40 files changed, 54298 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/6721-8.txt b/6721-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..caa13d8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,12772 @@
+Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott
+       Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's
+       Last Expedition'
+
+Author: Charles Turley
+
+Release Date: January 7, 2006 [EBook #6721]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+[Page ii]
+[Illustration: Captain Robert F. Scott R.N.
+
+_J. Russell & Sons, Southsea, photographers_]
+
+
+[Page iii]
+THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT
+
+
+_Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's Last
+Expedition'_
+
+
+BY CHARLES TURLEY
+
+Author of 'Godfrey Marten, Schoolboy,' 'A Band of Brothers,' etc.
+
+
+With an introduction by
+
+SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+
+
+Numerous illustrations in colour and black and white and a map
+
+
+
+
+[Page v]
+CONTENTS
+
+  INTRODUCTION
+
+  THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+  Chapter
+       I. The 'Discovery'.
+      II. Southward Ho!
+     III. In Search of Winter Quarters.
+      IV. The Polar Winter.
+       V. The Start of the Southern Journey.
+      VI. The Return.
+     VII. A Second Winter.
+    VIII. The Western Journey.
+      IX. The Return from the West.
+       X. Release.
+
+  THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+  Chapter
+          Preface to 'Scott's Last Expedition'.
+          Biographical Note.
+          British Antarctic Expedition, 1910.
+[Page vi]
+       I. Through Stormy Seas.
+      II. Depôt Laying to One Ton Camp.
+     III. Perils.
+      IV. A Happy Family.
+       V. Winter.
+      VI. Good-bye to Cape Evans.
+     VII. The Southern Journey Begins.
+    VIII. On the Beardmore Glacier.
+      IX. The South Pole.
+       X. On the Homeward Journey.
+      XI. The Last March.
+          Search Party Discovers the Tent.
+          In Memoriam.
+          Farewell Letters.
+          Message to the Public.
+          Index.
+
+
+
+
+[Page vii]
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  _PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE_
+
+    Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott
+      _From a photograph by J. Russell & Son, Southsea_.
+
+  _COLOURED PLATES_
+
+    _From Water-Colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson._.
+
+    Sledding.
+    Mount Erebus.
+    Lunar Corona.
+    'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp.
+
+  _DOUBLE PAGE PLATE_
+
+    Panorama at Cape Evans.
+    Berg in South Bay.
+
+  _FULL PAGE PLATES_
+
+    Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet.
+    The 'Discovery'.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.
+    Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.
+    Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.
+    The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.
+    Pony Camp on the barrier.
+    Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.
+    Pitching the double tent on the summit.
+[Page viii]
+    Adélie Penguin on nest.
+    Emperor Penguins on sea-ice.
+    Dog party starting from Hut Point.
+    Dog lines.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.
+    Looking south from Lower Glacier depôt,
+    Man hauling camp, 87th parallel.
+    The party at the South Pole.
+    'The Last Rest'.
+
+    Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal.
+
+    Track chart of main southern journey.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+INTRODUCTION
+
+BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+
+On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately
+home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief
+recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing
+man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the
+streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I then
+escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long through
+the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the life of
+action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those who
+sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he assured
+me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems to have
+been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I had drawn
+this from him with a promise that, if his reply was satisfactory, I
+would let him go to bed. However, the family traditions (they are
+nothing more) do bring him from across the border. According to
+them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott of Brownhead whose
+estates were sequestered after the '45. His dwelling was razed
+to the ground and he fled with his wife, to whom after some grim
+privations a son was born in a fisherman's hut on September 14,
+1745. This son eventually settled in Devon, where he prospered,
+[Page 2]
+for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands that he died. He
+had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the eldest had as
+youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the Captain Scott who
+was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the same date, or perhaps
+a little earlier, it was decided that the boy should go into the
+Navy like so many of his for-bears.
+
+I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days of
+Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may have
+some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain Scott;
+and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some chance
+for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things does
+not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history aged
+six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in velveteen,
+being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping horribly,
+like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest recollection of
+him of a sister, who was too young to join in a children's party
+on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always called, had intimated
+to her that from a window she would be able to see him taking a
+noble lead in the festivities in the garden, and she looked; and
+that is what she saw. He had been showing his guests how superbly
+he could jump the leat, and had fallen into it.
+
+Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch of
+the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another
+branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These were
+the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many ways of
+being in them accidentally, it being forbidden
+[Page 3]
+to enter them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother
+a new version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of
+'Touch.' You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little
+good fortune, one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not
+so much matter though you got wetter.
+
+An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields was
+to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned the easy
+ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach to this
+dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his country and
+of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties of gallant tars
+to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At foot of the avenue
+was an oak tree which hung over the road, and thus by dropping from
+this tree you got into open country. The tree was (at this time)
+of an enormous size, with sufficient room to conceal a navy, and
+the navy consisted mainly of the sisters and the young brother.
+All had to be ready at any moment to leap from the tree and join
+issue with the enemy on the leat. In the fields there was also a
+mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups 'the pond,' and here Scott's
+battleship lay moored. It seems for some time to have been an English
+vessel, but by and by he was impelled, as all boys are, to blow
+something up, and he could think of nothing more splendid for his
+purpose than the battleship. Thus did it become promptly a ship
+of the enemy doing serious damage to the trade of those parts,
+and the valiant Con took to walking about with lips pursed, brows
+frowning as he cogitated how to remove the
+[Page 4]
+Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters and brother trotting
+by his side and looking anxiously into his set face. At last he
+decided to blow the accursed thing up with gunpowder. His crew
+cheered, and then waited to be sent to the local shop for a pennyworth
+of gunpowder. But Con made his own gunpowder, none of the faithful
+were ever told how, and on a great day the train was laid. Con applied
+the match and ordered all to stand back. A deafening explosion was
+expected, but a mere puff of flame was all that came; the Terror
+of Devon, which to the unimaginative was only a painted plank,
+still rode the waters. With many boys this would be the end of
+the story, but not with Con. He again retired to the making of
+gunpowder, and did not desist from his endeavors until he had blown
+that plank sky-high.
+
+His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is probably
+the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly always given
+it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was with Con, and a
+few minutes after he had sworn that he would not open it he was
+begging for permission to use it on a tempting sapling. 'Very well,'
+his father said grimly, 'but remember, if you hurt yourself, don't
+expect any sympathy from me.' The knife was opened, and to cut
+himself rather badly proved as easy as falling into the leat. The
+father, however, had not noticed, and the boy put his bleeding
+hand into his pocket and walked on unconcernedly. He was really
+considerably damaged; and this is a good story of a child of seven
+who all his life suffered extreme nausea from
+[Page 5]
+the sight of blood; even in the _Discovery_ days, to get accustomed
+to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch Dr. Wilson skinning
+his specimens.
+
+When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess,
+and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel
+and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between
+Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in
+vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing
+other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this
+is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a
+gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and when
+he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be seen. He
+walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic was that
+he called at police-stations on the way to give practical details
+of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children would have
+thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange mixture of the
+dreamy and the practical, and never more practical than immediately
+after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and time altogether when
+thus abstracted. I remember the first time he dined with me, when
+a number of well-known men had come to meet him, he arrived some
+two hours late. He had dressed to come out, then fallen into one
+of his reveries, forgotten all about the engagement, dined by himself
+and gone early to bed. Just as he was falling asleep he remembered
+where he should be, arose hastily and joined us as speedily as
+possible. It was equally characteristic of him to say
+[Page 6]
+of the other guests that it was pleasant to a sailor to meet so
+many interesting people. When I said that to them the sailor was
+by far the most interesting person in the room he shouted with
+mirth. It always amused Scott to find that anyone thought him a
+person of importance.
+
+[Illustration: ROBERT F. SCOTT AT THE AGE OF 13 AS A NAVAL CADET.]
+
+I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as later
+when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly
+built. This was so far from being the case that there were many
+anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could
+not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary
+number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined to
+be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here printed,
+in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had gone by the
+time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no letters of
+this period extant and thus little can be said of his years on
+the _Britannia_ where 'you never felt hot in your bunk because you
+could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at port hole.'
+He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who is not thought
+well of by the other boys as well as by their instructors, but none
+of them foresaw that he was likely to become anybody in particular.
+He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father had dubbed him, owing to
+his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him to work hard, he cast a
+wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a good loser, he was untidy
+to the point of slovenliness, and he had a fierce temper. All this
+I think has been proved to me up to the
+[Page 7]
+hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so cannot
+be very different from the man he grows into it leaves me puzzled.
+The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically as hard as
+nails and flung himself into work or play with a vehemence I cannot
+remember ever to have seen equaled. I have fished with him, played
+cricket and football with him, and other games, those of his own
+invention being of a particularly arduous kind, for they always
+had a moment when the other players were privileged to fling a hard
+ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,' was the last quality
+you would think of when you saw him bearing down on you with that
+ball, and it was the last he asked of you if you were bearing down
+on him. He was equally strenuous of work; indeed I have no clearer
+recollection of him than his way of running from play to work or work
+to play, so that there should be the least possible time between.
+It is the 'time between' that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott
+lived less in it than anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the
+best of losers, with a shout of delight for every good stroke by
+an opponent: what is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat
+and correct in his dress, quite a model for the youth who come
+after him, but that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good
+form' in the Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof.
+I have never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and
+I have seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have
+been excusable.
+
+However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was
+[Page 8]
+none of those things I saw in him but something better. The faults
+of his youth must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he
+got to know they were there and he took an iron grip of them and
+never let go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything
+else that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud.
+I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his manhood
+days which are not strictly within the sphere of this introductory
+note. The horror of slackness was turned into a very passion for
+keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one time taking charge
+of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race it all the way between
+work and home, a distance of three miles. Even when he was getting
+the _Discovery_ ready and doing daily the work of several men, he
+might have been seen running through the streets of London from
+Savile Row or the Admiralty to his home, not because there was
+no time for other method of progression, but because he must be
+fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for him; he kept an eye for
+ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly the most practical of
+men. And practical in the cheeriest of ways. In 1894 a disastrous
+change came over the fortunes of the family, the father's money
+being lost and then Scott was practical indeed. A letter he wrote I
+at this time to his mother, tenderly taking everything and everybody
+on his shoulders, must be one of the best letters ever written by
+a son, and I hope it may be some day published. His mother was the
+great person of his early life, more to him even than his brother
+[Page 9]
+or his father, whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of
+following the sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all
+bound up in this son, determined that Con should do the big things
+he had not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the
+head of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not
+in an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He
+never seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles
+fell, and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became
+famous as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old
+Mooney' in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts,
+in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district,
+deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words, 'Wull
+'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young gentleman
+be here along?'
+
+Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived
+the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and
+took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were
+satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his sisters.
+It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness so
+far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model
+for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While
+there were others to help he would not spend his small means on
+himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that he had
+grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a pin. In
+the days when he returned from
+[Page 10]
+his first voyage in the Antarctic and all England was talking of him,
+one of his most novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class
+tailor and be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by
+the possession of this as a child. When going about the country
+lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was
+sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red
+carpets.
+
+The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but by
+now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days of which
+unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends who remember
+the tempers remember also the sunny smile that dissipated them. When
+I knew him the sunny smile was there frequently, and was indeed
+his greatest personal adornment, but the tempers never reached
+the surface. He had become master of his fate and captain of his
+soul.
+
+In 1886 Scott became a middy on the _Boadicea_, and later on various
+ships, one of them the _Rover_, of which Admiral Fisher was at
+that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection of a little
+black pig having been found under his bunk one night. He cannot
+swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was certainly
+one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a punishment.
+In 1888 Scott passed his examinations for sub-lieutenant, with
+four first-class honours and one second, and so left his boyhood
+behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion to
+these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld
+[Page 11]
+Thomson that gives a very attractive glimpse of him in this same
+year:
+
+'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find my
+way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up and
+the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found tramp
+steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians hurrying off
+to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked a very unpleasant lot
+of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing Frisco toughs joined
+me in my cabin, which was none too large for a single person. I was
+then told that yet another had somehow to be wedged in. While I
+was wondering if he could be a more ill-favored or dirtier specimen
+of humanity than the others the last comer suddenly appeared--the
+jolliest and breeziest English naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con
+Scott. I had never seen him before, but we at once became friends
+and remained so till the end. He was going up to join his ship
+which, I think, was the _Amphion_, at Esquimault, B. C.
+
+'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full
+gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was so
+overcrowded that a large number of women and children were allowed
+to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on condition
+that they got up early, so that the rest of the passengers could
+come in for breakfast and the other meals.
+
+'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a woman
+was able to get up, and the
+[Page 12]
+saloon was soon in an indescribable condition. Practically no attempt
+was made to serve meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves
+mostly out of action from drink or sea-sickness.
+
+'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent
+their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some of
+our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share
+of the waves that were washing the deck.
+
+'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human
+being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took
+command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as their
+Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of volunteers
+he led an attack on the saloon--dressed the mothers, washed the
+children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors and nursed the
+sick, and performed every imaginable service for all hands. On
+deck he settled the quarrels and established order either by his
+personality, or, if necessary, by his fists. Practically by day
+and night he worked for the common good, never sparing himself,
+and with his infectious smile gradually made us all feel the whole
+thing was jolly good fun.
+
+'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself who,
+after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds the
+vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing
+blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself for
+the welfare and happiness of others.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 13]
+THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+[Illustration: THE 'DISCOVERY'. Reproduced from a drawing by Dr.
+E. A. Wilson.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE _DISCOVERY_
+
+  Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore
+  Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore.
+
+In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave in
+London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the Buckingham
+Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first time of a
+prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following day he called
+upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of this eventful
+visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there was a remarkable
+coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant of the _Majestic_. I
+was just sitting down to write to my old friend Captain Egerton[1]
+about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command
+the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great a
+trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply
+and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed
+a foregone conclusion.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.]
+
+The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir
+[Page 16]
+Clements and Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of
+his cousin, the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the
+acquaintance of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised
+it. During the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott
+more than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down
+as a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir
+Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy
+stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this
+Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead it. So
+when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank of Commander,
+and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the work that was
+waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed from the shoulders
+of the man who had not only proposed the expedition, but had also
+resolved that nothing should prevent it from going.
+
+Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered
+before the _Discovery_ could start upon her voyage. First and foremost
+was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable efforts the
+financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of 1899. Later
+on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy with the
+objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him that
+the Government eventually agreed to contribute £45,000, provided
+that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions.
+
+In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the
+[Page 17]
+special Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition,
+was laid in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite
+beginning, at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had
+taken up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control
+over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition, the
+only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday. A visit
+to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions from Dr.
+Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there he discovered
+that the German expedition, which was to sail from Europe at the same
+time as his own, was already in an advanced state of preparation.
+Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to England and found, as
+he had expected, that all the arrangements, which were in full
+swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill in England. The
+construction of the ship was the only work that was progressing,
+and even in this there were many interruptions from the want of
+some one to give immediate decisions on points of detail.
+
+A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on November
+4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and the Royal
+Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left Scott practically
+with a free hand to push on the work in every department, under a
+given estimate of expenditure in each. To safeguard the interests
+of the two Societies the resolution provided that this expenditure
+should be supervised by a Finance Committee,
+[Page 18]
+and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties
+were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests
+to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally
+arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it is mere
+justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its members
+began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of the undertaking.
+
+In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as possible,
+the various members of the expedition. Before he had left the _Majestic_
+he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the intention as regards
+the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody them from the R.N.? I
+sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set his heart on obtaining a
+naval crew, partly because he thought that their sense of discipline
+would be invaluable, but also because he doubted his ability to
+deal with any other class of men.
+
+The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that
+Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not from
+any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions of principle
+and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance in this respect
+was limited to two officers, Scott himself and Royds, then the
+limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer, a carpenter and
+a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval nucleus was obtained.
+But it was not until the spring of 1901 that the Admiralty, thanks to
+Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald Douglas, gave in altogether,
+and as the selection of
+[Page 19]
+the most fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men
+did not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing.
+
+For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters
+in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal in
+Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges,
+ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while
+tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples
+of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily
+on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes
+depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly
+be ready to start at the required date.
+
+During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction
+of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and the
+carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous small
+difficulties that arose in connection with the building of the
+ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also been filled
+up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in many places.
+Some men were working on their especial subjects in the British
+Museum, others were preparing themselves at the Physical Laboratory
+at Kew, and others, again, were traveling in various directions
+both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs the central office
+was obliged to take notice, and so for its occupants idle moments
+were few and very far between. Nansen said once that the hardest work
+[Page 20]
+of a Polar voyage came in its preparation, and during the years
+1900-1, Scott found ample cause to agree with him. But in spite
+of conflicting interests, which at times threatened to wreck the
+well-being of the expedition, work, having been properly organized,
+went steadily forward; until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel was
+launched at Dundee and named the '_Discovery_' by Lady Markham.
+
+In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best plan
+was to revive some time-honoured title, and that few names were more
+distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of that name,
+and inherited a long record of honourable and fortunate service.
+
+The _Discovery_ had been nothing more than a skeleton when it was
+decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London;
+consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought
+round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East
+India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores
+were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined
+to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was
+laden.
+
+Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen
+strongly recommended a vessel of the _Fram_ type with fuller lines
+for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed to
+consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had very
+sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's
+[Page 21]
+celebrated _Fram_ was built for the specific object of remaining
+safely in the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures
+which were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object
+was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of the
+vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure
+merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this design
+was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation that its
+conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What, however, has
+been generally forgotten is that the safety of the _Fram_ was secured
+at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers of ice-penetration.
+
+Since the _Fram_ was built there have been two distinct types of
+Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security in
+the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to sail
+the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs. And
+a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which of
+these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration, because
+it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all be prepared
+to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and then be ready
+to force her way through the ice-floes to the mysteries beyond.
+
+By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances, the
+old _Discovery_ (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the best ship
+that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the Ship Committee
+eventually decided that the new vessel should be built on more
+[Page 22]
+or less the same lines. The new _Discovery_ had the honour to be
+the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration, and the
+decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was more than
+justified by her excellent qualities.
+
+The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had to
+be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the ship
+gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass of solid
+wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting. No single
+tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the several trees
+used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent of a solid
+block. In further preparation for the battle with ice-floes, the
+stem itself and the bow for three or four feet on either side were
+protected with numerous steel plates, so that when the ship returned
+to civilization not a scratch remained to show the hard knocks
+received by the bow.
+
+The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration. In
+the outline drawing of the _Discovery_ will be seen how largely
+the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than
+in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted
+was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging
+a large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the
+bows were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship
+acting downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would drop,
+and gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against the
+[Page 23]
+next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the elasticity
+and strength to thrust its way without injury through the thick
+Polar ice.
+
+In Dundee the building of the _Discovery_ aroused the keenest interest,
+and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an entirely new
+feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the strongest criticism.
+All sorts of misfortunes were predicted, but events proved that
+this overhanging rounded form of stem was infinitely superior for
+ice-work to the old form of stem, because it gave better protection
+to the rudder, rudder post and screw, and was more satisfactory
+in heavy seas.
+
+[Illustration: PROFILE DRAWING OF 'DISCOVERY'.]
+
+[Illustration: OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF 'DISCOVERY' AND 'FRAM'.]
+
+Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the _Discovery_
+the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,' was
+an important place. For the best of reasons it was important that
+the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should be as
+accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood that magnetic
+observations cannot be taken in a place closely surrounded by iron.
+The ardor of the magnetic experts on the Ship Committee had led
+them at first to ask that there should be neither iron nor steel
+in the vessel, but after it had been pointed out that this could
+scarcely be, a compromise was arrived at and it was agreed that
+no magnetic materials should be employed within thirty feet of
+the observatory. This decision caused immense trouble and expense,
+but in the end it was justified, for the magnetic observations
+taken on board throughout the voyage
+[Page 25]
+required very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic
+experts were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from
+them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened
+with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the ship was
+on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into dire disgrace,
+not because it was too talkative, but because it had been hanging
+on the mess-deck during a whole set of observations, and the wires
+of its cage were made of iron.
+
+The _Discovery_ was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel ever
+built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about
+his officers and men as he was about the ship herself.
+
+The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small
+wardroom of the _Discovery_ was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage, R.N.R.
+He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship
+training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience;
+for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in
+1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth
+Expedition to Franz-Josef Land.
+
+Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service
+in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were
+expected to be light, he combined them with those of official botanist.
+
+The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook
+or crook all the strange beasts
+[Page 26]
+that inhabit the Polar seas, and no greater enthusiast for his work
+could have been chosen.
+
+Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do
+with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in
+the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war.
+Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face of
+great difficulties he secured the most valuable records.
+
+Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott in
+the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the expedition
+had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted for a voyage
+where there were many elements of dangers and difficulty.'
+
+The original idea in appointing two doctors to the _Discovery_ was
+that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party.
+This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason
+to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed
+was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which arose
+between them, and which in the end was destined to make history, it
+is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is believed to
+be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter headed
+'At sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who will do
+great things some day--Wilson. He has quite the keenest intellect
+on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know his artistic
+talent, but would be surprised at
+[Page 27]
+the speed at which he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which
+he is always at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps
+with any job that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow
+all round.
+
+Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate
+zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity he
+dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the second
+he produced a very large number of excellent pictures and sketches
+of the wild scenes among which he was living.
+
+One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to
+apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer.
+At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and his
+appointment to the _Discovery_ was most fortunate in every way. From
+first to last there was no serious difficulty with the machinery
+or with anything connected with it.
+
+The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition a
+short time before the _Discovery_ sailed, and the physicist, Louis
+Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand.
+
+In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout
+the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was obliged
+to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was taken by
+George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the Navy when
+he joined.
+
+Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson,
+[Page 28]
+who was thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members
+of the wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that
+time Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar
+service. Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced
+as the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his
+last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is the
+younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says he never
+felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between 30 and
+40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course. He is
+29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember that Peary
+was 52!'
+
+The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three
+years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen, and
+Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers, petty
+officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval discipline
+that is very necessary for such conditions as exist in Polar service.
+The _Discovery_, it must be remembered, was not in Government
+employment, and so had no more stringent regulations to enforce
+discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping Act. But
+everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was under the
+Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known that this
+state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much credit as
+the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously to observe
+it.
+
+[Page 29]
+Something remains to be said about the _Discovery's_ prospective
+course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott.
