
-
-  Duke’s Head, 89
-
-  Magpie and Stump, 126, 130
-
-  Nell Gwynne, 66
-
-  Prince of Wales, 132
-
-  Swan, 19, 105
-
-  „ Old, 102, 105
-
-  World’s End, 169
-
-Thackeray, 65, 83
-
-Thames, The, 18, 31, 37, 38, 44, 162, 169, 178
-
-Thames Watermen, 105
-
-Thomson, James, 44
-
-Threadneedle Street, 46
-
-Tite Street, 17, 98
-
-Tothill Street, 155
-
-Tours, Archbishop of, 102
-
-Tower, 42, 50, 116, 154, 165
-
-„ Chapel, 44
-
-„ Hill, 43
-
-,, Wharf, 43
-
-“Tracts and Letters,” 153
-
-Trinobantes, 20
-
-Turenne, 93
-
-Turner, 165, 169, 170, 178
-
-Twickenham, 85
-
-Tyndale, 153
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-VALE, The, 27
-
-Vanbrugh, Sir John, 83
-
-Vanhomrigh, Mrs., 24
-
-Vauxhall, 78
-
-Verrio, 165
-
-Versailles, 111
-
-Victoria Hospital for Children, 98
-
-Village of Palaces, 17
-
-Villars, Marshall, 161
-
-Villiers, George, 50, 51
-
-Voltaire, 92, 166
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-WALLER, Edmund, 111
-
-Walpole, Horace, 78, 84
-
-„ House, 17, 81, 84, 166
-
-,, Lady, 85
-
-„ Sir Robert, 79, 81–85, 89, 166
-
-„ Street, 81
-
-Walton, Isaac, 134, 178
-
-Wargrave, Henley-on-Thames, 149
-
-Warwick, Earl of, 34, 65
-
-Waterloo, 74
-
-Wellington, Duke of, 73, 162
-
-Westminster, 20, 33, 47, 155
-
-,, Hall, 43
-
-Whitehall, 20, 129
-
-William and Mary, 37, 73
-
-William Rufus’s Hall, 47
-
-Willis, N. P., 14
-
-Wilkes, John, 141
-
-Wilkie, the Painter, 74
-
-Winchelsea, Lord, 162
-
-Winchester, Bishop of, 131
-
-,, Marquis of, 145
-
-Windsor Castle, 48
-
-Winstanley, 118
-
-Wolsey, Cardinal, 38, 42, 113
-
-Woodfall, 159
-
-Worcester, Battle of, 68
-
-,, College, Oxford, 146
-
-,, Marquis of, 52
-
-“World’s End,” The, 169
-
-Wren, Sir Christopher, 73, 110
-
-Wyatt family, The, 149
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-YORKSHIRE, 79
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-ZIMRI, 50
-
-Zinzendorf, Count, 54, 57, 58
-
-                                * * * * *
-
-         UNWIN BROTHERS, THE GRESHAM PRESS, CHILWORTH AND LONDON.
-
-
-
-
-FOOTNOTES.
-
-
-{26}  This illustration and those on pages 114 and 123, have been made
-from photographs by J. Hedderly, and are admirable specimens of the many
-taken by him during a long and laborious life, and which have genuine
-artistic merit as well as historic value in their preservation of the
-features of Old Chelsea.  Hedderly’s was the curious case of a man living
-for fifty years in daily contact with the ancient and the odd, and yet
-always keen to appreciate it and accurate in seizing it.  On his death,
-in 1885, his plates went to his daughter, and the photographs can be
-bought from George White, Printer, 396, King’s Road, just at the end of
-Park Walk: by whose permission these photographs have been re-drawn.
-
-{31}  One of her school-mates here, by the way, was that Miss Roberts who
-wrote so well about India; another was Lady Caroline Lamb, heroine of the
-scissors-stabbing scene for Byron’s sake.  And among other scholars here
-at other times we find names famous in later life, as that of Lady
-Bulwer, of Mrs. S. C. Hall, of Miss Mary Russell Mitford.  The latter
-lady lived for several years after her school days at No. 33, Hans Place.
-In No. 41 lodged Percy Bysshe Shelley, at one time.  These two last-named
-houses have been raised two stories, and renewed; while Nos. 22 and 25
-have been recently torn down and rebuilt.  Thus every house in Hans Place
-having historic association has been ruined for us, and others of no
-interest from our point of view in this stroll are left intact in their
-age—a queer fatality which I find to have pursued too many buildings of
-old London!
-
-{48}  The painting in the National Portrait Gallery is a copy by an
-unknown—withal a skilful—hand, of Holbein’s crayon sketch, now in Windsor
-Castle.  Its most striking feature is More’s mouth: these lips seem to
-speak to us at once with sweetness and with sternness.
-
-{57}  In our reproduction of this rare print in the British Museum of
-about the year 1682, Lindsey House is seen on the river bank at the
-extreme left; behind it is a building in the Dutch style, concerning
-which I can find no record anywhere; More’s mansion stands on the slope
-half-way up to King’s Road, in the midst of its “great extent of
-profitable garden and pleasure ground;” behind and to its left are the
-stables and out-buildings.  Just beyond King’s Road, on the left, may be
-seen the small settlement named then and known now as “Little Chelsea.”
-In the far distance, rise, on their wooded slopes, Holland, Camden, and
-Kensington Houses.  The gate-house of Inigo Jones shows plainly towards
-the front, and from it the broad walk—now Beaufort Street—leads to the
-river and the ferry, just at the spot where now springs Battersea Bridge.
-
-{58}  You may see a picture of such a scene—the sermon to a group of
-negroes—in the old Moravian chapel in Fetter Lane.  Here, too, are many
-relics of interest of the man: his chair, with claw feet and curious
-carvings; his queer old-German Hymn-book, printed in 1566, with metal
-clasps and corners; and his portrait, life-size and in oil.
-
-{80}  There lies on my desk, as I write, a copper token, which I lately
-picked up in a shabby shop of Red Lion Passage, High Holborn.  It is
-about the size of a penny piece, and on it is stamped “RANELAGH HOUSE,
-1745:” these raised letters as clearly cut as on the day when coined.  It
-pleases me to wonder which and how many of the men I mention above may
-have handed in this piece at the entrance gate.
-
-{91}  Henri, Marquis of Ruvigny, fled from France on the Revocation of
-the Edict of Nantes, came to England, was here naturalized, and received
-the title of Count of Galloway.
-
-{109}  In the embankment garden, just in front, has lately been placed a
-memorial to the poet and painter: his bust in bronze modelled by Ford
-Madox Brown, the painter, surmounting a graceful drinking fountain
-designed by John P. Seddon, the architect; both life-long friends of
-Rossetti.
-
-{125}  This house was kept, in 1790, by a Mrs. Mary Jacob, a New England
-woman, and I have seen a letter from her to her brother in America, in
-which she says, in her old-fashioned spelling: “I keap a Coffe Hous,
-which I can Scarcely macke a bit of Bred for myself, but it Ennabels me
-to keep a home for my Sons.”  This letter is prized as a relic by the
-family, none of whom have any notion of how “Polly Cummings”—her maiden
-name in New England—found her way to Chelsea and to Don Saltero’s!
-
-{160}  I quote this sentence from a letter sent to me by the Reverend R.
-H. Davies, Incumbent of the Old Church, Chelsea, to whom I am indebted
-for courtesies in this connection: “To my mind, there is no doubt that
-his grave is somewhere in the open part of the churchyard; but, as the
-grave-stone has disappeared, it would be too great a work to excavate the
-whole with the hope of finding the coffin-plate.”
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD CHELSEA***
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-
-The Project Gutenberg eBook, Old Chelsea, by Benjamin Ellis Martin,
-Illustrated by Joseph Pennell
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: Old Chelsea
-       A Summer-Day's Stroll
-
-
-Author: Benjamin Ellis Martin
-
-
-
-Release Date: August 1, 2020  [eBook #62807]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD CHELSEA***
-</pre>
-<p>Transcribed from the 1889 T. Fisher Unwin edition by David
-Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/fpb.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm"
-title=
-"Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm"
- src="images/fps.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<h1>OLD CHELSEA<br />
-<span class="GutSmall"><i>A SUMMER-DAY&rsquo;S
-STROLL</i></span></h1>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
-/>
-BENJAMIN ELLIS MARTIN</p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">ILLUSTRATED
-BY JOSEPH PENNELL</span></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p0b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Gateway of Rossetti&rsquo;s old house"
-title=
-"Gateway of Rossetti&rsquo;s old house"
- src="images/p0s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">London<br />
-T FISHER UNWIN<br />
-26 <span class="smcap">Paternoster Square</span><br />
-1889</p>
-<h2><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-7</span>NOTE.</h2>
-<p><span class="smcap">The</span> stroll described in these pages
-may be imagined to be taken during the summer of 1888: all the
-dates, descriptions, and references herein having been brought
-down to the present moment.</p>
-<p>The specimen of Old Chelsea ware on the cover is an accurate
-copy&mdash;reduced in size, naturally&mdash;of one of the plates
-of the set belonging once to Dr. Johnson, now in Holland
-House.&nbsp; For the privilege of this unique reproduction I am
-indebted to the courtesy of Lady Holland.</p>
-<p style="text-align: right">B. E. M.</p>
-<p><span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>August</i>, 1888</p>
-<h2><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>LIST OF
-ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
-<table>
-<tr>
-<td></td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
-class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY
-BOEHM</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><i>Frontispiece</i></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">THE EMBANKMENT MANSIONS FROM
-BATTERSEA</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image16">16</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">A VIEW OF CHELSEA</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image21">21</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">STEAMBOAT PIER AT OLD BATTERSEA
-BRIDGE, AND THE RIVER FRONT, TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image26">26</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">THE EMBANKMENT AND OLD BATTERSEA
-BRIDGE</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image29">29</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">MAP OF CHELSEA</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image35">35</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">THE HOUSES AT CHELSEA</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image56">56</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">LINDSEY HOUSE AND BATTERSEA
-BRIDGE</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image59">59</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">SANDFORD MANOR HOUSE, SAND&rsquo;S
-END</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page64">64</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">CHELSEA HOSPITAL, RIVER
-FRONT</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image72">72</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">PARADISE ROW</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">TITE STREET</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image99">99</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">STATUE OF SIR HANS SLOANE IN THE
-BOTANIC GARDENS</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image103">103</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">NO. 4, CHEYNE WALK</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image107">107</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">GATEWAY OF ROSSETTI&rsquo;S OLD
-HOUSE</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTI&rsquo;S
-GARDEN</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-10</span><span class="GutSmall">DON SALTERO&rsquo;S</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image123">123</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">CHEYNE WALK, WITH THE MAGPIE AND
-STUMP</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image127">127</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">A CHELSEA CORNER</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY
-BOEHM</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image136">136</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">CARLYLE&rsquo;S HOUSE, GREAT CHEYNE
-ROW</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image139">139</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">THE CHELSEA RECTORY</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image144">144</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">A CORNER IN CHELSEA OLD
-CHURCH</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">OLD BATTERSEA CHURCH, WHERE BLAKE
-WAS MARRIED, SHOWING THE WINDOW FROM WHICH TURNER
-SKETCHED</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image164">164</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">THE WESTERN END OF CHEYNE
-WALK</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image167">167</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">TURNER&rsquo;S LAST
-DWELLING-PLACE</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image171">171</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-<tr>
-<td><p><span class="GutSmall">BATTERSEA BRIDGE AND CHURCH FROM
-TURNER&rsquo;S HOUSE</span></p>
-</td>
-<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="imageref"><a
-href="#image176">176</a></span></p>
-</td>
-</tr>
-</table>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<blockquote><p><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-11</span>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Out</span> of monuments,
-names, wordes, proverbs, traditions, private recordes and
-evidences, fragments of stories, passages of bookes, and the
-like, we doe save and re-cover somewhat from the deluge of
-Time.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Bacon</i>, &ldquo;<i>Advancement of
-Learning</i>&rdquo;, <i>Book II</i>.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;I have always loved to wander over the scenes inhabited
-by men I have known, admired, loved, or revered, as well amongst
-the living as the dead.&nbsp; The spots inhabited and preferred
-by a great man during his passage on the earth have always
-appeared to me the surest and most speaking relic of himself: a
-kind of material manifestation of his genius&mdash;a mute
-revelation of a portion of his soul&mdash;a living and sensible
-commentary on his life, actions, and
-thoughts.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Lamartine</i>, &ldquo;<i>Pilgrimage to
-the Holy Land</i>.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;The man that is tired of London is tired of
-existence.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Samuel Johnson</i>.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<h2><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span><i>Old
-Chelsea</i>.</h2>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image16" href="images/p16b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The embankment mansions from Battersea"
-title=
-"The embankment mansions from Battersea"
- src="images/p16s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> strolled, on a summer day,
-from Apsley House towards the then residence of Charles Reade at
-Knightsbridge, when I came upon one of those surprises of which
-London is still so full to me, even after more than a dozen years
-of fond familiarity with its streets and with all that they mean
-to the true lover of the Town.&nbsp; For, as I watched the
-ceaseless traffic of the turbulent turnings from the great
-thoroughfare down towards Chelsea, there came to my mind a phrase
-in the pages of its local historian: who, writing but a little
-earlier than the year 1830, points with pride to a project just
-then formed for the laying out of the latest of these very
-streets&mdash;at that day it was a new rural road cut through
-fields and swamps&mdash;and by it, he says, &ldquo;Chelsea will
-obtain direct connection with London; <a name="page14"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 14</span>and henceforth must be considered an
-integral part of the Great Metropolis of the British
-Empire&rdquo;!&nbsp; It is hard to realise that only fifty years
-ago Chelsea was a rustic and retired village, far from London:
-even as was Islington, fifty years ago, when Charles Lamb,
-pensioned and set free from his desk in the India House, retired
-to that secluded spot with his sister to live &ldquo;in a
-cottage, with a spacious garden,&rdquo; as he wrote; with
-&ldquo;the New River, rather elderly by this time, running in
-front (if a moderate walking pace can be so termed)&rdquo;: even
-as was Kensington&mdash;&ldquo;the old court suburb pleasantly
-situated on the great Western road&rdquo;&mdash;just fifty years
-ago, when wits and statesmen drove between fields and market
-gardens to the rival courts of Gore House and of Holland House;
-and N. P. Willis delighted the feminine readers of the <i>New
-York Mirror</i> with his gossip about his visits to Lady
-Blessington and about the celebrities who bowed before her.&nbsp;
-To-day all these villages, along with many even more remote, are
-one with London.&nbsp; Yet, more than any of them, has Chelsea
-kept its old village character&mdash;albeit preserving but few of
-its old village features.&nbsp; <a name="page17"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 17</span>Of the many magnificent mansions
-which gave it the name of &ldquo;The Village of Palaces&rdquo;
-five alone still stand&mdash;Blacklands, Gough, Lindsey, Stanley
-and Walpole Houses&mdash;and these are greatly altered.&nbsp; I
-shall show you all of them in our stroll to-day.&nbsp; In between
-them, and away beyond them, streets have been cut, new quarters
-built: made up in part of &ldquo;genteel&rdquo; villas and rows
-of respectable residences; but in great part, also, of cheap
-dwellings, of small and shabby shops.&nbsp; These extremes render
-much of modern Chelsea utterly uninteresting, except mayhap to
-the collector of rents or to the inspector of nuisances.&nbsp;
-Yet much of that which is truly ancient and honourable has been
-fondly kept untouched, and not ignobly cleaned, as in next-door
-Kensington.&nbsp; Alongside this artistic squalor we have the
-curious contrast of artistic splendour in a blazing, brand-new
-quarter, of which the sacred centre is Tite Street.&nbsp; Here,
-amid much that is good and genuine in our modern manner, there is
-an aggressive affectation of antiquity shown by the little houses
-and studios obtruding on the street, by the grandiose piles of
-mansions towering on the embankment: all in <a
-name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>raging red
-brick, and in the so-called Queen Anne style.&nbsp; The original
-article, deadly dull and decorous as it may be, has yet a decent
-dignity of its own as a real relic, not found in this painful
-pretence of ancient quaintness.&nbsp; This is a quarter, however,
-much in vogue; mighty swells dwell here, and here pose some
-famous <i>farceurs</i> in art and literature; here, too, work
-many earnest men and women in all pursuits of life.&nbsp; These
-latter plentifully people every part of Chelsea, for the sake of
-the seclusion and the stillness they seek and here find: just as
-there settled here for the same reasons, two centuries ago and
-earlier, men of learning and of wealth, scholars and nobles, who
-kept themselves exclusive by virtue of their birth or their
-brains.&nbsp; And so this privileged suburb,</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Where fruitful Thames salutes the learned
-shore,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>came to be in time a place of polite resort: while yet, in the
-words of Macaulay, it was but &ldquo;a quiet country village of
-about one thousand inhabitants, the baptisms therein averaging a
-little more than forty in the year.&rdquo;&nbsp; On the slope
-which rises from the river&mdash;as we see it <a
-name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>in our print
-of those days&mdash;stand, in trim gardens, the grand mansions
-which first made the little village famous.&nbsp; Back from these
-isolated houses and between them stretch fair fields, and fertile
-meadows, and wooded slopes; and along the river bank runs a row
-of fishermen&rsquo;s thatched cottages.&nbsp; Here and there on
-the shore, are nestled noted taverns and pleasure-gardens, much
-frequented by town visitors, reputable or not, coming up the
-river on excursions&mdash;as does Pepys, &ldquo;to make merry at
-the Swan.&rdquo;&nbsp; Gay sings of the place and the period:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Then Chelsey&rsquo;s meads o&rsquo;erhear
-perfidious vows,<br />
-And the press&rsquo;d grass defrauds the grazing cows.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The low river shore, planted with lime and plane trees, is
-protected by a slight embankment: first built by the Romans on
-the banks above their walled town of London: improved later by
-the Norman conquerors; and kept in repair afterward either by
-landlord or by tenant, as might be decided in the incessant
-disputes between them, still shown on the parish records of that
-day.&nbsp; This little embankment <a name="page20"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 20</span>is broken here and there by carved
-gateways, giving entrance to the grand houses; and by water
-staircases&mdash;called, in our print, Ranelagh, Bishop&rsquo;s,
-Old Magpye, Beaufort Stairs&mdash;from which a few country
-lanes&mdash;such as Pound and Church Lanes and Cheyne
-Row&mdash;lead from the river front to the King&rsquo;s
-Road.&nbsp; This road had been first a foot-path following the
-windings of the river a little inland&mdash;worn perhaps by the
-feet of the wandering tribes of Trinobantes&mdash;and had
-gradually enlarged itself as the country around became
-cultivated.&nbsp; It led from the village of Whitehall through
-the woods and fields, across the tidal swamps and the marsh lands
-west of Westminster&mdash;partly filled in by the great Cubitt
-with the earth dug out in the excavations of St.
-Katherine&rsquo;s docks, early in this century: where now
-stretches graceful St. James&rsquo;s Park, where now Belgravia is
-built so bravely&mdash;and so the road ran to the slopes of
-Chelsea, to the first good land close alongside the river which
-rose fairly above it.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image21" href="images/p21b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"A view of Chelsea"
-title=
-"A view of Chelsea"
- src="images/p21s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Such was the secret of the speedy settlement of this secluded
-suburb.&nbsp; It was high and healthy, and <a
-name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>had easy
-access to town by the safe, swift, silent highway of the river;
-when few cared to go by the land road, bad enough at its best,
-unsafe even in daylight by reason of the foot-pads; but at last
-made wide and smooth for his coach by Charles II., recently
-restored.&nbsp; He used it as the royal route to Hampton Palace,
-and called it the King&rsquo;s Private Road.&nbsp; Even that
-exclusive name did not serve to make it safe; and long after
-Chelsea Hospital was built, a guard of its pensioners nightly
-patrolled, as an escort for honest travellers, from where
-Buckingham Palace now stands, across Bloody Bridge,&mdash;at the
-edge of present Pimlico,&mdash;and so away through the Five
-Fields, &ldquo;where robbers lie in wait,&rdquo; as the
-<i>Tatler</i> puts it.&nbsp; For Mr. Dick Steele often went by
-this road to Chelsea, where he had a little house somewhere near
-the river bank: whereto he was fond of taking &ldquo;a friend to
-supper,&rdquo; leaving word at home that he should not be able to
-return until the next morning, the roads being so unsafe by
-night!&nbsp; Sometimes his friend Addison was with him; sometimes
-the latter walked this way alone to his own home, <a
-name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>at the
-farther end of Chelsea; and once on a moonlight night, he
-strolled out here with Colonel Esmond, as you may remember.&nbsp;
-A few years later, this same walk was frequently taken by Mr.
