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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b635c6 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #65891 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/65891) diff --git a/old/65891-0.txt b/old/65891-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 59d9a3d..0000000 --- a/old/65891-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1135 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of El Morro Trails, by Anonymous - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: El Morro Trails - El Morro National Monument, New Mexico - -Author: Anonymous - -Release Date: July 21, 2021 [eBook #65891] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -Produced by: Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS *** - - - - - _El Morro Trails_ - EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEW MEXICO - - - PRICE: 50 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME - - [Illustration: _Inscription Rock, El Morro National Monument_] - - - - - Introduction - - -In the year 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado came up from Mexico with -some 350 Spanish soldiers and crossed southeastern Arizona to Zuñi, a -pueblo 30 miles west of El Morro. Breaking up into several groups, they -went eastward 70 miles to Acoma Pueblo and thence to the Rio Grande. At -least one of the groups probably passed El Morro enroute. - -The first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal -of Diego Pérez de Luxán, chronicler of the Espejo expedition of 1583. -Luxán stopped here for water on March 11 of that year. - -For some 300 years, hundreds of Spanish soldiers and priests, enroute -between Santa Fe and Zuñi, and the Hopi villages farther north, passed -El Morro. Many left names and notations about themselves carved into the -soft sandstone. - -After 1849, American soldiers, emigrants, freighters, and adventurers -camped here because of the never-failing waterhole. In 1906, El Morro -was set aside as a National Monument and additional name carving was -prohibited. - -The name “El Morro” simply means “the headland” or “the bluff,” and -refers to the appearance of this mesa-point from a distance. - - KEEP AMERICA BEAUTIFUL - - - - - _El Morro Trails_ - - - - - INSCRIPTION ROCK TRAIL - - -The trail begins directly behind the Monument headquarters, and climbs -gradually toward the rock. Just follow the arrows and _do not hurry_. It -is 7,200 feet above sea level here, and the altitude may bother some of -you. The hike past the inscriptions and back to the office normally -takes from 30 to 40 minutes. - -After viewing the inscriptions, you may, if you wish, continue up over -the top of the rock and visit two large prehistoric Indian ruins. This -extra hike will take you another 1 to 1½ hours. - -Starting near the base of the mesa the trail has been marked with -numbered stations which match the numbered paragraphs in this booklet. -Read and enjoy yourself as you walk. - -No one has ever been bitten here, but watch along the path for -rattlesnakes. - - Please leave the Monument as neat as you found it. - - -1. If you look closely at the rock, about 12 feet above the ground, -you will see some notches cut into the sandstone. These are footholds. -Probably most Indians came to the pool by the long, safe way, but -others, caring more for their thirst than their lives, came down from -the mesa top through the high notch to the right and above you. - - Do not, under any circumstances, try coming down this short way—the - rock is extremely slippery. If you go to the top, stay on the marked - trail. - - -2. Now you see why travelers stopped here. There is no spring; the -pool is fed largely by rain falling in July, August, and September, and -by melting snows. When full it is about 12 feet deep and holds about -200,000 gallons of water. - - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING INTO THE POOL! - -If you look closely around the walls at about eye level, even on the far -side, you can see names carved into the rock. Most of these date from -1850 to 1900, and were the work of emigrants and soldiers. - -How did they get over there? In the early days, there was probably a -sandbank around the edge, and people could ride or walk around the pool. -In 1942, a heavy rock fall filled the waterhole. When the sand and -rubble were removed, the old dam was reinforced and lined with concrete. - - Do not write or carve on the cliff, and please don’t touch. Touching - the inscriptions causes them to wear away more rapidly. - -The mud formations on the face of the rock above the pool are the nests -of cliff swallows. These birds come to El Morro each year to nest and -raise their young. - - [Illustration: _The waterhole_] - - -3. Along the base of the mesa are examples of the predominant types of -trees found in the Southwest. From left to right these are: - - (1) One-seed juniper (_Juniperus monosperma_), which can be used for - fenceposts and fuel. - - (2) Pinyon pine (_Pinus edulis_), noted for its edible nuts which are - harvested in the fall. - - (3) Ponderosa pine (_Pinus ponderosa_), which provides excellent wood - for construction and building purposes. - -Watch for black sage (_Artemisia tridentata_) along the right side of -the trail. This is the purple sage of western fiction and is recognized -by the silvery down on the leaves and the purplish color of the shaggy -bark. The strong aromatic odor of sagebrush is especially noticeable -after a rain. - - -4. In the desert varnish, the darker colored rock, note particularly a -sequence showing hand prints, foot prints and a zig-zag trail going to a -hole in the cliff. This could mean, “Follow the hand and foot trail to -the pool of water.” - -The signature of Mr. Long is the most impressive one on the rock. It -appears to have been carved between 1850 and 1862, probably with a knife -after being sketched. Just to your right around the corner, note “Mr. -Engle” in block print and “Mr. Bryn” in script. Engle was Beale’s -second-in-command and Long and Bryn were members of Beale’s company. - - -5. There is a good account of Mr. P. (Peachy) Gilmer Breckinridge from -the Virginia Historical Society. He graduated from Virginia Military -Institute, and as a young man rode across the continent to California. - -In 1857 Lt. Edward Beale was in charge of an expedition testing camels -for use in the American deserts. Breckinridge was in charge of the 25 -camels used by Beale when they passed El Morro. - -Remaining there only a short time, he rode back to Virginia just in time -to get into the Civil War. He was killed in a skirmish at Kennon’s -Landing, Virginia, in 1863. - - [Illustration: _E. Pen Long inscription_] - - -6. Here you observe a number of very faint Spanish inscriptions which -have never been completely studied. Note the word “año” (year) 1646. To -the right is a lamp-blackened inscription reading “paso por aqui Miguel -Alfaro.” (Passed by here, Miguel Alfaro). A date is not given, nor is -the man yet known to us. Scholars, dating the inscriptions by letter -style, say it was done about 1700. - -The round black discs along the bottom of the rock are section markers. -Each one is lettered and they divide the face of the cliff into sections -so the inscriptions can be easily located and recorded. - - -7. In Spanish, this inscription says: “A veinticinco del mes de junio, -año de 1709 paso por aqui para Zuñi—Ramon Garcia Jurado.” Translated, it -reads: - - “On the 25th of the month of June, of this year of 1709, passed by - here on the way to Zuñi—Ramon Garcia Jurado.” - - [Illustration: _Ramon Garcia Jurado inscription, 1709_] - -You can find Señor Jurado’s name in old Spanish documents. In 1728 he -was the “alcalde mayor” of the Keres district, not far south of Santa -Fe. - -To your right is a blackened inscription which reads, translated, “By -here passed Pedro Romero on the 22nd of August, year of 1751.” Little is -known about this Spanish gentleman. - - -8. “By here passed Andres Romero, of the year 1774.” This Spaniard is -unknown. The date is important because it is apparently the last Spanish -inscription before the coming of the Americans in 1849. - - -9. Notice the petroglyphs here, in particular the four mountain sheep -and what appears to be a bear paw. These are, of course, far older than -the Spanish inscriptions above them. - -The Spanish inscription reads: - - “Pasamos por aquí el Sargento Mayor y el Capitan Jude de Archuleta y - el Ayudante Diego Martin Barba y el Alferez Agustin de Ynojos año de - 1636.” - -Translated, it reads: - - “We passed by here, the Sergeant Major and Captain Juan de Archuleta - and Adjutant Diego Martin Barba and Ensign Agustin de Ynojos, the year - of 1636.” - -The “Sergeant Major” was not an enlisted man, as now—he was the officer -in direct command of the troops. The ensign was the standard bearer, -corresponding in grade to a second lieutenant. - -Barba and Archuleta were accused of aiding a rebellion during one of the -numerous civil disturbances that plagued the Spanish in New Mexico. In -1643 they were beheaded. - - -10. Here is the oldest and most famous inscription at El Morro. It was -done by the first governor of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oñate, in 1605, 15 -years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. - -In 1604, Oñate rode south with 30 men to the Gulf of California. On his -return the next year, he made his inscription, which reads: - - “Paso por aquí el adelantado Don Juan de Oñate del descubrimiento de - la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de 1605.” - -The translation reads: - - “Passed by here the Governor Don Juan de Oñate, from the discovery of - the Sea of the South on the 16th of April, 1605.” - -By “Sea of the South,” Oñate meant Gulf of California, an arm of the -Pacific Ocean. He was not the first Spaniard to see it, of course. - -This was not Oñate’s first visit to El Morro—on December 13, 1598, he -passed here from Zuñi with a group of Spanish soldiers, enroute to the -Rio Grande via Acoma. - - [Illustration: _Juan de Oñate inscription. 