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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #63013 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63013)
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of War Gardens, by Montague Free
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: War Gardens
-       A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
-
-Author: Montague Free
-
-Release Date: August 23, 2020 [EBook #63013]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAR GARDENS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Mardi Desjardins & the online Distributed
-Proofreaders Canada team at https://www.pgdpcanada.net,
-from page images generously made available by the University
-of Wisconsin Digital Collection.
-
-
-
-
-
-                              WAR GARDENS
-
-
-                             [Illustration]
-
-
-
-
-                              WAR GARDENS
-
-                          _A Pocket Guide for_
-                        _Home Vegetable Growers_
-
-
-                                   BY
-                             MONTAGUE FREE
-                            _Head Gardener_
-                       _Brooklyn Botanic Garden_
-
-                             [Illustration]
-
-                      HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS
-                          NEW YORK AND LONDON
-
-
-
-
-                              War Gardens
-
-                 *        *        *        *        *
-
-                 Copyright, 1918, by Harper & Brothers
-                Printed in the United States of America
-                          Published May, 1918
-
-
-
-
-                                CONTENTS
-
-
-                                Chapter                  Page
-                Preface                                   vii
-             I. The Value of Back-yard and Vacant-lot       1
-                  Gardening
-            II. How to Make a Start—Community Gardens       5
-           III. Tools                                      10
-            IV. The Site—The Soil and Its Preparation      15
-             V. Fertilizers                                26
-            VI. The Kinds of Vegetables to Grow            32
-           VII. Planning the Garden                        36
-          VIII. Seeds, Seed-sowing, and Transplanting      40
-            IX. Hoeing and Thinning                        47
-             X. Staking and Tying                          51
-            XI. Insect Enemies                             53
-           XII. Plant Diseases                             64
-          XIII. The Culture of Vegetables in Detail        69
-           XIV. Harvesting and Storing                    100
-                Appendix                                  109
-
-
-
-
-                                PREFACE
-
-
-The purpose of this book is to state simply and clearly the ways and
-means necessary to obtain the largest returns from small plots of land.
-
-The conditions are anything but ideal in the case of many plots that
-will be used as “war gardens.” To tell how to overcome these adverse
-conditions, either by adapting the crop to soil and situation, or by
-modifying the soil to suit the crop, is one of the primary objects of
-this book.
-
-In the writer’s varied experience with back-yard and vacant-lot gardens,
-questions relating to soils and fertilizers, insects and diseases, when
-and what to plant, etc., are continually cropping up. Answers to these
-questions are given here without theorizing or going into needless
-details.
-
-This is essentially a practical book, designed to help those who desire
-to raise their own vegetables in a limited space.
-
-                                                                 M. F.
-
-
-
-
-                              WAR GARDENS
-
-
-
-
-                                   I
-            THE VALUE OF BACK-YARD AND VACANT-LOT GARDENING
-
-
-The National War Garden Commission has estimated that “the people of
-this country in 1917 produced a crop valued at three hundred and fifty
-million dollars in gardens cultivated in back yards, on vacant lots, and
-on other land previously untilled.” This may seem a small amount when
-compared with the value of the crops raised by the farmers and market
-gardeners, but it is not to be despised, and it shows that something can
-be done to increase the food supply by home gardening.
-
-The raising of vegetables at home not only increases food production,
-but also stimulates the consumption of vegetables, thus releasing
-staples, such as wheat and meat, for the use of our soldiers and the
-Allies. This result is attained partly because fresh vegetables are more
-appetizing than shop-worn products and partly because of the attitude of
-the raiser, who says, “We have the stuff and may as well eat it.”
-
-The reduction in the cost of living is also a factor that must be
-considered. When vegetables are bought their purchase price is quite a
-considerable item in the household budget. Of course if labor is figured
-in the cost of raising vegetables at home the financial returns are not
-likely to be large unless you take into consideration the fact that the
-necessity of paying dues for gymnasium, tennis, or golf is entirely
-eliminated. Plenty of fresh air _and_ exercise can be obtained in
-gardening.
-
-Home gardening, too, should help the transportation problem to a certain
-extent. Most of the vegetables consumed in the large cities are
-transported a considerable distance, and if those people who eat these
-much-traveled vegetables raise their own, the transportation system will
-be relieved to that amount.
-
-The raising and caring for plants is certain to broaden one’s interest.
-Very few people who cultivate a vegetable-garden, or any other kind of
-garden, for that matter, are likely to be satisfied until they know
-something of the physiology of plants, how and why they grow, and the
-principles underlying successful plant culture. The insects, both
-beneficial and otherwise, that one becomes acquainted with in the garden
-also add their quota of interest. The life histories of many of them are
-strange and marvelous, and it is worth while, both from the point of
-view of the welfare of the crops and from the educational standpoint, to
-learn something of their habits.
-
-But it is probably in the larger aspects of the situation that the
-home-garden movement will ultimately be of greatest value to the nation.
-America is not a gardening nation judged from European standards, but
-this agitation for the production of food by every one who has, or can
-obtain, a plot of ground is going to make us one. Those people who have
-once cultivated the ground and raised plants will have had their
-interest stimulated, and when the food shortage is over their activities
-will find an outlet in the production of flowers, which cannot but
-result in more beautiful cities and happier citizens.
-
-A healthier population will result from the exercise in the open air and
-we shall become a less nervous and restless people through our
-association with the vital soil and living, growing plants.
-
-
-
-
-                                   II
-                 HOW TO MAKE A START—COMMUNITY GARDENS
-
-
-In casting about for ways and means of starting a food-garden, by all
-means investigate the advisability of joining up with, or inaugurating,
-a community garden. There are tremendous possibilities in connection
-with co-operative efforts in developing vacant lots and making them
-productive, not in the sense of the real-estate man, but as
-food-producing plots, designed to reduce the cost of living, and,
-incidentally, in many cases, to clean up and make presentable what was
-formerly a neighborhood eyesore.
-
-There are many advantages to be gained by a neighborhood group combining
-together for gardening operations. Usually it is not difficult in most
-cities to find large plots of vacant land with owners who are only too
-glad to have them cultivated. By co-operative effort it is possible to
-hire a team and plow and have such plots plowed at a trifling expense,
-whereas by individual effort it is seldom possible to obtain sufficient
-land to warrant the expense of hiring a team for plowing, even though
-the plot were large enough for the team to turn around on. A community
-garden organization can buy garden tools, such as wheelbarrows,
-wheel-hoes, a sprayer, and other comparatively costly tools, which
-greatly facilitate the work of caring for the plot, but which it would
-be impossible or unwise for an individual to buy if he wished to come
-anywhere near making a profit on his garden. Seeds and fertilizers can
-be bought to much greater advantage, and more cheaply when obtained in
-bulk, with the added advantage that of such seeds as tomato, egg-plant,
-peppers and celery, one packet is usually enough for the whole
-organization, whereas by individual effort it would be necessary for
-each gardener to buy his own packet of seed, resulting in considerable
-waste. Waste is not to be condoned at any time, especially now when
-seeds of some vegetables are scarce.
-
-I have in mind a community organization a description of which will
-serve to illustrate what can be done by organized effort of this kind.
-
-A piece of land about three acres in extent was available for
-cultivation in this case. It was fairly good land, but had served to
-some extent as a dumping-ground for cellar excavations, and had a
-considerable amount of rubbish of one kind and another deposited upon
-it. The principal of an adjacent school decided that this land ought not
-to remain idle, so he obtained permission from the owner to use it, and
-then, with some other energetic people of the community, got together
-and started to do things. The ground was first plowed and harrowed free
-of charge by the city park department and the largest of the stones
-removed. It was then decided that the plot should be fenced, in order to
-keep out cats, dogs, small boys, and other undesirables, and to insure
-that those who raised the crops should receive the benefit. Material,
-consisting of two-by-four-inch posts eight feet long, chicken netting
-five feet wide, and a strand of barbed wire to go around the top, was
-bought for this purpose at a cost of about $112. The fence was erected
-by volunteers in their spare time, and six padlocked gates provided, to
-which each plot-holder had a key. Water-pipe was laid all over the area
-so that the crops could be cared for in time of drought. The expense
-incurred for the purchase of pipe and installation, together with that
-of seeds, fertilizers, and the larger garden implements, was borne by
-the association. The area was divided into fifty plots each 100 × 23½
-feet. Each plot-holder was asked to keep an account of his expenses, and
-also of the yields obtained. The results are interesting. The average
-cost of each plot, including expenses incurred for fencing, seeds,
-fertilizer, etc., was a little over $11; the value of the crops obtained
-was around $34; giving an average profit of between $22 and $23.
-
-When one considers the smallness of these plots, it must be admitted
-that the results were worth while, and the whole adventure is very
-encouraging to those who contemplate a similar enterprise. Of course no
-allowance was made for the cost of labor involved in preparing and
-caring for these plots; but to offset this one should remember that the
-soil was not especially good, the workers not experienced, and then one
-must take into account the large initial expense of fencing the land,
-buying tools, etc. This year the expenses will be considerably less and
-the yields ought to be greatly increased because of the improvement of
-the soil through the cultivation of the preceding year.
-
-Other advantages of community gardens that may be mentioned are these:
-there is not so much danger of a plot-holder becoming tired of gardening
-and quitting before he has harvested his crop; community gardening
-fosters a spirit of healthy competition, and each gardener tries to have
-his plot looking a little neater, and to produce larger and better
-crops, than his neighbor. Furthermore, in a body of men and women
-associated in this way there is almost always some one who has had a
-garden before and to whom the novices may turn for advice.
-
-While community gardening is undoubtedly the most economical, and, in
-many ways, the most pleasurable method for the home gardener to produce
-his crops, one should not be deterred from the attempt to grow
-vegetables merely because there is no opportunity to link up with an
-organization. The man with a back yard can grow some vegetables,
-provided that his soil is fairly good and his plot is open to the
-sunshine. Even the apartment-dweller need not despair, because in most
-cities it is possible to obtain the use of a plot of vacant ground,
-through either the municipality or some organization formed for the
-purpose of dealing with such situations.
-
-
-
-
-                                  III
-                                 TOOLS
-
-
-It is unnecessary to spend much money on tools for use in a small
-garden. The writer did very well in his home garden with nothing but an
-ordinary round-pointed shovel for digging purposes, a rake to pulverize
-the soil and make drills for seed-sowing, a scuffle-hoe for cultivating,
-and a garden line made from two sticks and a piece of twine. Of course
-there are many tools on the market that greatly facilitate cultivation
-and make gardening work easier, but their purchase is inadvisable unless
-the size of the garden and the permanency of its cultivation warrant it.
-
-Nothing will be said as to the various types of horse-drawn or
-motor-driven implements. This book is written for those who have to do
-their gardening with hand tools or those who are limited to the hiring
-of just what horse-drawn tools happen to be available.
-
-For the preparation of the soil, probably the best implement is the
-spading-fork. It is easier to work with than a spade and in most cases
-is equally efficient. The spading-fork can be used for digging and, at a
-pinch, can be made to serve the purpose of fining the surface soil for
-seed-sowing. A spade is a handy tool to have, however, especially when
-any work is to be done in the way of making beds or forming walks.
-
-For seed-sowing the absolute essentials are very few. A yard-stick or
-foot-rule for measuring the distance between the rows is useful. An even
-better way of accomplishing this is to divide a hoe or rake handle,
-whichever is used in seed-sowing, into feet and quarter-feet, preferably
-cutting in the marks with a knife. If one is limited to buying just one
-tool for making the drills the rake should be chosen, as it can also be
-used for fining the soil and for cultivating between the rows. A garden
-line can easily be improvised from two sticks, sharpened at one end, and
-a suitable length of strong twine.
-
-When the soil is fairly loose and easily worked, a scuffle-hoe is a very
-satisfactory tool for cultivating the surface. On the other hand, if the
-ground is hard and stony the ordinary draw-hoe should be chosen. A small
-hand weeder, which can be obtained at a cost of from ten to fifty cents,
-is very useful for loosening the surface of the ground close to the rows
-of young seedlings. Look over the illustrations of these tools in a
-seedsman’s catalogue and pick out the one most suited to your needs.
-With a little ingenuity, tools suitable for stirring up the surface soil
-can be fashioned at home from old hoop iron or stout wire fastened on
-wooden handles. After a season’s work in the garden you will discover
-just what you need in this line, and will probably be able to make a
-tool that will give far greater satisfaction than anything you might
-buy.
-
-A garden hose of sufficient length so that water can be applied all over
-the garden is an advantage, but not absolutely necessary. A good rubber
-hose costs, nowadays, about ten dollars for a length of fifty feet, and
-a few expenditures of this nature sadly eat into the profits of the
-garden. As an accessory to the hose a sprinkler throwing a fine spray,
-that can be left running for several hours, is very useful and
-desirable, especially if there is no meter attached to your water
-supply!
-
-When combating insects and diseases in a small garden, a sprayer of the
-atomizer type holding about a quart of insecticide and costing between
-one and two dollars is very valuable. In a garden of considerable
-extent, or in a community garden, insecticides and fungicides can be
-economically and efficiently applied by means of a compressed-air
-spray-pump holding three or four gallons and costing between six and
-eight dollars. If a large potato-patch is cultivated, a
-powder-distributing bellows, costing about one dollar, is useful for
-distributing Paris green in powder form. A powder-distributer for use in
-a small garden can be improvised by making a small cheese-cloth bag in
-which the powder is placed and distributed by shaking the bag over the
-plants.
-
-Wheel-hoes varying in price from five to fifteen dollars—the price
-depending on the size and number of attachments—are available for
-expediting the work in large gardens. Some of these implements have
-attachments so that they may be used for marking the rows, sowing seeds
-in drills or hills, for raking, cultivating, and shallow plowing. These,
-however, are for use on large areas by professional gardeners, or to
-delight the connoisseur of tools.
-
-To sum up—the tools that it is advisable for a beginner, with a garden
-of moderate size, to buy are: a spading-fork, an iron rake, a six-inch
-hoe (of either the scuffle or the ordinary variety), a one-quart
-atomizer for applying spray fluids, and a watering-can. The cost of
-these should not exceed three or four dollars.
-
-Start out with a few essential tools and add others if you find that you
-absolutely need them.
-
-
-
-
-                                   IV
-                 THE SITE—THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION
-
-
-Practically all of the vegetable crops require sunshine, and plenty of
-it, in order to attain their full development. Therefore, in selecting
-the location of your vegetable-garden (if it is possible to have any
-choice) choose one open to sunshine and not hemmed in by tall buildings
-which shut out the air. A location near big trees should be avoided, for
-the trees not only shade the crops, but their wide-spreading roots also
-rob the ground of food and moisture which the vegetables need. The ideal
-location for a vegetable-garden is one open to the south and sheltered
-from the north and west winds, but always with this provision—the soil
-must be of a suitable nature.
-
-This brings us to a consideration of one of the most important factors
-in successful vegetable culture—that of the soil.
-
-Soils vary a great deal in their physical characters and also in their
-chemical composition.
-
-Sandy soils quickly dry out and warm up in the spring, and in
-consequence it is possible to prepare them for planting and produce
-crops much earlier than is the case with heavier soils. For this reason
-sandy soils are usually preferred by market gardeners, whose object is
-to get their crops on the market as soon as possible. One great
-objection to sandy soils is the rapidity with which they lose their
-moisture by drainage and evaporation. They are frequently not naturally
-fertile and it is necessary to apply large quantities of manure to make
-them profitable. They are also subject to loss of fertility by leaching.
-The way in which these disadvantages can be corrected will be told
-later.
-
-At the other end of the scale, almost exactly opposite in every
-particular, are those soils in which clay predominates. Soils of this
-type are cold, they dry out very slowly, and as a result it is late
-before they can be fitted for planting. In dry seasons, because of their
-water-holding capacity, they are greatly to be preferred, and plants
-growing on them are less liable to suffer from drought. Clay soils,
-because of their stickiness, are very difficult to work, and although
-they may be well supplied with plant food, it is sometimes unavailable
-because of the sticky, tenacious character of the clay which does not
-provide a good medium in which the roots may ramify in search of food.
-
-Peat soils and muck lands are made up largely of decayed organic matter.
-They are usually deficient in minerals, but by correct management can be
-made to produce good crops of certain kinds of vegetables. Enormous
-quantities of celery and onions are successfully grown on muck soils.
-
-The kind of soil most desired by the gardener is the happy medium that
-is called loam. This consists of a mixture of clay and sand in nearly
-equal proportions, combined with a considerable quantity of decayed
-organic matter. Such soils are fertile, easy to work, retentive of
-moisture, but sufficiently porous so that the moisture is not retained
-in excess. Air can penetrate such soils, a prime necessity for healthy
-root growth, and also necessary for the existence of bacteria which do
-so much in making inert plant foods soluble and available for the use of
-plants.
-
-The extreme types of soil previously mentioned can be greatly improved
-by judicious treatment. It will be remembered that one of the great
-drawbacks to sandy soils was the readiness with which they lose their
-moisture. The proper treatment for this type is to add organic matter.
-This decays and forms humus, which binds the coarse particles together
-to a certain extent and increases the absorbtive and retentive
-properties of the soil. This organic matter is best applied in the form
-of decayed, or partially decayed, barn-yard or stable manure. If manure
-is not available a good substitute can be found in leaves. These may be
-gathered in the fall and piled in a heap to decay. Very little
-decomposition will take place during the winter months in the Northern
-states, and for this reason leaves that have been piled in heaps for
-twelve months or more are to be preferred. Decay may be hastened by
-forking over the leaves two or three times during the summer. Although
-decayed leaves are better than fresh ones for mixing in with the soil,
-fresh leaves are better than none at all.
-
-The owners of city gardens frequently neglect an opportunity of adding
-humus to their soil when they allow the leaves of street trees to be
-burned or carted away. The city street-cleaning department is usually
-only too glad to be relieved of this duty.
-
-When it is impossible to add humus to the soil through the medium of
-organic manures, as is often the case in city back yards, recourse may
-be had to one of the many brands of prepared humus obtainable from
-seedsmen.
-
-Liming is also considered to be good for sandy soils, as the lime
-exercises a binding influence on the coarse particles. Of course when
-clay is available it is good to add it, and mix thoroughly with the
-sand, but it is seldom that clay is present in near enough proximity to
-make this practice a paying proposition. Compacting sandy soils, by
-means of a roller on large areas, or by means of the feet in the case of
-small plots, is good horticultural practice.
-
-Clay soils, like the preceding, are greatly improved by the addition of
-organic matter. It should be applied in the fall, in the form of strawy
-stable manure, and buried deeply. Leaves also are a valuable addition.
-Liming is good, as this causes the flocculation of the clay particles
-and renders the soil more open and permeable by air and water. The
-addition of sand, sifted coal ashes, or wood ashes serves the same
-purpose. Clay soils are benefited by being plowed or spaded in the fall
-and left rough over the winter. This allows the frost to penetrate more
-readily, resulting in the breaking up and disintegration of the clods.
-Another advantage of fall plowing in the case of land of this type is
-that by so doing it dries out more rapidly in the spring and it is
-possible to get your crops planted earlier.
-
-Muck and swamp soils are frequently waterlogged, and before they will
-support a crop it is necessary to underdrain them; but as this is an
-operation that is scarcely practicable for those for whom this book is
-written, it will not be dealt with here. As there is always a lack of
-basic salts in this type of soil, liming is practised, usually to good
-advantage.
-
-Those who contemplate taking over a piece of land for the purpose of
-growing vegetables should, if the land has not previously produced a
-crop, obtain the opinion of a competent gardener as to its possibilities
-from a gardening standpoint. Such men are usually available in every
-community, and as a rule are glad to help. If expert opinion is not
-available, the novice can form an approximate idea of its value by
-making careful observations in the following manner. Take notice of the
-vegetation growing on the plot. If it is luxuriant and consists mostly
-of grasses it will probably be all right for growing vegetables. Dig
-holes here and there with a spade or trowel and examine the soil. If you
-find, an inch or two below the surface, nothing but tin cans and broken
-bottles it is not a safe gardening proposition. Neither should you go
-ahead if you find only a thin layer of topsoil, two or three inches,
-above the subsoil. It is usually easy to tell the difference between
-what is known as topsoil and subsoil. The topsoil is darker in color,
-due to the presence of humus, and of a finer texture. This topsoil
-should be at least eight inches deep to get good results. Soils which
-contain too many large stones should be avoided, also those which
-consist of only a thin layer overlying a rock ledge.
-
-Most vegetables succeed best in a soil that is slightly alkaline, and
-land intended for garden use should be tested with litmus paper to
-discover if acid is present in excess. Take a piece of blue litmus paper
-and press it upon a handful of moist soil. If it turns red it indicates
-the presence of acid and the advisability of liming. Lime is a valuable
-element in the soil, as it assists in making plant foods soluble. It is
-best applied in the fall, spreading it over the surface and digging or
-plowing it in. It can also be applied in the spring, but in no case
-should it be put on so that it comes in direct contact with manure. Lime
-applied with manure causes ammonia to be liberated too rapidly in the
-form of gas, which escapes into the air, and thus much of the fertility
-of the manure is lost. When it is necessary to apply lime in the spring,
-the manure should first be dug or plowed under, and the lime then spread
-on the surface, and raked or harrowed in. Use about 20 pounds of
-air-slaked lime or 30 to 40 pounds of ground limestone to 400 square
-feet.
-
-Thorough preparation of the soil is essential if best results are to be
-obtained. This means that the soil must be broken up and pulverized as
-deeply as possible. There are several reasons for this. Breaking up the
-soil to a good depth increases the water-holding capacity of the soil—a
-very important point because of the fact that plants have to take all of
-the food substances that they obtain from the soil in solution. It
-provides a greater bulk of soil in which the plant roots may ramify in
-search of food. The less fertile the soil the greater is the necessity
-for breaking it deeply to increase the area from which the roots may
-draw nourishment. Deep tillage encourages the roots to penetrate
-downward, and plants whose roots go down deeply in the soil are less
-likely to suffer during dry spells.
-
-It is well to remember, however, that although it is desirable to have
-the soil broken up deeply it is not a good practice to bring too much of
-the subsoil up to the surface in digging or plowing. In farming
-operations a greater depth of soil is obtained by using what is known as
-a subsoil plow. This implement frequently is used after the field has
-been plowed in the usual way and penetrates below the topsoil and breaks
-up the subsoil, but without disturbing their relative positions. In
-gardens the same result is obtained by what is called bastard trenching,
-of which more will be said later.
-
-In preparing a piece of ground that has not previously been cultivated
-the first thing to do is to remove all large stones and rubbish that may
-be on the surface. If it is a large area, the work of breaking it will,
-of course, be done with a plow. Supposing the land is covered with a
-growth of sod, it is a good plan to go over it several times with a disk
-harrow before plowing. This will cut up the sods, cause them to decay
-more rapidly when they are turned under, and insure the soil being
-pulverized throughout its whole depth. After plowing, harrowing is
-necessary to break the lumps and to compact the soil somewhat. The
-fining process can then be completed by hand, using a rake for the
-purpose.
-
-Small areas can be prepared for planting by digging with a spade or
-spading-fork. A trench should first be dug a foot or eighteen inches
-wide and a foot deep, provided that the topsoil extends that far. The
-soil from this trench should be placed on one side so as to be available
-for filling in the last trench when digging is finished. Having opened
-the first trench, proceed with the digging, turning each spadeful of
-soil bottom up in the trench. The soil can be turned over with greater
-ease and more efficiently by always maintaining a trench when digging.
-It is the only way by which sods, manure, and weeds may be properly
-buried so that they may decay and form plant food.
-
-Bastard trenching is carried out in the same way as digging except that
-the trench is made at least two feet wide and the subsoil thus exposed
-is broken up with a spading-fork before the topsoil from the next trench
-is turned over upon it.
-
-When digging, the soil should be broken up as finely as possible with
-the spade or fork, so as to leave no lumps, and all large stones should
-be thrown out.
-
-Digging or plowing should never be attempted when the ground is frozen
-or when it is so wet that the soil sticks to the tools used.
-
-After the soil has been turned over and broken up the rake should come
-into operation and the surface fined so as to fit it for seed-sowing.
-
-
-
-
-                                   V
-                              FERTILIZERS
-
-
-The most important elements that it is necessary to apply to the soil in
-the form of fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash.
-
-_Nitrogen_ greatly stimulates the production of leaves, and an excess of
-it applied to crops grown for their fruit or roots is undesirable. It is
-contained in all the animal manures, associated with other fertilizing
-elements, and in a practically pure state in nitrate of soda.
-
-_Phosphorus_ is a valuable and necessary fertilizer which has a great
-influence on the production of fruits and seeds. It is found in greater
-or less quantities in animal manures, and in bone meal. Phosphatic rock
-that has been treated with acid is another important source of
-phosphorus.
-
-_Potash._ The rôle of potash in the soil is similar to that of
-phosphoric acid. It is considered to be a valuable fertilizer for all
-crops that are grown for their roots. It occurs in animal manures and in
-wood ashes. Muriate of potash and kainite contain potash in a more
-concentrated form, but are difficult to obtain at present.
-
-All of these three elements must be present in the soil for the
-production of healthy crops.
-
-It is generally conceded that the best all-round fertilizer for plants
-is decayed _barn-yard_ or _stable manure_. It not only adds fertility to
-the soil, but by its decay it helps to make the mineral particles
-soluble and thus available as plant foods. As already indicated, it also
-improves the physical condition of the soil, making sandy soils more
-retentive of moisture, and rendering clay soils more porous. When
-applied in the spring it should be decayed or partly decayed, as in this
-condition it is immediately available for the use of the crop. If it is
-put on the ground in the fall, fresh manure may be used and plowed
-under. By the time that the planting season arrives it will be
-sufficiently decayed. If there is no objection on the score of
-appearances, stable manure, either fresh or decayed, may be applied in
-the form of a thin mulch (a layer on the surface of the ground) at any
-time when the plants are growing. The fertility is gradually washed down
-into the soil by rain, and a loose covering of this kind is of
-additional advantage in that it helps to prevent the loss of water from
-the soil by evaporation. This mulch must _not_ be worked into the soil
-so that it comes in contact with the plant roots, but should be left on
-the surface until it is dug under the following fall or spring.
-Discretion must be exercised in its use. Root crops, that are already
-growing luxuriantly, such as beets or carrots, or crops that are grown
-for their fruit, such as beans and tomatoes, would probably be harmed by
-a surface dressing of this kind. Barn-yard manure is rich in nitrogen,
-which is a great stimulant of leaf growth. If it is applied too freely
-to the crops just mentioned it is likely to result in an excessive crop
-of leaves at the expense of roots or fruit.
-
-A dressing of stable manure two or three inches thick all over the plot
-or at the rate of from three to five hundred pounds to a plot twenty by
-twenty feet is about the right quantity to use when the ground is dug or
-plowed.
-
-_Sheep manure_ is perhaps the next in importance of the organic manures
-and is more concentrated than barn-yard or stable manure. It can be
-applied at the rate of forty pounds to four hundred square feet. It is
-better to spread it over the surface immediately after the ground has
-been broken up, and thoroughly mix it with the surface soil by means of
-a rake or harrow.
-
-_Hen manure_ is still more concentrated and should be used in the same
-way, or as a top-dressing after the crops have started their growth.
-Twenty pounds to four hundred square feet is a suitable amount to apply.
-To facilitate its distribution it should be mixed with dry earth and
-kept in a dry place for a few weeks before it is desired to apply it.
-
-Of the so-called _chemical fertilizers_, those that are sold by seedsmen
-as “complete” fertilizers are the best for the amateur to buy. These at
-the present time are usually made up in the proportion of 5 per cent.
-nitrogen, 8 per cent. phosphorus, and 1 per cent. potash. Use twelve
-pounds to four hundred square feet.
-
-All of the preceding are “complete” fertilizers containing nitrogen,
-phosphorus, and potash in varying proportions. If they are used in
-combination the quantities must be reduced.
-
-_Bone meal_ is a fertilizer which contains phosphorus and nitrogen. In
-some of its forms it is rather slow acting and sometimes does not become
-fully available for the use of the crop until the year succeeding its
-application. Use twelve pounds to four hundred square feet.
-
-_Nitrate of soda_ is the quickest-acting fertilizer that we have and is
-very valuable for stimulating the growth of plants early in the spring,
-when the nitrogen content of the soil is usually low. It is especially
-suitable for those crops that are grown for their leaves, such as
-spinach, lettuce, and cabbage. Great care must be exercised in the use
-of this fertilizer, as an overdose will injure or kill the plants. As it
-is very soluble, it should not be applied until the plants are up and
-ready to use it, otherwise much of it will be washed out of the soil and
-wasted. It should be sprinkled on the surface of the soil, first
-crushing the lumps, and then mixed in with a hoe or cultivator. An ounce
-to each square yard, applied at intervals of about three weeks, until
-the crops have a good start, is the right proportion to use. It is
-impossible to lay too much emphasis on the necessity for care in the use
-of this fertilizer. It must not be allowed to come in contact with the
-leaves of the crop, or it will cause them to burn and turn brown.
-Generally speaking, it is not a good fertilizer to use on root or fruit
-crops, although it can be used to good advantage in helping young plants
-of tomato, cucumber, muskmelon, etc., to get a start just after they
-have been planted out. Its use later in the season is likely to result
-in the production of leaves at the expense of fruit.
-
-_Wood ashes_ contain potash and lime. This fertilizer is a valuable
-dressing for heavy, clayey soils, as it improves their physical
-condition. It is good for root crops, such as beets, carrots, radishes,
-etc. Use twenty pounds to four hundred square feet.
-
-It is best to apply all concentrated fertilizers as surface dressings,
-and then harrow or rake them into the soil, rather than to plow or dig
-them under.