+
+For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested that
+the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants, to be
+named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and the
+Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant should
+be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was received
+with such unanimous approval that long before the _Discovery_ was
+built her prospective course had been finally decided. In fact
+every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in the
+Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions
+on such a voyage as the _Discovery's_ it may be thought that, when
+once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better.
+Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom
+to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general
+view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the various
+objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is clearly to
+the commander's advantage to know in what light these interests
+are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise. Of such a
+nature were the instructions Scott received before sailing for
+the South.
+
+During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable
+assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid it is
+doubtful if the _Discovery_ would ever have started had it not been
+[Page 30]
+that among these helpers was one who, from the first, had given
+his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand. After all
+is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the idea of this
+Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful personality which
+swept aside all obstacles and obstructions.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 31]
+CHAPTER II
+
+SOUTHWARD HO!
+
+  They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,
+  They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.
+  Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away.
+  And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay.
+  --NEWBOLT.
+
+On July 31, 1901, the _Discovery_ left the London Docks, and slowly
+wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5, she
+was honoured by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.
+This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties
+showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time
+it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed
+by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets and
+return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage were
+also not to be forgotten--a voyage to the Antarctic, the very map
+of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93.
+
+With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following
+on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and
+James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the
+Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered
+therefore that his great anxieties were
+[Page 32]
+to be off and doing, to justify the existence of the expedition at
+the earliest possible moment, and to obey the instructions which
+had been given him?
+
+Before the _Discovery_ had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was evident
+that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions,
+and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on
+the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to take
+full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the first
+exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback, as it had
+been confidently expected that there would be ample time to make
+trial of various devices for sounding and dredging in the deep
+sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact that no trials
+could be made on the outward voyage was severely felt when the
+Antarctic was reached.
+
+On October 2 the _Discovery_ arrived within 150 miles of the Cape,
+and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's Bay.
+The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons
+with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to
+be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at the
+Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our own
+observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time for such
+repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances, could
+alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne, however,
+worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received so much
+valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish a maximum
+[Page 33]
+amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.' In every
+way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the Cape.
+
+The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later
+the _Discovery_ once more put out to sea; and as time went on those
+on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy qualities.
+Towards the end of October there was a succession of heavy following
+gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous seas that followed
+in her wake, and, considering her size, she was wonderfully free
+of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following sea, however,
+she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and rolls of
+more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape of the stern,
+to which reference has been made, was now well tested. It gave
+additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing the ship to rise
+more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting effect was also
+directed to throwing the ship off her course, and consequently
+she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually became more
+expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other officers were
+on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was immediately swept by
+a monstrous sea which made a clean breach over her. Instinctively
+those on the bridge clutched the rails, and for several moments
+they were completely submerged while the spray dashed as high as
+the upper topsails.
+
+On November 12 the _Discovery_ was in lat. 51 S., long. 131 E.,
+and had arrived in such an extremely
+[Page 34]
+interesting magnetic area that they steered to the south to explore
+it. This new course took them far out of the track of ships and
+towards the regions of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those
+lonely waters when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking
+and a voice shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give
+any details of this alarming news the informant fled, and when
+Scott appeared hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was
+very dark and obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom
+were as ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered
+that the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily
+extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these
+days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of
+fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too
+serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth
+the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this was
+the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised in the
+_Discovery_.
+
+On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the following
+morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic shape by the
+action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with much excitement
+and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs of a heavier pack
+were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were all about the ship,
+and she was pushing her way amongst them and receiving her baptism
+of ice.
+
+[Page 35]
+This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded
+how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings.
+'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in a
+ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and again
+a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding of the
+floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more subdued
+hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for the first
+time we felt something of the solemnity of these great Southern
+solitudes.'
+
+The _Discovery_ was now within 200 miles of Adélie Land, and with
+steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But delays had already
+been excessive, and they could not be added to if New Zealand was
+to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's head was again turned
+towards the North, and soon passed into looser ice.
+
+One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans
+is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are these
+roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but in the
+majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for hours gather
+close about her. The greater number are of the petrel tribe, and
+vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their huge spread
+of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson stormy petrel,
+which flits under the foaming crests of the waves. For centuries
+these birds have been the friends of sailors, and as Wilson was
+able to distinguish and
+[Page 36]
+name the various visitors to the _Discovery_, the interest of the
+voyage was very greatly increased.
+
+'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report of
+the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island,
+exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory
+fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised so
+much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the few
+hours necessary for landing would be amply justified.... A landing
+was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin rookeries which
+had been observed from the ship were explored with much interest.
+One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully marked King penguin,
+while the other contained a smaller gold-crested broad-billed
+species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned to the ship, and shortly
+after we weighed anchor and proceeded. Including those collected
+in the ice, we had no fewer than 50 birds of various sorts to be
+skinned, and during the next few days several officers and men
+were busily engaged in this work under the superintendence of Dr.
+Wilson. The opportunity was taken of serving out the flesh of the
+penguins for food. I had anticipated considerable prejudice on
+the part of the men to this form of diet which it will so often
+be essential to enforce, and was agreeably surprised to find that
+they were by no means averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent,
+and all seemed to appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste
+for it. I found no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my
+own.'
+
+[Page 37]
+Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to
+Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was most
+comically divided between a desire to run away from the penguins,
+and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved him to be very
+courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and last experience
+of penguins, for it was felt that he would be unable to live in
+the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was found for him in New
+Zealand.
+
+Late on November 29 the _Discovery_ arrived off Lyttelton Heads,
+and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty in the
+harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which was
+shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of gratitude
+can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in every possible
+way, efficient and kindly assistance was given, and this was all
+the more valuable because a lot of work had to be done before the
+ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging had to be thoroughly
+overhauled and refitted; the magneticians had to undertake the
+comparison of their delicate instruments, and as this was the last
+occasion on which it could be done special attention was necessary;
+and a large quantity of stores had to be shipped, because some of
+those in the _Discovery_ had been damaged by the leaky state of
+the ship. This leak had never been dangerous, but all the same
+it had entailed many weary hours of pumping, and had caused much
+waste of time and of provisions. Among the many skilled
+[Page 38]
+workmen, whose united labour had produced the solid structure of
+the _Discovery_'s hull, had been one who had shirked his task, and
+although the ship was docked and most determined and persistent
+efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded in avoiding detection.
+
+As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a very
+busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton arrived,
+though not for the final departure from civilization, because a
+short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the south to complete
+the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, the ship lay alongside
+the wharf ready for sea and very deeply laden. 'One could reflect
+that it would have been impossible to have got more into her, and
+that all we had got seemed necessary for the voyage, for the rest
+we could only trust that Providence would vouch-safe to us fine
+weather and an easy passage to the south.'
+
+New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm for the
+expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of the _Discovery_,
+while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with passengers, and
+with bands playing and whistles hooting, also accompanied her,
+until the open sea was reached and the _Discovery_ slowly steamed
+out between the war-ships that seemed to stand as sentinels to
+the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands of friends were
+hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy happened. Among
+the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging to wave their
+farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner, who,
+[Page 39]
+more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the crow's-nest
+to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the truck, he had
+remained cheering, until in a moment of madness he raised himself
+into a standing position, and almost directly afterwards he fell
+and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday the ship arrived
+at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with naval honours.
+
+By noon on the following day the _Discovery_ was clear of the harbor
+bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail towards the
+south. The last view of civilization, the last sight of fields and
+flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and Christmas
+Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern Ocean, though
+after such a recent parting from so many kind friends no one felt
+inclined for the customary festivities.
+
+In good sea trim the _Discovery_ had little to fear from the worst
+gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had she
+encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very unpleasant.
+Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have been lost; the
+masses of wood on the superstructure would have been in great danger,
+while all the sheep and possibly many of the dogs would have been
+drowned. Fine weather, however, continued, and on January 3 Scott
+and his companions crossed the Antarctic Circle, little thinking
+how long a time would elapse before they would recross it. At length
+they had entered the Antarctic regions; before them lay
+[Page 40]
+the scene of their work, and all the trials of preparation, and
+the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the fact that they had
+reached their goal in time to make use of the best part of the
+short open season in these icebound regions.
+
+Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that
+there were many large pools of open water. And then for several
+days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high
+praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect gem
+in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem to give
+quite the best combination possible for such a purpose. We have
+certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we have come
+through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with a gale of
+wind behind him.'
+
+Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack, and
+the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual
+interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors was
+the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage relieved
+only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These little
+birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern fulmar
+and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that unwholesome
+scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by; while the skua
+gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally flapped past, on
+his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge his hard-earned
+dinner.
+
+The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at
+[Page 41]
+first afar and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity
+drew them to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little
+visitors would again and again leap into the water, and journey
+from floe to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange
+apparition could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in
+imitating their calls, and could not only attract them from a long
+distance, but would visibly add to their astonishment when they
+approached. These were busy days for the penguins.
+
+In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours
+asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or white
+seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there is found
+the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins and even
+on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious to observe
+that both seals and penguins regard themselves as safe when out of
+the water. In the sea they are running risks all the time, and in
+that element Nature has made them swift to prey or to avoid being
+preyed upon. But once on ice or land they have known no enemy,
+and cannot therefore conceive one. The seal merely raises its head
+when anyone approaches, and then with but little fear; whereas it
+is often difficult to drive the penguin into the water, for he
+is firmly convinced that the sea is the sole source of danger.
+Several seals were killed for food, and from the first seal-meat
+was found palatable, if not altogether the form of diet to recommend
+to an epicure. The great drawback to the seal is that there is no
+fat except blubber,
+[Page 42]
+and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell.
+At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste
+and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked
+with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this
+smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver
+and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries.
+
+On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen, and
+soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft the glad
+tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship entered
+a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces, and after
+pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached the hard
+line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south nothing but
+a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same evening the
+joy of being again in the open sea was intensified by a shout of
+'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly gathered
+there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent. The
+sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless sky, and
+far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high mountain
+peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was now directed for
+Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing to the reappearance
+of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was eventually steered into
+the open water within the bay.
+
+Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare, within
+which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea, is a curious
+triangular
+[Page 43]
+spit, probably the morainic remains of the vaster ice conditions
+of former ages. It was on this spit that the expedition sent forth
+by Sir George Newnes and commanded by Borchgrevink spent their
+winter in 1896, the first party to winter on the shores of the
+Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided to land for a short time,
+and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and Barne were at work among
+the thousands of penguins that abounded, while the naturalists
+wandered further afield in search of specimens. In the center of
+Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members of Borchgrevink's
+party was still found to be standing in very good condition, though
+at the best of times deserted dwellings are far from cheerful to
+contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member of this small party of
+eight, and on the spot he recalled the past, and told of the unhappy
+death of Hanson--one of his comrades.
+
+Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's
+grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder
+containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were told
+to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the following
+year this cylinder was found by the _Morning_,[1] and so the first
+information was given that the _Discovery_ had succeeded in reaching
+these southern regions.
+
+[Footnote 1: The relief ship.]
+
+On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the ship
+again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape Adare
+in the hope of finding
+[Page 44]
+a clear channel near at hand. Very soon, however, the tidal stream
+began to make from the south, and the whole aspect of the streams
+of heavy pack-ice rapidly changed. Almost immediately the pack was
+about the ship, and she was being rapidly borne along with it.
+Across the entrance to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs,
+and it was in this direction that she was being carried. For the
+first time they faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its
+mighty powers. Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around
+them were heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and
+turn as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in
+front of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for
+nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained
+aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room, as
+usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the _Discovery_
+exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in spite of these
+efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost certain that
+she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was one of those
+hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for ever on the memory.
+Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, its rays were reflected
+from a myriad points of tire glistening pack; behind us lay the
+lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown sun-kissed cliffs of the Cape,
+and the placid glassy waters of the bay; the air about us was almost
+breathlessly still; crisp, clear and sun-lit, it seemed an atmosphere
+in which all Nature should rejoice;
+[Page 45]
+the silence was broken only by the deep panting of our engines
+and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes; yet, beneath
+all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us on to possible
+destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that danger could exist
+in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one paced to and fro on
+the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted our bridge, it was
+difficult to persuade oneself that we were so completely impotent.'
+
+With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually
+on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour was
+early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below, happily
+oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the fact that
+they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely made in
+the _Discovery_, if it could by any conceivable means be avoided.
+
+At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it came
+so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened. Little
+by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked floes fell
+slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the ship began
+to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For me,' Scott
+adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no doubt, a salutary
+one; we were here to fight the elements with their icy weapons,
+and once and for all this taught me not to undervalue the enemy.'
+During the forenoon the ship was within seven or eight miles of
+the high bold coast-line to the south of Cape Adare, but later
+she had to be turned outwards
+[Page 46]
+so that the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could
+be avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the
+land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross
+had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty to
+talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to a brisk
+S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being used.
+
+Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that
+of coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to use
+only one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was saved but
+time was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the _Discovery_
+could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on the 12th she
+scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had increased and
+a heavy swell was coming up from the south.
+
+To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs
+of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as
+they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines
+were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from the
+cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their sledge
+journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as regards
+distance, and what very false appearances distant objects could
+assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that Polar
+explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the evidence of
+their own eyes, and it also explains the errors which the _Discovery_
+expedition found to
+[Page 47]
+have been made by former explorers, and which they knew must have
+been made in all good faith.
+
+During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of
+Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to such
+a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs with
+such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to keep her
+in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon the wind
+force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued to lose ground
+they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the spray over them
+in showers, to freeze as it fell.
+
+Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg they
+were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of another. As
+they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear of its pinnacled
+sides, and they took the shock broad on their bows. It sent the
+ship reeling round, but luckily on the right tack to avoid further
+complications. The following night was dismal enough; again and
+again small bergs appeared through the blinding spray and drift, and
+only with great difficulty could the unmanageable ship be brought
+to clear them. Even gales, however, must have an end, and towards
+morning the wind moderated, and once more they were able to steam
+up close to the island. And there, between two tongues of ice off
+Cape Wadworth, they landed on the steep rocks and erected a staff
+bearing a tin cylinder with a further record of the voyage. By
+the time this had been done the wind had fallen completely, and in
+[Page 48]
+the evening the ship entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and
+the barrier-ice, and later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet
+in the barrier-ice itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered
+spot, and night, as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was
+turned into day so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed
+a terrible desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot
+only to murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow
+with blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity,
+for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals would
+be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and undoubtedly
+the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food.
+
+While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being
+obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out to
+sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told that
+the work was completed, but that some five hours before Wilson,
+Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and that no one
+had thought of picking them up. Although the sun had been shining
+brightly all night, the temperature had been down to 18°, and afar
+off Scott could see four disconsolate figures tramping about, and
+trying to keep themselves warm on a detached floe not more than
+fifteen yards across.
+
+When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very
+evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been warmed
+by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences. They
+[Page 49]
+had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when they
+thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that they
+had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they were
+dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson, who
+did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing fire
+with a small pocket magnifying glass--a performance which testified
+not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power of the sun
+in these latitudes.
+
+On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from
+the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in
+the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A
+way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison,
+among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen; across
+the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald, while
+to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform outline
+of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost perfect
+volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no competing
+height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the most magnificent
+landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold, sharp headland,
+projects from the foot of the mountain on its eastern side, and
+finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott decided to turn to the
+south to pass around this cape.
+
+From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting,
+since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically
+unknown. Pack-ice was
+[Page 50]
+still a formidable obstacle, but on the 20th the _Discovery_ pushed
+her way into an inlet where she met ice which had been formed inside
+and but recently broken up. The ice was perfectly smooth, and as
+it showed absolutely no sign of pressure there was no doubting
+that this inlet would make a secure wintering harbor. Already a
+latitude had been reached in which it was most desirable to find
+safe winter quarters for the ship. In England many people had thought
+that Wood Bay would be the most southerly spot where security was
+likely to be found, but Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to
+the south of that place to realize the impossibility of traveling
+along it in sledges, and to convince him that if any advance to
+the south was to be made, a harbor in some higher latitude must
+be found.
+
+This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and
+secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his thankfulness
+that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded as we should
+have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have obtained only the
+most local records of climatic conditions, and our meteorological
+observations would have been comparatively valueless; but the greatest
+drawback would have been that we should be completely cut off from
+traveling over the sea-ice beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It
+is when one remembers how naturally a decision to return to this
+place might have been made, that one sees how easily the results
+of the expedition might have been missed.'
+
+[Page 51]
+It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default
+of a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so
+with Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle
+with the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo
+Sound, and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared
+from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now
+within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their
+winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they
+returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought
+we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal
+in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before
+us lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay
+beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 52]
+CHAPTER III
+
+IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS
+
+  Beholde I see the haven near at hand
+  To which I mean my wearie course to bend;
+  Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land
+  To which afore is fairly to be ken'd.
+  --SPENSER, Faerie Queene.
+
+In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had
+already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A
+coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance,
+and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard to
+its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of mountains;
+and the positions and forms of individual heights, with the curious
+ice formations and the general line of the coast, had been observed.
+In short the map of the Antarctic had already received valuable
+additions, and whatever was to happen in the future that, at any
+rate, was all to the good.
+
+At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the
+westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post
+and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so
+that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing had
+[Page 53]
+been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the center
+of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the sea, and
+here the post was set up and anchored with numerous boulders. In
+spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few hundred yards it
+was almost impossible to distinguish it; but although this small
+post on the side of a vast mountain looked a hopeless clue, it
+eventually brought the _Morning_ into McMurdo Sound.
+
+While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and
+began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set off
+in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and Wilson
+scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of the highest
+of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded by a first view
+of the Great Ice Barrier.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of
+still greater length.]
+
+'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before us in
+the south we were most keenly interested in solving the mysteries
+of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been discussed
+and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on the slender
+foundation of fact which alone the meager information concerning it
+could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary ice-formation
+was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight and the very
+vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to our sense of
+its mystery.'
+
+Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the
+[Page 54]
+ice-face of the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed
+it was arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the
+ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe
+and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four
+hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this
+manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit of
+the barrier was made.
+
+On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they were
+far more eager to gain new information than to prove that old
+information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began to arise
+against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described as 'probably
+higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was known with absolute
+certainty that these mountains did not exist. This error on the part
+of such a trustworthy and cautious observer, Scott ascribes to
+the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the height of the barrier,
+was led to suppose that anything seen over it at a distance must
+be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds, 'whatever the cause, the
+facts show again how deceptive appearances may be and how easily
+errors may arise. In fact, as I have said before, one cannot always
+afford to trust the evidence of one's own eyes.' Though the ship
+was steaming along this ice-wall for several days, the passage was
+not in the least monotonous, because new variations were continually
+showing themselves, and all of them had to be carefully observed and
+recorded. This work continued for several days until, on January
+29, they arrived at a particularly interesting place, to
+[Page 55]
+the southward and eastward of the extreme position reached by Ross
+in 1842. From that position he had reported a strong appearance
+of land to the southeast, and consequently all eyes were directed
+over the icy cliffs in that direction. But although the afternoon
+was bright and clear, nothing from below or from aloft could be
+seen, and the only conclusion to be made was that the report was
+based on yet another optical illusion.
+
+But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report that
+Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations, there was
+on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense of impending
+change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening, and we could not
+fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had not so far encountered
+the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported in this region, and that
+consequently we were now sailing in an open sea into an unknown
+world.'
+
+The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came at
+8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and becoming
+more and more irregular continued in that direction for about five
+miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into the deep bay
+thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached they saw at
+once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot descended
+to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the water, and behind
+it the snow surface rose in long undulating slopes to rounded ridges,
+the heights of which could only be guessed. Whatever doubt remained
+in their minds that this was snow-covered land, a sounding of 100
+fathoms quickly removed it.
+
+[Page 56]
+But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there
+was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy
+outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce
+optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe,
+a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what
+lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the
+fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen,
+and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal that
+two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken
+for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till
+someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all
+glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous,
+until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more definite
+shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at real live
+rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered land.... It is
+curious to reflect now on the steps which led us to the discovery
+of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence which came to us
+before the actual land itself was seen: at first there had been
+the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently rising snow-slopes,
+of which, in the nature of things, one is obliged to retain a doubt;
+then the steeper broken slopes of snow, giving a contrast to convey
+a surer evidence to the eye; and, finally the indubitable land
+itself, but even then surrounded with such mystery as to leave us
+far from complete satisfaction with our discovery.'
+
+[Page 57]
+The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost
+irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them,
+Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back
+along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than
+on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed on
+the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon ascent
+were made. 'The honour,' Scott says, 'of being the first aeronaut to
+make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps somewhat selfishly,
+I chose for myself, and I may further confess that in so doing
+I was contemplating the first ascent I had made in any region,
+and as I swayed about in what appeared a very inadequate basket
+and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures below, I felt
+some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.'
+
+If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut,
+it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the barrier
+surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he discovered
+that instead of the continuous level plain that he had expected,
+it continued in a series of long undulations running approximately
+east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface. Later on, however,
+when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage returned, they reported
+that these undulations were not gradual as had been supposed from
+the balloon, but that the crest of each wave was flattened into a
+long plateau, from which the descent into the succeeding valley
+was comparatively sharp. On the evening of the 4th they put out
+[Page 58]
+to sea again, and on the 8th they were once more in McMurdo Sound,
+with high hopes that they would soon find a sheltered nook in which
+the _Discovery_ could winter safely, and from which the sledge-parties
+could set forth upon the task of exploring the vast new world around
+them.
+
+Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate surroundings,
+and found a little bay which promised so well for the winter that
+Scott's determination to remain in this region was at once strengthened.
+The situation, however, was surrounded with difficulties, for although
+the ice had broken far afield it refused to move out of the small
+bay on which they had looked with such eager eyes; consequently
+they were forced to cling to the outskirts of the bay with their
+ice-anchors, in depths that were too great to allow the large anchors
+to be dropped to the bottom. The weather also was troublesome,
+for after the ship had lain quietly during several hours a sudden
+squall would fling her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting
+the ice-anchors, would ultimately send her adrift.
+
+In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position,
+steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted
+mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in pieces.