1605_] - -Below the Oñate inscription, partly hidden by the yucca plant, is an -inscription that reads: - - “By here passed the Ensign Don Joseph de Payba Basconzelos, the year - he brought the cabildo of the realm at his own expense the 18th of - February, of the year 1726.” - -What Basconzelos actually meant is not clear to us. - - -11. Continuing along the cliff, among the many inscriptions and -petroglyphs you will be able to locate a church, stars, crucifixes, a -little cavalry guidon (flag) and the prominent inscription of R. H. -Orton, who was the Adjutant-General of California after the Civil War. -You may also be able to locate the names of Simpson and Kern (but more -about them at post #21.) The Indian Petroglyphs are higher on the rock -because, through the centuries, erosion lowered the ground level. - - -12. Begin here with the highest set of inscriptions. The ground level -was higher then, as shown by this tree, which surely did not begin -growing on top of a mound! Done by one of New Mexico’s most famous -frontier governors, this inscription reads: - - “Aqui estuvo de General Don Diego de Vargas, quien conquisto a nuestra - Santa Fe y a la Real Corona todo el Nuevo Mexico a su costa, Año de - 1692.” - -or: - - “Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who conquered for our Holy - Faith, and for the Royal Crown, all of New Mexico at his own expense, - year of 1692.” - -Twelve years earlier, in 1680, the Pueblo (Indian) revolt had taken -place. Many Spanish were killed and the remainder fled to El Paso. In -1692, de Vargas returned to re-establish Spanish control of the pueblos. -He was later imprisoned for 3 years in the governor’s palace and when -released, restored as governor. He died in Bernalillo in 1704. - -Below the de Vargas inscription are three names, “Williamson,” -“Holland,” and “John Udell,” all with the same date of 1858. These men -were members of the first emigrant train to try this new route to -California. - -A good account of the trip can be found in the _Journal of John Udell_, -a Baptist preacher who, with his 64-year-old wife, decided to visit his -children in Sacramento. The party, consisting of 40 families and their -equipment, finally reached the Colorado River, only to be attacked by -the Mojave Indians. Several of the group were killed and practically all -of their equipment stolen or burned. - -The survivors, including the elderly Udell and wife, returned to -Albuquerque, walking most of the way. They passed El Morro enroute, -arriving in Albuquerque, nearly starved, in November 1858. Remaining -there for the winter, Udell and some of the others again started for -California in 1859 in the company of Lt. Edward F. Beale, famous for his -camel caravan of 1858, which also came west by way of El Morro. - -They had no difficulty reaching California, and finding their children -in Sacramento. Mr. Udell is known to have died in the Golden State, a -very old man. - - -13. The first emigrant train (mentioned in station 12) was led by Mr. -L. J. Rose. He was born in Germany and moved to New Orleans in 1830. He -later moved to Iowa where he became wealthy in the dry goods business. - -Rose was wounded by Mojave Indians in the attack mentioned by Udell. -After recovering from his wounds he went to Los Angeles and became one -of its leading citizens. - - -14. Some of the high carvings have the letters “U. P. R.” written -after them. In 1868, the Union Pacific Railroad ran a survey through -here, but the project was never carried out. The development of the -Santa Fe Railroad 25 miles to the north effectively ended the use of El -Morro as a stopping place. - -There is good reason to believe that practically all of the names you -see here on the point date _after_ 1850. - -Looking west along the rock, you will note that the inscriptions end -about where the small juniper is growing. Probably the rough surface -beyond the little tree discouraged carving. - -But don’t stop here! Some of the best of the early Spanish inscriptions -await you up the path. - - -15. Slightly to your left, several miles away, is a multi-colored -mesa. It is composed of the same material as El Morro, was formed about -the same time, and is approximately the same height. The brighter colors -are caused by thin films of iron oxide around the sand grains, which are -not conspicuously present in El Morro. Lack of water kept the early -travelers from stopping there. - - -16. As the saying goes, the writer of this inscription “counted his -chickens before they hatched.” He tells us: - - “Year of 1716 on the 26th of August passed by here Don Feliz Martinez, - Governor and Captain General of this realm to the reduction and - conquest of the Moqui (Hopi) and (in his company?) the reverend Father - Friar Antonio Camargo, Custodian and ecclesiastical judge.” - - [Illustration: _Don Feliz Martinez inscription, 1716_] - -Governor Martinez found the Hopis unwilling to accept Spanish -domination, and after about 2 months of quarreling, (mostly with words -and fist-shaking) the expedition returned, quite unsuccessful, to Santa -Fe. - -Now continue on up to the next landing. - - -17. Because they were written on the same day and seemingly in the -same handwriting, we presume that this inscription and the one to the -west were written by the same man. The first one says: - - “The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the Bachelor Don Juan - Ignacio of Arrasain.” - -The second reads: - - “The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the illustrious Señor - Don Martin de Elizacochea, Bishop of Durango, and the day following, - went on to Zuñi.” - -The good “Bachelor” was a Bachelor of Laws, not necessarily a single -man. The event records one of the first visits to this territory by a -Bishop from Durango, Mexico. - - [Illustration: _Don Martin de Elizacochea inscription, 1737_] - - [Illustration: _Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Niéto Poem, 1629_] - - -18. Inscriptions on the north side are difficult to photograph, -because the sun shines around here only a couple of hours per day during -the summer. Here is the only poem on the rock: - - “Aqui (llego el Señor) y Gobernor - Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto - Que lo imposible tiene ya subjeto - Su brazo indubitable y su valor - Con los carros del Rey Nuestro Señor - Cosa Que solo el puso en este efecto - De Agostos 5 (Mil) Seiscientos Veinte Nueve - Que se Bien a Zuñi pasa y la Fe lleve.” - -The poem, of course does not rhyme when translated into English. - - “Here arrived the Señor and Governor - Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto - Whose indubitable arm and valor - Have overcome the impossible - With the wagons of the King our Lord - A thing which he alone put into this effect - August 5, 1629 that one may well to Zuñi - pass and carry the faith.” - - -19. If you are an enlisted man, you’ll appreciate this one. The first -two lines of the inscription read: - - “The 14th day of July 1736 passed by here the General Juan Paez - Hurtado, Inspector.” - -The second two lines, no doubt added when the good general’s back was -turned, read: - - “And in his company, the Corporal Joseph Trujillo!” - -We wonder what ever happened to Corporal Trujillo! - - -20. You are now looking at the longest and one of the most interesting -inscriptions on the rock, supposedly done by Governor Eulate: - - “I am the captain General of the Providence of New Mexico for the King - our Lord, passed by here on the return from the pueblos of Zuñi on the - 29th of July the year 1620, and put them at peace at their humble - petition, they asking favor as vassals of his Majesty and promising - anew their obedience, all of which he did, with clemency, zeal, and - prudence, as a most Christian-like (gentleman) extraordinary and - gallant soldier of enduring and praised memory.” - -The word crossed out appears to have been “gentleman.” Somebody who knew -the old boy apparently took exception to all this highflown praise. -(That the erasure was done before 1849 can be proved, see Simpson, -next). - - -21. Lt. J. H. Simpson, an engineer for the army, and Mr. R. H. Kern, a -Philadelphia artist who rode around with the army drawing pictures, were -the first English-speaking people to make a record of Inscription Rock. - - [Illustration: _Eulate inscription, 1620_] - - [Illustration: _Simpson and Kern inscription, 1849_] - -They spent 2 days copying the inscriptions, and stated that when they -were here, not a single English inscription could be found on the rock. - -Recall the word “gentleman” crossed out back at Stake No. 20? Mr. Kern’s -drawing faithfully shows the word X’d out just as you saw it. - -The Spanish inscription below was done by one of three Spanish soldiers -left to “guard” 2,000 Zuñi Indians in 1699. It reads: - - “I am of the hand (that is, written by) of Felipe de Arellano on the - 16th of September, soldier.” - -In 1700, the Zuñis apparently thought the odds in their favor were good, -so they killed the three Spaniards. - -To the right of Arellano’s inscription is a marvel of Spanish -“shorthand.” A good scholar translated it for us. Here it is in both -Spanish and English: - - “Se pasaron a 23 de marzo de 1632 años a la venganza de muerte del - Padre Letrado.