-
-If it so happens that the soil is not very fertile and there is only a
-limited quantity of fertilizer available, it is a good plan, instead of
-spreading it all over the plot, to apply it only in close proximity to
-the hills or drills in which the plants are growing.
-
-It is important to remember that the greatest good can only be obtained
-from chemical fertilizers when the soil is plentifully supplied with
-humus.
-
-
-
-
-                                   VI
-                    THE KINDS OF VEGETABLES TO GROW
-
-
-A number of factors have to be taken into consideration before deciding
-just which kinds of vegetables to plant in your garden. Some of these
-factors are: the nature of the soil, the size of the garden, the food
-value of the crop and the ease with which it may be stored for winter
-use.
-
-Sometimes it is possible to adapt the soil to the crop, but usually it
-is easier to adapt the crop to the soil. A rich loam will support
-practically all of the vegetables and produce good crops. A thin, sandy
-soil which has not been properly fertilized is only suitable for such
-crops as bush beans, beets, Swiss chard, tomato, and New Zealand
-spinach. Of course other crops can be grown on such a soil, but not very
-satisfactorily. Potatoes like a sandy soil, but it must be well
-fertilized.
-
-Heavy clay soils will grow cabbage, kale, corn, parsley, parsnips (if
-the soil is deep), peas and rhubarb.
-
-If the soil is shallow it is not advisable to attempt any of the root
-crops that make a long root. In this category belong the long beets,
-parsnips, and salsify.
-
-That person is unwise who attempts to grow potatoes, corn, and cabbage
-in a very restricted area. These crops need plenty of room in which to
-develop, and when one has only a city back yard, or a small plot, it is
-better to concentrate on the smaller-growing vegetables. The best crops
-to grow in the city back yard are bush beans, parsley, radish, beets,
-Swiss chard, and tomato. Peas would probably succeed if it were not for
-the sparrows which pick off the leaves as fast as they are produced.
-
-One is strictly limited if the available ground is shaded. All the
-vegetables need sun for the greater part of the day. Those kinds which
-are grown for their leaves are more satisfactory in a shady garden, and
-if the soil conditions are favorable the following may be tried: beet,
-cabbage, lettuce, and Swiss chard. Even these need a few hours of
-sunshine.
-
-Those who are interested in dietetics may wish to choose their
-vegetables on the basis of their food value. In terms of the calorie,
-the unit of energy as applied to food, we find that 1 ounce of dried
-beans (seeds) and 8 ounces of string-beans are required to produce a
-hundred calories. Of green corn 3.2 ounces are needed; of potatoes, 5.3
-ounces; of onions, 8 ounces; of beets, 9.6 ounces; of cabbage, 13.3
-ounces; and at the bottom of the list comes celery, of which 23.7 ounces
-are required to produce a hundred calories. It is misleading, however,
-to take a list of vegetables with their caloric values and decide, that
-because 6.4 ounces of peas contain one hundred calories, while it is
-necessary to have 10.1 ounces of carrots to produce the same amount,
-nothing but peas shall be grown in the garden. The proper basis on which
-to make a decision along these lines is on the amount of calories that
-can be obtained from each square yard of ground. A considerable area is
-necessary for the production of a pound of peas, while a similar weight
-of carrots could be produced in a much smaller space. Furthermore, it
-must be remembered that the human system demands a certain amount of
-bulky foods, and these are supplied by vegetables low in caloric values.
-
-There are a number of crops that can easily be preserved or stored for
-winter use, and this should be considered when deciding what kinds of
-vegetables to grow. String-beans are easily preserved by pickling them
-in brine, and there is no difficulty whatever in caring for the
-dry-shell beans when they are not infested with weevils. All of the root
-crops—carrots, beets, parsnips—can be easily stored in sand or soil in
-the cellar, and potatoes are one of the easiest of crops to care for.
-Onions can readily be carried over into the winter if a cool, airy room
-is available. All of the crops just mentioned are fairly high in food
-value.
-
-
-
-
-                                  VII
-                          PLANNING THE GARDEN
-
-
-A garden can be made without a plan, but it is usually a haphazard sort
-of affair, and it frequently means that much more money is spent for
-seeds than is necessary. Another frequent happening in a miss-or-hit
-garden of this kind is a plethora of some kinds of vegetables and a
-great scarcity of others.
-
-It is difficult to give any definite information as to the quantities of
-vegetables to grow, as yields vary so much, owing to the character of
-the soil and climate, the variety of the vegetable, and the skill, or
-lack of it, of the gardener. The preferences of the individual must also
-be considered. The table in the Appendix giving the approximate amount
-of vegetables that can be obtained from a hundred-foot row may be
-helpful. It must be remembered, however, that these figures are only
-approximate and that wide variations can be expected.
-
-When planning your garden you must take into consideration the sunshine
-it receives, and if part of it is shaded reserve that part for those
-crops that will endure shade. If there is any variation in the nature of
-the soil, whether in regard to its physical condition, fertility, or
-wetness, you should place the crops accordingly.
-
-As a general rule the rows should run north and south, as by this plan
-each row receives its share of sunlight. If for any reason this is not
-practicable, put the tall-growing crops at the north end of the plot, so
-that they do not shade the smaller kinds. The perennial crops, like
-asparagus and rhubarb, are best placed at one end or side of the plot so
-that they are not in the way when digging or plowing is being done. It
-makes a better-looking plot if those vegetables which are planted the
-same distance apart are grouped together.
-
-Plan to have the ground occupied for the whole season. Many vegetables
-take a comparatively short time in which to mature, and these can be
-removed when harvested and the ground occupied by another crop. Thus
-peas can be followed by cauliflower or cabbage, early beets by beans,
-lettuce by tomato, and so on. Find out the average number of
-growing-days in your locality and consult the table in the Appendix
-giving the number of days required to bring the various crops to
-maturity.
-
-When planning for succession vegetables, have some regard to crop
-rotation. That is to say, if the ground in the early part of the season
-has been occupied by a leaf crop, follow it by a fruit crop, or _vice
-versa_. Early cabbage followed by beans may be cited as an example.
-Similarly, root crops may be followed by leaf crops, as early carrots
-and fall spinach.
-
-Another important reason for crop rotation is that it lessens the danger
-of loss from disease. Many of the fungous diseases of plants are carried
-over from year to year in the soil. Some of them are able to live on
-only one particular host plant, and if that crop is not grown in the
-soil where the fungus is hibernating the disease ultimately dies out
-through lack of food.
-
-The first thing to do in planning a vegetable-garden is to measure the
-plot and transfer its outlines to scale on paper. Then, bearing in mind
-the considerations just outlined in this chapter, decide on the kinds of
-vegetables you wish to grow. Now the real fun of planning begins! The
-desires of the grower as to quantities and variety of vegetables must be
-scaled down so as to fit the plot. Take a ruler and draw lines across
-your plan to represent the rows of vegetables. The distance between the
-rows may be drawn to scale to correspond with the actual distance
-between the rows on the ground,[1] or you may merely note the
-theoretical distance between the lines. Write the name of the vegetable
-on each line, with that of the succession crop, if any. It is a good
-idea to mount your plan on stiff cardboard when finished, and to allow a
-space either at the side or on the back for making notes to be taken
-during the growing-season. These notes may consist of reminders that
-such and such a crop is not suited in its present location, the time
-occupied from seed-sowing to maturity, the desirability or otherwise of
-certain vegetables, etc.
-
------
-
-[1] See Appendix, Table III.
-
-
-
-
-                                  VIII
-                 SEEDS, SEED-SOWING, AND TRANSPLANTING
-
-
-Most seeds, with the exception of carrot, onion, parsnip, and parsley,
-will grow fairly satisfactorily even if they are more than one year old,
-so that left-overs from the preceding year may be planted with good
-results. Before using these left-over seeds, however, it is wise to test
-their germinating power before committing them to the garden. To plant
-seeds which will not germinate is a waste of time and labor. Testing the
-viability of seeds is a simple and easy matter and very advisable if
-there is any doubt. Count out fifty or one hundred seeds of the kind
-that you wish to test and plant them in sand or earth in a cigar-box or
-something similar. Place them in a fairly warm room (temperature about
-60° Fahr.) and keep the soil moist. In a week or two take note of the
-number which have sprouted, and this will give you the percentage of
-good seeds and some idea of the quantity you will have to plant in order
-to get a good stand. For instance, if only 50 per cent. of the seeds
-germinate it means that it will be necessary to plant double the usual
-number to make sure of having a sufficient number of plants. Another and
-less messy way of testing seeds is to place them on a plate between
-blotters or cloth, which must be kept moist, covering them with another
-plate to prevent too rapid evaporation of moisture. Although they
-adequately furnish the desired information, neither of these methods of
-testing seeds gives an absolutely accurate indication of what will take
-place when they are planted in the garden. Seeds out of doors are
-exposed to a number of hazards that are not present under indoor
-conditions.
-
-Before planting any seeds outdoors the soil must be in the proper
-condition. It must not be so wet that it sticks to the tools used, the
-surface must be finely pulverized with a rake, and all large stones
-taken off.
-
-There are three ways of planting seeds outdoors—in drills, in hills,
-and broadcast. The _drills_ consist of shallow trenches from one-half
-inch to two inches deep, in which the seeds are sown. The young plants
-are later thinned out so that they stand an equal distance apart.
-
-Seeds are said to be planted in _hills_ when they are sown in such a way
-that the resultant plants are in groups of three or more standing the
-same distance in the rows as the distance between the rows.
-
-_Broadcast_ sowing is when the seeds are scattered over the surface of
-the ground and covered by raking them in, or by sprinkling soil over
-them.
-
-A garden line should always be stretched across the plot as a guide when
-making the drills. This insures straight rows, resulting in an enhanced
-appearance of the garden and greater ease in subsequent cultivation. A
-variety of tools can be used for making the drills or furrows. For those
-seeds which require to be planted deeply,[2] a draw-hoe is a useful
-tool, or, if this is not available, the corner of a rake will suffice.
-The shallow drills can be made with a hoe or rake handle or with a
-pointed stick.
-
-The seeds should be planted immediately after the drill is made, before
-the soil dries up. Consult the table in the Appendix showing the
-quantity of seed required to plant a row one hundred feet long, and
-refrain from planting too thickly. Being too liberal with seeds at
-planting-time is not only wasteful, but also involves a great deal of
-extra labor later on when the young seedlings have to be thinned in
-order to give them room for proper development. Sow the seeds as evenly
-as possible and cover by raking the soil over them. The soil over the
-seeds must be firmed. In the case of the larger seeds, such as peas and
-beans, this can be done by walking along the row. The earth over the
-smaller seeds is best compacted by means of the back of a hoe or rake.
-This firming process is carried out in order that the earth may come in
-close contact with the seeds, so that they may absorb the moisture
-contained in it; also to establish capillary action with the soil below,
-resulting in moisture being drawn up to the surface.
-
-There is a tendency among beginners to plant their seeds either on
-raised ridges or, sometimes at the other extreme, in deep trenches. The
-first method is liable to result in the plants suffering from drought,
-and the latter in flooding, if it happens to be a wet season. There are
-times when it is advisable to make use of these practices, as will be
-described when the methods of cultivation are taken up in detail, but
-speaking generally, level cultivation is best.
-
-After the seeds are planted we are enabled to sit back and have a
-breathing-spell until the young plants appear, when it is necessary to
-proceed with thinning and cultivating as described in the following
-chapter.
-
-It is the common practice, in connection with some crops, not to plant
-the seeds directly where they are to mature, but to sow them elsewhere
-at first and to transplant the young plants to their permanent quarters
-later.
-
-In the Northern states the growing-season is not sufficiently long to
-get best results from such tropical plants as tomato, egg-plant and
-pepper if the seeds are sown outside. A longer growing-season is
-afforded to these plants by raising them in a greenhouse or hotbed, and
-transplanting them to the garden when the earth has warmed up and danger
-of frost is over.
-
-Cabbage is transplanted for the reason that if the seed was sown
-directly in the field it would be necessary to plant much more seed than
-was actually needed, and because the ground can be profitably occupied
-with another crop while the young cabbage plants are reaching a sizable
-condition. Early cabbage is also sown in a greenhouse or cold-frame in
-order to hasten the time of maturity.
-
-Although it is possible to raise these transplanted crops with no other
-facilities than those provided by the ordinary dwelling-house, it is not
-worth while when only a few plants are required. Young plants of tomato,
-egg-plant, pepper, and cabbage can be obtained at such a trifling
-expense from seedsmen who make a business of raising them that it does
-not pay to bother with raising them yourself.
-
-An eye should be given to weather conditions when transplanting. The
-plants will feel the check less if a cloudy, humid day is chosen on
-which to do the work. The soil should be moist, but not so wet as to be
-sticky. The hole for the reception of the roots can conveniently be made
-with a trowel. Make it large enough so that the roots may be spread out
-and then press the earth gently but firmly around them. If the soil is
-dry leave a shallow depression around the stem of each plant to
-facilitate watering. Sufficient water should be applied to soak the
-ground for a depth of six inches or more, and when it has drained away
-from the surface, the depression may be filled with loose dry earth to
-prevent the moisture escaping by evaporation.
-
-If for any reason it is necessary to do the work of transplanting on a
-dry, sunny day, the young plants should be shaded. This can be
-accomplished by covering them with inverted flower-pots, or with
-newspapers weighted at the corners with stones to keep them from blowing
-away, or a shingle or thin piece of board may be stuck in the ground on
-the sunny side so that its shadow falls on the plant.
-
-In most cases, unless they are grown in earthen or paper pots, the root
-system of the plants is injured in transplanting. In order to restore
-the balance between root and shoot it is advisable, and customary, to
-cut off part of the leaves. If the whole of the leaves are left on the
-plant they wilt and sometimes die because the reduced number of roots is
-unable to supply their demands for moisture.
-
------
-
-[2] See Appendix, Table III, for the depth to plant various seeds.
-
-
-
-
-                                   IX
-                          HOEING AND THINNING
-
-
-When the young plants appear above the ground it is time to commence
-cultivating. This consists of breaking up and pulverizing the surface
-crust. There are several reasons for doing this. It allows air to enter
-the soil, which, it will be remembered, is a necessity for the roots of
-plants and has an important bearing on the formation of plant food. It
-keeps down the weeds, and, most important of all, it helps to conserve
-the moisture in the soil.
-
-All who have had anything to do with the cultivation of the soil will
-have noticed that when its surface is stirred up after a rain it quickly
-dries out. It will also have been noticed that, if any one has walked
-over this soil just after it has been stirred up, the soil in the
-footprints remains moist. Why is this? It is simply that capillary
-action has been broken by the loosening of the surface, and the
-soil-water rises to the loosened soil and no farther. On the other hand,
-capillary action has been restored in those places where the soil has
-been compacted by walking on it, and the surface here is moist because
-moisture is continually being supplied from the store below. This
-moisture just as continually evaporates during dry weather and is lost
-as far as the plant roots are concerned.
-
-Breaking up the surface soil provides a dust mulch or soil blanket which
-shades the moist soil below from the sun’s rays, and in a large measure
-prevents evaporation. Therefore, after every rain, just as soon as the
-soil has dried out sufficiently so that it does not stick to the tool
-used, the surface should be cultivated.
-
-Various tools are used for this purpose. When working close to young
-plants the small hand weeders are useful. Between the rows a hoe should
-be used. These are of three types. The _scuffle-hoe_, which is pushed
-through the soil just underneath the surface, the operator walking
-backward. This is a handy tool for small gardens if the soil is not too
-hard, and its use gives the advantage of it not being necessary to walk
-on the loosened soil.
-
-The ordinary _draw-hoe_ is used with a chopping motion and the operator
-walks forward over the loosened soil. It is a good tool for getting rid
-of weeds, and is better than the preceding for use in hard or stony
-ground.
-
-There are many forms of _wheel-hoes_ which enable the work of
-cultivating to be done very expeditiously. They are pushed forward with
-a jerky motion, one step at a time, pulling the implement toward you
-before making the forward thrust, thus gaining momentum before the teeth
-enter the ground. Do not attempt to push a wheel-hoe in the same way
-that you would a perambulator—it’s too hard work.
-
-To water or not to water is sometimes a debatable point in
-vegetable-growing. There is this much to be said about the application
-of water to the garden. If thorough cultivation has been properly
-attended to there will be much less need of watering, and when it is
-decided that watering is necessary, let it be thorough, so that the soil
-is soaked to a depth of a foot or so. Then as soon as the soil has dried
-out somewhat, stir up the surface so that the moisture is not lost by
-evaporation. The best way to apply water is by means of a sprinkler,
-throwing a fine spray, which can be left operating for two or three
-hours. This insures a proper wetting of the soil without washing away
-any of the loose soil on the surface. The next best thing is to use a
-hose. The watering-pot is of little use except in a very small garden,
-because one gets tired of toting water before the plants have been given
-nearly enough.
-
-In order to obtain good crops it is necessary to allow the plants
-sufficient room to attain their full development. They must have space
-in the earth for their roots to ramify in search of food, and room above
-to spread their leaves to the air and sunshine. A number of seeds,
-including beet, carrot, corn, lettuce, onion, parsnip, radish, spinach,
-and Swiss chard, are sown in such a way (in order to insure a good
-stand) that when they germinate the young plants stand too close
-together. These have to be thinned out.[3] This operation should be
-carried out as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle. Choose
-a cloudy day when the soil is fairly moist, and pull out the weak,
-spindly plants, leaving the strong, healthy ones.
-
------
-
-[3] See Appendix, Table III, for distance these plants should stand
-apart.
-
-
-
-
-                                   X
-                           STAKING AND TYING
-
-
-Some of our vegetable crops need supports of some kind to obtain best
-results from them. Peas, and beans of some varieties, and tomatoes are
-of this nature.
-
-The dwarf peas, which need no supports, are the best for the small
-garden, but if the taller kinds, which are more productive, are grown it
-is necessary to supply them with something on which to climb. Twiggy
-brush-wood is the best for the purpose, as the pea tendrils attach
-themselves readily to this. The bases of the branches should be
-sharpened with a knife and then stuck firmly into the ground on either
-side of the row when the peas are a few inches high. Chicken netting
-stretched along the row and supported on strong stakes is also suitable.
-
-Pole beans climb by means of twining, and poles from six to eight feet
-high and about two inches in diameter are usually supplied for them.
-These poles are inserted in the ground by first making a hole with a
-crowbar. Another method of supporting beans is by means of V-shaped
-frames about six feet high and three feet wide at the bottom. They can
-be made of light lumber, such as three by one or two by two inch rough
-pine. These are spaced from eight to ten feet apart and connected by
-thin strips of lumber along the top and along the bases. Strings are
-fastened on one of the base strips, carried over the top and fastened to
-the base strip on the other side. These strings should be from six to
-nine inches apart. The beans are planted so that there is one bean-plant
-to each string.
-
-Tomatoes may be left to grow naturally, in which case they sprawl over
-the ground and much fruit is spoiled by coming in contact with the
-earth, or they may be staked. If grown to a single stem each plant will
-need a stout stake to which it may be attached by tying with pieces of
-cloth or tape about an inch wide. If twine were used it would probably
-cut into and injure the soft stems. Another way of supporting tomatoes
-is to allow all the shoots to grow at will, but to prevent them from
-falling on the ground by placing around each plant three or four stakes
-connected with barrel hoops or with twine.
-
-
-
-
-                                   XI
-                             INSECT ENEMIES
-
-
-To be successful in controlling insect pests, preventive or remedial
-measures must be applied early. If spraying is deferred until insects
-infest the plants in large numbers, great difficulty is experienced in
-getting rid of them. It is emphatically much easier to kill a few
-insects than a whole host. If they are once allowed to obtain the upper
-hand, the crop will be so much injured that it frequently will not pay
-to attempt to save it.
-
-The important point that must be grasped in connection with the control
-of insect pests is that they may, from the point of view of the
-gardener, be divided into two groups—“biting” insects and “sucking”
-insects.
-
-The biting insects _eat_ the leaves, roots, or stems of the plants
-attacked, and their presence is usually obvious even to a casual
-observer.
-
-The sucking insects obtain their food, not by eating the leaves, but by
-inserting their “beaks” into the plant tissue and sucking its juices.
-Since it is not feasible to poison the sap of plants to kill the
-insects, the best method is to spray them with what are known as
-“contact” insecticides. These must be applied in such a way that they
-actually come in contact with the insects. Soap solutions, kerosene
-emulsion, and nicotine are the principal contact sprays.
-
-Sometimes, instead of using sprays it is more convenient to use dry
-insecticides in the form of powder. This is particularly the case when a
-spray-pump is unavailable or the water supply not close at hand.
-
-No matter in what form these insecticides are applied, the operation
-must be done thoroughly or little benefit will result. The contact
-sprays should be applied with force in such a way that every insect is
-covered. To apply the stomach poisons a fine, mist-like spray should be
-used which will coat the leaves with a thin film of poison. If too much
-is applied there is a tendency for the mixture to run into globules,
-which concentrates the poison at the tip of the leaves. This may result
-in injury to the plants and is not effective in coating the whole of the
-leaves.
-
-The feeding habits of some insects make it almost impossible to control
-them by spraying; so traps, poison bait, hand picking, repellents, or
-screening the plants to prevent access of insects are resorted to. These
-measures are fully described in connection with the insects against
-which they are used. Following are some of the more important insect
-pests.
-
-Beets.—_Flea-beetles_ (small, very active insects, as indicated by
-their name), _blister-beetles_, and various caterpillars, which eat the
-leaves, attack beets. Lead arsenate[4] should be applied as soon as the
-injury is noticed.
-
------
-
-[4] Various spray formulas will be found at end of chapter.
-
-Cabbage.—Probably the worst insect pest of this crop is the
-_cabbage-worm_, a green caterpillar which hatches from eggs laid on the
-leaves by the common white butterflies, which may be seen flitting about
-the garden from early spring until fall. Spraying the plants with
-arsenate of lead to which a “sticker” has been added to make it adhere
-to the leaves is a standard remedy. Cabbage is also attacked by
-flea-beetles and caterpillars of various kinds, which are controlled by
-the same methods adopted for the cabbage-worm.
-
-Cauliflower.—Same pests as cabbage.
-
-Corn.—The _corn earworm_ is one of the worst of the pests attacking
-corn. This is a caterpillar which at first feeds on the “silk” and later
-penetrates the ear and eats the kernels. It is very difficult to control
-this insect. Lead arsenate sprayed or dusted on the silk as soon as it
-appears is a partial remedy.
-
-Cucumber.—The _striped cucumber-beetle_ is about a fourth of an inch in
-length, yellow in color, with three black stripes on the wing covers. It
-eats the leaves of the young plants and if unchecked ruins the chances
-of obtaining a crop. One of the best ways of dealing with this insect is
-to prevent it from gaining access to the plants by the use of
-cheese-cloth or wire mosquito-netting screens. These can be made by
-tacking the material used over bottomless boxes, not so high as to shade
-the plants, but of sufficient width and length to give them room to
-grow. Another method is to place two or three short sticks in the center
-of the hill and over these spread a “tent” of cheese-cloth, holding down
-the edges with stones and earth. Tobacco dust sprinkled plentifully over
-and around the plants acts as a repellent.
-
-The _twelve-spotted cucumber-beetle_ may be controlled by the same
-measures and by spraying with lead arsenate.
-
-Egg-plant is subject to the same pests as the potato.
-
-Kale and Kohlrabi are attacked by the same insects that attack cabbage.
-
-Muskmelon is subject to the same insects as the cucumber.
-
-Onion.—_Thrips_ is a tiny insect which infests onions, sucks the sap
-from the leaves, and causes them to assume a silvery appearance. Most
-vegetables are subject to its attack. It can be controlled by using a
-contact spray, such as nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion.
-
-Potato.—The most troublesome insect pest of the potato is the
-well-known _Colorado potato-beetle_. This may be controlled by picking
-the insects from the plant by hand, or by dusting the leaves with Paris
-green which has been diluted by mixing it with fifty times its bulk of
-air-slaked lime. Spraying the plants with lead arsenate is even more
-effective.
-
-The _flea-beetle_ eats small holes in the leaves, making them appear as
-if they had been riddled with shot. The spray treatment adopted for the
-_Colorado beetle_ will also take care of them.
-
-_Blister-beetles_ are slender insects varied in color which attack
-potatoes and many other vegetables. Lead arsenate is the best remedy.
-
-Pumpkin is likely to be affected with the same pests as cucumber and
-squash.
-
-Squash.—This crop is subject to the same pests as cucumber. The
-_squash-bug_, or _stink-bug_ (which also attacks cucumbers and melons),
-is grayish-brown in color and about three-fourths of an inch long. It
-exhales a very offensive odor which makes hand picking, one of the most
-effective means of controlling it, an extremely unpleasant task. The
-measures adopted against the _cucumber-beetles_ are also effective in
-controlling this pest. Other remedies that may be tried are the
-collection and destruction of the conspicuous eggs which are to be found
-in masses on the under sides of the leaves, and trapping the adults by
-placing shingles on the ground around the plants. The insects will
-congregate under these and can then be destroyed by stepping on them.
-
-Tomato.—The _tomato-worm_, the larva of a Sphinx-moth, sometimes
-occasions much damage. Hand picking is a good remedy, or the plants may
-be sprayed with lead arsenate. If the latter course is followed, care
-must be taken to clean the tomatoes thoroughly before eating them. The
-tomato is also subject to the same insect pests as the potato.
-
-Watermelon is attacked by the same insects that infest cucumbers.
-
-Practically all vegetable crops are subject to attack by the following
-insects:
-
-_Aphis_, or Plant Lice.—These occur in both small and large species in
-a great variety of color. They injure the plants by sucking their
-juices, and frequently cause the leaves to become curled and deformed.
-Usually these insects are to be found on the soft growing tips of the
-plants or on the under sides of the leaves. Prompt application of
-remedial measures is necessary. The green-colored forms are usually the
-easiest to kill, and a simple soap solution is generally effective. The
-black _aphids_ are more tenacious of life, and a stronger insecticide
-must be used, such as nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion.
-
-Cutworms are the larvæ of several species of moths. They are especially
-partial to beans, cabbage, corn, onions, and tomatoes. They are usually
-dark-colored, greasy-looking caterpillars which spend most of their
-time, when they are not eating, just underneath the surface of the
-ground. They cut off the plants by eating through the stems. Several
-different measures should be in operation at the same time to rid a
-garden of _cutworms_. One of the most effective is the use of poisoned
-bait, but this is not advisable when live stock have access to the
-garden. The bait should be strewed liberally close to the plants.
-Shingles or thin boards may be placed on the surface of the soil. The
-_cutworms_ will congregate under these and can then be killed by any
-means that suggests itself. Hunting for them at night, when they are
-feeding, with a lantern or flashlight, is another method of reducing
-their numbers.
-
-Two very important soil pests are _white grubs_ and _wireworms_. They
-attack potatoes and the roots of many garden crops. The former are
-large, clumsy, white grubs, the larvæ of the June beetle. _Wireworms_
-are long, slender, shining grubs, which may be of any color from light
-yellow to dark brown. They are the larvæ of click-beetles. It is very
-difficult to control these pests. Frequent, deep tilling of the soil is
-probably the best remedy. If chickens are allowed access to the garden
-plot when it is being plowed or spaded they will eat a great many of
-them. _Wireworms_ may be trapped by attracting them to buried pieces of
-carrot or potato. These traps must be examined every morning and the
-insects congregated on them killed.
-
-Following are the formulas for the various insecticides recommended.
-
-
-                   STOMACH POISONS FOR BITING INSECTS
-
-                        _Lead-arsenate Solution_
-
-          1 oz. lead arsenate (paste) to 1 gal. of water
-          or
-          ½ oz. lead arsenate (dry) to 1 gal. of water
-
-This can also be obtained as a fine powder for dusting upon the plants.
-This method is less economical of material.
-
-                             _Paris Green_
-
-              ½ oz. Paris green    }
-              and                  }  to 3 gal. of water
-              1½ oz. lime          }
-
-When using Paris green as a powder it is advisable to dilute it with
-from twenty-five to fifty times its bulk of air-slaked lime. This acts
-as a carrier and renders it possible to distribute the poison more
-economically and effectively. It is inadvisable to use these poisons,
-Paris green and arsenate of lead, on heading cabbages or vegetables that
-are shortly to be eaten, as there is some danger of poisoning the
-consumers.
-
-                           _Pyrethrum Powder_
-
-                  1 oz. pyrethrum to 2 gal. of water
-
-Can also be applied as a powder. It is a good insecticide for use on
-vegetables that are shortly to be eaten, as there is no danger of
-poisoning human beings by its use. Can also be used as a contact spray.
-
-                           _Hellebore Powder_
-
-                  2 oz. hellebore to 1 gal. of water
-
-The hellebore should first be boiled in water and then diluted to make
-one gallon. It is very similar in its action to pyrethrum.
-
-
-                CONTACT INSECTICIDES FOR SUCKING INSECTS
-
-                            _Soap Solution_
-
-                  2 oz. laundry soap to 1 gal. of
-                  water
-
-                          _Nicotine Solution_
-
-              ½ oz. 40% nicotine   }
-              and                  }  to 3 gal. of water
-              1 oz. soap           }
-
-The soap is added to this solution to assist in spreading the mixture
-and to make it come in close contact with the insects.
-
-                         _Resin Fish-oil Soap_
-
-Is recommended by U. S. Department of Agriculture to be added to contact
-sprays and fungicides, to act as a “sticker” when they are to be used on
-crops with smooth leaves to which the spray will not stick.
-
-Use two ounces to three gallons of spray mixture.
-
-
-                        POISON BAIT FOR CUTWORMS
-
-                  3 lbs. wheat bran
-                  2 oz. white arsenic or powdered
-                    lead arsenate
-                  ½ pint cheap molasses
-
-Mix all together and add enough water to make a mash that will stick
-together. This is very poisonous and extreme care must be exercised in
-its use.
