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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #65891 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/65891)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook of El Morro Trails, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
-www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
-will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
-using this eBook.
-
-Title: El Morro Trails
-       El Morro National Monument, New Mexico
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: July 21, 2021 [eBook #65891]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-Produced by: Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading
-             Team at https://www.pgdp.net
-
-*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS ***
-
-
-
-
-                           _El Morro Trails_
-                 EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEW MEXICO
-
-
-                           PRICE: 50 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME
-
-    [Illustration: _Inscription Rock, El Morro National Monument_]
-
-
-
-
-                              Introduction
-
-
-In the year 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado came up from Mexico with
-some 350 Spanish soldiers and crossed southeastern Arizona to Zuñi, a
-pueblo 30 miles west of El Morro. Breaking up into several groups, they
-went eastward 70 miles to Acoma Pueblo and thence to the Rio Grande. At
-least one of the groups probably passed El Morro enroute.
-
-The first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal
-of Diego Pérez de Luxán, chronicler of the Espejo expedition of 1583.
-Luxán stopped here for water on March 11 of that year.
-
-For some 300 years, hundreds of Spanish soldiers and priests, enroute
-between Santa Fe and Zuñi, and the Hopi villages farther north, passed
-El Morro. Many left names and notations about themselves carved into the
-soft sandstone.
-
-After 1849, American soldiers, emigrants, freighters, and adventurers
-camped here because of the never-failing waterhole. In 1906, El Morro
-was set aside as a National Monument and additional name carving was
-prohibited.
-
-The name “El Morro” simply means “the headland” or “the bluff,” and
-refers to the appearance of this mesa-point from a distance.
-
-                         KEEP AMERICA BEAUTIFUL
-
-
-
-
-                           _El Morro Trails_
-
-
-
-
-                         INSCRIPTION ROCK TRAIL
-
-
-The trail begins directly behind the Monument headquarters, and climbs
-gradually toward the rock. Just follow the arrows and _do not hurry_. It
-is 7,200 feet above sea level here, and the altitude may bother some of
-you. The hike past the inscriptions and back to the office normally
-takes from 30 to 40 minutes.
-
-After viewing the inscriptions, you may, if you wish, continue up over
-the top of the rock and visit two large prehistoric Indian ruins. This
-extra hike will take you another 1 to 1½ hours.
-
-Starting near the base of the mesa the trail has been marked with
-numbered stations which match the numbered paragraphs in this booklet.
-Read and enjoy yourself as you walk.
-
-No one has ever been bitten here, but watch along the path for
-rattlesnakes.
-
-           Please leave the Monument as neat as you found it.
-
-
-1.   If you look closely at the rock, about 12 feet above the ground,
-you will see some notches cut into the sandstone. These are footholds.
-Probably most Indians came to the pool by the long, safe way, but
-others, caring more for their thirst than their lives, came down from
-the mesa top through the high notch to the right and above you.
-
-  Do not, under any circumstances, try coming down this short way—the
-  rock is extremely slippery. If you go to the top, stay on the marked
-                                 trail.
-
-
-2.   Now you see why travelers stopped here. There is no spring; the
-pool is fed largely by rain falling in July, August, and September, and
-by melting snows. When full it is about 12 feet deep and holds about
-200,000 gallons of water.
-
-                  DO NOT THROW ANYTHING INTO THE POOL!
-
-If you look closely around the walls at about eye level, even on the far
-side, you can see names carved into the rock. Most of these date from
-1850 to 1900, and were the work of emigrants and soldiers.
-
-How did they get over there? In the early days, there was probably a
-sandbank around the edge, and people could ride or walk around the pool.
-In 1942, a heavy rock fall filled the waterhole. When the sand and
-rubble were removed, the old dam was reinforced and lined with concrete.
-
-  Do not write or carve on the cliff, and please don’t touch. Touching
-  the inscriptions causes them to wear away more rapidly.
-
-The mud formations on the face of the rock above the pool are the nests
-of cliff swallows. These birds come to El Morro each year to nest and
-raise their young.
-
-    [Illustration: _The waterhole_]
-
-
-3.   Along the base of the mesa are examples of the predominant types of
-trees found in the Southwest. From left to right these are:
-
-  (1) One-seed juniper (_Juniperus monosperma_), which can be used for
-  fenceposts and fuel.
-
-  (2) Pinyon pine (_Pinus edulis_), noted for its edible nuts which are
-  harvested in the fall.
-
-  (3) Ponderosa pine (_Pinus ponderosa_), which provides excellent wood
-  for construction and building purposes.
-
-Watch for black sage (_Artemisia tridentata_) along the right side of
-the trail. This is the purple sage of western fiction and is recognized
-by the silvery down on the leaves and the purplish color of the shaggy
-bark. The strong aromatic odor of sagebrush is especially noticeable
-after a rain.
-
-
-4.   In the desert varnish, the darker colored rock, note particularly a
-sequence showing hand prints, foot prints and a zig-zag trail going to a
-hole in the cliff. This could mean, “Follow the hand and foot trail to
-the pool of water.”
-
-The signature of Mr. Long is the most impressive one on the rock. It
-appears to have been carved between 1850 and 1862, probably with a knife
-after being sketched. Just to your right around the corner, note “Mr.
-Engle” in block print and “Mr. Bryn” in script. Engle was Beale’s
-second-in-command and Long and Bryn were members of Beale’s company.
-
-
-5.   There is a good account of Mr. P. (Peachy) Gilmer Breckinridge from
-the Virginia Historical Society. He graduated from Virginia Military
-Institute, and as a young man rode across the continent to California.
-
-In 1857 Lt. Edward Beale was in charge of an expedition testing camels
-for use in the American deserts. Breckinridge was in charge of the 25
-camels used by Beale when they passed El Morro.
-
-Remaining there only a short time, he rode back to Virginia just in time
-to get into the Civil War. He was killed in a skirmish at Kennon’s
-Landing, Virginia, in 1863.
-
-    [Illustration: _E. Pen Long inscription_]
-
-
-6.   Here you observe a number of very faint Spanish inscriptions which
-have never been completely studied. Note the word “año” (year) 1646. To
-the right is a lamp-blackened inscription reading “paso por aqui Miguel
-Alfaro.” (Passed by here, Miguel Alfaro). A date is not given, nor is
-the man yet known to us. Scholars, dating the inscriptions by letter
-style, say it was done about 1700.
-
-The round black discs along the bottom of the rock are section markers.
-Each one is lettered and they divide the face of the cliff into sections
-so the inscriptions can be easily located and recorded.
-
-
-7.   In Spanish, this inscription says: “A veinticinco del mes de junio,
-año de 1709 paso por aqui para Zuñi—Ramon Garcia Jurado.” Translated, it
-reads:
-
-  “On the 25th of the month of June, of this year of 1709, passed by
-  here on the way to Zuñi—Ramon Garcia Jurado.”
-
-    [Illustration: _Ramon Garcia Jurado inscription, 1709_]
-
-You can find Señor Jurado’s name in old Spanish documents. In 1728 he
-was the “alcalde mayor” of the Keres district, not far south of Santa
-Fe.
-
-To your right is a blackened inscription which reads, translated, “By
-here passed Pedro Romero on the 22nd of August, year of 1751.” Little is
-known about this Spanish gentleman.
-
-
-8.   “By here passed Andres Romero, of the year 1774.” This Spaniard is
-unknown. The date is important because it is apparently the last Spanish
-inscription before the coming of the Americans in 1849.
-
-
-9.   Notice the petroglyphs here, in particular the four mountain sheep
-and what appears to be a bear paw. These are, of course, far older than
-the Spanish inscriptions above them.
-
-The Spanish inscription reads:
-
-  “Pasamos por aquí el Sargento Mayor y el Capitan Jude de Archuleta y
-  el Ayudante Diego Martin Barba y el Alferez Agustin de Ynojos año de
-  1636.”
-
-Translated, it reads:
-
-  “We passed by here, the Sergeant Major and Captain Juan de Archuleta
-  and Adjutant Diego Martin Barba and Ensign Agustin de Ynojos, the year
-  of 1636.”