—Lujan” - -The translation reads: - - “They passed on the 23rd of March, 1632, to the avenging of the death - of the Father Letrado.—Lujan” - -About the year 1629, Father Letrado built the earliest mission chapel at -what we call today Salinas National Monument (near Mountainair, New -Mexico, southwest of Albuquerque). - -He was transferred to Zuñi in February of 1632 and was killed just a -week later. On hearing the news in Santa Fe, Lujan and a party of -soldiers reached Zuñi in remarkably fast time. - - [Illustration: _Lujan inscription, 1632_] - -This is the end of the inscription part of our trail. You may retrace -your steps back to headquarters, or, if you wish, you may continue your -hike on up over the mesa top, past the ruins, and down to headquarters -by the return trail on the other side. - - Please stay on the trail - - - - - TRAIL TO THE TOP OF THE ROCK AND RUINS - - -The first stake is some distance along the trail, so keep walking and -watch for it. - - -1. The cave-like depressions in the side of the rock are created by -water. Rain falling on the top of the mesa enters cracks in the rock, -runs down the cracks (called joints), and comes out of small openings on -the side of the mesa. The water seeping out of the opening gradually -wears away the rock. The freezing of the water in winter and thawing in -summer helps to weaken the sandstone. - -The tall trees in the vicinity of this stake are ponderosa pine (_Pinus -ponderosa_). They are readily identified by the needles, which grow two -or three to a cluster. These trees grow in well-watered, protected areas -within the Monument. The larger ones are somewhere between 200 and 300 -years old. - - -2. Here you can stop and catch your breath before beginning the steep -climb. Look at the top of the mesa, to your right, just below the -railing. You can see very clearly two different formations of rock. The -lower is the sandstone called Zuñi formation and the higher is the -Dakota formation. The line between these two formations represents a -time interval of between 25 and 30 million years. More about this later. - -Behind the numbered stake near the base of the rock, you will see a -Gambel oak (_Quercus gambelii_). It is commonly associated with -ponderosa pine and is the most abundant oak of the low mountains and -plateaus of the Southwest. It is characterized by its deeply-lobed -leaves, and its habit of growth. It ranges from a shrub to a tree in -size, and is often seen in dense stands, which give it the name of -“scrub” oak in certain localities. Deer and livestock browse this tree, -and small animals use its acorns for food. - - -3. The policy of the National Park Service is to keep the parks -looking as natural as possible. Since it is natural for dead trees to be -in a forest the ones you see in this area will not be cleaned up. When a -tree falls in a National Park Service area it will lie where it fell and -eventually will decay and supply nourishment for future trees. - - -4. Take a break here and look at the valley between the multicolored -mesa and the higher parts of the Zuñi Mountains. This valley was formed -by water gradually wearing away the softer rocks of the Chinle -formation. The harder sandstones of El Morro and the adjacent mesa on -the southwest and the sandstones and limestones of the higher slopes -resisted such erosion. - -During the last few million years, while the Zuñi Mountains were being -gradually pushed up to their present height, more than 10,000 feet of -sedimentary rocks have been removed from what you see. This has been -done by running water and wind, carrying away the rocks a few particles -at a time. Before that, about 100 million years ago, this entire area, -as far as you can see in any direction, was under the water of an -ancient ocean. Forty million years before that, the sands of El Morro -were accumulating on a broad, desert-like plain, built up by sand -deposition of sluggish, wandering streams, and re-sorted by wind into -large dunes. - -Before continuing along the trail, you will notice many small trees -around you which are called pinyon (_Pinus edulis_). These pine trees -have two needles to a cluster and are never tall like the ponderosa -pine. They are usually less than 35 feet in height, and have a rounded, -compact crown. Pinyons are seldom found growing in pure stands but are -associated with various kinds of juniper. Because of the nature of their -growth, heavy stands of pinyon and juniper are often called pigmy -forests. The pinyon produces edible nuts which are abundantly used by -local residents as well as marketed commercially elsewhere in the United -States. - - -5. Here you can see at close hand the difference between the dark, -upper layers of ocean sands and the light color of the lower and earlier -stream and dune sands. Look here at the cliff above you and a little to -the right. The lower is Zuñi sandstone, of the Jurassic period, and -forms the bulk of El Morro. The upper is Dakota sandstone of Cretaceous -period, representing beach deposits of the ancient sea which covered all -the area. The contact surface between these two units represents a time -interval of between 25 and 50 million years when erosion instead of new -deposition was taking place. - - -6. Look on the left side of the trail and a little behind you. You -will see a dark green stake that marks one of the four corners of the -unexcavated ruin. Let your eye follow along the top of the incline to -your right and you will see another green stake, another corner. As you -follow the trail on this side of the box canyon, look to your left for -the last two stakes and you can tell how big this ruin is. Please do not -leave the trail. - -This village was possibly two or three stories high, but after the -Indians left, the roofs collapsed and the walls fell in. Then the sand -blew in, weeds began to grow, and you see the result. - - -7. Looking at the cliff wall across this little box canyon, you can -see a definite horizontal line about half way down. The materials above -and below the line were laid down about the same time, but the line -represents a layer of softer material which has weathered away faster. - -The reason for the unevenness is that stream channels cut into the -underlying sandstone, and then, as the land slowly settled to allow the -sea to encroach, the channels filled up with sand. The sands were -reworked by waves on the beach and the tops smoothed out and leveled. -Small lagoons and swampy areas formed along the coastline. As you climb -the steps at No. 11, you will cross a small seam of coal-like material -which was formed from one of these swamps. - - [Illustration: _The geological disconformity described at Stake 7._] - -If you look across the box canyon, on the horizon you will see the ruins -of another village. It was occupied about the same time as the one on -this side of the mesa. - -Across the top of the mesa, the trail will be marked with two parallel -lines. Please stay between the lines. - - STAY ON THE TRAIL - - -8. The boulders of mixed colors topping the pedestals of Zuñi -sandstone are the Basal Conglomerate of the Dakota formation. This -involved erosion and reworking of the old surface (Zuñi) plus the -deposition of new materials. Thus some of the light colored particles in -the Dakota are Zuñi sandstone. - -The steps cut in the rock were constructed by the National Park Service. -They are not the work of prehistoric Indians. - - -9. The line, to the left of the post, extending through the rock on -both sides of the mesa, is one of the principal causes of the -development of the box canyon. After El Morro was buried by several -thousand feet of younger rocks, some 60 million years ago, it was -subjected to great pressures from the weight of the overlying rocks and -the movements which caused the Zuñi Mountains to project so far above -sea level. These pressures caused the sandstone to crack into the long -openings which we call joints. As running water and wind gradually -removed the overlying rocks, the waters were able to run down into the -joints and, alternately freezing and thawing, broke up the rock into -small fragments which could be washed away. - -If you stand on this line and look down the box canyon to the west, you -can see that each steep canyon wall is simply one side of a joint, while -the material on the other side has been eroded away. If you look -eastward towards the headquarters area, along this joint line, you can -see how El Morro maintains its vertical walls by breaking into blocks -which fall away from the main mass of the sandstone and leave a vertical -joint face. This joint line is different from the others which you may -have noticed in climbing over the rock because it goes so far and cuts -through the rock so deeply. - - -10. The dark colored splotches are lichens. A lichen is composed of -two different organisms, an alga and a fungus, living together and -supporting each other. The fungus furnishes the moisture for the alga, -and the alga the food for the fungus. This coexistence is known as -symbiosis. - -As you walk from No. 10 to 11, you will pass several potholes