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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/6653-0.txt b/6653-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f9b0126 --- /dev/null +++ b/6653-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10285 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1, by +Samuel de Champlain + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6653] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 10, 2003 +[Last updated: January 31, 2016] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team, from images +generously made available by the Canadian Institute for +Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o.' It is here represented with an '8.' + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'après un portrait gravé par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonnière, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur Général +de la Bibliothèque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inférieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbé H. +R. Casgrain, of Rivière Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Condé encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Condé, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Médicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Condé, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Château de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Château de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus à leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel dépend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaillé qui en étoit Gouverneur, fut chargé de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingénieurs Italiens, présiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, à la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Condé, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mère + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit à faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Condé resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Condé. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Médicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomény, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Françoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to César, Duc de Vendôme, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors. He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, après m'avoir si bien servi à mes + noces." At the siege of the Château de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien mérité du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amérement la perte de leur Général. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son père, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extrêmement touchez de sa mort. Malgré la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il étoit si estimé + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fût agi de trouver un chevalier + François sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantôme_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. François d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Condé. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Généalogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantôme_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, à + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Préfixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provençal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Gravé, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Gravé, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspé took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of François de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Gravé, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Gravé hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Gravé, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspé, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Gravé and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspé, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Gravé, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspé on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grâce, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 40th +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspé, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Gravé, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothée, of Havre de Grâce, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres, and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Rémarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Médicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au même tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armée de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Gravé was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, négocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantième degré, comprenant toute la + côte de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percée, Gachepé, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la rivière de Canada, tant d'un côté que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivières qui entrent au dedans désdites côtes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grâce on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Gravé, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Hève on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grâce, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Gravé, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Gravé +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Gravé. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Gravé proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoüet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Déserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the curé, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspé, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Gravé arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built fires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the hook was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques à celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante à quarante cinq lieues; la première rivière + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette étendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Géographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-déserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _pemé'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdoré, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgeré + de Vitré, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + né-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Française du Télégraph de Paris à New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Gravé had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Gravé were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. the situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Gravé as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Gravé, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Gravé should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Gravé set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Gravé with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Gravé and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortuné_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupçonneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Rivière de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les François estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a esté + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt présenta à feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation à luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requérant + humblement Sa Majesté de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agréable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jésuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortuné_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities. They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupçonneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OF THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _éclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment. The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Hève, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Hève in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estévan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, André Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Gravé, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Gravé, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Gravé, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Gravé himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Gravé +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _débris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point. It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until Pont Gravé and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Gravé, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jésuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment. It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Gravé, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Gravé had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Gravé to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Percé, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Gravé, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the same time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Hélène Boullé, the daughter of Nicholas Boullé, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boullé, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuèrent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocté, comme qui diroit, là où le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocté_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Cartier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brébeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nôstre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort. These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pièces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. César, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Condé, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maillé Brézé, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDÉ.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIÈRE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point à Callière. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and seeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Château de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Gravé, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoüat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoüat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoüat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudière +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudière_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Condé, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Médicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Condé, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Condé and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Médicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Condé, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clémence de Maillé-Brézé. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Condé. During the detention of + the Prince de Condé in prison, the Mareschal de Thémins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Médicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houêl, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Étienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brûlé, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Rivière des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiagué, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiagué, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing weir. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Étienne Brûlé, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing weir and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinté, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brûlé had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiagué, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiagué, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and snow-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Relevés_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Massé. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Médicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Hève in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Massé, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Taché, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiagué_. Dr. Taché places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia, in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe. This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinté Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, _Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort. They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake. If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Gravé, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Étienne Brulé, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brulé related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of feeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Gravé. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Gravé was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Gravé spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Condé having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boullé, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Émeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Gravé and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Émeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boullé, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boullé succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Émeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sébastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houêl, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Étienne Brulé, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brulé's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen. He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition. This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Découvertes et Êtablissements des Français, dans l'ouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huit toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdière's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hébert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163. There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Émeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musqué, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne année ils en auoyent emporté iusques + à 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque année est de 15000, ou 20000, à une + pistole la pièce, ce n'est pas mal allé."--_Vide Rélation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Année_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained.--_Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently assured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why it would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Gravé and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspé. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender his whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety. About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, arrived in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspé with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hébert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspé, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boullé, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail. +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Émeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Châteauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou, [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthélémy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company. Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres.--_Vide Mercure François_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagné de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard._ Champlain writes _Coulart._ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hébert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English.--_Vide Laverdière's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abregé des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger à un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdière's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, année + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Père Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ÉMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Émeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Massé and Jean de Brébeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brébeuf and De Nouë, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Champlain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduîte en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commencé ceste + année à l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_. Québec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos prédications ayent esté bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisiéme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, à Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Père Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pièces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterré prés du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erigé exprés pour honorer la memoire de ce + signalé personnage qui a tant obligé la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbés Laverdière and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbé Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Père Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Père Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Père Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Père + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbé Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbé Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inédits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbé H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Hélène Boullé, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Hélène Boullé, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Hélène de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boullé, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement. He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life. He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdière's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations. But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inédits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne + Charavay, archiviste-paléographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLÉ. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inédits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVÉ. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inférieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inférieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont décrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhé et au Siége de la Rochelle, et la Réduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-déserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Désert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Étienne Brûlé, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdière's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdière's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'après un portrait gravé par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilège" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites és descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, façon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantité de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, à la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Condé en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'année_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'année +1615. iusques à la fin de l'année 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce païs depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Où se voit comme ce pays a esté premierement +descouuert par les François, sous l'authorité de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majesté à present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, à l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitté de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdière to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbé Laverdière, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIÉES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBÉ C. H. LAVERDIÈRE, M. A. SECONDE ÉDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUÉBEC: +IMPRIMÉ AU SÉMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'année mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'année mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdière among the "Pièces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdière it was in the possession of M. Féret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdière suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Récollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdière in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigné. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +où au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manières de lacs, d'où +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques à vn lieu +où nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, où il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer à la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, où le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme à moitié +chemin de celle par où reuint ledict sieur Preuert, où sont comme deux +manières de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes à quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied à terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantité d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint à nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupçonneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'où nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter à nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres à faute, & deux ou trois +balles à chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_déserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _équille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitière_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grâce, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg.. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspé, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspé. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistère, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdière says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepé_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspé_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspé, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdière, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jésuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdière in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitæ. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbé Laverdière, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdière thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Gravé took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Gravé of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Laflèche, as cited + by Laverdière, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une manière de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLÉANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alençon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes à ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantité: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Récit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Rivière. + +152. _Isle d'Orléans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre à Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated. It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIÈRES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Éloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivières. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivières to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivières would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivières being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contrée de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivières. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbé Laverdière suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Gravé had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdière in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jésuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Rivière Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Rivièrs_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Père Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivières, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivières to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdière cites Thévet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Rivière de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Gravé and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspé. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspé, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Verchères.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdière. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _érable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _élan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Récit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8éss8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Verchères. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Verchères to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Thérèse and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Hélène, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Hélène, probably from + Hélène Boullé, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdière, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jésus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Hélène's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Récit_, above cited. + +190. Rivière St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Rivière_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdière, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdière supposes this insignificant stream to be La Rivière de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cèdres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdière_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu éleué, où il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivières. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivières. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinté. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCÉE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspé, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspé. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspé, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Moluës Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percée, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percée, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspé, Moluës Bay, and Isle Percée are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percée there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percée. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percée is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Moluès_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percée.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregaté_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCÉE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percée on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Évêque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Évesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdière, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chassé, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbé Laverdière, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdière, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdière_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdière_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Rivière Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdière, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdière suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdière, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percée, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Gravé to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspé, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grâce. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar. He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Déserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuière Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuière St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Déserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Liéures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port à Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuière Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Bruslé, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orléans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Condé. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Rivière S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jésuit and Récollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Rivière des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Rivière de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Rivière de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Rivière Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Rivière des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Rivière du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Rivière Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Rivière Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Rivière des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Rivière du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Françoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orléans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Rivière des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuière de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuière de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuière Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigré_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Récollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupçonneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuière des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonnière made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percée. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuière des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal. For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudière_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres à Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuière de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudière, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye François, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuière des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it. They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbé + Laverdière thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Rivière du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons. So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudière the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudière a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudière would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdière's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Rivière du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspé. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdière_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jésus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudière Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissèreni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. Gilman, Esq. Montpelier, Vt. +The Hon. John E. Godfrey Bangor, Me. +Abner C. Goodell, Jr., A.M. Salem, Mass. +Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Chief Justice Horace Gray, L.L.D. Boston, Mass. +William W. Greenough, A.B. Boston, Mass. +Isaac J. Greenwood, A.M. New York, N.Y. +Charles H. Guild, Esq. Somerville, Mass. +The Hon. Robert S. Hale, LL.D. Elizabethtown, N.Y. +C. Fiske Harris, A.M. Providence, R.I. +David Greene Haskins, Jr., A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +The Hon. Francis B. Hayes, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Thomas Wentworth Higginson, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +W. Scott Hill, M.D. Augusta, Me. +James F. Hunnewell, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Theodore Irwin, Esq. Oswego, N.Y. +The Hon. Clark Jillson Worcester, Mass. +Mr. Sawyer Junior Nashua, N.H. +George Lamb, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Edward F. de Lancey, Esq. New York, N.Y. +William B. Lapham, M.D. Augusta, Me. +Henry Lee, A.M. Boston, Mass. +John A. Lewis, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq. Buffalo, N.Y. +William T. R. Marvin, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William F. Matchett, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Frederic W. G. May, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. James H. Means, D.D. Boston, Mass. +George H. Moore, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Henry C. Murphy, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +The Rev. James De Normandie, A.M. Portsmouth, N.H. +The Hon. James W. North. Augusta, Me. +Prof. Charles E. Norton, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +John H. Osborne, Esq. Auburn, N.Y. +George T. Paine, Esq. Providence, R.I. +The Hon. John Gorham Palfrey, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Daniel Parish, Jr., Esq. New York, N. Y. +Francis Parkman, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Augustus T. Perkins, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., LL.D. Davenport, Iowa. +William Frederic Poole, A.M. Chicago, Ill. +George Prince, Esq. Bath, Me. +Capt. William Prince, U.S.A. New Orleans, La. +Samuel S. Purple, M.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. John Phelps Futnam, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Edward Ashton Rollins, A.M. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Mark Skinner Chicago, Ill. +The Rev. Carlos Slafter, A.M. Dedham, Mass. +The Rev. Edmund F. Slafter, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles C. Smith, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Samuel T. Snow, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Oliver Bliss Stebbins, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Stevens, Esq. Lowell, Mass. +The Hon. Edwin W. Stoughton. New York, N.Y. +William B. Trask, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. William H. Tuthill. Tipton, Iowa. +Charles W. Tuttle, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Alexander Hamilton Vinton, D.D. Pomfret, Ct. +Joseph B. Walker, A.M. Concord, N.H. +William Henry Wardwell, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Miss Rachel Wetherill Philadelphia, Pa. +Henry Wheatland, A.M., M.D. Salem, Mass. +John Gardner White, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +William Adee Whitehead, A.M. Newark, N.J. +William H. Whitmore, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Henry Austin Whitney, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +Henry Winsor, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Charles Levi Woodbury, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Ashbel Woodward, M.D. Franklin, Ct. +J. Otis Woodward, Esq. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6653] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 10, 2003 +[Last updated: January 31, 2016] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team, from images +generously made available by the Canadian Institute for +Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o.' It is here represented with an '8.' + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'après un portrait gravé par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonnière, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur Général +de la Bibliothèque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inférieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbé H. +R. Casgrain, of Rivière Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Condé encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Condé, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Médicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Condé, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Château de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Château de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus à leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel dépend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaillé qui en étoit Gouverneur, fut chargé de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingénieurs Italiens, présiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, à la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Condé, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mère + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit à faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Condé resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Condé. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Médicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomény, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Françoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to César, Duc de Vendôme, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors. He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, après m'avoir si bien servi à mes + noces." At the siege of the Château de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien mérité du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amérement la perte de leur Général. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son père, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extrêmement touchez de sa mort. Malgré la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il étoit si estimé + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fût agi de trouver un chevalier + François sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantôme_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. François d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Condé. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Généalogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantôme_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, à + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Préfixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provençal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Gravé, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Gravé, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspé took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of François de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Gravé, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Gravé hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Gravé, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspé, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Gravé and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspé, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Gravé, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspé on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grâce, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 40th +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspé, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Gravé, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothée, of Havre de Grâce, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres, and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Rémarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Médicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au même tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armée de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Gravé was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, négocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantième degré, comprenant toute la + côte de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percée, Gachepé, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la rivière de Canada, tant d'un côté que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivières qui entrent au dedans désdites côtes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grâce on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Gravé, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Hève on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grâce, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Gravé, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Gravé +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Gravé. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Gravé proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoüet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Déserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the curé, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspé, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Gravé arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built fires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the hook was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques à celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante à quarante cinq lieues; la première rivière + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette étendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Géographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-déserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _pemé'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdoré, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgeré + de Vitré, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + né-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Française du Télégraph de Paris à New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Gravé had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Gravé were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. the situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Gravé as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Gravé, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Gravé should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Gravé set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Gravé with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Gravé and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortuné_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupçonneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Rivière de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les François estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a esté + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt présenta à feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation à luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requérant + humblement Sa Majesté de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agréable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jésuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortuné_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities. They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupçonneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OF THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _éclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment. The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Hève, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Hève in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estévan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, André Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Gravé, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Gravé, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Gravé, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Gravé himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Gravé +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _débris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point. It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until Pont Gravé and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Gravé, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jésuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment. It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Gravé, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Gravé had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Gravé to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Percé, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Gravé, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the same time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Hélène Boullé, the daughter of Nicholas Boullé, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boullé, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuèrent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocté, comme qui diroit, là où le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocté_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Cartier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brébeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nôstre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort. These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pièces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. César, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Condé, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maillé Brézé, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDÉ.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIÈRE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point à Callière. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and seeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Château de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Gravé, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoüat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoüat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoüat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudière +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudière_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Condé, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Médicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Condé, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Condé and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Médicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Condé, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clémence de Maillé-Brézé. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Condé. During the detention of + the Prince de Condé in prison, the Mareschal de Thémins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Médicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houêl, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Étienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brûlé, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Rivière des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiagué, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiagué, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing weir. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Étienne Brûlé, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing weir and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinté, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brûlé had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiagué, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiagué, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and snow-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Relevés_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Massé. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Médicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Hève in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Massé, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Taché, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiagué_. Dr. Taché places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia, in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe. This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinté Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, _Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort. They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake. If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Gravé, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Étienne Brulé, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brulé related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of seeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Gravé. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Gravé was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Gravé spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Condé having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boullé, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Émeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Gravé and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Émeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boullé, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boullé succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Émeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sébastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houêl, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Étienne Brulé, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brulé's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen. He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition. This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Découvertes et Êtablissements des Français, dans l'ouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huit toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdière's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hébert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163. There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Émeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musqué, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne année ils en auoyent emporté iusques + à 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque année est de 15000, ou 20000, à une + pistole la pièce, ce n'est pas mal allé."--_Vide Rélation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Année_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained.--_Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently assured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why it would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Gravé and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspé. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender his whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety. About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, arrived in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspé with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hébert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspé, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boullé, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail. +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Émeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Châteauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou, [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthélémy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company. Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres.--_Vide Mercure François_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagné de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard._ Champlain writes _Coulart._ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hébert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English.--_Vide Laverdière's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abregé des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger à un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdière's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, année + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Père Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ÉMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Émeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Massé and Jean de Brébeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brébeuf and De Nouë, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Champlain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduîte en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commencé ceste + année à l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_. Québec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos prédications ayent esté bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisiéme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, à Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Père Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pièces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterré prés du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erigé exprés pour honorer la memoire de ce + signalé personnage qui a tant obligé la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbés Laverdière and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbé Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Père Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Père Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Père Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Père + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbé Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbé Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inédits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbé H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Hélène Boullé, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Hélène Boullé, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Hélène de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boullé, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement. He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life. He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdière's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations. But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inédits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne + Charavay, archiviste-paléographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLÉ. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inédits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVÉ. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inférieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inférieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont décrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhé et au Siége de la Rochelle, et la Réduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-déserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Désert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Étienne Brûlé, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdière's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdière's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'après un portrait gravé par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilège" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites és descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, façon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantité de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, à la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Condé en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'année_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'année +1615. iusques à la fin de l'année 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce païs depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Où se voit comme ce pays a esté premierement +descouuert par les François, sous l'authorité de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majesté à present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, à l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitté de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdière to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbé Laverdière, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIÉES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBÉ C. H. LAVERDIÈRE, M. A. SECONDE ÉDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUÉBEC: +IMPRIMÉ AU SÉMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'année mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'année mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdière among the "Pièces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdière it was in the possession of M. Féret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdière suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Récollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdière in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigné. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +où au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manières de lacs, d'où +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques à vn lieu +où nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, où il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer à la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, où le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme à moitié +chemin de celle par où reuint ledict sieur Preuert, où sont comme deux +manières de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes à quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied à terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantité d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint à nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupçonneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'où nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter à nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres à faute, & deux ou trois +balles à chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_déserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _équille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitière_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grâce, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg.. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspé, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspé. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistère, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdière says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepé_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspé_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspé, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdière, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jésuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdière in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitæ. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbé Laverdière, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdière thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Gravé took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Gravé of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Laflèche, as cited + by Laverdière, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une manière de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLÉANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alençon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes à ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantité: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Récit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Rivière. + +152. _Isle d'Orléans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre à Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated. It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIÈRES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Éloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivières. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivières to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivières would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivières being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contrée de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivières. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbé Laverdière suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Gravé had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdière in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jésuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Rivière Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Rivièrs_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Père Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivières, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivières to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdière cites Thévet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Rivière de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Gravé and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspé. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspé, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Verchères.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdière. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _érable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _élan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Récit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8éss8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Verchères. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Verchères to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Thérèse and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Hélène, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Hélène, probably from + Hélène Boullé, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdière, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jésus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Hélène's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Récit_, above cited. + +190. Rivière St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Rivière_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdière, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdière supposes this insignificant stream to be La Rivière de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cèdres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdière_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu éleué, où il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivières. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivières. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinté. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCÉE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspé, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspé. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspé, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Moluës Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percée, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percée, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspé, Moluës Bay, and Isle Percée are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percée there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percée. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percée is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Moluès_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percée.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregaté_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCÉE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percée on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Évêque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Évesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdière, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chassé, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbé Laverdière, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdière, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdière_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdière_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Rivière Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdière, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdière suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdière, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percée, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Gravé to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspé, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grâce. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar. He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Déserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuière Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuière St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Déserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Liéures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port à Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuière Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Bruslé, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orléans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Condé. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Rivière S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jésuit and Récollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Rivière des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Rivière de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Rivière de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Rivière Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Rivière des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Rivière du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Rivière Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Rivière Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Rivière des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Rivière du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Françoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orléans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Rivière des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuière de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuière de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuière Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigré_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Récollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupçonneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuière des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonnière made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percée. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuière des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal. For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudière_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres à Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuière de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudière, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye François, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuière des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it. They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbé + Laverdière thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Rivière du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons. So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudière the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudière a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudière would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdière's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Rivière du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspé. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdière_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jésus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudière Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissèreni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. Gilman, Esq. Montpelier, Vt. +The Hon. John E. Godfrey Bangor, Me. +Abner C. Goodell, Jr., A.M. Salem, Mass. +Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Chief Justice Horace Gray, L.L.D. Boston, Mass. +William W. Greenough, A.B. Boston, Mass. +Isaac J. Greenwood, A.M. New York, N.Y. +Charles H. Guild, Esq. Somerville, Mass. +The Hon. Robert S. Hale, LL.D. Elizabethtown, N.Y. +C. Fiske Harris, A.M. Providence, R.I. +David Greene Haskins, Jr., A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +The Hon. Francis B. Hayes, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Thomas Wentworth Higginson, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +W. Scott Hill, M.D. Augusta, Me. +James F. Hunnewell, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Theodore Irwin, Esq. Oswego, N.Y. +The Hon. Clark Jillson Worcester, Mass. +Mr. Sawyer Junior Nashua, N.H. +George Lamb, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Edward F. de Lancey, Esq. New York, N.Y. +William B. Lapham, M.D. Augusta, Me. +Henry Lee, A.M. Boston, Mass. +John A. Lewis, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq. Buffalo, N.Y. +William T. R. Marvin, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William F. Matchett, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Frederic W. G. May, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. James H. Means, D.D. Boston, Mass. +George H. Moore, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Henry C. Murphy, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +The Rev. James De Normandie, A.M. Portsmouth, N.H. +The Hon. James W. North. Augusta, Me. +Prof. Charles E. Norton, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +John H. Osborne, Esq. Auburn, N.Y. +George T. Paine, Esq. Providence, R.I. +The Hon. John Gorham Palfrey, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Daniel Parish, Jr., Esq. New York, N. Y. +Francis Parkman, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Augustus T. Perkins, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., LL.D. Davenport, Iowa. +William Frederic Poole, A.M. Chicago, Ill. +George Prince, Esq. Bath, Me. +Capt. William Prince, U.S.A. New Orleans, La. +Samuel S. Purple, M.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. John Phelps Futnam, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Edward Ashton Rollins, A.M. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Mark Skinner Chicago, Ill. +The Rev. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Posting Date: October 5, 2014 [EBook #6653] +Release Date: October, 2004 +First Posted: January 10, 2003 +[Last updated: January 31, 2016] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES OF DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, +and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team, from images +generously made available by the Canadian Institute for +Historical Microreproductions. + + + + + + + + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o.' It is here represented with an '8.' + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'apres un portrait grave par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonniere, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur General +de la Bibliotheque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inferieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbe H. +R. Casgrain, of Riviere Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Conde encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Conde, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Medicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Conde, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Chateau de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Chateau de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus a leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel depend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaille qui en etoit Gouverneur, fut charge de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingenieurs Italiens, presiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, a la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Conde, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mere + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit a faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Conde resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, a Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Conde. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, a Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Medicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomeny, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Francoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to Cesar, Duc de Vendome, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrees, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors. He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, apres m'avoir si bien servi a mes + noces." At the siege of the Chateau de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien merite du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amerement la perte de leur General. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son pere, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extremement touchez de sa mort. Malgre la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il etoit si estime + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fut agi de trouver un chevalier + Francois sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, a Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantome_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. Francois d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Conde. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Genealogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantome_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, a + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Prefixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provencal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Grave, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Grave, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspe took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of Francois de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Grave, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Grave hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Grave, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspe, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Grave and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspe, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Grave, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspe on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grace, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 40th +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspe, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Grave, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothee, of Havre de Grace, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres, and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Remarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Medicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au meme tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armee de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Grave was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, negocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantieme degre, comprenant toute la + cote de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percee, Gachepe, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la riviere de Canada, tant d'un cote que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivieres qui entrent au dedans desdites cotes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grace on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Grave, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Heve on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grace, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Grave, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Grave +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Grave. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Grave proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoueet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Deserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the cure, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspe, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Grave arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built fires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the hook was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques a celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante a quarante cinq lieues; la premiere riviere + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette etendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Geographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-deserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _peme'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdore, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgere + de Vitre, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jesuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + ne-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Francaise du Telegraph de Paris a New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Grave had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Grave were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. the situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Grave as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Grave, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Grave should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Grave set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Grave with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Grave and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortune_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupconneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Riviere de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les Francois estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a este + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt presenta a feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation a luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requerant + humblement Sa Majeste de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agreable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jesuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortune_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities. They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupconneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OF THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _eclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment. The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Heve, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Heve in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estevan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, Andre Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Grave, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Grave, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Grave, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Grave himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Grave +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _debris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point. It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until Pont Grave and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Grave, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jesuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment. It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Grave, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Grave had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Grave to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Perce, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Grave, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the same time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Helene Boulle, the daughter of Nicholas Boulle, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boulle, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuerent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocte, comme qui diroit, la ou le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocte_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Cartier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brebeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nostre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort. These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pieces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. Cesar, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Conde, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maille Breze, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIERE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point a Calliere. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and seeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Chateau de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Conde, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Grave, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoueat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoueat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoueat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudiere +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudiere_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Conde, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Medicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Conde, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Conde and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Medicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Conde, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clemence de Maille-Breze. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Conde. During the detention of + the Prince de Conde in prison, the Mareschal de Themins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Medicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houel, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Etienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brule, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Riviere des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiague, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiague, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing weir. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Etienne Brule, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing weir and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinte, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brule had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiague, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiague, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and snow-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Releves_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Masse. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Medicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Heve in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Masse, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Tache, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiague_. Dr. Tache places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia, in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe. This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinte Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, _Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort. They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake. If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDE SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Grave, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Etienne Brule, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brule related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of seeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Grave. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Grave was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Grave spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Conde having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boulle, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Emeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Grave and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Emeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boulle, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boulle succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Emeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sebastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houel, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Etienne Brule, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brule's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen. He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition. This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Decouvertes et Etablissements des Francais, dans l'ouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huit toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdiere's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hebert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163. There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Emeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musque, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne annee ils en auoyent emporte iusques + a 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque annee est de 15000, ou 20000, a une + pistole la piece, ce n'est pas mal alle."--_Vide Relation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Annee_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained.--_Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently assured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why it would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Grave and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspe. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender his whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety. About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, arrived in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspe with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hebert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspe, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boulle, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail. +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Emeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Chateauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou, [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthelemy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company. Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres.--_Vide Mercure Francois_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagne de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard._ Champlain writes _Coulart._ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hebert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English.--_Vide Laverdiere's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abrege des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger a un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdiere's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, annee + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Pere Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +EMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Emeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Masse and Jean de Brebeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brebeuf and De Noue, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Champlain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduite en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commence ceste + annee a l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_. Quebec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos predications ayent este bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisieme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, a Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Pere Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pieces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterre pres du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erige expres pour honorer la memoire de ce + signale personnage qui a tant oblige la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbes Laverdiere and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbe Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Pere Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Pere Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Pere Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Pere + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbe Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbe Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inedits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbe H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Helene Boulle, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Helene Boulle, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Helene de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boulle, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement. He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life. He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdiere's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations. But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inedits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Etienne + Charavay, archiviste-paleographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLE. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inedits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Etienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVE. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inferieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inferieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont decrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhe et au Siege de la Rochelle, et la Reduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-deserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Desert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Etienne Brule, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdiere's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdiere's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'apres un portrait grave par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilege" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites es descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, facon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantite de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, a la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Conde en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'annee_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'annee +1615. iusques a la fin de l'annee 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce pais depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Ou se voit comme ce pays a este premierement +descouuert par les Francois, sous l'authorite de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majeste a present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, a l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitte de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdiere to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbe Laverdiere, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIEES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITE LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBE C. H. LAVERDIERE, M. A. SECONDE EDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUEBEC: +IMPRIME AU SEMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'annee mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'annee mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdiere among the "Pieces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdiere it was in the possession of M. Feret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdiere suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Recollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdiere in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigne. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +ou au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manieres de lacs, d'ou +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques a vn lieu +ou nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, ou il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer a la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, ou le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme a moitie +chemin de celle par ou reuint ledict sieur Preuert, ou sont comme deux +manieres de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes a quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied a terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantite d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint a nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupconneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'ou nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter a nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres a faute, & deux ou trois +balles a chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_deserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _equille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitiere_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grace, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspe, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspe. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistere, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdiere says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepe_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspe_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspe, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdiere, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jesuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdiere in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitae. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbe Laverdiere, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdiere thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Grave took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Grave of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Lafleche, as cited + by Laverdiere, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une maniere de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLEANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alencon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes a ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantite: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Recit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Riviere. + +152. _Isle d'Orleans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre a Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated. It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIERES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Eloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivieres. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivieres to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivieres would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivieres being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contree de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivieres. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbe Laverdiere suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Grave had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdiere in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdiere in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Riviere Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Riviers_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Pere Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivieres, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivieres to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdiere cites Thevet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Riviere de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Grave and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspe. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspe, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Vercheres.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdiere. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _erable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _elan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Recit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8ess8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Vercheres. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Vercheres to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Therese and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Helene, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Helene, probably from + Helene Boulle, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdiere, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jesus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Helene's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Recit_, above cited. + +190. Riviere St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Riviere_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdiere, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdiere supposes this insignificant stream to be La Riviere de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cedres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdiere_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu eleue, ou il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivieres. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivieres. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinte. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCEE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspe, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspe. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspe, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Molues Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percee, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percee, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspe, Molues Bay, and Isle Percee are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percee there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percee. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percee is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Molues_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percee.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregate_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCEE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percee on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Eveque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Evesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdiere, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chasse, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbe Laverdiere, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdiere, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdiere_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdiere_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Riviere Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdiere, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdiere suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdiere, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percee, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Grave to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspe, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grace. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar. He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Deserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-real_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuiere Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuiere St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Deserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Lieures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port a Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuiere Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Brusle, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orleans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Conde. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Riviere S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jesuit and Recollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Riviere des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Riviere de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Riviere de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Riviere Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Riviere des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Riviere du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Riviere Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Riviere Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Riviere des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Riviere du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Francoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orleans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Riviere des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuiere de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuiere de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuiere Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigre_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Recollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupconneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuiere des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonniere made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percee. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-real_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuiere des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal. For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudiere_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres a Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuiere de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudiere, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye Francois, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuiere des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it. They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbe + Laverdiere thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Riviere du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons. So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudiere the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudiere a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudiere would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdiere's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Riviere du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspe. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdiere_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jesus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudiere Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissereni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. Gilman, Esq. Montpelier, Vt. +The Hon. John E. Godfrey Bangor, Me. +Abner C. Goodell, Jr., A.M. Salem, Mass. +Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Chief Justice Horace Gray, L.L.D. Boston, Mass. +William W. Greenough, A.B. Boston, Mass. +Isaac J. Greenwood, A.M. New York, N.Y. +Charles H. Guild, Esq. Somerville, Mass. +The Hon. Robert S. Hale, LL.D. Elizabethtown, N.Y. +C. Fiske Harris, A.M. Providence, R.I. +David Greene Haskins, Jr., A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +The Hon. Francis B. Hayes, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Thomas Wentworth Higginson, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +W. Scott Hill, M.D. Augusta, Me. +James F. Hunnewell, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Theodore Irwin, Esq. Oswego, N.Y. +The Hon. Clark Jillson Worcester, Mass. +Mr. Sawyer Junior Nashua, N.H. +George Lamb, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Edward F. de Lancey, Esq. New York, N.Y. +William B. Lapham, M.D. Augusta, Me. +Henry Lee, A.M. Boston, Mass. +John A. Lewis, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq. Buffalo, N.Y. +William T. R. Marvin, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William F. Matchett, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Frederic W. G. May, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. James H. Means, D.D. Boston, Mass. +George H. Moore, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Henry C. Murphy, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +The Rev. James De Normandie, A.M. Portsmouth, N.H. +The Hon. James W. North. Augusta, Me. +Prof. Charles E. Norton, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +John H. Osborne, Esq. Auburn, N.Y. +George T. Paine, Esq. Providence, R.I. +The Hon. John Gorham Palfrey, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Daniel Parish, Jr., Esq. New York, N. Y. +Francis Parkman, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Augustus T. Perkins, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., LL.D. Davenport, Iowa. +William Frederic Poole, A.M. Chicago, Ill. +George Prince, Esq. Bath, Me. +Capt. William Prince, U.S.A. New Orleans, La. +Samuel S. Purple, M.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. John Phelps Futnam, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Edward Ashton Rollins, A.M. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Mark Skinner Chicago, Ill. +The Rev. Carlos Slafter, A.M. Dedham, Mass. +The Rev. Edmund F. Slafter, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles C. Smith, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Samuel T. Snow, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Oliver Bliss Stebbins, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Stevens, Esq. Lowell, Mass. +The Hon. Edwin W. Stoughton. New York, N.Y. +William B. Trask, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. William H. Tuthill. Tipton, Iowa. +Charles W. Tuttle, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Alexander Hamilton Vinton, D.D. Pomfret, Ct. +Joseph B. Walker, A.M. Concord, N.H. +William Henry Wardwell, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Miss Rachel Wetherill Philadelphia, Pa. +Henry Wheatland, A.M., M.D. Salem, Mass. +John Gardner White, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +William Adee Whitehead, A.M. Newark, N.J. +William H. Whitmore, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Henry Austin Whitney, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +Henry Winsor, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Charles Levi Woodbury, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Ashbel Woodward, M.D. Franklin, Ct. +J. Otis Woodward, Esq. 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You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6653] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 10, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. +This file was produced from images generously made available by the Canadian +Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o'. It is here represented with an '8'. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'apres un portrait grave par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonniere, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur General +de la Bibliotheque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inferieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbe H. +R. Casgrain, of Riviere Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Conde encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Conde, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Medicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Conde, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Chateau de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Chateau de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus a leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel depend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaille qui en etoit Gouverneur, fut charge de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingenieurs Italiens, presiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, a la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Conde, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mere + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit a faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Conde resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, a Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Conde. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, a Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Medicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomeny, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Francoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to Cesar, Duc de Vendome, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrees, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, apres m'avoir si bien servi a mes + noces." At the siege of the Chateau de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien merite du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amerement la perte de leur General. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son pere, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extremement touchez de sa mort. Malgre la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il etoit si estime + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fut agi de trouver un chevalier + Francois sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, a Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantome_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. Francois d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Conde. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Genealogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantome_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, a + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Prefixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provencal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Grave, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Grave, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspe took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of Francois de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Grave, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Grave hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Grave, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspe, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Grave and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspe, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Grave, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspe on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grace, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 4Oth +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspe, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Grave, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothee, of Havre de Grace, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres. and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Remarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Medicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au meme tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armee de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Grave was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, negocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantieme degre, comprenant toute la + cote de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percee, Gachepe, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la riviere de Canada, tant d'un cote que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivieres qui entrent au dedans desdites cotes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grace on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Grave, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Heve on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grace, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Grave, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Grave +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Grave. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Grave proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both Silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoueet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Deserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the cure, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspe, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Grave arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built sires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the book was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques a celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante a quarante cinq lieues; la premiere riviere + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette etendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Geographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-deserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _peme'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdore, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgere + de Vitre, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jesuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + ne-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Francaise du Telegraph de Paris a New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Grave had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Grave were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. The situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Grave as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Grave, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Grave should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Grave set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Grave with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Grave and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortune_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupconneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Riviere de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les Francois estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a este + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt presenta a feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation a luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requerant + humblement Sa Majeste de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agreable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jesuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortune_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupconneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OK THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _eclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Heve, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Heve in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estevan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, Andre Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Grave, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Grave, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Grave, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Grave himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Grave +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _debris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until. Pont Grave and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Grave, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim Signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jesuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Grave, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Grave had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose, homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Grave to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Perce, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Grave, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the fame time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Helene Boulle, the daughter of Nicholas Boulle, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boulle, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuerent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocte, comme qui diroit, la ou le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocte_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Carrier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brebeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nostre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pieces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. Cesar, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Conde, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maille Breze, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIERE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point a Calliere. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and feeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Chateau de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Conde, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Grave, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoueat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoueat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the Savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoueat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudiere +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudiere_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Conde, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Medicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Conde, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Conde and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Medicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Conde, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clemence de Maille-Breze. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Conde. During the detention of + the Prince de Conde in prison, the Mareschal de Themins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Medicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houel, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Etienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brule, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Riviere des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the Suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiague, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiague, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing wear. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Etienne Brule, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing wear and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinte, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brule had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiague, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiague, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and show-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Releves_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal, the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Masse. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Medicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Heve in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Masse, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Tache, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiague. Dr. Tache places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia. in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinte Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they, continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond, as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDE SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Grave, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Etienne Brule, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brule related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of feeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Grave. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Grave was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Grave spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Conde having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boulle, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Emeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Grave and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Emeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boulle, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boulle succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Emeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sebastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houel, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Etienne Brule, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brule's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Decouvertes et Etablissements des Francais, dans Pouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huiet toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdiere's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hebert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163 There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Emeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musque, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne annee ils en auoyent emporte iusques + a 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque annee est de 15000, ou 20000, a une + pistole la piece, ce n'est pas mal alle."--_Vide Relation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Annee_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained _Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently allured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why if would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Grave and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspe. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender His whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, armed in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspe with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hebert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspe, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boulle, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Emeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Chateauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou? [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthelemy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres--_Vide Mercure Francois_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagne de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard_ Champlain writes _Coulart_ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hebert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English--_Vide Laverdiere's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abrege des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger a un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdiere's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, annee + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Pere Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +EMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Emeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Masse and Jean de Brebeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brebeuf and De Noue, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Chiamplain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduite en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commence ceste + annee a l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_. Quebec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos predications ayent este bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisieme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, a Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Pere Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pieces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterre pres du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erige expres pour honorer la memoire de ce + signale personnage qui a tant oblige la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jesuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbes Laverdiere and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbe Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Pere Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Pere Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Pere Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Pere + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbe Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbe Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inedits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbe H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Helene Boulle, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Helene Boulle, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Helene de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boulle, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdiere's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inedits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Etienne + Charavay, archiviste-paleographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLE. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inedits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Etienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVE. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inferieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inferieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont decrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhe et au Siege de la Rochelle, et la Reduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-deserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Desert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Etienne Brule, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdiere's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdiere's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'apres un portrait grave par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilege" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites es descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, facon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantite de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, a la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Conde en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'annee_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'annee +1615. iusques a la fin de l'annee 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce pais depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Ou se voit comme ce pays a este premierement +descouuert par les Francois, sous l'authorite de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majeste a present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, a l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitte de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdiere to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbe Laverdiere, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIEES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITE LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBE C. H. LAVERDIERE, M. A. SECONDE EDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUEBEC: +IMPRIME AU SEMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'annee mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'annee mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdiere among the "Pieces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdiere it was in the possession of M. Feret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdiere suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Recollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdiere in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigne. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +ou au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manieres de lacs, d'ou +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques a vn lieu +ou nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, ou il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer a la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, ou le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme a moitie +chemin de celle par ou reuint ledict sieur Preuert, ou sont comme deux +manieres de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes a quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied a terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantite d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint a nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupconneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'ou nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter a nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres a faute, & deux ou trois +balles a chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_deserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _equille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitiere_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grace, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg.. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspe, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspe. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistere, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdiere says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepe_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspe_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspe, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdiere, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jesuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdiere in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitae. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbe Laverdiere, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdiere thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Grave took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Grave of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Lafleche, as cited + by Laverdiere, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une maniere de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLEANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alencon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes a ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantite: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Recit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Riviere. + +152. _Isle d'Orleans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre a Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIERES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Eloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivieres. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivieres to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivieres would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivieres being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contree de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivieres. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbe Laverdiere suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Grave had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdiere in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdiere in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Riviere Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Riviers_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Pere Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jesuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivieres, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivieres to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdiere cites Thevet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Riviere de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Recit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Grave and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspe. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspe, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Vercheres.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdiere. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _erable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _elan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Recit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8ess8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Vercheres. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Vercheres to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Therese and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Helene, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Helene, probably from + Helene Boulle, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdiere, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jesus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Helene's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Recit_, above cited. + +190. Riviere St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Riviere_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdiere, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdiere supposes this insignificant stream to be La Riviere de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cedres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdiere_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu eleue, ou il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivieres. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivieres. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinte. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCEE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspe, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspe. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspe, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Molues Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percee, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percee, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspe, Molues Bay, and Isle Percee are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percee there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percee. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percee is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Molues_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percee.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregate_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCEE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percee on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Eveque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Evesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdiere, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chasse, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbe Laverdiere, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdiere, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdiere_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdiere_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Riviere Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdiere, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdiere suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdiere, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percee, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Grave to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspe, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grace. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Deserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-real_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuiere Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuiere St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Deserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Lieures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port a Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuiere Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Brusle, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orleans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Conde. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Riviere S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jesuit and Recollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Riviere des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Riviere de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Riviere de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Riviere Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Riviere des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Riviere du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Riviere Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Riviere Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Riviere des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Riviere du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Francoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orleans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Riviere des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuiere de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuiere de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuiere Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigre_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Recollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupconneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuiere des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonniere made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percee. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-real_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuiere des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudiere_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres a Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuiere de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudiere, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye Francois, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuiere des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbe + Laverdiere thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Riviere du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudiere the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudiere a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudiere would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdiere's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Riviere du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspe. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdiere_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jesus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudiere Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissereni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. 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You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6653] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 10, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. +This file was produced from images generously made available by the Canadian +Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o'. It is here represented with an '8'. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'apres un portrait grave par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonnière, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur Général +de la Bibliothèque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inférieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbé H. +R. Casgrain, of Rivière Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Condé encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Condé, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Médicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Condé, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Château de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Château de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus à leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel dépend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaillé qui en étoit Gouverneur, fut chargé de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingénieurs Italiens, présiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, à la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Condé, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mère + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit à faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Condé resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Condé. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Médicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomény, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Françoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to César, Duc de Vendôme, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, après m'avoir si bien servi à mes + noces." At the siege of the Château de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien mérité du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amérement la perte de leur Général. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son père, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extrêmement touchez de sa mort. Malgré la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il étoit si estimé + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fût agi de trouver un chevalier + François sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantôme_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. François d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Condé. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Généalogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantôme_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, à + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Préfixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provençal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Gravé, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Gravé, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspé took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of François de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Gravé, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Gravé hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Gravé, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspé, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Gravé and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspé, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Gravé, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspé on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grâce, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 4Oth +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspé, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Gravé, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothée, of Havre de Grâce, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres. and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Rémarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Médicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au même tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armée de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Gravé was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, négocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantième degré, comprenant toute la + côte de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percée, Gachepé, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la rivière de Canada, tant d'un côté que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivières qui entrent au dedans désdites côtes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grâce on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Gravé, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Hève on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grâce, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Gravé, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Gravé +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Gravé. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Gravé proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both Silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoüet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Déserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the curé, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspé, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Gravé arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built sires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the book was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques à celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante à quarante cinq lieues; la première rivière + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette étendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Géographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-déserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _pemé'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdoré, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgeré + de Vitré, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + né-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Française du Télégraph de Paris à New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Gravé had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Gravé were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. The situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Gravé as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Gravé, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Gravé should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Gravé set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Gravé with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Gravé and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortuné_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupçonneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Rivière de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les François estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a esté + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt présenta à feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation à luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requérant + humblement Sa Majesté de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agréable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jésuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortuné_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupçonneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OK THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _éclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Hève, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Hève in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estévan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, André Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Gravé, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Gravé, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Gravé, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Gravé himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Gravé +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _débris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until. Pont Gravé and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Gravé, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim Signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jésuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Gravé, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Gravé had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose, homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Gravé to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Percé, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Gravé, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the fame time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Hélène Boullé, the daughter of Nicholas Boullé, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boullé, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuèrent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocté, comme qui diroit, là où le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocté_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Carrier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brébeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nôstre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pièces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. César, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Condé, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maillé Brézé, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDÉ.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIÈRE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point à Callière. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and feeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Château de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Gravé, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoüat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoüat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the Savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoüat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudière +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudière_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Condé, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Médicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Condé, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Condé and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Médicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Condé, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clémence de Maillé-Brézé. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Condé. During the detention of + the Prince de Condé in prison, the Mareschal de Thémins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Médicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houêl, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Étienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brûlé, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Rivière des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the Suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiagué, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiagué, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing wear. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Étienne Brûlé, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing wear and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinté, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brûlé had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiagué, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiagué, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and show-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Relevés_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal, the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Massé. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Médicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Hève in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Massé, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Taché, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiagué. Dr. Taché places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia. in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinté Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they, continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond, as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Gravé, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Étienne Brulé, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brulé related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of feeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Gravé. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Gravé was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Gravé spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Condé having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boullé, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Émeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Gravé and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Émeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boullé, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boullé succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Émeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sébastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houêl, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Étienne Brulé, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brulé's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Découvertes et Êtablissements des Français, dans Pouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huiet toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdière's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hébert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163 There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Émeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musqué, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne année ils en auoyent emporté iusques + à 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque année est de 15000, ou 20000, à une + pistole la pièce, ce n'est pas mal allé."--_Vide Rélation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Année_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained _Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently allured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why if would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Gravé and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspé. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender His whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, armed in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspé with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hébert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspé, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boullé, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Émeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Châteauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou? [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthélémy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres--_Vide Mercure François_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagné de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard_ Champlain writes _Coulart_ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hébert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English--_Vide Laverdière's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abregé des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger à un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdière's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, année + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Père Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ÉMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Émeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Massé and Jean de Brébeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brébeuf and De Nouë, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Chiamplain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduîte en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commencé ceste + année à l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_. Québec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos prédications ayent esté bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisiéme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, à Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Père Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pièces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterré prés du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erigé exprés pour honorer la memoire de ce + signalé personnage qui a tant obligé la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbés Laverdière and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbé Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Père Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Père Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Père Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Père + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbé Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbé Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inédits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbé H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Hélène Boullé, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Hélène Boullé, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Hélène de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boullé, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdière's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inédits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne + Charavay, archiviste-paléographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLÉ. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inédits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVÉ. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inférieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inférieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont décrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhé et au Siége de la Rochelle, et la Réduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-déserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Désert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Étienne Brûlé, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdière's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdière's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'après un portrait gravé par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilège" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites és descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, façon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantité de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, à la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Condé en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'année_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'année +1615. iusques à la fin de l'année 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce païs depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Où se voit comme ce pays a esté premierement +descouuert par les François, sous l'authorité de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majesté à present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, à l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitté de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdière to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbé Laverdière, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIÉES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBÉ C. H. LAVERDIÈRE, M. A. SECONDE ÉDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUÉBEC: +IMPRIMÉ AU SÉMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'année mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'année mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdière among the "Pièces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdière it was in the possession of M. Féret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdière suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Récollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdière in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigné. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +où au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manières de lacs, d'où +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques à vn lieu +où nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, où il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer à la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, où le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme à moitié +chemin de celle par où reuint ledict sieur Preuert, où sont comme deux +manières de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes à quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied à terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantité d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint à nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupçonneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'où nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter à nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres à faute, & deux ou trois +balles à chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_déserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _équille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitière_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grâce, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg.. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspé, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspé. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistère, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdière says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepé_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspé_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspé, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdière, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jésuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdière in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitæ. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbé Laverdière, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdière thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Gravé took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Gravé of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Laflèche, as cited + by Laverdière, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une manière de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLÉANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alençon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes à ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantité: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Récit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Rivière. + +152. _Isle d'Orléans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre à Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIÈRES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Éloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivières. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivières to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivières would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivières being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contrée de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivières. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbé Laverdière suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Gravé had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdière in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jésuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Rivière Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Rivièrs_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Père Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivières, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivières to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdière cites Thévet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Rivière de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Gravé and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspé. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspé, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Verchères.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdière. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _érable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _élan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Récit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8éss8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Verchères. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Verchères to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Thérèse and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Hélène, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Hélène, probably from + Hélène Boullé, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdière, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jésus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Hélène's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Récit_, above cited. + +190. Rivière St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Rivière_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdière, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdière supposes this insignificant stream to be La Rivière de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cèdres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdière_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu éleué, où il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivières. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivières. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinté. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCÉE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspé, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspé. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspé, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Moluës Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percée, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percée, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspé, Moluës Bay, and Isle Percée are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percée there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percée. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percée is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Moluès_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percée.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregaté_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCÉE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percée on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Évêque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Évesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdière, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chassé, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbé Laverdière, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdière, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdière_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdière_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Rivière Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdière, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdière suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdière, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percée, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Gravé to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspé, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grâce. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Déserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuière Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuière St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Déserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Liéures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port à Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuière Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Bruslé, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orléans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Condé. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Rivière S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jésuit and Récollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Rivière des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Rivière de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Rivière de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Rivière Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Rivière des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Rivière du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Rivière Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Rivière Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Rivière des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Rivière du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Françoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orléans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Rivière des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuière de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuière de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuière Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigré_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Récollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupçonneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuière des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonnière made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percée. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuière des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudière_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres à Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuière de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudière, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye François, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuière des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbé + Laverdière thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Rivière du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudière the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudière a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudière would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdière's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Rivière du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspé. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdière_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jésus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudière Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissèreni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. Gilman, Esq. Montpelier, Vt. +The Hon. John E. Godfrey Bangor, Me. +Abner C. Goodell, Jr., A.M. Salem, Mass. +Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Chief Justice Horace Gray, L.L.D. Boston, Mass. +William W. Greenough, A.B. Boston, Mass. +Isaac J. Greenwood, A.M. New York, N.Y. +Charles H. Guild, Esq. Somerville, Mass. +The Hon. Robert S. Hale, LL.D. Elizabethtown, N.Y. +C. Fiske Harris, A.M. Providence, R.I. +David Greene Haskins, Jr., A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +The Hon. Francis B. Hayes, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Thomas Wentworth Higginson, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +W. Scott Hill, M.D. Augusta, Me. +James F. Hunnewell, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Theodore Irwin, Esq. Oswego, N.Y. +The Hon. Clark Jillson Worcester, Mass. +Mr. Sawyer Junior Nashua, N.H. +George Lamb, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Edward F. de Lancey, Esq. New York, N.Y. +William B. Lapham, M.D. Augusta, Me. +Henry Lee, A.M. Boston, Mass. +John A. Lewis, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq. Buffalo, N.Y. +William T. R. Marvin, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William F. Matchett, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Frederic W. G. May, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. James H. Means, D.D. Boston, Mass. +George H. Moore, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Henry C. Murphy, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +The Rev. James De Normandie, A.M. Portsmouth, N.H. +The Hon. James W. North. Augusta, Me. +Prof. Charles E. Norton, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +John H. Osborne, Esq. Auburn, N.Y. +George T. Paine, Esq. Providence, R.I. +The Hon. John Gorham Palfrey, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Daniel Parish, Jr., Esq. New York, N. Y. +Francis Parkman, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Augustus T. Perkins, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., LL.D. Davenport, Iowa. +William Frederic Poole, A.M. Chicago, Ill. +George Prince, Esq. Bath, Me. +Capt. William Prince, U.S.A. New Orleans, La. +Samuel S. Purple, M.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. John Phelps Futnam, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Edward Ashton Rollins, A.M. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Mark Skinner Chicago, Ill. +The Rev. Carlos Slafter, A.M. Dedham, Mass. +The Rev. Edmund F. Slafter, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles C. Smith, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Samuel T. Snow, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Oliver Bliss Stebbins, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Stevens, Esq. Lowell, Mass. +The Hon. Edwin W. Stoughton. New York, N.Y. +William B. Trask, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. William H. Tuthill. Tipton, Iowa. +Charles W. Tuttle, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Alexander Hamilton Vinton, D.D. Pomfret, Ct. +Joseph B. Walker, A.M. Concord, N.H. +William Henry Wardwell, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Miss Rachel Wetherill Philadelphia, Pa. +Henry Wheatland, A.M., M.D. Salem, Mass. +John Gardner White, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +William Adee Whitehead, A.M. Newark, N.J. +William H. Whitmore, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Henry Austin Whitney, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +Henry Winsor, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Charles Levi Woodbury, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Ashbel Woodward, M.D. Franklin, Ct. +J. Otis Woodward, Esq. Albany, N.Y. + +LIBRARIES. + +American Antiquarian Society Worcester, Mass. +Amherst College Library Amherst, Mass. +Astor Library New York, N.Y. +Boston Athenaeum Boston, Mass. +Boston Library Society Boston, Mass. +British Museum London, Eng. +Concord Public Library Concord, Mass. +Eben Dale Sutton Reference Library Peabody, Mass. +Free Public Library Worcester, Mass. +Grosvenor Library Buffalo, N.Y. +Harvard College Library Cambridge, Mass. +Historical Society of Pennfylvania Philadelphia, Pa. +Library Company of Philadelphia Philadelphia, Pa. +Library of Parliament Ottawa, Canada. +Library of the State Department Washington, D.C. +Long Island Historical Society Brooklyn, N.Y. +Maine Historical Society Brunswick, Me. +Maryland Historical Society Baltimore, Md. +Massachusetts Historical Society Boston, Mass. +Mercantile Library New York, N.Y. +Minnesota Historical Society St. Paul, Minn. +Newburyport Public Library, Peabody Fund Newburyport, Mass. +New England Historic Genealogical Society Boston, Mass. +Newton Free Library Newton, Mass. +New York Society Library New York, N.Y. +Plymouth Public Library Plymouth, Mass. +Portsmouth Athenaeum Portsmouth, N.H. +Public Library of the City of Boston Boston, Mass. +Redwood Library Newport, R.I. +State Library of Massachusetts Boston, Mass. +State Library of New York Albany, N.Y. +State Library of Rhode Island Providence, R.I. +State Library of Vermont Montpelier, Vt. +Williams College Library Williamstown, Mass. +Yale College Library New Haven, Ct. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + +This file should be named 8vcv110.txt or 8vcv110.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8vcv111.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8vcv110a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, Vol. 1 + +Author: Samuel de Champlain + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6653] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 10, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + + + + +Produced by Karl Hagen, Juliet Sutherland, Charles Franks, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. +This file was produced from images generously made available by the Canadian +Institute for Historical Microreproductions. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The footnotes in the main portion of the original text, which are lengthy +and numerous, have been converted to endnotes that appear at the end of +each chapter. Their numeration is the same as in the original. + +The original spelling remains unaltered, with the following exceptions: + +1. This text was originally printed with tall-s. They have been replaced + here with ordinary 's.' + +2. Some quotations from the 17th-century French reproduce manuscript + abbreviation marks (macrons over vowels). These represent 'n' or 'm' and + have been expanded. + +3. In the transcription of some words of the Algonquian languages, the + original text of this edition uses a character that resembles an + infinity sign. This is taken from the old system that the Jesuits used + to record these languages, and represents a long, nasalized, unrounded + 'o'. It is here represented with an '8'. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S VOYAGES. + +[Illustration: Champlain (Samuel De) d'apres un portrait grave par +Moncornet] + +VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + +TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH + +By CHARLES POMEROY OTIS, Ph.D. + +WITH HISTORICAL ILLUSTRATIONS, and a MEMOIR + +By the REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. + +VOL. I. 1567-1635 + +FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. + +Editor: The REV EDMUND F SLAFTER, A.M. + + + + +PREFACE + +The labors and achievements of the navigators and explorers, who visited +our coasts between the last years of the fifteenth and the early years of +the seventeenth centuries, were naturally enough not fully appreciated by +their contemporaries, nor were their relations to the future growth of +European interests and races on this continent comprehended in the age in +which they lived. Numberless events in which they were actors, and personal +characteristics which might have illustrated and enriched their history, +were therefore never placed upon record. In intimate connection with the +career of Cabot, Cartier, Roberval, Ribaut, Laudonnière, Gosnold, Pring, +and Smith, there were vast domains of personal incident and interesting +fact over which the waves of oblivion have passed forever. Nor has +Champlain been more fortunate than the rest. In studying his life and +character, we are constantly finding ourselves longing to know much where +we are permitted to know but little. His early years, the processes of his +education, his home virtues, his filial affection and duty, his social and +domestic habits and mode of life, we know imperfectly; gathering only a few +rays of light here and there in numerous directions, as we follow him along +his lengthened career. The reader will therefore fail to find very much +that he might well desire to know, and that I should have been but too +happy to embody in this work. In the positive absence of knowledge, this +want could only be supplied from the field of pure imagination. To draw +from this source would have been alien both to my judgment and to my taste. + +But the essential and important events of Champlain's public career are +happily embalmed in imperishable records. To gather these up and weave them +into an impartial and truthful narrative has been the simple purpose of my +present attempt. If I have succeeded in marshalling the authentic deeds and +purposes of his life into a complete whole, giving to each undertaking and +event its true value and importance, so that the historian may more easily +comprehend the fulness of that life which Champlain consecrated to the +progress of geographical knowledge, to the aggrandizement of France, and to +the dissemination of the Christian faith in the church of which he was a +member, I shall feel that my aim has been fully achieved. + +The annotations which accompany Dr. Otis's faithful and scholarly +translation are intended to give to the reader such information as he may +need for a full understanding of the text, and which he could not otherwise +obtain without the inconvenience of troublesome, and, in many instances, of +difficult and perplexing investigations. The sources of my information are +so fully given in connection with the notes that no further reference to +them in this place is required. + +In the progress of the work, I have found myself under great obligations to +numerous friends for the loan of rare books, and for valuable suggestions +and assistance. The readiness with which historical scholars and the +custodians of our great depositories of learning have responded to my +inquiries, and the cordiality and courtesy with which they have uniformly +proffered their assistance, have awakened my deepest gratitude. I take this +opportunity to tender my cordial thanks to those who have thus obliged and +aided me. And, while I cannot spread the names of all upon these pages, I +hasten to mention, first of all, my friend, Dr. Otis, with whom I have been +so closely associated, and whose courteous manner and kindly suggestions +have rendered my task always an agreeable one. I desire, likewise, to +mention Mr. George Lamb, of Boston, who has gratuitously executed and +contributed a map, illustrating the explorations of Champlain; Mr. Justin +Winsor, of the Library of Harvard College; Mr. Charles A. Cutter, of the +Boston Athenaeum; Mr. John Ward Dean, of the Library of the New England +Historic Genealogical Society; Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, +R. I.; Miss S. E. Dorr, of Boston; Monsieur L. Delisle, Directeur Général +de la Bibliothèque Nationale, of Paris; M. Meschinet De Richemond, +Archiviste de la Charente Inférieure, La Rochelle, France; the Hon. Charles +H. Bell, of Exeter, N. H.; Francis Parkman, LL.D., of Boston; the Abbé H. +R. Casgrain, of Rivière Ouelle, Canada; John G. Shea, LL.D., of New York; +Mr. James M. LeMoine, of Quebec; and Mr. George Prince, of Bath, Maine. + +I take this occasion to state for the information of the members of the +Prince Society, that some important facts contained in the Memoir had not +been received when the text and notes of the second volume were ready for +the press, and, to prevent any delay in the completion of the whole work, +Vol. II. was issued before Vol. I., as will appear by the dates on their +respective title-pages. + +E. F. S. + +BOSTON, 14 ARLINGTON STREET, November 10, 1880. + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PREFACE + MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION + DEDICATION TO THE ADMIRAL, CHARLES DE MONTMORENCY + EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE OF THE KING + THE SAVAGES, OR VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN, 1603 + CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632 + THE PRINCE SOCIETY, ITS CONSTITUTION AND MEMBERS + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN ON WOOD, AFTER THE ENGRAVING OF + MONCORNET BY E. RONJAT, _heliotype_. + MAP ILLUSTRATING THE EXPLORATIONS OF CHAMPLAIN, _heliotype_. + ENGRAVED PORTRAIT OF CHAMPLAIN, AFTER A PAINTING BY TH. HAMEL FROM AN + ENGRAVING OF MONCORNET, _steel_. + ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE OF THE VOYAGE OF 1615 ET 1618, _heliotype_. + CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE, 1632, _heliotype_. + +INDEX + + + + +MEMOIR OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN. + + +CHAPTER I. + +PARENTAGE--BIRTH--HOME AT BROUAGE--ITS SITUATION--A MILITARY STATION--ITS +SALT WORKS--HIS EDUCATION--EARLY LOVE OF THE SEA--QUARTER-MASTER IN +BRITTANY--CATHOLICS AND HUGUENOTS--CATHERINE DE MEDICIS--THE LEAGUE--DUKE +DE MERCOEUR--MARSHAL D'AUMONT--DE SAINT LUC--MARSHAL DE BRISSAC--PEACE OF +VERVINS + + +Champlain was descended from an ancestry whose names are not recorded among +the renowned families of France. He was the son of Antoine de Champlain, a +captain in the marine, and his wife Marguerite LeRoy. They lived in the +little village of Brouage, in the ancient province of Saintonge. Of their +son Samuel, no contemporaneous record is known to exist indicating either +the day or year of his birth. The period at which we find him engaged in +active and responsible duties, such as are usually assigned to mature +manhood, leads to the conjecture that he was born about the year 1567. Of +his youth little is known. The forces that contributed to the formation of +his character are mostly to be inferred from the abode of his early years, +the occupations of those by whom he was surrounded, and the temper and +spirit of the times in which he lived. + +Brouage is situated in a low, marshy region, on the southern bank of an +inlet or arm of the sea, on the southwestern shores of France, opposite to +that part of the Island of Oleron where it is separated from the mainland +only by a narrow channel. Although this little town can boast a great +antiquity, it never at any time had a large population. It is mentioned by +local historians as early as the middle of the eleventh century. It was a +seigniory of the family of Pons. The village was founded by Jacques de +Pons, after whose proper name it was for a time called Jacopolis, but soon +resumed its ancient appellation of Brouage. + +An old chronicler of the sixteenth century informs us that in his time it +was a port of great importance, and the theatre of a large foreign +commerce. Its harbor, capable of receiving large ships, was excellent, +regarded, indeed, as the finest in the kingdom of France. [1] It was a +favorite idea of Charles VIII. to have at all times several war-ships in +this harbor, ready against any sudden invasion of this part of the coast. + +At the period of Champlain's boyhood, the village of Brouage had two +absorbing interests. First, it had then recently become a military post of +importance; and second, it was the centre of a large manufacture of salt. +To these two interests, the whole population gave their thoughts, their +energy, and their enterprise. + +In the reign of Charles IX., a short time before or perhaps a little after +the birth of Champlain, the town was fortified, and distinguished Italian +engineers were employed to design and execute the work. [2] To prevent a +sudden attack, it was surrounded by a capacious moat. At the four angles +formed by the moat were elevated structures of earth and wood planted upon +piles, with bastions and projecting angles, and the usual devices of +military architecture for the attainment of strength and facility of +defence. [3] + +During the civil wars, stretching over nearly forty years of the last half +of the sixteenth century, with only brief and fitful periods of peace, this +little fortified town was a post ardently coveted by both of the contending +parties. Situated on the same coast, and only a few miles from Rochelle, +the stronghold of the Huguenots, it was obviously exceedingly important to +them that it should be in their possession, both as the key to the commerce +of the surrounding country and from the very great annoyance which an enemy +holding it could offer to them in numberless ways. Notwithstanding its +strong defences, it was nevertheless taken and retaken several times during +the struggles of that period. It was surrendered to the Huguenots in 1570, +but was immediately restored on the peace that presently followed. The king +of Navarre [4] took it by strategy in 1576, placed a strong garrison in it, +repaired and strengthened its fortifications; but the next year it was +forced to surrender to the royal army commanded by the duke of Mayenne. [5] +In 1585, the Huguenots made another attempt to gain possession of the town. +The Prince of Condé encamped with a strong force on the road leading to +Marennes, the only avenue to Brouage by land, while the inhabitants of +Rochelle co-operated by sending down a fleet which completely blocked up +the harbor. [6] While the siege was in successful progress, the prince +unwisely drew off a part of his command for the relief of the castle of +Angiers; [7] and a month later the siege was abandoned and the Huguenot +forces were badly cut to pieces by de Saint Luc, [8] the military governor +of Brouage, who pursued them in their retreat. + +The next year, 1586, the town was again threatened by the Prince of Condé, +who, having collected another army, was met by De Saint Luc near the island +of Oleron, who sallied forth from Brouage with a strong force; and a +conflict ensued, lasting the whole day, with equal loss on both sides, but +with no decisive results. + +Thus until 1589, when the King of Navarre, the leader of the Huguenots, +entered into a truce with Henry III., from Champlain's birth through the +whole period of his youth and until he entered upon his manhood, the little +town within whose walls he was reared was the fitful scene of war and +peace, of alarm and conflict. + +But in the intervals, when the waves of civil strife settled into the calm +of a temporary peace, the citizens returned with alacrity to their usual +employment, the manufacture of salt, which was the absorbing article of +commerce in their port. + +This manufacture was carried on more extensively in Saintonge than in any +other part of France. The salt was obtained by subjecting water drawn from +the ocean to solar evaporation. The low marsh-lands which were very +extensive about Brouage, on the south towards Marennes and on the north +towards Rochefort, were eminently adapted to this purpose. The whole of +this vast region was cut up into salt basins, generally in the form of +parallelograms, excavated at different depths, the earth and rubbish +scooped out and thrown on the sides, forming a platform or path leading +from basin to basin, the whole presenting to the eye the appearance of a +vast chess-board. The argillaceous earth at the bottom of the pans was made +hard to prevent the escape of the water by percolation. This was done in +the larger ones by leading horses over the surface, until, says an old +chronicler, the basins "would hold water as if they were brass." The water +was introduced from the sea, through sluices and sieves of pierced planks, +passing over broad surfaces in shallow currents, furnishing an opportunity +for evaporation from the moment it left the ocean until it found its way +into the numerous salt-basins covering the whole expanse of the marshy +plains. The water once in the basins, the process of evaporation was +carried on by the sun and the wind, assisted by the workmen, who agitated +the water to hasten the process. The first formation of salt was on the +surface, having a white, creamy appearance, exhaling an agreeable perfume, +resembling that of violets. This was the finest and most delicate salt, +while that precipitated, or falling to the bottom of the basin, was of a +darker hue. + +When the crystallization was completed, the salt was gathered up, drained, +and piled in conical heaps on the platforms or paths along the sides of the +basins. At the height of the season, which began in May and ended in +September, when the whole marsh region was covered with countless white +cones of salt, it presented an interesting picture, not unlike the tented +camp of a vast army. + +The salt was carried from the marshes on pack-horses, equipped each with a +white canvas bag, led by boys either to the quay, where large vessels were +lying, or to small barques which could be brought at high tide, by natural +or artificial inlets, into the very heart of the marsh-fields. + +When the period for removing the salt came, no time was to be lost, as a +sudden fall of rain might destroy in an hour the products of a month. A +small quantity only could be transported at a time, and consequently great +numbers of animals were employed, which were made to hasten over the +sinuous and angulated paths at their highest speed. On reaching the ships, +the burden was taken by men stationed for the purpose, the boys mounted in +haste, and galloped back for another. + +The scene presented in the labyrinth of an extensive salt-marsh was lively +and entertaining. The picturesque dress of the workmen, with their clean +white frocks and linen tights; the horses in great numbers mantled in their +showy salt-bags, winding their way on the narrow platforms, moving in all +directions, turning now to the right hand and now to the left, doubling +almost numberless angles, here advancing and again retreating, often going +two leagues to make the distance of one, maintaining order in apparent +confusion, altogether presented to the distant observer the aspect of a +grand equestrian masquerade. + +The extent of the works and the labor and capital invested in them were +doubtless large for that period. A contemporary of Champlain informs us +that the wood employed in the construction of the works, in the form of +gigantic sluices, bridges, beam-partitions, and sieves, was so vast in +quantity that, if it were destroyed, the forests of Guienne would not +suffice to replace it. He also adds that no one who had seen the salt works +of Saintonge would estimate the expense of forming them less than that of +building the city of Paris itself. + +The port of Brouage was the busy mart from which the salt of Saintonge was +distributed not only along the coast of France, but in London and Antwerp, +and we know not what other markets on the continent of Europe. [9] + +The early years of Champlain were of necessity intimately associated with +the stirring scenes thus presented in this prosperous little seaport. As we +know that he was a careful observer, endowed by nature with an active +temperament and an unusual degree of practical sense we are sure that no +event escaped his attention, and that no mystery was permitted to go +unsolved. The military and commercial enterprise of the place brought him +into daily contact with men of the highest character in their departments. +The salt-factors of Brouage were persons of experience and activity, who +knew their business, its methods, and the markets at home and abroad. The +fortress was commanded by distinguished officers of the French army, and +was a rendezvous of the young nobility; like other similar places, a +training-school for military command. In this association, whether near or +remote, young Champlain, with his eagle eye and quick ear, was receiving +lessons and influences which were daily shaping his unfolding capacities, +and gradually compacting and crystallizing them into the firmness and +strength of character which he so largely displayed in after years. His +education, such as it was, was of course obtained during this period. He +has himself given us no intimation of its character or extent. A careful +examination of his numerous writings will, however, render it obvious that +it was limited and rudimentary, scarcely extending beyond the fundamental +branches which were then regarded as necessary in the ordinary transactions +of business. As the result of instruction or association with educated men, +he attained to a good general knowledge of the French language, but was +never nicely accurate or eminently skilful in its use. He evidently gave +some attention in his early years to the study and practice of drawing. +While the specimens of his work that have come down to us are marked by +grave defects, he appears nevertheless to have acquired facility and some +skill in the art, which he made exceedingly useful in the illustration of +his discoveries in the new world. + +During Champlain's youth and the earlier years of his manhood, he appears +to have been engaged in practical navigation. In his address to the Queen +[10] he says, "this is the art which in my early years won my love, and has +induced me to expose myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of +the ocean." That he began the practice of navigation at an early period may +likewise be inferred from the fact that in 1599 he was put in command of a +large French ship of 500 tons, which had been chartered by the Spanish +authorities for a voyage to the West Indies, of which we shall speak more +particularly in the sequel. It is obvious that he could not have been +intrusted with a command so difficult and of so great responsibility +without practical experience in navigation; and, as it will appear +hereafter that he was in the army several years during the civil war, +probably from 1592 to 1598, his experience in navigation must have been +obtained anterior to that, in the years of his youth and early manhood. + +Brouage offered an excellent opportunity for such an employment. Its port +was open to the commerce of foreign nations, and a large number of vessels, +as we have already seen, was employed in the yearly distribution of the +salt of Saintonge, not only in the seaport towns of France, but in England +and on the Continent. In these coasting expeditions, Champlain was +acquiring skill in navigation which was to be of very great service to him +in his future career, and likewise gathering up rich stores of experience, +coming in contact with a great variety of men, observing their manners and +customs, and quickening and strengthening his natural taste for travel and +adventure. It is not unlikely that he was, at least during some of these +years, employed in the national marine, which was fully employed in +guarding the coast against foreign invasion, and in restraining the power +of the Huguenots, who were firmly seated at Rochelle with a sufficient +naval force to give annoyance to their enemies along the whole western +coast of France. + +In 1592, or soon after that date, Champlain was appointed quarter-master in +the royal army in Brittany, discharging the office several years, until, by +the peace of Vervins, in 1598, the authority of Henry IV. was firmly +established throughout the kingdom. This war in Brittany constituted the +closing scene of that mighty struggle which had been agitating the nation, +wasting its resources and its best blood for more than half a century. It +began in its incipient stages as far back as a decade following 1530, when +the preaching of Calvin in the Kingdom of Navarre began to make known his +transcendent power. The new faith, which was making rapid strides in other +countries, easily awakened the warm heart and active temperament of the +French. The principle of private judgment which lies at the foundation of +Protestant teaching, its spontaneity as opposed to a faith imposed by +authority, commended it especially to the learned and thoughtful, while the +same principle awakened the quick and impulsive nature of the masses. The +effort to put down the movement by the extermination of those engaged in +it, proved not only unsuccessful, but recoiled, as usual in such cases, +upon the hand that struck the blow. Confiscations, imprisonments, and the +stake daily increased the number of those which these severe measures were +intended to diminish. It was impossible to mark its progress. When at +intervals all was calm and placid on the surface, at the same time, down +beneath, where the eye of the detective could not penetrate, in the closet +of the scholar and at the fireside of the artisan and the peasant, the new +gospel, silently and without observation, was spreading like an +all-pervading leaven. [11] + +In 1562, the repressed forces of the Huguenots could no longer be +restrained, and, bursting forth, assumed the form of organized civil war. +With the exception of temporary lulls, originating in policy or exhaustion, +there was no cessation of arms until 1598. Although it is usually and +perhaps best described as a religious war, the struggle was not altogether +between the Catholic and the Huguenot or Protestant. There were many other +elements that came in to give their coloring to the contest, and especially +to determine the course and policy of individuals. + +The ultra-Catholic desired to maintain the old faith with all its ancient +prestige and power, and to crush out and exclude every other. With this +party were found the court, certain ambitious and powerful families, and +nearly all the officials of the church. In close alliance with it were the +Roman Pontiff, the King of Spain, and the Catholic princes of Germany. + +The Huguenots desired what is commonly known as liberty of conscience; +or, in other words, freedom to worship God according to their own views +of the truth, without interference or restriction. And in close alliance +with them were the Queen of England and the Protestant princes of +Germany. + +Personal motives, irrespective of principle, united many persons and +families with either of these great parties which seemed most likely to +subserve their private ambitions. The feudal system was nearly extinct in +form, but its spirit was still alive. The nobles who had long held sway in +some of the provinces of France desired to hold them as distinct and +separate governments, and to transmit them as an inheritance to their +children. This motive often determined their political association. + +During the most of the period of this long civil war, Catherine de Médicis +[12] was either regent or in the exercise of a controlling influence in the +government of France. She was a woman of commanding person and +extraordinary ability, skilful in intrigue, without conscience and without +personal religion. She hesitated at no crime, however black, if through it +she could attain the objects of her ambition. Neither of her three sons, +Francis, Charles, and Henry, who came successively to the throne, left any +legal heir to succeed him. The succession became, therefore, at an early +period, a question of great interest. If not the potent cause, it was +nevertheless intimately connected with most of the bloodshed of that bloody +period. + +A solemn league was entered into by a large number of the ultra-Catholic +nobles to secure two avowed objects, the succession of a Catholic prince to +the throne, and the utter extermination of the Huguenots. Henry, King of +Navarre, afterwards Henry IV. of France, admitted to be the legal heir to +the throne, was a Protestant, and therefore by the decree of the League +disqualified to succeed. Around his standard, the Huguenots rallied in +great numbers. With him were associated the princes of Condé, of royal +blood, and many other distinguished nobles. They contended for the double +purpose of securing the throne to its rightful heir and of emancipating and +establishing the Protestant faith. + +But there was another class, acting indeed with one or the other of these +two great parties, nevertheless influenced by very different motives. It +was composed of moderate Catholics, who cared little for the political +schemes and civil power of the Roman Pontiff, who dreaded the encroachments +of the King of Spain, who were firmly patriotic and desired the +aggrandizement and glory of France. + +The ultra-Catholic party was, for a long period, by far the most numerous +and the more powerful; but the Huguenots were sufficiently strong to keep +up the struggle with varying success for nearly forty years. + +After the alliance of Henry of Navarre with Henry III. against the League, +the moderate Catholics and the Huguenots were united and fought together +under the royal standard until the close of the war in 1598. + +Champlain was personally engaged in the war in Brittany for several years. +This province on the western coast of France, constituting a tongue of land +jutting out as it were into the sea, isolated and remote from the great +centres of the war, was among the last to surrender to the arms of Henry +IV. The Huguenots had made but little progress within its borders. The Duke +de Mercoeur [13] had been its governor for sixteen years, and had bent all +his energies to separate it from France, organize it into a distinct +kingdom, and transmit its sceptre to his own family. + +Champlain informs us that he was quarter-master in the army of the king +under Marshal d'Aumont, de Saint Luc, and Marshal de Brissac, distinguished +officers of the French army, who had been successively in command in that +province for the purpose of reducing it into obedience to Henry IV. + +Marshal d'Aumont [14] took command of the army in Brittany in 1592. He was +then seventy years of age, an able and patriotic officer, a moderate +Catholic, and an uncompromising foe of the League. He had expressed his +sympathy for Henry IV. a long time before the death of Henry III., and when +that event occurred he immediately espoused the cause of the new monarch, +and was at once appointed to the command of one of the three great +divisions of the French army. He received a wound at the siege of the +Château de Camper, in Brittany, of which he died on the 19th of August, +1595. + +De Saint Luc, already in the service in Brittany, as lieutenant-general +under D'Aumont, continued, after the death of that officer, in sole +command. [15] He raised the siege of the Château de Camper after the death +of his superior, and proceeded to capture several other posts, marching +through the lower part of the province, repressing the license of the +soldiery, and introducing order and discipline. On the 5th of September, +1596, he was appointed grand-master of the artillery of France, which +terminated his special service in Brittany. + +The king immediately appointed in his place Marshal de Brissac, [16] an +officer of broad experience, who added other great qualities to those of an +able soldier. No distinguished battles signalized the remaining months of +the civil war in this province. The exhausted resources and faltering +courage of the people could no longer be sustained by the flatteries or +promises of the Duke de Mercoeur. Wherever the squadrons of the marshal +made their appearance the flag of truce was raised, and town, city, and +fortress vied with each other in their haste to bring their ensigns and lay +them at his feet. + +On the seventh of June, 1598, the peace of Vervins was published in Paris, +and the kingdom of France was a unit, with the general satisfaction of all +parties, under the able, wise, and catholic sovereign, Henry the Fourth. +[17] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. The following from Marshal de Montluc refers to Brouage in 1568. + Speaking of the Huguenots he says:--"Or ils n'en pouvoient choisir un + plus à leur advantage, que celui de la Rochelle, duquel dépend celui de + Brouage, qui est le plus beau port de mer de la France." _Commentaires_, + Paris, 1760, Tom. III., p. 340. + +2. "La Riviere Puitaillé qui en étoit Gouverneur, fut chargé de faire + travailler aux fortifications. Belarmat, Bephano, Castritio d'Urbin, & + le Cavalier Orlogio, tous Ingénieurs Italiens, présiderent aux + travaux."--_Histoire La Rochelle_, par Arcere, à la Rochelle, 1756, Tom. + I., p. 121. + +3. _Histioire de la Saintonge et de l'Aunis_, 1152-1548, par M. D. Massion, + Paris. 1838, Vol. II., p. 406. + +4. The King of Navarre "sent for Monsieur _de Mirabeau_ under colour of + treating with him concerning other businesses, and forced him to deliver + up Brouage into his hands, a Fort of great importance, as well for that + it lies upon the Coast of the Ocean-sea, as because it abounds with such + store of salt-pits, which yeeld a great and constant revenue; he made + the Sieur de Montaut Governour, and put into it a strong Garrison of his + dependents, furnishing it with ammunition, and fortifying it with + exceeding diligence."--_His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino + Davila, London, 1647, p. 455. + +5. "The Duke of Mayenne, having without difficulty taken Thone-Charente, + and Marans, had laid siege to Brouage, a place, for situation, strength, + and the profit of the salt-pits, of very great importance; when the + Prince of Condé, having tryed all possible means to relieve the + besieged, the Hugonots after some difficulty were brought into such a + condition, that about the end of August they delivered it up, saving + only the lives of the Souldiers and inhabitants, which agreement the + Duke punctually observed."--_His. Civ. Warres_, by Davila, London, 1647, + p. 472. See also _Memoirs of Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p. 69. + + "_Le Jeudi_ XXVIII _Mars_. Fut tenu Conseil au Cabinet de la Royne mère + du Roy [pour] aviser ce que M. du _Maine_ avoit à faire, & j'ai mis en + avant l'enterprise de _Brouage_."--_Journal de Henri III_., Paris, 1744, + Tom. III., p. 220. + +6. "The Prince of Condé resolved to besiege Brouage, wherein was the Sieur + _de St. Luc_, one of the League, with no contemptible number of infantry + and some other gentlemen of the Country. The Rochellers consented to + this Enterprise, both for their profit, and reputation which redounded + by it; and having sent a great many Ships thither, besieged the Fortress + by Sea, whilst the Prince having possessed that passage which is the + only way to Brouage by land, and having shut up the Defendants within + the circuit of their walls, straightned the Siege very closely on that + side."--_Davila_, p. 582. See also, _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. IX., p. 383. + + The blocking up the harbor at this time appears to have been more + effective than convenient. Twenty boats or rafts filled with earth and + stone were sunk with a purpose of destroying the harbor. De Saint Luc, + the governor, succeeded in removing only four or five. The entrance for + vessels afterward remained difficult except at high tide. Subsequently + Cardinal de Richelieu expended a hundred thousand francs to remove the + rest, but did not succeed in removing one of them.--_Vide Histoire de La + Rochelle_, par Arcere, Tom I. p. 121. + +7. The Prince of Condé. "Leaving Monsieur de St. Mesmes with the Infantry + and Artillery at the Siege of Brouage, and giving order that the Fleet + should continue to block it up by sea, he departed upon the eight of + October to relieve the Castle of Angiers with 800 Gentlemen and 1400 + Harquebuziers on horseback."--_Davila_, p. 583. See also _Memoirs of + Sully_, Phila., 1817, Vol. I., p 123; _Histoire de Thou_, à Londres, + 1734, Tom. IX, p. 385. + +8. "_St. Luc_ sallying out of Brouage, and following those that were + scattered severall wayes, made a great slaughter of them in many places; + whereupon the Commander, despairing to rally the Army any more, got away + as well as they could possibly, to secure their own strong holds."-- + _His. Civ. Warres of France_, by Henrico Caterino Davila, London, 1647, + p 588. + +9. An old writer gives us some idea of the vast quantities of salt exported + from France by the amount sent to a single country. + + "Important denique sexies mille vel circiter centenarios salis, quorum + singuli constant centenis modiis, ducentenas ut minimum & vicenas + quinas, vel & tricenas, pro salis ipsius candore puritateque, libras + pondo pendentibus, sena igitur libras centenariorum millia, computatis + in singulos aureis nummis tricenis, centum & octoginta reserunt aureorum + millia."--_Belguae Descrtptio_, a Lud. Gvicciardino, Amstelodami, 1652, + p. 244. + + TRANSLATION.--They import in fine 6000 centenarii of salt, each one of + which contains 100 bushels, weighing at least 225 or 230 pounds, + according to the purity and whiteness of the salt; therefore six + thousand centenarii, computing each at thirty golden nummi, amount to + 180,000 aurei. + + It may not be easy to determine the value of this importation in money, + since the value of gold is constantly changing, but the quantity + imported may be readily determined, which was according to the above + statement, 67,500 tons. + + A treaty of April 30, 1527, between Francis I. of France and Henry VIII. + of England, provided as follows:--"And, besides, should furnish unto the + said _Henry_, as long as hee lived, yearly, of the Salt of _Brouage_, + the value of fifteene thousand Crownes."--_Life and Raigne of Henry + VIII._, by Lord Herbert of Cherbury, London, 1649, p. 206. + + Saintonge continued for a long time to be the source of large exports of + salt. De Witt, writing about the year 1658, says they received in + Holland of "salt, yearly, the lading of 500 or 600 ships, exported from + Rochel, Maran, Brouage, the Island of Oleron, and Ree."--_Republick of + Holland_, by John De Witt, London, 1702, p. 271. But it no longer holds + the pre-eminence which it did three centuries ago. Saintonge long since + yielded the palm to Brittany. + +10. Vide _Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed, Tom. III. p. v. + +11. In 1558, it was estimated that there were already 400,000 persons in + France who were declared adherents of the Reformation.--_Ranke's Civil + Wars in France_, Vol. I., p. 234. + + "Although our assemblies were most frequently held in the depth of + midnight, and our enemies very often heard us passing through the + street, yet so it was, that God bridled them in such manner that we + were preserved under His protection."--_Bernard Palissy_, 1580. Vide + _Morlay's Life of Palissy_, Vol. II., p. 274. + + When Henry IV. besieged Paris, its population was more than 200,000.-- + _Malte-Brun_. + +12. "Catherine de Médicis was of a large and, at the same time, firm and + powerful figure, her countenance had an olive tint, and her prominent + eyes and curled lip reminded the spectator of her great uncle, Leo X" + --_Civil Wars in France_, by Leopold Ranke, London, 1852, p 28. + +13. Philippe Emanuel de Lorraine, Duc de Mercoeur, born at Nomény, + September 9, 1558, was the son of Nicolas, Count de Vaudemont, by his + second wife, Jeanne de Savoy, and was half-brother of Queen Louise, the + wife of Henry III. He was made governor of Brittany in 1582. He + embraced the party of the League before the death of Henry III., + entered into an alliance with Philip II., and gave the Spaniards + possession of the port of Blavet in 1591. He made his submission to + Henry IV. in 1598, on which occasion his only daughter Françoise, + probably the richest heiress in the kingdom, was contracted in marriage + to César, Duc de Vendôme, the illegitimate son of Henry IV. by + Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duchess de Beaufort. The Duc de Mercoeur died + at Nuremburg, February 19, 1602.--_Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen + Elizabeth_, Vol. I., p. 82; _Davila's His. Civil Warres of France_, p. + 1476. + +14. Jean d'Aumont, born in 1522, a Marshal of France who served under + six kings, Francis I., Henry II., Francis II., Charles IX., Henry + III., and Henry IV. He distinguished himself at the battles of + Dreux, Saint-Denis, Montcontour, and in the famous siege of + Rochelle in 1573. After the death of Henry III., he was the first + to recognize Henry IV., whom he served with the same zeal as he + had his five predecessors He took part in the brilliant battle of + Arques in 1589. In the following year, he so distinguished himself + at Ivry that Henry IV., inviting him to sup with him after this + memorable battle, addressed to him these flattering words, "Il est + juste que vous soyez du festin, après m'avoir si bien servi à mes + noces." At the siege of the Château de Camper, in Upper Brittany, + he received a musket shot which fractured his arm, and died of the + wound on the 19th of August, 1595, at the age of seventy-three + years. "Ce grand capitaine qui avoit si bien mérité du Roi et de + la nation, emporta dans le tombeau les regrets des Officiers & des + soldats, qui pleurerent amérement la perte de leur Général. La + Bretagne qui le regardoit comme son père, le Roi, tout le Royaume + enfin, furent extrêmement touchez de sa mort. Malgré la haine + mutuelle des factions qui divisoient la France, il étoit si estimé + dans les deux partis, que s'il se fût agi de trouver un chevalier + François sans reproche, tel que nos peres en ont autrefois eu, + tout le monde auroit jette les yeux sur d'Aumont."--_Histoire + Universelle de Jacque-Auguste de Thou_, à Londres, 1734, + Tom. XII., p. 446--_Vide_ also, _Larousse; Camden's His. Queen + Elizabeth_, London, 1675 pp 486,487, _Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, pp. 122, 210; _Oeuvres de Brantôme_, Tom. IV., + pp. 46-49; _Histoire de Bretagne_, par M. Daru, Paris, 1826, + Vol. III. p. 319; _Freer's His. Henry IV._, Vol. II, p. 70. + +15. François d'Espinay de Saint-Luc, sometimes called _Le Brave Saint + Luc_, was born in 1554, and was killed at the battle of Amiens on + the 8th of September, 1597. He was early appointed governor of + Saintonge, and of the Fortress of Brouage, which he successfully + defended in 1585 against the attack of the King of Navarre and the + Prince de Condé. He assisted at the battle of Coutras in 1587. He + served as a lieutenant-general in Brittany from 1592 to 1596. In + 1594, he planned with Brissac, his brother-in-law, then governor + of Paris for the League, for the surrender of Paris to Henry + IV. For this he was offered the baton of a Marshal of France by + the king, which he modestly declined, and begged that it might be + given to Brissac. In 1578, through the influence or authority of + Henry III., he married the heiress, Jeanne de Cosse-Brissac, + sister of Charles de Cosse-Brissac, _postea_, a lady of no + personal attractions, but of excellent understanding and + character. --_Vide Courcelle's Histoire Généalogique des Pairs de + France_, Vol. II.; _Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth_, Vol. I., + pp. 163, 191; _Freer's Henry III._, p. 162; _De Mezeray's + His. France_, 1683, p. 861. + +16. Charles de Cosse-Brissac, a Marshal of France and governor of Angiers. + He was a member of the League as early as 1585. He conceived the idea + of making France a republic after the model of ancient Rome. He laid + his views before the chief Leaguers but none of them approved his plan. + He delivered up Paris, of which he was governor, to Henry IV. in 1594, + for which he received the Marshal's baton. He died in 1621, at the + siege of Saint Jean d'Angely.--_Vide Davila_, pp. 538, 584, 585; + _Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, V. 61. Vol. I., p. 420; _Brantôme_, Vol. + III., p. 84; _His. Collections_, London, 1598, p. 35; _De Thou_, à + Londres, 1724, Tome XII., p. 449. + +17. "By the Articles of this Treaty the king was to restore the County of + _Charolois_ to the king of _Spain_, to be by him held of the Crown of + _France_; who in exchange restor'd the towns of _Calice, Ardres, + Montbulin, Dourlens, la Capelle_, and _le Catelet_ in _Picardy_, and + _Blavet_ in Britanny: which Articles were Ratifi'd and Sign'd by his + Majesty the eleventh of June [1598]; who in his gayety of humour, at so + happy a conclusion, told the Duke of _Espernon, That with one dash of + his Pen he had done greater things, than he could of a long time have + perform'd with the best Swords of his Kingdom."--Life of the Duke of + Espernon_, London, 1670, p. 203; _Histoire du Roy Henry le Grand_, par + Préfixe, Paris, 1681, p. 243. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +QUARTER-MASTER.--VISIT TO WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, MEXICO.--HIS +REPORT.--SUGGESTS A SHIP CANAL.--VOYAGE OF 1603.--EARLIER VOYAGES.-- +CARTIER, DE LA ROQUE, MARQUIS DE LA ROCHE, SIEUR DE CHAUVIN, DE CHASTES. +--PRELIMINARY VOYAGE.--RETURN TO FRANCE.--DEATH OF DE CHASTES.--SIEUR DE +MONTS OBTAINS A CHARTER, AND PREPARES FOR AN EXPEDITION TO CANADA. + +The service of Champlain as quarter-master in the war in Brittany commenced +probably with the appointment of Marshal d'Aumont to the command of the +army in 1592, and, if we are right in this conjecture, it covered a period +of not far from six years. The activity of the army, and the difficulty of +obtaining supplies in the general destitution of the province, imposed upon +him constant and perplexing duty. But in the midst of his embarrassments he +was gathering up valuable experience, not only relating to the conduct of +war, but to the transactions of business under a great variety of forms. He +was brought into close and intimate relations with men of character, +standing, and influence. The knowledge, discipline, and self-control of +which he was daily becoming master were unconsciously fitting him for a +career, humble though it might seem in its several stages, but nevertheless +noble and potent in its relations to other generations. + +At the close of the war, the army which it had called into existence +was disbanded, the soldiers departed to their homes, the office of +quarter-master was of necessity vacated, and Champlain was left +without employment. + +Casting about for some new occupation, following his instinctive love of +travel and adventure, he conceived the idea of attempting an exploration of +the Spanish West Indies, with the purpose of bringing back a report that +should be useful to France. But this was an enterprise not easy either to +inaugurate or carry out. The colonial establishments of Spain were at that +time hermetically sealed against all intercourse with foreign nations. +Armed ships, like watch-dogs, were ever on the alert, and foreign +merchantmen entered their ports only at the peril of confiscation. It was +necessary for Spain to send out annually a fleet, under a convoy of ships +of war, for the transportation of merchandise and supplies for the +colonies, returning laden with cargoes of almost priceless value. +Champlain, fertile in expedient, proposed to himself to visit Spain, and +there form such acquaintances and obtain such influence as would secure to +him in some way a passage to the Indies in this annual expedition. + +The Spanish forces, allies of the League in the late war, had not yet +departed from the coast of France. He hastened to the port of Blavet, [18] +where they were about to embark, and learned to his surprise and +gratification that several French ships had been chartered, and that his +uncle, a distinguished French mariner, commonly known as the _Provençal +Cappitaine_, had received orders from Marshal de Brissac to conduct the +fleet, on which the garrison of Blavet was embarked, to Cadiz in Spain. +Champlain easily arranged to accompany his uncle, who was in command of the +"St. Julian," a strong, well-built ship of five hundred tons. + +Having arrived at Cadiz, and the object of the voyage having been +accomplished, the French ships were dismissed, with the exception of the +"St. Julian," which was retained, with the Provincial Captain, who had +accepted the office of pilot-general for that year, in the service of the +King of Spain. + +After lingering a month at Cadiz, they proceeded to St. Lucar de Barameda, +where Champlain remained three months, agreeably occupied in making +observations and drawings of both city and country, including a visit to +Seville, some fifty miles in the interior. + +In the mean time, the fleet for the annual visit to the West Indies, to +which we have already alluded, was fitting out at Saint Lucar, and about to +sail under the command of Don Francisco Colombo, who, attracted by the size +and good sailing qualities of the "Saint Julian," chartered her for the +voyage. The services of the pilot-general were required in another +direction, and, with the approbation of Colombo, he gave the command of the +"Saint Julian" to Champlain. Nothing could have been more gratifying than +this appointment, which assured to Champlain a visit to the more important +Spanish colonies under the most favorable circumstances. + +He accordingly set sail with the fleet, which left Saint Lucar at the +beginning of January, 1599. + +Passing the Canaries, in two months and six days they sighted the little +island of Deseada, [19] the _vestibule_ of the great Caribbean +archipelago, touched at Guadaloupe, wound their way among the group called +the Virgins, turning to the south made for Margarita, [20] then famous for +its pearl fisheries, and from thence sailed to St. Juan de Porto-rico. Here +the fleet was divided into three squadrons. One was to go to Porto-bello, +on the Isthmus of Panama, another to the coast of South America, then +called Terra Firma, and the third to Mexico, then known as New Spain. This +latter squadron, to which Champlain was attached, coasted along the +northern shore of the island of Saint Domingo, otherwise Hispaniola, +touching at Porto Platte, Mancenilla, Mosquitoes, Monte Christo, and Saint +Nicholas. Skirting the southern coast of Cuba, reconnoitring the Caymans, +[21] they at length cast anchor in the harbor of San Juan d'Ulloa, the +island fortress near Vera Cruz. While here, Champlain made an inland +journey to the City of Mexico, where he remained a month. He also sailed in +a _patache_, or advice-boat, to Porto-bello, when, after a month, he +returned again to San Juan d'Ulloa. The squadron then sailed for Havana, +from which place Champlain was commissioned to visit, on public business, +Cartagena, within the present limits of New Grenada, on the coast of South +America. The whole _armada_ was finally collected together at Havana, +and from thence took its departure for Spain, passing through the channel +of Bahama, or Gulf of Florida, sighting Bermuda and the Azores, reaching +Saint Lucar early in March, 1601, after an absence from that port of two +years and two months. [22] + +On Champlain's return to France, he prepared an elaborate report of his +observations and discoveries, luminous with sixty-two illustrations +sketched by his own hand. As it was his avowed purpose in making the voyage +to procure information that should be valuable to his government, he +undoubtedly communicated it in some form to Henry IV. The document remained +in manuscript two hundred and fifty-seven years, when it was first printed +at London in an English translation by the Hakluyt Society, in 1859. It is +an exceedingly interesting and valuable tract, containing a lucid +description of the peculiarities, manners, and customs of the people, the +soil, mountains, and rivers, the trees, fruits, and plants, the animals, +birds, and fishes, the rich mines found at different points, with frequent +allusions to the system of colonial management, together with the character +and sources of the vast wealth which these settlements were annually +yielding to the Spanish crown. + +The reader of this little treatise will not fail to see the drift and +tendency of Champlain's mind and character unfolded on nearly every page. +His indomitable perseverance, his careful observation, his honest purpose +and amiable spirit are at all times apparent. Although a Frenchman, a +foreigner, and an entire stranger in the Spanish fleet, he had won the +confidence of the commander so completely, that he was allowed by special +permission to visit the City of Mexico, the Isthmus of Panama, and the +coast of South America, all of which were prominent and important centres +of interest, but nevertheless lying beyond the circuit made by the squadron +to which he was attached. + +For the most part, Champlain's narrative of what he saw and of what he +learned from others is given in simple terms, without inference or comment. + +His views are, however, clearly apparent in his description of the Spanish +method of converting the Indians by the Inquisition, reducing them to +slavery or the horrors of a cruel death, together with the retaliation +practised by their surviving comrades, resulting in a milder method. This +treatment of the poor savages by their more savage masters Champlain +illustrates by a graphic drawing, in which two stolid Spaniards are +guarding half a dozen poor wretches who are burning for their faith. In +another drawing he represents a miserable victim receiving, under the eye +and direction of the priest, the blows of an uplifted baton, as a penalty +for not attending church. + +Champlain's forecast and fertility of mind may be clearly seen in his +suggestion that a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Panama would be a work +of great practical utility, saving, in the voyage to the Pacific side of +the Isthmus, a distance of more than fifteen hundred leagues. [23] + +As it was the policy of Spain to withhold as much as possible all knowledge +of her colonial system and wealth in the West Indies, we may add, that +there is probably no work extant, on this subject, written at that period, +so full, impartial, and truthful as this tract by Champlain. It was +undoubtedly written out from notes and sketches made on the spot, and +probably occupied the early part of the two years that followed his return +from this expedition, during which period we are not aware that he entered +upon any other important enterprise. [24] + +This tour among the Spanish colonies, and the description which Champlain +gave of them, information so much desired and yet so difficult to obtain, +appear to have made a strong and favorable impression upon the mind of +Henry IV., whose quick comprehension of the character of men was one of the +great qualities of this distinguished sovereign. He clearly saw that +Champlain's character was made up of those elements which are indispensable +in the servants of the executive will. He accordingly assigned him a +pension to enable him to reside near his person, and probably at the same +time honored him with a place within the charmed circle of the nobility. +[25] + +While Champlain was residing at court, rejoicing doubtless in his new +honors and full of the marvels of his recent travels, he formed the +acquaintance, or perhaps renewed an old one, with Commander de Chastes, +[26] for many years governor of Dieppe, who had given a long life to the +service of his country, both by sea [27] and by land, and was a warm and +attached friend of Henry IV. The enthusiasm of the young voyager and the +long experience of the old commander made their interviews mutually +instructive and entertaining. De Chastes had observed and studied with +great interest the recent efforts at colonization on the coast of North +America. His zeal had been kindled and his ardor deepened doubtless by the +glowing recitals of his young friend. It was easy for him to believe that +France, as well as Spain, might gather in the golden fruits of +colonization. The territory claimed by France was farther to the north, in +climate and in sources of wealth widely different, and would require a +different management. He had determined, therefore, to send out an +expedition for the purpose of obtaining more definite information than he +already possessed, with the view to surrender subsequently his government +of Dieppe, take up his abode in the new world, and there dedicate his +remaining years to the service of God and his king. He accordingly obtained +a commission from the king, associating with himself some of the principal +merchants of Rouen and other cities, and made preparations for despatching +a pioneer fleet to reconnoitre and fix upon a proper place for settlement, +and to determine what equipment would be necessary for the convenience and +comfort of the colony. He secured the services of Pont Gravé, [28] a +distinguished merchant and Canadian fur-trader, to conduct the expedition. +Having laid his views open fully to Champlain, he invited him also to join +the exploring party, as he desired the opinion and advice of so careful an +observer as to a proper plan of future operations. + +No proposition could have been more agreeable to Champlain than this, and +he expressed himself quite ready for the enterprise, provided De Chastes +would secure the consent of the king, to whom he was under very great +obligations. De Chastes readily obtained the desired permission, coupled, +however, with an order from the king to Champlain to bring back to him a +faithful report of the voyage. Leaving Paris, Champlain hastened to +Honfleur, armed with a letter of instructions from M. de Gesures, the +secretary of the king, to Pont Gravé, directing him to receive Champlain +and afford him every facility for seeing and exploring the country which +they were about to visit. They sailed for the shores of the New World on +the 15th of March, 1603. + +The reader should here observe that anterior to this date no colonial +settlement had been made on the northern coasts of America. These regions +had, however, been frequented by European fishermen at a very early period, +certainly within the decade after its discovery by John Cabot in 1497. But +the Basques, Bretons, and Normans, [29] who visited these coasts, were +intent upon their employment, and consequently brought home only meagre +information of the country from whose shores they yearly bore away rich +cargoes of fish. + +The first voyage made by the French for the purpose of discovery in our +northern waters of which we have any authentic record was by Jacques +Cartier in 1534, and another was made for the same purpose by this +distinguished navigator in 1535. In the former, he coasted along the shores +of Newfoundland, entered and gave its present name to the Bay of Chaleur, +and at Gaspé took formal possession of the country in the name of the king. +In the second, he ascended the St. Lawrence as far as Montreal, then an +Indian village known by the aborigines as Hochelaga, situated on an island +at the base of an eminence which they named _Mont-Royal_, from which the +present commercial metropolis of the Dominion derives its name. After a +winter of great suffering, which they passed on the St. Charles, near +Quebec, and the death of many of his company, Cartier returned to France +early in the summer of 1536. In 1541, he made a third voyage, under the +patronage of François de la Roque, Lord de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy. +He sailed up the St. Lawrence, anchoring probably at the mouth of the river +Cap Rouge, about four leagues above Quebec, where he built a fort which he +named _Charlesbourg-Royal_. Here he passed another dreary and disheartening +winter, and returned to France in the spring of 1542. His patron, De +Roberval, who had failed to fulfil his intention to accompany him the +preceding year, met him at St. John, Newfoundland. In vain Roberval urged +and commanded him to retrace his course; but the resolute old navigator had +too recent an experience and saw too clearly the inevitable obstacles to +success in their undertaking to be diverted from his purpose. Roberval +proceeded up the Saint Lawrence, apparently to the fort just abandoned by +Cartier, which he repaired and occupied the next winter, naming it +_Roy-Francois_; [30] but the disasters which followed, the sickness and +death of many of his company, soon forced him, likewise, to abandon the +enterprise and return to France. + +Of these voyages, Cartier, or rather his pilot-general, has left full and +elaborate reports, giving interesting and detailed accounts of the mode of +life among the aborigines, and of the character and products of the +country. + +The entire want of success in all these attempts, and the absorbing and +wasting civil wars in France, paralyzed the zeal and put to rest all +aspirations for colonial adventure for more than half a century. + +But in 1598, when peace again began to dawn upon the nation, the spirit of +colonization revived, and the Marquis de la Roche, a nobleman of Brittany, +obtained a royal commission with extraordinary and exclusive powers of +government and trade, identical with those granted to Roberval nearly sixty +years before. Having fitted out a vessel and placed on board forty convicts +gathered out of the prisons of France, he embarked for the northern coasts +of America. The first land he made was Sable Island, a most forlorn +sand-heap rising out of the Atlantic Ocean, some thirty leagues southeast +of Cape Breton. Here he left these wretched criminals to be the strength +and hope, the bone and sinew of the little kingdom which, in his fancy, he +pictured to himself rising under his fostering care in the New World. While +reconnoitring the mainland, probably some part of Nova Scotia, for the +purpose of selecting a suitable location for his intended settlement, a +furious gale swept him from the coast, and, either from necessity or +inclination, he returned to France, leaving his hopeful colonists to a fate +hardly surpassed by that of Selkirk himself, and at the same time +dismissing the bright visions that had so long haunted his mind, of +personal aggrandizement at the head of a colonial establishment. + +The next year, 1599, Sieur de Saint Chauvin, of Normandy, a captain in the +royal marine, at the suggestion of Pont Gravé, of Saint Malo, an +experienced fur-trader, to whom we have already referred, and who had made +several voyages to the northwest anterior to this, obtained a commission +sufficiently comprehensive, amply providing for a colonial settlement and +the propagation of the Christian faith, with, indeed, all the privileges +accorded by that of the Marquis de la Roche. But the chief and present +object which Chauvin and Pont Gravé hoped to attain was the monopoly of the +fur trade, which they had good reason to believe they could at that time +conduct with success. Under this commission, an expedition was accordingly +fitted out and sailed for Tadoussac. Successful in its main object, with a +full cargo of valuable furs, they returned to France in the autumn, +leaving, however, sixteen men, some of whom perished during the winter, +while the rest were rescued from the same fate by the charity of the +Indians. In the year 1600, Chauvin made another voyage, which was equally +remunerative, and a third had been projected on a much broader scale, when +his death intervened and prevented its execution. + +The death of Sieur de Chauvin appears to have vacated his commission, at +least practically, opening the way for another, which was obtained by the +Commander de Chastes, whose expedition, accompanied by Champlain, as we +have already seen, left Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. It consisted +of two barques of twelve or fifteen tons, one commanded by Pont Gravé, and +the other by Sieur Prevert, of Saint Malo, and was probably accompanied by +one or more advice-boats. They took with them two Indians who had been in +France some time, doubtless brought over by De Chauvin on his last voyage. +With favoring winds, they soon reached the banks of Newfoundland, sighted +Cape Ray, the northern point of the Island of Cape Breton, Anticosti and +Gaspé, coasting along the southern side of the river Saint Lawrence as far +as the Bic, where, crossing over to the northern shore, they anchored in +the harbor of Tadoussac. After reconnoitring the Saguenay twelve or fifteen +leagues, leaving their vessels at Tadoussac, where an active fur trade was +in progress with the Indians, they proceeded up the St. Lawrence in a light +boat, passed Quebec, the Three Rivers, Lake St. Peter, the Richelieu, which +they called the river of the Iroquois, making an excursion up this stream +five or six leagues, and then, continuing their course, passing Montreal, +they finally cast anchor on the northern side, at the foot of the Falls of +St. Louis, not being able to proceed further in their boat. + +Having previously constructed a skiff for the purpose, Pont Gravé and +Champlain, with five sailors and two Indians with a canoe, attempted to +pass the falls. But after a long and persevering trial, exploring the +shores on foot for some miles, they found any further progress quite +impossible with their present equipment. They accordingly abandoned the +undertaking and set out on their return to Tadoussac. They made short stops +at various points, enabling Champlain to pursue his investigations with +thoroughness and deliberation. He interrogated the Indians as to the course +and extent of the St. Lawrence, as well as that of the other large rivers, +the location of the lakes and falls, and the outlines and general features +of the country, making rude drawings or maps to illustrate what the Indians +found difficult otherwise to explain. [31] + +The savages also exhibited to them specimens of native copper, which they +represented as having been obtained from the distant north, doubtless from +the neighborhood of Lake Superior. On reaching Tadoussac, they made another +excursion in one of the barques as far as Gaspé, observing the rivers, +bays, and coves along the route. When they had completed their trade with +the Indians and had secured from them a valuable collection of furs, they +commenced their return voyage to France, touching at several important +points, and obtaining from the natives some general hints in regard to the +existence of certain mines about the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +Before leaving, one of the Sagamores placed his son in charge of Pont +Gravé, that he might see the wonders of France, thus exhibiting a +commendable appreciation of the advantages of foreign travel. They also +obtained the gift of an Iroquois woman, who had been taken in war, and was +soon to be immolated as one of the victims at a cannibal feast. Besides +these, they took with them also four other natives, a man from the coast of +La Cadie, and a woman and two boys from Canada. + +The two little barques left Gaspé on the 24th of August; on the 5th of +September they were at the fishing stations on the Grand Banks, and on the +20th of the same month arrived at Havre de Grâce, having been absent six +months and six days. + +Champlain received on his arrival the painful intelligence that the +Commander de Chastes, his friend and patron, under whose auspices the late +expedition had been conducted, had died on the 13th of May preceding. This +event was a personal grief as well as a serious calamity to him, as it +deprived him of an intimate and valued friend, and cast a cloud over the +bright visions that floated before him of discoveries and colonies in the +New World. He lost no time in repairing to the court, where he laid before +his sovereign, Henry IV., a map constructed by his own hand of the regions +which he had just visited, together with a very particular narrative of the +voyage. + +This "petit discours," as Champlain calls it, is a clear, compact, +well-drawn paper, containing an account of the character and products of +the country, its trees, plants, fruits, and vines, with a description of +the native inhabitants, their mode of living, their clothing, food and its +preparation, their banquets, religion, and method of burying their dead, +with many other interesting particulars relating to their habits and +customs. + +Henry IV. manifested a deep interest in Champlain's narrative. He listened +to its recital with great apparent satisfaction, and by way of +encouragement promised not to abandon the undertaking, but to continue to +bestow upon it his royal favor and patronage. + +There chanced at this time to be residing at court, a Huguenot gentleman +who had been a faithful adherent of Henry IV. in the late war, Pierre du +Guast, Sieur de Monts, gentleman ordinary to the king's chamber, and +governor of Pons in Saintonge. This nobleman had made a trip for pleasure +or recreation to Canada with De Chauvin, several years before, and had +learned something of the country, and especially of the advantages of the +fur trade with the Indians. He was quite ready, on the death of De Chastes, +to take up the enterprise which, by this event, had been brought to a +sudden and disastrous termination. He immediately devised a scheme for the +establishment of a colony under the patronage of a company to be composed +of merchants of Rouen, Rochelle, and of other places, their contributions +for covering the expense of the enterprise to be supplemented, if not +rendered entirely unnecessary, by a trade in furs and peltry to be +conducted by the company. + +In less than two months after the return of the last expedition, De Monts +had obtained from Henry IV., though contrary to the advice of his most +influential minister, [32] a charter constituting him the king's lieutenant +in La Cadie, with all necessary and desirable powers for a colonial +settlement. The grant included the whole territory lying between the 4Oth +and 46th degrees of north latitude. Its southern boundary was on a parallel +of Philadelphia, while its northern was on a line extended due west from +the most easterly point of the Island of Cape Breton, cutting New Brunswick +on a parallel near Fredericton, and Canada near the junction of the river +Richelieu and the St. Lawrence. It will be observed that the parts of New +France at that time best known were not included in this grant, viz., Lake +St. Peter, Three Rivers, Quebec, Tadoussac, Gaspé, and the Bay Chaleur. +These were points of great importance, and had doubtless been left out of +the charter by an oversight arising from an almost total want of a definite +geographical knowledge of our northern coast. Justly apprehending that the +places above mentioned might not be included within the limits of his +grant, De Monts obtained, the next month, an extension of the bounds of his +exclusive right of trade, so that it should comprehend the whole region of +the gulf and river of St. Lawrence. [33] + +The following winter, 1603-4, was devoted by De Monts to organizing his +company, the collection of a suitable band of colonists, and the necessary +preparations for the voyage. His commission authorized him to seize any +idlers in the city or country, or even convicts condemned to +transportation, to make up the bone and sinew of the colony. To what extent +he resorted to this method of filling his ranks, we know not. Early in +April he had gathered together about a hundred and twenty artisans of all +trades, laborers, and soldiers, who were embarked upon two ships, one of +120 tons, under the direction of Sieur de Pont Gravé, commanded, however, +by Captain Morel, of Honfleur; another of 150 tons, on which De Monts +himself embarked with several noblemen and gentlemen, having Captain +Timothée, of Havre de Grâce, as commander. + +De Monts extended to Champlain an invitation to join the expedition, which +he readily accepted, but, nevertheless, on the condition, as in the +previous voyage, of the king's assent, which was freely granted, +nevertheless with the command that he should prepare a faithful report of +his observations and discoveries. + +ENDNOTES: + +18. Blavet was situated at the mouth of the River Blavet, on the southern + coast of Brittany. Its occupation had been granted to the Spanish by + the Duke de Mercoeur during the civil war, and, with other places held + by the Spanish, was surrendered by the treaty of Vervins, in June, + 1598. It was rebuilt and fortified by Louis XIII, and is now known as + Port Louis. + +19. _Deseada_, signifying in Spanish the desired land. + +20. _Margarita_, a Spanish word from the Greek [Greek: margaritaes], + signifying a pearl. The following account by an eye-witness will not be + uninteresting: "Especially it yieldeth store of pearls, those gems + which the Latin writers call _Uniones_, because _nulli duo reperiuntur + discreti_, they always are found to grow in couples. In this Island + there are many rich Merchants who have thirty, forty, fifty _Blackmore_ + slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rocks these pearls.... + They are let down in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under + the water, until by pulling the rope by which they are let down, they + make their sign to be taken up.... From _Margarita_ are all the Pearls + sent to be refined and bored to _Carthagena_, where is a fair and + goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearl dressers. Commonly + in the month of _July_ there is a ship or two at most ready in the + Island to carry the King's revenue, and the Merchant's pearls to + _Carthagena_. One of these ships is valued commonly at three score + thousand or four score thousand ducats and sometimes more, and + therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the _Spaniards_ much + fear our _English_ and the _Holland_ ships."--_Vide New Survey of the + West Indies_, by Thomas Gage, London, 1677, p. 174. + +21. _Caymans_, Crocodiles. + +22. For an interesting Account of the best route to and from the West + Indies in order to avoid the vigilant French and English corsairs, see + _Notes on Giovanni da Verrazano_, by J. C. Brevoort, New York, 1874, p. + 101. + +23. At the time that Champlain was at the isthmus, in 1599-1601, the gold + and silver of Peru were brought to Panama, then transported on mules a + distance of about four leagues to a river, known as the Rio Chagres, + whence they were conveyed by water first to Chagres. and thence along + the coast to Porto-bello, and there shipped to Spain. + + Champlain refers to a ship-canal in the following words: "One might + judge, if the territory four leagues in extent lying between Panama and + this river were cut through, he could pass from the south sea to that + on the other side, and thus shorten the route by more than fifteen + hundred leagues. From Panama to the Straits of Magellan would + constitute an island, and from Panama to New Foundland another, so that + the whole of America would be in two islands."--_Vide Brief Discours + des Choses Plus Rémarquables_, par Sammuel Champlain de Brovage, 1599, + Quebec ed., Vol. I. p 141. This project of a ship canal across the + isthmus thus suggested by Champlain two hundred and eighty years ago is + now attracting the public attention both in this country and in Europe. + Several schemes are on foot for bringing it to pass, and it will + undoubtedly be accomplished, if it shall be found after the most + careful and thorough investigation to be within the scope of human + power, and to offer adequate commercial advantages. + + Some of the difficulties to be overcome are suggested by Mr. Marsh in + the following excerpt-- + + "The most colossal project of canalization ever suggested, whether we + consider the physical difficulties of its execution, the magnitude and + importance of the waters proposed to be united, or the distance which + would be saved in navigation, is that of a channel between the Gulf of + Mexico and the Pacific, across the Isthmus of Darien. I do not now + speak of a lock-canal, by way of the Lake of Nicaragua, or any other + route,--for such a work would not differ essentially from other canals + and would scarcely possess a geographical character,--but of an open + cut between the two seas. The late survey by Captain Selfridge, showing + that the lowest point on the dividing ridge is 763 feet above the + sea-level, must be considered as determining in the negative the + question of the possibility of such a cut, by any means now at the + control of man; and both the sanguine expectations of benefits, and the + dreary suggestions of danger from the realization of this great dream, + may now be dismissed as equally chimerical."--_Vide The Earth as + Modified by Human Action_, by George P. Marsh, New York, 1874, p. 612. + +24. A translation of Champlain's Voyage to the West Indies and Mexico was + made by Alice Wilmere, edited by Norton Shaw, and published by the + Hakluyt Society, London, 1859. + +25. No positive evidence is known to exist as to the time when Champlain + was ennobled. It seems most likely to have been in acknowledgment of + his valuable report made to Henry IV. after his visit to the West + Indies. + +26. Amyar de Chastes died on the 13th of May, 1603, greatly respected and + beloved by his fellow-citizens. He was charged by his government with + many important and responsible duties. In 1583, he was sent by Henry + III., or rather by Catherine de Médicis, to the Azores with a military + force to sustain the claims of Antonio, the Prior of Crato, to the + throne of Portugal. He was a warm friend and supporter of Henry IV., + and took an active part in the battles of Ivry and Arques. He commanded + the French fleet on the coasts of Brittany; and, during the long + struggle of this monarch with internal enemies and external foes, he + was in frequent communication with the English to secure their + co-operation, particularly against the Spanish. He accompanied the Duke + de Boullon, the distinguished Huguenot nobleman, to England, to be + present and witness the oath of Queen Elizabeth to the treaty made with + France. + + On this occasion he received a valuable jewel as a present from the + English queen. He afterwards directed the ceremonies and entertainment + of the Earl of Shrewsbury, who was deputed to receive the ratification + of the before-mentioned treaty by Henry IV. _Vide Busk's His. Spain and + Portugal_, London, 1833, p. 129 _et passim_; _Denis' His. Portugal_, + Paris, 1846, p. 296; _Freer's Life of Henry IV._, Vol. I. p. 121, _et + passim_; _Memoirs of Sully_, Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. I. p. 204; + _Birch's Memoirs Queen Elizabeth_, London, 1754, Vol. II. pp. 121, 145, + 151, 154, 155; _Asselini MSS. Chron._, cited by Shaw in _Nar Voyage to + West Ind. and Mexico_, Hakluyt Soc., 1859, p. xv. + +27. "Au même tems les nouvelles vinrent.... que le Commandeur de Chastes + dressoit une grande Armée de Mer en Bretagne."--_Journal de Henri III._ + (1586), Paris, 1744, Tom. III. p. 279. + +28. Du Pont Gravé was a merchant of St Malo. He had been associated with + Chauvin in the Canada trade, and continued to visit the St Lawrence for + this purpose almost yearly for thirty years. + + He was greatly respected by Champlain, and was closely associated with + him till 1629. After the English captured Quebec, he appears to have + retired, forced to do so by the infirmities of age. + +29. Jean Parmentier, of Dieppe, author of the _Discorso d'un gran capitano_ + in Ramusio, Vol. III., p. 423, wrote in the year 1539, and he says the + Bretons and Normans were in our northern waters thirty-five years + before, which would be in 1504. _Vide_ Mr. Parkman's learned note and + citations in _Pioneers of France in the New World_, pp. 171, 172. The + above is doubtless the authority on which the early writers, such as + Pierre Biard, Champlain, and others, make the year 1504 the period when + the French voyages for fishing commenced. + +30. _Vide Voyage of Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne_, Hakluyt, Vol. III., p. + 293. + +31. Compare the result of these inquiries as stated by Champlain, p.252 of + this vol and _New Voyages_, by Baron La Hontan, 1684, ed. 1735, Vol I. + p. 30. + +32. The Duke of Sully's disapprobation is expressed in the following words: + "The colony that was sent to Canada this year, was among the number of + those things that had not my approbation; there was no kind of riches + to be expected from all those countries of the new world, which are + beyond the fortieth degree of latitude. His majesty gave the conduct of + this expedition to the Sieur du Mont."--_Memoirs of Sully_, + Philadelphia, 1817, Vol. III. p. 185. + +33. "Frequenter, négocier, et communiquer durant ledit temps de dix ans, + depuis le Cap de Raze jusques au quarantième degré, comprenant toute la + côte de la Cadie, terre et Cap Breton, Bayes de Sainct-Cler, de + Chaleur, Ile Percée, Gachepé, Chinschedec, Mesamichi, Lesquemin, + Tadoussac, et la rivière de Canada, tant d'un côté que d'aurre, et + toutes les Bayes et rivières qui entrent au dedans désdites côtes."-- + Extract of Commission, _Histoire de la Nouvelle-France_, par Lescarbot, + Paris, 1866, Vol. II. p. 416. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DE MONTS LEAVES FOR LA CADIE--THE COASTS OF NOVA SCOTIA.--THE BAY OF FUNDY +--SEARCH FOR COPPER MINE--CHAMPLAIN EXPLORES THE PENOBSCOT--DE MONTS'S +ISLAND--SUFFERINGS OF THE COLONY--EXPLORATION OF THE COAST AS FAR AS +NAUSET, ON CAPE COD + +De Monts, with Champlain and the other noblemen, left Havre de Grâce on the +7th April, 1604, while Pont Gravé, with the other vessel, followed three +days later, to rendezvous at Canseau. + +Taking a more southerly course than he had originally intended, De Monts +came in sight of La Hève on the 8th of May, and on the 12th entered +Liverpool harbor, where he found Captain Rossignol, of Havre de Grâce, +carrying on a contraband trade in furs with the Indians, whom he arrested, +and confiscated his vessel. + +The next day they anchored at Port Mouton, where they lingered three or +four weeks, awaiting news from Pont Gravé, who had in the mean time arrived +at Canseau, the rendezvous agreed upon before leaving France. Pont Gravé +had there discovered several Basque ships engaged in the fur-trade. Taking +possession of them, he sent their masters to De Monts. The ships were +subsequently confiscated and sent to Rochelle. + +Captain Fouques was despatched to Canseau in the vessel which had been +taken from Rossignol, to bring forward the supplies which had been brought +over by Pont Gravé. Having transshipped the provisions intended for the +colony, Pont Gravé proceeded through the Straits of Canseau up the St. +Lawrence, to trade with the Indians, upon the profits of which the company +relied largely for replenishing their treasury. + +In the mean time Champlain was sent in a barque of eight tons, with the +secretary Sieur Ralleau, Mr. Simon, the miner, and ten men, to reconnoitre +the coast towards the west. Sailing along the shore, touching at numerous +points, doubling Cape Sable, he entered the Bay of Fundy, and after +exploring St. Mary's Bay, and discovering several mines of both Silver and +iron, returned to Port Mouton and made to De Monts a minute and careful +report. + +De Monts immediately weighed anchor and sailed for the Bay of St. Mary, +where he left his vessel, and, with Champlain, the miner, and some others, +proceeded to explore the Bay of Fundy. They entered and examined Annapolis +harbor, coasted along the western shores of Nova Scotia, touching at the +Bay of Mines, passing over to New Brunswick, skirting its whole +southeastern coast, entering the harbor of St. John, and finally +penetrating Passamaquoddy Bay as far as the mouth of the river St. Croix, +and fixed upon De Monts's Island [34] as the seat of their colony. The +vessel at St. Mary's with the colonists was ordered to join them, and +immediately active measures were taken for laying out gardens, erecting +dwellings and storehouses, and all the necessary preparations for the +coming winter. Champlain was commissioned to design and lay out the town, +if so it could be called. + +When the work was somewhat advanced, he was sent in a barque of five or six +tons, manned with nine sailors, to search for a mine of pure copper, which +an Indian named Messamoüet had assured them he could point out to them on +the coast towards the river St. John. Some twenty-five miles from the river +St. Croix, they found a mine yielding eighteen per cent, as estimated by +the miner; but they did not discover any pure copper, as they had hoped. + +On the last day of August, 1604, the vessel which had brought out the +colony, together with that which had been taken from Rossignol, took their +departure for the shores of France. In it sailed Poutrincourt, Ralleau the +secretary of De Monts, and Captain Rossignol. + +From the moment of his arrival on the coast of America, Champlain employed +his leisure hours in making sketches and drawings of the most important +rivers, harbors, and Indian settlements which they had visited. + +While the little colony at De Monts's Island was active in getting its +appointments arranged and settled, De Monts wisely determined, though he +could not accompany it himself, nevertheless to send out an expedition +during the mild days of autumn, to explore the region still further to the +south, then called by the Indians Norumbegue. Greatly to the satisfaction +of Champlain, he was personally charged, with this important expedition. He +set out on the 2d of September, in a barque of seventeen or eighteen tons, +with twelve sailors and two Indian guides. The inevitable fogs of that +region detained them nearly a fortnight before they were able to leave the +banks of Passamaquoddy. Passing along the rugged shores of Maine, with its +endless chain of islands rising one after another into view, which they +called the Ranges, they at length came to the ancient Pemetiq, lying close +in to the shore, having the appearance at sea of seven or eight mountains +drawn together and springing from the same base. This Champlain named +_Monts Déserts_, which we have anglicized into Mount Desert, [35] an +appellation which has survived the vicissitudes of two hundred and +seventy-five years, and now that the island, with its salubrious air and +cool shades, its bold and picturesque scenery, is attracting thousands from +the great cities during the heats of summer, the name is likely to abide +far down into a distant and indefinite future. + +Leaving Mount Desert, winding their way among numerous islands, taking a +northerly direction, they soon entered the Penobscot, [36] known by the +early navigators as the river Norumbegue. They proceeded up the river as +far as the mouth of an affluent now known as the Kenduskeag, [37] which was +then called, or rather the place where it made a junction with the +Penobscot was called by the natives, _Kadesquit_, situated at the head of +tide-water, near the present site of the city of Bangor. The falls above +the city intercepted their further progress. The river-banks about the +harbor were fringed with a luxurious growth of forest trees. On one side, +lofty pines reared their gray trunks, forming a natural palisade along the +shore. On the other, massive oaks alone were to be seen, lifting their +sturdy branches to the skies, gathered into clumps or stretching out into +long lines, as if a landscape gardener had planted them to please the eye +and gratify the taste. An exploration revealed the whole surrounding region +clothed in a similar wild and primitive beauty. + +After a leisurely survey of the country, they returned to the mouth of the +river. Contrary to what might have been expected, Champlain found scarcely +any inhabitants dwelling on the borders of the Penobscot. Here and there +they saw a few deserted wigwams, which were the only marks of human +occupation. At the mouth of the river, on the borders of Penobscot Bay, the +native inhabitants were numerous. They were of a friendly disposition, and +gave their visitors a cordial welcome, readily entered into negotiations +for the sale of beaver-skins, and the two parties mutually agreed to +maintain a friendly intercourse in the future. + +Having obtained from the Indians some valuable information as to the source +of the Penobscot, and observed their mode of life, which did not differ +from that which they had seen still further east, Champlain departed on the +20th of September, directing his course towards the Kennebec. But, +encountering bad weather, he found it necessary to take shelter under the +lee of the island of Monhegan. + +After sailing three or four leagues farther, finding that his provisions +would not warrant the continuance of the voyage, he determined, on the 23d +of September, to return to the settlement at Saint Croix, or what is now +known as De Monts's Island, where they arrived on the 2d day of October, +1604. + +De Monts's Island, having an area of not more than six or seven acres, is +situated in the river Saint Croix, midway between its opposite shores, +directly upon the dividing line between the townships of Calais and +Robinston in the State of Maine. At the northern end of the island, the +buildings of the settlement were clustered together in the form of a +quadrangle with an open court in the centre. First came the magazine and +lodgings of the soldiers, then the mansion of the governor, De Monts, +surmounted by the colors of France. Houses for Champlain and the other +gentlemen, [38] for the curé, the artisans and workmen, filled up and +completed the quadrangle. Below the houses, gardens were laid out for the +several gentlemen, and at the southern extremity of the island cannon were +mounted for protection against a sudden assault. + +In the ample forests of Maine or New Brunswick, rich in oak and maple and +pine, abounding in deer, partridge, and other wild game, watered by crystal +fountains springing from every acre of the soil, we naturally picture for +our colonists a winter of robust health, physical comfort, and social +enjoyment. The little island which they had chosen was indeed a charming +spot in a summer's day, but we can hardly comprehend in what view it could +have been regarded as suitable for a colonial plantation. In space it was +wholly inadequate; it was destitute of wood and fresh water, and its soil +was sandy and unproductive. In fixing the location of their settlement and +in the construction of their houses, it is obvious that they had entirely +misapprehended the character of the climate. While the latitude was nearly +the same, the temperature was far more rigorous than that of the sunny +France which they had left. The snow began to fall on the 6th of October. +On the 3d of December the ice was seen floating on the surface of the +water. As the season advanced, and the tide came and went, huge floes of +ice, day after day, swept by the island, rendering it impracticable to +navigate the river or pass over to the mainland. They were therefore +imprisoned in their own home. Thus cut off from the game with which the +neighboring forests abounded, they were compelled to subsist almost +exclusively upon salted meats. Nearly all the forest trees on the island +had been used in the construction of their houses, and they had +consequently but a meagre supply of fuel to resist the chilling winds and +penetrating frosts. For fresh water, their only reliance was upon melted +snow and ice. Their store-house had not been furnished with a cellar, and +the frost left nothing untouched; even cider was dispensed in solid blocks. +To crown the gloom and wretchedness of their situation, the colony was +visited with disease of a virulent and fatal character. As the malady was +beyond the knowledge, so it baffled the skill of the surgeons. They called +it _mal de la terre_. Of the seventy-nine persons, composing the whole +number of the colony, thirty-five died, and twenty others were brought to +the verge of the grave. In May, having been liberated from the baleful +influence of their winter prison and revived by the genial warmth of the +vernal sun and by the fresh meats obtained from the savages, the disease +abated, and the survivors gradually regained their strength. + +Disheartened by the bitter experiences of the winter, the governor, having +fully determined to abandon his present establishment, ordered two boats to +be constructed, one of fifteen and the other of seven tons, in which to +transport his colony to Gaspé, in case he received no supplies from France, +with the hope of obtaining a passage home in some of the fishing vessels on +that coast. But from this disagreeable alternative he was happily relieved. +On the 15th of June, 1605, Pont Gravé arrived, to the great joy of the +little colony, with all needed supplies. The purpose of returning to France +was at once abandoned, and, as no time was to be lost, on the 18th of the +same month, De Monts, Champlain, several gentlemen, twenty sailors, two +Indians, Panounias and his wife, set sail for the purpose of discovering a +more eligible site for his colony somewhere on the shores of the present +New England. Passing slowly along the coast, with which Champlain was +already familiar, and consequently without extensive explorations, they at +length reached the waters of the Kennebec, [39] where the survey of the +previous year had terminated and that of the present was about to begin. + +On the 5th of July, they entered the Kennebec, and, bearing to the right, +passed through Back River, [40] grazing their barque on the rocks in the +narrow channel, and then sweeping down round the southern point of +Jerremisquam Island, or Westport, they ascended along its eastern shores +till they came near the present site of Wiscasset, from whence they +returned on the western side of the island, through Monseag Bay, and +threading the narrow passage between Arrowsick and Woolwich, called the +Upper Hell-gate, and again entering the Kennebec, they finally reached +Merrymeeting Bay. Lingering here but a short time, they returned through +the Sagadahock, or lower Kennebec, to the mouth of the river. + +This exploration did not yield to the voyagers any very interesting or +important results. Several friendly interviews were held with the savages +at different points along the route. Near the head waters of the Sheepscot, +probably in Wiscasset Bay, they had an interview, an interesting and joyous +meeting, with the chief Manthomerme and twenty-five or thirty followers, +with whom they exchanged tokens of friendship. Along the shores of the +Sheepscot their attention was attracted by several pleasant streams and +fine expanses of meadow; but the soil observed on this expedition +generally, and especially on the Sagadahock, [41] or lower Kennebec, was +rough and barren, and offered, in the judgment of De Monts and Champlain, +no eligible site for a new settlement. + +Proceeding, therefore, on their voyage, they struck directly across Casco +Bay, not attempting, in their ignorance, to enter the fine harbor of +Portland. + +On the 9th of July, they made the bay that stretches from Cape Elizabeth to +Fletcher's Neck, and anchored under the lee of Stratton Island, directly in +sight of Old Orchard Beach, now a famous watering place during the summer +months. + +The savages having seen the little French barque approaching in the +distance, had built sires to attract its attention, and came down upon the +shore at Prout's Neck, formerly known as Black Point, in large numbers, +indicating their friendliness by lively demonstrations of joy. From this +anchorage, while awaiting the influx of the tide to enable them to pass +over the bar and enter a river which they saw flowing into the bay, De +Monts paid a visit to Richmond's Island, about four miles distant, which he +was greatly delighted, as he found it richly studded with oak and hickory, +whose bending branches were wreathed with luxuriant grapevines loaded with +green clusters of unripe fruit. In honor of the god of wine, they gave to +the island the classic name of Bacchus. [42] At full tide they passed over +the bar and cast anchor within the channel of the Saco. + +The Indians whom they found here were called Almouchiquois, and differed in +many respects from any which they had seen before, from the Sourequois of +Nova Scotia and the Etechemins of the northern part of Maine and New +Brunswick. They spoke a different language, and, unlike their neighbors on +the east, did not subsist mainly by the chase, but upon the products of the +soil, supplemented by fish, which were plentiful and of excellent quality, +and which they took with facility about the mouth of the river. De Monts +and Champlain made an excursion upon the shore, where their eyes were +refreshed by fields of waving corn, and gardens of squashes, beans, and +pumpkins, which were then bursting into flower. [43] Here they saw in +cultivation the rank narcotic _petun_, or tobacco, [44] just beginning to +spread out its broad velvet leaves to the sun, the sole luxury of savage +life. The forests were thinly wooded, but were nevertheless rich in +primitive oak, in lofty ash and elm, and in the more humble and sturdy +beech. As on Richmond's Island so here, along the bank of the river they +found grapes in luxurious growth, from which the sailors busied themselves +in making verjuice, a delicious beverage in the meridian heats of a July +sun. The natives were gentle and amiable, graceful in figure, agile in +movement, and exhibited unusual taste, dressing their hair in a variety of +twists and braids, intertwined with ornamental feathers. + +Champlain observed their method of cultivating Indian corn, which the +experience of two hundred and seventy-five years has in no essential point +improved or even changed. They planted three or four seeds in hills three +feet apart, and heaped the earth about them, and kept the soil clear of +weeds. Such is the method of the successful New England farmer to-day. The +experience of the savage had taught him how many individuals of the rank +plant could occupy prolifically a given area, how the soil must be gathered +about the roots to sustain the heavy stock, and that there must be no rival +near it to draw away the nutriment on which the voracious plant feeds and +grows. Civilization has invented implements to facilitate the processes of +culture, but the observation of the savage had led him to a knowledge of +all that is absolutely necessary to ensure a prolific harvest. + +After lingering two days at Saco, our explorers proceeded on their voyage. +When they had advanced not more than twenty miles, driven by a fierce wind, +they were forced to cast anchor near the salt marshes of Wells. Having been +driven by Cape Porpoise, on the subsidence of the wind, they returned to +it, reconnoitred its harbor and adjacent islands, together with Little +River, a few miles still further to the east. The shores were lined all +along with nut-trees and grape-vines. The islands about Cape Porpoise were +matted all over with wild currants, so that the eye could scarcely discern +any thing else. Attracted doubtless by this fruit, clouds of wild pigeons +had assembled there, and were having a midsummer's festival, fearless of +the treacherous snare or the hunter's deadly aim. Large numbers of them +were taken, which added a coveted luxury to the not over-stocked larder of +the little French barque. + +On the 15th of July, De Monts and his party left Cape Porpoise, +keeping in and following closely the sinuosities of the shore. They +saw no savages during the day, nor any evidences of any, except a +rising smoke, which they approached, but found to be a lone beacon, +without any surroundings of human life. Those who had kindled the fire +had doubtless concealed themselves, or had fled in dismay. Possibly +they had never seen a ship under sail. The fishermen who frequented +our northern coast rarely came into these waters, and the little craft +of our voyagers, moving without oars or any apparent human aid, seemed +doubtless to them a monster gliding upon the wings of the wind. At the +setting of the sun, they were near the flat and sandy coast, now known +as Wallace's Sands. They fought in vain for a roadstead where they +might anchor safely for the night. When they were opposite to Little +Boar's Head, with the Isles of Shoals directly east of them, and the +reflected rays of the sun were still throwing their light upon the +waters, they saw in the distance the dim outline of Cape Anne, whither +they directed their course, and, before morning, came to anchor near +its eastern extremity, in sixteen fathoms of water. Near them were the +three well-known islands at the apex of the cape, covered with +forest-trees, and the woodless cluster of rocks, now called the +Savages, a little further from the shore. + +The next morning five or six Indians timidly approached them in a canoe, +and then retired and set up a dance on the shore, as a token of friendly +greeting. Armed with crayon and drawing-paper, Champlain was despatched to +seek from the natives some important geographical information. Dispensing +knives and biscuit as a friendly invitation, the savages gathered about +him, assured by their gifts, when he proceeded to impart to them their +first lesson in topographical drawing. He pictured to them the bay on the +north side of Cape Anne, which he had just traversed, and signifying to +them that he desired to know the course of the shore on the south, they +immediately gave him an example of their apt scholarship by drawing with +the same crayon an accurate outline of Massachusetts Bay, and finished up +Champlain's own sketch by introducing the Merrimac River, which, not having +been seen, owing to the presence of Plum Island, which stretches like a +curtain before its mouth, he had omitted to portray. The intelligent +natives volunteered a bit of history. By placing six pebbles at equal +distances, they intimated that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six +tribes, and governed by as many chiefs. [45] He learned from them, +likewise, that the inhabitants of this region subsisted by agriculture, as +did those at the mouth of the Saco, and that they were very numerous. + +Leaving Cape Anne on Saturday the 16th of July, De Monts entered +Massachusetts Bay, sailed into Boston harbor, and anchored on the western +side of Noddle's Island, now better known as East Boston. In passing into +the bay, they observed large patches of cleared land, and many fields of +waving corn both upon the islands and the mainland. The water and the +islands, the open fields and lofty forest-trees, presented fine contrasts, +and rendered the scenery attractive and beautiful. Here for the first time +Champlain observed the log canoe. It was a clumsy though serviceable boat +in still waters, nevertheless unstable and dangerous in unskilful hands. +They saw, issuing into the bay, a large river, coming from the west, which +they named River du Guast, in honor of Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, the +patentee of La Cadie, and the patron and director of this expedition. This +was Charles River, seen, evidently just at its confluence with the Mystic. +[46] + +On Sunday, the 17th of July, 1605, they left Boston harbor, threading their +way among the islands, passing leisurely along the south shore, rounding +Point Allerton on the peninsula of Nantasket, gliding along near Cohasset +and Scituate, and finally cast anchor at Brant Point, upon the southern +borders of Marshfield. When they left the harbor of Boston, the islands and +mainland were swarming with the native population. The Indians were, +naturally enough, intensely interested in this visit of the little French +barque. It may have been the first that had ever made its appearance in the +bay. Its size was many times greater than any water-craft of their own. +Spreading its white wings and gliding silently away without oarsmen, it +filled them with surprise and admiration. The whole population was astir. +The cornfields and fishing stations were deserted. Every canoe was manned, +and a flotilla of their tiny craft came to attend, honor, and speed the +parting guests, experiencing, doubtless, a sense of relief that they were +going, and filled with a painful curiosity to know the meaning of this +mysterious visit. + +Having passed the night at Brant Point, they had not advanced more than two +leagues along a sandy shore dotted with wigwams and gardens, when they were +forced to enter a small harbor, to await a more favoring wind. The Indians +flocked about them, greeted them with cordiality, and invited them to enter +the little river which flows into the harbor, but this they were unable to +do, as the tide was low and the depth insufficient. Champlain's attention +was attracted by several canoes in the bay, which had just completed their +morning's work in fishing for cod. The fish were taken with a primitive +hook and line, apparently in a manner not very different from that of the +present day. The line was made of a filament of bark stripped from the +trunk of a tree; the book was of wood, having a sharp bone, forming a barb, +lashed to it with a cord of a grassy fibre, a kind of wild hemp, growing +spontaneously in that region. Champlain landed, distributed trinkets among +the natives, examined and sketched an outline of the place, which +identifies it as Plymouth harbor, which captain John Smith visited in 1614, +and where the May Flower, still six years later landed the first permanent +colony planted upon New England soil. + +After a day at Plymouth, the little bark weighed anchor, swept down Cape +Cod, approaching near to the reefs of Billingsgate, describing a complete +semicircle, and finally, with some difficulty, doubled the cape whose white +sands they had seen in the distance glittering in the sunlight and which +appropriately they named _Cap Blanc_. This cape, however, had been visited +three years before by Bartholomew Gosnold, and named Cape Cod, which +appellation it has retained to the present time. Passing down on the +outside of the cape some distance, they came to anchor, sent explorers on +the shore, who ascending on of the lofty sand-banks [47] which may still be +seen there silently resisting the winds and waves, discovered further to +the south, what is now known as Nauset harbor, entirely surrounded by +Indian cabins. The next day, the 20th of July, 1605, they effected an +entrance without much difficulty. The bay was spacious, being nine or ten +miles in circumference. Along the borders, there were, here and there, +cultivated patches, interspersed with dwellings of the natives. The wigwam +was cone-shaped, heavily thatched with reeds, having an orifice at the apex +for the emission of smoke. In the fields were growing Indian corn, +Brazilian beans, pumpkins, radishes, and tobacco; and in the woods were oak +and hickory and red cedar. During their stay in the harbor they encountered +an easterly storm, which continued four days, so raw and chilling that they +were glad to hug their winter cloaks about them on the 22d of July. The +natives were friendly and cordial, and entered freely into conversation +with Champlain; but, as the language of each party was not understood by +the other, the information he obtained from them was mostly by signs, and +consequently too general to be historically interesting or important. + +The first and only act of hostility by the natives which De Monts and his +party had thus far experienced in their explorations on the entire coast +occurred in this harbor. Several of the men had gone ashore to obtain fresh +water. Some of the Indians conceived an uncontrollable desire to capture +the copper vessels which they saw in their hands. While one of the men was +stooping to dip water from a spring, one of the savages darted upon him and +snatched the coveted vessel from his hand. An encounter followed, and, amid +showers of arrows and blows, the poor sailor was brutally murdered. The +victorious Indian, fleet as the reindeer, escaped with his companions, +bearing his prize with him into the depths of the forest. The natives on +the shore, who had hitherto shown the greatest friendliness, soon came to +De Monts, and by signs disowned any participation in the act, and assured +him that the guilty parties belonged far in the interior. Whether this was +the truth or a piece of adroit diplomacy, it was nevertheless accepted by +De Monts, since punishment could only be administered at the risk of +causing the innocent to suffer instead of the guilty. + +The young sailor whose earthly career was thus suddenly terminated, whose +name even has not come down to us, was doubtless the first European, if we +except Thorvald, the Northman, whose mortal remains slumber in the soil of +Massachusetts. + +As this voyage of discovery had been planned and provisioned for only six +weeks, and more than five had already elapsed, on the 25th of July De Monts +and his party left Nauset harbor, to join the colony still lingering at St. +Croix. In passing the bar, they came near being wrecked, and consequently +gave to the harbor the significant appellation of _Port de Mallebarre_, a +name which has not been lost, but nevertheless, like the shifting sands of +that region, has floated away from its original moorings, and now adheres +to the sandy cape of Monomoy. + +On their return voyage, they made a brief stop at Saco, and likewise at the +mouth of the Kennebec. At the latter point they had an interview with the +sachem, Anassou, who informed them that a ship had been there, and that the +men on board her had seized, under color of friendship, and killed five +savages belonging to that river. From the description given by Anassou, +Champlain was convinced that the ship was English, and subsequent events +render it quite certain that it was the "Archangel," fitted out by the Earl +of Southampton and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and commanded by Captain George +Weymouth. The design of the expedition was to fix upon an eligible site for +a colonial plantation, and, in pursuance of this purpose, Weymouth anchored +off Monhegan on the 28th of May, 1605, _new style_, and, after spending a +month in explorations of the region contiguous, left for England on the +26th of June. [48] He had seized and carried away five of the natives, +having concealed them in the hold of his ship, and Anassou, under the +circumstances, naturally supposed they had been killed. The statement of +the sachem, that the natives captured belonged to the river where Champlain +then was, namely, the Kennebec, goes far to prove that Weymouth's +explorations were in the Kennebec, or at least in the network of waters +then comprehended under that appellation, and not in the Penobscot or in +any other river farther east, as some historical writers have supposed. + +It would appear that while the French were carefully surveying the coasts +of New England, in order to fix upon an eligible site for a permanent +colonial settlement, the English were likewise upon the ground, engaged in +a similar investigation for the same purpose. From this period onward, for +more than a century and a half, there was a perpetual conflict and struggle +for territorial possession on the northern coast of America, between these +two great nations, sometimes active and violent, and at others subsiding +into a semi-slumber, but never ceasing until every acre of soil belonging +to the French had been transferred to the English by a solemn international +compact. + +On this exploration, Champlain noticed along the coast from Kennebec to +Cape Cod, and described several objects in natural history unknown in +Europe, such as the horse-foot crab, [49] the black skimmer, and the wild +turkey, the latter two of which have long since ceased to visit this +region. + +ENDNOTES: + +34. _De Monts's Island_. Of this island Champlain says: "This place was + named by Sieur De Monts the Island of St. Croix."