-
-The “Sergeant Major” was not an enlisted man, as now—he was the officer
-in direct command of the troops. The ensign was the standard bearer,
-corresponding in grade to a second lieutenant.
-
-Barba and Archuleta were accused of aiding a rebellion during one of the
-numerous civil disturbances that plagued the Spanish in New Mexico. In
-1643 they were beheaded.
-
-
-10.   Here is the oldest and most famous inscription at El Morro. It was
-done by the first governor of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oñate, in 1605, 15
-years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.
-
-In 1604, Oñate rode south with 30 men to the Gulf of California. On his
-return the next year, he made his inscription, which reads:
-
-  “Paso por aquí el adelantado Don Juan de Oñate del descubrimiento de
-  la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de 1605.”
-
-The translation reads:
-
-  “Passed by here the Governor Don Juan de Oñate, from the discovery of
-  the Sea of the South on the 16th of April, 1605.”
-
-By “Sea of the South,” Oñate meant Gulf of California, an arm of the
-Pacific Ocean. He was not the first Spaniard to see it, of course.
-
-This was not Oñate’s first visit to El Morro—on December 13, 1598, he
-passed here from Zuñi with a group of Spanish soldiers, enroute to the
-Rio Grande via Acoma.
-
-    [Illustration: _Juan de Oñate inscription. 1605_]
-
-Below the Oñate inscription, partly hidden by the yucca plant, is an
-inscription that reads:
-
-  “By here passed the Ensign Don Joseph de Payba Basconzelos, the year
-  he brought the cabildo of the realm at his own expense the 18th of
-  February, of the year 1726.”
-
-What Basconzelos actually meant is not clear to us.
-
-
-11.   Continuing along the cliff, among the many inscriptions and
-petroglyphs you will be able to locate a church, stars, crucifixes, a
-little cavalry guidon (flag) and the prominent inscription of R. H.
-Orton, who was the Adjutant-General of California after the Civil War.
-You may also be able to locate the names of Simpson and Kern (but more
-about them at post #21.) The Indian Petroglyphs are higher on the rock
-because, through the centuries, erosion lowered the ground level.
-
-
-12.   Begin here with the highest set of inscriptions. The ground level
-was higher then, as shown by this tree, which surely did not begin
-growing on top of a mound! Done by one of New Mexico’s most famous
-frontier governors, this inscription reads:
-
-  “Aqui estuvo de General Don Diego de Vargas, quien conquisto a nuestra
-  Santa Fe y a la Real Corona todo el Nuevo Mexico a su costa, Año de
-  1692.”
-
-or:
-
-  “Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who conquered for our Holy
-  Faith, and for the Royal Crown, all of New Mexico at his own expense,
-  year of 1692.”
-
-Twelve years earlier, in 1680, the Pueblo (Indian) revolt had taken
-place. Many Spanish were killed and the remainder fled to El Paso. In
-1692, de Vargas returned to re-establish Spanish control of the pueblos.
-He was later imprisoned for 3 years in the governor’s palace and when
-released, restored as governor. He died in Bernalillo in 1704.
-
-Below the de Vargas inscription are three names, “Williamson,”
-“Holland,” and “John Udell,” all with the same date of 1858. These men
-were members of the first emigrant train to try this new route to
-California.
-
-A good account of the trip can be found in the _Journal of John Udell_,
-a Baptist preacher who, with his 64-year-old wife, decided to visit his
-children in Sacramento. The party, consisting of 40 families and their
-equipment, finally reached the Colorado River, only to be attacked by
-the Mojave Indians. Several of the group were killed and practically all
-of their equipment stolen or burned.
-
-The survivors, including the elderly Udell and wife, returned to
-Albuquerque, walking most of the way. They passed El Morro enroute,
-arriving in Albuquerque, nearly starved, in November 1858. Remaining
-there for the winter, Udell and some of the others again started for
-California in 1859 in the company of Lt. Edward F. Beale, famous for his
-camel caravan of 1858, which also came west by way of El Morro.
-
-They had no difficulty reaching California, and finding their children
-in Sacramento. Mr. Udell is known to have died in the Golden State, a
-very old man.
-
-
-13.   The first emigrant train (mentioned in station 12) was led by Mr.
-L. J. Rose. He was born in Germany and moved to New Orleans in 1830. He
-later moved to Iowa where he became wealthy in the dry goods business.
-
-Rose was wounded by Mojave Indians in the attack mentioned by Udell.
-After recovering from his wounds he went to Los Angeles and became one
-of its leading citizens.
-
-
-14.   Some of the high carvings have the letters “U. P. R.” written
-after them. In 1868, the Union Pacific Railroad ran a survey through
-here, but the project was never carried out. The development of the
-Santa Fe Railroad 25 miles to the north effectively ended the use of El
-Morro as a stopping place.
-
-There is good reason to believe that practically all of the names you
-see here on the point date _after_ 1850.
-
-Looking west along the rock, you will note that the inscriptions end
-about where the small juniper is growing. Probably the rough surface
-beyond the little tree discouraged carving.
-
-But don’t stop here! Some of the best of the early Spanish inscriptions
-await you up the path.
-
-
-15.   Slightly to your left, several miles away, is a multi-colored
-mesa. It is composed of the same material as El Morro, was formed about
-the same time, and is approximately the same height. The brighter colors
-are caused by thin films of iron oxide around the sand grains, which are
-not conspicuously present in El Morro. Lack of water kept the early
-travelers from stopping there.
-
-
-16.   As the saying goes, the writer of this inscription “counted his
-chickens before they hatched.” He tells us:
-
-  “Year of 1716 on the 26th of August passed by here Don Feliz Martinez,
-  Governor and Captain General of this realm to the reduction and
-  conquest of the Moqui (Hopi) and (in his company?) the reverend Father
-  Friar Antonio Camargo, Custodian and ecclesiastical judge.”
-
-    [Illustration: _Don Feliz Martinez inscription, 1716_]
-
-Governor Martinez found the Hopis unwilling to accept Spanish
-domination, and after about 2 months of quarreling, (mostly with words
-and fist-shaking) the expedition returned, quite unsuccessful, to Santa
-Fe.
-
-Now continue on up to the next landing.
-
-
-17.   Because they were written on the same day and seemingly in the
-same handwriting, we presume that this inscription and the one to the
-west were written by the same man. The first one says:
-
-  “The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the Bachelor Don Juan
-  Ignacio of Arrasain.”
-
-The second reads:
-
-  “The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the illustrious Señor
-  Don Martin de Elizacochea, Bishop of Durango, and the day following,
-  went on to Zuñi.”
-
-The good “Bachelor” was a Bachelor of Laws, not necessarily a single
-man. The event records one of the first visits to this territory by a
-Bishop from Durango, Mexico.
-
-    [Illustration: _Don Martin de Elizacochea inscription, 1737_]
-
-    [Illustration: _Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Niéto Poem, 1629_]
-
-
-18.   Inscriptions on the north side are difficult to photograph,
-because the sun shines around here only a couple of hours per day during
-the summer. Here is the only poem on the rock:
-
-  “Aqui (llego el Señor) y Gobernor
-  Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto
-  Que lo imposible tiene ya subjeto
-  Su brazo indubitable y su valor
-  Con los carros del Rey Nuestro Señor
-  Cosa Que solo el puso en este efecto
-  De Agostos 5 (Mil) Seiscientos Veinte Nueve
-  Que se Bien a Zuñi pasa y la Fe lleve.”
-
-The poem, of course does not rhyme when translated into English.
-
-  “Here arrived the Señor and Governor
-  Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto
-  Whose indubitable arm and valor
-  Have overcome the impossible
-  With the wagons of the King our Lord
-  A thing which he alone put into this effect
-  August 5, 1629 that one may well to Zuñi
-  pass and carry the faith.”
-
-
-19.   If you are an enlisted man, you’ll appreciate this one. The first
-two lines of the inscription read:
-
-  “The 14th day of July 1736 passed by here the General Juan Paez
-  Hurtado, Inspector.”
-
-The second two lines, no doubt added when the good general’s back was
-turned, read:
-
-  “And in his company, the Corporal Joseph Trujillo!”
