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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e620bd9 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #63012 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63012) diff --git a/old/63012-8.txt b/old/63012-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 64d9222..0000000 --- a/old/63012-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1670 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. -III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891, by Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891 - -Author: Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -Release Date: August 22, 2020 [EBook #63012] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - - - - -Produced by Ron Swanson - - - - - -VOL. III. PP. 1-30, PL. 1, MARCH 28, 1891 - -THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE - - - - -SOUTH AMERICA - -ANNUAL ADDRESS BY THE PRESIDENT - -GARDINER G. HUBBARD - - - - -WASHINGTON - -PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY - -Price, 25 Cents. - - -{1} - - -VOL. III, PP 1-30, PL 1., MARCH 28, 1891. - -THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE - - - - -SOUTH AMERICA. - -ANNUAL ADDRESS BY THE PRESIDENT, - -GARDINER G. HUBBARD. - -(_Presented to the Society December 19, 1890._) - - -Two years ago I selected for my annual address _Africa, or the Dark -Continent_; last year _Asia, the Land of Mountains and Deserts_; this -year I have chosen _South America, the Land of Rivers and Pampas_. - -[Illustration: VOL. III, 1891, PL. 1. SOUTH AMERICA. From the -International Cylopedia, by permission of Dodd, Mead & Company.] - - * * * * * - -The recent meeting of the Pan-American Congress has called attention -to South America, a part of our continent under republican forms of -government and rich in products which we lack, while it relies mainly -on other foreign countries for goods which we manufacture. North -America and South America should be more closely united, for the one -is the complement of the other. - -The prominent features of South America are its long ranges of -mountains--next to the Himalayas the highest in the world,--its great -valley, and its immense plateau extending from the Straits of Magellan -to the Caribbean sea. - - -THE MOUNTAINS. - -The Andes rise in the extreme south at Cape Horn, run in a -northerly course through Patagonia and southern Chili; thence -continuing in three nearly parallel ranges, the western chain called -the Andes, the others known as the Cordilleras, through Peru, {2} -Bolivia and Ecuador to Colombia. The Cordilleras and the Andes are -connected in several places by knots or cross-chains of mountains. In -Colombia the Andes turn to the northwest, reaching their lowest -elevation at the Panama canal, and continue thence, through Central -America and North America as the Rocky Mountains, to the Arctic ocean. -Near the source of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers in Colombia, the -eastern range is deflected to the east along the northern coast of -South America. The central range disappears between the Magdalena and -Cauca rivers. - -The Andes form the water-shed of the continent. The waters on the -western slope flow into the Pacific ocean. The rivers that rise on the -eastern slope, in northern Peru and Ecuador, force their way through -the Cordilleras and at their foot drain the montaņa of Bolivia, Peru -and Brazil. In the southern part of Peru and upper Chili there is a -broad sierra or plateau, at an elevation of from twelve to fourteen -thousand feet. The streams that rise in this sierra either empty into -salt or alkaline lakes or sink into the ground. - -Unlike all other long ranges of mountains, the continental or eastern -side of the Cordilleras is nearly as precipitous as that extending to -the Pacific. Craters of extinct volcanoes and volcanoes now in -eruption are found in all parts of the chain. In Ecuador there are -fifty-two volcanoes, and twenty of these, covered with perpetual snow -and presided over by Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, rise out of a group of -mountains encircling the valley of Quito, and are all visible from a -single point. Three are active and five others have been in eruption -at one or more times since the conquest. One of these, Sangai, is the -most active volcano on the globe: it sends forth a constant stream of -fire, water, mud and ashes, and some assert that it has done so -without intermission for 300 years; 267 explosions have been counted -in one hour. This is also the land of earthquakes: in 1868, 50,000 -lives, we are told, were lost in one day; the tremor was felt over -four countries and from the Andes to the Sandwich Islands. The tidal -wave washed a gunboat of the United States on shore at Arica in lower -Peru, 1000 miles to the south, and sixteen hours later the wave was -felt across the Pacific at New Zealand. - -A range of mountains separates Eastern Venezuela and Guiana from the -valley of the Amazon. Other ranges south of the Amazon run -southwestwardly, following the Atlantic coast line from Cape St. Roque -to the Rio de la Plata. - - -{3} RIVER SYSTEMS. - -A great oceanic current flows along the western coast of Africa to the -equator, where it is deflected across the Atlantic ocean and becomes -the equatorial current. On reaching the coast of South America near -Cape St. Roque, it is again deflected north and south. Trade winds -blowing over the equatorial current reach the coast at Brazil -surcharged with vapor; as they follow up the valley of the Amazon the -vapors are partially condensed and frequent showers refresh the land; -but when the clouds at the foot-hills of the Andes meet the colder -winds from the south and strike the snow summits of the Cordilleras, -all the moisture is condensed, and the rain falls in tropical showers -for half the year and waters the largest and richest valley in the -world. - -In this valley, among the Cordilleras, three great rivers--the -Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata--rise. The mountain ranges north and -south of the Amazon divide this great valley into three lesser -valleys, down which the Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata flow, -watering three-fourths of South America. - - -_The Orinoco_. - -The headwaters of the Orinoco rise in two ranges of mountains; the -Cordilleras in the west, and the mountains of Venezuela many hundred -miles to the east. Four hundred tributaries, abounding in beautiful -falls and cataracts, unite to form this great river. - -The whole valley for 1600 miles is filled with dense and tangled -forests. Noble trees of unrivalled beauty blossom in endless -prodigality. Birds of gorgeous plumage nestle in their lofty recesses. -Tall ferns, vines, creeping plants and parasites form a dense tangle -of undergrowth, swarming with life. Myriads of insects in great -variety, reptiles of strange and singular form, lizards and venemous -serpents find their homes and sustenance in the wild, dense mass of -vegetation. - - -_The Amazon_. - -The valley of the Amazon collects its waters from a region 1800 miles -wide from north to south and 2500 miles long from the Andes to the -Atlantic ocean. Even at the foot of the Andes the Amazon is a mighty -river. The valley rapidly narrows to a width of 600 or 700 miles, and -then more gradually to the ocean, {4} where it is only 150 miles wide. -Its total fall from the foot-hills of the Andes to the Atlantic is -very slight, not over three or four hundred feet, and probably -considerably less. - -The rims of the valley are formed of diorite and sandstone, and are -raised only a little above the flood-plain, which is formed of mud and -silt, the detritus brought down by the Amazon and its tributaries. The -flood-plain is from fifty to one hundred miles wide, gradually -narrowing as it approaches the ocean. Through this valley the Amazon -cuts its way, separating often into channels which sometimes run -parallel to each other for several hundred miles, frequently forming -large islands, or expanding into lakes. Similar flood-plains are found -on all its larger tributaries. - -Up from the ocean into this valley an immense tidal wave rolls, with a -bore, twice a day, forcing back the current of the Amazon 500 miles -and inundating a portion of the flood-plain. - -In the early autumn the equatorial rise commences in the headwaters of -its tributaries, far south of the equator. The rains and melting snow -raise the streams, and these the waters of the Amazon. As the sun -crosses the equator and moves to the north the rain follows its -course, and the branches that have their source in the east and -northeast add their flood to the waters of the southerly branches. The -flood in the Amazon is thus continued for nearly six months, raising -its waters from 30 to 50 feet. The channels are filled, and the -flood-plains are overflowed. The whole valley becomes a net-work of -navigable waters, with islands and channels and lakes innumerable, -forming a great inland sea, which the Brazilians call the -Mediterranean of America. The upland, though only a little above the -flood-plain, is rarely overflowed. - -The plants and animals of the flood-plain were formerly considered as -distinct from those of the upland as are the plants and animals of -Europe from those of America; but later investigations show that there -is but little difference between the species. - -The sea breeze blows up the valley about a thousand miles. Then for -1500 miles the atmosphere is stagnant and sultry; the climate is that -of a permanent vapor bath. The dense foliage forms dark, lofty vaults -which the sunlight never penetrates, and over all hangs a perpetual -mist. The abundance and beauty of vegetation increases, and the trees -which at the mouth of the river blossom only once a year, here bloom -and bear fruit all the year round. - -{5} Many great rivers run into the Amazon from the north and the -south, most of them navigable, for many hundred miles. The Madeira, -its greatest tributary, after running 2000 miles, empties into the -king of rivers, without making any perceptible difference in its width -or depth. - -This mighty current, rushing into the ocean, meets the equatorial -current and for over one hundred miles keeps on nearly a straight -course, when the stronger and mightier oceanic current deflects it to -the north. At from 200 to 300 miles from land, the sea is strongly -tinged, and in April and May has nearly the clay-yellow hue of the -Amazon. And even further north, about 400 miles from its mouth, the -naturalist on the Amazon tells us, "we passed numerous patches of -floating grass mingled with tree trunks and withered foliage; among -these I espied many fruits of the Amazonian palm. And this was the -last I saw of the Amazon." - - -_The Rio de la Plata_. - -The La Plata, the outlet of the waters of central South America, is -formed by the union of the Uruguay and Parana, about 150 miles from -the ocean; a little lower down, at Montevideo, it is 62 miles wide and -widens rapidly to the Atlantic, where it discharges more water than -all the rivers of Europe. The tributaries of the Parana are -fan-shaped. Its most eastern branches rise in the mountains of Brazil, -within seventy miles of the Atlantic ocean; and 1500 miles away, on -the other side of the continent, its most western tributaries rise -only 125 miles from the Pacific. - -Steamers ascend the Parana, Paraguay and Cuyaba, 2100 miles to Cuyaba, -and the river with its branches is navigable for 5000 miles. - - -_The San Francisco_. - -The San Francisco, about 1800 miles long, rises near Rio de Janeiro -and flows north about 1200 miles between parallel ranges of mountains, -then turns east and forces its way through the coast range to the -Atlantic ocean. It runs through the gold and diamond regions of -Brazil, and has a considerable population along its banks. It has many -falls and rapids, and considerable slack-water navigation. - - -{6} GENERAL DESCRIPTION. - -In Asia, the different countries have natural boundaries; the people, -soil and climate of one country are unlike those of others. In Europe -there are few natural boundaries, though different races inhabit the -several states. - -In South America only one dominant race is found, and though natural -boundaries exist, yet they do not serve as boundaries to the different -states, other than Venezuela and Guiana. Venezuela and Guiana are -watered by the Orinoco and by several rivers that flow from the -Amazonian mountains to the ocean. The whole coast is low and fertile, -but hot and unhealthy. The principal product is sugar, raised by -negroes and coolies. The interior is sultry and thickly wooded; it is -inhabited by Indian tribes, the principal of which are the cannibal -Caribs, and by negroes as uncivilized as any of the tribes in Africa. -Guiana is controlled by the English, French, and Dutch. Cayenne, the -prison for French convicts, is the capital of French Guiana. - -Colombia and Ecuador occupy the northwestern part of South America. -They are situated on both sides of the Andes, and have every variety -of climate. The country is well watered; fertile but unhealthy on the -coast, fertile and healthy on the elevated plains, cold and barren on -the mountains. - -In Brazil, besides the Amazon, La Plata and San Francisco, there are -several large rivers with fertile valleys; but occasional droughts, -sometimes lasting for two years, will prevent portions of Brazil from -becoming densely inhabited. - -On the Pacific coast south of Ecuador, the rainfall becomes less and -less. For three thousand miles along the coast of Peru and Chili there -is no natural harbor; a plain from ten to fifty miles in width extends -from the Pacific to the foot-hills of the Andes. The Antarctic current -runs along this coast; the southeasterly winds blow over it on to the -land and cool the air; but as the winds are of low temperature their -scanty vapor is dissipated by the heat radiated from the land, and not -a drop of rain refreshes the thirsty soil. Many mountain torrents run -from the snow-clad summits of the Andes, and the beauty of their -narrow valleys forms a grateful contrast to the dry and barren sands -of the plain. - -In the southern part of Chili and in that part formerly called -Patagonia, rain is abundant and the country is fertile. - -The longest stretch of low and comparatively level land to be {7} -found in the world extends through the center of South America. A boat -starting from the Caribbean sea could sail up the Orinoco over a -thousand miles, then down the Casquiare, which runs from the Orinoco -into the Rio Negro, down that river to the Amazon, up the Amazon to -the Madeira, then up that river and one of its branches through Brazil -and Bolivia, and with a short portage of six and a half miles to one -of the branches of the Paraguay, down the Paraguay and La Plata to the -ocean. - -The level land crosses the La Plata and continues southward through -the Argentine Republic and Patagonia to the Straits of Magellan. -Within this plain lie all the interior of Venezuela and Brazil, a part -of Bolivia, all Paraguay, Uruguay, and the Argentine Republic. The -pampas resemble our prairies, but run from north to south, while the -prairies run from east to west. - -The streams in the plain south of the valley of the La Plata rise in -the Andes and flow southeastward to the Atlantic. - - -THE ABORIGINES. - -The aborigines of America, except the Esquimaux, are unlike the -natives of other countries; the most marked difference is in their -language. They are divided into a number of tribes differing from each -other in some respects, yet with manners, customs and religious -beliefs generally similar. - -In South America there are more than one hundred distinct languages, -and two thousand dialects. About five or six million Indians have as -many dialects as are found among the 800,000,000 inhabitants of Europe -and Asia. Their languages are polysynthetic, being of a higher type -than the agglutinative languages. In the polysynthetic tongue the -substantive, adjective and verb are joined or combined, and oftentimes -a whole sentence will be comprised in a single word. - -The natives in the valleys of the Orinoco and Amazon are forced to -cultivate a little ground on the flood-plains, as the forests are -thick and impenetrable. They live principally on the fruit of the palm -(of which there are five hundred varieties), cocoa and bananas, fish -and turtles. There are no roads or paths through the forests except -the numerous channels of the rivers, called igarapes or furos. The -tribes on the pampas live principally on game and wild cattle. - -Humboldt tells us that the navigator on the Orinoco sees with surprise -at night the palm trees illuminated by large fires. From {8} the -trunks of these trees are suspended the habitations of a tribe of -Indians, who make their fires on mats hung in the air and filled with -moist clay. The same palm tree furnishes also food and wine and -clothing, and thus supplies every want and even the luxuries of life. - -The Indian race as a whole is believed to be superior to both the -negro and the Malay, as neither of those races has ever attained to -the civilization of the Incas of Peru or of the Indians of Mexico and -the Aztecs of Central America. Many of their myths and folk tales are -common, not only to the Indians of one part of the country, but also -to other tribes in distant parts of the continent, and even to the -negroes of Africa, and the Arabs of upper Egypt. All the tribes on the -continent have substantially the same habits of life, the same methods -of warfare, the same general characteristics, and a language built -substantially on the same plan. - -From these observations it might seem that the Indian tribes of South -America were allied to those of Africa or to the Malays, but on -further consideration the similarity seems due rather to a like stage -of civilization than to identity of race. - - -THE INCAS OF PERU. - -In crossing from Arequipa in Peru to La Paz in Bolivia, the road -ascends the Andes, makes a slight descent into the barren, desolate -valley between the Andes and Cordilleras, crosses Lake Titicaca, and -then descends to La Paz. Lake Titicaca, the largest lake of South -America, is on a plateau between twelve and thirteen thousand feet in -height, the most elevated table land on the globe, excepting Thibet. -This lake is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad mountains, the highest of -which is Illampa, 22,300 feet in height. - -On this lake are the remains of the most ancient civilization of South -America. Cyclopean ruins of temples and fortresses stand as perpetual -monuments of a vanished culture; when and by whom they were erected, -we know not; their builders left no other record of their existence. -The wandering Indians told the first Spaniards that they existed -before the sun shone in the heavens. From one of the rocky islands of -Lake Titicaca, about the year 1000 or 1100, the Sun, parent of mankind -and giver of every good gift, taking compassion on the degraded -condition of {9} the Indians, sent two of his children, Manco Capac -and Mama Oello Huaco, to gather the wandering tribes into communities, -to teach them the arts of civilized life and to inculcate the worship -of the Sun. From Lake Titicaca, this brother and sister, husband and -wife, went down the valley to Cuzco, where they were bidden to found -an empire. Manco Capac was thus the first Inca. There were ten or -twelve Incas before the conquest of Peru. Their conquests extended -through the entire valley of the Cordilleras, until over four hundred -tribes, with a population of many millions, became subject to their -dominion. - -The territory of the Incas extended from the southern part of Chili -northward into Colombia, beyond Quito, a distance of two thousand -miles, and west to the Pacific Ocean. On the eastern slope of the -Cordilleras, toward the great plain of the Amazon, the Incas met a -stronger and more savage people, with whom they were in constant -warfare. In the several passes of the Cordilleras they constructed -fortifications to protect their borders and prevent invasion. - -The capital of the territory, Cuzco, was situated in a beautiful -valley ten thousand feet above the sea. Amidst the Alps, such a valley -would be buried in eternal snow, but within the tropics it enjoys a -perpetual spring. Here the Incas loved to dwell, and remains of -immense fortresses, palaces and temples, testify to their power and -culture, and to the number of their subjects. Tens of thousands of -laborers must have been required to construct such edifices. When we -reflect that these people had no beasts of burden except the llama, -which could only carry light loads, and no mechanical means for -transporting the vast blocks of stone used in constructing these -buildings, we are astonished at what they accomplished. The pyramids -of Egypt are not more wonderful. - -Great highways were built, running north, south and west, connecting -different parts of the Empire. One followed the valley between the -Cordilleras and Andes to Quito, another crossed the Andes and followed -the sea-coast north and south to the extreme limits of their country. -All traveling was on foot. Large and comfortable tambos, or inns, were -erected every few miles, and larger ones at the end of a day's -journey. Couriers were stationed at regular intervals, each of whom -had his allotted station, between which and the next it was his duty -to run at a certain pace bearing his message, and on his approach to -the {10} next station he signalled to the next chasquir, as the -couriers were called, to be ready to carry forward the message. In -this way, it is said, about 150 miles a day were made. - -These couriers traveled more quickly than the mail-carriers of Europe, -and the means of communication were then, Squier tells us, far better -than they are to-day. Many of these old tambos are still maintained. -One in which Squier spent the night was 180 feet in length, with rooms -forming three sides of a court. - -The country of the Incas had every variety of climate, and the -products were those of every part of the new world. On the coast, -perpetual summer reigns, with all the variety and beauty of tropical -vegetation. At a higher elevation, the trees are always green, and -while one kind sheds its blossoms and ripens its fruit another is -budding and unfolding its bloom. Meantime, on the top of the mountains -is eternal winter. In some places, as at Potosi, the changes of -temperature are frequent and extremes of heat and cold are experienced -in a single day. The weather in the early morning is frosty; in the -forenoon, mild and balmy; in the afternoon, scorching, and in the -evening, cool and delicious. - -On the Pacific slope of the Andes, reservoirs were constructed, from -which irrigating canals watered the whole plain now lying desolate and -barren. - -The conquered tribes were incorporated into the nation and became the -people of the Incas. If the conquered tribe was strong and warlike, -some of its members were removed to distant parts of the country and -were replaced by the inhabitants of those regions, to whom privileges -and immunities were given as compensation for the change of home. The -conquered tribes quickly realized the benefits of the rule of the -Incas and became faithful and loyal subjects. - -The government of the Incas was a paternal despotism controlling the -most minute affairs of daily life. Knowledge, the Incas taught, "was -not intended for the people, but for those of generous ability, for it -would render persons of low degree vain and arrogant." - -The Incas established a communal system similar to that of Russia. -One-third of the land belonged to the Inca, one-third to the priests -of the Sun, and the remainder to the people, who were required to -cultivate the land of the Inca and of the priests, as well as their -own. The land was divided among the families yearly, according to -their number. Every newly {11} married couple received a stated -portion which was increased as the family increased. - -Their only means of writing was by a cord, called quippus, about two -feet long, composed of threads of different colors twisted together, -from which a quantity of smaller threads hung like a knotted fringe. -The colors denoted sensible objects or sometimes abstract ideas, -though the principal use of the quippus was for arithmetical purposes. - -The civilization of the Incas appears to have been of a higher order -than that of the Mexicans. It is not probable that hieroglyphics were -in use among any of the South American Indians, though it is said that -traces of a pictorial alphabet have been found. The people were -contented and happy, although they were deprived of personal liberty, -although their daily life was supervised by their rulers, and although -they held only communal rights of property. They had neither ambition -nor strong love of country. - -When Pizarro landed in Peru there were two Incas, one at Cuzco and the -other at Quito, and the bitter conflict which was raging between them -made the conquest of both easy. Pizarro had only 180 followers, but -they were Spanish cavaliers, carrying fire-arms; and with this small -force he overturned the Incas and enslaved the people. The descendants -of the Quichuas, or the people of the Incas, still inhabit the land--a -mild, apathetic, servile and dejected race. It is said that after the -conquest the women put on a black mantle, which they have worn ever -since, as perpetual mourning for the last of the Incas. - -There are a few descendants of Spaniards in Peru, but the population -consists chiefly of the descendants of the Quichuas and mixed -Spaniards and Quichuas. The Peruvians of to-day are less civilized -than those who lived 400 years ago; they have less liberty and are -poorer. - - -DISCOVERY OF THE AMAZON. - -Great rivers have usually been discovered and explored by ascending -them from the ocean to their sources; the Congo and the Amazon were -explored downward from their sources to the ocean. - -Three hundred and fifty years ago, Gonzalo Pizarro, then governor of -Upper Peru, heard of a land of silver and