-Jonathan Swift, from Mrs. Vanhomrigh&rsquo;s house in Suffolk
-Street, Pall Mall&mdash;where he used to leave his &ldquo;best
-gown and periwig,&rdquo; as he tells Stella&mdash;&ldquo;and so
-to Chelsea, a little beyond the Church.&rdquo;&nbsp; And still
-later, in December, 1754, Smollett was robbed of his watch and
-purse&mdash;there was but little in the latter, for he was then
-in poor case&mdash;as he went by coach from London to his
-residence out in Chelsea.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image26" href="images/p26b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Steamboat Pier at Old Battersea Bridge, and the river front,
-twenty-five years ago"
-title=
-"Steamboat Pier at Old Battersea Bridge, and the river front,
-twenty-five years ago"
- src="images/p26s.jpg" />
-</a> <a name="citation26"></a><a href="#footnote26"
-class="citation">[26]</a></p>
-<p>&ldquo;King&rsquo;s Road,&rdquo; as we see it to-day, in dingy
-letters on the old brick or plaster-fronted houses, makes us
-almost look for the Merry Monarch&mdash;as history has mis-named
-one of her saddest figures&mdash;driving past, on his way to
-Hampton Court, in company with a bevy of those beauties who still
-lure our senses from out their canvasses on the walls of the old
-palace.&nbsp; We see, at intervals along the road, behind its
-rusty <a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>iron
-railings and flagged front-yard and old-time porch, a long low
-brick house,</p>
-<blockquote><p>. . .&nbsp; &ldquo;whose ancient casements
-stare<br />
-Like sad, dim eyes, at the retreating years,&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>as if weary of waiting for their owner to come home from the
-Dutch wars.&nbsp; Through narrow archways we catch glimpses of
-trees and of gardens.&nbsp; Turning down a rural lane we stroll
-into &ldquo;The Vale,&rdquo; and find a clump of cottages,
-covered with vines, grown about with greenery; flowers blow,
-cocks crow, an air of country unconcern covers the
-enclosure.&nbsp; The French gardeners who came here in crowds in
-1685, after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and set
-Chelsea <a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-28</span>all a-bloom with their nurseries, have left to their
-heirs but a diminished domain; yet although Butterfly Alley,
-sought by sauntering swells, has gone, King&rsquo;s Road is still
-countrified by its florists: their famous wistarias grow on the
-Hospital walls and climb the houses of Cheyne Walk: you still
-find their fig-trees in private gardens, their vines on
-old-fashioned trellises: they make Chelsea streets all green and
-golden with their massed creepers through summer and through
-autumn.&nbsp; In unexpected corners you will stumble on a
-collection of cosy cottages, like Camera Square; there are a few
-rural nooks still left; here and there a woodland walk; and in
-dairies hid behind stone streets the cow is milked for you while
-you wait to drink the warm milk.</p>
-<p>And on the river bank, although the old Roman and the old
-Norman wall and walk are replaced by the broad new Embankment and
-its smug gardens; although the insolent affectations of the Queen
-Anne mania stare stonily down on Cheyne Walk; all these have not
-been able to vulgarise this most delightful of promenades.&nbsp;
-Starting from Chelsea Barracks we <a name="page31"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 31</span>can still walk under the old plane
-trees:&mdash;on our right the ancient Dutch-fronted houses, so
-prim, so secluded, so reserved; on our left the placid flow of
-the storied Thames, broadened here into Chelsea Reach:&mdash;to
-dingy, dear old Battersea Bridge, and so on to Sand&rsquo;s
-End.&nbsp; At each end of our walk are the two small rivulets
-which bounded the old parish east and west; one is now arched
-over and flows unseen beneath the tread of busy feet; the other
-serves as a railway cutting and carries rattling trains: so the
-old-time memories of the place now either flow underground, or
-are modernised and become part of its daily life.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image29" href="images/p29b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Embankment and Old Battersea Bridge"
-title=
-"The Embankment and Old Battersea Bridge"
- src="images/p29s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>In the extreme north-eastern corner as we enter Chelsea we
-find Hans Place, a secluded green oval, built about with old-time
-two-storied brick houses.&nbsp; In No. 25 was born in 1802 the
-poetess, Letitia E. Landon, known as &ldquo;L. E. L.&rdquo;; and
-at No. 22 she went to school. <a name="citation31"></a><a
-href="#footnote31" class="citation">[31]</a>&nbsp; At the
-farthest south-western point of the <a name="page32"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 32</span>parish, just over on the border of
-Fulham, stands the old house once tenanted by Nell Gwynne.&nbsp;
-At the northern end of Church Street, opposite the Jewish burial
-ground, is a public-house, &ldquo;The Queen&rsquo;s Elm,&rdquo;
-perpetuating the memory of the tree, there standing until very
-lately, under which Elizabeth sought shelter from a shower, when
-strolling in the fields with Burleigh on one of her frequent
-visits to Chelsea.&nbsp; On the southern, the river, border of
-the parish, lived George Eliot; and here, at No. 4, Cheyne Walk,
-she died.&nbsp; Between these spots, marked by the memories of
-these four women, so far apart in time, rank, and character, how
-much of history and romance do we traverse!</p>
-<p><a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>In
-taking you for a stroll to-day through Old Chelsea we will not
-stop to puzzle over the etymology of the name; whether it came
-from the Saxon, <i>Chelchythe</i>, or from <i>Chesel</i>, meaning
-gravel, and <i>ea</i>, meaning a bank: nor trace it back to its
-earliest appearance in Saxon chronicles, in 745, as the Hundred
-of Ossulston, Middlesex.&nbsp; You may see, if you choose, in the
-British Museum, the Charter of Edward the Confessor giving the
-&ldquo;Manor of Chelsey to the Abbot and brothers of the
-Ministers of the West,&rdquo; by whom it was rented for four
-pounds yearly.&nbsp; But it will not add to the interest of our
-stroll to learn that when it was a residence of Offa, King of the
-Mercians, there was a &ldquo;Geflit-fullic&rdquo; held here; nor
-that they had &ldquo;a contentious synod.&rdquo;&nbsp; Nor shall
-we altogether partake of the joy of one Maitland, sounding for
-many a day up and down the river, and at last finding, on the
-eighteenth of September, 1732, the very ford between Chelsea and
-Battersea, traversed by C&aelig;sar&rsquo;s army in pursuit of
-the flying Britons.&nbsp; For several centuries after the
-Conquest, the <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-34</span>names Chelcheth or Chelchith were used indifferently; in
-the sixteenth century it began to be written Chelsey; and it is
-only since about 1795 that the modern spelling has prevailed.</p>
-<p>Among the archives of Chelsea may be seen the will, dated in
-1369, of the Earl of Warwick; and we know that long before that
-year he had come here with the prestige of his prowess at
-Poictiers, his courage at Cressy, and had built himself a
-house&mdash;the first great nobleman&rsquo;s house erected
-here.&nbsp; But we do not know where it stood, nor anything more
-of it, than that it was afterwards leased by Richard III. to the
-widowed Duchess of Norfolk for the yearly rental of one red
-rose.</p>
-<p>Sir Thomas More&rsquo;s is the first house, as well as the
-fullest of human interest, of which we have any authentic record
-in Chelsea; and it was he who laid the foundations of the
-prosperity of the place.&nbsp; He built it for himself in 1520:
-glad to go from narrow Bucklersbury in the City to sweet sights
-and sounds and air for his young children.&nbsp; For more than
-two centuries his house stood here, tenanted by many <a
-name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>families,
-famous and infamous, until 1740, when it was pulled down.&nbsp;
-It is a labour of love, and no difficult one, to reconstruct it
-as Bowack saw it: &ldquo;This house is between 200 and 300 feet
-in length, has a stately ancient front towards the Thames, also
-two spacious courtyards, and behind it are <i>very fine
-gardens</i>.&nbsp; It is so pleasantly situated that the late
-Queen Mary had a great desire to purchase it before King William
-built Kensington Palace, but was prevented by some secret
-obstacles.&rdquo;&nbsp; An old view signed &ldquo;L. Knyff del:
-1699,&rdquo; shows us a projecting porch in the centre, a dozen
-or more generous windows on each floor, four of them oriel; and
-above, many gables, turrets, and a small tower.&nbsp; The back
-view crowds together, in picturesque confusion, a mass of
-casements, close packed gables, and jutting pent-houses.&nbsp;
-Such was &ldquo;this pore howse in Chelchith&rdquo; from which
-More dated one of his letters; and Erasmus wrote of it that it
-was &ldquo;neither mean nor invidiously grand, and so subject to
-envy, yet commodious enough.&rdquo;&nbsp; It stood on the slope a
-little back from the river, half-way up to the King&rsquo;s Road,
-about where Beaufort Street now runs.&nbsp; A spacious <a
-name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>garden lay in
-front, too, wherein the great Chancellor was wont to walk, as
-well as on the gate-house, which, in the words of Aubrey,
-&ldquo;was flatt on the top, leaded, from whence is a most
-pleasant prospect of the Thames and the fields
-beyond.&rdquo;&nbsp; Sometimes he walked with his guest Holbein;
-sometimes with his friend Ellis Heywood, poet and playwright, who
-wrote warmly about &ldquo;this enchanting spot&rdquo;; sometimes
-with his King, Henry VIII., who, still posing as a good Catholic
-and Defender of the Faith, used to come up the river, drop into
-dinner, and saunter afterward in the garden, his arm about
-More&rsquo;s neck.&nbsp; The son-in-law, Roper, records this with
-delight, &ldquo;never having seen the King so familiar with any
-one else, except Wolsey.&rdquo;&nbsp; More knew just what all
-this was worth, and that his head would count, with the king, for
-nothing against &ldquo;say a French city or a
-citadel.&rdquo;&nbsp; Wolsey&rsquo;s fate&mdash;the fate of so
-many others&mdash;howbeit warned none of the rest; else could
-they not have forgotten that to every neck on which had hung that
-royal ruffian&rsquo;s arm the axe soon came; and that to be his
-friend was only a little less dangerous than to be his wife.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image35" href="images/p35b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Map of Chelsea"
-title=
-"Map of Chelsea"
- src="images/p35s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p><a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>In this
-garden were the stocks for heretics, and the &ldquo;Jesus
-tree,&rdquo; or tree of troth, whereat they were flogged; for
-More was fond of suppressing heresy, and failing that, he used to
-suppress the heretics, by flinging them into prison.&nbsp; The
-resolute old Catholic denied that he had ever laid hands on a
-dissident, but it is certain that some one did so by his
-orders.&nbsp; Near his house he had put up the &ldquo;newe
-buildinge, for the entertainment of distressed old men and
-women;&rdquo; and therein was a small chapel, where he spent much
-time, praying, and scourging himself with a knotted cord; wearing
-next his skin the hair shirt which is still preserved in the
-convent of Spilsberg.&nbsp; He was fond of assisting in the
-service at the old church, carrying the cross in the procession,
-and doing divers duties &ldquo;like a parish clerk.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-One day the Duke of Norfolk, coming out to dine with him,
-&ldquo;fortuned to finde him in the quier with a surplisse on his
-backe, singinge:&rdquo; at the sight of which servile service,
-the good worldly duke was moved to wrathful remonstrance.</p>
-<p>All this rigidity in religion was but the natural stand of a
-strong character against the drift of the times and <a
-name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>the current
-that was carrying crowds down with the king; and it narrowed none
-in the least this man&rsquo;s broad spirit, nor touched for the
-worse his quaint, gentle humour, his fine wit, his sweet and
-wholesome nature.&nbsp; It was he who had said, in better
-balanced days:&mdash;&ldquo;A man may live for the next world,
-yet be merry withal:&rdquo; his was the dainty description of
-Jane Shore in her youth:&mdash;&ldquo;Proper she was and fair;
-nothing in hir body that you would have changed, but if you would
-have wished hir somewhat higher;&rdquo; and his that pitiful
-picture of her old age and misery.&nbsp; It was of him that
-Erasmus wrote these beautiful words: &ldquo;There was not any man
-living who was so affectionate to his children as he; and he
-loveth his old wife as well as if she were a young
-maid.&rdquo;&nbsp; Nor was she only &ldquo;old,&rdquo; but, in
-the words of More&rsquo;s grandson, &ldquo;of good yeares, of no
-good favour nor complexion, nor very rich; her disposition very
-near and worldly.&rdquo;&nbsp; Moreover, she was his second wife;
-and to her&mdash;selfish, grasping, hard, nagging&mdash;this man
-grandly gave unswerving devotion to the very last.&nbsp; His was,
-indeed, an ideal household into which I like to look; all <a
-name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>dwelling
-together in affectionate amity; father, mother, the son and his
-wife, the three daughters&mdash;&ldquo;the
-Moric&aelig;&rdquo;&mdash;and their husbands, with all the
-grandchildren; and the orphan girl, Margery Giggs, adopted as a
-daughter by More, &ldquo;and as dear to him as if she were his
-own.&rdquo;&nbsp; There is work for all, and &ldquo;no wrangling,
-no idle word was heard; no one was idle,&rdquo; Erasmus tells
-us.&nbsp; All the female folk study too&mdash;a rare thing then,
-for More was centuries ahead of his time in his larger views of
-woman&rsquo;s education, as he&mdash;the greatest minister of
-Humanism&mdash;was in political and in mightier matters.&nbsp;
-Pithily he put it: &ldquo;It mattereth not, in harvest time,
-whether the corn were sown by a man or a woman.&rdquo;&nbsp; At
-his table&mdash;his dining-hour was doubtless late, for he urges
-this boon among the other wise innovations of his
-&ldquo;Utopia&rdquo;&mdash;met the &ldquo;best society&rdquo; of
-England, and famous foreign guests.&nbsp; Perhaps it was here
-that Erasmus sat, greatest of scholars and divines, himself
-easily first of all that notable band; admiring, as he owns,
-Grocyn&rsquo;s vast range of knowledge, and Linacre&rsquo;s
-subtle, deep, fine judgment; seeming to hear Plato speak, as he
-listens to Colet&mdash;him who founded St. Paul&rsquo;s
-School&mdash;<a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-42</span>and wondering &ldquo;did nature ever frame a disposition
-more gentle, more sweet, more happy,&rdquo; than that of his
-host!</p>
-<p>From this home, More was taken to a prison, by his good
-King.&nbsp; He had refused, by countenancing Henry&rsquo;s
-divorce, to debase himself and his great office, and had stepped
-down from it on May 16, 1533, with even greater joy than he had
-stepped up to it on Wolsey&rsquo;s disgrace, four years
-previously.&nbsp; So he retired to this Chelsea mansion with but
-one hundred pounds a year income left to him; after so many years
-of high and of lucrative office.&nbsp; Here he bothered no more
-about public concerns, but busied himself with the welfare of his
-household, preparing his family and himself for the end which he
-saw coming.&nbsp; It came soon enough; and when he refused to
-violate his conscience by acknowledging Henry&rsquo;s supremacy
-over that of the Pope as the head of the Church, and by taking
-the oath of succession (under which Anne Boleyn&rsquo;s children
-were to be acknowledged the lawful heirs to the crown), he was
-carried down the river to the Tower; and there imprisoned for a
-whole year, in the very cell, it is said, <a
-name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>wherein he
-had sat as grand inquisitor, aforetime racking heretics.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Very nigh Heaven,&rdquo; he said it was, looking up
-contentedly from this narrow tenement.&nbsp; At nine
-o&rsquo;clock of the morning of July 16, 1535, he was led to the
-block on Tower Hill and there beheaded.&nbsp; You may walk there
-and look on the place to-day: but lately found and fixed on,
-railed in and paved.&nbsp; His courage and his constancy had
-never once failed him, save as he was being brought back to his
-cell after his trial in Westminster Hall; when his favourite
-daughter, Margaret Roper, waiting among the crowd on Tower
-Wharf&mdash;learning his sentence by the token of the blade of
-the headsman&rsquo;s axe turned towards him&mdash;broke through
-the guards, and clung to his neck, kissing him and sobbing,
-&ldquo;Oh, my father!&rdquo; with no other words uttered.&nbsp;
-Then for a moment the father in him was unmanned, as he moaned,
-&ldquo;My Meg!&rdquo; and kissed her for the last time.&nbsp; On
-the morning of his execution he was cheerful and even jocular:
-&ldquo;I pray you, master Lieutenant,&rdquo; said he at the
-scaffold-steps, &ldquo;see me safe up, and for my coming down I
-can shift for myself.&rdquo;&nbsp; He put aside his beard <a
-name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>out of the
-axe&rsquo;s reach&mdash;&ldquo;for <i>it</i> has never committed
-treason&rdquo;&mdash;and so laid his reverend head on the block;
-too noble a head to drop in so worthless a cause.</p>
-<p>&ldquo;A dauntless soul erect, who smiled at death,&rdquo; is
-Thomson&rsquo;s fitting phrase.&nbsp; And Erasmus wrote:
-&ldquo;All lament his death as the loss of their own father or
-brother.&nbsp; I myself have seen tears come from those men who
-never saw More. . . .&nbsp; How many souls hath that axe wounded
-which cut off More&rsquo;s head!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Where they buried his body has always been matter of
-conjecture.&nbsp; In a record, printed in 1726, his
-great-grandson says: &ldquo;His trunke was interred in Chelsey
-Church, near the middle of the south wall;&rdquo; but other
-records tell us that it was inhumed beneath the Tower Chapel; and
-it seems certain that no one will ever really know the truth
-about this.&nbsp; We do know, however, that his head was exposed
-on a spike above London Bridge, &ldquo;where as traytors&rsquo;
-heads are sett upon poles; having remained some moneths there,
-being to be cast into the Thames, because roome should be made
-for diverse others, who in plentiful sorte suffered <a
-name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>martyrdome
-for the same supremacie.&rdquo;&nbsp; It was taken away by
-Margaret Roper, by bribery or stealth; &ldquo;least&mdash;as she
-stoutly affirmed before the Councell, being called before them
-for the same matter&mdash;it should be foode for fishes; which
-she buried where she thought fittest.&rdquo;&nbsp; This spot was
-found&mdash;in 1835, after just three centuries of doubt&mdash;to
-be in the vault of the Roper family in St. Dunstan&rsquo;s
-Church, Canterbury: and there his head remains to-day &ldquo;in a
-leaden box something in the shape of a bee-hive, open in the
-front, and with an iron grating before it.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In my visits to Canterbury, as I stroll down its delightful
-old street to St. Dunstan&rsquo;s, I pause always in front of the
-ancient carved stone gateway&mdash;all that is left of the Roper
-mansion&mdash;fancying I see that devoted daughter hurrying home,
-secretly and by night, carrying her beloved burden in a silver
-casket: carrying it all the way in her own hands, fearful of
-entrusting it to those of any other.&nbsp; Most lovable as well
-as most learned among women&mdash;&ldquo;her humility equal to
-her learning,&rdquo; &ldquo;no woman, that could speak so well,
-did speak so little,&rdquo; says old Fuller in his
-&ldquo;Worthies&rdquo;&mdash;<a name="page46"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 46</span>Margaret Roper holds her high place
-among the Fair Women of England, and her story is very near the
-first in the Legend of Good Women.</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Morn broadened on the borders of the
-dark,<br />
-Ere I saw her, who clasped in the last trance<br />
-Her murder&rsquo;d father&rsquo;s head.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>And, amid all the thronging shadows which people
-Chelsea&rsquo;s shore, there walks no more vivid personality than
-his, as it moves before us through all his characteristic career;
-from the day he was taken from his school in Threadneedle Street,
-and made page-boy to Cardinal Morten, who said of him, seeing
-already his promise of wit and of worth: &ldquo;This child here,
-waiting at table, whosoever shall live to see it, will prove a
-marvellous man;&rdquo; then to Oxford on his scanty allowance;
-thence to New Inn and to Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, studying law by his
-father&rsquo;s desire, albeit longing himself for the pulpit;
-then law-reader of Furnivall&rsquo;s Inn, whence he was called to
-the bar at the age of twenty-one, and so going to live
-&ldquo;religiously yet without vow&rdquo; in the Charter-House;
-lecturing in St. Lawrence, <a name="page47"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 47</span>Old Jewry, on Augustine&rsquo;s
-&ldquo;City of God,&rdquo; listened to by &ldquo;all the chief
-learned of London&rdquo;; patiently practising his profession,
-taking &ldquo;no fee of Widow, Orphane, or poor person&rdquo;;
-becoming famous, near and far, for his capacity, learning,
-integrity; and thus elected to the House of Commons when only
-twenty-three, and soon made Speaker; rapidly rising to the
-highest place in the realm, that of Lord High Chancellor; and
-then, as he passed daily to his seat on the woolsack, stopping
-always before his aged father, who sat, as judge of the court of
-the King&rsquo;s Bench, in William Rufus&rsquo;s Hall at
-Westminster, and &ldquo;reverently kneeling down in the sight of
-all, ask his blessing.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In the gallery of Old Masters at Brussels, I found lately,
-after long searching, a diminutive dark canvas set in a black
-frame, with a small gilt column on each side; its tiny tablet
-bears the inscription: &ldquo;Holbein le jeune,
-1497&ndash;1543.&nbsp; Thomas Morus.&rdquo;&nbsp; This most
-attractive painting shows a table on which lies a small dog,
-peering at his master who sits behind; in More&rsquo;s right
-hand, one finger between the leaves, he holds a book; his left
-hand grips his dark gown at the neck; <a name="page48"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 48</span>a flat cap is on his head; a short
-curling beard, steadfast honest eyes, a plain, resolute, shrewd,
-strong face:&mdash;this is the man &ldquo;in his habit as he
-lived&rdquo; in the later years of his good life.</p>
-<p>This portrait&mdash;as well as the more famous group of More
-and his family, now in Nostell Priory&mdash;was painted by Hans
-Holbein, <a name="citation48"></a><a href="#footnote48"
-class="citation">[48]</a> while he was living with More.&nbsp; He
-had grown tired of his dissipated life in Basle and of his wife,
-and had come to England with a letter of introduction to More,
-from Erasmus, whose portrait Holbein had just finished in Basle;
-and More was so pleased with the man that he gave him a home with
-himself.&nbsp; Here were passed three of the happiest years of
-the great painter&rsquo;s life, during which he did much good
-work.&nbsp; Some of this was shown to the king on one of his
-visits, More having hung several of the portraits in a fine light
-for that purpose; and they so charmed the delicate-minded monarch
-that he asked, <a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-49</span>&ldquo;if such an artist were still alive, and to be had
-for money?&rdquo;&nbsp; So it came to pass that Holbein, on
-losing his good friend, entered the king&rsquo;s service, and
-there remained until his own death.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>After More&rsquo;s execution, and the confiscation of his
-property&mdash;which is a tautological way of speaking of any of
-Henry&rsquo;s murders&mdash;the house passed through many hands,
-noble and base, clean and dirty; and while everything is of
-interest concerning walls which, in Cicero&rsquo;s words,
-&ldquo;could give such good reason for their fame,&rdquo; it
-would be but dry detail to follow their forlorn fortunes
-fully.&nbsp; Of the noblemen and courtiers who dwelt here, few
-are worthy our notice: but I may mention that as early as 1586
-Lord and Lady Dacre had bought the house and estate; and here her
-brother, Thomas Sackville, often visited her, and from here many
-of his letters are dated.&nbsp; Here he may have written his
-&ldquo;Gorbudic,&rdquo; the first English Tragedy.&nbsp; It was
-Sackville who was sent to tell Queen Mary of Scots that her
-sentence was signed, and he it was who saw it executed.&nbsp; <a
-name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>Lady Dacre,
-surviving her husband, willed the place to the great Lord
-Burleigh; and so it came to his son, Lord Robert Cecil,
-afterwards Earl of Salisbury.&nbsp; He rebuilt the house and
-improved the place in 1619, so that even then it was &ldquo;the
-greatest house in Chelsey.&rdquo;&nbsp; So great that, later,
-James I. found it just the place he wanted for his favourite
-&ldquo;dear Steenie,&rdquo; first Duke of Buckingham; giving its
-owner, then Craufield, Earl of Middlesex, snug lodgings in the
-Tower, in exchange.&nbsp; Charles I., as deeply infatuated with
-the Duke as his royal father had been, gave the estate out and
-out to him, in 1627; and his it remained until the Commonwealth
-seized on it.</p>
-<p>His son, George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham&mdash;a
-man worthy of, and worse even than his sire&mdash;regained the
-property by his shifty marriage with the daughter of Fairfax, and
-it was confirmed to him on the Restoration; but in 1664 it was
-sold, along with all the other estates of this poor and
-profligate scoundrel&mdash;the last and the lowest of the
-Villiers.&nbsp; He was the Zimri of Dryden&rsquo;s &ldquo;Absalom
-and Achitophel&rdquo;:</p>
-<blockquote><p><a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-51</span>. . . &ldquo;everything by starts and nothing long;<br
-/>
-But, in the course of one revolving moon,<br />
-Was Chymist, Fidler, Statesman, and Buffoon.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">* * * *</p>
-<p>Beggar&rsquo;d by fools, when still he found too late<br />
-He had his jest and they had his estate.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>And Pope tells us, in his stinging verse, how &ldquo;this lord
-of useless thousands ends&rdquo; his ignoble life, deserted and
-despised:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;In the worst inn&rsquo;s worst room, with
-mat half hung,<br />
-The floor of plaister and the walls of dung,<br />
-On once a flock bed, but repair&rsquo;d with straw,<br />
-With tape-tied curtains, never meant to draw;<br />
-The George and Garter dangling from that bed<br />
-Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red;<br />
-Great Villiers lies!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>It was the Earl of Bristol who bought the place from