-
-We wonder what ever happened to Corporal Trujillo!
-
-
-20.   You are now looking at the longest and one of the most interesting
-inscriptions on the rock, supposedly done by Governor Eulate:
-
-  “I am the captain General of the Providence of New Mexico for the King
-  our Lord, passed by here on the return from the pueblos of Zuñi on the
-  29th of July the year 1620, and put them at peace at their humble
-  petition, they asking favor as vassals of his Majesty and promising
-  anew their obedience, all of which he did, with clemency, zeal, and
-  prudence, as a most Christian-like (gentleman) extraordinary and
-  gallant soldier of enduring and praised memory.”
-
-The word crossed out appears to have been “gentleman.” Somebody who knew
-the old boy apparently took exception to all this highflown praise.
-(That the erasure was done before 1849 can be proved, see Simpson,
-next).
-
-
-21.   Lt. J. H. Simpson, an engineer for the army, and Mr. R. H. Kern, a
-Philadelphia artist who rode around with the army drawing pictures, were
-the first English-speaking people to make a record of Inscription Rock.
-
-    [Illustration: _Eulate inscription, 1620_]
-
-    [Illustration: _Simpson and Kern inscription, 1849_]
-
-They spent 2 days copying the inscriptions, and stated that when they
-were here, not a single English inscription could be found on the rock.
-
-Recall the word “gentleman” crossed out back at Stake No. 20? Mr. Kern’s
-drawing faithfully shows the word X’d out just as you saw it.
-
-The Spanish inscription below was done by one of three Spanish soldiers
-left to “guard” 2,000 Zuñi Indians in 1699. It reads:
-
-  “I am of the hand (that is, written by) of Felipe de Arellano on the
-  16th of September, soldier.”
-
-In 1700, the Zuñis apparently thought the odds in their favor were good,
-so they killed the three Spaniards.
-
-To the right of Arellano’s inscription is a marvel of Spanish
-“shorthand.” A good scholar translated it for us. Here it is in both
-Spanish and English:
-
-  “Se pasaron a 23 de marzo de 1632 años a la venganza de muerte del
-  Padre Letrado.—Lujan”
-
-The translation reads:
-
-  “They passed on the 23rd of March, 1632, to the avenging of the death
-  of the Father Letrado.—Lujan”
-
-About the year 1629, Father Letrado built the earliest mission chapel at
-what we call today Salinas National Monument (near Mountainair, New
-Mexico, southwest of Albuquerque).
-
-He was transferred to Zuñi in February of 1632 and was killed just a
-week later. On hearing the news in Santa Fe, Lujan and a party of
-soldiers reached Zuñi in remarkably fast time.
-
-    [Illustration: _Lujan inscription, 1632_]
-
-This is the end of the inscription part of our trail. You may retrace
-your steps back to headquarters, or, if you wish, you may continue your
-hike on up over the mesa top, past the ruins, and down to headquarters
-by the return trail on the other side.
-
-                        Please stay on the trail
-
-
-
-
-                 TRAIL TO THE TOP OF THE ROCK AND RUINS
-
-
-The first stake is some distance along the trail, so keep walking and
-watch for it.
-
-
-1.   The cave-like depressions in the side of the rock are created by
-water. Rain falling on the top of the mesa enters cracks in the rock,
-runs down the cracks (called joints), and comes out of small openings on
-the side of the mesa. The water seeping out of the opening gradually
-wears away the rock. The freezing of the water in winter and thawing in
-summer helps to weaken the sandstone.
-
-The tall trees in the vicinity of this stake are ponderosa pine (_Pinus
-ponderosa_). They are readily identified by the needles, which grow two
-or three to a cluster. These trees grow in well-watered, protected areas
-within the Monument. The larger ones are somewhere between 200 and 300
-years old.
-
-
-2.   Here you can stop and catch your breath before beginning the steep
-climb. Look at the top of the mesa, to your right, just below the
-railing. You can see very clearly two different formations of rock. The
-lower is the sandstone called Zuñi formation and the higher is the
-Dakota formation. The line between these two formations represents a
-time interval of between 25 and 30 million years. More about this later.
-
-Behind the numbered stake near the base of the rock, you will see a
-Gambel oak (_Quercus gambelii_). It is commonly associated with
-ponderosa pine and is the most abundant oak of the low mountains and
-plateaus of the Southwest. It is characterized by its deeply-lobed
-leaves, and its habit of growth. It ranges from a shrub to a tree in
-size, and is often seen in dense stands, which give it the name of
-“scrub” oak in certain localities. Deer and livestock browse this tree,
-and small animals use its acorns for food.
-
-
-3.   The policy of the National Park Service is to keep the parks
-looking as natural as possible. Since it is natural for dead trees to be
-in a forest the ones you see in this area will not be cleaned up. When a
-tree falls in a National Park Service area it will lie where it fell and
-eventually will decay and supply nourishment for future trees.
-
-
-4.   Take a break here and look at the valley between the multicolored
-mesa and the higher parts of the Zuñi Mountains. This valley was formed
-by water gradually wearing away the softer rocks of the Chinle
-formation. The harder sandstones of El Morro and the adjacent mesa on
-the southwest and the sandstones and limestones of the higher slopes
-resisted such erosion.
-
-During the last few million years, while the Zuñi Mountains were being
-gradually pushed up to their present height, more than 10,000 feet of
-sedimentary rocks have been removed from what you see. This has been
-done by running water and wind, carrying away the rocks a few particles
-at a time. Before that, about 100 million years ago, this entire area,
-as far as you can see in any direction, was under the water of an
-ancient ocean. Forty million years before that, the sands of El Morro
-were accumulating on a broad, desert-like plain, built up by sand
-deposition of sluggish, wandering streams, and re-sorted by wind into
-large dunes.
-
-Before continuing along the trail, you will notice many small trees
-around you which are called pinyon (_Pinus edulis_). These pine trees
-have two needles to a cluster and are never tall like the ponderosa
-pine. They are usually less than 35 feet in height, and have a rounded,
-compact crown. Pinyons are seldom found growing in pure stands but are
-associated with various kinds of juniper. Because of the nature of their
-growth, heavy stands of pinyon and juniper are often called pigmy
-forests. The pinyon produces edible nuts which are abundantly used by
-local residents as well as marketed commercially elsewhere in the United
-States.
-
-
-5.   Here you can see at close hand the difference between the dark,
-upper layers of ocean sands and the light color of the lower and earlier
-stream and dune sands. Look here at the cliff above you and a little to
-the right. The lower is Zuñi sandstone, of the Jurassic period, and
-forms the bulk of El Morro. The upper is Dakota sandstone of Cretaceous
-period, representing beach deposits of the ancient sea which covered all
-the area. The contact surface between these two units represents a time
-interval of between 25 and 50 million years when erosion instead of new
-deposition was taking place.
-
-
-6.   Look on the left side of the trail and a little behind you. You
-will see a dark green stake that marks one of the four corners of the
-unexcavated ruin. Let your eye follow along the top of the incline to
-your right and you will see another green stake, another corner. As you
-follow the trail on this side of the box canyon, look to your left for
-the last two stakes and you can tell how big this ruin is. Please do not
-leave the trail.
-
-This village was possibly two or three stories high, but after the
-Indians left, the roofs collapsed and the walls fell in. Then the sand
-blew in, weeds began to grow, and you see the result.
-
-
-7.   Looking at the cliff wall across this little box canyon, you can
-see a definite horizontal line about half way down. The materials above
-and below the line were laid down about the same time, but the line
-represents a layer of softer material which has weathered away faster.
-
-The reason for the unevenness is that stream channels cut into the
-underlying sandstone, and then, as the land slowly settled to allow the
-sea to encroach, the channels filled up with sand. The sands were
-reworked by waves on the beach and the tops smoothed out and leveled.
-Small lagoons and swampy areas formed along the coastline. As you climb
-the steps at No. 11, you will cross a small seam of coal-like material
-which was formed from one of these swamps.
-
-    [Illustration: _The geological disconformity described at Stake 7._]
-
-If you look across the box canyon, on the horizon you will see the ruins
-of another village. It was occupied about the same time as the one on
-this side of the mesa.