that -become pools of water after a rain. Some of these were artificially -enlarged by the Indians who lived on the mesa top, to serve as -supplementary sources of water. - - -11. The dark color here is caused by carbonized remains from the -plants which grew in the ancient swamps. Coal is formed in much the same -way, but there is too much inorganic material in this seam to produce -coal. This is the coal-like seam mentioned at No. 7. On the very top, -the dirt is from the Mancos formation of Cretaceous age, and is composed -of marine shales deposited in the ancient sea which covered the area. It -was originally much thicker, and is younger than any of the other rocks -exposed here. - -Immediately ahead and extending to the right for nearly 300 feet is the -ruin called _Atsinna_, a Zuñi word referring to the “writing on rock.” - - -12. Atsinna, the larger of the two ruins, is approximately 200 by 300 -feet, the size of some city blocks. Like the other village, parts of it -probably were three stories high, mainly along the north side. It was -terraced down toward the south, thus providing a southern exposure. You -are standing on the second floor level about ten feet above the original -ground level. The first floor was filled with debris from the collapse -of the upper stories. - -The Indians obtained most of their water from the pool at the base of -the rock, as did the later Spanish and American travelers, but they also -caught as much water as they could on the mesa top. - - -13. This round room, is called a _kiva_. Kivas were built primarily -for religious ceremonial reasons, but had other purposes, just as the -large halls in cities today are used for exhibits, concerts, lectures, -and other activities. In addition to religion, these rooms were used for -workrooms, playrooms, general meeting places, fraternal society -meetings, etc. - - [Illustration: _A portion of Atsinna. Part of the square kiva is - shown at lower left_] - -Now contrast this round kiva with the square kiva across the trail -toward the northeast. Both kivas served the same functions, but they -represent two different architectural styles or traditions in use at -approximately the same time. - - [Illustration: _The box canyon as seen from its eastern end looking - west_] - - [Illustration: _Looking out over Inscription Rock from the south_] - -Atsinna was occupied during the 13th and 14th centuries. The reason for -the abandonment of this site is not definitely known. Perhaps the -Indians found that the growing seasons were too short at this elevation -and they had too many crop failures. Apparently these people moved to -the west, where they founded the several Zuñi villages known in historic -times. There, around the present pueblo of Zuñi, the growing season is -slightly longer and irrigation can be practiced, and possibly the soil -is more fertile. - -The prominent peak on the horizon to the south is called _Cerro Alto_, -which is Spanish for high mountain. This peak is a volcanic cinder cone. - - -14. The stones you see at this station were used for grinding corn -after it had been dried and stored. The corn was placed on the large -stone called _metate_ and ground with the smaller stone called _mano_. - - -15. The trail now descends from the mesa top back to the Monument -headquarters. We hope that you have enjoyed your trip over Inscription -Rock. Should you have any questions, the ranger on duty will be happy to -be of assistance. - - - PUBLISHED IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE BY - SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION - 221 NORTH COURT - TUCSON, ARIZONA 85701 - - [Illustration: SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION • NATIONAL - PARK SERVICE] - -Southwest Parks and Monuments association was founded in 1938 to aid and -promote the educational and scientific activities of the National Park -Service. As a nonprofit organization authorized by Congress, it makes -interpretive material available to park visitors by sale or free -distribution. All net proceeds support the interpretive and research -programs of the National Park Service. - -21st Edition—10M—8/92 - - [Illustration: Back cover] - - - - - Transcriber’s Notes - - -—Silently corrected a few typos. - -—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook - is public-domain in the country of publication. - -—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by - _underscores_. - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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} -.fnblock dl { margin-top:0; margin-left:4em; text-indent:-2em; } -.fnblock dt { text-align:justify; } -dl.catalog dd { font-style:italic; } -dl.catalog dt { margin-top:1em; } -.author { text-align:right; margin-top:0em; margin-bottom:0em; display:block; } - -dl.biblio dt { margin-top:.6em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:justify; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt div { display:block; float:left; margin-left:-6em; width:6em; clear:both; } -dl.biblio dt.center { margin-left:0em; text-align:center; text-indent:0; } -dl.biblio dd { margin-top:.3em; margin-left:3em; text-align:justify; font-size:90%; } -p.biblio { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -.clear { clear:both; } -p.book { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; } -p.review { margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; font-size:80%; } -p.pcap { margin-left:0em; text-indent:0; text-align:center; margin-top:0; font-size:110%; } -p.pcapc { margin-left:4.7em; text-indent:0em; text-align:justify; } -dl.pcap { font-size:90%; font-family:sans-serif; margin-left:3em; } -span.attr { font-size:80%; font-family:sans-serif; } -span.pn { display:inline-block; width:4.7em; text-align:left; margin-left:0; text-indent:0; } -</style> -</head> -<body> - -<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of El Morro Trails, by Anonymous</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: El Morro Trails</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0;'>El Morro National Monument, New Mexico</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Anonymous</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 21, 2021 [eBook #65891]</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net</div> - -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS ***</div> -<div id="cover" class="img"> -<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="El Morro Trails, El Morro National Monument, New Mexico" width="1000" height="1539" /> -</div> -<div class="box"> -<h1><i class="cur">El Morro Trails</i> -<br /><span class="ss smallest"><span class="smallest">EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT, NEW MEXICO</span></span></h1> -<p class="jr1"><span class="ss"><span class="smaller">PRICE: 50 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME</span></span></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_i">i</div> -<div class="img" id="fig1"> -<img src="images/p01.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="879" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Inscription Rock, El Morro National Monument</i></p> -</div> -<h2 id="c1"><span class="small">Introduction</span></h2> -<p>In the year 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado came up from -Mexico with some 350 Spanish soldiers and crossed southeastern -Arizona to Zuñi, a pueblo 30 miles west of El Morro. Breaking up into -several groups, they went eastward 70 miles to Acoma Pueblo and -thence to the Rio Grande. At least one of the groups probably passed -El Morro enroute.</p> -<p>The first known historical mention of El Morro is found in the journal -of Diego Pérez de Luxán, chronicler of the Espejo expedition of -1583. Luxán stopped here for water on March 11 of that year.</p> -<p>For some 300 years, hundreds of Spanish soldiers and priests, -enroute between Santa Fe and Zuñi, and the Hopi villages farther -north, passed El Morro. Many left names and notations about -themselves carved into the soft sandstone.</p> -<p>After 1849, American soldiers, emigrants, freighters, and adventurers -camped here because of the never-failing waterhole. In 1906, El -Morro was set aside as a National Monument and additional name -carving was prohibited.</p> -<p>The name “El Morro” simply means “the headland” or “the bluff,” -and refers to the appearance of this mesa-point from a distance.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">KEEP AMERICA BEAUTIFUL</span></p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_1">1</div> -<h1 title=""><i class="cur">El Morro Trails</i></h1> -<h2 id="c2"><span class="small">INSCRIPTION ROCK TRAIL</span></h2> -<p>The trail begins directly behind the Monument headquarters, and -climbs gradually toward the rock. Just follow the arrows and <i>do not -hurry</i>. It is 7,200 feet above sea level here, and the altitude may -bother some of you. The hike past the inscriptions and back to the office -normally takes from 30 to 40 minutes.</p> -<p>After viewing the inscriptions, you may, if you wish, continue up -over the top of the rock and visit two large prehistoric Indian ruins. -This extra hike will take you another 1 to 1½ hours.</p> -<p>Starting near the base of the mesa the trail has been marked with -numbered stations which match the numbered paragraphs in this -booklet. Read and enjoy yourself as you walk.</p> -<p>No one has ever been bitten here, but watch along the path for -rattlesnakes.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">Please leave the Monument as neat as you found it.