+The original intention had been that the _Discovery_ should not
+winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and turn
+northward before the season closed, and for this party a large hut
+had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to keep the
+[Page 59]
+ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be
+made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since
+until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her off
+her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking winter
+quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly convinced that
+the season was closing in. 'With no experience to guide us, our
+opinion could only be based on the very severe and unseasonable
+conditions which we had met with to the east. But now to our
+astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy freezing of the bay;
+the summer seemed to have taken a new lease, and for several weeks
+the fast sea-ice continued to break silently and to pass quietly
+away to the north in large floes.'
+
+In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which
+had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together.
+The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was
+so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot of
+persuasion before the joints would fit.
+
+On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all the
+dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below the
+huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be done,
+and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The hut-building
+is slow work, and much of our time has been taken in securing the
+ship.... Names have been given to the various landmarks in our
+vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be called "Cape Armitage,"
+after our excellent navigator. The sharp hill above it
+[Page 60]
+is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the "Gap," through which
+we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively low level. North
+of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher volcanic peak
+beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet in height. Our
+protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with "Arrival Bay" on
+the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south; above "Arrival
+Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue with breaks for
+about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond which rises the most
+conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a high, precipitous-sided
+rock with a flat top, which has been dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is
+1,350 feet in height.
+
+'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible
+to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton
+is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the
+men run him close.'
+
+On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went out,
+and on their return three days later they were so excited by their
+experiences that some time passed before they could answer the
+questions put to them. Although the temperature had not been severe
+they had nearly got into serious trouble by continuing their march
+in a snowstorm, and when they did stop to camp they were so exhausted
+that frost-bites were innumerable. The tent had been difficult to
+get up, and all sorts of trouble with the novel cooking apparatus
+had followed. 'It is strange now,' Scott wrote three years later,
+'to look back on
+[Page 61]
+these first essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered
+we were by want of experience.'
+
+By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as a
+quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal, had been
+landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and arrangements for
+the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself, were pushed forward.
+The object of this journey was to try and reach the record at Cape
+Crozier over the barrier, and to leave a fresh communication there
+with details of the winter quarters. On the following day, however,
+Scott damaged his right knee while skiing, and had to give up all
+idea of going to Cape Crozier. 'I already foresaw how much there
+was to be learnt if we were to do good sledding work in the spring,
+and to miss such an opportunity of gaining experience was terribly
+trying; however, there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded
+limb and to determine that never again would I be so rash as to
+run hard snow-slopes on ski.'
+
+By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed. The
+party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton and
+Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each pulling
+a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again the want
+of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the lack of system
+was apparent. Though each requirement might have been remembered, all
+were packed in a confused mass, and, to use a sailor's expression,
+'everything was on top and nothing handy.'
+[Page 62]
+Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On looking
+back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so cheaply,
+for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as well as of
+discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our first sledge
+parties left the ship.'
+
+The days following the departure of the sledge party were exceptionally
+fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board the ship woke to
+find the wind blowing from the east; and in the afternoon the wind
+increased, and the air was filled with thick driving snow. This
+Tuesday was destined to be one of the blackest days spent by the
+expedition in the Antarctic, but no suspicion that anything untoward
+had happened to the sledge party arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there
+was a report that four men were walking towards the ship. Then the
+sense of trouble was immediate, and the first disjointed sentences
+of the newcomers were enough to prove that disasters had occurred.
+The men, as they emerged from their thick clothing, were seen to
+be Wild, Weller, Heald and Plumley, but until Scott had called
+Wild, who was the most composed of the party, aside, he could not
+get any idea of what had actually happened, and even Wild was too
+exhausted, and excited to give anything but a meager account.
+
+Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine, In
+charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day had reached
+the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock. In addition, Wild
+told him, to the four who had returned, the party had
+[Page 63]
+consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince. They had thought
+that they were quite close to the ship, and when the blizzard began
+they had left their tents and walked towards her supposed position.
+Then they found themselves on a steep slope and tried to keep close
+together, but it was impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare
+had disappeared, and a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and
+Quartley had left them to try to find out what had become of Evans,
+and neither of them had come back, though they waited. Afterwards
+they had gone on, and had suddenly found themselves at the edge
+of a precipice with the sea below; Vince had shot past over the
+edge. Wild feared all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had
+gone. Could he guide a search party to the scene of the accident?
+He thought he could--at any rate he would like to try.
+
+The information was little enough but it was something on which
+to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought
+until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before 9
+P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party, and
+Armitage took charge of it.
+
+Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was
+known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced.
+On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow,
+and after three days of excessive labour Royds had decided that
+the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but
+unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski
+[Page 64]
+with the party, and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with
+Koettlitz and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge
+of Barne.
+
+The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning
+party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were
+abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the
+top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when
+a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched.
+
+'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch
+little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour
+after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they expected
+each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents bodily away,
+and meanwhile the chill air crept through their leather boots and
+ill-considered clothing, and continually some frost-bitten limb
+had to be nursed back to life.'
+
+At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits,
+but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything
+into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make
+for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant.
+
+'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the
+men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as
+it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance
+than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they
+had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who
+[Page 65]
+had been at the rear of the party, was reported to be missing,
+and soon afterwards Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth
+ice, fell, and shot out of sight immediately.'
+
+Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were,
+sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track. In
+a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a pace
+that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush he had
+time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then his flight was
+arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within a few feet of him.
+They had scarcely exchanged greetings when the figure of Quartley
+came hurtling down upon them from the gloom, for he had started on
+the same track, and had been swept down in the same breathless
+and alarming manner. To return by the way they had come down was
+impossible, and so they decided to descend, but within four paces
+of the spot at which they had been brought to rest, they found
+that the slope ended suddenly in a steep precipice, beyond which
+nothing but clouds of snow could be seen. For some time after this
+they sat huddled together, forlornly hoping that the blinding drift
+would cease, but at last they felt that whatever happened they
+must keep on the move, and groping their way to the right they
+realized that the sea was at their feet, and that they had been
+saved from it by a patch of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff.
+Presently a short break in the storm enabled them to see Castle
+Rock above their heads, and slowly making their way
+[Page 66]
+up the incline, they sought the shelter of a huge boulder; and there,
+crouched together, they remained for several hours.
+
+Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the
+head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls
+of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they felt
+that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain where
+they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the leading
+spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained submitted
+themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him in single file
+as he again struck out in the direction in which they supposed the
+ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for about 500 yards,
+until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath his feet, and far
+below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. He sprang back with
+a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince had flashed past and
+disappeared.
+
+Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at all
+costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just come. All
+of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror, and wondered
+how it had ever been made. They could only hold themselves by the
+soles of their boots, and to slip to their knees meant inevitably
+to slide backwards towards the certain fate below. Literally their
+lives depended on each foothold. Wild alone had a few light nails
+in his boots, and to his great credit he used this advantage to
+give a helping hand in turn to each
+[Page 67]
+of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they did reach
+the top of the slope their troubles were not finished, for they
+were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild, however,
+again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that the party
+eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of snow. 'It
+is little wonder that after such an experience they should have
+been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.'
+
+The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search party
+on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully conscious
+of his inability to help on account of his injured leg, admits
+that he could not think of any further means to render assistance,
+but he says, 'as was always my experience in the _Discovery_, my
+companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon the shrill screams
+of the siren were echoing among the hills, and in ten minutes after
+the suggestion had been made, a whaler was swinging alongside ready
+to search the cliffs on the chance of finding Vince.
+
+But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there
+was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow, and
+fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without,
+and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost--Barne, Evans and
+Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having
+done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search
+was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of seeing
+[Page 68]
+Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be realized
+that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was also no
+disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might have happened.
+Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party were alive to
+tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley heard the
+faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its welcome sound
+made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge party would
+in all probability not have found them. All three of them were
+badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was in such a serious
+condition that for many days it was thought that his fingers would
+have to be amputated.
+
+The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March 13
+Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has happened.
+At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. At first we
+thought it must be some one who had been for an early walk; but
+it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly, and,
+immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were seen
+streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized the figure
+as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was on board.... We
+soon discovered that though exhausted, weak, and hungry, he was in
+full possession of his faculties and quite free from frost-bites.
+He went placidly off to sleep whilst objecting to the inadequacy
+of a milk diet.'
+
+Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained
+that he had left his companions
+[Page 69]
+to return to the sledges and get some leather boots, and had imagined
+that the others understood what he intended to do. Soon after he had
+started back he was wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that
+he was walking aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered
+was making for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and
+there he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though
+he required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of
+this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on
+raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks,
+and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards
+her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged to
+travel upon his hands and knees.
+
+But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally
+and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate,
+and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing
+to him, and it is something to think that death must have come
+quickly in the grip of that icy sea.'
+
+This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the
+three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when,
+on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The
+others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them were
+soon safely on board.
+
+On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to
+reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until
+it was evident that a better
+[Page 70]
+equipped party with more favorable weather would easily get to
+it. On comparing notes with his party, Scott recognized what a
+difference there might be in the weather conditions of places within
+easy reach of the ship, and not only in temperature but also in
+the force and direction of the wind. It had not occurred to anyone
+that within such a short distance of the ship any large difference
+of temperature was probable, and as the summer was barely over,
+Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton had only taken a light wolf-skin fur
+suit for night-wear. This, however, had proved totally inadequate
+when the thermometer fell to -42°, and on the night of the 16th
+uncontrollable paroxysms of shivering had prevented them from getting
+any sleep. The value of proper clothing and the wisdom of being
+prepared for the unexpected rigors of such a fickle climate, were
+two of the lessons learnt from the experiences of the Cape Crozier
+party.
+
+As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether
+the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such an
+advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected state of
+affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of their position
+was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since necessitated the
+extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a heavy gale drove the
+ship from her shelter, steam could only be raised with difficulty
+and after the lapse of many hours. There was, too, the possibility
+that the ship, if once driven off, would not be able to return,
+and so it was obviously unsafe
+[Page 71]
+to send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift
+most of them would be needed.
+
+Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet
+of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological
+screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific
+work which was such an important object of the expedition.
+
+At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort before
+the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a depôt
+of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring, but 'a
+more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had not been
+away already a practical insight into the difficulties of sledge
+traveling. But as this party would have to include the majority of
+those on board, he was forced to wait until the ship was firmly
+fixed, and it may be said that the _Discovery_ was as reluctant to
+freeze-in as she was difficult to get out when once the process
+had been completed.
+
+On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The
+sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice should
+become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have completed
+the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am pleased with
+their appearance; the packing is not neat enough, and we haven't
+got anything like a system.'
+
+Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each
+with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads
+were arranged on the theory
+[Page 72]
+of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs. to each dog, but they very
+quickly discovered that the dogs were not going to have anything
+to do with such a theory as this. The best of them would only pull
+about 50 lbs., and some of the others had practically to be pulled.
+
+Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and
+dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner
+of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement
+caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another
+reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing
+their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly
+cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great
+deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or
+two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to
+realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats
+grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled
+down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally
+thick woolly covering.
+
+The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men
+had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had
+no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however,
+was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the
+ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or
+another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing
+to show for our labours. The errors were patent; food, clothing,
+everything was
+[Page 73]
+wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that there would
+have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring, and it
+was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which this
+might be effected.'
+
+But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone
+resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the experience
+that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys subsequently
+made in the spring were largely due to the failures of the autumn.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 74]
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE POLAR WINTER
+
+  The cold ice slept below,
+  Above the cold sky shone,
+    And all around
+    With a chilling sound
+  From caves of ice and fields of snow
+  The breath of night like death did flow
+            Beneath the sinking moon.--SHELLEY.
+
+The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time
+could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by
+the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before
+the daylight vanished.
+
+One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological
+screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds.
+The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100
+yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which,
+with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of
+her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations
+was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition,
+and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded
+every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm
+[Page 75]
+some member of the community had to be on the alert, and every
+other hour to make the rounds of the various instruments. On a
+fine night this was no great hardship, but in stormy weather the
+task was not coveted by anyone. On such occasions it was necessary
+to be prepared to resist the wind and snowdrift, and the round
+itself was often full of exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials
+and tribulations of the meteorological observers were numerous,
+and it was arranged that throughout the winter each officer should
+take it in turn to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6
+A.M. Wilson nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation,
+but the lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides
+taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first
+winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations
+between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M.
+
+The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's
+special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying
+to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general
+reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain
+small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely be
+answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth is
+a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why it is
+a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and obviously
+the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a phenomenon is
+to study it. For many reasons the _Discovery_'s winter station in the
+[Page 76]
+Antarctic was an especially suitable place in which to record the
+phenomenon of magnetism.
+
+Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations
+had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during
+the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little
+company had settled down to a regular round of daily life.
+
+Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for
+the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after;
+during these hours all without exception are busily employed except
+for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would be difficult
+to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the palm would be
+given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough sketch made
+since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and detailed form,
+until we now possess a splendid pictorial representation of the
+whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At home many no doubt will
+remember the horrible depression of spirit that has sometimes been
+pictured as a pendant to the long polar night. We cannot even claim
+to be martyrs in this respect; with plenty of work the days pass
+placidly and cheerfully.'
+
+Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of
+the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were
+to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched
+from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration for
+the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is a
+thing assured. Our little society in the
+[Page 77]
+wardroom is governed by a spirit of good fellowship and patience
+which is all that the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly
+glad to be one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The
+absence of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout
+is beyond even my best expectation.'
+
+This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable
+feature of life during the time spent in the _Discovery_, and the
+only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We shipped
+him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained cook became
+too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly for the worse;
+I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is even worse, he
+is dirty--an unforgivable crime in a cook.'
+
+Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have
+been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather
+was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North
+Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in
+the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm
+days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little
+reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all of
+whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts,
+and to make the best of a long job.
+
+During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each
+day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's work
+ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,' the
+officers doing
+[Page 78]
+their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon the living-spaces
+were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were searched, and while
+the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became a 'snipe marsh.'
+At this time the holds also were cleared up, the bilges pumped
+out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh layer of clean
+snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled by the traffic
+of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands followed, and
+after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the time-honoured one
+of 'Sweethearts and Wives.'
+
+On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer or
+a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be different
+from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30 the decks
+had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and the first
+lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble imitation of
+the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection followed, and
+Scott had the greatest faith in this system of routine, not only
+because it had a most excellent effect on the general discipline and
+cleanliness of the ship, but also because it gave an opportunity
+to raise and discuss each new arrangement that was made to increase
+the comfort of all on board.
+
+After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was prepared
+for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all placed
+according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read the service,
+Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium.
+
+[Page 79]
+Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the
+feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus
+sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should last
+us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of the
+sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that
+we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites
+on Sunday.'
+
+On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the mess-deck
+was decorated with designs in coloured papers and festooned with
+chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes there was
+a great contest to have the best decorations, and some astonishing
+results were achieved with little more than brightly coloured papers,
+a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each table stood a grotesque
+figure or fanciful erection of ice, which was cunningly lighted up
+by candles from within and sent out shafts of sparkling light.
+'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the light-hearted scenes of to-day
+can end the first period of our captivity, what room for doubt
+is there that we shall triumphantly weather the whole term with
+the same general happiness and contentment?'
+
+During the winter months the _South Polar Times_, edited by Shackleton,
+appeared regularly, and was read with interest and amusement by
+everyone. At first it had been decided that each number should
+contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the events and
+meteorological conditions of the past month, some scientifically
+instructive articles dealing with the work
+[Page 80]
+and surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the
+scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures
+and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in
+connection with the _Times_ was that the men contributed as well as
+the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most amusing,
+articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck. But beyond
+all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson, who produced
+drawings that deserved--and ultimately obtained--a far wider
+appreciation than could be given to them in the Antarctic. So great
+was the desire to contribute to the first number of the _S. P. T._
+that the editor's box was crammed with manuscripts by the time
+the date for sending in contributions had arrived. From these there
+was no difficulty in making a selection, but as there was also some
+danger of hurting the feelings of those whose contributions had
+been rejected, a supplementary journal named _The Blizzard_ was
+produced. This publication, however, had but a brief career, for
+in spite of some good caricatures and a very humorous frontispiece
+by Barne, it was so inferior to the _S. P. T._ that even its
+contributors realized that their mission in life did not lie in
+the paths of literary composition. _The Blizzard_, in short, served
+its purpose, and then ceased to exist.
+
+In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable during
+the dark months, the question of artificial light was as difficult as
+it was important. Paraffin had from the first been suggested as the most
+[Page 81]
+suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage being that it is not
+a desirable oil to carry in quantities in a ship. 'Our luckiest
+find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right sort of lamp in which to
+burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic explorer, Captain Egerton,
+presented me with a patent lamp in which the draught is produced
+by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism, and no chimney is needed.
+One can imagine the great mortality there would be in chimneys
+if we were obliged to employ them, so that when, on trial, this
+lamp was found to give an excellent light, others of the same sort
+were purchased, and we now use them exclusively in all parts of
+the ship with extremely satisfactory results.'
+
+There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their reach
+in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain that
+they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic, did
+their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been provided
+for the hut, and which they had not previously thought of using.
+'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was relieved by
+a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue their occupations
+by the single burner placed in each compartment. I lay great stress
+on this, because I am confident that this is in every way the best
+illuminant that can be taken for a Polar winter, and no future
+expedition should fail to supply themselves with it.'
+
+As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to
+be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave
+in his diary a full and
+[Page 82]
+graphic account of the way he occupied himself during his 'night
+on.' 'Each of us has his own way of passing the long, silent hours.
+My own custom is to devote some of it to laundry-work, and I must
+confess I make a very poor fist of it. However, with a bath full
+of hot water, I commence pretty regularly after the ten o'clock
+observation, and labour away until my back aches. There is little
+difficulty with the handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles,
+but when it comes to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready
+to own my incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing
+at the same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff
+which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is
+never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is,
+and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring
+everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no light
+task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to the other;
+then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring until I can wring
+no more; but even so, after it has been hung for a few minutes
+on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin to drip merrily on
+the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh. I shall always have
+a high respect for laundry-work in future, but I do not think it
+can often have to cope with such thick garments as we wear.
+
+'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations.
+The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which are
+scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with tea or
+cocoa and a spirit-lamp.
+[Page 83]
+Everyone has his own ideas as to how sardines should be prepared...
+and I scarcely like to record that there is a small company of
+_gourmets_, who actually wake one another up in order that the
+night-watchman may present his fellow epicures with a small finger
+of buttered toast, on which are poised two sardines "done to a
+turn." The awakened sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts his
+satisfaction, and goes placidly off into dreamland again.
+
+'I find that after my labours at the wash-tub and the pleasing supper
+that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair without
+fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the ever-soothing pipe
+and one's latest demand on the library book-shelves, one settles
+down in great peace and contentment whilst keeping an eye on the
+flying hours, ready to sally forth into the outer darkness at the
+appointed time.
+
+'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely
+dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure,
+but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship,
+the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties, and
+to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with his
+inclination.
+
+'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced
+to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on
+the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious
+that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to
+stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature....
+[Page 84]
+These and many other difficulties in taking observations which may
+be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I think
+we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole whose value
+must stand or fall by attention to detail.'
+
+At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in a
+mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted
+out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in a
+line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice. The
+earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus for
+the next two months they remained in sight. But then another gale
+brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it in the
+neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found to be
+buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no feelings
+of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott ordered the
+snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until the first
+boat had been reached was the true state of affairs revealed. She
+was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which she was nearly
+filled, and though for a moment there was a wild hope that she
+could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the air temperature
+promptly converted the slush into hardened ice, and so she was
+stuck fast.
+
+Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats, because
+as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water would
+have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to worse
+before the summer brought hope with it, parties were
+[Page 85]
+engaged day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in
+the course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger
+was that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats
+so far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and
+after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all
+appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however,
+of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the ship,
+and also the feeling that so much labour must tell in the end, spurred
+on the diggers to renewed vigour, but it was not until December
+that the boats were finally liberated.
+
+Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible
+for an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again emphasized
+the bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the smaller
+compartment of the main hut completing a set of pendulum observations,
+while Royds was in the larger compartment--the hut was used for
+many and various purposes--rehearsing his nigger minstrel troupe.
+Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific work did not go
+hand in hand, or because their work was finished, Bernacchi and
+Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the hut to return
+to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards Royds and his
+troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back, and found that
+the gale had increased and that the whirling snow prevented them
+from seeing anything. Being, however, in such numbers, they were
+able to join hands and sweep along until they caught the guide-rope
+leading to the gangway;
+[Page 86]
+and then as they traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and
+again extending their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton,
+who, having entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting
+on the chance of being heard and rescued.
+
+The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter was not
+only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by guide-ropes and
+other means of direction, which if encountered would have informed
+the wanderers of their position. Additionally Bernacchi and Skelton
+could be trusted to take the most practical course in any difficulty,
+and so it seems the more incredible that they could actually have
+been lost for two hours. Both of them were severely frostbitten
+about the face and legs, but bitter as their experience was it
+served as yet another warning to those who were to go sledding
+in the spring that no risks could be taken in such a capricious
+climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing his troupe on this occasion
+the results to Bernacchi and Skelton must have been more disastrous
+than they were; consequently the idea of using the large hut as
+a place of entertainment was fortunate in more ways than one.
+
+During the first week of May a concert had been given in the hut,
+but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment; for Royds,
+who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had arranged
+a long program with the object of bringing to light any possible
+talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical had to
+confess that most of the performers would have
+[Page 87]
+been less out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability,
+however, was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing
+a play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy,
+was produced on June 25.
+
+This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy
+in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for
+one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been so
+gorgeously entertained.'
+
+Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe, and
+when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30 on August
+6, the temperature outside them was -40°, while inside it was well
+below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder that the
+audience was glad when the curtain went up.
+
+'There is no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance,
+'that sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had
+taken an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and
+"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable
+top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling a
+string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs led
+by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the very
+great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.'
+
+So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards
+to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days
+passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return.
+But on that
+[Page 88]
+day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded by whirling
+snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed by a wild
+burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone on board in
+such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be far over the
+hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be seen. The following
+day, however, was an ideal one for the first view of the long-absent
+sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater Hill to watch and welcome.
+'Over all the magnificent view the sunlight spreads with gorgeous
+effect after its long absence; a soft pink envelops the western
+ranges, a brilliant red gold covers the northern sky; to the north
+also each crystal of snow sparkles with reflected light. The sky
+shows every gradation of light and shade; little flakes of golden
+sunlit cloud float against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover
+in the middle heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus
+shades to grey on its unlit sides.'