-
-
-
-
-                                  XII
-                             PLANT DISEASES
-
-
-Most of our vegetable crops are subject to attack by fungus or bacterial
-parasites which cause disease. Preventive measures are the most
-important in combating ills of this nature. These may consist of
-providing unfavorable soil conditions for the disease, as in the case of
-cabbage clubroot, or disinfection of the “seed” as practised for the
-control of scab of potatoes. Other measures are: the application of
-protective sprays, which kill the spores of disease organisms when they
-germinate; rotation of crops; planting disease-resistant varieties; and
-the avoidance of material carrying spores of disease, such as manure
-containing parts of diseased plants.
-
-_Bordeaux mixture_ is the standard fungicide. The formula which calls
-for four ounces lump lime, four ounces copper sulphate (bluestone) and
-three gallons of water is the one most commonly used.
-
-It is made by dissolving four ounces of bluestone in an earthenware or
-wooden vessel in one and one-half gallons of water. The lime is slaked
-in another vessel by adding water gradually until it forms a mixture of
-a milky consistency. Add more water to make one and one-half gallons and
-strain through cheese-cloth. After it has been strained it should be
-thoroughly mixed with the copper-sulphate solution and used immediately.
-Bordeaux mixture made in this way will not keep, but should be applied
-the same day. Stock solutions of copper sulphate and lime will keep
-indefinitely if they are not mixed together.
-
-_Liver of sulphur (potassium sulphide)_ is valuable for spraying plants
-affected with mildew. Use one ounce dissolved in three gallons of water.
-This solution discolors paint.
-
-The following are some of the common diseases affecting vegetable crops:
-
-Beans are attacked by _anthracnose_. It causes dark-colored, sunken
-spots to appear on the leaves, stems, and pods. It frequently penetrates
-to the seeds. Infected seeds should never be planted. It pays to look
-over all beans that are to be used for seed and destroy all that are
-discolored. Never work among the bean-plants when they are wet, as the
-disease, if it is present, is easily spread by this means.
-
-_Beets_ are subject to a _leaf-spot_. This causes small, round, dead
-spots to appear on the leaves. Bordeaux mixture applied as soon as the
-spots appear and at intervals of one or two weeks will check this
-disease.
-
-Cabbage.—_Clubroot_ is a disease which causes the roots of cabbage,
-cauliflower, kohlrabi, and allied plants to become swollen and deformed,
-and prevents them from functioning properly. If it is not noticed at
-transplanting-time the first indication of its presence is the sudden
-wilting of the plants. All affected plants should be destroyed. The
-seedbed and that part of the garden where the cabbages are to be planted
-should be limed two or three months before planting. Use between fifty
-and sixty pounds of air-slaked lime on a plot twenty by twenty feet, and
-thoroughly mix it with the soil.
-
-Corn.—_Corn smut_ usually appears as swellings, covered with a silvery
-membrane, on the tassels or ears. These break open later and disclose
-the masses of dark-colored spores. The swellings should be cut off and
-destroyed before they burst.
-
-Cucumber.—_Anthracnose, angular leafspot_, and _downy mildew_ are
-diseases attacking the leaves of cucumbers which can be controlled to
-some extent by frequent spraying with Bordeaux mixture. This should be
-applied as soon as the diseases are noticed and repeated at intervals of
-one or two weeks.
-
-Peas are affected by a _mildew_ which shows itself on the leaves and
-pods as a whitish mold. The plants should be dusted with powdered
-sulphur, or sprayed with potassium-sulphide solution to which resin
-fish-oil soap has been added to make it stick to the leaves.
-
-Potato.—Two important diseases affecting potatoes are _scab_ and _late
-blight_. The former is a disease which lives in the soil and is also
-carried over on infected potatoes. It shows itself as scabby spots on
-the tubers. Seed potatoes can be disinfected by soaking them, before
-they are cut, for two hours in a solution of one part Formalin to two
-hundred and forty parts water. This treatment will not prevent scab if
-the soil is already infected. An alkaline soil favors the growth of this
-disease.
-
-_Late blight_ appears late in the season and causes the leaves to
-blacken, become watery, and decay, often accompanied with an offensive
-odor. The disease also penetrates the tubers and renders them unfit for
-storage purposes. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture is practised as a
-preventive measure. It should be applied when the plants are six inches
-high, and repeated at intervals of about ten days until the crop is
-mature. Crops can be obtained without spraying, but Bordeaux mixture may
-be considered as a form of insurance. Lead arsenate may be added to the
-Bordeaux mixture if potato-beetles are present.
-
-Tomato.—_Tomato leaf-spot_ is a disease which causes dark-brown spots
-to appear on the leaves. The areas attacked shrivel and die. Spray with
-Bordeaux mixture.
-
-It is just as important to apply remedial or preventive measures early
-in the case of diseases as it is in controlling insect pests. Fine
-mist-like sprays should be used as recommended for applying stomach
-poisons, and for the same reason.
-
-
-
-
-                                  XIII
-                  THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES IN DETAIL
-
-
-This chapter is devoted to hints on the cultivation of the more
-important vegetables, together with some mention of varieties suited for
-“war-garden” planting.
-
-Artichoke, Jerusalem.—This has about the same food value as the potato,
-but, unfortunately, it is a rather tasteless product. Proper cooking,
-with the addition of sauces and condiments, will make it palatable. It
-is a tall, coarse-growing plant belonging to the sunflower family. If
-you have an out-of-the-way spot in your garden where nothing else will
-grow, try a few artichokes. It needs sunshine, but is not particular as
-to soil. It should be planted in the spring on ground that has had a
-dressing of barn-yard manure spaded in. Plant the tubers a foot apart in
-rows two feet apart. The plant is a perennial, and likely to become a
-troublesome weed unless restricted to one corner of the garden.
-
-Beans.—This group comprises some of the most important of garden
-vegetables.
-
-The various types of beans differ greatly in their requirements, and
-there is scarcely any kind of soil or climate that will support
-vegetation, where beans of one kind or another cannot be grown.
-
-Most of the beans are very susceptible to cold and must not be planted
-until the soil has warmed up and all danger of frost is past. There is
-one kind, however, belonging to a different genus than the common beans,
-which is not harmed by frost and which requires a long, cool season to
-develop properly. This is the broad, or Windsor, bean. A rich clay loam
-is best suited to this plant, and the seeds must be planted just as soon
-as the ground is in condition to be worked on in the spring. Plant them
-in rows two feet apart, and three inches apart in the rows.
-
-The ordinary garden beans can be divided into two groups—the pole
-beans, which can be subdivided into those of the string and Lima types;
-and the bush beans, comprising string-beans, green and wax podded,
-green-shell beans, dry-shell beans, and Limas.
-
-The pole beans, especially the Limas, are very susceptible to cold and
-cannot be planted outdoors in the vicinity of New York until toward the
-end of May, and not until June if it happens to be a cool season. They
-require a light, fertile soil for their best development. Seeds can be
-planted in hills three feet apart each way, placing three or four seeds
-in each hill. Poles must be provided for them to climb on and these
-should be in place before the seeds are planted. They can also be
-planted and trained on a trellis, as described in Chapter X.
-
-Bush beans of the string type are less affected by cold than the
-preceding, but are not very hardy in this respect. They may be planted
-as soon as danger of frost is past if the ground is not too cold and
-wet. The distance between the rows should be about eighteen inches, the
-plants standing from three to four inches apart in the rows. Bush beans
-will grow in a variety of soils ranging from those of a sandy nature to
-clay loams, but they grow best in sandy loam. Shell beans of the
-Improved Navy type (pea-beans) are especially adapted for planting in
-sandy soils.
-
-Bush Lima beans require the same kind of soil as the pole beans, and
-should be planted at the same time. Make the rows two feet apart, with
-the plants from six to nine inches apart in the row.
-
-The following are good varieties. Of the dwarf, wax-podded kinds
-_Rust-proof Golden Wax_ and _Burpee’s Kidney_ are desirable.
-
-_Bountiful_, a flat-podded type, and _Valentine_, a round-podded kind,
-are good examples of dwarf, green snap-beans.
-
-In the pole beans we have _Golden Carmine_ and _Golden Cluster_, both
-wax-pods, and _Kentucky Wonder_, an excellent, green snap-bean and also
-suitable for providing dry-shell beans.
-
-Of beans that are grown for their seeds the following may be noted:
-_Dwarf Horticultural_ (can also be used as a snap-bean), _Improved
-Navy_, and _White Marrow_.
-
-The Limas are represented by two forms, the dwarf and the climbing
-kinds. Good dwarf Limas are _Burpee’s Improved_, and _Fordhook_. For
-planting in the Northern states, _Leviathan_, which is a quick-maturing
-variety, is very suitable. This and _King of the Garden_, a very
-productive kind, are pole, or climbing, Limas.
-
-Beets are one of the hardy vegetables which can be planted as soon as
-the ground has been prepared in the spring. There are two distinct kinds
-of beets—those which have a globular or flat root, and those with a
-long, tapering root. The latter are of slower growth than the round
-kinds, and are very suitable for winter storage, but their cultivation
-should not be attempted unless the soil is deep and of a sandy nature.
-The globe beets are the best for the home gardener. For the first
-planting a quick-maturing kind, such as _Crosby’s Egyptian_, should be
-chosen. For later plantings _Detroit Dark Red_ is suitable, and this is
-a good variety to plant toward the end of June or early July to form
-roots suitable for winter storage. Beets can be planted in rows from
-twelve to eighteen inches apart. After the seedlings have reached a
-height of two or three inches they should be thinned out to stand four
-inches apart in the row. If desired, these thinnings may be taken up
-carefully, so as not to break the roots, and transplanted in another
-part of the garden. Another plan is to defer thinning until the plants
-are from four to six inches in height, and then use the thinnings as
-“greens.” Beets will grow in almost any soil, but the best crops are
-produced on sandy loams.
-
-Cabbage may be grown as an early crop, to mature around June or July, or
-as a late crop, to mature in the fall.
-
-The early crop is usually produced from seeds sown in a greenhouse or
-hotbed in February or early March, the young plants being set out in
-April. They require plenty of room for development and should be planted
-so as to stand from eighteen inches to two feet apart in the rows, the
-rows being two and one-half to three feet apart. _Early Jersey
-Wakefield_ is the variety commonly grown for an early crop.
-
-Seeds for the late crop can be sown in May. If sown outdoors, a plot of
-rich, sandy soil (a square yard will produce an ample supply of
-seedlings for most home gardens) should be chosen. If the plot has been
-limed a short time previous it is an advantage, as an alkaline soil
-lessens the liability to club root, a disease which prevents proper
-development of the cabbage. The resultant seedlings should be set out in
-July. As late cabbages are stronger growers and form larger heads than
-the early kinds, they should be given more room—three feet between the
-rows and two feet apart in the rows. A standard variety for late
-planting is _Flat Dutch_.
-
-Cabbages will succeed in a variety of soils, but to get best results
-heavy applications of decayed stable manure should be incorporated with
-the soil before planting. Surface dressings of nitrate of soda are also
-beneficial.
-
-Carrot.—This crop can be planted any time after the ground is in
-condition in the spring up to July, which is a suitable time to sow
-seeds for the crop designed for winter storage. The quick-maturing
-kinds, such as _Early Scarlet Horn_, should be sown first, choosing the
-warmest position in the garden. These will be ready for use in a short
-time, when they may be harvested and the ground used for another crop.
-For later crops _Danver’s Half-long_ may be used. Carrot seed should be
-sown in rows a foot or fifteen inches apart and one-half inch deep. The
-early varieties should be thinned to stand about two inches apart, while
-the main crop needs about four inches between each plant. Some people
-defer the thinning of their carrots until they are of sufficient size
-for the table. “Baby” carrots are one of the most delicious of
-vegetables when they are properly cooked, far preferable to the roots
-that have been allowed to mature. While this plan has great advantages,
-the carrots left behind do not attain so great a size as would be the
-case if thinning had been attended to earlier.
-
-A deep, well-cultivated soil is the best for this crop. In heavy soils
-that have not been deeply worked, the short-rooted kinds, such as
-_Ox-heart_, should be planted.
-
-Cauliflower.—The cultivation of cauliflower is substantially the same
-as that of cabbage. It is a cool-weather crop, and not much success is
-likely to be obtained if attempts are made to mature it during hot
-weather. For this reason it is either planted early, or as late as
-possible consistent with the prospects of maturing the crop. It requires
-a light, rich soil. When the heads begin to form, it is advisable to
-bend the outside leaves over and fasten them in such a way that the head
-is shaded from the sun. Cauliflower is emphatically not a crop for the
-novice.
-
-Celery.—There are two distinct kinds of celery—the so-called
-“self-blanching” varieties, and the green-leaf kinds. The former are the
-earliest to mature, but are not to be compared for flavor and tenderness
-with the latter.
-
-Seed of the early kinds, of which _White Plume_ is an example, is sown
-in February in a greenhouse or hotbed. The young plants should be
-transplanted once or twice, either in shallow boxes filled with earth or
-in the open ground, before the plants are set out where they are to
-mature, in May or June. Celery naturally forms a long “tap root” with
-few fibers. The object of the successive transplantings is to check this
-“tap root” and promote the formation of a mass of fibrous feeding-roots.
-The plants are placed in single or double rows thirty inches or three
-feet apart, and from four to six inches apart in the rows. When they
-attain sufficient size they are blanched by placing boards, a foot wide
-and as long as can conveniently be handled, on either side of the row.
-Other methods of blanching are by slipping a drain-pipe over each plant
-or by wrapping around them a collar made of stout paper and tying it in
-place with twine.
-
-Seed of late celery is sown about the same time as the early kinds, or a
-few weeks later, and the procedure is the same up until planting-time,
-which is early in July. Late celery is of stronger growth than the early
-varieties and needs more room for its development. The plants should be
-set in rows three and a half to four feet apart, and six inches apart in
-the rows. In some sections it is customary to dig a trench six inches or
-more deep and plant the celery in this. By this means watering is
-facilitated, and it is easier to blanch the celery later on. This method
-is not advisable when the good soil is shallow, as it results in the
-roots being placed in the infertile subsoil. Blanching of late celery is
-usually effected by mounding the stalks with earth dug from between the
-rows. Two persons can most advantageously perform this operation, one
-holding the stalks together so that the soil does not fall into the
-heart, the other mounding up the soil and patting it into position with
-the back of a spade.
-
-It is not worth while to attempt to grow celery unless a rich, moist
-soil is available.
-
-Good varieties of “self-blanching” celery are _White Plume_ and _Golden
-Self-blanching_. Among the best of the “green-leaf” kinds are _Giant
-Pascal_ and _Winter Queen_. The latter variety has a splendid flavor and
-keeps well into the winter.
-
-Chard.—One of the easiest to grow and most productive of the pot herbs
-is Swiss chard, “silver beet” or “leaf beet” as it is sometimes called.
-The seeds should be sown in rows about eighteen inches apart. When the
-plants are about four inches high they can be thinned so as to stand six
-inches apart and the thinnings used as “greens.” Later on alternate
-plants should be taken out, so that finally each plant is a foot away
-from the next. After this stage is arrived at the chard should be picked
-by pulling off the outside leaves.
-
-There are two varieties listed in the catalogues. One, _Lucullus_, has
-crumpled leaves and very broad, thick, white midribs. This is the
-variety that should be grown when it is desired to cook and serve the
-midribs separately, after the fashion of asparagus.
-
-Swiss chard is a form of beet which does not produce edible roots.
-Nitrate of soda, as recommended for kohlrabi, is an excellent fertilizer
-for this crop.
-
-Corn, the most delectable of all vegetables, should receive the
-attention of all home gardeners who have sufficient room and a fairly
-rich soil. This is a vegetable the flavor of which rapidly deteriorates
-after the ears have been removed from the plant; therefore the store
-article can never be as good as the home-grown kind.
-
-The hill and drill methods of planting each have their vehement
-advocates. Good crops can be obtained either way, but the drill method
-is probably best for the small garden. The seeds are planted in drills
-two inches deep, dropping two or three seeds at every foot. When they
-germinate, all but the strongest plant should be pulled up from each
-group. The rows can be two and a half feet apart for the small-growing
-kinds like _Golden Bantam_, and three feet for the larger varieties such
-as _Stowell’s Evergreen_.
-
-When the hill system of cultivation is adopted, five or six seeds are
-planted in spaces two and a half or three feet apart each way. The young
-plants are thinned out to stand three or four to a hill.
-
-Corn needs to be frequently hoed to get best results.
-
-Several methods may be adopted in order to insure a succession of corn
-for the table. A quick-maturing variety may be planted at intervals of
-three weeks up to the middle of July, or, early, midseason, and late
-varieties may be planted at the same time in May or June.
-
-The removal of the side shoots which appear in the axils of the leaves
-at the base of the plant should be attended to. This is known as
-“suckering.” It causes the vigor of the plant to be concentrated in the
-production of ears instead of being frittered away on side shoots or
-“suckers” which will never amount to anything.
-
-Corn should not be planted until the soil has warmed up and danger of
-frost is past. It is permissible, however, to take a chance with a few
-rows by sowing early, in the hope that they will come through all
-right—say about the end of April or beginning of May in those sections
-which possess a climate similar to that of New York.
-
-Cucumbers are a crop that requires a fair amount of room for proper
-development. They should be planted in hills five feet apart each way,
-with four or five plants in each hill; or in rows five feet apart, with
-the plants standing about one foot apart in the rows. The seeds should
-not be planted outdoors until all danger of frost is past. An early crop
-can be obtained by raising the plants in a greenhouse by sowing the
-seeds early in berry-boxes and transplanting outdoors when the weather
-is warm enough. It is a good plan, when planting outdoors, to sow the
-seeds rather thickly, about ten seeds to a hill, so as to get a good
-stand and lessen the risk of losing the plants by insect attacks.
-
-The soil most suitable for cucumbers is a sandy loam that has been well
-enriched with decayed stable manure. They will succeed admirably on
-newly broken sod land.
-
-The best cucumbers for outdoor planting are those belonging to the
-“white spine” type, of which _Davis Perfect_ is a good example. For
-supplying small cucumbers for pickling, _Fordhook Pickling_ is one of
-the best varieties to grow.
-
-Egg-plant is a tropical plant which will not mature its fruits in the
-Northern states unless its season of growth is lengthened by starting
-the plants in a greenhouse or hotbed. It is very susceptible to cold and
-it is scarcely safe to set the young plants outdoors until June in the
-latitude of New York. Egg-plant requires a sunny position and a warm,
-light, fertile soil. It can be planted in rows two and a half to three
-feet apart, two feet being allowed between the plants in the rows.
-_Black Beauty_ is a standard variety. _Early Long Purple_ is a
-quick-maturing kind.
-
-Kale.—The cultivation of kale is practically that of late cabbage. It
-is an extremely hardy vegetable and will stand a great deal of frost.
-
-Kohlrabi is another member of the cabbage group. It is desirable to
-mature it quickly, as slow-grown plants are woody and inedible. This
-quick growth is effected by planting in rich soil and by giving
-top-dressings of nitrate of soda at the rate of one ounce to ten feet of
-row. The swollen stems should be eaten when they are about two inches in
-diameter. _Early Vienna_, either white or purple top, is a good variety.
-The seeds may be sown in the spring just as soon as the ground can be
-worked, in rows from fifteen to eighteen inches apart. When the young
-plants are large enough they are thinned to stand six inches apart in
-the rows; if so desired, the thinnings may be used as “greens.”
-
-Lettuce, the most important salad crop, requires a rich, sandy soil. It
-is seldom that it will “head” properly in city backyards, because of
-unsuitable soil and other adverse conditions. Lettuce is a cool-weather
-crop, and during the hot days of summer the greatest difficulty is
-experienced in growing it. There are several different types. The
-loose-leaf kinds, those that do not form a head, are the easiest to
-grow. The other forms are the Romaine, or Cos, which makes a columnar
-head, and the ordinary kind, or cabbage lettuce.
-
-The seeds should be planted shallowly in rows a foot or eighteen inches
-apart, and afterward the young plants must be thinned to stand ten or
-twelve inches apart in the row. A row twenty feet long is enough to
-plant at one sowing. Other plantings should be made at intervals of two
-or three weeks, so as to provide a succession. During hot weather the
-plants are benefited by being shaded with cheese-cloth screens. These
-can be conveniently made by tacking cheese-cloth on lath frames of
-suitable size, which should be supported on stakes driven into the
-ground.
-
-Quick growth is essential to obtain crisp, well-flavored lettuce. This
-can partially be brought about by the use of nitrate of soda, as
-recommended for kohlrabi. Avoid getting any of the nitrate on the leaves
-of the plants, as it will burn them.
-
-Good varieties of lettuce are _May King_ and _Hanson_, belonging to the
-cabbage-head type; _Grand Rapids_, a loose-leaf variety; and _Paris
-White Cos_.
-
-In cities sparrows are frequently troublesome to growers of lettuce, as
-they are fond of picking off the leaves of the young plants. Protection
-is effected by stretching several strands of strong thread a few inches
-above the rows. The sparrows become very suspicious of an arrangement of
-this kind, and it is usually efficacious in keeping them away from the
-plants.
-
-Muskmelon.—The cultivation of this crop is very much like that of
-cucumber. Muskmelons are rather more susceptible to cold than the
-latter, and in consequence the soil and air must be warm before they are
-planted. The soil must be well drained or they will not succeed. When
-they have to be planted on land that is cold and poorly drained it is a
-good plan to plant them on ridges or mounds, about two feet across,
-raised six inches or so above the general level. This assists the soil
-in warming up and insures better drainage. A layer of decayed manure
-about three inches thick, buried in the hills where the plants are to
-grow, greatly helps this crop and others of a similar nature, such as
-cucumbers, squash, and pumpkin. Frequent cultivation of the surface soil
-is necessary to stimulate growth, keep down weeds, and conserve
-moisture, when the plants are young. Good varieties of muskmelon are
-_Emerald Gem_, a small or salmon-fleshed form, and _Rocky Ford_ and
-_Hackensack_, which are of medium size with green flesh.
-
-Okra.—The cultivation of okra is very similar to that of corn, although
-otherwise they have nothing else in common. It succeeds best in a sandy,
-well-fertilized loam.
-
-Onion.—There are two ways of producing a crop of onions—from “sets”
-and from seed. “Sets” are small onions produced by sowing seed very
-thickly in rather poor soil and allowing the plants to mature as they
-stand. This results in a crop of small bulbs which are stored over the
-winter and sold the following spring as onion “sets.” There are two
-methods of raising onions from seed. The plants may be obtained by
-sowing the seed in a greenhouse in February, transplanting the seedlings
-to the open ground in April. The procedure most commonly followed,
-however, is to plant the seeds in rows a foot apart, in the position
-where they are to mature, as early as possible in the spring. When the
-young plants appear they are thinned to four inches apart. If the
-seedlings are left until they are the thickness of a lead-pencil they
-may be pulled and used as a salad in the form of bunch onions.
-
-A crop can be produced earlier by the use of “sets.” These are planted
-in furrows two inches deep, spacing them two inches apart. The soil is
-then drawn over them and firmed. After some growth has been made,
-alternate plants may be pulled out and used as salad, leaving the
-remainder to mature.
-
-Thorough preparation of the soil is essential to achieve success in
-growing onions. It should be dug up as deeply as possible, thoroughly
-pulverized, and afterward compacted by rolling with a garden roller or
-by tramping. Onions succeed best on soil which is fairly retentive of
-moisture and rich in nitrogen. Top-dressings of hen or sheep manure, or
-of nitrate of soda, are beneficial to this crop. Remember what has been
-said previously with regard to taking care not to apply too much of any
-of these fertilizers. Weeding is a very important operation in
-connection with onion-growing, and some of it, when the weeds are close
-to or in the rows, has to be done by hand. If the weeds are allowed to
-obtain a headway the crop will suffer greatly in consequence.
-
-In wet seasons, and when planted in rich, retentive soils, the bulbs
-sometimes fail to mature at the proper time. When they show signs of
-growing too late in the fall, it is customary to go over the plot and
-break over the tops. This can be done by dragging a board over the
-onion-bed, or, if the plot is a small one, it may be done by hand. This
-process arrests growth and causes the bulbs to mature so that they are
-suitable for winter storage. Immature bulbs will not keep properly.
-
-Standard varieties of onion are _Yellow Danvers_ and _Southport Globe_,
-which can be obtained in red, white, and yellow forms. _Prize-taker_ is
-a very large, mild onion which succeeds best when started in a
-greenhouse.
-
-Parsley succeeds best in a clay loam soil that has been well fertilized
-with stable manure. The seeds are slow to germinate and it is frequently
-four or five weeks before the young plants show themselves above the
-ground. Growth may be hastened by soaking the seeds in tepid water for
-twenty-four hours before sowing them. They should be planted in rows a
-foot apart and the young plants thinned to stand six inches apart.
-_Champion Moss Curled_ is a good variety.
-
-Parsnip.—A long season is required for the development of large roots.
-The seeds should be sown in April in rows from fifteen to eighteen
-inches apart, afterward thinning the seedlings so that they stand six
-inches apart. The seeds are slow in germinating and it is a good plan to
-sow a few seeds of radish in the drill with them. The radishes germinate
-quickly and serve to break the surface crust and to mark the row so that
-cultivation may be performed close to the row without disturbing the
-parsnip seeds. The radishes are mature and can be pulled and used for
-the table by the time the parsnips have appeared above the ground.
-
-A deep, loamy soil is most suited for the production of parsnips. In a
-shallow soil the roots are likely to be stunted and misshapen. The
-following method of producing extra-large and well-shaped roots is
-sometimes used by exhibitors of vegetables. Holes about two feet deep
-and three inches in diameter at the top are made in the ground with a
-crowbar at intervals of about nine inches. These holes are filled with
-sifted fertile earth, and three or four seeds planted in each. When the
-seedlings appear, all but the strongest are pulled out. This method is
-only to be recommended when it is desired to walk off with the prize for
-the best parsnips at the county fair or the town vegetable show. _Hollow
-Crown_ is a good variety.
-
-Peas are essentially a cool-weather crop, and they especially resent
-hot, dry conditions at the root. For this reason the seeds should be
-planted just as soon as the ground is workable in the spring. The dwarf
-varieties can be planted in double rows about six inches apart, leaving
-a space of eighteen inches or two feet between each double row. The tall
-varieties, which need support of some kind, may be planted in the same
-way, but a space varying from three to five feet must be allowed between
-the rows, according to the height of the variety planted. The taller the
-variety, the greater is the necessity for ample space between the rows.
-
-It is said to be possible to produce a crop of peas in the fall by
-sowing the seeds in August, but the writer has never seen much success
-attained with a crop at this season; at any rate, not in the vicinity of
-New York. For a late crop of peas it is advisable to dig a trench from
-six to eight inches deep and sow the seeds in this, covering them with
-two inches of soil, as usual. Water them thoroughly if the weather is
-dry. As the plants grow the earth should be gradually drawn into the
-trench until it is filled up to the surrounding level. This system is
-adopted so that the roots may be well down in the earth and thus
-protected from the hot rays of the sun. This is also a good method to
-adopt for late spring plantings of peas.
-
-A fairly fertile, loamy soil, well drained, but of a retentive nature,
-is most suited to peas.
-
-_First of All_, thirty inches high, is a good variety of the
-smooth-seeded type of pea. This type does not possess such a good flavor
-as the wrinkled-seeded kinds, but the seeds are not likely to rot if
-planted in cold, wet soil. _Nott’s Excelsior_ is an excellent dwarf
-variety of the wrinkled-seed type. Of the tall kinds, _Alderman_, five
-feet in height, _Gradus_, thirty inches, and _Champion of England_, five
-feet, are to be recommended.
-
-Peppers require very much the same conditions as tomatoes and egg-plant,
-except that they may be planted somewhat closer together. The rows
-should be from eighteen inches to two feet apart, with the plants spaced
-from one to two feet apart in the rows. _Bull Nose_ and _Chinese Giant_
-are good examples of the mild, sweet kinds, with _Golden Queen_ to give
-color variation in the salad made from them. _Long Red Cayenne_ and _Red
-Chili_ should be chosen if the peppery varieties are desired.
-
-Potato.—The largest crops of potatoes are produced in cool, moist,
-climates such as are found in Great Britain, parts of Europe, and, in
-the United States, in Maine and Michigan.
-
-The soils best suited for potatoes are fertile, rather sandy loams which
-should be fairly retentive of moisture. A soil of this nature which has
-been heavily fertilized with barn-yard manure the preceding year may be
-considered ideal for potato culture. The use of barn-yard manure,
-particularly if it is fresh, is inadvisable if the soil contains a good
-proportion of humus and is in good physical condition. It is claimed
-that the practice of using barn-yard manure the current season causes
-the crop to be more susceptible to attacks of potato scab. Many of the
-largest growers of potatoes refrain from fertilizing directly with
-barn-yard manure, but rely instead on the use of commercial fertilizers.
-These may be applied broadcast over the field in the spring, after the
-soil has been plowed, and harrowed in. If only a small quantity of
-fertilizer is available, it is preferable to apply it by spreading it in
-the furrows, but thoroughly mixing it in the soil before the potatoes
-are planted. The fertilizer obtainable from most seedsmen under the name
-of “potato manure” can safely be used in the furrows at the rate of five
-pounds to a plot of four hundred square feet.
-
-“Seed” potatoes should consist of medium-sized tubers, Northern grown,
-and free from disease. Although whole potatoes may be planted, the usual
-practice is to cut them into pieces, each piece containing two or three
-“eyes,” or buds. When cutting the potatoes for sets make each piece as
-“chunky” as possible so that there is a good-sized piece of potato for
-the “eyes” to draw upon for their food supply until they have formed a
-root system of their own.