-
-Across the top of the mesa, the trail will be marked with two parallel
-lines. Please stay between the lines.
-
-                           STAY ON THE TRAIL
-
-
-8.   The boulders of mixed colors topping the pedestals of Zuñi
-sandstone are the Basal Conglomerate of the Dakota formation. This
-involved erosion and reworking of the old surface (Zuñi) plus the
-deposition of new materials. Thus some of the light colored particles in
-the Dakota are Zuñi sandstone.
-
-The steps cut in the rock were constructed by the National Park Service.
-They are not the work of prehistoric Indians.
-
-
-9.   The line, to the left of the post, extending through the rock on
-both sides of the mesa, is one of the principal causes of the
-development of the box canyon. After El Morro was buried by several
-thousand feet of younger rocks, some 60 million years ago, it was
-subjected to great pressures from the weight of the overlying rocks and
-the movements which caused the Zuñi Mountains to project so far above
-sea level. These pressures caused the sandstone to crack into the long
-openings which we call joints. As running water and wind gradually
-removed the overlying rocks, the waters were able to run down into the
-joints and, alternately freezing and thawing, broke up the rock into
-small fragments which could be washed away.
-
-If you stand on this line and look down the box canyon to the west, you
-can see that each steep canyon wall is simply one side of a joint, while
-the material on the other side has been eroded away. If you look
-eastward towards the headquarters area, along this joint line, you can
-see how El Morro maintains its vertical walls by breaking into blocks
-which fall away from the main mass of the sandstone and leave a vertical
-joint face. This joint line is different from the others which you may
-have noticed in climbing over the rock because it goes so far and cuts
-through the rock so deeply.
-
-
-10.   The dark colored splotches are lichens. A lichen is composed of
-two different organisms, an alga and a fungus, living together and
-supporting each other. The fungus furnishes the moisture for the alga,
-and the alga the food for the fungus. This coexistence is known as
-symbiosis.
-
-As you walk from No. 10 to 11, you will pass several potholes that
-become pools of water after a rain. Some of these were artificially
-enlarged by the Indians who lived on the mesa top, to serve as
-supplementary sources of water.
-
-
-11.   The dark color here is caused by carbonized remains from the
-plants which grew in the ancient swamps. Coal is formed in much the same
-way, but there is too much inorganic material in this seam to produce
-coal. This is the coal-like seam mentioned at No. 7. On the very top,
-the dirt is from the Mancos formation of Cretaceous age, and is composed
-of marine shales deposited in the ancient sea which covered the area. It
-was originally much thicker, and is younger than any of the other rocks
-exposed here.
-
-Immediately ahead and extending to the right for nearly 300 feet is the
-ruin called _Atsinna_, a Zuñi word referring to the “writing on rock.”
-
-
-12.   Atsinna, the larger of the two ruins, is approximately 200 by 300
-feet, the size of some city blocks. Like the other village, parts of it
-probably were three stories high, mainly along the north side. It was
-terraced down toward the south, thus providing a southern exposure. You
-are standing on the second floor level about ten feet above the original
-ground level. The first floor was filled with debris from the collapse
-of the upper stories.
-
-The Indians obtained most of their water from the pool at the base of
-the rock, as did the later Spanish and American travelers, but they also
-caught as much water as they could on the mesa top.
-
-
-13.   This round room, is called a _kiva_. Kivas were built primarily
-for religious ceremonial reasons, but had other purposes, just as the
-large halls in cities today are used for exhibits, concerts, lectures,
-and other activities. In addition to religion, these rooms were used for
-workrooms, playrooms, general meeting places, fraternal society
-meetings, etc.
-
-    [Illustration: _A portion of Atsinna. Part of the square kiva is
-    shown at lower left_]
-
-Now contrast this round kiva with the square kiva across the trail
-toward the northeast. Both kivas served the same functions, but they
-represent two different architectural styles or traditions in use at
-approximately the same time.
-
-    [Illustration: _The box canyon as seen from its eastern end looking
-    west_]
-
-    [Illustration: _Looking out over Inscription Rock from the south_]
-
-Atsinna was occupied during the 13th and 14th centuries. The reason for
-the abandonment of this site is not definitely known. Perhaps the
-Indians found that the growing seasons were too short at this elevation
-and they had too many crop failures. Apparently these people moved to
-the west, where they founded the several Zuñi villages known in historic
-times. There, around the present pueblo of Zuñi, the growing season is
-slightly longer and irrigation can be practiced, and possibly the soil
-is more fertile.
-
-The prominent peak on the horizon to the south is called _Cerro Alto_,
-which is Spanish for high mountain. This peak is a volcanic cinder cone.
-
-
-14.   The stones you see at this station were used for grinding corn
-after it had been dried and stored. The corn was placed on the large
-stone called _metate_ and ground with the smaller stone called _mano_.
-
-
-15.   The trail now descends from the mesa top back to the Monument
-headquarters. We hope that you have enjoyed your trip over Inscription
-Rock. Should you have any questions, the ranger on duty will be happy to
-be of assistance.
-
-
-       PUBLISHED IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE BY
-               SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION
-                            221 NORTH COURT
-                         TUCSON, ARIZONA 85701
-
-    [Illustration: SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION • NATIONAL
-    PARK SERVICE]
-
-Southwest Parks and Monuments association was founded in 1938 to aid and
-promote the educational and scientific activities of the National Park
-Service. As a nonprofit organization authorized by Congress, it makes
-interpretive material available to park visitors by sale or free
-distribution. All net proceeds support the interpretive and research
-programs of the National Park Service.
-
-21st Edition—10M—8/92
-
-    [Illustration: Back cover]
-
-
-
-
-                          Transcriber’s Notes
-
-
-—Silently corrected a few typos.
-
-—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
-  is public-domain in the country of publication.
-
-—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
-  _underscores_.
-
-
-
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-
-<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of El Morro Trails, by Anonymous</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
-most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
-whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
-of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
-at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
-are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this eBook.
-</div>
-
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: El Morro Trails</p>
-<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>El Morro National Monument, New Mexico</p>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Anonymous</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 21, 2021 [eBook #65891]</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div>
-
-<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net</div>
-
-<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS ***</div>
-<div id="cover" class="img">
-<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="El Morro Trails, El Morro National Monument, New Mexico" width="1000" height="1539" />
-</div>
-<div class="box">
-<h1><i class="cur">El Morro Trails</i>
-<br /><span class="ss smallest"><span class="smallest">EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEW MEXICO</span></span></h1>
-<p class="jr1"><span class="ss"><span class="smaller">PRICE: 50 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME</span></span></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_i">i</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig1">
-<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="879" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Inscription Rock, El Morro National Monument</i></p>
-</div>
-<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">Introduction</span></h2>
-<p>In the year 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado came up from
-Mexico with some 350 Spanish soldiers and crossed southeastern
-Arizona to Zu&ntilde;i, a pueblo 30 miles west of El Morro. Breaking up into
-several groups, they went eastward 70 miles to Acoma Pueblo and
-thence to the Rio Grande. At least one of the groups probably passed
-El Morro enroute.</p>
-<p>The first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal
-of Diego P&eacute;rez de Lux&aacute;n, chronicler of the Espejo expedition of
-1583. Lux&aacute;n stopped here for water on March 11 of that year.</p>
-<p>For some 300 years, hundreds of Spanish soldiers and priests,
-enroute between Santa Fe and Zu&ntilde;i, and the Hopi villages farther
-north, passed El Morro. Many left names and notations about
-themselves carved into the soft sandstone.</p>
-<p>After 1849, American soldiers, emigrants, freighters, and adventurers
-camped here because of the never-failing waterhole. In 1906, El
-Morro was set aside as a National Monument and additional name
-carving was prohibited.</p>
-<p>The name &ldquo;El Morro&rdquo; simply means &ldquo;the headland&rdquo; or &ldquo;the bluff,&rdquo;
-and refers to the appearance of this mesa-point from a distance.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">KEEP AMERICA BEAUTIFUL</span></p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div>
-<h1 title=""><i class="cur">El Morro Trails</i></h1>
-<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">INSCRIPTION ROCK TRAIL</span></h2>
-<p>The trail begins directly behind the Monument headquarters, and
-climbs gradually toward the rock. Just follow the arrows and <i>do not
-hurry</i>. It is 7,200 feet above sea level here, and the altitude may
-bother some of you. The hike past the inscriptions and back to the office
-normally takes from 30 to 40 minutes.</p>
-<p>After viewing the inscriptions, you may, if you wish, continue up
-over the top of the rock and visit two large prehistoric Indian ruins.