+
+But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut Point,
+to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no enthusiasm.
+Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual in keeping its
+appointment, but after all they had seen the sun a good many times
+before, and in the next few months they would in all probability
+see it a good many times again, and there was no sense in getting
+excited about it. Some of them did set off at a run for the point,
+while others, since it seemed the right thing to do, followed at
+a walk, but a good
+[Page 89]
+number remained on board and had their dinner. On August 25 the
+Feast of the Sun was duly celebrated, and the days that followed
+were fuller than ever with preparations for the spring journeys. The
+only sewing-machine clattered away all day long, and the whole company
+plied their needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed
+taskmasters. The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the
+best of spirits, was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge
+journeys, and making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind
+and the weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was
+taken to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others,
+and especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons
+the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been
+immense.
+
+In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding
+expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single
+sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made
+in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were
+not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory
+could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of
+time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but
+fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway.
+In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there
+received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was
+not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in
+[Page 90]
+command of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could
+rely to provide the sledding outfit.
+
+In making these preparations for long journeys in the south, there
+was no previous experience to go upon except that which had been
+gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume that southern
+conditions would be more or less similar to those of the north,
+and in so far as they proved different the sledding outfit ran the
+risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in many respects the
+sledding conditions of the south were different from those of the
+north, and so it is only fair to consider the sledge journeys taken
+by the _Discovery_ expedition as pioneer efforts. These differences
+are both climatic and geographical. For instance, the conditions
+in the south are more severe than those in the north, both in the
+lowness of the temperatures and in the distressing frequency of
+blizzards and strong winds. And the geographical difference between
+the work of the northern and the southern sledge-traveler is as
+great as the climatic, if not greater, for the main part of northern
+traveling has been and will be done on sea-ice, while the larger
+part of southern traveling has been and will be done over land
+surfaces, or what in this respect are their equivalents.
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPÔT. _Photo by
+Capt. R. F. Scott._]
+
+So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge
+over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate
+maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice,
+that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers
+[Page 91]
+must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later
+on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over
+the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that--given the
+surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge
+parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by
+the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for
+the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions,
+and while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely
+to meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records
+is not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the
+same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled
+are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and
+of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service.
+
+The main differences between the sledges used by the _Discovery_
+expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in
+breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from
+the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's sledges
+were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners themselves
+were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track from side to
+side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths varied from
+12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved to be by far the
+most convenient--a length of 12 feet seeming to pass just beyond
+the limit of handiness.
+
+Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of sledge,
+it will be seen that it differed
+[Page 92]
+considerably from the old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and
+3 feet broad. The weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything
+between 40 and 47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full
+strength of the structure was required. Generally speaking, the
+full load that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most
+important part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must
+be perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily;
+but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood runner
+would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow. 'Some of
+our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000 miles,
+and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.'
+
+In point of numbers the _Discovery_'s crew was far behind the old
+Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott decide,
+in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would do most
+of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest workable
+units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties of at least
+eight, who, having a common tent and cooking arrangements, could
+not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not necessarily to limit the
+number of men in his parties, but to divide them into units of
+three, which should be self-contained, so that whenever it was
+advisable a unit could be detached from the main party. Under such
+a system it is obvious that each unit must have its own tent,
+sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and therein lay a disadvantage,
+as economy of material and weight can
+[Page 93]
+be better carried out with a large unit than with a small one.
+
+The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two headings:
+the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the trip, and
+the consumable, including food, oil, &c. The following is a list
+of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to the west,
+and it will give some idea of the variety of articles, exclusive
+of provisions. The party numbered six.
+
+                                                      lbs.
+  2 Sledges with fittings complete                    130
+    Trace                                               5
+  2 Cookers, pannikins and spoons                      30
+  2 Primus lamps, filled                               10
+  2 Tents complete                                     60
+  2 Spades                                              9
+  2 Sleeping-bags with night-gear                     100
+    Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko[1]      50
+    Medical bag                                         6
+  3 Ice-axes                                            8
+    Bamboos and marks                                  11.5
+    Instruments and camera                             50
+    Alpine rope                                         9
+    Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape,
+      sledge brakes                                    15
+    Ski boots for party                                15
+    Ski for party                                      60
+
+    Total                                             568.5
+
+[Footnote 1: Reindeer-fur boots.]
+
+[Page 94]
+Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his load
+was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total carrying
+capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could be devoted
+to provisions.
+
+Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks' food
+for a party of six, but as such a short period is often not long
+enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled to organize
+means by which their journey can be prolonged. This can be done
+in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the season and lay
+a depôt at a considerable distance towards their goal, or they
+may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting party, which
+accompanies them for a certain distance on the road and helps their
+advance party to drag a heavier load than they can accomplish alone.
+
+Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important
+journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship
+for long periods and to travel long distances.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 95]
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY
+
+  Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit
+  To its full height...
+
+                                ...Shew us here
+  That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not.
+  For there is none so mean or base
+  That have not noble lustre in your eyes.
+  I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,
+  Straining upon the start.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been
+turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times the
+advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed.
+This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which
+Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the end
+of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was always
+repugnant to his nature.
+
+'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not
+greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that
+they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death, is
+equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be justified
+by the gain, and I think that logically it may be;
+[Page 96]
+but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob
+sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever
+made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception
+which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships,
+dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and by
+days and weeks of hard physical labour succeed in solving some
+problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest is
+more nobly and splendidly won.'
+
+When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of dogs
+had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained for the
+southern journey, all but one--and he was killed at an earlier
+period--left their bones on the great southern plains. This briefly
+is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances under which they
+met their deaths will be mentioned later on.
+
+[Illustration: SLEDDING.]
+
+Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make a
+short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers
+and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of harness,
+and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large or small
+teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted from September
+2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently with four dogs
+harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if the first team
+got away all right, the others were often keen to play the game
+of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was a positive
+spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two
+[Page 97]
+competing teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural
+result that when they were near enough to see what was happening,
+they decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a
+free fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with
+a mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and
+teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even
+in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results
+showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties,
+and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which
+the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing
+and which the lazy ones.
+
+On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west
+with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott
+wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a glance
+the vast improvement that has been made since last year. The sledges
+were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think of the slovenly
+manner in which we conducted things last autumn; at any rate here
+is a first result of the care and attention of the winter.'
+
+Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following
+day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the
+dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start
+on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17.
+
+On the morning of that day he and his two companions,
+[Page 98]
+Barne and Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams,
+left the ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped
+for lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer
+was down to -43°.
+
+The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together
+with a quantity of stores to form a depôt, the whole giving a load
+of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined to be only
+a short and bitter experience.
+
+The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were
+so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting
+of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he
+found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of my
+sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed forth
+on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent or my
+companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it could
+mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly awoke
+me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in some
+extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.'
+
+At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding
+snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping
+across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to the
+tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and the
+tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its securing,
+that something had to be done at once to prevent it from blowing
+away altogether.
+[Page 99]
+So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually
+pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it,
+they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while
+they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An
+attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible,
+while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would
+hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then they
+were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once more over
+the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly hanging on
+and warning each other of frostbitten features, their sleeping-bags
+became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were lying in masses
+of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by ceaseless exertions
+so far become masters of the situation, that there was no further
+need for the tent to be held with anything except the weight of
+their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of hands showed a number
+of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had not recovered from
+the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To have hung on to the
+tent through all those hours must have been positive agony to him,
+yet he never uttered a word of complaint.'
+
+By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few hours'
+sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on after this
+most miserable experience was very unwise, since by returning to
+the ship they would only lose one day's march and everything could
+be dried for a fresh start.
+
+[Page 100]
+Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the rest
+of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and were found
+quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On the journey back
+the thermometer recorded -53°, and the effect of such a temperature
+upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall remember the condition
+of my trousers for a long while; they might have been cut out of
+sheet iron. It was some time before I could walk with any sort of
+ease, and even when we reached the ship I was conscious of carrying
+an armor plate behind me.... It will certainly be a very long time
+before I go to sleep again in a tent which is not properly secured.'
+
+On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers
+had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain,
+Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding.
+Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and
+to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the
+morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that
+he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the south,
+with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave orders
+to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever turns and
+twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light he could see
+the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the bare ice surface,
+by slight differences in shade, and though he could not see them
+where they dived into the valleys, he found that the bridges were
+strong enough to bear. In
+[Page 101]
+his desire to use the snowy patches as far as possible, the course
+he took was very irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut
+corners. In this manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott
+suddenly heard a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that
+Feather had vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right,
+but their leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that
+the trace had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his
+great relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon
+hauled up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through
+where it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of
+few words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to
+cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt
+that he had a very close call.
+
+After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant to
+give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the four
+sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up and down
+in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing not a single
+thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which it had fallen.
+It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was, but, after some
+consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed that he should
+be let down and undertake the very cold job of unpacking it. So
+he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope, while the other was
+used for hauling up the various packages; and at last the load
+was got up, and the lightened sledge soon followed.
+
+After this incident they thought it prudent to treat these numerous
+crevasses with more respect, and on
+[Page 102]
+proceeding they roped themselves together; but although no more
+mishaps occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute
+this to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day,
+I cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not
+the least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and
+the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion
+can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there
+were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb
+that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."'
+
+The depôt, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and 150 lbs.
+of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and besides
+marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful to take
+angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could see.
+Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what was meant
+no longer required any driving. On the homeward march the travelers
+went for all they were worth, and in spite of perpetual fog covered
+eighty-five statute miles in less than three days.
+
+On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most delightful
+place. The sense of having done what he wanted to do had something
+to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but it was the actual
+physical comfort after days of privation that chiefly affected him.
+The joy of possessing the sledding appetite was sheer delight, and
+for many days after the travelers returned from their sledding-trips,
+they retained a hunger which it seemed impossible to satisfy.
+
+[Page 103]
+In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with
+himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all
+his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered
+what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment,
+had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this
+was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy--the disease that
+has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part in
+the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of which
+everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations cannot
+fail to realize.
+
+This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when
+he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's
+medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all
+attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion.
+
+Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but
+the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts,
+and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance
+to break out.
+
+Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything in
+her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party, sent
+out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was given that
+no tinned meat of any description should be issued. By October 20
+this grave disease had to all intents and purposes passed away,
+but although evidence showed that it was
+[Page 104]
+caused by tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best
+quality, and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities,
+there was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble.
+
+This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for
+when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health
+and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on
+the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this
+pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished
+with astonishing rapidity, it was--quite apart from the benefit lost
+to medical science--very annoying not to be able to say definitely
+from what the evil had sprung.
+
+But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated,
+and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence, preparations
+for the various journeys were pushed on with no less vigour and
+enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was nothing really to
+be alarmed about, and everyone played it with the greatest success.
+
+Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party
+would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance
+from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability
+no further depôts could be established, it was desirable that this
+party should be supported as far as possible on their route. To
+meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party
+of twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights
+were reduced to an amount
+[Page 105]
+which the dogs could drag without assistance. Then Barne was to
+return to the ship, and after a short rest start again with six
+men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff. As soon as this
+was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal all the men and
+material left in the ship for his attack on the western region.
+
+On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks
+before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned
+with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the
+'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be
+sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had
+a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the
+expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find
+that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately after
+the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and with no
+symptom of the disease.
+
+From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents
+by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased they
+were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in fact one
+tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants could be
+got into the open, while the sledges and everything left outside
+were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated round
+the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of canvas,
+and reduced the interior space to such an extent that those inside
+were obliged to lie with their knees bent double. Royds, whose
+reports were invariably very brief and to
+[Page 106]
+the point, dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page,
+but no great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible
+discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party
+recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were
+scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were
+the amusing incidents that had happened.
+
+On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and
+among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only
+testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery
+on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest
+type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity
+of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to
+face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no small
+satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the habits
+of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all others of
+the feathered tribe.'
+
+Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern
+journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it
+was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne
+and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left a
+few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning, amidst
+a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and employed
+it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles... Barne's
+banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack, and
+[Page 107]
+another carried a flag with a large device stating "_No dogs needs
+apply_"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting sight to
+see nearly the whole of our small company step out on the march
+with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this kind promised
+to be done as heartily.'
+
+And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward
+to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he,
+Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades,
+started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on the
+floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany us
+for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great
+effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in
+spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had
+to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest
+of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all
+tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and
+still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards
+they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out
+to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the
+same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by
+bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott
+camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march.
+
+During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and re-passed
+each other, since it was
+[Page 108]
+impossible for Scott to push on ahead of Barne's party, and the
+latter's progress was very slow, as they could get no hold with
+their fur boots, and they found their ski leather boots dreadfully
+cold for their feet. To add to the slowness of the journey the
+weather was very unfavorable, and the greater parts of the 8th
+and 9th were entirely wasted by a blizzard. On the 10th Depôt A,
+that had previously been laid, was reached and Scott wrote: 'Already
+it seems to me that the dogs feel the monotony of a long march over
+the snow more than we do; they seem easily to get dispirited, and
+that it is not due to fatigue is shown when they catch a glimpse
+of anything novel.... To-day, for instance, they required some
+driving until they caught sight of the depôt flag, when they gave
+tongue loudly and dashed off as though they barely felt the load
+behind them.'
+
+The names of the dogs were:
+
+  Nigger          Birdie          Wolf
+  Jim             Nell            Vic
+  Spud            Blanco          Bismarck
+  Snatcher        Grannie         Kid
+  Fitzclarence    Lewis           Boss
+  Stripes         Gus             Brownie
+                  Joe
+
+Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern
+party did not already know concerning their individualities, they
+had ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next
+few weeks.
+
+[Page 109]
+Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally for
+himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved so
+unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things, that
+he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could scarcely
+be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move, and in
+camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow being
+shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring up
+and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark
+of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when
+the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every
+movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed
+his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push
+affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come
+along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the evening
+halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks and
+remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting
+on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew
+perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards,
+however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note
+could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if
+disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first
+of all.
+
+Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly
+clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up
+to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at
+pretending to pull;
+[Page 110]
+Spud was generally considered to be daft; Birdie evidently had been
+treated badly in his youth and remained distrustful and suspicious
+to the end; Kid was the most indefatigable worker in the team;
+Wolf's character possessed no redeeming point of any kind, while
+Brownie though a little too genteel for very hard work was charming
+as a pet, and it may also be said of him that he never lost an
+opportunity of using his pleasant appearance and delightful ways
+to lighten his afflictions. The load for this dog team after Depôt
+A had been passed was 1,850 lbs., which, considering that some of
+the dogs were of little use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten
+that the men also expected to pull, and that each night the weight
+would be reduced by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers
+were nearly up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south
+than anyone had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused
+great jubilation, and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer
+than fifteen of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the
+record.' A photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then
+half of the supporting party started to return, and the other half
+stepped out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following.
+
+By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned
+back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's
+work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is
+evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme
+toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day....
+[Page 111]
+We have decided that if things have not improved in the morning
+we will take on half a load at a time; after a few days of this
+sort of thing the loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to
+continue in the old way again.'
+
+On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads promptly
+and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to divide the
+load into two portions and take half on at a time. This meant, of
+course, that each mile had to be traveled three times, but there
+was no alternative to this tedious form of advance. Even, however,
+with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost all their spirit,
+and at the end of the march on the 18th they were practically 'done.'
+Only five geographical miles[1] were gained on that day, but to
+do it they had to cover fifteen.
+
+[Footnote 1: 7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute
+miles.]
+
+On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse, and
+it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were eating
+permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had intended
+to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in an unlucky
+moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving to take fish.
+The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such as is split,
+dried and exported from that country in great quantities for human
+food. But one important point was overlooked, namely the probability
+of the fish being affected on passing through the tropics. The
+lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that in future travelers in the
+south should safeguard their
+[Page 112]
+dogs as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was
+the dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours
+in their tent which might have been devoted to marching.
+
+Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the monotony
+of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st, and as the
+prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily disappearing,
+it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and edge towards
+it. Then the surface over which they were traveling showed signs
+of improvement, but the travelers themselves were beginning to
+suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and their eyes were
+also troubling them. Appetites, however, were increasing by leaps
+and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked to on our long marches
+is the prospect of the next meal.'
+
+On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little variation
+in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the first half-load
+one of the three stopped with it, and got up the tent and prepared
+the meal while the other two brought up the second half-load. And
+then on the following day came one of those rewards which was all the
+sweeter because it had been gained by ceaseless and very monotonous
+toil.
+
+'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote,
+'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80° 1'. All our charts of
+the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond the eightieth
+parallel... It has always been our ambition to get inside that white
+[Page 113]
+space, and now we are there the space can no longer be a blank;
+this compensates for a lot of trouble.'
+
+A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so exhausted
+that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather had not
+compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always able to
+foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he invariably
+suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he could not help
+being a very effective barometer.
+
+After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning of
+the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no time
+to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest, and
+there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine of
+relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement in
+the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land in
+hopes of making a depôt; so the course was laid to the westward
+of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they
+were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty
+miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day
+has only given us a bare four miles.'
+
+Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work and
+the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that they
+marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was between
+4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp somewhere
+between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested while the
+sun was at its greatest
+[Page 114]
+height; but although there were certainly advantages in this, Scott
+could not get rid of a curious feeling that something was amiss
+with such a topsy-turvy method of procedure.
+
+By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out some
+of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of mountains,
+which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at least fifty miles
+away. By far the nearest point of land was an isolated snow-cape,
+an immense, and almost dome-shaped, snow-covered mass. At first
+no rock at all could be seen on it, but as they got nearer a few
+patches began to appear. For one of these patches they decided
+to make so that they might establish a depôt, but at the rate at
+which they were traveling there was little hope of reaching it
+for several days.
+
+By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that when
+the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin, and both
+smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But what saddened
+them more than this taste of paraffin was the discovery, on December
+5, that their oil was going too fast. A gallon was to have lasted
+twelve days, but on investigation it was found on an average to
+have lasted only ten, which meant that in the future each gallon
+would have to last a fortnight. 'This is a distinct blow, as we
+shall have to sacrifice our hot luncheon meal and to economize
+greatly at both the others. We started the new routine to-night,
+and for lunch ate some frozen seal-meat and our allowance of sugar
+and biscuit.'
+
+[Page 115]
+It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was
+not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when
+the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional
+discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when
+Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's
+balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his
+hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance
+of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his
+gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort
+from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was
+a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and
+on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily going
+downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than counter-balanced
+by the weakening of the animals, and I can see no time in which
+we can hope to get the sledges along without pulling ourselves.'
+
+By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast,
+but so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and
+even supposing they did get there and make a depôt, they doubted
+very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog,
+Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been got
+to move with the second load by the ignominious device of carrying
+food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was agony to those
+who had to drive and coax them on, and though Scott refers often
+in these days to the hunger that was nipping him,
+[Page 116]
+no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely more he
+was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about his own
+troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.'
+
+At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost spent,
+at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march they had
+only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous exertions,
+for the snow became softer as they approached the land, and the
+sledge-runners sank from three to four inches. On any particularly
+soft patch they could do little more than mark time, and even to
+advance a yard was an achievement.
+
+No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions
+and a quantity of dog-food in Depôt B and had resumed their march,
+sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know how
+to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay
+work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst
+I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more, I
+am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare,
+which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief
+was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs
+were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment
+have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced,
+and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise to
+push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer was
+that the risk
+[Page 117]
+of going on should be taken, but on that same night Wilson, in view
+of future plans, reported to Scott that his medical examinations
+revealed that Shackleton had decidedly angry-looking gums, and that
+for some time they had been slowly but surely getting worse. It
+was decided not to tell Shackleton of these symptoms of scurvy,
+and as the bacon they were using seemed likely to be the cause of
+them, it was discarded and an increased allowance of seal given
+in its place. This was a loss in weight which was serious, for
+already they were reduced almost to starvation rations of about
+a pound and a half a day.
+
+Supper was the best meal, for then they had a _hoosh_ which ran
+from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but even
+this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being heated
+in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but the lamp
+was turned out directly the _hoosh_ boiled, and by that time the
+chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker. Of course
+the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were long past
+criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted was something
+to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got it. Half an hour
+after supper was over they were as hungry as ever.
+
+When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea
+that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience
+showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid system
+of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to divide
+[Page 118]
+things into three equal portions, and as the man who made the division
+felt called upon to take the smallest share, the game of 'shut-eye'
+was invented to stop all arguments and remonstrances. The shares
+were divided as equally as possible by someone, then one of the
+other two turned his head away and the divider pointed to a portion
+and said, 'Whose is this?' He of the averted head named the owner,
+and thus this simple but useful game was played.
+
+Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not encouraging,
+but they had reached a much harder surface and under those conditions
+Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet time to say 'Turn.'
+Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them, and for a week they
+had all agreed that it would be a crime to go to bed hungry on that
+night. In fact they meant it to be a wonderful day, and everything
+conspired to make it so.
+
+The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of
+wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as the
+scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for once
+they were going to have a really substantial breakfast, and this
+was an irresistible counter-attraction.
+
+And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than
+they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better
+that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs.
+On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven
+miles, the longest march they had made for a long
+[Page 119]
+time. So when camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with
+the day, and ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered.
+A double 'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot,
+and in the _hoosh_ that followed a spoon would stand without any
+support, and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point.
+
+'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is still
+circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is warm and
+quiet. All is pleasant without, and within we have a sense of comfort
+we have not known for many a day; we shall sleep well tonight--no
+dreams, no tightening of the belt.
+
+'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the conversation
+turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas is like in
+England... and how our friends picture us. They will guess that
+we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps think of us
+on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the truth, that
+for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 120]
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE RETURN
+
+        How many weary steps
+  Of many weary miles you have o'ergone,
+  Are numbered to the travel of one mile.
+    SHAKESPEARE.
+
+Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day wore
+off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise uninterrupted
+spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered long after
+hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this time they
+knew that they had cut themselves too short in the matter of food,
+but the only possible alteration that could now be made in their
+arrangements was to curtail their journey, and rather than do that
+they were ready cheerfully to face the distress of having an enormous
+appetite, and very little with which to appease it.
+
+Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the
+ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing
+weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a greater
+rate than they could renew them, and that the additional
+[Page 121]
+weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would have
+been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength and
+vigour.