-
-There are two methods of planting potatoes—in hills and in furrows or
-rows. In the hill system of planting, the plants are spaced from two to
-three feet apart either way, the distance being dependent on the vigor
-of the variety. When planted in furrows the rows are spaced from two to
-three feet apart and the sets placed from twelve to eighteen inches
-apart in the rows. The early varieties may be planted about four inches
-deep, and the late varieties about six inches.
-
-When the shoots appear above the ground the surface soil should be
-cultivated to conserve moisture and to keep down weeds. Later in the
-season when the tubers are being formed it is customary to hill them up
-with earth so as to cover the tubers and prevent “greening,” and also to
-assist in keeping the roots cool.
-
-The potato is particularly susceptible to environmental conditions. A
-variety that may be an excellent cropper in one section may be an utter
-failure in another. It is thus difficult to recommend any particular
-variety. The best plan for those who are to attempt the cultivation of
-potatoes is to make inquiry in the neighborhood with a view to finding
-the variety that is most successful in that locality.
-
-The following are standard varieties that are widely grown: early
-varieties—_Irish Cobbler_, _Early Rose_, _Early Ohio_; main-crop
-varieties—_Carman No. 1_, _Green Mountain_, and _Rural New-Yorker_.
-
-Pumpkins will succeed under practically the same conditions as outlined
-for cucumber and melon. They are also subject to the same insect pests.
-This crop is frequently grown in the corn-patch, in hills about eight
-feet apart each way, planting five or six seeds to a hill.
-
-Radishes are only palatable when they have been grown very quickly. If
-they are slow in coming to maturity the product is pithy and worthless.
-
-A light, rich soil is most suited to the production of radishes. The
-seeds should be sown in rows nine inches or a foot apart and the
-seedlings thinned to about two inches. It does not pay to transplant
-radishes. Five or six feet of row is sufficient to plant at one time,
-securing a succession by planting other batches at intervals of about
-ten days. Radishes are usually not in great demand during the summer
-months, as the home grower has been surfeited by his spring crop. Those
-who are so fond of radishes that they want them throughout the whole
-season should plant _White Strasburg_ or _Icicle_ to mature during the
-hot weather, and _Cardinal Globe_, _Round Red Forcing_, or _French
-Breakfast_ for an early crop.
-
-_Winter radishes_, which form very large roots and may be stored by the
-same methods adopted for beets and carrots, are usually sown about the
-end of July or beginning of August. They need more space in which to
-mature—about eighteen inches between the rows and six inches in the
-rows.
-
-Rutabaga.—See Turnip.
-
-Salsify or _Vegetable Oyster_ is a vegetable that is coming into more
-general use. Seeds are sown early in the spring on deeply broken ground
-in rows fifteen inches apart, and the plants thinned to three inches.
-The roots are dug in the fall and stored like beets, or they may be left
-in the ground and dug when required for use, if the weather permits.
-
-Spinach is a cool-weather crop that requires a light soil heavily
-manured with decayed stable manure for best results. The seeds should be
-planted in very early spring or in September, in rows fifteen inches
-apart, and the plants thinned to stand four inches apart. Nitrate of
-soda as recommended for kohlrabi is good for this crop.
-
-Spinach (New Zealand).—Although called spinach, this is an entirely
-different plant and belongs to another family. It luxuriates during hot
-weather and will supply the table plentifully with “greens” throughout
-the summer. Seeds should be planted during April or May in rows two feet
-apart, the plants later being thinned to one foot. When the plants
-attain a foot in height picking may begin, using the tender shoot-tips,
-or leaves, as required. The thinnings, of course, are also available for
-cooking.
-
-Squash.—Cultivate the same as cucumber. The bush varieties should be
-planted four feet apart each way, and the vining kinds from six to eight
-feet.
-
-There are several different types of squash. The summer kinds are
-represented by the _Pattypan_ and _Crookneck_ types, and the winter
-varieties by the _Hubbard_.
-
-They are subject to much the same insect pests and diseases as the
-cucumber and muskmelon.
-
-Sweet Potatoes are not very well adapted for Northern gardens, although
-they are grown to a considerable extent in parts of New Jersey.
-
-They succeed best in a rich, sandy soil. The “sets” are usually planted
-on slightly raised, broad ridges about four feet apart. They are spaced
-from twelve to eighteen inches apart along the ridges.
-
-The production of “sets” is usually effected by placing small potatoes
-in a hotbed and covering them with sand. This causes them to sprout, and
-when the shoots are six or eight inches in length they are pulled off
-with roots attached and planted as described.
-
-_Yellow Jersey_ is a good variety for Northern planting.
-
-Swiss Chard.—See under Chard.
-
-Tomato.—This plant adapts itself to a great variety of soils, and will
-succeed almost anywhere if it receives warmth and sunshine.
-
-It is seldom worth while for any one without greenhouse facilities,
-unless he wishes to have the experience, to raise tomatoes from seed.
-Young plants can be obtained at a low cost at planting-time from
-seedsmen who have every convenience for raising them cheaply.
-
-The distance apart between the plants when they are set out in the
-garden depends on the method of training adopted. The truck farmers and
-market gardeners seldom go to the trouble of staking their plants. They
-are simply set out in the field three or four feet apart each way and
-allowed to grow naturally. This results in the spoiling of some of the
-fruit through coming in contact with the soil.
-
-The home gardener can usually afford the time and trouble required to
-stake his tomatoes, and receives his reward in the shape of more fruit
-of better quality.
-
-One method of training is to set out the plants a foot apart in rows
-three feet apart. If this scheme is adopted each plant must be supplied
-with a stout stake to which it is tied, and the plant must be restricted
-to a single stem. This last is effected by pinching out the side shoots
-with thumb and finger as soon as they are formed. Avoid taking off the
-flowering shoots or you will have no fruit.
-
-Another method is to set the plants three feet by two feet, and support
-them as described in Chapter X. In this case it is advisable to prune
-out the thin, spindly shoots which frequently congregate in the centers
-of the plants. This causes the vigor of the plant to be concentrated in
-the strong, fruiting shoots, admits light and air, resulting in better
-ripened tomatoes.
-
-They can also be trained on the south side of the house, supporting them
-with tape or cloth passed around the shoots and fastened to the wall
-with tacks.
-
-Favorite tomatoes are _Chalk’s Early Jewel_ for an early crop, _Stone_
-and _Ponderosa_ for main crop. In small gardens _Dwarf Stone_ can be
-used to advantage.
-
-Turnip is a hardy crop well suited for early spring or late fall
-cultivation. For the early crop such varieties as _Snowball_ or _Early
-White Milan_ should be planted. The seed may be sown as soon as the
-ground is prepared in the spring, in rows a foot apart. When they are
-large enough the young plants must be thinned out to stand about four
-inches apart.
-
-_Yellow Globe_, _Golden Ball_, or the white strap-leaf kinds may be sown
-for fall use. They are cultivated in the same way as the preceding
-except that the seeds are sown in July or August.
-
-_Rutabaga turnips_ grow much larger than the preceding, require more
-room, and a longer period for development. They can be sown in May or
-June in rows two feet apart, and the young plants thinned out to stand
-about ten inches apart in the rows. Treated in this way, they will form
-large roots suitable for winter storage.
-
-Turnips succeed best in a loamy soil in which there has been
-incorporated a liberal supply of well-decayed stable manure.
-
-Watermelon.—These plants succeed under much the same conditions, and
-need the same treatment as muskmelon. They are rampant growers and the
-hills should be spaced about eight feet apart each way. They are,
-therefore, not adapted for cultivation in very small gardens.
-
-The striped cucumber-beetle is also partial to watermelon.
-
-For planting in Northern gardens, quick-maturing varieties such as
-_Cole’s Early_ and _Fordhook_ should be planted.
-
-
-
-
-                                  XIV
-                         HARVESTING AND STORING
-
-
-The flavor and tenderness of many vegetables depend in a large measure
-on their being harvested at the proper time. The picking of string-beans
-should be early, constant, and methodical, partly because old beans are
-stringy and unpalatable and partly because, if picking is neglected and
-the plants allowed to form seed, production ceases. Peas should always
-be picked just as soon as the pods are well filled, before the seeds
-commence to harden. Their flavor deteriorates if they are picked more
-than an hour or two before they are needed for the table. The same
-remarks apply to sweet corn. There is an old saying that “the pot should
-be boiling before the ears are picked from the plant.”
-
-Great care should be taken in harvesting beets. If the roots are bruised
-or broken, or if the leaves are cut off too close to the root, the color
-of the beets, one of their greatest attractions, will be lost in
-cooking. The crispness of salad plants—celery, lettuce, radish, and
-onion—is enhanced if they are gathered early in the morning and stood
-in water in a shady, cool place until they are required for use. Such
-crops as Brussells sprouts, kale, celery, and parsnips are considered to
-be improved in flavor after they have been slightly frozen. The fruits
-of tomato, watermelon, and muskmelon should be allowed to ripen on the
-plants. Muskmelons are ripe when the fruit parts readily from the stem
-on being lifted in the hand.
-
-Proper harvesting is a prime necessity if vegetables are to be
-successfully stored for winter use. Bruised, broken or diseased
-vegetables should always be rejected, as decay is almost certain to take
-place when they are stored, and this is likely to spread to the sound
-vegetables.
-
-A cellar with an earthen floor, well ventilated and frost-proof, in
-which a temperature of from 40° to 45° Fahr. can be maintained, forms a
-splendid storage-place for potatoes, the majority of the root crops, and
-some of the leaf vegetables. If there is a furnace in the cellar which
-raises the temperature too much, the coolness required may be obtained
-by partitioning off part of the cellar, preferably in a corner
-containing a window, so that ventilation may be secured.
-
-Quite a number of vegetables can be successfully stored in the open by
-burying them in pits or trenches and covering with straw, salt hay, and
-earth. Some of the disadvantages of this method are the inaccessibility
-of the vegetables when the weather is severe, and the difficulty of
-looking them over occasionally so that diseased and decayed specimens
-may be removed. When storing vegetables in this way it is important that
-the whole of the covering should not be put on at one time, as this
-endangers the whole pile of vegetables through the possibility of
-heating.
-
-
-                     _Root, Tuber, and Bulb Crops_
-
-Artichoke (Jerusalem).—The tubers of this plant are unaffected by frost
-and may be allowed to remain in the ground all winter. In those sections
-where the frost penetrates the ground deeply a supply sufficient for use
-during the winter should be dug in the fall and stored in sand in a cool
-cellar.
-
-Parsnip, Horseradish, and Salsify may be treated in the same way as the
-preceding.
-
-Beets should be carefully dug up after the first frost and handled
-gently to avoid breaking or bruising them. Cut off the leaves about an
-inch above the roots and pack them with moist sand or earth in boxes in
-a cool cellar. Covering the roots in this way maintains their freshness
-and prevents shriveling.
-
-Carrots.—In the fall large numbers of fibrous roots are produced on the
-sides of the large tap-root. These roots spoil the symmetry of the
-carrots and impair their flavor. The crop should therefore be harvested
-before these fibrous roots form. Observation of the roots is the only
-way of determining the proper time to dig them up. In other respects
-they are stored the same as beets.
-
-Potatoes for winter use should be dug on a dry day as soon as possible
-after the tops have died down. Leave them lying on the surface of the
-ground for a few hours, so that they may dry properly. (It is
-inadvisable to allow them to be exposed to the light for too long a
-period, as it will cause the tubers to become green and unfit for use.)
-They can then be gathered up and placed in boxes or barrels in a cool,
-frost-proof cellar, but not exposed to the light. All diseased or
-injured tubers should be laid aside for immediate use, provided they are
-not too far gone, in which case they may be boiled and fed to pigs or
-chickens, or destroyed by burning, so as to avoid the possibility of
-spreading disease.
-
-Potatoes may also be stored outdoors in sections where the winters are
-not too severe. A high-lying sandy piece of ground should be chosen on
-which to make the “pit.” Dig out the soil for a depth of about six
-inches and line the excavation with three inches of straw. Place the
-potatoes in a pile on this and cover with a similar thickness of straw
-or hay. Place over this a layer of earth three inches thick to prevent
-the straw from blowing away. Gradually increase the covering as the
-weather becomes more severe, until a thickness of a foot or eighteen
-inches is reached. A layer of manure over this is advisable in very cold
-climates. If the pile is a large one it is important that ventilation
-should be provided for. This may be accomplished by sticking a stovepipe
-into the center of the pile and allowing the top to project above the
-covering of earth, or by allowing a tuft of the straw that forms the
-first covering to extend in the same manner. This vent-hole must be
-covered with a board, a piece of oilcloth, or something similar to
-prevent rain from entering.
-
-Other vegetables that may be stored in this way are _beets, carrots,
-turnips, salsify_, and _parsnips_.
-
-Rutabagas and Turnips require to be dug up before severe frost. They can
-be stored the same way as potatoes.
-
-Sweet Potatoes are very difficult to store over the winter. The loss
-through decay in storage is enormous every year, even though proper
-facilities are obtainable. They need a warm, dry room and a constant
-temperature. The less they are handled after being stored the better.
-The best advice for those who have raised a crop of this vegetable is to
-avoid loss by eating them as quickly as possible.
-
-Onions should be properly “cured” before they are stored. This is
-accomplished by harvesting them during dry, settled weather, and
-allowing them to lie in windrows two or three days before bringing them
-indoors. They should then be placed in a cool, airy room in slatted
-crates, so that air has free access to them. If wet weather is prevalent
-at harvesting-time they may be “cured” by placing them in a single layer
-under cover until they are thoroughly dry. The dead leaves and loose
-scales should be pulled off before storing them.
-
-
-                              _Leaf Crops_
-
-Cabbages can be stored by digging them up with some soil attached to the
-roots, and packing them close together on the floor of a cool cellar.
-Treated in this way, they are a rather “smelly” vegetable, and, unless
-the cellar is tightly shut off from the rest of the house, likely to
-cause some unpleasantness. They can be stored outside in the way
-recommended for potatoes by placing them head downward in a trench or
-pit.
-
-Cauliflower.—It is possible to preserve cauliflower, for a short time
-only, by digging them with roots attached and suspending them head
-downward in a cool, moist cellar.
-
-Celery can be dug in the fall and packed closely in boxes in an upright
-position in a cool cellar. The more roots and soil adhering to the
-plants the better the chance of success. When the soil dries out it must
-be watered, but be very careful not to get any water on the leaves or
-leaf-stalks. Another way of caring for celery is to dig a trench deep
-enough to accommodate the plants when they are placed upright. Pack them
-as tightly as possible in this and cover with boards to keep out rain.
-In severe weather it will be necessary to put on an additional covering
-of straw and earth.
-
-Parsley.—In sections where the winter is not too severe parsley may be
-kept green through the greater part of the winter by covering the patch
-with a bottomless box, with a pane of glass for covering the top. The
-box should be banked with manure or leaves, and the glass covered with
-straw in very cold weather. Parsley can also be dug up, placed in
-plant-pots, making the soil firm about the roots, and kept in a cool,
-sunny room.
-
-
-                         _Seed or Fruit Crops_
-
-Beans.—Dry-shell beans should be allowed to stay on the plants until
-the pods dry up and become yellow. They may then be gathered, and
-shelled when convenient. If they are infested with weevils they should
-be dry baked in a temperature of about 145° Fahr. Care must be taken not
-to allow the temperature to rise above this figure, or the beans will be
-roasted and spoiled. Fumigating with carbon disulphide is also an
-efficacious expedient, but somewhat dangerous because of the explosive
-properties of the fumigant.
-
-Pumpkin and Winter Squash can be stored in a warm, dry room. It is
-advisable to turn over the fruits selected for storing two weeks or so
-before they are harvested, so that the side that has been lying on the
-ground may have its rind hardened by exposure to sun and air.
-
-                 *        *        *        *        *
-
-Although concerned primarily with “war gardens,” the methods advocated
-can be used by all vegetable growers who practise intensive cultivation.
-The fundamental principles of soil management also apply equally to
-flower-gardens.
-
-The writer has found in his experience that good crops can be raised, on
-what would be usually considered poor soil, by men and women who know
-little of horticultural practices. Larger crops could have been produced
-had they known more of the art of growing vegetables. It is to help such
-people that this book has been written, from information gained during
-twenty years of professional experience.
-
-It is the earnest hope of the author that the crops raised by “war
-gardeners” will be of such a size as to cause this last chapter to be
-the one that is most consulted.
-
-
-
-
-                                APPENDIX
-
-
-                                Table I
-
-Approximate quantities of vegetables obtainable from a row fifty feet
-long. This table is based on actual yields obtained from a plot of
-moderate fertility by using standard varieties of vegetables.
-
-             Beets                 40  bunches (5 in a
-                                        bunch)
-             Bush beans (pods)     27  quarts
-             Cabbage               25  heads
-             Carrots               45  pounds
-             Cauliflower           25  heads
-             Corn                 100  ears
-             Egg-plant            100  fruits
-             Lettuce               50  heads
-             Onions                20  pounds
-             Parsnips              40  pounds
-             Peas (pods)           20  quarts
-             Potatoes               5  pecks
-             Tomatoes             240  pounds
-
-
-                                Table II
-
-Approximate number of days from seed-sowing to first picking of crops.
-Variation is caused by temperature and character of variety—early,
-midseason, or late.
-
-               Beans (bush)            45 to    65 days
-               Beans (pole)            60  ”    80   ”
-               Beets                   60  ”    80   ”
-               Cabbage (early)         95  ”   120   ”
-               Cabbage (late)         100  ”   130   ”
-               Carrots                 75  ”   110   ”
-               Cauliflower            100  ”   130   ”
-               Celery                 125  ”   150   ”
-               [5]Chard                60  ”    80   ”
-               Corn (sweet)            60  ”   100   ”
-               [5]Cucumber             60  ”    80   ”
-               [5]Egg-plant           125  ”   160   ”
-               Kale                   100  ”   120   ”
-               Kohlrabi                60  ”    80   ”
-               Lettuce                 65  ”   100   ”
-               [5]Muskmelon           115  ”   140   ”
-               [5]Okra                 90  ”   100   ”
-               [5]Onion (seed)        130  ”   150   ”
-               [5]Onion (sets)         90  ”   120   ”
-                     If “sets” are planted for use as
-                       bunch onions they are ready in
-                       about 40 days.
-               [5]Parsley              90 to   100 days
-               Parsnips               125  ”   150   ”
-               Peas                    45  ”    80   ”
-               [5]Peppers             120  ”   150   ”
-               Potato (Irish)          80  ”   140   ”
-               Potato (sweet)         100  ”   130   ”
-               Pumpkin                100  ”   130   ”
-               Radish                  25  ”    50   ”
-               Salsify                125  ”   150   ”
-               Spinach                 30  ”    60   ”
-               [5]Spinach New Zealand  60  ”    70   ”
-               [5]Squash (summer)      60  ”    80   ”
-               Squash (winter)        125  ”   130   ”
-               [5]Tomato              100  ”   125   ”
-               Turnip                  60  ”    80   ”
-
-[5] Continue to bear until frost.
-
-
-                               Table III
-
-Showing the correct depth to plant seeds and the amount of space
-required by the plants in and between rows.
-
-                       Depth to     Distance        Distance between
-                        plant     between rows     plants in the rows
-Bean (pole)             2 in.        3-4 ft.     3-4 ft. if in hills, 9
-                                                    ins. if in rows.
-Bean (dwarf)            2 in.       15-18 in.           3-6 in.
-Bean (dwarf Lima)       2 in.       2-2½ ft.            6-10 in.
-Beet                    1 in.       15-18 in.            4 in.
-Cabbage (early)         ¼ in.        2-3 ft.            1½-2 ft.
-Cabbage (late)          ¼ in.         3 ft.              2 ft.
-Carrot                  ½ in.       15-18 in.            4 in.
-Celery                 1/8 in.      2½-5 ft.            4-6 in.
-Chard                   1 in.       15-18 in.           6-12 in.
-Corn                    2 in.       2½-3 ft.     2½-3 ft. if in hills,
-                                                   1 ft. if in rows.
-Cucumber                1 in.        4-5 ft.             15 in.
-Egg-plant               ¼ in.       2½-3 ft.             2 ft.
-Kale                    ¼ in.       18-24 in.           8-10 in.
-Kohlrabi                ¼ in.       15-18 in.            6 in.
-Lettuce                 ¼ in.         1 ft.             9-12 in.
-Muskmelon               1 in.         6 ft.              18 in.
-Okra                    1 in.         3 ft.              2 ft.
-Onion (seed)            1 in.         1 ft.              4 in.
-Onion (sets)            2 in.         1 ft.              2 in.
-Parsley                 ½ in.         1 ft.             6-9 in.
-Parsnip                 1 in.       15-18 in.            6 in.
-Peas (dwarf)            2 in.       18-24 in.            2 in.
-Peas (tall)             2 in.        4-6 ft.             3 in.
-Peppers                 ¼ in.         2 ft.            12-18 in.
-Potato                 4-6 in.      2½-3 ft.           12-18 in.
-Radish                  ½ in.       9-12 in.             2 in.
-Salsify                 1 in.       15-18 in.            2 in.
-Spinach                 1 in.       12-15 in.            4 in.
-Spinach New Zealand     1 in.         2 ft.              1 ft.
-Squash (bush)           1 in.        3-4 ft.            3-4 ft.
-Squash (vine)            1 in       7-10 ft.            7-10 ft.
-Swiss Chard                  _see_ Chard.
-Tomato                  ½ in.         3 ft.       1 ft. if trained to
-                                                 single stem, 2-3 feet
-                                                   if allowed to grow
-                                                       naturally.
-Turnip                  ½ in.       15-18 in.            6 in.
-
-
-                                Table IV
-
-Quantity of seeds required to plant a row one hundred feet long, and
-time of planting.
-
-                           Time to plant                   Quantity
-                                                           required
-   Bean (pole)             Late May or early June           ½ pint
-   Bean (dwarf)            May 10 to August                 1 pint
-   [6]Beet                 April to August                  2 oz.
-   [6]Cabbage (early)      Feb. indoors; plants set out     1 pkt.
-                           in March or April
-   Cabbage late)           May; plants set out in June or   1 pkt.
-                           July
-   [6]Carrot               April to July                    1 oz.
-   Cauliflower (early)     Treat like Cabbage               1 pkt.
-   Cauliflower (late)      Treat like Cabbage               1 pkt.
-   Celery                  March indoors; plants set out    1 pkt.
-                           in June or July
-   [6]Chard                April                            1 oz.
-   Corn                    May 10 to July 10                ½ pint
-   Cucumber                Late May or early June           ½ oz.
-   Egg-plant               March indoors; plants set out    1 pkt.
-                           early in June
-   Kale,                   _see_ Cabbage (late).
-   Kohlrabi                April to August                  ¼ oz.
-   [6]Lettuce              April to August                  ½ oz.
-   Muskmelon               Early June                       ½ oz.
-   Okra                    May or June                      2 oz.
-   Onion (seed)            April and May                    1 oz.
-   Onion (sets)            March 15 to May 15              1 quart
-   [6]Parsley              April                            ¼ oz.
-   [6]Parsnip              April                            ½ oz.
-   [6]Peas                 March 15 to May and August 1    1 quart
-                           to 20
-   Peppers                 March indoors; plants set out    1 pkt.
-                           in late May or early June
-   [6]Potato               April to June                    1 peck
-   [6]Radish               March to September               1 oz.
-   [6]Salsify              April                            1 oz.
-   [6]Spinach              March and September              1 oz.
-   Squash                  Late May or early June           ½ oz.
-   [6]Swiss Chard,         _see_ Chard.
-   Tomato                  March indoors; plants set out    1 pkt.
-                           in late May or early June
-   Turnip                  April, July and August           ½ oz.
-
-[6] Are hardy vegetables, and will stand slight frost. Should be planted
-as soon as the ground can be worked. Dates given are approximate and
-apply in the vicinity of New York. Other localities should take into
-consideration the effects of elevation and latitude.
-
-
-                                THE END
-
-                 *        *        *        *        *
-
-Transcriber’s Notes:
-
-A few obvious punctuation and typesetting errors have been corrected
-without note. Chemicals mentioned for insect control should not be used
-in modern day gardens since they are not considered to be safe.
-
-[End of _War Gardens_ by Montague Free]
-
-
-
-
-
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-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of War Gardens, by Montague Free
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-Title: War Gardens
-       A Pocket Guide for Home Vegetable Growers
-
-Author: Montague Free
-
-Release Date: August 23, 2020 [EBook #63013]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WAR GARDENS ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Mardi Desjardins & the online Distributed
-Proofreaders Canada team at https://www.pgdpcanada.net,
-from page images generously made available by the University
-of Wisconsin Digital Collection.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-</pre>
-
-<div class='figcenter'>
-<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' id='iid-0000' style='width:65%;height:auto;'/>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div class='lgc' style=''> <!-- rend=';' -->
-<p class='line0' style='margin-top:2em;margin-bottom:1em;font-size:2em;font-weight:bold;'>WAR GARDENS</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<div class='figcenter'>
-<img src='images/i001.jpg' alt='' id='iid-0001' style='width:15%;height:auto;'/>
-</div>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-</div> <!-- end rend -->
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div class='lgc' style=''> <!-- rend=';' -->
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line0' style='margin-bottom:1em;font-size:1.5em;font-weight:bold;'>WAR GARDENS</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line0' style='font-size:1.2em;'><span class='it'>A Pocket Guide for</span></p>
-<p class='line0' style='font-size:1.2em;'><span class='it'>Home Vegetable Growers</span></p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line0'>BY</p>
-<p class='line0' style='font-size:1.2em;'>MONTAGUE FREE</p>
-<p class='line0'><span class='it'>Head Gardener</span></p>
-<p class='line0'><span class='it'>Brooklyn Botanic Garden</span></p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<div class='figcenter'>
-<img src='images/logo.jpg' alt='' id='iid-0002' style='width:15%;height:auto;'/>
-</div>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line0' style='font-size:1.2em;'>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS PUBLISHERS</p>
-<p class='line0'>NEW YORK AND LONDON</p>
-</div> <!-- end rend -->
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div class='lgc' style=''> <!-- rend=';' -->
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line0'><span class='sc'>War Gardens</span></p>
-</div> <!-- end rend -->
-
-<hr class='tbk100'/>
-
-<div class='lgc' style=''> <!-- rend=';' -->
-<p class='line0'>Copyright, 1918, by Harper &amp; Brothers</p>
-<p class='line0'>Printed in the United States of America</p>
-<p class='line0'>Published May, 1918</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-</div> <!-- end rend -->
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div><h1 class='nobreak'>CONTENTS</h1></div>
-
-<table id='tab1' summary='' class='center' style='font-size:1.1em;'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 3em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 20em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 2em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'></td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle1'><span class='sc'>Chapter</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><span class='sc'>Page</span></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'></td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Preface</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#pref'>vii</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>I.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>The Value of Back-yard and Vacant-lot Gardening</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>II.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>How to Make a Start—Community Gardens</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_5'>5</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>III.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Tools</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_10'>10</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>IV.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>The Site—The Soil and Its Preparation</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_15'>15</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>V.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Fertilizers</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>VI.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>The Kinds of Vegetables to Grow</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>VII.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Planning the Garden</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_36'>36</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>VIII.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Seeds, Seed-sowing, and Transplanting</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>IX.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Hoeing and Thinning</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_47'>47</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>X.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Staking and Tying</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>XI.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Insect Enemies</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_53'>53</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>XII.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Plant Diseases</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>XIII.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>The Culture of Vegetables in Detail</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_69'>69</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'>XIV.</td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Harvesting and Storing</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab1c1 tdStyle0'></td><td class='tab1c2 tdStyle3'><span class='sc'>Appendix</span></td><td class='tab1c3 tdStyle0'><a href='#Page_109'>109</a></td><td class='tab1c4 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='vii' id='Page_vii'></span></p>
-<div><h1 class='nobreak'><a id='pref'></a>PREFACE</h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>The</span> purpose of this book is to state simply
-and clearly the ways and means necessary to
-obtain the largest returns from small plots
-of land.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The conditions are anything but ideal in
-the case of many plots that will be used as
-“war gardens.” To tell how to overcome
-these adverse conditions, either by adapting
-the crop to soil and situation, or by modifying
-the soil to suit the crop, is one of the
-primary objects of this book.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In the writer’s varied experience with
-back-yard and vacant-lot gardens, questions
-relating to soils and fertilizers, insects and
-diseases, when and what to plant, etc., are
-continually cropping up. Answers to these
-questions are given here without theorizing
-or going into needless details.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>This is essentially a practical book, designed
-to help those who desire to raise their
-own vegetables in a limited space.</p>
-
-<p class='line0' style='text-align:right;margin-right:2em;margin-top:0.5em;'>M. F.</p>
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<p class='line0' style='text-align:center;margin-top:0.5em;margin-bottom:1em;font-size:1.8em;font-weight:bold;'>WAR GARDENS</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='1' id='Page_1'></span></p>
-<div><h1 class='nobreak'>I<br/> <span class='sub-head'>THE VALUE OF BACK-YARD AND VACANT-LOT GARDENING</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>The</span> National War Garden Commission
-has estimated that “the people of this
-country in 1917 produced a crop valued at
-three hundred and fifty million dollars in
-gardens cultivated in back yards, on vacant
-lots, and on other land previously untilled.”
-This may seem a small amount when compared
-with the value of the crops raised by
-the farmers and market gardeners, but it is
-not to be despised, and it shows that something
-can be done to increase the food supply
-by home gardening.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The raising of vegetables at home not only
-increases food production, but also stimulates
-the consumption of vegetables, thus releasing
-staples, such as wheat and meat, for the use
-of our soldiers and the Allies. This result is
-attained partly because fresh vegetables are
-more appetizing than shop-worn products and
-partly because of the attitude of the raiser,
-who says, “We have the stuff and may as
-well eat it.”</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The reduction in the cost of living is also
-a factor that must be considered. When
-vegetables are bought their purchase price
-is quite a considerable item in the household
-budget. Of course if labor is figured in the
-cost of raising vegetables at home the financial
-returns are not likely to be large unless
-you take into consideration the fact that the
-necessity of paying dues for gymnasium, tennis,
-or golf is entirely eliminated. Plenty of
-fresh air <span class='it'>and</span> exercise can be obtained in
-gardening.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Home gardening, too, should help the
-transportation problem to a certain extent.