-This extra hike will take you another 1 to 1&frac12; hours.</p>
-<p>Starting near the base of the mesa the trail has been marked with
-numbered stations which match the numbered paragraphs in this
-booklet. Read and enjoy yourself as you walk.</p>
-<p>No one has ever been bitten here, but watch along the path for
-rattlesnakes.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">Please leave the Monument as neat as you found it.</span></p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c3">1.</h3>
-<p>If you look closely at the rock, about 12 feet above the ground,
-you will see some notches cut into the sandstone. These are footholds.
-Probably most Indians came to the pool by the long, safe way, but
-others, caring more for their thirst than their lives, came down from
-the mesa top through the high notch to the right and above you.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">Do not, under any circumstances, try coming down this short way&mdash;the rock is extremely slippery. If you go to the top, stay on the marked trail.</span></p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c4">2.</h3>
-<p>Now you see why travelers stopped here. There is no spring; the
-pool is fed largely by rain falling in July, August, and September, and
-by melting snows. When full it is about 12 feet deep and holds about
-200,000 gallons of water.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">DO NOT THROW ANYTHING INTO THE POOL!</span></p>
-<p>If you look closely around the walls at about eye level, even on the
-far side, you can see names carved into the rock. Most of these date
-from 1850 to 1900, and were the work of emigrants and soldiers.</p>
-<p>How did they get over there? In the early days, there was probably
-a sandbank around the edge, and people could ride or walk around
-the pool. In 1942, a heavy rock fall filled the waterhole. When the
-sand and rubble were removed, the old dam was reinforced and lined
-with concrete.</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p><span class="ss">Do not write or carve on the cliff, and please don&rsquo;t
-touch. Touching the inscriptions causes them to wear
-away more rapidly.</span></p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The mud formations on the face of the rock above the pool are the
-nests of cliff swallows. These birds come to El Morro each year to nest
-and raise their young.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig2">
-<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="999" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>The waterhole</i></p>
-</div>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c5">3.</h3>
-<p>Along the base of the mesa
-are examples of the predominant
-types of trees found in the Southwest.
-From left to right these are:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>(1) One-seed juniper (<i>Juniperus
-monosperma</i>), which can be used
-for fenceposts and fuel.</p>
-<p>(2) Pinyon pine (<i>Pinus edulis</i>),
-noted for its edible nuts which are
-harvested in the fall.</p>
-<p>(3) Ponderosa pine (<i>Pinus ponderosa</i>),
-which provides excellent
-wood for construction and building
-purposes.</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Watch for black sage (<i>Artemisia
-tridentata</i>) along the right side of
-the trail. This is the purple sage of
-western fiction and is recognized
-by the silvery down on the leaves
-and the purplish color of the
-shaggy bark. The strong aromatic
-odor of sagebrush is especially
-noticeable after a rain.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c6">4.</h3>
-<p>In the desert varnish, the
-darker colored rock, note particularly
-a sequence showing hand
-prints, foot prints and a zig-zag
-trail going to a hole in the cliff.
-This could mean, &ldquo;Follow the hand
-and foot trail to the pool of water.&rdquo;</p>
-<p>The signature of Mr. Long is the
-most impressive one on the rock. It
-appears to have been carved between
-1850 and 1862, probably
-with a knife after being sketched.
-Just to your right around the corner,
-note &ldquo;Mr. Engle&rdquo; in block
-print and &ldquo;Mr. Bryn&rdquo; in script.
-Engle was Beale&rsquo;s second-in-command
-and Long and Bryn
-were members of Beale&rsquo;s company.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c7">5.</h3>
-<p>There is a good account of Mr. P. (Peachy) Gilmer Breckinridge
-from the Virginia Historical Society. He graduated from Virginia Military
-Institute, and as a young man rode across the continent to California.</p>
-<p>In 1857 Lt. Edward Beale was in charge of an expedition testing
-camels for use in the American deserts. Breckinridge was in charge of the
-25 camels used by Beale when they passed El Morro.</p>
-<p>Remaining there only a short time, he rode back to Virginia just in
-time to get into the Civil War. He was killed in a skirmish at Kennon&rsquo;s
-Landing, Virginia, in 1863.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig3">
-<img src="images/p02a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="404" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>E. Pen Long inscription</i></p>
-</div>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c8">6.</h3>
-<p>Here you observe a number of very faint Spanish inscriptions
-which have never been completely studied. Note the word &ldquo;a&ntilde;o&rdquo;
-(year) 1646. To the right is a lamp-blackened inscription reading
-&ldquo;paso por aqui Miguel Alfaro.&rdquo; (Passed by here, Miguel Alfaro). A
-date is not given, nor is the man yet known to us. Scholars, dating the
-inscriptions by letter style, say it was done about 1700.</p>
-<p>The round black discs along the bottom of the rock are section
-markers. Each one is lettered and they divide the face of the cliff into
-sections so the inscriptions can be easily located and recorded.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c9">7.</h3>
-<p>In Spanish, this inscription says: &ldquo;A veinticinco del mes de
-junio, a&ntilde;o de 1709 paso por aqui para Zu&ntilde;i&mdash;Ramon Garcia Jurado.&rdquo;
-Translated, it reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;On the 25th of the month of June, of this year of
-1709, passed by here on the way to Zu&ntilde;i&mdash;Ramon
-Garcia Jurado.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<div class="img" id="fig4">
-<img src="images/p02c.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="520" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Ramon Garcia Jurado inscription, 1709</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div>
-<p>You can find Se&ntilde;or Jurado&rsquo;s name in old Spanish documents. In
-1728 he was the &ldquo;alcalde mayor&rdquo; of the Keres district, not far south of
-Santa Fe.</p>
-<p>To your right is a blackened inscription which reads, translated,
-&ldquo;By here passed Pedro Romero on the 22nd of August, year of 1751.&rdquo;
-Little is known about this Spanish gentleman.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c10">8.</h3>
-<p>&ldquo;By here passed Andres Romero, of the year 1774.&rdquo; This
-Spaniard is unknown. The date is important because it is apparently
-the last Spanish inscription before the coming of the Americans in
-1849.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c11">9.</h3>
-<p>Notice the petroglyphs here, in particular the four mountain
-sheep and what appears to be a bear paw. These are, of course, far
-older than the Spanish inscriptions above them.</p>
-<p>The Spanish inscription reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Pasamos por aqu&iacute; el Sargento Mayor y el Capitan
-Jude de Archuleta y el Ayudante Diego Martin Barba
-y el Alferez Agustin de Ynojos a&ntilde;o de 1636.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Translated, it reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;We passed by here, the Sergeant Major and Captain
-Juan de Archuleta and Adjutant Diego Martin Barba
-and Ensign Agustin de Ynojos, the year of 1636.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The &ldquo;Sergeant Major&rdquo; was not an enlisted man, as now&mdash;he was
-the officer in direct command of the troops. The ensign was the standard
-bearer, corresponding in grade to a second lieutenant.</p>
-<p>Barba and Archuleta were accused of aiding a rebellion during one
-of the numerous civil disturbances that plagued the Spanish in New
-Mexico. In 1643 they were beheaded.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c12">10.</h3>
-<p>Here is the oldest and most famous inscription at El Morro. It
-was done by the first governor of New Mexico, Don Juan de O&ntilde;ate, in
-1605, 15 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.</p>
-<p>In 1604, O&ntilde;ate rode south with 30 men to the Gulf of California.