-Buckingham, and it is at this time that we meet with a notice of
-it in Evelyn&rsquo;s diary under the date 15th January,
-1678&ndash;9: &ldquo;Went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey and
-dined with the Countesse of Bristol in the greate house, formerly
-the Duke of Buckingham&rsquo;s, a spacious and excellent place,
-for the extent of ground <a name="page52"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 52</span>and situation in good aire.&nbsp; The
-house is large but ill-contrived.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In 1682 the Marquis of Worcester, afterwards Duke of Beaufort,
-became the owner of the mansion; and from him it was named
-Beaufort House, thereafter always called so.&nbsp; He selected
-this place that he might live, says Strype, &ldquo;in an air he
-thought much healthier, and near enough to the town for
-business.&rdquo;&nbsp; In 1738 Sir Hans Sloane bought the house
-and soon after pulled it down; giving the famous Inigo
-Jones-gateway to the Earl of Burlington, who removed it to
-Chiswick, where it stands to-day in the gardens of the Duke of
-Devonshire&rsquo;s Chiswick House, not far from the statue of the
-architect.&nbsp; It was on meeting its disjointed stones, as they
-were being carted away, that Alexander Pope wrote the well-known
-lines:</p>
-<blockquote><p><i>Passenger</i>: &ldquo;O Gate, how com&rsquo;st
-thou here?&rdquo;</p>
-<p><i>Gate</i>: &ldquo;I was brought from Chelsea last year,<br
-/>
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Batter&rsquo;d with wind and weather;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Inigo Jones put me together;<br />
-Sir Hans Sloane<br />
-Let me alone;<br />
-&nbsp;&nbsp; Burlington brought me hither.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>Do not
-think, however, that this gateway is the only relic of
-More&rsquo;s mansion; for the persevering prowler may find still
-another, well worth the search.&nbsp; Where King&rsquo;s Road
-curves about to Millman&rsquo;s Street&mdash;known on the old
-maps of those days as the Lovers&rsquo; Walk, &ldquo;A Way to
-Little Chelsea&rdquo;&mdash;an ancient gateway gave entrance to
-More&rsquo;s back garden and stables, and through it we may now
-pass into the Moravian Burial Ground.&nbsp; Here, in the
-peacefullest spot in all London, lie in rows, men and women on
-opposite sides, our Moravian brothers and sisters,
-&ldquo;departed,&rdquo; as their little headstones, in their
-touching simplicity, tell us.&nbsp; Grass grows above them, great
-trees guard them; trees perhaps planted by More himself.&nbsp;
-For this was part of the &ldquo;very fine gardens&rdquo; which
-Bowack speaks of; and that massive wall at the farther end was
-built in the century which saw the Armada.&nbsp; In among the
-gardens of the houses beyond, may be found other bits of wall;
-all built of very narrow bricks, such as we trace in More&rsquo;s
-chapel in Chelsea Old Church; bricks made only then, peculiar to
-that period, not seen since.&nbsp; This largest piece we are
-looking at is still solid enough, <a name="page54"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 54</span>though bulging here and there with
-its weight of over three hundred years, its bricks black with age
-and smoke; here are the traces of beams once set in it, here is a
-bit of an archway, there the remains of a fireplace.&nbsp; Thomas
-More&rsquo;s arm rested on this wall: it is part of him, and he
-mutely bequeaths it to our care.&nbsp; It is well that we should
-claim salvage for this bit of wreckage thrown upon the beach of
-Time, with his mark upon it.</p>
-<p>The little brick cottage of the keeper of the graveyard is
-overrun with vines, and answers to the assurance of the antiquity
-of all within the enclosure.&nbsp; The long low building of one
-room formerly serving as the Moravian Chapel is now used for a
-Sunday School.&nbsp; As I glance through the windows in this
-Sunday sunset I see boys wriggling on board benches, struggling
-with big Bible names, and mad for the fresh air and the freedom
-outside; one belated boy, trying at the locked gate, does not
-look unhappy at being refused entrance.&nbsp; There are memorial
-tablets on the chapel walls; one of them bears the name of
-&ldquo;Christian Renatus, Count of Zinzendorf&rdquo;; another
-that of <a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-57</span>&ldquo;Maria Justina, Countess Reuss.&rdquo;&nbsp; These
-were the son and daughter of the great Zinzendorf; and to tell
-how these came here I must give you the story of another great
-Chelsea mansion, Lindsey House. <a name="citation57"></a><a
-href="#footnote57" class="citation">[57]</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image56" href="images/p56b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Houses at Chelsea"
-title=
-"The Houses at Chelsea"
- src="images/p56s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>It still stands slightly slant-wise to the river road, just
-west of the quaint group of houses on the corner of Cheyne Walk
-and Beaufort Street.&nbsp; Its front has been stuccoed, and it
-has been otherwise modernized; but it has not been entirely
-robbed of its old-fashioned stateliness.&nbsp; The five separate
-dwellings into which it <a name="page58"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 58</span>was long ago divided have harboured
-some famous tenants; Martin the painter lived in that one which
-still inherits the old name, &ldquo;Lindsey House.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Here, too, lived Brunel, the great engineer; Bramah, famous for
-his locks, in another.&nbsp; It was the Earl of Lindsey, who,
-about 1674, built this grand new mansion on the site of a former
-house: between Beaufort House, you see, and the river.&nbsp; It
-remained in his family until 1750, when it was bought by Count
-Zinzendorf as a residence for himself and the Moravian Brethren
-of whom he was the head: and at the same time he bought from Sir
-Hans Sloane the stables of More&rsquo;s mansion to be used as a
-chapel, and his garden for a graveyard.&nbsp; Zinzendorf was a
-man of a rare nature, lifted above all that is petty and paltry
-in ordinary life: a spiritual knight, he had founded in his
-youth, at Halle, a sort of knighthood, &ldquo;The Slaves of
-Virtue&rdquo; and also the &ldquo;Order of the Grain of Mustard
-Seed;&rdquo; teaching his disciples there, teaching the Dutchmen
-in Holland, and the negroes in Pennsylvania, <a
-name="citation58"></a><a href="#footnote58"
-class="citation">[58]</a> later&mdash;<a name="page61"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 61</span>teaching and preaching all his
-life&mdash;the brotherhood of man, the essential unity of all
-forms of religion.&nbsp; A true Catholic, his aim in life was to
-unite all sects.&nbsp; As head and guardian of his little body of
-Herrnhuters, he had used his own fortune to buy 100,000 acres of
-land in North Carolina, from Lord Granville, in 1749; and in the
-following year he bought this property at Chelsea.&nbsp; But no
-part of it now belongs to the Moravians, except this
-burial-ground; still in use, as we have seen, having been
-exempted by special provision from the Act of 1855, which closed
-the other intramural graveyards of London, by reason of this one
-burying but one body in each grave, and that so deeply.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image59" href="images/p59b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Lindsey House and Battersea Bridge"
-title=
-"Lindsey House and Battersea Bridge"
- src="images/p59s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The name of Pennsylvania just mentioned comes to us again as
-we walk a little further west; for its famous <a
-name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>founder,
-William Penn, is oddly enough associated with the notorious
-Cremorne Gardens, which lay just here.&nbsp; The very name of
-this haunt of feasting and flirting by a peculiar irony was
-derived from the Viscount Cremorne, its former owner, &ldquo;this
-most excellent man,&rdquo; known, even when plain Thomas Dawson,
-before his peerage, as a model of all that was steady and
-sedate.&nbsp; His second wife, the great-granddaughter of William
-Penn, was named Philadelphia, from the city of her birth&mdash;a
-good woman, whose character, her funeral sermon assures us,
-&ldquo;it was difficult to delineate.&rdquo;&nbsp; She, becoming
-Lady Cremorne, and outliving her husband, inherited this charming
-villa and grounds, called Chelsea Farm; and left it at her death,
-in 1825, to her nephew, Granville Penn, &ldquo;one of the
-Hereditary Governors and Proprietaries of the late Province of
-Pennsylvania.&rdquo;&nbsp; He soon sold it, and it became a den
-of drinking, dancing, devilry.&nbsp; The ancient gilded barge,
-&ldquo;The Folly,&rdquo; moored on its river front, was once more
-the scene of just such orgies as it had known in its youth,
-during the roystering days of the Restoration.</p>
-<p>Past the prim and proper brick cottages, past the innocent <a
-name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>nursery
-garden, which cover wicked old Cremorne: through new streets and
-crescents built on the site of the famous Ashburnham
-estate&mdash;where, in old days, stretched the great gardens of
-the learned Dr. Cadogan, filled with rarest medicinal plants: out
-beyond the high brick wall, massive with reserve and
-respectability, behind which hides old Stanley House&mdash;built
-by Sir Arthur Gorges, who was embalmed in his friend
-Spenser&rsquo;s verse as Alcyon, for his talents and his conjugal
-affection, and who was here visited once by Queen Elizabeth; her
-thrifty-minded majesty accepting, as was her wont, the customary
-gift of greeting, &ldquo;a faire jewell,&rdquo; from her
-host:&mdash;so we come to the westernmost edge of Chelsea.&nbsp;
-Here, standing on the little bridge which carries King&rsquo;s
-Road across the deep railway cutting into Sand&rsquo;s End,
-Fulham, we look over to an old plaster-fronted house, once known
-as Sandford Manor House.&nbsp; This was one of the many
-residences of Mistress Eleanor Gwynne; and in it, a hundred years
-after her, lived Joseph Addison.&nbsp; It has been newly
-plastered, the sloping roof raised a little, and the wings long
-since torn down; but <a name="page64"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 64</span>it has been very slightly modernized
-otherwise; and Mr. McMinn, its occupant, with rare and real
-reverence has preserved its antique features; all the more marked
-by their contrast with the great modern gasometers beyond.&nbsp;
-Within, its square hall retains the old wainscotting, and the
-staircase remains as when Charles II. rode up it on his pony, for
-a freak.&nbsp; The delightful little back garden is perhaps
-hardly altered since those days, except that the four walnut
-trees <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-65</span>which Charles is said to have planted in the front
-garden have gone to decay and have recently been uprooted.&nbsp;
-At its foot, where now the railway cuts through, once ran
-&ldquo;the creek with barges gliding deep, beside the long
-grass,&rdquo; on the banks of which Addison went bird-nesting, in
-search of eggs for the young Earl of Warwick.&nbsp; This was when
-he was thinking of marrying the lad&rsquo;s mother, and the
-letters&mdash;still in existence&mdash;which he wrote from here
-to the little ten-year-old earl, are as genuine and charming as
-anything which ever came from his pen.&nbsp; One of them begins:
-&ldquo;The business of this is to invite you to a concert of
-music, which I have found out in the neighbouring
-wood.&rdquo;&nbsp; I wish space allowed me to quote more of these
-letters.&nbsp; Although they are dated simply at Sand&rsquo;s
-End, none other than Sandford House has ever stood which can make
-entirely good the descriptions of that country retreat,
-&ldquo;whereto Mr. Addison often retires in summer.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-What would one not give to have been invited out there, on such
-an evening as Thackeray tells us of?</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;When the time came to leave, Esmond marched
-<a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>homeward
-to his lodgings, and met Mr. Addison on the road, walking to a
-cottage which he had at Fulham, the moon shining on his handsome
-serene face.&nbsp; &lsquo;What cheer, brother?&rsquo; says
-Addison, laughing: &lsquo;I thought it was a foot-pad advancing
-in the dark, and behold, it is an old friend.&nbsp; We may shake
-hands, Colonel, in the dark; &rsquo;tis better than fighting by
-daylight.&nbsp; Why should we quarrel because thou art a Whig and
-I am a Tory?&nbsp; Turn thy steps and walk with me to Fulham,
-where there is a nightingale still singing in the garden, and a
-cool bottle in a cave I know of.&nbsp; You shall drink to the
-Pretender, if you like.&nbsp; I will drink my liquor in my own
-way.&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p64b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Sandford Manor House, Sand&rsquo;s End"
-title=
-"Sandford Manor House, Sand&rsquo;s End"
- src="images/p64s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>On the corner of the little turning which leads to this house
-there stands a tavern called &ldquo;The Nell Gwynne;&rdquo; this,
-at the extreme western end of the parish, is matched by another
-of the same name on its easternmost edge; and between these two
-public-houses we may track many other footprints of this fair
-lady, &ldquo;with whom, for all her frailties, the English <a
-name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>people can
-never be angry,&rdquo; as Peter Cunningham well says.&nbsp; She
-has left her trace on Chelsea, as she left it in her time on the
-light-minded monarch: both shown even yet in Chelsea Hospital,
-according to that tradition and popular belief which credit her
-with its founding.&nbsp; To this day the old pensioners worship
-her as their patron saint!&nbsp; It is true that Louis XIV. had
-probably given the notion to the English King by his foundation a
-few years before of the <i>Invalides</i> as a retreat for French
-veterans; it is true that as early as 1666 Evelyn had sent to
-Pepys, as Clerk of the Admiralty, a scheme for an Infirmary for
-Disabled English Sailors.&nbsp; In his diary, January 27,
-1681&ndash;82, Evelyn says: &ldquo;This evening Sir Stephen Fox
-acquainted me again with his Majesty&rsquo;s resolution of
-proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital for emerited
-soldiers;&rdquo; and it is a matter of record that Sir Stephen
-Fox, first Paymaster-General of the Forces, was the potent factor
-in the founding.&nbsp; This may well be, but it is at least
-plausible, and certainly pleasant, to believe that this
-good-hearted woman, by a judicious and timely movement, brought
-about a sudden solution <a name="page68"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 68</span>of the question, which had been only
-in suspension in the King&rsquo;s mind.&nbsp; The general
-destitution of the discharged soldiers after the Restoration had
-become a scandal to the King and to the country.&nbsp; In olden
-times such men had found bread and ale and a night&rsquo;s rest
-in monastic houses; but all this had been done away with by the
-Dissolution.&nbsp; Now, the poor old fellows, who have known
-nothing all their lives but wars and camps, wander about, lame,
-hungry, helpless, in these dismal times of peace.&nbsp; Even when
-able to work, there is no work for them.&nbsp; Old John Hill,
-serving in the ranks all his life, and now turned adrift to carry
-the weight of eighty-two years, succeeds after long suing in
-being appointed to the poor post of beadsman at Gloucester, only
-to find that the King had just given it to another old soldier,
-and had forgotten it.&nbsp; So it was all over the kingdom.&nbsp;
-Nell Gwynne, seeing daily these warriors hobbling
-about,&mdash;the younger ones wounded for her lover at Dunbar and
-Worcester, the elder ones for her lover&rsquo;s father at Naseby
-and Marston Moor,&mdash;was touched by the sight: she had been
-poor herself, yet strangely enough in her <a
-name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>prosperity
-she was always prone to pity poverty.&nbsp; They say that one
-day, a shabby soldier just escaped from Tangiers&mdash;probably
-an impostor&mdash;begged at her carriage door; and she drove
-home, and urged the King to do something for these disabled
-servants of the State.&nbsp; And they say, too, that the shifty
-monarch, in giving the land for the hospital, made a pretty good
-thing of it for himself!</p>
-<p>There had been already a building on the ground, then nearly
-in ruins, the foundation walls of which may still be seen in the
-cellar of the chaplain&rsquo;s house.&nbsp; This was King
-James&rsquo;s aborted College for polemic divinity&mdash;&ldquo;A
-Colledge of Divines and other Learned Men at
-Chelsey&rdquo;&mdash;nicknamed &ldquo;Controversy College,&rdquo;
-and intended to be &ldquo;a spiritual garrison, with a magazine
-of all books.&rdquo;&nbsp; It was a failure.&nbsp; Nobody would
-subscribe, for every man was giving his money, at this time, to
-repair St. Paul&rsquo;s, and to help Sir Hugh Myddleton bring the
-New River into London; and only one-eighth of the plan was ever
-carried out.&nbsp; The Royal Society used the building for a
-while; in one of its out-houses Prince Rupert invented the drops,
-which, <a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>in
-Macaulay&rsquo;s words, &ldquo;have long amused children and
-puzzled philosophers&rdquo;; and by which, absurdly enough, his
-name is still kept alive; albeit his is a memorable figure,
-gallant in battle, ardent in love, devoted in science.&nbsp; When
-he laid down the rapier for the retort, the broadsword for the
-blowpipe, he pursued chemistry even as he had pursued the flying
-Roundheads at Edge Hill, with equal ardour here on the quiet
-shore at Chelsea, far from the court and the crowd.&nbsp; Later,
-the buildings, falling to pieces, were used even in 1653, along
-with barges moored on the river front, as a prison for the Dutch
-taken in the war.&nbsp; Grave John Evelyn, one of the four
-Commissioners in control of all prisoners of war&mdash;he had
-rode with Rupert as a volunteer&mdash;comes to visit his charges
-on Ash Wednesday, 1665, and notes: &ldquo;They only complained
-that their bread was too fine!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>This was the site fixed on for the new infirmary; and in the
-<i>Monthly Recorder</i> of February 17, 1682, you may read:
-&ldquo;His Majesty went to Chelsey Colledge to lay the first
-stone, with several of the nobility, which is a place designed to
-be built and endowed by His <a name="page73"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 73</span>Majesty for the relief of Indigent
-Officers, and Incouragement to serve His Majesty.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-William and Mary finished the edifice; and it stands&mdash;an
-impressive monument of that union of proportion and of fitness by
-which Christopher Wren gave beauty to his plainest
-designs&mdash;in stately solidity in the midst of its thirty
-acres of ground.&nbsp; It is handsomely supported, not only by
-government aid, but by valuable donations.&nbsp; There are nearly
-eighty thousand out-pensioners and over five hundred inmates;
-these latter divided into companies, and doing mimic garrison
-duty in memory of their active days.&nbsp; Prints of their
-popular commanders hang all round the walls of the great hall
-west of the grand entrance, once a dining-room, now used for
-reading and smoking.&nbsp; In glass cases are the war medals left
-by veterans dying with no surviving relatives to claim them: on
-one we find nearly a dozen battles of the Peninsular campaigns;
-on another Badajos and Lucknow figure in curious conjunction; and
-rarest of all is one whose owner fought at Inkerman, Balaclava,
-and the Alma.&nbsp; In this hall the body of the great Duke lay
-in state amid the memorials of his victories, guarded <a
-name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>by his own
-veterans: successors of those other veterans exultant over the
-news of Waterloo, whom Wilkie had painted, years before, for the
-Duke himself.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image72" href="images/p72b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Chelsea Hospital, River Front"
-title=
-"Chelsea Hospital, River Front"
- src="images/p72s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Framed on the wall is a record of the battles, sieges, marches
-of the Coldstream Guards; which tells us that this famous body is
-the sole surviving representative of the force which placed
-Charles II. on the throne, and thus became the nucleus of the
-standing army of England.&nbsp; The corps had been formed in 1650
-by General George Monk, who made drafts of picked men from the
-various Cromwellian regiments, and led them on that famous march
-on the first day of the year 1660, from Coldstream to London,
-which saved the monarchy and gave the guard its historic
-name.&nbsp; In the chapel, beneath Sebastian Ricci&rsquo;s great
-altar-piece, and under the tattered battle-flags, drooping faded
-and forlorn, you may see, on any Sunday, Hubert Herkomer&rsquo;s
-picture in real life.&nbsp; It is a touching scene, this entry of
-the veterans into their chapel, preceded by their fife and drum:
-still more touching, the funeral of one of their dead, as they
-parade painfully from the infirmary, the lone drummer and fife
-playing the Dead March in <a name="page75"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 75</span>Saul.&nbsp; In the quiet old
-burying-ground hard by, they lie compactly enough, the dead
-soldiers; and among them, women who have fought and died in
-men&rsquo;s attire, their sex unsuspected until their death.</p>
-<p>Not only in this burial-ground, but in the quadrangles and
-courts, and everywhere about, there rests an air of repose, of
-forgetfulness of the turbulent world without.&nbsp; Here, about
-the spacious central quadrangle, on massive wooden benches, loaf
-and smoke and chat the contented old boys; and growl, withal, in
-their content.&nbsp; They decorate Grinling Gibbons&rsquo; bronze
-statue of Charles II., posing as a Roman in the centre, with oak
-garlands on &ldquo;Oak-Apple-Day,&rdquo; May 29th, the
-anniversary of the Restoration; on that day they wear oak
-branches in their caps, and eat much plum-pudding at
-dinner.&nbsp; Open towards the river, this quadrangle looks out
-on gracious gardens; just beyond is the great cross, set there to
-honour the victims of the Sepoy mutiny: &ldquo;Some died in
-battle, some of wounds, some of disease, <span
-class="smcap">All</span> in the devoted performance of
-Duty.&rdquo;&nbsp; A little farther out rises the obelisk
-commemorating those who fell on that dark <a
-name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>and doubtful
-day at Chillian-wallah, January 13th, 1849.&nbsp; As we stand
-here, beside a quiet Quaker cannon, these memorials to the
-devoted dead lift themselves directly in front; the terraced
-gardens slope to the river bank, their &ldquo;carpet-beds&rdquo;
-yellow with the tints of approaching autumn; the graceful towers
-and swaying chains of Chelsea Suspension Bridge seem floating in
-the air yonder; above the drooping limes and elms of the
-embankment the slim spars of lazy sloops slip slowly by; the
-gleaming river glides beneath, and away over beyond it the
-feathery masses of the trees of Battersea Park stand solidly
-against the sky.&nbsp; The opulent summer sun floods the scene,
-and an enchanting stillness broods above all, broken only by the
-rare rumble of trains on the farther railway-bridge.&nbsp; All
-things are half hid in the exquisite English haze: it softens
-every sharpness, harmonizes every harshness, rounds every shape
-to grace.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>The Old Soldiers have their own gardens near at hand, and as
-we stroll there we pass College Fields, <a
-name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>perpetuating
-the name of King James&rsquo;s College; and so on between double
-rows of lime trees, gnarled and bent, under which the amorous
-veterans flirt sedately with the demure nursemaids, whose
-neglected charges meanwhile play with the sheep.&nbsp; Through
-the gate we enter a small but well-arranged domain, divided into
-tiny squares; each planted by its owner in flowers or in
-vegetables as may suit him, so giving him a little more tobacco
-money by his sales.&nbsp; They seem fond of those plants which
-put themselves most in evidence; and their little gardens are all
-aglow with gorgeous hollyhocks, dahlias, sunflowers, of the most
-gigantic and highly coloured kinds.&nbsp; It is a delight to
-watch the old fellows of a summer afternoon, bending intent on
-their toil in shirt-sleeves; or stalking stiffly about in their
-long red coats, senilely chaffing and cackling!</p>
-<p>You will be pleased, I hope, to learn that this little piece
-of ground is called Ranelagh Gardens, and is the sole surviving
-remnant of that famous resort so dear to an older
-generation.&nbsp; &ldquo;The R:<sup>t</sup> Hon:<sup>ble</sup>
-Richard Earle of Ranelagh,&rdquo; as he is styled on the original
-&ldquo;Ground <a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-78</span>Plot of the Royal Hospital&rdquo; in the British Museum,
-being made one of the three commissioners appointed in the
-beginning to manage the young asylum, leases to himself seven
-acres of its grounds on the east, lying along the river, and
-there builds a grand mansion, in 1691; the gardens of which are
-&ldquo;curiously kept and elegantly designed: so esteemed the
-best in England.&rdquo;&nbsp; This first Earl of Ranelagh has
-been one of the pupils of a certain schoolmaster named John
-Milton, probably at his house in Barbican in the City, so
-recently torn down.&nbsp; The Earl becomes a famous man, in a
-different line from his teacher, and dying in 1712, leaves
-Ranelagh House and its gardens to his son; who sells the place in
-1733 to Lacy, Garrick&rsquo;s partner in the Drury Lane theatre
-patent; to be made by him a place of open-air amusement, after
-the manner of the favourite Vauxhall.&nbsp; But &ldquo;it has
-totally beat Vauxhall,&rdquo; writes Horace Walpole.&nbsp;
-&ldquo;Nobody goes anywhere else, everybody goes there.&nbsp; My
-Lord Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered
-all his letters to be directed thither.&rdquo;&nbsp; Of course,
-he has his sneer at the &ldquo;rival mobs&rdquo; of the two
-places; but he does not <a name="page79"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 79</span>disdain to show himself a very swell
-mob&rsquo;s man, in his famous carouse at Ranelagh, with Miss
-Ashe and Lady Caroline Petersham.&nbsp; His father, Sir Robert,
-was proud to parade here his lovely mistress, Miss Chudleigh;
-&ldquo;not over clothed,&rdquo; as Leigh Hunt delicately puts
-it.&nbsp; The manners and morals of this place and this time have
-never been so pithily presented as in George Selwyn&rsquo;s
-<i>mot</i>, on hearing that one of the waiters had been convicted
-of robbery: &ldquo;What a horrid idea he&rsquo;ll give of us to
-those fellows in Newgate!&rdquo;</p>
-<p>At this distance, however, the f&ecirc;tes, frolics,
-fire-works and all the fashionable frivolity of the place look
-bright and bewildering.&nbsp; Nor did grave and reverend men
-disdain to spend their evenings at Ranelagh&mdash;&ldquo;to give
-expansion and gay sensation to the mind,&rdquo; as staid old Dr.