+
+Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another
+disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it was
+impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before
+they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would
+give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast,
+while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps
+went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced before
+another meal.
+
+But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could
+eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping
+up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental
+and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they knew
+that they were penetrating farther and farther into the unknown.
+Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their labours more
+assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving sledge-meter
+or looked for the calculated results of their observations, it
+is not surprising that above all the desires for food was an
+irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to extend the line
+which they were now drawing on the white space of the Antarctic
+chart.
+
+Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land was
+passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without the disclosure
+of some new
+[Page 122]
+feature, something on which the eye of man had never rested; we
+should have been poor souls indeed had we not been elated at the
+privilege of being the first to gaze on these splendid scenes.'
+
+From the point of view of further exploration their position on
+December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high undulating
+snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the south lay a cape
+beyond which they could not hope to pass, and to all appearances
+these conditions were likely to remain to the end of their journey.
+But on that night they had christened a distant and lofty peak
+'Mount Longstaff,' in honour of the man whose generosity had alone
+made the expedition possible, and although they thought that this
+was the most southerly land to which they would be able to give a
+name, they were in no mood to turn back because the outlook was
+unpromising. Arguing on the principle that it was impossible to tell
+what may turn up, they all decided to push on; and their decision was
+wise, for had they returned at that point one of the most important
+features of the whole coast-line would have been missed.
+
+On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness,
+which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott had
+remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry: 'When
+it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days he will
+spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent sketching
+each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene to the west.
+His sketches
+[Page 123]
+are most astonishingly accurate; I have tested his proportions by
+actual angular measurements and found them correct.... But these
+long hours in the glare are very bad for the eyes; we have all
+suffered a good deal from snow-blindness of late, though we generally
+march with goggles, but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear
+it is mainly due to his sketching.'
+
+The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than anything
+that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th Wilson was
+pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely covered.
+To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch the bottom
+of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest intention
+of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and telling him
+of the changes that were happening around them he plodded steadily
+on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it happened that a most
+glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed itself. With some
+excitement Scott noticed that new mountain ridges were appearing
+as high as anything they had seen to the north, and his excitement
+increased when these ridges grew higher and higher. Then, instead
+of a downward turn in the distant outline came a steep upward line,
+and as they pressed on apace to see what would happen next, Scott
+did his best to keep Wilson posted up in the latest details. The
+end came in a gloriously sharp double peak crowned with a few flecks
+of cirrus cloud, and all they could think of in camp that night
+was this splendid twin-peaked mountain, which even in such
+[Page 124]
+a lofty country looked like a giant among pigmies. 'At last we
+have found something which is fitting to bear the name of him whom
+we must always the most delight to honour, and "Mount Markham"
+it shall be called in memory of the father of the expedition.'
+
+Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss
+this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to
+be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect
+view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the limit
+of their journey would be reached, and that they would have but
+few more opportunities to increase their stock of information.
+
+After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most
+interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags,
+full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead
+of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the tent
+while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when they
+got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped
+in a thick fog.
+
+Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their
+last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached.
+Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though
+this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped for
+when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he anticipated
+when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says, 'one cannot help
+a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting on the "might have been"
+[Page 125]
+had our team remained in good health, one cannot but remember that
+even as it is we have made a greater advance towards a pole of
+the earth than has ever yet been achieved by a sledge party.'
+
+With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Depôt
+B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year,
+and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving
+dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many
+of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but
+those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had
+of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to the
+suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely he
+felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January 3.
+This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite played
+out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid" caved
+in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled like
+a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him up till
+his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team now remained,
+and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but Nigger, though
+weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But at the end of
+a week on the return journey, all of the remaining dogs were asked
+to do nothing except walk by the sledges.
+
+For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered
+ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling was as
+nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer having to drive
+[Page 126]
+a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering and dragging in
+front would be needed, no more tangled traces would have to be
+put straight, and above all there would be no more whip. So far
+steady though rather slow progress had been made, but January 8
+brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they would the sledge could
+scarcely be made to move, and after three hours of the hardest
+work only a mile and a quarter had been gained. Sadly they were
+compelled to admit that the surface had so completely changed that
+the only thing to do was to remain in camp until it improved. But
+whether it would improve was an anxious matter, for they had less
+than a week's provisions and were at least fifty miles from Depôt B.
+
+The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and a
+fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were left,
+Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost out
+of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and marched
+along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling. But this
+more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by a march in
+a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had even a more
+serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind them they
+had gained many miles, but the march had tired them out, because
+instead of the steady pulling to which they were accustomed they
+had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes to pull forwards,
+backwards, sideways, and always with their senses keenly alert
+and their muscles strung up for instant action.
+
+[Page 127]
+On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote: 'We
+cannot now be far from our depôt, but then we do not exactly know
+where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if this thick
+weather continues we shall probably not be able to find it.' And
+after two more days of bad surface and thick weather he wrote again:
+'There is no doubt we are approaching a very critical time. The
+depôt is a very small spot on a very big ocean of snow; with luck
+one might see it at a mile and a half or two miles, and fortune
+may direct our course within this radius of it; but, on the other
+hand, it is impossible not to contemplate the ease with which such
+a small spot can be missed.... The annoying thing is that one good
+clear sight of the land would solve all our difficulties.'
+
+At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever.
+Three hours' incessant labour had gained only three-quarters of a
+mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag was a
+mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that remained
+in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But later on Scott
+caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and tumbled hastily out of
+his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining a meridional altitude;
+and after getting the very best result he could under the very
+difficult conditions prevailing, he casually lowered the telescope
+and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly a speck seemed to flash
+by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose. Then he brought the
+telescope slowly back, and there it was again, and accompanied this
+[Page 128]
+time by two smaller specks on either side of it. Without a shadow
+of doubt it was the depôt which meant the means of life to them.
+'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's the depôt." We are not
+a demonstrative party, but I think we excused ourselves for the
+wild cheer that greeted this announcement.'
+
+In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though
+the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different
+mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as
+possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten
+as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they were
+going to have the fat _hoosh_ which would once more give them an
+internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the depôt,
+and there they found everything as they had left it.
+
+On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver from
+the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by the fat
+_hoosh_ of their dreams they completed the comparison between the
+two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners. Having
+equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the sledges
+round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely move the
+metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other.
+
+Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only
+about 130 miles to cover to their next depôt, a full three weeks'
+provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood runners,
+they went to bed
+[Page 129]
+feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been lifted. The chief
+cause of worry left was the question of health, and the result
+of a thorough medical examination on the morning of the 14th did
+nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found to be very far indeed
+from well, but although Scott and Wilson both showed symptoms of
+scurvy they still felt that, as far as they were concerned, there
+was no danger of a breakdown.
+
+On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of it
+Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really
+alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but
+we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse;
+now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be
+sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it had
+to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning.
+
+'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his restless,
+energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night I have
+talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work, but
+to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must be
+devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck to
+bring him through.'
+
+With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic
+story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors
+of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the
+camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through our
+most troublous time we always looked forward to getting
+[Page 130]
+some of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then
+seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should
+be able to bring back these two.'
+
+During the part of the return journey which was now beginning,
+they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that it
+resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick companion.
+The weather also added to their troubles, because it was so overcast
+that steering was extremely difficult. For nearly ten consecutive
+days this gloomy weather continued to harass them, but on the 20th
+it cleared as they were on their march, and on the following day
+with a brisk southerly breeze and their sail set they traveled
+along at a fine rate. The state of Shackleton's health was still
+a source of acutest anxiety, but each march brought safety nearer
+and nearer, and on the 23rd Scott was able to write in a much more
+hopeful spirit. Next day a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was
+seen, but this encouraging sight was accompanied by a new form
+of surface which made the pulling very wearisome. An inch or so
+beneath the soft snow surface was a thin crust, almost, but not
+quite, sufficient to bear their weight. The work of breaking such
+a surface as this would, Scott says, have finished Shackleton in
+no time, but luckily he was able to go on ski and avoid the jars.
+'In spite of our present disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess
+that if we get back safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair
+he is now using.'
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT EREBUS.]
+
+[Page 131]
+But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott and
+Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to chance,
+and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition would
+allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off and got
+well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and after lunch
+the same procedure was adopted. By this means he was able to take
+things easily, and though eager to do his share of the work he
+was wise enough to see that every precaution taken was absolutely
+necessary.
+
+Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between,
+but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered them
+to think that they had seen something that was actually beyond the
+ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away, but they
+had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance that they
+were not in the least astonished by this.
+
+January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on as usual
+the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon afterwards
+discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no doubt that
+the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey work to the
+west, but it was wonderful what that track told them. They could
+see that there had been six men with two sledges, and that all of
+the former had been going strong and well on ski. From the state
+of the track this party had evidently passed about four days before
+on the homeward route, and from
+[Page 132]
+the zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must
+have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added
+some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study.
+But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne and
+his party were safe, and this after their own experiences was a
+great relief.
+
+Another day and a half of labour brought them to the depôt, and
+the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our tent
+was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish
+glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil enough
+for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have lasted
+us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag which
+we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just opened
+this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents. There
+are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup squares,
+pea soup, and many other delights that already make our mouths
+water. For each one of us there is some special trifle which the
+forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being an extra
+packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are a whole heap
+of folded letters and notes--_billets-doux_ indeed. I wonder if
+a mail was ever more acceptable.'
+
+The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labour, had succeeded
+in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's
+egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal
+itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an
+[Page 133]
+unqualified success, for after being accustomed to starvation or
+semi-starvation rations, they were in no condition either to resist
+or to digest any unstinted meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered
+acutely.
+
+On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and the first
+thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned when Shackleton
+was found to be extremely ill. Everything now depended upon the
+weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott doubted if Shackleton
+would even be well enough to be carried on the sledge. 'It is a
+great disappointment; last night we thought ourselves out of the
+wood with all our troubles behind us, and to-night matters seem
+worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are pretty fit, and we have
+lots of food.' By great luck the weather cleared on the morning
+of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a very bad night revived a
+little it was felt that the only chance was to go on. 'At last
+he was got away, and we watched him almost tottering along with
+frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our provisions, in half an hour
+we had packed our camp, set our sail, and started with the sledges.
+It was not long before we caught our invalid, who was so exhausted
+that we thought it wiser he should sit on the sledges, where for
+the remainder of the forenoon, with the help of our sail, we carried
+him.'
+
+In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the blizzard,
+but fortune favored them during the last stages of the struggle
+homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful effect upon the
+[Page 134]
+sick man. By the night of February 2 they were within ten or twelve
+miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of a successful end to their
+troubles. During the afternoon they had passed round the corner
+of White Island, and as they did so the old familiar outline of the
+friendly peninsula suddenly opened up before them. On every side
+were suggestions of home, and their joy at seeing the well-known
+landmarks was increased by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent
+as three persons can well be.'
+
+Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his
+companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew
+how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And both
+Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been advancing
+rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to themselves or
+each other how 'done' they were. For many a day Wilson had suffered
+from lameness, and each morning had vainly tried to disguise his
+limp, but from his set face Scott knew well enough how much he
+suffered before the first stiffness wore off. 'As for myself, for
+some time I have hurried through the task of changing my foot-gear
+in an attempt to forget that my ankles are considerably swollen.
+One and all we want rest and peace, and, all being well, tomorrow,
+thank Heaven, we shall get them.'
+
+These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during this
+remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up their camp
+for the last time and set their faces towards Observation Hill.
+[Page 135]
+Brilliant weather still continued, and after plodding on for some
+hours two specks appeared, which at first were thought to be penguins,
+but presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them. Early in the
+morning they had been reported by watchers on the hills, and Skelton
+and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them.
+
+Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened to
+a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other travelers
+returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but the relief
+ship, the _Morning_, had also arrived and brought a whole year's
+news.
+
+So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed,
+they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from
+December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts
+busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved
+ship.
+
+Though still held fast in her icy prison the _Discovery_ looked
+trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion
+a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while
+as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with
+their cheering comrades.
+
+With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their
+shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them,
+no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time
+it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to
+be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended,
+[Page 136]
+and that rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three
+days they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the
+fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered 960
+statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the beginning
+had not been completely achieved, they knew at any rate that they
+had striven and endured to the limit of their powers.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A SECOND WINTER
+
+  As cold waters to a thirsty soul,
+  So is good news from a far country.
+    PROVERBS.
+
+In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources
+of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his absence,
+and that parties had been going and coming and ever adding to the
+collection of knowledge.
+
+On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how the
+Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid progress
+had been made in the preparations for the western party that November
+9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a general holiday
+and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic sports.
+
+Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the
+toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple
+had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no
+sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start
+was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the
+[Page 138]
+queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number
+were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something of
+a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate
+arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from the
+same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what
+was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion
+secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race was
+considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start it was
+seen that this couple had laboured in vain; for although they shot
+ahead at first, their speed was so great that they could not control
+their machine. In a moment they were rolling head-over-heels in
+clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus amusing itself a tortoise
+slid past and won the race.
+
+By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey,
+and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound and
+attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton and ten
+men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar, Dellbridge
+and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage and his party
+during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt a practicable
+road to the interior was discovered and traversed, and the barrier
+of mountains that had seemed so formidable an obstruction from the
+ship was conquered. It was equally certain that the party could
+claim to be the first to set foot on the interior of Victoria Land
+but they had been forced to turn back at an extremely
+[Page 139]
+interesting point, and in consequence were unable to supply very
+definite information with regard to the ice-cap. They had, however,
+fulfilled their main object, and in doing so had disclosed problems
+that caused the deepest interest to be focussed upon the direction
+in which they had traveled.
+
+Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among the
+rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits. These,
+with other observations, showed the strong probability of the existence
+of sedimentary deposits which might be reached and examined, and
+which alone could serve to reveal the geological history of this
+great southern continent. At all hazards Scott determined that
+the geologist of the expedition must be given a chance to explore
+this most interesting region.
+
+The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically
+stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on
+shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that
+remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by resorting
+to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful expeditions.
+
+While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the ship
+was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on board
+in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic measures
+had to be taken before they could be released from their beds of
+ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen depths,
+it was not possible
+[Page 140]
+that the task could be accomplished without doing considerable
+damage. When at length all of them had been brought to the surface
+their condition was exceedingly dilapidated; indeed only two of
+them were in a condition to float; but although it was evident
+that the carpenter would be busy for many weeks before they would
+be seaworthy, their reappearance was a tremendous relief.
+
+Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions
+that the _Discovery_ should be prepared for sea by the end of January.
+Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there was still plenty
+of employment for everybody, since 'preparations for sea' under
+such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount of labour. Tons
+and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck with pick-axes
+and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes had to be looked
+to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything got ready for
+handling the ship under sail; many things that had been displaced
+or landed near the shore-station had to be brought on board and
+secured in position; thirty tons of ice had to be fetched, melted,
+and run into the boilers; below, steam-pipes had to be rejointed,
+glands re-packed, engines turned by hand, and steam raised to see
+that all was in working order.
+
+Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship,
+this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern travelers
+returned all was ready for them to put to sea again.
+
+[Page 141]
+But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back to
+safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival
+of the _Morning_. How the funds were raised by means of which this
+ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was due to
+the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir Clements
+Markham that the _Morning_, commanded by Lieutenant William Colbeck,
+R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on July 9, 1902.
+
+Long before the _Discovery_ had left New Zealand the idea of a
+relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great
+difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if the
+thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it. Obviously
+then it was desirable to leave as much information as possible
+on the track, and the relief ship was to try and pick up clues
+at the places where Scott had said that he would attempt to leave
+them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession Islands, Coulman
+Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape Crozier.
+
+On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there Colbeck
+heard of the _Discovery's_ safe arrival in the south. The Possession
+Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been able to land
+there, and south of this the whole coast was so thickly packed that
+the _Morning_ could not approach either Coulman Island or Wood
+Bay.
+
+Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but
+[Page 142]
+without result; and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not
+until four days later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck
+himself joined the landing party, and after spending several hours
+in fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning
+despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly a
+small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it, and
+in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into the
+mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the _Discovery_, and
+practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do.
+
+On board the _Discovery_ the idea had steadily grown that a relief
+ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had begun to
+look upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of January
+it was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke had
+been seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally
+received without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down
+the hill on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a
+ship in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable
+of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early
+on the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The _Morning_
+was lying some ten miles north of the _Discovery_, but it was far
+easier to see her than to reach her. At last, however, the party,
+after various little adventures, stood safely on deck and received
+the warmest of welcomes.
+
+During the last week of January the weather was
+[Page 143]
+in its most glorious mood, and with some of the treacherous thin
+ice breaking away the _Morning_ was able to get a mile nearer.
+Parties constantly passed to and fro between the two ships, and
+everyone--with unshaken confidence that the _Discovery_ would soon
+be free--gave themselves up to the delight of fresh companionship,
+and the joy of good news from the home country. To this scene of
+festivity and cheeriness Scott, Wilson and Shackleton returned on
+February 3, and though the last to open their letters they had
+the satisfaction of knowing that the _Morning_ had brought nothing
+but good news.
+
+By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern
+party's return to make his first visit to the _Discovery_, and soon
+after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was reveling in
+the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of welcoming him
+on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,' Scott says,
+'I had little expected that the first feast in our home quarters
+would be taken with strange faces gathered round our festive table,
+but so it was, and I can well remember the look of astonishment
+that dawned on those faces when we gradually displayed our power
+of absorbing food.'
+
+But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease,
+for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition
+was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although
+he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused
+a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from
+[Page 144]
+the violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the
+journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs
+of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that
+on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained
+quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is a
+very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern
+journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this
+collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the
+determination which must have upheld him during the last marches.
+
+Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no means
+fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were very
+uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was attacked
+by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental weariness.
+'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse myself from this
+slothful humour, and it was many weeks before I had returned to
+a normally vigorous condition. It was probably this exceptionally
+relaxed state of health that made me so slow to realize that the
+ice conditions were very different from what they had been in the
+previous season.... The prospect of the ice about us remaining fast
+throughout the season never once entered my head.' His diary, however,
+for the month shows how he gradually awakened to the true state of
+affairs, and on February 13 he decided to begin the transport of
+stores from the _Morning_ to the _Discovery_, so that the former
+ship 'should run no risk of being detained.' And on the 18th when
+[Page 145]
+he paid his first visit to the _Morning_ and found the journey
+'an awful grind,' he had begun to wonder whether the floe was ever
+going to break up.
+
+[Illustration: LUNAR CORONA.]
+
+A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The _Morning_
+must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that we
+shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up may
+come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had decided
+that if they had to remain the ship's company should be reduced,
+and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told them that he
+wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing. On the following
+day a list was sent round for the names of those who wanted to go,
+and the result was curiously satisfactory--for Scott had determined
+that eight men should go, and not only were there eight names on
+the list, but they were also precisely those which Scott would
+have put there had he made the selection. Shackleton also had to
+be told that he must go, as in his state of health Scott did not
+think that any further hardships ought to be risked; but in his
+place Scott requisitioned Mulock who by an extraordinary chance
+is just the very man we wanted. We have now an immense amount of
+details for charts... and Mulock is excellent at this work and as
+keen as possible. It is rather amusing, as he is the only person
+who is obviously longing for the ice to stop in, though of course
+he doesn't say so. The other sporting characters are still giving
+ten to one that it will go out, but I am bound to confess that
+I am not sanguine.'
+
+[Page 146]
+The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on February
+16, and before the end of the month all hope of the _Discovery_
+being able to leave with the _Morning_ had been abandoned. On March
+2 nearly the whole of the _Discovery's_ company were entertained
+on board the _Morning_, and on the following day the relief ship
+slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few minutes she was
+turning to the north, with every rope and spar outlined against
+the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was raised as she gathered
+way, and long after she had passed out of earshot the little band
+stood gazing at her receding hull, and wondering when they too
+would be able to take the northern track.
+
+In the _Morning_ went a letter from Scott which shows that although
+in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain for
+another winter, both he and his companions were not by any means
+dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen on getting
+a look round C. North before making for home. However we all take
+it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and contented on board,
+and shall have lots to do in winter, spring and summer. We will
+have a jolly good try to free the ship next year, though I fear
+manual labour doesn't go far with such terribly heavy ice as we
+have here; but this year we were of course unprepared, and when
+we realized the situation it was too late to begin anything like
+extensive operations. I can rely on every single man that remains
+in the ship and I gave them all the option of leaving...
+[Page 147]
+the ship's company is now practically naval-officers and men--it
+is rather queer when one looks back to the original gift of two
+officers.'
+
+Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and
+fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry;
+at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly
+before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away at
+the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.'
+
+But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers
+not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those who
+were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and Bernacchi
+are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise, and for the
+manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition the greatest
+admiration is expressed. But in some way or other Scott discovered
+good points in all the officers he mentioned, and if they were
+not satisfactory in every way his object seemed to be rather to
+excuse than to blame them. He was, however, unaffectedly glad to
+see the last of the cook, for the latter had shown himself far
+more capable at talking than at cooking, and had related so many
+of his wonderful adventures that one of the sailors reckoned that
+the sum total of these thrilling experiences must have extended
+over a period of five hundred and ninety years--which, as the sailor
+said, was a fair age even for a cook.
+
+By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled
+to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given
+to prepare the
+[Page 148]
+ship for it. Compared with the previous year the weather had been
+a great deal worse, for there had been more wind and much lower
+temperatures, and under such conditions it was hopeless to go on
+expecting the ice to break up. But it was not to be wondered at
+that they found themselves wondering what their imprisonment meant.
+Was it the present summer or the last that was the exception? For
+them this was the gravest question, since on the answer to it their
+chance of getting away next year, or at all, depended.
+
+While, however, the situation as regards the future was not altogether
+without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the best of the
+present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was determined to
+keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout the winter, and
+consequently a great number of seals and skuas had to be killed.
+At first the skua had been regarded as unfit for human food, but
+Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in a noose and promptly
+put it into the pot. And the result was so satisfactory that the
+skua at once began to figure prominently on the menu. They had,
+however, to deplore the absence of penguins from their winter diet,
+because none had been seen near the ship for a long time.
+
+On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon
+this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would be
+agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but otherwise
+we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work;
+[Page 149]
+we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in
+lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of
+light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended
+with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball furiously
+driven by Royds.'