-On his return the next year, he made his inscription, which reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Paso por aqu&iacute; el adelantado Don Juan de O&ntilde;ate del
-descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de
-1605.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The translation reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Passed by here the Governor Don Juan de O&ntilde;ate,
-from the discovery of the Sea of the South on the 16th
-of April, 1605.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>By &ldquo;Sea of the South,&rdquo; O&ntilde;ate meant Gulf of California, an arm of
-the Pacific Ocean. He was not the first Spaniard to see it, of course.</p>
-<p>This was not O&ntilde;ate&rsquo;s first visit to El Morro&mdash;on December 13,
-1598, he passed here from Zu&ntilde;i with a group of Spanish soldiers,
-enroute to the Rio Grande via Acoma.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig5">
-<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="277" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Juan de O&ntilde;ate inscription. 1605</i></p>
-</div>
-<p>Below the O&ntilde;ate inscription, partly hidden by the yucca plant, is an
-inscription that reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;By here passed the Ensign Don Joseph de Payba
-Basconzelos, the year he brought the cabildo of the
-realm at his own expense the 18th of February, of the
-year 1726.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>What Basconzelos actually meant is not clear to us.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c13">11.</h3>
-<p>Continuing along the cliff, among the many inscriptions and
-petroglyphs you will be able to locate a church, stars, crucifixes, a little
-cavalry guidon (flag) and the prominent inscription of R. H. Orton,
-who was the Adjutant-General of California after the Civil War.
-You may also be able to locate the names of Simpson and Kern (but
-more about them at <a href="#s21a">post #21</a>.) The Indian Petroglyphs are higher on
-the rock because, through the centuries, erosion lowered the ground
-level.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c14"><span id="s12a">12.</span></h3>
-<p>Begin here with the highest set of inscriptions. The ground level
-was higher then, as shown by this tree, which surely did not begin
-growing on top of a mound! Done by one of New Mexico&rsquo;s most
-famous frontier governors, this inscription reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Aqui estuvo de General Don Diego de Vargas, quien
-conquisto a nuestra Santa Fe y a la Real Corona todo
-el Nuevo Mexico a su costa, A&ntilde;o de 1692.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>or:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who
-conquered for our Holy Faith, and for the Royal
-Crown, all of New Mexico at his own expense, year of
-1692.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>Twelve years earlier, in 1680, the Pueblo (Indian) revolt had taken
-place. Many Spanish were killed and the remainder fled to El Paso. In
-1692, de Vargas returned to re-establish Spanish control of the
-pueblos. He was later imprisoned for 3 years in the governor&rsquo;s palace
-and when released, restored as governor. He died in Bernalillo in
-1704.</p>
-<p>Below the de Vargas inscription are three names, &ldquo;Williamson,&rdquo;
-&ldquo;Holland,&rdquo; and &ldquo;John Udell,&rdquo; all with the same date of 1858. These
-men were members of the first emigrant train to try this new route to
-California.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div>
-<p>A good account of the trip can be found in the <i>Journal of John
-Udell</i>, a Baptist preacher who, with his 64-year-old wife, decided to
-visit his children in Sacramento. The party, consisting of 40 families
-and their equipment, finally reached the Colorado River, only to be
-attacked by the Mojave Indians. Several of the group were killed and
-practically all of their equipment stolen or burned.</p>
-<p>The survivors, including the elderly Udell and wife, returned to
-Albuquerque, walking most of the way. They passed El Morro
-enroute, arriving in Albuquerque, nearly starved, in November 1858.
-Remaining there for the winter, Udell and some of the others again
-started for California in 1859 in the company of Lt. Edward F. Beale,
-famous for his camel caravan of 1858, which also came west by way of
-El Morro.</p>
-<p>They had no difficulty reaching California, and finding their
-children in Sacramento. Mr. Udell is known to have died in the
-Golden State, a very old man.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c15">13.</h3>
-<p>The first emigrant train (mentioned in <a href="#s12a">station 12</a>) was led by
-Mr. L. J. Rose. He was born in Germany and moved to New Orleans
-in 1830. He later moved to Iowa where he became wealthy in the dry
-goods business.</p>
-<p>Rose was wounded by Mojave Indians in the attack mentioned by
-Udell. After recovering from his wounds he went to Los Angeles and
-became one of its leading citizens.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c16">14.</h3>
-<p>Some of the high carvings have the letters &ldquo;U. P. R.&rdquo; written
-after them. In 1868, the Union Pacific Railroad ran a survey through
-here, but the project was never carried out. The development of the
-Santa Fe Railroad 25 miles to the north effectively ended the use of El
-Morro as a stopping place.</p>
-<p>There is good reason to believe that practically all of the names you
-see here on the point date <i>after</i> 1850.</p>
-<p>Looking west along the rock, you will note that the inscriptions end
-about where the small juniper is growing. Probably the rough surface
-beyond the little tree discouraged carving.</p>
-<p>But don&rsquo;t stop here! Some of the best of the early Spanish inscriptions
-await you up the path.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c17">15.</h3>
-<p>Slightly to your left, several miles away, is a multi-colored
-mesa. It is composed of the same material as El Morro, was formed
-about the same time, and is approximately the same height. The
-brighter colors are caused by thin films of iron oxide around the sand
-grains, which are not conspicuously present in El Morro. Lack of
-water kept the early travelers from stopping there.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c18">16.</h3>
-<p>As the saying goes, the writer of this inscription &ldquo;counted his
-chickens before they hatched.&rdquo; He tells us:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Year of 1716 on the 26th of August passed by here
-Don Feliz Martinez, Governor and Captain General
-of this realm to the reduction and conquest of the Moqui
-<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span>
-(Hopi) and (in his company?) the reverend Father
-Friar Antonio Camargo, Custodian and ecclesiastical
-judge.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<div class="img" id="fig6">
-<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="220" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Don Feliz Martinez inscription, 1716</i></p>
-</div>
-<p>Governor Martinez found the Hopis unwilling to accept Spanish
-domination, and after about 2 months of quarreling, (mostly with
-words and fist-shaking) the expedition returned, quite unsuccessful, to
-Santa Fe.</p>
-<p>Now continue on up to the next landing.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c19">17.</h3>
-<p>Because they were written on the same day and seemingly in the
-same handwriting, we presume that this inscription and the one to
-the west were written by the same man. The first one says:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the
-Bachelor Don Juan Ignacio of Arrasain.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The second reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the
-illustrious Se&ntilde;or Don Martin de Elizacochea, Bishop
-of Durango, and the day following, went on to Zu&ntilde;i.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The good &ldquo;Bachelor&rdquo; was a Bachelor of Laws, not necessarily a
-single man. The event records one of the first visits to this territory by
-a Bishop from Durango, Mexico.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig7">
-<img src="images/p04a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="587" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Don Martin de Elizacochea inscription, 1737</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig8">
-<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="681" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Ni&eacute;to Poem, 1629</i></p>
-</div>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c20">18.</h3>
-<p>Inscriptions on the north side are difficult to photograph,
-because the sun shines around here only a couple of hours per day during
-the summer. Here is the only poem on the rock:</p>
-<div class="verse">
-<p class="t0">&ldquo;Aqui (llego el Se&ntilde;or) y Gobernor</p>
-<p class="t0">Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto</p>
-<p class="t0">Que lo imposible tiene ya subjeto</p>
-<p class="t0">Su brazo indubitable y su valor</p>
-<p class="t0">Con los carros del Rey Nuestro Se&ntilde;or</p>
-<p class="t0">Cosa Que solo el puso en este efecto</p>
-<p class="t0">De Agostos 5 (Mil) Seiscientos Veinte Nueve</p>
-<p class="t0">Que se Bien a Zu&ntilde;i pasa y la Fe lleve.&rdquo;</p>
-</div>
-<p>The poem, of course does not rhyme when translated into English.</p>
-<div class="verse">
-<p class="t0">&ldquo;Here arrived the Se&ntilde;or and Governor</p>
-<p class="t0">Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto</p>
-<p class="t0">Whose indubitable arm and valor</p>
-<p class="t0">Have overcome the impossible</p>
-<p class="t0">With the wagons of the King our Lord</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div>
-<p class="t0">A thing which he alone put into this effect</p>
-<p class="t0">August 5, 1629 that one may well to Zu&ntilde;i</p>
-<p class="t0">pass and carry the faith.&rdquo;</p>
-</div>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c21">19.</h3>
-<p>If you are an enlisted man, you&rsquo;ll appreciate this one. The first
-two lines of the inscription read:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;The 14th day of July 1736 passed by here the General
-Juan Paez Hurtado, Inspector.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The second two lines, no doubt added when the good general&rsquo;s back
-was turned, read:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;And in his company, the Corporal Joseph Trujillo!&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>We wonder what ever happened to Corporal Trujillo!</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c22"><span id="s20a">20.</span></h3>
-<p>You are now looking at the longest and one of the most interesting
-inscriptions on the rock, supposedly done by Governor
-Eulate:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;I am the captain General of the Providence of New
-Mexico for the King our Lord, passed by here on the
-return from the pueblos of Zu&ntilde;i on the 29th of July
-the year 1620, and put them at peace at their humble
-petition, they asking favor as vassals of his Majesty
-and promising anew their obedience, all of which he
-did, with clemency, zeal, and prudence, as a most
-Christian-like (gentleman) extraordinary and gallant
-soldier of enduring and praised memory.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The word crossed out appears to have been &ldquo;gentleman.&rdquo; Somebody
-who knew the old boy apparently took exception to all this highflown
-praise. (That the erasure was done before 1849 can be proved, see
-Simpson, next).</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c23"><span id="s21a">21.</span></h3>
-<p>Lt. J. H. Simpson, an engineer for the army, and Mr. R. H.