-Johnson asserted!&nbsp; Goldsmith felt its gaiety, when he came
-here to forget the misery of his lodging in Green Arbour Court,
-where now stands the Holborn Viaduct station.&nbsp; Laurence
-Sterne, fresh to the town from his Yorkshire parsonage, finding
-himself in great vogue&mdash;his portrait much stared at, in
-Spring Gardens, one of the four sent there, selected by Sir
-Joshua as his <a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-80</span>choicest works&mdash;plunged forthwith into all sorts of
-frivolities, and was seen in Ranelagh more often than was
-considered seemly.&nbsp; Smollett sometimes emerged from out his
-Chelsea solitude for a sight of this festive world; Fielding came
-here to study the scenes for his &ldquo;Amelia&rdquo;; and
-Addison, too, who chats about the place in his <i>Spectator</i>.
-<a name="citation80"></a><a href="#footnote80"
-class="citation">[80]</a>&nbsp; It is spoken of in the
-<i>Connoisseur</i> and the <i>Citizen of the World</i>; the poet
-Bloomfield introduced it, and Fanny Burney placed here a scene in
-her &ldquo;Evelina.&rdquo;&nbsp; At this time&mdash;just one
-hundred years ago&mdash;she was a little past twenty-six, and was
-living with her father, Dr. Burney, recently made organist of the
-hospital chapel, next door.&nbsp; Ranelagh had then begun to
-&ldquo;decline and fall off,&rdquo; in Silas Wegg&rsquo;s
-immortal phrase: having been open since 1742, it was finally
-closed at the beginning of this century, its artificial <a
-name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>oil-moon
-paling before the rising radiance of gas-lighted new
-Cremorne.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>On an old tracing of the Hospital boundaries kept in its
-archives, I found this inscription: &ldquo;To answer the Earl of
-Ranelagh&rsquo;s house on the east side of the College, an house
-was builded in the Earl of Orford&rsquo;s garden on the west
-side.&rdquo;&nbsp; This was the house into which Sir Robert
-Walpole moved from his lodgings near by, where now Walpole Street
-runs; the same lodgings in which the Earl of Sandwich had lived
-long before.&nbsp; The Edward Montague, who, as Commander of the
-fleet, brought Charles II. back to England, was made Earl of
-Sandwich for this service, and in 1663 he came to live in
-Chelsea, &ldquo;to take the ayre.&rdquo;&nbsp; But there was a
-&ldquo;Mrs. Betty Becke,&rdquo; his landlady&rsquo;s daughter,
-who seems to have been the real reason for this retirement, and
-at whom the moral Pepys sneers as &ldquo;a slut.&rdquo;&nbsp; He
-writes under date of September 9, 1663: &ldquo;I am ashamed to
-see my lord so grossly play the fool, to the flinging off of all
-honour, friends, and servants, and everything and <a
-name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>person that
-is good, with his carrying her abroad, and playing on the lute
-under her window, and forty other poor sordid things, which I am
-grieved to hear.&rdquo;&nbsp; Having occasion to visit his chief
-here, on naval business, the Clerk of the Admiralty finds him
-&ldquo;all alone, with one joynte of meat, mightily extolling the
-manner of his retirement, and the goodness of his diet;&rdquo;
-and was so perturbed, and so loyal withal, as to dare to write
-him, &ldquo;that her wantonness occasioned much scandal, though
-unjustly, to his Lordship.&rdquo;&nbsp; Nor was his Lordship
-offended by this frankness, but remained friendly to his
-Secretary.</p>
-<p>Crossing through court and quadrangle and garden, to the
-western side of the Hospital, we are allowed to enter its
-infirmary, and to pass into ward No. 7.&nbsp; Here we stand in
-Sir Robert Walpole&rsquo;s dining-room, unchanged since he left
-it, except that the array of fine Italian pictures has gone from
-the walls, and that decrepid soldiers lie about on cots, coughing
-and drinking gruel from mugs.&nbsp; But for all this, perhaps by
-reason of all this, this room, with its heavily moulded ceiling,
-its stately marble mantle&mdash;in severe <a
-name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>white
-throughout&mdash;is one of the most impressive relics of by-gone
-grandeur in all London.&nbsp; The house, grand in its day, grand
-still in its mutilation, was built by Sir John Vanbrugh, whose
-architecture&mdash;florid and faulty, but with a dignity of its
-own, such as strikes one in his masterpiece, Blenheim, called by
-Thackeray &ldquo;a piece of splendid barbarism&rdquo;&mdash;was
-as heavy as his comedies were light; and served to bring on him
-Swift&rsquo;s epitaph:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Lie heavy on him earth, for he<br />
-Hath laid many a heavy load on thee.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>This one end&mdash;all that remains of the old red-brick
-mansion&mdash;has been raised a storey, but otherwise stands
-almost as when Walpole lived here from 1723 to 1746, and from its
-chambers ruled England through his subjects George I. and George
-II., whom he allowed to reign.&nbsp; It was from this room that
-he rushed out on the arrival of the express with the news of the
-death of the first George.&nbsp; He left his dinner-table at
-three p.m. on the 14th June, 1727, and took horse at
-once:&mdash;so riding that he &ldquo;killed two horses under
-him,&rdquo; <a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-84</span>says his son Horace:&mdash;and was the first to reach
-the Prince of Wales at Richmond with the news.&nbsp; To Walpole
-House used to drive, from her palace at Kensington, the wife of
-this same Prince of Wales; who, now become George II., cheered
-her solitude by writing to her long letters from his residence at
-Hanover, filled with praises of his latest lady-love.&nbsp; These
-epistles the fair-haired, blue-eyed, sweet-voiced woman would
-bring weeping to Walpole, in search of the comfort which he
-graciously gave, by assuring her that now that she was growing
-old she must expect this sort of thing!&nbsp; A little later
-Walpole drove from here to Kensington, and stood beside the King
-at her deathbed; Caroline commending to Walpole&rsquo;s
-protection her husband and his monarch!&nbsp; Here came
-Bolingbroke on his return from his exile in France, to dine at
-the invitation of his great rival, whom he hated and
-envied.&nbsp; It was not a joyful dinner for him, and Horace
-Walpole tells us that &ldquo;the first morsel he put into his
-mouth was near choking him, and he was reduced to rise from the
-table and leave the room for some minutes.&nbsp; I never heard of
-their meeting more.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here Swift used <a
-name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>to stride
-into dinner, studying his host for the <i>r&ocirc;le</i> of
-Flimnap in his &ldquo;Gulliver,&rdquo; which he was then
-writing.&nbsp; Here fat John Gay, then secretary or steward to
-Lady Monmouth, a little farther on in Chelsea, swaggered in his
-fine clothes, and being snubbed by his cynical host, put him on
-the stage as &ldquo;Macheath&rdquo; in his &ldquo;Beggar&rsquo;s
-Opera.&rdquo;&nbsp; Pope used to drive over in his little trap
-from Twickenham, before his friend Bolingbroke&rsquo;s return, to
-entertain Sir Robert with the details of his row about Lady Mary
-Wortley Montague with Lord Hervey; that be-rouged fop whom he
-pilloried in his rage, as</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;This painted child of dirt that stinks and
-stings.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The famous gardens, on which the gay and extravagant Lady
-Walpole spent her time and money, have been built over by the
-successive additions to the Infirmary; and we no longer can see
-the conservatory and grotto, without which in those days no
-garden was considered complete.&nbsp; The bit of ground left
-serves now for the convalescent soldiers, and the graceful tree
-in the centre, its branches growing horizontally out <a
-name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>from the top
-of the trunk, forms a natural arbour, which they mightily enjoy
-upon a sunny afternoon.&nbsp; Down at the lower end of the
-garden, a bit of rotting wooden fence set above a sunken wall
-marks the line of the river-bank as it ran before the building of
-the embankment.&nbsp; Just here, on a pleasant terrace and in its
-summer-house, that royal scamp, George IV., was fond of
-philandering with his fair friends; this scene suggesting a
-curious contrast with the group once surely sitting or strolling
-here&mdash;a group made up of no less august personages than
-Charles II. and the Earl of Sandwich with the Duchess of Mazarin,
-followed by &ldquo;her adoring old friend&rdquo; St.
-Evremond.&nbsp; For that lovely and luckless lady lived just
-across the road, outside these grounds; and to her house in
-Paradise Row I wish now to take you.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>All that is now left of old Paradise Row is half a dozen small
-brick cottages, with tiny gardens in front, and vines climbing
-above.&nbsp; Once, when all about here was country, these
-dwellings must have been really <a name="page87"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 87</span>delightful, and have justified the
-suggestion of their name, looking out as they did on pleasant
-parterres, terraced to the river.&nbsp; Unpretending as they are,
-they have harboured many historic personages.&nbsp; In Paradise
-Row&mdash;it is now partly Queen&rsquo;s Road West&mdash;lived
-the first Duke of St. Albans, Nell Gwynne&rsquo;s son, not far
-from the more modest mansion of his venerated grandmother, among
-the &ldquo;neat-houses&rdquo; at Millbank.&nbsp; Her garden
-sloped down to the river, and therein she fell one day, and was
-drowned; and they wrote a most woeful ballad &ldquo;Upon that
-never-to-be-forgotten matron, old Madame Gwynn, who died in her
-own fish-pond;&rdquo; and it would seem from these ribald rhymes
-that the lamented lady was fat and fond of brandy!&nbsp; This
-latter weakness is also the theme of Rochester&rsquo;s muse, in
-his &ldquo;Panegyric upon Nelly,&rdquo; when he commends her
-scorn of cost in the funeral rites&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&ldquo;To
-celebrate this martyr of the ditch.<br />
-Burnt Brandy did in flaming Brimmers flow,<br />
-Drunk at her Fun&rsquo;ral: while her well-pleased Shade<br />
-Rejoic&rsquo;d, e&rsquo;en in the sober Fields below,<br />
-At all the Drunkenness her Death had made!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>In old
-Paradise Row also lived the Earls of Pelham and of Sandwich, and
-the Duchess of Hamilton.&nbsp; At the corner of Robinson&rsquo;s
-Lane&mdash;now Flood Street&mdash;stood Lord Robarte&rsquo;s
-house, wherein he gave the famous supper to Charles II. on the
-4th of September, 1660, and was soon after made Earl of Radnor:
-whence the street of that name hard by.&nbsp; On April 19, 1665,
-Pepys visited him here, and &ldquo;found it to <a
-name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>be the
-prettiest contrived house that ever I saw in my
-life.&rdquo;&nbsp; It stood there until within a few weeks, a
-venerable tavern known as &ldquo;The Duke&rsquo;s Head&rdquo;:
-now gone the way of so much historic brick and mortar!&nbsp;
-Latest of all our Chelsea celebrities, Faulkner, the historian of
-Chelsea, lived on the corner of Paradise Row, and what was then
-Ormond Row, now commonplace Smith Street.&nbsp; A quiet, quaint
-old public-house, &ldquo;The Chelsea Pensioner,&rdquo; stands
-where Faulkner worked with such pains, on his driest of records;
-yet to them we are all glad to go for many of our facts about
-modern Chelsea.&nbsp; These poor little plaster-fronted cottages,
-stretching from this corner to Christchurch Street, now represent
-the once stately Ormond Row; and the swinging sign of the
-&ldquo;Ormond Dairy&rdquo; is all we have to commemorate old
-Ormond House, which stood just here.&nbsp; In its gardens,
-sloping to the river bank, Walpole&rsquo;s later house was built,
-as we have seen it to-day.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p88b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Paradise Row"
-title=
-"Paradise Row"
- src="images/p88s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Let us stop again before the little two-storied house, the
-easternmost of Paradise Row, standing discreetly back from the
-street behind a prim plot of <a name="page90"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 90</span>grass; well-wrought-iron gates are
-swung on square gate-posts, a-top of each of which is an
-old-fashioned stone globe, of the sort seldom seen
-nowadays.&nbsp; A queer little sounding-board projects over the
-small door; and above the little windows we read &ldquo;School of
-Discipline, Instituted <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>
-1825.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is the oldest school of the kind in London,
-was founded by Elizabeth Fry, and in it young girls, forty-two at
-a time, each staying two years, &ldquo;are reformed for five
-shillings a week,&rdquo; and fitted for domestic service.&nbsp;
-They wear very queer aprons, their hair is plastered properly,
-their shoes are clumsy; and no queerer contrast was ever imagined
-than that between them and the perfumed, curled, high-heeled
-dame, who once lived here.&nbsp; She is well worth looking back
-at, as we sit here in her low-ceilinged drawing-room, darkly
-panelled, as are hall and staircase by which we have passed in
-entering.</p>
-<p>Hortensia Mancini, the daughter of Cardinal Mazarin&rsquo;s
-sister, had been married while very young to some Duke, who was
-allowed to assume the name of Mazarin on his marriage.&nbsp; A
-religious fanatic, he <a name="page91"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 91</span>soon shut her up in a convent, from
-which she took her flight and found her way to England in
-boy&rsquo;s costume.&nbsp; There, as the handsomest woman in
-Europe, her coming caused commotion among her rivals, all
-remembering the flutter she had excited in Charles II. during his
-exile in France.&nbsp; Ruvigny <a name="citation91"></a><a
-href="#footnote91" class="citation">[91]</a> writes: &ldquo;She
-has entered the English court as Armida entered the camp of
-Godfrey.&rdquo;&nbsp; Indeed, this one soon showed that she, too,
-was a sorceress; and Rochester, in his famous
-&ldquo;Farewell,&rdquo; acclaims her the &ldquo;renowned
-Mazarine, first in the glorious Roll of Infamy.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Living luxuriously and lavishly for a while, until by the death
-of her royal lover she lost her pension of &pound;4000 yearly,
-she came at length to this little house as her last
-dwelling-place; and even here, reduced to real poverty, unable to
-pay her butcher or her baker, written down on the Parish books of
-1695, &ldquo;A Defaulter of the Parish Rates:&rdquo; she yet
-persisted in giving grand dinners&mdash;the cost of <a
-name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>which (so old
-Lysons heard) was met by each guest leaving monies under his
-napkin!&nbsp; For all that, this modest mansion was the favourite
-resort of famous men of her day; who lounged in of an evening to
-discuss and speculate, to play at her basset-tables, to listen to
-her music, mostly dramatic, the forerunner of Italian opera in
-this country.&nbsp; Here came Sydney Godolphin, that rare man who
-was &ldquo;never in the way, and yet never out of the way;&rdquo;
-here the king was frequently found; here Saint Evremond was
-always found!&nbsp; How real to us is the figure of this gallant
-old Frenchman, as we see him in the National Portrait Gallery:
-his white hair flowing below his black cap; his large forehead;
-his dark blue eyes; the great wen that grew in his later years
-between them, just at the top of his nose: a shrewd, kindly,
-epicurean face.&nbsp; He came of a noble Norman family from Denis
-le Guast, this Charles de Saint Denys, Seigneur de Saint
-Evremond.&nbsp; Entering the army at an early age, he rose
-rapidly to a captaincy; his bravery and his wit&mdash;a little
-less than that of Voltaire, whom he helped to form, says
-Hallam&mdash;making him <a name="page93"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 93</span>the friend of Turenne, of the great
-Cond&egrave;, and of others of that brilliant band.&nbsp;
-Satirizing Mazarin, he was locked in the Bastille for three
-months; and when free, he finally fled from the cardinal&rsquo;s
-fury, and came to England: here to end his days, waiting on this
-still fascinating woman, worshipping her, advising her, writing
-plays for her, and poetry to her.&nbsp; He held the rank of
-Governor of Duck Island, in the ornamental water of St.
-James&rsquo;s Park&mdash;an office invented for him by Charles
-II., and having a fine title, a large salary, and no
-duties.&nbsp; You may throw bread to-day to the lineal
-descendants of those ducks of which the King was so fond.&nbsp;
-Saint Evremond died in 1703, and lies in the Poet&rsquo;s Corner
-of Westminster Abbey, near to Chaucer and Beaumont and Dryden;
-his adored lady having died in 1699 in this very house.&nbsp; She
-was not buried; for after all these years of self-effacement her
-devoted husband again appears, has her body embalmed, and carries
-it with him wherever he journeys.</p>
-<p>Mary Astell lived and died in her little house in Paradise
-Row; a near neighbour of, and a curious <a
-name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 94</span>contrast to,
-the Duchess of Mazarin, whom she pointed at in her writings as a
-warning of the doom decreed to beauty and to wit, when shackled
-in slavery to Man, and so dis-weaponed in the fight against fate
-and forgetfulness.&nbsp; <i>She</i> devoted herself to celibacy
-and &ldquo;to the propagation of virtue,&rdquo; as Smollett slily
-put it.&nbsp; Congreve satirized her, too; Swift stained her with
-his sneers as &ldquo;Madonella;&rdquo; Addison and Steele made
-fun of her in their gentler way.&nbsp; Doubtless there was
-something of <i>la Pr&eacute;cieuse Ridicule</i> to that
-generation in the aspect of this most learned lady, who wrote
-pamphlets and essays; in which, following More&rsquo;s lead, she
-urged the higher education of her sex; and preached as well as
-practised persistent protests against the folly of those pretty
-women, &ldquo;who think more of their glasses than of their
-reflections.&rdquo;&nbsp; She inveighed much&mdash;this in our
-modern manner&mdash;against marriage, and woman&rsquo;s devotion
-to man; putting it with point and pith, that Woman owes a duty to
-Man &ldquo;only by the way, just as it may be any man&rsquo;s
-duty to keep hogs; he was not made for this, but if he hires <a
-name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>himself out
-for this employment, he is bound to perform it
-conscientiously.&rdquo;&nbsp; One good work of hers still
-survives.&nbsp; Failing to found among her female friends a
-College or Community for Celibacy and Study, she induced Lady
-Elizabeth Hastings&mdash;her immortalized as the Aspasia of the
-<i>Tatler</i> by Congreve and by Steele, and to whom the latter
-applied his exquisite words, &ldquo;to love her is a liberal
-education&rdquo;&mdash;and other noble ladies to endow in 1729 a
-school for the daughters of old pensioners of the Royal Hospital;
-and this little child&rsquo;s charity was the precursor and
-harbinger of the present grand asylum at Hampstead, which
-clothes, educates, and cares for these girls.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>It is but a step to the spacious, many-windowed brick building
-in the King&rsquo;s Road; on the pediment of which, in Cheltenham
-Terrace, we read: &ldquo;The Royal Military Asylum for the
-Children of Soldiers of the Regular Army.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is
-popularly known as the &ldquo;Duke of York&rsquo;s School,&rdquo;
-and is devoted to the <a name="page96"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 96</span>training of the orphan boys of poor
-soldiers.&nbsp; It is a pleasant sight to watch them going
-through their man&oelig;uvres in their gravel ground; or, off
-duty, playing football and leap-frog.&nbsp; They bear themselves
-right martially in their red jackets and queer caps, a few
-proudly carrying their corporal&rsquo;s yellow chevrons, a fewer
-still prouder of their &ldquo;good conduct stripes.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-It was &ldquo;B 65,&rdquo; big with the double dignity of both
-badges of honour, who unbent to my questioning; and explained
-that the lads are entered at the age of ten, can remain until
-fourteen, can then become drummers if fitted for that vocation,
-or can give up their army career and take their chances in
-civilians&rsquo; pursuits.</p>
-<p>We may not pause long before the iron gates which let us look
-in on the mansion named Blacklands; now a private mad-house, and
-the only remnant of the great estate once owned by Lord Cheyne,
-and which covered more than the extent of Sloane Street and
-Square, Cadogan and Hans Place: all these laid out and built by
-Holland in 1777, and by him called Hans Town.&nbsp; We might have
-stopped, a while ago, in front of the vast Chelsea barracks, just
-to the <a name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-97</span>south, to look at the faded plaster-fronted shop,
-opposite.&nbsp; &ldquo;The Old Chelsea Bun-House,&rdquo; its sign
-assured us it was, before its demolition last year; yet it was
-only the descendant of the original house, which stood a little
-farther east up Pimlico Road, formerly Jews&rsquo; Road.&nbsp;
-That once mal-odorous street is yet fragrant with the buns baked
-there in the last century, when the little shop was crowded with
-dainty damsels in hoops and furbelows, with gallants in wigs and
-three-cornered hats, while stately flunkies strode in the street
-below.&nbsp; &ldquo;Pray, are not the fine buns sold here in our
-town as the rare Chelsea buns?&nbsp; I bought one to-day in my
-walk&rdquo;&mdash;Swift tells Stella in his journal for
-1712.&nbsp; Half-mad George III. and Queen Charlotte&mdash;she
-popularly known as &ldquo;Old Snuffy&rdquo;&mdash;were fond of
-driving out to Chelsea Bun-House, to sit on its verandah munching
-buns, much stared at by the curious crowd.&nbsp; The old building
-was torn down in 1839, &ldquo;to the general regret in London and
-its environs,&rdquo; its crazy collection of poor pictures, bogus
-antiques, and genuine Chelsea ware being sold by auction; all of
-which is duly chronicled in &ldquo;The <a name="page98"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 98</span>Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and
-Instruction&rdquo; of April 6, 1839.</p>
-<p>Turning back again to Paradise Row, we glance across the road
-at a great square mansion standing in spacious grounds, used as
-the Victoria Hospital for Children, a beneficent
-institution.&nbsp; This is Gough House, built by that profane
-Earl of Carberry, who diced and drank and dallied in company with
-Buckingham and Rochester and Sedley.&nbsp; Early in the last
-century it came into possession of Sir John Gough, whence the
-name it still retains.&nbsp; Nearly two centuries of odd doings
-and of queer social history tenant these walls; but we can pause
-no longer than to glance at the little cots standing against the
-ancient wainscotting of the stately rooms, and the infant
-patients toddling up the massive oak staircases.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image99" href="images/p99b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Tite street"
-title=
-"Tite street"
- src="images/p99s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>We turn the corner, and pass through Tite Street, and so come,
-in refreshing contrast with its ambitious artificiality, to a bit
-of genuine nature&mdash;a great garden stretching from Swan Walk
-and the Queen&rsquo;s Road, and fronting just here on the
-Embankment.&nbsp; On one of the great stone posts of this
-entrance&mdash;once the water-gate&mdash;<a
-name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 101</span>we read:
-&ldquo;The Botanic Garden of the Society of Apothecaries of
-London, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1673;&rdquo; on the
-other: &ldquo;Granted to the Society in Perpetuity by Sir Hans
-Sloane, Bart., <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span>
-1723.&rdquo;&nbsp; These grounds remain intact as when in this
-last-named year four acres of Lord Cheyne&rsquo;s former domain
-were made over to the Society of Apothecaries for &ldquo;The
-Chelsea Physick Garden;&rdquo; with permission to build thereon a
-barge-house and offices, for their convenience when they came up
-the river.&nbsp; The buildings were demolished in 1853, but the
-gardens have bravely held out against the Vandal hordes of
-bricklayers and builders; and in them all the herbs of Materia
-Medica which can grow in the open air are cultivated to this very
-day for the instruction of medical students, just as when Dr.