--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 32, note 86. St. Croix has now for a long time been applied as the name + of the river in which this island is found. The French denominated this + stream the River of the Etechemins, after the name of the tribe of + savages inhabiting its shores. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 31. It continued to + be so called for a long time. Denys speaks of it under this name in + 1672. "Depuis la riviere de Pentagouet, jusques à celle de saint Jean, + il pent y avoir quarante à quarante cinq lieues; la première rivière + que l'on rencontre le long de la coste, est celle des Etechemins, qui + porte le nom du pays, depuis Baston jusques au Port royal, dont les + Sauvages qui habitent toute cette étendue, portent aussi le mesme + nom."--_Description Géographique et Historique des Costes de L'Amerique + Septentrionale_, par Nicholas Denys, Paris, 1672, p. 29, _et verso_. + +35. Champlain had, by his own explorations and by consulting the Indians, + obtained a very full and accurate knowledge of this island at his first + visit, on the 5th of September, 1604, when he named it _Monts-déserts_, + which we preserve in the English form, MOUNT DESERT. He observed that + the distance across the channel to the mainland on the north side was + less than a hundred paces. The rocky and barren summits of this cluster + of little mountains obviously induced him to give to the island its + appropriate and descriptive name _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 39. Dr. Edward + Ballard derives the Indian name of this island, _Pemetiq_, from + _pemé'te_, sloping, and _ki_, land. He adds that it probably denoted a + single locality which was taken by Biard's company as the name of the + whole island. _Vide Report of U. S. Coast Survey_ for 1868, p. 253. + +36. Penobscot is a corruption of the Abnaki _pa'na8a'bskek_. A nearly exact + translation is "at the fall of the rock," or "at the descending rock." + _Vide Trumball's Ind. Geog. Names_, Collections Conn. His. Society, + Vol. II. p. 19. This name was originally given probably to some part of + the river to which its meaning was particularly applicable. This may + have been at the mouth of the river a Fort Point, a rocky elevation not + less than eighty feet in height. Or it may have been the "fall of water + coming down a slope of seven or eight feet," as Champlain expresses it, + a short distance above the site of the present city of Bangor. That + this name was first obtained by those who only visited the mouth of the + river would seem to favor the former supposition. + +37. Dr. Edward Ballard supposes the original name of this stream, + _Kadesquit_, to be derived from _kaht_, a Micmac word, for _eel_, + denoting _eel stream_, now corrupted into _Kenduskeag_. The present + site of the city of Bangor is where Biard intended to establish his + mission in 1613, but he was finally induced to fix it at Mount + Desert--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 44. + +38. The other gentlemen whose names we have learned were Messieurs + d'Orville, Champdoré, Beaumont, la Motte Bourioli, Fougeray or Foulgeré + de Vitré, Genestou, Sourin, and Boulay. The orthography of the names, + as they are mentioned from time to time, is various. + +39. _Kennebec_. Biard, in the _Relation, de la Nouvelle France, Relations + des Jésuites_, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. 35, writes it _Quinitequi_, and + Champlain writes it _Quinibequy_ and _Quinebequi_; hence Mr. Trumball + infers that it is probably equivalent in meaning to _quin-ni-pi-ohke_, + meaning "long water place," derived from the Abnaki, _K8 + né-be-ki_.--_Vide Ind. Geog. Names_, Col. Conn. His. Soc. Vol. II. p. + 15. + +40. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 110. + +41. _Sagadahock_. This name is particularly applied to the lower part of + the Kennebec. It is from the Abnaki, _sa'ghede'aki_, "land at the + mouth."--_Vide Indian Geographical Names_, by J. H. Trumball, Col. + Conn. His. Society, Vol. II. p. 30. Dr. Edward Ballard derives it from + _sanktai-i-wi_, to finish, and _onk_, a locative, "the finishing + place," which means the mouth of a river.--_Vide Report of U. S. Coast + Survey_, 1868, p. 258. + +42. _Bacchus Island_. This was Richmond's Island, as we have stated in Vol. + II. note 123. It will be admitted that the Bacchus Island of Champlain + was either Richmond's Island or one of those in the bay of the Saco. + Champlain does not give a specific name to any of the islands in the + bay, as may be seen by referring to the explanations of his map of the + bay, Vol. II p. 65. If one of them had been Bacchus Island, he would + not have failed to refer to it, according to his uniform custom, under + that name. Hence it is certain that his Bacchus Island was not one of + those figured on his local map of the bay of the Saco. By reference to + the large map of 1632, it will be seen that Bacchus Island is + represented by the number 50, which is placed over against the largest + island in the neighborhood and that farthest to the east, which, of + course, must be Richmond's Island. It is, however, proper to state that + these reference figures are not in general so carefully placed as to + enable us to rely upon them in fixing a locality, particularly if + unsupported by other evidence. But in this case other evidence is not + wanting. + +43. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 64-67. + +44. _Nicotiana rustica. Vide_, Vol. II. by Charles Pickering, M.D. Boston, + note 130. _Chronological His. Plants_, 1879, p. 741, _et passim_. + +45. Daniel Gookin, who wrote in 1674, speaks of the following subdivisions + among the Massachusetts Indians: "Their chief sachem held dominion over + many other petty governours; as those of Weechagafkas, Neponsitt, + Punkapaog, Nonantam, Nashaway, and some of the Nipmuck people."--_Vide + Gookin's His. Col._ + +46. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 159. _Mushauiwomuk_, which we have converted into + _Shawmut, means_, "where there is going-by-boat." The French, if they + heard the name and learned its meaning, could hardly have failed to see + the appropriateness of it as applied by the aborigines to Boston + harbor.--_Vide Trumball_ in Connecticut Historical Society's + Collections, Vol. II. p. 5. + +47. It was probably on this very bluff from which was seen Nauset harbor on + the 19th of July, 1605, and after the lapse of two hundred and seventy + four years, on the 17th of November, 1879 the citizens of the United + States, with the flags of America, France, and England gracefully + waving over their heads, addressed their congratulations by telegraph + to the citizens of France at Brest on the communication between the two + countries that day completed through submarine wires under the auspices + of the "Compagnie Française du Télégraph de Paris à New York." + +48. _Vide_ Vol. II. p 91, note 176. + +49. The Horsefoot-crab, _Limulus polyphemus_. Champlain gives the Indian + name, _siguenoc_. Hariot saw, while at Roanoke Island, in 1585, and + described the same crustacean under the name of _seekanauk_. The Indian + word is obviously the same, the differing French and English + orthography representing the same sound. It thus appears that this + shell-fish was at that time known by the aborigines under the same name + for at least a thousand miles along the Atlantic coast, from the + Kennebec, in Maine, to Roanoke Island, in North Carolina. _Vide + Hariot's Briefe and True Report of the New Found Land of Virginia_, + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 334. See also Vol. II. of this work, notes 171, + 172, 173, for some account of the black skimmer and the wild turkey. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND REMOVAL TO PORT ROYAL.--DE MONTS RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--SEARCH FOR MINES.--WINTER.--SCURVY.--LATE ARRIVAL OF SUPPLIES AND +EXPLORATIONS ON THE COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS.--GLOCESTER HARBOR, STAY AT +CHATHAM AND ATTACK OF THE SAVAGES.--WOOD'S HOLL.--RETURN TO ANNAPOLIS +BASIN. + +On the 8th of August, the exploring party reached St. Croix. During their +absence, Pont Gravé had arrived from France with additional men and +provisions for the colony. As no satisfactory site had been found by De +Monts in his recent tour along the coast, it was determined to remove the +colony temporarily to Port Royal, situated within the bay now known as +Annapolis Basin. The buildings at St. Croix, with the exception of the +store-house, were taken down and transported to the bay. Champlain and Pont +Gravé were sent forward to select a place for the settlement, which was +fixed on the north side of the basin, directly opposite to Goat Island, +near or upon the present site of Lower Granville. The situation was +protected from the piercing and dreaded winds of the northwest by a lofty +range of hills, [50] while it was elevated and commanded a charming view of +the placid bay in front. The dwellings which they erected were arranged in +the form of a quadrangle with an open court in the centre, as at St. Croix, +while gardens and pleasure-grounds were laid out by Champlain in the +immediate vicinity. + +When the work of the new settlement was well advanced, De Monts, having +appointed Pont Gravé as his lieutenant, departed for France, where he hoped +to obtain additional privileges from the government in his enterprise of +planting a colony in the New World. Champlain preferred to remain, with the +purpose of executing more fully his office as geographer to the king, by +making discoveries on the Atlantic coast still further to the south. + +From the beginning, the patentee had cherished the desire of discovering +valuable mines somewhere on his domains, whose wealth, as well as that of +the fur-trade, might defray some part of the heavy expenses involved in his +colonial enterprise. While several investigations for this purpose had +proved abortive, it was hoped that greater success would be attained by +searches along the upper part of the Bay of Fundy. Before the approach of +winter, therefore, Champlain and the miner, Master Jaques, a Sclavonian, +made a tour to St. John, where they obtained the services of the Indian +chief, Secondon, to accompany them and point out the place where copper ore +had been discovered at the Bay of Mines. The search, thorough as was +practicable under the circumstances, was, in the main, unsuccessful; the +few specimens which they found were meagre and insignificant. + +The winter at Port Royal was by no means so severe as the preceding one at +St. Croix. The Indians brought in wild game from the forests. The colony +had no want of fuel and pure water. But experience, bitter as it had been, +did not yield to them the fruit of practical wisdom. They referred their +sufferings to the climate, but took too little pains to protect themselves +against its rugged power. Their dwellings, hastily thrown together, were +cold and damp, arising from the green, unseasoned wood of which they were +doubtless in part constructed, and from the standing rainwater with which +their foundations were at all times inundated, which was neither diverted +by embankments nor drawn away by drainage. The dreaded _mal de la terre_, +or scurvy, as might have been anticipated, made its appearance in the early +part of the season, causing the death of twelve out of the forty-five +comprising their whole number, while others were prostrated by this +painful, repulsive, and depressing disease. + +The purpose of making further discoveries on the southern coast, warmly +cherished by Champlain, and entering fully into the plans of De Monts, had +not been forgotten. Three times during the early part of the summer they +had equipped their barque, made up their party, and left Port Royal for +this undertaking, and as many times had been driven back by the violence of +the winds and the waves. + +In the mean time, the supplies which had been promised and expected from +France had not arrived. This naturally gave to Pont Gravé, the lieutenant, +great anxiety, as without them it was clearly inexpedient to venture upon +another winter in the wilds of La Cadie. It had been stipulated by De +Monts, the patentee, that if succors did not arrive before the middle of +July, Pont Gravé should make arrangements for the return of the colony by +the fishing vessels to be found at the Grand Banks. Accordingly, on the +17th of that month, Pont Gravé set sail with the little colony in two +barques, and proceeded towards Cape Breton, to seek a passage home. But De +Monts had not been remiss in his duty. He had, after many difficulties and +delays, despatched a vessel of a hundred and fifty tons, called the +"Jonas," with fifty men and ample provisions for the approaching winter. +While Pont Gravé with his two barques and his retreating colony had run +into Yarmouth Bay for repairs, the "Jonas" passed him unobserved, and +anchored in the basin before the deserted settlement of Port Royal. An +advice-boat had, however, been wisely despatched by the "Jonas" to +reconnoitre the inlets along the shore, which fortunately intercepted the +departing colony near Cape Sable, and, elated with fresh news from home, +they joyfully returned to the quarters they had so recently abandoned. + +In addition to a considerable number of artisans and laborers for the +colony, the "Jonas" had brought out Sieur De Poutrincourt, to remain as +lieutenant of La Cadie, and likewise Marc Lescarbot, a young attorney of +Paris, who had already made some scholarly attainments, and who +subsequently distinguished himself as an author, especially by the +publication of a history of New France. + +De Poutrincourt immediately addressed himself to putting all things in +order at Port Royal, where it was obviously expedient for the colony to +remain, at least for the winter. As soon as the "Jonas" had been unladen, +Pont Gravé and most of those who had shared his recent hardships, departed +in her for the shores of France. When the tenements had been cleansed, +refitted, and refurnished, and their provisions had been safely stored, De +Poutrincourt, by way of experiment, to test the character of the climate +and the capability of the soil, despatched a squad of gardeners and farmers +five miles up the river, to the grounds now occupied by the village of +Annapolis, [51] where the soil was open, clear of forest trees, and easy of +cultivation. They planted a great variety of seeds, wheat, rye, hemp, flax, +and of garden esculents, which grew with extraordinary luxuriance, but, as +the season was too late for any of them to ripen, the experiment failed +either as a test of the soil or the climate. + +On a former visit in 1604, De Poutrincourt had conceived a great admiration +for Annapolis basin, its protected situation, its fine scenery, and its +rich soil. He had a strong desire to bring his family there and make it his +permanent abode. With this design, he had requested and received from De +Monts a personal grant of this region, which had also been confirmed to him +[52] by Henry IV. But De Monts wished to plant his La Cadian colony in a +milder and more genial climate. He had therefore enjoined upon De +Poutrincourt, as his lieutenant, on leaving France, to continue the +explorations for the selection of a site still farther to the south. +Accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1606, De Poutrincourt left Annapolis +Basin, which the French called Port Royal, in a barque of eighteen tons, to +fulfil this injunction. + +It was Champlain's opinion that they ought to sail directly for Nauset +harbor, on Cape Cod, and commence their explorations where their search had +terminated the preceding year, and thus advance into a new region, which +had not already been surveyed. But other counsels prevailed, and a large +part of the time which could be spared for this investigation was exhausted +before they reached the harbor of Nauset. They made a brief visit to the +island of St. Croix, in which De Monts had wintered in 1604-5, touched also +at Saco, where the Indians had already completed their harvest, and the +grapes at Bacchus Island were ripe and luscious. Thence sailing directly to +Cape Anne, where, finding no safe roadstead, they passed round to +Gloucester harbor, which they found spacious, well protected, with good +depth of water, and which, for its great excellence and attractive scenery, +they named _Beauport_, or the beautiful harbor. Here they remained several +days. It was a native settlement, comprising two hundred savages, who were +cultivators of the soil, which was prolific in corn, beans, melons, +pumpkins, tobacco, and grapes. The harbor was environed with fine forest +trees, as hickory, oak, ash, cypress, and sassafras. Within the town there +were several patches of cultivated land, which the Indians were gradually +augmenting by felling the trees, burning the wood, and after a few years, +aided by the natural process of decay, eradicating the stumps. The French +were kindly received and entertained with generous hospitality. Grapes just +gathered from the vines, and squashes of several varieties, the trailing +bean still well known in New England, and the Jerusalem artichoke crisp +from the unexhausted soil, were presented as offerings of welcome to their +guests. While these gifts were doubtless tokens of a genuine friendliness +so far as the savages were capable of that virtue, the lurking spirit of +deceit and treachery which had been inherited and fostered by their habits +and mode of life, could not be restrained. + +The French barque was lying at anchor a short distance northeast of Ten +Pound Island. Its boat was undergoing repairs on a peninsula near by, now +known as Rocky Neck, and the sailors were washing their linen just at the +point where the peninsula is united to the mainland. While Champlain was +walking on this causeway, he observed about fifty savages, completely +armed, cautiously screening themselves behind a clump of bushes on the edge +of Smith's Cove. As soon as they were aware that they were seen, they came +forth, concealing their weapons as much as possible, and began to dance in +token of a friendly greeting. But when they discovered De Poutrincourt in +the wood near by, who had approached unobserved, with eight armed +musketeers to disperse them in case of an attack, they immediately took to +flight, and, scattering in all directions, made no further hostile +demonstrations. [53] This serio-comic incident did not interfere with the +interchange of friendly offices between the two parties, and when the +voyagers were about to leave, the savages urged them with great earnestness +to remain longer, assuring them that two thousand of their friends would +pay them a visit the very next day. This invitation was, however, not +heeded. In Champlain's opinion it was a _ruse_ contrived only to furnish a +fresh opportunity to attack and overpower them. + +On the 30th of September, they left the harbor of Gloucester, and, during +the following night, sailing in a southerly direction, passing Brant Point, +they found themselves in the lower part of Cape Cod Bay. When the sun rose, +a low, sandy shore stretched before them. Sending their boat forward to a +place where the shore seemed more elevated, they found deeper water and a +harbor, into which they entered in five or six fathoms. They were welcomed +by three Indian canoes. They found oysters in such quantities in this bay, +and of such excellent quality, that they named it _Le Port aux Huistres_, +[54] or Oyster Harbor. After a few hours, they weighed anchor, and +directing their course north, a quarter northeast, with a favoring wind, +soon doubled Cape Cod. The next day, the 2d of October, they arrived off +Nauset. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others entered the harbor in a +small boat, where they were greeted by a hundred and fifty savages with +singing and dancing, according to their usual custom. After a brief visit, +they returned to the barque and continued their course along the sandy +shore. When near the heel of the cape, off Chatham, they found themselves +imperilled among breakers and sand-banks, so dangerous as to render it +inexpedient to attempt to land, even with a small boat. The savages were +observing them from the shore, and soon manned a canoe, and came to them +with singing and demonstrations of joy. From them, they learned that lower +down a harbor would be found, where their barque might ride in safety. +Proceeding, therefore, in the same direction, after many difficulties, they +succeeded in rounding the peninsula of Monomoy, and finally, in the gray of +the evening, cast anchor in the offing near Chatham, now known as Old Stage +Harbor. The next day they entered, passing between Harding's Beach Point +and Morris Island, in two fathoms of water, and anchored in Stage Harbor. +This harbor is about a mile long and half a mile wide, and at its western +extremity is connected by tide-water with Oyster Pond, and with Mill Cove +on the east by Mitchell's River. Mooring their barque between these two +arms of the harbor, towards the westerly end, the explorers remained there +about three weeks. It was the centre of an Indian settlement, containing +five or six hundred persons. Although it was now well into October, the +natives of both sexes were entirely naked, with the exception of a slight +band about the loins. They subsisted upon fish and the products of the +soil. Indian corn was their staple. It was secured in the autumn in bags +made of braided grass, and buried in the sand-banks, and withdrawn as it +was needed during the winter. The savages were of fine figure and of olive +complexion. They adorned themselves with an embroidery skilfully interwoven +with feathers and beads, and dressed their hair in a variety of braids, +like those at Saco. Their dwellings were conical in shape, covered with +thatch of rushes and corn-husks, and surrounded by cultivated fields. Each +cabin contained one or two beds, a kind of matting, two or three inches in +thickness, spread upon a platform on which was a layer of elastic staves, +and the whole raised a foot from the ground. On these they secured +refreshing repose. Their chiefs neither exercised nor claimed any superior +authority, except in time of war. At all other times and in all other +matters complete equality reigned throughout the tribe. + +The stay at Chatham was necessarily prolonged in baking bread to serve the +remainder of the voyage, and in repairing their barque, whose rudder had +been badly shattered in the rough passage round the cape. For these +purposes, a bakery and a forge were set up on shore, and a tent pitched for +the convenience and protection of the workmen. While these works were in +progress, De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and others made frequent excursions +into the interior, always with a guard of armed men, sometimes making a +circuit of twelve or fifteen miles. The explorers were fascinated with all +they saw. The aroma of the autumnal forest and the balmy air of October +stimulated their senses. The nut-trees were loaded with ripe fruit, and the +rich clusters of grapes were hanging temptingly upon the vines. Wild game +was plentiful and delicious. The fish of the bay were sweet, delicate, and +of many varieties. Nature, unaided by art, had thus supplied so many human +wants that Champlain gravely put upon record his opinion that this would be +a most excellent place in which to lay the foundations of a commonwealth, +if the harbor were deeper and better protected at its mouth. + +After the voyagers had been in Chatham eight or nine days, the Indians, +tempted by the implements which they saw about the forge and bakery, +conceived the idea of taking forcible possession of them, in order to +appropriate them to their own use. As a preparation for this, and +particularly to put themselves in a favorable condition in case of an +attack or reprisal, they were seen removing their women, children, and +effects into the forests, and even taking down their cabins. De +Poutrincourt, observing this, gave orders to the workmen to pass their +nights no longer on shore, but to go on board the barque to assure their +personal safety. This command, however, was not obeyed. The next morning, +at break of day, four hundred savages, creeping softly over a hill in the +rear, surrounded the tent, and poured such a volley of arrows upon the +defenceless workmen that escape was impossible. Three of them were killed +upon the spot; a fourth was mortally and a fifth badly wounded. The alarm +was given by the sentinel on the barque. De Poutrincourt, Champlain, and +the rest, aroused from their slumbers, rushed half-clad into the ship's +boat, and hastened to the rescue. As soon as they touched the shore, the +savages, fleet as the greyhound, escaped to the wood. Pursuit, under the +circumstances, was not to be made; and, if it had been, would have ended in +their utter destruction. Freed from immediate danger, they collected the +dead and gave them Christian burial near the foot of a cross, which had +been erected the day before. While the service of prayer and song was +offered, the savages in the distance mocked them with derisive attitudes +and hideous howls. Three hours after the French had retired to their +barque, the miscreants returned, tore down the cross, disinterred the dead, +and carried off the garments in which they had been laid to rest. They were +immediately driven off by the French, the cross was restored to its place, +and the dead reinterred. + +Before leaving Chatham, some anxiety was felt in regard to their safety in +leaving the harbor, as the little barque had scarcely been able to weather +the rough seas of Monomoy on their inward voyage. A boat had been sent out +in search of a safer and a better roadway, which, creeping along by the +shore sixteen or eighteen miles, returned, announcing three fathoms of +water, and neither bars nor reefs. On the 16th of October they gave their +canvas to the breeze, and sailed out of Stage Harbor, which they had named +_Port Fortuné_, [55] an appellation probably suggested by their narrow +escape in entering and by the bloody tragedy to which we have just +referred. Having gone eighteen or twenty miles, they sighted the island of +Martha's Vineyard lying low in the distance before them, which they called +_La Soupçonneuse_, the suspicious one, as they had several times been in +doubt whether it were not a part of the mainland. A contrary wind forced +them to return to their anchorage in Stage Harbor. On the 20th they set out +again, and continued their course in a southwesterly direction until they +reached the entrance of Vineyard Sound. The rapid current of tide water +flowing from Buzzard's Bay into the sound through the rocky channel between +Nonamesset and Wood's Holl, they took to be a river coming from the +mainland, and named it _Rivière de Champlain_. + +This point, in front of Wood's Holl, is the southern limit of the French +explorations on the coast of New England, reached by them on the 20th of +October, 1606. + +Encountering a strong wind, approaching a gale, they were again forced to +return to Stage Harbor, where they lingered two or three days, awaiting +favoring winds for their return to the colony at the bay of Annapolis. + +We regret to add that, while they were thus detained, under the very shadow +of the cross they had recently erected, the emblem of a faith that teaches +love and forgiveness, they decoyed, under the guise of friendship, several +of the poor savages into their power, and inhumanly butchered them in cold +blood. This deed was perpetrated on the base principle of _lex talionis_, +and yet they did not know, much less were they able to prove, that their +victims were guilty or took any part in the late affray. No form of trial +was observed, no witnesses testified, and no judge adjudicated. It was a +simple murder, for which we are sure any Christian's cheek would mantle +with shame who should offer for it any defence or apology. + +When this piece of barbarity had been completed, the little French barque +made its final exit from Stage Harbor, passed successfully round the shoals +of Monomoy, and anchored near Nauset, where they remained a day or two, +leaving on the 28th of October, and sailing directly to Isle Haute in +Penobscot Bay. They made brief stops at some of the islands at the mouth of +the St. Croix, and at the Grand Manan, and arrived at Annapolis Basin on +the 14th of November, after an exceedingly rough passage and many +hair-breadth escapes. + +ENDNOTES: + +50. On Lescarbot's map of 1609, this elevation is denominated _Mont de la + Roque_. _Vide_ also Vol. II. note 180. + +51. Lescarbot locates Poutrincourt's fort on the same spot which he called + _Manefort_, the site of the present village of Annapolis. + +52. "Doncques l'an 1607, tous les François estans reuenus (ainsi qu'a esté + dict) le Sieur de Potrincourt présenta à feu d'immortelle memorie Henry + le Grand la donnation à luy faicte par le sieur de Monts, requérant + humblement Sa Majesté de la ratifier. Le Roy eut pour agréable la dicte + Requeste," &c. _Relations des Jésuites_, 1611, Quebec ed., Vol. I. p. + 25. _Vide_ Vol. II. of this work, p 37. + +53. This scene is well represented on Champlain's map of _Beauport_ or + Gloucester Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 114. + +54. _Le Port aux Huistres_, Barnstable Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. Note 208. + +55. _Port Fortuné_ In giving this name there was doubtless an allusion to + the goddess FORTUNA of the ancients, whose office it was to dispense + riches and poverty, pleasures and pains, blessings and calamities They + had experienced good and evil at her fickle hand. They had entered the + harbor in peril and fear, but nevertheless in safety. They had suffered + by the attack of the savages, but fortunately had escaped utter + annihilation, which they might well have feared. It had been to them + eminently the port of hazard or chance. _Vide_ Vol. II Note 231 _La + Soupçonneuse_. _Vide_ Vol. II, Note 227. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +RECEPTION OK THE EXPLORERS AT ANNAPOLIS BASIN.--A DREARY WINTER RELIEVED BY +THE ORDER OF BON TEMPS.--NEWS FROM FRANCE.--BIRTH OF A PRINCE.--RUIN OF DE +MONTS'S COMPANY--TWO EXCURSIONS AND DEPARTURE FOR FRANCE.--CHAMPLAIN'S +EXPLORATIONS COMPARED.--DE MONTS'S NEW CHARTER FOR ONE YEAR AND CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN IN 1608 TO NEW FRANCE AND THE FOUNDING OF QUEBEC.--CONSPIRACY OF DU +VAL AND HIS EXECUTION. + +With the voyage which we have described in the last chapter, Champlain +terminated his explorations on the coast of New England. He never afterward +stepped upon her soil. But he has left us, nevertheless, an invaluable +record of the character, manners, and customs of the aborigines as he saw +them all along from the eastern borders of Maine to the Vineyard Sound, and +carefully studied them during the period of three consecutive years. Of the +value of these explorations we need not here speak at length. We shall +refer to them again in the sequel. + +The return of the explorers was hailed with joy by the colonists at +Annapolis Basin. To give _éclat_ to the occasion, Lescarbot composed a poem +in French, which he recited at the head of a procession which marched with +gay representations to the water's edge, to receive their returning +friends. Over the gateway of the quadrangle formed by their dwellings, +dignified by them as their fort, were the arms of France, wreathed in +laurel, together with the motto of the king.-- + + DVO PROTEGIT VNVS. + +Under this, the arms of De Monts were displayed, overlaid with evergreen, +and bearing the following inscription:-- + + DABIT DEVS HIS QVOQVE FINEM. + +Then came the arms of Poutrincourt, crowned also with garlands, and +inscribed:-- + + IN VIA VIRTVTI NVLLA EST VIA. + +When the excitement of the return had passed, the little settlement +subsided into its usual routine. The leisure of the winter was devoted to +various objects bearing upon the future prosperity of the colony. Among +others, a corn mill was erected at a fall on Allen River, four or five +miles from the settlement, a little east of the present site of Annapolis. +A road was commenced through the forest leading from Lower Granville +towards the mouth of the bay. Two small barques were built, to be in +readiness in anticipation of a failure to receive succors the next summer, +and new buildings were erected for the accommodation of a larger number of +colonists. Still, there was much unoccupied time, and, shut out as they +were from the usual associations of civilized life, it was hardly possible +that the winter should not seem long and dreary, especially to the +gentlemen. + +To break up the monotony and add variety to the dull routine of their life, +Champlain contrived what he called L'ORDRE DE BON TEMPS, or The Rule of +Mirth, which was introduced and carried out with spirit and success. The +fifteen gentlemen who sat at the table of De Poutrincourt, the governor, +comprising the whole number of the order, took turns in performing the +duties of steward and caterer, each holding the office for a single day. +With a laudable ambition, the Grand Master for the time being laid the +forest and the sea under contribution, and the table was constantly +furnished with the most delicate and well seasoned game, and the sweetest +as well as the choicest varieties of fish. The frequent change of office +and the ingenuity displayed, offered at every repast, either in the viands +or mode of cooking, something new and tempting to the appetite. At each +meal, a ceremony becoming the dignity of the order was strictly observed. +At a given signal, the whole company marched into the dining-hall, the +Grand Master at the head, with his napkin over his shoulder, his staff of +office in his hand, and the glittering collar of the order about his neck, +while the other members bore each in his hand a dish loaded and smoking +with some part of the delicious repast. A ceremony of a somewhat similar +character was observed at the bringing in of the fruit. At the close of the +day, when the last meal had been served, and grace had been said, the +master formally completed his official duty by placing the collar of the +order upon the neck of his successor, at the same time presenting to him a +cup of wine, in which the two drank to each other's health and happiness. +These ceremonies were generally witnessed by thirty or forty savages, men, +women, boys, and girls, who gazed in respectful admiration, not to say awe, +upon this exhibition of European civilization. When Membertou, [56] the +venerable chief of the tribe, or other sagamores were present, they were +invited to a seat at the table, while bread was gratuitously distributed to +the rest. + +When the winter had passed, which proved to be an exceedingly mild one, all +was astir in the little colony. The preparation of the soil, both in the +gardens and in the larger fields, for the spring sowing, created an +agreeable excitement and healthy activity. + +On the 24th May, in the midst of these agricultural enterprises, a boat +arrived in the bay, in charge of a young man from St. Malo, named +Chevalier, who had come out in command of the "Jonas," which he had left at +Canseau engaged in fishing for the purpose of making up a return cargo of +that commodity. Chevalier brought two items of intelligence of great +interest to the colonists, but differing widely in their character. The one +was the birth of a French prince, the Duke of Orleans; the other, that the +company of De Monts had been broken up, his monopoly of the fur-trade +withdrawn, and his colony ordered to return to France. The birth of a +prince demanded expressions of joy, and the event was loyally celebrated by +bonfires and a _Te Deum_. It was, however, giving a song when they would +gladly have hung their harps upon the willows. + +While the scheme of De Monts's colonial enterprise was defective, +containing in itself a principle which must sooner or later work its ruin, +the disappointment occasioned by its sudden termination was none the less +painful and humiliating. The monopoly on which it was based could only be +maintained by a degree of severity and apparent injustice, which always +creates enemies and engenders strife. The seizure and confiscation of +several ships with their valuable cargoes on the shores of Nova Scotia, had +awakened a personal hostility in influential circles in France, and the +sufferers were able, in turn, to strike back a damaging blow upon the +author of their losses. They easily and perhaps justly represented that the +monopoly of the fur-trade secured to De Monts was sapping the national +commerce and diverting to personal emolument revenues that properly +belonged to the state. To an impoverished sovereign with an empty treasury +this appeal was irresistible. The sacredness of the king's commission and +the loss to the patentee of the property already embarked in the enterprise +had no weight in the royal scales. De Monts's privilege was revoked, with +the tantalizing salvo of six thousand livres in remuneration, to be +collected at his own expense from unproductive sources. + +Under these circumstances, no money for the payment of the workmen or +provisions for the coming winter had been sent out, and De Poutrincourt, +with great reluctance, proceeded to break up the establishment The goods +and utensils, as well as specimens of the grain which they had raised, were +to be carefully packed and sent round to the harbor of Canseau, to be +shipped by the "Jonas," together with the whole body of the colonists, as +soon as she should have received her cargo of fish. + +While these preparations were in progress, two excursions were made; one +towards the west, and another northeasterly towards the head of the Bay of +Fundy. Lescarbot accompanied the former, passing several days at St. John +and the island of St. Croix, which was the westerly limit of his +explorations and personal knowledge of the American coast. The other +excursion was conducted by De Poutrincourt, accompanied by Champlain, the +object of which was to search for ores of the precious metals, a species of +wealth earnestly coveted and overvalued at the court of France. They sailed +along the northern shores of Nova Scotia, entered Mines Channel, and +anchored off Cape Fendu, now Anglicised into the uneuphonious name of Cape +Split. De Poutrincourt landed on this headland, and ascended a steep and +lofty summit which is not less than four hundred feet in height. Moss +several feet in thickness, the growth of centuries, had gathered upon it, +and, when he stood upon the pinnacle, it yielded and trembled like gelatine +under his feet. He found himself in a critical situation. From this giddy +and unstable height he had neither the skill or courage to return. After +much anxiety, he was at length rescued by some of his more nimble sailors, +who managed to put a hawser over the summit, by means of which he safely +descended. They named it _Cap de Poutrincourt_. + +They proceeded as far as the head of the Basin of Mines, but their search +for mineral wealth was fruitless, beyond a few meagre specimens of copper. +Their labors were chiefly rewarded by the discovery of a moss-covered cross +in the last stages of decay, the relic of fishermen, or other Christian +mariners, who had, years before, been upon the coast. + +The exploring parties having returned to Port Royal, to their settlement in +what is now known as Annapolis Basin, the bulk of the colonists departed in +three barques for Canseau, on the 30th of July, while De Poutrincourt and +Champlain, with a complement of sailors, remained some days longer, that +they might take with them specimens of wheat still in the field and not yet +entirely ripe. + +On the 11th of August they likewise bade adieu to Port Royal amid the tears +of the assembled savages, with whom they had lived in friendship, and who +were disappointed and grieved at their departure. In passing round the +peninsula of Nova Scotia in their little shallop, it was necessary to keep +close in upon the shore, which enabled Champlain, who had not before been +upon the coast east of La Hève, to make a careful survey from that point to +Canseau, the results of which are fully stated in his notes, and delineated +on his map of 1613. + +On the 3d of September, the "Jonas," bearing away the little French colony, +sailed out of the harbor of Canseau, and, directing its course towards the +shores of France, arrived at Saint Malo on the 1st of October, 1607. + +Champlain's explorations on what may be strictly called the Atlantic coast +of North America were now completed. He had landed at La Hève in Nova +Scotia on the 8th of May, 1604, and had consequently been in the country +three years and nearly four months. During this period he had carefully +examined the whole shore from Canseau, the eastern limit of Nova Scotia, to +the Vineyard Sound on the southern boundaries of Massachusetts. This was +the most ample, accurate, and careful survey of this region which was made +during the whole period from the discovery of the continent in 1497 down to +the establishment of the English colony at Plymouth in 1620. A numerous +train of navigators had passed along the coast of New England: Sebastian +Cabot, Estévan Gomez, Jean Alfonse, André Thevet, John Hawkins, Bartholomew +Gosnold, Martin Pring, George Weymouth, Henry Hudson, John Smith, and the +rest, but the knowledge of the coast which we obtain from them is +exceedingly meagre and unsatisfactory, especially as compared with that +contained in the full, specific, and detailed descriptions, maps, and +drawings left us by this distinguished pioneer in the study and +illustration of the geography of the New England coast. [57] + +The winter of 1607-8 Champlain passed in France, where he was pleasantly +occupied in social recreations which were especially agreeable to him after +an absence of more than three years, and in recounting to eager listeners +his experiences in the New World. He took an early opportunity to lay +before Monsieur de Monts the results of the explorations which he had made +in La Cadie since the departure of the latter from Annapolis Basin in the +autumn of 1605, illustrating his narrative by maps and drawings which he +had prepared of the bays and harbors on the coast of Nova Scotia, New +Brunswick, and New England. + +While most men would have been disheartened by the opposition which he +encountered, the mind of De Monts was, nevertheless, rekindled by the +recitals of Champlain with fresh zeal in the enterprise which he had +undertaken. The vision of building up a vast territorial establishment, +contemplated by his charter of 1604, with his own personal aggrandizement +and that of his family, had undoubtedly vanished. But he clung, +nevertheless, with extraordinary tenacity to his original purpose of +planting a colony in the New World. This he resolved to do in the face of +many obstacles, and notwithstanding the withdrawment of the royal +protection and bounty. The generous heart of Henry IV. was by no means +insensible to the merits of his faithful subject, and, on his solicitation, +he granted to him letters-patent for the exclusive right of trade in +America, but for the space only of a single year. With this small boon from +the royal hand, De Monts hastened to fit out two vessels for the +expedition. One was to be commanded by Pont Gravé, who was to devote his +undivided attention to trade with the Indians for furs and peltry; the +other was to convey men and material for a colonial plantation. + +Champlain, whose energy, zeal, and prudence had impressed themselves upon +the mind of De Monts, was appointed lieutenant of the expedition, and +intrusted with the civil administration, having a sufficient number of men +for all needed defence against savage intruders, Basque fisher men, or +interloping fur-traders. + +On the 13th of April, 1608, Champlain left the port of Honfleur, and +arrived at the harbor of Tadoussac on the 3d of June. Here he found Pont +Gravé, who had preceded him by a few days in the voyage, in trouble with a +Basque fur-trader. The latter had persisted in carrying on his traffic, +notwithstanding the royal commission to the contrary, and had succeeded in +disabling Pont Gravé, who had but little power of resistance, killing one +of his men, seriously wounding Pont Gravé himself, as well as several +others, and had forcibly taken possession of his whole armament. + +When Champlain had made full inquiries into all the circumstances, he saw +clearly that the difficulty must be compromised; that the exercise of force +in overcoming the intruding Basque would effectually break up his plans for +the year, and bring utter and final ruin upon his undertaking. He wisely +decided to pocket the insult, and let justice slumber for the present. He +consequently required the Basque, who began to see more clearly the +illegality of his course, to enter into a written agreement with Pont Gravé +that neither should interfere with the other while they remained in the +country, and that they should leave their differences to be settled in the +courts on their return to France. + +Having thus poured oil upon the troubled waters, Champlain proceeded to +carry out his plans for the location and establishment of his colony. The +difficult navigation of the St. Lawrence above Tadoussac was well known to +him. The dangers of its numberless rocks, sand-bars, and fluctuating +channels had been made familiar to him by the voyage of 1603. He +determined, therefore, to leave his vessel in the harbor of Tadoussac, and +construct a small barque of twelve or fourteen tons, in which to ascend the +river and fix upon a place of settlement. + +While the work was in progress, Champlain reconnoitred the neighborhood, +collecting much geographical information from the Indians relating to Lake +St. John and a traditionary salt sea far to the north, exploring the +Saguenay for some distance, of which he has given us a description so +accurate and so carefully drawn that it needs little revision after the +lapse of two hundred and seventy years. + +On the last of June, the barque was completed, and Champlain, with a +complement of men and material, took his departure. As he glided along in +his little craft, he was exhilarated by the fragrance of the atmosphere, +the bright coloring of the foliage, the bold, picturesque scenery that +constantly revealed itself on both sides of the river. The lofty mountains, +the expanding valleys, the luxuriant forests, the bold headlands, the +enchanting little bays and inlets, and the numerous tributaries bursting +into the broad waters of the St. Lawrence, were all carefully examined and +noted in his journal. The expedition seemed more like a holiday excursion +than the grave prelude to the founding of a city to be renowned in the +history of the continent. + +On the fourth day, they approached the site of the present city of Quebec. +The expanse of the river had hitherto been from eight to thirteen miles. +Here a lofty headland, approaching from the interior, advances upon the +river and forces it into a narrow channel of three-fourths of a mile in +width. The river St. Charles, a small stream flowing from the northwest, +uniting here with the St. Lawrence, forms a basin below the promontory, +spreading out two miles in one direction and four in another. The rocky +headland, jutting out upon the river, rises up nearly perpendicularly, and +to a height of three hundred and forty-five feet, commanding from its +summit a view of water, forest and mountain of surpassing grandeur and +beauty. A narrow belt of fertile land formed by the crumbling _débris_ of +ages, stretches along between the water's edge and the base of the +precipice, and was then covered with a luxurious growth of nut-trees. The +magnificent basin below, the protecting wall of the headland in the rear, +the deep water of the river in front, rendered this spot peculiarly +attractive. Here on this narrow plateau, Champlain resolved to place his +settlement, and forthwith began the work of felling trees, excavating +cellars, and constructing houses. + +On the 3d day of July, 1608, Champlain laid the foundation of Quebec. The +name which he gave to it had been applied to it by the savages long before. +It is derived from the Algonquin word _quebio_, or _quebec_, signifying a +_narrowing_, and was descriptive of the form which the river takes at that +place, to which we have already referred. + +A few days after their arrival, an event occurred of exciting interest to +Champlain and his little colony. One of their number, Jean du Val, an +abandoned wretch, who possessed a large share of that strange magnetic +power which some men have over the minds of others, had so skilfully +practised upon the credulity of his comrades that he had drawn them all +into a scheme which, aside from its atrocity, was weak and ill-contrived at +every point It was nothing less than a plan to assassinate Champlain, seize +the property belonging to the expedition, and sell it to the Basque +fur-traders at Tadoussac, under the hallucination that they should be +enriched by the pillage. They had even entered into a solemn compact, and +whoever revealed the secret was to be visited by instant death. Their +purpose was to seize Champlain in an unguarded moment and strangle him, or +to shoot him in the confusion of a false alarm to be raised in the night by +themselves. But before the plan was fully ripe for execution, a barque +unexpectedly arrived from Tadoussac with an instalment of utensils and +provisions for the colony. One of the men, Antoine Natel, who had entered +into the conspiracy with reluctance, and had been restrained from a +disclosure by fear, summoned courage to reveal the plot to the pilot of the +boat, first securing from him the assurance that he should be shielded from +the vengeance of his fellow-conspirators. The secret was forthwith made +known to Champlain, who, by a stroke of finesse, placed himself beyond +danger before he slept. At his suggestion, the four leading spirits of the +plot were invited by one of the sailors to a social repast on the barque, +at which two bottles of wine which he pretended had been given him at +Tadoussac were to be uncorked. In the midst of the festivities, the "four +worthy heads of the conspiracy," as Champlain satirically calls them, were +suddenly clapped into irons. It was now late in the evening, but Champlain +nevertheless summoned all the rest of the men into his presence, and +offered them a full pardon, on condition that they would disclose the whole +scheme and the motives which had induced them to engage in it. This they +were eager to do, as they now began to comprehend the dangerous compact +into which they had entered, and the peril which threatened their own +lives. These preliminary investigations rendered it obvious to Champlain +that grave consequences must follow, and he therefore proceeded with great +caution. + +The next day, he took the depositions of the pardoned men, carefully +reducing them to writing. He then departed for Tadoussac, taking the four +conspirators with him. On consultation, he decided to leave them there, +where they could be more safely guarded until. Pont Gravé and the principal +men of the expedition could return with them to Quebec, where he proposed +to give them a more public and formal trial. This was accordingly done. The +prisoners were duly confronted with the witnesses. They denied nothing, but +freely admitted their guilt. With the advice and concurrence of Pont Gravé, +the pilot, surgeon, mate, boatswain, and others, Champlain condemned the +four conspirators to be hung; three of them, however, to be sent home for a +confirmation or revision of their sentence by the authorities in France, +while the sentence of Jean Du Val, the arch-plotter of the malicious +scheme, was duly executed in their presence, with all the solemn forms and +ceremonies usual on such occasions. Agreeably to a custom of that period, +the ghastly head of Du Val was elevated on the highest pinnacle of the fort +at Quebec, looking down and uttering its silent warning to the busy +colonists below; the grim Signal to all beholders, that "the way of the +transgressor is hard." + +The catastrophe, had not the plot been nipped in the bud, would have been +sure to take place. The final purpose of the conspirators might not have +been realized; it must have been defeated at a later stage; but the hand of +Du Val, prompted by a malignant nature, was nerved to strike a fatal blow, +and the life of Champlain would have been sacrificed at the opening of the +tragic scene. + +The punishment of Du Val, in its character and degree, was not only +agreeable to the civil policy of the age, but was necessary for the +protection of life and the maintenance of order and discipline in the +colony. A conspiracy on land, under the present circumstances, was as +dangerous as a mutiny at sea; and the calm, careful, and dignified +procedure of Champlain in firmly visiting upon the criminal a severe though +merited punishment, reveals the wisdom, prudence, and humanity which were +prominent elements in his mental and moral constitution. + +ENDNOTES: + +56. _Membertou_. See Pierre Biard's account of his death in 1611. + _Relations des Jésuites_. Quebec ed, Vol. I. p. 32. + +57. Had the distinguished navigators who early visited the coasts of North + America illustrated their narratives by drawings and maps, it would + have added greatly to their value. Capt. John Smith's map, though + necessarily indefinite and general, is indispensable to the + satisfactory study of his still more indefinite "Description of New + England." It is, perhaps, a sufficient apology for the vagueness of + Smith's statements, and therefore it ought to be borne in mind, that + his work was originally written, probably, from memory, at least for + the most part, while he was a prisoner on board a French man-of-war in + 1615. This may be inferred from the following statement of Smith + himself. In speaking of the movement of the French fleet, he says: + "Still we spent our time about the Iles neere _Fyall_: where to keepe + my perplexed thoughts from too much meditation of my miserable estate, + I writ this discourse" _Vide Description of New England_ by Capt. John + Smith, London, 1616. + + While the descriptions of our coast left by Champlain are invaluable to + the historian and cannot well be overestimated, the process of making + these surveys, with his profound love of such explorations and + adventures, must have given him great personal satisfaction and + enjoyment It would be difficult to find any region of similar extent + that could offer, on a summer's excursion, so much beauty to his eager + and critical eye as this. The following description of the Gulf of + Maine, which comprehends the major part of the field surveyed by + Champlain, that lying between the headlands of Cape Sable and Cape Cod, + gives an excellent idea of the infinite variety and the unexpected and + marvellous beauties that are ever revealing themselves to the voyager + as he passes along our coast.-- + + "This shoreland is also remarkable, being so battered and frayed by sea + and storm, and worn perhaps by arctic currents and glacier beds, that + its natural front of some 250 miles is multiplied to an extent of not + less than 2,500 miles of salt-water line; while at an average distance + of about three miles from the mainland, stretches a chain of outposts + consisting of more than three hundred islands, fragments of the main, + striking in their diversity on the west; low, wooded and grassy to the + water's edge, and rising eastward through bolder types to the crowns + and cliffs of Mount Desert and Quoddy Head, an advancing series from + beauty to sublimity: and behind all these are deep basins and broad + river-mouths, affording convenient and spacious harbors, in many of + which the navies of nations might safely ride at anchor.... Especially + attractive was the region between the Piscataqua and Penobscot in its + marvellous beauty of shore and sea, of island and inlet, of bay and + river and harbor, surpassing any other equally extensive portion of the + Atlantic coast, and compared by travellers earliest and latest, with + the famed archipelago of the Aegean." _Vide Maine, Her Place in + History_, by Joshua L. Chamberlain, LL D, President of Bowdoin College, + Augusta, 1877, pp. 4-5. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ERECTION OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--THE SCURVY AND THE STARVING SAVAGES.-- +DISCOVERY OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN, AND THE BATTLE AT TICONDEROGA.--CRUELTIES +INFLICTED ON PRISONERS OF WAR, AND THE FESTIVAL AFTER VICTORY.-- +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS INTERVIEW WITH HENRY IV.--VOYAGE TO +NEW FRANCE AND PLANS OF DISCOVERY.--BATTLE WITH THE IROQUOIS NEAR THE MOUTH +OF THE RICHELIEU.--REPAIR OF BUILDINGS AT QUEBEC.--NEWS OF THE +ASSASSINATION OF HENRY IV.--CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN TO FRANCE AND HIS CONTRACT +OF MARRIAGE.--VOYAGE TO QUEBEC IN 1611. + +On the 18th of September, 1608, Pont Gravé, having obtained his cargo of +furs and peltry, sailed for France. + +The autumn was fully occupied by Champlain and his little band of colonists +in completing the buildings and in making such other provisions as were +needed against the rigors of the approaching winter. From the forest trees +beams were hewed into shape with the axe, boards and plank were cut from +the green wood with the saw, walls were reared from the rough stones +gathered at the base of the cliff, and plots of land were cleared near the +settlement, where wheat and rye were sown and grapevines planted, which +successfully tested the good qualities of the soil and climate. + +Three lodging-houses were erected on the northwest angle formed by the +junction of the present streets St. Peter and Sous le Fort, near or on the +site of the Church of Notre Dame. Adjoining, was a store-house. The whole +was, surrounded by a moat fifteen feet wide and six feet deep, thus giving +the settlement the character of a fort; a wise precaution against a sudden +attack of the treacherous savages. [58] + +At length the sunny days of autumn were gone, and the winter, with its +fierce winds and its penetrating frosts and deep banks of snow, was upon +them. Little occupation could be furnished for the twenty-eight men that +composed the colony. Their idleness soon brought a despondency that hung +like a pall upon their spirits. In February, disease made its approach. It +had not been expected. Every defence within their knowledge had been +provided against it. Their houses were closely sealed and warm; their +clothing was abundant; their food nutritious and plenty. But a diet too +exclusively of salt meat had, notwithstanding, in the opinion of Champlain, +and we may add the want, probably, of exercise and the presence of bad air, +induced the _mal de la terre_ or scurvy, and it made fearful havoc with his +men. Twenty, five out of each seven of their whole number, had been carried +to their graves before the middle of April, and half of the remaining eight +had been attacked by the loathsome scourge. + +While the mind of Champlain was oppressed by the suffering and death that +were at all times present in their abode, his sympathies were still further +taxed by the condition of the savages, who gathered in great numbers about +the settlement, in the most abject misery and in the last stages of +starvation. As Champlain could only furnish them, from his limited stores, +temporary and partial relief, it was the more painful to see them slowly +dragging their feeble frames about in the snow, gathering up and devouring +with avidity discarded meat in which the process of decomposition was far +advanced, and which was already too potent with the stench of decay to be +approached by his men. + +Beyond the ravages of disease [59] and the starving Indians, Champlain adds +nothing more to complete the gloomy picture of his first winter in Quebec. +The gales of wind that swept round the wall of precipice that protected +them in the rear, the drifts of snow that were piled up in fresh +instalments with every storm about their dwelling, the biting frost, more +piercing and benumbing than they had ever experienced before, the unceasing +groans of the sick within, the semi-weekly procession bearing one after +another of their diminishing numbers to the grave, the mystery that hung +over the disease, and the impotency of all remedies, we know were prominent +features in the picture. But the imagination seeks in vain for more than a +single circumstance that could throw upon it a beam of modifying and +softening light, and that was the presence of the brave Champlain, who bore +all without a murmur, and, we may be sure, without a throb of unmanly fear +or a sensation of cowardly discontent. + +But the winter, as all winters do, at length melted reluctantly away, and +the spring came with its verdure, and its new life. The spirits of the +little remnant of a colony began to revive. Eight of the twenty-eight with +which the winter began were still surviving. Four had escaped attack, and +four were rejoicing convalescents. + +On the 5th of June, news came that Pont Gravé had arrived from France, and +was then at Tadoussac, whither Champlain immediately repaired to confer +with him, and particularly to make arrangements at the earliest possible +moment for an exploring expedition into the interior, an undertaking which +De Monts had enjoined upon him, and which was not only agreeable to his own +wishes, but was a kind of enterprise which had been a passion with him from +his youth. + +In anticipation of a tour of exploration during the approaching summer, +Champlain had already ascertained from the Indians that, lying far to the +southwest, was an extensive lake, famous among the savages, containing many +fair islands, and surrounded by a beautiful and productive country. Having +expressed a desire to visit this region, the Indians readily offered to act +as guides, provided, nevertheless, that he would aid them in a warlike raid +upon their enemies, the Iroquois, the tribe known to us as the Mohawks, +whose, homes were beyond the lake in question. Champlain without hesitation +acceded to the condition exacted, but with little appreciation, as we +confidently believe, of the bitter consequences that were destined to +follow the alliance thus inaugurated; from which, in after years, it was +inexpedient, if not impossible, to recede. + +Having fitted out a shallop, Champlain left Quebec on his tour of +exploration on the 18th of June, 1609, with eleven men, together with a +party of Montagnais, a tribe of Indians who, in their hunting and fishing +excursions, roamed over an indefinite region on the north side of the St. +Lawrence, but whose headquarters were at Tadoussac. After ascending the St +Lawrence about sixty miles, he came upon an encampment of two hundred or +three hundred savages, Hurons [60] and Algonquins, the former dwelling on +the borders of the lake of the same name, the latter on the upper waters of +the Ottawa. They had learned something of the French from a son of one of +their chiefs, who had been at Quebec the preceding autumn, and were now on +their way to enter into an alliance with the French against the Iroquois. +After formal negotiations and a return to Quebec to visit the French +settlement and witness the effect of their firearms, of which they had +heard and which greatly excited their curiosity, and after the usual +ceremonies of feasting and dancing, the whole party proceeded up the river +until they reached the mouth of the Richelieu. Here they remained two days, +as guests of the Indians, feasting upon fish, venison, and water-fowl. + +While these festivities were in progress, a disagreement arose among the +savages, and the bulk of them, including the women, returned to their +homes. Sixty warriors, however, some from each of the three allied tribes, +proceeded up the Richelieu with Champlain. At the Falls of Chambly, finding +it impossible for the shallop to pass them, he directed the pilot to return +with it to Quebec, leaving only two men from the crew to accompany him on +the remainder of the expedition. From this point, Champlain and his two +brave companions entrusted themselves to the birch canoe of the savages. +For a short distance, the canoes, twenty-four in all, were transported by +land. The fall and rapids, extending as far as St. John, were at length +passed. They then proceeded up the river, and, entering the lake which now +bears the name of Champlain, crept along the western bank, advancing after +the first few days only in the night, hiding themselves during the day in +the thickets on the shore to avoid the observation of their enemies, whom +they were now liable at any moment to meet. + +On the evening of the 29th of July, at about ten o'clock, when the allies +were gliding noiselessly along in restrained silence, as they approached +the little cape that juts out into the lake at Ticonderoga, near where Fort +Carillon was afterwards erected by the French, and where its ruins are +still to be seen, [61] they discovered a flotilla of heavy canoes, of oaken +bark, containing not far from two hundred Iroquois warriors, armed and +impatient for conflict. A furor and frenzy as of so many enraged tigers +instantly seized both parties. Champlain and his allies withdrew a short +distance, an arrow's range from the shore, fastening their canoes by poles +to keep them together, while the Iroquois hastened to the water's edge, +drew up their canoes side by side, and began to fell trees and construct a +barricade, which they were well able to accomplish with marvellous facility +and skill. Two boats were sent out to inquire if the Iroquois desired to +fight, to which they replied that they wanted nothing so much, and, as it +was now dark, at sunrise the next morning they would give them battle. The +whole night was spent by both parties in loud and tumultuous boasting, +berating each other in the roundest terms which their savage vocabulary +could furnish, insultingly charging each other with cowardice and weakness, +and declaring that they would prove the truth of their assertions to their +utter ruin the next morning. + +When the sun began to gild the distant mountain-tops, the combatants were +ready for the fray. Champlain and his two companions, each lying low in +separate canoes of the Montagnais, put on, as best they could, the light +armor in use at that period, and, taking the short hand-gun, or arquebus, +went on shore, concealing themselves as much as possible from the enemy. As +soon as all had landed, the two parties hastily approached each other, +moving with a firm and determined tread. The allies, who had become fully +aware of the deadly character of the hand-gun and were anxious to see an +exhibition of its mysterious power, promptly opened their ranks, and +Champlain marched forward in front, until he was within thirty paces of the +Iroquois. When they saw him, attracted by his pale face and strange armor, +they halted and gazed at him in a calm bewilderment for some seconds. Three +Iroquois chiefs, tall and athletic, stood in front, and could be easily +distinguished by the lofty plumes that waved above their heads. They began +at once to make ready for a discharge of arrows. At the same instant, +Champlain, perceiving this movement, levelled his piece, which had been +loaded with four balls, and two chiefs fell dead, and another savage was +mortally wounded by the same shot. At this, the allies raised a shout +rivalling thunder in its stunning effect. From both sides the whizzing +arrows filled the air. The two French arquebusiers, from their ambuscade in +the thicket, immediately attacked in flank, pouring a deadly fire upon the +enemy's right. The explosion of the firearms, altogether new to the +Iroquois, the fatal effects that instantly followed, their chiefs lying +dead at their feet and others fast falling, threw them into a tumultuous +panic. They at once abandoned every thing, arms, provisions, boats, and +camp, and without any impediment, the naked savages fled through the forest +with the fleetness of the terrified deer. Champlain and his allies pursued +them a mile and a half, or to the first fall in the little stream that +connects Lake Champlain [62] and Lake George. [63] The victory was +complete. The allies gathered at the scene of conflict, danced and sang in +triumph, collected and appropriated the abandoned armor, feasted on the +provisions left by the Iroquois, and, within three hours, with ten or +twelve prisoners, were sailing down the lake on their homeward voyage. + +After they had rowed about eight leagues, according to Champlain's +estimate, they encamped for the night. A prevailing characteristic of the +savages on the eastern coast, in the early history of America, was the +barbarous cruelties which they inflicted upon their prisoners of war. [64] +They did not depart from their usual custom in the present instance. Having +kindled a fire, they selected a victim, and proceeded to excoriate his back +with red-hot burning brands, and to apply live coals to the ends of his +fingers, where they would give the most exquisite pain. They tore out his +finger-nails, and, with sharp slivers of wood, pierced his wrists and +rudely forced out the quivering sinews. They flayed off the skin from the +top of his head, [65] and poured upon the bleeding wound a stream of +boiling melted gum. Champlain remonstrated in vain. The piteous cries of +the poor, tormented victim excited his unavailing compassion, and he turned +away in anger and disgust. At length, when these inhuman tortures had been +carried as far as they desired, Champlain was permitted, at his earnest +request, with a musket-shot to put an end to his sufferings. But this was +not the termination of the horrid performance. The dead victim was hacked +in pieces, his heart severed into parts, and the surviving prisoners were +ordered to eat it. This was too revolting to their nature, degraded as it +was; they were forced, however, to take it into their mouths, but they +would do no more, and their guard of more compassionate Algonquins allowed +them to cast it into the lake. + +This exhibition of savage cruelty was not extraordinary, but according to +their usual custom. It was equalled, and, if possible, even surpassed, in +the treatment of captives generally, and especially of the Jesuit +missionaries in after years. [66] + +When the party arrived at the Falls of Chambly, the Hurons and Algonquins +left the river, in order to reach their homes by a shorter way, +transporting their canoes and effects over land to the St. Lawrence near +Montreal, while the rest continued their journey down the Richelieu and the +St. Lawrence to Tadoussac, where their families were encamped, waiting to +join in the usual ceremonies and rejoicings after a great victory. + +When the returning warriors approached Tadoussac, they hung aloft on the +prow of their canoes the scalped heads of those whom they had slain, +decorated with beads which they had begged from the French for this +purpose, and with a savage grace presented these ghastly trophies to their +wives and daughters, who, laying aside their garments, eagerly swam out to +obtain the precious mementoes, which they hung about their necks and bore +rejoicing to the shore, where they further testified their satisfaction by +dancing and singing. + +After a few days, Champlain repaired to Quebec, and early in September +decided to return with Pont Gravé to France. All arrangements were speedily +made for that purpose. Fifteen men were left to pass the winter at Quebec, +in charge of Captain Pierre Chavin of Dieppe. On the 5th of September they +sailed from Tadoussac, and, lingering some days at Isle Percé, arrived at +Honfleur on the 13th of October, 1609. + +Champlain hastened immediately to Fontainebleau, to make a detailed report +of his proceedings to Sieur de Monts, who was there in official attendance +upon the king. [67] On this occasion he sought an audience also with Henry +IV., who had been his friend and patron from the time of his first voyage +to Canada in 1603. In addition to the new discoveries and observations +which he detailed to him, he exhibited a belt curiously wrought and inlaid +with porcupine-quills, the work of the savages, which especially drew forth +the king's admiration. He also presented two specimens of the scarlet +tanager, _Pyranga rubra_, a bird of great brilliancy of plumage and +peculiar to this continent, and likewise the head of a gar-pike, a fish of +singular characteristics, then known only in the waters of Lake Champlain. +[68] + +At this time De Monts was urgently seeking a renewal of his commission for +the monopoly of the fur-trade. In this Champlain was deeply interested. But +to this monopoly a powerful opposition arose, and all efforts at renewal +proved utterly fruitless. De Monts did not, however, abandon the enterprise +on which he had entered. Renewing his engagements with the merchants of +Rouen with whom he had already been associated, he resolved to send out in +the early spring, as a private enterprise and without any special +privileges or monopoly, two vessels with the necessary equipments for +strengthening his colony at Quebec and for carrying on trade as usual with +the Indians. + +Champlain was again appointed lieutenant, charged with the government and +management of the colony, with the expectation of passing the next winter +at Quebec, while Pont Gravé, as he had been before, was specially entrusted +with the commercial department of the expedition. + +They embarked at Honfleur, but were detained in the English Channel by bad +weather for some days. In the mean time Champlain was taken seriously ill, +the vessel needed additional ballast, and returned to port, and they did +not finally put to sea till the 8th of April. They arrived at Tadoussac on +the 26th of the same month, in the year 1610, and, two days later, sailed +for Quebec, where they found the commander, Captain Chavin, and the little +colony all in excellent health. + +The establishment at Quebec, it is to be remembered, was now a private +enterprise. It existed by no chartered rights, it was protected by no +exclusive authority. There was consequently little encouragement for its +enlargement beyond what was necessary as a base of commercial operations. +The limited cares of the colony left, therefore, to Champlain, a larger +scope for the exercise of his indomitable desire for exploration and +adventure. Explorations could not, however, be carried forward without the +concurrence and guidance of the savages by whom he was immediately +surrounded. Friendly relations existed between the French and the united +tribes of Montagnais, Hurons, and Algonquins, who occupied the northern +shores of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes. A burning hatred existed +between these tribes and the Iroquois, occupying the southern shores of the +same river. A deadly warfare was their chief employment, and every summer +each party was engaged either in repelling an invasion or in making one in +the territory of the other. Those friendly to Champlain were quite ready to +act as pioneers in his explorations and discoveries, but they expected and +demanded in return that he should give them active personal assistance in +their wars. Influenced, doubtless, by policy, the spirit of the age, and +his early education in the civil conflicts of France, Champlain did not +hesitate to enter into an alliance and an exchange of services on these +terms. + +In the preceding year, two journeys into distant regions had been planned +for exploration and discovery. One beginning at Three Rivers, was to +survey, under the guidance of the Montagnais, the river St. Maurice to its +source, and thence, by different channels and portages, reach Lake St. +John, returning by the Saguenay, making in the circuit a distance of not +less than eight hundred miles. The other plan was to explore, under the +direction of the Hurons and Algonquins, the vast country over which they +were accustomed to roam, passing up the Ottawa, and reaching in the end the +region of the copper mines on Lake Superior, a journey not less than twice +the extent of the former. + +Neither of these explorations could be undertaken the present year. Their +importance, however, to the future progress of colonization in New France +is sufficiently obvious. The purpose of making these surveys shows the +breadth and wisdom of Champlain's views, and that hardships or dangers were +not permitted to interfere with his patriotic sense of duty. + +Soon after his arrival at Quebec, the savages began to assemble to engage +in their usual summer's entertainment of making war upon the Iroquois. +Sixty Montagnais, equipped in their rude armor, were hastening to the +rendezvous which, by agreement made the year before, was to be at the mouth +of the Richelieu. [69] Hither were to come the three allied tribes, and +pass together up this river into Lake Champlain, the "gate" or war-path +through which these hostile clans were accustomed to make their yearly +pilgrimage to meet each other in deadly conflict. Sending forward four +barques for trading purposes, Champlain repaired to the mouth of the +Richelieu, and landed, in company with the Montagnais, on the Island St. +Ignace, on the 19th of June. While preparations were making to receive +their Algonquin allies from the region of the Ottawa, news came that they +had already arrived, and that they had discovered a hundred Iroquois +strongly barricaded in a log fort, which they had hastily thrown together +on the brink of the river not far distant, and to capture them the +assistance of all parties was needed without delay. Champlain, with four +Frenchmen and the sixty Montagnais, left the island in haste, passed over +to the mainland, where they left their canoes, and eagerly rushed through +the marshy forest a distance of two miles. Burdened with their heavy armor, +half consumed by mosquitoes which were so thick that they were scarcely +able to breathe, covered with mud and water, they at length stood before +the Iroquois fort. [70] It was a structure of logs laid one upon another, +braced and held together by posts coupled by withes, and of the usual +circular form. It offered a good protection in savage warfare. Even the +French arquebus discharged through the crevices did slow execution. + +It was obvious to Champlain that, to ensure victory, the fort must be +demolished. Huge trees, severed at the base, falling upon it, did not break +it down. At length, directed by Champlain, the savages approached under +their shields, tore away the supporting posts, and thus made a breach, into +which rushed the infuriated besiegers, and in hot haste finished their +deadly work. Fifteen of the Iroquois were taken prisoners; a few plunged +into the river and were drowned; the rest perished by musket-shots, +arrow-wounds, the tomahawk, and the war-club. Of the allied savages three +were killed and fifty wounded. Champlain himself did not escape altogether +unharmed. An arrow, armed with a sharp point of stone, pierced his ear and +neck, which he drew out with his own hand. One of his companions received a +similar wound in the arm. The victors scalped the dead as usual, +ornamenting the prows of their canoes with the bleeding heads of their +enemies, while they severed one of the bodies into quarters, to eat, as +they alleged, in revenge. + +The canoes of the savages and a French shallop having come to the scene of +this battle, all soon embarked and returned to the Island of St. Ignace. +Here the allies, joined by eighty Huron warriors who had arrived too late +to participate in the conflict, remained three days, celebrating their +victory by dancing, singing, and the administration of the usual punishment +upon their prisoners of war. This consisted in a variety of exquisite +tortures, similar to those inflicted the year before, after the victory on +Lake Champlain, horrible and sickening in all their features, and which +need not be spread upon these pages. From these tortures Champlain would +gladly have snatched the poor wretches, had it been in his power, but in +this matter the savages would brook no interference. There was a solitary +exception, however, in a fortunate young Iroquois who fell to him in the +division of prisoners. He was treated with great kindness, but it did not +overcome his excessive fear and distrust, and he soon sought an opportunity +and escaped to his home. [71] + +When the celebration of the victory had been completed, the Indians +departed to their distant abodes. Champlain, however, before their +departure, very wisely entered into an agreement that they should receive +for the winter a young Frenchman who was anxious to learn their language, +and, in return, he was himself to take a young Huron, at their special +request, to pass the winter in France. This judicious arrangement, in which +Champlain was deeply interested and which he found some difficulty in +accomplishing, promised an important future advantage in extending the +knowledge of both parties, and in strengthening on the foundation of +personal experience their mutual confidence and friendship. + +After the departure of the Indians, Champlain returned to Quebec, and +proceeded to put the buildings in repair and to see that all necessary +arrangements were made for the safety and comfort of the colony during the +next winter. + +On the 4th of July, Des Marais, in charge of the vessel belonging to De +Monts and his company, which had been left behind and had been expected +soon to follow, arrived at Quebec, bringing the intelligence that a small +revolution had taken place in Brouage, the home of Champlain, that the +Protestants had been expelled, and an additional guard of soldiers had been +placed in the garrison. Des Marais also brought the startling news that +Henry IV. had been assassinated on the 14th of May. Champlain was +penetrated by this announcement with the deepest sorrow. He fully saw how +great a public calamity had fallen upon his country. France had lost, by an +ignominious blow, one of her ablest and wisest sovereigns, who had, by his +marvellous power, gradually united and compacted the great interests of the +nation, which had been shattered and torn by half a century of civil +conflicts and domestic feuds. It was also to him a personal loss. The king +had taken a special interest in his undertakings, had been his patron from +the time of his first voyage to New France in 1603, had sustained him by an +annual pension, and on many occasions had shown by word and deed that he +fully appreciated the great value of his explorations in his American +domains. It was difficult to see how a loss so great both to his country +and himself could be repaired. A cloud of doubt and uncertainty hung over +the future. The condition of the company, likewise, under whose auspices he +was acting, presented at this time no very encouraging features. The +returns from the fur-trade had been small, owing to the loss of the +monopoly which the company had formerly enjoyed, and the excessive +competition which free-trade had stimulated. Only a limited attention had +as yet been given to the cultivation of the soil. Garden vegetables had +been placed in cultivation, together with small fields of Indian corn, +wheat, rye, and barley. These attempts at agriculture were doubtless +experiments, while at the fame time they were useful in supplementing the +stores needed for the colony's consumption. + +Champlain's personal presence was not required at Quebec during the winter, +as no active enterprise could be carried forward in that inclement season, +and he decided, therefore, to return to France. The little colony now +consisted of sixteen men, which he placed in charge, during his absence, of +Sieur Du Parc. He accordingly left Tadoussac on the 13th of August, and +arrived at Honfleur in France on the 27th of September, 1610. + +During the autumn of this year, while residing in Paris, Champlain became +attached to Hélène Boullé, the daughter of Nicholas Boullé, secretary of +the king's chamber. She was at that time a mere child, and of too tender +years to act for herself, particularly in matters of so great importance as +those which relate to marital relations. However, agreeably to a custom not +infrequent at that period, a marriage contract [72] was entered into on the +27th of December with her parents, in which, nevertheless, it was +stipulated that the nuptials should not take place within at least two +years from that date. The dowry of the future bride was fixed at six +thousand livres _tournois_, three fourths of which were paid and receipted +for by Champlain two days after the signing of the contract. The marriage +was afterward consummated, and Helen Boullé, as his wife, accompanied +Champlain to Quebec, in 1620, as we shall see in the sequel. + +Notwithstanding the discouragements of the preceding year and the small +prospect of future success, De Monts and the merchants associated with him +still persevered in sending another expedition, and Champlain left Honfleur +for New France on the first day of March, 1611. Unfortunately, the voyage +had been undertaken too early in the season for these northern waters, and +long before they reached the Grand Banks, they encountered ice-floes of the +most dangerous character. Huge blocks of crystal, towering two hundred feet +above the surface of the water, floated at times near them, and at others +they were surrounded and hemmed in by vast fields of ice extending as far +as the eye could reach. Amid these ceaseless perils, momentarily expecting +to be crushed between the floating islands wheeling to and fro about them, +they struggled with the elements for nearly two months, when finally they +reached Tadoussac on the 13th of May. + +ENDNOTES: + +58. The situation of Quebec and an engraved representation of the buildings + may be seen by reference to Vol. II. pp. 175, 183. + +59. Scurvy, or _mal de la terre_.--_Vide_ Vol. II. note 105. + +60. _Hurons_ "The word Huron comes from the French, who seeing these + Indians with the hair cut very short, and standing up in a strange + fashion, giving them a fearful air, cried out, the first time they saw + them, _Quelle hures!_ what boars' heads! and so got to call them + Hurons."--Charlevoix's _His. New France_, Shea's Trans Vol. II. p. 71. + _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. Vol. I. 1639, P 51; also note + 321, Vol. II. of this work, for brief notice of the Algonquins and + other tribes. + +61. For the identification of the site of this battle, see Vol. II p. 223, + note 348. It is eminently historical ground. Near it Fort Carrillon was + erected by the French in 1756. Here Abercrombie was defeated by + Montcalm in 1758. Lord Amherst captured the fort in 1759 Again it was + taken from the English by the patriot Ethan Alien in 1775. It was + evacuated by St. Clair when environed by Burgoyne in 1777, and now for + a complete century it has been visited by the tourist as a ruin + memorable for its many historical associations. + +62. This lake, discovered and explored by Champlain, is ninety miles in + length. Through its centre runs the boundary line between the State of + New York and that of Vermont. From its discovery to the present time it + has appropriately borne the honored name of Champlain. For its Indian + name, _Caniaderiguarunte_, see Vol. II. note 349. According to Mr. Shea + the Mohawk name of Lake Champlain is _Caniatagaronte_.--_Vide Shea's + Charlevoix_. Vol. II. p. 18. + + Lake Champlain and the Hudson River were both discovered the same year, + and were severally named after the distinguished navigators by whom + they were explored. Champlain completed his explorations at + Ticonderoga, on the 30th of July, 1609, and Hudson reached the highest + point made by him on the river, near Albany, on the 22d of September of + the same year.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 219. Also _The Third Voyage of + Master Henry Hudson_, written by Robert Ivet of Lime-house, + _Collections of New York His. Society_, Vol. I. p. 140. + +63. _Lake George_. The Jesuit Father, Isaac Jogues, having been summoned in + 1646 to visit the Mohawks, to attend to the formalities of ratifying a + treaty of peace which had been concluded with them, passing by canoe up + the Richelieu, through Lake Champlain, and arriving at the end of Lake + George on the 29th of May, the eve of Corpus Christi, a festival + celebrated by the Roman Church on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, in + honor of the Holy Eucharist or the Lord's Supper, named this lake LAC + DU SAINT SACREMENT. The following is from the Jesuit Relation of 1646 + by Pere Hierosme Lalemant. Ils arriuèrent la veille du S. Sacrement au + bout du lac qui est ioint au grand lac de Champlain. Les Iroquois le + nomment Andiatarocté, comme qui diroit, là où le lac se ferme. Le Pere + le nomma le lac du S. Sacrement--_Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. + Vol. II. 1646, p. 15. + + Two important facts are here made perfectly plain; viz. that the + original Indian name of the lake was _Andtatarocté_, and that the + French named it Lac du Saint Sacrement because they arrived on its + shores on the eve of the festival celebrated in honor of the Eucharist + or the Lord's Supper. Notwithstanding this very plain statement, it has + been affirmed without any historical foundation whatever, that the + original Indian name of this lake was _Horican_, and that the Jesuit + missionaries, having selected it for the typical purification of + baptism on account of its limpid waters, named it _Lac du Saint + Sacrement_. This perversion of history originated in the extraordinary + declaration of Mr. James Fenimore Cooper, in his novel entitled "The + Last of the Mohicans," in which these two erroneous statements are + given as veritable history. This new discovery by Cooper was heralded + by the public journals, scholars were deceived, and the bold imposition + was so successful that it was even introduced into a meritorious poem + in which the Horican of the ancient tribes and the baptismal waters of + the limpid lake are handled with skill and effect. Twenty-five years + after the writing of his novel, Mr. Cooper's conscience began seriously + to trouble him, and he publicly confessed, in a preface to "The Last of + the Mohicans," that the name Horican had been first applied to the lake + by himself, and without any historical authority. He is silent as to + the reason he had assigned for the French name of the lake, which was + probably an assumption growing out of his ignorance of its + meaning--_Vide The Last of The Mohicans_, by J. Fenimore Cooper, + Gregory's ed., New York, 1864, pp ix-x and 12. + +64. "There are certain general customs which mark the California Indians, + as, the non-use of torture on prisoners of war," &c.