-Kern, a Philadelphia artist who rode around with the army drawing
-pictures, were the first English-speaking people to make a record of
-Inscription Rock.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig9">
-<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="292" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Eulate inscription, 1620</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig10">
-<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="391" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Simpson and Kern inscription, 1849</i></p>
-</div>
-<p>They spent 2 days copying the inscriptions, and stated that when
-they were here, not a single English inscription could be found on the
-rock.</p>
-<p>Recall the word &ldquo;gentleman&rdquo; crossed out back at <a href="#s20a">Stake No. 20</a>? Mr.
-Kern&rsquo;s drawing faithfully shows the word X&rsquo;d out just as you saw it.</p>
-<p>The Spanish inscription below was done by one of three Spanish
-soldiers left to &ldquo;guard&rdquo; 2,000 Zu&ntilde;i Indians in 1699. It reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;I am of the hand (that is, written by) of Felipe de
-Arellano on the 16th of September, soldier.&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>In 1700, the Zu&ntilde;is apparently thought the odds in their favor were
-good, so they killed the three Spaniards.</p>
-<p>To the right of Arellano&rsquo;s inscription is a marvel of Spanish &ldquo;shorthand.&rdquo;
-A good scholar translated it for us. Here it is in both Spanish
-and English:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;Se pasaron a 23 de marzo de 1632 a&ntilde;os a la venganza
-de muerte del Padre Letrado.&mdash;Lujan&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>The translation reads:</p>
-<blockquote>
-<p>&ldquo;They passed on the 23rd of March, 1632, to the
-avenging of the death of the Father Letrado.&mdash;Lujan&rdquo;</p>
-</blockquote>
-<p>About the year 1629, Father Letrado built the earliest mission
-chapel at what we call today Salinas National Monument (near Mountainair,
-New Mexico, southwest of Albuquerque).</p>
-<p>He was transferred to Zu&ntilde;i in February of 1632 and was killed just a
-week later. On hearing the news in Santa Fe, Lujan and a party of
-soldiers reached Zu&ntilde;i in remarkably fast time.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig11">
-<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="362" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Lujan inscription, 1632</i></p>
-</div>
-<p>This is the end of the inscription part of our trail. You may retrace
-your steps back to headquarters, or, if you wish, you may continue
-your hike on up over the mesa top, past the ruins, and down to headquarters
-by the return trail on the other side.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">Please stay on the trail</span></p>
-<h2 id="c24"><span class="small">TRAIL TO THE TOP OF THE ROCK AND RUINS</span></h2>
-<p>The first stake is some distance along the trail, so keep walking and
-watch for it.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c25">1.</h3>
-<p>The cave-like depressions in the side of the rock are created by
-water. Rain falling on the top of the mesa enters cracks in the rock,
-runs down the cracks (called joints), and comes out of small openings
-on the side of the mesa. The water seeping out of the opening gradually
-wears away the rock. The freezing of the water in winter and thawing
-in summer helps to weaken the sandstone.</p>
-<p>The tall trees in the vicinity of this stake are ponderosa pine (<i>Pinus
-ponderosa</i>). They are readily identified by the needles, which grow
-two or three to a cluster. These trees grow in well-watered, protected
-areas within the Monument. The larger ones are somewhere between
-200 and 300 years old.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c26">2.</h3>
-<p>Here you can stop and catch your breath before beginning the
-steep climb. Look at the top of the mesa, to your right, just below the
-railing. You can see very clearly two different formations of rock. The
-lower is the sandstone called Zu&ntilde;i formation and the higher is the
-Dakota formation. The line between these two formations represents a
-time interval of between 25 and 30 million years. More about this
-later.</p>
-<p>Behind the numbered stake near the base of the rock, you will see a
-Gambel oak (<i>Quercus gambelii</i>). It is commonly associated with
-<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span>
-ponderosa pine and is the most abundant oak of the low mountains
-and plateaus of the Southwest. It is characterized by its deeply-lobed
-leaves, and its habit of growth. It ranges from a shrub to a tree in size,
-and is often seen in dense stands, which give it the name of &ldquo;scrub&rdquo;
-oak in certain localities. Deer and livestock browse this tree, and small
-animals use its acorns for food.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c27">3.</h3>
-<p>The policy of the National Park Service is to keep the parks
-looking as natural as possible. Since it is natural for dead trees to be in
-a forest the ones you see in this area will not be cleaned up. When a
-tree falls in a National Park Service area it will lie where it fell and
-eventually will decay and supply nourishment for future trees.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c28">4.</h3>
-<p>Take a break here and look at the valley between the multicolored
-mesa and the higher parts of the Zu&ntilde;i Mountains. This valley
-was formed by water gradually wearing away the softer rocks of the
-Chinle formation. The harder sandstones of El Morro and the adjacent
-mesa on the southwest and the sandstones and limestones of the
-higher slopes resisted such erosion.</p>
-<p>During the last few million years, while the Zu&ntilde;i Mountains were
-being gradually pushed up to their present height, more than 10,000
-feet of sedimentary rocks have been removed from what you see. This
-has been done by running water and wind, carrying away the rocks a
-few particles at a time. Before that, about 100 million years ago, this
-entire area, as far as you can see in any direction, was under the water
-of an ancient ocean. Forty million years before that, the sands of El
-Morro were accumulating on a broad, desert-like plain, built up by
-sand deposition of sluggish, wandering streams, and re-sorted by wind
-into large dunes.</p>
-<p>Before continuing along the trail, you will notice many small trees
-around you which are called pinyon (<i>Pinus edulis</i>). These pine trees
-have two needles to a cluster and are never tall like the ponderosa
-pine. They are usually less than 35 feet in height, and have a rounded,
-compact crown. Pinyons are seldom found growing in pure stands but
-are associated with various kinds of juniper. Because of the nature of
-their growth, heavy stands of pinyon and juniper are often called
-pigmy forests. The pinyon produces edible nuts which are abundantly
-used by local residents as well as marketed commercially elsewhere in
-the United States.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c29">5.</h3>
-<p>Here you can see at close hand the difference between the dark,
-upper layers of ocean sands and the light color of the lower and earlier
-stream and dune sands. Look here at the cliff above you and a little to
-the right. The lower is Zu&ntilde;i sandstone, of the Jurassic period, and
-forms the bulk of El Morro. The upper is Dakota sandstone of
-Cretaceous period, representing beach deposits of the ancient sea
-which covered all the area. The contact surface between these two
-units represents a time interval of between 25 and 50 million years
-when erosion instead of new deposition was taking place.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c30">6.</h3>
-<p>Look on the left side of the trail and a little behind you. You
-will see a dark green stake that marks one of the four corners of the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span>
-unexcavated ruin. Let your eye follow along the top of the incline to
-your right and you will see another green stake, another corner. As
-you follow the trail on this side of the box canyon, look to your left for
-the last two stakes and you can tell how big this ruin is. Please do not
-leave the trail.</p>
-<p>This village was possibly two or three stories high, but after the Indians
-left, the roofs collapsed and the walls fell in. Then the sand blew
-in, weeds began to grow, and you see the result.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c31"><span id="s7b">7.</span></h3>
-<p>Looking at the cliff wall across this little box canyon, you can
-see a definite horizontal line about half way down. The materials
-above and below the line were laid down about the same time, but the
-line represents a layer of softer material which has weathered away
-faster.</p>
-<p>The reason for the unevenness is that stream channels cut into the
-underlying sandstone, and then, as the land slowly settled to allow the
-sea to encroach, the channels filled up with sand. The sands were
-reworked by waves on the beach and the tops smoothed out and leveled.