-Johnson&rsquo;s Polyphilus&mdash;the universal genius of the
-<i>Rambler</i>&mdash;started to come out here from London streets
-to see a new plant in flower.&nbsp; The trees are no longer so
-vigorous as when Evelyn, so fond of fine trees, praised them; and
-of the twelve noble Cedars of Lebanon planted by the hand of Sir
-Hans, but one still stands; and this one, even in its
-decrepitude, is nearly as notable, it seems to me, as <a
-name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>that
-glorious unequalled one in the private garden of Monseigneur the
-Archbishop of Tours.&nbsp; In the centre stands the statue of Sir
-Hans Sloane, put up in 1733, chipped and stained by wind and
-weather.&nbsp; For, in this garden Hans Sloane studied, and when
-he became rich and famous and bought the manor of Chelsea, he
-gave the freehold of this place to the Apothecaries&rsquo;
-Company on condition that it should be devoted for ever to the
-use of all students of nature.</p>
-<p>Westward a little way, we come to &ldquo;Swan
-House.&rdquo;&nbsp; This modern-antique mansion stands on the
-site of, and gets its name from, the &ldquo;Old Swan
-Tavern,&rdquo; which has been gone these fifteen years now, and
-which stood right over the river, with projecting wooden
-balconies, and a land entrance from Queen&rsquo;s Road.&nbsp; It
-and its predecessor&mdash;a little lower down the
-river&mdash;were historic public-houses resorted to by parties
-pleasuring from town; and this was always a house of call for
-watermen with their wherries, as we find so well pictured in
-Marryat&rsquo;s &ldquo;Jacob Faithful.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here Pepys
-turned back on the 9th of April, 1666; having come out for a
-holiday, and &ldquo;thinking to have been <a
-name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>merry at
-Chelsey; but being come almost to the house by coach near the
-waterside, a house alone, I think the Swan,&rdquo; he learned
-from a passer-by that the plague had broken out in this suburb,
-and that the &ldquo;house was shut up of the sickness.&nbsp; So
-we with great affright . . . went away for
-Kensington.&rdquo;&nbsp; The old fellow&mdash;he was young
-then&mdash;was fond of taking boat or coach, &ldquo;to be merry
-at Chelsey&rdquo;; often with Mrs. Knipp, the pretty actress;
-sometimes with both her and his wife, and then he drily complains
-to his diary&mdash;&ldquo;and my wife out of humour, as she
-always is when this woman is by.&rdquo;&nbsp; Yet the critics
-claim that he had no sense of fun!&nbsp; Until the &ldquo;Old
-Swan&rdquo; was torn down, it served as the goal for the annual
-race which is still rowed on the first day of every August from
-the &ldquo;Old Swan Tavern&rdquo; at London Bridge, by the young
-Thames watermen, for the prize instituted in 1715 by
-Doggett&mdash;that fine low comedian of Queen Anne&rsquo;s day: a
-silver medal stamped with the white horse of Hanover (in
-commemoration of the First George&rsquo;s coronation), and a
-waterman&rsquo;s orange-coloured coat full of pockets, each
-pocket holding a golden guinea.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image103" href="images/p103b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Statue of Sir Han&rsquo;s Sloane in the Botanic Gardens"
-title=
-"Statue of Sir Han&rsquo;s Sloane in the Botanic Gardens"
- src="images/p103s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p><a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>Just
-beyond, at Flood Street, begins Cheyne Walk; still, despite
-almost daily despoiling, despite embankments and gas and cabs,
-the most old-fashioned, dignified, and impressive spot in all
-London.&nbsp; Those of its modest brick houses which remain have
-not been ruined by too many modern improvements; they are prim
-and respectable, clad in a sedate secluded sobriety, not at all
-of this day.&nbsp; Their little front gardens are unpretending
-and almost sad.&nbsp; Between them and the street are fine
-specimens of old wrought iron in railings and in gates, in last
-century brackets for lamps, in iron extinguishers for the links
-they used to carry.&nbsp; The name &ldquo;Hans Sloane
-House&rdquo; is wrought in open iron letters, in the gate of No.
-17; in others, the numbers alone are thus worked in the antique
-pattern.&nbsp; &ldquo;Manor House&rdquo; has an attractive old
-plaster front; on another a shining brass plate, dimly marked
-&ldquo;Gothic House&rdquo; in well-worn letters, is just what we
-want to find there.&nbsp; In No. 4 died, on the night of the 22nd
-December, 1880, Mrs. John Walter Cross, more widely known as
-George Eliot.&nbsp; And in this same house lived for many years
-Daniel Maclise, the painter of the two <a
-name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>grandest
-national pictures yet produced in England; &ldquo;the gentlest
-and most modest of men,&rdquo; said his friend Charles
-Dickens.&nbsp; Here he died on the 25th of April, 1870, and from
-here he was carried to Kensal Green.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image107" href="images/p107b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"No. 4, Cheyne Walk"
-title=
-"No. 4, Cheyne Walk"
- src="images/p107s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>In No. 15 lived for a long time that youthful genius, Cecil
-Lawson; whose admirable works, rejected at one time by the Royal
-Academy, have been hung in places of honour, since.&nbsp; One
-would be glad to have stepped from his studio into that next
-door, No. 16, and to have seen Dante Gabriel Rossetti at work
-there. <a name="citation109"></a><a href="#footnote109"
-class="citation">[109]</a>&nbsp; His house&mdash;now again known
-by its ancient and proper title, &ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s
-House&rdquo;&mdash;stands back between court and garden, its
-stately double front bowed out by a spacious central bay, the
-famous drawing-room on the first floor taking the whole
-width.&nbsp; This great bay, as high as the house, is not so old,
-however; and must be an addition of more recent years; for the
-house itself plainly dates from the days of the <a
-name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-110</span>Stuarts.&nbsp; Indeed, it shows the influence, if not
-the very hand, of the admirable Wren; not only in the external
-architecture, but in the perfect proportion to all its parts of
-the panelling, the windows, the doorways within.&nbsp; All the
-hall-ways and the rooms, even to the kitchen, are heavily
-wainscotted; and there mounts, up through the whole height of the
-interior, a spiral staircase, its balustrade of finest
-hand-wrought iron.&nbsp; So, too, are the railings and the
-gateway of the <a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-111</span>front courtyard, as you see them in our sketch; and,
-while much of their dainty detail has been gnawed away by the
-tooth of time, they still show the skill, the patience, and the
-conscience of the workers of that earlier day.&nbsp; The iron
-crown which once topped this gate has long since been taken away;
-but we may still trace in twisted iron the initials &ldquo;C.
-R.,&rdquo; and we may still see these same initials in larger
-iron lettering within the pattern of the back-garden
-railings.&nbsp; Catherine of Braganza, Queen of England, is the
-name they are believed to commemorate; and legend says that this
-house was once tenanted by, and perhaps built for, that
-long-suffering consort of Charles II.&nbsp; I like to fancy her
-within these walls&mdash;the brilliant brunette stepping down
-from Lely&rsquo;s canvas at Hampton Court or at Versailles; whose
-superb black eyes were celebrated by the court poet, Edmund
-Waller, in an ode on her birthday, and were characterized by
-sedate John Evelyn as &ldquo;languishing and excellent&rdquo;;
-and who was pronounced to be &ldquo;mighty pretty&rdquo; by that
-erudite and studious critic of female beauty, Samuel Pepys.&nbsp;
-She wears the black velvet <a name="page112"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 112</span>costume so becoming to her, and
-divides her days between pious rites and frisky
-dances&mdash;devoted equally to both!&nbsp; A narrow, bigoted,
-good woman, this: yet, withal, simple, confiding, affectionate,
-modest, patient under neglect from her husband, and under insult
-from his mistresses; deserving a little longer devotion than the
-six weeks Charles vouchsafed to her after their marriage, never
-deserving the lampoons with which Andrew Marvel befouled her.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p110b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Gateway of Rossetti&rsquo;s old house"
-title=
-"Gateway of Rossetti&rsquo;s old house"
- src="images/p110s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>When this front courtyard of &ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s House&rdquo;
-happened to be dug up, not long ago, three sorts of bricks were
-unearthed: those of modern make, those of the Stuart time, those
-of the Tudor type.&nbsp; These latter were the same narrow flat
-ones spoken of as being found in More&rsquo;s chapel and wall;
-and were evidently the wreckage of the water-gate once standing
-here, giving entrance, together with the water stairway, from the
-river&mdash;running close alongside then&mdash;to the palace of
-Henry VIII.&nbsp; And in the foundations of &ldquo;Queen&rsquo;s
-House&rdquo; are to be seen remains of that Tudor stone-work;
-while, in the cellars of the adjacent houses are heavy
-nail-studded doors <a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-113</span>and windows, and similar survivals of that old
-Palace.&nbsp; It was built just here by the King, who had learned
-to like Chelsea, in his visits to More.&nbsp; He had bartered
-land elsewhere&mdash;presumably stolen by him&mdash;for the old
-Manor House standing farther west, near the Church, which
-belonged to the Lawrence family.&nbsp; That not suiting him, he
-built this new Manor House&mdash;a little back from the river
-bank, and a little east of where Oakley Street now runs&mdash;its
-gardens reaching nearly to the present Flood Street, Manor Street
-having been cut through their midst.&nbsp; It was of brick, its
-front and its gateway much like that of St. James&rsquo;s Palace,
-as it looks up St. James&rsquo;s Street; that built just before
-this, by Wolsey, and &ldquo;conveyed&rdquo; to himself by the
-King.&nbsp; An old document describes the Manor House, as the
-&ldquo;said capital messuage, containing on the first floor, 3
-cellars, 3 halls, 3 kitchens, 3 parlours, 9 other rooms and
-larders; on the second floor, 3 drawing rooms and 17 chambers,
-and above, Summer-rooms, closets and garrets; 1 stable and 1
-coach-house.&rdquo;&nbsp; That seems not so very grand in the
-eyes of our modern magnificence.</p>
-<p><a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>I
-have been able to trace the great grounds of the palace, covered
-in part with streets and houses as they now are, and in part
-forming the rear gardens of this end of Cheyne Walk.&nbsp;&nbsp;
-And in these gardens are still standing here and there remnants
-of the ancient encircling walls.&nbsp; The fine garden of
-Queen&rsquo;s House was originally a portion of the palace
-grounds, and stood intact even to Rossetti&rsquo;s time;
-something of its <a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-115</span>extent then being shown in our sketch.&nbsp; The noble
-lime trees still stand there, and among them two strange exotic
-trees, their leaves unknown to the local gardeners.&nbsp; This
-garden is now partly built on by new mansions, partly usurped by
-their gardens.&nbsp; In two of the latter&mdash;spreading out
-into both&mdash;stands the mulberry tree planted by the hand of
-the Princess Elizabeth, still sturdy in its hale old age.&nbsp;
-At the back of other houses a little farther west, notably in the
-garden of Mr. Druse, stand some very ancient trees; and I saw
-there, not very long ago&mdash;but gone, for ever now&mdash;a bit
-of crumbling wall, and an arch, within which were the old hinges
-whereon a gate was once hung.&nbsp; That gate gave entrance from
-the land side, by a path leading across the fields from the
-King&rsquo;s Road, to the palace grounds; and through it, Seymour
-slipped on his secret visits to Katherine Parr, as we know by a
-letter of hers: &ldquo;I pray you let me have knowledge over
-night, at what hour ye will come, that your portress may wait at
-the gate to the fields for you.&rdquo;&nbsp; And she and Seymour
-had their historic romps under these very trees with the <a
-name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>Princess
-Elizabeth, then a girl of thirteen.&nbsp; Within doors, too,
-there were strange pranks &ldquo;betwixt the Lord Admiral, and
-the Lady Elizabeth&rsquo;s Grace,&rdquo; as was later confessed
-by Katherine Aschyly, her maid.&nbsp; When the young lady learned
-that Miss Aschyly and Her Cofferer were under examination in the
-Tower, says the old chronicler, &ldquo;She was marvelous
-abashede, and ded weype very tenderly a long Time, demandyng of
-my Lady Browne wether they had confessed anything!&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Katherine Parr did not enjoy these frolics, and sometimes was
-furious with jealousy on finding them out; but for all that, she
-patiently returned to her persistent pious writing, too kindly a
-nature to harbour malice or suspicion.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p114b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Dante Gabriel Rossetti&rsquo;s garden"
-title=
-"Dante Gabriel Rossetti&rsquo;s garden"
- src="images/p114s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Elizabeth had come to live in the Manor House, at the age of
-four, that she might grow up in that healthful air: her father
-placing, with his customary delicacy, the daughter of Anne Boleyn
-under the care and tuition and example of his latest wife, the
-staid and studious Katherine Parr.&nbsp; To this latter, the King
-had given, on their marriage, the Manor House as her jointure;
-and there she lived in great state, <a name="page117"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 117</span>after Henry&rsquo;s death.&nbsp;
-Already before their marriage, even then a wistful widow, she had
-been bewitched by Seymour; and had meant to marry him, but for
-being forced to submit to the King&rsquo;s will to make her his
-queen.&nbsp; Once queen, she seemed to subdue her passion for
-Seymour; says the na&iuml;ve ancient chronicler, &ldquo;it does
-not appear that any interruption to connubial comforts arose out
-of that particular source.&rdquo;&nbsp; The estimable monarch
-rotted to death at the end of January, 1546&ndash;7, and the
-month of May was made merry to his widow&mdash;but thirty-five
-years old&mdash;by her secret marriage with Seymour.&nbsp; He was
-a turbulent, unscrupulous, handsome rascal, a greedy gambler, an
-insane intriguer; brother of the Protector Somerset, maternal
-uncle of King Edward VII., brother-in-law of the King; and he had
-tried to marry the Princess Elizabeth, then a girl of thirteen or
-fourteen, even while coquetting with the Queen-Dowager Katherine
-Parr.&nbsp; The girl with her Boleyn blood doubtless delighted in
-the mystery of the secret visits, which she knew of, and in the
-secret marriage later, which she surely suspected.&nbsp; The
-Queen-Dowager <a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-118</span>must have found it a trying and turbulent task to train
-her, and had more comfort in her other pupil, little Lady Jane
-Grey; who came here often for a visit, and for sympathy in the
-studies in which she was already a prodigy, even then at the age
-of eleven.&nbsp; She is a pure and perfect picture, this lovely
-and gentle girl, amid all these cruel and crafty creatures; but
-we cannot follow her farther in the touching tragedy, in which
-she played the innocent usurper, the blameless martyr.&nbsp; Nor
-can we say more of Katherine Parr&mdash;probably poisoned by her
-husband&mdash;nor of his death on the block, nor of the rascally
-and wretched record of the future owners of this Manor House; but
-let us come directly down to the year 1712, when it was sold by
-Lord William Cheyne, lord of the manor, widely known as
-&ldquo;Lady Jane&rsquo;s husband,&rdquo; to Sir Hans
-Sloane.&nbsp; It was looked on then as a grand place, and Evelyn,
-visiting Lord Cheyne and Lady Jane, notes in his diary that the
-gardens are fine, the fountains &ldquo;very surprising and
-extraordinary.&rdquo;&nbsp; These had been designed by
-Winstanley, him who built Eddystone Lighthouse, and who perished
-therein.</p>
-<p><a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>Hans
-Sloane had come up to London, a young Irish student of medicine;
-and, frequenting the Botanical Gardens in Chelsea, just in view
-of this Manor House, he must often have looked at and perhaps
-longed to live in the roomy old mansion.&nbsp; After his return
-from Jamaica, he pursued his studies with such success that he
-was made President of the Royal Society on the death of Sir Isaac
-Newton, in 1727.&nbsp; He became a famous physician, was doctor
-to the Queens Anne and Caroline, as well as to George I., who
-made him a baronet in 1716; the first physician so ennobled in
-England.&nbsp; As he grew in wealth he bought much property in
-Chelsea, first this Manor House&mdash;wherein he lived for
-fourteen years, and wherein he died&mdash;then More&rsquo;s
-house, then land in other quarters of this suburb.&nbsp; His name
-is perpetuated in Sloane Square and in Hans Place, and his
-property now forms the estate of the Earl of Cadogan, whose
-ancestor, the famous General Cadogan, a Colonel of the Horse
-Guards in Marlborough&rsquo;s <a name="page120"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 120</span>wars, married Elizabeth, daughter
-and co-heiress of Sir Hans Sloane; so that the present Earl of
-Cadogan is &ldquo;Lord of the Manor and Viscount
-Chelsey.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>But greater than his riches, better than all his other
-services, is the fact that Sir Hans Sloane was the founder of the
-British Museum.&nbsp; The extraordinary collection in Natural
-History, of books and of manuscripts, with which his house in
-Bloomsbury was filled, and which then overflowed into his Chelsea
-house, was left by him to the Nation, on the payment to his
-estate of only &pound;20,000; it having cost him not less than
-&pound;50,000.&nbsp; Parliament passed the appropriation, the
-purchase was perfected, and this little pond has now grown into
-the great ocean of the British Museum; on the shores of which, we
-who come to scoop up our small spoonfuls of knowledge are cared
-for so courteously by its guardians.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>There was an Irish servant of Sir Hans Sloane, one Salter, who
-established himself in 1695 as a barber in a little house in
-Cheyne Walk which stood on the site of <a
-name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>the present
-Nos. 17 and 18: &ldquo;six doors beyond Manor Street,&rdquo;
-contemporary papers say, and I have no doubt this is the correct
-site.&nbsp; Salter was a thin little man, with a hungry look as
-of one fond of philosophy or of fretting; and Vice-Admiral
-Munden, just home from years of service on the Spanish coast,
-dubbed him, in a freak, Don Saltero, a title he carried to his
-death.&nbsp; He took in all the papers, and had musical
-instruments lying about&mdash;he himself twanged Don-like the
-guitar&mdash;that his customers might divert themselves while
-awaiting their turns.&nbsp; His master had given him a lot of
-rubbish, for which his own house had no more room, as well as
-duplicates of curiosities of real value in the Museum in
-Bloomsbury.&nbsp; To these he added others of his own invention:
-the inevitable bit of the Holy Cross, the pillar to which Jesus
-was tied when scourged, a necklace of Job&rsquo;s tears; and, as
-the little barber rhymed in his advertisements in 1723, just
-after De Foe had set the town talking with his new
-book&mdash;</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Monsters of all sorts here are seen,<br />
-Strange things in Nature as they grew so;<br />
-Some relics of the Sheba Queen,<br />
-And fragments of the famed Bob Crusoe.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p><a name="page122"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 122</span>So
-that &ldquo;my eye was diverted by ten thousand gimcracks on the
-walls and ceiling,&rdquo; as Steele puts it in the <i>Tatler</i>,
-describing a Voyage to Chelsea.&nbsp; For Don Saltero&rsquo;s
-museum, barber&rsquo;s shop, reading-room, coffee-house had
-become quite the vogue, and a favourite lounge for men of
-quality.&nbsp; Old St. Evremond was probably among the first to
-be shaved here; Richard Cromwell used to come often and sit
-silently&mdash;&ldquo;a little, and very neat old man, with a
-most placid countenance, the effect of his innocent and
-unambitious life.&rdquo;&nbsp; Steele and Addison and their
-friends were frequent visitors &ldquo;to the Coffee House where
-the Literati sit in council.&rdquo;&nbsp; And there came here one
-day about 1724 or 1725, a young man of eighteen or twenty years,
-out for a holiday from the printing-press at which he worked in
-Bartholomew Close&mdash;Benjamin Franklin by name, recently
-arrived from the loyal Colonies of North America, and lodging in
-Little Britain.&nbsp; He had brought with him to London a purse
-of asbestos, which Sir Hans Sloane, hearing of, bought at a
-handsome price, and added to his museum.&nbsp; To this museum he
-gave the young printer an invitation, and probably told <a
-name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>him about
-Don Saltero&rsquo;s.&nbsp; It was on Franklin&rsquo;s return from
-there&mdash;the party went by river, of course&mdash;that he
-undressed and leapt into the water, and, as he wrote in his
-letters, &ldquo;swam from near Chelsea the whole way to
-Blackfriars Bridge, exhibiting during the course a variety of
-feats of activity and address, both upon the surface of the
-water, as well as under it.&nbsp; This sight occasioned much
-astonishment and pleasure to those to whom it was new.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image123" href="images/p123b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Don Saltero&rsquo;s"
-title=
-"Don Saltero&rsquo;s"
- src="images/p123s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>It is a far cry from Dick Steele to Charles Lamb, yet the
-latter too makes mention of the &ldquo;Don Saltero Tavern&rdquo;
-in one of his letters; saying that he had had offered to him, by
-a fellow clerk in the India House, all the ornaments of its
-smoking-room, at the time of the auction-sale, when the
-collection was dispersed.</p>
-<p>This was in 1807, and the place was then turned into a tavern;
-its original sign&mdash;&ldquo;Don Saltero&rsquo;s, 1695,&rdquo;
-in gold letters on a green board&mdash;swinging between beams in
-front, until the demolition of the old house only twenty years
-ago. <a name="citation125"></a><a href="#footnote125"
-class="citation">[125]</a></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>A
-little farther on, just west of Oakley Street, on the outer edge
-of the roadway of Cheyne Walk, stood, until within a few months,
-another old sign, at which I was wont to look in delight,
-unshamed by the mute mockery of the passing Briton, who wondered
-what the sentimental prowler could see to attract him in this
-rusty relic.&nbsp; It stood in front of the little public-house
-lately burned to the ground&mdash;&ldquo;The Magpie and
-Stump:&rdquo; two solid posts carrying a wide cross-piece, all
-bristling with spikes for the impalement of the climbing boy of
-the period; &ldquo;<span class="smcap">Magpie and Stump, Quoit
-Grounds</span>,&rdquo; in dingy letters on the outer side, once
-plain for all rowing men to read from the river; above was an
-iron Magpie on an iron Stump, both decrepid with age, and a rusty
-old weathercock, too stiff to turn even the letter
-<i>E</i>&mdash;<a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-129</span>alone left of the four points of the compass.&nbsp;
-Between these posts might still be traced the top stone of an old
-water-staircase, embedded now in the new-made ground which forms
-the embankment garden here; just as you might have seen, only the
-other day, the water-stairs of Whitehall Palace, which have now
-been carted away.&nbsp; Up this staircase Queen Elizabeth has
-often stepped, on her frequent visits to the rich and powerful
-Earl of Shrewsbury, her devoted subject and friend.&nbsp; For, on
-the river slope, just back of Cheyne Walk here, stood, until the
-second decade of this century, Shrewsbury House, another one of
-Chelsea&rsquo;s grand mansions.&nbsp; It was an irregular brick
-structure, much gabled, built about a quadrangle; although but
-one storey in height it was sufficiently spacious, its great room
-being one hundred and twenty feet in length, wainscotted in
-finely carved oak, and its oratory painted to resemble
-marble.&nbsp; In a circular room there was concealed a trap-door,
-giving entrance to a winding stairway, which led to an
-underground passage; believed to have opened on the river wall at
-low tide, and to have twisted inland to the &ldquo;Black
-Horse&rdquo; <a name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-130</span>in Chelsea, and thence to Holland House,
-Kensington.&nbsp; Local gossip claims that it was used by the
-Jacobites of 1745, and perhaps of 1715, too; for they made their
-rendezvous by the river at this tavern, and here drank to their
-&ldquo;King over the water.&rdquo;&nbsp; In the grounds of the
-&ldquo;Magpie and Stump&rdquo; is a wooden trapdoor, through
-which I once descended by stone steps into a paved stone passage,
-sufficiently wide and high for two to pass, standing erect.&nbsp;
-This bit is all that remains of the old tunnel&mdash;the river
-portion being used as a coal-hole, the inland end soon stopped up
-and lost in neighbouring cellars.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image127" href="images/p127b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Cheyne Walk, with the Magpie and Stump"
-title=
-"Cheyne Walk, with the Magpie and Stump"
- src="images/p127s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The wife of this Earl of Shrewsbury is well worth our
-attention for a moment, by reason of her beauty, her character,
-her romantic career, her many marriages.&nbsp; Elizabeth Hardwick
-of Derby became Mrs. Barley at the age of fourteen, and was a
-wealthy widow when only sixteen; she soon married Sir William
-Cavendish, ancestor of the Duke of Devonshire; to be widowed soon
-again, and soon to become the wife of Sir William St. Loo,
-Captain of Queen Elizabeth&rsquo;s Guard.&nbsp; His death left
-her still so lovely, witty, attractive, as to <a
-name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 131</span>captivate
-the greatest subject in the land; and she became the Countess of
-Shrewsbury; having risen regularly in riches, position, power,
-with each of her marriages.&nbsp; After the death of her fourth
-husband she consented to remain a widow.&nbsp; At her death,
-seventeen years later, she bequeathed this Chelsea mansion to her
-son William, afterward the first Duke of Devonshire; together
-with the three grandest seats in England&mdash;Hardwick,
-Oldcoates, Chatsworth&mdash;all builded by her at successive
-stages of her eventful career.</p>
-<p>Hard by here we trace the site of another notable
-mansion&mdash;the ancient palace of the Bishops of
-Winchester&mdash;which stood a little back from the river bank,
-just where broad Oakley Street runs up from opposite the Albert
-Suspension Bridge.&nbsp; It was only two storeys high and of
-humble exterior, yet it contained many grand rooms, lavishly
-decorated.&nbsp; On the wall of one of the chambers, there was
-found, when the building was torn down early in the century, a
-group of nine life-size figures, admirably done in black on the
-white plaster; believed to have been drawn by Hogarth in one of
-his visits to his friend Bishop Hoadley, here.</p>
-<p><a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>A
-step farther westward along Cheyne Walk and we turn into Lawrence
-Street; at the upper end of which, at the corner of Justice Walk,
-we shall find, in the cellars of &ldquo;The Prince of
-Wales&rdquo; tavern and of the adjoining houses, the remains of
-the ovens and baking-rooms of the famous Chelsea China
-factory.&nbsp; For it stood just here during the short forty
-years of its existence, having been established in 1745.&nbsp;
-Why it failed and why the factory was torn down, no one seems to
-know; for its work was extremely fine, and its best
-ware&mdash;turned out from 1750 to 1765&mdash;was equal to that
-of S&egrave;vres.&nbsp; Skilled foreign artizans had been brought
-over, and an extraordinary specimen of unskilled native workman
-appeared in Dr. Samuel Johnson.&nbsp; The old scholar conceived
-the idea that he could make china as admirably as he could make a
-dictionary; but he never mastered the secret of mixing, and each
-piece of his cracked in the baking!&nbsp; He used to come out
-here twice a week, his old housekeeper carrying his basket of
-food for the day; and was made free of the whole factory, except
-the mixing-room.&nbsp; They presented him with a full service of
-their own <a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-133</span>make, properly baked, however; which he gave or
-bequeathed to Mrs. Piozzo, and which, at the sale of her effects,
-was bought by Lord Holland.&nbsp; In &ldquo;Holland House by
-Kensington&rdquo;&mdash;to use its good old title&mdash;I have
-seen it, carefully preserved among the other famed
-<i>curios</i>.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p133b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"A Chelsea corner"
-title=
-"A Chelsea corner"
- src="images/p133s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>&ldquo;This is Danvers Street, begun in ye Yeare 1696,&rdquo;
-says the quaint old lettering in a corner house of Cheyne Walk;
-and this street marks the site of Danvers House, which had formed
-part of More&rsquo;s property&mdash;perhaps the &ldquo;new
-buildinge&rdquo;&mdash;and which had gone to his son-in-law,
-Roper.&nbsp; It came afterward to be owned <a
-name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>by Sir John
-Danvers, a gentleman-usher of Charles I., and he made a superb
-place of it; of which the deep foundations and the fallen columns
-now lie under Paultons Square, at the upper end of the
-street.&nbsp; Sir John Danvers was the second husband of Magdalen
-Herbert, a woman notable for her famous family of boys: her first
-son was that strong and strange original, Lord Herbert of
-Cherbury; her fifth son was George Herbert, of undying
-memory.&nbsp; The poet lived here for a while.&nbsp; Donne, the
-preacher, then at Oxford, used to stop at her house on his visits
-to London; and when he became Vicar of St.