+
+Of the months that followed little need be said, except that Scott's
+anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter passed by
+without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found them even
+more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to work away
+with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who had been
+trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities for the work,
+was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking all the
+observations, and later on in constructing temporary charts; while
+Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent many a day at
+his distant sounding holes.
+
+Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was
+carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while many
+new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in serviceable
+work that when the second long Polar night ended, Scott was able to
+write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board the _Discovery_ who
+would say that it has been a hardship.... All thoughts are turned
+towards the work that lies before us, and it would be difficult to
+be blind to the possible extent of its usefulness. Each day has
+brought it more home to us how little we know and how much there
+is to be learned, and we
+[Page 150]
+realize fully that this second year's work may more than double
+the value of our observations. Life in these regions has lost any
+terror it ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may,
+we can live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years
+to come.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 151]
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE WESTERN JOURNEY
+
+  Path of advance! but it leads
+  A long steep journey through sunk
+  Gorges, o'er mountains in snow.--M. ARNOLD.
+
+During the second winter much time and attention had to be given
+to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it
+that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But in
+spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season was
+bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an inferior
+quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were blackened
+with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many places; the
+cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear; the wind
+clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small bags, which
+were required for provisions, they were obliged to fall back on any
+sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This state of things,
+however, was very far from daunting their spirits, and long before
+the winter was over the plan of campaign for the next season had
+been drawn up.
+
+In making the program Scott knew that extended
+[Page 152]
+journeys could only be made by properly supported parties, and it
+was easy to see that his small company would not be able to make
+more than two supported journeys, though it might be just possible
+to make a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The
+next thing to decide was in what direction these parties should
+go, and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay
+in the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point
+of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must, Scott
+determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey to the
+west he decided to lead himself.
+
+In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope
+to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had
+been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many
+problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary straits
+that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges without rising
+in level. It was therefore with the main object of exploring one
+of them that the second supported party, under the leadership of
+Barne and Mulock, was to set out.
+
+The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported
+party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask
+Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on
+a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this
+question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and decided
+that the only way to get it was to go and see.
+
+[Illustration: PINNACLED ICE AT MOUTH OF FERRAR GLACIER. _Photo
+by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: PRESSURE RIDGES NORTH SIDE OF DISCOVERY BLUFF. _Photo
+by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Page 153]
+Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of shorter
+ones for specific purposes, and the most important of these were
+the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery, as it was hoped
+that Wilson would be able to observe these birds from the beginning
+of their breeding season.
+
+Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding
+arrangements, for although the _Discovery_ was mainly at the mercy
+of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything man could
+do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as they could
+hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet around them,
+the whole force of the company was to set to work at the task of
+extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to start in time
+to assure their return to the ship by the middle of December.
+
+On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton, Dailey,
+Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find a new road to
+the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a depôt ready for a greater
+effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier descends gradually
+to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor, but Armitage had
+reported most adversely on this inlet as a route for sledges, and
+in conducting his own party had led it across the high foot-hills.
+As yet Scott had not been to this region, but in the nature of
+things he could not help thinking that some practical route must
+exist up the New Harbour inlet, and that if it could be found the
+journey to the west would be much easier. And the result of this
+little journey
+[Page 154]
+was really important, for whereas Armitage, at the foot of the
+Ferrar Glacier, had seen the disturbance on the south side, and
+had concluded that it must extend right across, Scott's party
+fortunately pushed over this disturbance and found much easier
+conditions beyond it.
+
+The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further
+observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where
+glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be
+found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will
+be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course,
+is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in the
+north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall on
+the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part of
+the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice disturbance
+is caused.
+
+Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a depôt at a spot
+which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back again
+at the ship in less than a fortnight.
+
+'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied;
+we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done
+a record march, and we had endured record temperatures--at least,
+we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to tell
+these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached the
+ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first question
+was, "What temperatures
+[Page 155]
+have you had?" We replied by complacently quoting our array of
+_minus_ fifties, but he quickly cut us short by remarking that we
+were not in it.'
+
+In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap throughout
+the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they had been laying
+a depôt, had the coldest time, and after their thermometer had
+fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke at -67.7°. Royds
+and his party also had to endure -62°, but in other respects they
+were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier they found that the
+Emperor penguins had already hatched out their young, and Wilson
+was delighted to get the opportunity of studying the chicks at
+such a tender age. Commenting upon this and another journey to
+Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor penguin stands nearly
+four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty to ninety pounds....
+I think the chickens hate their parents, and when one watches the
+proceedings in a rookery it strikes one as not surprising. In the
+first place there is about one chick to ten or twelve adults, and
+each adult has an overpowering desire to "sit" on something. Both
+males and females want to nurse, and the result is that when a
+chicken finds himself alone there is a rush on the part of a dozen
+unemployed to seize him. Naturally he runs away, and dodges here
+and there till a six-stone Emperor falls on him, and then begins
+a regular football scrimmage, in which each tries to hustle the
+other off, and the end is too often disastrous to the chick....
+I think it is not
+[Page 156]
+an exaggeration to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less
+than half are killed by kindness.'
+
+From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens back
+to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep them
+warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded in his
+attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding, and Wilson
+says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the age when they
+put on their feathers, I fear that the journey home through the
+tropics would have proved too much for them, as we had no means
+of making a cool place for them on the ship.'
+
+September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on that
+day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the sun would
+be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the most careful
+preparations, and everyone was placed under his orders during the
+day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera were trained in the
+right direction, magnetic instruments were set to run at quick
+speed, and observers were told off to watch everything on which the
+absence of sun could possibly have the smallest effect. Everything,
+in short, was ready except the sun itself which obstinately refused
+to come out. 'There may,' Scott says, 'have been an eclipse of
+the sun on September 21, 1903, as the almanac said, but we should
+none of us have liked to swear to the fact.'
+
+The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the long
+journeys, and on October 12 Scott
+[Page 157]
+left the ship with a party of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First
+came his own party, which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly
+and Handsley; secondly there was a small party for the geologist,
+Ferrar, who was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there
+were the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley.
+
+Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to be the
+hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that experience
+would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it would take a
+good deal to stop the determined men whom he had chosen. At the
+start their loads were a little over 200 lbs. per man, but most
+of the party were by this time in thoroughly good condition, and
+by hard marching they covered the forty-five miles to New Harbour
+and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th.
+
+This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for here
+on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh seal-meat,
+and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter was carried
+and left at the point for each party.
+
+At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until
+the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably
+beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then
+Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split
+under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious blow;
+for although the wood runners were capable of running on snow without
+protection, on
+[Page 158]
+hard, sharp ice, especially if the sledge was heavily laden, they
+would be knocked to pieces in a very short time. It was, therefore,
+absolutely necessary to protect the runners on this journey, but
+unfortunately the German silver protection had already stood a
+season's work, and had worn thin without giving any outward sign.
+
+From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles of
+hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately
+arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage.
+
+By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over 6,000
+feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous state
+that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned up for
+inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained sound,
+and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and only one to
+take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as they could. Had
+two sledges been available the advance party might have struggled on,
+but with one they could do nothing; so they left the sound sledge
+with everything else except the half-week's provisions necessary
+to take them back, and on the following days they 'came as near
+flying as is possible with a sledge party.' On the morning of the
+19th they had eighty-seven miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on
+the 21st they had reached the ship.
+
+During this march Scott had determined to test his own party to
+the utmost, but seeing no necessity
+[Page 159]
+for the supports to be dragged into this effort he told them to
+take their own time. The supporting party, however, did not mean
+to be left behind if they could help it, and later on the night
+of the 21st they also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of
+the last hours some of the members of the supporting party, though
+determined not to give in, had been comically astounded by the
+pace which was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott,
+kept on repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my
+legs are as long as his.
+
+Five days after their flying return they were off again, and although
+the material for repairing sledges was very scanty, one sound 11-foot
+sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for Ferrar's glacier
+work. Trouble, however, almost at once began with the runners,
+and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and caused a long delay.
+But in spite of being held up by wind for two days, they reached
+their depôt on November 1, and thought at first that everything
+was safe. On examination, however, they discovered that a violent
+gale had forced open the lid of the instrument box, and that several
+things were missing, among which Scott found to his dismay was
+the 'Hints to Travelers.'
+
+'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November 1,
+'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow I
+felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second
+time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others,
+[Page 160]
+and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to take
+the risks of pushing on.'
+
+In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be--as indeed he was--out
+of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a case as this the
+sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position as a ship or a
+boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of his whereabouts
+by observation of the sun or stars, and with the help of these
+observations he finds his latitude and longitude, but to do this a
+certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to Travelers' supplies
+these necessary data, and it was on this book that Scott had been
+relying to help him to work out his sights and fix accurately the
+position of his party. Unless he went back to the ship to make
+good his loss, he was obliged to take the risk of marching into
+the unknown without knowing exactly where he was or how he was to
+get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of our "Hints to Travelers" did
+not lead us into serious trouble it caused me many a bad half-hour.'
+
+Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about
+it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant
+attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach on
+the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000 feet.
+
+So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but November
+4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described afterwards as
+'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In the morning of
+the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold, increasing wind,
+[Page 161]
+but later on the sun disappeared and the weather became very
+threatening. Still, however, they battled on and were half-way
+up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when the air became
+thick with driving snow and the full force of the gale burst upon
+them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded in reaching the
+top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch of snow on which
+to camp, but nothing could be found except bare, blue ice. By this
+time the position was becoming serious, all of them were frost-bitten
+in the face, and although the runners of the sledges were split
+again so badly that they could barely pull them over the surface,
+they did not dare to leave the sledges in the thick drift.
+
+At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but the
+snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was almost
+as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was this or
+nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party, and
+dug for all he was worth without making the least impression. At
+this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him, and
+being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few small
+blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and again it
+and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour passed before
+the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote, 'but experience
+saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty confident that
+we could not have stood another hour in the open.'
+
+Little, however, did they expect when shelter
+[Page 162]
+was gained that a week would pass before they could resume their
+march. From November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile
+not a vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped
+continuously in a thick fog of driving snow.
+
+In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the _Beagle_,'
+and first one and then another would read this aloud, until frozen
+fingers prevented the pages from being turned over. Only one piece
+of work were they able to perform, and this on the first day when,
+thinking the storm would soon blow over, they hauled the sledges
+beneath one of the tents and stripped the German silver ready for
+the onward march.
+
+By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them,
+and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the
+health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might
+be he would try to start on the following morning.
+
+This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes
+both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the
+heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling
+in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this
+unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of
+bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is
+slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning,
+but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be
+done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.'
+
+Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the
+[Page 163]
+storm, and though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was
+possible at last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's
+party separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall
+and eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident.
+On starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at
+once went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when
+they began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting
+to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were
+in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened;
+our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.'
+
+But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the
+night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With
+five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many
+miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were,
+as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different
+party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp'
+on the morning of the 11th.
+
+But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started the
+journey to the west before troubles again began to gather round them.
+The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their sleeping-bags
+and night-jackets with ice, and with falling temperatures this ice
+had so little chance to evaporate that camping arrangements were
+acutely uncomfortable; and as each night the thermometer fell a
+little lower,
+[Page 164]
+the chance of relief from this state of things could scarcely be
+said to exist. The wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it
+was not very strong, when combined with the low temperature and
+rarefied air its effect was blighting.
+
+'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to conceive
+a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at this time,
+when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs upon the
+last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands. Yet
+before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word!
+Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook
+ever so comfortless?'
+
+So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite of
+every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the 17th
+the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans leading
+with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed with the
+other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge had great
+difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself felt thoroughly
+strong and well, some of his companions were beginning to fail. As
+was natural with such men not one of them would own that he was
+exhausted, and in consequence it was only by paying the keenest
+attention that he could detect those who from sheer incapacity
+were relaxing their strain on the traces. And his position was not
+pleasant even when he knew, for to tell any of these brave people
+that they must turn back was a most unenviable
+[Page 165]
+task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched on, though
+Scott was sure that better progress would have been made had the
+party been divided.
+
+Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley
+more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean
+to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he
+begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's
+opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would make
+him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his diary:
+'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children! The
+boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has been
+pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes through the
+traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has never uttered a
+word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is on him he straightens
+up and pretends he is just as fit as ever. What is one to do with
+such people?'
+
+What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before, but
+on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley that
+they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise their
+disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had to be.'
+
+From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision,
+three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and his
+companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back upon
+this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a
+[Page 166]
+high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the
+successful work that was done.
+
+'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be
+a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered....
+Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at
+the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task
+we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked
+out on board the ship.'
+
+Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40° or below, while
+during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25°, and with
+this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact the wind was
+the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces. So cracked were
+their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the first half-hour
+of the morning march, before they were warmed up to the work, was
+dreadful, as then all their sore places got frost-bitten. In short the
+last week of their outward march was a searching test of endurance,
+but they had resolved to march on until November 30, and in spite
+of the miserable conditions there was no turning back before the
+month had ended.
+
+Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30 had
+come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march, thank
+heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week but the
+determination to carry out our original intention of going on to
+the end of the month, and so here we have pitched our last camp.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 167]
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE RETURN FROM THE WEST
+
+  Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
+  Bound its broad zone of stillness.--SHELLEY.
+
+'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march
+out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long way to
+the west from my rough noon observation of the compass variation.'
+But not for anything in the world did he want again to see the
+interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after this great march
+he says: 'For me the long month which we spent on the Victoria Land
+summit remains as some vivid but evil dream. I have a memory of
+continuous strain on mind and body, lightened only by the unfailing
+courage and cheerfulness of my companions.'
+
+From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to
+penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold,
+and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards
+the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the
+time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their
+powers of marching could they hope
+[Page 168]
+to retreat in safety from their position, and December opened with
+such overcast weather that valuable time had to be spent in the
+tent. During the next few days, however, good marches were made,
+until on December 9 everything changed abruptly for the worse.
+
+On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably bad,
+that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge along
+at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in view
+of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should be
+increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of oil,
+and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of days
+their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold lunch
+and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently doesn't
+much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the form of
+a _hoosh_ and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.'
+
+Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was
+as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty
+of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single
+point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon them,
+and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger there was
+no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that they were
+becoming 'gaunt shadows.'
+
+During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more
+or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack.
+His attitude
+[Page 169]
+to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance, as though,
+while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less responsible
+for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion when told that
+it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone, 'My poor old nose
+again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time it had been brought
+round a storm was blowing, and though they continued to march,
+the drift was so thick that at any moment they might have walked
+over the edge of a precipice--a fitting prelude to what, by general
+consent, was admitted to be the most adventurous day in their lives.
+
+Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were at
+first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was blowing and
+high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In this predicament
+Scott realized that it was both rash to go forward, as the air was
+becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally rash to stop, for if they
+had to spend another long spell in a blizzard camp, starvation would
+soon be staring them in the face. So he asked Evans and Lashly if
+they were ready to take the risk of going on, and promptly discovered
+that they were. Then they marched straight for the ice disturbance,
+and as the surface became smoother and the slope steeper their
+sledge began to overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and
+Lashly behind to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front
+to guide its course, and what happened afterwards is described
+most graphically in the diary of the 15th.
+
+[Page 170]
+'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward
+on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown
+off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time
+to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced myself
+to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an express
+train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and we all
+three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with an
+ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought that
+flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if he
+attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to this
+effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there came
+a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in the
+midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide smoothly
+and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes leaving
+it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken limbs
+again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping.
+
+'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled
+with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came
+down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard,
+wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment
+or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering
+what had happened.
+
+'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and
+in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken.
+But we had by
+[Page 171]
+no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one black bruise from
+knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough to land once on
+his back, which is bruised and very painful.... I, as the lightest,
+escaped the easiest, yet before the two men crawled painfully to
+their feet their first question was to ask if I had been hurt.
+
+'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now to
+my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance of our
+own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared well-remembered
+landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken ice-wall over which we
+had fallen, I now recognized at once the most elevated ice cascade
+of our valley....
+
+'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position
+was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could
+not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any
+other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our depôt; it
+was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark. Now
+in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised... and
+down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Depôt Nunatak
+where peace and plenty awaited us.'
+
+The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the end,
+but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken open the
+biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions left,
+except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager contents
+of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would
+[Page 172]
+allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge
+and marched on towards the depôt. Before them lay a long plateau, at
+the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second cascade,
+and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more gradual
+icy surface down to the depôt.
+
+Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite
+unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness to
+their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought Scott
+in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his right
+and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid, and
+Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had this
+order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing and
+disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from following
+and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace. The sledge
+flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which Scott and Evans
+had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked by the jerk but
+the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,' Scott says, 'I
+remember absolutely nothing until I found myself dangling at the
+end of my trace with blue walls on either side and a very horrid
+looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged by our movements
+continued to shower down on our heads. As a first step I took off
+my goggles; I then discovered that Evans was hanging just above
+me. I asked him if he was all right, and received a reassuring
+reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.'
+
+[Page 173]
+Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed
+feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg
+suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising
+himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle
+he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially
+between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the
+right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another
+such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The
+projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or
+not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had
+slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he
+could pilot his feet to the bridge.
+
+'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I realized
+what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet over our
+heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at once what a
+frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask what he could
+do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed companion;
+for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with one hand,
+his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski. At length
+he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken sledge,
+and so making our support more secure.'
+
+But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's
+active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge
+began to slip. The only
+[Page 174]
+possible course, therefore, was for Scott and Evans to climb out
+unaided, and, after a word with Evans Scott decided to try first;
+though he confessed afterwards that he never expected to reach
+the top. Not for a longtime had he swarmed a rope, and to do so
+in thick clothing, heavy crampons, and with frost-bitten fingers
+seemed to him impossible. Of the struggle that followed he remembered
+little except that he got a rest when he could plant his foot in
+the belt of his own harness, and again when his feet held on the
+rings of the belt. 'Then came a mighty effort, till I reached the
+stirrup formed by the rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering
+all the strength that remained, I reached the sledge itself and
+flung myself on to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and
+it was perhaps then that I realized that his position had been
+the worst of all.'
+
+But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action for
+several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists, and not
+until their circulation came back could he get to work. With two on
+top and only one below the position, however, was very different,
+and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was landed on the surface.
+For a minute or two they could only stand and look at one another.
+Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,' which was the first sign of
+surprise he had shown.
+
+By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their depôt, and
+passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised, sore
+and tired as they were,
+[Page 175]
+Lashly sang merrily as he stirred the pot, while Scott and Evans
+sat on the sledge, shifted their foot-gear, spread out their clothes
+to dry, and talked cheerily about the happenings of the day.
+
+From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except
+to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that they
+were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front of
+them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their second
+depôt and could look out towards the sea, they did not care how far
+round they might have to walk if only that stubborn sheet of ice
+had broken away. But it was too evident that their homeward track
+might be as straight as they chose, as only in the far distance was
+open water to be seen, and with sorrow they realized that there
+must still be many miles of ice between it and the _Discovery_.
+
+Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after
+an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725
+miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted
+the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered 1,098
+miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed heights
+which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the _Discovery_
+Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley on board, because
+all the rest of the company had gone to the north to saw through the
+ice; and during the few days of rest that he allowed himself before
+going to the sawing-camp, he was able to read the reports of the
+[Page 176]
+officers who had led the other journeys, and to see what excellent
+work had been done during his absence.
+
+Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially
+to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and
+Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but
+throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably,
+with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately
+plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions
+and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne
+also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great
+Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went
+on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting
+series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself
+belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell
+upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside
+the tent while he was at work inside it.
+
+Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier, but
+had also made a complete examination of the enormous and interesting
+pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great Barrier ice-mass
+with the land, and subsequently had spent much time in studying the
+windless area to the south of Ross Island. Also, with Armitage and
+Heald, he had made an excellent little journey, on which Armitage
+obtained some very good photographs,
+[Page 177]
+sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions
+of the whole continent.
+
+In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working
+strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the
+second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate
+themselves that the main part of their work was done.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 178]
+CHAPTER X
+
+RELEASE
+
+                      And Thor
+  Set his shoulder hard against the stern
+  To push the ship through...
+  ...and the water gurgled in
+  And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd.
+    M. ARNOLD.
+
+After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was
+going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he
+started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and
+a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt
+to free the _Discovery_ were drawn up, there had been, of course,
+no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations began,
+and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly the
+same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended to
+the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There he
+directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom in
+Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations
+in accordance with the instructions he had received.
+
+At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him,
+[Page 179]
+as in the middle of December the open water, instead of being up
+to the islets, ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under
+the circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out to
+the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the middle
+of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge.
+
+Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at
+first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were
+all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land
+of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that,
+apart from the labour, they were having a most enjoyable time,
+though no one imagined that the work would be useful.
+
+In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must be
+in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much struck,'
+he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully carried on
+this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There could have
+been no officer or man among them who did not see from the first
+how utterly useless it was, and yet there has been no faltering
+or complaint, simply because all have felt that, as the sailor
+expresses it, "Them's the orders."'
+
+With twenty miles of ice between the _Discovery_ and freedom, the
+possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so although
+most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans, Handsley
+and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate stock of
+penguins. And then Scott being unable
+[Page 180]
+to do any good by remaining in the ship started off to the north
+with Wilson, the former being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see
+what chance there was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study
+the life of that region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with
+no hard marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely
+way, on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water
+when Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked
+round, and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with
+thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they
+had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was to
+have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating to
+think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two years.
+During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and the skua
+gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper they took
+soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran within a few
+yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight. 'Then,' Scott
+says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with seal kidneys;
+eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was simply delicious.
+I have come to the conclusion that life in the Antarctic Regions
+can be very pleasant.'
+
+Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast
+on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott,
+looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond,
+suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle reigned
+supreme, and while they were searching for
+[Page 181]
+boots and other things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why,
+there's another,' and without any doubt two vessels were framed
+in the doorway. It had at once been taken for granted that the
+first ship was the _Morning_, but what in the name of fortune was
+the meaning of the other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine.