-Small lagoons and swampy areas formed along the coastline. As
-you climb the steps at <a href="#s11b">No. 11</a>, you will cross a small seam of coal-like
-material which was formed from one of these swamps.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig12">
-<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="796" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>The geological disconformity described at <a href="#s7b">Stake 7</a>.</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div>
-<p>If you look across the box canyon, on the horizon you will see the
-ruins of another village. It was occupied about the same time as the
-one on this side of the mesa.</p>
-<p>Across the top of the mesa, the trail will be marked with two
-parallel lines. Please stay between the lines.</p>
-<p class="center"><span class="ss">STAY ON THE TRAIL</span></p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c32">8.</h3>
-<p>The boulders of mixed colors topping the pedestals of Zu&ntilde;i sandstone
-are the Basal Conglomerate of the Dakota formation. This involved
-erosion and reworking of the old surface (Zu&ntilde;i) plus the deposition
-of new materials. Thus some of the light colored particles in the
-Dakota are Zu&ntilde;i sandstone.</p>
-<p>The steps cut in the rock were constructed by the National Park Service.
-They are not the work of prehistoric Indians.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c33">9.</h3>
-<p>The line, to the left of the post, extending through the rock on
-both sides of the mesa, is one of the principal causes of the development
-of the box canyon. After El Morro was buried by several thousand
-feet of younger rocks, some 60 million years ago, it was subjected
-to great pressures from the weight of the overlying rocks and the
-movements which caused the Zu&ntilde;i Mountains to project so far above
-sea level. These pressures caused the sandstone to crack into the long
-openings which we call joints. As running water and wind gradually
-removed the overlying rocks, the waters were able to run down into
-the joints and, alternately freezing and thawing, broke up the rock into
-small fragments which could be washed away.</p>
-<p>If you stand on this line and look down the box canyon to the west,
-you can see that each steep canyon wall is simply one side of a joint,
-while the material on the other side has been eroded away. If you look
-eastward towards the headquarters area, along this joint line, you can
-see how El Morro maintains its vertical walls by breaking into blocks
-which fall away from the main mass of the sandstone and leave a vertical
-joint face. This joint line is different from the others which you
-may have noticed in climbing over the rock because it goes so far and
-cuts through the rock so deeply.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c34">10.</h3>
-<p>The dark colored splotches are lichens. A lichen is composed of
-two different organisms, an alga and a fungus, living together and
-supporting each other. The fungus furnishes the moisture for the alga,
-and the alga the food for the fungus. This coexistence is known as symbiosis.</p>
-<p>As you walk from No. 10 to 11, you will pass several potholes that
-become pools of water after a rain. Some of these were artificially
-enlarged by the Indians who lived on the mesa top, to serve as supplementary
-sources of water.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c35"><span id="s11b">11.</span></h3>
-<p>The dark color here is caused by carbonized remains from the
-plants which grew in the ancient swamps. Coal is formed in much the
-same way, but there is too much inorganic material in this seam to
-produce coal. This is the coal-like seam mentioned at <a href="#s7b">No. 7</a>. On the
-<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span>
-very top, the dirt is from the Mancos formation of Cretaceous age, and
-is composed of marine shales deposited in the ancient sea which
-covered the area. It was originally much thicker, and is younger than
-any of the other rocks exposed here.</p>
-<p>Immediately ahead and extending to the right for nearly 300 feet is
-the ruin called <i>Atsinna</i>, a Zu&ntilde;i word referring to the &ldquo;writing on
-rock.&rdquo;</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c36">12.</h3>
-<p>Atsinna, the larger of the two ruins, is approximately 200 by
-300 feet, the size of some city blocks. Like the other village, parts of it
-probably were three stories high, mainly along the north side. It was
-terraced down toward the south, thus providing a southern exposure.
-You are standing on the second floor level about ten feet above the
-original ground level. The first floor was filled with debris from the
-collapse of the upper stories.</p>
-<p>The Indians obtained most of their water from the pool at the base
-of the rock, as did the later Spanish and American travelers, but they
-also caught as much water as they could on the mesa top.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c37">13.</h3>
-<p>This round room, is called a <i>kiva</i>. Kivas were built primarily
-for religious ceremonial reasons, but had other purposes, just as the
-large halls in cities today are used for exhibits, concerts, lectures, and
-other activities. In addition to religion, these rooms were used for
-workrooms, playrooms, general meeting places, fraternal society
-meetings, etc.</p>
-<div class="img" id="fig13">
-<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="815" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>A portion of Atsinna. Part of the square kiva is shown at lower left</i></p>
-</div>
-<p>Now contrast this round kiva with the square kiva across the trail
-toward the northeast. Both kivas served the same functions, but they
-represent two different architectural styles or traditions in use at approximately
-the same time.</p>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig14">
-<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="822" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>The box canyon as seen from its eastern end looking west</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="img" id="fig15">
-<img src="images/p09a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="824" />
-<p class="pcap"><i>Looking out over Inscription Rock from the south</i></p>
-</div>
-<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div>
-<p>Atsinna was occupied during the 13th and 14th centuries. The
-reason for the abandonment of this site is not definitely known.
-Perhaps the Indians found that the growing seasons were too short at
-this elevation and they had too many crop failures. Apparently these
-people moved to the west, where they founded the several Zu&ntilde;i
-villages known in historic times. There, around the present pueblo of
-Zu&ntilde;i, the growing season is slightly longer and irrigation can be practiced,
-and possibly the soil is more fertile.</p>
-<p>The prominent peak on the horizon to the south is called <i>Cerro
-Alto</i>, which is Spanish for high mountain. This peak is a volcanic
-cinder cone.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c38">14.</h3>
-<p>The stones you see at this station were used for grinding corn
-after it had been dried and stored. The corn was placed on the large
-stone called <i>metate</i> and ground with the smaller stone called <i>mano</i>.</p>
-<h3 class="inline" id="c39">15.</h3>
-<p>The trail now descends from the mesa top back to the Monument
-headquarters. We hope that you have enjoyed your trip over Inscription
-Rock. Should you have any questions, the ranger on duty
-will be happy to be of assistance.</p>
-<hr class="dwide" />
-<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ssn smaller">
-<br />PUBLISHED IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE BY
-<br /><b>SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION</b>
-<br />221 NORTH COURT
-<br />TUCSON, ARIZONA 85701</span></p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p09d.jpg" id="ncfig1" alt="SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION &#8226; NATIONAL PARK SERVICE" width="600" height="234" />
-</div>
-<p class="small ssn">Southwest Parks and Monuments association was founded in 1938 to aid
-and promote the educational
-and scientific activities of the National Park Service. As a nonprofit
-organization authorized by Congress,
-it makes interpretive material available to park visitors by sale or
-free distribution. All net proceeds
-support the interpretive and research programs of the National Park Service.</p>
-<p><span class="ss smaller">21st Edition&mdash;10M&mdash;8/92</span></p>
-<div class="img">
-<img src="images/p10.jpg" id="ncfig2" alt="Back cover" width="1000" height="1515" />
-</div>
-<h2 id="trnotes">Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes</h2>
-<ul>
-<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li>
-<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li>
-<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li>
-</ul>
-<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS ***</div>
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