gold, spices and precious -stones; a land where spring reigned and all tropical fruits abounded. -He determined to follow the little {12} stream which, rising in the -Andes, near Quito, flowed eastward; to explore the country, and find -the happy land. He set out with 350 Cavaliers, mounted on Spanish -horses and attended by 4000 Indian slaves. - -The first part of the route was easy; the little stream soon became a -river, then broadened into the Napo; but the farther they went, the -slower and more difficult was their progress as they passed from the -open forest and the cool and invigorating breezes of the Andes into -the sultry valley of the Napo. Their way now led through forests more -dense, darker and more impenetrable than those described by Stanley, -for the valley of the Amazon is richer than the valley of the Congo. -Natives armed with poisoned arrows opposed their progress; food became -scarce, treachery was on every side, and their number gradually -diminished by death and by desertion of the slaves. - -The natives told them of a greater river than the Napo which they -would find a few days' voyage farther down. This river, they said, -flowed through a more populous and richer country, where food was -abundant and gold was found in every stream. Pizarro determined to -build a bark and to send Orellano as commander to find and return with -food and succor. For this vessel, the forests furnished the timber; -the shoes of the horses were converted into nails, distilled gum was -used for pitch, and the garments of the soldiers were a substitute for -oakum. In two months, a brigantine was launched, the first European -vessel that ever floated on the waters of the Amazon. The Napo grew -broader and deeper as the little company rapidly floated down, until -it became a mile wide. Three days after they left Pizarro, they saw -before them a river, many times larger than the Napo, which the -Indians called Parana-tinega, King of Waters; but we call it the -Amazon. There was no cultivation, little food could be obtained, and -the Indians were hostile instead of friendly. What was to be done? -Behind them was the wilderness, before them the promised land. The -journey back would be difficult and dangerous; the temptation to -explore the wonderful river was too great to resist. One man alone was -faithful to Pizarro, and he was left on the bank while Orellano sailed -down the river. The wonder of the explorers daily increased as other -rivers larger than the Napo flowed into the Amazon, now on the north, -more frequently on the south. Month after month passed, the river grew -so broad that they could not see from one side to the other. {13} -Great islands were passed, channels running parallel with the main -stream larger than any river they had ever seen. Still on they went, -till after several months they reached the Atlantic Ocean. Then they -sailed north in their little boat, skirting the coast to Trinidad, -where they found a vessel which bore them to Spain. They recounted the -story of the great river; the wonderful country through which they -passed; and the rich mines of which they had heard. They told fabulous -tales of the Amazonians they had encountered, strong and masculine -women, armed with bows and arrows, living by themselves, admitting men -into their country only one month in the year, killing or sending away -the male children and training the girls to become amazons and -warriors. - -Orellano was received by the Queen; his treachery was forgotten and a -new expedition was sent out under his command; but he died before -reaching the river. - -Meantime, Pizarro and his followers slowly and with difficulty made -their way down the Napo, taking as many months to reach the Amazon as -Orellano had taken days. They looked in vain for their companions, but -found only the solitary man who had been left behind, scarcely alive, -and from him learned of Orellano's desertion. Further explorations -being impossible, they turned back, reached Quito two years after -their departure, their horses gone, their arms broken or rusted, the -skins of wild animals their only clothing. "The charnel house seemed -to have given up its dead, as they glided onward like a troop of -spectres." Half of the Indians had perished, and of the three hundred -and fifty cavaliers only eighty were left. - -Such was the end of an expedition which for dangers and hardships, -length of duration, and constancy displayed is probably unmatched in -the annals of American discovery. - - -GUIANA. - -Guiana is the only country of South America not inhabited by the Latin -race. It was acquired for Great Britain by one who acted contrary to -his instructions in attacking a power, Spain, with which his own -country was at peace. - -Gonzalo Pizarro, on his journey down the Napo in 1539, heard wonderful -stories of a golden city far away on the banks of the Orinoco, -surrounded by mountains of gold. Rumors of this golden city were -carried by English navigators to Great Britain, {14} with legends of a -prince of Guiana, whose body, first smeared with turpentine, was then -powdered with gold dust, so that he strode among his people a majestic -golden statue. Adventurers started in search of this El Dorado, some -from Peru, others from Quito and from Trinidad; but the golden city -was never found. They, however, brought back reports of chiefs whose -bodies sparkled with gold dust as they danced, who had golden eagles -dangling from their breasts and great pearls from their ears; they -told of mines of diamonds and gold, and of the natives who longed to -exchange their jewels for jews-harps. - -Sir Walter Raleigh determined to find this country and bring to his -queen its fabulous riches, for he believed that the silver and gold -mines of Mexico and Peru had made Spain the first state in -Christendom--"that purchaseth intelligence and creepeth into counsels -and endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of Europe." - -In 1595, Sir Walter sailed from England and arrived at the Isle of -Trinidad, where he overthrew the Spaniards, then sailed up the -Orinoco, or one of its branches, four hundred miles, until hunger and -sickness compelled him to return. Although he did not reach the golden -city, he could see the mountains far in the distance which he believed -surrounded it, and he found the shining sand on the banks of the -Orinoco. In Guiana he raised the flag of England and compelled the -Indians to swear fealty to his queen. - -Twenty years later, a prisoner in the Tower, he was released in order -to make a second voyage in search of this El Dorado for King James. He -sailed in 1617, accompanied by his eldest son; but disaster and -sickness met him at every step. He reached the Orinoco again, too -feeble to land. So his son and Captain Keymis went instead. Keymis -returned after a month of exploration, bringing Raleigh the news of -the death of his son in an attack on a Spanish town. He brought -reports of the golden city, of the mines of gold, diamonds and -emeralds, but neither gold, diamonds nor emeralds to confirm the truth -of these reports. Raleigh said, "I am undone;" Keymis replied, "I know -then, Sir, what course to take." He went to his cabin and killed -himself. - -Raleigh returned to England, a broken down old man. The Spaniards -demanded his life of James as they had demanded it of Elizabeth after -his first expedition, on the ground that in time of {15} peace Raleigh -had attacked the Spanish forces and invaded their country. Elizabeth -had refused, but James yielded. Raleigh was executed, but Guiana -became an English colony. - -The gold and silver mines of Peru have failed; little gold has been -found in Guiana, but its rich and fertile soil, watered by tropical -rains, has been a source of greater wealth than the gold mines of -Peru. - - -POPULATION OF SOUTH AMERICA. - -As the countries of South America were all settled at about the same -time and by the same race and have passed through a like history, they -can be considered as a whole. - -The United States and Canada, with a rough, uncongenial climate and -sterile soil, were settled by the Anglo-Saxons, the remainder of the -western continent by the Latin race and, excepting Brazil and Guiana, -by Spaniards. In North America the Anglo-Saxon race has dominated, -carrying civilization from the Atlantic to the Pacific, expelling and -exterminating the aborigines. There has been no mingling of the -Anglo-Saxon and Indian races, no backward step, but ever civil, -religious and intellectual progress. The Latin race conquered Central -America and South America, a perfect Eden of natural loveliness, one -hundred years prior to the settlement of the Anglo-Saxon; yet to-day -they constitute but a thin layer over a scarcely populated country. -Their leaders were men of unbounded ambition, rapacious, of great -endurance, but cruel and unscrupulous. They sought adventure, -expecting it would bring them gold and silver. For that end they -plundered, despoiled and enslaved the Indians. Gold and silver flowed -into their hands; luxury, effeminacy, and weakness followed. - -The Spaniards in America have scarcely retained the civilization they -brought from the old world. They have intermarried with the Indians, -and this mixed race is said to inherit the vices of each of their -ancestors without the virtues of either. - -A sparse population, mostly Spanish and foreigners, inhabit a zone ten -to twenty miles in depth along the coast of South America, from the -Bay of Panama to the Caribbean sea. All the cities and settlements, -excepting a few in the Argentine Republic, are near the coast. - -Back of this zone, on the Pacific, is a mixed Spanish-Indian -population, much larger than the Spanish and foreign population; {16} -and on the Atlantic a population which is Spanish-Indian, -Spanish-Negro, and Negro-Indian, occupies a zone from twenty to one -hundred miles wide. Beyond the first zone a few Spanish families and -foreigners are found at the gold and silver mines, on the pampas, at -the cattle ranches, and on a few haciendas in Peru and Chili. In -Brazil the Portuguese and some Englishmen and Germans raise coffee and -sugar, and oversee the diamond and gold fields. On the Amazon there -are a few small settlements to collect the India rubber and cacao of -that valley. - -Save these sparse settlements, the interior of South America is -inhabited by wild tribes of Indians, uncivilized save for the presence -of a few Catholic priests, who have given the Indians the cross and -the image of the Virgin Mary, which they worship, mingling the -Catholic religion with their old idolatries and barbarous rites. The -natives are believed to be more idle and less civilized than when the -Spaniards discovered America. - -The Spaniards are the grandees of the country; too proud to work, they -leave all business to the foreigners and all labor to the Indians, -retaining in connection with the half-breeds all political power. When -the regents appointed by Spain were expelled in the early part of the -present century, republics were established, but they were republics -only in name; the people were neither educated nor fitted for -self-government. Their presidents generally exercised the powers of -dictators and often assumed that title. They have rarely enjoyed a -long rule, for their power and position were sought by others. -Revolution in these countries has passed from the acute to the chronic -stage. - -A recent traveller in Peru, who wished to inspect its railroad system, -was informed that only 26 miles were in running order, the remainder -being under the control of the revolutionists who were then less than -80 miles from the capital. He asked why the rebels did not take Lima, -the capital, and was told, "because there is no unanimity among them; -they are suspicious of each other, and cannot depend upon any one -man." Instead of being anxious to serve their country they are only -interested in robbing her. - -Another traveller in Bolivia, who witnessed some of these revolutions, -says they sometimes occurred three times in as many weeks, and that it -would have been ludicrous had not their results been often violent and -tragic. There has been no settled government, no continued peace, no -permanent policy, in any Spanish {17} country. The hope for the future -is that the English, German, and French population will increase and -become permanently identified with the country; they will then take an -active interest in politics and direct the policy and administration -of the government. - -Commercial and banking business is in the hands of the French, -Germans, and English. The Italians carry on a small trade at corner -groceries and fruit stores; the French keep the hotels and -restaurants; the English and Germans are the shippers, merchants and -bankers. - -Regular lines of English, French, and German steamers run from Europe -to Panama and thence along the western coast of South America, -stopping at ports en route; some return by Panama, others sail around -Cape Horn to Europe by Buenos Ayres and Rio Janeiro. Other lines run -direct from Europe to Brazil, and twenty-four lines connect Europe and -the Argentine Republic; while there are only four lines of American -steamers trading to South America. - - -BRAZIL. - -We have given a general description of South America, but three -countries--Brazil, the Argentine Republic and Peru--require further -notice: Brazil, because it is the largest country, occupying -three-sevenths of South America, and the only considerable state that -was not settled by the Spaniards; the Argentine Republic, because it -is the largest and most populous of the Spanish states and, with Peru, -illustrates the political and financial phases through which the -Spanish republics have passed. - -The valley of the Amazon makes Brazil the most fertile region of the -world. The tropical woods are so thick and the creepers and -undergrowth so luxuriant that animal life is almost entirely confined -to the trees above and the waters below. - -The valley is not unhealthy, and, though under the equator, the -climate is tempered by the trade winds and the evaporation from the -vast Amazonian waters. Beyond the valley is the montaņa district, -where the land is higher and the climate semi-tropical, where there -are few creepers, little underbrush, and open forests, and where both -animal and vegetable life is less abundant. Southward, beyond the -montaņa district, are the evergreen pampas, where no trees grow and -where the animal and vegetable life are unlike either that of the -valley of the Amazon or that of the {18} montaņa. As in Africa, so -here, men who live in the dark forest, die in the open. Mr. Stanley -selected thirty dwarfs from the tropical forests of Africa to take to -England, but as soon as they came into the grass-lands, the clear air -and bright sun, they languished and died before the coast was reached. - -Northeast of the pampas, on the Atlantic coast, south of the Amazon, -is a province bounded on the south by a range of high mountains, where -rain is abundant; at Maranhao, its seaport, there are 280 inches of -rainfall in the year. South of Maranhao there is much less rain; and -instead of two seasons, the wet and the dry, which prevail in the -valley of the Amazon, there are the four seasons of the year, but -without extremes of heat and cold. - -Over the greater part of Brazil grows the coffee tree, the -sheet-anchor of Brazilian prosperity, since it furnishes 60 per cent. -of all the coffee grown in the world. The plant is not indigenous to -Brazil, but was brought there about one hundred years ago from the old -world. - -Brazil, inhabited by the Portuguese, with an imperial government, has -been saved from the anarchy and insolvency of the Spanish republics. -Her railroads have been built with economy and have been generally -successful. It had a population in 1885 of 11,000,000; two-thirds of -whom were Indians and negroes, and many of the negroes were slaves. -Slavery existed longer in Brazil than in any other civilized country; -the lash was commonly used on the plantation, and work continued from -early in the morning until late at night until 1888, when a law was -passed finally emancipating 1,300,000 slaves. It was opposed by the -planters, who said freedmen would not work, but would let the coffee -and sugar plantations fall to ruin. It was probably this act which -caused the overthrow of the empire, for in revenge the planters joined -the insurgents in establishing the Republic. - -The Portuguese and Brazilians are more peaceable and orderly than the -Spaniards or Spanish-Americans; we may therefore reasonably hope that -Brazil will not repeat the history of the Spanish republics, which has -been one of disintegration, for these republics have separated into -two or more States. The greatest difficulty in maintaining its immense -domain will arise from the enormous distances and the time required to -travel between different parts of the country. From Rio de Janeiro to -Matto Grosso is 140 days' journey by land, and by water the distance -is 3000 miles. Communication is maintained by steamer {19} through the -Argentine Republic up the Rio de la Plata and its branches. Although -the country has many long and navigable rivers, yet the means of -intercommunication are very poor; for the rivers are little used, and -the forests, creepers, and undergrowth are so dense that the country -back of the river-banks is impenetrable, and even if roads should be -opened the soil is so luxuriant that they would be quickly overgrown -and soon become impassable. - -Lines of steamers have been subsidized by the Brazilian government and -run up the Amazon 2000 miles to Tabatinga, at the boundary line of -Peru; there connecting with lines subsidized by the Peruvian -government, which run 1500 miles farther up the river. These vessels -carry supplies to the settlers and bring back India rubber, -Brazil-nuts, cacao, quinine, and the beautiful woods of the forest. - -Yet steamers are rarely seen on the Amazon; they have few passengers, -and have not opened the country; we are told that the Mississippi -carries more vessels in a month, and the Yang-tse-kiang in a day, than -the Amazon in a year. - - -THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. - -The history of South American republics is illustrated in the -Argentine republic. - -It is a vast pampas or prairie, extending from Brazil to the Andes, -and from Bolivia with a southeasterly trend 2000 miles to southeastern -Terra del Fuego. - -The climate of the northern portion is tropical; of the central part, -semi-tropical; of the extreme south, temperate or cold. The country is -generally well watered excepting in the northwestern part, where the -land is dry and alkaline, like the arid regions of North America. The -soil is a rich, deep loam, from four to six feet in depth, excepting -in Patagonia and the western pampas, where there is a coarse gravel -and detritus from the Andes. Instead of the dense tropical forest of -the Amazon valley, the pampas are covered by a coarse grass, three or -four feet high, growing in large tussocks and all the year round of a -dark green. The strong grass crowds out all trees and almost all -plants, so that scarcely a flower relieves the uniform, everlasting -verdure. - -Instead of the arboreal animals of the Amazon there is the rhea or -American ostrich, "ship of the wilderness," adapted to the {20} -pampas, but unable to live in the forests. The gauchos have hunted it -for the last three centuries, but it is now passing away and will soon -be lost to the pampas, as the buffalo has been to the North American -prairie. - -The pampas are far better adapted to the raising of cattle than our -prairies, for the grass is always green and the winters are milder. -Cattle, horses, and sheep imported by the Spaniards and turned on to -the pampas rapidly increased, and now immense herds feed on the -plains. - -The Indians who inhabit the pampas, instead of being confined to one -locality and journeying only by canoe, like the Indians on the Amazon, -wander over the length and breadth of the pampas, hunting the ostrich -and cattle. The cattle are tended by gauchos, as the cow-boys are -called, half-breeds as wild as the herds they tend. Constant warfare -exists between the Indians and the gauchos, unless they unite to -attack the settlers. After one of the Indian raids the government dug -an immense ditch from a river to the Andes and drove the Indians to -the farther side, and since then there have been fewer raids--and -fewer Indians. - -The land was held in large blocks of many thousand acres, worked by -overseers and gauchos. The animals were killed by hundreds of -thousands for their skins. This state of things is, however, gradually -passing away, for during the last twenty years emigrants from the old -world have settled in the country as farmers and planters. - -The fourteen provinces which form the Argentine Republic have never -been welded into one nation, and have seldom had a moment's peace. The -gauchos have been a continual scourge, and the gaucho generals its -rulers and harriers combined. Unfortunately, here, as in other Spanish -states, one dictator has succeeded another. Thirty presidents, or -dictators, have reigned within fifty years. At one time five provinces -had each a separate dictator. The neighboring republic of Uruguay, -formerly a part of the Argentine Confederation, had 26 revolutions in -the twenty-three years from 1864 to 1887. - -For some time Buenos Ayres and its dictator ruled the republic; then -the country provinces rebelled, and civil war ensued; one province was -arrayed against another, and all against Buenos Ayres. The provinces -prevailed and the gaucho general, Rosas, occupied Buenos Ayres. -Scarcely was this civil war ended when a war arose with the republics -of Uruguay and Paraguay. - -{21} Money was required to pay the army and the cost of civil and -foreign wars. Every dictator had his friends for whom provision must -be made. Large debts were created; banks were chartered; $200,000,000 -of paper money were issued. There were several different circulating -mediums; each province strove to outdo the others in the issue of a -currency which quickly depreciated. Companies for different purposes -were organized, and many were subsidized, directly or indirectly. We -are told that in one case $1,500,000 was paid for a concession, and -that "Turkish officials, who have hitherto been the champion artists -in backsheesh, leave off where Argentine blackmailers begin; the price -of a drainage scheme at Buenos Ayres would buy a whole cabinet of -pashas at Galata." - -Railroads were built running from Buenos Ayres in different -directions, as each province demanded a railroad, with little regard -to its population or business. - -A road was commenced to cross the Andes and open communication between -the Atlantic and Pacific over mountains which had never been crossed -by a carriage of any kind. - -The country was not settled so rapidly as the rulers desired. -Inducements were therefore offered to immigrants. The passage money -from Europe and the expenses of the immigrant to his new home have -been paid and land for settlement sold at low rates. It is estimated -that over 1,000,000 foreigners have settled in the country during the -last twelve years, and the proportionate increase of population in the -same period has been twice as great as that of the United States. -Grazing lands have been sold at nominal prices to immigrants, or -leased for terms of years in lots of 6,000 acres at a rental of $100 a -year. Bonds were issued not only by the government but by the -provinces, by the municipalities and by the railroads, and all were -readily taken in England and Germany. To enable the emigrants to pay -for and to cultivate their land, the owner of real estate on -depositing his title deeds with the hypothecary banks and having a -valuation of his real estate, received cedulas, or bonds of the bank, -for one-half its appraised value; these cedulas for large amounts were -issued and sold in Europe; and thus, as ever, more money was required, -more bonds were issued. In 1889, a year of peace, the public debt was -increased 120 per cent., and it is now said to be over one thousand -four hundred millions of dollars, and the principal and interest of -two-thirds of this amount is payable in gold at a premium of 200 per -cent. - -{22} In 1890 there was no money to meet the interest and general -prostration ensued. - -It is difficult to ascertain the debt of the republic; but if the -accounts given in the English publications are correct the debt is -greater in proportion to its population and wealth than that of any -other country in the world. The only hope of the Argentine Republic is -to wipe out the debt by insolvency and bankruptcy. - - -PERU. - -A strip of land with 1200 miles of sea coast, without a natural -harbor, and 200 to 300 miles wide, consisting of a plain, mountains, a -plateau, and still another range of mountains--this is Peru. - -In the west, where the rain never falls, are numerous small rivers, -to-day mountain torrents, to-morrow dry, rocky beds. - -Between the lofty ranges of snow mountains is the highest plateau in -the world, after Thibet. The southern part of this plateau is dry and -desolate, the northern portion is well watered, with beautiful streams -running now through deep caņons and then through rich, fertile valleys -steadily descending toward the northeast; the valleys growing ever -broader, warmer and more delightful, until the montaņa is reached, -only a few hundred feet above the Atlantic, where the streams have -become rivers, navigable to the ocean. - -The western slope of the mountains is dry and barren, so that -breadstuffs and provisions are imported from Ecuador on the north, or -from lower Chili, far to the south. Yet no other country has -contributed so much to the world's fertility; for here are the great -deposits of guano and nitrates, more valuable than mines of gold and -silver. These deposits yielded for over thirty years a net annual -revenue of $20,000,000. - -The eastern slope, rich and fertile, producing every tree and flower, -all fruits and vegetables grown in any part of the world; in the -mountains, mines