--_Vide The Tribes + of California_, by Stephen Powers, in _Contributions to North American + Ethnology_, Vol. III. p. 15. _Tribes of Washington and Oregon_, by + George Gibbs, _idem_, Vol. I. p. 192. + +65. "It has been erroneously asserted that the practice of scalping did not + prevail among the Indians before the advent of Europeans. In 1535, + Carrier saw five scalps at Quebec, dried and stretched on hoops. In + 1564, Laudonniere saw them among the Indians of Florida. The Algonquins + of New England and Nova Scotia were accustomed to cut off and carry + away the head, which they afterwards scalped. Those of Canada, it + seems, sometimes scalped the dead bodies on the field. The Algonquin + practice of carrying off heads as trophies is mentioned by Lalemant, + Roger Williams, Lescarbot, and Champlain."--_Vide Pioneers of France in + the New World_, by Francis Parkman, Boston, 1874, p. 322. The practice + of the tribes on the Pacific coast is different "In war they do not + take scalps, but decapitate the slain and bring in the heads as + trophies."--_Contributions to Am. Ethnology_, by Stephen Powers, + Washington, 1877, Vol. III. pp. 21, 221. _Vide_ Vol. I. p. 192. The + Yuki are an exception. Vol. III. p. 129. + +66. For an account of the sufferings of Brébeuf, Lalemant, and Jogues, see + _History of Catholic Missions_, by John Gilmary Shea, pp. 188, 189, + 217. + +67. He was gentleman in ordinary to the king's chamber. "Gentil-homme + ordinaire de nôstre Chambre."--_Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de + Monts, Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, + 1612, p. 432. + +68. Called by the Indians _chaousarou_. For a full account of this + crustacean _vide_ Vol. II. note 343. + +69. The mouth of the Richelieu was the usual place of meeting. In 1603, the + allied tribes were there when Champlain ascended the St Lawrence. They + had a fort, which he describes.--_Vide postea_, p 243. + +70. Champlain's description does not enable us to identify the place of + this battle with exactness. It will be observed, if we refer to his + text, that, leaving the island of St Ignace, and going half a league, + crossing the river, they landed, when they were plainly on the mainland + near the mouth of the Richelieu. They then went half a league, and + finding themselves outrun by their Indian guides and lost, they called + to two savages, whom they saw going through the woods, to guide them. + Going a _short distance_, they were met by a messenger from the scene + of conflict, to urge them to hasten forwards. Then, after going less + than an eighth of a league, they were within the sound of the voices of + the combatants at the fort These distances are estimated without + measurement, and, of course, are inexact: but, putting the distances + mentioned altogether, the journey through the woods to the fort was + apparently a little more than two miles. Had they followed the course + of the river, the distance would probably have been somewhat more: + perhaps nearly three miles. Champlain does not positively say that the + fort was on the Richelieu, but the whole narrative leaves no doubt that + such was the fact. This river was the avenue through which the Iroquois + were accustomed to come, and they would naturally encamp here where + they could choose their own ground, and where their enemies were sure + to approach them. If we refer to Champlain's illustration of _Fort des + Iroquois_, Vol. II. p. 241, we shall observe that the river is pictured + as comparatively narrow, which could hardly be a true representation if + it were intended for the St. Lawrence. The escaping Iroquois are + represented as swimming towards the right, which was probably in the + direction of their homes on the south, the natural course of their + retreat. The shallop of Des Prairies, who arrived late, is on the left + of the fort, at the exact point where he would naturally disembark if + he came up the Richelieu from the St. Lawrence. From a study of the + whole narrative, together with the map, we infer that the fort was on + the western bank of the Richelieu, between two and three miles from its + mouth. We are confident that its location cannot be more definitely + fixed. + +71. For a full account of the Indian treatment of prisoners, _vide antea_, + pp. 94,95. Also Vol. II. pp. 224-227, 244-246. + +72. _Vide Contrat de mariage de Samuel de Champlain, Oeuvres de Champlain_, + Quebec ed. Vol. VI., _Pièces Fustificatives_, p. 33. + + Among the early marriages not uncommon at that period, the following + are examples. César, the son of Henry IV., was espoused by public + ceremonies to the daughter of the Duke de Mercoeur in 1598. The + bridegroom was four years old and the bride-elect had just entered her + sixth year. The great Condé, by the urgency of his avaricious father, + was unwillingly married at the age of twenty, to Claire Clemence de + Maillé Brézé, the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, when she was but + thirteen years of age. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FUR-TRADE AT MONTREAL.--COMPETITION AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--NO +EXPLORATIONS.--CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO FRANCE.--REORGANIZATION OF THE +COMPANY.--COUNT DE SOISSONS, HIS DEATH.--PRINCE DE CONDÉ.--CHAMPLAIN'S +RETURN TO NEW FRANCE AND TRADE WITH THE INDIANS.--EXPLORATION AND DE +VIGNAN, THE FALSE GUIDE.--INDIAN CEREMONY AT CHAUDIÈRE FALLS. + +Champlain lost no time in hastening to Quebec, where he found Du Parc, whom +he had left in charge, and the colony in excellent health. The paramount +and immediate object which now engaged his attention was to secure for the +present season the fur-trade of the Indians. This furnished the chief +pecuniary support of De Monts's company, and was absolutely necessary to +its existence. He soon, therefore, took his departure for the Falls of St. +Louis, situated a short distance above Montreal, and now better known as La +Chine Rapids. In the preceding year, this place had been agreed upon as a +rendezvous by the friendly tribes. But, as they had not arrived, Champlain +proceeded to make a thorough exploration on both sides of the St. Lawrence, +extending his journeys more than twenty miles through the forests and along +the shores of the river, for the purpose of selecting a proper site for a +trading-house, with doubtless an ultimate purpose of making it a permanent +settlement. After a full survey, he finally fixed upon a point of land +which he named _La Place Royale_, situated within the present city of +Montreal, on the eastern side of the little brook Pierre, where it flows +into the St. Lawrence, at Point à Callière. On the banks of this small +stream there were found evidences that the land to the extent of sixty +acres had at some former period been cleared up and cultivated by the +savages, but more recently had been entirely abandoned on account of the +wars, as he learned from his Indian guides, in which they were incessantly +engaged. + +Near the spot which had thus been selected for a future settlement, +Champlain discovered a deposit of excellent clay, and, by way of +experiment, had a quantity of it manufactured into bricks, of which he made +a wall on the brink of the river, to test their power of resisting the +frosts and the floods. Gardens were also made and feeds sown, to prove the +quality of the soil. A weary month passed slowly away, with scarcely an +incident to break the monotony, except the drowning of two Indians, who had +unwisely attempted to pass the rapids in a bark canoe overloaded with +heron, which they had taken on an island above. In the mean time, Champlain +had been followed to his rendezvous by a herd of adventurers from the +maritime towns of France, who, stimulated by the freedom of trade, had +flocked after him in numbers out of all proportion to the amount of furs +which they could hope to obtain from the wandering bands of savages that +might chance to visit the St. Lawrence. The river was lined with these +voracious cormorants, anxiously watching the coming of the savages, all +impatient and eager to secure as large a share as possible of the uncertain +and meagre booty for which they had crossed the Atlantic. Fifteen or twenty +barques were moored along the shore, all seeking the best opportunity for +the display of the worthless trinkets for which they had avariciously hoped +to obtain a valuable cargo of furs. + +A long line of canoes was at length seen far in the distance. It was a +fleet of two hundred Hurons, who had swept down the rapids, and were now +approaching slowly and in a dignified and impressive order. On coming near, +they set up a simultaneous shout, the token of savage greeting, which made +the welkin ring. This salute was answered by a hundred French arquebuses +from barque and boat and shore. The unexpected multitude of the French, the +newness of the firearms to most of them, filled the savages with dismay. +They concealed their fear as well and as long as possible. They +deliberately built their cabins on the shore, but soon threw up a +barricade, then called a council at midnight, and finally, under pretence +of a beaver-hunt, suddenly removed above the rapids, where they knew the +French barques could not come. When they were thus in a place of safety, +they confessed to Champlain that they had faith in him, which they +confirmed by valuable gifts of furs, but none whatever in the grasping herd +that had followed him to the rendezvous. The trade, meagre in the +aggregate, divided among so many, had proved a loss to all. It was soon +completed, and the savages departed to their homes. Subsequently, +thirty-eight canoes, with eighty or a hundred Algonquin warriors, came to +the rendezvous. They brought, however, but a small quantity of furs, which +added little to the lucrative character of the summer's trade. + +The reader will bear in mind that Champlain was not here merely as the +superintendent and responsible agent of a trading expedition. This was a +subordinate purpose, and the result of circumstances which his principal +did not choose, but into which he had been unwillingly forced. It was +necessary not to overlook this interest in the present exigency, +nevertheless De Monts was sustained by an ulterior purpose of a far higher +and nobler character. He still entertained the hope that he should yet +secure a royal charter under which his aspirations for colonial enterprise +should have full scope, and that his ambition would be finally crowned with +the success which he had so long coveted, and for which he had so +assiduously labored. Champlain, who had been for many years the geographer +of the king, who had carefully reported, as he advanced into unexplored +regions, his surveys of the rivers, harbors, and lakes, and had given +faithful descriptions of the native inhabitants, knowledge absolutely +necessary as a preliminary step in laying the foundation of a French empire +in America, did not for a moment lose sight of this ulterior purpose. Amid +the commercial operations to which for the time being he was obliged to +devote his chief attention, he tried in vain to induce the Indians to +conduct an exploring party up the St. Maurice, and thus reach the +headwaters of the Saguenay, a journey which had been planned two years +before. They had excellent excuses to offer, and the undertaking was +necessarily deferred for the present. He, however, obtained much valuable +information from them in conversations, in regard to the source of the St. +Lawrence, the topography of the country which they inhabited, and even +drawings were executed by them to illustrate to him other regions which +they had personally visited. + +On the 18th of July, Champlain left the rendezvous, and arrived at Quebec +on the evening of the next day. Having ordered all necessary repairs at the +settlement, and, not unmindful of its adornment, planted rose-bushes about +it, and taking specimens of oak timber to exhibit in France, he left for +Tadoussac, and finally for France on the 11th of August, and arrived at +Rochelle on the 16th of September, 1611. + +Immediately on his arrival, Champlain repaired to the city of Pons, in +Saintonge, of which De Monts was governor, and laid before him the +Situation of his affairs at Quebec. De Monts still clung to the hope of +obtaining a royal commission for the exclusive right of trade, but his +associates were wholly disheartened by the competition and consequent +losses of the last year, and had the sagacity to see that there was no hope +of a remedy in the future. They accordingly declined to continue further +expenditures. De Monts purchased their interest in the establishment at +Quebec, and, notwithstanding the obstacles which had been and were still to +be encountered, was brave enough to believe that he could stem the tide +unaided and alone. He hastened to Paris to secure the much coveted +commission from the king. Important business, however, soon called him in +another direction, and the whole matter was placed in the hands of +Champlain, with the understanding that important modifications were to be +introduced into the constitution and management of the company. + +The burden thus unexpectedly laid upon Champlain was not a light one. His +experience and personal knowledge led him to appreciate more fully than any +one else the difficulties that environed the enterprise of planting a +colony in New France. He saw very clearly that a royal commission merely, +with whatever exclusive rights it conferred; would in itself be ineffectual +and powerless in the present complications. It was obvious to him that the +administration must be adapted to the state of affairs that had gradually +grown up at Quebec, and that it must be sustained by powerful personal +influence. + +Champlain proceeded, therefore, to draw up certain rules and regulations +which he deemed necessary for the management of the colony and the +protection of its interests. The leading characteristics of the plan were, +first, an association of which all who desired to carry on trade in New +France might become members, sharing equally in its advantages and its +burdens, its profits and its losses: and, secondly, that it should be +presided over by a viceroy of high position and commanding influence. De +Monts, who had thus far been at the head of the undertaking, was a +gentleman of great respectability, zeal, and honesty, but his name did not, +as society was constituted at that time in France, carry with it any +controlling weight with the merchants or others whose views were adverse to +his own. He was unable to carry out any plans which involved expense, +either for the exploration of the country or for the enlargement and growth +of the colony. It was necessary, in the opinion of Champlain, to place at +the head of the company a man of such exalted official and social position +that his opinions would be listened to with respect and his wishes obeyed +with alacrity. + +He submitted his plan to De Monts and likewise to President Jeannin, [73] a +man venerable with age, distinguished for his wisdom and probity, and at +this time having under his control the finances of the kingdom. They both +pronounced it excellent and urged its execution. + +Having thus obtained the cordial and intelligent assent of the highest +authority to his scheme, his next step was to secure a viceroy whose +exalted name and standing should conform to the requirements of his plan. +This was an object somewhat difficult to attain. It was not easy to find a +nobleman who possessed all the qualities desired. After careful +consideration, however, the Count de Soissons [74] was thought to unite +better than any other the characteristics which the office required. +Champlain, therefore, laid before the Count, through a member of the king's +council, a detailed exhibition of his plan and a map of New France executed +by himself. He soon after received an intimation from this nobleman of his +willingness to accept the office, if he should be appointed. A petition was +sent by Champlain to the king and his council, and the appointment was made +on the 8th of October, 1612, and on the 15th of the same month the Count +issued a commission appointing Champlain his lieutenant. + +Before this commission had been published in the ports and the maritime +towns of France, as required by law, and before a month had elapsed, +unhappily the death of the Count de Soissons suddenly occurred at his +Château de Blandy. Henry de Bourbon, the Prince de Condé, [75] was hastily +appointed his successor, and a new commission was issued to Champlain on +the 22d of November of the same year. + +The appointment of this prince carried with it the weight of high position +and influence, though hardly the character which would have been most +desirable under the circumstances. He was, however, a potent safeguard +against the final success, though not indeed of the attempt on the part of +enemies, to break up the company, or to interfere with its plans. No sooner +had the publication of the commission been undertaken, than the merchants, +who had schemes of trade in New France, put forth a powerful opposition. +The Parliamentary Court at Rouen even forbade its publication in that city, +and the merchants of St. Malo renewed their opposition, which had before +been set forth, on the flimsy ground that Jacques Cartier, the discoverer +of New France, was a native of their municipality, and therefore they had +rights prior and superior to all others. + +After much delay and several journeys by Champlain to Rouen, these +difficulties were overcome. There was, indeed, no solid ground of +opposition, as none were debarred from engaging in the enterprise who were +willing to share in the burdens as well as the profits. + +These delays prevented the complete organization of the company +contemplated by Champlain's new plan, but it was nevertheless necessary for +him to make the voyage to Quebec the present season, in order to keep up +the continuity of his operations there, and to renew his friendly relations +with the Indians, who had been greatly disappointed at not seeing him the +preceding year. Four vessels, therefore, were authorized to sail under the +commission of the viceroy, each of which was to furnish four men for the +service of Champlain in explorations and in aid of the Indians in their +wars, if it should be necessary. + +He accordingly left Honfleur in a vessel belonging to his old friend Pont +Gravé, on the 6th of March, 1613, and arrived at Tadoussac on the 29th of +April. On the 7th of May he reached Quebec, where he found the little +colony in excellent condition, the winter having been exceedingly mild, and +agreeable, the river not having been frozen in the severest weather. He +repaired at once to the trading rendezvous at Montreal, then commonly known +as the Falls of St. Louis. He learned from a trading barque that had +preceded him, that a small band of Algonquins had already been there on +their return from a raid upon the Iroquois. They had, however, departed to +their homes to celebrate a feast, at which the torture of two captives whom +they had taken from the Iroquois was to form the chief element in the +entertainment. A few days later, three Algonquin canoes arrived from the +interior with furs, which were purchased by the French. From them they +learned that the ill treatment of the previous year, and their +disappointment at not having seen Champlain there as they had expected, had +led the Indians to abandon the idea of again coming to the rendezvous, and +that large numbers of them had gone on their usual summer's expedition +against the Iroquois. + +Under these circumstances, Champlain resolved, in making his explorations, +to visit personally the Indians who had been accustomed to come to the +Falls of St. Louis, to assure them of kind treatment in the future, to +renew his alliance with them against their enemies, and, if possible, to +induce them to come to the rendezvous, where there was a large quantity of +French goods awaiting them. + +It will be remembered that an ulterior purpose of the French, in making a +settlement in North America, was to enable them better to explore the +interior and discover an avenue by water to the Pacific Ocean. This shorter +passage to Cathay, or the land of spicery, had been the day-dream of all +the great navigators in this direction for more than a hundred years. +Whoever should discover it would confer a boon of untold commercial value +upon his country, and crown himself with imperishable honor. Champlain had +been inspired by this dream from the first day that he set his foot upon +the soil of New France. Every indication that pointed in this direction he +watched with care and seized upon with avidity. In 1611, a young man in the +colony, Nicholas de Vignan, had been allowed, after the trading season had +closed, to accompany the Algonquins to their distant homes, and pass the +winter with them. This was one of the methods which had before been +successfully resorted to for obtaining important information. De Vignan +returned to Quebec in the spring of 1612, and the same year to France. +Having heard apparently something of Hudson's discovery and its +accompanying disaster, he made it the basis of a story drawn wholly from +his own imagination, but which he well knew must make a strong impression +upon Champlain and all others interested in new discoveries. He stated +that, during his abode with the Indians, he had made an excursion into the +forests of the north, and that he had actually discovered a sea of salt +water; that the river Ottawa had its source in a lake from which another +river flowed into the sea in question; that he had seen on its shores the +wreck of an English ship, from which eighty men had been taken and slain by +the savages; and that they had among them an English boy, whom they were +keeping to present to him. + +As was expected, this story made a strong impression upon the mind of +Champlain. The priceless object for which he had been in search so many +years seemed now within his grasp. The simplicity and directness of the +narrative, and the want of any apparent motive for deception, were a strong +guaranty of its truth. But, to make assurance doubly sure, Vignan was +cross-examined and tested in various ways, and finally, before leaving +France, was made to certify to the truth of his statement in the presence +of two notaries at Rochelle. Champlain laid the story before the Chancellor +de Sillery, the President Jeannin, the old Marshal de Brissac, and others, +who assured him that it was a question of so great importance, that he +ought at once to test the truth of the narrative by a personal exploration. +He resolved, therefore, to make this one of the objects of his summer's +excursion. + +With two bark canoes, laden with provisions, arms, and a few trifles as +presents for the savages, an Indian guide, four Frenchmen, one of whom was +the mendacious Vignan, Champlain left the rendezvous at Montreal on the +27th of May. After getting over the Lachine Rapids, they crossed Lake St. +Louis and the Two Mountains, and, passing up the Ottawa, now expanding into +a broad lake and again contracting into narrows, whence its pent-up waters +swept over precipices and boulders in furious, foaming currents, they at +length, after incredible labor, reached the island Allumette, a distance of +not less than two hundred and twenty-five miles. In no expedition which +Champlain had thus far undertaken had he encountered obstacles so +formidable. The falls and rapids in the river were numerous and difficult +to pass. Sometimes a portage was impossible on account of the denseness of +the forests, in which case they were compelled to drag their canoes by +ropes, wading along the edge of the water, or clinging to the precipitous +banks of the river as best they could. When a portage could not be avoided, +it was necessary to carry their armor, provisions, clothing, and canoes +through the forests, over precipices, and sometimes over stretches of +territory where some tornado had prostrated the huge pines in tangled +confusion, through which a pathway was almost impossible. [76] To lighten +their burdens, nearly every thing was abandoned but their canoes. Fish and +wild-fowl were an uncertain reliance for food, and sometimes they toiled on +for twenty-four hours with scarcely any thing to appease their craving +appetites. + +Overcome with fatigue and oppressed by hunger, they at length arrived at +Allumette Island, the abode of the chief Tessoüat, by whom they were +cordially entertained. Nothing but the hope of reaching the north sea could +have sustained them amid the perils and sufferings through which they had +passed in reaching this inhospitable region. The Indians had chosen this +retreat not from choice, but chiefly on account of its great +inaccessibility to their enemies. They were astonished to see Champlain and +his company, and facetiously suggested that it must be a dream, or that +these new-comers had fallen from the clouds. After the usual ceremonies of +feasting and smoking, Champlain was permitted to lay before Tessoüat and +his chiefs the object of his journey. When he informed them that he was in +search of a salt sea far to the north of them, which had been actually seen +two years before by one of his companions, he learned to his disappointment +and mortification that the whole story of Vignan was a sheer fabrication. +The miscreant had indeed passed a winter on the very spot where they then +were, but had never been a league further north. The Indians themselves had +no knowledge of the north sea, and were highly enraged at the baseness of +Vignan's falsehood, and craved the opportunity of despatching him at once. +They jeered at him, calling him a liar, and even the children took up the +refrain, vociferating vigorously and heaping maledictions upon his head. + +Indignant as he was, Champlain had too much philosophy in his composition +to commit an indiscretion at such a moment as this. He accordingly +restrained the Savages and his own anger, bore his insult and +disappointment with exemplary patience, giving up all hope of seeing the +salt sea in this direction, as he humorously added, "except in +imagination." + +Before leaving Allumette Island on his return, Champlain invited Tessoüat +to send a trading expedition to the Falls of St. Louis, where he would find +an ample opportunity for an exchange of commodities. The invitation was +readily accepted, and information was at once sent out to the neighboring +chiefs, requesting them to join in the enterprise. The savages soon began +to assemble, and when Champlain left, he was accompanied by forty canoes +well laden with furs; others joined them at different points on the way, +and on reaching Montreal the number had swollen to eighty. + +An incident occurred on their journey down the river worthy of record. When +the fleet of savage fur-traders had arrived at the foot of the Chaudière +Falls, not a hundred rods distant from the site of the present city of +Ottawa, having completed the portage, they all assembled on the shore, +before relaunching their canoes, to engage in a ceremony which they never +omitted when passing this spot. A wooden plate of suitable dimensions was +passed round, into which each of the savages cast a small piece of tobacco. +The plate was then placed on the ground, in the midst of the company, and +all danced around it, singing at the same time. An address was then made by +one of the chiefs, setting forth the great importance of this time-honored +custom, particularly as a safeguard and protection against their enemies. +Then, taking the plate, the speaker cast its contents into the boiling +cauldron at the base of the falls, the act being accompanied by a loud +shout from the assembled multitude. This fall, named the _Chaudière_, or +cauldron, by Champlain, formed in fact the limit above which the Iroquois +rarely if ever went in hostile pursuit of the Algonquins. The region above +was exceedingly difficult of approach, and from which it was still more +difficult, in case of an attack, to retreat. But the Iroquois often +lingered here in ambush, and fell upon the unsuspecting inhabitants of the +upper Ottawa as they came down the river. It was, therefore, a place of +great danger; and the Indians, enslaved by their fears and superstitions, +did not believe it possible to make a prosperous journey, without +observing, as they passed, the ceremonies above described. + +On reaching Montreal, three additional ships had arrived from France with a +license to carry on trade from the Prince de Condé, the viceroy, making +seven in all in port. The trade with the Indians for the furs brought in +the eighty canoes, which had come with Champlain to Montreal, was soon +despatched. Vignan was pardoned on the solemn promise, a condition offered +by himself, that he would make a journey to the north sea and bring back a +true report, having made a most humble confession of his offence in the +presence of the whole colony and the Indians, who were purposely assembled +to receive it. This public and formal administration of reproof was well +adapted to produce a powerful effect upon the mind of the culprit, and +clearly indicates the moderation and wisdom, so uniformly characteristic of +Champlain's administration. + +The business of the season having been completed, Champlain returned to +France, arriving at St. Malo on the 26th of August, 1613. Before leaving, +however, he arranged to send back with the Algonquins who had come from +Isle Allumette two of his young men to pass the winter, for the purpose, as +on former occasions, of learning the language and obtaining the information +which comes only from an intimate and prolonged association. + +ENDNOTES: + +73. Pierre Jeannin was born at Autun, in 1540, and died about 1622. He + began the practice of law at Dijon, in 1569. Though a Catholic, he + always counselled tolerant measures in the treatment of the + Protestants. By his influence he prevented the massacre of the + Protestants at Dijon in 1572. He was a Councillor, and afterward + President, of the Parliament of Dijon. He was the private adviser of + the Duke of Mayenne. He united himself with the party of the League in + 1589. He negotiated the peace between Mayenne and Henry IV. The king + became greatly attached to him, and appointed him a Councillor of State + and Superintendent of Finances. He held many offices and did great + service to the State. After the death of the king, Marie de Médicis, + the regent, continued him as Superintendent of Finances. + +74. Count de Soissons, Charles de Bourbon, was born at Nogent-le-Rotrou, in + 1556, and died Nov. 1, 1612. He was educated in the Catholic religion. + He acted for a time with the party of the League, but, falling in love + with Catherine, the sister of Henry IV., better to secure his object he + abandoned the League and took a military command under Henry III., and + distinguished himself for bravery when the king was besieged in Tours. + After the death of the king, he espoused the cause of Henry IV., was + made Grand Master of France, and took part in the siege of Paris. He + attempted a secret marriage with Catherine, but was thwarted; and the + unhappy lovers were compelled, by the Duke of Sully, to renounce their + matrimonial intentions. He had been Governor of Dauphiny, and, at the + time of his death, was Governor of Normandy, with a pension of 50,000 + crowns. + +75. Prince de Condé, Henry de Bourbon II., the posthumous son of the first + Henry de Bourbon, was born at Saint Jean d'Angely, in 1588. He married, + in 1609, Charlotte Marguerite de Montmorency, the sister of Henry, the + Duke de Montmorency, who succeeded him as the Viceroy of New France. To + avoid the impertinent gallantries of Henry IV., who had fallen in love + with this beautiful Princess, Condé and his wife left France, and did + not return till the death of the king. He headed a conspiracy against + the Regent, Marie de Médicis, and was thrown into prison on the first + of September, 1616, where he remained three years. Influenced by + ambition, and more particularly by his avarice, he forced his son + Louis, Le Grand Condé, to marry the niece of Cardinal Richelieu, Claire + Clémence de Maillé-Brézé. He did much to confer power and influence + upon his family, largely through his avarice, which was his chief + characteristic. The wit of Voltaire attributes his crowning glory to + his having been the father of the great Condé. During the detention of + the Prince de Condé in prison, the Mareschal de Thémins was Acting + Viceroy of New France, having been appointed by Marie de Médicis, the + Queen Regent.--_Vide Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. + 211. + +76. In making the portage from what is now known as Portage du Fort to + Muskrat Lake, a distance of about nine miles, Champlain, though less + heavily loaded than his companions, carried three French arquebusses, + three oars, his cloak, and some small articles, and was at the same + time bitterly oppressed by swarms of hungry and insatiable mosquitoes. + On the old portage road, traversed by Champlain and his party at this + time, in 1613, an astrolabe, inscribed 1603, was found in 1867. The + presumptive evidence that this instrument was lost by Champlain is + stated in a brochure by Mr. O. H. Marshall.--_Vide Magazine of American + History_ for March, 1879. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +CHAMPLAIN OBTAINS MISSIONARIES FOR NEW FRANCE.--MEETS THE INDIANS AT +MONTREAL AND ENGAGES IN A WAR AGAINST THE IROQUOIS.--HIS JOURNEY TO THE +HURONS, AND WINTER IN THEIR COUNTRY. + +During the whole of the year 1614, Champlain remained in France, occupied +for the most part in adding new members to his company of associates, and +in forming and perfecting such plans as were clearly necessary for the +prosperity and success of the colony. His mind was particularly absorbed in +devising means for the establishment of the Christian faith in the wilds of +America. Hitherto nothing whatever had been done in this direction, if we +except the efforts of Poutrincourt on the Atlantic coast, which had already +terminated in disaster. [77] No missionary of any sort had had hitherto set +his foot upon that part of the soil of New France lying within the Gulf of +St. Lawrence. [78] A fresh interest had been awakened in the mind of +Champlain. He saw its importance in a new light. He sought counsel and +advice from various persons whose wisdom commended them to his attention. +Among the rest was Louis Houêl, an intimate friend, who held some office +about the person of the king, and who was the chief manager of the salt +works at Brouage. This gentleman took a hearty interest in the project, and +assured Champlain that it would not be difficult to raise the means of +sending out three or four Fathers, and, moreover, that he knew some of the +order of the Recollects, belonging to a convent at Brouage, whose zeal he +was sure would be equal to the undertaking. On communicating with them, he +found them quite ready to engage in the work. Two of them were sent to +Paris to obtain authority and encouragement from the proper sources. It +happened that about this time the chief dignitaries of the church were in +Paris, attending a session of the Estates. The bishops and cardinals were +waited upon by Champlain, and their zeal awakened and their co-operation +secured in raising the necessary means for sustaining the mission. After +the usual negotiations and delays, the object was fully accomplished; +fifteen hundred _livres_ were placed in the hands of Champlain for outfit +and expenses, and four Recollect friars embarked with him at Honfleur, on +the ship "St. Étienne," on the 24th of April, 1615, viz., Denis Jamay, Jean +d'Olbeau, Joseph le Caron, and the lay-brother Pacifique du Plessis. [79] + +On their arrival at Quebec, Champlain addressed himself immediately to the +preparation of lodgings for the missionaries and the erection of a chapel +for the celebration of divine service. The Fathers were impatient to enter +the fields of labor severally assigned to them. Joseph le Caron was +appointed to visit the Hurons in their distant forest home, concerning +which he had little or no information; but he nevertheless entered upon the +duty with manly courage and Christian zeal. Jean d'Olbeau assumed the +mission to the Montagnais, embracing the region about Tadoussac and the +river Saguenay, while Denis Jamay and Pacifique du Plessis took charge of +the chapel at Quebec. + +At the earliest moment possible Champlain hastened to the rendezvous at +Montreal, to meet the Indians who had already reached there on their annual +visit for trade. The chiefs were in raptures of delight on seeing their old +friend again, and had a grand scheme to propose. They had not forgotten +that Champlain had often promised to aid them in their wars. They +approached the subject, however, with moderation and diplomatic wisdom. +They knew perfectly well that the trade in peltry was greatly desired, in +fact that it was indispensable to the French. The substance of what they +had to say was this. It had become now, if not impossible, exceedingly +hazardous, to bring their furs to market. Their enemies, the Iroquois, like +so many prowling wolves, were sure to be on their trail as they came down +the Ottawa, and, incumbered with their loaded canoes, the struggle must be +unequal, and it was nearly impossible for them ever to be winners. The only +solution of the difficulty known to them, or which they cared to consider, +as in all Indian warfare, was to annihilate their enemies utterly and wipe +out their name for ever. Let this be done, and the fruits of peace would +return, their commerce would be safe, prosperous, and greatly augmented. + +Such were the reasons presented by the allies. But there were other +considerations, likewise, which influenced the mind of Champlain. It was +necessary to maintain a close and firm alliance with the Indians in order +to extend the French discoveries and domain into new and more distant +regions, and on this extension of French influence depended their hope of +converting the savages to the Christian faith. The force of these +considerations could not be resisted. Champlain decided that, under the +circumstances, it was necessary to give them the desired assistance. + +A general assembly was called, and the nature and extent of the campaign +fully considered. It was to be of vastly greater proportions than any that +had hitherto been proposed. The Indians offered to furnish two thousand +five hundred and fifty men, but they were to be gathered together from +different and distant points. The journey must, therefore, be long and +perilous. The objective point, viz., a celebrated Iroquois fort, could not +be reached by the only feasible route in a less distance than eight hundred +or nine hundred miles, and it would require an absence of three or four +months. Preparations for the journey were entered upon at once. Champlain +visited Quebec to make arrangements for his long absence. On his return to +Montreal, the Indians, impatient of delay, had already departed, and Father +Joseph le Caron had gone with them to his distant field of missionary labor +among the Hurons. + +On the 9th of July, 1615, Champlain embarked, taking with him an +interpreter, probably Etienne Brûlé, a French servant, and ten savages, +who, with their equipments, were to be accommodated in two canoes. They +entered the Rivière des Prairies, which flows into the St. Lawrence some +leagues east of Montreal, crossing the Lake of the Two Mountains, passed up +the Ottawa, taking the same route which he had traversed some years before, +revisiting its long succession of reaches, its placid lakes, impetuous +rapids, and magnificent falls, and at length arrived at the point where the +river, by an abrupt angle, begins to flow from the northwest. Here, leaving +the Ottawa, they entered the Mattawan, passing down this river into Lac du +Talon, thence into Lac la Tortue, and by a short portage, into Lake +Nipissing. After remaining here two days, entertained generously by the +Nipissingian chiefs, they crossed the lake, and, following the channel of +French River, entered Lake Huron, or rather the Georgian Bay. They coasted +along until they reached the northern limits of the county of Simcoe. Here +they disembarked and entered the territory of their old friends and allies, +the Hurons. + +The domain of this tribe consisted of a peninsula formed by the Georgian +Bay, the river Severn, and Lake Simcoe, at the farthest, not more than +forty by twenty-five miles in extent, but more generally cultivated by the +native population, and of a richer soil than any region hitherto explored +north of the St. Lawrence and the lakes. They visited four of their +villages and were cordially received and feasted on Indian corn, squashes, +and fish, with some variety in the methods of cooking. They then proceeded +to Carhagouha, [80] a town fortified with a triple palisade of wood +thirty-five feet in height. Here they found the Recollect Father Joseph Le +Caron, who, having preceded them but a few days, and not anticipating the +visit, was filled with raptures of astonishment and joy. The good Father +was intent upon his pious work. On the 12th of August, surrounded by his +followers, he formally erected a cross as a symbol of the faith, and on the +same day they celebrated the mass and chanted TE DEUM LAUDAMUS for the +first time. + +Lingering but two days, Champlain and ten of the French, eight of whom had +belonged to the Suite of Le Caron, proceeded slowly towards Cahiagué, [81] +the rendezvous where the mustering hosts of the savage warriors were to set +forth together upon their hostile excursion into the country of the +Iroquois. Of the Huron villages visited by them, six are particularly +mentioned as fortified by triple palisades of wood. Cahiagué, the capital, +encircled two hundred large cabins within its wooden walls. It was situated +on the north of Lake Simcoe, ten or twelve miles from this body of water, +surrounded by a country rich in corn, squashes, and a great variety of +small fruits, with plenty of game and fish. When the warriors had mostly +assembled, the motley crowd, bearing their bark canoes, meal, and +equipments on their shoulders, moved down in a southwesterly direction till +they reached the narrow strait that unites Lake Chouchiching with Lake +Simcoe, where the Hurons had a famous fishing wear. Here they remained some +time for other more tardy bands to join them. At this point they despatched +twelve of the most stalwart savages, with the interpreter, Étienne Brûlé, +on a dangerous journey to a distant tribe dwelling on the west of the Five +Nations, to urge them to hasten to the fort of the Iroquois, as they had +already received word from them that they would join them in this campaign. + +Champlain and his allies soon left the fishing wear and coasted along the +northeastern shore of Lake Simcoe until they reached its most eastern +border, when they made a portage to Sturgeon Lake, thence sweeping down +Pigeon and Stony Lakes, through the Otonabee into Rice Lake, the River +Trent, the Bay of Quinté, and finally rounding the eastern point of Amherst +Island, they were fairly on the waters of Lake Ontario, just as it merges +into the great River St. Lawrence, and where the Thousand Islands begin to +loom into sight. Here they crossed the extremity of the lake at its outflow +into the river, pausing at this important geographical point to take the +latitude, which, by his imperfect instruments, Champlain found to be 43 +deg. north. [82] + +Sailing down to the southern side of the lake, after a distance, by their +estimate, of about fourteen leagues, they landed and concealed their canoes +in a thicket near the shore. Taking their arms, they proceeded along the +lake some ten miles, through a country diversified with meadows, brooks, +ponds, and beautiful forests filled with plenty of wild game, when they +struck inland, apparently at the mouth of Little Salmon River. Advancing in +a southerly direction, along the course of this stream, they crossed Oneida +River, an outlet of the lake of the same name. When within about ten miles +of the fort which they intended to capture, they met a small party of +savages, men, women, and children, bound on a fishing excursion. Although +unarmed, nevertheless, according to their custom, they took them all +prisoners of war, and began to inflict the usual tortures, but this was +dropped on Champlain's indignant interference. The next day, on the 10th of +October, they reached the great fortress of the Iroquois, after a journey +of four days from their landing, a distance loosely estimated at from +twenty-five to thirty leagues. Here they found the Iroquois in their +fields, industriously gathering in their autumnal harvest of corn and +squashes. A skirmish ensued, in which several were wounded on both sides. + +The fort, a drawing of which has been left us by Champlain, was situated a +few miles south of the eastern terminus of Oneida Lake, on a small stream +that winds its way in a northwesterly direction, and finally loses itself +in the same body of water. This rude military structure was hexagonal in +form, one of its sides bordering immediately upon a small pond, while four +of the other laterals, two on the right and two on the left were washed by +a channel of water flowing along their bases. [83] The side opposite the +pond alone had an unobstructed land approach. As an Indian military work, +it was of great strength. It was made of the trunks of trees, as large as +could be conveniently transported. These were set in the ground, forming +four concentric palisades, not more than six inches apart, thirty feet in +height, interlaced and bound together near the top, supporting a gallery of +double paling extending around the whole enclosure, proof not only against +the flint-headed arrows of the Indian, but against the leaden bullets of +the French arquebus. Port-holes were opened along the gallery, through +which effective service could be done upon assailants by hurling stones and +other missiles with which they were well provided. Gutters were laid along +between the palisades to conduct water to every part of the fortification +for extinguishing fire, in case of need. + +It was obvious to Champlain that this fort was a complete protection to the +Iroquois, unless an opening could be made in its walls. This could not be +easily done by any force which he and his allies had at their command. His +only hope was in setting fire to the palisades on the land side. This +required the dislodgement of the enemy, who were posted in large numbers on +the gallery, and the protection of the men in kindling the fire, and +shielding it, when kindled, against the extinguishing torrents which could +be poured from the water-spouts and gutters of the fort. He consequently +ordered two instruments to be made with which he hoped to overcome these +obstacles. One was a wooden tower or frame-work, dignified by Champlain as +a _cavalier_, somewhat higher than the palisades, on the top of which was +an enclosed platform where three or four sharp-shooters could in security +clear the gallery, and thus destroy the effective force of the enemy. The +other was a large wooden shield, or _mantelet_, under the protection of +which they could in safety approach and kindle a fire at the base of the +fort, and protect the fire thus kindled from being extinguished by water +coming from above. + +When all was in readiness, two hundred savages bore the framed tower and +planted it near the palisades. Three arquebusiers mounted it and poured a +deadly fire upon the defenders on the gallery. The battle now began and +raged fiercely for three hours, but Champlain strove in vain to carry out +any plan of attack. The savages rushed to and fro in a frenzy of +excitement, filling the air with their discordant yells, observing no +method and heeding no commands. The wooden shields were not even brought +forward, and the burning of the fort was undertaken with so little judgment +and skill that the fire was instantly extinguished by the fountains of +water let loose by the skilful defenders through the gutters and +water-spouts of the fort. + +The sharp-shooters on the tower killed and wounded a large number, but +nevertheless no effective impression was made upon the fortress. Two chiefs +and fifteen men of the allies were wounded, while one was killed, or died +of wounds received in a skirmish before the formal attack upon the fort +began. After a frantic and desultory fight of three hours, the attacking +savages lost their courage and began to clamor for a retreat. No +persuasions could induce them to renew the attack. + +After lingering four days in vain expectation of the arrival of the allies +to whom Brûlé had been sent, the retreat began. Champlain had been wounded +in the knee and leg, and was unable to walk. Litters in the form of baskets +were fabricated, into which the wounded were packed in a constrained and +uncomfortable attitude, and carried on the shoulders of the men. As the +task of the carriers was lightened by frequent relays, and, as there was +little baggage to impede their progress, the march was rapid. In three days +they had reached their canoes, which had remained in the place of their +concealment near the shore of the lake, an estimated distance of +twenty-five or thirty leagues from the fort. + +Such was the character of a great battle among the contending savages, an +undisciplined host, without plan or well-defined purpose, rushing in upon +each other in the heat of a sudden frenzy of passion, striking an aimless +blow, and following it by a hasty and cowardly retreat. They had, for the +time being at least, no ulterior design. They fought and expected no +substantial reward of their conflict. The sweetness of personal revenge and +the blotting out a few human lives were all they hoped for or cared at this +time to attain. The invading party had apparently destroyed more than they +had themselves lost, and this was doubtless a suitable reward for the +hazards and hardships of the campaign. + +The retreating warriors lingered ten days on the shore of Lake Ontario, at +the point where they had left their canoes, beguiling the time in preparing +for hunting and fishing excursions, and for their journey to their distant +homes. Champlain here took occasion to call the attention of the allies to +their promise to conduct him safely to his home. The head of the St. +Lawrence as it flows from the Ontario is less than two hundred miles from +Montreal, a journey by canoes not difficult to make. Champlain desired to +return this way, and demanded an escort. The chiefs were reluctant to grant +his request. Masters in the art of making excuses, they saw many +insuperable obstacles. In reality, they did not desire to part with him, +but wished to avail themselves of his knowledge, counsel, and personal aid +against their enemies. When one obstacle after another gave way, and when +volunteers were found ready to accompany him, no canoes could be spared for +the journey. This closed the debate. Champlain was not prepared for the +exposure and hardship of a winter among the savages, but there was left to +him no choice. He submitted as gracefully as he could, and with such +patience as necessity made it possible for him to command. + +The bark flotilla was at length ready to leave the borders of the present +State of New York. According to their usual custom in canoe navigation, +they crept along the shore of the Ontario, revisiting an island at the +eastern extremity of the lake, not unlikely the same place where Champlain +had stopped to take the latitude a few weeks before. Crossing over from the +island to the mainland on the north, they appear to have continued up the +Cataraqui Creek east of Kingston, and, after a short portage, entered +Loughborough Lake, a sheet of water then renowned as a resort of waterfowl +in vast numbers and varieties. Having bagged all they desired, they +proceeded inland twenty or thirty miles, to the objective point of their +excursion, which was a famous hunting-ground for wild game. Here they +constructed a deer-trap, an enclosure into which the unsuspecting animals +were beguiled and from which it was impossible for them to escape. +Deer-hunting was of all pursuits, if we except war, the most exciting to +the Indians. It not only yielded the richest returns to their larder, and +supplied more fully other domestic wants, but it possessed the element of +fascination, which has always given zest and inspiration to the sportsman. + +They lingered here thirty-eight days, during which time they captured one +hundred and twenty deer. They purposely prolonged their stay that the frost +might seal up the marshes, ponds, and rivers over which they were to pass. +Early in December they began to arrange into convenient packages their +peltry and venison, the fat of which was to serve as butter in their rude +huts during the icy months of winter. On the 4th of the month they broke +camp and began their weary march, each savage bearing a burden of not less +than a hundred pounds, while Champlain himself carried a package of about +twenty. Some of them constructed rude sledges, on which they easily dragged +their luggage over the ice and snow. During the progress of the journey, a +warm current came sweeping up from the south, melted the ice, flooded the +marshes, and for four days the overburdened and weary travellers struggled +on, knee-deep in mud and water and slush. Without experience, a lively +imagination alone can picture the toil, suffering, and exposure of a +journey through the tangled forests and half-submerged bogs and marshes of +Canada, in the most inclement season of the year. + +At length, on the 23d of December, after nineteen days of excessive toil, +they arrived at Cahiagué, the chief town of the Hurons, the rendezvous of +the allied tribes, whence they had set forth on the first of September, +nearly four months before, on what may seem to us a bootless raid. To the +savage warriors, however, it doubtless seemed a different thing. They had +been enabled to bring home valuable provisions, which were likely to be +important to them when an unsuccessful hunt might, as it often did, leave +them nearly destitute of food. They had lost but a single man, and this was +less than they had anticipated, and, moreover, was the common fortune of +war. They had invaded the territory and made their presence felt in the +very home of their enemies, and could rejoice in having inflicted upon them +more injury than they had themselves received. Though they had not captured +or annihilated them, they had done enough to inspire and fully sustain +their own grovelling pride. + +To Champlain even, although the expedition had been accompanied by hardship +and suffering and some disappointments, it was by no means a failure. He +had explored an interesting and important region; he had gone where +European feet had never trod, and had seen what European eyes had never +seen; he had, moreover, planted the lilies of France in the chief Indian +towns, and at all suitable and important points, and these were to be +witnesses of possession and ownership in what his exuberant imagination saw +as a vast French empire rising into power and opulence in the western +world. + +It was now the last week in December, and the deep snows and piercing cold +rendered it impossible for Champlain or even the allied warriors to +continue their journey further. The Algonquins and Nipissings became guests +of the Hurons for the winter, encamping within their principal walled town, +or perhaps in some neighboring village not far removed. + +After the rest of a few days at Cahiagué, where he had been hospitably +entertained, Champlain took his departure for Carhagouha, a smaller +village, where his friend the Recollect Father, Joseph le Caron, had taken +up his abode as the pioneer missionary to the Hurons. It was important for +Le Caron to obtain all the information possible, not only of the Hurons, +but of all the surrounding tribes, as he contemplated returning to France +the next summer to report to his patrons upon the character, extent, and +hopefulness of the missionary field which he had been sent out to explore. +Champlain was happy to avail himself of his company in executing the +explorations which he desired to make. + +They accordingly set out together on the 15th of January, and penetrated +the trackless and show-bound forests, and, proceeding in a western +direction, after a journey of two days reached a tribe called _Petuns_, an +agricultural people, similar in habits and mode of life to the Hurons. By +them they were hospitably received, and a great festival, in which all +their neighbors participated, was celebrated in honor of their new guests. +Having visited seven or eight of their villages, the explorers pushed +forward still further west, when they came to the settlement of an +interesting tribe, which they named _Cheveux-Relevés_, or the "lofty +haired," an appellation suggested by the mode of dressing their hair. + +On their return from this expedition, they found, on reaching the +encampment of the Nipissings, who were wintering in the Huron territory, +that a disagreement had arisen between the Hurons and their Algonquin +guests, which had already assumed a dangerous character. An Iroquois +captive taken in the late war had been awarded to the Algonquins, according +to the custom of dividing the prisoners among the several bands of allies, +and, finding him a skilful hunter, they resolved to spare his life, and had +actually adopted him as one of their tribe. This had offended the Hurons, +who expected he would be put to the usual torture, and they had +commissioned one of their number, who had instantly killed the unfortunate +prisoner by plunging a knife into his heart. The assassin, in turn, had +been set upon by the Algonquins and put to death on the spot. The +perpetrators of this last act had regretted the occurrence, and had done +what they could to heal, the breach by presents: but there was, +nevertheless, a smouldering feeling of hostility still lingering in both +parties, which might at any moment break out into open conflict. + +It was obvious to Champlain that a permanent disagreement between these two +important allies would be a great calamity to themselves as well as +disastrous to his own plans. It was his purpose, therefore, to bring them, +if possible, to a cordial pacification. Proceeding cautiously and with +great deliberation, he made himself acquainted with all the facts of the +quarrel, and then called an assembly of both parties and clearly set before +them in all its lights the utter foolishness of allowing a circumstance of +really small importance to interfere with an alliance between two great +tribes; an alliance necessary to their prosperity, and particularly in the +war they were carrying on against their common enemy, the Iroquois. This +appeal of Champlain was so convincing that when the assembly broke up all +professed themselves entirely satisfied, although the Algonquins were heard +to mutter their determination never again to winter in the territory of the +Hurons, a wise and not unnatural conclusion. + +Champlain's constant intercourse with these tribes for many months in their +own homes, his explorations, observations, and inquiries, enabled him to +obtain a comprehensive, definite, and minute knowledge of their character, +religion, government, and mode of life. As the fruit of these +investigations, he prepared in the leisure of the winter an elaborate +memoir, replete with discriminating details, which is and must always be an +unquestionable authority on the subject of which it treats. + +ENDNOTES: + +77. De Poutrincourt obtained a confirmation from Henry IV. of the gift to + him of Port Royal by De Monts, and proceeded to establish a colony + there in 1608. In 1611, a Jesuit mission was planted by the Fathers + Pierre Biard and Enemond Massé. It was chiefly patronized by a bevy of + ladies, under the leadership of the Marchioness de Guerchville, in + close association with Marie de Médicis, the queen-regent, Madame de + Verneuil, and Madame de Soudis. Although De Poutrincourt was a devout + member of the Roman Church, the missionaries were received with + reluctance, and between them and the patentee and his lieutenant there + was a constant and irrepressible discord. The lady patroness, the + Marchioness de Guerchville, determined to abandon Port Royal and plant + a new colony at Kadesquit, on the site of the present city of Bangor, + in the State of Maine. A colony was accordingly organized, which + included the fathers, Quentin and Lalemant with the lay brother, + Gilbert du Thet, and arrived at La Hève in La Cadie, on the 6th of May, + 1613, under the conduct of Sieur de la Saussaye. From there they + proceeded to Port Royal, took the two missionaries, Biard and Massé, on + board, and coasted along the borders of Maine till they came to Mount + Desert, and finally determined to plant their colony on that island. A + short time after the arrival of the colony, before they were in any + condition for defence, Captain Samuel Argall, from the English colony + in Virginia, suddenly appeared, and captured and transported the whole + colony, and subsequently that at Port Royal, on the alleged ground that + they were intruders on English soil. Thus disastrously ended + Poutrincourt's colony at Port Royal, and the Marchioness de + Guerchville's mission at Mount Desert.--_Vide Voyages par le Sr. de + Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. 98-114. _Shea's Charlevoix_, Vol. I. + pp. 260-286. + +78. Champlain had tried to induce Madame de Guerchville to send her + missionaries to Quebec, to avoid the obstacles which they had + encountered at Port Royal; but, for the simple reason that De Monts was + a Calvinist, she would not listen to it.--_Vide Shea's Charlevoix_, + Vol. I. p. 274; _Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris ed. 1632, pp. + 112, 113. + +79. _Vide Histoire du Canada, par Gabriel Sagard_, Paris, 1636, pp. 11-12. + +80. _Carhagouha_, named by the French _Saint Gabriel_. Dr. J. C. Taché, of + Ottawa, Canada, who has given much attention to the subject, fixes this + village in the central part of the present township of Tiny, in the + county of Simcoe.--_MS. Letter_, Feb. 11, 1880. + +81. _Cahiagué. Dr. Taché places this village on the extreme eastern limit + of the township of Orillia. in the same county, in the bend of the + river Severn, a short distance after it leaves Lake Couchiching. The + Indian warriors do not appear to have launched their flotilla of bark + canoes until they reached the fishing station at the outlet of Lake + Simcoe This village was subsequently known as _Saint-Jean Baptiste_. + +82. The latitude of Champlain is here far from correct. It is not possible + to determine the exact place at which it was taken. It could not, + however have been at a point much below 44 deg. 7'. + +83. There has naturally been some difficulty in fixing satisfactorily the + site of the Iroquois fort attacked by Champlain and his allies. + + The sources of information on which we are to rely in identifying the + site of this fort are in general the same that we resort to in fixing + any locality mentioned in his explorations, and are to be found in + Champlain's journal of this expedition, the map contained in what is + commonly called his edition of 1632, and the engraved picture of the + fort executed by Champlain himself, which was published in connection + with his journal. The information thus obtained is to be considered in + connection with the natural features of the country through which the + expedition passed, with such allowance for inexactness as the history, + nature, and circumstances of the evidence render necessary. + + The map of 1632 is only at best an outline, drafted on a very small + scale, and without any exact measurements or actual surveys. It + pictures general features, and in connection with the journal may be of + great service. + + Champlain's distances, as given in his journal, are estimates made + under circumstances in which accuracy was scarcely possible. He was + journeying along the border of lakes and over the face of the country, + in company with some hundreds of wild savages, hunting and fishing by + the way, marching in an irregular and desultory manner, and his + statements of distances are wisely accompanied by very wide margins, + and are of little service, taken alone, in fixing the site of an Indian + town. But when natural features, not subject to change, are described, + we can easily comprehend the meaning of the text. + + The engraving of the fort may or may not have been sketched by + Champlain on the spot: parts of it may have been and doubtless were + supplied by memory, and it is decisive authority, not in its minor, but + in its general features. + + With these observations, we are prepared to examine the evidence that + points to the site of the Iroquois fort. + + When the expedition, emerging from Quinté Bay, arrived at the eastern + end of Lake Ontario, at the point where the lake ends and the River St. + Lawrence begins, they crossed over the lake, passing large and + beautiful islands. Some of these islands will be found laid down on the + map of 1632. They then proceeded, a distance, according to their + estimation, of about fourteen leagues, to the southern side of Lake + Ontario, where they landed and concealed their canoes. The distance to + the southern side of the lake is too indefinitely stated, even if we + knew at what precise point the measurement began, to enable us to fix + the exact place of the landing. + + They marched along the sandy shore about four leagues, and then struck + inland. If we turn to the map of 1632, on which a line is drawn to + rudely represent their course, we shall see that on striking inland + they proceeded along the banks of a small river to which several small + lakes or ponds are tributary. Little Salmon River being fed by numerous + small ponds or lakes may well be the stream figured by Champlain. The + text says they discovered an excellent country along the lake before + they struck inland, with fine forest-trees, especially the chestnut, + with abundance of vines. For several miles along Lake Ontario on the + north-east of Little Salmon River the country answers to this + description.--_Vide MS. Letters of the Rev. James Cross, D.D., LL.D._, + and of S. D. Smith, Esq._, of Mexico, N.Y. + + The text says they, continued their course about twenty-five or thirty + leagues. This again is indefinite, allowing a margin of twelve or + fifteen miles; but the text also says they crossed a river flowing from + a lake in which were certain beautiful islands, and moreover that the + river so crossed discharged into Lake Ontario. The lake here referred + to must be the Oneida, since that is the only one in the region which + contains any islands whatever, and therefore the river they crossed + must be the Oneida River, flowing from the lake of the same name into + Lake Ontario. + + Soon after they crossed Oneida River, they met a band of savages who + were going fishing, whom they made prisoners. This occurred, the text + informs us, when they were about four leagues from the fort They were + now somewhere south of Oneida Lake If we consult the map of 1632, we + shall find represented on it an expanse of water from which a stream is + represented as flowing into Lake Ontario, and which is clearly Oneida + Lake, and south of this lake a stream is represented as flowing from + the east in a northwesterly direction and entering this lake towards + its western extremity, which must be Chittenango Creek or one of its + branches. A fort or enclosed village is also figured on the map, of + such huge dimensions that it subtends the angle formed by the creek and + the lake, and appears to rest upon both. It is plain, however, from the + text that the fort does not rest upon Oneida Lake; we may infer + therefore that it rested upon the creek figured on the map, which from + its course, as we have already seen, is clearly intended to represent + Chittenango Creek or one of its branches. A note explanatory of the map + informs us that this is the village where Champlain went to war against + the "Antouhonorons," that is to say, the Iroquois. The text informs us + that the fort was on a pond, which furnished a perpetual supply of + water. We therefore look for the site of the ancient fort on some small + body of water connected with Chittenango Creek. + + If we examine Champlain's engraved representation of the fort, we shall + see that it is situated on a peninsula, that one side rests on a pond, + and that two streams pass it, one on the right and one on the left, and + that one side only has an unobstructed land-approach. These channels of + water coursing along the sides are such marked characteristics of the + fort as represented by Champlain, that they must be regarded as + important features in the identification of its ancient site. + + On Nichols's Pond, near the northeastern limit of the township of + Fenner in Madison County, N.Y., the site of an Indian fort was some + years since discovered, identified as such by broken bits of pottery + and stone implements, such as are usually found in localities of this + sort. It is situated on a peculiarly formed peninsula, its northern + side resting on Nichols's Pond, while a small stream flowing into the + pond forms its western boundary, and an outlet of the pond about + thirty-two rods east of the inlet, running in a south-easterly + direction, forms the eastern limit of the fort. The outlet of this + pond, deflecting to the east and then sweeping round to the north, at + length finds its way in a winding course into Cowashalon Creek, thence + into the Chittenango, through which it flows into Oneida Lake, at a + point north-west of Nichols's Pond. + + If we compare the geographical situation of Champlain's fort as figured + on his map of 1632, particularly with reference to Oneida Lake, we + shall observe a remarkable correspondence between it and the site of + the Indian fort at Nichols's Pond. Both are on the south of Oneida + Lake, and both are on streams which flow into that lake by running in a + north-westerly direction. Moreover, the site of the old fort at + Nichols's Pond is situated on a peninsula like that of Champlain; and + not only so, but it is on a peninsula formed by a pond on one side, and + by two streams of water on two other opposite sides; thus fulfilling in + a remarkable degree the conditions contained in Champlain's drawing of + the fort. + + If the reader has carefully examined and compared the evidences + referred to in this note, he will have seen that all the distinguishing + circumstances contained in the text of Champlain's journal, on the map + of 1632, and in his drawing of the fort, converge to and point out this + spot on Nichols's Pond, as the probable site of the palisaded Iroquois + town attacked by Champlain in 1615. + + We are indebted to General John S. Clark, of Auburn, N.Y., for pointing + out and identifying the peninsula at Nichols's Pond as the site of the + Iroquois fort.--_Vide Shea's Notes on Champlain's Expedition into + Western New York in 1615, and the Recent Identification of the Fort_, + by General John S Clark, _Pennsylvania Magazine of History_, + Philadelphia, Vol. II. pp. 103-108; also _A Lost Point in History_, by + L. W. Ledyard, _Cazenovia Republican_, Vol. XXV. No 47; _Champlain's + Invasion of Onondaga_, by the Rev. W. M. Beauchamp, _Baldwinsville + Gazette_, for June 27, 1879. + + We are indebted to Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq., of Buffalo, N.Y., for + proving the site of the Iroquois fort to be in the neighborhood of + Oneida Lake, and not at a point farther west as claimed by several + authors.--_Vide Proceedings of the New York Historical Society_ for + 1849, p. 96; _Magazine of American History_, New York, Vol. I. pp. + 1-13, Vol. II. pp. 470-483. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RETURN FROM THE HURON COUNTRY AND VOYAGE TO FRANCE.--THE +CONTRACTED VIEWS OF THE COMPANY OF MERCHANTS.--THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ SELLS +THE VICEROYALTY TO THE DUKE DE MONTMORENCY.--CHAMPLAIN WITH HIS WIFE +RETURNS TO QUEBEC, WHERE HE REMAINS FOUR YEARS.--HAVING REPAIRED THE +BUILDINGS AND ERECTED THE FORTRESS OF ST. LOUIS, CHAMPLAIN RETURNS TO +FRANCE.--THE VICEROYALTY TRANSFERRED TO HENRY DE LEVI, AND THE COMPANY OF +THE HUNDRED ASSOCIATES ORGANIZED. + +About the 20th of May, Champlain, accompanied by the missionary, Le Caron, +escorted by a delegation of savages, set out from the Huron capital, in the +present county of Simcoe, on their return to Quebec. Pursuing the same +circuitous route by which they had come, they were forty days in reaching +the Falls of St. Louis, near Montreal, where they found Pont Gravé, just +arrived from France, who, with the rest, was much rejoiced at seeing +Champlain, since a rumor had gone abroad that he had perished among the +savages. + +The party arrived at Quebec on the 11th of July. A public service of +thanksgiving was celebrated by the Recollect Fathers for their safe return. +The Huron chief, D'Arontal, with whom Champlain had passed the winter and +who had accompanied him to Quebec, was greatly entertained and delighted +with the establishment of the French, the buildings and other accessories +of European life, so different from his own, and earnestly requested +Champlain to make a settlement at Montreal, that his whole tribe might come +and reside near them, safe under their protection against their Iroquois +enemies. + +Champlain did not remain at Quebec more than ten days, during which he +planned and put in execution the enlargement of their houses and fort, +increasing their capacity by at least one third. This he found necessary to +do for the greater convenience of the little colony, as well as for the +occasional entertainment of strangers. He left for France on the 20th day +of July, in company with the Recollect Fathers, Joseph le Caron and Denis +Jamay, the commissary of the mission, taking with them specimens of French +grain which had been produced near Quebec, to testify to the excellent +quality of the soil. They arrived at Honfleur in France on the 10th of +September, 1616. + +The exploration in the distant Indian territories which we have just +described in the preceding pages was the last made by Champlain. He had +plans for the survey of other regions yet unexplored, but the favorable +opportunity did not occur. Henceforth he directed his attention more +exclusively than he had hitherto done to the enlargement and strengthening +of his colonial plantation, without such success, we regret to say, as his +zeal, devotion, and labors fitly deserved. The obstacles that lay in his +way were insurmountable. The establishment or factory, we can hardly call +it a plantation, at Quebec, was the creature of a company of merchants. +They had invested considerable sums in shipping, buildings, and in the +employment of men, in order to carry on a trade in furs and peltry with the +Indians, and they naturally desired remunerative returns. This was the +limit of their purpose in making the investment. The corporators saw +nothing in their organization but a commercial enterprise yielding +immediate results. They were inspired by no generosity, no loyalty, or +patriotism that could draw from them a farthing to increase the wealth, +power, or aggrandizement of France. Under these circumstances, Champlain +struggled on for years against a current which he could barely direct, but +by no means control. + +Champlain made voyages to New France both in 1617 and in 1618. In the +latter year, among the Indians who came to Quebec for the purpose of trade, +appeared Étienne Brulé, the interpreter, who it will be remembered had been +despatched in 1615, when Champlain was among the Hurons, to the +Entouhonorons at Carantouan, to induce them to join in the attack of the +Iroquois in central New York. During the three years that had intervened, +nothing had been heard from him. Brulé related the story of his +extraordinary adventures, which Champlain has preserved, and which may be +found in the report of the voyage of 1618, in Volume III. of this work. +[84] + +At Quebec, he met numerous bands of Indians from remote regions, whom he +had visited in former years, and who, in fulfilment of their promises, had +come to barter their peltry for such commodities as suited their need or +fancy, and to renew and strengthen their friendship with the French. By +these repeated interviews, and the cordial reception and generous +entertainment which he always gave them, the Indians dwelling on the upper +waters of the Ottawa, along the borders of Lake Huron, or on the Georgian +Bay, formed a strong personal attachment to Champlain, and yearly brought +down their fleets of canoes heavily freighted with the valuable furs which +they had diligently secured during the preceding winter. His personal +influence with them, a power which he exercised with great delicacy, +wisdom, and fidelity, contributed largely to the revenues annually obtained +by the associated merchants. + +But Champlain desired more than this. He was not satisfied to be the agent +and chief manager of a company organized merely for the purpose of trade. +He was anxious to elevate the meagre factory at Quebec into the dignity and +national importance of a colonial plantation. For this purpose he had +tested the soil by numerous experiments, and had, from time to time, +forwarded to France specimens of ripened grain to bear testimony to its +productive quality. He even laid the subject before the Council of State, +and they gave it their cordial approbation. By these means giving emphasis +to his personal appeals, he succeeded at length in extorting from the +company a promise to enlarge the establishment to eighty persons, with +suitable equipments, farming implements, all kinds of feeds and domestic +animals, including cattle and sheep. But when the time came, this promise +was not fulfilled. Differences, bickerings, and feuds sprang up in the +company. Some wanted one thing, and some wanted another. Even religion cast +in an apple of discord. The Catholics wished to extend the faith of their +church into the wilds of Canada, while the Huguenots desired to prevent it, +or at least not to promote it by their own contributions. The company, +inspired by avarice and a desire to restrict the establishment to a mere +trading post, raised an issue to discredit Champlain. It was gravely +proposed that he should devote himself exclusively to exploration, and that +the government and trade should henceforth be under the direction and +control of Pont Gravé. But Champlain was not a man to be ejected from an +official position by those who had neither the authority to give it to him +or the power to take it away. Pont Gravé was his intimate, long-tried, and +trusted friend; and, while he regarded him with filial respect and +affection, he could not yield, even to him, the rights and honors which had +been accorded to him as a recognition, if not a reward, for many years of +faithful service, which he had rendered under circumstances of personal +hardship and danger. The king addressed a letter to the company, in which +he directed them to aid Champlain as much as possible in making +explorations, in settling the country, and cultivating the soil, while with +their agents in the traffic of peltry there should be no interference. But +the spirit of avarice could not be subdued by the mandate of the king. The +associated merchants were still, obstinate. Champlain had intended to take +his family to Canada that year, but he declined to make the voyage under +any implication of a divided authority. The vessel in which he was to sail +departed without him, and Pont Gravé spent the winter in charge of the +company's affairs at Quebec. + +Champlain, in the mean time, took such active measures as seemed necessary +to establish his authority as lieutenant of the viceroy, or governor of New +France. He appeared before the Council of State at Tours, and after an +elaborate argument and thorough discussion of the whole subject, obtained a +decree ordering that he should have the command at Quebec and at all other +settlements in New France, and that the company should abstain from any +interference with him in the discharge of the duties of his office. + +The Prince de Condé having recently been liberated from an imprisonment of +three years, governed by his natural avarice, was not unwilling to part +with his viceroyalty, and early in 1620 transferred it, for the +consideration of eleven thousand crowns, or about five hundred and fifty +pounds sterling, to his brother-in-law, the Duke de Montmorency, [85] at +that time high-admiral of France. The new viceroy appointed Champlain his +lieutenant, who immediately prepared to leave for Quebec. But when he +arrived at Honfleur, the company, displeased at the recent change, again +brought forward the old question of the authority which the lieutenant was +to exercise in New France. The time for discussion had, however, passed. No +further words were now to be wasted. The viceroy sent them a peremptory +order to desist from further interferences, or otherwise their ships, +already equipped for their yearly trade, would not be permitted to leave +port. This message from the high-admiral of France came with authority and +had the desired effect. + +Early in May, 1620, Champlain sailed from Honfleur, accompanied by his wife +and several Recollect friars, and, after a voyage of two months, arrived at +Tadoussac, where he was cordially greeted by his brother-in-law, Eustache +Boullé, who was very much astonished at the arrival of his sister, and +particularly that she was brave enough to encounter the dangers of the +ocean and take up her abode in a wilderness at once barren of both the +comforts and refinements of European life. + +On the 11th of July, Champlain left Tadoussac for Quebec, where he found +the whole establishment, after an absence of two years, in a condition of +painful neglect and disorder. He was cordially received, and becoming +ceremonies were observed to celebrate his arrival. A sermon composed for +the occasion was delivered by one of the Recollect Fathers, the commission +of the king and that of the viceroy appointing him to the sole command of +the colony were publicly read, cannon were discharged, and the little +populace, from loyal hearts, loudly vociferated _Vive le Roy!_ + +The attention of the lieutenant was at first directed to restoration and +repairs. The roof of the buildings no longer kept out the rain, nor the +walls the piercing fury of the winds. The gardens were in a state of +ruinous neglect, and the fields poorly and scantily cultivated. But the +zeal, energy, and industry of Champlain soon put every thing in repair, and +gave to the little settlement the aspect of neatness and thrift. When this +was accomplished, he laid the foundations of a fortress, which he called +the _Fort Saint Louis_, situated on the crest of the rocky elevation in the +rear of the settlement, about a hundred and seventy-two feet above the +surface of the river, a position which commanded the whole breadth of the +St. Lawrence at that narrow point. + +This work, so necessary for the protection and safety of the colony, +involving as it did some expense, was by no means satisfactory to the +Company of Associates. [86] Their general fault-finding and chronic +discontent led the Duke de Montmorency to adopt heroic measures to silence +their complaints. In the spring of 1621, he summarily dissolved the +association of merchants, which he denominated the "Company of Rouen and +St. Malo," and established another in its place. He continued Champlain in +the office of lieutenant, but committed all matters relating to trade to +William de Caen, a merchant of high standing, and to Émeric de Caen the +nephew of the former, a good naval captain. This new and hasty +reorganization, arbitrary if not illegal, however important it might seem +to the prosperity and success of the colony, laid upon Champlain new +responsibilities and duties at once delicate and difficult to discharge. +Though in form suppressed, the company did not yield either its existence +or its rights. Both the old and the new company were, by their agents, +early in New France, clamoring for their respective interests. De Caen, in +behalf of the new, insisted that the lieutenant ought to prohibit all trade +with the Indians by the old company, and, moreover, that he ought to seize +their property and hold it as security for their unpaid obligations. +Champlain, having no written authority for such a proceeding, and De Caen, +declining to produce any, did not approve the measure and declined to act. +The threats of De Caen that he would take the matter into his own hands, +and seize the vessel of the old company commanded by Pont Gravé and then in +port, were so violent that Champlain thought it prudent to place a body of +armed men in his little fort still unfinished, until the fury of the +altercation should subside. [87] This decisive measure, and time, the +natural emollient of irritated tempers, soon restored peace to the +contending parties, and each was allowed to carry on its trade unmolested +by the other. The prudence of Champlain's conduct was fully justified, and +the two companies, by mutual consent, were, the next year, consolidated +into one. + +Champlain remained at Quebec four years before again returning to France. +His time was divided between many local enterprises of great importance. +His special attention was given to advancing the work on the unfinished +fort, in order to provide against incursions of the hostile Iroquois, [88] +who at one time approached the very walls of Quebec, and attacked +unsuccessfully the guarded house of the Recollects on the St. Charles. [89] +He undertook the reconstruction of the buildings of the settlement from +their foundations. The main structure was enlarged to a hundred and eight +feet [90] in length, with two wings of sixty feet each, having small towers +at the four corners. In front and on the borders of the river a platform +was erected, on which were placed cannon, while the whole was surrounded by +a ditch spanned by drawbridges. + +Having placed every thing at Quebec in as good order as his limited means +would permit, and given orders for the completion of the works which he had +commenced, leaving Émeric de Caen in command, Champlain determined to +return to France with his wife, who, though devoted to a religious life, we +may well suppose was not unwilling to exchange the rough, monotonous, and +dreary mode of living at Quebec for the more congenial refinements to which +she had always been accustomed in her father's family near the court of +Louis XIII. He accordingly sailed on the 15th of August, and arrived at +Dieppe on the 1st of October, 1624. He hastened to St. Germain, and +reported to the king and the viceroy what had occurred and what had been +done during the four years of his absence. + +The interests of the two companies had not been adjusted and they were +still in conflict. The Duke de Montmorency about this time negotiated a +sale of his viceroyalty to his nephew, Henry de Levi, Duke de Ventadour. +This nobleman, of a deeply religious cast of mind, had taken holy orders, +and his chief purpose in obtaining the viceroyalty was to encourage the +planting of Catholic missions in New France. As his spiritual directors +were Jesuits, he naturally committed the work to them. Three fathers and +two lay brothers of this order were sent to Canada in 1625, and others +subsequently joined them. Whatever were the fruits of their labors, many of +them perished in their heroic undertaking, manfully suffering the exquisite +pains of mutilation and torture. + +Champlain was reappointed lieutenant, but remained in France two years, +fully occupied with public and private duties, and in frequent +consultations with the viceroy as to the best method of advancing the +future interests of the colony. On the 15th of April, 1626, with Eustache +Boullé, his brother-in-law, who had been named his assistant or lieutenant, +he again sailed for Quebec, where he arrived on the 5th of July. He found +the colonists in excellent health, but nevertheless approaching the borders +of starvation, having nearly exhausted their provisions. The work that he +had laid out to be done on the buildings had been entirely neglected. One +important reason for this neglect, was the necessary employment of a large +number of the most efficient laborers, for the chief part of the summer in +obtaining forage for their cattle in winter, collecting it at a distance of +twenty-five or thirty miles from the settlement. To obviate this +inconvenience, Champlain took an early opportunity to erect a farm-house +near the natural meadows at Cape Tourmente, where the cattle could be kept +with little attendance, appointing at the same time an overseer for the +men, and making a weekly visit to this establishment for personal +inspection and oversight. + +The fort, which had been erected on the crest of the rocky height in the +rear of the dwelling, was obviously too small for the protection of the +whole colony in case of an attack by hostile savages. He consequently took +it down and erected another on the same spot, with earthworks on the land +side, where alone, with difficulty, it could be approached. He also made +extensive repairs upon the storehouse and dwelling. + +During the winter of 1626-27, the friendly Indians, the Montagnais, +Algonquins, and others gave Champlain much anxiety by unadvisedly entering +into an alliance, into which they were enticed by bribes, with a tribe +dwelling near the Dutch, in the present State of New York, to assist them +against their old enemies, the Iroquois, with whom, however, they had for +some time been at peace. Champlain justly looked upon this foolish +undertaking as hazardous not only to the prosperity of these friendly +tribes, but to their very existence. He accordingly sent his brother-in-law +to Three Rivers, the rendezvous of the savage warriors, to convince them of +their error and avert their purpose. Boullé succeeded in obtaining a delay +until all the tribes should be assembled and until the trading vessels +should arrive from France. When Émeric de Caen was ready to go to Three +Rivers, Champlain urged upon him the great importance of suppressing this +impending conflict with the Iroquois. The efforts of De Caen were, however, +ineffectual. He forthwith wrote to Champlain that his presence was +necessary to arrest these hostile proceedings. On his arrival, a grand +council was assembled, and Champlain succeeded, after a full statement of +all the evils that must evidently follow, in reversing their decision, and +messengers were sent to heal the breach. Some weeks afterward news came +that the embassadors were inhumanly massacred. + +Crimes of a serious nature were not unfrequently committed against the +French by Indians belonging to tribes, with which they were at profound +peace. On one occasion two men, who were conducting cattle by land from +Cape Tourmente to Quebec, were assassinated in a cowardly manner. Champlain +demanded of the chiefs that they should deliver to him the perpetrators of +the crime. They expressed genuine sorrow for what had taken place, but were +unable to obtain the criminals. At length, after consulting with the +missionary, Le Caron, they offered to present to Champlain three young +girls as pledges of their good faith, that he might educate them in the +religion and manners of the French. The gift was accepted by Champlain, and +these savage maidens became exceedingly attached to their foster-father, as +we shall see in the sequel. + +The end of the year 1627 found the colony, as usual, in a depressed state. +As a colony, it had never prospered. The average number composing it had +not exceeded about fifty persons. At this time it may have been somewhat +more, but did not reach a hundred. A single family only appears to have +subsisted by the cultivation of the soil. [91] The rest were sustained by +supplies sent from France. From the beginning disputes and contentions had +prevailed in the corporation. Endless bickerings sprung up between the +Huguenots and Catholics, each sensitive and jealous of their rights. [92] +All expenditures were the subject of censorious criticism. The necessary +repairs of the fort, the enlargement and improvement of the buildings from +time to time, were too often resisted as unnecessary and extravagant. The +company, as a mere trading association, was doubtless successful. Large +quantities of peltry were annually brought by the Indians for traffic to +the Falls of St. Louis, Three Rivers, Quebec, and Tadoussac. The average +number of beaver-skins annually purchased and transported to France was +probably not far from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand, and in a most +favorable year it mounted up to twenty-two thousand. [93] The large +dividends that they were able to make, intimated by Champlain to be not far +from forty per centum yearly, were, of course, highly satisfactory to the +company. They desired not to impair this characteristic of their +enterprise. They had, therefore, a prime motive for not wishing to lay out +a single unnecessary franc on the establishment. Their policy was to keep +the expenses at the minimum and the net income at the maximum. Under these +circumstances, nearly twenty years had elapsed since the founding of +Quebec, and it still possessed only the character of a trading post, and +not that of a colonial plantation. This progress was satisfactory neither +to Champlain, to the viceroy, nor the council of state. In the view of +these several interested parties, the time had come for a radical change in +the organization of the company. Cardinal de Richelieu had risen by his +extraordinary ability as a statesman, a short time anterior to this, into +supreme authority, and had assumed the office of grand master and chief of +the navigation and commerce of France. His sagacious and comprehensive mind +saw clearly the intimate and interdependent relations between these two +great national interests and the enlargement and prosperity of the French +colonies in America. He lost no time in organizing measures which should +bring them into the closest harmony. The company of merchants whose +finances had been so skilfully managed by the Caens was by him at once +dissolved. A new one was formed, denominated _La Compagnie de la +Nouvelle-France_, consisting of a hundred or more members, and commonly +known as the Company of the Hundred Associates. It was under the control +and management of Richelieu himself. Its members were largely gentlemen in +official positions about the court, in Paris, Rouen, and other cities of +France. Among them were the Marquis Deffiat, superintendent of finances, +Claude de Roquemont, the Commander de Razilly, Captain Charles Daniel, +Sébastien Cramoisy, the distinguished Paris printer, Louis Houêl, the +controller of the salt works in Brouage, Champlain, and others well known +in public circles. + +The new company had many characteristics which seemed to assure the solid +growth and enlargement of the colony. Its authority extended over the whole +domain of New France and Florida. It provided in its organization for an +actual capital of three hundred thousand livres. It entered into an +obligation to send to Canada in 1628 from two to three hundred artisans of +all trades, and within the space of fifteen years to transport four +thousand colonists to New France. The colonists were to be wholly supported +by the company for three years, and at the expiration of that period were +to be assigned as much land as they needed for cultivation. The settlers +were to be native-born Frenchmen, exclusively of the Catholic faith, and no +foreigner or Huguenot was to be permitted to enter the country. [94] The +charter accorded to the company the exclusive control of trade and all +goods manufactured in New France were to be free of imposts on exportation. +Besides these, it secured to the corporators other and various exclusive +privileges of a semifeudal character, supposed, however, to contribute to +the prosperity and growth of the colony. + +The organization of the company, having received the formal approbation of +Richelieu on the 29th of April, 1627, was ratified by the Council of State +on the 6th of May, 1628. + +ENDNOTES: + +84. The character of Étienne Brulé, either for honor or veracity, is not + improved by his subsequent conduct. He appears in 1629 to have turned + traitor, to have sold himself to the English, and to have piloted them + up the river in their expedition against Quebec. Whether this conduct, + base certainly it was, ought to affect the credibility of his story, + the reader must judge. Champlain undoubtedly believed it when he first + related it to him. He probably had no means then or afterwards of + testing its truth. In the edition of 1632, Brulé's story is omitted. It + does not necessarily follow that it was omitted because Champlain came + to discredit the story, since many passages contained in his preceding + publications are omitted in the edition of 1632, but they are not + generally passages of so much geographical importance as this, if it be + true. The map of 1632 indicates the country of the Carantouanais; but + this information might have been obtained by Champlain from the Hurons, + or the more western tribes which he visited during the winter of + 1615-16.