+The easiest and quickest way to find out was to go straight on
+board, for the ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles
+to the westward, but if they had followed this simple plan their
+companions on the _Discovery_ would have known nothing about it,
+and would have been compelled to wait for their mails. So they
+started southward to find the penguin hunters, and then to send
+them to establish communications with the ship. For a long time
+no sight of the men could be seen, but after traveling about six
+miles Scott and Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of
+life about it; indeed they were within a hundred yards before in
+answer to their shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still
+munching the remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought
+they had not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained,
+they didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the
+matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't
+you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would be
+all right." In other words, they as good as said that life was so
+extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible object in
+worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief expedition.'
+When, however, they
+[Page 182]
+had got their orders they were off at once, and Scott and Wilson
+went back to the ships and soon found out from Colbeck why the
+_Terra Nova_ had accompanied the _Morning_, and how strangely the
+aspect of affairs had altered. Writing in his diary on that night
+Scott says, 'I can only record that in spite of the good home news,
+and in spite of the pleasure of seeing old friends again, I was
+happier last night than I am to-night.'
+
+Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of
+one were these. Scott's report taken by the _Morning_ had left
+the strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to
+the south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to
+meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time enough
+to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities of the
+case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the Societies
+to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually the latter
+agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief expedition,
+provided that the _Morning_, as she stood, was delivered over to
+them. The Government naturally placed the management of affairs in
+the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the responsibility
+it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order that there should
+be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled.
+
+The _Terra Nova_, one of the finest of the whaling ships, was bought,
+and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry MacKay,
+was engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November 1903 she
+layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in
+[Page 183]
+December she was joined by the _Morning_, Captain Colbeck being
+directed to take charge of this joint venture until both ships
+could come under Scott's command.
+
+Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships
+arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was
+not, however, the arrival of the _Terra Nova_, whose captain from
+the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another matter
+that made Scott so sad--and naturally sad--at this time.
+
+In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation
+had formed the opinion that the _Discovery_ was stuck fast in the
+ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion or not
+is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty to see
+that the expense of another relief expedition should be avoided.
+Consequently there was no other course open to them except to tell
+Scott to abandon the _Discovery_, if she could not be freed in
+time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But necessary
+as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions in a very
+cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a sailor would
+go through much rather than abandon his ship, but the ties which
+bound Scott and his company to the _Discovery_ were very far beyond
+the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth of sentiment not in the
+least surprising when their associations with her are remembered.
+
+In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving
+her had never entered their heads.
+[Page 184]
+Some time she would be free again, and even if they had to spend
+a third winter in her they had determined to go through with it,
+and make themselves as comfortable as possible.
+
+It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were
+rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that unless
+a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks, they must bid
+a long farewell to their beloved ship and return to their homes
+as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief ships there fell
+the first and last cloud of gloom which was ever allowed on board
+the _Discovery_. And as day followed day with no improvement in
+the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until anyone might easily
+have imagined that an Antarctic expedition was a most dismal affair.
+
+On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and
+this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I told
+them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence. I have
+not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.'
+
+For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten miles
+to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged to notify
+any changes in the ice, but day after day the only signal was 'No
+change in the ice conditions.'
+
+On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something that
+did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and instruments
+should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever the future held
+[Page 185]
+in store he saw no reason why this should not be done, and to have
+anything at all to do during this trying time was a blessing; though
+he had by no means given up hope that the Discovery would be freed.
+
+After a long spell at Cape Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship
+on the night of the 21st with news that was all the more welcome at
+such an anxious time. Strolling over the beach one day to inspect
+what he thought was a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was
+quite different from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to
+the camp for his gun. Two of the _Morning_ officers were in camp
+with him, and all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange
+new beast. Their great fear was that they might only succeed in
+wounding it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite
+of the temperature of the water they waded round it before they
+attacked. These tactics were successful, but their quarry when
+dispatched was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to
+examine where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came
+over in the _Morning_, and with the aid of boats and ropes the
+carcass was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion
+that the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie
+Island, but never before seen within the Antarctic circle.
+
+No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces
+broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships were
+four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight before. But,
+[Page 186]
+if the conditions were to be as they had been two years before,
+thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in fifteen days,
+a far more rapid rate than it had been going during the previous
+fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of real promise
+occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway very slightly under
+the action of a long swell, its edge against the land rising and
+falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all very restless, constantly
+dashing up the hill to the lookout station or wandering from place
+to place to observe the effects of the swell. But it is long since
+we enjoyed such a cheerful experience as we get on watching the
+loose pieces of ice jostling one another at Hut Point.'
+
+Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February arrived
+and brought the best of news with it. During the day nothing unusual
+happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner that the excitement
+began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and a voice sang out down
+the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!'
+
+'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut
+Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking
+up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not
+thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than
+a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and
+carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was
+hurrying away to the north-west.
+
+'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight;
+[Page 187]
+the sun was low behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front
+was intensely white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking
+leads looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a
+sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of this
+peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that great
+ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.'
+
+But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the
+relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the
+first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company
+of spectators had clustered; although the little _Morning_, with
+her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to hold
+her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten those
+on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships crashed
+into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild excitement
+they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly heard.
+
+Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener
+and keener. On came the _Terra Nova_, but in spite of all her mighty
+efforts the persistent little _Morning_, dodging right and left
+and seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at her side, and
+still seemed to have a chance of winning the race.
+
+Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments,
+stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene.
+
+'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then a burst
+of frenzied cheering broke out. It
+[Page 188]
+seemed to us almost too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all
+the thick ice had vanished, and there remained only the thin area
+of decayed floe which has lately made the approach to the ships
+so dangerous; a few minutes later the _Terra Nova_ forged ahead
+and came crashing into the open, to be followed almost immediately
+by her stout little companion, and soon both ships were firmly
+anchored to all that remains of the _Discovery's_ prison, the wedge
+that still holds in our small bay....
+
+'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost
+side by side; a rope from the _Terra Nova_ is actually secured
+to the _Discovery_. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly
+not we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.'
+
+The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was cracked
+in many places, and would doubtless have departed of its own accord
+in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to get away, decided
+to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently at 1 A.M. on February
+16 there was an explosion which shook the whole bay, and rudely
+disturbed not only the ice but also the slumbers of those who were
+not members of the explosion party.
+
+A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and when
+all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a thunderous
+report which shook the ship throughout, and then all was calm again.
+For a brief moment one might have imagined that nothing had happened,
+but then one saw that each
+[Page 189]
+crack was slowly widening; presently there came the gurgle of water
+as it was sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute
+there was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the
+keel was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the
+great mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our
+good ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors
+with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was that
+the _Discovery_ came to her own again--the right to ride the high
+seas.'
+
+On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or
+happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation
+they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after such
+a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard work lay
+in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder of their
+program. If the _Discovery_ was free before the navigable season
+closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time in exploring
+the region to the westward of Cape North, but now after two years'
+imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme. Directly the relief
+ships had arrived he had asked them for as great a quantity as
+possible, but although the replies had at first been satisfactory,
+a long month's fight with wind and ice had sadly reduced the amount
+they could afford to give. The only thing to do was to get without
+any delay what could be spared, and on the afternoon of the 16th
+the _Terra Nova_ came alongside to hand over her supply. 'The
+afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully calm and
+[Page 190]
+bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on the termination
+of our long and successful struggle with the ice.... We little
+guessed what lay before us.'
+
+On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved inscription
+to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit of Hut Point,
+and on the following day the small company landed together and
+stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott read some short
+prayers.
+
+The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled
+back to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to their
+shipmate, but weather of this kind had been too common to attract
+attention. On that night Captain MacKay was dining in the _Discovery_
+for the first time, and a great effort had been made to show him how
+good an Antarctic feast could be. In the middle of dinner, however,
+word came down to Scott that the wind had sprung up, and although
+he expected nothing serious he went up to see what was happening.
+Then he saw they were in for a stiff blow, and reluctantly had to
+inform his guests of the fact. One glance at the sky satisfied
+MacKay, who was over the rail like a shot, and in a few minutes
+the _Terra Nova_ was steaming for the open and lost in the drift.'
+
+[Illustration: THE 'TERRA NOVA' LEAVING THE ANTARCTIC. _Photo by
+F. Debenham._]
+
+Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did not
+altogether like the look of things and determined to get up steam as
+soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the engine-room
+after such a long period of disuse. But early in the morning
+[Page 191]
+of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and the _Discovery_
+began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming manner.
+
+'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in
+spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I watched
+anxiously to see if the ship dragged.
+
+'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in half
+an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot astern
+and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first, the
+steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant situation,
+as the distance grew shorter every minute, until the spray of the
+breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was soon followed by
+a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice. We rebounded and
+struck again, and our head was just beginning to falloff and the
+ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what would have happened
+then) when steam was announced.'
+
+Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone
+would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once around
+Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open sea before
+them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter of a mile out,
+though off the end there was a shallow patch which had to be cleared
+before safety could be reached. So finding that no headway was
+being made he began to edge out towards the Point, and all seemed
+well until, nearly opposite to the Point itself, he saw to his
+alarm that a strong current was sweeping past.
+
+[Page 192]
+'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm
+over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the
+fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant
+after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with
+our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead
+to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to
+set us faster ashore.
+
+'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that followed
+were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each moment the
+ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her from stem
+to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly that, strong
+as was her build, she could not long survive such awful blows.'
+
+Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and
+crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be
+done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility
+of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next best
+thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather moderated.
+Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could rely on the
+support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton already had
+made a list of weights by the removal of which the ship could be
+lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned to discuss the manner
+in which the anchors could be laid out he also had his scheme cut
+and dried.
+
+The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after
+[Page 193]
+they assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the
+_Discovery_. But when they were half-way through this silent meal
+Mulock, the officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said, 'The
+ship's working astern, sir.'
+
+In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both wind
+and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But what
+surprised him even more was that the current, which had been running
+strongly to the north, had turned and was running with equal speed
+to the south. Each time that the ship lifted on a wave she worked
+two or three inches astern, and though she was still grinding heavily
+she no longer struck the bottom with such terrific force. Scarcely,
+however, had these facts been observed when Skelton rushed up to
+say that the inlets were free again.
+
+'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together
+and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs
+were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve, and
+the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or two
+the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady grating
+under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and ceased as
+the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water.... Rarely,
+if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable plight as
+ours to find herself free and safe within the space of an hour....
+To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws fourteen feet cannot
+be a pleasant position--nor can there be a doubt
+[Page 194]
+that the shocks which the _Discovery_ sustained would have very
+seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.'
+
+None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short
+time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the
+18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the
+southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided
+to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and
+complete the coaling operations.
+
+On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent,
+no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as a
+sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists,
+lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working
+with all their might on the coaling whips.
+
+The _Morning_ handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this was all
+the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the narrowest
+margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward without joining
+in any attempt at further exploration. 'His practical common sense
+told him he could be of little use to us, and with his usual loyalty
+he never hesitated to act for the best, at whatever sacrifice to
+his own hopes and wishes.'
+
+Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged that
+the three ships should journey up the coast together and then separate,
+the _Morning_ proceeding to the north, while the _Discovery_ and
+the _Terra Nova_ turned west. The companies of both relief
+[Page 195]
+ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the _Discovery_
+when she entered her first civilized port; so Scott fixed upon
+Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot at which they might
+meet before the final return to New Zealand.
+
+February 20 saw the _Discovery_ speeding along a stretch of coast
+that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously
+made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged
+to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now
+gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than
+this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking
+innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally
+indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery
+to his sketch-book.
+
+Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the
+engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end; and on
+the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On inspection
+Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely shattered,
+and was held together by little more than its weight; as the tiller
+was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but with a lag of
+many degrees, so that the connection between the two was evidently
+insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that they could not
+hope to weather a gale without losing all control over the ship, and
+that no time was to be lost in shipping their spare rudder in place
+of the damaged one. So Scott determined to seek shelter in Robertson
+[Page 196]
+Bay, and by night the damaged rudder had been hoisted on deck and
+the spare one prepared for lowering into its place. Since the
+_Discovery_ had left winter quarters an almost incredible amount
+of work had been done to bring her into sea trim. Difficulty after
+difficulty had arisen, but the energy of the company had never
+slackened, and by February 25 Scott was able to say that everything
+was once more in order, though he was a little doubtful about the
+steering power of their spare rudder.
+
+At this time it was all the more important that the ship should
+give no further trouble, because according to their program they
+were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite
+enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With high
+hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the point
+reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned to the
+west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice, however, was
+destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their advance, and on
+the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east and try to find a
+way around this formidable barrier. 'It is grievously disappointing
+to find the pack so far to the east; Ross carried the open water
+almost to Cape North.' And again on March 1, Scott sounds a note
+of lamentation: 'There can be no doubt that since leaving Victoria
+Land we have been skirting a continuous mass of pack, which must
+cover the whole sea south of the Balleny Islands. That it should
+have lain so far to the eastward this year is very annoying;
+[Page 197]
+however, if we can push on upon this course we ought to strike the
+islands.'
+
+Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and
+by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others
+that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them
+considerably, and not until some time later was the problem solved.
+In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this region, and
+three years later Ross saw land which he imagined was to the southward
+of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it to be divided into three
+distinct masses named it the Russell Islands. Consequently Scott
+arrived expecting to see two groups of islands, and was naturally
+perplexed when only one group was to be seen. After, however, studying
+the accounts of these islands and comparing them with what he could
+actually see, he recognized that they had just passed Balleny's
+Sturge Island, which Balleny had seen from the north, and so could
+have had no idea of its length in a north-and-south line. Later
+Ross must have seen this same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite
+possible, from a great distance must have thought that it was divided
+into three, and hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate
+group. Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings
+to fix accurately the position of each island.
+
+Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny
+Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes
+claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige
+of it could they
+[Page 198]
+see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that Wilkes Land was
+once and for all definitely disposed of. With this negative, but
+nevertheless important, result, the exploring work ended, and although
+a lack of coal had prevented their cherished plan of rounding Cape
+North, they had at least the satisfaction of clearing up some
+geographical misconceptions in a more northerly latitude.
+
+From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of
+greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on board
+the _Discovery_, for she was in very light trim and tossed about
+the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the greatest
+relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross Harbour on
+the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay.
+
+Neither the _Terra Nova_ nor the _Morning_ had yet arrived, and
+the days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart as
+possible before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus,
+in a few days, the _Discovery_ looked as though she had spent her
+adventurous years in some peaceful harbor.
+
+On March 19 the _Terra Nova_ hove in sight, and was followed on
+the next day by the _Morning_. Both ships had experienced the most
+terrible weather, and everyone on board the little _Morning_ declared
+that she had only been saved from disaster by the consummate seamanship
+of Captain Colbeck.
+
+A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most
+favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1
+[Page 199]
+off the Heads of Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely
+berthed alongside the jetty, from which they had sailed with such
+hearty wishes more than two years before.
+
+'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered
+on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can
+never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express
+our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that
+could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full
+months before we set out on our last long voyage.'
+
+June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later they
+anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they replenished
+their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic observations
+in connection with their Southern Survey. And from the Falkland
+Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another testimony of
+the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The praise,' he wrote,
+'for whatever success we have had is really due to the ship's company
+as a whole rather than to individuals. That is not very clear,
+perhaps; what I mean is that the combination of individual effort
+for the common good has achieved our results, and the absence of
+any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout has been "share
+and share alike," and its most practical form lies, perhaps, in the
+fact that throughout our three years there has been no distinction
+between the food served to officers and men.
+
+[Page 200]
+'Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no
+greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so
+loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head.
+
+'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic,
+for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition
+of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.'
+
+Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted, and
+for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to welcome
+and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy of their
+return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought that the
+end had come to those ties, which had held together the small band
+of the _Discovery_ in the closest companionship and most unswerving
+loyalty.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 201]
+THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+
+
+[Page 203]
+PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION'
+
+By Sir CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B.
+
+Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer,
+able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors,
+and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility
+to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living
+could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic
+Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object
+was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott
+entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence
+and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the
+history of Arctic traveling, combined with experience of different
+conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and
+founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling.
+
+His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings
+along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the
+discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination
+of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains--a
+range of great height and many hundreds
+[Page 204]
+of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a distance
+out at sea--and above all the discovery of the great ice cap on
+which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable
+Polar journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff
+worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being
+recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
+
+The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his
+beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work.
+The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of
+battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that
+five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours.
+
+The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific,
+to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It
+was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely
+equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the Polar
+regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these
+shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement
+of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study, of
+physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before
+composed the staff of a Polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's
+objects were strictly scientific, including the completion and
+extension of his former discoveries. The results will be explained
+in the second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive
+and important. Never before, in the
+[Page 205]
+Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal observations
+been taken, in one locality, during five years. It was also part
+of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by a long and most
+arduous journey, but here again his intention was, if possible,
+to achieve scientific results on the way, especially hoping to
+discover fossils which would throw light on the former history of
+the great range of mountains which he had made known to science.
+
+The principal aim of this great man--for he rightly has his niche
+among the Polar _Dii Majores_--was the advancement of knowledge.
+From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our
+time, and the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply
+impressed with the beauty of his character. The chief traits which
+shone forth through his life were conspicuous in the hour of death.
+There are few events in history to be compared, for grandeur and
+pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent wilderness of
+snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his dearest friends
+beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil dropped from his dying
+grasp. There was no thought of himself, only the earnest desire
+to give comfort and consolation to others in their sorrow. His
+very last lines were written lest he who induced him to enter upon
+Antarctic work should now feel regret for what he had done.
+
+'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him,
+and never regretted his putting me in command of the _Discovery_.'
+
+[Page 206]
+The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain
+Scott between 1905 and 1910:
+
+  January to July, 1906            Admiralty (Assistant Director
+                                   of Naval Intelligence.)
+  Aug. 21, 1906, to Jan. 1, 1907   _Victorious_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Jan. 2, 1907, to Aug. 24, 1907   _Albermarle_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Aug. 25, 1907, to Jan. 24, 1908  Not actively employed afloat
+                                   between these dates.
+  Jan. 25, 1908, to May 29, 1908   _Essex_ (Captain).
+  May 30, 1908, to March 23, 1909  _Bulwark_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Colville, Rear-Admiral
+                                   the Nore Division, Home Fleet).
+
+Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed
+to H.M.S. _President_ for British Antarctic Expedition June 1,
+1910.
+
+[Page 207]
+On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was
+married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter
+Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909.
+
+On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for the
+British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his appeal
+resulted in £10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund. Then the
+Government made a grant of £20,000, and grants followed from the
+Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
+
+Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made
+to purchase the steamship _Terra Nova_, the largest and strongest
+of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing
+was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged
+upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave
+Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott from
+leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he sailed
+in the _Saxon_ to South Africa, and there awaited the arrival of
+the _Terra Nova_.
+
+
+[Page 208]
+BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910
+
+SHORE PARTIES
+
+_Officers_
+
+    Name                     Rank, &c.
+  Robert Falcon Scott      _Captain, C.V.O., R.N._
+  Edward R. G. R. Evans    _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Victor L. A. Campbell    _Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List)_
+  Henry R. Bowers          _Lieutenant, R.I.M._
+  Lawrence E. G. Oates     _Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons._
+  G. Murray Levick         _Surgeon, R.N._
+  Edward L. Atkinson       _Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist._
+
+_Scientific Staff_
+
+  Edward Adrian Wilson     _B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the
+                           Scientific Staff, and Zoologist._
+  George C. Simpson        _D.Sc., Meteorologist._
+  T. Griffith Taylor       _B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist._
+  Edward W. Nelson         _Biologist._
+  Frank Debenham           _B.A., B.Sc., Geologist._
+  Charles S. Wright        _B.A., Physicist._
+  Raymond E. Priestley     _Geologist._
+  Herbert G. Ponting       _F.R.G.S, Camera Artist._
+  Cecil H. Meares          _In Charge of Dogs._
+  Bernard C. Day           _Motor Engineer._
+  Apsley Cherry-Garrard    _B.A., Asst. Zoologist._
+  Tryggve Gran             _Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R.,
+                           B.A., Ski Expert._
+
+[Page 209]
+_Men_
+
+  W. Lashly                _Chief Stoker, R.N._
+  W. W. Archer             _Chief Steward, late R.N._
+  Thomas Clissold          _Cook, late R.N._
+  Edgar Evans              _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Robert Forde             _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Thomas Crean             _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Thomas S. Williamson     _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Patrick Keohane          _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  George P. Abbott         _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Frank V. Browning        _Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N._
+  Harry Dickason           _Able Seaman, R.N._
+  F. J. Hooper             _Steward, late R.N._
+  Anton Omelchenko         _Groom._
+  Demetri Gerof            _Dog Driver._
+
+SHIP'S PARTY
+
+_Officers, &c._
+
+  Harry L. L. Pennell      _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Henry E. de P. Rennick   _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Wilfred M. Bruce         _Lieutenant, R.N.R._
+  Francis R. H. Drake      _Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired),
+                           Secretary and Meteorologist in Ship._
+  Denis G. Lillie          _M.A., Biologist in Ship._
+
+  James R. Dennistoun      _In Charge of Mules in Ship._
+  Alfred B. Cheetham       _R.N.R., Boatswain._
+  William Williams         _Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N.,
+                           2nd Engineer._
+  William A. Horton        _Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer._
+  Francis E. C. Davies     _Leading Shipwright, R.N._
+  Frederick Parsons        _Petty Officer, R.N._
+[Page 210]
+  William L. Heald         _Late P.O., R.N._
+  Arthur S. Bailey         _Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N._
+  Albert Balson            _Leading Seaman, R.N._
+  Joseph Leese             _Able Seaman, R.N._
+  John Hugh Mather         _Petty Officer, R.N.V.R._
+  Robert Oliphant          _Able Seaman._
+  Thomas F. McLeod         _Able Seaman._
+  Mortimer McCarthy        _Able Seaman._
+  William Knowles          _Able Seaman._
+  Charles Williams         _Able Seaman._
+  James Skelton            _Able Seaman._
+  William McDonald         _Able Seaman._
+  James Paton              _Able Seaman._
+  Robert Brissenden        _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Edward A. McKenzie       _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  William Burton           _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Bernard J. Stone         _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Angus McDonald           _Fireman._
+  Thomas McGillon          _Fireman._
+  Charles Lammas           _Fireman._
+  W. H. Neale              _Steward._
+
+
+
+
+[Page 211]
+CHAPTER I
+
+THROUGH STORMY SEAS
+
+  The ice was here, the ice was there,
+  The ice was all around:
+  It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
+  Like noises in a swound.--COLERIDGE.