of gold and silver, platinum and cinnabar, copper and -tin, lead and iron, coal and petroleum, nitrates and asphalt: a -bankrupt nation in the midst of untold wealth--such is Peru. - -To bring the minerals down to the ocean, tens of millions of dollars -were expended on thirteen roads; but though none of them were ever -finished, they reached a few of the poorer mines. Seven of these roads -were built by the government, the others by private parties. - -{23} The sales of guano and the production of gold and silver made -Peru a proud and wealthy nation. Everything prospered until the war -with Chili, from 1879 to 1883, ending in the defeat of Peru and the -loss of a portion of her territory, including a large part of her -guano deposit. She was unable to keep her railroads in operation, much -less to extend them, or to pay the interest on her bonds; and thus -bankruptcy followed defeat. At last, after fourteen years of default -and six years of negotiation, a contract was concluded with Peru by -Mr. M. P. Grace, of New York, in January, 1890, on behalf of the -bondholders. The bondholders became concessionaires, and in -consideration of the release of the bonded debt due to them by Peru, -receive valuable concessions, of money, of mines, of railroads, of -lands and of guano. These concessions include among other things a -government subsidy of $400,000 a year, secured from the customs of -Callao; the mines of Cerro de Pasco, which have yielded a yearly -average of $2,000,000 for over one hundred years; the entire railway -system (769 miles in length) of the state; a grant of 5,000,000 acres -for the extension of the Lake Titicaca railroad; a grant of 4,500,000 -acres for the extension of the Central or Oroya railroad to the -navigable waters of the Ucayala, one of the main tributaries of the -Amazon; the exclusive control of the guano deposit until 2,000,000 -tons have been sold, from which they expect to sell at least 80,000 -tons a year, which will net $1,000,000. The concessionaires on their -part agree to liquidate the Peruvian debt, to repair the railroads, -and construct 974 miles in extension of the existing system at an -estimated cost of $16,000,000, and to assume certain other obligations -to a limited amount. - -This, perhaps the most remarkable settlement ever made between a -bankrupt nation and its creditor, is due largely to Mr. Grace, and -cannot fail to develop the resources of Peru and restore her days of -prosperity. - - -TRADE RELATIONS WITH THE UNITED STATES. - -It appears from the foregoing statement that all the carrying trade to -and from South America, by water, is by foreign steamers; that only -four of these are American lines; that the railroads are generally -owned and operated by Englishmen; that the bankers and merchants are -Englishmen or Germans; that {24} many of the mines, cattle ranches, -coffee plantations and other estates are owned by non-resident -foreigners; and that the largest consumer of South American products -is the United States, although this country sells few of its -manufactures and products to South America. - -The English steamers, in the usual course of trade, load with English -dry-goods consigned to English houses in South America, where they are -sold and the proceeds invested in coffee and other products, which are -sent in the same vessels to the United States; there sold, and the -money invested in our produce for carriage to England. The English -therefore obtain the profits on manufacture, on the freight to South -America, on the sale of the goods in South America, on the freight -from South America to the United States, on the sale of those goods, -and finally on the freight of the American breadstuffs carried to -Europe. For the successful prosecution of any trade between two -countries, it is essential that each shall produce what the other -wants: Thus, we raise breadstuffs which are not grown on the Caribbean -sea nor in the valley of the Amazon, nor in Peru or upper Chili, and -we also manufacture goods required in all parts of South America, -where they have few factories; there, coffee, wool, India rubber, -cacao and other articles are produced, which we require. Here, -therefore, are the factors necessary for a prosperous trade. Such a -trade we formerly enjoyed with South America: In 1852, six hundred -United States vessels entered the harbor of Buenos Ayres, or more than -twice as many as those of all other nations combined; now only two per -cent. of the shipping entering that harbor belongs to us. Our war -came, iron steamers took the place of wooden sailing ships, we levied -a duty on coffee and rubber, South America levied a duty on our -manufactures, other countries subsidized lines of steamers, while we -refused all subsidies; and our trade with South America rapidly fell -off, as freights were carried cheaper in foreign than in American -ships, and the trade of South America passed from the United States to -England, Germany and France. - -It is said that we cannot regain this trade, because we cannot, -without protection maintain our own manufactures, much less compete -with the Europeans in an open market; and therefore that it will be a -waste of money to subsidize our vessels. But the larger the market the -cheaper we can manufacture, and we can {25} surely find a large and -new market for our breadstuffs. It is worth while to make the -experiment at least, to give our vessels the same subsidy and -protection that has been given to the European lines, and to our -merchants and bankers, an opportunity to regain the trade with South -America. At first the odds will be greatly against us; but if we show -the same energy and ability in cultivating trade with South America -that our fathers exhibited, and that we have shown in other -directions, we must ultimately succeed. - -It is now proposed to tax the products of South America, unless the -South American states reciprocate and admit our breadstuffs and -manufactures free. If this scheme can be carried out, a large and -prosperous commerce will be established between North America and -South America, and American houses will be started in the large cities -to dispose of our manufactures and ship the products to South America. -By this interchange, our manufacturers and farmers will find a market -for their goods and products, our mercantile navy freight for its -vessels, and our bankers and merchants a profitable business in the -large cities of South America. - - -RAILROADS. - -We have already referred to the several railroads which start from the -little ports on the Pacific coast and run up the valleys toward the -Andes. Three of these, among the most remarkable roads in the world, -ascend to a greater elevation than any others, and to a height which -in Europe or the United States, would be above the snow level. They -were intended to reach the gold and silver mines between the Andes and -Cordilleras. - -The first, called the Oroya or Central railroad, 111 miles in length, -starts from Callao on the Pacific, and crosses the Andes, at an -elevation of nearly 15,000 feet, to the plateau between the Andes and -the Cordilleras. It is expected that this road will be extended to the -navigable waters of the Amazon. - -Three hundred miles southward, the second road runs from Mollendo, -Peru, by Arequipa to Puno on Lake Titicaca, and thence northward on -the plateau 407 miles to San Rosas, on the route to Cuzco. The road -from Mollendo to Arequipa runs through a country so destitute of water -that the only supply for {26} the engines and stations is by an iron -pipe 8 inches in diameter, and 50 miles long, running from an -elevation of 7,000 feet to the sea-coast. - -Seven or eight hundred miles south of Mollendo, a line runs from -Valparaiso in Chili to Buenos Ayres, 870 miles. It crosses the Andes -through a tunnel two miles long, at an elevation of 10,568 feet above -the sea; after leaving the mountains it runs over the pampas two -hundred miles, without a curve or a grade over three feet above or -below the plain, and will soon be completed from ocean to ocean. - -From Rio de Janeiro several roads have been constructed over the -mountains west of that city to different parts of Brazil. One of these -runs westwardly toward Bolivia. - -Bolivia has recently granted concessions for the construction of a -road from La Paz to connect on the west with the Peruvian roads at -Lake Titicaca, and on the east with the Brazilian lines on the -Pacific; and thus ultimately a road will run from Mollendo on the -Atlantic ocean by Lake Titicaca and La Paz to Rio de Janeiro. - -There are now from 6000 to 7000 miles of road in operation in the -Argentine Republic, 5000 to 6000 in Brazil, and 3000 to 4000 miles in -the other states, making a total of about 15,000 miles of railroad in -operation. - -A proposition is now before the public for the construction of the -Pan-American railroad, from the Caribbean sea southward to the -Argentine Republic to connect with the Peruvian, with the Brazilian, -and ultimately with the Argentine roads. - -The route that seems to be most feasible starts at Cartagena, where -there is a splendid bay and harbor, within three days sail from -Galveston and six days from New York. It follows the valley of the -Magdalena river 800 miles to Dividal, 1700 feet above the sea. Here, -near the head waters of the Magdalena, the route crosses the eastern -Cordilleras at an elevation of about 6,500 feet to the head waters of -the Caqueta, or Yapura, a branch of the Amazon, and thence runs down -that river 375 miles to the mouth of the Engarros, only 550 feet above -tide-water. From the Caqueta river, the route passes through Ecuador -to Iquitos, Peru, crossing fourteen tributaries of the Amazon. From -Iquitos the route ascends the Amazon and the Ucayle, one of its -southern tributaries, 500 miles to Napal, then continues across the -montaņa {27} and the numerous valleys of the Amazon about 600 miles, -to Santa Cruz in Bolivia, or 2400 miles from Cartagena; while a branch -will run up the Apurimac to Cuzco. - -This road would run for 2000 miles along the foot hills of the -Cordilleras, and in these mountains is probably the richest mining -region in the world; here gold, silver, copper, lead and coal mines -are found. The gold and silver mines do not seem to have been -thoroughly explored, although untold millions of the precious metals -have been extracted from them. These mines are generally in cold and -treeless regions, where coal, labor and food are difficult to obtain; -where freights are high and machinery of all kinds most expensive. -This road would greatly facilitate the opening and working of these -mines, and not only make them profitable but develop a large and -lucrative traffic. - -Much of Bolivia is above the navigable waters of the Amazon, and many -of its provinces are now land-locked and almost isolated from -communication with the outer world. The proposed road would cross many -branches of the Amazon, and thus connect with fifty thousand miles of -navigable waters, at least 9000 of which are above Iquitos; and it is -claimed that the business from 20,000 miles of navigable waters would -find by this route a nearer outlet to Europe and America than by Para. - -There is every variety of climate on the route. The valley of the -Magdalena is sultry; every afternoon the water grows tepid, and the -stones burning hot, in the sun's rays. In crossing the Cordilleras the -cool breezes of the mountains are met. The road then descends into the -valley of the Amazon, through a rich and not unhealthy region, though -it has the damp, hot, climate of a tropical country, and thence passes -through the montaņa district, which is generally high, healthy and -fertile. - -This country, under a wise government, is capable of sustaining an -immense population and giving abundant support to such a railroad; but -it is now unexplored, excepting the valleys of the navigable rivers, -and is uninhabited save by wild and savage Indians, though these are -not numerous. - -The route up the Magdalena may be expensive by reason of the climate, -but not otherwise. The road in the mountain district will necessarily -be costly, and also in the sierras, because it must {28} cross the -numerous branches of the Amazon, and the precipitous mountains between -the valleys, and from the difficulty of obtaining labor and material -for construction. Mr. Orton, who crossed from one branch of the Napo -to another, says: - -"We crossed the stream and the intervening ridges, and their name is -legion; sometimes we were climbing up an almost vertical ascent, then -descending into a deep dark ravine to find a furious river, while on -the lowlands the path seemed lost in the dense bamboos, until the -Indians opened a passage with their machetes and we crept under the -low arcade of foliage." - -Even if the railroad were built, almost all the produce of the Amazon -and montaņa country could be carried more cheaply by water to Para -than by rail to Cartagena; while goods from England and America would -be carried cheaper by steamer to the Isthmus of Panama, and thence to -all ports on the Pacific ocean, than by steamer to Cartagena and up -the Magdalena across the Andes to the valley of the Amazon, and then a -second time across the Andes to the Pacific ocean. The greater part of -the business to and from the mines would be by the railroad. - -At present, as there could not be sufficient business to pay the -operating expenses of such a road, it must rely on government -subsidies to build and operate it. - -Those who have given the most consideration to the subject say that -the road need not be an expensive one to operate, and in the important -element of time it would have a great advantage over the route via -Para. As a means of promoting the settlement of the country and -developing commerce, which cannot exist without population, the -railroad would seem to be a necessity, for navigation has neither -opened the country nor brought in emigrants and we may fairly assume -that it will not suffice in the future. - - -CONCLUSION. - -In conclusion I will quote from two writers on tropical America. -Buckle says: - -"Amidst the pomp and splendor of nature, no place is left for man; he -is reduced to insignificance by the majesty with which he is -surrounded. The forces that oppose are so formidable that he has never -been able to make head against them. - -"The energies of nature have hampered his spirit; nowhere else is the -contrast so painful between the grandeur of the external world and -{29} the littleness of the internal, and the mind, cowed by this -unequal struggle, has been unable to advance. - -"Here, where physical resources are the most powerful, where -vegetation and animals are most abundant, where the soil is watered by -the noblest rivers and the coast studded by the finest harbors, the -profusion of nature has hindered social progress and opposed that -accumulation of wealth without which progress is impossible." - -Mr. Bates, the naturalist, after a residence of many years on the -Amazon, closes his book as follows: - -"The superiority of the bleak north to tropical regions is only in its -social aspects, for I hold to the opinion that although humanity can -reach an advanced state of culture only by battling with the -inclemency of nature in high latitudes, it is under the equator alone -that the perfect race of the future will attain to complete fruition -of man's beautiful heritage, the earth." - -_Washington, January, 1891_. - -{30} - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. -III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891, by Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - -***** This file should be named 63012-8.txt or 63012-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/0/1/63012/ - -Produced by Ron Swanson -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Hubbard</title> - <link rel="coverpage" href="images/img-cover.jpg"> - <style type="text/css"> - <!-- - body {margin:12%; text-align:justify} - h1 {text-align:center} - h2 {text-align:center} - h3 {text-align:center} - h4 {text-align:center} - h5 {text-align:center} - .pagenum {position:absolute; left:92%; text-align:right;} --> - </style> -</head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. -III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891, by Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891 - -Author: Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -Release Date: August 22, 2020 [EBook #63012] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - - - - -Produced by Ron Swanson - - - - - -</pre> - -<center><img src="images/img-cover.jpg" alt="cover"></center> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page1"><small><small>[p. 1]</small></small></a></span> -<center><small>V<small>OL</small>. III, PP 1–30, PL 1 - - - -M<small>ARCH</small> 28, 1891.</small></center> -<h4>THE</h4> -<h2>NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE.</h2> -<hr> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<br> -<h3>SOUTH AMERICA.</h3> - -<h5>A<small>NNUAL</small> A<small>DDRESS BY THE</small> P<small>RESIDENT</small>,</h5> - -<h4>GARDINER G. HUBBARD.</h4> - -<center>(<i>Presented to the Society December 19, 1890.</i>)</center> -<br> -<hr align="center" width="25%"> -<br> -<p>Two years ago I selected for my annual address <i>Africa, or the Dark -Continent;</i> last year <i>Asia, the Land of Mountains and Deserts;</i> this -year I have chosen <i>South America, the Land of Rivers and Pampas</i>.</p> - -<a name="PL1"></a> -<table align="center" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6" summary="Plate 1"> - <tr> - <td width="723" align="center"> - <small>NAT GEOG. MAG. - - - - - - - VOL. III, 1891, PL. 1.</small> - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td width="723"> - <img src="images/01.jpg" alt="South America"> - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td width="723" align="center"> - <small>From the International Cylopedia, by permission of - Dodd, Mead & Company.</small> - </td> - </tr> -</table> -<br><br> - -<p>The recent meeting of the Pan-American Congress has called attention -to South America, a part of our continent under republican forms of -government and rich in products which we lack, while it relies mainly -on other foreign countries for goods which we manufacture. North -America and South America should be more closely united, for the one -is the complement of the other.</p> - -<p>The prominent features of South America are its long ranges of -mountains—next to the Himalayas the highest in the world,—its great -valley, and its immense plateau extending from the Straits of Magellan -to the Caribbean sea.</p> -<br> - -<center>T<small>HE</small> M<small>OUNTAINS</small>.</center> - -<p>The Andes rise in the extreme south at Cape Horn, run in a -northerly course through Patagonia and southern Chili; thence -continuing in three nearly parallel ranges, the western chain called -the Andes, the others known as the Cordilleras, through Peru, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page2"><small><small>[p. 2]</small></small></a></span> -Bolivia and Ecuador to Colombia. The Cordilleras and the Andes are -connected in several places by knots or cross-chains of mountains. In -Colombia the Andes turn to the northwest, reaching their lowest -elevation at the Panama canal, and continue thence, through Central -America and North America as the Rocky Mountains, to the Arctic ocean. -Near the source of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers in Colombia, the -eastern range is deflected to the east along the northern coast of -South America. The central range disappears between the Magdalena and -Cauca rivers.</p> - -<p>The Andes form the water-shed of the continent. The waters on the -western slope flow into the Pacific ocean. The rivers that rise on the -eastern slope, in northern Peru and Ecuador, force their way through -the Cordilleras and at their foot drain the montaņa of Bolivia, Peru -and Brazil. In the southern part of Peru and upper Chili there is a -broad sierra or plateau, at an elevation of from twelve to fourteen -thousand feet. The streams that rise in this sierra either empty into -salt or alkaline lakes or sink into the ground.</p> - -<p>Unlike all other long ranges of mountains, the continental or eastern -side of the Cordilleras is nearly as precipitous as that extending to -the Pacific. Craters of extinct volcanoes and volcanoes now in -eruption are found in all parts of the chain. In Ecuador there are -fifty-two volcanoes, and twenty of these, covered with perpetual snow -and presided over by Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, rise out of a group of -mountains encircling the valley of Quito, and are all visible from a -single point. Three are active and five others have been in eruption -at one or more times since the conquest. One of these, Sangai, is the -most active volcano on the globe: it sends forth a constant stream of -fire, water, mud and ashes, and some assert that it has done so -without intermission for 300 years; 267 explosions have been counted -in one hour. This is also the land of earthquakes: in 1868, 50,000 -lives, we are told, were lost in one day; the tremor was felt over -four countries and from the Andes to the Sandwich Islands. The tidal -wave washed a gunboat of the United States on shore at Arica in lower -Peru, 1000 miles to the south, and sixteen hours later the wave was -felt across the Pacific at New Zealand.</p> - -<p>A range of mountains separates Eastern Venezuela and Guiana from the -valley of the Amazon. Other ranges south of the Amazon run -southwestwardly, following the Atlantic coast line from Cape St. Roque -to the Rio de la Plata.</p> -<br> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page3"><small><small>[p. 3]</small></small></a></span> -<center>R<small>IVER</small> S<small>YSTEMS</small>.</center> - -<p>A great oceanic current flows along the western coast of Africa to the -equator, where it is deflected across the Atlantic ocean and becomes -the equatorial current. On reaching the coast of South America near -Cape St. Roque, it is again deflected north and south. Trade winds -blowing over the equatorial current reach the coast at Brazil -surcharged with vapor; as they follow up the valley of the Amazon the -vapors are partially condensed and frequent showers refresh the land; -but when the clouds at the foot-hills of the Andes meet the colder -winds from the south and strike the snow summits of the Cordilleras, -all the moisture is condensed, and the rain falls in tropical showers -for half the year and waters the largest and richest valley in the -world.</p> - -<p>In this valley, among the Cordilleras, three great rivers—the -Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata—rise. The mountain ranges north and -south of the Amazon divide this great valley into three lesser -valleys, down which the Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata flow, -watering three-fourths of South America.</p> -<br> - -<center><i>The Orinoco</i>.</center> - -<p>The headwaters of the Orinoco rise in two ranges of mountains; the -Cordilleras in the west, and the mountains of Venezuela many hundred -miles to the east. Four hundred tributaries, abounding in beautiful -falls and cataracts, unite to form this great river.</p> - -<p>The whole valley for 1600 miles is filled with dense and tangled -forests. Noble trees of unrivalled beauty blossom in endless -prodigality. Birds of gorgeous plumage nestle in their lofty recesses. -Tall ferns, vines, creeping plants and parasites form a dense tangle -of undergrowth, swarming with life. Myriads of insects in great -variety, reptiles of strange and singular form, lizards and venemous -serpents find their homes and sustenance in the wild, dense mass of -vegetation.</p> -<br> - -<center><i>The Amazon</i>.</center> - -<p>The valley of the Amazon collects its waters from a region 1800 miles -wide from north to south and 2500 miles long from the Andes to the -Atlantic ocean. Even at the foot of the Andes the Amazon is a mighty -river. The valley rapidly narrows to a width of 600 or 700 miles, and -then more gradually to the ocean, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page4"><small><small>[p. 4]</small></small></a></span> -where it is only 150 miles wide. -Its total fall from the foot-hills of the Andes to the Atlantic is -very slight, not over three or four hundred feet, and probably -considerably less.</p> - -<p>The rims of the valley are formed of diorite and sandstone, and are -raised only a little above the flood-plain, which is formed of mud and -silt, the detritus brought down by the Amazon and its tributaries. The -flood-plain is from fifty to one hundred miles wide, gradually -narrowing as it approaches the ocean. Through this valley the Amazon -cuts its way, separating often into channels which sometimes run -parallel to each other for several hundred miles, frequently forming -large islands, or expanding into lakes. Similar flood-plains are found -on all its larger tributaries.</p> - -<p>Up from the ocean into this valley an immense tidal wave rolls, with a -bore, twice a day, forcing back the current of the Amazon 500 miles -and inundating a portion of the flood-plain.</p> - -<p>In the early autumn the equatorial rise commences in the headwaters of -its tributaries, far south of the equator. The rains and melting snow -raise the streams, and these the waters of the Amazon. As the sun -crosses the equator and moves to the north the rain follows its -course, and the branches that have their source in the east and -northeast add their flood to the waters of the southerly branches. The -flood in the Amazon is thus continued for nearly six months, raising -its waters from 30 to 50 feet. The channels are filled, and the -flood-plains are overflowed. The whole valley becomes a net-work of -navigable waters, with islands and channels and lakes innumerable, -forming a great inland sea, which the Brazilians call the -Mediterranean of America. The upland, though only a little above the -flood-plain, is rarely overflowed.</p> - -<p>The plants and animals of the flood-plain were formerly considered as -distinct from those of the upland as are the plants and animals of -Europe from those of America; but later investigations show that there -is but little difference between the species.