-Most of the vegetables consumed in the large
-cities are transported a considerable distance,
-and if those people who eat these much-traveled
-vegetables raise their own, the transportation
-system will be relieved to that
-amount.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The raising and caring for plants is certain
-to broaden one’s interest. Very few people
-who cultivate a vegetable-garden, or any
-other kind of garden, for that matter, are
-likely to be satisfied until they know something
-of the physiology of plants, how and
-why they grow, and the principles underlying
-successful plant culture. The insects, both
-beneficial and otherwise, that one becomes
-acquainted with in the garden also add their
-quota of interest. The life histories of many
-of them are strange and marvelous, and it is
-worth while, both from the point of view of
-the welfare of the crops and from the educational
-standpoint, to learn something of
-their habits.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>But it is probably in the larger aspects of
-the situation that the home-garden movement
-will ultimately be of greatest value to
-the nation. America is not a gardening nation
-judged from European standards, but
-this agitation for the production of food by
-every one who has, or can obtain, a plot of
-ground is going to make us one. Those
-people who have once cultivated the ground
-and raised plants will have had their interest
-stimulated, and when the food shortage is
-over their activities will find an outlet in the
-production of flowers, which cannot but result
-in more beautiful cities and happier
-citizens.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A healthier population will result from the
-exercise in the open air and we shall become
-a less nervous and restless people through
-our association with the vital soil and living,
-growing plants.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='5' id='Page_5'></span></p>
-<div><h1>II<br/> <span class='sub-head'>HOW TO MAKE A START—COMMUNITY GARDENS</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>In</span> casting about for ways and means of
-starting a food-garden, by all means
-investigate the advisability of joining up
-with, or inaugurating, a community garden.
-There are tremendous possibilities in connection
-with co-operative efforts in developing
-vacant lots and making them productive,
-not in the sense of the real-estate man, but
-as food-producing plots, designed to reduce
-the cost of living, and, incidentally, in many
-cases, to clean up and make presentable
-what was formerly a neighborhood eyesore.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are many advantages to be gained
-by a neighborhood group combining together
-for gardening operations. Usually it is not
-difficult in most cities to find large plots of
-vacant land with owners who are only too
-glad to have them cultivated. By co-operative
-effort it is possible to hire a team and
-plow and have such plots plowed at a trifling
-expense, whereas by individual effort it is
-seldom possible to obtain sufficient land to
-warrant the expense of hiring a team for
-plowing, even though the plot were large
-enough for the team to turn around on. A
-community garden organization can buy
-garden tools, such as wheelbarrows, wheel-hoes,
-a sprayer, and other comparatively
-costly tools, which greatly facilitate the work
-of caring for the plot, but which it would be
-impossible or unwise for an individual to
-buy if he wished to come anywhere near
-making a profit on his garden. Seeds and
-fertilizers can be bought to much greater advantage,
-and more cheaply when obtained
-in bulk, with the added advantage that of
-such seeds as tomato, egg-plant, peppers and
-celery, one packet is usually enough for the
-whole organization, whereas by individual
-effort it would be necessary for each gardener
-to buy his own packet of seed, resulting in
-considerable waste. Waste is not to be condoned
-at any time, especially now when
-seeds of some vegetables are scarce.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I have in mind a community organization
-a description of which will serve to illustrate
-what can be done by organized effort of this
-kind.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A piece of land about three acres in extent
-was available for cultivation in this case.
-It was fairly good land, but had served to
-some extent as a dumping-ground for cellar
-excavations, and had a considerable amount
-of rubbish of one kind and another deposited
-upon it. The principal of an adjacent school
-decided that this land ought not to remain
-idle, so he obtained permission from the owner
-to use it, and then, with some other energetic
-people of the community, got together and
-started to do things. The ground was first
-plowed and harrowed free of charge by the
-city park department and the largest of the
-stones removed. It was then decided that
-the plot should be fenced, in order to keep
-out cats, dogs, small boys, and other undesirables,
-and to insure that those who
-raised the crops should receive the benefit.
-Material, consisting of two-by-four-inch posts
-eight feet long, chicken netting five feet wide,
-and a strand of barbed wire to go around the
-top, was bought for this purpose at a cost of
-about $112. The fence was erected by
-volunteers in their spare time, and six padlocked
-gates provided, to which each plot-holder
-had a key. Water-pipe was laid all
-over the area so that the crops could be cared
-for in time of drought. The expense incurred
-for the purchase of pipe and installation,
-together with that of seeds, fertilizers,
-and the larger garden implements, was borne
-by the association. The area was divided
-into fifty plots each 100 × 23½ feet. Each
-plot-holder was asked to keep an account of
-his expenses, and also of the yields obtained.
-The results are interesting. The average
-cost of each plot, including expenses incurred
-for fencing, seeds, fertilizer, etc., was a little
-over $11; the value of the crops obtained
-was around $34; giving an average profit of
-between $22 and $23.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When one considers the smallness of these
-plots, it must be admitted that the results
-were worth while, and the whole adventure is
-very encouraging to those who contemplate a
-similar enterprise. Of course no allowance
-was made for the cost of labor involved in
-preparing and caring for these plots; but to
-offset this one should remember that the soil
-was not especially good, the workers not
-experienced, and then one must take into
-account the large initial expense of fencing
-the land, buying tools, etc. This year the
-expenses will be considerably less and the
-yields ought to be greatly increased because
-of the improvement of the soil through the
-cultivation of the preceding year.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Other advantages of community gardens
-that may be mentioned are these: there is not
-so much danger of a plot-holder becoming
-tired of gardening and quitting before he has
-harvested his crop; community gardening
-fosters a spirit of healthy competition, and
-each gardener tries to have his plot looking a
-little neater, and to produce larger and better
-crops, than his neighbor. Furthermore, in a
-body of men and women associated in this
-way there is almost always some one who has
-had a garden before and to whom the novices
-may turn for advice.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>While community gardening is undoubtedly
-the most economical, and, in many ways,
-the most pleasurable method for the home
-gardener to produce his crops, one should not
-be deterred from the attempt to grow vegetables
-merely because there is no opportunity
-to link up with an organization. The man
-with a back yard can grow some vegetables,
-provided that his soil is fairly good and his
-plot is open to the sunshine. Even the apartment-dweller
-need not despair, because in
-most cities it is possible to obtain the use of a
-plot of vacant ground, through either the
-municipality or some organization formed for
-the purpose of dealing with such situations.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='10' id='Page_10'></span></p>
-<div><h1>III<br/> <span class='sub-head'>TOOLS</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>It</span> is unnecessary to spend much money on
-tools for use in a small garden. The writer
-did very well in his home garden with nothing
-but an ordinary round-pointed shovel for
-digging purposes, a rake to pulverize the soil
-and make drills for seed-sowing, a scuffle-hoe
-for cultivating, and a garden line made from
-two sticks and a piece of twine. Of course
-there are many tools on the market that
-greatly facilitate cultivation and make gardening
-work easier, but their purchase is inadvisable
-unless the size of the garden and
-the permanency of its cultivation warrant it.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Nothing will be said as to the various types
-of horse-drawn or motor-driven implements.
-This book is written for those who have to
-do their gardening with hand tools or those
-who are limited to the hiring of just what
-horse-drawn tools happen to be available.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>For the preparation of the soil, probably
-the best implement is the spading-fork. It
-is easier to work with than a spade and in
-most cases is equally efficient. The spading-fork
-can be used for digging and, at a pinch,
-can be made to serve the purpose of fining
-the surface soil for seed-sowing. A spade is a
-handy tool to have, however, especially when
-any work is to be done in the way of making
-beds or forming walks.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>For seed-sowing the absolute essentials
-are very few. A yard-stick or foot-rule for
-measuring the distance between the rows is
-useful. An even better way of accomplishing
-this is to divide a hoe or rake handle, whichever
-is used in seed-sowing, into feet and
-quarter-feet, preferably cutting in the marks
-with a knife. If one is limited to buying just
-one tool for making the drills the rake should
-be chosen, as it can also be used for fining the
-soil and for cultivating between the rows.
-A garden line can easily be improvised from
-two sticks, sharpened at one end, and a
-suitable length of strong twine.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When the soil is fairly loose and easily
-worked, a scuffle-hoe is a very satisfactory
-tool for cultivating the surface. On the other
-hand, if the ground is hard and stony the
-ordinary draw-hoe should be chosen. A small
-hand weeder, which can be obtained at a
-cost of from ten to fifty cents, is very useful
-for loosening the surface of the ground close
-to the rows of young seedlings. Look over
-the illustrations of these tools in a seedsman’s
-catalogue and pick out the one most suited
-to your needs. With a little ingenuity, tools
-suitable for stirring up the surface soil can be
-fashioned at home from old hoop iron or
-stout wire fastened on wooden handles.
-After a season’s work in the garden you will
-discover just what you need in this line, and
-will probably be able to make a tool that will
-give far greater satisfaction than anything
-you might buy.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A garden hose of sufficient length so that
-water can be applied all over the garden is
-an advantage, but not absolutely necessary.
-A good rubber hose costs, nowadays, about
-ten dollars for a length of fifty feet, and a few
-expenditures of this nature sadly eat into the
-profits of the garden. As an accessory to the
-hose a sprinkler throwing a fine spray, that
-can be left running for several hours, is very
-useful and desirable, especially if there is no
-meter attached to your water supply!</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When combating insects and diseases in a
-small garden, a sprayer of the atomizer type
-holding about a quart of insecticide and
-costing between one and two dollars is very
-valuable. In a garden of considerable extent,
-or in a community garden, insecticides and
-fungicides can be economically and efficiently
-applied by means of a compressed-air spray-pump
-holding three or four gallons and costing
-between six and eight dollars. If a large
-potato-patch is cultivated, a powder-distributing
-bellows, costing about one dollar, is
-useful for distributing Paris green in powder
-form. A powder-distributer for use in a
-small garden can be improvised by making a
-small cheese-cloth bag in which the powder
-is placed and distributed by shaking the bag
-over the plants.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Wheel-hoes varying in price from five to
-fifteen dollars—the price depending on the
-size and number of attachments—are available
-for expediting the work in large gardens.
-Some of these implements have attachments
-so that they may be used for marking the
-rows, sowing seeds in drills or hills, for raking,
-cultivating, and shallow plowing. These,
-however, are for use on large areas by professional
-gardeners, or to delight the connoisseur
-of tools.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>To sum up—the tools that it is advisable
-for a beginner, with a garden of moderate
-size, to buy are: a spading-fork, an iron
-rake, a six-inch hoe (of either the scuffle or
-the ordinary variety), a one-quart atomizer
-for applying spray fluids, and a watering-can.
-The cost of these should not exceed three or
-four dollars.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Start out with a few essential tools and
-add others if you find that you absolutely
-need them.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='15' id='Page_15'></span></p>
-<div><h1>IV<br/> <span class='sub-head'>THE SITE—THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Practically</span> all of the vegetable
-crops require sunshine, and plenty of
-it, in order to attain their full development.
-Therefore, in selecting the location of your
-vegetable-garden (if it is possible to have
-any choice) choose one open to sunshine and
-not hemmed in by tall buildings which shut
-out the air. A location near big trees should
-be avoided, for the trees not only shade
-the crops, but their wide-spreading roots also
-rob the ground of food and moisture which
-the vegetables need. The ideal location for a
-vegetable-garden is one open to the south
-and sheltered from the north and west winds,
-but always with this provision—the soil
-must be of a suitable nature.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>This brings us to a consideration of one of
-the most important factors in successful
-vegetable culture—that of the soil.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Soils vary a great deal in their physical
-characters and also in their chemical composition.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Sandy soils quickly dry out and warm up
-in the spring, and in consequence it is possible
-to prepare them for planting and produce
-crops much earlier than is the case with
-heavier soils. For this reason sandy soils are
-usually preferred by market gardeners, whose
-object is to get their crops on the market as
-soon as possible. One great objection to
-sandy soils is the rapidity with which they
-lose their moisture by drainage and evaporation.
-They are frequently not naturally
-fertile and it is necessary to apply large
-quantities of manure to make them profitable.
-They are also subject to loss of fertility
-by leaching. The way in which these
-disadvantages can be corrected will be told
-later.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>At the other end of the scale, almost exactly
-opposite in every particular, are those
-soils in which clay predominates. Soils of
-this type are cold, they dry out very slowly,
-and as a result it is late before they can be
-fitted for planting. In dry seasons, because
-of their water-holding capacity, they are
-greatly to be preferred, and plants growing
-on them are less liable to suffer from drought.
-Clay soils, because of their stickiness, are
-very difficult to work, and although they may
-be well supplied with plant food, it is sometimes
-unavailable because of the sticky,
-tenacious character of the clay which does
-not provide a good medium in which the
-roots may ramify in search of food.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Peat soils and muck lands are made up
-largely of decayed organic matter. They are
-usually deficient in minerals, but by correct
-management can be made to produce good
-crops of certain kinds of vegetables. Enormous
-quantities of celery and onions are
-successfully grown on muck soils.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The kind of soil most desired by the
-gardener is the happy medium that is called
-loam. This consists of a mixture of clay and
-sand in nearly equal proportions, combined
-with a considerable quantity of decayed
-organic matter. Such soils are fertile, easy
-to work, retentive of moisture, but sufficiently
-porous so that the moisture is not retained
-in excess. Air can penetrate such soils, a
-prime necessity for healthy root growth, and
-also necessary for the existence of bacteria
-which do so much in making inert plant
-foods soluble and available for the use of
-plants.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The extreme types of soil previously mentioned
-can be greatly improved by judicious
-treatment. It will be remembered that one
-of the great drawbacks to sandy soils was
-the readiness with which they lose their
-moisture. The proper treatment for this type
-is to add organic matter. This decays and
-forms humus, which binds the coarse particles
-together to a certain extent and increases the
-absorbtive and retentive properties of the soil.
-This organic matter is best applied in the
-form of decayed, or partially decayed, barn-yard
-or stable manure. If manure is not
-available a good substitute can be found in
-leaves. These may be gathered in the fall
-and piled in a heap to decay. Very little
-decomposition will take place during the
-winter months in the Northern states, and
-for this reason leaves that have been piled in
-heaps for twelve months or more are to be
-preferred. Decay may be hastened by forking
-over the leaves two or three times during
-the summer. Although decayed leaves are
-better than fresh ones for mixing in with the
-soil, fresh leaves are better than none at all.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The owners of city gardens frequently
-neglect an opportunity of adding humus to
-their soil when they allow the leaves of
-street trees to be burned or carted away.
-The city street-cleaning department is usually
-only too glad to be relieved of this duty.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When it is impossible to add humus to the
-soil through the medium of organic manures,
-as is often the case in city back yards, recourse
-may be had to one of the many brands
-of prepared humus obtainable from seedsmen.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Liming is also considered to be good for
-sandy soils, as the lime exercises a binding influence
-on the coarse particles. Of course
-when clay is available it is good to add it,
-and mix thoroughly with the sand, but it is
-seldom that clay is present in near enough
-proximity to make this practice a paying
-proposition. Compacting sandy soils, by
-means of a roller on large areas, or by means
-of the feet in the case of small plots, is good
-horticultural practice.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Clay soils, like the preceding, are greatly
-improved by the addition of organic matter.
-It should be applied in the fall, in the form of
-strawy stable manure, and buried deeply.
-Leaves also are a valuable addition. Liming
-is good, as this causes the flocculation of the
-clay particles and renders the soil more open
-and permeable by air and water. The addition
-of sand, sifted coal ashes, or wood
-ashes serves the same purpose. Clay soils
-are benefited by being plowed or spaded in
-the fall and left rough over the winter. This
-allows the frost to penetrate more readily,
-resulting in the breaking up and disintegration
-of the clods. Another advantage of fall
-plowing in the case of land of this type is that
-by so doing it dries out more rapidly in the
-spring and it is possible to get your crops
-planted earlier.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Muck and swamp soils are frequently
-waterlogged, and before they will support a
-crop it is necessary to underdrain them; but
-as this is an operation that is scarcely
-practicable for those for whom this book is
-written, it will not be dealt with here. As
-there is always a lack of basic salts in this
-type of soil, liming is practised, usually to
-good advantage.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Those who contemplate taking over a piece
-of land for the purpose of growing vegetables
-should, if the land has not previously produced
-a crop, obtain the opinion of a competent
-gardener as to its possibilities from a
-gardening standpoint. Such men are usually
-available in every community, and as a rule
-are glad to help. If expert opinion is not
-available, the novice can form an approximate
-idea of its value by making careful observations
-in the following manner. Take notice
-of the vegetation growing on the plot. If it
-is luxuriant and consists mostly of grasses it
-will probably be all right for growing vegetables.
-Dig holes here and there with a spade
-or trowel and examine the soil. If you find,
-an inch or two below the surface, nothing but
-tin cans and broken bottles it is not a safe
-gardening proposition. Neither should you
-go ahead if you find only a thin layer of
-topsoil, two or three inches, above the subsoil.
-It is usually easy to tell the difference
-between what is known as topsoil and subsoil.
-The topsoil is darker in color, due to
-the presence of humus, and of a finer texture.
-This topsoil should be at least eight inches
-deep to get good results. Soils which contain
-too many large stones should be avoided, also
-those which consist of only a thin layer overlying
-a rock ledge.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Most vegetables succeed best in a soil that
-is slightly alkaline, and land intended for
-garden use should be tested with litmus
-paper to discover if acid is present in excess.
-Take a piece of blue litmus paper and press it
-upon a handful of moist soil. If it turns red
-it indicates the presence of acid and the
-advisability of liming. Lime is a valuable
-element in the soil, as it assists in making
-plant foods soluble. It is best applied in the
-fall, spreading it over the surface and digging
-or plowing it in. It can also be applied in the
-spring, but in no case should it be put on so
-that it comes in direct contact with manure.
-Lime applied with manure causes ammonia
-to be liberated too rapidly in the form of gas,
-which escapes into the air, and thus much of
-the fertility of the manure is lost. When it is
-necessary to apply lime in the spring, the
-manure should first be dug or plowed under,
-and the lime then spread on the surface, and
-raked or harrowed in. Use about 20 pounds
-of air-slaked lime or 30 to 40 pounds of
-ground limestone to 400 square feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Thorough preparation of the soil is essential
-if best results are to be obtained. This means
-that the soil must be broken up and pulverized
-as deeply as possible. There are
-several reasons for this. Breaking up the soil
-to a good depth increases the water-holding
-capacity of the soil—a very important point
-because of the fact that plants have to take
-all of the food substances that they obtain
-from the soil in solution. It provides a greater
-bulk of soil in which the plant roots may
-ramify in search of food. The less fertile the
-soil the greater is the necessity for breaking it
-deeply to increase the area from which the
-roots may draw nourishment. Deep tillage
-encourages the roots to penetrate downward,
-and plants whose roots go down deeply
-in the soil are less likely to suffer during dry
-spells.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is well to remember, however, that although
-it is desirable to have the soil broken
-up deeply it is not a good practice to bring
-too much of the subsoil up to the surface in
-digging or plowing. In farming operations a
-greater depth of soil is obtained by using
-what is known as a subsoil plow. This implement
-frequently is used after the field has
-been plowed in the usual way and penetrates
-below the topsoil and breaks up the subsoil,
-but without disturbing their relative positions.
-In gardens the same result is obtained
-by what is called bastard trenching, of which
-more will be said later.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In preparing a piece of ground that has not
-previously been cultivated the first thing to
-do is to remove all large stones and rubbish
-that may be on the surface. If it is a large
-area, the work of breaking it will, of course,
-be done with a plow. Supposing the land is
-covered with a growth of sod, it is a good plan
-to go over it several times with a disk harrow
-before plowing. This will cut up the sods,
-cause them to decay more rapidly when they
-are turned under, and insure the soil being
-pulverized throughout its whole depth. After
-plowing, harrowing is necessary to break the
-lumps and to compact the soil somewhat.
-The fining process can then be completed
-by hand, using a rake for the purpose.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Small areas can be prepared for planting by
-digging with a spade or spading-fork. A
-trench should first be dug a foot or eighteen
-inches wide and a foot deep, provided that
-the topsoil extends that far. The soil from
-this trench should be placed on one side so
-as to be available for filling in the last trench
-when digging is finished. Having opened the
-first trench, proceed with the digging, turning
-each spadeful of soil bottom up in the trench.
-The soil can be turned over with greater ease
-and more efficiently by always maintaining
-a trench when digging. It is the only way
-by which sods, manure, and weeds may be
-properly buried so that they may decay and
-form plant food.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Bastard trenching is carried out in the same
-way as digging except that the trench is made
-at least two feet wide and the subsoil thus
-exposed is broken up with a spading-fork
-before the topsoil from the next trench is
-turned over upon it.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When digging, the soil should be broken up
-as finely as possible with the spade or fork,
-so as to leave no lumps, and all large stones
-should be thrown out.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Digging or plowing should never be attempted
-when the ground is frozen or when
-it is so wet that the soil sticks to the tools
-used.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>After the soil has been turned over and
-broken up the rake should come into operation
-and the surface fined so as to fit it for
-seed-sowing.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='26' id='Page_26'></span></p>
-<div><h1>V<br/> <span class='sub-head'>FERTILIZERS</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>The</span> most important elements that it is
-necessary to apply to the soil in the form
-of fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and
-potash.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Nitrogen</span> greatly stimulates the production
-of leaves, and an excess of it applied to crops
-grown for their fruit or roots is undesirable.
-It is contained in all the animal manures,
-associated with other fertilizing elements,
-and in a practically pure state in nitrate of
-soda.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Phosphorus</span> is a valuable and necessary
-fertilizer which has a great influence on the
-production of fruits and seeds. It is found in
-greater or less quantities in animal manures,
-and in bone meal. Phosphatic rock that has
-been treated with acid is another important
-source of phosphorus.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Potash.</span> The rôle of potash in the soil is
-similar to that of phosphoric acid. It is considered
-to be a valuable fertilizer for all crops
-that are grown for their roots. It occurs in
-animal manures and in wood ashes. Muriate
-of potash and kainite contain potash in a
-more concentrated form, but are difficult to
-obtain at present.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>All of these three elements must be present
-in the soil for the production of healthy crops.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is generally conceded that the best all-round
-fertilizer for plants is decayed <span class='it'>barn-yard</span>
-or <span class='it'>stable manure</span>. It not only adds
-fertility to the soil, but by its decay it helps
-to make the mineral particles soluble and
-thus available as plant foods. As already
-indicated, it also improves the physical condition
-of the soil, making sandy soils more
-retentive of moisture, and rendering clay
-soils more porous. When applied in the
-spring it should be decayed or partly decayed,
-as in this condition it is immediately
-available for the use of the crop. If it is put
-on the ground in the fall, fresh manure may
-be used and plowed under. By the time that
-the planting season arrives it will be sufficiently
-decayed. If there is no objection on
-the score of appearances, stable manure, either
-fresh or decayed, may be applied in the form
-of a thin mulch (a layer on the surface of the
-ground) at any time when the plants are
-growing. The fertility is gradually washed
-down into the soil by rain, and a loose covering
-of this kind is of additional advantage in
-that it helps to prevent the loss of water from
-the soil by evaporation. This mulch must
-<span class='it'>not</span> be worked into the soil so that it comes in
-contact with the plant roots, but should be
-left on the surface until it is dug under the
-following fall or spring. Discretion must be
-exercised in its use. Root crops, that are
-already growing luxuriantly, such as beets
-or carrots, or crops that are grown for their
-fruit, such as beans and tomatoes, would
-probably be harmed by a surface dressing of
-this kind. Barn-yard manure is rich in
-nitrogen, which is a great stimulant of leaf
-growth. If it is applied too freely to the crops
-just mentioned it is likely to result in an
-excessive crop of leaves at the expense of
-roots or fruit.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A dressing of stable manure two or three
-inches thick all over the plot or at the rate of
-from three to five hundred pounds to a plot
-twenty by twenty feet is about the right
-quantity to use when the ground is dug or
-plowed.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Sheep manure</span> is perhaps the next in importance
-of the organic manures and is more
-concentrated than barn-yard or stable manure.
-It can be applied at the rate of forty
-pounds to four hundred square feet. It is
-better to spread it over the surface immediately
-after the ground has been broken
-up, and thoroughly mix it with the surface
-soil by means of a rake or harrow.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Hen manure</span> is still more concentrated and
-should be used in the same way, or as a top-dressing
-after the crops have started their
-growth. Twenty pounds to four hundred
-square feet is a suitable amount to apply.
-To facilitate its distribution it should be
-mixed with dry earth and kept in a dry place
-for a few weeks before it is desired to apply it.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Of the so-called <span class='it'>chemical fertilizers</span>, those
-that are sold by seedsmen as “complete”
-fertilizers are the best for the amateur to
-buy. These at the present time are usually
-made up in the proportion of 5 per cent. nitrogen,
-8 per cent. phosphorus, and 1 per cent.
-potash. Use twelve pounds to four hundred
-square feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>All of the preceding are “complete” fertilizers
-containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and
-potash in varying proportions. If they are
-used in combination the quantities must be
-reduced.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Bone meal</span> is a fertilizer which contains
-phosphorus and nitrogen. In some of its
-forms it is rather slow acting and sometimes
-does not become fully available for the use of
-the crop until the year succeeding its application.
-Use twelve pounds to four hundred
-square feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Nitrate of soda</span> is the quickest-acting
-fertilizer that we have and is very valuable
-for stimulating the growth of plants early in
-the spring, when the nitrogen content of the
-soil is usually low. It is especially suitable
-for those crops that are grown for their leaves,
-such as spinach, lettuce, and cabbage. Great
-care must be exercised in the use of this
-fertilizer, as an overdose will injure or kill the
-plants. As it is very soluble, it should not be
-applied until the plants are up and ready to
-use it, otherwise much of it will be washed
-out of the soil and wasted. It should be
-sprinkled on the surface of the soil, first
-crushing the lumps, and then mixed in with a
-hoe or cultivator. An ounce to each square
-yard, applied at intervals of about three
-weeks, until the crops have a good start, is the
-right proportion to use. It is impossible to
-lay too much emphasis on the necessity for
-care in the use of this fertilizer. It must not
-be allowed to come in contact with the leaves
-of the crop, or it will cause them to burn and
-turn brown. Generally speaking, it is not a
-good fertilizer to use on root or fruit crops,
-although it can be used to good advantage in
-helping young plants of tomato, cucumber,
-muskmelon, etc., to get a start just after they
-have been planted out. Its use later in the
-season is likely to result in the production of
-leaves at the expense of fruit.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Wood ashes</span> contain potash and lime. This
-fertilizer is a valuable dressing for heavy,
-clayey soils, as it improves their physical
-condition. It is good for root crops, such as
-beets, carrots, radishes, etc. Use twenty
-pounds to four hundred square feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is best to apply all concentrated fertilizers
-as surface dressings, and then harrow or
-rake them into the soil, rather than to plow
-or dig them under.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>If it so happens that the soil is not very
-fertile and there is only a limited quantity of
-fertilizer available, it is a good plan, instead
-of spreading it all over the plot, to apply it
-only in close proximity to the hills or drills
-in which the plants are growing.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is important to remember that the greatest
-good can only be obtained from chemical
-fertilizers when the soil is plentifully supplied
-with humus.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='32' id='Page_32'></span></p>
-<div><h1>VI<br/> <span class='sub-head'>THE KINDS OF VEGETABLES TO GROW</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>A number</span> of factors have to be taken
-into consideration before deciding just
-which kinds of vegetables to plant in your
-garden. Some of these factors are: the
-nature of the soil, the size of the garden,
-the food value of the crop and the ease
-with which it may be stored for winter
-use.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Sometimes it is possible to adapt the soil
-to the crop, but usually it is easier to adapt
-the crop to the soil. A rich loam will support
-practically all of the vegetables and produce
-good crops. A thin, sandy soil which has
-not been properly fertilized is only suitable
-for such crops as bush beans, beets, Swiss
-chard, tomato, and New Zealand spinach.
-Of course other crops can be grown on such
-a soil, but not very satisfactorily. Potatoes
-like a sandy soil, but it must be well
-fertilized.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Heavy clay soils will grow cabbage, kale,
-corn, parsley, parsnips (if the soil is deep),
-peas and rhubarb.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>If the soil is shallow it is not advisable to
-attempt any of the root crops that make a
-long root. In this category belong the long
-beets, parsnips, and salsify.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>That person is unwise who attempts to
-grow potatoes, corn, and cabbage in a very
-restricted area. These crops need plenty of
-room in which to develop, and when one has
-only a city back yard, or a small plot, it is
-better to concentrate on the smaller-growing
-vegetables. The best crops to grow in the
-city back yard are bush beans, parsley,
-radish, beets, Swiss chard, and tomato.