-Dunstan&rsquo;s-in-the-West, in the Strand, near Isaac
-Walton&rsquo;s old shop in Chancery Lane, and had converted the
-Gentle Angler, these two certainly strolled often out here
-together.&nbsp; Donne preached Lady Danvers&rsquo; funeral sermon
-in Old Chelsea Church in 1627; notable as one of his most
-touching discourses.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>In the embankment gardens we have passed a statue recently
-placed there; a man seated in a chair, uncouth <a
-name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>of figure,
-with bent brow and rugged face.&nbsp; And in the wall of the
-corner house behind we stop to look at a small memorial tablet,
-still more recently placed; a medallion portrait of the same
-face, and beneath, this inscription: &ldquo;Thomas Carlyle lived
-at 24, Cheyne Row, 1834&ndash;81.&rdquo;&nbsp; For this is not
-the house in which he lived, and the tablet was fixed on this one
-with queer common sense, his own being in Chancery at that
-time!&nbsp; It is to be found farther up in this little dull
-street running from Cheyne Walk just here; in which there is
-nothing that is not commonplace, save the little cottage covered
-with vines, in the wall above which is a stone with odd
-old-fashioned lettering&mdash;&ldquo;This is Gt. Cheyne Row,
-1708.&rdquo;&nbsp; About the middle of the row of small dreary
-brick houses, the one once numbered 5, now 24, is that in which
-he dwelt for nearly fifty years, and wherein he wrote his
-commination service large on all mankind; talking more
-eloquently, and more loquaciously withal, in praise of silence,
-than any man who ever scolded all through life that he might do
-honour to the strong arm and the still tongue!</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image136" href="images/p136b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm"
-title=
-"Statue of Thomas Carlyle, by Boehm"
- src="images/p136s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p><a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 138</span>The
-look-out across the narrow street from his front
-windows&mdash;&ldquo;mainly into trees,&rdquo; he wrote to Sir
-William Hamilton, on moving here&mdash;shows now nothing but a
-long, low, depressing wall, above which rises a many-windowed
-model dwelling-house; and it is surely one of the least inspiring
-prospects in all London: while from the back he could see nothing
-of interest except the westernmost end of the old wall of Henry
-VIII.&rsquo;s Manor House garden, which still stands here.&nbsp;
-It gave him a hint in his pamphlet, &ldquo;Shooting
-Niagara;&rdquo; wherein, sneering at modern bricks and
-bricklayers, he says: &ldquo;Bricks, burn them rightly, build
-them faithfully with mortar faithfully tempered, <i>they</i> will
-stand. . . .&nbsp; We have them here at the head of this garden,
-which are in their third or fourth century.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Long before his day, there had lived, almost on this same
-spot, another &ldquo;Hermit of Chelsea,&rdquo; in the person of
-Dr. Tobias Smollett; who came here to live in retirement in 1750,
-fresh from the fame of his &ldquo;Roderick Random;&rdquo; seeking
-such seclusion partly on account of his daughter&rsquo;s health
-and his own, and partly for the sake of his work.&nbsp; Here he
-wrote &ldquo;Ferdinand Count <a name="page141"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 141</span>Fathom,&rdquo; finished Hume&rsquo;s
-&ldquo;History of England,&rdquo; and began his translation of
-&ldquo;Don Quixote;&rdquo; and here took place those Sunday
-dinners, the delicious description of which, and of the guests,
-he has put into the mouth of young Jerry Melford, in
-&ldquo;Humphrey Clinker.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here were spent some of his
-happiest days, with his work and with his friends from town;
-Johnson, Garrick, Sterne, John Wilkes, John Hunter: the latter
-probably coming from Earl&rsquo;s Court, Kensington, where his
-place&mdash;mansion, museum, and menagerie in one&mdash;stood
-till very lately.&nbsp; Smollett was as well known in the streets
-of Chelsea, in his day, as Carlyle in ours&mdash;&ldquo;a
-good-sized, strongly-made man, graceful, dignified, and
-pleasant.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image139" href="images/p139b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Carlyle&rsquo;s house, Great Cheyne Row"
-title=
-"Carlyle&rsquo;s house, Great Cheyne Row"
- src="images/p139s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>It was a fine old place, with extensive grounds, which
-Smollett took; being the ancient Manor House of the Lawrences,
-once owned by Henry VIII., as we have seen.&nbsp; The house stood
-exactly on the site of this block of two-storied brick cottages
-called &ldquo;Little Cheyne Row,&rdquo; between Great Cheyne Row
-and Lawrence Street.&nbsp; Its early history has little that need
-detain us, until, in 1714, it came to be called Monmouth <a
-name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>House, from
-its new owner, the Duchess of Monmouth and Buccleuch; who came
-here with John Gay as her domestic steward or secretary, and who
-here lived to the age of ninety.&nbsp; She had been an ornament
-of Charles II.&rsquo;s court, a real jewel amidst all the
-pinchbeck and paste of his setting.&nbsp; She was the widow of
-his son, the hapless Duke of Monmouth; &ldquo;who began life with
-no legal right to his being, and ended it by forfeiting all
-similar right to his head.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is to this gracious
-and gentle <i>chatelaine</i> that Sir Walter Scott sings his
-&ldquo;Lay of the Last Minstrel&rdquo;:</p>
-<blockquote><p>&ldquo;For she had known adversity,<br />
-Though born in such a high degree;<br />
-In pride of power, in beauty&rsquo;s bloom,<br />
-Had wept o&rsquo;er Monmouth&rsquo;s bloody tomb.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Smollett left the place for ever, in 1769, and a little later,
-went to die in Spain; a brave, silent, sad man, for all the fun
-in his books, and already broken in health by the untimely death
-of his daughter.&nbsp; The Chelsea historian, Faulkner, writing
-in 1829, says that Monmouth House was then &ldquo;a melancholy
-scene of desolation <a name="page145"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 145</span>and ruin.&rdquo;&nbsp; It was
-finally torn down and carted away in 1834.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image144" href="images/p144b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Chelsea Rectory"
-title=
-"The Chelsea Rectory"
- src="images/p144s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The grounds of Monmouth House&mdash;now built over by a great
-board-school&mdash;stretched back to those of the Rectory of St.
-Luke&rsquo;s, a step to the northward.&nbsp; The Rectory is an
-irregular brick building, delightful to the eye, set in an
-old-fashioned lawn with great trees; its tranquillity assured by
-a high brick wall.&nbsp; It is a very old house, was built by the
-Marquis of Winchester, and granted by him to the parish on May
-6th, 1566, at the request of Queen Elizabeth.&nbsp; Glebe Place,
-just at hand, shows the site of the glebe land given in her time,
-in exchange for the older parsonage, which stood still farther
-west, behind Millman&rsquo;s Row, now Millman&rsquo;s Street.</p>
-<p>The historic interest of this Chelsea Rectory, however, is
-dwarfed by its personal appeal to all of us, for that it was the
-home of three notable boys; named, in the order of their ages,
-Charles, George, and Henry Kingsley.&nbsp; They came here in the
-year 1836; their <a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-146</span>father, the Rev. Charles Kingsley, having received the
-living of St. Luke&rsquo;s, Chelsea, from Lord Cadogan.&nbsp; So
-their beloved west-country life was exchanged for the prim,
-parochial prosiness, which made such a doleful difference to them
-all.&nbsp; For these boys were born, it seems to me, with the
-instant love of life and movement in their blood.&nbsp; Charles
-has shown it in almost everything he wrote; Henry gave utterance
-to it in his books only in a less degree, because it found vent
-in his years of wandering; while George&mdash;better known as
-&ldquo;The Doctor&rdquo;&mdash;appears for a little while at
-spasmodic intervals at his home on Highgate Hill, then plunges
-into space again, and is vaguely heard of, now yachting in the
-South Seas, now chatting delightfully in a Colorado
-mining-camp.&nbsp; Henry, the youngest, was a sensitive, shy lad,
-delicate in health; and the old dames in this neighbourhood tell
-of his quiet manner and modest bearing.&nbsp; Many of the poor
-old women about here have a vivid remembrance of &ldquo;the
-boys,&rdquo; and speak of the whole family with respect and
-affection.&nbsp; Henry was born in 1830, studied at King&rsquo;s
-College, London, for a little over two years, 1844&ndash;6; his
-name <a name="page147"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 147</span>was
-entered at Worcester College, Oxford, March 6th, 1850; where he
-kept ten terms, leaving at Easter, 1853, without taking his
-degree.&nbsp; The Australian &ldquo;gold-digging fever&rdquo; was
-then raging, and he started for that country with two
-friends.&nbsp; There he did all sorts of things: tried mining,
-tried herding, became a stockman, was in the mounted police; and
-after about five years of these varied vocations, returned to
-England with no gold in his pockets.&nbsp; It was all in his
-brain; a precious possession of experience of life and of men, to
-be coined into the characters and the scenes which have passed
-current all over the globe.&nbsp; All his Australian stories are
-admirable, and &ldquo;Geoffrey Hamlyn&rdquo;&mdash;his first
-work, produced soon after his return, in 1859&mdash;is the best
-tale of colonial life ever written.&nbsp; His parents had
-intended that he should take holy orders, hoping perhaps that he
-should succeed his father in the living of old St. Luke&rsquo;s;
-but he felt himself utterly unfitted for this profession, as he
-also, although with less reason, believed himself unfitted for
-that of the journalist.&nbsp; This latter he tried for a while
-when he came back to England; and indeed, as a correspondent <a
-name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>he
-displayed dash enough, and after the surrender of Sedan, was the
-first man to enter within the French lines.&nbsp; He found at
-length his proper place as an essayist and a novelist.&nbsp; In
-all his works, there is to me a strange and nameless
-charm&mdash;a quaint humour, a genuine sentiment, an atmosphere
-all his own, breezy, buoyant, boyish; seeming to show a
-personality behind all his creations&mdash;that of their
-creator&mdash;a fair, frank, fresh-hearted man.&nbsp; He had true
-artistic talent in another direction, too, inherited from his
-grandfather; and he may have been just in judging himself capable
-of gaining far greater reputation as a painter than as a
-novelist, even.&nbsp; His skill in drawing was amazing, and the
-few water-colours and oils left to his family&mdash;and unknown
-outside of its members&mdash;are masterpieces.&nbsp; On his
-return from Australia, he lived for a while with his mother at
-&ldquo;The Cottage,&rdquo; at Eversleigh; never caring for
-Chelsea after the death of his father.&nbsp; He was married in
-1864 by Charles Kingsley and Gerald Blunt, the present Rector of
-Chelsea.&nbsp; On May 24th, 1876, &ldquo;on the vigil of the
-Ascension,&rdquo; only forty-six years of age, he died at
-Cuckfield, Sussex, <a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-149</span>which quiet retreat he had chosen twelve months
-before.</p>
-<p>Henry Kingsley especially appeals to us, just here, for that
-he has given us, in &ldquo;The Hillyars and Burtons,&rdquo; so
-vivid a picture of modern Chelsea&mdash;its streets and by-ways,
-its old houses and its venerable church, in delightful detail, as
-he saw them when a boy.&nbsp; The Hillyar family is a romantic
-reproduction of that ancient Chelsea family, the Lawrences; in
-&ldquo;The Burtons&rdquo; he gives us his reminiscence of the
-Wyatt household, living at Wargrave, Henley-on-Thames.&nbsp; The
-brave girl, Emma Burton, is a portrait of Emma Wyatt.&nbsp; The
-old home of the Burtons&mdash;&ldquo;the very large house which
-stood by itself, as it were, fronting the buildings opposite our
-forge; which contained twenty-five rooms, some of them very
-large, and which was called by us, indifferently, Church Place,
-or Queen Elizabeth&rsquo;s Place&rdquo;&mdash;<i>this</i> was the
-only one of the grand mansions just here in Chelsea left standing
-when the Kingsleys came here.&nbsp; &ldquo;It had been in reality
-the palace of the young Earl of Essex; a very large three-storied
-house of old brick, with stone-mullioned <a
-name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 150</span>windows and
-doorways.&rdquo;&nbsp; You may see a print of it in &ldquo;kind
-old Mr. Faulkner&rsquo;s&rdquo; book, as he found it in 1830,
-dilapidated then, and let out to many tenants.&nbsp; Later, it
-sunk lower still; and finally the grand old
-fabric&mdash;&ldquo;which had been trodden often enough by the
-statesmen and dandies of Queen Elizabeth&rsquo;s court, and most
-certainly by that mighty woman herself&rdquo;&mdash;was
-demolished between 1840&ndash;42.&nbsp; The boy of ten or twelve
-then, Henry Kingsley, must have had the same feelings of wonder
-and regret, which he puts into the speech of Jim Burton, as he
-looked on this historic pile, roofless, dis-windowed, pickaxed to
-pieces.&nbsp; He is not quite correct in letting Jim Burton fix
-its site on the south side of Paultons Square; it stood between
-that square and Church Street, exactly where now stands a block
-of poor little one-storied houses, &ldquo;Paulton Terrace,
-1843,&rdquo; painted on its pediment; and at the back, built in
-with some still more wretched little dwellings, you shall still
-see part of the palace wall of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex,
-the son of the Putney blacksmith.</p>
-<p><a name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>From
-this ancient site I often walk, in company with the Burton
-brothers, Joe and Jim, their sister Emma and Erne Hillyar behind,
-down old Church Lane, now Church Street, haunted by historic
-shades, to where, at its foot, stands &ldquo;Chelsea Old
-Church.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>&ldquo;Four hundred years of memory are crowded into that dark
-old church, and the great flood of change beats round the walls,
-and shakes the door in vain, but never enters.&nbsp; The dead
-stand thick together there, as if to make a brave resistance to
-the moving world outside, which jars upon their slumber.&nbsp; It
-is a church of the dead.&nbsp; I cannot fancy any one being
-married in that church&mdash;its air would chill the boldest
-bride that ever walked to the altar.&rdquo;&nbsp; So Joe Burton
-well says, sitting in his &ldquo;old place&rdquo;&mdash;the bench
-which stood in front of Sir Thomas More&rsquo;s monument, close
-to the altar-rails.&nbsp; But for all that, it is not a
-depressing but rather a delightful old church, if you sit here of
-a summer afternoon; the sun streaming in from the south-west,
-slanting on the stone effigies, and the breeze breathing in
-through the little door beside More&rsquo;s monument, shaking the
-grass outside, and the <a name="page152"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 152</span>noble river sparkling beyond the
-embankment garden.&nbsp; To me it has more of fascination than
-any church in London.&nbsp; Its entire absence of architectural
-effect in its varying styles; its retention to this day of the
-simplicity of the village church, even as when built; its many
-monuments and mural tablets, each one a page of English history;
-its family escutcheons; its tattered battle flags hung above; the
-living memories that are built in with every dead stone: all
-these combine to make it the quaintest, the most impressive, the
-most lovable of churches.&nbsp; Dean Stanley was fond of calling
-it one of the Chapters of his Abbey.&nbsp; This is not the place
-for a description of the monuments, nor for details of their
-inscriptions; which make us think, as they did the boy Jim
-Burton, that these buried here &ldquo;were the best people who
-ever lived.&rdquo;&nbsp; Only the tenant of one plain stone
-coffin is modest in his simple request cut thereon: &ldquo;Of
-your Charitie pray for the soul of Edmund Bray,
-Knight.&rdquo;&nbsp; As for most of the others, I quite agree
-with Jim, that the Latin, in which their long epitaphs are
-written, was the only language appropriate; the English tongue
-being &ldquo;utterly unfit to <a name="page153"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 153</span>express the various virtues of these
-wonderful Chelsea people;&rdquo; among whom, it strikes me, too,
-that &ldquo;Sir Thomas More was the most obstinately determined
-that posterity should hear his own account of
-himself.&rdquo;&nbsp; His black marble slab, set deep under a
-plain grey Gothic arch, is placed on the chancel wall, just where
-he used to stand in his &ldquo;surplisse;&rdquo; above it is his
-punning crest, a Moor&rsquo;s head on a shield; and on it is cut
-his own long Latin inscription, sent by him to his friend
-Erasmus, who thought it worth printing in his collection of
-&ldquo;Tracts and Letters&rdquo; (Antwerp, 1534).&nbsp; Twice
-have the characters been recut; and each time has care been
-taken, for his memory&rsquo;s sake, to leave blank the last word
-of the line, which describes him as &ldquo;troublesome to
-thieves, murderers and <i>heretics</i>.&rdquo;&nbsp; To the
-sturdy old Catholic these were all equal&mdash;all criminals to
-be put out of the way.&nbsp; The irony of chance has placed, on
-the wall close beside his tomb, a tablet which keeps alive the
-name of one of the Tyndale family, a descendant of that one whose
-books More burnt, and whose body he would probably have liked to
-burn, also!&nbsp; More&rsquo;s two wives are buried here, as well
-<a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>as
-others of his family; but whether his body lies here, or in a
-Tower grave, no one knows.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a href="images/p154b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"A Corner in Chelsea Old Church"
-title=
-"A Corner in Chelsea Old Church"
- src="images/p154s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Three of Chelsea&rsquo;s grandest ladies lie under monuments
-in the church.&nbsp; Lady Dacre, with her husband
-Gregory&mdash;&ldquo;their dogs at their feet&rdquo;&mdash;rests
-under a Gothic canopy, richly wrought with flowers; tomb and
-canopy all of superb white marble.&nbsp; Its sumptuousness is all
-the more striking in that it contrasts so strongly with the
-simplicity ordered by her dying injunctions, as she wrote them on
-December 20, 1594, when decreeing <a name="page155"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 155</span>the establishment of her
-almshouses&mdash;venerable cottages still standing in Tothill
-Street, Westminster, not far from the little street named for
-her.&nbsp; In her will she says: &ldquo;And I earnestly desire
-that I may be buried in one tombe with my lord at Chelsey,
-without all earthlie pompe, but with some privat freindes, and
-nott to be ripped, and towling for me, but no ringing, after
-service ys done.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>Opposite where she lies, reposes in white marble of the size