</p> - -<p>The sea breeze blows up the valley about a thousand miles. Then for -1500 miles the atmosphere is stagnant and sultry; the climate is that -of a permanent vapor bath. The dense foliage forms dark, lofty vaults -which the sunlight never penetrates, and over all hangs a perpetual -mist. The abundance and beauty of vegetation increases, and the trees -which at the mouth of the river blossom only once a year, here bloom -and bear fruit all the year round.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page5"><small><small>[p. 5]</small></small></a></span> -<p>Many great rivers run into the Amazon from the north and the -south, most of them navigable, for many hundred miles. The Madeira, -its greatest tributary, after running 2000 miles, empties into the -king of rivers, without making any perceptible difference in its width -or depth.</p> - -<p>This mighty current, rushing into the ocean, meets the equatorial -current and for over one hundred miles keeps on nearly a straight -course, when the stronger and mightier oceanic current deflects it to -the north. At from 200 to 300 miles from land, the sea is strongly -tinged, and in April and May has nearly the clay-yellow hue of the -Amazon. And even further north, about 400 miles from its mouth, the -naturalist on the Amazon tells us, "we passed numerous patches of -floating grass mingled with tree trunks and withered foliage; among -these I espied many fruits of the Amazonian palm. And this was the -last I saw of the Amazon."</p> -<br> - -<center><i>The Rio de la Plata</i>.</center> - -<p>The La Plata, the outlet of the waters of central South America, is -formed by the union of the Uruguay and Parana, about 150 miles from -the ocean; a little lower down, at Montevideo, it is 62 miles wide and -widens rapidly to the Atlantic, where it discharges more water than -all the rivers of Europe. The tributaries of the Parana are -fan-shaped. Its most eastern branches rise in the mountains of Brazil, -within seventy miles of the Atlantic ocean; and 1500 miles away, on -the other side of the continent, its most western tributaries rise -only 125 miles from the Pacific.</p> - -<p>Steamers ascend the Parana, Paraguay and Cuyaba, 2100 miles to Cuyaba, -and the river with its branches is navigable for 5000 miles.</p> -<br> - -<center><i>The San Francisco</i>.</center> - -<p>The San Francisco, about 1800 miles long, rises near Rio de Janeiro -and flows north about 1200 miles between parallel ranges of mountains, -then turns east and forces its way through the coast range to the -Atlantic ocean. It runs through the gold and diamond regions of -Brazil, and has a considerable population along its banks. It has many -falls and rapids, and considerable slack-water navigation.</p> -<br> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page6"><small><small>[p. 6]</small></small></a></span> -<center>G<small>ENERAL</small> D<small>ESCRIPTION</small>.</center> - -<p>In Asia, the different countries have natural boundaries; the people, -soil and climate of one country are unlike those of others. In Europe -there are few natural boundaries, though different races inhabit the -several states.</p> - -<p>In South America only one dominant race is found, and though natural -boundaries exist, yet they do not serve as boundaries to the different -states, other than Venezuela and Guiana. Venezuela and Guiana are -watered by the Orinoco and by several rivers that flow from the -Amazonian mountains to the ocean. The whole coast is low and fertile, -but hot and unhealthy. The principal product is sugar, raised by -negroes and coolies. The interior is sultry and thickly wooded; it is -inhabited by Indian tribes, the principal of which are the cannibal -Caribs, and by negroes as uncivilized as any of the tribes in Africa. -Guiana is controlled by the English, French, and Dutch. Cayenne, the -prison for French convicts, is the capital of French Guiana.</p> - -<p>Colombia and Ecuador occupy the northwestern part of South America. -They are situated on both sides of the Andes, and have every variety -of climate. The country is well watered; fertile but unhealthy on the -coast, fertile and healthy on the elevated plains, cold and barren on -the mountains.</p> - -<p>In Brazil, besides the Amazon, La Plata and San Francisco, there are -several large rivers with fertile valleys; but occasional droughts, -sometimes lasting for two years, will prevent portions of Brazil from -becoming densely inhabited.</p> - -<p>On the Pacific coast south of Ecuador, the rainfall becomes less and -less. For three thousand miles along the coast of Peru and Chili there -is no natural harbor; a plain from ten to fifty miles in width extends -from the Pacific to the foot-hills of the Andes. The Antarctic current -runs along this coast; the southeasterly winds blow over it on to the -land and cool the air; but as the winds are of low temperature their -scanty vapor is dissipated by the heat radiated from the land, and not -a drop of rain refreshes the thirsty soil. Many mountain torrents run -from the snow-clad summits of the Andes, and the beauty of their -narrow valleys forms a grateful contrast to the dry and barren sands -of the plain.</p> - -<p>In the southern part of Chili and in that part formerly called -Patagonia, rain is abundant and the country is fertile.</p> - -<p>The longest stretch of low and comparatively level land to be -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page7"><small><small>[p. 7]</small></small></a></span> -found in the world extends through the center of South America. A boat -starting from the Caribbean sea could sail up the Orinoco over a -thousand miles, then down the Casquiare, which runs from the Orinoco -into the Rio Negro, down that river to the Amazon, up the Amazon to -the Madeira, then up that river and one of its branches through Brazil -and Bolivia, and with a short portage of six and a half miles to one -of the branches of the Paraguay, down the Paraguay and La Plata to the -ocean.</p> - -<p>The level land crosses the La Plata and continues southward through -the Argentine Republic and Patagonia to the Straits of Magellan. -Within this plain lie all the interior of Venezuela and Brazil, a part -of Bolivia, all Paraguay, Uruguay, and the Argentine Republic. The -pampas resemble our prairies, but run from north to south, while the -prairies run from east to west.</p> - -<p>The streams in the plain south of the valley of the La Plata rise in -the Andes and flow southeastward to the Atlantic.</p> -<br> - -<center>T<small>HE</small> A<small>BORIGINES</small>.</center> - -<p>The aborigines of America, except the Esquimaux, are unlike the -natives of other countries; the most marked difference is in their -language. They are divided into a number of tribes differing from each -other in some respects, yet with manners, customs and religious -beliefs generally similar.</p> - -<p>In South America there are more than one hundred distinct languages, -and two thousand dialects. About five or six million Indians have as -many dialects as are found among the 800,000,000 inhabitants of Europe -and Asia. Their languages are polysynthetic, being of a higher type -than the agglutinative languages. In the polysynthetic tongue the -substantive, adjective and verb are joined or combined, and oftentimes -a whole sentence will be comprised in a single word.</p> - -<p>The natives in the valleys of the Orinoco and Amazon are forced to -cultivate a little ground on the flood-plains, as the forests are -thick and impenetrable. They live principally on the fruit of the palm -(of which there are five hundred varieties), cocoa and bananas, fish -and turtles. There are no roads or paths through the forests except -the numerous channels of the rivers, called igarapes or furos. The -tribes on the pampas live principally on game and wild cattle.</p> - -<p>Humboldt tells us that the navigator on the Orinoco sees with surprise -at night the palm trees illuminated by large fires. From -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page8"><small><small>[p. 8]</small></small></a></span> the -trunks of these trees are suspended the habitations of a tribe of -Indians, who make their fires on mats hung in the air and filled with -moist clay. The same palm tree furnishes also food and wine and -clothing, and thus supplies every want and even the luxuries of life.</p> - -<p>The Indian race as a whole is believed to be superior to both the -negro and the Malay, as neither of those races has ever attained to -the civilization of the Incas of Peru or of the Indians of Mexico and -the Aztecs of Central America. Many of their myths and folk tales are -common, not only to the Indians of one part of the country, but also -to other tribes in distant parts of the continent, and even to the -negroes of Africa, and the Arabs of upper Egypt. All the tribes on the -continent have substantially the same habits of life, the same methods -of warfare, the same general characteristics, and a language built -substantially on the same plan.</p> - -<p>From these observations it might seem that the Indian tribes of South -America were allied to those of Africa or to the Malays, but on -further consideration the similarity seems due rather to a like stage -of civilization than to identity of race.</p> -<br> - -<center>T<small>HE</small> I<small>NCAS OF</small> P<small>ERU</small>.</center> - -<p>In crossing from Arequipa in Peru to La Paz in Bolivia, the road -ascends the Andes, makes a slight descent into the barren, desolate -valley between the Andes and Cordilleras, crosses Lake Titicaca, and -then descends to La Paz. Lake Titicaca, the largest lake of South -America, is on a plateau between twelve and thirteen thousand feet in -height, the most elevated table land on the globe, excepting Thibet. -This lake is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad mountains, the highest of -which is Illampa, 22,300 feet in height.</p> - -<p>On this lake are the remains of the most ancient civilization of South -America. Cyclopean ruins of temples and fortresses stand as perpetual -monuments of a vanished culture; when and by whom they were erected, -we know not; their builders left no other record of their existence. -The wandering Indians told the first Spaniards that they existed -before the sun shone in the heavens. From one of the rocky islands of -Lake Titicaca, about the year 1000 or 1100, the Sun, parent of mankind -and giver of every good gift, taking compassion on the degraded -condition of <span class="pagenum"><a name="page9"><small><small>[p. 9]</small></small></a></span> -the Indians, sent two of his children, Manco Capac -and Mama Oello Huaco, to gather the wandering tribes into communities, -to teach them the arts of civilized life and to inculcate the worship -of the Sun. From Lake Titicaca, this brother and sister, husband and -wife, went down the valley to Cuzco, where they were bidden to found -an empire. Manco Capac was thus the first Inca. There were ten or -twelve Incas before the conquest of Peru. Their conquests extended -through the entire valley of the Cordilleras, until over four hundred -tribes, with a population of many millions, became subject to their -dominion.</p> - -<p>The territory of the Incas extended from the southern part of Chili -northward into Colombia, beyond Quito, a distance of two thousand -miles, and west to the Pacific Ocean. On the eastern slope of the -Cordilleras, toward the great plain of the Amazon, the Incas met a -stronger and more savage people, with whom they were in constant -warfare. In the several passes of the Cordilleras they constructed -fortifications to protect their borders and prevent invasion.</p> - -<p>The capital of the territory, Cuzco, was situated in a beautiful -valley ten thousand feet above the sea. Amidst the Alps, such a valley -would be buried in eternal snow, but within the tropics it enjoys a -perpetual spring. Here the Incas loved to dwell, and remains of -immense fortresses, palaces and temples, testify to their power and -culture, and to the number of their subjects. Tens of thousands of -laborers must have been required to construct such edifices. When we -reflect that these people had no beasts of burden except the llama, -which could only carry light loads, and no mechanical means for -transporting the vast blocks of stone used in constructing these -buildings, we are astonished at what they accomplished. The pyramids -of Egypt are not more wonderful.</p> - -<p>Great highways were built, running north, south and west, connecting -different parts of the Empire. One followed the valley between the -Cordilleras and Andes to Quito, another crossed the Andes and followed -the sea-coast north and south to the extreme limits of their country. -All traveling was on foot. Large and comfortable tambos, or inns, were -erected every few miles, and larger ones at the end of a day's -journey. Couriers were stationed at regular intervals, each of whom -had his allotted station, between which and the next it was his duty -to run at a certain pace bearing his message, and on his approach to -the <span class="pagenum"><a name="page10"><small><small>[p. 10]</small></small></a></span> -next station he signalled to the next chasquir, as the -couriers were called, to be ready to carry forward the message. In -this way, it is said, about 150 miles a day were made.</p> - -<p>These couriers traveled more quickly than the mail-carriers of Europe, -and the means of communication were then, Squier tells us, far better -than they are to-day. Many of these old tambos are still maintained. -One in which Squier spent the night was 180 feet in length, with rooms -forming three sides of a court.</p> - -<p>The country of the Incas had every variety of climate, and the -products were those of every part of the new world. On the coast, -perpetual summer reigns, with all the variety and beauty of tropical -vegetation. At a higher elevation, the trees are always green, and -while one kind sheds its blossoms and ripens its fruit another is -budding and unfolding its bloom. Meantime, on the top of the mountains -is eternal winter. In some places, as at Potosi, the changes of -temperature are frequent and extremes of heat and cold are experienced -in a single day. The weather in the early morning is frosty; in the -forenoon, mild and balmy; in the afternoon, scorching, and in the -evening, cool and delicious.</p> - -<p>On the Pacific slope of the Andes, reservoirs were constructed, from -which irrigating canals watered the whole plain now lying desolate and barren.</p> - -<p>The conquered tribes were incorporated into the nation and became the -people of the Incas. If the conquered tribe was strong and warlike, -some of its members were removed to distant parts of the country and -were replaced by the inhabitants of those regions, to whom privileges -and immunities were given as compensation for the change of home. The -conquered tribes quickly realized the benefits of the rule of the -Incas and became faithful and loyal subjects.</p> - -<p>The government of the Incas was a paternal despotism controlling the -most minute affairs of daily life. Knowledge, the Incas taught, "was -not intended for the people, but for those of generous ability, for it -would render persons of low degree vain and arrogant."</p> - -<p>The Incas established a communal system similar to that of Russia. -One-third of the land belonged to the Inca, one-third to the priests -of the Sun, and the remainder to the people, who were required to -cultivate the land of the Inca and of the priests, as well as their -own. The land was divided among the families yearly, according to -their number. Every newly -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page11"><small><small>[p. 11]</small></small></a></span> -married couple received a stated -portion which was increased as the family increased.</p> - -<p>Their only means of writing was by a cord, called quippus, about two -feet long, composed of threads of different colors twisted together, -from which a quantity of smaller threads hung like a knotted fringe. -The colors denoted sensible objects or sometimes abstract ideas, -though the principal use of the quippus was for arithmetical purposes.</p> - -<p>The civilization of the Incas appears to have been of a higher order -than that of the Mexicans. It is not probable that hieroglyphics were -in use among any of the South American Indians, though it is said that -traces of a pictorial alphabet have been found. The people were -contented and happy, although they were deprived of personal liberty, -although their daily life was supervised by their rulers, and although -they held only communal rights of property. They had neither ambition -nor strong love of country.</p> - -<p>When Pizarro landed in Peru there were two Incas, one at Cuzco and the -other at Quito, and the bitter conflict which was raging between them -made the conquest of both easy. Pizarro had only 180 followers, but -they were Spanish cavaliers, carrying fire-arms; and with this small -force he overturned the Incas and enslaved the people. The descendants -of the Quichuas, or the people of the Incas, still inhabit the land—a -mild, apathetic, servile and dejected race. It is said that after the -conquest the women put on a black mantle, which they have worn ever -since, as perpetual mourning for the last of the Incas.</p> - -<p>There are a few descendants of Spaniards in Peru, but the population -consists chiefly of the descendants of the Quichuas and mixed -Spaniards and Quichuas. The Peruvians of to-day are less civilized -than those who lived 400 years ago; they have less liberty and are poorer.</p> -<br> - -<center>D<small>ISCOVERY OF THE</small> A<small>MAZON</small>.</center> - -<p>Great rivers have usually been discovered and explored by ascending -them from the ocean to their sources; the Congo and the Amazon were -explored downward from their sources to the ocean.</p> - -<p>Three hundred and fifty years ago, Gonzalo Pizarro, then governor of -Upper Peru, heard of a land of silver and gold, spices and precious -stones; a land where spring reigned and all tropical fruits abounded. -He determined to follow the little -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page12"><small><small>[p. 12]</small></small></a></span> -stream which, rising in the -Andes, near Quito, flowed eastward; to explore the country, and find -the happy land. He set out with 350 Cavaliers, mounted on Spanish -horses and attended by 4000 Indian slaves.</p> - -<p>The first part of the route was easy; the little stream soon became a -river, then broadened into the Napo; but the farther they went, the -slower and more difficult was their progress as they passed from the -open forest and the cool and invigorating breezes of the Andes into -the sultry valley of the Napo. Their way now led through forests more -dense, darker and more impenetrable than those described by Stanley, -for the valley of the Amazon is richer than the valley of the Congo. -Natives armed with poisoned arrows opposed their progress; food became -scarce, treachery was on every side, and their number gradually -diminished by death and by desertion of the slaves.</p> - -<p>The natives told them of a greater river than the Napo which they -would find a few days' voyage farther down. This river, they said, -flowed through a more populous and richer country, where food was -abundant and gold was found in every stream. Pizarro determined to -build a bark and to send Orellano as commander to find and return with -food and succor. For this vessel, the forests furnished the timber; -the shoes of the horses were converted into nails, distilled gum was -used for pitch, and the garments of the soldiers were a substitute for -oakum. In two months, a brigantine was launched, the first European -vessel that ever floated on the waters of the Amazon. The Napo grew -broader and deeper as the little company rapidly floated down, until -it became a mile wide. Three days after they left Pizarro, they saw -before them a river, many times larger than the Napo, which the -Indians called Parana-tinega, King of Waters; but we call it the -Amazon. There was no cultivation, little food could be obtained, and -the Indians were hostile instead of friendly. What was to be done? -Behind them was the wilderness, before them the promised land. The -journey back would be difficult and dangerous; the temptation to -explore the wonderful river was too great to resist. One man alone was -faithful to Pizarro, and he was left on the bank while Orellano sailed -down the river. The wonder of the explorers daily increased as other -rivers larger than the Napo flowed into the Amazon, now on the north, -more frequently on the south. Month after month passed, the river grew -so broad that they could not see from one side to the other. -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page13"><small><small>[p. 13]</small></small></a></span> -Great islands were passed, channels running parallel with the main -stream larger than any river they had ever seen. Still on they went, -till after several months they reached the Atlantic Ocean. Then they -sailed north in their little boat, skirting the coast to Trinidad, -where they found a vessel which bore them to Spain. They recounted the -story of the great river; the wonderful country through which they -passed; and the rich mines of which they had heard. They told fabulous -tales of the Amazonians they had encountered, strong and masculine -women, armed with bows and arrows, living by themselves, admitting men -into their country only one month in the year, killing or sending away -the male children and training the girls to become amazons and warriors.</p> - -<p>Orellano was received by the Queen; his treachery was forgotten and a -new expedition was sent out under his command; but he died before -reaching the river.</p> - -<p>Meantime, Pizarro and his followers slowly and with difficulty made -their way down the Napo, taking as many months to reach the Amazon as -Orellano had taken days. They looked in vain for their companions, but -found only the solitary man who had been left behind, scarcely alive, -and from him learned of Orellano's desertion. Further explorations -being impossible, they turned back, reached Quito two years after -their departure, their horses gone, their arms broken or rusted, the -skins of wild animals their only clothing. "The charnel house seemed -to have given up its dead, as they glided onward like a troop of -spectres." Half of the Indians had perished, and of the three hundred -and fifty cavaliers only eighty were left.</p> - -<p>Such was the end of an expedition which for dangers and hardships, -length of duration, and constancy displayed is probably unmatched in -the annals of American discovery.</p> -<br> - -<center>G<small>UIANA</small>.</center> - -<p>Guiana is the only country of South America not inhabited by the Latin -race. It was acquired for Great Britain by one who acted contrary to -his instructions in attacking a power, Spain, with which his own -country was at peace.</p> - -<p>Gonzalo Pizarro, on his journey down the Napo in 1539, heard wonderful -stories of a golden city far away on the banks of the Orinoco, -surrounded by mountains of gold. Rumors of this golden city were -carried by English navigators to Great Britain, -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page14"><small><small>[p. 14]</small></small></a></span> -with legends of a -prince of Guiana, whose body, first smeared with turpentine, was then -powdered with gold dust, so that he strode among his people a majestic -golden statue. Adventurers started in search of this El Dorado, some -from Peru, others from Quito and from Trinidad; but the golden city -was never found. They, however, brought back reports of chiefs whose -bodies sparkled with gold dust as they danced, who had golden eagles -dangling from their breasts and great pearls from their ears; they -told of mines of diamonds and gold, and of the natives who longed to -exchange their jewels for jews-harps.</p> - -<p>Sir Walter Raleigh determined to find this country and bring to his -queen its fabulous riches, for he believed that the silver and gold -mines of Mexico and Peru had made Spain the first state in -Christendom—"that purchaseth intelligence and creepeth into counsels -and endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of Europe."</p> - -<p>In 1595, Sir Walter sailed from England and arrived at the Isle of -Trinidad, where he overthrew the Spaniards, then sailed up the -Orinoco, or one of its branches, four hundred miles, until hunger and -sickness compelled him to return. Although he did not reach the golden -city, he could see the mountains far in the distance which he believed -surrounded it, and he found the shining sand on the banks of the -Orinoco. In Guiana he raised the flag of England and compelled the -Indians to swear fealty to his queen.</p> - -<p>Twenty years later, a prisoner in the Tower, he was released in order -to make a second voyage in search of this El Dorado for King James. He -sailed in 1617, accompanied by his eldest son; but disaster and -sickness met him at every step. He reached the Orinoco again, too -feeble to land. So his son and Captain Keymis went instead. Keymis -returned after a month of exploration, bringing Raleigh the news of -the death of his son in an attack on a Spanish town. He brought -reports of the golden city, of the mines of gold, diamonds and -emeralds, but neither gold, diamonds nor emeralds to confirm the truth -of these reports. Raleigh said, "I am undone;" Keymis replied, "I know -then, Sir, what course to take." He went to his cabin and killed himself.</p> - -<p>Raleigh returned to England, a broken down old man. The Spaniards -demanded his life of James as they had demanded it of Elizabeth after -his first expedition, on the ground that in time of -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page15"><small><small>[p. 15]</small></small></a></span> peace Raleigh -had attacked the Spanish forces and invaded their country. Elizabeth -had refused, but James yielded. Raleigh was executed, but Guiana -became an English colony.