</span></p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c3">1.</h3> -<p>If you look closely at the rock, about 12 feet above the ground, -you will see some notches cut into the sandstone. These are footholds. -Probably most Indians came to the pool by the long, safe way, but -others, caring more for their thirst than their lives, came down from -the mesa top through the high notch to the right and above you.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">Do not, under any circumstances, try coming down this short way—the rock is extremely slippery. If you go to the top, stay on the marked trail.</span></p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c4">2.</h3> -<p>Now you see why travelers stopped here. There is no spring; the -pool is fed largely by rain falling in July, August, and September, and -by melting snows. When full it is about 12 feet deep and holds about -200,000 gallons of water.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">DO NOT THROW ANYTHING INTO THE POOL!</span></p> -<p>If you look closely around the walls at about eye level, even on the -far side, you can see names carved into the rock. Most of these date -from 1850 to 1900, and were the work of emigrants and soldiers.</p> -<p>How did they get over there? In the early days, there was probably -a sandbank around the edge, and people could ride or walk around -the pool. In 1942, a heavy rock fall filled the waterhole. When the -sand and rubble were removed, the old dam was reinforced and lined -with concrete.</p> -<blockquote> -<p><span class="ss">Do not write or carve on the cliff, and please don’t -touch. Touching the inscriptions causes them to wear -away more rapidly.</span></p> -</blockquote> -<p>The mud formations on the face of the rock above the pool are the -nests of cliff swallows. These birds come to El Morro each year to nest -and raise their young.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_2">2</div> -<div class="img" id="fig2"> -<img src="images/p02.jpg" alt="" width="485" height="999" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>The waterhole</i></p> -</div> -<h3 class="inline" id="c5">3.</h3> -<p>Along the base of the mesa -are examples of the predominant -types of trees found in the Southwest. -From left to right these are:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>(1) One-seed juniper (<i>Juniperus -monosperma</i>), which can be used -for fenceposts and fuel.</p> -<p>(2) Pinyon pine (<i>Pinus edulis</i>), -noted for its edible nuts which are -harvested in the fall.</p> -<p>(3) Ponderosa pine (<i>Pinus ponderosa</i>), -which provides excellent -wood for construction and building -purposes.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Watch for black sage (<i>Artemisia -tridentata</i>) along the right side of -the trail. This is the purple sage of -western fiction and is recognized -by the silvery down on the leaves -and the purplish color of the -shaggy bark. The strong aromatic -odor of sagebrush is especially -noticeable after a rain.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c6">4.</h3> -<p>In the desert varnish, the -darker colored rock, note particularly -a sequence showing hand -prints, foot prints and a zig-zag -trail going to a hole in the cliff. -This could mean, “Follow the hand -and foot trail to the pool of water.”</p> -<p>The signature of Mr. Long is the -most impressive one on the rock. It -appears to have been carved between -1850 and 1862, probably -with a knife after being sketched. -Just to your right around the corner, -note “Mr. Engle” in block -print and “Mr. Bryn” in script. -Engle was Beale’s second-in-command -and Long and Bryn -were members of Beale’s company.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c7">5.</h3> -<p>There is a good account of Mr. P. (Peachy) Gilmer Breckinridge -from the Virginia Historical Society. He graduated from Virginia Military -Institute, and as a young man rode across the continent to California.</p> -<p>In 1857 Lt. Edward Beale was in charge of an expedition testing -camels for use in the American deserts. Breckinridge was in charge of the -25 camels used by Beale when they passed El Morro.</p> -<p>Remaining there only a short time, he rode back to Virginia just in -time to get into the Civil War. He was killed in a skirmish at Kennon’s -Landing, Virginia, in 1863.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_3">3</div> -<div class="img" id="fig3"> -<img src="images/p02a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="404" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>E. Pen Long inscription</i></p> -</div> -<h3 class="inline" id="c8">6.</h3> -<p>Here you observe a number of very faint Spanish inscriptions -which have never been completely studied. Note the word “año” -(year) 1646. To the right is a lamp-blackened inscription reading -“paso por aqui Miguel Alfaro.” (Passed by here, Miguel Alfaro). A -date is not given, nor is the man yet known to us. Scholars, dating the -inscriptions by letter style, say it was done about 1700.</p> -<p>The round black discs along the bottom of the rock are section -markers. Each one is lettered and they divide the face of the cliff into -sections so the inscriptions can be easily located and recorded.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c9">7.</h3> -<p>In Spanish, this inscription says: “A veinticinco del mes de -junio, año de 1709 paso por aqui para Zuñi—Ramon Garcia Jurado.” -Translated, it reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“On the 25th of the month of June, of this year of -1709, passed by here on the way to Zuñi—Ramon -Garcia Jurado.”</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="img" id="fig4"> -<img src="images/p02c.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="520" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Ramon Garcia Jurado inscription, 1709</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_4">4</div> -<p>You can find Señor Jurado’s name in old Spanish documents. In -1728 he was the “alcalde mayor” of the Keres district, not far south of -Santa Fe.</p> -<p>To your right is a blackened inscription which reads, translated, -“By here passed Pedro Romero on the 22nd of August, year of 1751.” -Little is known about this Spanish gentleman.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c10">8.</h3> -<p>“By here passed Andres Romero, of the year 1774.” This -Spaniard is unknown. The date is important because it is apparently -the last Spanish inscription before the coming of the Americans in -1849.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c11">9.</h3> -<p>Notice the petroglyphs here, in particular the four mountain -sheep and what appears to be a bear paw. These are, of course, far -older than the Spanish inscriptions above them.</p> -<p>The Spanish inscription reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Pasamos por aquí el Sargento Mayor y el Capitan -Jude de Archuleta y el Ayudante Diego Martin Barba -y el Alferez Agustin de Ynojos año de 1636.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Translated, it reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“We passed by here, the Sergeant Major and Captain -Juan de Archuleta and Adjutant Diego Martin Barba -and Ensign Agustin de Ynojos, the year of 1636.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The “Sergeant Major” was not an enlisted man, as now—he was -the officer in direct command of the troops. The ensign was the standard -bearer, corresponding in grade to a second lieutenant.</p> -<p>Barba and Archuleta were accused of aiding a rebellion during one -of the numerous civil disturbances that plagued the Spanish in New -Mexico. In 1643 they were beheaded.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c12">10.</h3> -<p>Here is the oldest and most famous inscription at El Morro. It -was done by the first governor of New Mexico, Don Juan de Oñate, in -1605, 15 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.</p> -<p>In 1604, Oñate rode south with 30 men to the Gulf of California. -On his return the next year, he made his inscription, which reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Paso por aquí el adelantado Don Juan de Oñate del -descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de -1605.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The translation reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Passed by here the Governor Don Juan de Oñate, -from the discovery of the Sea of the South on the 16th -of April, 1605.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>By “Sea of the South,” Oñate meant Gulf of California, an arm of -the Pacific Ocean. He was not the first Spaniard to see it, of course.</p> -<p>This was not Oñate’s first visit to El Morro—on December 13, -1598, he passed here from Zuñi with a group of Spanish soldiers, -enroute to the Rio Grande via Acoma.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_5">5</div> -<div class="img" id="fig5"> -<img src="images/p03.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="277" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Juan de Oñate inscription. 1605</i></p> -</div> -<p>Below the Oñate inscription, partly hidden by the yucca plant, is an -inscription that reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“By here passed the Ensign Don Joseph de Payba -Basconzelos, the year he brought the cabildo of the -realm at his own expense the 18th of February, of the -year 1726.