--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 220. + +85. Henry de Montmorency II was born at Chantilly in 1595, and was beheaded + at Toulouse Oct 30, 1632. He was created admiral at the age of + seventeen He commanded the Dutch fleet at the siege of Rochelle. He + made the campaigns of 1629 and 1630 in Piedmont, and was created a + marshal of France after the victory of Veillane. He adopted the party + of Gaston, the Duke of Orleans, and having excited the province of + Languedoc of which he was governor to rebellion, he was defeated, and + executed as guilty of high treason. He was the last scion of the elder + branch of Montmorency and his death was a fatal blow to the reign of + feudalism. + +86. Among other annoyances which Champlain had to contend against was the + contraband trade carried on by the unlicensed Rochellers, who not only + carried off quantities of peltry, but even supplied the Indians with + fire-arms and ammunition This was illegal, and endangered the safety of + the colony--_Vide Voyages par De Champlain_, Paris, 1632, Sec Partie, p + 3. + +87. _Vide_ ed 1632, Sec Partie, Chap III. + +88. _Vide Hist. New France_, by Charlevoix, Shea's. Trans., Vol. II. p. 32. + +89. The house of the Recollects on the St. Charles was erected in 1620, and + was called the _Conuent de Nostre Dame Dame des Anges_. The Father Jean + d'Olbeau laid the first stone on the 3d of June of that year.--_Vide + Histoire du Canada_ par Gabriel Sagard, Paris, 1636, Tross ed., 1866, + p. 67; _Découvertes et Êtablissements des Français, dans Pouest et dans + le sud de L'Amerique Septentrionale_ 1637, par Pierre Margry, Paris, + 1876, Vol. I. p. 7. + +90. _Hundred and eight feet_, dix-huiet toyses. The _toise_ here estimated + at six feet. Compare _Voyages de Champlain_, Laverdière's ed., Vol. I. + p. lii, and ed. 1632, Paris, Partie Seconde, p. 63. + +91. There was but one private house at Quebec in 1623, and that belonged to + Madame Hébert, whose husband was the first to attempt to obtain a + living by the cultivation of the soil.--_Vide Sagard, Hist, du Canada_, + 1636, Tross ed. Vol. I. p. 163 There were fifty-one inhabitants at + Quebec in 1624, including men, women, and children.--_Vide Champlain_, + ed. 1632, p. 76. + +92. _Vide Champlain_, ed. 1632, pp. 107, 108, for an account of the attempt + on the part of the Huguenot, Émeric de Caen, to require his sailors to + chaunt psalms and say prayers on board his ship after entering the + River St. Lawrence, contrary to the direction of the Viceroy, the Duke + de Ventadour. As two thirds of them were Huguenots, it was finally + agreed that they should continue to say their prayers, but must omit + their psalm-singing. + +93. Father Lalemant enumerates the kind of peltry obtained by the French + from the Indians, and the amount, as follows. "En eschange ils + emportent des peaux d'Orignac, de Loup Ceruier, de Renard, de Loutre, + et quelquefois il s'en rencontre de noires, de Martre, de Blaireau et + de Rat Musqué, mais principalement de Castor qui est le plus grand de + leur gain. On m'a dit que pour vne année ils en auoyent emporté iusques + à 22000. L'ordinaire de chaque année est de 15000, ou 20000, à une + pistole la pièce, ce n'est pas mal allé."--_Vide Rélation de la + Nouvelle France en l'Année_ 1626, Quebec ed. p. 5. + +94. This exclusiveness was characteristic of the age. Cardinal Richelieu + and his associates were not qualified by education or by any tendency + of their natures to inaugurate a reformation in this direction. The + experiment of amalgamating Catholic and Huguenot in the enterprises of + the colony had been tried but with ill success. Contentions and + bickerings had been incessant, and subversive of peace and good + neighborhood. Neither party had the spirit of practical toleration as + we understand it, and which we regard at the present day as a priceless + boon. Nor was it understood anywhere for a long time afterward. Even + the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay did not comprehend it, and took + heroic measures to exclude from their commonwealth those who differed + from them in their religious faith. We certainly cannot censure them + for not being in advance of their times. It would doubtless have been + more manly in them had they excluded all differing from them by plain + legal enactment, as did the Society of the Hundred Associates, rather + than to imprison or banish any on charges which all subsequent + generations must pronounce unsustained _Vide Memoir of the Rev. John + Wheelwright_, by Charles H. Bell, Prince Society, ed. 1876, pp. 9-31 + _et passim; Hutchinson Papers_, Prince Society ed., 1865, Vol. I. pp. + 79-113. American _Criminal Trials_, by Peleg W. Chandler, Boston, 1841, + Vol. I. p. 29. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE FAVORABLE PROSPECTS OF THE COMPANY OF NEW FRANCE.--THE ENGLISH INVASION +OF CANADA AND THE SURRENDER OF QUEBEC--CAPTAIN DANIEL PLANTS A FRENCH +COLONY NEAR THE GRAND CIBOU--CHAMPLAIN IN FRANCE, AND THE TERRITORIAL +CLAIMS OF THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH STILL UNSETTLED + +The Company of New France, or of the Hundred Associates, lost no time in +carrying out the purpose of its organization. Even before the ratification +of its charter by the council, four armed vessels had been fitted out and +had already sailed under the command of Claude de Roquemont, a member of +the company, to convoy a fleet of eighteen transports laden with emigrants +and stores, together with one hundred and thirty-five pieces of ordnance to +fortify their settlements in New France. + +The company, thus composed of noblemen, wealthy merchants, and officials of +great personal influence, with a large capital, and Cardinal Richelieu, who +really controlled and shaped the policy of France at that period, at its +head possessed so many elements of strength that, in the reasonable +judgment of men, success was assured, failure impossible. [95] + +To Champlain, the vision of a great colonial establishment in New France, +that had so long floated before him in the distance, might well seem to be +now almost within his grasp. But disappointment was near at hand. Events +were already transpiring which were destined to cast a cloud over these +brilliant hopes. A fleet of armed vessels was already crossing the +Atlantic, bearing the English flag, with hostile intentions to the +settlements in New France. Here we must pause in our narrative to explain +the origin, character, and purpose of this armament, as unexpected to +Champlain as it was unwelcome. + +The reader must be reminded that no boundaries between the French and +English territorial possessions in North America at this time existed. Each +of these great nations was putting forth claims so broad and extensive as +to utterly exclude the other. By their respective charters, grants, and +concessions, they recognized no sovereignty or ownership but their own. + +Henry IV. of France, made, in 1603, a grant to a favorite nobleman, De +Monts, of the territory lying between the fortieth and the forty-sixth +degrees of north latitude. James I. of England, three years later, in 1606, +granted to the Virginia Companies the territory lying between the +thirty-fourth and the forty-eighth degrees of north latitude, covering the +whole grant made by the French three years before. Creuxius, a French +historian of Canada, writing some years later than this, informs us that +New France, that is, the French possessions in North America, then embraced +the immense territory extending from Florida, or from the thirty-second +degree of latitude, to the polar circle, and in longitude from Newfoundland +to Lake Huron. It will, therefore, be seen that each nation, the English +and the French, claimed at that time sovereignty over the same territory, +and over nearly the whole of the continent of North America. Under these +circumstances, either of these nations was prepared to avail itself of any +favorable opportunity to dispossess the other. + +The English, however, had, at this period, particular and special reasons +for desiring to accomplish this important object. Sir William Alexander, +[96] Secretary of State for Scotland at the court of England, had received, +in 1621, from James I., a grant, under the name of New Scotland, of a large +territory, covering the present province of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and +that part of the province of Quebec lying east of a line drawn from the +head-waters of the River St. Croix in a northerly direction to the River +St. Lawrence. He had associated with him a large number of Scottish +noblemen and merchants, and was taking active measures to establish +Scottish colonies on this territory. The French had made a settlement +within its limits, which had been broken up and the colony dispersed in +1613, by Captain Samuel Argall, under the authority of Sir Thomas Dale, +governor of the colony at Jamestown, Virginia. A desultory and straggling +French population was still in occupation, under the nominal governorship +of Claude La Tour. Sir William Alexander and his associates naturally +looked for more or less inconvenience and annoyance from the claims of the +French. It was, therefore, an object of great personal importance and +particularly desired by him, to extinguish all French claims, not only to +his own grant, but to the neighboring settlement at Quebec. If this were +done, he might be sure of being unmolested in carrying forward his colonial +enterprise. + +A war had broken out between France and England the year before, for the +ostensible purpose, on the part of the English, of relieving the Huguenots +who were shut up in the city of Rochelle, which was beleaguered by the +armies of Louis XIII, under the direction of his prime minister, Richelieu, +who was resolved to reduce this last stronghold to obedience. The existence +of this war offered an opportunity and pretext for dispossessing the French +and extinguishing their claims under the rules of war. This object could +not be attained in any other way. The French were too deeply rooted to be +removed by any less violent or decisive means. No time was, therefore, lost +in taking advantage of this opportunity. + +Sir William Alexander applied himself to the formation of a company of +London merchants who should bear the expense of fitting out an armament +that should not only overcome and take possession of the French settlements +and forts wherever they should be found, but plant colonies and erect +suitable defences to hold them in the future. The company was speedily +organized, consisting of Sir William Alexander, junior, Gervase Kirke, +Robert Charlton, William Berkeley, and perhaps others, distinguished +merchants of London. [97] Six ships were equipped with a suitable armament +and letters of marque, and despatched on their hostile errand. Capt. David +Kirke, afterwards Sir David, was appointed admiral of the fleet, who +likewise commanded one of the ships. [98] His brothers, Lewis Kirke and +Thomas Kirke, were in command of two others. They sailed under a royal +patent executed in favor of Sir William Alexander, junior, son of the +secretary, and others, granting exclusive authority to trade, seize, and +confiscate French or Spanish ships and destroy the French settlements on +the river and Gulf of St. Lawrence and parts adjacent. + +Kirke sailed, with a part if not the whole of his fleet, to Annapolis Basin +in the Bay of Fundy, and took possession of the desultory French settlement +to which we have already referred. He left a Scotch colony there, under the +command of Sir William Alexander, junior, as governor. The fleet finally +rendezvoused at Tadoussac, capturing all the French fishing barques, boats, +and pinnaces which fell in its way on the coast of Nova Scotia, including +the Island of Cape Breton. + +From Tadoussac, Kirke despatched a shallop to Quebec, in charge of six +Basque fishermen whom he had recently captured. They were bearers of an +official communication from the admiral of the English fleet to Champlain. +About the same time he sent up the river, likewise, an armed barque, well +manned, which anchored off Cape Tourmente, thirty miles below Quebec, near +an outpost which had been established by Champlain for the convenience of +forage and pasturage for cattle. Here a squad of men landed, took four men, +a woman, and little girl prisoners, killed such of the cattle as they +desired for use and burned the rest in the stables, as likewise two small +houses, pillaging and laying waste every thing they could find. Having done +this, the barque hastily returned to Tadoussac. + +We must now ask the reader to return with us to the little settlement at +Quebec. The proceedings which we have just narrated were as yet unknown to +Champlain. The summer of 1628 was wearing on, and no supplies had arrived +from France. It was obvious that some accident had detained the transports, +and they might not arrive at all. His provisions were nearly exhausted. To +subsist without a resupply was impossible. Each weary day added a new +keenness to his anxiety. A winter of destitution, of starvation and death +for his little colony of well on towards a hundred persons was the painful +picture that now constantly haunted his mind. To avoid this catastrophe, if +possible, he ordered a boat to be constructed, to enable him to communicate +with the lower waters of the gulf, where he hoped he might obtain +provisions from the fishermen on the coast, or transportation for a part or +the whole of his colony to France. + +On the 9th of July, two men came up from Cape Tourmente to announce that an +Indian had brought in the news that six large ships had entered and were +lying at anchor in the harbor of Tadoussac. The same day, not long after, +two canoes arrived, in one of which was Foucher, the chief herds-man at +Cape Tourmente, who had escaped from his captors, from whom Champlain first +learned what had taken place at that outpost. + +Sufficiently allured of the character of the enemy, Champlain hastened to +put the unfinished fort in as good condition as possible, appointing to +every man in the little garrison his post, so that all might be ready for +duty at a moment's warning. On the afternoon of the next day a small sail +came into the bay, evidently a stranger, directing its course not through +the usual channel, but towards the little River St. Charles. It was too +insignificant to cause any alarm. Champlain, however, sent a detachment of +arquebusiers to receive it. It proved to be English, and contained the six +Basque fishermen already referred to, charged by Kirke with despatches for +Champlain. They had met the armed barque returning to Tadoussac, and had +taken off and brought up with them the woman and little girl who had been +captured the day before at Cape Tourmente. + +The despatch, written two days before, and bearing date July 8th, 1628, was +a courteous invitation to surrender Quebec into the hands of the English, +assigning several natural and cogent reasons why if would be for the +interest of all parties for them to do so. Under different circumstances, +the reasoning might have had weight; but this English admiral had clearly +conceived a very inadequate idea of the character of Champlain, if he +supposed he would surrender his post, or even take it into consideration, +while the enemy demanding it and his means of enforcing it were at a +distance of at least a hundred miles. Champlain submitted the letter to +Pont Gravé and the other gentlemen of the colony, and we concluded, he +adds, that if the English had a desire to see us nearer, they must come to +us, and not threaten us from so great a distance. + +Champlain returned an answer declining the demand, couched in language of +respectful and dignified politeness. It is easy, however, to detect a tinge +of sarcasm running through it, so delicate as not to be offensive, and yet +sufficiently obvious to convey a serene indifference on the part of the +French commander as to what the English might think it best to do in the +sequel. The tone of the reply, the air of confidence pervading it, led +Kirke to believe that the French were in a far better condition to resist +than they really were. The English admiral thought it prudent to withdraw. +He destroyed all the French fishing vessels and boats at Tadoussac, and +proceeded down the gulf, to do the same along the coast. + +We have already alluded, in the preceding pages, to De Roquemont, the +French admiral, who had been charged by the Company of the Hundred +Associates to convoy a fleet of transports to Canada. Wholly ignorant of +the importance of an earlier arrival at Quebec, he appears to have moved +leisurely, and was now, with his whole fleet, lying at anchor in the Bay of +Gaspé. Hearing that Kirke was in the gulf, he very unwisely prepared to +give him battle, and moved out of the bay for that purpose. On the 18th of +July the two armaments met. Kirke had six armed vessels under his command, +while De Roquemont had but four. The conflict was unequal. The English +vessels were unencumbered and much heavier than those of the French. De +Roquemont [99] was soon overpowered and compelled to surrender His whole +fleet of twenty-two vessels, with a hundred and thirty-five pieces of +ordnance, together with supplies and colonists for Quebec, were all taken. +Kirke returned to England laden with the rich spoils of his conquest, +having practically accomplished, if not what he had intended, nevertheless +that which satisfied the avarice of the London merchants under whose +auspices the expedition had sailed. The capture of Quebec had from the +beginning been the objective purpose of Sir William Alexander. The taking +of this fleet and the cutting off their supplies was an important step in +this undertaking. The conquest was thereby assured, though not completed. + +Champlain, having despatched his reply to Kirke, naturally supposed he +would soon appear before Quebec to carry out his threat. He awaited this +event with great anxiety About ten days after the messengers had departed, +a young Frenchman, named Desdames, armed in a small boat, having been sent +by De Roquemont, the admiral of the new company, to inform Champlain that +he was then at Gaspé with a large fleet, bringing colonists, arms, stores, +and provisions for the settlement. Desdames also stated that De Roquemont +intended to attack the English, and that on his way he had heard the report +of cannon, which led him to believe that a conflict had already taken +place. Champlain heard nothing more from the lower St. Lawrence until the +next May, when an Indian from Tadoussac brought the story of De Roquemont's +defeat. + +In the mean time, Champlain resorted to every expedient to provide +subsistence for his famishing colony. Even at the time when the surrender +was demanded by the English, they were on daily rations of seven ounces +each. The means of obtaining food were exceedingly slender. Fishing could +not be prosecuted to any extent, for the want of nets, lines, and hooks. Of +gunpowder they had less than fifty pounds, and a possible attack by +treacherous savages rendered it inexpedient to expend it in hunting game. +Moreover, they had no salt for curing or preserving the flesh of such wild +animals as they chanced to take. The few acres cultivated by the +missionaries and the Hébert family, and the small gardens about the +settlement, could yield but little towards sustaining nearly a hundred +persons for the full term of ten months, the shortest period in which they +could reasonably expect supplies from France. A system of the utmost +economy was instituted. A few eels were purchased by exchange of +beaver-skins from the Indians. Pease were reduced to flour first by mortars +and later by hand-mills constructed for the purpose, and made into a soup +to add flavor to other less palatable food. Thus economising their +resources, the winter finally wore away, but when the spring came, their +scanty means were entirely exhausted. Henceforth their sole reliance was +upon the few fish that could be taken from the river, and the edible roots +gathered day by day from the fields and forests. An attempt was made to +quarter some of the men upon the friendly Indians, but with little success. +Near the last of June, thirty of the colony, men, women, and children, +unwilling to remain longer at Quebec, were despatched to Gaspé, twenty of +them to reside there with the Indians, the others to seek a passage to +France by some of the foreign fishing-vessels on the coast. This detachment +was conducted by Eustache Boullé, the brother-in-law of Champlain. The +remnant of the little colony, disheartened by the gloomy prospect before +them and exhausted by hunger, continued to drag out a miserable existence, +gathering sustenance for the wants of each day, without knowing what was to +supply the demands of the next. + +On the 19th of July, 1629, three English vessels were seen from the fort at +Quebec, distant not more than three miles, approaching under full sail +[100] Their purpose could not be mistaken. Champlain called a council, in +which it was decided at once to surrender, but only on good terms; +otherwise, to resist to their utmost with such slender means as they had. +The little garrison of sixteen men, all his available force, hastened to +their posts. A flag of truce soon brought a summons from the brothers, +Lewis and Thomas Kirke, couched in courteous language, asking the surrender +of the fort and settlement, and promising such honorable and reasonable +terms as Champlain himself might dictate. + +To this letter Champlain [101] replied that he had not, in his present +circumstances, the power of resisting their demand, and that on the morrow +he would communicate the conditions on which he would deliver up the +settlement; but, in the mean time, he must request them to retire beyond +cannon-shot, and not attempt to land. On the evening of the same day the +articles of capitulation were delivered, which were finally, with very +little variation, agreed to by both parties. + +The whole establishment at Quebec, with all the movable property belonging +to it, was to be surrendered into the hands of the English. The colonists +were to be transported to France, nevertheless, by the way of England. The +officers were permitted to leave with their arms, clothes, and the peltries +belonging to them as personal property. The soldiers were allowed their +clothes and a beaver-robe each; the missionaries, their robes and books. +This agreement was subsequently ratified at Tadoussac by David Kirke, the +admiral of the fleet, on the 19th of August, 1629. + +On the 20th of July, Lewis Kirke, vice-admiral, at the head of two hundred +armed men, [102] took formal possession of Quebec, in the name of Charles +I., the king of England. The English flag was hoisted over the Fort of St. +Louis. Drums beat and cannon were discharged in token of the accomplished +victory. + +The English demeaned themselves with exemplary courtesy and kindness +towards their prisoners of war. Champlain was requested to continue to +occupy his accustomed quarters until he should leave Quebec; the holy mass +was celebrated at his request; and an inventory of what was found in the +habitation and fort was prepared and placed in his hand, a document which +proved to be of service in the sequel. The colonists were naturally anxious +as to the disposition of their lands and effects; but their fears were +quieted when they were all cordially invited to remain in the settlement, +assured, moreover, that they should have the same privileges and security +of person and property which they had enjoyed from their own government. +This generous offer of the English, and their kind and considerate +treatment of them, induced the larger part of the colonists to remain. + +On the 24th of July, Champlain, exhausted by a year of distressing anxiety +and care, and depressed by the adverse proceedings going on about him, +embarked on the vessel of Thomas Kirke for Tadoussac, to await the +departure of the fleet for England. Before reaching their destination, they +encountered a French ship laden with merchandise and supplies, commanded by +Émeric de Caen, who was endeavoring to reach Quebec for the purpose of +trade and obtaining certain peltry and other property stored at that place, +belonging to his uncle, William de Caen. A conflict was inevitable. The two +vessels met. The struggle was severe, and, for a time, of doubtful result. +At length the French cried for quarter. The combat ceased. De Caen asked +permission to speak with Champlain. This was accorded by Kirke, who +informed him, if another shot were fired, it would be at the peril of his +life. Champlain was too old a soldier and too brave a man to be influenced +by an appeal to his personal fears. He coolly replied, It will be an easy +matter for you to take my life, as I am in your power, but it would be a +disgraceful act, as you would violate your sacred promise. I cannot command +the men in the ship, or prevent their doing their duty as brave men should; +and you ought to commend and not blame them. + +De Caen's ship was borne as a prize into the harbor of Tadoussac, and +passed for the present into the vortex of general confiscation. + +Champlain remained at Tadoussac until the fleet was ready to return to +England. In the mean time, he was courteously entertained by Sir David +Kirke. He was, however, greatly pained and disappointed that the admiral +was unwilling that he should take with him to France two Indian girls who +had been presented to him a year or two before, and whom he had been +carefully instructing in religion and manners, and whom he loved as his own +daughters. Kirke, however, was inexorable. Neither reason, entreaty, nor +the tears of the unhappy maidens could move him. As he could not take them +with him, Champlain administered to them such consolation as he could, +counselling them to be brave and virtuous, and to continue to say the +prayers that he had taught them. It was a relief to his anxiety at last to +be able to obtain from Mr. Couillard, [103] one of the earliest settlers at +Quebec, the promise that they should remain in the care of his wife, while +the girls, on their part, assured him that they would be as daughters to +their new foster-parents until his return to New France. + +Quebec having been provisioned and garrisoned, the fleet sailed for England +about the middle of September, and arrived at Plymouth on the 20th of +November. On the 27th, the missionaries and others who wished to return to +France, disembarked at Dover, while Champlain was taken to London, where he +arrived on the 29th. + +At Plymouth, Kirke learned that a peace between France and England had been +concluded on the 24th of the preceding April, nearly three months before +Quebec had been taken; consequently, every thing that had been done by this +expedition must, sooner or later, be reversed. The articles of peace had +provided that all conquests subsequent to the date of that instrument +should be restored. It was evident that Quebec, the peltry, and other +property taken there, together with the fishing-vessels and others captured +in the gulf, must be restored to the French. To Kirke and the Company of +London Merchants this was a bitter disappointment. Their expenditures had +been large in the first instance; the prizes of the year before, the fleet +of the Hundred Associates which they had captured, had probably all been +absorbed in the outfit of the present expedition, comprising the six +vessels and two pinnaces with which Kirke had sailed for the conquest of +Quebec. Sir William Alexander had obtained, in the February preceding, from +Charles I., a royal charter of THE COUNTRY AND LORDSHIP OF CANADA IN +AMERICA, [104] embracing a belt of territory one hundred leagues in width, +covering both sides of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Pacific +Ocean. This charter with the most ample provisions had been obtained in +anticipation of the taking of Quebec, and in order to pave the way for an +immediate occupation and settlement of the country. Thus a plan for the +establishment of an English colonial empire on the banks of the St. +Lawrence had been deliberately formed, and down to the present moment +offered every prospect of a brilliant success. But a cloud had now swept +along the horizon and suddenly obscured the last ray of hope. The proceeds +of their two years of incessant labor, and the large sums which they had +risked in the enterprise, had vanished like a mist in the morning sun. But, +as the cause of the English became more desperate, the hopes of the French +revived. The losses of the latter were great and disheartening; but they +saw, nevertheless, in the distance, the long-cherished New France of the +past rising once more into renewed strength and beauty. + +On his arrival at London, Champlain immediately put himself in +communication with Monsieur de Châteauneuf, the French ambassador, laid +before him the original of the capitulation, a map of the country, and such +other memoirs as were needed to show the superior claims of the French to +Quebec on the ground both of discovery and occupation. [105] Many questions +arose concerning the possession and ownership of the peltry and other +property taken by the English, and, during his stay, Champlain contributed +as far as possible to the settlement of these complications. It is somewhat +remarkable that during this time the English pretended to hold him as a +prisoner of war, and even attempted to extort a ransom from him, [106] +pressing the matter so far that Champlain felt compelled to remonstrate +against a demand so extraordinary and so obviously unjust, as he was in no +sense a prisoner of war, and likewise to state his inability to pay a +ransom, as his whole estate in France did not exceed seven hundred pounds +sterling. + +After having remained a month in London, Champlain was permitted to depart +for France, arriving on the last day of December. + +At Dieppe he met Captain Daniel, from whom he learned that Richelieu and +the Hundred Associates had not been unmindful of the pressing wants of +their colony at Quebec. Arrangements had been made early in the year 1629 +to send to Champlain succor and supplies, and a fleet had been organized to +be conducted thither by the Commander Isaac de Razilly. While preparations +were in progress, peace was concluded between France and England on the +24th of April. It was, consequently, deemed unnecessary to accompany the +transports by an armed force, and thereupon Razilly's orders were +countermanded, while Captain Daniel of Dieppe, [107] whose services had +been engaged, was sent forward with four vessels and a barque belonging to +the company, to carry supplies to Quebec. A storm scattered his fleet, but +the vessel under his immediate command arrived on the coast of the Island +of Cape Breton, and anchored on the 18th of September, _novo stylo_, in the +little harbor of Baleine, situated about six miles easterly from the +present site of Louisburgh, now famous in the annals of that island. Here +he was surprised to find a British settlement. Lord Ochiltrie, better known +as Sir James Stuart, a Scottish nobleman, had obtained a grant, through Sir +William Alexander, of the Island of Cape Breton, and had, on the 10th of +the July preceding, _novo stylo_, planted there a colony of sixty persons, +men, women, and children, and had thrown up for their protection a +temporary fort. Daniel considered this an intrusion upon French soil. He +accordingly made a bloodless capture of the fortress at Baleine, demolished +it, and, sailing to the north and sweeping round to the west, entered an +estuary which he says the savages called Grand Cibou? [108] where he +erected a fort and left a garrison of forty men, with provisions and all +necessary means of defence. Having set up the arms of the King of France +and those of Cardinal Richelieu, erected a house, chapel, and magazine, and +leaving two Jesuit missionaries, the fathers Barthélémy Vimond and +Alexander de Vieuxpont, he departed, taking with him the British colonists, +forty-two of whom he landed near Falmouth in England, and eighteen, +including Lord Ochiltrie, he carried into France. This settlement at the +Bay of St. Anne, or Port Dauphin, accidentally established and inadequately +sustained, lingered a few years and finally disappeared. + +Having received the above narrative from Captain Daniel, Champlain soon +after proceeded to Paris, and laid the whole subject of the unwarrantable +proceedings of the English in detail before the king, Cardinal Richelieu, +and the Company of New France, and urged the importance of regaining +possession as early as possible of the plantation from which they had been +unjustly ejected. The English king did not hesitate at an early day to +promise the restoration of Quebec, and, in fact, after some delay, all +places which were occupied by the French at the outbreak of the war. The +policy of the English ministers appears, however, to have been to postpone +the execution of this promise as long as possible, probably with the hope +that something might finally occur to render its fulfilment unnecessary. +Sir William Alexander, the Earl of Stirling, who had very great influence +with Charles I, was particularly opposed to the restoration of the +settlement on the shores of Annapolis Basin. This fell within the limits of +the grant made to him in 1621, under the name of New Scotland, and a Scotch +colony was now in occupation. He contended that no proper French plantation +existed there at the opening of the war, and this was probably true; a few +French people were, indeed, living there, but under no recognized, +certainly no actual, authority or control of the crown of France, and +consequently they were under no obligation to restore it. But Charles I had +given his word that all places taken by the English should be restored as +they were before the war, and no argument or persuasions could change his +resolution to fulfil his promise. It was not, however, till after the lapse +of more than two years, owing, chiefly, to the opposition of Sir William +Alexander, that the restoration of Quebec and the plantation on Annapolis +Basin was fully assured by the treaty of St Germain en Laye, bearing date +March 29, 1632. The reader must be reminded that the text of the treaty +just mentioned and numerous contemporary documents show that the +restorations demanded by the French and granted by the English only related +to the places occupied by the French before the outbreak of the war, and +not to Canada or New France or to any large extent of provincial territory +whatever. [109] When the restorations were completed, the boundary lines +distinguishing the English and French possessions in America were still +unsettled, the territorial rights of both nations were still undefined, and +each continued, as they had done before the war, to claim the same +territory as a part of their respective possessions. Historians, giving to +this treaty a superficial examination, and not considering it in connection +with contemporary documents, have, from that time to the present, fallen +into the loose and unauthorized statement that, by the treaty of St. +Germain en Laye, the whole domain of Canada or New France was restored to +the French. Had the treaty of St. Germain en Laye, by which Quebec was +restored to the French, fixed accurately the boundary lines between the two +countries, it would probably have saved the expenditure of money and blood, +which continued to be demanded from time to time until, after a century and +a quarter, the whole of the French possessions were transferred, under the +arbitration of war, to the English crown. + +ENDNOTES: + +95. The association was a joint-stock company Each corporator was bound to + pay in three thousand livres, and as there were over a hundred, the + quick capital amounted to over 300,000 livres--_Vide Mercure François_, + Paris, 1628, Tome XIV. p 250. For a full statement of the organization + and constitution of the Company of New France, _Vide Mercure Francois_, + Tome XIV pp 232-267 _Vide_ also _Charlevoix's Hist. New France_, Shea's + Trans Vol. II. pp. 39-44. + +96. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince Society, + Boston, 1873. + +97. _Vide Colonial Papers_, Vol. V. 87, III. We do not find the mention of + any others as belonging to the Company of Merchant Adventurers to + Canada. + +98. Sir David Kirke was one of five brothers, the sons of Gervase or + Gervais Kirke, a merchant of London, and his wife, Elizabeth Goudon of + Dieppe in France. The grandfather of Sir David was Thurston Kirke of + Norton, a small town in the northern part of the county of Derby, known + as the birthplace of the sculptor Chantrey. This little hamlet had been + the home of the Kirkes for several generations. Gervase Kirke had, in + 1629, resided in Dieppe for the most of the forty years preceding, and + his children were probably born there. Sir David Kirke was married to + Sarah, daughter of Sir Joseph Andrews. In early life he was a wine- + merchant at Bordeaux and Cognac. He was knighted by Charles I in 1633, + in recognition of his services in taking Quebec. On the 13th of + November, 1637, he received a grant of "the whole continent, island, or + region called Newfoundland." In 1638, he took up his residence at + Ferryland, Newfoundland, in the house built by Lord Baltimore. He was a + friend and correspondent of Archbishop Laud, to whom he wrote, in 1639, + "That the ayre of Newfoundland agrees perfectly well with all God's + creatures, except Jesuits and schismatics." He remained in Newfoundland + nearly twenty years, where he died in 1655-56, having experienced many + disappointments occasioned by his loyalty to Charles I.--_Vide Colonial + Papers_, Vol. IX. No. 76; _The First English Conquest of Canada_, by + Henry Kirke, London, 1871, _passim; Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, + Paris ed. 1632, p. 257. + +99. Champlain criticises with merited severity the conduct of De Roquemont, + and closes in the following words "Le merite d'un bon Capitaine n'est + pas seulement au courage, mais il doit estre accompagné de prudence, + qui est ce qui les fait estimer, comme estant suiuy de ruses, + stratagesmes, & d'inventions plusieurs auec peu ont beaucoup fait, & se + sont rendus glorieux & redoutables"--_Vide Les Voyages du Sieur de + Champlain_, ed 1632, part II p. 166. + +100. On the 13th of March, 1629, letters of marque were issued to Capt. + David Kirke, Thomas Kirke, and others, in favor of the "Abigail," 300 + tons, the "William," 200 tons, the "George" of London, and the + "Jarvis." + +101. This correspondence is preserved by Champlain.--_Vide Les Voyages par + le Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, pp. 215-219. + +102. _Vide Abstract of the Deposition of Capt. David Kirke and others_. + Calendar of State Papers, Colonial, 1574-1660, p. 103. + +103. _Couillard_ Champlain writes _Coulart_ This appears to have been + William Couillard, the son in-law of Madame Hébert and one of the five + families which remained at Quebec after it was taken by the + English--_Vide Laverdière's note, Oeuvres de Champlain_, Quebec ed + Vol. VI p. 249. + +104. An English translation of this charter from the Latin original was + published by the Prince Society in 1873 _Vide Sir William Alexander + and American Colonization_, Prince Society, Boston, pp. 239-249. + +105. Champlain published, in 1632, a brief argument setting forth the + claims of the French, which he entitles. _Abregé des Descouuertures de + la Nouuelle France, tant de ce que nous auons descouuert comme aussi + les Anglais, depuis les Virgines iusqu'au Freton Dauis, & de cequ'eux + & nous pouuons pretendre suiuant le rapport des Historiens qui en ont + descrit, que ie rapporte cy dessous, qui feront iuger à un chacun du + tout sans passion.--Vide_ ed. 1632, p. 290. In this paper he narrates + succinctly the early discoveries made both by the French and English + navigators, and enforces the doctrine of the superior claims of the + French with clearness and strength. It contains, probably, the + substance of what Champlain placed at this time in the hands of the + French embassador in London. + +106. It is difficult to conceive on what ground this ransom was demanded + since the whole proceedings of the English against Quebec were + illegal, and contrary to the articles of peace which had just been + concluded. That such a demand was made would be regarded as + incredible, did not the fact rest upon documentary evidence of + undoubted authority.--_Vide Laverdière's_ citation from State Papers + Office, Vol. V. No. 33. Oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed, Vol. VI. p + 1413. + +107. _Vide Relation du Voyage fait par le Capitaine Daniel de Dieppe, année + 1629, Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain_, Paris, 1632, p. 271. Captain + Daniel was enrolled by Creuxius in the Society of New France or the + Hundred Associates, as _Carolus Daniel, nauticus Capitaneus_. _Vide + Historia Canadensis_ for the names of the Society of the Hundred + Associates. + +108. _Cibou_. Sometimes written Chibou. "Cibou means," says Mr. J. Hammond + Trumball, "simply river in all eastern Algonkin languages."--_MS. + letter_. Nicholas Denys, in his very full itinerary of the coast of + the island of Cape Breton speaks also of the _entree du petit Chibou + ou de Labrador_. This _petit Chibou_, according to his description, is + identical with what is now known as the Little Bras d'Or, or smaller + passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It seems probable that the great Cibou of + the Indians was applied originally by them to what we now call the + Great Bras d'Or, or larger passage to Bras d'Or Lake. It is plain, + however, that Captain Daniel and other early writers applied it to an + estuary or bay a little further west than the Great Bras d'Or, + separated from it by Cape Dauphin, and now known as St. Anne's Bay. It + took the name of St. Anne's immediately on the planting of Captain + Daniel's colony, as Champlain calls it, _l'habitation saincte Anne en + l'ile du Cap Breton_ in his relation of what took place in + 1631.--_Voyages_, ed. 1632, p. 298. A very good description of it by + Père Perrault may be found in _Jesuit Relations_, 1635, Quebec ed p. + 42.--_Vide_, also, _Description de l'Amerique Septentrionale par + Monsieur Denys_, Paris, 1672, p. 155, where is given an elaborate + description of St Anne's Harbor. _Gransibou_ may be seen on + Champlain's map of 1632, but the map is too indefinite to aid us in + fixing its exact location. + +109. _Vide Sir William Alexander and American Colonization_, Prince + Society, 1873, pp. 66-72.--_Royal Letters, Charters, and Tracts + relating to the Colonisation of New Scotland_, Bannatyne Club, + Edinburgh, 1867, p. 77 _et passim_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ÉMERIC DE CAEN TAKES POSSESSION OF QUEBEC.--CHAMPLAIN PUBLISHES HIS +VOYAGES.--RETURNS TO NEW FRANCE, REPAIRS THE HABITATION, AND ERECTS A +CHAPEL.--HIS LETTER TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU.--CHAMPLAIN'S DEATH. + +In breaking up the settlement at Quebec, the losses of the De Caens were +considerable, and it was deemed an act of justice to allow them an +opportunity to retrieve them, at least in part; and, to enable them to do +this, the monopoly of the fur-trade in the Gulf of St. Lawrence was granted +to them for one year, and, on the retirement of the English, Émeric de +Caen, as provisional governor for that period, took formal possession of +Quebec on the 13th of July, 1632. In the mean time, Champlain remained in +France, devoting himself with characteristic energy to the interests of New +France. Beside the valuable counsel and aid which he gave regarding the +expedition then fitting out and to be sent to Quebec by the Company of New +France, he prepared and carried through the press an edition of his +Voyages, comprising extended extracts from what he had already published, +and a continuation of the narrative to 1631. He also published in the same +volume a Treatise on Navigation, and a Catechism translated from the French +by one of the Fathers into the language of the Montagnais. [110] + +On the 23d of March, 1633, having again been commissioned as governor, +Champlain sailed from Dieppe with a fleet of three vessels, the "Saint +Pierre," the "Saint Jean," and the "Don de Dieu," belonging to the Company +of New France, conveying to Quebec a large number of colonists, together +with the Jesuit fathers, Enemond Massé and Jean de Brébeuf. The three +vessels entered the harbor of Quebec on the 23d of May. On the announcement +of Champlain's arrival, the little colony was all astir. The cannon at the +Fort St. Louis boomed forth their hoarse welcome of his coming. The hearts +of all, particularly of those who had remained at Quebec during the +occupation of the English, were overflowing with joy. The three years' +absence of their now venerable and venerated governor, and the trials, +hardships, and discouragements through which they had in the mean time +passed, had not effaced from their minds the virtues that endeared him to +their hearts. The memory of his tender solicitude in their behalf, his +brave example of endurance in the hour of want and peril, and the sweetness +of his parting counsels, came back afresh to awaken in them new pulsations +of gratitude. Champlain's heart was touched by his warm reception and the +visible proofs of their love and devotion. This was a bright and happy day +in the calendar of the little colony. + +Champlain addressed himself with his old zeal and a renewed strength to +every interest that promised immediate or future good results. He at once +directed the renovation and improvement of the habitation and fort, which, +after an occupation of three years by aliens, could not be delayed. He then +instituted means, holding councils and creating a new trading-post, for +winning back the traffic of the allied tribes, which had been of late drawn +away by the English, who continued to steal into the waters of the St. +Lawrence for that purpose. At an early day after his re-establishment of +himself at Quebec, Champlain proceeded to build a memorial chapel in close +proximity to the fort which he had erected some years before on the crest +of the rocky eminence that overlooks the harbor. He gave it the appropriate +and significant name, NOTRE DAME DE RECOUVRANCE, in grateful memory of the +recent return of the French to New France. [111] It had long been an ardent +desire of Champlain to establish a French settlement among the Hurons, and +to plant a mission there for the conversion of this favorite tribe to the +Christian faith. Two missionaries, De Brébeuf and De Nouë, were now ready +for the undertaking. The governor spared no pains to secure for them a +favorable reception, and vigorously urged the importance of their mission +upon the Hurons assembled at Quebec. [112] But at the last, when on the eve +of securing his purpose, complications arose and so much hostility was +displayed by one of the chiefs, that he thought it prudent to advise its +postponement to a more auspicious moment. With these and kindred +occupations growing out of the responsibilities of his charge, two years +soon passed away. + +During the summer of 1635, Champlain addressed an interesting and important +letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, whose authority at that time shaped both +the domestic and foreign policy of France. In it the condition and +imperative wants of New France are clearly set forth. This document was +probably the last that Champlain ever penned, and is, perhaps, the only +autograph letter of his now extant. His views of the richness and possible +resources of the country, the vast missionary field which it offered, and +the policy to be pursued, are so clearly stated that we need offer no +apology for giving the following free translation of the letter in these +pages. [113] + +LETTER OF CHAMPLAIN TO CARDINAL DE RICHELIEU. + +MONSEIGNEUR,--The honor of the commands that I have received from your +Eminence has inspired me with greater courage to render to you every +possible service with all the fidelity and affection that can be desired +from a faithful servant. I shall spare neither my blood nor my life +whenever the occasion shall demand them. + +There are subjects enough in these regions, if your Eminence, after +considering the character of the country, shall desire to extend your +authority over them. This territory is more than fifteen hundred leagues in +length, lying between the same parallels of latitude as our own France. It +is watered by one of the finest rivers in the world, into which empty many +tributaries more than four hundred leagues in length, beautifying a country +inhabited by a vast number of tribes. Some of them are sedentary in their +mode of life, possessing, like the Muscovites, towns and villages built of +wood; others are nomadic, hunters and fishermen, all longing to welcome the +French and religious fathers, that they may be instructed in our faith. + +The excellence of this country cannot be too highly estimated or praised, +both as to the richness of the soil, the diversity of the timber such as we +have in France, the abundance of wild animals, game, and fish, which are of +extraordinary magnitude. All this invites you, Monseigneur, and makes it +seem as if God had created you above all your predecessors to do a work +here more pleasing to Him than any that has yet been accomplished. + +For thirty years I have frequented this country, and have acquired a +thorough knowledge of it, obtained from my own observation and the +information given me by the native inhabitants. Monseigneur, I pray you to +pardon my zeal, if I say that, after your renown has spread throughout the +East, you should end by compelling its recognition in the West. + +Expelling the English from Quebec has been a very important beginning, but, +nevertheless, since the treaty of peace between the two crowns, they have +returned to carry on trade and annoy us in this river; declaring that it +was enjoined upon them to withdraw, but not to remain away, and that they +have their king's permission to come for the period of thirty years. But, +if your Eminence wills, you can make them feel the power of your authority. +This can, furthermore, be extended at your pleasure to him who has come +here to bring about a general peace among these peoples, who are at war +with a nation holding more than four hundred leagues in subjection, and who +prevent the free use of the rivers and highways. If this peace were made, +we should be in complete and easy enjoyment of our possessions. Once +established in the country, we could expel our enemies, both English and +Flemings, forcing them to withdraw to the coast, and, by depriving them of +trade with the Iroquois, oblige them to abandon the country entirely. It +requires but one hundred and twenty men, light-armed for avoiding arrows, +by whose aid, together with two or three thousand savage warriors, our +allies, we should be, within a year, absolute masters of all these peoples, +and, by establishing order among them, promote religious worship and secure +an incredible amount of traffic. + +The country is rich in mines of copper, iron, steel, brass, silver, and +other minerals which may be found here. + +The cost, Monseigneur, of one hundred and twenty men is a trifling one to +his Majesty, the enterprise the most noble that can be imagined. + +All for the glory of God, whom I pray with my whole heart to grant you +ever-increasing prosperity, and to make me, all my life, Monseigneur, + + Your most humble, + Most faithful, + and Most obedient servant, + CHAMPLAIN. + +AT QUEBEC, IN NEW FRANCE, the 15th of August, 1635. + +In this letter will be found the key to Champlain's war-policy with the +Iroquois, no where else so fully unfolded. We shall refer to this subject +in the sequel. + +Early in October, when the harvest of the year had ripened and been +gathered in, and the leaves had faded and fallen, and the earth was mantled +in the symbols of general decay, in sympathy with all that surrounded him, +in his chamber in the little fort on the crest of the rocky promontory at +Quebec, lay the manly form of Champlain, smitten with disease, which was +daily breaking down the vigor and strength of his iron constitution. From +loving friends he received the ministrations of tender and assiduous care. +But his earthly career was near its end. The bowl had been broken at the +fountain. Life went on ebbing away from week to week. At the end of two +months and a half, on Christmas day, the 25th of December, 1635, his spirit +passed to its final rest. + +This otherwise joyous festival was thus clouded with a deep sorrow. No +heart in the little colony was untouched by this event. All had been drawn +to Champlain, so many years their chief magistrate and wise counsellor, by +a spontaneous and irresistible respect, veneration, and love. It was meet, +as it was the universal desire, to crown him, in his burial, with every +honor which, in their circumstances, they could bestow. The whole +population joined in a mournful procession. His spiritual adviser and +friend, Father Charles Lalemant, performed in his behalf the last solemn +service of the church. Father Paul Le Jeune pronounced a funeral discourse, +reciting his virtues, his fidelity to the king and the Company of New +France, his extraordinary love and devotion to the families of the colony, +and his last counsels for their continued happiness and welfare. [114] + +When these ceremonies were over his body was piously and tenderly laid to +rest, and soon after a tomb was constructed for its reception expressly in +his honor as the benefactor of New France. [115] The place of his burial +[116] was within the little chapel subsequently erected, and which was +reverently called _La Chapelle de M. de Chiamplain_, in grateful memory of +him whose body reposed beneath its sheltering walls. + +ENDNOTES: + +110. This catechism, bearing the following title, is contained on fifteen + pages in the ed. of 1632: _Doctrine Chrestienne, du R. P. Ledesme de + la Compagnie de Jesus. Traduîte en Langage Canadois, autre que celuy + des Montagnars, pour la Conversion des habitans dudit pays. Par le R. + P. Breboeuf de la mesme Compagnie_. It is in double columns, one side + Indian and the other French. + +111. The following extracts will show that the chapel was erected in 1633, + that it was built by Champlain, and that it was called Notre Dame de + Recouvrance. + + Nous les menasmes en nostre petite chapelle, qui a commencé ceste + année à l'embellir.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_. Québec ed. 1633, + p. 30. + + La sage conduitte et la prudence de Monsieur de Champlain Gouuerneur + de Kebec et du fleuve sainct Laurens, qui nous honore de sa bien- + veillance, retenant vn chacun dans son devoir, a fait que nos paroles + et nos prédications ayent esté bien receuens, et la Chapelle qu'il a + fait dresser proche du fort a l'honneur de nostre Dame, &c.--_Idem_, + 1634, p. 2. + + La troisiéme, que nous allons habiter cette Autome, la Residence de + Nostre-dame de Recouvrance, à Kebec proche du Fort.--_Idem_, 1635, p. + 3. + +112. According to Père Le Jeune, from five to seven hundred Hurons had + assembled at Quebec in July, 1633, bringing their canoes loaded with + merchandise.--_Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1633, p. 34. + +113. This letter was printed in oeuvres de Champlain, Quebec ed. Vol. VI. + _Pièces Justificatives_, p 35. The original is at Paris, in the + Archives of Foreign Affairs. + +114. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1636, p. 56. _Creuxius, + Historia Canadensis_, pp. 183-4. + +115. Monsieur le Gouverneur, qui estimoit sa vertu, desira qu'il fust + enterré prés du corps de feu Monsieur de Champlain, qui est dans vn + sepulchre particulier, erigé exprés pour honorer la memoire de ce + signalé personnage qui a tant obligé la Nouuelle France.--_Vide + Relations des Jésuites_, Quebec ed. 1643, p. 3. + +116. The exact spot where Champlain was buried is at this time unknown. + Historians and antiquaries have been much interested in its discovery. + In 1866, the Abbés Laverdière and Casgrain were encouraged to believe + that their searches had been crowned with success. They published a + statement of their discovery. Their views were controverted in several + critical pamphlets that followed. In the mean time, additional + researches have been made. The theory then broached that his burial + was in the Lower Town, and in the Recollect chapel built in 1615, has + been abandoned. The Abbé Casgrain, in an able discussion of this + subject, in which he cites documents hitherto unpublished, shows that + Champlain was buried in a tomb within the walls of a chapel erected by + his successor in the Upper Town, and that this chapel was situated + somewhere within the court-yard of the present post-office. Père Le + Jeune, who records the death of Champlain in his Relation of 1636, + does not mention the place of his burial; but the Père Vimont, in his + Relation of 1643, in speaking of the burial of Père Charles Raymbault, + says, the "Governor desired that he should be buried near the _body of + the late Monsieur de Champlain_, which is in a particular tomb erected + expressly to honor the memory of that distinguished personage, who had + placed New France under such great obligation." In the Parish Register + of Notre Dame de Quebec, is the following entry: "The 22d of October + (1642), was interred _in the Chapel of M. De Champlain_ the Père + Charles Rimbault." It is plain, therefore, that Champlain was buried + in what was then commonly known as _the Chapel of M. de Champlain_. By + reference to ancient documents or deeds (one bearing date Feb. 10, + 1649, and another 22d April, 1652, and in one of which the Chapel of + Champlain is mentioned as contiguous to a piece of land therein + described), the Abbé Casgrain proves that the _Chapel of M. de + Champlain_ was within the square where is situated the present + post-office at Quebec, and, as the tomb of Champlain was within the + chapel, it follows that Champlain was buried somewhere within the + post-office square above mentioned. + + Excavations in this square have been made, but no traces of the walls + or foundations of the chapel have been found. In the excavations for + cellars of the houses constructed along the square, the foundations of + the chapel may have been removed. It is possible that when the chapel + was destroyed, which was at a very early period, as no reference to + its existence is found subsequent to 1649, the body of Champlain and + the others buried there may have been removed, and no record made of + the removal. The Abbé Casgrain expresses the hope that other + discoveries may hereafter be made that shall place this interesting + question beyond all doubt.--_Vide Documents Inédits Relatifs au + Tombeau de Champlain_, par l'Abbé H. R. Casgrain, _L'Opinion + Publique_, Montreal, 4 Nov. 1875. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CHAMPLAIN'S RELIGION.--HIS WAR POLICY.--HIS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL LIFE.-- +CHAMPLAIN AS AN EXPLORER.--HIS LITERARY LABORS.--THE RESULTS OF HIS CAREER. + +As Champlain had lived, so he died, a firm and consistent member of the +Roman church. In harmony with his general character, his religious views +were always moderate, never betraying him into excesses, or into any merely +partisan zeal. Born during the profligate, cruel, and perfidious reign of +Charles IX., he was, perhaps, too young to be greatly affected by the evils +characteristic of that period, the massacre of St. Bartholomew's and the +numberless vices that swept along in its train. His youth and early +manhood, covering the plastic and formative period, stretched through the +reign of Henry III., in which the standards of virtue and religion were +little if in any degree improved. Early in the reign of Henry IV., when he +had fairly entered upon his manhood, we find him closely associated with +the moderate party, which encouraged and sustained the broad, generous, and +catholic principles of that distinguished sovereign. + +When Champlain became lieutenant-governor of New France, his attention was +naturally turned to the religious wants of his distant domain. Proceeding +cautiously, after patient and prolonged inquiry, he selected missionaries +who were earnest, zealous, and fully consecrated to their work. And all +whom he subsequently invited into the field were men of character and +learning, whose brave endurance of hardship, and manly courage amid +numberless perils, shed glory and lustre upon their holy calling. + +Champlain's sympathies were always with his missionaries in their pious +labors. Whether the enterprise were the establishment of a mission among +the distant Hurons, among the Algonquins on the upper St. Lawrence, or for +the enlargement of their accommodations at Quebec, the printing of a +catechism in the language of the aborigines, or if the foundations of a +college were to be laid for the education of the savages, his heart and +hand were ready for the work. + +On the establishment of the Company of New France, or the Hundred +Associates, Protestants were entirely excluded. By its constitution no +Huguenots were allowed to settle within the domain of the company. If this +rule was not suggested by Champlain, it undoubtedly existed by his decided +and hearty concurrence. The mingling of Catholics and Huguenots in the +early history of the colony had brought with it numberless annoyances. By +sifting the wheat before it was sown, it was hoped to get rid of an +otherwise inevitable cause of irritation and trouble. The correctness of +the principle of Christian toleration was not admitted by the Roman church +then any more than it is now. Nor did the Protestants of that period +believe in it, or practise it, whenever they possessed the power to do +otherwise. Even the Puritans of Massachusetts Bay held that their charter +conferred upon them the right and power of exclusion. It was not easy, it +is true, to carry out this view by square legal enactment without coming +into conflict with the laws of England; but they were adroit and skilful, +endowed with a marvellous talent for finding some indirect method of laying +a heavy hand upon Friend or Churchman, or the more independent thinkers +among their own numbers, who desired to make their abode within the +precincts of the bay. In the earlier years of the colony at Quebec, when +Protestant and Catholic were there on equal terms, Champlain's religious +associations led him to swerve neither to the right hand nor to the left. +His administration was characterized by justice, firmness, and gentleness, +and was deservedly satisfactory to all parties. + +In his later years, the little colony upon whose welfare and Christian +culture he had bestowed so much cheerful labor and anxious thought, became +every day more and more dear to his heart. Within the ample folds of his +charity were likewise encircled the numerous tribes of savages, spread over +the vast domains of New France. He earnestly desired that all of them, far +and near, friend and foe, might be instructed in the doctrines of the +Christian faith, and brought into willing and loving obedience to the +cross. + +In its personal application to his own heart, the religion of Champlain was +distinguished by a natural and gradual progress. His warmth, tenderness, +and zeal grew deeper and stronger with advancing years. In his religious +life there was a clearly marked seed-time, growth, and ripening for the +harvest. After his return to Quebec, during the last three years of his +life, his time was especially systematized and appropriated for +intellectual and spiritual improvement. Some portion was given every +morning by himself and those who constituted his family to a course of +historical reading, and in the evening to the memoirs of the saintly dead +whose lives he regarded as suitable for the imitation of the living, and +each night for himself he devoted more or less time to private meditation +and prayer. + +Such were the devout habits of Champlain's life in his later years. We are +not, therefore, surprised that the historian of Canada, twenty-five years +after his death, should place upon record the following concise but +comprehensive eulogy:-- + +"His surpassing love of justice, piety, fidelity to God, his king, and the +Society of New France, had always been conspicuous. But in his death he +gave such illustrious proofs of his goodness as to fill every one with +admiration." [117] + +The reader of these memoirs has doubtless observed with surprise and +perhaps with disappointment, the readiness with which Champlain took part +in the wars of the savages. On his first visit to the valley of the St +Lawrence, he found the Indians dwelling on the northern shores of the river +and the lakes engaged in a deadly warfare with those on the southern, the +Iroquois tribes occupying the northern limits of the present State of New +York, generally known as the Five Nations. The hostile relations between +these savages were not of recent date. They reached back to a very early +but indefinite period. They may have existed for several centuries. When +Champlain planted his colony at Quebec, in 1608, he at once entered into +friendly relations with all the tribes which were his immediate neighbors. +This was eminently a suitable thing to do, and was, moreover, necessary for +his safety and protection. + +But a permanent and effective alliance with these tribes carried with it of +necessity a solemn assurance of aid against their enemies. This Champlain +promptly promised without hesitation, and the next year he fulfilled his +promise by leading them to battle on the shores of Lake Champlain. At all +subsequent periods he regarded himself as committed to aid his allies in +their hostile expeditions against the Iroquois. In his printed journal, he +offers no apology for his conduct in this respect, nor does he intimate +that his views could be questioned either in morals or sound policy. He +rarely assigns any reason whatever for engaging in these wars. In one or +two instances he states that it seemed to him necessary to do so in order +to facilitate the discoveries which he wished to make, and that he hoped it +might in the end be the means of leading the savages to embrace +Christianity. But he nowhere enters upon a full discussion of this point. +It is enough to say, in explanation of this silence, that a private journal +like that published by Champlain, was not the place in which to foreshadow +a policy, especially as it might in the future be subject to change, and +its success might depend upon its being known only to those who had the +power to shape and direct it. But nevertheless the silence of Champlain has +doubtless led some historians to infer that he had no good reasons to give, +and unfavorable criticisms have been bestowed upon his conduct by those, +who did not understand the circumstances which influenced him, or the +motives which controlled his action. + +The war-policy of Champlain was undoubtedly very plainly set forth in his +correspondence and interviews with the viceroys and several companies under +whose authority he acted. But these discussions, whether oral or written, +do not appear in general to have been preserved. Fortunately a single +document of this character is still extant, in which his views are clearly +unfolded. In Champlain's remarkable letter to Cardinal de Richelieu, which +we have introduced a few pages back, his policy is fully stated. It is +undoubtedly the same that he had acted upon from the beginning, and +explains the frankness and readiness with which, first and last, as a +faithful ally, he had professed himself willing to aid the friendly tribes +in their wars against the Iroquois. The object which he wished to +accomplish by this tribal war was, as fully stated in the letter to which +we have referred, first, to conquer the Iroquois or Five Nations; to +introduce peaceful relations between them and the other surrounding tribes; +and, secondly, to establish a grand alliance of all the savage tribes, far +and near, with the French. This could only be done in the order here +stated. No peace could be secured from the Iroquois, except by their +conquest, the utter breaking down of their power. They were not susceptible +to the influence of reason. They were implacable, and had been brutalized +by long-inherited habits of cruelty. In the total annihilation of their +power was the only hope of peace. This being accomplished, the surviving +remnant would, according to the usual custom among the Indians, readily +amalgamate with the victorious tribes, and then a general alliance with the +French could be easily secured. This was what Champlain wished to +accomplish. The pacification of all the tribes occupying both sides of the +St. Lawrence and the chain of northern lakes would place the whole domain +of the American continent, or as much of it as it would be desirable to +hold, under the easy and absolute control of the French nation. + +Such a pacification as this would secure two objects; objects eminently +important, appealing strongly to all who desired the aggrandizement of +France and the progress and supremacy of the Catholic faith. It would +secure for ever to the French the fur-trade of the Indians, a commerce then +important and capable of vast expansion. The chief strength and resources +of the savages allied with the French, the Montagnais, Algonquins, and +Hurons, were at that period expended in their wars. On the cessation of +hostilities, their whole force would naturally and inevitably be given to +the chase. A grand field lay open to them for this exciting occupation. The +fur-bearing country embraced not only the region of the St. Lawrence and +the lakes, but the vast and unlimited expanse of territory stretching out +indefinitely in every direction. The whole northern half of the continent +of North America, filled with the most valuable fur-producing mammalia, +would be open to the enterprise of the French, and could not fail to pour +into their treasury an incredible amount of wealth. This Champlain was +far-sighted enough to see, and his patriotic zeal lead him to desire that +France should avail herself of this opportunity. [118] + +But the conquest of the Iroquois would not only open to France the prospect +of exhaustless wealth, but it would render accessible a broad, extensive, +and inviting field of missionary labor. It would remove all external and +physical obstacles to the speedy transmission and offer of the Christian +faith to the numberless tribes that would thus be brought within their +reach. + +The desire to bring about these two great ulterior purposes, the +augmentation of the commerce of France in the full development of the +fur-trade, and the gathering into the Catholic church the savage tribes of +the wilderness, explains the readiness with which, from the beginning, +Champlain encouraged his Indian allies and took part with them in their +wars against the Five Nations. In the very last year of his life, he +demanded of Richelieu the requisite military force to carry on this war, +reminding him that the cost would be trifling to his Majesty, while the +enterprise would be the most noble that could be imagined. + +In regard to the domestic and social life of Champlain, scarcely any +documents remain that can throw light upon the subject. Of his parents we +have little information beyond that of their respectable calling and +standing. He was probably an only child, as no others are on any occasion +mentioned or referred to. He married, as we have seen, the daughter of the +Secretary of the King's Chamber, and his wife, Hélène Boullé, accompanied +him to Canada in 1620, where she remained four years. They do not appear to +have had children, as the names of none are found in the records at Quebec, +and, at his death, the only claimant as an heir, was a cousin, Marie +Cameret, who, in 1639, resided at Rochelle, and whose husband was Jacques +Hersant, controller of duties and imposts. After Champlain's decease, his +wife, Hélène Boullé, became a novice in an Ursuline convent in the faubourg +of St. Jacques in Paris. Subsequently, in 1648, she founded a religious +house of the same order in the city of Meaux, contributing for the purpose +the sum of twenty thousand livres and some part of the furnishing. She +entered the house that she had founded, as a nun, under the name of Sister +_Hélène de St. Augustin_, where, as the foundress, certain privileges were +granted to her, such as a superior quality of food for herself, exemption +from attendance upon some of the longer services, the reception into the +convent, on her recommendation, of a young maiden to be a nun of the choir, +with such pecuniary assistance as she might need, and the letters of her +brother, the Father Eustache Boullé, were to be exempted from the usual +inspection. She died at Meaux, on the 20th day of December, 1654, in the +convent which she had founded. [119] + +As an explorer, Champlain was unsurpassed by any who visited the northern +coasts of America anterior to its permanent settlement He was by nature +endowed with a love of useful adventure, and for the discovery of new +countries he had an insatiable thirst. It began with him as a child, and +was fresh and irrepressible in his latest years. Among the arts, he +assigned to navigation the highest importance. His broad appreciation of it +and his strong attachment to it, are finely stated in his own compact and +comprehensive description. + +"Of all the most useful and excellent arts, that of navigation has always +seemed to me to occupy the first place. For the more hazardous it is, and +the more numerous the perils and losses by which it is attended, so much +the more is it esteemed and exalted above all others, being wholly unsuited +to the timid and irresolute. By this art we obtain a knowledge of different +countries, regions, and realms. By it we attract and bring to our own land +all kinds of riches; by it the idolatry of paganism is overthrown and +Christianity proclaimed throughout all the regions of the earth. This is +the art which won my love in my early years, and induced me to expose +myself almost all my life to the impetuous waves of the ocean, and led me +to explore the coasts of a part of America, especially those of New France, +where I have always desired to see the Lily flourish, together with the +only religion, catholic, apostolic, and Roman." + +In addition to his natural love for discovery, Champlain had a combination +of other qualities which rendered his explorations pre-eminently valuable. +His interest did not vanish with seeing what was new. It was by no means a +mere fancy for simple sight-seeing. Restlessness and volatility did not +belong to his temperament. His investigations were never made as an end, +but always as a means. His undertakings in this direction were for the most +part shaped and colored by his Christian principle and his patriotic love +of France. Sometimes one and sometimes the other was more prominent. + +His voyage to the West Indies was undertaken under a twofold impulse. It +gratified his love of exploration and brought back rare and valuable +information to France. Spain at that time did not open her island-ports to +the commerce of the world. She was drawing from them vast revenues in +pearls and the precious metals. It was her policy to keep this whole +domain, this rich archipelago, hermetically sealed, and any foreign vessel +approached at the risk of capture and confiscation. Champlain could not, +therefore, explore this region under a commission from France. He +accordingly sought and obtained permission to visit these Spanish +possessions under the authority of Spain herself. He entered and personally +examined all the important ports that surround and encircle the Caribbean +Sea, from the pearl-bearing Margarita on the south, Deseada on the east, to +Cuba on the west, together with the city of Mexico, and the Isthmus of +Panama on the mainland. As the fruit of these journeyings, he brought back +a report minute in description, rich in details, and luminous with +illustrations. This little brochure, from the circumstances attendant upon +its origin, is unsurpassed in historical importance by any similar or +competing document of that period. It must always remain of the highest +value as a trustworthy, original authority, without which it is probable +that the history of those islands, for that period, could not be accurately +and truthfully written. + +Champlain was a pioneer in the exploration of the Atlantic coast of New +England and the eastern provinces of Canada, From the Strait of Canseau, at +the northeastern extremity of Nova Scotia, to the Vineyard Sound, on the +southern limits of Massachusetts, he made a thorough survey of the coast in +1605 and 1606, personally examining its most important harbors, bays, and +rivers, mounting its headlands, penetrating its forests, carefully +observing and elaborately describing its soil, its products, and its native +inhabitants. Besides lucid and definite descriptions of the coast, he +executed topographical drawings of numerous points of interest along our +shores, as Plymouth harbor, Nauset Bay, Stage Harbor at Chatham, Gloucester +Bay, the Bay of Baco, with the long stretch of Old Orchard Beach and its +interspersed islands, the mouth of the Kennebec, and as many more on the +coast of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. To these he added descriptions, +more or less definite, of the harbors of Barnstable, Wellfleet, Boston, of +the headland of Cape Anne, Merrimac Bay, the Isles of Shoals, Cape +Porpoise, Richmond's Island, Mount Desert, Isle Haute, Seguin, and the +numberless other islands that adorn the exquisite sea-coast of Maine, as +jewels that add a new lustre to the beauty of a peerless goddess. + +Other navigators had coasted along our shores. Some of them had touched at +single points, of which they made meagre and unsatisfactory surveys. +Gosnold had, in 1602, discovered Savage Rock, but it was so indefinitely +located and described that it cannot even at this day be identified. +Resolving to make a settlement on one of the barren islands forming the +group named in honor of Queen Elizabeth and still bearing her name; after +some weeks spent in erecting a storehouse, and in collecting a cargo of +"furrs, skyns, saxafras, and other commodities," the project of a +settlement was abandoned and he returned to England, leaving, however, two +permanent memorials of his voyage, in the names which he gave respectively +to Martha's Vineyard and to the headland of Cape Cod. + +Captain Martin Pring came to our shores in 1603, in search of a cargo of +sassafras. There are indications that he entered the Penobscot. He +afterward paid his respects to Savage Rock, the undefined _bonanza_ of his +predecessor. He soon found his desired cargo on the Vineyard Islands, and +hastily returned to England. + +Captain George Weymouth, in 1605, was on the coast of Maine concurrently, +or nearly so, with Champlain, where he passed a month, explored a river, +set up a cross, and took possession of the country in the name of the king. +But where these transactions took place is still in dispute, so +indefinitely does his journalist describe them. + +Captain John Smith, eight years later than Champlain, surveyed the coast of +New England while his men were collecting a cargo of furs and fish. He +wrote a description of it from memory, part or all of it while a prisoner +on board a French ship of war off Fayall, and executed a map, both +valuable, but nevertheless exceedingly indefinite and general in their +character. + +These flying visits to our shores were not unimportant, and must not be +undervalued. They were necessary steps in the progress of the grand +historical events that followed. But they were meagre and hasty and +superficial, when compared to the careful, deliberate, extensive, and +thorough, not to say exhaustive, explorations made by Champlain. + +In the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Cartier had preceded Champlain by a period of +more than sixty years. During this long, dreary half-century the stillness +of the primeval forest had not been disturbed by the woodman's axe. When +Champlain's eyes fell upon it, it was still the same wild, unfrequented, +unredeemed region that it had been to its first discoverer. The rivers, +bays, and islands described by Cartier were identified by Champlain, and +the names they had already received were permanently fixed by his added +authority. The whole gulf and river were re-examined and described anew in +his journal. The exploration of the Richelieu and of Lake Champlain was +pushed into the interior three hundred miles from his base at Quebec. It +reached into a wilderness and along gentle waters never before seen by any +civilized race. It was at once fascinating and hazardous, environed as it +was by vigilant and ferocious savages, who guarded its gates with the +sleepless watchfulness of the fabled Cerberus. + +The courage, endurance, and heroism of Champlain were tested in the still +greater-exploration of 1615. It extended from Montreal, the whole length of +the Ottawa, to Lake Nipissing, the Georgian Bay, Simcoe, the system of +small lakes on the south, across the Ontario, and finally ending in the +interior of the State of New York, a journey through tangled forests and +broken water-courses of more than a thousand miles, occupying nearly a +year, executed in the face of physical suffering and hardship before which +a nature less intrepid and determined, less loyal to his great purpose, +less generous and unselfish, would have yielded at the outset. These +journeys into the interior, along the courses of navigable rivers and +lakes, and through the primitive forests, laid open to the knowledge of the +French a domain vast and indefinite in extent, on which an empire broader +and far richer in resources than the old Gallic France might have been +successfully reared. + +The personal explorations of Champlain in the West Indies, on the Atlantic +coast, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the State of New York and of +Vermont, and among the lakes in Canada and those that divide the Dominion +from the United States, including the full, explicit, and detailed journals +which he wrote concerning them, place Champlain undeniably not merely in +the front rank, but at the head of the long list of explorers and +navigators, who early visited this part of the continent of North America. + +Champlain's literary labors are interesting and important. They were not +professional, but incidental, and the natural outgrowth of the career to +which he devoted his life He had the sagacity to see that the fields which +he entered as an explorer were new and important, that the aspect of every +thing which he then saw would, under the influence and progress of +civilization, soon be changed, and that it was historically important that +a portrait Sketched by an eyewitness should be handed down to other +generations. It was likewise necessary for the immediate and successful +planting of colonies, that those who engaged in the undertaking should have +before them full information of all the conditions on which they were to +build their hopes of final success. + +Inspired by such motives as these, Champlain wrote out an accurate journal +of the events that transpired about him, of what he personally saw, and of +the observations of others, authenticated by the best tests which, under +the circumstances, he was able to apply. His natural endowments for this +work were of the highest order. As an observer he was sagacious, +discriminating, and careful. His judgment was cool, comprehensive, and +judicious. His style is in general clear, logical, and compact. His +acquired ability was not, however, extraordinary. He was a scholar neither +by education nor by profession. His life was too full of active duties, or +too remote from the centres of knowledge for acquisitions in the +departments of elegant and refined learning. The period in which he lived +was little distinguished for literary culture. A more brilliant day was +approaching, but it had not yet appeared. The French language was still +crude and unpolished. It had not been disciplined and moulded into the +excellence to which it soon after arose in the reign of Louis XIV. We +cannot in reason look for a grace, refinement, and flexibility which the +French language had not at that time generally attained. But it is easy to +see under the rude, antique, and now obsolete forms which characterize +Champlain's narratives, the elements of a style which, under, early +discipline, nicer culture, and a richer vocabulary, might have made it a +model for all times. There are, here and there, some involved, unfinished, +and obscure passages, which seem, indeed, to be the offspring of haste, or +perhaps of careless and inadequate proof-reading. But in general his style +is without ornament, simple, dignified, concise, and clear. While he was +not a diffusive writer, his works are by no means limited in extent, as +they occupy in the late erudite Laverdière's edition, six quarto volumes, +containing fourteen hundred pages. In them are three large maps, +delineating the whole northeastern part of the continent, executed with +great care and labor by his own hand, together with numerous local +drawings, picturing not only bays and harbors, Indian canoes, wigwams, and +fortresses, but several battle scenes, conveying a clear idea, not possible +by a mere verbal description, of the savage implements and mode of warfare. +[120] His works include, likewise, a treatise on navigation, full of +excellent suggestions to the practical seaman of that day, drawn from his +own experience, stretching over a period of more than forty years. + +The Voyages of Champlain, as an authority, must always stand in the front +rank. In trustworthiness, in richness and fullness of detail, they have no +competitor in the field of which they treat. His observations upon the +character, manners, customs, habits, and utensils of the aborigines, were +made before they were modified or influenced in their mode of life by +European civilization. The intercourse of the strolling fur-trader and +fishermen with them was so infrequent and brief at that early period, that +it made upon them little or no impression. Champlain consequently pictures +the Indian in his original, primeval simplicity. This will always give to +his narratives, in the eye of the historian, the ethnologist, and the +antiquary, a peculiar and pre-eminent importance. The result of personal +observation, eminently truthful and accurate, their testimony must in all +future time be incomparably the best that can be obtained relating to the +aborigines on this part of the American continent. + +In completing this memoir, the reader can hardly fail to be impressed, not +to say disappointed, by the fact that results apparently insignificant +should thus far have followed a life of able, honest, unselfish, heroic +labor. The colony was still small in numbers, the acres subdued and brought +into cultivation were few, and the aggregate yearly products were meagre. +But it is to be observed that the productiveness of capital and labor and +talent, two hundred and seventy years ago, cannot well be compared with the +standards of to-day. Moreover, the results of Champlain's career are +insignificant rather in appearance than in reality. The work which he did +was in laying foundations, while the superstructure was to be reared in +other years and by other hands. The palace or temple, by its lofty and +majestic proportions, attracts the eye and gratifies the taste; but its +unseen foundations, with their nicely adjusted arches, without which the +superstructure would crumble to atoms, are not less the result of the +profound knowledge and practical wisdom of the architect. The explorations +made by Champlain early and late, the organization and planting of his +colonies, the resistance of avaricious corporations, the holding of +numerous savage tribes in friendly alliance, the daily administration of +the affairs of the colony, of the savages, and of the corporation in +France, to the eminent satisfaction of all generous and noble-minded +patrons, and this for a period of more than thirty years, are proofs of an +extraordinary combination of mental and moral qualities. Without +impulsiveness, his warm and tender sympathies imparted to him an unusual +power and influence over other men. He was wise, modest, and judicious in +council, prompt, vigorous, and practical in administration, simple and +frugal in his mode of life, persistent and unyielding in the execution of +his plans, brave and valiant in danger, unselfish, honest, and +conscientious in the discharge of duty. These qualities, rare in +combination, were always conspicuous in Champlain, and justly entitle him +to the respect and admiration of mankind. + +ENDNOTES: + +117. _Vide Creuxius, Historia Canadensis_, pp 183, 184. + +118. The justness of Champlain's conception of the value of the fur-trade + has been verified by its subsequent history. The Hudson's Bay Company + was organized for the purpose of carrying on this trade, under a + charter granted by Charles II., in 1670. A part of the trade has at + times been conducted by other associations But this company is still + in active and rigorous operation. Its capital is $10,000,000. At its + reorganization in 1863, it was estimated that it would yield a net + annual income, to be divided among the corporators, of $400,000. It + employs twelve hundred servants beside its chief factors. It is easy + to see what a vast amount of wealth in the shape of furs and peltry + has been pouring into the European markets, for more than two hundred + years, from this fur bearing region, and the sources of this wealth + are probably little, if in any degree, diminished. + +119. _Vide Documents inédits sur Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne + Charavay, archiviste-paléographe, Paris, 1875. + +120. The later sketches made by Champlain are greatly superior to those + which he executed to illustrate his voyage in the West Indies. They + are not only accurate, but some of them are skilfully done, and not + only do no discredit to an amateur, but discover marks of artistic + taste and skill. + + + + +ANNOTATIONES POSTSCRIPTAE + +EUSTACHE BOULLÉ. A brother-in-law of Champlain, who made his first visit to +Canada in 1618. He was an active assistant of Champlain, and in 1625 was +named his lieutenant. He continued there until the taking of Quebec by the +English in 1629. He subsequently took holy orders.