</p> - -<p>The gold and silver mines of Peru have failed; little gold has been -found in Guiana, but its rich and fertile soil, watered by tropical -rains, has been a source of greater wealth than the gold mines of Peru.</p> -<br> - -<center>P<small>OPULATION OF</small> S<small>OUTH</small> A<small>MERICA</small>.</center> - -<p>As the countries of South America were all settled at about the same -time and by the same race and have passed through a like history, they -can be considered as a whole.</p> - -<p>The United States and Canada, with a rough, uncongenial climate and -sterile soil, were settled by the Anglo-Saxons, the remainder of the -western continent by the Latin race and, excepting Brazil and Guiana, -by Spaniards. In North America the Anglo-Saxon race has dominated, -carrying civilization from the Atlantic to the Pacific, expelling and -exterminating the aborigines. There has been no mingling of the -Anglo-Saxon and Indian races, no backward step, but ever civil, -religious and intellectual progress. The Latin race conquered Central -America and South America, a perfect Eden of natural loveliness, one -hundred years prior to the settlement of the Anglo-Saxon; yet to-day -they constitute but a thin layer over a scarcely populated country. -Their leaders were men of unbounded ambition, rapacious, of great -endurance, but cruel and unscrupulous. They sought adventure, -expecting it would bring them gold and silver. For that end they -plundered, despoiled and enslaved the Indians. Gold and silver flowed -into their hands; luxury, effeminacy, and weakness followed.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards in America have scarcely retained the civilization they -brought from the old world. They have intermarried with the Indians, -and this mixed race is said to inherit the vices of each of their -ancestors without the virtues of either.</p> - -<p>A sparse population, mostly Spanish and foreigners, inhabit a zone ten -to twenty miles in depth along the coast of South America, from the -Bay of Panama to the Caribbean sea. All the cities and settlements, -excepting a few in the Argentine Republic, are near the coast.</p> - -<p>Back of this zone, on the Pacific, is a mixed Spanish-Indian -population, much larger than the Spanish and foreign population; -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page16"><small><small>[p. 16]</small></small></a></span> -and on the Atlantic a population which is Spanish-Indian, -Spanish-Negro, and Negro-Indian, occupies a zone from twenty to one -hundred miles wide. Beyond the first zone a few Spanish families and -foreigners are found at the gold and silver mines, on the pampas, at -the cattle ranches, and on a few haciendas in Peru and Chili. In -Brazil the Portuguese and some Englishmen and Germans raise coffee and -sugar, and oversee the diamond and gold fields. On the Amazon there -are a few small settlements to collect the India rubber and cacao of -that valley.</p> - -<p>Save these sparse settlements, the interior of South America is -inhabited by wild tribes of Indians, uncivilized save for the presence -of a few Catholic priests, who have given the Indians the cross and -the image of the Virgin Mary, which they worship, mingling the -Catholic religion with their old idolatries and barbarous rites. The -natives are believed to be more idle and less civilized than when the -Spaniards discovered America.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards are the grandees of the country; too proud to work, they -leave all business to the foreigners and all labor to the Indians, -retaining in connection with the half-breeds all political power. When -the regents appointed by Spain were expelled in the early part of the -present century, republics were established, but they were republics -only in name; the people were neither educated nor fitted for -self-government. Their presidents generally exercised the powers of -dictators and often assumed that title. They have rarely enjoyed a -long rule, for their power and position were sought by others. -Revolution in these countries has passed from the acute to the chronic stage.</p> - -<p>A recent traveller in Peru, who wished to inspect its railroad system, -was informed that only 26 miles were in running order, the remainder -being under the control of the revolutionists who were then less than -80 miles from the capital. He asked why the rebels did not take Lima, -the capital, and was told, "because there is no unanimity among them; -they are suspicious of each other, and cannot depend upon any one -man." Instead of being anxious to serve their country they are only -interested in robbing her.</p> - -<p>Another traveller in Bolivia, who witnessed some of these revolutions, -says they sometimes occurred three times in as many weeks, and that it -would have been ludicrous had not their results been often violent and -tragic. There has been no settled government, no continued peace, no -permanent policy, in any Spanish -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page17"><small><small>[p. 17]</small></small></a></span> -country. The hope for the future -is that the English, German, and French population will increase and -become permanently identified with the country; they will then take an -active interest in politics and direct the policy and administration -of the government.</p> - -<p>Commercial and banking business is in the hands of the French, -Germans, and English. The Italians carry on a small trade at corner -groceries and fruit stores; the French keep the hotels and -restaurants; the English and Germans are the shippers, merchants and bankers.</p> - -<p>Regular lines of English, French, and German steamers run from Europe -to Panama and thence along the western coast of South America, -stopping at ports en route; some return by Panama, others sail around -Cape Horn to Europe by Buenos Ayres and Rio Janeiro. Other lines run -direct from Europe to Brazil, and twenty-four lines connect Europe and -the Argentine Republic; while there are only four lines of American -steamers trading to South America.</p> -<br> - -<center>B<small>RAZIL</small>.</center> - -<p>We have given a general description of South America, but three -countries—Brazil, the Argentine Republic and Peru—require further -notice: Brazil, because it is the largest country, occupying -three-sevenths of South America, and the only considerable state that -was not settled by the Spaniards; the Argentine Republic, because it -is the largest and most populous of the Spanish states and, with Peru, -illustrates the political and financial phases through which the -Spanish republics have passed.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Amazon makes Brazil the most fertile region of the -world. The tropical woods are so thick and the creepers and -undergrowth so luxuriant that animal life is almost entirely confined -to the trees above and the waters below.</p> - -<p>The valley is not unhealthy, and, though under the equator, the -climate is tempered by the trade winds and the evaporation from the -vast Amazonian waters. Beyond the valley is the montaņa district, -where the land is higher and the climate semi-tropical, where there -are few creepers, little underbrush, and open forests, and where both -animal and vegetable life is less abundant. Southward, beyond the -montaņa district, are the evergreen pampas, where no trees grow and -where the animal and vegetable life are unlike either that of the -valley of the Amazon or that of the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page18"><small><small>[p. 18]</small></small></a></span> -montaņa. As in Africa, so -here, men who live in the dark forest, die in the open. Mr. Stanley -selected thirty dwarfs from the tropical forests of Africa to take to -England, but as soon as they came into the grass-lands, the clear air -and bright sun, they languished and died before the coast was reached.</p> - -<p>Northeast of the pampas, on the Atlantic coast, south of the Amazon, -is a province bounded on the south by a range of high mountains, where -rain is abundant; at Maranhao, its seaport, there are 280 inches of -rainfall in the year. South of Maranhao there is much less rain; and -instead of two seasons, the wet and the dry, which prevail in the -valley of the Amazon, there are the four seasons of the year, but -without extremes of heat and cold.</p> - -<p>Over the greater part of Brazil grows the coffee tree, the -sheet-anchor of Brazilian prosperity, since it furnishes 60 per cent. -of all the coffee grown in the world. The plant is not indigenous to -Brazil, but was brought there about one hundred years ago from the old world.</p> - -<p>Brazil, inhabited by the Portuguese, with an imperial government, has -been saved from the anarchy and insolvency of the Spanish republics. -Her railroads have been built with economy and have been generally -successful. It had a population in 1885 of 11,000,000; two-thirds of -whom were Indians and negroes, and many of the negroes were slaves. -Slavery existed longer in Brazil than in any other civilized country; -the lash was commonly used on the plantation, and work continued from -early in the morning until late at night until 1888, when a law was -passed finally emancipating 1,300,000 slaves. It was opposed by the -planters, who said freedmen would not work, but would let the coffee -and sugar plantations fall to ruin. It was probably this act which -caused the overthrow of the empire, for in revenge the planters joined -the insurgents in establishing the Republic.</p> - -<p>The Portuguese and Brazilians are more peaceable and orderly than the -Spaniards or Spanish-Americans; we may therefore reasonably hope that -Brazil will not repeat the history of the Spanish republics, which has -been one of disintegration, for these republics have separated into -two or more States. The greatest difficulty in maintaining its immense -domain will arise from the enormous distances and the time required to -travel between different parts of the country. From Rio de Janeiro to -Matto Grosso is 140 days' journey by land, and by water the distance -is 3000 miles. Communication is maintained by steamer -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page19"><small><small>[p. 19]</small></small></a></span> through the -Argentine Republic up the Rio de la Plata and its branches. Although -the country has many long and navigable rivers, yet the means of -intercommunication are very poor; for the rivers are little used, and -the forests, creepers, and undergrowth are so dense that the country -back of the river-banks is impenetrable, and even if roads should be -opened the soil is so luxuriant that they would be quickly overgrown -and soon become impassable.</p> - -<p>Lines of steamers have been subsidized by the Brazilian government and -run up the Amazon 2000 miles to Tabatinga, at the boundary line of -Peru; there connecting with lines subsidized by the Peruvian -government, which run 1500 miles farther up the river. These vessels -carry supplies to the settlers and bring back India rubber, -Brazil-nuts, cacao, quinine, and the beautiful woods of the forest.</p> - -<p>Yet steamers are rarely seen on the Amazon; they have few passengers, -and have not opened the country; we are told that the Mississippi -carries more vessels in a month, and the Yang-tse-kiang in a day, than -the Amazon in a year.</p> -<br> - -<center>T<small>HE</small> A<small>RGENTINE</small> R<small>EPUBLIC</small>.</center> - -<p>The history of South American republics is illustrated in the -Argentine republic.</p> - -<p>It is a vast pampas or prairie, extending from Brazil to the Andes, -and from Bolivia with a southeasterly trend 2000 miles to southeastern -Terra del Fuego.</p> - -<p>The climate of the northern portion is tropical; of the central part, -semi-tropical; of the extreme south, temperate or cold. The country is -generally well watered excepting in the northwestern part, where the -land is dry and alkaline, like the arid regions of North America. The -soil is a rich, deep loam, from four to six feet in depth, excepting -in Patagonia and the western pampas, where there is a coarse gravel -and detritus from the Andes. Instead of the dense tropical forest of -the Amazon valley, the pampas are covered by a coarse grass, three or -four feet high, growing in large tussocks and all the year round of a -dark green. The strong grass crowds out all trees and almost all -plants, so that scarcely a flower relieves the uniform, everlasting verdure.</p> - -<p>Instead of the arboreal animals of the Amazon there is the rhea or -American ostrich, "ship of the wilderness," adapted to the -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page20"><small><small>[p. 20]</small></small></a></span> -pampas, but unable to live in the forests. The gauchos have hunted it -for the last three centuries, but it is now passing away and will soon -be lost to the pampas, as the buffalo has been to the North American prairie.</p> - -<p>The pampas are far better adapted to the raising of cattle than our -prairies, for the grass is always green and the winters are milder. -Cattle, horses, and sheep imported by the Spaniards and turned on to -the pampas rapidly increased, and now immense herds feed on the -plains.</p> - -<p>The Indians who inhabit the pampas, instead of being confined to one -locality and journeying only by canoe, like the Indians on the Amazon, -wander over the length and breadth of the pampas, hunting the ostrich -and cattle. The cattle are tended by gauchos, as the cow-boys are -called, half-breeds as wild as the herds they tend. Constant warfare -exists between the Indians and the gauchos, unless they unite to -attack the settlers. After one of the Indian raids the government dug -an immense ditch from a river to the Andes and drove the Indians to -the farther side, and since then there have been fewer raids—and -fewer Indians.</p> - -<p>The land was held in large blocks of many thousand acres, worked by -overseers and gauchos. The animals were killed by hundreds of -thousands for their skins. This state of things is, however, gradually -passing away, for during the last twenty years emigrants from the old -world have settled in the country as farmers and planters.</p> - -<p>The fourteen provinces which form the Argentine Republic have never -been welded into one nation, and have seldom had a moment's peace. The -gauchos have been a continual scourge, and the gaucho generals its -rulers and harriers combined. Unfortunately, here, as in other Spanish -states, one dictator has succeeded another. Thirty presidents, or -dictators, have reigned within fifty years. At one time five provinces -had each a separate dictator. The neighboring republic of Uruguay, -formerly a part of the Argentine Confederation, had 26 revolutions in -the twenty-three years from 1864 to 1887.</p> - -<p>For some time Buenos Ayres and its dictator ruled the republic; then -the country provinces rebelled, and civil war ensued; one province was -arrayed against another, and all against Buenos Ayres. The provinces -prevailed and the gaucho general, Rosas, occupied Buenos Ayres. -Scarcely was this civil war ended when a war arose with the republics -of Uruguay and Paraguay.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page21"><small><small>[p. 21]</small></small></a></span> -<p>Money was required to pay the army and the cost of civil and -foreign wars. Every dictator had his friends for whom provision must -be made. Large debts were created; banks were chartered; $200,000,000 -of paper money were issued. There were several different circulating -mediums; each province strove to outdo the others in the issue of a -currency which quickly depreciated. Companies for different purposes -were organized, and many were subsidized, directly or indirectly. We -are told that in one case $1,500,000 was paid for a concession, and -that "Turkish officials, who have hitherto been the champion artists -in backsheesh, leave off where Argentine blackmailers begin; the price -of a drainage scheme at Buenos Ayres would buy a whole cabinet of -pashas at Galata."</p> - -<p>Railroads were built running from Buenos Ayres in different -directions, as each province demanded a railroad, with little regard -to its population or business.</p> - -<p>A road was commenced to cross the Andes and open communication between -the Atlantic and Pacific over mountains which had never been crossed -by a carriage of any kind.</p> - -<p>The country was not settled so rapidly as the rulers desired. -Inducements were therefore offered to immigrants. The passage money -from Europe and the expenses of the immigrant to his new home have -been paid and land for settlement sold at low rates. It is estimated -that over 1,000,000 foreigners have settled in the country during the -last twelve years, and the proportionate increase of population in the -same period has been twice as great as that of the United States. -Grazing lands have been sold at nominal prices to immigrants, or -leased for terms of years in lots of 6,000 acres at a rental of $100 a -year. Bonds were issued not only by the government but by the -provinces, by the municipalities and by the railroads, and all were -readily taken in England and Germany. To enable the emigrants to pay -for and to cultivate their land, the owner of real estate on -depositing his title deeds with the hypothecary banks and having a -valuation of his real estate, received cedulas, or bonds of the bank, -for one-half its appraised value; these cedulas for large amounts were -issued and sold in Europe; and thus, as ever, more money was required, -more bonds were issued. In 1889, a year of peace, the public debt was -increased 120 per cent., and it is now said to be over one thousand -four hundred millions of dollars, and the principal and interest of -two-thirds of this amount is payable in gold at a premium of 200 per cent.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page22"><small><small>[p. 22]</small></small></a></span> -<p>In 1890 there was no money to meet the interest and general -prostration ensued.</p> - -<p>It is difficult to ascertain the debt of the republic; but if the -accounts given in the English publications are correct the debt is -greater in proportion to its population and wealth than that of any -other country in the world. The only hope of the Argentine Republic is -to wipe out the debt by insolvency and bankruptcy.</p> -<br> - -<center>P<small>ERU</small>.</center> - -<p>A strip of land with 1200 miles of sea coast, without a natural -harbor, and 200 to 300 miles wide, consisting of a plain, mountains, a -plateau, and still another range of mountains—this is Peru.</p> - -<p>In the west, where the rain never falls, are numerous small rivers, -to-day mountain torrents, to-morrow dry, rocky beds.</p> - -<p>Between the lofty ranges of snow mountains is the highest plateau in -the world, after Thibet. The southern part of this plateau is dry and -desolate, the northern portion is well watered, with beautiful streams -running now through deep caņons and then through rich, fertile valleys -steadily descending toward the northeast; the valleys growing ever -broader, warmer and more delightful, until the montaņa is reached, -only a few hundred feet above the Atlantic, where the streams have -become rivers, navigable to the ocean.</p> - -<p>The western slope of the mountains is dry and barren, so that -breadstuffs and provisions are imported from Ecuador on the north, or -from lower Chili, far to the south. Yet no other country has -contributed so much to the world's fertility; for here are the great -deposits of guano and nitrates, more valuable than mines of gold and -silver. These deposits yielded for over thirty years a net annual -revenue of $20,000,000.</p> - -<p>The eastern slope, rich and fertile, producing every tree and flower, -all fruits and vegetables grown in any part of the world; in the -mountains, mines of gold and silver, platinum and cinnabar, copper and -tin, lead and iron, coal and petroleum, nitrates and asphalt: a -bankrupt nation in the midst of untold wealth—such is Peru.</p> - -<p>To bring the minerals down to the ocean, tens of millions of dollars -were expended on thirteen roads; but though none of them were ever -finished, they reached a few of the poorer mines. Seven of these roads -were built by the government, the others by private parties.</p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page23"><small><small>[p. 23]</small></small></a></span> -<p>The sales of guano and the production of gold and silver made -Peru a proud and wealthy nation. Everything prospered until the war -with Chili, from 1879 to 1883, ending in the defeat of Peru and the -loss of a portion of her territory, including a large part of her -guano deposit. She was unable to keep her railroads in operation, much -less to extend them, or to pay the interest on her bonds; and thus -bankruptcy followed defeat. At last, after fourteen years of default -and six years of negotiation, a contract was concluded with Peru by -Mr. M. P. Grace, of New York, in January, 1890, on behalf of the -bondholders. The bondholders became concessionaires, and in -consideration of the release of the bonded debt due to them by Peru, -receive valuable concessions, of money, of mines, of railroads, of -lands and of guano. These concessions include among other things a -government subsidy of $400,000 a year, secured from the customs of -Callao; the mines of Cerro de Pasco, which have yielded a yearly -average of $2,000,000 for over one hundred years; the entire railway -system (769 miles in length) of the state; a grant of 5,000,000 acres -for the extension of the Lake Titicaca railroad; a grant of 4,500,000 -acres for the extension of the Central or Oroya railroad to the -navigable waters of the Ucayala, one of the main tributaries of the -Amazon; the exclusive control of the guano deposit until 2,000,000 -tons have been sold, from which they expect to sell at least 80,000 -tons a year, which will net $1,000,000. The concessionaires on their -part agree to liquidate the Peruvian debt, to repair the railroads, -and construct 974 miles in extension of the existing system at an -estimated cost of $16,000,000, and to assume certain other obligations -to a limited amount.</p> - -<p>This, perhaps the most remarkable settlement ever made between a -bankrupt nation and its creditor, is due largely to Mr. Grace, and -cannot fail to develop the resources of Peru and restore her days of prosperity.</p> -<br> - -<center>T<small>RADE</small> R<small>ELATIONS WITH THE</small> -U<small>NITED</small> S<small>TATES</small>.</center> - -<p>It appears from the foregoing statement that all the carrying trade to -and from South America, by water, is by foreign steamers; that only -four of these are American lines; that the railroads are generally -owned and operated by Englishmen; that the bankers and merchants are -Englishmen or Germans; that -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page24"><small><small>[p. 24]</small></small></a></span> -many of the mines, cattle ranches, -coffee plantations and other estates are owned by non-resident -foreigners; and that the largest consumer of South American products -is the United States, although this country sells few of its -manufactures and products to South America.</p> - -<p>The English steamers, in the usual course of trade, load with English -dry-goods consigned to English houses in South America, where they are -sold and the proceeds invested in coffee and other products, which are -sent in the same vessels to the United States; there sold, and the -money invested in our produce for carriage to England. The English -therefore obtain the profits on manufacture, on the freight to South -America, on the sale of the goods in South America, on the freight -from South America to the United States, on the sale of those goods, -and finally on the freight of the American breadstuffs carried to -Europe. For the successful prosecution of any trade between two -countries, it is essential that each shall produce what the other -wants: Thus, we raise breadstuffs which are not grown on the Caribbean -sea nor in the valley of the Amazon, nor in Peru or upper Chili, and -we also manufacture goods required in all parts of South America, -where they have few factories; there, coffee, wool, India rubber, -cacao and other articles are produced, which we require. Here, -therefore, are the factors necessary for a prosperous trade. Such a -trade we formerly enjoyed with South America: In 1852, six hundred -United States vessels entered the harbor of Buenos Ayres, or more than -twice as many as those of all other nations combined; now only two per -cent. of the shipping entering that harbor belongs to us. Our war -came, iron steamers took the place of wooden sailing ships, we levied -a duty on coffee and rubber, South America levied a duty on our -manufactures, other countries subsidized lines of steamers, while we -refused all subsidies; and our trade with South America rapidly fell -off, as freights were carried cheaper in foreign than in American -ships, and the trade of South America passed from the United States to -England, Germany and France.</p> - -<p>It is said that we cannot regain this trade, because we cannot, -without protection maintain our own manufactures, much less compete -with the Europeans in an open market; and therefore that it will be a -waste of money to subsidize our vessels. But the larger the market the -cheaper we can manufacture, and we can -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page25"><small><small>[p. 25]</small></small></a></span> -surely find a large and -new market for our breadstuffs. It is worth while to make the -experiment at least, to give our vessels the same subsidy and -protection that has been given to the European lines, and to our -merchants and bankers, an opportunity to regain the trade with South -America. At first the odds will be greatly against us; but if we show -the same energy and ability in cultivating trade with South America -that our fathers exhibited, and that we have shown in other -directions, we must ultimately succeed.