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>What Basconzelos actually meant is not clear to us.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c13">11.</h3> -<p>Continuing along the cliff, among the many inscriptions and -petroglyphs you will be able to locate a church, stars, crucifixes, a little -cavalry guidon (flag) and the prominent inscription of R. H. Orton, -who was the Adjutant-General of California after the Civil War. -You may also be able to locate the names of Simpson and Kern (but -more about them at <a href="#s21a">post #21</a>.) The Indian Petroglyphs are higher on -the rock because, through the centuries, erosion lowered the ground -level.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c14"><span id="s12a">12.</span></h3> -<p>Begin here with the highest set of inscriptions. The ground level -was higher then, as shown by this tree, which surely did not begin -growing on top of a mound! Done by one of New Mexico’s most -famous frontier governors, this inscription reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Aqui estuvo de General Don Diego de Vargas, quien -conquisto a nuestra Santa Fe y a la Real Corona todo -el Nuevo Mexico a su costa, Año de 1692.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>or:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who -conquered for our Holy Faith, and for the Royal -Crown, all of New Mexico at his own expense, year of -1692.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Twelve years earlier, in 1680, the Pueblo (Indian) revolt had taken -place. Many Spanish were killed and the remainder fled to El Paso. In -1692, de Vargas returned to re-establish Spanish control of the -pueblos. He was later imprisoned for 3 years in the governor’s palace -and when released, restored as governor. He died in Bernalillo in -1704.</p> -<p>Below the de Vargas inscription are three names, “Williamson,” -“Holland,” and “John Udell,” all with the same date of 1858. These -men were members of the first emigrant train to try this new route to -California.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_6">6</div> -<p>A good account of the trip can be found in the <i>Journal of John -Udell</i>, a Baptist preacher who, with his 64-year-old wife, decided to -visit his children in Sacramento. The party, consisting of 40 families -and their equipment, finally reached the Colorado River, only to be -attacked by the Mojave Indians. Several of the group were killed and -practically all of their equipment stolen or burned.</p> -<p>The survivors, including the elderly Udell and wife, returned to -Albuquerque, walking most of the way. They passed El Morro -enroute, arriving in Albuquerque, nearly starved, in November 1858. -Remaining there for the winter, Udell and some of the others again -started for California in 1859 in the company of Lt. Edward F. Beale, -famous for his camel caravan of 1858, which also came west by way of -El Morro.</p> -<p>They had no difficulty reaching California, and finding their -children in Sacramento. Mr. Udell is known to have died in the -Golden State, a very old man.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c15">13.</h3> -<p>The first emigrant train (mentioned in <a href="#s12a">station 12</a>) was led by -Mr. L. J. Rose. He was born in Germany and moved to New Orleans -in 1830. He later moved to Iowa where he became wealthy in the dry -goods business.</p> -<p>Rose was wounded by Mojave Indians in the attack mentioned by -Udell. After recovering from his wounds he went to Los Angeles and -became one of its leading citizens.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c16">14.</h3> -<p>Some of the high carvings have the letters “U. P. R.” written -after them. In 1868, the Union Pacific Railroad ran a survey through -here, but the project was never carried out. The development of the -Santa Fe Railroad 25 miles to the north effectively ended the use of El -Morro as a stopping place.</p> -<p>There is good reason to believe that practically all of the names you -see here on the point date <i>after</i> 1850.</p> -<p>Looking west along the rock, you will note that the inscriptions end -about where the small juniper is growing. Probably the rough surface -beyond the little tree discouraged carving.</p> -<p>But don’t stop here! Some of the best of the early Spanish inscriptions -await you up the path.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c17">15.</h3> -<p>Slightly to your left, several miles away, is a multi-colored -mesa. It is composed of the same material as El Morro, was formed -about the same time, and is approximately the same height. The -brighter colors are caused by thin films of iron oxide around the sand -grains, which are not conspicuously present in El Morro. Lack of -water kept the early travelers from stopping there.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c18">16.</h3> -<p>As the saying goes, the writer of this inscription “counted his -chickens before they hatched.” He tells us:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Year of 1716 on the 26th of August passed by here -Don Feliz Martinez, Governor and Captain General -of this realm to the reduction and conquest of the Moqui -<span class="pb" id="Page_7">7</span> -(Hopi) and (in his company?) the reverend Father -Friar Antonio Camargo, Custodian and ecclesiastical -judge.”</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="img" id="fig6"> -<img src="images/p04.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="220" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Don Feliz Martinez inscription, 1716</i></p> -</div> -<p>Governor Martinez found the Hopis unwilling to accept Spanish -domination, and after about 2 months of quarreling, (mostly with -words and fist-shaking) the expedition returned, quite unsuccessful, to -Santa Fe.</p> -<p>Now continue on up to the next landing.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c19">17.</h3> -<p>Because they were written on the same day and seemingly in the -same handwriting, we presume that this inscription and the one to -the west were written by the same man. The first one says:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the -Bachelor Don Juan Ignacio of Arrasain.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The second reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“The 28th day of September of 1737, arrived here the -illustrious Señor Don Martin de Elizacochea, Bishop -of Durango, and the day following, went on to Zuñi.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The good “Bachelor” was a Bachelor of Laws, not necessarily a -single man. The event records one of the first visits to this territory by -a Bishop from Durango, Mexico.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig7"> -<img src="images/p04a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="587" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Don Martin de Elizacochea inscription, 1737</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_8">8</div> -<div class="img" id="fig8"> -<img src="images/p05.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="681" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Niéto Poem, 1629</i></p> -</div> -<h3 class="inline" id="c20">18.</h3> -<p>Inscriptions on the north side are difficult to photograph, -because the sun shines around here only a couple of hours per day during -the summer. Here is the only poem on the rock:</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Aqui (llego el Señor) y Gobernor</p> -<p class="t0">Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto</p> -<p class="t0">Que lo imposible tiene ya subjeto</p> -<p class="t0">Su brazo indubitable y su valor</p> -<p class="t0">Con los carros del Rey Nuestro Señor</p> -<p class="t0">Cosa Que solo el puso en este efecto</p> -<p class="t0">De Agostos 5 (Mil) Seiscientos Veinte Nueve</p> -<p class="t0">Que se Bien a Zuñi pasa y la Fe lleve.”</p> -</div> -<p>The poem, of course does not rhyme when translated into English.</p> -<div class="verse"> -<p class="t0">“Here arrived the Señor and Governor</p> -<p class="t0">Don Francisco Manuel de Silva Nieto</p> -<p class="t0">Whose indubitable arm and valor</p> -<p class="t0">Have overcome the impossible</p> -<p class="t0">With the wagons of the King our Lord</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_9">9</div> -<p class="t0">A thing which he alone put into this effect</p> -<p class="t0">August 5, 1629 that one may well to Zuñi</p> -<p class="t0">pass and carry the faith.”</p> -</div> -<h3 class="inline" id="c21">19.</h3> -<p>If you are an enlisted man, you’ll appreciate this one. The first -two lines of the inscription read:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“The 14th day of July 1736 passed by here the General -Juan Paez Hurtado, Inspector.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The second two lines, no doubt added when the good general’s back -was turned, read:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“And in his company, the Corporal Joseph Trujillo!”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We wonder what ever happened to Corporal Trujillo!</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c22"><span id="s20a">20.