-Peas would probably succeed if it were not
-for the sparrows which pick off the leaves as
-fast as they are produced.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>One is strictly limited if the available
-ground is shaded. All the vegetables need
-sun for the greater part of the day. Those
-kinds which are grown for their leaves are
-more satisfactory in a shady garden, and if
-the soil conditions are favorable the following
-may be tried: beet, cabbage, lettuce, and
-Swiss chard. Even these need a few hours of
-sunshine.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Those who are interested in dietetics may
-wish to choose their vegetables on the basis of
-their food value. In terms of the calorie, the
-unit of energy as applied to food, we find that
-1 ounce of dried beans (seeds) and 8 ounces
-of string-beans are required to produce a
-hundred calories. Of green corn 3.2 ounces
-are needed; of potatoes, 5.3 ounces; of onions,
-8 ounces; of beets, 9.6 ounces; of cabbage,
-13.3 ounces; and at the bottom of the list
-comes celery, of which 23.7 ounces are required
-to produce a hundred calories. It is
-misleading, however, to take a list of vegetables
-with their caloric values and decide,
-that because 6.4 ounces of peas contain one
-hundred calories, while it is necessary to
-have 10.1 ounces of carrots to produce the
-same amount, nothing but peas shall be
-grown in the garden. The proper basis on
-which to make a decision along these lines
-is on the amount of calories that can be obtained
-from each square yard of ground. A
-considerable area is necessary for the production
-of a pound of peas, while a similar
-weight of carrots could be produced in a
-much smaller space. Furthermore, it must
-be remembered that the human system demands
-a certain amount of bulky foods, and
-these are supplied by vegetables low in
-caloric values.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are a number of crops that can easily
-be preserved or stored for winter use, and this
-should be considered when deciding what
-kinds of vegetables to grow. String-beans
-are easily preserved by pickling them in
-brine, and there is no difficulty whatever in
-caring for the dry-shell beans when they are
-not infested with weevils. All of the root
-crops—carrots, beets, parsnips—can be easily
-stored in sand or soil in the cellar, and
-potatoes are one of the easiest of crops to care
-for. Onions can readily be carried over into
-the winter if a cool, airy room is available.
-All of the crops just mentioned are fairly
-high in food value.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='36' id='Page_36'></span></p>
-<div><h1>VII<br/> <span class='sub-head'>PLANNING THE GARDEN</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>A garden</span> can be made without a plan,
-but it is usually a haphazard sort of
-affair, and it frequently means that much
-more money is spent for seeds than is necessary.
-Another frequent happening in a miss-or-hit
-garden of this kind is a plethora of
-some kinds of vegetables and a great scarcity
-of others.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is difficult to give any definite information
-as to the quantities of vegetables
-to grow, as yields vary so much, owing to
-the character of the soil and climate, the
-variety of the vegetable, and the skill, or
-lack of it, of the gardener. The preferences
-of the individual must also be considered.
-The table in the Appendix giving the
-approximate amount of vegetables that can
-be obtained from a hundred-foot row may
-be helpful. It must be remembered, however,
-that these figures are only approximate
-and that wide variations can be expected.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When planning your garden you must take
-into consideration the sunshine it receives,
-and if part of it is shaded reserve that part for
-those crops that will endure shade. If there
-is any variation in the nature of the soil,
-whether in regard to its physical condition,
-fertility, or wetness, you should place the
-crops accordingly.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>As a general rule the rows should run north
-and south, as by this plan each row receives
-its share of sunlight. If for any reason this is
-not practicable, put the tall-growing crops at
-the north end of the plot, so that they do not
-shade the smaller kinds. The perennial crops,
-like asparagus and rhubarb, are best placed
-at one end or side of the plot so that they are
-not in the way when digging or plowing is
-being done. It makes a better-looking plot
-if those vegetables which are planted the same
-distance apart are grouped together.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Plan to have the ground occupied for the
-whole season. Many vegetables take a
-comparatively short time in which to mature,
-and these can be removed when harvested and
-the ground occupied by another crop. Thus
-peas can be followed by cauliflower or cabbage,
-early beets by beans, lettuce by tomato,
-and so on. Find out the average number of
-growing-days in your locality and consult
-the table in the Appendix giving the number
-of days required to bring the various crops
-to maturity.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When planning for succession vegetables,
-have some regard to crop rotation. That is
-to say, if the ground in the early part of the
-season has been occupied by a leaf crop,
-follow it by a fruit crop, or <span class='it'>vice versa</span>. Early
-cabbage followed by beans may be cited as
-an example. Similarly, root crops may be
-followed by leaf crops, as early carrots and
-fall spinach.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Another important reason for crop rotation
-is that it lessens the danger of loss from
-disease. Many of the fungous diseases of
-plants are carried over from year to year in
-the soil. Some of them are able to live on
-only one particular host plant, and if that
-crop is not grown in the soil where the fungus
-is hibernating the disease ultimately dies out
-through lack of food.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The first thing to do in planning a vegetable-garden
-is to measure the plot and
-transfer its outlines to scale on paper. Then,
-bearing in mind the considerations just outlined
-in this chapter, decide on the kinds of
-vegetables you wish to grow. Now the real
-fun of planning begins! The desires of the
-grower as to quantities and variety of vegetables
-must be scaled down so as to fit the
-plot. Take a ruler and draw lines across your
-plan to represent the rows of vegetables.
-The distance between the rows may be drawn
-to scale to correspond with the actual distance
-between the rows on the ground,<a id='r1'/><a href='#f1' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[1]</span></sup></a> or
-you may merely note the theoretical distance
-between the lines. Write the name of the
-vegetable on each line, with that of the succession
-crop, if any. It is a good idea to
-mount your plan on stiff cardboard when
-finished, and to allow a space either at the
-side or on the back for making notes to be
-taken during the growing-season. These
-notes may consist of reminders that such
-and such a crop is not suited in its present
-location, the time occupied from seed-sowing
-to maturity, the desirability or otherwise of
-certain vegetables, etc.</p>
-
-<hr class='footnotemark'/>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_1'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f1'><a href='#r1'>[1]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>See Appendix, <a href='#III'>Table III</a>.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='40' id='Page_40'></span></p>
-<div><h1>VIII<br/> <span class='sub-head'>SEEDS, SEED-SOWING, AND TRANSPLANTING</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Most</span> seeds, with the exception of carrot,
-onion, parsnip, and parsley, will grow
-fairly satisfactorily even if they are more
-than one year old, so that left-overs from
-the preceding year may be planted with
-good results. Before using these left-over
-seeds, however, it is wise to test their germinating
-power before committing them to the
-garden. To plant seeds which will not germinate
-is a waste of time and labor. Testing
-the viability of seeds is a simple and easy
-matter and very advisable if there is any
-doubt. Count out fifty or one hundred seeds
-of the kind that you wish to test and plant
-them in sand or earth in a cigar-box or something
-similar. Place them in a fairly warm
-room (temperature about 60° Fahr.) and keep the
-soil moist. In a week or two take note of the
-number which have sprouted, and this will
-give you the percentage of good seeds and
-some idea of the quantity you will have to
-plant in order to get a good stand. For
-instance, if only 50 per cent. of the seeds
-germinate it means that it will be necessary
-to plant double the usual number to make
-sure of having a sufficient number of plants.
-Another and less messy way of testing seeds
-is to place them on a plate between blotters
-or cloth, which must be kept moist, covering
-them with another plate to prevent too rapid
-evaporation of moisture. Although they
-adequately furnish the desired information,
-neither of these methods of testing seeds gives
-an absolutely accurate indication of what will
-take place when they are planted in the
-garden. Seeds out of doors are exposed to a
-number of hazards that are not present under
-indoor conditions.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Before planting any seeds outdoors the soil
-must be in the proper condition. It must
-not be so wet that it sticks to the tools used,
-the surface must be finely pulverized with a
-rake, and all large stones taken off.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are three ways of planting seeds outdoors—in
-drills, in hills, and broadcast. The
-<span class='it'>drills</span> consist of shallow trenches from one-half
-inch to two inches deep, in which the seeds are
-sown. The young plants are later thinned out
-so that they stand an equal distance apart.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Seeds are said to be planted in <span class='it'>hills</span> when
-they are sown in such a way that the resultant
-plants are in groups of three or more
-standing the same distance in the rows as
-the distance between the rows.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Broadcast</span> sowing is when the seeds are
-scattered over the surface of the ground and
-covered by raking them in, or by sprinkling
-soil over them.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A garden line should always be stretched
-across the plot as a guide when making the
-drills. This insures straight rows, resulting
-in an enhanced appearance of the garden
-and greater ease in subsequent cultivation.
-A variety of tools can be used for making
-the drills or furrows. For those seeds which
-require to be planted deeply,<a id='r2'/><a href='#f2' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[2]</span></sup></a> a draw-hoe is
-a useful tool, or, if this is not available, the
-corner of a rake will suffice. The shallow
-drills can be made with a hoe or rake handle
-or with a pointed stick.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The seeds should be planted immediately
-after the drill is made, before the soil dries up.
-Consult the table in the Appendix showing
-the quantity of seed required to plant a row
-one hundred feet long, and refrain from planting
-too thickly. Being too liberal with seeds
-at planting-time is not only wasteful, but
-also involves a great deal of extra labor later
-on when the young seedlings have to be
-thinned in order to give them room for proper
-development. Sow the seeds as evenly as
-possible and cover by raking the soil over
-them. The soil over the seeds must be
-firmed. In the case of the larger seeds, such
-as peas and beans, this can be done by walking
-along the row. The earth over the smaller
-seeds is best compacted by means of the back
-of a hoe or rake. This firming process is
-carried out in order that the earth may come
-in close contact with the seeds, so that they
-may absorb the moisture contained in it;
-also to establish capillary action with the
-soil below, resulting in moisture being drawn
-up to the surface.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There is a tendency among beginners to
-plant their seeds either on raised ridges or,
-sometimes at the other extreme, in deep
-trenches. The first method is liable to result
-in the plants suffering from drought, and the
-latter in flooding, if it happens to be a wet
-season. There are times when it is advisable
-to make use of these practices, as will be described
-when the methods of cultivation are
-taken up in detail, but speaking generally,
-level cultivation is best.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>After the seeds are planted we are enabled
-to sit back and have a breathing-spell until
-the young plants appear, when it is necessary
-to proceed with thinning and cultivating as
-described in the following chapter.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is the common practice, in connection
-with some crops, not to plant the seeds
-directly where they are to mature, but to
-sow them elsewhere at first and to transplant
-the young plants to their permanent quarters
-later.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In the Northern states the growing-season
-is not sufficiently long to get best results
-from such tropical plants as tomato, egg-plant
-and pepper if the seeds are sown outside. A
-longer growing-season is afforded to these
-plants by raising them in a greenhouse or
-hotbed, and transplanting them to the
-garden when the earth has warmed up and
-danger of frost is over.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Cabbage is transplanted for the reason that
-if the seed was sown directly in the field it
-would be necessary to plant much more seed
-than was actually needed, and because the
-ground can be profitably occupied with
-another crop while the young cabbage plants
-are reaching a sizable condition. Early cabbage
-is also sown in a greenhouse or cold-frame
-in order to hasten the time of maturity.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Although it is possible to raise these transplanted
-crops with no other facilities than
-those provided by the ordinary dwelling-house,
-it is not worth while when only a few
-plants are required. Young plants of tomato,
-egg-plant, pepper, and cabbage can be obtained
-at such a trifling expense from seedsmen
-who make a business of raising them that
-it does not pay to bother with raising them
-yourself.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>An eye should be given to weather conditions
-when transplanting. The plants will
-feel the check less if a cloudy, humid day is
-chosen on which to do the work. The soil
-should be moist, but not so wet as to be
-sticky. The hole for the reception of the
-roots can conveniently be made with a
-trowel. Make it large enough so that the
-roots may be spread out and then press the
-earth gently but firmly around them. If the
-soil is dry leave a shallow depression around
-the stem of each plant to facilitate watering.
-Sufficient water should be applied to soak the
-ground for a depth of six inches or more, and
-when it has drained away from the surface,
-the depression may be filled with loose dry
-earth to prevent the moisture escaping by
-evaporation.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>If for any reason it is necessary to do the
-work of transplanting on a dry, sunny day,
-the young plants should be shaded. This can
-be accomplished by covering them with
-inverted flower-pots, or with newspapers
-weighted at the corners with stones to keep
-them from blowing away, or a shingle or thin
-piece of board may be stuck in the ground on
-the sunny side so that its shadow falls on the
-plant.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In most cases, unless they are grown in
-earthen or paper pots, the root system of the
-plants is injured in transplanting. In order
-to restore the balance between root and
-shoot it is advisable, and customary, to cut
-off part of the leaves. If the whole of the
-leaves are left on the plant they wilt and
-sometimes die because the reduced number
-of roots is unable to supply their demands
-for moisture.</p>
-
-<hr class='footnotemark'/>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_2'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f2'><a href='#r2'>[2]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>See Appendix, <a href='#IIIB'>Table III</a>, for the depth to plant various
-seeds.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='47' id='Page_47'></span></p>
-<div><h1>IX<br/> <span class='sub-head'>HOEING AND THINNING</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>When</span> the young plants appear above
-the ground it is time to commence
-cultivating. This consists of breaking up and
-pulverizing the surface crust. There are
-several reasons for doing this. It allows air
-to enter the soil, which, it will be remembered,
-is a necessity for the roots of plants and has
-an important bearing on the formation of
-plant food. It keeps down the weeds, and,
-most important of all, it helps to conserve the
-moisture in the soil.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>All who have had anything to do with the
-cultivation of the soil will have noticed that
-when its surface is stirred up after a rain it
-quickly dries out. It will also have been
-noticed that, if any one has walked over this
-soil just after it has been stirred up, the soil in
-the footprints remains moist. Why is this?
-It is simply that capillary action has been
-broken by the loosening of the surface, and
-the soil-water rises to the loosened soil and no
-farther. On the other hand, capillary action
-has been restored in those places where the
-soil has been compacted by walking on it, and
-the surface here is moist because moisture is
-continually being supplied from the store
-below. This moisture just as continually
-evaporates during dry weather and is lost as
-far as the plant roots are concerned.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Breaking up the surface soil provides a dust
-mulch or soil blanket which shades the moist
-soil below from the sun’s rays, and in a large
-measure prevents evaporation. Therefore,
-after every rain, just as soon as the soil has
-dried out sufficiently so that it does not stick
-to the tool used, the surface should be
-cultivated.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Various tools are used for this purpose.
-When working close to young plants the
-small hand weeders are useful. Between
-the rows a hoe should be used. These are of
-three types. The <span class='it'>scuffle-hoe</span>, which is pushed
-through the soil just underneath the surface,
-the operator walking backward. This is a
-handy tool for small gardens if the soil is not
-too hard, and its use gives the advantage of
-it not being necessary to walk on the loosened
-soil.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The ordinary <span class='it'>draw-hoe</span> is used with a
-chopping motion and the operator walks forward
-over the loosened soil. It is a good tool
-for getting rid of weeds, and is better than
-the preceding for use in hard or stony
-ground.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are many forms of <span class='it'>wheel-hoes</span> which
-enable the work of cultivating to be done very
-expeditiously. They are pushed forward with
-a jerky motion, one step at a time, pulling the
-implement toward you before making the
-forward thrust, thus gaining momentum
-before the teeth enter the ground. Do not
-attempt to push a wheel-hoe in the same way
-that you would a perambulator—it’s too hard
-work.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>To water or not to water is sometimes a
-debatable point in vegetable-growing. There
-is this much to be said about the application
-of water to the garden. If thorough cultivation
-has been properly attended to there will
-be much less need of watering, and when it is
-decided that watering is necessary, let it be
-thorough, so that the soil is soaked to a depth
-of a foot or so. Then as soon as the soil has
-dried out somewhat, stir up the surface so
-that the moisture is not lost by evaporation.
-The best way to apply water is by means of a
-sprinkler, throwing a fine spray, which can
-be left operating for two or three hours.
-This insures a proper wetting of the soil
-without washing away any of the loose soil
-on the surface. The next best thing is to use
-a hose. The watering-pot is of little use except
-in a very small garden, because one gets
-tired of toting water before the plants have
-been given nearly enough.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In order to obtain good crops it is necessary
-to allow the plants sufficient room to attain
-their full development. They must have
-space in the earth for their roots to ramify in
-search of food, and room above to spread
-their leaves to the air and sunshine. A
-number of seeds, including beet, carrot,
-corn, lettuce, onion, parsnip, radish, spinach,
-and Swiss chard, are sown in such a way
-(in order to insure a good stand) that when
-they germinate the young plants stand too
-close together. These have to be thinned
-out.<a id='r3'/><a href='#f3' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[3]</span></sup></a> This operation should be carried out
-as soon as the seedlings are large enough to
-handle. Choose a cloudy day when the soil
-is fairly moist, and pull out the weak, spindly
-plants, leaving the strong, healthy ones.</p>
-
-<hr class='footnotemark'/>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_3'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f3'><a href='#r3'>[3]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>See Appendix, <a href='#IIIc'>Table III</a>, for distance these plants
-should stand apart.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='51' id='Page_51'></span></p>
-<div><h1>X<br/> <span class='sub-head'>STAKING AND TYING</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Some</span> of our vegetable crops need supports
-of some kind to obtain best results
-from them. Peas, and beans of some varieties,
-and tomatoes are of this nature.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The dwarf peas, which need no supports,
-are the best for the small garden, but if the
-taller kinds, which are more productive, are
-grown it is necessary to supply them with
-something on which to climb. Twiggy brush-wood
-is the best for the purpose, as the pea
-tendrils attach themselves readily to this.
-The bases of the branches should be sharpened
-with a knife and then stuck firmly into
-the ground on either side of the row when the
-peas are a few inches high. Chicken netting
-stretched along the row and supported on
-strong stakes is also suitable.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Pole beans climb by means of twining, and
-poles from six to eight feet high and about
-two inches in diameter are usually supplied
-for them. These poles are inserted in the
-ground by first making a hole with a crowbar.
-Another method of supporting beans is by
-means of V-shaped frames about six feet high
-and three feet wide at the bottom. They can
-be made of light lumber, such as three by one
-or two by two inch rough pine. These are
-spaced from eight to ten feet apart and connected
-by thin strips of lumber along the
-top and along the bases. Strings are fastened
-on one of the base strips, carried over the top
-and fastened to the base strip on the other
-side. These strings should be from six to
-nine inches apart. The beans are planted so
-that there is one bean-plant to each string.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Tomatoes may be left to grow naturally,
-in which case they sprawl over the ground
-and much fruit is spoiled by coming in contact
-with the earth, or they may be staked. If
-grown to a single stem each plant will need
-a stout stake to which it may be attached
-by tying with pieces of cloth or tape about an
-inch wide. If twine were used it would probably
-cut into and injure the soft stems.
-Another way of supporting tomatoes is to
-allow all the shoots to grow at will, but to
-prevent them from falling on the ground by
-placing around each plant three or four stakes
-connected with barrel hoops or with twine.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='53' id='Page_53'></span></p>
-<div><h1>XI<br/> <span class='sub-head'>INSECT ENEMIES</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>To</span> be successful in controlling insect pests,
-preventive or remedial measures must
-be applied early. If spraying is deferred
-until insects infest the plants in large numbers,
-great difficulty is experienced in getting
-rid of them. It is emphatically much easier
-to kill a few insects than a whole host. If
-they are once allowed to obtain the upper
-hand, the crop will be so much injured that
-it frequently will not pay to attempt to
-save it.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The important point that must be grasped
-in connection with the control of insect pests
-is that they may, from the point of view of the
-gardener, be divided into two groups—“biting”
-insects and “sucking” insects.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The biting insects <span class='it'>eat</span> the leaves, roots,
-or stems of the plants attacked, and their
-presence is usually obvious even to a casual
-observer.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The sucking insects obtain their food, not
-by eating the leaves, but by inserting their
-“beaks” into the plant tissue and sucking its
-juices. Since it is not feasible to poison the
-sap of plants to kill the insects, the best
-method is to spray them with what are known
-as “contact” insecticides. These must be
-applied in such a way that they actually come
-in contact with the insects. Soap solutions,
-kerosene emulsion, and nicotine are the
-principal contact sprays.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Sometimes, instead of using sprays it is
-more convenient to use dry insecticides in the
-form of powder. This is particularly the case
-when a spray-pump is unavailable or the
-water supply not close at hand.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>No matter in what form these insecticides
-are applied, the operation must be done
-thoroughly or little benefit will result. The
-contact sprays should be applied with force in
-such a way that every insect is covered. To
-apply the stomach poisons a fine, mist-like
-spray should be used which will coat the
-leaves with a thin film of poison. If too much
-is applied there is a tendency for the mixture
-to run into globules, which concentrates the
-poison at the tip of the leaves. This may
-result in injury to the plants and is not
-effective in coating the whole of the leaves.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The feeding habits of some insects make it
-almost impossible to control them by spraying;
-so traps, poison bait, hand picking, repellents,
-or screening the plants to prevent
-access of insects are resorted to. These
-measures are fully described in connection
-with the insects against which they are used.
-Following are some of the more important
-insect pests.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beets.</span>—<span class='it'>Flea-beetles</span> (small, very active
-insects, as indicated by their name), <span class='it'>blister-beetles</span>,
-and various caterpillars, which eat the
-leaves, attack beets. Lead arsenate<a id='r4'/><a href='#f4' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[4]</span></sup></a> should
-be applied as soon as the injury is noticed.</p>
-
-<hr class='footnotemark'/>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_4'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f4'><a href='#r4'>[4]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Various spray formulas will be found at end of chapter.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cabbage.</span>—Probably the worst insect pest
-of this crop is the <span class='it'>cabbage-worm</span>, a green caterpillar
-which hatches from eggs laid on the
-leaves by the common white butterflies, which
-may be seen flitting about the garden from
-early spring until fall. Spraying the plants
-with arsenate of lead to which a “sticker”
-has been added to make it adhere to the
-leaves is a standard remedy. Cabbage is
-also attacked by flea-beetles and caterpillars
-of various kinds, which are controlled by the
-same methods adopted for the cabbage-worm.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cauliflower.</span>—Same pests as cabbage.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Corn.</span>—The <span class='it'>corn earworm</span> is one of the
-worst of the pests attacking corn. This is a
-caterpillar which at first feeds on the “silk”
-and later penetrates the ear and eats the kernels.
-It is very difficult to control this insect.
-Lead arsenate sprayed or dusted on the silk
-as soon as it appears is a partial remedy.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cucumber.</span>—The <span class='it'>striped cucumber-beetle</span> is
-about a fourth of an inch in length, yellow in
-color, with three black stripes on the wing
-covers. It eats the leaves of the young plants
-and if unchecked ruins the chances of obtaining
-a crop. One of the best ways of dealing
-with this insect is to prevent it from gaining
-access to the plants by the use of cheese-cloth
-or wire mosquito-netting screens. These
-can be made by tacking the material used
-over bottomless boxes, not so high as to shade
-the plants, but of sufficient width and length
-to give them room to grow. Another method
-is to place two or three short sticks in the
-center of the hill and over these spread a
-“tent” of cheese-cloth, holding down the
-edges with stones and earth. Tobacco dust
-sprinkled plentifully over and around the
-plants acts as a repellent.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The <span class='it'>twelve-spotted cucumber-beetle</span> may be
-controlled by the same measures and by
-spraying with lead arsenate.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Egg-plant</span> is subject to the same pests as
-the potato.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Kale</span> and <span class='sc'>Kohlrabi</span> are attacked by the
-same insects that attack cabbage.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Muskmelon</span> is subject to the same insects
-as the cucumber.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Onion.</span>—<span class='it'>Thrips</span> is a tiny insect which infests
-onions, sucks the sap from the leaves,
-and causes them to assume a silvery appearance.
-Most vegetables are subject to its
-attack. It can be controlled by using a
-contact spray, such as nicotine solution or
-kerosene emulsion.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Potato.</span>—The most troublesome insect
-pest of the potato is the well-known <span class='it'>Colorado
-potato-beetle</span>. This may be controlled by picking
-the insects from the plant by hand, or
-by dusting the leaves with Paris green which
-has been diluted by mixing it with fifty times
-its bulk of air-slaked lime. Spraying the
-plants with lead arsenate is even more
-effective.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The <span class='it'>flea-beetle</span> eats small holes in the leaves,
-making them appear as if they had been
-riddled with shot. The spray treatment
-adopted for the <span class='it'>Colorado beetle</span> will also take
-care of them.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Blister-beetles</span> are slender insects varied
-in color which attack potatoes and many
-other vegetables. Lead arsenate is the best
-remedy.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Pumpkin</span> is likely to be affected with the
-same pests as cucumber and squash.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Squash.</span>—This crop is subject to the same
-pests as cucumber. The <span class='it'>squash-bug</span>, or <span class='it'>stink-bug</span>
-(which also attacks cucumbers and
-melons), is grayish-brown in color and about
-three-fourths of an inch long. It exhales a
-very offensive odor which makes hand picking,
-one of the most effective means of controlling
-it, an extremely unpleasant task.
-The measures adopted against the <span class='it'>cucumber-beetles</span>
-are also effective in controlling this
-pest. Other remedies that may be tried are
-the collection and destruction of the conspicuous
-eggs which are to be found in masses
-on the under sides of the leaves, and trapping
-the adults by placing shingles on the
-ground around the plants. The insects will
-congregate under these and can then be
-destroyed by stepping on them.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Tomato.</span>—The <span class='it'>tomato-worm</span>, the larva of a
-Sphinx-moth, sometimes occasions much damage.
-Hand picking is a good remedy, or the
-plants may be sprayed with lead arsenate.
-If the latter course is followed, care must be
-taken to clean the tomatoes thoroughly
-before eating them. The tomato is also
-subject to the same insect pests as the
-potato.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Watermelon</span> is attacked by the same insects
-that infest cucumbers.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Practically all vegetable crops are subject
-to attack by the following insects:</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Aphis</span>, or <span class='sc'>Plant Lice</span>.—These occur in
-both small and large species in a great variety
-of color. They injure the plants by sucking
-their juices, and frequently cause the leaves
-to become curled and deformed. Usually
-these insects are to be found on the soft growing
-tips of the plants or on the under sides of
-the leaves. Prompt application of remedial
-measures is necessary. The green-colored
-forms are usually the easiest to kill, and a
-simple soap solution is generally effective.
-The black <span class='it'>aphids</span> are more tenacious of life,
-and a stronger insecticide must be used, such
-as nicotine solution or kerosene emulsion.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cutworms</span> are the larvæ of several species
-of moths. They are especially partial to
-beans, cabbage, corn, onions, and tomatoes.
-They are usually dark-colored, greasy-looking
-caterpillars which spend most of their time,
-when they are not eating, just underneath the
-surface of the ground. They cut off the
-plants by eating through the stems. Several
-different measures should be in operation at
-the same time to rid a garden of <span class='it'>cutworms</span>.
-One of the most effective is the use of poisoned
-bait, but this is not advisable when live
-stock have access to the garden. The bait
-should be strewed liberally close to the plants.
-Shingles or thin boards may be placed on the
-surface of the soil. The <span class='it'>cutworms</span> will congregate
-under these and can then be killed
-by any means that suggests itself. Hunting
-for them at night, when they are feeding,
-with a lantern or flashlight, is another
-method of reducing their numbers.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Two very important soil pests are <span class='it'>white
-grubs</span> and <span class='it'>wireworms</span>. They attack potatoes
-and the roots of many garden crops. The
-former are large, clumsy, white grubs, the
-larvæ of the June beetle. <span class='it'>Wireworms</span> are
-long, slender, shining grubs, which may be
-of any color from light yellow to dark brown.
-They are the larvæ of click-beetles. It is
-very difficult to control these pests. Frequent,
-deep tilling of the soil is probably the
-best remedy. If chickens are allowed access
-to the garden plot when it is being plowed or
-spaded they will eat a great many of them.
-<span class='it'>Wireworms</span> may be trapped by attracting
-them to buried pieces of carrot or potato.
-These traps must be examined every morning
-and the insects congregated on them killed.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Following are the formulas for the various
-insecticides recommended.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'>STOMACH POISONS FOR BITING INSECTS</h2>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Lead-arsenate Solution</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab2' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 25em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab2c1 tdStyle4'>1 oz. lead arsenate (paste) to 1 gal. of water</td><td class='tab2c2 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab2c1 tdStyle4'>or</td><td class='tab2c2 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab2c1 tdStyle4'>½ oz. lead arsenate (dry) to 1 gal. of water</td><td class='tab2c2 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='pindent'>This can also be obtained as a fine powder
-for dusting upon the plants. This method
-is less economical of material.</p>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Paris Green</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab3' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 10em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 9em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab3c1 tdStyle4'>½ oz. Paris green</td><td class='tab3c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab3c3 tdStyle4'></td><td class='tab3c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab3c1 tdStyle4'>and</td><td class='tab3c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab3c3 tdStyle4'>to 3 gal. of water</td><td class='tab3c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab3c1 tdStyle4'>1½ oz. lime</td><td class='tab3c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab3c3 tdStyle4'></td><td class='tab3c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When using Paris green as a powder it is
-advisable to dilute it with from twenty-five to
-fifty times its bulk of air-slaked lime. This
-acts as a carrier and renders it possible to
-distribute the poison more economically and
-effectively. It is inadvisable to use these
-poisons, Paris green and arsenate of lead,
-on heading cabbages or vegetables that are
-shortly to be eaten, as there is some danger
-of poisoning the consumers.</p>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Pyrethrum Powder</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab4' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 17.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab4c1 tdStyle2'>1 oz. pyrethrum to 2 gal. of water</td><td class='tab4c2 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='noindent'>Can also be applied as a powder. It is a good
-insecticide for use on vegetables that are
-shortly to be eaten, as there is no danger of
-poisoning human beings by its use. Can also
-be used as a contact spray.</p>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Hellebore Powder</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab5' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 17.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab5c1 tdStyle2'>2 oz. hellebore to 1 gal. of water</td><td class='tab5c2 tdStyle2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The hellebore should first be boiled in
-water and then diluted to make one gallon.