</p> - -<p>It is now proposed to tax the products of South America, unless the -South American states reciprocate and admit our breadstuffs and -manufactures free. If this scheme can be carried out, a large and -prosperous commerce will be established between North America and -South America, and American houses will be started in the large cities -to dispose of our manufactures and ship the products to South America. -By this interchange, our manufacturers and farmers will find a market -for their goods and products, our mercantile navy freight for its -vessels, and our bankers and merchants a profitable business in the -large cities of South America.</p> -<br> - -<center>R<small>AILROADS</small>.</center> - -<p>We have already referred to the several railroads which start from the -little ports on the Pacific coast and run up the valleys toward the -Andes. Three of these, among the most remarkable roads in the world, -ascend to a greater elevation than any others, and to a height which -in Europe or the United States, would be above the snow level. They -were intended to reach the gold and silver mines between the Andes and -Cordilleras.</p> - -<p>The first, called the Oroya or Central railroad, 111 miles in length, -starts from Callao on the Pacific, and crosses the Andes, at an -elevation of nearly 15,000 feet, to the plateau between the Andes and -the Cordilleras. It is expected that this road will be extended to the -navigable waters of the Amazon.</p> - -<p>Three hundred miles southward, the second road runs from Mollendo, -Peru, by Arequipa to Puno on Lake Titicaca, and thence northward on -the plateau 407 miles to San Rosas, on the route to Cuzco. The road -from Mollendo to Arequipa runs through a country so destitute of water -that the only supply for -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page26"><small><small>[p. 26]</small></small></a></span> -the engines and stations is by an iron -pipe 8 inches in diameter, and 50 miles long, running from an -elevation of 7,000 feet to the sea-coast.</p> - -<p>Seven or eight hundred miles south of Mollendo, a line runs from -Valparaiso in Chili to Buenos Ayres, 870 miles. It crosses the Andes -through a tunnel two miles long, at an elevation of 10,568 feet above -the sea; after leaving the mountains it runs over the pampas two -hundred miles, without a curve or a grade over three feet above or -below the plain, and will soon be completed from ocean to ocean.</p> - -<p>From Rio de Janeiro several roads have been constructed over the -mountains west of that city to different parts of Brazil. One of these -runs westwardly toward Bolivia.</p> - -<p>Bolivia has recently granted concessions for the construction of a -road from La Paz to connect on the west with the Peruvian roads at -Lake Titicaca, and on the east with the Brazilian lines on the -Pacific; and thus ultimately a road will run from Mollendo on the -Atlantic ocean by Lake Titicaca and La Paz to Rio de Janeiro.</p> - -<p>There are now from 6000 to 7000 miles of road in operation in the -Argentine Republic, 5000 to 6000 in Brazil, and 3000 to 4000 miles in -the other states, making a total of about 15,000 miles of railroad in operation.</p> - -<p>A proposition is now before the public for the construction of the -Pan-American railroad, from the Caribbean sea southward to the -Argentine Republic to connect with the Peruvian, with the Brazilian, -and ultimately with the Argentine roads.</p> - -<p>The route that seems to be most feasible starts at Cartagena, where -there is a splendid bay and harbor, within three days sail from -Galveston and six days from New York. It follows the valley of the -Magdalena river 800 miles to Dividal, 1700 feet above the sea. Here, -near the head waters of the Magdalena, the route crosses the eastern -Cordilleras at an elevation of about 6,500 feet to the head waters of -the Caqueta, or Yapura, a branch of the Amazon, and thence runs down -that river 375 miles to the mouth of the Engarros, only 550 feet above -tide-water. From the Caqueta river, the route passes through Ecuador -to Iquitos, Peru, crossing fourteen tributaries of the Amazon. From -Iquitos the route ascends the Amazon and the Ucayle, one of its -southern tributaries, 500 miles to Napal, then continues across the -montaņa <span class="pagenum"><a name="page27"><small><small>[p. 27]</small></small></a></span> -and the numerous valleys of the Amazon about 600 miles, -to Santa Cruz in Bolivia, or 2400 miles from Cartagena; while a branch -will run up the Apurimac to Cuzco.</p> - -<p>This road would run for 2000 miles along the foot hills of the -Cordilleras, and in these mountains is probably the richest mining -region in the world; here gold, silver, copper, lead and coal mines -are found. The gold and silver mines do not seem to have been -thoroughly explored, although untold millions of the precious metals -have been extracted from them. These mines are generally in cold and -treeless regions, where coal, labor and food are difficult to obtain; -where freights are high and machinery of all kinds most expensive. -This road would greatly facilitate the opening and working of these -mines, and not only make them profitable but develop a large and -lucrative traffic.</p> - -<p>Much of Bolivia is above the navigable waters of the Amazon, and many -of its provinces are now land-locked and almost isolated from -communication with the outer world. The proposed road would cross many -branches of the Amazon, and thus connect with fifty thousand miles of -navigable waters, at least 9000 of which are above Iquitos; and it is -claimed that the business from 20,000 miles of navigable waters would -find by this route a nearer outlet to Europe and America than by Para.</p> - -<p>There is every variety of climate on the route. The valley of the -Magdalena is sultry; every afternoon the water grows tepid, and the -stones burning hot, in the sun's rays. In crossing the Cordilleras the -cool breezes of the mountains are met. The road then descends into the -valley of the Amazon, through a rich and not unhealthy region, though -it has the damp, hot, climate of a tropical country, and thence passes -through the montaņa district, which is generally high, healthy and fertile.</p> - -<p>This country, under a wise government, is capable of sustaining an -immense population and giving abundant support to such a railroad; but -it is now unexplored, excepting the valleys of the navigable rivers, -and is uninhabited save by wild and savage Indians, though these are -not numerous.</p> - -<p>The route up the Magdalena may be expensive by reason of the climate, -but not otherwise. The road in the mountain district will necessarily -be costly, and also in the sierras, because it must -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page28"><small><small>[p. 28]</small></small></a></span> cross the -numerous branches of the Amazon, and the precipitous mountains between -the valleys, and from the difficulty of obtaining labor and material -for construction. Mr. Orton, who crossed from one branch of the Napo -to another, says:</p> - -<blockquote><small>"We crossed the stream and the intervening ridges, and their name is -legion; sometimes we were climbing up an almost vertical ascent, then -descending into a deep dark ravine to find a furious river, while on -the lowlands the path seemed lost in the dense bamboos, until the -Indians opened a passage with their machetes and we crept under the -low arcade of foliage."</small></blockquote> - -<p>Even if the railroad were built, almost all the produce of the Amazon -and montaņa country could be carried more cheaply by water to Para -than by rail to Cartagena; while goods from England and America would -be carried cheaper by steamer to the Isthmus of Panama, and thence to -all ports on the Pacific ocean, than by steamer to Cartagena and up -the Magdalena across the Andes to the valley of the Amazon, and then a -second time across the Andes to the Pacific ocean. The greater part of -the business to and from the mines would be by the railroad.</p> - -<p>At present, as there could not be sufficient business to pay the -operating expenses of such a road, it must rely on government -subsidies to build and operate it.</p> - -<p>Those who have given the most consideration to the subject say that -the road need not be an expensive one to operate, and in the important -element of time it would have a great advantage over the route via -Para. As a means of promoting the settlement of the country and -developing commerce, which cannot exist without population, the -railroad would seem to be a necessity, for navigation has neither -opened the country nor brought in emigrants and we may fairly assume -that it will not suffice in the future.</p> -<br> - -<center>C<small>ONCLUSION</small>.</center> - -<p>In conclusion I will quote from two writers on tropical America. -Buckle says:</p> - -<blockquote><small>"Amidst the pomp and splendor of nature, no place is left for man; he -is reduced to insignificance by the majesty with which he is -surrounded. The forces that oppose are so formidable that he has never -been able to make head against them.</small></blockquote> - -<blockquote><small>"The energies of nature have hampered his spirit; nowhere else is the -contrast so painful between the grandeur of the external world and -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page29"><small><small>[p. 29]</small></small></a></span> -the littleness of the internal, and the mind, cowed by this -unequal struggle, has been unable to advance.</small></blockquote> - -<blockquote><small>"Here, where physical resources are the most powerful, where -vegetation and animals are most abundant, where the soil is watered by -the noblest rivers and the coast studded by the finest harbors, the -profusion of nature has hindered social progress and opposed that -accumulation of wealth without which progress is impossible."</small></blockquote> - -<p>Mr. Bates, the naturalist, after a residence of many years on the -Amazon, closes his book as follows:</p> - -<blockquote><small>"The superiority of the bleak north to tropical regions is only in its -social aspects, for I hold to the opinion that although humanity can -reach an advanced state of culture only by battling with the -inclemency of nature in high latitudes, it is under the equator alone -that the perfect race of the future will attain to complete fruition -of man's beautiful heritage, the earth."</small></blockquote> - -<p><small> <i>Washington, January, 1891</i>.</small></p> - -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page30"><small><small>[p. 30]</small></small></a></span> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. -III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891, by Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - -***** This file should be named 63012-h.htm or 63012-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/0/1/63012/ - -Produced by Ron Swanson -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891 - -Author: Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -Release Date: August 22, 2020 [EBook #63012] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - - - - -Produced by Ron Swanson - - - - - -VOL. III. PP. 1-30, PL. 1, MARCH 28, 1891 - -THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE - - - - -SOUTH AMERICA - -ANNUAL ADDRESS BY THE PRESIDENT - -GARDINER G. HUBBARD - - - - -WASHINGTON - -PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY - -Price, 25 Cents. - - -{1} - - -VOL. III, PP 1-30, PL 1., MARCH 28, 1891. - -THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE - - - - -SOUTH AMERICA. - -ANNUAL ADDRESS BY THE PRESIDENT, - -GARDINER G. HUBBARD. - -(_Presented to the Society December 19, 1890._) - - -Two years ago I selected for my annual address _Africa, or the Dark -Continent_; last year _Asia, the Land of Mountains and Deserts_; this -year I have chosen _South America, the Land of Rivers and Pampas_. - -[Illustration: VOL. III, 1891, PL. 1. SOUTH AMERICA. From the -International Cylopedia, by permission of Dodd, Mead & Company.] - - * * * * * - -The recent meeting of the Pan-American Congress has called attention -to South America, a part of our continent under republican forms of -government and rich in products which we lack, while it relies mainly -on other foreign countries for goods which we manufacture. North -America and South America should be more closely united, for the one -is the complement of the other. - -The prominent features of South America are its long ranges of -mountains--next to the Himalayas the highest in the world,--its great -valley, and its immense plateau extending from the Straits of Magellan -to the Caribbean sea. - - -THE MOUNTAINS. - -The Andes rise in the extreme south at Cape Horn, run in a -northerly course through Patagonia and southern Chili; thence -continuing in three nearly parallel ranges, the western chain called -the Andes, the others known as the Cordilleras, through Peru, {2} -Bolivia and Ecuador to Colombia. The Cordilleras and the Andes are -connected in several places by knots or cross-chains of mountains. In -Colombia the Andes turn to the northwest, reaching their lowest -elevation at the Panama canal, and continue thence, through Central -America and North America as the Rocky Mountains, to the Arctic ocean. -Near the source of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers in Colombia, the -eastern range is deflected to the east along the northern coast of -South America. The central range disappears between the Magdalena and -Cauca rivers. - -The Andes form the water-shed of the continent. The waters on the -western slope flow into the Pacific ocean. The rivers that rise on the -eastern slope, in northern Peru and Ecuador, force their way through -the Cordilleras and at their foot drain the montana of Bolivia, Peru -and Brazil. In the southern part of Peru and upper Chili there is a -broad sierra or plateau, at an elevation of from twelve to fourteen -thousand feet. The streams that rise in this sierra either empty into -salt or alkaline lakes or sink into the ground. - -Unlike all other long ranges of mountains, the continental or eastern -side of the Cordilleras is nearly as precipitous as that extending to -the Pacific. Craters of extinct volcanoes and volcanoes now in -eruption are found in all parts of the chain. In Ecuador there are -fifty-two volcanoes, and twenty of these, covered with perpetual snow -and presided over by Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, rise out of a group of -mountains encircling the valley of Quito, and are all visible from a -single point. Three are active and five others have been in eruption -at one or more times since the conquest. One of these, Sangai, is the -most active volcano on the globe: it sends forth a constant stream of -fire, water, mud and ashes, and some assert that it has done so -without intermission for 300 years; 267 explosions have been counted -in one hour. This is also the land of earthquakes: in 1868, 50,000 -lives, we are told, were lost in one day; the tremor was felt over -four countries and from the Andes to the Sandwich Islands. The tidal -wave washed a gunboat of the United States on shore at Arica in lower -Peru, 1000 miles to the south, and sixteen hours later the wave was -felt across the Pacific at New Zealand. - -A range of mountains separates Eastern Venezuela and Guiana from the -valley of the Amazon. Other ranges south of the Amazon run -southwestwardly, following the Atlantic coast line from Cape St. Roque -to the Rio de la Plata. - - -{3} RIVER SYSTEMS. - -A great oceanic current flows along the western coast of Africa to the -equator, where it is deflected across the Atlantic ocean and becomes -the equatorial current. On reaching the coast of South America near -Cape St. Roque, it is again deflected north and south. Trade winds -blowing over the equatorial current reach the coast at Brazil -surcharged with vapor; as they follow up the valley of the Amazon the -vapors are partially condensed and frequent showers refresh the land; -but when the clouds at the foot-hills of the Andes meet the colder -winds from the south and strike the snow summits of the Cordilleras, -all the moisture is condensed, and the rain falls in tropical showers -for half the year and waters the largest and richest valley in the -world. - -In this valley, among the Cordilleras, three great rivers--the -Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata--rise. The mountain ranges north and -south of the Amazon divide this great valley into three lesser -valleys, down which the Orinoco, the Amazon and La Plata flow, -watering three-fourths of South America. - - -_The Orinoco_. - -The headwaters of the Orinoco rise in two ranges of mountains; the -Cordilleras in the west, and the mountains of Venezuela many hundred -miles to the east. Four hundred tributaries, abounding in beautiful -falls and cataracts, unite to form this great river. - -The whole valley for 1600 miles is filled with dense and tangled -forests. Noble trees of unrivalled beauty blossom in endless -prodigality. Birds of gorgeous plumage nestle in their lofty recesses. -Tall ferns, vines, creeping plants and parasites form a dense tangle -of undergrowth, swarming with life. Myriads of insects in great -variety, reptiles of strange and singular form, lizards and venemous -serpents find their homes and sustenance in the wild, dense mass of -vegetation. - - -_The Amazon_. - -The valley of the Amazon collects its waters from a region 1800 miles -wide from north to south and 2500 miles long from the Andes to the -Atlantic ocean. Even at the foot of the Andes the Amazon is a mighty -river. The valley rapidly narrows to a width of 600 or 700 miles, and -then more gradually to the ocean, {4} where it is only 150 miles wide. -Its total fall from the foot-hills of the Andes to the Atlantic is -very slight, not over three or four hundred feet, and probably -considerably less. - -The rims of the valley are formed of diorite and sandstone, and are -raised only a little above the flood-plain, which is formed of mud and -silt, the detritus brought down by the Amazon and its tributaries. The -flood-plain is from fifty to one hundred miles wide, gradually -narrowing as it approaches the ocean. Through this valley the Amazon -cuts its way, separating often into channels which sometimes run -parallel to each other for several hundred miles, frequently forming -large islands, or expanding into lakes. Similar flood-plains are found -on all its larger tributaries. - -Up from the ocean into this valley an immense tidal wave rolls, with a -bore, twice a day, forcing back the current of the Amazon 500 miles -and inundating a portion of the flood-plain. - -In the early autumn the equatorial rise commences in the headwaters of -its tributaries, far south of the equator. The rains and melting snow -raise the streams, and these the waters of the Amazon. As the sun -crosses the equator and moves to the north the rain follows its -course, and the branches that have their source in the east and -northeast add their flood to the waters of the southerly branches. The -flood in the Amazon is thus continued for nearly six months, raising -its waters from 30 to 50 feet. The channels are filled, and the -flood-plains are overflowed. The whole valley becomes a net-work of -navigable waters, with islands and channels and lakes innumerable, -forming a great inland sea, which the Brazilians call the -Mediterranean of America. The upland, though only a little above the -flood-plain, is rarely overflowed. - -The plants and animals of the flood-plain were formerly considered as -distinct from those of the upland as are the plants and animals of -Europe from those of America; but later investigations show that there -is but little difference between the species. - -The sea breeze blows up the valley about a thousand miles. Then for -1500 miles the atmosphere is stagnant and sultry; the climate is that -of a permanent vapor bath. The dense foliage forms dark, lofty vaults -which the sunlight never penetrates, and over all hangs a perpetual -mist. The abundance and beauty of vegetation increases, and the trees -which at the mouth of the river blossom only once a year, here bloom -and bear fruit all the year round. - -{5} Many great rivers run into the Amazon from the north and the -south, most of them navigable, for many hundred miles. The Madeira, -its greatest tributary, after running 2000 miles, empties into the -king of rivers, without making any perceptible difference in its width -or depth. - -This mighty current, rushing into the ocean, meets the equatorial -current and for over one hundred miles keeps on nearly a straight -course, when the stronger and mightier oceanic current deflects it to -the north. At from 200 to 300 miles from land, the sea is strongly -tinged, and in April and May has nearly the clay-yellow hue of the -Amazon. And even further north, about 400 miles from its mouth, the -naturalist on the Amazon tells us, "we passed numerous patches of -floating grass mingled with tree trunks and withered foliage; among -these I espied many fruits of the Amazonian palm. And this was the -last I saw of the Amazon." - - -_The Rio de la Plata_. - -The La Plata, the outlet of the waters of central South America, is -formed by the union of the Uruguay and Parana, about 150 miles from -the ocean; a little lower down, at Montevideo, it is 62 miles wide and -widens rapidly to the Atlantic, where it discharges more water than -all the rivers of Europe. The tributaries of the Parana are -fan-shaped. Its most eastern branches rise in the mountains of Brazil, -within seventy miles of the Atlantic ocean; and 1500 miles away, on -the other side of the continent, its most western tributaries rise -only 125 miles from the Pacific. - -Steamers ascend the Parana, Paraguay and Cuyaba, 2100 miles to Cuyaba, -and the river with its branches is navigable for 5000 miles. - - -_The San Francisco_. - -The San Francisco, about 1800 miles long, rises near Rio de Janeiro -and flows north about 1200 miles between parallel ranges of mountains, -then turns east and forces its way through the coast range to the -Atlantic ocean. It runs through the gold and diamond regions of -Brazil, and has a considerable population along its banks. It has many -falls and rapids, and considerable slack-water navigation. - - -{6} GENERAL DESCRIPTION. - -In Asia, the different countries have natural boundaries; the people, -soil and climate of one country are unlike those of others. In Europe -there are few natural boundaries, though different races inhabit the -several states. - -In South America only one dominant race is found, and though natural -boundaries exist, yet they do not serve as boundaries to the different -states, other than Venezuela and Guiana. Venezuela and Guiana are -watered by the Orinoco and by several rivers that flow from the -Amazonian mountains to the ocean. The whole coast is low and fertile, -but hot and unhealthy. The principal product is sugar, raised by -negroes and coolies. The interior is sultry and thickly wooded; it is -inhabited by Indian tribes, the principal of which are the cannibal -Caribs, and by negroes as uncivilized as any of the tribes in Africa. -Guiana is controlled by the English, French, and Dutch. Cayenne, the -prison for French convicts, is the capital of French Guiana. - -Colombia and Ecuador occupy the northwestern part of South America. -They are situated on both sides of the Andes, and have every variety -of climate. The country is well watered; fertile but unhealthy on the -coast, fertile and healthy on the elevated plains, cold and barren on -the mountains. - -In Brazil, besides the Amazon, La Plata and San Francisco, there are -several large rivers with fertile valleys; but occasional droughts, -sometimes lasting for two years, will prevent portions of Brazil from -becoming densely inhabited. - -On the Pacific coast south of Ecuador, the rainfall becomes less and -less. For three thousand miles along the coast of Peru and Chili there -is no natural harbor; a plain from ten to fifty miles in width extends -from the Pacific to the foot-hills of the Andes. The Antarctic current -runs along this coast; the southeasterly winds blow over it on to the -land and cool the air; but as the winds are of low temperature their -scanty vapor is dissipated by the heat radiated from the land, and not -a drop of rain refreshes the thirsty soil. Many mountain torrents run -from the snow-clad summits of the Andes, and the beauty of their -narrow valleys forms a grateful contrast to the dry and barren sands -of the plain. - -In the southern part of Chili and in that part formerly called -Patagonia, rain is abundant and the country is fertile. - -The longest stretch of low and comparatively level land to be {7} -found in the world extends through the center of South America. A boat -starting from the Caribbean sea could sail up the Orinoco over a -thousand miles, then down the Casquiare, which runs from the Orinoco -into the Rio Negro, down that river to the Amazon, up the Amazon to -the Madeira, then up that river and one of its branches through Brazil -and Bolivia, and with a short portage of six and a half miles to one -of the branches of the Paraguay, down the Paraguay and La Plata to the -ocean. - -The level land crosses the La Plata and continues southward through -the Argentine Republic and Patagonia to the Straits of Magellan. -Within this plain lie all the interior of Venezuela and Brazil, a part -of Bolivia, all Paraguay, Uruguay, and the Argentine Republic. The -pampas resemble our prairies, but run from north to south, while the -prairies run from east to west. - -The streams in the plain south of the valley of the La Plata rise in -the Andes and flow southeastward to the Atlantic. - - -THE ABORIGINES. - -The aborigines of America, except the Esquimaux, are unlike the -natives of other countries; the most marked difference is in their -language. They are divided into a number of tribes differing from each -other in some respects, yet with manners, customs and religious -beliefs generally similar. - -In South America there are more than one hundred distinct languages, -and two thousand dialects. About five or six million Indians have as -many dialects as are found among the 800,000,000 inhabitants of Europe -and Asia. Their