--_Vide Doc. inédits sur +Samuel de Champlain_, par Étienne Charavay. Paris, 1875, p. 8. + +PONT GRAVÉ. The whole career of this distinguished merchant was closely +associated with Canadian trade. He was in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in the +interest of Chauvin, in 1599. He commanded the expedition sent out by De +Chaste in 1603, when Champlain made his first exploration of the River St. +Lawrence. He was intrusted with the chief management of the trade carried +on with the Indians by the various companies and viceroys under Champlain's +lieutenancy until the removal of the colony by the English, when his active +life was closed by the infirmities of age. He was always a warm and trusted +friend of Champlain, who sought his counsel on all occasions of importance. + +THE BIRTH OF CHAMPLAIN. All efforts to fix the exact date of his birth have +been unsuccessful. M. De Richemond, author of a _Biographie de la Charente +Inférieure_, instituted most careful searches, particularly with the hope +of finding a record of his baptism. The records of the parish of Brouage +extend back only to August 11, 1615. The duplicates, deposited at the +office of the civil tribunal of Marennes anterior to this date, were +destroyed by fire.--_MS. letter of M. De Richemond, Archivist of the Dep. +of Charente Inférieure_, La Rochelle, July 17, 1875. + +MARC LESCARBOT. We have cited the authority of this writer in this work on +many occasions. He was born at Vervins, perhaps about 1585. He became an +advocate, and a resident of Paris, and, according to Larousse, died in +1630. He came to America in 1606, and passed the winter of that year at the +French settlement near the present site of Lower Granville, on the western +bank of Annapolis Basin in Nova Scotia. In the spring of 1607 he crossed +the Bay of Fundy, entered the harbor of St. John, N. B., and extended his +voyage as far as De Monts's Island in the River St. Croix. He returned to +France that same year, on the breaking up of De Monts's colony. He was the +author of the following works: _Histoire de la Nouvelle France_, 1609; _Les +Muses de la Nouvelle France; Tableau de la Suisse, auquel sont décrites les +Singularites des Alpes_, Paris, 1618; _La Chasse aux Anglais dans l'isle de +Rhé et au Siége de la Rochelle, et la Réduction de cette Ville en 1628_, +Paris, 1629. + +PLYMOUTH HARBOR. This note will modify our remarks on p. 78, Vol. II. +Champlain entered this harbor on the 18th of July, 1605, and, lingering but +a single day, sailed out of it on the 19th. He named it _Port St. Louis_, +or _Port du Cap St. Louis_.--_Vide antea_, pp. 53, 54; Vol. II., pp. 76-78. +As the fruit of his brief stay in the harbor of Plymouth, he made an +outline sketch of the bay which preserves most of its important features. +He delineates what is now called on our Coast Survey maps _Long Beach_ and +_Duxbury Beach_. At the southern extremity of the latter is the headland +known as the _Gurnet_. Within the bay he figures two islands, of which he +speaks also in the text. These two islands are mentioned in Mourt's +Relation, printed in 1622.--_Vide Dexter's ed._ p. 60. They are also +figured on an old map of the date of 1616, found by J. R. Brodhead in the +Royal Archives at the Hague; likewise on a map by Lucini, without date, +but, as it has Boston on it, it must have been executed after 1630. These +maps may be found in _Doc. His. of the State of New York_, Vol. I.; +_Documents relating to the Colonial His. of the State of New York_, Vol. +I., p. 13. The reader will find these islands likewise indicated on the map +of William Wood, entitled _The South part of New-England, as it is Planted +this yeare, 1634_.--_Vide New England Prospect_, Prince Society ed. They +appear also on Blaskowitz's "Plan of Plimouth," 1774.--_Vide Changes in the +Harbor of Plymouth_, by Prof. Henry Mitchell, Chief of Physical +Hydrography, U. S. Coast Survey, Report of 1876, Appendix No. 9. In the +collections of the Mass. Historical Society for 1793, Vol. II., in an +article entitled _A Topographical Description of Duxborough_, but without +the author's name, the writer speaks of two pleasant islands within the +harbor, and adds that Saquish was joined to the Gurnet by a narrow piece of +land, but for several years the water had made its way across and +_insulated_ it. + +From the early maps to which we have referred, and the foregoing citations, +it appears that there were two islands in the harbor of Plymouth from the +time of Champlain till about the beginning of the present century. A +careful collation of Champlain's map of the harbor with the recent Coast +Survey Charts will render it evident that one of these islands thus figured +by Champlain, and by others later, is Saquish Head; that since his time a +sand-bank has been thrown up and now become permanent, connecting it with +the Gurnet by what is now called Saquish Neck. Prof. Mitchell, in the work +already cited, reports that there are now four fathoms less of water in the +deeper portion of the roadstead than when Champlain explored the harbor in +1605. There must, therefore, have been an enormous deposit of sand to +produce this result, and this accounts for the neck of sand which has been +thrown up and become fixed or permanent, now connecting Saquish Head with +the Gurnet. + +MOUNT DESERT. This island was discovered on the fifth day of September, +1604. Champlain having been comissioned by Sieur De Monts, the Patentee of +La Cadie, to make discoveries on the coast southwest of the Saint Croix, +left the mouth of that river in a small barque of seventeen or eighteen +tons, with twelve sailors and two savages as guides, and anchored the same +evening, apparently near Bar Harbor. While here, they explored Frenchman's +Bay as far on the north as the Narrows, where Champlain says the distance +across to the mainland is not more than a hundred paces. The next day, on +the sixth of the month, they sailed two leagues, and came to Otter Creek +Cove, which extends up into the island a mile or more, nestling between the +spurs of Newport Mountain on the east and Green Mountain on the west. +Champlain says this cove is "at the foot of the mountains," which clearly +identifies it, as it is the only one in the neighborhood answering to this +description. In this cove they discovered several savages, who had come +there to hunt beavers and to fish. On a visit to Otter Cove Cliffs in June, +1880, we were told by an old fisherman ninety years of age, living on the +borders of this cove, and the statement was confirmed by several others, +that on the creek at the head of the cove, there was, within his memory, a +well-known beaver dam. + +The Indians whose acquaintance Champlain made at this place conducted him +among the islands, to the mouth of the Penobscot, and finally up the river, +to the site of the present city of Bangor. It was on this visit, on the +fifth of September, 1604, that Champlain gave the island the name of +_Monts-déserts_. The French generally gave to places names that were +significant. In this instance they did not depart from their usual custom. +The summits of most of the mountains on this island, then as now, were only +rocks, being destitute of trees, and this led Champlain to give its +significant name, which, in plain English, means the island of the desert, +waste, or uncultivatable mountains. If we follow the analogy of the +language, either French or English, it should be pronounced with the accent +on the penult, Mount Désert, and not on the last syllable, as we sometimes +hear it. This principle cannot be violated without giving to the word a +meaning which, in this connection, would be obviously inappropriate and +absurd. + +CARTE DE LA NOUVELLE FRANCE, 1632. As the map of 1632 has often been +referred to in this work, we have introduced into this volume a heliotype +copy. The original was published in the year of its date, but it had been +completed before Champlain left Quebec in 1629. The reader will bear in +mind that it was made from Champlain's personal explorations, and from such +other information as could be obtained from the meagre sources which +existed at that early period, and not from any accurate or scientific +surveys. The information which he obtained from others was derived from +more or less doubtful sources, coming as it did from fishermen, +fur-traders, and the native inhabitants. The two former undoubtedly +constructed, from time to time, rude maps of the coast for their own use. +From these Champlain probably obtained valuable hints, and he was thus able +to supplement his own knowledge of the regions with which he was least +familiar on the Atlantic coast and in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Beyond the +limits of his personal explorations on the west, his information was wholly +derived from the savages. No European had penetrated into those regions, if +we except his servant, Étienne Brûlé, whose descriptions could have been of +very little service. The deficiencies of Champlain's map are here +accordingly most apparent. Rivers and lakes farther west than the Georgian +Bay, and south of it, are sometimes laid down where none exist, and, again, +where they do exist, none are portrayed. The outline of Lake Huron, for +illustration, was entirely misconceived. A river-like line only of water +represents Lake Erie, while Lake Michigan does not appear at all. + +The delineation of Hudson's Bay was evidently taken from the TABULA NAUTICA +of Henry Hudson, as we have shown in Note 297, Vol. II., to which the +reader is referred. + +It will be observed that there is no recognition on the map of any English +settlement within the limits of New England. In 1629, when the _Carte de la +Nouvelle France_ was completed, an English colony had been planted at +Plymouth, Mass., nine years, and another at Piscataqua, or Portsmouth, N. +H., six years. The Rev. William Blaxton had been for several years in +occupation of the peninsula of Shawmut, or Boston. Salem had also been +settled one or two years. These last two may not, it is true, have come to +Champlain's knowledge. But none of these settlements are laid down on the +map. The reason of these omissions is obvious. The whole territory from at +least the 40th degree of north latitude, stretching indefinitely to the +north, was claimed by the French. As possession was, at that day, the most +potent argument for the justice of a territorial claim, the recognition, on +a French map, of these English settlements, would have been an indiscretion +which the wise and prudent Champlain would not be likely to commit. + +There is, however, a distinct recognition of an English settlement farther +south. Cape Charles and Cape Henry appear at the entrance of Chesapeake +Bay. Virginia is inscribed in its proper place, while Jamestown and Point +Comfort are referred to by numbers. + +On the borders of the map numerous fish belonging to these waters are +figured, together with several vessels of different sizes and in different +attitudes, thus preserving their form and structure at that period. The +degrees of latitude and longitude are numerically indicated, which are +convenient for the references found in Champlain's journals, but are +necessarily too inaccurate to be otherwise useful. But notwithstanding its +defects, when we take into account the limited means at his command, the +difficulties which he had to encounter, the vast region which it covers, +this map must be regarded as an extraordinary achievement. It is by far the +most accurate in outline, and the most finished in detail, of any that had +been attempted of this region anterior to this date. + +THE PORTRAITS OF CHAMPLAIN.--Three engraved portraits of Champlain have +come to our knowledge. All of them appear to have been after an original +engraved portrait by Balthazar Moncornet. This artist was born in Rouen +about 1615, and died not earlier than 1670. He practised his art in Paris, +where he kept a shop for the sale of prints. Though not eminently +distinguished as a skilful artist, he nevertheless left many works, +particularly a great number of portraits. As he had not arrived at the age +of manhood when Champlain died, his engraving of him was probably executed +about fifteen or twenty years after that event. At that time Madame +Champlain, his widow, was still living, as likewise many of Champlaln's +intimate friends. From some of them it is probable Moncornet obtained a +sketch or portrait, from which his engraving was made. + +Of the portraits of Champlain which we have seen, we may mention first that +in Laverdière's edition of his works. This is a half-length, with long, +curling hair, moustache and imperial. The sleeves of the close-fitting coat +are slashed, and around the neck is the broad linen collar of the period, +fastened in front with cord and tassels. On the left, in the background, is +the promontory of Quebec, with the representation of several turreted +buildings both in the upper and lower town. On the border of the oval, +which incloses the subject, is the legend, _Moncornet Ex c. p._ The +engraving is coarsely executed, apparently on copper. It is alleged to have +been taken from an original Moncornet in France. Our inquiries as to where +the original then was, or in whose possession it then was or is now, have +been unsuccessful. No original, when inquiries were made by Dr. Otis, a +short time since, was found to exist in the department of prints in the +Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris. + +Another portrait of Champlain is found in Shea's translation of +Charlevoix's History of New France. This was taken from the portrait of +Champlain, which, with that of Cartier, Montcalm, Wolfe, and others, adorns +the walls of the reception room of the Speaker of the House of Commons, in +the Parliament House at Ottawa, in Canada, which was painted by Thomas +Hamel, from a copy of Moncornet's engraving obtained in France by the late +M. Faribault. From the costume and general features, it appears to be after +the same as that contained in Laverdière's edition of Champlain's works, to +which we have already referred. The artist has given it a youthful +appearance, which suggests that the original sketch was made many years +before Champlain's death. We are indebted to the politeness of Dr. Shea for +the copies which accompany this work. + +A third portrait of Champlain may be found in L'Histoire de France, par M. +Guizot, Paris, 1876, Vol. v. p. 149. The inscription reads: "CHAMPLAIN +[SAMUEL DE], d'après un portrait gravé par Moncornet." It is engraved on +wood by E. Ronjat, and represents the subject in the advanced years of his +life. In position, costume, and accessories it is widely different from the +others, and Moncornet must have left more than one engraving of Champlain, +or we must conclude that the modern artists have taken extraordinary +liberties with their subject. The features are strong, spirited, and +characteristic. A heliotype copy accompanies this volume. + + + + +PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION. + +The journals of Champlain, commonly called his Voyages, were written and +published by him at intervals from 1603 to 1632. The first volume was +printed in 1603, and entitled,-- + +1. _Des Sauuages, ou, Voyage de Samuel Champlain, de Brouage, faict en la +France Nouuelle, l'an mil six cens trois. A Paris, chez Claude de +Monstr'oeil, tenant sa boutique en la Cour du Palais, au nom de Jesus. +1604. Auec privilege du Roy_. 12mo. 4 preliminary leaves. Text 36 leaves. +The title-page contains also a sub-title, enumerating in detail the +subjects treated of in the work. Another copy with slight verbal changes +has no date on the title-page, but in both the "privilège" is dated +November 15, 1603. The copies which we have used are in the Library of +Harvard College, and in that of Mrs. John Carter Brown, of Providence, R. +I. + +An English translation of this issue is contained in _Purchas his +Pilgrimes_. London, 1625, vol. iv., pp. 1605-1619. + +The next publication appeared in 1613, with the following title:-- + +2. _Les Voyages du Sieur de Champlain Xaintongeois, Capitaine ordinaire +pour le Roy, en la marine. Divisez en deux livres. ou, journal tres-fidele +des observations faites és descouuertures de la Nouuelle France: tant en la +description des terres, costes, riuieres, ports, haures, leurs hauteurs, & +plusieurs delinaisons de la guide-aymant; qu'en la creance des peuples, +leur superslition, façon de viure & de guerroyer: enrichi de quantité de +figures, A Paris, chez Jean Berjon, rue S. Jean de Beauuais, au Cheual +volant, & en sa boutique au Palais, à la gallerie des prisonniers. +M.DC.XIII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 4to. 10 preliminary leaves. Text, 325 +pages; table 5 pp. One large folding map. One small map. 22 plates. The +title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title in regard to the two maps. + +The above-mentioned volume contains, also, the Fourth Voyage, bound in at +the end, with the following title:-- + +_Qvatriesme Voyage du Sr de Champlain Capitaine ordinaire povr le Roy en la +marine, & Lieutenant de Monseigneur le Prince de Condé en la Nouuelle +France, fait en l'année_ 1613. 52 pages. Whether this was also issued as a +separate work, we are not informed. + +The copy of this publication of 1613 which we have used is in the Library +of Harvard College. + +The next publication of Champlain was in 1619. There was a re-issue of the +same in 1620 and likewise in 1627. The title of the last-mentioned issue is +as follows:-- + +3. _Voyages et Descovvertures faites en la Novvelle France, depuis l'année +1615. iusques à la fin de l'année 1618. Par le Sieur de Champlain, +Cappitaine ordinaire pour le Roy en la Mer du Ponant. Seconde Edition. A +Paris, chez Clavde Collet, au Palais, en la gallerie des Prisonniers. +M.D.C.XXVII. Avec privilege dv Roy_. 12mo. 8 preliminary leaves. Text 158 +leaves, 6 plates. The title-page contains, in addition, a sub-title, giving +an outline of the contents. The edition of 1627, belonging to the Library +of Harvard College, contains likewise an illuminated title-page, which we +here give in heliotype. As this illuminated title-page bears the date of +1619, it was probably that of the original edition of that date. + +The next and last publication of Champlain was issued in 1632, with the +following title:-- + +4. _Les Voyages de la Novvelle France occidentale, dicte Canada, faits par +le Sr de Champlain Xainctongeois, Capitaine pour le Roy en la Marine du +Ponant, & toutes les Descouuertes qu'il a faites en ce païs depuis l'an +1603, iusques en l'an 1629. Où se voit comme ce pays a esté premierement +descouuert par les François, sous l'authorité de nos Roys tres-Chrestiens, +iusques au regne de sa Majesté à present regnante Louis XIII. Roy de France +& de Navarre. A Paris. Chez Clavde Collet au Palais, en la Gallerie des +Prisonniers, à l'Estoille d'Or. M.DC.XXXII. Avec Privilege du Roy_. + +There is also a long sub-title, with a statement that the volume contains +what occurred in New France in 1631. The volume is dedicated to Cardinal +Richelieu. 4to. 16 preliminary pages. Text 308 pages. 6 plates, which are +the same as those in the edition of 1619. "Seconde Partie," 310 pages. One +large general map; table explanatory of map, 8 pages. "Traitté de la +Marine," 54 pages. 2 plates. "Doctrine Chrestienne" and "L'Oraison +Dominicale," 20 pages. Another copy gives the name of Sevestre as +publisher, and another that of Pierre Le Mvr. + +The publication of 1632 is stated by Laverdière to have been reissued in +1640, with a new title and date, but without further changes. This, +however, is not found in the National Library at Paris, which contains all +the other editions and issues. The copies of the edition of 1632 which we +have consulted are in the Harvard College Library and in the Boston +Athenaeum. + +It is of importance to refer, as we have done, to the particular copy used, +for it appears to have been the custom in the case of books printed as +early as the above, to keep the type standing, and print issues at +intervals, sometimes without any change in the title-page or date, and yet +with alterations to some extent in the text. For instance, the copy of the +publication of 1613 in the Harvard College Library differs from that in +Mrs. Brown's Library, at Providence, in minor points, and particularly in +reference to some changes in the small map. The same is true of the +publication of 1603. The variations are probably in part owing to the lack +of uniformity in spelling at that period. + +None of Champlain's works had been reprinted until 1830, when there +appeared, in two volumes, a reprint of the publication of 1632, "at the +expense of the government, in order to give work to printers." Since then +there has been published the elaborate work, with extensive annotations, of +the Abbé Laverdière, as follows:-- + +OEUVRES DE CHAMPLAIN, PUBLIÉES SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE L'UNIVERSITÉ LAVAL. PAR +L'ABBÉ C. H. LAVERDIÈRE, M. A. SECONDE ÉDITION. 6 TOMES. 4TO. QUÉBEC: +IMPRIMÉ AU SÉMINAIRE PAR GEO. E. DESBARATS. 1870. + +This contains all the works of Champlain above mentioned, and the text is a +faithful reprint from the early Paris editions. It includes, in addition to +this, Champlain's narrative of his voyage to the West Indies, in 1598, of +which the following is the title:-- + +_Brief Discovrs des choses plvs remarqvables qve Sammvel Champlain de +Brovage a reconneues aux Indes Occidentalles au voiage qu'il en a faict en +icelles en l'année mil v[c] iiij.[xx].xix. & en l'année mil vj[c] i. comme +ensuit_. + +This had never before been published in French, although a translation of +it had been issued by the Hakluyt Society in 1859. The _MS_. is the only +one of Champlain's known to exist, excepting a letter to Richelieu, +published by Laverdière among the "Pièces Justificatives." When used by +Laverdière it was in the possession of M. Féret, of Dieppe, but has since +been advertised for sale by the Paris booksellers, Maisonneuve & Co., at +the price of 15,000 francs, and is now in the possession of M. Pinart. + +The volume printed in 1632 has been frequently compared with that of 1613, +as if the former were merely a second edition of the latter. But this +conveys an erroneous idea of the relation between the two. In the first +place, the volume of 1632 contains what is not given in any of the previous +publications of Champlain. That is, it extends his narrative over the +period from 1620 to 1632. It likewise goes over the same ground that is +covered not only by the volume of 1613, but also by the other still later +publications of Champlain, up to 1620. It includes, moreover, a treatise on +navigation. In the second place, it is an abridgment, and not a second +edition in any proper sense. It omits for the most part personal details +and descriptions of the manners and customs of the Indians, so that very +much that is essential to the full comprehension of Champlain's work as an +observer and explorer is gone. Moreover, there seems a to be some internal +evidence indicating that this abridgment was not made by Champlain himself, +and Laverdière suggests that the work has been tampered with by another +hand. Thus, all favorable allusions to the Récollets, to whom Champlain was +friendly, are modified or expunged, while the Jesuits are made to appear in +a prominent and favorable light. This question has been specially +considered by Laverdière in his introduction to the issue of 1632, to which +the reader is referred. + +The language used by Champlain is essentially the classic French of the +time of Henry IV. The dialect or patois of Saintonge, his native province, +was probably understood and spoken by him; but we have not discovered any +influence of it in his writings, either in respect to idiom or vocabulary. +An occasional appearance at court, and his constant official intercourse +with public men of prominence at Paris and elsewhere, rendered necessary +strict attention to the language he used. + +But though using in general the language of court and literature, he +offends not unfrequently against the rules of grammar and logical +arrangement. Probably his busy career did not allow him to read, much less +study, at least in reference to their style, such masterpieces of +literature as the "Essais" of Montaigne, the translations of Amyot, or the +"Histoire Universelle" of D'Aubigné. The voyages of Cartier he undoubtedly +read; but, although superior in point of literary merit to Champlaih's +writings, they were, by no-means without their blemishes, nor were they +worthy of being compared with the classical authors to which we have +alluded. But Champlain's discourse is so straightforward, and the thought +so simple and clear, that the meaning is seldom obscure, and his occasional +violations of grammar and looseness of style are quite pardonable in one +whose occupations left him little time for correction and revision. Indeed, +one rather wonders that the unpretending explorer writes so well. It is the +thought, not the words, which occupies his attention. Sometimes, after +beginning a period which runs on longer than usual, his interest in what he +has to narrate seems so completely to occupy him that he forgets the way in +which he commenced, and concludes in a manner not in logical accordance +with the beginning. We subjoin a passage or two illustrative of his +inadvertencies in respect to language. They are from his narrative of the +voyage of 1603, and the text of the Paris edition is followed: + +1. "Au dit bout du lac, il y a des peuples qui sont cabannez, puis on entre +dans trois autres riuieres, quelques trois ou quatre iournees dans chacune, +où au bout desdites riuieres, il y a deux ou trois manières de lacs, d'où +prend la source du Saguenay." Chap. iv. + +2. "Cedit iour rengeant tousiours ladite coste du Nort, iusques à vn lieu +où nous relachasmes pour les vents qui nous estoient contraires, où il y +auoit force rochers & lieux fort dangereux, nous feusmes trois iours en +attendant le beau temps" Chap. v. + +3. "Ce seroit vn grand bien qui pourrait trouuer à la coste de la Floride +quelque passage qui allast donner proche du & susdit grand lac." Chap. x. + +4. "lesquelles [riuieres] vont dans les terres, où le pays y est tres-bon & +fertille, & de fort bons ports." Chap. x. + +5. "Il y a aussi vne autre petite riuiere qui va tomber comme à moitié +chemin de celle par où reuint ledict sieur Preuert, où sont comme deux +manières de lacs en ceste-dicte riuiere." Chap. xii. + +The following passages are taken at random from the voyages of 1604-10, as +illustrative of Champlain's style in general: + +1. Explorations in the Bay of Fundy, Voyage of 1604-8. "De la riuiere +sainct Iean nous fusmes à quatre isles, en l'vne desquelles nous mismes +pied à terre, & y trouuasmes grande quantité d'oiseaux appeliez Margos, +don't nous prismes force petits, qui sont aussi bons que pigeonneaux. Le +sieur de Poitrincourt s'y pensa esgarer: Mais en fin il reuint à nostre +barque comme nous l'allions cerchant autour de isle, qui est esloignee de +la terre ferme trois lieues." Chap iii. + +2. Explorations in the Vineyard Sound. Voyage of 1604-8. "Comme nous eusmes +fait quelques six ou sept lieues nous eusmes cognoissance d'vne isle que +nous nommasmes la soupçonneuse, pour auoir eu plusieurs fois croyance de +loing que ce fut autre chose qu'vne isle, puis le vent nous vint contraire, +qui nous fit relascher au lieu d'où nous estions partis, auquel nous fusmes +deux on trois jours sans que durant ce temps il vint aucun sauuage se +presenter à nous." Chap. xv. + +3. Fight with the Indians on the Richelieu. Voyage of 1610. + +"Les Yroquois s'estonnoient du bruit de nos arquebuses, & principalement de +ce que les balles persoient mieux que leurs flesches; & eurent tellement +l'espouuante de l'effet qu'elles faisoient, voyant plusieurs de leurs +compaignons tombez morts, & blessez, que de crainte qu'ils auoient, croyans +ces coups estre sans remede ils se iettoient par terre, quand ils +entendoient le bruit: aussi ne tirions gueres à faute, & deux ou trois +balles à chacun coup, & auios la pluspart du temps nos arquebuses appuyees +sur le bord de leur barricade." Chap. ii. + +The following words, found in the writings of Champlain, are to be noted as +used by him in a sense different from the ordinary one, or as not found in +the dictionaries. They occur in the voyages of 1603 and 1604-11. The +numbers refer to the continuous pagination in the Quebec edition: + +_appoil_, 159. A species of duck. (?) + +_catalougue_, 266. A cloth used for wrapping up a dead body. Cf. Spanish +_catalogo_. + +_déserter_, 211, _et passim_. In the sense of to clear up a new country by +removing the trees, &c. + +_esplan_, 166. A small fish, like the _équille_ of Normandy. + +_estaire_, 250. A kind of mat. Cf. Spanish _estera_. + +_fleurir_, 247. To break or foam, spoken of the waves of the sea. + +_legueux_, 190. Watery.(?) Or for _ligneux_, fibrous.(?) + +_marmette_, 159. A kind of sea-bird. + +_Matachias_, 75, _et passim_. Indian word for strings of beads, used to +ornament the person. + +_papesi_, 381. Name of one of the sails of a vessel. + +_petunoir_, 79. Pipe for smoking. + +_Pilotua_, 82, _et passim_. Word used by the Indians for soothsayer or +medicine-man. + +_souler_, 252. In sense of, to be wont, accustomed. + +_truitière_, 264. Trout-brook. + +The first and main aim of the translator has been to give the exact sense +of the original, and he has endeavored also to reproduce as far as possible +the spirit and tone of Champlain's narrative. The important requisite in a +translation, that it should be pure and idiomatic English, without any +transfer of the mode of expression peculiar to the foreign language, has +not, it is hoped, been violated, at least to any great extent. If, +perchance, a French term or usage has been transferred to the translation, +it is because it has seemed that the sense or spirit would be better +conveyed in this way. At best, a translation comes short of the original, +and it is perhaps pardonable at times to admit a foreign term, if by this +means the sense or style seems to be better preserved. It is hoped that the +present work has been done so as to satisfy the demands of the historian, +who may find it convenient to use it in his investigations. + +C. P. O. + +BOSTON, June 17, 1880 + + + + +THE SAVAGES + +OR VOYAGE OF + +SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN + +OF BROUAGE, + +Made in New France in the year 1603. + +DESCRIBING, + +The customs, mode of life, marriages, wars, and dwellings of the Savages of +Canada. Discoveries for more than four hundred and fifty leagues in the +country. The tribes, animals, rivers, lakes, islands, lands, trees, and +fruits found there. Discoveries on the coast of La Cadie, and numerous +mines existing there according to the report of the Savages. + +PARIS. + +Claude de Monstr'oeil, having his store in the Court of the Palace, under +the name of Jesus. + +WITH AUTHORITY OF THE KING. + + + + +DEDICATION. + +To the very noble, high and powerful Lord Charles De Montmorency, Chevalier +of the Orders of the King, Lord of Ampuille and of Meru, Count of +Secondigny, Viscount of Melun, Baron of Chateauneuf and of Gonnort, Admiral +of France and of Brittany. + +_My Lord, + +Although many have written about the country of Canada, I have nevertheless +been unwilling to rest satisfied with their report, and have visited these +regions expressly in order to be able to render a faithful testimony to the +truth, which you will see, if it be your pleasure, in the brief narrative +which I address to you, and which I beg you may find agreeable, and I pray +God for your ever increasing greatness and prosperity, my Lord, and shall +remain all my life, + + Your most humble + and obedient servant, + S. CHAMPLAIN_. + + + + +EXTRACT FROM THE LICENSE + +By license of the King, given at Paris on the 15th of November, 1603, +signed Brigard. + +Permission is given to Sieur de Champlain to have printed by such printer +as may seem good to him, a book which he has composed, entitled, "The +Savages, or Voyage of Sieur de Champlain, made in the Year 1603;" and all +book-sellers and printers of this kingdom are forbidden to print, sell, or +distribute said book, except with the consent of him whom he shall name and +choose, on penalty of a fine of fifty crowns, of confiscation, and all +expenses, as is more fully stated in the license. + +Said Sieur de Champlain, in accordance with his license, has chosen and +given permission to Claude de Monstr'oeil, book-seller to the University of +Paris, to print said book, and he has ceded and transferred to him his +license, so that no other person can print or have printed, sell, or +distribute it, during the time of five years, except with the consent of +said Monstr'oeil, on the penalties contained in the said license. + + + + +THE SAVAGES, + +VOYAGE OF SIEUR DE CHAMPLAIN + +MADE IN THE YEAR 1603. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BRIEF NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE FROM HONFLEUR IN NORMANDY TO THE PORT OF +TADOUSSAC IN CANADA + +We set out from Honfleur on the 15th of March, 1603. On the same day we put +back to the roadstead of Havre de Grâce, the wind not being favorable. On +Sunday following, the 16th, we set sail on our route. On the 17th, we +sighted d'Orgny and Grenesey, [121] islands between the coast of Normandy +and England. On the 18th of the same month, we saw the coast of Brittany. +On the 19th, at 7 o'clock in the evening we reckoned that we were off +Ouessant. [122] On the 21st, at 7 o'clock in the morning, we met seven +Flemish vessels, coming, as we thought from the Indies. On Easter day, the +30th of the same month, we encountered a great tempest, which seemed to be +more lightning than wind, and which lasted for seventeen days, though not +continuing so severe as it was on the first two days. During this time, we +lost more than we gained. On the 16th of April, to the delight of all, the +weather began to be more favorable, and the sea calmer than it had been, so +that we continued our course until the 18th, when we fell in with a very +lofty iceberg. The next day we sighted a bank of ice more than eight +leagues long, accompanied by an infinite number of smaller banks, which +prevented us from going on. In the opinion of the pilot, these masses of +ice were about a hundred or a hundred and twenty leagues from Canada. We +were in latitude 45 deg. 40', and continued our course in 44 deg.. + +On the 2nd of May we reached the Bank at 11 o'clock in the forenoon, in 44 +deg. 40'. On the 6th of the same month we had approached so near to land +that we heard the sea beating on the shore, which, however, we could not +see on account of the dense fog, to which these coasts are subject. [123] +For this reason we put out to sea again a few leagues, until the next +morning, when the weather being clear, we sighted land, which was Cape +St. Mary. [124] + +On the 12th we were overtaken by a severe gale, lasting two days. On the +15th we sighted the islands of St. Peter. [125] On the 17th we fell in with +an ice-bank near Cape Ray, six leagues in length, which led us to lower +sail for the entire night that we might avoid the danger to which we were +exposed. On the next day we set sail and sighted Cape Ray, [126] the +islands of St. Paul, and Cape St. Lawrence. [127] The latter is on the +mainland lying to the south, and the distance from it to Cape Ray is +eighteen leagues, that being the breadth of the entrance to the great bay +of Canada. [128] On the same day, about ten o'clock in the morning, we fell +in with another bank of ice, more than eight leagues in length. On the +20th, we sighted an island some twenty-five or thirty leagues long, called +_Anticosty_, [129] which marks the entrance to the river of Canada. The +next day, we sighted Gaspé, [130] a very high land, and began to enter the +river of Canada, coasting along the south side as far as Montanne, [131] +distant sixty-five leagues from Gaspé. Proceeding on our course, we came in +sight of the Bic, [132] twenty leagues from Mantanne and on the southern +shore; continuing farther, we crossed the river to Tadoussac, fifteen +leagues from the Bic. All this region is very high, barren, and +unproductive. + +On the 24th of the month, we came to anchor before Tadoussac, [133] and on +the 26th entered this port, which has the form of a cove. It is at the +mouth of the river Saguenay, where there is a current and tide of +remarkable swiftness and a great depth of water, and where there are +sometimes troublesome winds, [134] in consequence of the cold they bring. +It is stated that it is some forty-five or fifty leagues up to the first +fall in this river, and that it flows from the northwest. The harbor of +Tadoussac is small, in which only ten or twelve vessels could lie; but +there is water enough on the east, sheltered from the river Saguenay, and +along a little mountain, which is almost cut off by the river. On the shore +there are very high mountains, on which there is little earth, but only +rocks and sand, which are covered, with pine, cypress and fir, [135] and a +smallish species of trees. There is a small pond near the harbor, enclosed +by wood-covered mountains. At the entrance to the harbor, there are two +points: the one on the west side extending a league out into the river, and +called St. Matthew's Point; [136] the other on the southeast side extending +out a quarter of a league, and called All-Devils' Point. This harbor is +exposed to the winds from the south, southeast, and south-southwest. The +distance from St. Matthew's Point to All-Devils' Point is nearly a league; +both points are dry at low tide. + +ENDNOTES: + +121. Alderney and Guernsey. French maps at the present day for Alderney + have d'Aurigny. + +122. The islands lying off Finistère, on the western extremity of Brittany + in France. + +123. The shore which they approached was probably Cape Pine, east of + Placentia Bay, Newfoundland. + +124. In Placentia bay, on the southern coast of Newfoundland. + +125. West of Placentia Bay. + +126. Cape Ray is northwest of the islands of St. Peter. + +127. Cape St. Lawrence, now called Cape North, is the northern extremity of + the island of Cape Breton, and the island of St. Paul is a few miles + north of it. + +128. The Gulf or Bay of St. Lawrence. It was so named by Jacques Cartier on + his second voyage, in 1535. Nous nommasmes la dicte baye la Sainct + Laurens, _Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avezac ed. p. 8. The northeastern part + of it is called on De Laet's map, "Grand Baye." + +129. "This island is about one hundred and forty miles long, + thirty-five miles broad at its widest part, with an average + breadth of twenty-seven and one-half miles."--_Le Moine's + Chronicles of the St. Lawrence_, p.100. It was named by Cartier + in 1535, the Island of the Assumption, having been discovered on + the 15th of August, the festival of the Assumption. Nous auons + nommes l'ysle de l'Assumption.--_Brief Recit_, 1545, D'Avenzac's + ed. p. 9. Alfonse, in his report of his voyage of 1542, calls it + the _Isle de l'Ascension_, probably by mistake. "The Isle of + Ascension is a goodly isle and a goodly champion land, without + any hills, standing all upon white rocks and Alabaster, all + covered with wild beasts, as bears, Luserns, Porkespicks." + _Hakluyt_, Vol. III. p. 292. Of this island De Laet says, "Elle + est nommee el langage des Sauvages _Natiscotec_"--_Hist. du + Nouveau Monde_, a Leyde, 1640, p.42. _Vide also Wyet's Voyage_ in + Hakluyt, Vol. III. p. 241. Laverdière says the Montagnais now + call it _Natascoueh_, which signifies, _where the bear is + caught_. He cites Thevet, who says it is called by the savages, + _Naticousti_, by others _Laisple_. The use of the name Anticosty + by Champlain, now spelled Anticosti, would imply that its + corruption from the original, _Natiscotec_, took place at a very + early date. Or it is possible that Champlain wrote it as he heard + it pronounced by the natives, and his orthography may best + represent the original. + +130. _Gachepé_, so written in the text, subsequently written by the author + _Gaspey_, but now generally _Gaspé_. It is supposed to have been + derived from the Abnaquis word _Katsepi8i_, which means what is + separated from the rest, and to have reference to a remarkable rock, + three miles above Cape Gaspé, separated from the shore by the violence + of the waves, the incident from which it takes its name.--_Vide + Voyages de Champlain_, ed. 1632, p. 91; _Chronicles of the St. + Lawrence_, by J. M. Le Moine, p. 9. + +131. A river flowing into the St. Lawrence from the south in latitude 48 + deg. 52' and in longitude west from Greenwich 67 deg. 32', now known + as the Matane. + +132. For Bic, Champlain has _Pic_, which is probably a typographical error. + It seems probable that Bic is derived from the French word _bicoque_, + which means a place of small consideration, a little paltry town. Near + the site of the ancient Bic, we now have, on modern maps, _Bicoque_ + Rocks, _Bicquette_ Light, _Bic_ Island, _Bic_ Channel, and _Bic_ + Anchorage. As suggested by Laverdière, this appears to be the + identical harbor entered by Jacques Cartier, in 1535, who named if the + Isles of Saint John, because he entered it on the day of the beheading + of St. John, which was the 29th of August. Nous les nommasmes les + Ysleaux sainct Jehan, parce que nous y entrasmes le jour de la + decollation dudict sainct. _Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 11. + Le Jeune speaks of the _Isle du Bic_ in 1635. _Vide Relation des + Jésuites_, p. 19. + +133. _Tadoussac_, or _Tadouchac_, is derived from the word _totouchac_, + which in Montagnais means _breasts_, and Saguenay signifies _water + which springs forth_, from the Montagnais word _saki-nip_.--_Vide + Laverdière in loco_. Tadoussac, or the breasts from which water + springs forth, is naturally suggested by the rocky elevations at the + base of which the Saguenay flows. + +134. _Impetueux_, plainly intended to mean _troublesome_, as may be seen + from the context. + +135. Pine, _pins_. The white pine, _Pinus strobus_, or _Strobus + Americanus_, grows as far north as Newfoundland, and as far south as + Georgia. It was observed by Captain George Weymouth on the Kennebec, + and hence deals afterward imported into England were called _Weymouth + pine_--_Vide Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Picketing, + M.D., Boston, 1879, p. 809. This is probably the species here referred + to by Champlain. Cypress, _Cyprez_. This was probably the American + arbor vitæ. _Thuja occidentalis_, a species which, according to the + Abbé Laverdière, is found in the neighborhood of the Saguenay. + Champlain employed the same word to designate the American savin, or + red cedar. _Juniperus Virginiana_, which he found on Cape Cod--_Vide_ + Vol. II. p. 82. Note 168. + + Fir, _sapins_. The fir may have been the white spruce, _Abies alba_, + or the black spruce, _Abies nigra_, or the balsam fir or Canada + balsam, _Abies balsamea_, or yet the hemlock spruce, _Abies + Canadaisis_. + +136. _St. Matthew's Point_, now known as Point aux Allouettes, or Lack + Point.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p 165, note 292. _All-Devils' Point_, now + called _Pointe aux Vaches_. Both of these points had changed their + names before the publication of Champlain's ed., 1632.--_Vide_ p. 119 + of that edition. The last mentioned was called by Champlain, in 1632, + _pointe aux roches_. Laverdière thinks _ro_ches was a typographical + error, as Sagard, about the same time, writes _vaches_.--_Vide Sagard. + Histoire du Canada_, 1636, Stross. ed., Vol I p. 150. + + We naturally ask why it was called _pointe aux vaches_, or point of + cows. An old French apothegm reads _Le diable est aux vaches_, the + devil is in the cows, for which in English we say, "the devil is to + pay." May not this proverb have suggested _vaches_ as a synonyme of + _diables_? + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FAVORABLE RECEPTION GIVEN TO THE FRENCH BY THE GRAND SAGAMORE OF THE +SAVAGES OF CANADA--THE BANQUETS AND DANCES OF THE LATTER--THEIR WAR WITH +THE IROQUOIS.--THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEIR CANOES AND CABINS ARE MADE, AND +THEIR MODE OF CONSTRUCTION--INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF ST MATTHEW'S +POINT. + +On the 27th, we went to visit the savages at St. Matthew's point, distant a +league from Tadoussac, accompanied by the two savages whom Sieur du Pont +Gravé took to make a report of what they had seen in France, and of the +friendly reception the king had given them. Having landed, we proceeded to +the cabin of their grand Sagamore [137] named _Anadabijou_, whom we found +with some eighty or a hundred of his companions celebrating a _tabagie_, +that is a banquet. He received us very cordially, and according to the +custom of his country, seating us near himself, with all the savages +arranged in rows on both sides of the cabin. One of the savages whom we had +taken with us began to make an address, speaking of the cordial reception +the king had given them, and the good treatment they had received in +France, and saying they were assured that his Majesty was favorably +disposed towards them, and was desirous of peopling their country, and of +making peace with their enemies, the Iroquois, or of sending forces to +conquer them. He also told them of the handsome manors, palaces, and houses +they had seen, and of the inhabitants and our mode of living. He was +listened to with the greatest possible silence. Now, after he had finished +his address, the grand Sagamore, Anadabijou, who had listened to it +attentively, proceeded to take some tobacco, and give it to Sieur du Pont +Gravé of St. Malo, myself, and some other Sagamores, who were near him. +After a long smoke, he began to make his address to all, speaking with +gravity, stopping at times a little, and then resuming and saying, that +they truly ought to be very glad in having his Majesty for a great friend. +They all answered with one voice, _Ho, ho, ho_, that is to say _yes, yes_. +He continuing his address said that he should be very glad to have his +Majesty people their land, and make war upon their enemies; that there was +no nation upon earth to which they were more kindly disposed than to the +French. finally he gave them all to understand the advantage and profit +they could receive from his Majesty. After he had finished his address, we +went out of his cabin, and they began to celebrate their _tabagie_ or +banquet, at which they have elk's meat, which is similar to beef, also that +of the bear, seal and beaver, these being their ordinary meats, including +also quantities of fowl. They had eight or ten boilers full of meats, in +the middle of this cabin, separated some six feet from each other, each one +having its own fire. They were seated on both sides, as I stated before, +each one having his porringer made of bark. When the meat is cooked, some +one distributes to each his portion in his porringer, when they eat in a +very filthy manner. For when their hands are covered with fat, they rub +them on their heads or on the hair of their dogs of which they have large +numbers for hunting. Before their meat was cooked, one of them arose, took +a dog and hopped around these boilers from one end of the cabin to the +other. Arriving in front of the great Sagamore, he threw his dog violently +to the ground, when all with one voice exclaimed, _Ho, ho, ho_, after which +he went back to his place. Instantly another arose and did the same, which +performance was continued until the meat was cooked. Now after they had +finished their _tabagie_, they began to dance, taking the heads of their +enemies, which were slung on their backs, as a sign of joy. One or two of +them sing, keeping time with their hands, which they strike on their knees: +sometimes they stop, exclaiming, _Ho, ho, ho_, when they begin dancing +again, puffing like a man out of breath. They were having this celebration +in honor of the victory they had obtained over the Iroquois, several +hundred of whom they had killed, whose heads they had cut off and had with +them to contribute to the pomp of their festivity. Three nations had +engaged in the war, the Etechemins, Algonquins, and Montagnais. [138] +These, to the number of a thousand, proceeded to make war upon the +Iroquois, whom they encountered at the mouth of the river of the Iroquois, +and of whom they killed a hundred. They carry on war only by surprising +their enemies; for they would not dare to do so otherwise, and fear too +much the Iroquois, who are more numerous than the Montagnais, Etechemins, +and Algonquins. + +On the 28th of this month they came and erected cabins at the harbor of +Tadoussac, where our vessel was. At daybreak their grand Sagamore came out +from his cabin and went about all the others, crying out to them in a loud +voice to break camp to go to Tadoussac, where their good friends were. Each +one immediately took down his cabin in an incredibly short time, and the +great captain was the first to take his canoe and carry it to the water, +where he embarked his wife and children and a quantity of furs. Thus were +launched nearly two hundred canoes, which go wonderfully fast; for, +although our shallop was well manned, yet they went faster than ourselves. +Two only do the work of propelling the boat, a man and a woman. Their +canoes are some eight or nine feet long, and a foot or a foot and a half +broad in the middle, growing narrower towards the two ends. They are very +liable to turn over, if one does not understand how to manage them, for +they are made of the bark of trees called _bouille_, [139] strengthened on +the inside by little ribs of wood strongly and neatly made. They are so +light that a man can easily carry one, and each canoe can carry the weight +of a pipe. When they wish to go overland to some river where they have +business, they carry their canoes with them. + +Their cabins are low and made like tents, being covered with the same kind +of bark as that before mentioned. The whole top for the space of about a +foot they leave uncovered, whence the light enters; and they make a number +of fires directly in the middle of the cabin, in which there are sometimes +ten families at once. They sleep on skins, all together, and their dogs +with them. [140] + +They were in number a thousand persons, men, women and children. The place +at St. Matthew's Point, where they were first encamped, is very pleasant. +They were at the foot of a small slope covered with trees, firs and +cypresses. At St. Matthew's Point there is a small level place, which is +seen at a great distance. On the top of this hill there is a level tract of +land, a league long, half a league broad, covered with trees. The soil is +very sandy, and contains good pasturage. Elsewhere there are only rocky +mountains, which are very barren. The tide rises about this slope, but at +low water leaves it dry for a full half league out. + +ENDNOTES: + +137. _Sagamo_, thus written in the French According to Laflèche, as cited + by Laverdière, this word, in the Montagnais language, is derived from + _tchi_, great and _okimau_, chief, and consequently signifies the + Great Chief. + +138. The Etechemins, may be said in general terms to have occupied the + territory from St. John, N. B., to Mount Desert Island, in Maine, and + perhaps still further west, but not south of Saco. The Algonquins here + referred to were those who dwelt on the Ottawa River. The Montagnais + occupied the region on both sides of the Saguenay, having their + trading centre at Tadoussac. War had been carried on for a period we + know not how long, perhaps for several centuries, between these allied + tribes and the Iroquois. + +139. _Bouille_ for _bouleau_, the birch-tree. _Betula papyracea_, popularly + known as the paper or canoe birch. It is a large tree, the bark white, + and splitting into thin layers. It is common in New England, and far + to the north The white birch, _Betula alba_, of Europe and Northern + Asia, is used for boat-building at the present day.--_Vide + Chronological History of Plants_, by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, + 1879, p. 134. + +140. The dog was the only domestic animal found among the aborigines of + this country. "The Australians," says Dr. Pickering, "appear to be the + only considerable portion of mankind destitute of the companionship of + the dog. The American tribes, from the Arctic Sea to Cape Horn, had + the companionship of the dog, and certain remarkable breeds had been + developed before the visit of Columbus" (F. Columbus 25); further, + according to Coues, the cross between the coyote and female dog is + regularly procured by our northwestern tribes, and, according to Gabb, + "dogs one-fourth coyote are pointed out; the fact therefore seems + established that the coyote or American barking wolfe, _Canis + latrans_, is the dog in its original wild state."--_Vide Chronological + History of Plants_, etc., by Charles Pickering, M.D., Boston, 1879, p. + 20. + + "It was believed by some for a length of time that the wild dog was of + recent introduction to Australia: this is not so."--_Vide Aborigines + of Victoria_, by R. Brough Smyth, London, 1878, Vol. 1. p. 149. The + bones of the wild dog have recently been discovered in Australia, at a + depth of excavation, and in circumstances, which prove that his + existence there antedates the introduction of any species of the dog + by Europeans. The Australians appear, therefore, to be no exception to + the universal companionship of the dog with man. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE REJOICINGS OF THE INDIANS AFTER OBTAINING A VICTORY OVER THEIR +ENEMIES--THEIR DISPOSITION, ENDURANCE OF HUNGER, AND MALICIOUSNESS.--THEIR +BELIEFS AND FALSE OPINIONS, COMMUNICATION WITH EVIL SPIRITS--THEIR +GARMENTS, AND HOW THEY WALK ON THE SNOW--THEIR MANNER OF MARRIAGE, AND THE +INTERMENT OF THEIR DEAD. + +On the 9th of June the savages proceeded to have a rejoicing all together, +and to celebrate their _tabagie_, which I have before described, and to +dance, in honor of their victory over their enemies. Now, after they had +feasted well, the Algonquins, one of the three nations, left their cabins +and went by themselves to a public place. Here they arranged all their +wives and daughters by the side of each other, and took position themselves +behind them, all singing in the manner I have described before. Suddenly +all the wives and daughters proceeded to throw off their robes of skins, +presenting themselves stark naked, and exposing their sexual parts. But +they were adorned with _matachiats_, that is beads and braided strings, +made of porcupine quills, which they dye in various colors. After finishing +their songs, they all said together, _Ho, ho, ho:_ at the same instant all +the wives and daughters covered themselves with their robes, which were at +their feet. Then, after stopping a short time, all suddenly beginning to +sing throw off their robes as before. They do not stir from their position +while dancing, and make various gestures and movements of the body, lifting +one foot and then the other, at the same time striking upon the ground. +Now, during the performance of this dance, the Sagamore of the Algonquins, +named _Besouat_, was seated before these wives and daughters, between two +sticks, on which were hung the heads of their enemies. Sometimes he arose +and went haranguing, and saying to the Montagnais and Etechemins: "Look! +how we rejoice in the victory that we have obtained over our enemies; you +must do the same, so that we may be satisfied." Then all said together, +_Ho, ho, ho_. After returning to his position, the grand Sagamore together +with all his companions removed their robes, making themselves stark naked +except their sexual parts, which are covered with a small piece of skin. +Each one took what seemed good to him, as _matachiats_, hatchets, swords, +kettles, fat, elk flesh, seal, in a word each one had a present, which they +proceeded to give to the Algonquins. After all these ceremonies, the dance +ceased, and the Algonquins, men and women, carried their presents into +their cabins. Then two of the most agile men of each nation were taken, +whom they caused to run, and he who was the fastest in the race, received a +present. + +All these people have a very cheerful disposition, laughing often; yet at +the same time they are somewhat phlegmatic. They talk very deliberately, as +if desiring to make themselves well understood, and stopping suddenly, they +reflect for a long time, when they resume their discourse. This is their +usual manner at their harangues in council, where only the leading men, the +elders, are present, the women and children not attending at all. + +All these people suffer so much sometimes from hunger, on account of the +severe cold and snow, when the animals and fowl on which they live go away +to warmer countries, that they are almost constrained to eat one another. I +am of opinion that if one were to teach them how to live, and instruct them +in the cultivation of the soil and in other respects, they would learn very +easily, for I can testify that many of them have good judgment and respond +very appropriately to whatever question may be put to them. [141] They have +the vices of taking revenge and of lying badly, and are people in whom it +is not well to put much confidence, except with caution and with force at +hand. They promise well, but keep their word badly. + +Most of them have no law, so far as I have been able to observe or learn +from the great Sagamore, who told me that they really believed there was a +God, who created all things. Whereupon I said to him: that, "Since they +believed in one sole God, how had he placed them in the world, and whence +was their origin." He replied: that, "After God had made all things, he +took a large number of arrows, and put them in the ground; whence sprang +men and women, who had been multiplying in the world up to the present +time, and that this was their origin." I answered that what he said was +false, but that there really was one only God, who had created all things +upon earth and in the heavens. Seeing all these things so perfect, but that +there was no one to govern here on earth, he took clay from the ground, out +of which he created Adam our first father. While Adam was sleeping, God +took a rib from his side, from which he formed Eve, whom he gave to him as +a companion, and, I told him, that it was true that they and ourselves had +our origin in this manner, and not from arrows, as they suppose. He said +nothing, except that he acknowledged what I said, rather than what he had +asserted. I asked him also if he did not believe that there was more than +one only God. He told me their belief was that there was a God, a Son, a +Mother, and the Sun, making four; that God, however, was above all, that +the Son and the Sun were good, since they received good things from them; +but the Mother, he said, was worthless, and ate them up; and the Father not +very good. I remonstrated with him on his error, and contrasted it with our +faith, in which he put some little confidence. I asked him if they had +never seen God, nor heard from their ancestors that God had come into the +world. He said that they had never seen him; but that formerly there were +five men who went towards the setting sun, who met God, who asked them: +"Where are you going?" they answered: "We are going in search of our +living." God replied to them: "You will find it here." They went on, +without paying attention to what God had said to them, when he took a stone +and touched two of them with it, whereupon they were changed to stones; and +he said again to the three others: "Where are you going?" They answered as +before, and God said to them again: "Go no farther, you will find it here." +And seeing that nothing came to them, they went on; when God took two +sticks, with which he touched the two first, whereupon they were +transformed into sticks, when the fifth one stopped, not wishing to go +farther. And God asked him again: "Where are you going?" "I am going in +search of my living." "Stay and thou shalt find it." He staid without +advancing farther, and God gave him some meat, which he ate. After making +good cheer, he returned to the other savages, and related to them all the +above. + +He told me also that another time there was a man who had a large quantity +of tobacco (a plant from which they obtain what they smoke), and that God +came to this man, and asked him where his pipe was. The man took his pipe, +and gave it to God, who smoked much. After smoking to his satisfaction, God +broke the pipe into many pieces, and the man asked: "Why hast thou broken +my pipe? thou seest in truth that I have not another." Then God took one +that he had, and gave it to him, saying: "Here is one that I will give you, +take it to your great Sagamore; let him keep it, and if he keep it well, he +will not want for any thing whatever, neither he nor all his companions." +The man took the pipe, and gave it to his great Sagamore; and while he kept +it, the savages were in want of nothing whatever: but he said that +afterwards the grand Sagamore lost this pipe, which was the cause of the +severe famines they sometimes have. I asked him if he believed all that; he +said yes, and that it was the truth. Now I think that this is the reason +why they say that God is not very good. But I replied, "that God was in all +respects good, and that it was doubtless the Devil who had manifested +himself to those men, and that if they would believe as we did in God they +would not want for what they had need of; that the sun which they saw, the +moon and the stars, had been created by this great God, who made heaven and +earth, but that they have no power except that which God has given them; +that we believe in this great God, who by His goodness had sent us His dear +Son who, being conceived of the Holy Spirit, was clothed with human flesh +in the womb of the Virgin Mary, lived thirty years on earth, doing an +infinitude of miracles, raising the dead, healing the sick, driving out +devils, giving sight to the blind, teaching men the will of God his Father, +that they might serve, honor and worship Him, shed his blood, suffered and +died for us, and our sins, and ransomed the human race, that, being buried, +he rose again, descended into hell, and ascended into heaven, where he is +seated on the right hand of God his Father." [142] I told him that this was +the faith of all Christians who believe in the Father, Son, and Holy +Spirit, that these, nevertheless, are not three Gods, but one the same and +only God, and a trinity in which there is no before nor after, no greater +nor smaller; that the Virgin Mary, mother of the Son of God, and all the +men and women who have lived in this world doing the commandments of God, +and enduring martyrdom for his name, and who by the permission of God have +done miracles, and are saints in heaven in his paradise, are all of them +praying this Great Divine Majesty to pardon us our errors and sins which we +commit against His law and commandments. And thus, by the prayers of the +saints in heaven and by our own prayers to his Divine Majesty, He gives +what we have need of, and the devil has no power over us and can do us no +harm. I told them that if they had this belief, they would be like us, and +that the devil could no longer do them any harm, and that they would not +lack what they had need of. + +Then this Sagamore replied to me that he acknowledged what I said. I asked +him what ceremonies they were accustomed to in praying to their God. He +told me that they were not accustomed to any ceremonies, but that each +prayed in his heart as he desired. This is why I believe that they have no +law, not knowing what it is to worship and pray to God, and living, the +most of them, like brute beasts. But I think that they would speedily +become good Christians, if people were to colonize their country, of which +most of them were desirous. + +There are some savages among them whom they call _Pilotoua_, [143] who have +personal communications with the devil. Such an one tells them what they +are to do, not only in regard to war, but other things; and if he should +command them to execute any undertaking, as to kill a Frenchman or one of +their own nation, they would obey his command at once. + +They believe, also, that all dreams which they have are real; and many of +them, indeed, say that they have seen in dreams things which come to pass +or will come to pass. But, to tell the truth in the matter, these are +visions of the devil, who deceives and misleads them. This is all that I +have been able to learn from them in regard to their matters of belief, +which is of a low, animal nature. + +All these people are well proportioned in body, without any deformity, and +are also agile. The women are well-shaped, full and plump, and of a swarthy +complexion, on account of the large amount of a certain pigment with which +they rub themselves, and which gives them an olive color. They are clothed +in skins, one part of their body being covered and the other left +uncovered. In winter they provide for their whole body, for they are +dressed in good furs, as those of the elk, otter, beaver, seal, stag, and +hind, which they have in large quantities. In winter, when the snows are +heavy, they make a sort of _raquette_ [144] two or three times as large as +those in France. These they attach to their feet, and thus walk upon the +snow without sinking in; for without them, they could not hunt or make +their way in many places. + +Their manner of marriage is as follows: When a girl attains the age of +fourteen or fifteen years, she may have several suitors and friends, and +keep company with such as she pleases. At the end of some five or six years +she may choose that one to whom her fancy inclines as her husband, and they +will live together until the end of their life, unless, after living +together a certain period, they fail to have children, when the husband is +at liberty to divorce himself and take another wife, on the ground that his +own is of no worth. Accordingly, the girls are more free than the wives; +yet as soon as they are married they are chaste, and their husbands are for +the most part jealous, and give presents to the father or relatives of the +girl whom they marry. This is the manner of marriage, and conduct in the +same. + +In regard to their interments, when a man or woman dies, they make a +trench, in which they put all their property, as kettles, furs, axes, bows +and arrows, robes, and other things. Then they put the body in the trench, +and cover it with earth, laying on top many large pieces of wood, and +erecting over all a piece of wood painted red on the upper part. They +believe in the immortality of the soul, and say that when they die +themselves, they shall go to rejoice with their relatives and friends in +other lands. + +ENDNOTES: + +141. _Vide_ Vol. II of this work, p 190. + +142. This summary of the Christian faith is nearly in the words of the + Apostles Creed. + +143. On _Pilotoua_ or _Pilotois, vide_ Vol. II. note 341. + +144. _Une manière de raquette_. The snow-shoe, which much resembles the + racket or battledore, an instrument used for striking the ball in the + game of tennis. This name was given for the want of one more specific. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE RIVER SAGUENAY AND ITS SOURCE. + +On the 11th of June, I went some twelve or fifteen leagues up the Saguenay, +which is a fine river, of remarkable depth. For I think, judging from what +I have heard in regard to its source, that it comes from a very high place, +whence a torrent of water descends with great impetuosity. But the water +which proceeds thence is not capable of producing such a river as this, +which, however, only extends from this torrent, where the first fall is, to +the harbor Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay, a distance of some +forty-five or fifty leagues, it being a good league and a half broad at the +widest place, and a quarter of a league at the narrowest; for which reason +there is a strong current. All the country, so far as I saw it, consisted +only of rocky mountains, mostly covered with fir, cypress, and birch; a +very unattractive region in which I did not find a level tract of land +either on the one side or the other. There are some islands in the river, +which are high and sandy. In a word, these are real deserts, uninhabitable +for animals or birds. For I can testify that when I went hunting in places +which seemed to me the most attractive, I found nothing whatever but little +birds, like nightingales and swallows, which come only in summer, as I +think, on account of the excessive cold there, this river coming from the +northwest. + +They told me that, after passing the first fall, whence this torrent comes, +they pass eight other falls, when they go a day's journey without finding +any; then they pass ten other falls and enter a lake [145] which it +requires two days to cross, they being able to make easily from twelve to +fifteen leagues a day. At the other extremity of the lake is found a people +who live in cabins. Then you enter three other rivers, up each of which the +distance is a journey of some three or four days. At the extremity of these +rivers are two or three bodies of water, like lakes, in which the Saguenay +has its source, from which to Tadoussac is a journey of ten days in their +canoes. There is a large number of cabins on the border of these rivers, +occupied by other tribes which come from the north to exchange with the +Montagnais their beaver and marten skins for articles of merchandise, which +the French vessels furnish to the Montagnais. These savages from the north +say that they live within sight of a sea which is salt. If this is the +case, I think that it is a gulf of that sea which flows from the north into +the interior, and in fact it cannot be otherwise. [146] This is what I have +learned in regard to the River Saguenay. + +ENDNOTES: + +145. This was Lake St John. This description is given nearly _verbatim_ in + Vol. II. p. 169.--_Vide_ notes in the same volume, 294, 295. 146. + Champlain appears to have obtained from the Indians a very correct + idea not only of the existence but of the character of Hudson's Bay, + although that bay was not discovered by Hudson till about seven years + later than this. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +DEPARTURE FROM TADOUSSAC FOR THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF HARE ISLAND, ISLE DU +COUDRE, ISLE D'ORLÉANS, AND SEVERAL OTHERS--OUR ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC + +On Wednesday, the eighteenth day of June, we set out from Tadoussac for the +Fall. [147] We passed near an island called Hare Island, [148] about two +leagues, from the northern shore and some seven leagues from Tadoussac and +five leagues from the southern shore. From Hare Island we proceeded along +the northern coast about half a league, to a point extending out into the +water, where one must keep out farther. This point is one league [149] from +an island called _Isle au Coudre_, about two leagues wide, the distance +from which to the northern shore is a league. This island has a pretty even +surface, growing narrower towards the two ends. At the western end there +are meadows and rocky points, which extend out some distance into the +river. This island is very pleasant on account of the woods surrounding it. +It has a great deal of slate-rock, and the soil is very gravelly; at its +extremity there is a rock extending half a league out into the water. We +went to the north of this island, [150] which is twelve leagues distant +from Hare Island. + +On the Thursday following, we set out from here and came to anchor in a +dangerous cove on the northern shore, where there are some meadows and a +little river, [151] and where the savages sometimes erect their cabins. The +same day, continuing to coast along on the northern shore, we were obliged +by contrary winds to put in at a place where there were many very dangerous +rocks and localities. Here we stayed three days, waiting for fair weather. +Both the northern and Southern shores here are very mountainous, resembling +in general those of the Saguenay. + +On Sunday, the twenty-second, we set out for the Island of Orleans, [152] +in the neighborhood of which are many islands on the southern shore. These +are low and covered with trees, Seem to be very pleasant, and, so far as I +could judge, some of them are one or two leagues and others half a league +in length. About these islands there are only rocks and shallows, so that +the passage is very dangerous. + +They are distant some two leagues from the mainland on the south. Thence we +coasted along the Island of Orleans on the south. This is distant a league +from the mainland on the north, is very pleasant and level, and eight +leagues long. The coast on the south is low for some two leagues inland; +the country begins to be low at this island which is perhaps two leagues +distant from the southern shore. It is very dangerous passing on the +northern shore, on account of the sand-banks and rocks between the island +and mainland, and it is almost entirely dry here at low tide. + +At the end of this island I saw a torrent of water [153] which descended +from a high elevation on the River of Canada. Upon this elevation the land +is uniform and pleasant, although in the interior high mountains are seen +some twenty or twenty-five leagues distant, and near the first fall of the +Saguenay. + +We came to anchor at Quebec, a narrow passage in the River of Canada, which +is here some three hundred paces broad. [154] There is, on the northern +side of this passage, a very high elevation, which falls off on two sides. +Elsewhere the country is uniform and fine, and there are good tracts full +of trees, as oaks, cypresses, birches, firs, and aspens, also wild +fruit-trees and vines which, if they were cultivated, would, in my opinion, +be as good as our own. Along the shore of Quebec, there are diamonds in +some slate-rocks, which are better than those of Alençon. From Quebec to +Hare Island is a distance of twenty-nine leagues. + +ENDNOTES: + +147. _Saut de St Louis_, about three leagues above Montreal. + +148. _Isle au Lieure_ Hare Island, so named by Cartier from the great + number of hares which he found there. Le soir feusmes à ladicte ysle, + ou trouuasmes grand nombre de lieures, desquelz eusmes quantité: & par + ce la nommasmes l'ysle es lieures.--_Brief Récit_, par Jacques + Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed p. 45. + + The distances are here overestimated. From Hare Island to the northern + shore the distance is four nautical miles, and to the southern six. + +149. The point nearest to Hare Island is Cape Salmon, which is about six + geographical miles from the Isle au Coudres, and we should here + correct the error by reading not one but two leagues. The author did + not probably intend to be exact. + +150. _Isle au Coudre.--Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, + D'Avezac ed. p. 44; also Vol. II. of this work, p. 172. Charlevoix + says, whether from tradition or on good authority we know not, that + "in 1663 an earthquake rooted up a mountain, and threw it upon the + Isle au Coudres, which made it one-half larger than before."-- + _Letters to the Duchess of Lesdiguieres_, London, 1763, p. 15. + +151. This was probably about two leagues from the Isle aux Coudres, where + is a small stream which still bears the name La Petite Rivière. + +152. _Isle d'Orléans.--Vide_ Vol. II. p. 173. + +153. On Champlain's map of the harbor of Quebec he calls this "torrent" le + grand saut de Montmorency, the grand fall of Montmorency. It was named + by Champlain himself, and in honor of the "noble, high, and powerful + Charles de Montmorency," to whom the journal of this voyage is + dedicated. The stream is shallow, "in some places," Charlevoix says, + "not more than ankle deep." The grandeur or impressiveness of the + fall, if either of these qualities can be attributed to it, arises + from its height and not from the volume of water--_Vide_ ed. 1632, p. + 123. On Bellm's Atlas Maritime, 1764, its height is put down at + _sixty-five feet_. Bayfield's Chart more correctly says 251 feet above + high water spring tides--_Vide_ Vol. II of this work, note 308. + +154. _Nous vinsmmes mouiller l'ancre à Quebec, qui est vn destroict de + laditt riuiere de Canadas_. These words very clearly define the + meaning of Quebec, which is an Indian word, signifying a narrowing or + a contraction.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 175, note 309. The breadth of the + river at this point is underestimated It is not far from 1320 feet, or + three-quarters of a mile. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +OF THE POINT ST. CROIX AND THE RIVER BATISCAN.--OF THE RIVERS, ROCKS, +ISLANDS, LANDS, TREES, FRUITS, VINES, AND FINE COUNTRY BETWEEN QUEBEC AND +THE TROIS RIVIÈRES. + +On Monday, the 23d of this month, we set out from Quebec, where the river +begins to widen, sometimes to the extent of a league, then a league and a +half or two leagues at most. The country grows finer and finer; it is +everywhere low, without rocks for the most part. The northern shore is +covered with rocks and sand-banks; it is necessary to go along the southern +one about half a league from the shore. There are some small rivers, not +navigable, except for the canoes of the savages, and in which there are a +great many falls. We came to anchor at St. Croix, fifteen leagues distant +from Quebec; a low point rising up on both sides. [155] The country is fine +and level, the soil being the best that I had seen, with extensive woods, +containing, however, but little fir and cypress. There are found there in +large numbers vines, pears, hazel-nuts, cherries, red and green currants, +and certain little radishes of the size of a small nut, resembling truffles +in taste, which are very good when roasted or boiled. All this soil is +black, without any rocks, excepting that there a large quantity of slate. +The soil is very soft, and, if well cultivated, would be very productive. + +On the north shore there is a river called Batiscan, [156] extending a +great distance into the interior, along which the Algonquins sometimes +come. On the same shore there is another river, [157] three leagues below +St. Croix, which was as far as Jacques Cartier went up the river at the +time of his explorations. [158] The above-mentioned river is pleasant, +extending a considerable distance inland. All this northern shore is very +even and pleasing. + +On Wednesday, [159] the 24th, we set out from St. Croix, where we had +stayed over a tide and a half in order to proceed the next day by daylight, +for this is a peculiar place on account of the great number of rocks in the +river, which is almost entirely dry at low tide; but at half-flood one can +begin to advance without difficulty, although it is necessary to keep a +good watch, lead in hand. The tide rises here nearly three fathoms and a +half. + +The farther we advanced, the finer the country became. After going some +five leagues and a half, we came to anchor on the northern shore. On the +Wednesday following, we set out from this place, where the country is +flatter than the preceding and heavily wooded, as at St. Croix. We passed +near a small island covered with vines, and came to anchor on the southern +shore, near a little elevation, upon ascending which we found a level +country. There is another small island three leagues from St. Croix, near +the southern shore. [160] We set out on the following Thursday from this +elevation, and passed by a little island near the northern shore. Here I +landed at six or more small rivers, up two of which boats can go for a +considerable distance. Another is some three hundred feet broad, with some +islands at its mouth. It extends far into the interior, and is the deepest +of all. [161] These rivers are very pleasant, their shores being covered +with trees which resemble nut-trees, and have the same odor; but, as I saw +no fruit, I am inclined to doubt. The savages told me that they bear fruit +like our own. + +Advancing still farther, we came to an island called St. Éloi; [162] also +another little island very near the northern shore. We passed between this +island and the northern shore, the distance from one to the other being +some hundred and fifty feet; that from the same island to the southern +shore, a league and a half. We passed also near a river large enough for +canoes. All the northern shore is very good, and one can sail along there +without obstruction; but he should keep the lead in hand in order to avoid +certain points. All this shore along which we coasted consists of shifting +sands, but a short distance in the interior the land is good. + +The Friday following, we set out from this island, and continued to coast +along the northern shore very near the land, which is low and abundant in +trees of good quality as far as the Trois Rivières. Here the temperature +begins to be somewhat different from that of St. Croix, since the trees are +more forward here than in any other place that I had yet seen. From the +Trois Rivières to St. Croix the distance is fifteen leagues. In this river +[163] there are six islands, three of which are very small, the others +being from five to six hundred feet long, very pleasant, and fertile so far +as their small extent goes. There is one of these in the centre of the +above-mentioned river, confronting the River of Canada, and commanding a +view of the others, which are distant from the land from four to five +hundred feet on both sides. It is high on the southern side, but lower +somewhat on the northern. This would be, in my judgment, a favorable place +in which to make a settlement, and it could be easily fortified, for its +situation is strong of itself, and it is near a large lake which is only +some four leagues distant. This river extends close to the River Saguenay, +according to the report of the savages, who go nearly a hundred leagues +northward, pass numerous falls, go overland some five or six leagues, enter +a lake from which principally the Saguenay has its source, and thence go to +Tadoussac. [164] I think, likewise, that the settlement of the Trois +Rivières would be a boon for the freedom of some tribes, who dare not come +this way in consequence of their enemies, the Iroquois, who occupy the +entire borders of the River of Canada; but, if it were settled, these +Iroquois and other savages could be made friendly, or, at least, under the +protection of this settlement, these savages would come freely without fear +or danger, the Trois Rivières being a place of passage. All the land that I +saw on the northern shore is sandy. We ascended this river for about a +league, not being able to proceed farther on account of the strong current. +We continued on in a skiff, for the sake of observation, but had not gone +more than a league when we encountered a very narrow fall, about twelve +feet wide, on account of which we could not go farther. All the country +that I saw on the borders of this river becomes constantly more +mountainous, and contains a great many firs and cypresses, but few trees of +other kinds. + +ENDNOTES: + +155. The Point of St. Croix, where they anchored, must have been what is + now known as Point Platon. Champlain's distances are rough estimates, + made under very unfavorable circumstances, and far from accurate. + Point Platon is about thirty-five miles from Quebec. + +156. Champlain does not mention the rivers precisely in their order. On his + map of 1612, he has _Contrée de Bassquan_ on the west of Trois + Rivières. The river Batiscan empties into the St. Lawrence about four + miles west of the St. Anne--_Vide Atlas Maritime_, by Bellin, 1764; + _Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +157. River Jacques Cartier, which is in fact about five miles east of Point + Platon. + +158. Jacques Cartier did, in fact, ascend the St. Lawrence as far as + Hochelaga, or Montreal. The Abbé Laverdière suggests that Champlain + had not at this time seen the reports of Cartier. Had he seen them he + would hardly have made this statement. Pont Gravé had been here + several times, and may have been Champlain's incorrect informant. + _Vide Laverdière in loco_. + +159. Read Tuesday. + +160. Richelieu Island, so called by the French, as early as 1635, nearly + opposite Dechambeau Point.--_Vide Laurie's Chart_. It was called St + Croix up to 1633. _Laverdière in loco_ The Indians called it _Ka + ouapassiniskakhi_.--_Jésuit Relations_, 1635, p. 13. + +161. This river is now known as the Sainte Anne. Champlain says they named + it _Rivière Saincte Marie_--_Vide_ Quebec ed. Tome III. p. 175; Vol. + II. p 201 of this work. + +162. An inconsiderable island near Batiscan, not laid down on the charts. + +163. The St. Maurice, anciently known as _Trois Rivièrs_, because two + islands in its mouth divide it into three channels. Its Indian name, + according to Père Le Jeune, was _Metaberoutin_. It appears to be the + same river mentioned by Cartier in his second voyage, which he + explored and reported as shallow and of no importance. He found in it + four small islands, which may afterward have been subdivided into six. + He named it _La Riuiere die Fouez.--Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, + D'Avezac ed. p. 28. _Vide Relations des Jésuites_, 1635, p. 13. + +164. An eastern branch of the St Maurice River rises in a small lake, from + which Lake St. John, which is an affluent of the Saguenay, may be + reached by a land portage of not more than five or six leagues. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF A LAKE--OF THE RIVERS THAT FLOW INTO IT, AND +THE ISLANDS IT CONTAINS.--CHARACTER OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--OF THE +RIVER OF THE IROQUOIS AND THE FORTRESS OF THE SAVAGES WHO MAKE WAR UPON +THEM. + +On the Saturday following, we set out from the Trois Rivières, and came to +anchor at a lake four leagues distant. All this region from the Trois +Rivières to the entrance to the lake is low and on a level with the water, +though somewhat higher on the south side. The land is very good and the +pleasantest yet seen by us. The woods are very open, so that one could +easily make his way through them. + +The next day, the 29th of June, [165] we entered the lake, which is some +fifteen leagues long and seven or eight wide. [166] About a league from its +entrance, and on the south side, is a river [167] of considerable size and +extending into the interior some sixty or eighty leagues. Farther on, on +the same side, there is another small river, extending about two leagues +inland, and, far in, another little lake, which has a length of perhaps +three or four leagues. [168] On the northern shore, where the land appears +very high, you can see for some twenty leagues; but the mountains grow +gradually smaller towards the west, which has the appearance of being a +flat region. The savages say that on these mountains the land is for the +most part poor. The lake above mentioned is some three fathoms deep where +we passed, which was nearly in the middle. Its longitudinal direction is +from east to west, and its lateral one from north to south. I think that it +must contain good fish, and such varieties as we have at home. We passed +through it this day, and came to anchor about two leagues up the river, +which extends its course farther on, at the entrance to which there are +thirty little islands. [169] From what I could observe, some are two +leagues in extent, others a league and a half, and some less. They contain +numerous nut-trees, which are but little different from our own, and, as I +am inclined to think, the nuts are good in their season. I saw a great many +of them under the trees, which were of two kinds, some small, and others an +inch long; but they were decayed. There are also a great many vines on the +shores of these islands, most of which, however, when the waters are high, +are submerged. The country here is superior to any I have yet seen. + +The last day of June, we set out from here and went to the entrance of the +River of the Iroquois, [170] where the savages were encamped and fortified +who were on their way to make war with the former. [171] Their fortress is +made of a large number of stakes closely pressed against each other. It +borders on one side on the shore of the great river, on the other on that +of the River of the Iroquois. Their canoes are drawn up by the side of each +other on the shore, so that they may be able to flee quickly in case of a +surprise from the Iroquois; for their fortress is covered with oak bark, +and serves only to give them time to take to their boats. + +We went up the River of the Iroquois some five or six leagues, but, because +of the strong current, could not proceed farther in our barque, which we +were also unable to drag overland, on account of the large number of trees +on the shore. Finding that we could not proceed farther, we took our skiff +to see if the current were less strong above; but, on advancing some two +leagues, we found it still stronger, and were unable to go any farther. +[172] As we could do nothing else, we returned in our barque. This entire +river is some three to four hundred paces broad, and very unobstructed. We +saw there five islands, distant from each other a quarter or half a league, +or at most a league, one of which, the nearest, is a league long, the +others being very small. All this country is heavily wooded and low, like +that which I had before seen; but there are more firs and cypresses than in +other places. The soil is good, although a little sandy. The direction of +this river is about southwest. [173] + +The savages say that some fifteen leagues from where we had been there is a +fall [174] of great length, around which they carry their canoes about a +quarter of a league, when they enter a lake, at the entrance to which there +are three islands, with others farther in. It may be some forty or fifty +leagues long and some twenty-five wide, into which as many as ten rivers +flow, up which canoes can go for a considerable distance. [175] Then, at +the other end of this lake, there is another fall, when another lake is +entered, of the same size as the former, [176] at the extremity of which +the Iroquois are encamped. They say also that there is a river [177] +extending to the coast of Florida, a distance of perhaps some hundred or +hundred and forty leagues from the latter lake. All the country of the +Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, but has a very good soil, the climate +being moderate, without much winter. + +ENDNOTES: + +165. They entered the lake on St. Peter's day, the 29th of June, and, for + this reason doubtless, it was subsequently named Lake St. Peter, which + name it still retains. It was at first called Lake Angouleme--_Vide_ + marginal note in Hakluyt. Vol. III. p. 271. Laverdière cites Thévet to + the same effect. + +166. From the point at which the river flows into the lake to its exit, the + distance is about twenty-seven miles and its width about seven miles. + Champlain's distances, founded upon rough estimates made on a first + voyage of difficult navigation, are exceedingly inaccurate, and, + independent of other data, cannot be relied upon for the + identification of localities. + +167. The author appears to have confused the relative situations of the two + rivers here mentioned. The smaller one should, we think, have been + mentioned first. The larger one was plainly the St Francis, and the + smaller one the Nicolette. + +168. This would seem to be the _Baie la Vallure_, at the southwestern + extremity of Lake St. Peter. + +169. The author here refers to the islands at the western extremity of Lake + St. Peter, which are very numerous. On Charlevoix's Carte de la + Rivière de Richelieu they are called _Isles de Richelieu_. The more + prominent are Monk Island, Isle de Grace, Bear Island. Isle St Ignace, + and Isle du Pas. Champlain refers to these islands again in 1609, with + perhaps a fuller description--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 206. + +170. The Richelieu, flowing from Lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence. For + description of this river, see Vol. II. p. 210, note 337. In 1535 the + Indians at Montreal pointed out this river as leading to Florida.-- + _Vide Brief Récit_, par Jacques Cartier, 1545, D'Avezac ed. + +171. The Hurons, Algonquins, and Montagnais were at war with the Iroquois, + and the savages assembled here were composed of some or all of these + tribes. + +172. The rapids in the river here were too strong for the French barque, or + even the skiff, but were not difficult to pass with the Indian canoe, + as was fully proved in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 207 of this work. + +173. The course of the Richelieu is nearly from the south to the north. + +174. The rapids of Chambly. + +175. Lake Champlain, discovered by him in 1609.--_Vide_ Vol. II. ch. ix. + +176. Lake George. Champlain either did not comprehend his Indian + informants, or they greatly exaggerated the comparative size of this + lake. + +177. The Hudson River--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. 218, note 347. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ARRIVAL AT THE FALL.--DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME AND ITS REMARKABLE +CHARACTER.