-It is very similar in its action to pyrethrum.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'>CONTACT INSECTICIDES FOR SUCKING INSECTS</h2>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Soap Solution</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab6' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 17.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab6c1 tdStyle2'>2 oz. laundry soap to 1 gal. of water</td><td class='tab6c2 tdStyle2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Nicotine Solution</span></h3>
-
-<table id='tab7' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 10em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 9em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab7c1 tdStyle4'>½ oz. 40% nicotine</td><td class='tab7c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab7c3 tdStyle4'></td><td class='tab7c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab7c1 tdStyle4'>and</td><td class='tab7c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab7c3 tdStyle4'>to 3 gal. of water</td><td class='tab7c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab7c1 tdStyle4'>1 oz. soap</td><td class='tab7c2 tdStyle4'>}</td><td class='tab7c3 tdStyle4'></td><td class='tab7c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='noindent'>The soap is added to this solution to assist
-in spreading the mixture and to make it come
-in close contact with the insects.</p>
-
-<h3 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Resin Fish-oil Soap</span></h3>
-
-<p class='noindent'>Is recommended by U. S. Department of
-Agriculture to be added to contact sprays
-and fungicides, to act as a “sticker” when
-they are to be used on crops with smooth
-leaves to which the spray will not stick.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Use two ounces to three gallons of spray
-mixture.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'>POISON BAIT FOR CUTWORMS</h2>
-
-<table id='tab8' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 17.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab8c1 tdStyle3'>3 lbs. wheat bran</td><td class='tab8c2 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab8c1 tdStyle3'>2 oz. white arsenic or powdered lead arsenate</td><td class='tab8c2 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab8c1 tdStyle3'>½ pint cheap molasses</td><td class='tab8c2 tdStyle2'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<p class='noindent'>Mix all together and add enough water to
-make a mash that will stick together. This
-is very poisonous and extreme care must be
-exercised in its use.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='64' id='Page_64'></span></p>
-<div><h1>XII<br/> <span class='sub-head'>PLANT DISEASES</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Most</span> of our vegetable crops are subject
-to attack by fungus or bacterial parasites
-which cause disease. Preventive measures
-are the most important in combating ills
-of this nature. These may consist of providing
-unfavorable soil conditions for the disease,
-as in the case of cabbage clubroot, or disinfection
-of the “seed” as practised for the control
-of scab of potatoes. Other measures are:
-the application of protective sprays, which
-kill the spores of disease organisms when
-they germinate; rotation of crops; planting
-disease-resistant varieties; and the avoidance
-of material carrying spores of disease, such
-as manure containing parts of diseased plants.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Bordeaux mixture</span> is the standard fungicide.
-The formula which calls for four
-ounces lump lime, four ounces copper sulphate
-(bluestone) and three gallons of water is the
-one most commonly used.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is made by dissolving four ounces of
-bluestone in an earthenware or wooden
-vessel in one and one-half gallons of water.
-The lime is slaked in another vessel by adding
-water gradually until it forms a mixture of a
-milky consistency. Add more water to make
-one and one-half gallons and strain through
-cheese-cloth. After it has been strained it
-should be thoroughly mixed with the copper-sulphate
-solution and used immediately.
-Bordeaux mixture made in this way will not
-keep, but should be applied the same day.
-Stock solutions of copper sulphate and lime
-will keep indefinitely if they are not mixed
-together.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Liver of sulphur (potassium sulphide)</span> is
-valuable for spraying plants affected with
-mildew. Use one ounce dissolved in three
-gallons of water. This solution discolors
-paint.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The following are some of the common
-diseases affecting vegetable crops:</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beans</span> are attacked by <span class='it'>anthracnose</span>. It
-causes dark-colored, sunken spots to appear
-on the leaves, stems, and pods. It frequently
-penetrates to the seeds. Infected
-seeds should never be planted. It pays to
-look over all beans that are to be used for
-seed and destroy all that are discolored.
-Never work among the bean-plants when they
-are wet, as the disease, if it is present, is
-easily spread by this means.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Beets</span> are subject to a <span class='it'>leaf-spot</span>. This
-causes small, round, dead spots to appear on
-the leaves. Bordeaux mixture applied as
-soon as the spots appear and at intervals of
-one or two weeks will check this disease.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cabbage.</span>—<span class='it'>Clubroot</span> is a disease which
-causes the roots of cabbage, cauliflower,
-kohlrabi, and allied plants to become swollen
-and deformed, and prevents them from
-functioning properly. If it is not noticed
-at transplanting-time the first indication of
-its presence is the sudden wilting of the
-plants. All affected plants should be destroyed.
-The seedbed and that part of the
-garden where the cabbages are to be planted
-should be limed two or three months before
-planting. Use between fifty and sixty pounds
-of air-slaked lime on a plot twenty by twenty
-feet, and thoroughly mix it with the soil.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Corn.</span>—<span class='it'>Corn smut</span> usually appears as swellings,
-covered with a silvery membrane, on
-the tassels or ears. These break open later
-and disclose the masses of dark-colored spores.
-The swellings should be cut off and destroyed
-before they burst.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cucumber.</span>—<span class='it'>Anthracnose, angular leafspot</span>,
-and <span class='it'>downy mildew</span> are diseases attacking
-the leaves of cucumbers which can be controlled
-to some extent by frequent spraying
-with Bordeaux mixture. This should be applied
-as soon as the diseases are noticed and
-repeated at intervals of one or two weeks.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Peas</span> are affected by a <span class='it'>mildew</span> which shows
-itself on the leaves and pods as a whitish
-mold. The plants should be dusted with
-powdered sulphur, or sprayed with potassium-sulphide
-solution to which resin fish-oil soap
-has been added to make it stick to the leaves.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Potato.</span>—Two important diseases affecting
-potatoes are <span class='it'>scab</span> and <span class='it'>late blight</span>. The
-former is a disease which lives in the soil and
-is also carried over on infected potatoes.
-It shows itself as scabby spots on the tubers.
-Seed potatoes can be disinfected by soaking
-them, before they are cut, for two hours in a
-solution of one part Formalin to two hundred
-and forty parts water. This treatment will
-not prevent scab if the soil is already infected.
-An alkaline soil favors the growth of this
-disease.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Late blight</span> appears late in the season and
-causes the leaves to blacken, become watery,
-and decay, often accompanied with an
-offensive odor. The disease also penetrates
-the tubers and renders them unfit for storage
-purposes. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture
-is practised as a preventive measure. It
-should be applied when the plants are six
-inches high, and repeated at intervals of about
-ten days until the crop is mature. Crops can
-be obtained without spraying, but Bordeaux
-mixture may be considered as a form of insurance.
-Lead arsenate may be added to
-the Bordeaux mixture if potato-beetles are
-present.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Tomato.</span>—<span class='it'>Tomato leaf-spot</span> is a disease
-which causes dark-brown spots to appear on
-the leaves. The areas attacked shrivel and
-die. Spray with Bordeaux mixture.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is just as important to apply remedial or
-preventive measures early in the case of
-diseases as it is in controlling insect pests.
-Fine mist-like sprays should be used as
-recommended for applying stomach poisons,
-and for the same reason.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='69' id='Page_69'></span></p>
-<div><h1>XIII<br/> <span class='sub-head'>THE CULTURE OF VEGETABLES IN DETAIL</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>This</span> chapter is devoted to hints on the
-cultivation of the more important
-vegetables, together with some mention of
-varieties suited for “war-garden” planting.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Artichoke, Jerusalem.</span>—This has about
-the same food value as the potato, but, unfortunately,
-it is a rather tasteless product.
-Proper cooking, with the addition of sauces
-and condiments, will make it palatable. It
-is a tall, coarse-growing plant belonging to the
-sunflower family. If you have an out-of-the-way
-spot in your garden where nothing else
-will grow, try a few artichokes. It needs sunshine,
-but is not particular as to soil. It
-should be planted in the spring on ground that
-has had a dressing of barn-yard manure
-spaded in. Plant the tubers a foot apart in
-rows two feet apart. The plant is a perennial,
-and likely to become a troublesome weed
-unless restricted to one corner of the garden.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beans.</span>—This group comprises some of the
-most important of garden vegetables.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The various types of beans differ greatly in
-their requirements, and there is scarcely any
-kind of soil or climate that will support
-vegetation, where beans of one kind or another
-cannot be grown.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Most of the beans are very susceptible to
-cold and must not be planted until the soil
-has warmed up and all danger of frost is past.
-There is one kind, however, belonging to a
-different genus than the common beans,
-which is not harmed by frost and which requires
-a long, cool season to develop properly.
-This is the broad, or Windsor, bean. A rich
-clay loam is best suited to this plant, and the
-seeds must be planted just as soon as the
-ground is in condition to be worked on in
-the spring. Plant them in rows two feet
-apart, and three inches apart in the rows.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The ordinary garden beans can be divided
-into two groups—the pole beans, which can be
-subdivided into those of the string and Lima
-types; and the bush beans, comprising string-beans,
-green and wax podded, green-shell
-beans, dry-shell beans, and Limas.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The pole beans, especially the Limas, are
-very susceptible to cold and cannot be
-planted outdoors in the vicinity of New
-York until toward the end of May, and not
-until June if it happens to be a cool season.
-They require a light, fertile soil for their best
-development. Seeds can be planted in hills
-three feet apart each way, placing three or
-four seeds in each hill. Poles must be provided
-for them to climb on and these should
-be in place before the seeds are planted.
-They can also be planted and trained on a
-trellis, as described in Chapter X.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Bush beans of the string type are less
-affected by cold than the preceding, but are
-not very hardy in this respect. They may
-be planted as soon as danger of frost is past
-if the ground is not too cold and wet. The
-distance between the rows should be about
-eighteen inches, the plants standing from
-three to four inches apart in the rows. Bush
-beans will grow in a variety of soils ranging
-from those of a sandy nature to clay loams,
-but they grow best in sandy loam. Shell
-beans of the Improved Navy type (pea-beans)
-are especially adapted for planting in
-sandy soils.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Bush Lima beans require the same kind of
-soil as the pole beans, and should be planted
-at the same time. Make the rows two feet
-apart, with the plants from six to nine
-inches apart in the row.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The following are good varieties. Of the
-dwarf, wax-podded kinds <span class='it'>Rust-proof Golden
-Wax</span> and <span class='it'>Burpee’s Kidney</span> are desirable.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Bountiful</span>, a flat-podded type, and <span class='it'>Valentine</span>,
-a round-podded kind, are good examples
-of dwarf, green snap-beans.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In the pole beans we have <span class='it'>Golden Carmine</span>
-and <span class='it'>Golden Cluster</span>, both wax-pods, and
-<span class='it'>Kentucky Wonder</span>, an excellent, green snap-bean
-and also suitable for providing dry-shell
-beans.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Of beans that are grown for their seeds the
-following may be noted: <span class='it'>Dwarf Horticultural</span>
-(can also be used as a snap-bean), <span class='it'>Improved
-Navy</span>, and <span class='it'>White Marrow</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The Limas are represented by two forms,
-the dwarf and the climbing kinds. Good
-dwarf Limas are <span class='it'>Burpee’s Improved</span>, and <span class='it'>Fordhook</span>.
-For planting in the Northern states,
-<span class='it'>Leviathan</span>, which is a quick-maturing variety,
-is very suitable. This and <span class='it'>King of the Garden</span>,
-a very productive kind, are pole, or
-climbing, Limas.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beets</span> are one of the hardy vegetables
-which can be planted as soon as the ground
-has been prepared in the spring. There are
-two distinct kinds of beets—those which have
-a globular or flat root, and those with a long,
-tapering root. The latter are of slower
-growth than the round kinds, and are very
-suitable for winter storage, but their cultivation
-should not be attempted unless the
-soil is deep and of a sandy nature. The globe
-beets are the best for the home gardener.
-For the first planting a quick-maturing kind,
-such as <span class='it'>Crosby’s Egyptian</span>, should be chosen.
-For later plantings <span class='it'>Detroit Dark Red</span> is suitable,
-and this is a good variety to plant toward
-the end of June or early July to form
-roots suitable for winter storage. Beets can
-be planted in rows from twelve to eighteen
-inches apart. After the seedlings have
-reached a height of two or three inches they
-should be thinned out to stand four inches
-apart in the row. If desired, these thinnings
-may be taken up carefully, so as not to break
-the roots, and transplanted in another part
-of the garden. Another plan is to defer thinning
-until the plants are from four to six
-inches in height, and then use the thinnings
-as “greens.” Beets will grow in almost any
-soil, but the best crops are produced on
-sandy loams.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cabbage</span> may be grown as an early crop,
-to mature around June or July, or as a late
-crop, to mature in the fall.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The early crop is usually produced from
-seeds sown in a greenhouse or hotbed in
-February or early March, the young plants
-being set out in April. They require plenty
-of room for development and should be
-planted so as to stand from eighteen inches to
-two feet apart in the rows, the rows being
-two and one-half to three feet apart. <span class='it'>Early
-Jersey Wakefield</span> is the variety commonly
-grown for an early crop.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Seeds for the late crop can be sown in May.
-If sown outdoors, a plot of rich, sandy soil
-(a square yard will produce an ample supply
-of seedlings for most home gardens) should
-be chosen. If the plot has been limed a short
-time previous it is an advantage, as an
-alkaline soil lessens the liability to club root,
-a disease which prevents proper development
-of the cabbage. The resultant seedlings
-should be set out in July. As late cabbages
-are stronger growers and form larger
-heads than the early kinds, they should be
-given more room—three feet between the
-rows and two feet apart in the rows. A
-standard variety for late planting is <span class='it'>Flat
-Dutch</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Cabbages will succeed in a variety of soils,
-but to get best results heavy applications of
-decayed stable manure should be incorporated
-with the soil before planting. Surface dressings
-of nitrate of soda are also beneficial.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Carrot.</span>—This crop can be planted any
-time after the ground is in condition in the
-spring up to July, which is a suitable time to
-sow seeds for the crop designed for winter
-storage. The quick-maturing kinds, such as
-<span class='it'>Early Scarlet Horn</span>, should be sown first,
-choosing the warmest position in the garden.
-These will be ready for use in a short time,
-when they may be harvested and the ground
-used for another crop. For later crops
-<span class='it'>Danver’s Half-long</span> may be used. Carrot
-seed should be sown in rows a foot or fifteen
-inches apart and one-half inch deep. The
-early varieties should be thinned to stand
-about two inches apart, while the main crop
-needs about four inches between each plant.
-Some people defer the thinning of their carrots
-until they are of sufficient size for the table.
-“Baby” carrots are one of the most delicious
-of vegetables when they are properly cooked,
-far preferable to the roots that have been
-allowed to mature. While this plan has great
-advantages, the carrots left behind do not
-attain so great a size as would be the case if
-thinning had been attended to earlier.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A deep, well-cultivated soil is the best for
-this crop. In heavy soils that have not been
-deeply worked, the short-rooted kinds, such
-as <span class='it'>Ox-heart</span>, should be planted.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cauliflower.</span>—The cultivation of cauliflower
-is substantially the same as that of
-cabbage. It is a cool-weather crop, and not
-much success is likely to be obtained if
-attempts are made to mature it during hot
-weather. For this reason it is either planted
-early, or as late as possible consistent with
-the prospects of maturing the crop. It requires
-a light, rich soil. When the heads
-begin to form, it is advisable to bend the
-outside leaves over and fasten them in such
-a way that the head is shaded from the sun.
-Cauliflower is emphatically not a crop for
-the novice.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Celery.</span>—There are two distinct kinds of
-celery—the so-called “self-blanching” varieties,
-and the green-leaf kinds. The former are
-the earliest to mature, but are not to be compared
-for flavor and tenderness with the latter.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Seed of the early kinds, of which <span class='it'>White
-Plume</span> is an example, is sown in February in a
-greenhouse or hotbed. The young plants
-should be transplanted once or twice, either
-in shallow boxes filled with earth or in the
-open ground, before the plants are set out
-where they are to mature, in May or June.
-Celery naturally forms a long “tap root”
-with few fibers. The object of the successive
-transplantings is to check this “tap root”
-and promote the formation of a mass of
-fibrous feeding-roots. The plants are placed
-in single or double rows thirty inches or three
-feet apart, and from four to six inches apart
-in the rows. When they attain sufficient size
-they are blanched by placing boards, a foot
-wide and as long as can conveniently be
-handled, on either side of the row. Other
-methods of blanching are by slipping a
-drain-pipe over each plant or by wrapping
-around them a collar made of stout paper and
-tying it in place with twine.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Seed of late celery is sown about the same
-time as the early kinds, or a few weeks later,
-and the procedure is the same up until
-planting-time, which is early in July. Late
-celery is of stronger growth than the early
-varieties and needs more room for its development.
-The plants should be set in
-rows three and a half to four feet apart, and
-six inches apart in the rows. In some sections
-it is customary to dig a trench six inches or
-more deep and plant the celery in this. By
-this means watering is facilitated, and it is
-easier to blanch the celery later on. This
-method is not advisable when the good soil is
-shallow, as it results in the roots being
-placed in the infertile subsoil. Blanching of
-late celery is usually effected by mounding
-the stalks with earth dug from between the
-rows. Two persons can most advantageously
-perform this operation, one holding the
-stalks together so that the soil does not fall
-into the heart, the other mounding up the
-soil and patting it into position with the
-back of a spade.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is not worth while to attempt to grow
-celery unless a rich, moist soil is available.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Good varieties of “self-blanching” celery
-are <span class='it'>White Plume</span> and <span class='it'>Golden Self-blanching</span>.
-Among the best of the “green-leaf” kinds are
-<span class='it'>Giant Pascal</span> and <span class='it'>Winter Queen</span>. The latter
-variety has a splendid flavor and keeps well
-into the winter.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Chard.</span>—One of the easiest to grow and
-most productive of the pot herbs is Swiss
-chard, “silver beet” or “leaf beet” as it is
-sometimes called. The seeds should be
-sown in rows about eighteen inches apart.
-When the plants are about four inches high
-they can be thinned so as to stand six inches
-apart and the thinnings used as “greens.”
-Later on alternate plants should be taken out,
-so that finally each plant is a foot away from
-the next. After this stage is arrived at the
-chard should be picked by pulling off the
-outside leaves.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are two varieties listed in the catalogues.
-One, <span class='it'>Lucullus</span>, has crumpled leaves
-and very broad, thick, white midribs. This
-is the variety that should be grown when it
-is desired to cook and serve the midribs
-separately, after the fashion of asparagus.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Swiss chard is a form of beet which does
-not produce edible roots. Nitrate of soda,
-as recommended for kohlrabi, is an excellent
-fertilizer for this crop.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Corn</span>, the most delectable of all vegetables,
-should receive the attention of all
-home gardeners who have sufficient room and
-a fairly rich soil. This is a vegetable the
-flavor of which rapidly deteriorates after the
-ears have been removed from the plant;
-therefore the store article can never be as
-good as the home-grown kind.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The hill and drill methods of planting each
-have their vehement advocates. Good crops
-can be obtained either way, but the drill
-method is probably best for the small garden.
-The seeds are planted in drills two inches
-deep, dropping two or three seeds at every
-foot. When they germinate, all but the
-strongest plant should be pulled up from each
-group. The rows can be two and a half feet
-apart for the small-growing kinds like <span class='it'>Golden
-Bantam</span>, and three feet for the larger varieties
-such as <span class='it'>Stowell’s Evergreen</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When the hill system of cultivation is
-adopted, five or six seeds are planted in
-spaces two and a half or three feet apart each
-way. The young plants are thinned out to
-stand three or four to a hill.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Corn needs to be frequently hoed to get
-best results.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Several methods may be adopted in order to
-insure a succession of corn for the table. A
-quick-maturing variety may be planted at intervals
-of three weeks up to the middle of July,
-or, early, midseason, and late varieties may
-be planted at the same time in May or June.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The removal of the side shoots which
-appear in the axils of the leaves at the base
-of the plant should be attended to. This is
-known as “suckering.” It causes the vigor
-of the plant to be concentrated in the production
-of ears instead of being frittered
-away on side shoots or “suckers” which will
-never amount to anything.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Corn should not be planted until the soil
-has warmed up and danger of frost is past.
-It is permissible, however, to take a chance
-with a few rows by sowing early, in the hope
-that they will come through all right—say
-about the end of April or beginning of May
-in those sections which possess a climate
-similar to that of New York.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cucumbers</span> are a crop that requires a fair
-amount of room for proper development.
-They should be planted in hills five feet
-apart each way, with four or five plants in
-each hill; or in rows five feet apart, with the
-plants standing about one foot apart in the
-rows. The seeds should not be planted outdoors
-until all danger of frost is past. An
-early crop can be obtained by raising the
-plants in a greenhouse by sowing the seeds
-early in berry-boxes and transplanting outdoors
-when the weather is warm enough. It
-is a good plan, when planting outdoors, to
-sow the seeds rather thickly, about ten seeds
-to a hill, so as to get a good stand and lessen
-the risk of losing the plants by insect attacks.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The soil most suitable for cucumbers is a
-sandy loam that has been well enriched with
-decayed stable manure. They will succeed
-admirably on newly broken sod land.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The best cucumbers for outdoor planting
-are those belonging to the “white spine”
-type, of which <span class='it'>Davis Perfect</span> is a good example.
-For supplying small cucumbers for
-pickling, <span class='it'>Fordhook Pickling</span> is one of the best
-varieties to grow.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Egg-plant</span> is a tropical plant which will
-not mature its fruits in the Northern states
-unless its season of growth is lengthened by
-starting the plants in a greenhouse or hotbed.
-It is very susceptible to cold and it is scarcely
-safe to set the young plants outdoors until
-June in the latitude of New York. Egg-plant
-requires a sunny position and a warm,
-light, fertile soil. It can be planted in rows
-two and a half to three feet apart, two feet
-being allowed between the plants in the
-rows. <span class='it'>Black Beauty</span> is a standard variety.
-<span class='it'>Early Long Purple</span> is a quick-maturing kind.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Kale.</span>—The cultivation of kale is practically
-that of late cabbage. It is an extremely
-hardy vegetable and will stand a great deal
-of frost.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Kohlrabi</span> is another member of the cabbage
-group. It is desirable to mature it
-quickly, as slow-grown plants are woody and
-inedible. This quick growth is effected by
-planting in rich soil and by giving top-dressings
-of nitrate of soda at the rate of one ounce
-to ten feet of row. The swollen stems should
-be eaten when they are about two inches in
-diameter. <span class='it'>Early Vienna</span>, either white or
-purple top, is a good variety. The seeds
-may be sown in the spring just as soon as
-the ground can be worked, in rows from
-fifteen to eighteen inches apart. When the
-young plants are large enough they are
-thinned to stand six inches apart in the
-rows; if so desired, the thinnings may be
-used as “greens.”</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Lettuce</span>, the most important salad crop,
-requires a rich, sandy soil. It is seldom that
-it will “head” properly in city backyards,
-because of unsuitable soil and other adverse
-conditions. Lettuce is a cool-weather crop,
-and during the hot days of summer the
-greatest difficulty is experienced in growing it.
-There are several different types. The loose-leaf
-kinds, those that do not form a head,
-are the easiest to grow. The other forms are
-the Romaine, or Cos, which makes a columnar
-head, and the ordinary kind, or cabbage
-lettuce.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The seeds should be planted shallowly in
-rows a foot or eighteen inches apart, and
-afterward the young plants must be thinned
-to stand ten or twelve inches apart in the
-row. A row twenty feet long is enough to
-plant at one sowing. Other plantings should
-be made at intervals of two or three weeks,
-so as to provide a succession. During hot
-weather the plants are benefited by being
-shaded with cheese-cloth screens. These
-can be conveniently made by tacking cheese-cloth
-on lath frames of suitable size, which
-should be supported on stakes driven into
-the ground.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Quick growth is essential to obtain crisp,
-well-flavored lettuce. This can partially be
-brought about by the use of nitrate of soda,
-as recommended for kohlrabi. Avoid getting
-any of the nitrate on the leaves of the plants,
-as it will burn them.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Good varieties of lettuce are <span class='it'>May King</span>
-and <span class='it'>Hanson</span>, belonging to the cabbage-head
-type; <span class='it'>Grand Rapids</span>, a loose-leaf variety; and
-<span class='it'>Paris White Cos</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In cities sparrows are frequently troublesome
-to growers of lettuce, as they are fond of
-picking off the leaves of the young plants.
-Protection is effected by stretching several
-strands of strong thread a few inches above
-the rows. The sparrows become very suspicious
-of an arrangement of this kind, and
-it is usually efficacious in keeping them away
-from the plants.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Muskmelon.</span>—The cultivation of this crop
-is very much like that of cucumber. Muskmelons
-are rather more susceptible to cold
-than the latter, and in consequence the soil
-and air must be warm before they are planted.
-The soil must be well drained or they will not
-succeed. When they have to be planted on
-land that is cold and poorly drained it is a
-good plan to plant them on ridges or mounds,
-about two feet across, raised six inches or so
-above the general level. This assists the
-soil in warming up and insures better drainage.
-A layer of decayed manure about three
-inches thick, buried in the hills where the
-plants are to grow, greatly helps this crop and
-others of a similar nature, such as cucumbers,
-squash, and pumpkin. Frequent cultivation
-of the surface soil is necessary to stimulate
-growth, keep down weeds, and conserve
-moisture, when the plants are young. Good
-varieties of muskmelon are <span class='it'>Emerald Gem</span>, a
-small or salmon-fleshed form, and <span class='it'>Rocky Ford</span>
-and <span class='it'>Hackensack</span>, which are of medium size
-with green flesh.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Okra.</span>—The cultivation of okra is very
-similar to that of corn, although otherwise
-they have nothing else in common. It
-succeeds best in a sandy, well-fertilized loam.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Onion.</span>—There are two ways of producing
-a crop of onions—from “sets” and from
-seed. “Sets” are small onions produced by
-sowing seed very thickly in rather poor soil
-and allowing the plants to mature as they
-stand. This results in a crop of small bulbs
-which are stored over the winter and sold the
-following spring as onion “sets.” There are
-two methods of raising onions from seed.
-The plants may be obtained by sowing the
-seed in a greenhouse in February, transplanting
-the seedlings to the open ground in
-April. The procedure most commonly followed,
-however, is to plant the seeds in rows
-a foot apart, in the position where they are to
-mature, as early as possible in the spring.
-When the young plants appear they are
-thinned to four inches apart. If the seedlings
-are left until they are the thickness of a lead-pencil
-they may be pulled and used as a salad
-in the form of bunch onions.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A crop can be produced earlier by the use
-of “sets.” These are planted in furrows two
-inches deep, spacing them two inches apart.
-The soil is then drawn over them and firmed.
-After some growth has been made, alternate
-plants may be pulled out and used as salad,
-leaving the remainder to mature.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Thorough preparation of the soil is essential
-to achieve success in growing onions. It
-should be dug up as deeply as possible,
-thoroughly pulverized, and afterward compacted
-by rolling with a garden roller or by
-tramping. Onions succeed best on soil which
-is fairly retentive of moisture and rich in
-nitrogen. Top-dressings of hen or sheep
-manure, or of nitrate of soda, are beneficial
-to this crop. Remember what has been said
-previously with regard to taking care not to
-apply too much of any of these fertilizers.
-Weeding is a very important operation in
-connection with onion-growing, and some of
-it, when the weeds are close to or in the rows,
-has to be done by hand. If the weeds are
-allowed to obtain a headway the crop will
-suffer greatly in consequence.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In wet seasons, and when planted in rich,
-retentive soils, the bulbs sometimes fail to
-mature at the proper time. When they show
-signs of growing too late in the fall, it is
-customary to go over the plot and break
-over the tops. This can be done by dragging
-a board over the onion-bed, or, if the plot is a
-small one, it may be done by hand. This
-process arrests growth and causes the bulbs
-to mature so that they are suitable for winter
-storage. Immature bulbs will not keep
-properly.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Standard varieties of onion are <span class='it'>Yellow
-Danvers</span> and <span class='it'>Southport Globe</span>, which can be
-obtained in red, white, and yellow forms.
-<span class='it'>Prize-taker</span> is a very large, mild onion which
-succeeds best when started in a greenhouse.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Parsley</span> succeeds best in a clay loam soil
-that has been well fertilized with stable
-manure. The seeds are slow to germinate
-and it is frequently four or five weeks before
-the young plants show themselves above the
-ground. Growth may be hastened by soaking
-the seeds in tepid water for twenty-four
-hours before sowing them. They should be
-planted in rows a foot apart and the young
-plants thinned to stand six inches apart.
-<span class='it'>Champion Moss Curled</span> is a good variety.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Parsnip.</span>—A long season is required for
-the development of large roots. The seeds
-should be sown in April in rows from fifteen
-to eighteen inches apart, afterward thinning
-the seedlings so that they stand six inches
-apart. The seeds are slow in germinating and
-it is a good plan to sow a few seeds of radish
-in the drill with them. The radishes germinate
-quickly and serve to break the surface
-crust and to mark the row so that cultivation
-may be performed close to the row without
-disturbing the parsnip seeds. The radishes
-are mature and can be pulled and used for
-the table by the time the parsnips have appeared
-above the ground.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A deep, loamy soil is most suited for the
-production of parsnips. In a shallow soil the
-roots are likely to be stunted and misshapen.
-The following method of producing extra-large
-and well-shaped roots is sometimes used
-by exhibitors of vegetables. Holes about
-two feet deep and three inches in diameter
-at the top are made in the ground with a
-crowbar at intervals of about nine inches.
-These holes are filled with sifted fertile earth,
-and three or four seeds planted in each.
-When the seedlings appear, all but the
-strongest are pulled out. This method is
-only to be recommended when it is desired
-to walk off with the prize for the best parsnips
-at the county fair or the town vegetable
-show. <span class='it'>Hollow Crown</span> is a good variety.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Peas</span> are essentially a cool-weather crop,
-and they especially resent hot, dry conditions
-at the root. For this reason the seeds
-should be planted just as soon as the ground
-is workable in the spring. The dwarf varieties
-can be planted in double rows about six
-inches apart, leaving a space of eighteen
-inches or two feet between each double row.