-of life, under a pillared arch on a black marble pedestal,
-another noted Chelsea dame, Lady Jane Cheyne; and on the marble
-her worthy husband Charles, transformed here into Carolus,
-records in sounding Latin the good she did in her life.&nbsp;
-Notably did she benefit this church, towards the re-building of
-which she gave largely.</p>
-<p>The great Duchess of Northumberland&mdash;mother of
-Elizabeth&rsquo;s Leicester, grandmother of Sir Philip
-Sidney&mdash;was laid to rest under a magnificent tomb; of which
-there now is left, to keep alive her memory, here against the
-wall, only a slab beneath a noble arch, and faded gilt
-escutcheons beautifully wrought.</p>
-<p><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>And
-now, glancing about at the monumental marble and brass of these
-soldiers, statesmen, citizens, simple and stately, we are ready
-to agree with straight-thinking Jim Burton: &ldquo;But, on the
-whole, give me the Hillyars, kneeling humbly, with nothing to say
-for themselves.&rdquo;&nbsp; It is the Lawrence family, as I have
-explained, who are called &ldquo;The Hillyars&rdquo; by Henry
-Kingsley; and his preference&mdash;a memory, no doubt, of the
-Sunday visits of his boyhood to the rector&rsquo;s pew, which
-directly faces these tombs&mdash;refers to that quaint monument
-in the Lawrence chapel; where, under a little arch, supported by
-columns, kneel wife and husband face to face, he in his armour,
-his three simple-seeming sons in ruffs kneeling behind him; she
-in her heavy stiff dress, her six daughters on their knees behind
-in a dutiful row, decreasing in size to the two dead while yet
-babies on the cushion before her.&nbsp; Says Jim: &ldquo;I gave
-them names in my own head.&nbsp; I loved two of them.&nbsp; On
-the female side I loved the little wee child, for whom there was
-very small room, and who was crowded against the pillar, kneeling
-on the skirts of the last of her big sisters.&nbsp; And I loved
-the big lad, <a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-157</span>who knelt directly behind his father; between the
-Knight himself and the two little brothers, dressed so very like
-blue-coat boys, such quaint little fellows as they
-were.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>In this Lawrence chapel we see a strange survival of a common
-custom of the pre-Reformation times; when a great family was wont
-to build and own its private chapel in the parish church; using
-it for worship during life, for burial in death, and deeding or
-bequeathing it, as they did any other real estate.&nbsp; When Sir
-Thomas Lawrence became Lord of the Manor, he partly bought, and
-partly built, this chapel; and now, although it forms the entire
-east end of the north aisle, it has not been modernized like the
-rest of the church, but retains its high-backed pews and other
-ancient peculiarities unchanged since the church was repaired in
-1667; for it is still private property, belonging to the family
-to whom it has descended from the Lawrences, and to them goes the
-income derived from its pews.</p>
-<p>Before going out through the main door we stop to look at the
-wooden rack to which the old books are chained, and underneath,
-at the little mahogany shelf, <a name="page158"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 158</span>for convenience in reading them:
-these bring back to us the monkish days.&nbsp; Here is the Bible,
-kept since that time when it was so costly a volume; here the
-Prayer-book, the Church Homilies, Foxe&rsquo;s Martyrology: this
-latter then nearly as sacred as the Scriptures.&nbsp; In the
-porch now stands the bell which hung for nearly two hundred years
-in the tower, given to the church by &ldquo;the Honourable
-William Ashburnham, Esquire, Cofferer to His Majesty&rsquo;s
-Household, 1679;&rdquo; so its lettering tells us.</p>
-<p>Going, one foggy night of that winter, perhaps from that
-Ashburnham House of which we have seen the site, he lost his way,
-slipped, and fell into the river; and would have been lost, good
-swimmer though he was, unable to see the shore, but that he heard
-this church clock strike nine, and so guided, swam safely toward
-it.&nbsp; He gave to the church, just then being rebuilt with
-Lady Cheyne&rsquo;s funds, this bell, with a sum sufficient to
-have it rung for five minutes every night at nine.&nbsp; So was
-done for many years&mdash;the ringer receiving &ldquo;a penny
-each night and a penny for his candle&rdquo;&mdash;until about
-half a century ago the fund <a name="page159"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 159</span>vanished, somehow, somewhere; and
-this bell has never been rung since!</p>
-<p>Outside, the tiny graveyard is crowded with slabs and
-monuments, many of them ugly, some curious, a few fine: from the
-stately stone tomb of Sir Hans Sloane and his wife&mdash;a marble
-urn entwisted with &AElig;sculapian serpents, under a marble
-canopy&mdash;to the simple slab, worn with wind and weather, of
-Dr. Chamberlayne and his family; of whom the daughter, Anne, more
-famous than any of the others, &ldquo;long declining wedlock, and
-aspiring above her sex and age, fought under her brother with
-arms and manly attire, in a fire-ship against the French, on the
-30th June, 1690: a maiden heroine!&rdquo;&nbsp; This &ldquo;Casta
-Virago&rdquo; was then but twenty-three, and did not grow in
-courage with her years; for she soon after consented to marry one
-John Spraggs, and then died!&nbsp; Here and there, amid unknown
-graves, we may find those of Magdalen Herbert; Mrs. Fletcher,
-wife of the Bishop of London, mother of the Fletcher of the
-famous firm &ldquo;Beaumont and Fletcher&rdquo;; Shadwell, the
-poet-laureate; Woodfall, the publisher of &ldquo;Junius&rdquo;;
-Sir John Fielding, the blind <a name="page160"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 160</span>magistrate of Bow Street,
-half-brother of the novelist.</p>
-<p>Amid these English names is written the name of an historic
-Frenchman; and his historic grave is hid somewhere in a corner of
-this churchyard, past finding out. <a name="citation160"></a><a
-href="#footnote160" class="citation">[160]</a>&nbsp; The church
-record reads: &ldquo;Burial&mdash;<span
-class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1740, May 18, Brigadier John
-Cavallier&rdquo;; and this dry detail of the interment of
-&ldquo;only an old officer, who had always behaved very
-bravely,&rdquo; is all that is told there of Jean Antoine
-Cavallier, the Camissard, the leader of the French Huguenots in
-their long, fierce fight against the cruel and lawless
-enforcement of Louis XIV.&rsquo;s Revocation of the Edict of
-Nantes; refusing to be apostatized, expatriated, or
-exterminated.&nbsp; They became the Covenanters of France, and
-Cavallier&mdash;a baker&rsquo;s apprentice, with a genuine genius
-for war, the soul of the strife, <a name="page161"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 161</span>elected their leader before he was
-twenty&mdash;was their Black Douglas: one even more furious and
-more ferocious.&nbsp; After fire and slaughter and pillage for
-two years; affronting the daylight, blazing up the night; amazing
-the whole world and horrifying their enemies; banded like bandits
-in the hills of Le Puy, singly like guerillas along the range of
-the Cevennes; praying, prophesying, slaying:&mdash;they were in
-the end circled about by the Grand Monarque&rsquo;s soldiery
-under Villars, shut out from Dutch and English aid, from escape
-by sea, forced to capitulate.&nbsp; Cavallier was let go to
-Jersey, was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of the island, and
-finally closed his stormy career peacefully in London.&nbsp; Here
-he lies, in an unknown grave, in this alien soil; and the
-C&eacute;venols, up in their hills, still talk of him and of his
-war two hundred years ago, to-day as if it were yesterday.</p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>As we stand here, the broad embankment, with its dainty
-gardens, stretches between us and the river; spanned just above
-by old Battersea Bridge, the only <a name="page162"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 162</span>wooden bridge left to the Thames,
-since that of Putney has gone.&nbsp; For centuries there had been
-a ferry just here, granted by James I. to some of his &ldquo;dear
-relations&rdquo; for &pound;40.&nbsp; In 1771 this bridge was
-built for foot-passengers only, was enlarged later, and is soon
-to be pulled down; its rude and reverend timbers are already
-propped up here and there.&nbsp; Stand midway on it with me,
-while the ceaseless stream of men flows by, caring nothing for
-that at which you and I are looking.</p>
-<p>On our right, along the southern shore, stretches Battersea
-Park, fringed with its great masses of cool foliage; where not
-long ago were marshes and meadows, and the barren, bleak,
-Battersea Fields.&nbsp; In those fields was fought the famous
-duel in 1829, between the Duke of Wellington and Lord
-Winchelsea.&nbsp; And long before that, in the reeds along that
-shore was hid Colonel Blood, intending to shoot Charles II. while
-bathing, as was the King&rsquo;s custom, &ldquo;in the Thames
-over against Chelsey; but his arm was checked by an awe of
-Majesty.&rdquo;&nbsp; So, at least, Blood had the impudence to
-narrate, when on his trial for his audacious and almost
-successful attempt to steal the royal regalia from the <a
-name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>Tower in
-May, 1671.&nbsp; Whether the King was touched by the narrative,
-or whether, as has been hinted, his impecunious Majesty was
-implicated in the plot to rob the crown; it is certain that he
-pardoned the daring adventurer, and gave him a yearly pension of
-&pound;500.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image164" href="images/p164b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Old Battersea Church, where Blake was married, showing the
-window from which Turner sketched"
-title=
-"Old Battersea Church, where Blake was married, showing the
-window from which Turner sketched"
- src="images/p164s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Beyond the Bridge, back of us, rises the square, squat tower
-of St. Mary&rsquo;s, Battersea, builded in the worst churchwarden
-style; and otherwise only notable for that therein was married
-Blake the madman; that there Turner loved to sit at the vestry
-window and sketch; and that there lie the remains and stand the
-magnificent monument of St. John Bolingbroke, and of his second
-wife, niece of Madame de Maintenon: both their epitaphs written
-by him.&nbsp; Not far from the church, on the river bank next to
-the mill, still stands one wing of the great seventy-roomed
-Bolingbroke House; in which St. John was born, to which he
-returned from his stormy exile, there to pass his remaining days
-in study, and there to die.&nbsp; Through its many old-time
-chambers with the famous &ldquo;sprawling Verrio&rsquo;s&rdquo;
-ceiling paintings, I will lead you into the historic cedar-room,
-on the river front&mdash;Bolingbroke&rsquo;s <a
-name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>favourite
-retreat, whose four walls, panelled with cedar from floor to
-ceiling, are still as redolent as when
-Pope&mdash;Bolingbroke&rsquo;s guest&mdash;began in it his
-&ldquo;Essay on Man,&rdquo; inspired thereto by his host; whose
-wit, scholarship, philosophy had, during his exile, inspired also
-Voltaire and made him own his master.&nbsp; Here in this room
-were wont to meet Bolingbroke and Pope, Chesterfield and
-Swift&mdash;that brilliant quartette who hated, plotted against,
-and attacked Walpole.&nbsp; His house&mdash;Sir
-Robert&rsquo;s&mdash;forms part of the great mass of Chelsea
-Hospital, dim in the distance before us; between, stretches the
-old Dutch front of Cheyne Walk, near at hand resolving itself
-into most ancient houses, with quaint windows in their sloping
-roofs; their red tiles and chocolate-brown bricks showing dark
-behind the green of the old lime-trees.&nbsp; The setting sun
-lingers lovingly on the square church tower, venerable with the
-mellow tints of time; and presently the moon comes up, washing
-out all these tints, except that of the white wall-tablets; and
-from out the grey mass shines the clock-face, even now striking
-nine, as it did for the &ldquo;Hon. William,&rdquo; just then
-soused in <a name="page169"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-169</span>the river, more than two hundred years ago.&nbsp;
-Farther beyond the bridge are two buildings, which also bring the
-old and the new close together; the &ldquo;World&rsquo;s End
-Tavern,&rdquo; at the end of the passage of that name, famous
-three centuries ago as a rendezvous for improper pleasure
-parties, and introduced in Congreve&rsquo;s &ldquo;Love for
-Love,&rdquo; in that connection.&nbsp; Just west of the sedate
-little &ldquo;public,&rdquo; &ldquo;The Aquatic Stores,&rdquo;
-are two tiny houses set back from the embankment; stone steps
-lead down to their minute front gardens; vines clamber up the
-front of the westernmost house to an iron balcony on its
-roof.&nbsp; That balcony was put there for his own convenience by
-Joseph Mallord William Turner, the painter; in that house, No.
-119, Cheyne Walk, he lived for many years, and in that front room
-he died, on the 18th December, 1851.&nbsp; To that upper window,
-no longer able to paint, too feeble to walk, he was wheeled every
-morning during his last days that he might lose no light of the
-winter sun on his beloved Thames.&nbsp; In Battersea Church you
-may sit in the little vestry window wherein he was wont to
-sketch.&nbsp; The story of his <a name="page170"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 170</span>escape from his grand and gloomy
-mansion in Queen Anne Street, is well known; he never returned to
-it, but made his home here with the burly Mrs. Booth.&nbsp; After
-long hunting, his aged housekeeper, in company with another
-decrepid dame, found him in hiding, only the day before his
-death.&nbsp; The barber&rsquo;s son of Maiden Lane lies in the
-great cathedral of St. Paul&rsquo;s, and the evil that he did is
-buried with him&mdash;his eccentricity, his madness if you
-will&mdash;but he lives for all time, as the greatest landscape
-painter England has known.</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image167" href="images/p167b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"The Western End of Cheyne Walk"
-title=
-"The Western End of Cheyne Walk"
- src="images/p167s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>The long summer afternoon is waning, and the western sky,
-flaming with fading fires, floods broad Chelsea Reach with waves
-of dusky gold.&nbsp; The evening mist rises slowly, as yet hiding
-nothing, but transforming even commonplace objects in a weird
-unwonted way.&nbsp; Those pretentious blocks of new mansions loom
-almost lordly now; that distant railway bridge is only a ghost of
-graceful glimmering arches; money-making factory chimneys and
-commercial wharves pretend to picturesque possibilities; clumpish
-barges, sprawling <a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-173</span>on the mud, are no longer ugly; and a broad-bottomed
-coasting schooner, unloading stone at a dock, is just what we
-would choose to see there.&nbsp; And here at the end of this
-bridge is a fragment of &ldquo;real old Chelsea,&rdquo; left
-intact for our delectation&mdash;a cluster of drooping trees on
-the bank, an unaccountable boat-house, stone steps leading down
-to the bit of beach, whereon are skiffs drawn up, and cordage
-lying about, and sail-wrapped spars.&nbsp; Out on the placid
-Reach there is but little movement; the river steamboats are
-anchored in a dark mass near the shore, and the last belated one
-edges up to its mooring beside them for the night; a burly barge
-drifts slowly by under its dusky brown sails, or a
-&ldquo;dumb-barge&rdquo; floats with the tide, its crew of one
-man busied with his long sculls and his not-dumb blasphemy; a
-puffing tug with a red light in its nose drags tortuously a long
-line of tarpaulin-covered canal boats.&nbsp; As each of these
-moving objects breaks the burnished waves into bits of golden
-gloom, the whole still surface of the stream becomes alive for us
-with a fairy flotilla, born of the brain, yet real enough to our
-vision.&nbsp; There float ancient barges, six and eight-oared, <a
-name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 174</span>gorgeous
-with gilding or severely simple; those of brilliant noblemen, of
-the City guilds, of Royalty itself.&nbsp; We seem to see Henry
-VIII. rowing up, on a visit to More; Elizabeth coming to call on
-Lord Charles Howard of Effingham, him who scattered the
-&ldquo;Spanyard&rsquo;s Invinsable Navye&rdquo; for her; the
-first Charles, impatient to dote on his &ldquo;dear
-Steenie.&rdquo;&nbsp; Even the commonest of these curious craft
-is freighted, for our fancy, with a nameless cargo, not on its
-bills of lading.&nbsp; So do we gaze across the river of Time
-that flows between us and the group of famous men and historic
-women, moving in the twilight of the past on Chelsea&rsquo;s
-shore.&nbsp; And we ask, with Marcus Piso, friend of the younger
-Cicero: &ldquo;Is it by some mutual instinct, or through some
-delusion, that when we see the very spots where famous men have
-lived, we are far more touched than when we hear of the things
-that they have done, or read something that they have
-written?&nbsp; It is thus that I am affected at this
-moment.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image171" href="images/p171b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Turner&rsquo;s last dwelling-place"
-title=
-"Turner&rsquo;s last dwelling-place"
- src="images/p171s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p>Here walks Sir Thomas More with his wife and daughters; here
-George Herbert muses &ldquo;with a far <a
-name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>look in his
-immortal eyes;&rdquo; here come Donne and Isaac Walton to visit
-his mother, Magdalen Herbert.&nbsp; Swift strolls here, alone as
-he likes best; he has been looking at the hay-makers, just
-inshore above, in the hot summer day, and is about to bathe in
-the river&mdash;the &ldquo;more than Oriental scrupulosity&rdquo;
-of his bodily care contrasting so keenly with his fondness for
-moral filth.&nbsp; Here come his friend Atterbury, the learned
-theologian, from his great garden in Church Lane; and Dr.
-Arbuthnott, Queen Anne&rsquo;s famous physician; and another
-noted doctor, Sir John Shadwell, father of the poet
-laureate.&nbsp; Locke leaves the summer-house in the Earl of
-Shaftesbury&rsquo;s garden, just above where now is St.
-George&rsquo;s Workhouse: he has just begun his great essay,
-while living here as tutor for the son.&nbsp; Pym, Charles&rsquo;
-enemy, who lives on the waterside, stops to look at learned Sir
-Joseph Banks, who, after a stormy voyage around the world with
-Captain Cook, now tranquilly sits fishing here; Samuel Johnson
-strides buoyantly by to his china-making or plods pensively back,
-downcast with his failure; Hans Sloane walks arm-in-arm with his
-friend Sir Isaac Newton, who has <a name="page178"></a><span
-class="pagenum">p. 178</span>come out here from his house in
-Leicester Square; behind them saunter Addison and Dick Steele,
-and a more queerly-consorted couple, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas
-Carlyle.&nbsp; St. Evremonde goes with one strangely resembling
-him superficially&mdash;Leigh Hunt, who lived at the present No.