</span></h3> -<p>You are now looking at the longest and one of the most interesting -inscriptions on the rock, supposedly done by Governor -Eulate:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“I am the captain General of the Providence of New -Mexico for the King our Lord, passed by here on the -return from the pueblos of Zuñi on the 29th of July -the year 1620, and put them at peace at their humble -petition, they asking favor as vassals of his Majesty -and promising anew their obedience, all of which he -did, with clemency, zeal, and prudence, as a most -Christian-like (gentleman) extraordinary and gallant -soldier of enduring and praised memory.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The word crossed out appears to have been “gentleman.” Somebody -who knew the old boy apparently took exception to all this highflown -praise. (That the erasure was done before 1849 can be proved, see -Simpson, next).</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c23"><span id="s21a">21.</span></h3> -<p>Lt. J. H. Simpson, an engineer for the army, and Mr. R. H. -Kern, a Philadelphia artist who rode around with the army drawing -pictures, were the first English-speaking people to make a record of -Inscription Rock.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig9"> -<img src="images/p05a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="292" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Eulate inscription, 1620</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_10">10</div> -<div class="img" id="fig10"> -<img src="images/p06.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="391" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Simpson and Kern inscription, 1849</i></p> -</div> -<p>They spent 2 days copying the inscriptions, and stated that when -they were here, not a single English inscription could be found on the -rock.</p> -<p>Recall the word “gentleman” crossed out back at <a href="#s20a">Stake No. 20</a>? Mr. -Kern’s drawing faithfully shows the word X’d out just as you saw it.</p> -<p>The Spanish inscription below was done by one of three Spanish -soldiers left to “guard” 2,000 Zuñi Indians in 1699. It reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“I am of the hand (that is, written by) of Felipe de -Arellano on the 16th of September, soldier.”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In 1700, the Zuñis apparently thought the odds in their favor were -good, so they killed the three Spaniards.</p> -<p>To the right of Arellano’s inscription is a marvel of Spanish “shorthand.” -A good scholar translated it for us. Here it is in both Spanish -and English:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“Se pasaron a 23 de marzo de 1632 años a la venganza -de muerte del Padre Letrado.—Lujan”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The translation reads:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“They passed on the 23rd of March, 1632, to the -avenging of the death of the Father Letrado.—Lujan”</p> -</blockquote> -<p>About the year 1629, Father Letrado built the earliest mission -chapel at what we call today Salinas National Monument (near Mountainair, -New Mexico, southwest of Albuquerque).</p> -<p>He was transferred to Zuñi in February of 1632 and was killed just a -week later. On hearing the news in Santa Fe, Lujan and a party of -soldiers reached Zuñi in remarkably fast time.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_11">11</div> -<div class="img" id="fig11"> -<img src="images/p06a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="362" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Lujan inscription, 1632</i></p> -</div> -<p>This is the end of the inscription part of our trail. You may retrace -your steps back to headquarters, or, if you wish, you may continue -your hike on up over the mesa top, past the ruins, and down to headquarters -by the return trail on the other side.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">Please stay on the trail</span></p> -<h2 id="c24"><span class="small">TRAIL TO THE TOP OF THE ROCK AND RUINS</span></h2> -<p>The first stake is some distance along the trail, so keep walking and -watch for it.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c25">1.</h3> -<p>The cave-like depressions in the side of the rock are created by -water. Rain falling on the top of the mesa enters cracks in the rock, -runs down the cracks (called joints), and comes out of small openings -on the side of the mesa. The water seeping out of the opening gradually -wears away the rock. The freezing of the water in winter and thawing -in summer helps to weaken the sandstone.</p> -<p>The tall trees in the vicinity of this stake are ponderosa pine (<i>Pinus -ponderosa</i>). They are readily identified by the needles, which grow -two or three to a cluster. These trees grow in well-watered, protected -areas within the Monument. The larger ones are somewhere between -200 and 300 years old.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c26">2.</h3> -<p>Here you can stop and catch your breath before beginning the -steep climb. Look at the top of the mesa, to your right, just below the -railing. You can see very clearly two different formations of rock. The -lower is the sandstone called Zuñi formation and the higher is the -Dakota formation. The line between these two formations represents a -time interval of between 25 and 30 million years. More about this -later.</p> -<p>Behind the numbered stake near the base of the rock, you will see a -Gambel oak (<i>Quercus gambelii</i>). It is commonly associated with -<span class="pb" id="Page_12">12</span> -ponderosa pine and is the most abundant oak of the low mountains -and plateaus of the Southwest. It is characterized by its deeply-lobed -leaves, and its habit of growth. It ranges from a shrub to a tree in size, -and is often seen in dense stands, which give it the name of “scrub” -oak in certain localities. Deer and livestock browse this tree, and small -animals use its acorns for food.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c27">3.</h3> -<p>The policy of the National Park Service is to keep the parks -looking as natural as possible. Since it is natural for dead trees to be in -a forest the ones you see in this area will not be cleaned up. When a -tree falls in a National Park Service area it will lie where it fell and -eventually will decay and supply nourishment for future trees.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c28">4.</h3> -<p>Take a break here and look at the valley between the multicolored -mesa and the higher parts of the Zuñi Mountains. This valley -was formed by water gradually wearing away the softer rocks of the -Chinle formation. The harder sandstones of El Morro and the adjacent -mesa on the southwest and the sandstones and limestones of the -higher slopes resisted such erosion.</p> -<p>During the last few million years, while the Zuñi Mountains were -being gradually pushed up to their present height, more than 10,000 -feet of sedimentary rocks have been removed from what you see. This -has been done by running water and wind, carrying away the rocks a -few particles at a time. Before that, about 100 million years ago, this -entire area, as far as you can see in any direction, was under the water -of an ancient ocean. Forty million years before that, the sands of El -Morro were accumulating on a broad, desert-like plain, built up by -sand deposition of sluggish, wandering streams, and re-sorted by wind -into large dunes.</p> -<p>Before continuing along the trail, you will notice many small trees -around you which are called pinyon (<i>Pinus edulis</i>). These pine trees -have two needles to a cluster and are never tall like the ponderosa -pine. They are usually less than 35 feet in height, and have a rounded, -compact crown. Pinyons are seldom found growing in pure stands but -are associated with various kinds of juniper. Because of the nature of -their growth, heavy stands of pinyon and juniper are often called -pigmy forests. The pinyon produces edible nuts which are abundantly -used by local residents as well as marketed commercially elsewhere in -the United States.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c29">5.</h3> -<p>Here you can see at close hand the difference between the dark, -upper layers of ocean sands and the light color of the lower and earlier -stream and dune sands. Look here at the cliff above you and a little to -the right. The lower is Zuñi sandstone, of the Jurassic period, and -forms the bulk of El Morro. The upper is Dakota sandstone of -Cretaceous period, representing beach deposits of the ancient sea -which covered all the area. The contact surface between these two -units represents a time interval of between 25 and 50 million years -when erosion instead of new deposition was taking place.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c30">6.</h3> -<p>Look on the left side of the trail and a little behind you. You -will see a dark green stake that marks one of the four corners of the -<span class="pb" id="Page_13">13</span> -unexcavated ruin. Let your eye follow along the top of the incline to -your right and you will see another green stake, another corner. As -you follow the trail on this side of the box canyon, look to your left for -the last two stakes and you can tell how big this ruin is. Please do not -leave the trail.</p> -<p>This village was possibly two or three stories high, but after the Indians -left, the roofs collapsed and the walls fell in. Then the sand blew -in, weeds began to grow, and you see the result.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c31"><span id="s7b">7.</span></h3> -<p>Looking at the cliff wall across this little box canyon, you can -see a definite horizontal line about half way down. The materials -above and below the line were laid down about the same time, but the -line represents a layer of softer material which has weathered away -faster.