languages are polysynthetic, being of a higher type -than the agglutinative languages. In the polysynthetic tongue the -substantive, adjective and verb are joined or combined, and oftentimes -a whole sentence will be comprised in a single word. - -The natives in the valleys of the Orinoco and Amazon are forced to -cultivate a little ground on the flood-plains, as the forests are -thick and impenetrable. They live principally on the fruit of the palm -(of which there are five hundred varieties), cocoa and bananas, fish -and turtles. There are no roads or paths through the forests except -the numerous channels of the rivers, called igarapes or furos. The -tribes on the pampas live principally on game and wild cattle. - -Humboldt tells us that the navigator on the Orinoco sees with surprise -at night the palm trees illuminated by large fires. From {8} the -trunks of these trees are suspended the habitations of a tribe of -Indians, who make their fires on mats hung in the air and filled with -moist clay. The same palm tree furnishes also food and wine and -clothing, and thus supplies every want and even the luxuries of life. - -The Indian race as a whole is believed to be superior to both the -negro and the Malay, as neither of those races has ever attained to -the civilization of the Incas of Peru or of the Indians of Mexico and -the Aztecs of Central America. Many of their myths and folk tales are -common, not only to the Indians of one part of the country, but also -to other tribes in distant parts of the continent, and even to the -negroes of Africa, and the Arabs of upper Egypt. All the tribes on the -continent have substantially the same habits of life, the same methods -of warfare, the same general characteristics, and a language built -substantially on the same plan. - -From these observations it might seem that the Indian tribes of South -America were allied to those of Africa or to the Malays, but on -further consideration the similarity seems due rather to a like stage -of civilization than to identity of race. - - -THE INCAS OF PERU. - -In crossing from Arequipa in Peru to La Paz in Bolivia, the road -ascends the Andes, makes a slight descent into the barren, desolate -valley between the Andes and Cordilleras, crosses Lake Titicaca, and -then descends to La Paz. Lake Titicaca, the largest lake of South -America, is on a plateau between twelve and thirteen thousand feet in -height, the most elevated table land on the globe, excepting Thibet. -This lake is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad mountains, the highest of -which is Illampa, 22,300 feet in height. - -On this lake are the remains of the most ancient civilization of South -America. Cyclopean ruins of temples and fortresses stand as perpetual -monuments of a vanished culture; when and by whom they were erected, -we know not; their builders left no other record of their existence. -The wandering Indians told the first Spaniards that they existed -before the sun shone in the heavens. From one of the rocky islands of -Lake Titicaca, about the year 1000 or 1100, the Sun, parent of mankind -and giver of every good gift, taking compassion on the degraded -condition of {9} the Indians, sent two of his children, Manco Capac -and Mama Oello Huaco, to gather the wandering tribes into communities, -to teach them the arts of civilized life and to inculcate the worship -of the Sun. From Lake Titicaca, this brother and sister, husband and -wife, went down the valley to Cuzco, where they were bidden to found -an empire. Manco Capac was thus the first Inca. There were ten or -twelve Incas before the conquest of Peru. Their conquests extended -through the entire valley of the Cordilleras, until over four hundred -tribes, with a population of many millions, became subject to their -dominion. - -The territory of the Incas extended from the southern part of Chili -northward into Colombia, beyond Quito, a distance of two thousand -miles, and west to the Pacific Ocean. On the eastern slope of the -Cordilleras, toward the great plain of the Amazon, the Incas met a -stronger and more savage people, with whom they were in constant -warfare. In the several passes of the Cordilleras they constructed -fortifications to protect their borders and prevent invasion. - -The capital of the territory, Cuzco, was situated in a beautiful -valley ten thousand feet above the sea. Amidst the Alps, such a valley -would be buried in eternal snow, but within the tropics it enjoys a -perpetual spring. Here the Incas loved to dwell, and remains of -immense fortresses, palaces and temples, testify to their power and -culture, and to the number of their subjects. Tens of thousands of -laborers must have been required to construct such edifices. When we -reflect that these people had no beasts of burden except the llama, -which could only carry light loads, and no mechanical means for -transporting the vast blocks of stone used in constructing these -buildings, we are astonished at what they accomplished. The pyramids -of Egypt are not more wonderful. - -Great highways were built, running north, south and west, connecting -different parts of the Empire. One followed the valley between the -Cordilleras and Andes to Quito, another crossed the Andes and followed -the sea-coast north and south to the extreme limits of their country. -All traveling was on foot. Large and comfortable tambos, or inns, were -erected every few miles, and larger ones at the end of a day's -journey. Couriers were stationed at regular intervals, each of whom -had his allotted station, between which and the next it was his duty -to run at a certain pace bearing his message, and on his approach to -the {10} next station he signalled to the next chasquir, as the -couriers were called, to be ready to carry forward the message. In -this way, it is said, about 150 miles a day were made. - -These couriers traveled more quickly than the mail-carriers of Europe, -and the means of communication were then, Squier tells us, far better -than they are to-day. Many of these old tambos are still maintained. -One in which Squier spent the night was 180 feet in length, with rooms -forming three sides of a court. - -The country of the Incas had every variety of climate, and the -products were those of every part of the new world. On the coast, -perpetual summer reigns, with all the variety and beauty of tropical -vegetation. At a higher elevation, the trees are always green, and -while one kind sheds its blossoms and ripens its fruit another is -budding and unfolding its bloom. Meantime, on the top of the mountains -is eternal winter. In some places, as at Potosi, the changes of -temperature are frequent and extremes of heat and cold are experienced -in a single day. The weather in the early morning is frosty; in the -forenoon, mild and balmy; in the afternoon, scorching, and in the -evening, cool and delicious. - -On the Pacific slope of the Andes, reservoirs were constructed, from -which irrigating canals watered the whole plain now lying desolate and -barren. - -The conquered tribes were incorporated into the nation and became the -people of the Incas. If the conquered tribe was strong and warlike, -some of its members were removed to distant parts of the country and -were replaced by the inhabitants of those regions, to whom privileges -and immunities were given as compensation for the change of home. The -conquered tribes quickly realized the benefits of the rule of the -Incas and became faithful and loyal subjects. - -The government of the Incas was a paternal despotism controlling the -most minute affairs of daily life. Knowledge, the Incas taught, "was -not intended for the people, but for those of generous ability, for it -would render persons of low degree vain and arrogant." - -The Incas established a communal system similar to that of Russia. -One-third of the land belonged to the Inca, one-third to the priests -of the Sun, and the remainder to the people, who were required to -cultivate the land of the Inca and of the priests, as well as their -own. The land was divided among the families yearly, according to -their number. Every newly {11} married couple received a stated -portion which was increased as the family increased. - -Their only means of writing was by a cord, called quippus, about two -feet long, composed of threads of different colors twisted together, -from which a quantity of smaller threads hung like a knotted fringe. -The colors denoted sensible objects or sometimes abstract ideas, -though the principal use of the quippus was for arithmetical purposes. - -The civilization of the Incas appears to have been of a higher order -than that of the Mexicans. It is not probable that hieroglyphics were -in use among any of the South American Indians, though it is said that -traces of a pictorial alphabet have been found. The people were -contented and happy, although they were deprived of personal liberty, -although their daily life was supervised by their rulers, and although -they held only communal rights of property. They had neither ambition -nor strong love of country. - -When Pizarro landed in Peru there were two Incas, one at Cuzco and the -other at Quito, and the bitter conflict which was raging between them -made the conquest of both easy. Pizarro had only 180 followers, but -they were Spanish cavaliers, carrying fire-arms; and with this small -force he overturned the Incas and enslaved the people. The descendants -of the Quichuas, or the people of the Incas, still inhabit the land--a -mild, apathetic, servile and dejected race. It is said that after the -conquest the women put on a black mantle, which they have worn ever -since, as perpetual mourning for the last of the Incas. - -There are a few descendants of Spaniards in Peru, but the population -consists chiefly of the descendants of the Quichuas and mixed -Spaniards and Quichuas. The Peruvians of to-day are less civilized -than those who lived 400 years ago; they have less liberty and are -poorer. - - -DISCOVERY OF THE AMAZON. - -Great rivers have usually been discovered and explored by ascending -them from the ocean to their sources; the Congo and the Amazon were -explored downward from their sources to the ocean. - -Three hundred and fifty years ago, Gonzalo Pizarro, then governor of -Upper Peru, heard of a land of silver and gold, spices and precious -stones; a land where spring reigned and all tropical fruits abounded. -He determined to follow the little {12} stream which, rising in the -Andes, near Quito, flowed eastward; to explore the country, and find -the happy land. He set out with 350 Cavaliers, mounted on Spanish -horses and attended by 4000 Indian slaves. - -The first part of the route was easy; the little stream soon became a -river, then broadened into the Napo; but the farther they went, the -slower and more difficult was their progress as they passed from the -open forest and the cool and invigorating breezes of the Andes into -the sultry valley of the Napo. Their way now led through forests more -dense, darker and more impenetrable than those described by Stanley, -for the valley of the Amazon is richer than the valley of the Congo. -Natives armed with poisoned arrows opposed their progress; food became -scarce, treachery was on every side, and their number gradually -diminished by death and by desertion of the slaves. - -The natives told them of a greater river than the Napo which they -would find a few days' voyage farther down. This river, they said, -flowed through a more populous and richer country, where food was -abundant and gold was found in every stream. Pizarro determined to -build a bark and to send Orellano as commander to find and return with -food and succor. For this vessel, the forests furnished the timber; -the shoes of the horses were converted into nails, distilled gum was -used for pitch, and the garments of the soldiers were a substitute for -oakum. In two months, a brigantine was launched, the first European -vessel that ever floated on the waters of the Amazon. The Napo grew -broader and deeper as the little company rapidly floated down, until -it became a mile wide. Three days after they left Pizarro, they saw -before them a river, many times larger than the Napo, which the -Indians called Parana-tinega, King of Waters; but we call it the -Amazon. There was no cultivation, little food could be obtained, and -the Indians were hostile instead of friendly. What was to be done? -Behind them was the wilderness, before them the promised land. The -journey back would be difficult and dangerous; the temptation to -explore the wonderful river was too great to resist. One man alone was -faithful to Pizarro, and he was left on the bank while Orellano sailed -down the river. The wonder of the explorers daily increased as other -rivers larger than the Napo flowed into the Amazon, now on the north, -more frequently on the south. Month after month passed, the river grew -so broad that they could not see from one side to the other. {13} -Great islands were passed, channels running parallel with the main -stream larger than any river they had ever seen. Still on they went, -till after several months they reached the Atlantic Ocean. Then they -sailed north in their little boat, skirting the coast to Trinidad, -where they found a vessel which bore them to Spain. They recounted the -story of the great river; the wonderful country through which they -passed; and the rich mines of which they had heard. They told fabulous -tales of the Amazonians they had encountered, strong and masculine -women, armed with bows and arrows, living by themselves, admitting men -into their country only one month in the year, killing or sending away -the male children and training the girls to become amazons and -warriors. - -Orellano was received by the Queen; his treachery was forgotten and a -new expedition was sent out under his command; but he died before -reaching the river. - -Meantime, Pizarro and his followers slowly and with difficulty made -their way down the Napo, taking as many months to reach the Amazon as -Orellano had taken days. They looked in vain for their companions, but -found only the solitary man who had been left behind, scarcely alive, -and from him learned of Orellano's desertion. Further explorations -being impossible, they turned back, reached Quito two years after -their departure, their horses gone, their arms broken or rusted, the -skins of wild animals their only clothing. "The charnel house seemed -to have given up its dead, as they glided onward like a troop of -spectres." Half of the Indians had perished, and of the three hundred -and fifty cavaliers only eighty were left. - -Such was the end of an expedition which for dangers and hardships, -length of duration, and constancy displayed is probably unmatched in -the annals of American discovery. - - -GUIANA. - -Guiana is the only country of South America not inhabited by the Latin -race. It was acquired for Great Britain by one who acted contrary to -his instructions in attacking a power, Spain, with which his own -country was at peace. - -Gonzalo Pizarro, on his journey down the Napo in 1539, heard wonderful -stories of a golden city far away on the banks of the Orinoco, -surrounded by mountains of gold. Rumors of this golden city were -carried by English navigators to Great Britain, {14} with legends of a -prince of Guiana, whose body, first smeared with turpentine, was then -powdered with gold dust, so that he strode among his people a majestic -golden statue. Adventurers started in search of this El Dorado, some -from Peru, others from Quito and from Trinidad; but the golden city -was never found. They, however, brought back reports of chiefs whose -bodies sparkled with gold dust as they danced, who had golden eagles -dangling from their breasts and great pearls from their ears; they -told of mines of diamonds and gold, and of the natives who longed to -exchange their jewels for jews-harps. - -Sir Walter Raleigh determined to find this country and bring to his -queen its fabulous riches, for he believed that the silver and gold -mines of Mexico and Peru had made Spain the first state in -Christendom--"that purchaseth intelligence and creepeth into counsels -and endangereth and disturbeth all the nations of Europe." - -In 1595, Sir Walter sailed from England and arrived at the Isle of -Trinidad, where he overthrew the Spaniards, then sailed up the -Orinoco, or one of its branches, four hundred miles, until hunger and -sickness compelled him to return. Although he did not reach the golden -city, he could see the mountains far in the distance which he believed -surrounded it, and he found the shining sand on the banks of the -Orinoco. In Guiana he raised the flag of England and compelled the -Indians to swear fealty to his queen. - -Twenty years later, a prisoner in the Tower, he was released in order -to make a second voyage in search of this El Dorado for King James. He -sailed in 1617, accompanied by his eldest son; but disaster and -sickness met him at every step. He reached the Orinoco again, too -feeble to land. So his son and Captain Keymis went instead. Keymis -returned after a month of exploration, bringing Raleigh the news of -the death of his son in an attack on a Spanish town. He brought -reports of the golden city, of the mines of gold, diamonds and -emeralds, but neither gold, diamonds nor emeralds to confirm the truth -of these reports. Raleigh said, "I am undone;" Keymis replied, "I know -then, Sir, what course to take." He went to his cabin and killed -himself. - -Raleigh returned to England, a broken down old man. The Spaniards -demanded his life of James as they had demanded it of Elizabeth after -his first expedition, on the ground that in time of {15} peace Raleigh -had attacked the Spanish forces and invaded their country. Elizabeth -had refused, but James yielded. Raleigh was executed, but Guiana -became an English colony. - -The gold and silver mines of Peru have failed; little gold has been -found in Guiana, but its rich and fertile soil, watered by tropical -rains, has been a source of greater wealth than the gold mines of -Peru. - - -POPULATION OF SOUTH AMERICA. - -As the countries of South America were all settled at about the same -time and by the same race and have passed through a like history, they -can be considered as a whole. - -The United States and Canada, with a rough, uncongenial climate and -sterile soil, were settled by the Anglo-Saxons, the remainder of the -western continent by the Latin race and, excepting Brazil and Guiana, -by Spaniards. In North America the Anglo-Saxon race has dominated, -carrying civilization from the Atlantic to the Pacific, expelling and -exterminating the aborigines. There has been no mingling of the -Anglo-Saxon and Indian races, no backward step, but ever civil, -religious and intellectual progress. The Latin race conquered Central -America and South America, a perfect Eden of natural loveliness, one -hundred years prior to the settlement of the Anglo-Saxon; yet to-day -they constitute but a thin layer over a scarcely populated country. -Their leaders were men of unbounded ambition, rapacious, of great -endurance, but cruel and unscrupulous. They sought adventure, -expecting it would bring them gold and silver. For that end they -plundered, despoiled and enslaved the Indians. Gold and silver flowed -into their hands; luxury, effeminacy, and weakness followed. - -The Spaniards in America have scarcely retained the civilization they -brought from the old world. They have intermarried with the Indians, -and this mixed race is said to inherit the vices of each of their -ancestors without the virtues of either. - -A sparse population, mostly Spanish and foreigners, inhabit a zone ten -to twenty miles in depth along the coast of South America, from the -Bay of Panama to the Caribbean sea. All the cities and settlements, -excepting a few in the Argentine Republic, are near the coast. - -Back of this zone, on the Pacific, is a mixed Spanish-Indian -population, much larger than the Spanish and foreign population; {16} -and on the Atlantic a population which is Spanish-Indian, -Spanish-Negro, and Negro-Indian, occupies a zone from twenty to one -hundred miles wide. Beyond the first zone a few Spanish families and -foreigners are found at the gold and silver mines, on the pampas, at -the cattle ranches, and on a few haciendas in Peru and Chili. In -Brazil the Portuguese and some Englishmen and Germans raise coffee and -sugar, and oversee the diamond and gold fields. On the Amazon there -are a few small settlements to collect the India rubber and cacao of -that valley. - -Save these sparse settlements, the interior of South America is -inhabited by wild tribes of Indians, uncivilized save for the presence -of a few Catholic priests, who have given the Indians the cross and -the image of the Virgin Mary, which they worship, mingling the -Catholic religion with their old idolatries and barbarous rites. The -natives are believed to be more idle and less civilized than when the -Spaniards discovered America. - -The Spaniards are the grandees of the country; too proud to work, they -leave all business to the foreigners and all labor to the Indians, -retaining in connection with the half-breeds all political power. When -the regents appointed by Spain were expelled in the early part of the -present century, republics were established, but they were republics -only in name; the people were neither educated nor fitted for -self-government. Their presidents generally exercised the powers of -dictators and often assumed that title. They have rarely enjoyed a -long rule, for their power and position were sought by others. -Revolution in these countries has passed from the acute to the chronic -stage. - -A recent traveller in Peru, who wished to inspect its railroad system, -was informed that only 26 miles were in running order, the remainder -being under the control of the revolutionists who were then less than -80 miles from the capital. He asked why the rebels did not take Lima, -the capital, and was told, "because there is no unanimity among them; -they are suspicious of each other, and cannot depend upon any one -man." Instead of being anxious to serve their country they are only -interested in robbing her. - -Another traveller in Bolivia, who witnessed some of these revolutions, -says they sometimes occurred three times in as many weeks, and that it -would have been ludicrous had not their results been often violent and -tragic. There has been no settled government, no continued peace, no -permanent policy, in any Spanish {17} country. The hope for the future -is that the English, German, and French population will increase and -become permanently identified with the country; they will then take an -active interest in politics and direct the policy and administration -of the government. - -Commercial and banking business is in the hands of the French, -Germans, and English. The Italians carry on a small trade at corner -groceries and fruit stores; the French keep the hotels and -restaurants; the English and Germans are the shippers, merchants and -bankers. - -Regular lines of English, French, and German steamers run from Europe -to Panama and thence along the western coast of South America, -stopping at ports en route; some return by Panama, others sail around -Cape Horn to Europe by Buenos Ayres and Rio Janeiro. Other lines run -direct from Europe to Brazil, and twenty-four lines connect Europe and -the Argentine Republic; while there are only four lines of American -steamers trading to South America. - - -BRAZIL. - -We have given a general description of South America, but three -countries--Brazil, the Argentine Republic and Peru--require further -notice: Brazil, because it is the largest country, occupying -three-sevenths of South America, and the only considerable state that -was not settled by the Spaniards; the Argentine Republic, because it -is the largest and most populous of the Spanish states and, with Peru, -illustrates the political and financial phases through which the -Spanish republics have passed. - -The valley of the Amazon makes Brazil the most fertile region of the -world. The tropical woods are so thick and the creepers and -undergrowth so luxuriant that animal life is almost entirely confined -to the trees above and the waters below. - -The valley is not unhealthy, and, though under the equator, the -climate is tempered by the trade winds and the evaporation from the -vast Amazonian waters. Beyond the valley is the montana district, -where the land is higher and the climate semi-tropical, where there -are few creepers, little underbrush, and open forests, and where both -animal and vegetable life is less abundant. Southward, beyond the -montana district, are the evergreen pampas, where no trees grow and -where the animal and vegetable life are unlike either that of the -valley of the Amazon or that of the {18} montana. As in Africa, so -here, men who live in the dark forest, die in the open. Mr. Stanley -selected thirty dwarfs from the tropical forests of Africa to take to -England, but as soon as they came into the grass-lands, the clear air -and bright sun, they languished and died before the coast was reached. - -Northeast of the pampas, on the Atlantic coast, south of the Amazon, -is a province bounded on the south by a range of high mountains, where -rain is abundant; at Maranhao, its seaport, there are 280 inches of -rainfall in the year. South of Maranhao there is much less rain; and -instead of two seasons, the wet and the dry, which prevail in the -valley of the Amazon, there are the four seasons of the year, but -without extremes of heat and cold. - -Over the greater part of Brazil grows the coffee tree, the -sheet-anchor of Brazilian prosperity, since it furnishes 60 per cent. -of all the coffee grown in the world. The plant is not indigenous to -Brazil, but was brought there about one hundred years ago from the old -world. - -Brazil, inhabited by the Portuguese, with an imperial government, has -been saved from the anarchy and insolvency of the Spanish republics. -Her railroads have been built with economy and have been generally -successful. It had a population in 1885 of 11,000,000; two-thirds of -whom were Indians and negroes, and many of the negroes were slaves. -Slavery