--REPORTS OF THE SAVAGES IN REGARD TO THE END OF THE GREAT RIVER. + +Setting out from the River of the Iroquois, we came to anchor three leagues +from there, on the northern shore. All this country is low, and filled with +the various kinds of trees which I have before mentioned. + +On the first day of July we coasted along the northern shore, where the +woods are very open; more so than in any place we had before seen. The soil +is also everywhere favorable for cultivation. + +I went in a canoe to the southern shore, where I saw a large number of +islands, [178] which abound in fruits, such as grapes, walnuts, hazel-nuts, +a kind of fruit resembling chestnuts, and cherries; also in oaks, aspens, +poplar, hops, ash, maple, beech, cypress, with but few pines and firs. +There were, moreover, other fine-looking trees, with which I am not +acquainted. There are also a great many strawberries, raspberries, and +currants, red, green, and blue, together with numerous small fruits which +grow in thick grass. There are also many wild beasts, such as orignacs, +stags, hinds, does, bucks, bears, porcupines, hares, foxes, bearers, +otters, musk-rats, and some other kinds of animals with which I am not +acquainted, which are good to eat, and on which the savages subsist. [179] + +We passed an island having a very pleasant appearance, some four leagues +long and about half a league wide. [180] I saw on the southern shore two +high mountains, which appeared to be some twenty leagues in the interior. +[181] The savages told me that this was the first fall of the River of the +Iroquois. + +On Wednesday following, we set out from this place, and made some five or +six leagues. We saw numerous islands; the land on them was low, and they +were covered with trees like those of the River of the Iroquois. On the +following day we advanced some few leagues, and passed by a great number of +islands, beautiful on account of the many meadows, which are likewise to be +seen on the mainland as well as on the islands. [182] The trees here are +all very small in comparison with those we had already passed. + +We arrived finally, on the same day, having a fair wind, at the entrance to +the fall. We came to an island almost in the middle of this entrance, which +is a quarter of a league long. [183] We passed to the south of it, where +there were from three to five feet of water only, with a fathom or two in +some places, after which we found suddenly only three or four feet. There +are many rocks and little islands without any wood at all, and on a level +with the water. From the lower extremity of the above-mentioned island in +the middle of the entrance, the water begins to come with great force. +Although we had a very favorable wind, yet we could not, in spite of all +our efforts, advance much. Still, we passed this island at the entrance of +the fall. Finding that we could not proceed, we came to anchor on the +northern shore, opposite a little island, which abounds in most of the +fruits before mentioned. [184] We at once got our skiff ready, which had +been expressly made for passing this fall, and Sieur Du Pont Gravé and +myself embarked in it, together with some savages whom we had brought to +show us the way. After leaving our barque, we had not gone three hundred +feet before we had to get out, when some sailors got into the water and +dragged our skiff over. The canoe of the savages went over easily. We +encountered a great number of little rocks on a level with the water, which +we frequently struck. + +There are here two large islands; one on the northern side, some fifteen +leagues long and almost as broad, begins in the River of Canada, some +twelve leagues towards the River of the Iroquois, and terminates beyond the +fall. [185] The island on the south shore is some four leagues long and +half a league wide. [186] There is, besides, another island near that on +the north, which is perhaps half a league long and a quarter wide. [187] +There is still another small island between that on the north and the other +farther south, where we passed the entrance to the fall. [188] This being +passed, there is a kind of lake, in which are all these islands, and which +is some five leagues long and almost as wide, and which contains a large +number of little islands or rocks. Near the fall there is a mountain, [189] +visible at a considerable distance, also a small river coming from this +mountain and falling into the lake. [190] On the south, some three or four +mountains are seen, which seem to be fifteen or sixteen leagues off in the +interior. There are also two rivers; the one [191] reaching to the first +lake of the River of the Iroquois, along which the Algonquins sometimes go +to make war upon them, the other near the fall and extending some feet +inland. [192] + +On approaching this fall [193] with our little skiff and the canoe, I saw, +to my astonishment, a torrent of water descending with an impetuosity such +as I have never before witnessed, although it is not very high, there being +in some places only a fathom or two, and at most but three. It descends as +if by steps, and at each descent there is a remarkable boiling, owing to +the force and swiftness with which the water traverses the fall, which is +about a league in length. There are many rocks on all sides, while near the +middle there are some very narrow and long islands. There are rapids not +only by the side of those islands on the south shore, but also by those on +the north, and they are so dangerous that it is beyond the power of man to +pass through with a boat, however small. We went by land through the woods +a distance of a league, for the purpose of seeing the end of the falls, +where there are no more rocks or rapids; but the water here is so swift +that it could not be more so, and this current continues three or four +leagues; so that it is impossible to imagine one's being able to go by +boats through these falls. But any one desiring to pass them, should +provide himself with the canoe of the savages, which a man can easily +carry. For to make a portage by boat could not be done in a sufficiently +brief time to enable one to return to France, if he desired to winter +there. Besides this first fall, there are ten others, for the most part +hard to pass; so that it would be a matter of great difficulty and labor to +see and do by boat what one might propose to himself, except at great cost, +and the risk of working in vain. But in the canoes of the savages one can +go without restraint, and quickly, everywhere, in the small as well as +large rivers. So that, by using canoes as the savages do, it would be +possible to see all there is, good and bad, in a year or two. + +The territory on the side of the fall where we went overland consists, so +far as we saw it, of very open woods, where one can go with his armor +without much difficulty. The air is milder and the soil better than in any +place I have before seen. There are extensive woods and numerous fruits, as +in all the places before mentioned. It is in latitude 45 deg. and some +minutes. + +Finding that we could not advance farther, we returned to our barque, where +we asked our savages in regard to the continuation of the river, which I +directed them to indicate with their hands; so, also, in what direction its +source was. They told us that, after passing the first fall, [194] which we +had seen, they go up the river some ten or fifteen leagues with their +canoes, [195] extending to the region of the Algonquins, some sixty leagues +distant from the great river, and that they then pass five falls, +extending, perhaps, eight leagues from the first to the last, there being +two where they are obliged to carry their canoes. [196] The extent of each +fall may be an eighth of a league, or a quarter at most. After this, they +enter a lake, [197] perhaps some fifteen or sixteen leagues long. Beyond +this they enter a river a league broad, and in which they go several +leagues. [198] Then they enter another lake some four or five leagues long. +[199] After reaching the end of this, they pass five other falls, [200] the +distance from the first to the last being about twenty-five or thirty +leagues. Three of these they pass by carrying their canoes, and the other +two by dragging them in the water, the current not being so strong nor bad +as in the case of the others. Of all these falls, none is so difficult to +pass as the one we saw. Then they come to a lake some eighty leagues long, +[201] with a great many islands; the water at its extremity being fresh and +the winter mild. At the end of this lake they pass a fall, [202] somewhat +high and with but little water flowing over. Here they carry their canoes +overland about a quarter of a league, in order to pass the fall, afterwards +entering another lake [203] some sixty leagues long, and containing very +good water. Having reached the end, they come to a strait [204] two leagues +broad and extending a considerable distance into the interior. They said +they had never gone any farther, nor seen the end of a lake [205] some +fifteen or sixteen leagues distant from where they had been, and that those +relating this to them had not seen any one who had seen it; that since it +was so large, they would not venture out upon it, for fear of being +surprised by a tempest or gale. They say that in summer the sun sets north +of this lake, and in winter about the middle; that the water there is very +bad, like that of this sea. [206] + +I asked them whether from this last lake, which they had seen, the water +descended continuously in the river extending to Gaspé. They said no; that +it was from the third lake only that the water came to Gaspé, but that +beyond the last fall, which is of considerable extent, as I have said, the +water was almost still, and that this lake might take its course by other +rivers extending inland either to the north or south, of which there are a +large number there, and of which they do not see the end. Now, in my +judgment, if so many rivers flow into this lake, it must of necessity be +that, having so small a discharge at this fall, it should flow off into +some very large river. But what leads me to believe that there is no river +through which this lake flows, as would be expected, in view of the large +number of rivers that flow into it, is the fact that the savages have not +seen any river taking its course into the interior, except at the place +where they have been. This leads me to believe that it is the south sea +which is salt, as they say. But one is not to attach credit to this opinion +without more complete evidence than the little adduced. + +This is all that I have actually seen respecting this matter, or heard from +the savages in response to our interrogatories. + +ENDNOTES: + +178. Isle Plat, and at least ten other islets along the share before + reaching the Verchères.--_Vide_ Laurie's Chart. + +179. The reader will observe that the catalogue of fruits, trees, and + animals mentioned above, include, only such as are important in + commerce. They are, we think, without an exception, of American + species, and, consequently, the names given by Champlain are not + accurately descriptive. We notice them in order, and in italics give + the name assigned by Champlain in the text. + + Grapes. _Vignes_, probably the frost grape. _Vitis + cordifolia_.--Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_ p. 875. + + Walnuts. _Noir_, this name is given in France to what is known in + commerce as the English or European walnut, _Juglans rigia_, a Persian + fruit now cultivated in most countries in Europe. For want of a + better, Champlain used this name to signify probably the butternut, + _Juglans cinerea_, and five varieties of the hickory; the shag-bark. + _Carya alba_, the mocker-nut, _Carya tontentofa_, the small-fruited + _Carya microcarpa_, the pig-nut, _Carya glatra_, bitter-nut. _Carya + amara_, all of which are exclusively American fruits, and are still + found in the valley of the St Lawrence.--_MS. Letter of J. M. Le + Maine_, of Quebec; Jeffrie's _Natural History of French Dominions in + America_, London. 1760, p.41. + + Hazel-nuts, _noysettes_. The American filbert or hazel-nut, _Corylus + Americana_. The flavor is fine, but the fruit is smaller and the shell + thicker than that of the European filbert. + + "Kind of fruit resembling chestnuts." This was probably the chestnut, + _Caftanea Americana_. The fruit much resembles the European, but is + smaller and sweeter. + + Cherries, _cerises_. Three kinds may here be included, the wild red + cherry, _Prunus Pennsylvanica_, the choke cherry. _Prunus Virginiana_, + and the wild black cherry, _Prunus serotina_. + + Oaks, _chesnes_. Probably the more noticeable varieties, as the white + oak, _Quercus alba_, and red oak, Quercus _rubra_. + + Aspens, _trembles_. The American aspen, _Populus tremuloides_. + + Poplar, _pible_. For _piboule_, as suggested by Laverdière. a variety + of poplar. + + Hops, _houblon_. _Humulus lupulus_, found in northern climates, + differing from the hop of commerce, which was imported from Europe. + + Ash. _fresne_. The white ash, _Fraxinus Americana_, and black ash, + _Fraxinus sambucifolia_. + + Maple, _érable_. The tree here observed was probably the rock or sugar + maple, _Acer faccharinum_. Several other species belong to this + region. + + Beech, _hestre_. The American beech, _Fagus ferruginea_, of which + there is but one species.--_Vide_, Vol. II. p. 113, note 205. + + Cypress, _cyprez_.--_Vide antea_ note 35. + + Strawberry, _fraises_. The wild strawberry, _Fragaria vesca_, and + _Fragaria Virginiana_, both species, are found in this region.--_Vide_ + Pickering's _Chronological History of Plants_, p. 873. + + Raspberries _framboises_. The American raspberry, _Rubis strigosus_. + + Currants, red, green, and blue, _groizelles rouges, vertes and + bleues_. The first mentioned is undoubtedly the red currant of our + gardens. _Ribes rubrum_. The second may have been the unripe fruit of + the former. The third doubtless the black currant, _Ribes nigrum_, + which grows throughout Canada.--_Vide Chronological History of + Plants_, Pickering. p. 871; also Vol. II. note 138. + + _Orignas_, so written in the original text. This is, I think, the + earliest mention of this animal under this Algonquin name. It was + written, by the French, sometimes _orignac, orignat_, and + _orignal_.--_Vide Jesuit Relations_, 1635, p. 16; 1636, p. 11, _et + passim_; Sagard, _Hist. du Canada_, 1636, p. 749; _Description de + l'Amerique_, par Denys. 1672, p. 27. _Orignac_ was used + interchangeably with _élan_, the name of the elk of northern Europe, + regarded by some as the same spccies.--_Vide Mammals_, by Spenser F. + Baird. But the _orignac_ of Champlain was the moose. _Alce + Americanus_, peculiar to the northern latitudes of America. Moose is + derived from the Indian word _moosoa_. This animal is the largest of + the _Cervus_ family. The males are said to attain the weight of eleven + or twelve hundred pounds. Its horns sometimes weigh fifty or sixty + pounds. It is exceedingly shy and difficult to capture. + + Stags, _cerfs_. This is undoubtedly a reference to the caribou, + _Cervus tarandus_. Sagard (1636) calls it _Caribou ou asne Sauuages_, + caribou or wilde ass.--_Hist. du Canada_, p. 750. La Hontan, 1686, + says harts and caribous are killed both in summer and winter after the + same manner with the elks (mooses), excepting that the caribous, which + are a kind of wild asses, make an easy escape when the snow is hard by + virtue of their broad feet (Voyages, p. 59). There are two varieties, + the _Cervus tarandus arcticus_ and the _Cervus tarandus sylvestris_. + The latter is that here referred to and the larger and finer animal, + and is still found in the forests of Canada. + + Hinds, _biches_, the female of _cerfs_, and does, _dains_, the female + of _daim_, the fallow deer. These may refer to the females of the two + preceding species, or to additional species as the common red deer, + _Cervus Virginianus_, and some other species or variety. La Hontan in + the passage cited above speaks of three, the _elk_ which we have shown + to be the moose, the well-known _caribou_, and the _hart_, which was + undoubtedly the common red deer of this region, _Cervus Virginianus_. + I learn from Mr. J. M. LeMoine of Quebec, that the Wapiti, _Elaphus + Canadensis_ was found in the valley of the St. Lawrence a hundred and + forty years ago, several horns and bones having been dug up in the + forest, especially in the Ottawa district. It is now extinct here, but + is still found in the neighborhood of Lake Winnipeg and further west. + Cartier, in 1535, speaks of _dains_ and _cerfs_, doubtless referring + to different species.--_Vide Brief Récit_, D'Avezac ed. p. 31 _verso_. + + Bears. _ours_. The American black bear, _Ursus Americanus_. The grisly + bear. _Ursus ferox_, was found on the Island of Anticosti.--_Vide + Hist. du Canada_, par Sagard, 1636, pp. 148, 750. _La Hontan's + Voyages_. 1687, p. 66. + + Porcupines. _porcs-espics_. The Canada porcupine, _Hystrix pilosus_. A + nocturnal rodent quadruped, armed with barbed quills, his chief + defence when attacked by other animals. + + Hares, _lapins_. The American hare, _Lepus Americanus_. + + Foxes, _reynards_. Of the fox. _Canis vulpes_, there are several + species in Canada. The most common is of a carroty red color, _Vulpes + fulvus_. The American cross fox. _Canis decussatus_, and the black or + silver fox. _Canis argentatus_, are varieties that may have been found + there at that period, but are now rarely if ever seen. + + Beavers, _castors_. The American beaver, _Castor Americanus_. The fur + of the beaver was of all others the most important in the commerce of + New France. + + Otters, _loutres_. This has reference only to the river otter, _Lutra + Canadensis_. The sea otter, _Lutra marina_, is only found in America + on the north-west Pacific coast. + + Muskrat, _rats musquets_. The musk-rat, _Fiber zibethecus_, sometimes + called musquash from the Algonquin word, _m8sk8éss8_, is found in + three varieties, the black, and rarely the pied and white. For a + description of this animal _vide Le Jeune, Jesuit Relations_, 1635, + pp. 18, 19. + +180. The Verchères. + +181. Summits of the Green Mountains. + +182. From the Verchères to Montreal, the St. Lawrence is full of islands, + among them St. Thérèse and nameless others. + +183. This was the Island of St Hélène, a favorite name given to several + other places. He subsequently called it St Hélène, probably from + Hélène Boullé, his wife. Between it and the mainland on the north + flows the _Rapide de Ste. Marie.--Vide Lauru's Chart_. + +184. This landing was on the present site of the city of Montreal, and the + little island, according to Laverdière, is now joined to the mainland + by quays. + +185. The island of Montreal, here referred to, not including the isle + Jésus, is about thirty miles long and nine miles in its greatest + width. + +186. The Isle Perrot is about seven or eight miles long and about three + miles wide. + +187. Island of St Paul, sometimes called Nuns' Island. + +188. Round Island, situated just below St. Hélène's, on the east, say about + fifty yards distant. + +189. The mountain in the rear of the city of Montreal, 700 feet in height, + discovered in October, 1535. by Jacques Cartier, to which he gave the + name after which the city is called. "Nous nomasmes la dicte montaigne + le mont Royal."--_Brief Récit_, 1545, D'Avezac's ed. p. 23. When + Cartier made his visit to this place in 1535, he found on or near the + site of the present city of Montreal the famous Indian town called + _Hochelaga_. Champlain does not speak of it in the text, and it had of + course entirely disappeared.--_Vide_ Cartier's description in _Brief + Récit_, above cited. + +190. Rivière St Pierre. This little river is formed by two small streams + flowing one from the north and the other from the south side of the + mountain. Bellin and Charlevoix denominate it _La Petite Rivière_. + These small streams do not appear on modern maps, and have probably + now entirely disappeared.--_Vide Charlevoix's Carte de l'Isle de + Montreal; Atlas Maritime_, par Sieur Bellin; likewise _Atlas of the + Dominion of Canada_, 1875. + +191. The River St. Lambert, according to Laverdière, a small stream from + which by a short portage the Indian with his canoe could easily reach + Little River, which flows into the basin of Chambly, the lake referred + to by Champlain. This was the route of the Algonquins, at least on + their return from their raids upon the Iroquois.--_Vide_ Vol. II. p. + 225. + +192. Laverdière supposes this insignificant stream to be La Rivière de la + Tortue. + +193. The Falls of St. Louis, or the Lachine rapids. + +194. Lachine Rapids. + +195. Passing through Lake St. Louis, they come to the River Ottawa, + sometimes called the River of the Algonquins. + +196. The Cascades, Cèdres and Rapids du Coteau du Lac with subdivisions. + _Laverdière_. La Hontan mentions four rapids between Lake St. Louis + and St Francis, as _Cascades, Le Cataracte du Trou, Sauts des Cedres_, + and _du Buisson_. + +197. Lake St. Francis, about twenty-five miles long. + +198. Long Saut. + +199. Hardly a lake but rather the river uninterrupted by falls or rapids. + +200. The smaller rapids, the Galops, Point Cardinal, and others.--_Vide_ + La Hontan's description of his passage up this river, _New Voyages to + N. America_, London, 1735. Vol. I. p. 30. + +201. Lake Ontario. It is one hundred and eighty miles long.--_Garneau_. + +202. Niagara Falls. Champlain does not appear to have obtained from the + Indians any adequate idea of the grandeur and magnificence of this + fall. The expression, _qui est quelque peu éleué, où il y a peu d'eau, + laquelle descend_, would imply that it was of moderate if not of an + inferior character. This may have arisen from the want of a suitable + medium of communication, but it is more likely that the intensely + practical nature of the Indian did not enable him to appreciate or + even observe the beauties by which he was surrounded. The immense + volume of water and the perpendicular fall of 160 feet render it + unsurpassed in grandeur by any other cataract in the world. Although + Champlain appears never to have seen this fall, he had evidently + obtained a more accurate description of it before 1629.--_Vide_ note + No. 90 to map in ed. 1632. + +203. Lake Erie, 250 miles long.--_Garneau_. + +204. Detroit river, or the strait which connects Lake Erie and Lake St. + Clair.--_Atlas of the Dominion of Canada_. + +205. Lake Huron, denominated on early maps _Mer Douce_, the sweet sea of + which the knowledge of the Indian guides was very imperfect. + +206. The Indians with whom Champlain came in contact on this hasty visit in + 1603 appear to have had some notion of a salt sea, or as they say + water that is very bad like the sea, lying in an indefinite region, + which neither they nor their friends had ever visited. The salt sea to + which they occasionally referred was probably Hudson's Bay, of which + some knowledge may have been transmitted from the tribes dwelling near + it to others more remote, and thus passing from tribe to tribe till it + reached, in rather an indefinite shape, those dwelling on the St. + Lawrence. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +RETURN FROM THE FALL TO TADOUSSAC.--TESTIMONY OF SEVERAL SAVAGES IN REGARD +TO THE LENGTH AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA, NUMBER OF THE +FALLS, AND THE LAKES WHICH IT TRAVERSES. + +We set out from the fall on Friday, the fourth of June, [207] and returned +the same day to the river of the Iroquois. On Sunday, the sixth of June, we +set out from here, and came to anchor at the lake. On Monday following, we +came to anchor at the Trois Rivières. The same day, we made some four +leagues beyond the Trois Rivières. The following Tuesday we reached Quebec, +and the next day the end of the island of Orleans, where the Indians, who +were encamped on the mainland to the north, came to us. We questioned two +or three Algonquins, in order to ascertain whether they would agree with +those whom we had interrogated in regard to the extent and commencement of +the River of Canada. + +They said, indicating it by signs, that two or three leagues after passing +the fall which we had seen, there is, on the northern shore, a river in +their territory; that, continuing in the said great river, they pass a +fall, where they carry their canoes; that they then pass five other falls +comprising, from the first to the last, some nine or ten leagues, and that +these falls are not hard to pass, as they drag their canoes in the most of +them, except at two, where they carry them. After that, they enter a river +which is a sort of lake, comprising some six or seven leagues; and then +they pass five other falls, where they drag their canoes as before, except +at two, where they carry them as at the first; and that, from the first to +the last, there are some twenty or twenty-five leagues. Then they enter a +lake some hundred and fifty leagues in length, and some four or five +leagues from the entrance of this lake there is a river [208] extending +northward to the Algonquins, and another towards the Iroquois, [209] where +the said Algonquins and the Iroquois make war upon each other. And a little +farther along, on the south shore of this lake, there is another river, +[210] extending towards the Iroquois; then, arriving at the end of this +lake, they come to another fall, where they carry their canoes; beyond +this, they enter another very large lake, as long, perhaps, as the first. +The latter they have visited but very little, they said, and have heard +that, at the end of it, there is a sea of which they have not seen the end, +nor heard that any one has, but that the water at the point to which they +have gone is not salt, but that they are not able to judge of the water +beyond, since they have not advanced any farther; that the course of the +water is from the west towards the east, and that they do not know whether, +beyond the lakes they have seen, there is another watercourse towards the +west; that the sun sets on the right of this lake; that is, in my judgment, +northwest more or less; and that, at the first lake, the water never +freezes, which leads me to conclude that the weather there is moderate. +[211] They said, moreover, that all the territory of the Algonquins is low +land, containing but little wood; but that on the side of the Iroquois the +land is mountainous, although very good and productive, and better than in +any place they had seen. The Iroquois dwell some fifty or sixty leagues +from this great lake. This is what they told me they had seen, which +differs but very little from the statement of the former savages. + +On the same day we went about three leagues, nearly to the Isle aux +Coudres. On Thursday, the tenth of the month, we came within about a league +and a half of Hare Island, on the north shore, where other Indians came to +our barque, among whom was a young Algonquin who had travelled a great deal +in the aforesaid great lake. We questioned him very particularly, as we had +the other savages. He told us that, some two or three leagues beyond the +fall we had seen, there is a river extending to the place where the +Algonquins dwell, and that, proceeding up the great river, there are five +falls, some eight or nine leagues from the first to the last, past three of +which they carry their canoes, and in the other two drag them; that each +one of these falls is, perhaps, a quarter of a league long. Then they enter +a lake some fifteen leagues in extent, after which they pass five other +falls, extending from the first to the last some twenty to twenty-five +leagues, only two of which they pass in their canoes, while at the three +others they drag them. After this, they enter a very large lake, some three +hundred leagues in length. Proceeding some hundred leagues in this lake, +they come to a very large island, beyond which the water is good; but that, +upon going some hundred leagues farther, the water has become somewhat bad, +and, upon reaching the end of the lake, it is perfectly salt. That there is +a fall about a league wide, where a very large mass of water falls into +said lake; that, when this fall is passed, one sees no more land on either +side, but only a sea so large that they have never seen the end of it, nor +heard that any one has; that the sun sets on the right of this lake, at the +entrance to which there is a river extending towards the Algonquins, and +another towards the Iroquois, by way of which they go to war; that the +country of the Iroquois is somewhat mountainous, though very fertile, there +being there a great amount of Indian corn and other products which they do +not have in their own country. That the territory of the Algonquins is low +and fertile. + +I asked them whether they had knowledge of any mines. They told us that +there was a nation called the good Iroquois, [212] who come to barter for +the articles of merchandise which the French vessels furnish the +Algonquins, who say that, towards the north, there is a mine of pure +copper, some bracelets made from which they showed us, which they had +obtained from the good Iroquois; [213] that, if we wished to go there, they +would guide those who might be deputed for this object. + +This is all that I have been able to ascertain from all parties, their +statements differing but little from each other, except that the second +ones who were interrogated said that they had never drunk salt water; +whence it appears that they had not proceeded so far in said lake as the +others. They differ, also, but little in respect to the distance, some +making it shorter and others longer; so that, according to their statement, +the distance from the fall where we had been to the salt sea, which is +possibly the South Sea, is some four hundred leagues. It is not to be +doubted, then, according to their statement, that this is none other than +the South Sea, the sun setting where they say. + +On Friday, the tenth of this month, [214] we returned to Tadoussac, where +our vessel lay. + +ENDNOTES: + +207. As they were at Lake St Peter on the 29th of June, it is plain that + this should read July. + +208. This river extending north from Lake Ontario is the river-like Bay of + Quinté. + +209. The Oswego River. + +210. The Genesee River, after which they come to Niagara Falls. + +211. We, can easily recognize Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara Falls, + although this account is exceedingly confused and inaccurate. + +212. Reference is here made to the Hurons who were nearly related to the + Iroquois. They were called by the French the good Iroquois in + distinction from the Iroquois in the State of New York, with whom they + were at war. + +213. A specimen of pure copper was subsequently presented to Champlain.-- + Vol. II. p. 236: _Vide_ a brochure on _Prehistoric Copper Implements_, + by the editor, reprinted from the New England Historical and + Genealogical Register for Jan. 1879; also reprinted in the Collections + of Wis. Hist. Soc., Vol. VIII. 1880. + +214. Friday, July 11th. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +VOYAGE FROM TADOUSSAC TO ISLE PERCÉE.--DESCRIPTION OF MOLUES BAY, THE +ISLAND OF BONAVENTURE, BAY OF CHALEUR: ALSO SEVERAL RIVERS, LAKES, AND +COUNTRIES WHERE THERE ARE VARIOUS KINDS OF MINES. + +At once, after arriving at Tadoussac, we embarked for Gaspé, about a +hundred leagues distant. On the thirteenth day of the month, we met a troop +of savages encamped on the south shore, nearly half way between Tadoussac +and Gaspé. The name of the Sagamore who led them is Armouchides, who is +regarded as one of the most intelligent and daring of the savages. He was +going to Tadoussac to barter their arrows and orignac meat [215] for +beavers and martens [216] with the Montagnais, Etechemins, and Algonquins. + +On the 15th day of the month we arrived at Gaspé, situated on the northern +shore of a bay, and about a league and a half from the entrance. This bay +is some seven or eight leagues long, and four leagues broad at its +entrance. There is a river there extending some thirty leagues inland. +[217] Then we saw another bay, called Moluës Bay [218] some three leagues +long and as many wide at its entrance. Thence we come to Isle Percée, [219] +a sort of rock, which is very high and steep on two sides, with a hole +through which shallops and boats can pass at high tide. At low tide, you +can go from the mainland to this island, which is only some four or five +hundred feet distant. There is also another island, about a league +southeast of Isle Percée, called the Island of Bonaventure, which is, +perhaps, half a league long. Gaspé, Moluës Bay, and Isle Percée are all +places where dry and green fishing is carried on. + +Beyond Isle Percée there is a bay, called _Baye de Chaleurs_, [220] +extending some eighty leagues west-southwest inland, and some fifteen +leagues broad at its entrance. The Canadian savages say that some sixty +leagues along the southern shore of the great River of Canada, there is a +little river called Mantanne, extending some eighteen leagues inland, at +the end of which they carry their canoes about a league by land, and come +to the Baye de Chaleurs, [221] whence they go sometimes to Isle Percée. +They also go from this bay to Tregate [222] and Misamichy. [223] + +Proceeding along this coast, you pass a large number of rivers, and reach a +place where there is one called _Souricoua_, by way of which Sieur Prevert +went to explore a copper mine. They go with their canoes up this river for +two or three days, when they go overland some two or three leagues to the +said mine, which is situated on the seashore southward. At the entrance to +the above-mentioned river there is an island [224] about a league out, from +which island to Isle Percée is a distance of some sixty or seventy leagues. +Then, continuing along this coast, which runs towards the east, you come to +a strait about two leagues broad and twenty-five long. [225] On the east +side of it is an island named _St. Lawrence_, [226] on which is Cape +Breton, and where a tribe of savages called the _Souriquois_ winter. +Passing the strait of the Island of St. Lawrence, and coasting along the +shore of La Cadie, you come to a bay [227] on which this copper mine is +situated. Advancing still farther, you find a river [228] extending some +sixty or eighty leagues inland, and nearly to the Lake of the Iroquois, +along which the savages of the coast of La Cadie go to make war upon the +latter. + +One would accomplish a great good by discovering, on the coast of Florida, +some passage running near to the great lake before referred to, where the +water is salt; not only on account of the navigation of vessels, which +would not then be exposed to so great risks as in going by way of Canada, +but also on account of the shortening of the distance by more than three +hundred leagues. And it is certain that there are rivers on the coast of +Florida, not yet discovered, extending into the interior, where the land is +very good and fertile, and containing very good harbors. The country and +coast of Florida may have a different temperature and be more productive in +fruits and other things than that which I have seen; but there cannot be +there any lands more level nor of a better quality than those we have seen. + +The savages say that, in this great Baye de Chaleurs, there is a river +extending some twenty leagues into the interior, at the extremity of which +is a lake [229] some twenty leagues in extent, but with very little water; +that it dries up in summer, when they find in it, a foot or foot and a half +under ground, a kind of metal resembling the silver which I showed them, +and that in another place, near this lake, there is a copper mine. + +This is what I learned from these savages. + +ENDNOTES: + +215. _Orignac_. Moose.--_Vide antea_, note 179. + +216. Martens, _martres_. This may include the pine-marten, _Mustela + martes_, and the pecan or fisher, _Mustela Canadenfis_, both of which + were found in large numbers in New France. + +217. York River. + +218. Molues Bay, _Baye des Moluès_. Now known as Mal-Bay, from _morue_, + codfish, a corruption from the old orthography _molue_ and _baie_, + codfish bay, the name having been originally applied on account of the + excellent fish of the neighborhood. The harbor of Mal-Bay is enclosed + between two points, Point Peter on the north, and a high rocky + promontory on the south, whose cliffs rise to the height of 666 + feet.--_Vide Charts of the St. Lawrence by Captain H. W. Bayfield_. + +219. _Isle Percée.--Vide_ Vol. II, note 290. + +220. _Baye de Chaleurs_. This bay was so named by Jacques Cartier on + account of the excessive heat, _chaleur_, experienced there on his + first voyage in 1634.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, Mechelant, + ed. Paris, 1865, p. 50. The depth of the bay is about ninety miles and + its width at the entrance is about eighteen. It receives the + Ristigouche and other rivers. + +221. By a portage of about three leagues from the river Matane to the + Matapedia, the Bay of Chaleur may be reached by water. + +222. _Tregaté_, Tracadie. By a very short portage Between Bass River and + the Big Tracadie River, this place may be reached. + +223. _Misamichy_, Miramichi. This is reached by a short portage from the + Nepisiguit to the head waters of the Miramichi. + +224. It is obvious from this description that the island above mentioned is + Shediac Island, and the river was one of the several emptying into + Shediac Bay, and named _Souricoua_, as by it the Indians went to the + Souriquois or Micmacs in Nova Scotia. + +225. The Strait of Canseau. + +226. _St. Lawrence_. This island had then borne the name of the _Island of + Cape Breton_ for a hundred years. + +227. The Bay of Fundy. + +228. The River St John by which they reached the St Lawrence, and through + the River Richelieu the lake of the Iroquois. It was named Lake + Champlain in 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 223. + +229. By traversing the Ristigouche River, the Matapediac may be reached, + the lake here designated. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +RETURN FROM ISLE PERCÉE TO TADOUSSAC.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COVES, HARBORS, +RIVERS, ISLANDS, ROCKS, FALLS, BAYS, AND SHALLOWS ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE. + + +We set out from Isle Percée on the nineteenth of the month, on our return +to Tadoussac. When we were some three leagues from Cape Évêque [230] +encountered a tempest, which lasted two days, and obliged us to put into a +large cove and wait for fair weather. The next day we set out from there +and again encountered another tempest. Not wishing to put back, and +thinking that we could make our way, we proceeded to the north shore on the +28th of July, and came to anchor in a cove which is very dangerous on +account of its rocky banks. This cove is in latitude 51 deg. and some +minutes. [231] + +The next day we anchored near a river called St. Margaret, where the depth +is some three fathoms at full tide, and a fathom and a half at low tide. It +extends a considerable distance inland. So far as I observed the eastern +shore inland, there is a waterfall some fifty or sixty fathoms in extent, +flowing into this river; from this comes the greater part of the water +composing it. At its mouth there is a sand-bank, where there is, perhaps, +at low tide, half a fathom of water. All along the eastern shore there is +moving sand; and here there is a point some half a league from the above +mentioned river, [232] extending out half a league, and on the western +shore there is a little island. This place is in latitude 50 deg. All these +lands are very poor, and covered with firs. The country is somewhat high, +but not so much so as that on the south side. + +After going some three leagues, we passed another river, [233] apparently +very large, but the entrance is, for the most part, filled with rocks. Some +eight leagues distant from there, is a point [234] extending out a league +and a half, where there is only a fathom and a half of water. Some four +leagues beyond this point, there is another, where there is water enough. +[235] All this coast is low and sandy. + +Some four leagues beyond there is a cove into which a river enters. [236] +This place is capable of containing a large number of vessels on its +western side. There is a low point extending out about a league. One must +sail along the eastern side for some three hundred paces in order to enter. +This is the best harbor along all the northern coast; yet it is very +dangerous sailing there on account of the shallows and sandbanks along the +greater part of the coast for nearly two leagues from the shore. + +Some six leagues farther on is a bay, [237] where there is a sandy island. +This entire bay is very shoal, except on the eastern side, where there are +some four fathoms of water. In the channel which enters this bay, some four +leagues from there, is a fine cove, into which a river flows. There is a +large fall on it. All this coast is low and sandy. Some five leagues +beyond, is a point extending out about half a league, [238] in which there +is a cove; and from one point to the other is a distance of three leagues; +which, however, is only shoals with little water. + +Some two leagues farther on, is a strand with a good harbor and a little +river, in which there are three islands, [239] and in which vessels could +take shelter. + +Some three leagues from there, is a sandy point, [240] extending out about +a league, at the end of which is a little island. Then, going on to the +Esquemin, [241] you come to two small, low islands and a little rock near +the shore. These islands are about half a league from the Esquemin, which +is a very bad harbor, surrounded by rocks and dry at low tide, and, in +order to enter, one must tack and go in behind a little rocky point, where +there is room enough for only one vessel. A little farther on, is a river +extending some little distance into the interior; this is the place where +the Basques carry on the whale-fishery. [242] To tell the truth, the harbor +is of no account at all. + +We went thence to the harbor of Tadoussac, on the third of August. All +these lands above-mentioned along the shore are low, while the interior is +high. They are not so attractive or fertile as those on the south shore, +although lower. + +This is precisely what I have seen of this northern shore. + +ENDNOTES: + +230. _Évesque_ This cape cannot be identified. + +231. On passing to the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, they entered, + according to the conjecture of Laverdière, Moisie Bay. It seems to us, + however, more likely that they entered a cove somewhere among the + Seven Islands, perhaps near the west channel to the Seven Islands Bay, + between Point Croix and Point Chassé, where they might have found good + anchorage and a rocky shore. The true latitude is say, about 50 deg. + 9'. The latitude 51 deg., as given by Champlain, would cut the coast + of Labrador, and is obviously an error. + +232. This was probably the river still bearing the name of St. Margaret. + There is a sandy point extending out on the east and a peninsula on + the western shore, which may then have been an island formed by the + moving sands.--_Vide Bayfield's charts_. + +233. Rock River, in latitude 50 deg. 2'. + +234. Point De Monts. The Abbé Laverdière, whose opportunities for knowing + this coast were excellent, states that there is no other point between + Rock River and Point De Monts of such extent, and where there is so + little water. As to the distance, Champlain may have been deceived by + the currents, or there may have been, as suggested by Laverdière, a + typographical error. The distance to Point De Monts is, in fact, + eighteen leagues. + +235. Point St Nicholas.--_Laverdière_. This is probably the point referred + to, although the distance is again three times too great. + +236. The Manicouagan River.--_Laverdière_. The distance is still excessive, + but in other respects the description in the text identifies this + river. On Bellin's map this river is called Rivière Noire. + +237. Outard Bay. The island does not now appear. It was probably an island + of sand, which has since been swept away, unless it was the sandy + peninsula lying between Outard and Manicouagan Rivers. The fall is + laid down on Bayfield's chart. + +238. Bersimis Point Walker and Miles have _Betsiamites_, Bellin, + _Bersiamites_ Laverdière, _Betsiams_, and Bayfield, _Bersemis_. The + text describes the locality with sufficient accuracy. + +239. Jeremy Island. Bellin, 1764, lays down three islands, but Bayfield, + 1834, has but one. Two of them appear to have been swept away or + united in one. + +240. Three leagues would indicate Point Colombier. But Laverdière suggests + Mille Vaches as better conforming to the description in the text, + although the distance is three times too great. + +241. _Esquemin_. Walker and Miles have _Esconmain_, Bellin, _Lesquemin_, + Bayfield, _Esquamine_, and Laverdière, _Escoumins_. The river half a + league distant is now called River Romaine. + +242. The River Lessumen, a short distance from which is _Anse aux Basques_, + or Basque Cove. This is probably the locality referred to in the text. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES BEFORE ENGAGING IN WAR--OF THE ALMOUCHICOIS +SAVAGES AND THEIR STRANGE FORM--NARRATIVE OF SIEUR DE PREVERT OF ST. MALO +ON THE EXPLORATION OF THE LA CADIAN COAST, WHAT MINES THERE ARE THERE; THE +EXCELLENCE AND FERTILITY OF THE COUNTRY. + +Upon arriving at Tadoussac, we found the savages, whom we had met at the +River of the Iroquois, and who had had an encounter at the first lake with +three Iroquois canoes, there being ten of the Montagnais. The latter +brought back the heads of the Iroquois to Tadoussac, there being only one +Montagnais wounded, which was in the arm by an arrow; and in case he should +have a dream, it would be necessary for all the ten others to execute it in +order to satisfy him, they thinking, moreover, that his wound would thereby +do better. If this savage should die, his relatives would avenge his death +either on his own tribe or others, or it would be necessary for the +captains to make presents to the relatives of the deceased, in order to +content them, otherwise, as I have said, they would practise vengeance, +which is a great evil among them. + +Before these Montagnais set out for the war, they all gathered together in +their richest fur garments of beaver and other skins, adorned with beads +and belts of various colors. They assembled in a large public place, in the +presence of a sagamore named Begourat, who led them to the war. They were +arranged one behind the other, with their bows and arrows, clubs, and round +shields with which they provide for fighting. They went leaping one after +the other, making various gestures with their bodies, and many snail-like +turns. Afterwards they proceeded to dance in the customary manner, as I +have before described; then they had their _tabagie_, after which the women +stripped themselves stark naked, adorned with their handsomest +_matachiats_. Thus naked and dancing, they entered their canoes, when they +put out upon the water, striking each other with their oars, and throwing +quantities of water at one another. But they did themselves no harm, since +they parried the blows hurled at each other. After all these ceremonies, +the women withdrew to their cabins, and the men went to the war against the +Iroquois. + +On the sixteenth of August we set out from Tadoussac, and arrived on the +eighteenth at Isle Percée, where we found Sieur Prevert of St. Malo, who +came from the mine where he had gone with much difficulty, from the fear +which the savages had of meeting their enemies, the Almouchicois, [243] who +are savages of an exceedingly strange form, for their head is small and +body short, their arms slender as those of a skeleton, so also the thighs, +their legs big and long and of uniform size, and when they are seated on +the ground, their knees extend more than half a foot above the head, +something strange and seemingly abnormal. They are, however, very agile and +resolute, and are settled upon the best lands all the coast of La Cadie; +[244] so that the Souriquois fear them greatly. But with the assurance +which Sieur de Prevert gave them, he took them to the mine, to which the +savages guided him. [245] It is a very high mountain, extending somewhat +seaward, glittering brightly in the sunlight, and containing a large amount +of verdigris, which proceeds from the before-mentioned copper mine. At the +foot of this mountain, he said, there was at low water a large quantity of +bits of copper, such as he showed us, which fall from the top of the +mountain. Going on three or four leagues in the direction of the coast of +La Cadie one finds another mine; also a small river extending some distance +in a Southerly direction, where there is a mountain containing a black +pigment with which the savages paint themselves. Then, some six leagues +from the second mine, going seaward about a league, and near the coast of +La Cadie, you find an island containing a kind of metal of a dark brown +color, but white when it is cut. This they formerly used for their arrows +and knives, which they beat into shape with stones, which leads me to +believe that it is neither tin nor lead, it being so hard; and, upon our +showing them some silver, they said that the metal of this island was like +it, which they find some one or two feet under ground. Sieur Prevert gave +to the savages wedges and chisels and other things necessary to extract the +ore of this mine, which they promised to do, and on the following year to +bring and give the same to Sieur Prevert. + +They say, also, that, some hundred or hundred and twenty leagues distant, +there are other mines, but that they do not dare to go to them, unless +accompanied by Frenchmen to make war upon their enemies, in whose +possession the mines are. + +This place where the mine is, which is in latitude 44 deg. and some +minutes, [246] and some five or six leagues from the coast of La Cadie, is +a kind of bay some leagues broad at its entrance, and somewhat more in +length, where there are three rivers which flow into the great bay near the +island of St John, [247] which is some thirty or thirty-five leagues long +and some six leagues from the mainland on the south. There is also another +small river emptying about half way from that by which Sieur Prevert +returned, in which there are two lake-like bodies of water. There is also +still another small river, extending in the direction of the pigment +mountain. All these rivers fall into said bay nearly southeast of the +island where these savages say this white mine is. On the north side of +this bay are the copper mines, where there is a good harbor for vessels, at +the entrance to which is a small island. The bottom is mud and sand, on +which vessels can be run. + +From this mine to the mouth of the above rivers is a distance of some sixty +or eighty leagues overland. But the distance to this mine, along the +seacoast, from the outlet between the Island of St. Lawrence and the +mainland is, I should think, more than fifty or sixty leagues. [248] + +All this country is very fair and flat, containing all the kinds of trees +we saw on our way to the first fall of the great river of Canada, with but +very little fir and cypress. + +This is an exact statement of what I ascertained from Sieur Prevert. + +ENDNOTES: + +243. _Almouchiquois_. Champlain here writes _Armouchicois_. The account + here given to Prevert, by the Souriquois or Micmacs, as they have been + more recently called, of the Almouchicois or Indians found south of + Saco, on the coast of Massachusetts, if accurately reported, is far + from correct. _Vide_ Champlain's description of them, Vol. II. p. 63, + _et passim_. + +244. _Coast of La Cadie_. This extent given to La Cadie corresponds with + the charter of De Monts, which covered the territory from 40 deg. + north latitude to 46 deg. The charter was obtained in the autumn of + this same year, 1603, and before the account of this voyage by + Champlain was printed.--_Vide_ Vol. 11. note 155. + +245. Prevert did not make this exploration, personally, although he + pretended that he did. He sent some of his men with Secondon, the + chief of St. John, and others. His report is therefore second-hand, + confused, and inaccurate. Champlain exposes Prevert's attempt to + deceive in a subsequent reference to him. Compare Vol. II. pp. 26, 97, + 98. + +246. _44 deg. and some minutes_. The Basin of Mines, the place where the + copper was said to be, is about 45 deg. 30'. + +247. _Island of St. John_. Prince Edward Island. It was named the island of + St. John by Cartier, having been discovered by him on St. John's Day, + the 24th of June, 1534.--_Vide Voyage de Jacques Cartier_, 1534, + Michelant, ed. Paris, 1865, p. 33. It continued to be so called for + the period of _two hundred and sixty-five_ years, when it was changed + to Prince Edward Island by an act of its legislature, in November, + 1798, which was confirmed by the king in council, Feb. 1, 1799. + +248. That is, from the Strait of Canseau round the coast of Nova Scotia to + the Bay of Mines. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TERRIBLE MONSTER, WHICH THE SAVAGES CALL GOUGOU--OUR SHORT AND FAVORABLE +VOYAGE BACK TO FRANCE + +There is, moreover, a strange matter, worthy of being related, which +several savages have assured me was true; namely, near the Bay of Chaleurs, +towards the south, there is an island where a terrible monster resides, +which the savages call _Gougou_, and which they told me had the form of a +woman, though very frightful, and of such a size that they told me the tops +of the masts of our vessel would not reach to his middle, so great do they +picture him; and they say that he has often devoured and still continues to +devour many savages; these he puts, when he can catch them, into a great +pocket, and afterwards eats them; and those who had escaped the jaws of +this wretched creature said that its pocket was so great that it could have +put our vessel into it. This monster makes horrible noises in this island, +which the savages call the _Gougou_; and when they speak of him, it is with +the greatest possible fear, and several have assured me that they have seen +him. Even the above-mentioned Prevert from St. Malo told me that, while +going in search of mines, as mentioned in the previous chapter, he passed +so near the dwelling-place of this frightful creature, that he and all +those on board his vessel heard strange hissings from the noise it made, +and that the savages with him told him it was the same creature, and that +they were so afraid that they hid themselves wherever they could, for fear +that it would come and carry them off. What makes me believe what they say +is the fact that all the savages in general fear it, and tell such strange +things about it that, if I were to record all they say, it would be +regarded as a myth; but I hold that this is the dwelling-place of some +devil that torments them in the above-mentioned manner. [249] This is what +I have learned about this Gougou. + +Before leaving Tadoussac on our return to France, one of the sagamores of +the Montagnais, named _Bechourat_, gave his son to Sieur Du Pont Gravé to +take to France, to whom he was highly commended by the grand sagamore, +Anadabijou, who begged him to treat him well and have him see what the +other two savages, whom we had taken home with us, had seen. We asked them +for an Iroquois woman they were going to eat, whom they gave us, and whom, +also, we took with this savage. Sieur de Prevert also took four savages: a +man from the coast of La Cadie, a woman and two boys from the Canadians. + +On the 24th of August, we set out from Gaspé, the vessel of Sieur Prevert +and our own. On the 2d of September we calculated that we were as far as +Cape Race, on the 5th, we came upon the bank where the fishery is carried +on; on the 16th, we were on soundings, some fifty leagues from Ouessant; on +the 20th we arrived, by God's grace, to the joy of all, and with a +continued favorable wind, at the port of Havre de Grâce. + +ENDNOTES: + +249. The description of this enchanted island is too indefinite to invite a + conjecture of its identity or location. The resounding noise of the + breaking waves, mingled with the whistling of the wind, might well lay + a foundation for the fears of the Indians, and their excited + imaginations would easily fill out and complete the picture. In + Champlain's time, the belief in the active agency of good and evil + spirits, particularly the latter, in the affairs of men, was + universal. It culminated in this country in the tragedies of the Salem + witchcraft in 1692. It has since been gradually subsiding, but + nevertheless still exists under the mitigated form of spiritual + communications. Champlain, sharing the credulity of his times, very + naturally refers these strange phenomena reported by the savages, + whose statements were fully accredited and corroborated by the + testimony of his countryman, M. Prevert, to the agency of some evil + demon, who had taken up his abode in that region in order to vex and + terrify these unhappy Indians. As a faithful historian, he could not + omit this story, but it probably made no more impression upon his mind + than did the thousand others of a similar character with which he must + have been familiar He makes no allusion to it in the edition of 1613, + when speaking of the copper mines in that neighborhood, nor yet in + that of 1632, and it had probably passed from his memory. + + + + +CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION + +OF THE + +CARTE DE LA NOVVELLE FRANCE. + +1632. + +TABLE FOR FINDING THE PROMINENT PLACES ON THE MAP. + +A. _Baye des Isles_. [1] + +B. _Calesme_. [2] + +C. _Baye des Trespasses_. + +D. _Cap de Leuy_. [3] + +E. _Port du Cap de Raye_, where the cod-fishery is carried on. + +F. The north-west coast of Newfoundland, but little known. + +G. Passage to the north at the 52d degree. [4] + +H. _Isle St. Paul_, near Cape St Lawrence + +I. _Isle de Sasinou_, between Monts Déserts and Isles aux Corneilles. [5] + +K. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, some eight or nine +leagues in circuit. [6] + +L. _Riuière Jeannin_. [7] + +M. _Riuière St. Antoine_, [8] + +N. Kind of salt water discharging into the sea, with ebb and flood, +abundance of fish and shell-fish, and in some places oysters of not very +good flavor. [9] + +P. _Port aux Coquilles_, an island at the mouth of the River St. Croix, +with good fishing. [10] + +Q. Islands where there is fishing. [11] + +R. _Lac de Soissons_. [12] + +S. _Baye du Gouffre_. [13] + +T. _Isle de Monts Déserts_, very high. + +V. _Isle S. Barnabe_, in the great river near the Bic. + +X. _Lesquemain_, where there is a small river, abounding in salmon and +trout, near which is a little rocky islet, where there was formerly a +station for the whale fishery. [14] + +Y. _La Pointe aux Allouettes_, where, in the month of September, there are +numberless larks, also other kinds of game and shell-fish. + +Z. _Isle aux Liéures_, so named because some hares were captured there when +it was first discovered. [15] + +2. _Port à Lesquille_, dry at low tide, where are two brooks coming from +the mountains. [16] + +3. _Port au Saulmon_, dry at low tide. There are two small islands here, +abounding, in the season, with strawberries, raspberries, and _bluets_. +[17] Near this place is a good roadstead for vessels, and two small brooks +flowing into the harbor. + +4. _Riuière Platte_, coming from the mountains, only navigable for canoes. +It is dry here at low tide a long distance out. Good anchorage in the +offing. + +5. _Isles aux Couldres_, some league and a half long, containing in their +season great numbers of rabbits, partridges, and other kinds of game. At +the southwest point are meadows, and reefs seaward. There is anchorage here +for vessels between this island and the mainland on the north. + +6. _Cap de Tourmente_, a league from which Sieur de Champlain had a +building erected, which was burned by the English in 1628. Near this place +is Cap Bruslé, between which and Isle aux Coudres is a channel, with eight, +ten, and twelve fathoms of water. On the south the shore is muddy and +rocky. To the north are high lands, &c. + +7. _Isle d'Orléans_, six leagues in length, very beautiful on account of +its variety of woods, meadows, vines, and nuts. The western point of this +island is called Cap de Condé. + +8. _Le Sault de Montmorency_, twenty fathoms high, [18] formed by a river +coming from the mountains, and discharging into the St. Lawrence, a league +and a half from Quebec. + +9. _Rivière S. Charles_, coming from Lac S. Joseph, [19] very beautiful +with meadows at low tide. At full tide barques can go up as far as the +first fall. On this river are built the churches and quarters of the +reverend Jésuit and Récollect Fathers. Game is abundant here in spring and +autumn. + +10. _Rivière des Etechemins_, [20] by which the savages go to Quinebequi, +crossing the country with difficulty, on account of the falls and little +water. Sieur de Champlain had this exploration made in 1628, and found a +savage tribe, seven days from Quebec, who till the soil, and are called the +Abenaquiuoit. + +11. _Rivière de Champlain_, near that of Batisquan, north-west of the +Grondines. + +12. _Rivière de Sauvages_ [21] + +13. _Isle Verte_, five or six leagues from Tadoussac. [22] + +14. _Isle de Chasse_. + +15. _Rivière Batisquan_, very pleasant, and abounding in fish. + +16. _Les Grondines_, and some neighboring islands. A good place for hunting +and fishing. + +17. _Rivière des Esturgeons & Saulmons_, with a fall of water from fifteen +to twenty feet high, two leagues from Saincte Croix, which descends into a +small pond discharging into the great river St. Lawrence. [23] + +18. _Isle de St. Eloy_, with a passage between the island and the mainland +on the north. [24] + +19. _Lac S. Pierre_, very beautiful, three to four fathoms in depth, and +abounding in fish, surrounded by hills and level tracts, with meadows in +places. Several small streams and brooks flow into it. + +20. _Rivière du Gast_, very pleasant, yet containing but little water. [25] + +21. _Rivière Sainct Antoine_. [26] + +22. _Rivière Saincte Suzanne_. [27] + +23. _Rivière des Yrocois_, very beautiful, with many islands and meadows. +It comes from Lac de Champlain, five or fix days' journey in length, +abounding in fish and game of different kinds. Vines, nut, plum, and +chestnut trees abound in many places. There are meadows and very pretty +islands in it. To reach it, it is necessary to pass one large and one small +fall. [28] + +24. _Sault de Rivière du Saguenay_, fifty leagues from Tadoussac, ten or +twelve fathoms high. [29] + +25. _Grand Sault_, which falls some fifteen feet, amid a large number of +islands. It is half a league in length and three leagues broad. [30] + +26. _Port au Mouton_. + +27. _Baye de Campseau_. + +28. _Cap Baturier_, on the Isle de Sainct Jean. + +29. A river by way of which they go to the Baye Françoise. [31] + +30. _Chasse des Eslans_. [32] + +31. _Cap de Richelieu_, on the eastern part of the Isle d'Orléans. [33] + +32. A small bank near Isle du Cap Breton. + +33. _Rivière des Puans_, coming from a lake where there is a mine of pure +red copper. [34] + +34. _Sault de Gaston_, nearly two leagues broad, and discharging into the +Mer Douce. It comes from another very large lake, which, with the Mer +Douce, have an extent of thirty days' journey by canoe, according to the +report of the savages. [35] + +_Returning to the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Coast of La Cadie_. + +35. _Riuière de Gaspey_. [36] + +36. _Riuière de Chaleu_. [37] + +37. Several Islands near Miscou and the harbor of Miscou, between two +islands. + +38. _Cap de l'Isle Sainct Jean_. [38] + +39. _Port au Rossignol_. + +40. _Riuière Platte_. [39] + +41. _Port du Cap Naigré_. On the bay by this cape there is a French +settlement, where Sieur de la Tour commands, from whom it was named Port la +Tour. The Reverend Récollect Fathers dwelt here in 1630. [40] + +42. _Baye du Cap de Sable_. + +43. _Baye Saine_. [41] + +44. _Baye Courante_, with many islands abounding in game, good fishing, and +places favorable for vessels. [42] + +45. _Port du Cap Fourchu_, very pleasant, but very nearly dry at low tide. +Near this place are many islands, with good hunting. + +47. _Petit Passage de Isle Longue_. Here there is good cod-fishing. + +48. _Cap des Deux Bayes_. [43] + +49. _Port des Mines_, where, at low tide, small pieces of very pure copper +are to be found in the rocks along the shore. [44] + +50. _Isles de Bacchus_, very pleasant, containing many vines, nut, +plum, and other trees. [45] + +51. Islands near the mouth of the river Chouacoet. + +52. _Isles Assez Hautes_, three or four in number, two or three leagues +distant from the land, at the mouth of Baye Longue. [46] + +53. _Baye aux Isles_, with suitable harbors for vessels. The country is +very good, and settled by numerous savages, who till the land. In these +localities are numerous cypresses, vines, and nut-trees. [47] + +54. _La Soupçonneuse_, an island nearly a league distant from the land. +[48] + +55. _Baye Longue_. [49] + +56. _Les Sept Isles_. [50] + +57. _Riuière des Etechemins_. [51] _The Virginias, where the English are +settled, between the 36th and 37th degrees of latitude. Captains Ribaut and +Laudonnière made explorations 36 or 37 years ago along the coasts adjoining +Florida, and established a settlement_. [52] + +58. Several rivers of the Virginias, flowing into the Gulf. + +59. Coast inhabited by savages who till the soil, which is very good. + +60. _Poincte Confort_. [53] + +61. _Immestan_. [54] + +62. _Chesapeacq Bay_. + +63. _Bedabedec_, the coast west of the river Pemetegoet. [55] + +64. _Belles Prairies_. + +65. Place on Lac Champlain where the Yroquois were defeated by Sieur +Champlain in 1606. [56] + +66. _Petit Lac_, by way of which they go to the Yroquois, after passing +over that of Champlain. [57] + +67. _Baye des Trespassez_, on the island of Newfoundland. + +68. _Chappeau Rouge_. + +69. _Baye du Sainct Esprit_. + +70. _Les Vierges_. + +71. _Port Breton_, near Cap Sainct Laurent, on Isle du Cap Breton. + +72. _Les Bergeronnettes_, three leagues from Tadoussac. + +73. _Le Cap d'Espoir_, near Isle Percée. [58] + +74. _Forillon_, at Poincte de Gaspey. + +75. _Isle de Mont-réal_, at the Falls of St. Louis, in the River St. +Lawrence. [59] + +76. _Riuière des Prairies_, coming from a lake at the Falls of St. Louis, +where there are two islands, one of which is Montreal For several years +this has been a station for trading with the savages. [60] + +77. _Sault de la Chaudière_, on the river of the Algonquins, some +eighteen feet high, and descending among rocks with a great roar. [61] + +78. _Lac de Nibachis_, the name of a savage captain who dwells here and +tills a little land, where he plants Indian corn. [62] + +79. Eleven lakes, near each other, one, two, and three leagues in extent, +and abounding in fish and game. Sometimes the savages go this way in order +to avoid the Fall of the Calumets, which is very dangerous. Some of these +localities abound in pines, yielding a great amount of resin. [63] + +80. _Sault des Pierres à Calunmet_, which resemble alabaster. + +81. _Isle de Tesouac_, an Algonquin captain (_Tesouac_) to +whom the savages pay a toll for allowing them passage to Quebec. [64] + +82. _La Riuière de Tesouac_, in which there are five falls. [65] + +83. A river by which many savages go to the North Sea, above the Saguenay, +and to the Three Rivers, going some distance overland. [66] + +84. The lakes by which they go to the North Sea. + +85. A river extending towards the North Sea. + +86. Country of the Hurons, so called by the French, where there are +numerous communities, and seventeen villages fortified by three palisades +of wood, with a gallery all around in the form of a parapet, for defence +against their enemies. This region is in latitude 44 deg. 30', with a +fertile soil cultivated by the savages. + +87. Passage of a league overland, where the canoes are carried. + +88. A river discharging into the _Mer Douce_. [67] + +89. Village fortified by four palisades, where Sieur de Champlain went in +the war against the Antouhonorons, and where several savages were taken +prisoners. [68] + +90. Falls at the extremity of the Falls of St. Louis, very high, where many +fish come down and are stunned. [69] + +91. A small river near the Sault de la Chaudière, where there is a +waterfall nearly twenty fathoms high, over which the water flows in such +volume and with such velocity that a long arcade is made, beneath which the +savages go for amusement, without getting wet. It is a fine sight. [70] + +92. This river is very beautiful, with numerous islands of various sizes. +It passes through many fine lakes, and is bordered by beautiful meadows. It +abounds in deer and other animals, with fish of excellent quality. There +are many cleared tracts of land upon it, with good soil, which have been +abandoned by the savages on account of their wars. It discharges into Lake +St. Louis, and many tribes come to these regions to hunt and obtain their +provision for the winter. [71] + +93. Chestnut forest, where there are great quantities of chestnuts, on the +borders of Lac St Louis. Also many meadows, vines, and nut-trees. [72] + +94. Lake-like bodies of salt water at the head of Baye François, where the +tide ebbs and flows. Islands containing many birds, many meadows in +different localities, small rivers flowing into these species of lakes, by +which they go to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, near Isle S. Jean. [73] + +95. _Isle Haute_, a league in circuit, and flat on top. It contains fresh +water and much wood. It is a league distant from Port aux Mines and Cap des +Deux Bayes. It is more than forty fathoms high on all sides, except in one +place, where it slopes, and where there is a pebbly point of a triangular +shape. In the centre is a pond with salt water. Many birds make their nests +in this island. + +96. _La Riuière des Algommequins_, extending from the Falls of St Louis +nearly to the Lake of the Bissereni, containing more than eighty falls, +large and small, which must be passed by going around, by rowing, or by +hauling with ropes. Some of these falls are very dangerous, particularly in +going down. [74] + +_Gens de Petun_. This is a tribe cultivating this herb (_tobacco_), in +which they carry on an extensive traffic with the other tribes. They have +large towns, fortified with wood, and they plant Indian corn. + +_Cheveux Releuez_. These are savages who wear nothing about the loins, and +go stark naked, except in winter, when they clothe themselves in robes of +skins, which they leave off when they quit their houses for the fields. +They are great hunters, fishermen, and travellers, till the soil, and plant +Indian corn. They dry _bluets_ [75] and raspberries, in which they carry on +an extensive traffic with the other tribes, taking in exchange skins, +beads, nets, and other articles. Some of these people pierce the nose, and +attach beads to it They tattoo their bodies, applying black and other +colors. They wear their hair very straight, and grease it, painting it red, +as they do also the face. + +_La Nation Neutre_. This is a people that maintains itself against all the +others. They engage in war only with the Assistaqueronons. They are very +powerful, having forty towns well peopled. + +_Les Antouhonorons_. They consist of fifteen towns built in strong +situations. They are enemies of all the other tribes, except Neutral +nation. Their country is fine, with a good climate, and near the river St. +Lawrence, the passage of which they forbid to all the other tribes, for +which reason it is less visited by them. They till the soil, and plant +their land. [76] _Les Yroquois_. They unite with the Antouhonorons in +making war against all the other tribes, except the Neutral nation. + +_Carantouanis_. This is a tribe that has moved to the south of the +Antouhonorons, and dwells in a very fine country, where it is securely +quartered. They are friends of all the other tribes, except the above named +Antouhonorons, from whom they are only three days' journey distant. Once +they took as prisoners some Flemish, but sent them back again without doing +them any harm, supposing that they were French. Between Lac St. Louis and +Sault St. Louis, which is the great river St Lawrence, there are five +falls, numerous fine lakes, and pretty islands, with a pleasing country +abounding in game and fish, favorable for settlement, were it not for the +wars which the savages carry on with each other. + +_La Mer Douce_ is a very large lake, containing a countless number of +islands. It is very deep, and abounds in fish of all varieties and of +extraordinary size, which are taken at different times and seasons, as in +the great sea. The southern shore is much pleasanter than the northern, +where there are many rocks and great quantities of caribous. + +_Le Lac des Bisserenis_ is very beautiful, some twenty-five leagues in +circuit, and containing numerous islands covered with woods and meadows. +The savages encamp here, in order to catch in the river sturgeon, pike, and +carp, which are excellent and of very great size, and taken in large +numbers. Game is also abundant, although the country is not particularly +attractive, it being for the most part rocky. + +[NOTE.--The following are marked on the map as places where the French have +had settlements: 1. Grand Cibou; 2. Cap Naigre; 3. Port du Cap Fourchu; 4. +Port Royal; 5. St. Croix; 6. Isle des Monts Deserts; 7. Port de Miscou; 8. +Tadoussac; 9. Quebec; 10. St. Croix, near Quebec.] + +ENDNOTES: + +1. It is to be observed that some of the letters and figures are not found + on the map. Among the rest, the letter A is wanting. It is impossible of + course to tell with certainty to what it refers, particularly as the + places referred to do not occur in consecutive order. The Abbé + Laverdière thinks this letter points to the bay of Boston or what we + commonly call Massachusetts Bay, or to the Bay of all Isles as laid down + by Champlain on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia. + +2. On the southern coast of Newfoundland, now known as _Placentia Bay_. + +3. Point Levi, opposite Quebec. + +4. The letter G is wanting, but the reference is plainly to the Straits of + Belle Isle, as may be seen by reference to the map. + +5. This island was somewhere between Mount Desert and Jonesport; not + unlikely it was that now known as Petit Manan. It was named after + Sasanou, chief of the River Kennebec. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 58. + +6. The underestimate is so great, that it is probable that the author + intended to say that the length of the island is eight or nine leagues. + +7. The Boyer, east of Quebec. It appears to have been named after the + President Jeannin. _Vide antea_, p.112. + +8. A river east of the Island of Orleans now called Rivière du Sud. + +9. N is wanting. + +10. A harbor at the north-eastern extremity of the island of Campobello. + _Vide_ Vol II. p. 100. + +11. Q is wanting. The reference is perhaps to the islands in Penobscot Bay. + +12. Lac de Soissons So named after Charles de Bourbon, Count de Soissons, a + Viceroy of New France in 1612. _Vide antea_, p 112. Now known as the + Lake of Two Mountains. + +13. A bay at the mouth of a river of this name now called St. Paul's Bay, + near the Isle aux Coudres. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 305. + +14. _Vide antea_, note 241. + +15. An island in the River St Lawrence west of Tadoussac, still called Hare + Island. _Vide antea_, note 148. + +16. Figure 2 is not found on the map, and it is difficult to identify the + place referred to. + +17. Bluets, _Vaccinium Canadense_, the Canada blueberry. Champlain says it + is a small fruit very good for eating. _Vide_ Quebec ed. Voyage of + 1615, p. 509. + +18. _Vide_ Vol. II. p. 176. + +19. For _Lac S. Joseph_, read Lac S. Charles. + +20. Champlain here calls the Chaudière the River of the Etechemins, + notwithstanding he had before given the name to that now known as the + St. Croix. _Vide_ Vol. II. pp. 30, 47, 60. There is still a little east + of the Chaudière a river now known as the Etechemin; but the channel of + the Chaudière would be the course which the Indians would naturally + take to reach the head-waters of the Kennebec, where dwelt the + Abenaquis. + +21. River Verte, entering the St. Lawrence on the south of Green Island, + opposite to Tadoussac. + +22. Green Island. + +23. Jacques Cartier River. + +24. Near the Batiscan. + +25. Nicolet. _Vide_ Laverdière's note, Quebec ed. Vol. III. p. 328. + +26. River St. Francis. + +27. Rivière du Loup. + +28. River Richelieu. + +29. This number is wanting. + +30. The Falls of St Louis, above Montreal. The figures are wanting. + +31. One of the small rivers between Cobequid Bay and Cumberland Strait. + +32. Moose Hunting, on the west of Gaspé. + +33. Argentenay.--_Laverdière_. + +34. Champlain had not been in this region, and consequently obtained his + information from the savages. There is no such lake as he represents on + his map, and this island producing pure copper may have been Isle + Royale, in Lake Superior. + +35. The Falls of St. Mary. + +36. York River. + +37. The Ristigouche. + +38. Now called North Point. + +39. Probably Gold River, flowing into Mahone Bay. + +40. Still called Port La Tour. + +41. Halifax Harbor. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 266. + +42. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 192. + +43. Now Cape Chignecto, in the Bay of Fundy. + +44. Advocates' Harbor. + +45. Richmond Island _Vide_ note 42 Vol. I. and note 123 Vol. II. of this + work. + +46. The Isles of Shoals. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 142. + +47. Boston Bay. + +48. Martha's Vineyard _Vide_ Vol. II. note 227. + +49. Merrimac Bay, as it may be appropriately called stretching from Little + Boar's Head to Cape Anne. + +50. These islands appear to be in Casco Bay. + +51. The figures are not on the map. The reference is to the Scoudic, + commonly known as the River St Croix. + +52. There is probably a typographical error in the figures. The passage + should read "66 or 67 years ago." + +53. Now Old Point Comfort. + +54. Jamestown, Virginia. + +55. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 95. + +56. This should read 1609. _Vide_ Vol. II. note 348. + +57. Lake George _Vide antea_, note 63. p. 93. + +58. This cape still bears the same name. + +59. This number is wanting. + +60. This river comes from the Lake of Two Mountains, is a branch of the + Ottawa separating the Island of Montreal from the Isle Jésus and flows + into the main channel of the Ottawa two or three miles before it + reaches the eastern end of the Island of Montreal. + +61. The Chaudière Falls are near the site of the city of Ottawa. _Vide + antea_, p. 120. + +62. Muskrat Lake. + +63. This number is wanting on the map. Muscrat Lake is one of this + succession of lakes, which extends easterly towards the Ottawa. + +64. Allumette Island, in the River Ottawa, about eighty-five miles above + the capital of the Dominion of Canada. + +65. That part of the River Ottawa which, after its bifurcation, sweeps + around and forms the northern boundary of Allumette Island. + +66. The Ottawa beyond its junction with the Matawan. + +67. French River. + +68. _Vide antea_, note 83, p. 130. + +69. Plainly Lake St. Louis, now the Ontario, and not the Falls of St Louis. + The reference is here to Niagara Falls. + +70. The River Rideau. + +71. The River Trent discharges into the Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake + Ontario or Lac St Louis. + +72. On the borders of Lake Ontario in the State of New York. + +73. The head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. + +74. The River Ottawa, here referred to, extends nearly to Lake Nipissing, + here spoken of as the lake of the _Bissèreni_. + +75. The Canada blueberry, Vaccanium Canadense. The aborigines of New + England were accustomed to dry the blueberry for winter's use. _Vide + Josselyn's Rarities_, Tuckerman's ed., Boston, 1865, p. 113. + +76. This reference is to the Antouoronons, as given on the map. + + + + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +[Seal Inscription: In Memory of Thomas Prince] + +COMMONWEALTH OF MASSACHUSETTS. + +IN THE YEAR ONE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FOUR. + +AN ACT TO INCORPORATE THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives, in General +Court assembled, and by the authority of the same, as follows_: + +SECTION I. John Ward Dean, J. Wingate Thornton, Edmund F. Slafter, and +Charles W. Tuttle, their associates and successors, are made a corporation +by the name of the PRINCE SOCIETY, for the purpose of preserving and +extending the knowledge of American History, by editing and printing such +manuscripts, rare tracts, and volumes as are mostly confined in their use +to historical students and public libraries. + +SECTION 2. Said corporation may hold real and personal estate to an amount +not exceeding thirty thousand dollars. + +SECTION 3. This act shall take effect upon its passage. + +Approved March 18, 1874. + + * * * * * + +NOTE.--The Prince Society was organized on the 25th of May, 1858. What was +undertaken as an experiment has proved successful. This ACT OF +INCORPORATION has been obtained to enable the Society better to fulfil its +object, in its expanding growth. + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +CONSTITUTION. + +ARTICLE I.--This Society Shall be called THE PRINCE SOCIETY; and it Shall +have for its object the publication of rare works, in print or manuscript, +relating to America. + +ARTICLE II--The officers of the Society shall be a President, four +Vice-Presidents, a Corresponding Secretary, a Recording Secretary, and a +Treasurer; who together shall form the Council of the Society. + +ARTICLE III.--Members may be added to the Society on the recommendation of +any member and a confirmatory vote of a majority of the Council. + +Libraries and other Institutions may hold membership, and be represented by +an authorized agent. + +All members shall be entitled to and shall accept the volumes printed by +the Society, as they are issued from time to time, at the prices fixed by +the Council; and membership shall be forfeited by a refusal or neglect to +accept the said volumes. + +Any person may terminate his membership by resignation addressed in writing +to the President; provided, however, that he shall have previously paid for +all volumes issued by the Society after the date of his election as a +member. + +ARTICLE IV.--The management of the Society's affairs shall be vested in the +Council, which shall keep a faithful record of its proceedings, and report +the same to the Society annually, at its General Meeting in May. + +ARTICLE V.--On the anniversary of the birth of the Rev. Thomas +Prince,--namely, on the twenty-fifth day of May, in every year (but if this +day shall fall on Sunday or a legal holiday, on the following day),--a +General Meeting shall be held at Boston, in Massachusetts, for the purpose +of electing officers, hearing the report of the Council, auditing the +Treasurer's account, and transacting other business. + +ARTICLE VI.--The officers shall be chosen by the Society annually, at the +General Meeting; but vacancies occurring between the General Meetings may +be filled by the Council. + +ARTICLE VII.--By-Laws for the more particular government of the Society may +be made or amended at any General Meeting. + +ARTICLE VIII.--Amendments to the Constitution may be made at the General +Meeting in May, by a three-fourths vote, provided that a copy of the same +be transmitted to every member of the Society, at least two weeks previous +to the time of voting thereon. + +COUNCIL. + +RULES AND REGULATIONS. + +1. The Society shall be administered on the mutual principle, and solely in +the interest of American history. + +2. A volume shall be issued as often as practicable, but not more +frequently than once a year. + +3. An editor of each work to be issued shall be appointed, who shall be a +member of the Society, whose duty it shall be to prepare, arrange, and +conduct the same through the press; and, as he will necessarily be placed +under obligations to scholars and others for assistance, and particularly +for the loan of rare books, he shall be entitled to receive ten copies, to +enable him to acknowledge and return any courtesies which he may have +received. + +4. All editorial work and official service shall be performed gratuitously. + +5. All contracts connected with the publication of any work shall be laid +before the Council in distinct specifications in writing, and be adopted by +a vote of the Council, and entered in a book kept for that purpose; and, +when the publication of a volume is completed, its whole expense shall be +entered, with the items of its cost in full, in the same book. No member of +the Council shall be a contractor for doing any part of the mechanical work +of the publications. + +6. The price of each volume shall be a hundredth part of the cost of the +edition, or as near to that as conveniently may be; and there shall be no +other assessments levied upon the members of the Society. + +7. A sum, not exceeding one thousand dollars, may be set apart by the +Council from the net receipts for publications, as a working capital; and +when the said net receipts shall exceed that sum, the excess shall be +divided, from time to time, among the members of the Society, by remitting +either a part or the whole cost of a volume, as may be deemed expedient. + +8. All moneys belonging to the Society shall be deposited in the New +England Trust Company in Boston, unless some other banking institution +shall be designated by a vote of the Council; and said moneys shall be +entered in the name of the Society, subject to the order of the Treasurer. + +9. It shall be the duty of the President to call the Council together, +whenever it may be necessary for the transaction of business, and to +preside at its meetings. + +10. It shall be the duty of the Vice-Presidents to authorize all bills +before their payment, to make an inventory of the property of the Society +during the month preceding the annual meeting and to report the same to the +Council, and to audit the accounts of the Treasurer. + +11. It shall be the duty of the Corresponding Secretary to issue all +general notices to the members, and to conduct the general correspondence +of the Society. + +12. It shall be the duty of the Recording Secretary to keep a complete +record of the proceedings both of the Society and of the Council, in a book +provided for that purpose. + +13. It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to forward to the members bills +for the volumes, as they are issued; to superintend the sending of the +books; to pay all bills authorized and indorsed by at leaft two +Vice-Presidents of the Society; and to keep an accurate account of all +moneys received and disbursed. + +14. No books shall be forwarded by the Treasurer to any member until the +amount of the price fixed for the same shall have been received; and any +member neglecting to forward the said amount for one month after his +notification, shall forfeit his membership. + +OFFICERS OF THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +_President_. + +THE REV. EDMUND F. SLAFTER, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Vice-Presidents_. + +JOHN WARD DEAN, A.M. BOSTON, MASS. +WILLIAM B. TRASK, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. +THE HON. CHARLES H. BELL, A.M. EXETER, N. H. +JOHN MARSHALL BROWN, A.M. PORTLAND, ME. + +_Corresponding Secretary_. + +CHARLES W. TUTTLE, Ph.D. BOSTON, MASS. + +_Recording Secretary_. + +DAVID GREENE HASKINS, JR., A.M. CAMBRIDGE, MASS. + +_Treasurer_. + +ELBRIDGE H. GOSS, ESQ. BOSTON, MASS. + + +THE PRINCE SOCIETY. + +1880. + +The Hon. Charles Francis Adams, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Agnew, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Thomas Coffin Amory, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William Sumner Appleton, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Walter T. Avery, Esq. New York, N.Y. +George L. Balcom, Esq. Claremont, N.H. +Samuel L. M. Barlow, Esq. New York, N Y. +The Hon. Charles H. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +John J. Bell, A.M. Exeter, N.H. +Samuel Lane Boardman, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. James Ware Bradbury, LL.D. Augusta, Me. +J. Carson Brevoort, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +Sidney Brooks, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Mrs. John Carter Brown. Providence, R.I. +John Marshall Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Joseph O. Brown, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Philip Henry Brown, A.M. Portland, Me. +Thomas O. H. P. Burnham, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Bement Butler, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Mellen Chamberlain, A.M. Chelsea, Mass. +William Eaton Chandler, A.M. Concord, N.H. +George Bigelow Chase, A.M. Concord, Mass. +Clarence H. Clark, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +Gen. John S. Clark, Auburn, N.Y. +Ethan N. Coburn, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jeremiah Colburn, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Joseph J. Cooke, Esq. Providence, R.I. +Deloraine P. Corey, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Erastus Corning, Esq. Albany, N.Y. +Ellery Bicknell Crane, Esq. Worcester, Mass. +Abram E. Cutter, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +The Rev. Edwin A. Dalrymple, S.T.D. Baltimore, Md. +William M. Darlington, Esq. Pittsburg, Pa. +John Ward Dean, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles Deane, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Edward Denham, Esq. New Bedford, Mass. +Prof. Franklin B. Dexter, A.M. New Haven, Ct. +The Rev. Henry Martyn Dexter, D.D. Boston, Mass. +Samuel Adams Drake, Esq. Melrose, Mass. +Henry Thayer Drowne, Esq. New York, N.Y. +Henry H. Edes, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Jonathan Edwards, A.B., M.D. New Haven, Ct. +Janus G. Elder, Esq. Lewiston, Me., +Samuel Eliot, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Alfred Langdon Elwyn, M.D. Philadelphia, Pa. +James Emott, Esq. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. William M. Evarts, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +Joseph Story Fay, Esq. Woods Holl, Mass. +John S. H. Fogg, M.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Henry W. Foote, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Samuel P. Fowler, Esq. Danvers, Mass. +James E. Gale, Esq. Haverhill, Mass. +Marcus D. Gilman, Esq. Montpelier, Vt. +The Hon. John E. Godfrey Bangor, Me. +Abner C. Goodell, Jr., A.M. Salem, Mass. +Elbridge H. Goss, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Chief Justice Horace Gray, L.L.D. Boston, Mass. +William W. Greenough, A.B. Boston, Mass. +Isaac J. Greenwood, A.M. New York, N.Y. +Charles H. Guild, Esq. Somerville, Mass. +The Hon. Robert S. Hale, LL.D. Elizabethtown, N.Y. +C. Fiske Harris, A.M. Providence, R.I. +David Greene Haskins, Jr., A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +The Hon. Francis B. Hayes, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Thomas Wentworth Higginson, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +W. Scott Hill, M.D. Augusta, Me. +James F. Hunnewell, Esq. Charlestown, Mass. +Theodore Irwin, Esq. Oswego, N.Y. +The Hon. Clark Jillson Worcester, Mass. +Mr. Sawyer Junior Nashua, N.H. +George Lamb, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Edward F. de Lancey, Esq. New York, N.Y. +William B. Lapham, M.D. Augusta, Me. +Henry Lee, A.M. Boston, Mass. +John A. Lewis, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Orsamus H. Marshall, Esq. Buffalo, N.Y. +William T. R. Marvin, A.M. Boston, Mass. +William F. Matchett, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Frederic W. G. May, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. James H. Means, D.D. Boston, Mass. +George H. Moore, LL.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. Henry C. Murphy, LL.D. Brooklyn, N.Y. +The Rev. James De Normandie, A.M. Portsmouth, N.H. +The Hon. James W. North. Augusta, Me. +Prof. Charles E. Norton, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +John H. Osborne, Esq. Auburn, N.Y. +George T. Paine, Esq. Providence, R.I. +The Hon. John Gorham Palfrey, LL.D. Cambridge, Mass. +Daniel Parish, Jr., Esq. New York, N. Y. +Francis Parkman, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Augustus T. Perkins, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry, D.D., LL.D. Davenport, Iowa. +William Frederic Poole, A.M. Chicago, Ill. +George Prince, Esq. Bath, Me. +Capt. William Prince, U.S.A. New Orleans, La. +Samuel S. Purple, M.D. New York, N.Y. +The Hon. John Phelps Futnam, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Edward Ashton Rollins, A.M. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Mark Skinner Chicago, Ill. +The Rev. Carlos Slafter, A.M. Dedham, Mass. +The Rev. Edmund F. Slafter, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Charles C. Smith, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Samuel T. Snow, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Oliver Bliss Stebbins, Esq. Boston, Mass. +George Stevens, Esq. Lowell, Mass. +The Hon. Edwin W. Stoughton. New York, N.Y. +William B. Trask, Esq. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. William H. Tuthill. Tipton, Iowa. +Charles W. Tuttle, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +The Rev. Alexander Hamilton Vinton, D.D. Pomfret, Ct. +Joseph B. Walker, A.M. Concord, N.H. +William Henry Wardwell, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Miss Rachel Wetherill Philadelphia, Pa. +Henry Wheatland, A.M., M.D. Salem, Mass. +John Gardner White, A.M. Cambridge, Mass. +William Adee Whitehead, A.M. Newark, N.J. +William H. Whitmore, A.M. Boston, Mass. +Henry Austin Whitney, A.M. Boston, Mass. +The Hon. Marshall P. Wilder, Ph.D. Boston, Mass. +Henry Winsor, Esq. Philadelphia, Pa. +The Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, LL.D. Boston, Mass. +Charles Levi Woodbury, Esq. Boston, Mass. +Ashbel Woodward, M.D. Franklin, Ct. +J. Otis Woodward, Esq. Albany, N.Y. + +LIBRARIES. + +American Antiquarian Society Worcester, Mass. +Amherst College Library Amherst, Mass. +Astor Library New York, N.Y. +Boston Athenaeum Boston, Mass. +Boston Library Society Boston, Mass. +British Museum London, Eng. +Concord Public Library Concord, Mass. +Eben Dale Sutton Reference Library Peabody, Mass. +Free Public Library Worcester, Mass. +Grosvenor Library Buffalo, N.Y. +Harvard College Library Cambridge, Mass. +Historical Society of Pennfylvania Philadelphia, Pa. +Library Company of Philadelphia Philadelphia, Pa. +Library of Parliament Ottawa, Canada. +Library of the State Department Washington, D.C. +Long Island Historical Society Brooklyn, N.Y. +Maine Historical Society Brunswick, Me. +Maryland Historical Society Baltimore, Md. +Massachusetts Historical Society Boston, Mass. +Mercantile Library New York, N.Y. +Minnesota Historical Society St. Paul, Minn. +Newburyport Public Library, Peabody Fund Newburyport, Mass. +New England Historic Genealogical Society Boston, Mass. +Newton Free Library Newton, Mass. +New York Society Library New York, N.Y. +Plymouth Public Library Plymouth, Mass. +Portsmouth Athenaeum Portsmouth, N.H. +Public Library of the City of Boston Boston, Mass. +Redwood Library Newport, R.I. +State Library of Massachusetts Boston, Mass. +State Library of New York Albany, N.Y. +State Library of Rhode Island Providence, R.I. +State Library of Vermont Montpelier, Vt. +Williams College Library Williamstown, Mass. +Yale College Library New Haven, Ct. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, VOYAGES OF SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN, VOL. 1 *** + +This file should be named 8vcv110.txt or 8vcv110.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, 8vcv111.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, 8vcv110a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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