-10, Upper Cheyne Row; and who, &ldquo;with his delicate, worn,
-but keenly intellectual face, his large luminous eyes, his thick
-shock of wiry grey hair, and little cape of faded black silk over
-his shoulders, looks like an old French abb&eacute;.&rdquo;&nbsp;
-Shelley is near them, having come a long way from his lodgings in
-Hans Place; where he has for a neighbour a certain Joseph
-Balsamo, calling himself the Count Cagliostro, living in Sloane
-Street.&nbsp; The Dandy D&rsquo;Orsay cautiously threads his way,
-for he is in hiding from his creditors.&nbsp; Turner passes,
-gazing on his river; and Maclise, who lives here on the bank and
-dies here too, painting the Thames.&nbsp; Dante Gabriel Rossetti
-and his near neighbour George Eliot go by; and, last of all,
-Henry Kingsley with the boy Joe Burton, whom he loves, and whom
-we love, too.</p>
-<p>The puffing tug shrieks, and puts to flight these <a
-name="page179"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 179</span>vagrant
-fancies of an American, sentimentalizing in Chelsea; and so ends
-his stroll, his returning footsteps echoing the words of Goethe,
-and reminding him that, after all, &ldquo;You find in Rome only
-what you take there.&rdquo;</p>
-<p style="text-align: center">
-<a name="image176" href="images/p176b.jpg">
-<img alt=
-"Battersea bridge and Church from Turner&rsquo;s house"
-title=
-"Battersea bridge and Church from Turner&rsquo;s house"
- src="images/p176s.jpg" />
-</a></p>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">THE
-END.</span></p>
-<h2><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-181</span>INDEX.</h2>
-<p><span class="smcap">Abbey</span>, Westminster, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Absalom and Achitophel,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Addison, Joseph, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Albert Suspension Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Alcyon,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-<p>Alma, Battle of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>Almshouses, Lady Dacre&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>Anne, Queen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>Apsley House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
-<p>Aquatic Shores, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>Arbuthnot, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>Armada, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>Armida, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
-<p>Aschyly, Katherine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
-<p>Ashburnham, Hon. Wm., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page158">158</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
-<p>Ashe, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Aspasia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Astell, Mary, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Atterbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>Aubrey, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
-<p>Augustine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
-<p>Australia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page147">147</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Badajos</span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>Balaclava, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>Balsamo, Joseph, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Banks, Sir Joseph, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>Barbican, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p>Barley, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>Bartholomew Close, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
-<p>Basle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
-<p>Bastille, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Battersea Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Church, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page76">76</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Beaufort, Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>,, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p>Beaumont, Francis, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; and Fletcher, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Becke, Mrs. Betty, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Beggar&rsquo;s Opera,&rdquo; The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>Belgravia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>Bishop&rsquo;s Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Black House,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-182</span>Blackfriars Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
-<p>Blacklands, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-<p>Blake, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>Blenheim, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
-<p>Blessington, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
-<p>Blood, Colonel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Bloody Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
-<p>Bloomfield, Robert, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Bloomsbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page120">120</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>Blunt, Rev. Gerald, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
-<p>Boleyn, Anne, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
-<p>Bolingbroke House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>,, St. John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>Booth, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
-<p>Botanic Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>Bow Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Bowack, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
-<p>Braganza, Catherine of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Bramah, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Bray, Edmund, Knight, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
-<p>Bristol, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
-<p>Britons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Brown, Ford Madox, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>Browne, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span></p>
-<p>Brunel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Brussels, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
-<p>Buckingham, 1st Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>,, 2nd &bdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
-<p>Bucklersbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p>Bulwer, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
-<p>Bun House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>Burleigh, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Burlington, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>Burney, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Fanny, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Burton, Emma, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
-<p>,, &ldquo;Jim,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page152">152</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; &ldquo;Joe,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Butterfly Alley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-<p>Byron, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Cadogan</span>, Doctor, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-<p>C&aelig;sar, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Cagliostro, Count, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Camden House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p>Camera Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-<p>Camissards, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Canterbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
-<p>Carberry, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Carlyle, Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page137">137</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Caroline, Queen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>Carolina, North, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
-<p>Catherine of Braganza, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Cavallier, Jean Antoine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Cavendish, Sir Wm., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>Cecil, Lord Robert, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Cedars of Lebanon, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
-<p>Cevennes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>C&eacute;venols, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Chamberlayne, Anne, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-183</span>Chamberlayne, Doctor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Chancery Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>Charles I., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; II., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page64">64</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Charlotte, Queen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>Charterhouse, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>Chatsworth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Chaucer, Geoffrey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Chelsea, &ldquo;direct connection with London,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page13">13</a></span>;
-&ldquo;Village of Palaces,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>; &ldquo;A quiet country
-village,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page18">18</a></span>; ancient aspect, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page19">19</a></span>&ndash;23;
-causes of its early settlement, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>; earliest history, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page33">33</a></span>; etymology of
-name, <span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page33">33</a></span>;
-present appearance, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>&ndash;31; mentioned, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page13">13</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page31">31</a></span>&ndash;34,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page80">80</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page85">85</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page89">89</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page102">102</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page120">120</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page129">129</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page130">130</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page131">131</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page146">146</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page148">148</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page149">149</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page153">153</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page154">154</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page173">173</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page174">174</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
-<p>Chelsea Barracks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Bun House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; China Factory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Church, Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; &bdquo; St. Luke&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Farm, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Hermit of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Historian of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page82">82</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Little, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Manor House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Pensioner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; &ldquo;Physick Garden,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Reach, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page173">173</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Rectory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Suspension Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
-<p>Chelsey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Colledge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Viscount, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
-<p>Cheltenham Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
-<p>Cherbury, Lord Herbert of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>Chesterfield, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>Cheyne, Lady Jane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Row, Great, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; ,, Little, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>,, ,, Upper, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Walk, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page114">114</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page120">120</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page126">126</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page137">137</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>Chillianwallah, Battle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
-<p>China Factory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p>Chiswick, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>Christchurch Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p>Chudleigh, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Church Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-184</span>Church, Old Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
-<p>Cicero, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Citizen of the World,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Coldstream Guards, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Colet, Dean, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>College, King James&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page76">76</a></span></p>
-<p>Colorado, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>Commonwealth, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Cond&eacute;, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Congreve, William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Connoisseur,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Cook, Captain, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Covenanters, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Craufield, Earl of Middlesex, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Cremorne, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Viscount, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>Cressy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p>Cromwell, Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>Cross, Mrs. John Walter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
-<p>Cubitt, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>Cuckfield, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
-<p>Cummings, Polly, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
-<p>Cunningham, Peter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Dacre</span>, Lady, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page49">49</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page154">154</a></span></p>
-<p>Dacre&rsquo;s, Lady, Almshouses, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>Danvers House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-<p>Davies, Rev. R. H., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Dawson, Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>Dead March, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>De Foe, Daniel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>Devonshire, Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Dickens, Charles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>Dissolution, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-<p>Doggett, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Don Quixote, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Don Saltero, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>Donne, Dr. John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>D&rsquo;Orsay, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Douglas, Black, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Drury Lane Theatre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p>Druse, Mr., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
-<p>Dryden, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Duck Island, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Dutch War, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-<p>Duke of York&rsquo;s School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Duke&rsquo;s Head,&rdquo; The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p>Dunbar, Battle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Earl&rsquo;s</span> Court, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Eddystone Lighthouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
-<p>Edge Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-<p>Edict of Nantes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Edward the Confessor, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>,, VII., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
-<p>Eliot, George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-185</span>Elizabeth, Princess, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page115">115</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Queen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>Elizabeth&rsquo;s, Queen, Guard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
-<p>Embankment, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Erasmus, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page40">40</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
-<p>Esmond, Harry, Colonel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Essay on Man,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>Essex, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Evelina,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Evelyn, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
-<p>Eversleigh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
-<p>Evremond, St., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Fairfax</span>, General, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Faulkner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Ferdinand Count Fathom,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>Fetter Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Fielding, Henry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Fire Fields, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
-<p>Fletcher, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>,, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Flimnap, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>Flood Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Folly,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>Fox, Sir Stephen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
-<p>Foxe&rsquo;s &ldquo;Martyrology,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
-<p>Franklin, Benjamin, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>French Gardeners, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
-<p>Fry, Elizabeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
-<p>Fulham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
-<p>Fuller&rsquo;s &ldquo;Worthies,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
-<p>Furnivall&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Galloway</span>, Count, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
-<p>Garrick, David, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Gay, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>Geflitfullic, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Geoffrey Hamlyn,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page147">147</a></span></p>
-<p>George I., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; II., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
-<p>,, III., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; IV., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span></p>
-<p>George and Garter, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
-<p>Gibbons, Grinling, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
-<p>Giggs, Margery, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>Glebe Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>Gloucester, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-<p>Godfrey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span></p>
-<p>Godolphin, Sydney, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
-<p>Goethe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page179">179</a></span></p>
-<p>Goldsmith, Oliver, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Gorbudic,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
-<p>Gore House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
-<p>Gorges, Sir Arthur, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-<p>Gothic House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
-<p>Gough House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Grand Monarque, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-186</span>Granville, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
-<p>Great Cheyne Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page137">137</a></span></p>
-<p>Green Arbour Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Grey, Lady Jane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
-<p>Grocyn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>Guilds, City, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>Gwynne, Nell, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Gwynne, Nell,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Hall</span>, Mrs. S. C., <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
-<p>Hallam, Henry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
-<p>Halle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Hamilton, Duchess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Sir William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>Hampstead, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
-<p>Hampton Court, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Hanover, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Hans Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Town, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-<p>Hardwick, Elizabeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Hastings, Lady Elizabeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
-<p>Hedderly, J., the photographer, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
-<p>Henry VIII., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page117">117</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; &bdquo; Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
-<p>Herbert, George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Lord of Cherbury, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Magdalen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Herkomer, Hubert, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Hermit of Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>Herrnhuters, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
-<p>Hervey, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>Heywood, Ellis, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span></p>
-<p>Hill, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Hillyars and Burtons,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page149">149</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
-<p>Hoadley, Bishop, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Hogarth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Holbein, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
-<p>Holborn Viaduct Station, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Holland, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span></p>
-<p>,, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-<p>House of Commons, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
-<p>Howard of Effingham, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>Huguenots, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Hume&rsquo;s &ldquo;History of England,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Humphrey Clinker,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Hundred of Ossulston, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Hunt, Leigh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Hunter, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">India</span> House, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
-<p>Infirmary, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page82">82</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>Inkerman, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>Invalides, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span></p>
-<p>Islington, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p>&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Jacob Faithful</span>,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
-<p>Jacobites, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>Jacobs, Mrs. Mary, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
-<p>Jamaica, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>James I., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-187</span>Jersey, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Jewish Burial Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>Jew&rsquo;s Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>Jones, Inigo, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p>Johnson, Samuel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Junius,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Justice Walk, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p>Justina, Maria, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Kensal</span> Green, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>Kensington, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>,, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p>King&rsquo;s Bench, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page115">115</a></span></p>
-<p>King James&rsquo;s College, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page77">77</a></span></p>
-<p>Kingsley, Charles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page148">148</a></span></p>
-<p>,, George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Henry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>&ndash;150, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Rev. Charles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>Knightsbridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
-<p>Knipp, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Knyff, L., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Lacy</span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p>Lamb, Charles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Lady Caroline, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
-<p>Landon, Letitia E., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
-<p>Lawrence family, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page156">156</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Sir Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Manor House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Lawson, Cecil, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Lay of the Last Minstrel,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>Le Puy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Leicester, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Lely, Sir Peter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Linacre, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>Lincoln&rsquo;s Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>Lindsey, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Little Britain, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Cheyne Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Locke, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>London, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page13">13</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page152">152</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>London Bridge, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Louis XIV., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Love for Love,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>Lover&rsquo;s Walk, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
-<p>Lucknow, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>Lysons, Samuel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Macaulay</span>, T. B., <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-<p>Maclise, Daniel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-188</span>&ldquo;Magpie and Stump,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>Maiden Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
-<p>Maintenon, Madame de, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>Mancini, Hortensia, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
-<p>Manor House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Lawrence, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>Marryat, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
-<p>Martyrology, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page158">158</a></span></p>
-<p>Marvell, Andrew, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
-<p>Mary Queen of Scots, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
-<p>Mazarin, Cardinal, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Duchess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page94">94</a></span></p>
-<p>Melford, Jerry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Mercians, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Millbank, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
-<p>Millman&rsquo;s Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>Milton, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p><i>Mirror</i>, <i>New York</i>, The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Mirror of Literature,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Mitford, Mary Russell, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
-<p>Monk, General, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Monmouth, Duchess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>,, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>Montague, Edward, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>,, &ldquo;Lady Mary Wortley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Monthly Recorder,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-<p>Moravian Burial Ground, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page54">54</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p>Moravians, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span></p>
-<p>More, Sir Thomas: his house, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span>; its site, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page37">37</a></span>; its gardens,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page37">37</a></span>; its
-gatehouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>; the &ldquo;newe buildinge,&rdquo;
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page133">133</a></span>; his
-religious zeal, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page39">39</a></span>; his wit, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page40">40</a></span>; his
-&ldquo;Utopia,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span>; his family and friends, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page40">40</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page41">41</a></span>; his career,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page47">47</a></span>; his
-downfall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span>; death, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page43">43</a></span>; grave, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>; monument, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page153">153</a></span>; existing
-relics of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>&ndash;54, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span>; portraits
-of, <span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page47">47</a></span>,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page48">48</a></span>;
-quotations from, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page40">40</a></span>; mentioned, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page41">41</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page47">47</a></span>&ndash;49,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page54">54</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page112">112</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page133">133</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page151">151</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page153">153</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>Moric&aelig;, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>Morten, Cardinal, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>Munden, Vice-Admiral, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>Museum, British, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
-<p>Myddleton, Sir Hugh, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">National Portrait Gallery</span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page48">48</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
-<p>New England, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Inn, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; River, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
-<p>Newgate, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Newton, Sir Isaac, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Niagara, Shooting,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>Norfolk, Duchess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-189</span>Norfolk, Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
-<p>Normans, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-<p>North American Colonies, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
-<p>Northumberland, Duchess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>Nostell Priory, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Oakley</span> Street, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Oak-Apple Day, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
-<p>Offa, King, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Old Church, Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page53">53</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page151">151</a></span></p>
-<p>Old Magpye Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>Oldcoates, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Orford, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>Ormond Row, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p>Ossulston, Hundred of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
-<p>Oxford, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Paradise Row</span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page86">86</a></span>&ndash;89,
-<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page93">93</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Parr, Catherine, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page115">115</a></span>&ndash;118</p>
-<p>Paulton Terrace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>Paultons Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span></p>
-<p>Pelham, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>Penn, Granville, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>,, William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>Pennsylvania, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span></p>
-<p>Pepys, Samuel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page67">67</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Petersham, Lady Caroline, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Pimlico, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>Piozzi, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-<p>Poet&rsquo;s Corner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Poictiers, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p>Polyphilus, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
-<p>Pope, Alexander, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>Pound Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>Pretender, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
-<p>Prince Rupert, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Prince of Wales,&rdquo; The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p>Putney, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page150">150</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Pym, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Queen</span> Anne Architecture, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-<p>,, &bdquo; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Elizabeth&rsquo;s Place, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
-<p>Queen&rsquo;s Elm, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page114">114</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Road, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Radnor</span>, Earl of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Rambler,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
-<p>Ranelagh, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page77">77</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page77">77</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Stairs, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>Reade, Charles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
-<p>Rectory, Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>Red Lion Passage, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Reformation, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page157">157</a></span></p>
-<p>Renatus, Christian, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page54">54</a></span></p>
-<p>Restoration, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page62">62</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
-<p>Reuss, Countess, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-190</span>Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page91">91</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page160">160</a></span></p>
-<p>Reynolds, Sir Joshua, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Ricci, Sebastian, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Richard III., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p>Richmond, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
-<p>Robarte, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>Roberts, Miss, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
-<p>Robinson&rsquo;s Lane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>Rochester, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page87">87</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page91">91</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Roderick Random,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span></p>
-<p>Romans, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page28">28</a></span></p>
-<p>Roper, Margaret, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page43">43</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page45">45</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page133">133</a></span></p>
-<p>Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page114">114</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page112">112</a></span></p>
-<p>Royal Academy, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Hospital, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Society, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>Rupert, Prince, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page70">70</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">St. Albans</span>, Duke of, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page87">87</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Dunstan&rsquo;s, Canterbury, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; ,, in the West, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Evremond, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; George&rsquo;s Workhouse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; James&rsquo;s Palace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
-<p>,, ,, Park, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>,, ,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Katherine&rsquo;s Docks, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p>St. Lawrence, Old Jewry, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Loo, Sir William, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Luke&rsquo;s, Chelsea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Mary&rsquo;s, Battersea, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Paul&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span></p>
-<p>,, ,, School, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
-<p>Sackville, Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page49">49</a></span></p>
-<p>Salisbury, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Saltero, Don, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page121">121</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Saltero&rsquo;s, Don,&rdquo; <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
-<p>Sandford Manor House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
-<p>Sand&rsquo;s End, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
-<p>Sandwich, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page86">86</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page88">88</a></span></p>
-<p>School of Discipline, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page90">90</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Duke of York&rsquo;s, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span></p>
-<p>Scott, Sir Walter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>Seddon, John P., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page109">109</a></span></p>
-<p>Selwyn, George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Sepoy Mutiny, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
-<p>S&egrave;vres, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p>Seymour, Admiral, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page115">115</a></span>&ndash;117</p>
-<p>Shadwell, Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Thomas, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Shaftesbury, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>Shelley, Percy Bysshe, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page32">32</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Shore, Jane, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
-<p>Shrewsbury, Countess of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>Sidney, Sir Philip, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Slaves of Virtue,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-191</span>Sloane, Elizabeth, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page120">120</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Hans, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page106">106</a></span></p>
-<p>,, ,, Sir, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span>&ndash;120, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page159">159</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Square, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page96">96</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Smith Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p>Smollett, Tobias, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page138">138</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page142">142</a></span></p>
-<p>Society of Apothecaries, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page101">101</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Royal, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page69">69</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page119">119</a></span></p>
-<p>Somerset, the Protector, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page117">117</a></span></p>
-<p><i>Spectator</i>, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page80">80</a></span></p>
-<p>Spenser, Edmund, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-<p>Spilsberg, Convent of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page39">39</a></span></p>
-<p>Spraggs, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Spring Gardens, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-<p>Stanley, Dean, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page152">152</a></span></p>
-<p>,, House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page63">63</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Steenie,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page174">174</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Stella,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span></p>
-<p>Steele, Sir Richard, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Sterne, Laurence, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Strype, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>Suffolk Street, Pall Mall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
-<p>Sunderland, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
-<p>Swan House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; &ldquo;Walk,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Swan, Old,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Swan,&rdquo; The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Swift, Jonathan, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page97">97</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page177">177</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Tangiers</span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page69">69</a></span></p>
-<p><i>Tatler</i>, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page122">122</a></span></p>
-<p>Taverns:</p>
-<p class="gutindent">Aquatic Stores, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Black Horse, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Chelsea Pensioner, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Don Saltero&rsquo;s, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page122">122</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page125">125</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Duke&rsquo;s Head, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page89">89</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Magpie and Stump, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page126">126</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page130">130</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Nell Gwynne, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page66">66</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Prince of Wales, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page132">132</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">Swan, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page19">19</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">&bdquo; Old, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p class="gutindent">World&rsquo;s End, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>Thackeray, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
-<p>Thames, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page31">31</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Thames Watermen, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page105">105</a></span></p>
-<p>Thomson, James, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
-<p>Threadneedle Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page46">46</a></span></p>
-<p>Tite Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Tothill Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>Tours, Archbishop of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page102">102</a></span></p>
-<p>Tower, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page154">154</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Chapel, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Hill, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Wharf, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;Tracts and Letters,&rdquo; <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
-<p>Trinobantes, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
-<p><a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
-192</span>Turenne, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page93">93</a></span></p>
-<p>Turner, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page169">169</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page170">170</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Twickenham, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>Tyndale, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page153">153</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Vale</span>, The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
-<p>Vanbrugh, Sir John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page83">83</a></span></p>
-<p>Vanhomrigh, Mrs., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page24">24</a></span></p>
-<p>Vauxhall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span></p>
-<p>Verrio, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page165">165</a></span></p>
-<p>Versailles, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Victoria Hospital for Children, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page98">98</a></span></p>
-<p>Village of Palaces, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
-<p>Villars, Marshall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
-<p>Villiers, George, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page51">51</a></span></p>
-<p>Voltaire, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page92">92</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Waller</span>, Edmund, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page111">111</a></span></p>
-<p>Walpole, Horace, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page78">78</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; House, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page84">84</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Lady, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page85">85</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Sir Robert, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page79">79</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span>&ndash;85, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page89">89</a></span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page166">166</a></span></p>
-<p>&bdquo; Street, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page81">81</a></span></p>
-<p>Walton, Isaac, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page134">134</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
-<p>Wargrave, Henley-on-Thames, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
-<p>Warwick, Earl of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page34">34</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page65">65</a></span></p>
-<p>Waterloo, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Wellington, Duke of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Westminster, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page33">33</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page155">155</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
-<p>Whitehall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page20">20</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page129">129</a></span></p>
-<p>William and Mary, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page37">37</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span></p>
-<p>William Rufus&rsquo;s Hall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
-<p>Willis, N. P., <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
-<p>Wilkes, John, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page141">141</a></span></p>
-<p>Wilkie, the Painter, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page74">74</a></span></p>
-<p>Winchelsea, Lord, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page162">162</a></span></p>
-<p>Winchester, Bishop of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page131">131</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Marquis of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page145">145</a></span></p>
-<p>Windsor Castle, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page48">48</a></span></p>
-<p>Winstanley, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page118">118</a></span></p>
-<p>Wolsey, Cardinal, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page42">42</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page113">113</a></span></p>
-<p>Woodfall, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page159">159</a></span></p>
-<p>Worcester, Battle of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page68">68</a></span></p>
-<p>,, College, Oxford, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page146">146</a></span></p>
-<p>,, Marquis of, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page52">52</a></span></p>
-<p>&ldquo;World&rsquo;s End,&rdquo; The, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page169">169</a></span></p>
-<p>Wren, Sir Christopher, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page73">73</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
-<p>Wyatt family, The, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page149">149</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Yorkshire</span>, <span
-class="indexpageno"><a href="#page79">79</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p><span class="smcap">Zimri</span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page50">50</a></span></p>
-<p>Zinzendorf, Count, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page54">54</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page57">57</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
-href="#page58">58</a></span></p>
-
-<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
-<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">UNWIN
-BROTHERS, THE GRESHAM PRESS, CHILWORTH AND LONDON.</span></p>
-<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2>
-<p><a name="footnote26"></a><a href="#citation26"
-class="footnote">[26]</a>&nbsp; This illustration and those on
-pages 114 and 123, have been made from photographs by J.
-Hedderly, and are admirable specimens of the many taken by him
-during a long and laborious life, and which have genuine artistic
-merit as well as historic value in their preservation of the
-features of Old Chelsea.&nbsp; Hedderly&rsquo;s was the curious
-case of a man living for fifty years in daily contact with the
-ancient and the odd, and yet always keen to appreciate it and
-accurate in seizing it.&nbsp; On his death, in 1885, his plates
-went to his daughter, and the photographs can be bought from
-George White, Printer, 396, King&rsquo;s Road, just at the end of
-Park Walk: by whose permission these photographs have been
-re-drawn.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote31"></a><a href="#citation31"
-class="footnote">[31]</a>&nbsp; One of her school-mates here, by
-the way, was that Miss Roberts who wrote so well about India;
-another was Lady Caroline Lamb, heroine of the scissors-stabbing
-scene for Byron&rsquo;s sake.&nbsp; And among other scholars here
-at other times we find names famous in later life, as that of
-Lady Bulwer, of Mrs. S. C. Hall, of Miss Mary Russell
-Mitford.&nbsp; The latter lady lived for several years after her
-school days at No. 33, Hans Place.&nbsp; In No. 41 lodged Percy
-Bysshe Shelley, at one time.&nbsp; These two last-named houses
-have been raised two stories, and renewed; while Nos. 22 and 25
-have been recently torn down and rebuilt.&nbsp; Thus every house
-in Hans Place having historic association has been ruined for us,
-and others of no interest from our point of view in this stroll
-are left intact in their age&mdash;a queer fatality which I find
-to have pursued too many buildings of old London!</p>
-<p><a name="footnote48"></a><a href="#citation48"
-class="footnote">[48]</a>&nbsp; The painting in the National
-Portrait Gallery is a copy by an unknown&mdash;withal a
-skilful&mdash;hand, of Holbein&rsquo;s crayon sketch, now in
-Windsor Castle.&nbsp; Its most striking feature is More&rsquo;s
-mouth: these lips seem to speak to us at once with sweetness and
-with sternness.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote57"></a><a href="#citation57"
-class="footnote">[57]</a>&nbsp; In our reproduction of this rare
-print in the British Museum of about the year 1682, Lindsey House
-is seen on the river bank at the extreme left; behind it is a
-building in the Dutch style, concerning which I can find no
-record anywhere; More&rsquo;s mansion stands on the slope
-half-way up to King&rsquo;s Road, in the midst of its
-&ldquo;great extent of profitable garden and pleasure
-ground;&rdquo; behind and to its left are the stables and
-out-buildings.&nbsp; Just beyond King&rsquo;s Road, on the left,
-may be seen the small settlement named then and known now as
-&ldquo;Little Chelsea.&rdquo;&nbsp; In the far distance, rise, on
-their wooded slopes, Holland, Camden, and Kensington
-Houses.&nbsp; The gate-house of Inigo Jones shows plainly towards
-the front, and from it the broad walk&mdash;now Beaufort
-Street&mdash;leads to the river and the ferry, just at the spot
-where now springs Battersea Bridge.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote58"></a><a href="#citation58"
-class="footnote">[58]</a>&nbsp; You may see a picture of such a
-scene&mdash;the sermon to a group of negroes&mdash;in the old
-Moravian chapel in Fetter Lane.&nbsp; Here, too, are many relics
-of interest of the man: his chair, with claw feet and curious
-carvings; his queer old-German Hymn-book, printed in 1566, with
-metal clasps and corners; and his portrait, life-size and in
-oil.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote80"></a><a href="#citation80"
-class="footnote">[80]</a>&nbsp; There lies on my desk, as I
-write, a copper token, which I lately picked up in a shabby shop
-of Red Lion Passage, High Holborn.&nbsp; It is about the size of
-a penny piece, and on it is stamped &ldquo;<span
-class="smcap">Ranelagh House</span>, 1745:&rdquo; these raised
-letters as clearly cut as on the day when coined.&nbsp; It
-pleases me to wonder which and how many of the men I mention
-above may have handed in this piece at the entrance gate.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote91"></a><a href="#citation91"
-class="footnote">[91]</a>&nbsp; Henri, Marquis of Ruvigny, fled
-from France on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, came to
-England, was here naturalized, and received the title of Count of
-Galloway.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote109"></a><a href="#citation109"
-class="footnote">[109]</a>&nbsp; In the embankment garden, just
-in front, has lately been placed a memorial to the poet and
-painter: his bust in bronze modelled by Ford Madox Brown, the
-painter, surmounting a graceful drinking fountain designed by
-John P. Seddon, the architect; both life-long friends of
-Rossetti.</p>
-<p><a name="footnote125"></a><a href="#citation125"
-class="footnote">[125]</a>&nbsp; This house was kept, in 1790, by
-a Mrs. Mary Jacob, a New England woman, and I have seen a letter
-from her to her brother in America, in which she says, in her
-old-fashioned spelling: &ldquo;I keap a Coffe Hous, which I can
-Scarcely macke a bit of Bred for myself, but it Ennabels me to
-keep a home for my Sons.&rdquo;&nbsp; This letter is prized as a
-relic by the family, none of whom have any notion of how
-&ldquo;Polly Cummings&rdquo;&mdash;her maiden name in New
-England&mdash;found her way to Chelsea and to Don
-Saltero&rsquo;s!</p>
-<p><a name="footnote160"></a><a href="#citation160"
-class="footnote">[160]</a>&nbsp; I quote this sentence from a
-letter sent to me by the Reverend R. H. Davies, Incumbent of the
-Old Church, Chelsea, to whom I am indebted for courtesies in this
-connection: &ldquo;To my mind, there is no doubt that his grave
-is somewhere in the open part of the churchyard; but, as the
-grave-stone has disappeared, it would be too great a work to
-excavate the whole with the hope of finding the
-coffin-plate.&rdquo;</p>
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OLD CHELSEA***
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