existed longer in Brazil than in any other civilized country; -the lash was commonly used on the plantation, and work continued from -early in the morning until late at night until 1888, when a law was -passed finally emancipating 1,300,000 slaves. It was opposed by the -planters, who said freedmen would not work, but would let the coffee -and sugar plantations fall to ruin. It was probably this act which -caused the overthrow of the empire, for in revenge the planters joined -the insurgents in establishing the Republic. - -The Portuguese and Brazilians are more peaceable and orderly than the -Spaniards or Spanish-Americans; we may therefore reasonably hope that -Brazil will not repeat the history of the Spanish republics, which has -been one of disintegration, for these republics have separated into -two or more States. The greatest difficulty in maintaining its immense -domain will arise from the enormous distances and the time required to -travel between different parts of the country. From Rio de Janeiro to -Matto Grosso is 140 days' journey by land, and by water the distance -is 3000 miles. Communication is maintained by steamer {19} through the -Argentine Republic up the Rio de la Plata and its branches. Although -the country has many long and navigable rivers, yet the means of -intercommunication are very poor; for the rivers are little used, and -the forests, creepers, and undergrowth are so dense that the country -back of the river-banks is impenetrable, and even if roads should be -opened the soil is so luxuriant that they would be quickly overgrown -and soon become impassable. - -Lines of steamers have been subsidized by the Brazilian government and -run up the Amazon 2000 miles to Tabatinga, at the boundary line of -Peru; there connecting with lines subsidized by the Peruvian -government, which run 1500 miles farther up the river. These vessels -carry supplies to the settlers and bring back India rubber, -Brazil-nuts, cacao, quinine, and the beautiful woods of the forest. - -Yet steamers are rarely seen on the Amazon; they have few passengers, -and have not opened the country; we are told that the Mississippi -carries more vessels in a month, and the Yang-tse-kiang in a day, than -the Amazon in a year. - - -THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. - -The history of South American republics is illustrated in the -Argentine republic. - -It is a vast pampas or prairie, extending from Brazil to the Andes, -and from Bolivia with a southeasterly trend 2000 miles to southeastern -Terra del Fuego. - -The climate of the northern portion is tropical; of the central part, -semi-tropical; of the extreme south, temperate or cold. The country is -generally well watered excepting in the northwestern part, where the -land is dry and alkaline, like the arid regions of North America. The -soil is a rich, deep loam, from four to six feet in depth, excepting -in Patagonia and the western pampas, where there is a coarse gravel -and detritus from the Andes. Instead of the dense tropical forest of -the Amazon valley, the pampas are covered by a coarse grass, three or -four feet high, growing in large tussocks and all the year round of a -dark green. The strong grass crowds out all trees and almost all -plants, so that scarcely a flower relieves the uniform, everlasting -verdure. - -Instead of the arboreal animals of the Amazon there is the rhea or -American ostrich, "ship of the wilderness," adapted to the {20} -pampas, but unable to live in the forests. The gauchos have hunted it -for the last three centuries, but it is now passing away and will soon -be lost to the pampas, as the buffalo has been to the North American -prairie. - -The pampas are far better adapted to the raising of cattle than our -prairies, for the grass is always green and the winters are milder. -Cattle, horses, and sheep imported by the Spaniards and turned on to -the pampas rapidly increased, and now immense herds feed on the -plains. - -The Indians who inhabit the pampas, instead of being confined to one -locality and journeying only by canoe, like the Indians on the Amazon, -wander over the length and breadth of the pampas, hunting the ostrich -and cattle. The cattle are tended by gauchos, as the cow-boys are -called, half-breeds as wild as the herds they tend. Constant warfare -exists between the Indians and the gauchos, unless they unite to -attack the settlers. After one of the Indian raids the government dug -an immense ditch from a river to the Andes and drove the Indians to -the farther side, and since then there have been fewer raids--and -fewer Indians. - -The land was held in large blocks of many thousand acres, worked by -overseers and gauchos. The animals were killed by hundreds of -thousands for their skins. This state of things is, however, gradually -passing away, for during the last twenty years emigrants from the old -world have settled in the country as farmers and planters. - -The fourteen provinces which form the Argentine Republic have never -been welded into one nation, and have seldom had a moment's peace. The -gauchos have been a continual scourge, and the gaucho generals its -rulers and harriers combined. Unfortunately, here, as in other Spanish -states, one dictator has succeeded another. Thirty presidents, or -dictators, have reigned within fifty years. At one time five provinces -had each a separate dictator. The neighboring republic of Uruguay, -formerly a part of the Argentine Confederation, had 26 revolutions in -the twenty-three years from 1864 to 1887. - -For some time Buenos Ayres and its dictator ruled the republic; then -the country provinces rebelled, and civil war ensued; one province was -arrayed against another, and all against Buenos Ayres. The provinces -prevailed and the gaucho general, Rosas, occupied Buenos Ayres. -Scarcely was this civil war ended when a war arose with the republics -of Uruguay and Paraguay. - -{21} Money was required to pay the army and the cost of civil and -foreign wars. Every dictator had his friends for whom provision must -be made. Large debts were created; banks were chartered; $200,000,000 -of paper money were issued. There were several different circulating -mediums; each province strove to outdo the others in the issue of a -currency which quickly depreciated. Companies for different purposes -were organized, and many were subsidized, directly or indirectly. We -are told that in one case $1,500,000 was paid for a concession, and -that "Turkish officials, who have hitherto been the champion artists -in backsheesh, leave off where Argentine blackmailers begin; the price -of a drainage scheme at Buenos Ayres would buy a whole cabinet of -pashas at Galata." - -Railroads were built running from Buenos Ayres in different -directions, as each province demanded a railroad, with little regard -to its population or business. - -A road was commenced to cross the Andes and open communication between -the Atlantic and Pacific over mountains which had never been crossed -by a carriage of any kind. - -The country was not settled so rapidly as the rulers desired. -Inducements were therefore offered to immigrants. The passage money -from Europe and the expenses of the immigrant to his new home have -been paid and land for settlement sold at low rates. It is estimated -that over 1,000,000 foreigners have settled in the country during the -last twelve years, and the proportionate increase of population in the -same period has been twice as great as that of the United States. -Grazing lands have been sold at nominal prices to immigrants, or -leased for terms of years in lots of 6,000 acres at a rental of $100 a -year. Bonds were issued not only by the government but by the -provinces, by the municipalities and by the railroads, and all were -readily taken in England and Germany. To enable the emigrants to pay -for and to cultivate their land, the owner of real estate on -depositing his title deeds with the hypothecary banks and having a -valuation of his real estate, received cedulas, or bonds of the bank, -for one-half its appraised value; these cedulas for large amounts were -issued and sold in Europe; and thus, as ever, more money was required, -more bonds were issued. In 1889, a year of peace, the public debt was -increased 120 per cent., and it is now said to be over one thousand -four hundred millions of dollars, and the principal and interest of -two-thirds of this amount is payable in gold at a premium of 200 per -cent. - -{22} In 1890 there was no money to meet the interest and general -prostration ensued. - -It is difficult to ascertain the debt of the republic; but if the -accounts given in the English publications are correct the debt is -greater in proportion to its population and wealth than that of any -other country in the world. The only hope of the Argentine Republic is -to wipe out the debt by insolvency and bankruptcy. - - -PERU. - -A strip of land with 1200 miles of sea coast, without a natural -harbor, and 200 to 300 miles wide, consisting of a plain, mountains, a -plateau, and still another range of mountains--this is Peru. - -In the west, where the rain never falls, are numerous small rivers, -to-day mountain torrents, to-morrow dry, rocky beds. - -Between the lofty ranges of snow mountains is the highest plateau in -the world, after Thibet. The southern part of this plateau is dry and -desolate, the northern portion is well watered, with beautiful streams -running now through deep canons and then through rich, fertile valleys -steadily descending toward the northeast; the valleys growing ever -broader, warmer and more delightful, until the montana is reached, -only a few hundred feet above the Atlantic, where the streams have -become rivers, navigable to the ocean. - -The western slope of the mountains is dry and barren, so that -breadstuffs and provisions are imported from Ecuador on the north, or -from lower Chili, far to the south. Yet no other country has -contributed so much to the world's fertility; for here are the great -deposits of guano and nitrates, more valuable than mines of gold and -silver. These deposits yielded for over thirty years a net annual -revenue of $20,000,000. - -The eastern slope, rich and fertile, producing every tree and flower, -all fruits and vegetables grown in any part of the world; in the -mountains, mines of gold and silver, platinum and cinnabar, copper and -tin, lead and iron, coal and petroleum, nitrates and asphalt: a -bankrupt nation in the midst of untold wealth--such is Peru. - -To bring the minerals down to the ocean, tens of millions of dollars -were expended on thirteen roads; but though none of them were ever -finished, they reached a few of the poorer mines. Seven of these roads -were built by the government, the others by private parties. - -{23} The sales of guano and the production of gold and silver made -Peru a proud and wealthy nation. Everything prospered until the war -with Chili, from 1879 to 1883, ending in the defeat of Peru and the -loss of a portion of her territory, including a large part of her -guano deposit. She was unable to keep her railroads in operation, much -less to extend them, or to pay the interest on her bonds; and thus -bankruptcy followed defeat. At last, after fourteen years of default -and six years of negotiation, a contract was concluded with Peru by -Mr. M. P. Grace, of New York, in January, 1890, on behalf of the -bondholders. The bondholders became concessionaires, and in -consideration of the release of the bonded debt due to them by Peru, -receive valuable concessions, of money, of mines, of railroads, of -lands and of guano. These concessions include among other things a -government subsidy of $400,000 a year, secured from the customs of -Callao; the mines of Cerro de Pasco, which have yielded a yearly -average of $2,000,000 for over one hundred years; the entire railway -system (769 miles in length) of the state; a grant of 5,000,000 acres -for the extension of the Lake Titicaca railroad; a grant of 4,500,000 -acres for the extension of the Central or Oroya railroad to the -navigable waters of the Ucayala, one of the main tributaries of the -Amazon; the exclusive control of the guano deposit until 2,000,000 -tons have been sold, from which they expect to sell at least 80,000 -tons a year, which will net $1,000,000. The concessionaires on their -part agree to liquidate the Peruvian debt, to repair the railroads, -and construct 974 miles in extension of the existing system at an -estimated cost of $16,000,000, and to assume certain other obligations -to a limited amount. - -This, perhaps the most remarkable settlement ever made between a -bankrupt nation and its creditor, is due largely to Mr. Grace, and -cannot fail to develop the resources of Peru and restore her days of -prosperity. - - -TRADE RELATIONS WITH THE UNITED STATES. - -It appears from the foregoing statement that all the carrying trade to -and from South America, by water, is by foreign steamers; that only -four of these are American lines; that the railroads are generally -owned and operated by Englishmen; that the bankers and merchants are -Englishmen or Germans; that {24} many of the mines, cattle ranches, -coffee plantations and other estates are owned by non-resident -foreigners; and that the largest consumer of South American products -is the United States, although this country sells few of its -manufactures and products to South America. - -The English steamers, in the usual course of trade, load with English -dry-goods consigned to English houses in South America, where they are -sold and the proceeds invested in coffee and other products, which are -sent in the same vessels to the United States; there sold, and the -money invested in our produce for carriage to England. The English -therefore obtain the profits on manufacture, on the freight to South -America, on the sale of the goods in South America, on the freight -from South America to the United States, on the sale of those goods, -and finally on the freight of the American breadstuffs carried to -Europe. For the successful prosecution of any trade between two -countries, it is essential that each shall produce what the other -wants: Thus, we raise breadstuffs which are not grown on the Caribbean -sea nor in the valley of the Amazon, nor in Peru or upper Chili, and -we also manufacture goods required in all parts of South America, -where they have few factories; there, coffee, wool, India rubber, -cacao and other articles are produced, which we require. Here, -therefore, are the factors necessary for a prosperous trade. Such a -trade we formerly enjoyed with South America: In 1852, six hundred -United States vessels entered the harbor of Buenos Ayres, or more than -twice as many as those of all other nations combined; now only two per -cent. of the shipping entering that harbor belongs to us. Our war -came, iron steamers took the place of wooden sailing ships, we levied -a duty on coffee and rubber, South America levied a duty on our -manufactures, other countries subsidized lines of steamers, while we -refused all subsidies; and our trade with South America rapidly fell -off, as freights were carried cheaper in foreign than in American -ships, and the trade of South America passed from the United States to -England, Germany and France. - -It is said that we cannot regain this trade, because we cannot, -without protection maintain our own manufactures, much less compete -with the Europeans in an open market; and therefore that it will be a -waste of money to subsidize our vessels. But the larger the market the -cheaper we can manufacture, and we can {25} surely find a large and -new market for our breadstuffs. It is worth while to make the -experiment at least, to give our vessels the same subsidy and -protection that has been given to the European lines, and to our -merchants and bankers, an opportunity to regain the trade with South -America. At first the odds will be greatly against us; but if we show -the same energy and ability in cultivating trade with South America -that our fathers exhibited, and that we have shown in other -directions, we must ultimately succeed. - -It is now proposed to tax the products of South America, unless the -South American states reciprocate and admit our breadstuffs and -manufactures free. If this scheme can be carried out, a large and -prosperous commerce will be established between North America and -South America, and American houses will be started in the large cities -to dispose of our manufactures and ship the products to South America. -By this interchange, our manufacturers and farmers will find a market -for their goods and products, our mercantile navy freight for its -vessels, and our bankers and merchants a profitable business in the -large cities of South America. - - -RAILROADS. - -We have already referred to the several railroads which start from the -little ports on the Pacific coast and run up the valleys toward the -Andes. Three of these, among the most remarkable roads in the world, -ascend to a greater elevation than any others, and to a height which -in Europe or the United States, would be above the snow level. They -were intended to reach the gold and silver mines between the Andes and -Cordilleras. - -The first, called the Oroya or Central railroad, 111 miles in length, -starts from Callao on the Pacific, and crosses the Andes, at an -elevation of nearly 15,000 feet, to the plateau between the Andes and -the Cordilleras. It is expected that this road will be extended to the -navigable waters of the Amazon. - -Three hundred miles southward, the second road runs from Mollendo, -Peru, by Arequipa to Puno on Lake Titicaca, and thence northward on -the plateau 407 miles to San Rosas, on the route to Cuzco. The road -from Mollendo to Arequipa runs through a country so destitute of water -that the only supply for {26} the engines and stations is by an iron -pipe 8 inches in diameter, and 50 miles long, running from an -elevation of 7,000 feet to the sea-coast. - -Seven or eight hundred miles south of Mollendo, a line runs from -Valparaiso in Chili to Buenos Ayres, 870 miles. It crosses the Andes -through a tunnel two miles long, at an elevation of 10,568 feet above -the sea; after leaving the mountains it runs over the pampas two -hundred miles, without a curve or a grade over three feet above or -below the plain, and will soon be completed from ocean to ocean. - -From Rio de Janeiro several roads have been constructed over the -mountains west of that city to different parts of Brazil. One of these -runs westwardly toward Bolivia. - -Bolivia has recently granted concessions for the construction of a -road from La Paz to connect on the west with the Peruvian roads at -Lake Titicaca, and on the east with the Brazilian lines on the -Pacific; and thus ultimately a road will run from Mollendo on the -Atlantic ocean by Lake Titicaca and La Paz to Rio de Janeiro. - -There are now from 6000 to 7000 miles of road in operation in the -Argentine Republic, 5000 to 6000 in Brazil, and 3000 to 4000 miles in -the other states, making a total of about 15,000 miles of railroad in -operation. - -A proposition is now before the public for the construction of the -Pan-American railroad, from the Caribbean sea southward to the -Argentine Republic to connect with the Peruvian, with the Brazilian, -and ultimately with the Argentine roads. - -The route that seems to be most feasible starts at Cartagena, where -there is a splendid bay and harbor, within three days sail from -Galveston and six days from New York. It follows the valley of the -Magdalena river 800 miles to Dividal, 1700 feet above the sea. Here, -near the head waters of the Magdalena, the route crosses the eastern -Cordilleras at an elevation of about 6,500 feet to the head waters of -the Caqueta, or Yapura, a branch of the Amazon, and thence runs down -that river 375 miles to the mouth of the Engarros, only 550 feet above -tide-water. From the Caqueta river, the route passes through Ecuador -to Iquitos, Peru, crossing fourteen tributaries of the Amazon. From -Iquitos the route ascends the Amazon and the Ucayle, one of its -southern tributaries, 500 miles to Napal, then continues across the -montana {27} and the numerous valleys of the Amazon about 600 miles, -to Santa Cruz in Bolivia, or 2400 miles from Cartagena; while a branch -will run up the Apurimac to Cuzco. - -This road would run for 2000 miles along the foot hills of the -Cordilleras, and in these mountains is probably the richest mining -region in the world; here gold, silver, copper, lead and coal mines -are found. The gold and silver mines do not seem to have been -thoroughly explored, although untold millions of the precious metals -have been extracted from them. These mines are generally in cold and -treeless regions, where coal, labor and food are difficult to obtain; -where freights are high and machinery of all kinds most expensive. -This road would greatly facilitate the opening and working of these -mines, and not only make them profitable but develop a large and -lucrative traffic. - -Much of Bolivia is above the navigable waters of the Amazon, and many -of its provinces are now land-locked and almost isolated from -communication with the outer world. The proposed road would cross many -branches of the Amazon, and thus connect with fifty thousand miles of -navigable waters, at least 9000 of which are above Iquitos; and it is -claimed that the business from 20,000 miles of navigable waters would -find by this route a nearer outlet to Europe and America than by Para. - -There is every variety of climate on the route. The valley of the -Magdalena is sultry; every afternoon the water grows tepid, and the -stones burning hot, in the sun's rays. In crossing the Cordilleras the -cool breezes of the mountains are met. The road then descends into the -valley of the Amazon, through a rich and not unhealthy region, though -it has the damp, hot, climate of a tropical country, and thence passes -through the montana district, which is generally high, healthy and -fertile. - -This country, under a wise government, is capable of sustaining an -immense population and giving abundant support to such a railroad; but -it is now unexplored, excepting the valleys of the navigable rivers, -and is uninhabited save by wild and savage Indians, though these are -not numerous. - -The route up the Magdalena may be expensive by reason of the climate, -but not otherwise. The road in the mountain district will necessarily -be costly, and also in the sierras, because it must {28} cross the -numerous branches of the Amazon, and the precipitous mountains between -the valleys, and from the difficulty of obtaining labor and material -for construction. Mr. Orton, who crossed from one branch of the Napo -to another, says: - -"We crossed the stream and the intervening ridges, and their name is -legion; sometimes we were climbing up an almost vertical ascent, then -descending into a deep dark ravine to find a furious river, while on -the lowlands the path seemed lost in the dense bamboos, until the -Indians opened a passage with their machetes and we crept under the -low arcade of foliage." - -Even if the railroad were built, almost all the produce of the Amazon -and montana country could be carried more cheaply by water to Para -than by rail to Cartagena; while goods from England and America would -be carried cheaper by steamer to the Isthmus of Panama, and thence to -all ports on the Pacific ocean, than by steamer to Cartagena and up -the Magdalena across the Andes to the valley of the Amazon, and then a -second time across the Andes to the Pacific ocean. The greater part of -the business to and from the mines would be by the railroad. - -At present, as there could not be sufficient business to pay the -operating expenses of such a road, it must rely on government -subsidies to build and operate it. - -Those who have given the most consideration to the subject say that -the road need not be an expensive one to operate, and in the important -element of time it would have a great advantage over the route via -Para. As a means of promoting the settlement of the country and -developing commerce, which cannot exist without population, the -railroad would seem to be a necessity, for navigation has neither -opened the country nor brought in emigrants and we may fairly assume -that it will not suffice in the future. - - -CONCLUSION. - -In conclusion I will quote from two writers on tropical America. -Buckle says: - -"Amidst the pomp and splendor of nature, no place is left for man; he -is reduced to insignificance by the majesty with which he is -surrounded. The forces that oppose are so formidable that he has never -been able to make head against them. - -"The energies of nature have hampered his spirit; nowhere else is the -contrast so painful between the grandeur of the external world and -{29} the littleness of the internal, and the mind, cowed by this -unequal struggle, has been unable to advance. - -"Here, where physical resources are the most powerful, where -vegetation and animals are most abundant, where the soil is watered by -the noblest rivers and the coast studded by the finest harbors, the -profusion of nature has hindered social progress and opposed that -accumulation of wealth without which progress is impossible." - -Mr. Bates, the naturalist, after a residence of many years on the -Amazon, closes his book as follows: - -"The superiority of the bleak north to tropical regions is only in its -social aspects, for I hold to the opinion that although humanity can -reach an advanced state of culture only by battling with the -inclemency of nature in high latitudes, it is under the equator alone -that the perfect race of the future will attain to complete fruition -of man's beautiful heritage, the earth." - -_Washington, January, 1891_. - -{30} - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The National Geographic Magazine, Vol. -III., PP. 1-30, PL.1, March 28, 1891, by Gardiner Greene Hubbard - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, MARCH 28, 1891 *** - -***** This file should be named 63012.txt or 63012.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/6/3/0/1/63012/ - -Produced by Ron Swanson -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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