</p> -<p>The reason for the unevenness is that stream channels cut into the -underlying sandstone, and then, as the land slowly settled to allow the -sea to encroach, the channels filled up with sand. The sands were -reworked by waves on the beach and the tops smoothed out and leveled. -Small lagoons and swampy areas formed along the coastline. As -you climb the steps at <a href="#s11b">No. 11</a>, you will cross a small seam of coal-like -material which was formed from one of these swamps.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig12"> -<img src="images/p07.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="796" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>The geological disconformity described at <a href="#s7b">Stake 7</a>.</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_14">14</div> -<p>If you look across the box canyon, on the horizon you will see the -ruins of another village. It was occupied about the same time as the -one on this side of the mesa.</p> -<p>Across the top of the mesa, the trail will be marked with two -parallel lines. Please stay between the lines.</p> -<p class="center"><span class="ss">STAY ON THE TRAIL</span></p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c32">8.</h3> -<p>The boulders of mixed colors topping the pedestals of Zuñi sandstone -are the Basal Conglomerate of the Dakota formation. This involved -erosion and reworking of the old surface (Zuñi) plus the deposition -of new materials. Thus some of the light colored particles in the -Dakota are Zuñi sandstone.</p> -<p>The steps cut in the rock were constructed by the National Park Service. -They are not the work of prehistoric Indians.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c33">9.</h3> -<p>The line, to the left of the post, extending through the rock on -both sides of the mesa, is one of the principal causes of the development -of the box canyon. After El Morro was buried by several thousand -feet of younger rocks, some 60 million years ago, it was subjected -to great pressures from the weight of the overlying rocks and the -movements which caused the Zuñi Mountains to project so far above -sea level. These pressures caused the sandstone to crack into the long -openings which we call joints. As running water and wind gradually -removed the overlying rocks, the waters were able to run down into -the joints and, alternately freezing and thawing, broke up the rock into -small fragments which could be washed away.</p> -<p>If you stand on this line and look down the box canyon to the west, -you can see that each steep canyon wall is simply one side of a joint, -while the material on the other side has been eroded away. If you look -eastward towards the headquarters area, along this joint line, you can -see how El Morro maintains its vertical walls by breaking into blocks -which fall away from the main mass of the sandstone and leave a vertical -joint face. This joint line is different from the others which you -may have noticed in climbing over the rock because it goes so far and -cuts through the rock so deeply.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c34">10.</h3> -<p>The dark colored splotches are lichens. A lichen is composed of -two different organisms, an alga and a fungus, living together and -supporting each other. The fungus furnishes the moisture for the alga, -and the alga the food for the fungus. This coexistence is known as symbiosis.</p> -<p>As you walk from No. 10 to 11, you will pass several potholes that -become pools of water after a rain. Some of these were artificially -enlarged by the Indians who lived on the mesa top, to serve as supplementary -sources of water.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c35"><span id="s11b">11.</span></h3> -<p>The dark color here is caused by carbonized remains from the -plants which grew in the ancient swamps. Coal is formed in much the -same way, but there is too much inorganic material in this seam to -produce coal. This is the coal-like seam mentioned at <a href="#s7b">No. 7</a>. On the -<span class="pb" id="Page_15">15</span> -very top, the dirt is from the Mancos formation of Cretaceous age, and -is composed of marine shales deposited in the ancient sea which -covered the area. It was originally much thicker, and is younger than -any of the other rocks exposed here.</p> -<p>Immediately ahead and extending to the right for nearly 300 feet is -the ruin called <i>Atsinna</i>, a Zuñi word referring to the “writing on -rock.”</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c36">12.</h3> -<p>Atsinna, the larger of the two ruins, is approximately 200 by -300 feet, the size of some city blocks. Like the other village, parts of it -probably were three stories high, mainly along the north side. It was -terraced down toward the south, thus providing a southern exposure. -You are standing on the second floor level about ten feet above the -original ground level. The first floor was filled with debris from the -collapse of the upper stories.</p> -<p>The Indians obtained most of their water from the pool at the base -of the rock, as did the later Spanish and American travelers, but they -also caught as much water as they could on the mesa top.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c37">13.</h3> -<p>This round room, is called a <i>kiva</i>. Kivas were built primarily -for religious ceremonial reasons, but had other purposes, just as the -large halls in cities today are used for exhibits, concerts, lectures, and -other activities. In addition to religion, these rooms were used for -workrooms, playrooms, general meeting places, fraternal society -meetings, etc.</p> -<div class="img" id="fig13"> -<img src="images/p08.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="815" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>A portion of Atsinna. Part of the square kiva is shown at lower left</i></p> -</div> -<p>Now contrast this round kiva with the square kiva across the trail -toward the northeast. Both kivas served the same functions, but they -represent two different architectural styles or traditions in use at approximately -the same time.</p> -<div class="pb" id="Page_16">16</div> -<div class="img" id="fig14"> -<img src="images/p09.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="822" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>The box canyon as seen from its eastern end looking west</i></p> -</div> -<div class="img" id="fig15"> -<img src="images/p09a.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="824" /> -<p class="pcap"><i>Looking out over Inscription Rock from the south</i></p> -</div> -<div class="pb" id="Page_17">17</div> -<p>Atsinna was occupied during the 13th and 14th centuries. The -reason for the abandonment of this site is not definitely known. -Perhaps the Indians found that the growing seasons were too short at -this elevation and they had too many crop failures. Apparently these -people moved to the west, where they founded the several Zuñi -villages known in historic times. There, around the present pueblo of -Zuñi, the growing season is slightly longer and irrigation can be practiced, -and possibly the soil is more fertile.</p> -<p>The prominent peak on the horizon to the south is called <i>Cerro -Alto</i>, which is Spanish for high mountain. This peak is a volcanic -cinder cone.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c38">14.</h3> -<p>The stones you see at this station were used for grinding corn -after it had been dried and stored. The corn was placed on the large -stone called <i>metate</i> and ground with the smaller stone called <i>mano</i>.</p> -<h3 class="inline" id="c39">15.</h3> -<p>The trail now descends from the mesa top back to the Monument -headquarters. We hope that you have enjoyed your trip over Inscription -Rock. Should you have any questions, the ranger on duty -will be happy to be of assistance.</p> -<hr class="dwide" /> -<p class="tbcenter"><span class="ssn smaller"> -<br />PUBLISHED IN COOPERATION WITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE BY -<br /><b>SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION</b> -<br />221 NORTH COURT -<br />TUCSON, ARIZONA 85701</span></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p09d.jpg" id="ncfig1" alt="SOUTHWEST PARKS AND MONUMENTS ASSOCIATION • NATIONAL PARK SERVICE" width="600" height="234" /> -</div> -<p class="small ssn">Southwest Parks and Monuments association was founded in 1938 to aid -and promote the educational -and scientific activities of the National Park Service. As a nonprofit -organization authorized by Congress, -it makes interpretive material available to park visitors by sale or -free distribution. All net proceeds -support the interpretive and research programs of the National Park Service.</p> -<p><span class="ss smaller">21st Edition—10M—8/92</span></p> -<div class="img"> -<img src="images/p10.jpg" id="ncfig2" alt="Back cover" width="1000" height="1515" /> -</div> -<h2 id="trnotes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> -<ul> -<li>Silently corrected a few typos.</li> -<li>Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.</li> -<li>In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.</li> -</ul> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EL MORRO TRAILS ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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