-The tall varieties, which need support of
-some kind, may be planted in the same way,
-but a space varying from three to five feet
-must be allowed between the rows, according
-to the height of the variety planted. The
-taller the variety, the greater is the necessity
-for ample space between the rows.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is said to be possible to produce a crop
-of peas in the fall by sowing the seeds in
-August, but the writer has never seen much
-success attained with a crop at this season;
-at any rate, not in the vicinity of New York.
-For a late crop of peas it is advisable to dig a
-trench from six to eight inches deep and sow
-the seeds in this, covering them with two
-inches of soil, as usual. Water them thoroughly
-if the weather is dry. As the plants
-grow the earth should be gradually drawn
-into the trench until it is filled up to the surrounding
-level. This system is adopted so
-that the roots may be well down in the earth
-and thus protected from the hot rays of the
-sun. This is also a good method to adopt
-for late spring plantings of peas.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A fairly fertile, loamy soil, well drained, but
-of a retentive nature, is most suited to peas.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>First of All</span>, thirty inches high, is a good
-variety of the smooth-seeded type of pea.
-This type does not possess such a good flavor
-as the wrinkled-seeded kinds, but the seeds
-are not likely to rot if planted in cold, wet
-soil. <span class='it'>Nott’s Excelsior</span> is an excellent dwarf
-variety of the wrinkled-seed type. Of the
-tall kinds, <span class='it'>Alderman</span>, five feet in height,
-<span class='it'>Gradus</span>, thirty inches, and <span class='it'>Champion of
-England</span>, five feet, are to be recommended.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Peppers</span> require very much the same conditions
-as tomatoes and egg-plant, except that
-they may be planted somewhat closer together.
-The rows should be from eighteen inches to
-two feet apart, with the plants spaced from
-one to two feet apart in the rows. <span class='it'>Bull Nose</span>
-and <span class='it'>Chinese Giant</span> are good examples of the
-mild, sweet kinds, with <span class='it'>Golden Queen</span> to give
-color variation in the salad made from them.
-<span class='it'>Long Red Cayenne</span> and <span class='it'>Red Chili</span> should be
-chosen if the peppery varieties are desired.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Potato.</span>—The largest crops of potatoes are
-produced in cool, moist, climates such as are
-found in Great Britain, parts of Europe, and,
-in the United States, in Maine and Michigan.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The soils best suited for potatoes are
-fertile, rather sandy loams which should be
-fairly retentive of moisture. A soil of this
-nature which has been heavily fertilized with
-barn-yard manure the preceding year may be
-considered ideal for potato culture. The
-use of barn-yard manure, particularly if it is
-fresh, is inadvisable if the soil contains a good
-proportion of humus and is in good physical
-condition. It is claimed that the practice of
-using barn-yard manure the current season
-causes the crop to be more susceptible to
-attacks of potato scab. Many of the largest
-growers of potatoes refrain from fertilizing
-directly with barn-yard manure, but rely
-instead on the use of commercial fertilizers.
-These may be applied broadcast over the
-field in the spring, after the soil has been
-plowed, and harrowed in. If only a small
-quantity of fertilizer is available, it is preferable
-to apply it by spreading it in the furrows,
-but thoroughly mixing it in the soil before
-the potatoes are planted. The fertilizer obtainable
-from most seedsmen under the name
-of “potato manure” can safely be used in the
-furrows at the rate of five pounds to a plot of
-four hundred square feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>“Seed” potatoes should consist of medium-sized
-tubers, Northern grown, and free from
-disease. Although whole potatoes may be
-planted, the usual practice is to cut them into
-pieces, each piece containing two or three
-“eyes,” or buds. When cutting the potatoes
-for sets make each piece as “chunky” as
-possible so that there is a good-sized piece of
-potato for the “eyes” to draw upon for their
-food supply until they have formed a root
-system of their own.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are two methods of planting potatoes—in
-hills and in furrows or rows. In the hill
-system of planting, the plants are spaced from
-two to three feet apart either way, the distance
-being dependent on the vigor of the
-variety. When planted in furrows the rows
-are spaced from two to three feet apart and
-the sets placed from twelve to eighteen inches
-apart in the rows. The early varieties may
-be planted about four inches deep, and the
-late varieties about six inches.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When the shoots appear above the ground
-the surface soil should be cultivated to conserve
-moisture and to keep down weeds.
-Later in the season when the tubers are
-being formed it is customary to hill them up
-with earth so as to cover the tubers and
-prevent “greening,” and also to assist in
-keeping the roots cool.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The potato is particularly susceptible to
-environmental conditions. A variety that
-may be an excellent cropper in one section
-may be an utter failure in another. It is
-thus difficult to recommend any particular
-variety. The best plan for those who are to
-attempt the cultivation of potatoes is to
-make inquiry in the neighborhood with a
-view to finding the variety that is most
-successful in that locality.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The following are standard varieties that
-are widely grown: early varieties—<span class='it'>Irish
-Cobbler</span>, <span class='it'>Early Rose</span>, <span class='it'>Early Ohio</span>; main-crop
-varieties—<span class='it'>Carman No. 1</span>, <span class='it'>Green Mountain</span>,
-and <span class='it'>Rural New-Yorker</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Pumpkins</span> will succeed under practically the
-same conditions as outlined for cucumber and
-melon. They are also subject to the same insect
-pests. This crop is frequently grown in
-the corn-patch, in hills about eight feet apart
-each way, planting five or six seeds to a hill.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Radishes</span> are only palatable when they
-have been grown very quickly. If they are
-slow in coming to maturity the product is
-pithy and worthless.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A light, rich soil is most suited to the production
-of radishes. The seeds should be
-sown in rows nine inches or a foot apart and
-the seedlings thinned to about two inches.
-It does not pay to transplant radishes.
-Five or six feet of row is sufficient to plant
-at one time, securing a succession by planting
-other batches at intervals of about ten days.
-Radishes are usually not in great demand
-during the summer months, as the home
-grower has been surfeited by his spring crop.
-Those who are so fond of radishes that they
-want them throughout the whole season
-should plant <span class='it'>White Strasburg</span> or <span class='it'>Icicle</span> to
-mature during the hot weather, and <span class='it'>Cardinal
-Globe</span>, <span class='it'>Round Red Forcing</span>, or <span class='it'>French Breakfast</span>
-for an early crop.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Winter radishes</span>, which form very large
-roots and may be stored by the same methods
-adopted for beets and carrots, are usually
-sown about the end of July or beginning of
-August. They need more space in which to
-mature—about eighteen inches between the
-rows and six inches in the rows.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Rutabaga.</span>—See <span class='sc'>Turnip</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Salsify</span> or <span class='it'>Vegetable Oyster</span> is a vegetable
-that is coming into more general use.
-Seeds are sown early in the spring on deeply
-broken ground in rows fifteen inches apart,
-and the plants thinned to three inches. The
-roots are dug in the fall and stored like beets,
-or they may be left in the ground and dug
-when required for use, if the weather permits.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Spinach</span> is a cool-weather crop that requires
-a light soil heavily manured with decayed
-stable manure for best results. The
-seeds should be planted in very early spring
-or in September, in rows fifteen inches apart,
-and the plants thinned to stand four inches
-apart. Nitrate of soda as recommended for
-kohlrabi is good for this crop.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Spinach (New Zealand).</span>—Although
-called spinach, this is an entirely different
-plant and belongs to another family. It
-luxuriates during hot weather and will supply
-the table plentifully with “greens” throughout
-the summer. Seeds should be planted
-during April or May in rows two feet apart,
-the plants later being thinned to one foot.
-When the plants attain a foot in height
-picking may begin, using the tender shoot-tips,
-or leaves, as required. The thinnings,
-of course, are also available for cooking.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Squash.</span>—Cultivate the same as cucumber.
-The bush varieties should be planted four
-feet apart each way, and the vining kinds
-from six to eight feet.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are several different types of squash.
-The summer kinds are represented by the
-<span class='it'>Pattypan</span> and <span class='it'>Crookneck</span> types, and the winter
-varieties by the <span class='it'>Hubbard</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>They are subject to much the same insect
-pests and diseases as the cucumber and
-muskmelon.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Sweet Potatoes</span> are not very well adapted
-for Northern gardens, although they are
-grown to a considerable extent in parts of
-New Jersey.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>They succeed best in a rich, sandy soil.
-The “sets” are usually planted on slightly
-raised, broad ridges about four feet apart.
-They are spaced from twelve to eighteen
-inches apart along the ridges.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The production of “sets” is usually effected
-by placing small potatoes in a hotbed and
-covering them with sand. This causes them
-to sprout, and when the shoots are six or
-eight inches in length they are pulled off with
-roots attached and planted as described.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Yellow Jersey</span> is a good variety for Northern
-planting.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Swiss Chard.</span>—See under <span class='sc'>Chard</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Tomato.</span>—This plant adapts itself to a
-great variety of soils, and will succeed almost
-anywhere if it receives warmth and sunshine.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is seldom worth while for any one without
-greenhouse facilities, unless he wishes to
-have the experience, to raise tomatoes from
-seed. Young plants can be obtained at a low
-cost at planting-time from seedsmen who have
-every convenience for raising them cheaply.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The distance apart between the plants
-when they are set out in the garden depends
-on the method of training adopted. The
-truck farmers and market gardeners seldom
-go to the trouble of staking their plants.
-They are simply set out in the field three or
-four feet apart each way and allowed to
-grow naturally. This results in the spoiling
-of some of the fruit through coming in contact
-with the soil.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The home gardener can usually afford the
-time and trouble required to stake his tomatoes,
-and receives his reward in the shape of
-more fruit of better quality.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>One method of training is to set out the
-plants a foot apart in rows three feet apart.
-If this scheme is adopted each plant must be
-supplied with a stout stake to which it is
-tied, and the plant must be restricted to a
-single stem. This last is effected by pinching
-out the side shoots with thumb and finger as
-soon as they are formed. Avoid taking off
-the flowering shoots or you will have no
-fruit.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Another method is to set the plants three
-feet by two feet, and support them as described
-in Chapter X. In this case it is
-advisable to prune out the thin, spindly
-shoots which frequently congregate in the
-centers of the plants. This causes the vigor
-of the plant to be concentrated in the strong,
-fruiting shoots, admits light and air, resulting
-in better ripened tomatoes.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>They can also be trained on the south side
-of the house, supporting them with tape or
-cloth passed around the shoots and fastened
-to the wall with tacks.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Favorite tomatoes are <span class='it'>Chalk’s Early Jewel</span>
-for an early crop, <span class='it'>Stone</span> and <span class='it'>Ponderosa</span> for
-main crop. In small gardens <span class='it'>Dwarf Stone</span> can
-be used to advantage.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Turnip</span> is a hardy crop well suited for
-early spring or late fall cultivation. For the
-early crop such varieties as <span class='it'>Snowball</span> or <span class='it'>Early
-White Milan</span> should be planted. The seed
-may be sown as soon as the ground is prepared
-in the spring, in rows a foot apart.
-When they are large enough the young plants
-must be thinned out to stand about four
-inches apart.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Yellow Globe</span>, <span class='it'>Golden Ball</span>, or the white
-strap-leaf kinds may be sown for fall use.
-They are cultivated in the same way as the
-preceding except that the seeds are sown in
-July or August.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='it'>Rutabaga turnips</span> grow much larger than the
-preceding, require more room, and a longer
-period for development. They can be sown
-in May or June in rows two feet apart, and
-the young plants thinned out to stand about
-ten inches apart in the rows. Treated in this
-way, they will form large roots suitable for
-winter storage.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Turnips succeed best in a loamy soil in
-which there has been incorporated a liberal
-supply of well-decayed stable manure.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Watermelon.</span>—These plants succeed under
-much the same conditions, and need the
-same treatment as muskmelon. They are
-rampant growers and the hills should be
-spaced about eight feet apart each way.
-They are, therefore, not adapted for cultivation
-in very small gardens.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The striped cucumber-beetle is also partial
-to watermelon.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>For planting in Northern gardens, quick-maturing
-varieties such as <span class='it'>Cole’s Early</span> and
-<span class='it'>Fordhook</span> should be planted.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='100' id='Page_100'></span></p>
-<div><h1>XIV<br/> <span class='sub-head'>HARVESTING AND STORING</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>The</span> flavor and tenderness of many vegetables
-depend in a large measure on
-their being harvested at the proper time.
-The picking of string-beans should be early,
-constant, and methodical, partly because
-old beans are stringy and unpalatable and
-partly because, if picking is neglected and
-the plants allowed to form seed, production
-ceases. Peas should always be picked just as
-soon as the pods are well filled, before the
-seeds commence to harden. Their flavor
-deteriorates if they are picked more than an
-hour or two before they are needed for the
-table. The same remarks apply to sweet
-corn. There is an old saying that “the pot
-should be boiling before the ears are picked
-from the plant.”</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Great care should be taken in harvesting
-beets. If the roots are bruised or broken, or
-if the leaves are cut off too close to the root,
-the color of the beets, one of their greatest
-attractions, will be lost in cooking. The
-crispness of salad plants—celery, lettuce,
-radish, and onion—is enhanced if they are
-gathered early in the morning and stood in
-water in a shady, cool place until they are
-required for use. Such crops as Brussells
-sprouts, kale, celery, and parsnips are considered
-to be improved in flavor after they
-have been slightly frozen. The fruits of
-tomato, watermelon, and muskmelon should
-be allowed to ripen on the plants. Muskmelons
-are ripe when the fruit parts readily
-from the stem on being lifted in the hand.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Proper harvesting is a prime necessity if
-vegetables are to be successfully stored for
-winter use. Bruised, broken or diseased
-vegetables should always be rejected, as decay
-is almost certain to take place when they are
-stored, and this is likely to spread to the sound
-vegetables.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A cellar with an earthen floor, well ventilated
-and frost-proof, in which a temperature
-of from 40° to 45° Fahr. can be maintained,
-forms a splendid storage-place for potatoes,
-the majority of the root crops, and some of
-the leaf vegetables. If there is a furnace in
-the cellar which raises the temperature too
-much, the coolness required may be obtained
-by partitioning off part of the cellar, preferably
-in a corner containing a window, so that
-ventilation may be secured.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Quite a number of vegetables can be successfully
-stored in the open by burying them
-in pits or trenches and covering with straw,
-salt hay, and earth. Some of the disadvantages
-of this method are the inaccessibility of
-the vegetables when the weather is severe,
-and the difficulty of looking them over
-occasionally so that diseased and decayed
-specimens may be removed. When storing
-vegetables in this way it is important that
-the whole of the covering should not be put
-on at one time, as this endangers the whole
-pile of vegetables through the possibility of
-heating.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Root, Tuber, and Bulb Crops</span></h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Artichoke (Jerusalem).</span>—The tubers of
-this plant are unaffected by frost and may be
-allowed to remain in the ground all winter.
-In those sections where the frost penetrates
-the ground deeply a supply sufficient for use
-during the winter should be dug in the fall
-and stored in sand in a cool cellar.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Parsnip</span>, <span class='sc'>Horseradish</span>, and <span class='sc'>Salsify</span> may
-be treated in the same way as the preceding.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beets</span> should be carefully dug up after the
-first frost and handled gently to avoid breaking
-or bruising them. Cut off the leaves
-about an inch above the roots and pack them
-with moist sand or earth in boxes in a cool
-cellar. Covering the roots in this way maintains
-their freshness and prevents shriveling.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Carrots.</span>—In the fall large numbers of
-fibrous roots are produced on the sides of the
-large tap-root. These roots spoil the symmetry
-of the carrots and impair their flavor.
-The crop should therefore be harvested before
-these fibrous roots form. Observation of the
-roots is the only way of determining the
-proper time to dig them up. In other respects
-they are stored the same as beets.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Potatoes</span> for winter use should be dug on
-a dry day as soon as possible after the tops
-have died down. Leave them lying on the
-surface of the ground for a few hours, so that
-they may dry properly. (It is inadvisable to
-allow them to be exposed to the light for
-too long a period, as it will cause the tubers to
-become green and unfit for use.) They can
-then be gathered up and placed in boxes or
-barrels in a cool, frost-proof cellar, but not
-exposed to the light. All diseased or injured
-tubers should be laid aside for immediate
-use, provided they are not too far gone, in
-which case they may be boiled and fed to
-pigs or chickens, or destroyed by burning, so
-as to avoid the possibility of spreading
-disease.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Potatoes may also be stored outdoors in
-sections where the winters are not too severe.
-A high-lying sandy piece of ground should be
-chosen on which to make the “pit.” Dig out
-the soil for a depth of about six inches and
-line the excavation with three inches of straw.
-Place the potatoes in a pile on this and cover
-with a similar thickness of straw or hay.
-Place over this a layer of earth three inches
-thick to prevent the straw from blowing
-away. Gradually increase the covering as the
-weather becomes more severe, until a thickness
-of a foot or eighteen inches is reached.
-A layer of manure over this is advisable in
-very cold climates. If the pile is a large one
-it is important that ventilation should be provided
-for. This may be accomplished by sticking
-a stovepipe into the center of the pile and
-allowing the top to project above the covering
-of earth, or by allowing a tuft of the straw
-that forms the first covering to extend in
-the same manner. This vent-hole must be
-covered with a board, a piece of oilcloth, or
-something similar to prevent rain from entering.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Other vegetables that may be stored in this
-way are <span class='it'>beets, carrots, turnips, salsify</span>, and
-<span class='it'>parsnips</span>.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Rutabagas</span> and <span class='sc'>Turnips</span> require to be
-dug up before severe frost. They can be
-stored the same way as potatoes.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Sweet Potatoes</span> are very difficult to store
-over the winter. The loss through decay in
-storage is enormous every year, even though
-proper facilities are obtainable. They need a
-warm, dry room and a constant temperature.
-The less they are handled after being stored
-the better. The best advice for those who
-have raised a crop of this vegetable is to
-avoid loss by eating them as quickly as
-possible.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Onions</span> should be properly “cured” before
-they are stored. This is accomplished by
-harvesting them during dry, settled weather,
-and allowing them to lie in windrows two or
-three days before bringing them indoors.
-They should then be placed in a cool, airy
-room in slatted crates, so that air has free
-access to them. If wet weather is prevalent
-at harvesting-time they may be “cured” by
-placing them in a single layer under cover
-until they are thoroughly dry. The dead
-leaves and loose scales should be pulled off
-before storing them.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Leaf Crops</span></h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cabbages</span> can be stored by digging them
-up with some soil attached to the roots, and
-packing them close together on the floor of
-a cool cellar. Treated in this way, they are
-a rather “smelly” vegetable, and, unless the
-cellar is tightly shut off from the rest of the
-house, likely to cause some unpleasantness.
-They can be stored outside in the way recommended
-for potatoes by placing them head
-downward in a trench or pit.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Cauliflower.</span>—It is possible to preserve
-cauliflower, for a short time only, by digging
-them with roots attached and suspending
-them head downward in a cool, moist
-cellar.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Celery</span> can be dug in the fall and packed
-closely in boxes in an upright position in a
-cool cellar. The more roots and soil adhering
-to the plants the better the chance of success.
-When the soil dries out it must be watered,
-but be very careful not to get any water on the
-leaves or leaf-stalks. Another way of caring
-for celery is to dig a trench deep enough to
-accommodate the plants when they are
-placed upright. Pack them as tightly as
-possible in this and cover with boards to keep
-out rain. In severe weather it will be necessary
-to put on an additional covering of
-straw and earth.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Parsley.</span>—In sections where the winter is
-not too severe parsley may be kept green
-through the greater part of the winter by
-covering the patch with a bottomless box,
-with a pane of glass for covering the top.
-The box should be banked with manure or
-leaves, and the glass covered with straw in
-very cold weather. Parsley can also be dug
-up, placed in plant-pots, making the soil firm
-about the roots, and kept in a cool, sunny
-room.</p>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'><span class='it'>Seed or Fruit Crops</span></h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Beans.</span>—Dry-shell beans should be allowed
-to stay on the plants until the pods dry up
-and become yellow. They may then be
-gathered, and shelled when convenient. If
-they are infested with weevils they should
-be dry baked in a temperature of about 145°
-Fahr. Care must be taken not to allow the
-temperature to rise above this figure, or the
-beans will be roasted and spoiled. Fumigating
-with carbon disulphide is also an
-efficacious expedient, but somewhat dangerous
-because of the explosive properties of the
-fumigant.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='sc'>Pumpkin</span> and <span class='sc'>Winter Squash</span> can be
-stored in a warm, dry room. It is advisable
-to turn over the fruits selected for storing
-two weeks or so before they are harvested,
-so that the side that has been lying on the
-ground may have its rind hardened by exposure
-to sun and air.</p>
-
-<hr class='tbk101'/>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Although concerned primarily with “war
-gardens,” the methods advocated can be used
-by all vegetable growers who practise intensive
-cultivation. The fundamental principles
-of soil management also apply equally
-to flower-gardens.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The writer has found in his experience that
-good crops can be raised, on what would be
-usually considered poor soil, by men and
-women who know little of horticultural
-practices. Larger crops could have been
-produced had they known more of the art of
-growing vegetables. It is to help such people
-that this book has been written, from information
-gained during twenty years of
-professional experience.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is the earnest hope of the author that
-the crops raised by “war gardeners” will be
-of such a size as to cause this last chapter to
-be the one that is most consulted.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'><span class='pageno' title='109' id='Page_109'></span></p>
-
-<div><h1>APPENDIX</h1></div>
-
-<h2 class='nobreak'>Table I</h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Approximate quantities of vegetables obtainable
-from a row fifty feet long. This
-table is based on actual yields obtained from
-a plot of moderate fertility by using standard
-varieties of vegetables.</p>
-
-<table id='tab9' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 10em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 10em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Beets</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>40</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;bunches (5 in a bunch)</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Bush beans (pods)</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>27</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;quarts</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Cabbage</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>25</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;heads</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Carrots</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>45</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;pounds</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Cauliflower</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>25</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;heads</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Corn</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;ears</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Egg-plant</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;fruits</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Lettuce</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>50</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;heads</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Onions</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>20</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;pounds</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Parsnips</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>40</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;pounds</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Peas (pods)</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>20</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;quarts</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Potatoes</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>5</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;pecks</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab9c1 tdStyle4'>Tomatoes</td><td class='tab9c2 tdStyle5'>240</td><td class='tab9c3 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;pounds</td><td class='tab9c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<h2>Table II</h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Approximate number of days from seed-sowing
-to first picking of crops. Variation
-is caused by temperature and character of
-variety—early, midseason, or late.</p>
-
-<table id='tab10' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 11em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 4.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Beans (bush)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>45</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'>to</td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>65 days</td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Beans (pole)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Beets</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Cabbage (early)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>95</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>120 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Cabbage (late)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>130 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Carrots</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>75</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>110 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Cauliflower</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>130 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Celery</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>125</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>150 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a id='r5'/><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Chard</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Corn (sweet)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>100  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Cucumber</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Egg-plant</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>125</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>160 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Kale</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>120  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Kohlrabi</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Lettuce</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>65</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>100  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Muskmelon</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>115</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>140 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Okra</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>90</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>100 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Onion (seed)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>130</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>150 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Onion (sets)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>90</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>120 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c2 tab10c2-col5 tdStyle5'  colspan='4'><span style='font-size:smaller'>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;If “sets” are planted for use as bunch onions they are ready in about 40 days.</span></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Parsley</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>90</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'>to</td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>100 days</td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Parsnips</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>125</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>150 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Peas</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>45</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Peppers</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>120</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>150 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Potato (Irish)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>80</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>140  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Potato (sweet)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>130 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Pumpkin</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>130  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Radish</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>25</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>50 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Salsify</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>125</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>150  <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Spinach</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>30</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>60 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Spinach New Zealand</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>70 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Squash (summer)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Squash (winter)</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>125</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>130 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'><a href='#f5' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[5]</span></sup></a>Tomato</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>100</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>125 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab10c1 tdStyle4'>Turnip</td><td class='tab10c2 tdStyle5'>60</td><td class='tab10c3 tdStyle6'><span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>to</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c4 tdStyle5'>80 <span class='ditto-outer'><span class='ditto-word'>days</span><span class='ditto-mark'>”</span></span></td><td class='tab10c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_5'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f5'><a href='#r5'>[5]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Continue to bear until frost.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<h2><a id='III'></a><a id='IIIB'></a><a id='IIIc'></a>Table III</h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Showing the correct depth to plant seeds
-and the amount of space required by the
-plants in and between rows.</p>
-
-<table id='tab11' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 11.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 7.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 12.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'></td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'><span style='font-size:smaller'>Depth to plant</span></td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'><span style='font-size:smaller'>Distance between rows</span></td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'><span style='font-size:smaller'>Distance between plants in the rows</span></td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Bean (pole)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>3-4 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>3-4 ft. if in hills, 9 ins. if in rows.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Bean (dwarf)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>3-6 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Bean (dwarf Lima)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2-2½ ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6-10 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Beet</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>4 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Cabbage (early)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2-3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>1½-2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Cabbage (late)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Carrot</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>½ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>4 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Celery</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1/8 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2½-5 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>4-6 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Chard</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6-12 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Corn</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2½-3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2½-3 ft. if in hills, 1 ft. if in rows.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Cucumber</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>4-5 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>15 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Egg-plant</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2½-3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Kale</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>18-24 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>8-10 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Kohlrabi</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Lettuce</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>1 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>9-12 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Muskmelon</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>6 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>18 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Okra</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Onion (seed)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>1 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>4 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Onion (sets)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>1 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Parsley</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>½ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>1 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6-9 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Parsnip</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Peas (dwarf)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>18-24 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Peas (tall)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>4-6 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>3 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Peppers</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>¼ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>12-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Potato</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>4-6 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2½-3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>12-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Radish</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>½ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>9-12 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Salsify</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>2 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Spinach</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>12-15 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>4 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Spinach New Zealand</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>2 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>1 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Squash (bush)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>3-4 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>3-4 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Squash (vine)</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>1 in</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>7-10 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>7-10 ft.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Swiss Chard</td><td class='tab11c2 tab11c2-col3 tdStyle6'  colspan='2'><span class='it'>see</span> Chard.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'></td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Tomato</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>½ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>3 ft.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>1 ft. if trained to single stem, 2-3 feet if allowed to grow naturally.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab11c1 tdStyle7'>Turnip</td><td class='tab11c2 tdStyle6'>½ in.</td><td class='tab11c3 tdStyle6'>15-18 in.</td><td class='tab11c4 tdStyle6'>6 in.</td><td class='tab11c5 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<h2>Table IV</h2>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Quantity of seeds required to plant a row
-one hundred feet long, and time of planting.</p>
-
-<table id='tab12' summary='' class='center'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' style='width: 11.5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 15em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 5em;'/>
-<col span='1' style='width: 1em;'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'></td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'><span style='font-size:smaller'>Time to plant</span></td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'><span style='font-size:smaller'>Quantity required</span></td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Bean (pole)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Late May or early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ pint</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Bean (dwarf)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>May 10 to August</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pint</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a id='r6'/><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Beet</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April to August</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>2 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Cabbage (early)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Feb. indoors; plants set out in March or April</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Cabbage late)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>May; plants set out in June or July</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Carrot</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April to July</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Cauliflower (early)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Treat like Cabbage</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Cauliflower (late)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Treat like Cabbage</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Celery</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March indoors; plants set out in June or July</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Chard</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Corn</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>May 10 to July 10</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ pint</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Cucumber</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Late May or early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Egg-plant</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March indoors; plants set out early in June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Kale,</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'><span class='it'>see</span> Cabbage (late).</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'></td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Kohlrabi</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April to August</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>¼ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Lettuce</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April to August</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Muskmelon</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Okra</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>May or June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>2 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Onion (seed)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April and May</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Onion (sets)</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March 15 to May 15</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 quart</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Parsley</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>¼ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Parsnip</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Peas</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March 15 to May and August 1 to 20</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 quart</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Peppers</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March indoors; plants set out in late May or early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Potato</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April to June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 peck</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Radish</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March to September</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Salsify</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Spinach</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March and September</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Squash</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>Late May or early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'><a href='#f6' style='text-decoration:none'><sup><span style='font-size:0.9em'>[6]</span></sup></a>Swiss Chard,</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'><span class='it'>see</span> Chard.</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'></td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Tomato</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>March indoors; plants set out in late May or early June</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>1 pkt.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-<tr><td class='tab12c1 tdStyle7'>Turnip</td><td class='tab12c2 tdStyle4'>April, July and August</td><td class='tab12c3 tdStyle6'>½ oz.</td><td class='tab12c4 tdStyle4'></td></tr>
-</table>
-
-<div class='footnote'>
-<table summary='footnote_6'>
-<colgroup>
-<col span='1' class='footnoteid'/>
-<col span='1'/>
-</colgroup>
-<tr><td style='vertical-align:top;'>
-<div class='footnote-id' id='f6'><a href='#r6'>[6]</a></div>
-</td><td>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Are hardy vegetables, and will stand slight frost.
-Should be planted as soon as the ground can be worked.
-Dates given are approximate and apply in the vicinity
-of New York. Other localities should take into consideration
-the effects of elevation and latitude.</p>
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</div>
-
-<p class='line0' style='text-align:center;margin-top:2.5em;'>THE END</p>
-
-<hr class='tbk102'/>
-
-<p class='line0' style='margin-top:2em;font-size:1.1em;font-weight:bold;'><a id='notes'></a>Transcriber’s Notes:</p>
-
-<p class='noindent'>A few obvious punctuation and typesetting errors have been corrected without note. Chemicals
-mentioned for insect control should not be used in modern day gardens since they
-are not considered to be safe.</p>
-
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-
-<p class='noindent'>[End of <span class='it'>War Gardens</span> by Montague Free]</p>
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-<pre>
-
-
-
-
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