+
+No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic
+expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The
+selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers
+was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the
+applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of
+the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to
+the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer
+exists in the British race.
+
+On June 15, 1910, the _Terra Nova_ left Cardiff upon her great
+mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28, at
+Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done before
+she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual the kindness
+received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.'
+
+A month of strenuous labour followed, and then, on
+[Page 212]
+November 26, they said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling
+at Port Chalmers set out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage
+of their voyage. Two days later they encountered a stiff wind from
+the N. W. and a confused sea.
+
+'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the
+circumstances.
+
+'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can
+devise--and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close side
+by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together and groom
+between--swaying, swaying continually to the plunging, irregular
+motion.'
+
+Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four
+more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very
+large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4.
+A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space
+hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were
+so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they
+were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was
+contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases,
+which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the poop
+and abreast the motor sledges.
+
+Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley
+forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of
+coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between
+the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three
+dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although
+[Page 213]
+they were given as much protection as possible, their position
+was far from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion,
+'a picture of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for
+these poor creatures.'
+
+The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and
+very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water over
+the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break loose on
+the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by the loose
+coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and swung against
+the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering rams, no lashings
+could possibly have withstood them, and so the only remedy was to
+set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and re-lash the cases.
+During this difficult and dangerous task seas continually broke
+over the men, and at such times they had to cling for dear life to
+some fixture to prevent themselves from being washed overboard. No
+sooner was some appearance of order restored than another unusually
+heavy wave tore away the lashings, and the work had to be done
+allover again.
+
+As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the
+ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail
+and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.'
+
+From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night, reports
+came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their legs. But
+worse news was to follow, for in the early morning news came from
+the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and that the water had
+risen over the gratings.
+
+[Page 214]
+From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center
+of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained.
+Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck
+gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with donkey
+engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water might be
+got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes of pumping
+invariably led to the same result--a general choking of the pumps.
+
+The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger of
+becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have happened.
+The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble and its suction
+could not be reached, for as the water crept higher it got in contact
+with the boiler and eventually became so hot that no one could work
+at the suctions. A great struggle to conquer these misfortunes
+followed, but Williams had at last to confess that he was beaten
+and must draw fires.
+
+'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black.
+The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop,
+a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of
+the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on
+the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead.
+It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the lee
+rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging to the
+main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which swept
+aft and high on the poop. On one
+[Page 215]
+occasion I was waist deep when standing on the rail of the poop.'
+
+All that could be done for the time being was to organize the afterguard
+to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on the choked
+hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt to bale out
+the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets was passed
+up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous work was
+going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never for a moment
+lost their good spirits.
+
+In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the
+pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room
+bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the
+coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared
+the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which
+were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came from
+the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had been
+overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the engine-room,
+and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties were able
+to stop their labours.
+
+The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they might
+easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks of the
+ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five gallons
+of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost. Another
+dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke and he
+disappeared, but the next wave miraculously
+[Page 216]
+washed him back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again,
+but anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching
+heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these long-suffering
+animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest, and Scott's earnest
+prayer was that there might be no more gales. 'December ought to
+be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always has been, and just now
+conditions point to fine weather. Well, we must be prepared for
+anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about these animals of ours.'
+
+Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things
+straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck
+and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition to
+fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December
+6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two
+days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze
+and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater
+than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the
+effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that
+they were almost constantly wet.
+
+During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed,
+the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress
+was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they
+advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to appear.
+Yet, after the rough weather they had
+[Page 217]
+been having, the calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived
+before it was expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort
+afforded to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the
+human element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise
+in spite of the imminence of delay.'
+
+Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal was
+going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put out the
+fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all the evidence
+of former voyages had been examined so that the best meridian to go
+south on might be chosen, and the conclusion arrived at was that
+the 178 W. was the best. They entered the pack more or less on
+this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting worse conditions than
+any ship had ever experienced--worse, indeed, than Scott imagined
+to be possible on any meridian which they might have chosen. But
+as very little was known about the movements of the pack the
+difficulties of making a choice may very easily be imagined, and,
+in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that the 178 W. was
+the best meridian did not change. 'The situation of the main bodies
+of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with which the floes are
+packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing winds. One cannot
+tell what winds have prevailed before one's arrival; therefore one
+cannot know much about the situation or density. Within limits the
+density is changing from day to day and even from hour to hour; such
+changes depend on the wind, but it may not necessarily be a local
+[Page 218]
+wind, so that at times they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes
+pressing closely against one another at a given time, and an hour
+or two afterwards a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each.
+When the floes are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes
+impossible to force a way through, but when there is release of
+pressure the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag
+path.'
+
+During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at
+10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and
+got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything
+as good as this life. The novelty, interest, colour, animal life,
+and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at
+present,' one of the company wrote on that same day--an abundant
+proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with
+them.
+
+With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to progress--on
+the Monday--with much bumping and occasional stoppages, but on
+the following day they were again firmly and tightly wedged in
+the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty of the experience
+prevented any sense of impatience, though to Scott the strain of
+waiting and wondering what he ought to do as regards the question
+of coal was bound to be heavy.
+
+This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours
+of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of the
+fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations were
+also constantly
+[Page 219]
+taken, while Wilson painted some delightful pictures and Ponting
+took a number of beautiful photographs of the pack and bergs. But
+as day followed day and hopes of progress were not realized, Scott,
+anxious to be free, decided on Monday, December 19, to push west.
+'Anything to get out of these terribly heavy floes. Great patience
+is the only panacea for our ill case. It is bad luck.'
+
+Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be
+reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around them.
+And what to do under the circumstances called for most difficult
+decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead loss of two
+tons of coal when the boilers were again heated. But these two
+tons only covered a day under banked fires, so that for anything
+longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving to put out the fires.
+Thus at each stoppage Scott was called upon to decide how long it
+was likely to last.
+
+Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but
+although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry
+evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the table
+and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute two songs
+to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising circumstance,'
+Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should be so keen
+on singing.'
+
+Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect
+of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being
+that everyone was
+[Page 220]
+prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite regardless of the
+results of his labours. But on Wednesday, December 28, the ponies,
+despite the unremitting care and attention that Oates gave to them,
+were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These animals are now the great
+consideration, balanced as they are against the coal expenditure.'
+
+By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many of
+the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared to
+be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott decided
+to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once more in the
+open sea.
+
+From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during
+this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one
+tons[1] of coal had been used, an average of six miles to the ton,
+and although these were not pleasant figures to contemplate, Scott
+considered that under the exceptional conditions they might easily
+have been worse. For the ship herself he had nothing but praise to
+give. 'No other ship, not even the _Discovery_, would have come
+through so well.... As a result I have grown strangely attached
+to the _Terra Nova_. As she bumped the floes with mighty shocks,
+crushing and grinding her way through some, twisting and turning
+to avoid others, she seemed like a living thing fighting a great
+fight. If only she had more economical engines she would be suitable
+in all respects.'
+
+[Footnote 1: When the _Terra Nova_ left Lyttelton she had 460 tons
+of coal on board.]
+
+[Page 221]
+Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many
+of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their own
+specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those who
+had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find any
+kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to help
+everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has been heard
+on board. The inner life of our small community is very pleasant
+to think upon, and very wonderful considering the extremely small
+space in which we are confined. The attitude of the men is equally
+worthy of admiration. In the forecastle as in the wardroom there is
+a rush to be first when work is to be done, and the same desire to
+sacrifice selfish consideration to the success of the expedition.
+It is very good to be able to write in such high praise of one's
+companions, and I feel that the possession of such support ought
+to ensure success. Fortune would be in a hard mood indeed if it
+allowed such a combination of knowledge, experience, ability, and
+enthusiasm to achieve nothing.'
+
+Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their
+favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern blizzard
+met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind and sea
+increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at 6 A.M. ice
+was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe course would
+have been to go about and stand to the east, but on this occasion
+[Page 222]
+Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble if he could get the
+ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed a stream of ice over
+which the sea was breaking heavily, and the danger of being among
+loose floes in such a sea was acutely realized. But presently they
+came to a more compact body of floes, and running behind this they
+were agreeably surprised to find themselves in comparatively smooth
+water. There they lay to in a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous
+position had achieved one that was safe as long as their temporary
+shelter lasted.
+
+As the day passed their protection, though still saving them from
+the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean to
+depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At
+10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but
+splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in
+sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter
+from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark
+as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it.
+I believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty
+miles farther--such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.'
+
+The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress
+was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached
+the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage
+they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station
+at this Cape, and the prospect had
+[Page 223]
+seemed to become increasingly fascinating the more they talked of it.
+
+But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the whale
+boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor, Priestley,
+and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore, they discovered
+that the swell made it impossible for them to land.
+
+'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied
+us.'
+
+On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting
+and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of
+development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant, but
+fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of this
+incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out of the
+question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me, for there,
+about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the old bay ice
+about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin chick was standing
+disconsolately stranded, and close by stood one faithful old Emperor
+parent asleep. This young Emperor was still in the down, a most
+interesting fact in the bird's life history at which we had rightly
+guessed, but which no one had actually observed before.... This
+bird would have been a treasure to me, but we could not risk life
+for it, so it had to remain where it was.'
+
+Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their
+station at Cape Crozier, and this
+[Page 224]
+was all the harder to bear because every detail of the shore promised
+well for a wintering party. There were comfortable quarters for the
+hut, ice for water snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing,
+proximity to the Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins,
+good ground for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the
+Southern Road with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It
+is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a spot.'
+
+The _Discovery's_ post-office was still standing as erect as when
+it had been planted, and comparisons between what was before their
+eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed to
+have occurred anywhere--a result that in the case of the Barrier
+caused very great surprise.
+
+In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey,
+the program of which was:
+
+  Bruce continually checking speed with hand log.
+
+  Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.
+  Nelson noting results.
+
+  Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.
+  Cherry-Garrard noting results.
+
+  Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.
+  Atkinson noting results.
+
+  Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.
+  Wright noting results.
+
+  Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.
+  Drake noting results.
+
+[Page 225]
+'We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to
+the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed
+since _Discovery_ days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in
+the same place.'
+
+Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came
+in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was
+good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this
+side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such a
+familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place for
+winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the Barrier,
+and a cape, which in the _Discovery_ days had been called 'the
+Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old _Discovery_ quarters
+by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue, and I thought
+that these bays would remain frozen until late in the season, and
+that when they froze over again the ice would soon become firm.'
+
+There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw,
+as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering
+station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest
+and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most
+favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which
+was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication
+being established at an early date with Cape Armitage.[1] Not a
+moment was wasted, and while Scott was
+[Page 226]
+on shore Campbell took the first steps towards landing the stores.
+
+[Footnote 1: The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further,
+on one of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the _Discovery_
+hut.]
+
+Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the landing
+began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors were soon
+hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and the tons of
+sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories
+appeared to be in perfect condition. Then came the turn of the
+ponies, and although it was difficult to make some of them enter
+the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion and got most of them in
+by persuasion, while the ones which refused to be persuaded were
+simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all are thin and some
+few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the evident
+vitality which they still possessed--some were even skittish. I
+cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely
+picketed on the floe.'
+
+Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning, and
+ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The chief
+trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins,
+the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the proceedings and
+a total disregard for their own safety, with the result that a
+number of them were killed in spite of innumerable efforts to teach
+the penguins to keep out of reach, they only squawked and ducked
+as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass?
+Let us alone.' These incidents naturally demoralized the dogs and
+annoyed Meares, who
+[Page 227]
+while trying to stop one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs
+and was carried along until they reached the penguins of their
+desire.
+
+The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing one
+and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success, but
+they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the site
+for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped on
+shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days. Nearly
+all the timber, &c., for the hut and a supply of food for both
+ponies and dogs had also been landed.
+
+Despite this most strenuous day's labour, all hands were up again
+at 5 A.M. on Thursday.
+
+'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works
+and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the
+scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary
+scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting
+the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived
+rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly
+appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard
+weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious
+danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern
+rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this.
+I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales with
+this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting, who was
+standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and ran
+[Page 228]
+towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts, which
+had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole floe under
+him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. One could hear
+the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the ice and struck
+it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the ice, setting
+it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and was able
+to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance also, the splits
+had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of them
+fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared our
+astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads shot
+vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made...
+There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see what had happened
+to Ponting and the dogs....
+
+'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually skirt
+the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up anyone
+who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts
+that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were
+able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2 feet), and
+that they could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear
+that they are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future
+we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.'
+
+On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they
+might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble
+had been taken to obtain
+[Page 229]
+the most suitable material for Polar work, and the three motor
+sledge tractors were the outcome of experiments made at Lantaret in
+France and at Lillehammer and Fefor in Norway, with sledges built
+by the Wolseley Motor Company from suggestions offered principally
+by B. T. Hamilton, R. W. Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted
+objection to cruelty in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and
+almost pathetic, desire that these sledges should be successful;
+over and over again he expressed his hopes and fears of them.
+
+With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard,
+the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the
+only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the
+cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the
+necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday the
+third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott, leaving
+Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started for the
+shore with a single man load.
+
+Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that
+it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the
+ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the
+machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through; and
+while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was seen to
+give, and slowly the machine went right through and disappeared.
+The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the rope, but it
+cut through the ice towards them with an increasing strain,
+[Page 230]
+and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half a minute
+later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the two best
+motors was lying at the bottom of the sea.
+
+The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was clear
+that those who were on shore were practically cut off from the
+ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to the
+north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near
+ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to
+Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way along
+the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen.
+
+A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again the
+work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In this
+Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single case
+he did not know nor a single article on which he could not at once
+place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was checked
+by him.
+
+On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound,
+the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of
+Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on
+board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last
+we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We
+are LANDED eight days after our arrival--a very good record.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 231]
+CHAPTER II
+
+DEPÔT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP
+
+  And the deed of high endeavour
+    Was no more to the favoured few.
+  But brain and heart were the measure
+    Of what every man might do.
+      RENNELL RODD.
+
+While the landing was being carried out, the building party had
+worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could
+have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small
+party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to
+serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the
+cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable
+quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and
+Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut.
+
+In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott
+could begin to think about the depôt journey. The arrangements
+of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation
+he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once,
+and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.'
+
+Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal:
+[Page 232]
+'He (Scott) wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie
+Evans, and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice
+of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men.
+It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it
+is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead
+of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate....
+About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so
+many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my
+own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice
+towards the end and a most keen competition--_and_ a universal
+lack of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete absence of
+any jealous feeling in any single one of any of the comparatively
+large number who at present stand a chance of being on the last piece
+next summer.... I have never been thrown in with a more unselfish
+lot of men--each one doing his utmost fair and square in the most
+cheery manner possible.'
+
+Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10
+A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott
+read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but
+unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not
+fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the two
+allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior animals. At
+this time the party to be led by Campbell was known as the Eastern
+Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing on King
+[Page 233]
+Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north part of
+Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern Party.
+Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is evident, but
+in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it like the gentleman
+he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.'
+
+On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine
+dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started
+to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old _Discovery_ hut, a
+most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin they
+found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the hut for
+shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state.
+
+'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such
+a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old
+comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I
+went to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression
+of civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this
+should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and
+finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate
+predecessors oppressed me horribly.'
+
+After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found
+much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely
+cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost
+bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and
+on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare
+[Page 234]
+tableland. The paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible
+on the cross put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if
+it had just been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down
+it could with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in
+the afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans,
+and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut.
+
+'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is
+really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest
+that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and
+roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation on
+both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings weighs
+six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore and the
+result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst the total
+weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the time and attention
+given to its planning.
+
+'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain spare
+clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a solid stable
+to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present these animals
+are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow close by, above
+them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the dogs extend in other
+long lines. Behind them again is a most convenient slab of hard
+ice in which we have dug two caverns. The first is a larder now
+fully stocked with seals, penguins, mutton, and beef. The other
+is devoted to science in the shape of differential magnetic
+[Page 235]
+instruments which will keep a constant photographic record of magnetic
+changes. Outside these caverns is another little hut for absolute
+magnetic observations, and above them on a small hill, the dominant
+miniature peak of the immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological
+instruments and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack.
+
+'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill on
+a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases
+ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the ice-foot
+below, you will have some idea of our immediate vicinity. As for
+our wider surroundings it would be difficult to describe their
+beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape Evans is one of the
+many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands closest under the
+mountain, so that always towering above us we have the grand snowy
+peak with its smoking summit. North and south of us are deep bays,
+beyond which great glaciers come rippling over the lower slopes
+to thrust high blue-walled snouts into the sea. The sea is blue
+before us, dotted with shining bergs or ice floes, whilst far over
+the Sound, yet so bold and magnificent as to appear near, stand
+the beautiful Western Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks,
+their deep glacial valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain
+scenery that can have few rivals.
+
+'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the
+most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and most
+of the night
+[Page 236]
+in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera and cinematograph.
+
+'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of
+its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity
+of the mansion.
+
+'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9)
+the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of cases
+containing things which suffer from being frozen.
+
+'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and next it
+on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his instruments, and
+on the other a space devoted to charts, chronometers and instruments
+generally.
+
+'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans
+have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five
+beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and
+Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space
+opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a
+bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space
+set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a 12-foot
+table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs....
+
+'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely
+comfortable and conveniently placed for his work--in fact we could
+not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will have a small
+enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home. We shall be
+away sledding late this year and off again
+[Page 237]
+early next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that
+such comfort awaits our return.'
+
+So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound
+they had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon
+their depôt journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly
+from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however,
+required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect
+of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated
+a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding
+gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers,
+sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the
+stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality. 'Our
+clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running through
+the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride that there
+is not a single arrangement which I would have had altered....
+Everything looks hopeful for the depôt journey if only we can get
+our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a serious
+suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report that the
+_Terra Nova_ was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape, saw at
+once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable position.
+
+Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in
+his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of
+him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete
+disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one
+[Page 238]
+consolation in determining that, whatever happened, nothing should
+interfere with the southern work.
+
+The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of
+the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she
+struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously
+from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no
+ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly,
+and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that
+an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling
+produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again
+to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had
+been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent,
+but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was
+getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she gathered
+stern way and was clear.
+
+'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and
+she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I hope
+the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here and now
+I must record the splendid manner in which these men are working.
+I find it difficult to express my admiration for the manner in
+which the ship is handled and worked under these very trying
+circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me about it to-night;
+I think I like him more every day.'
+
+On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and
+satisfied themselves that the ice
+[Page 239]
+was good; and with the 25th fixed for the date of departure it was
+not too much to hope that the ice would remain for three or four
+more days. The ponies for Campbell's party were put on board on
+the 22nd, but when Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning
+he saw, to his astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay
+in a solid mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and
+a wonderful day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges
+and equipment were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed;
+in short everything to do with the depôt party was hurriedly put
+on board except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and try
+to get over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th.
+
+The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication between
+the new station at Cape Evans and the _Discovery_ hut, for the
+rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island prevented
+a passage by land. The Road provided level going below the cliffs
+of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending glacier;
+and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier itself.
+It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays and the sea-ice
+along the coast, which only stayed fast for the season. Thus it
+was most important to get safely over the dangerous part of this
+Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To wait until
+after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut Point would
+have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well enough that
+the Road might not hold for many more hours,
+[Page 240]
+and it actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed.
+
+Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott
+and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led
+out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test the
+track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to inspect
+Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities of
+sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c. &c.; but
+the _pièce de résistance_ was the capture of several bucketsful
+of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been previously
+caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it alone repays
+the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the ship skirted the Island,
+and with a telescope those on board could watch the string of ponies
+steadily progressing over the sea-ice past the Razor Back Islands;
+and, as soon as they were seen to be well advanced, the ship steamed
+on to the Glacier Tongue, and made fast in the narrow angle made
+by the sea-ice with the glacier.
+
+Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on
+the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without
+much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier,
+and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But when
+Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30 feet
+across, it was evident that they must get past it on the glacier,
+and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks.
+
+[Page 241]
+Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to start
+again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their loads having
+already been taken on the floe. At first all went well, but when
+the animals got down on the floe level and Oates led across an
+old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at the edge and
+sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it sank deeper and
+deeper until only its head and forelegs showed above the slush.
+With some trouble ropes were attached to these, and the poor animal,
+looking very weak and miserable, was eventually pulled out.
+
+After this experience the other five ponies were led farther round
+to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small feed was
+given to them, and then they were started off with their loads.
+
+The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting
+on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed to
+security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott, writing
+from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All have arrived
+safely, and this evening we start our sledges south. I expect we
+shall have to make three relays to get all our stores on to the
+Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land a geologising
+party on the west side of the Sound, and then to proceed to King
+Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.'
+
+The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham, Wright,
+and P.O. Evans, and for reasons
+[Page 242]
+already mentioned the Eastern party were eventually known as the
+Northern party.
+
+On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier
+and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one team
+of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on the
+following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the men
+had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work.
+
+'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never
+sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all
+these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily
+trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed
+their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward.
+God bless them.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's
+party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story
+of their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of
+Campbell, Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and
+the courage shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless
+difficulties and privations has met with the unstinted admiration
+that it most thoroughly deserved.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+For the depôt laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12 men
+(Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans, Gran,
+Meares, Forde,
+[Page 243]
+Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs. Of the dogs
+he felt at this time more than a little doubtful, but the ponies
+were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They work with such
+extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and cheerfully,
+following in each other's tracks. The great drawback is the ease
+with which they sink in soft snow: they go through in lots of places
+where the men scarcely make an impression--they struggle pluckily
+when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.'
+
+In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to
+complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained
+to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labour of this day
+tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the next
+day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs of
+breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the situation.
+In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they got into
+better condition, began to do excellent work. During Sunday they
+ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the Barrier to
+the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depôt. 'I don't
+think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but it's just
+as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp must deserve
+its distinctive title of "Safety."'
+
+By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely
+handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable
+account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of
+[Page 244]
+trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs....
+Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble
+of that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole a
+few yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him before
+one can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the whip--and
+everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness of the dog
+next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that takes much
+patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the whole team should
+get away with the sledge and its load, and leave one behind....
+I never did get left the whole of this depôt journey, but I was
+often very near it, and several times had only time to seize a
+strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged along helter-skelter
+over everything that came in the way, till the team got sick of
+galloping and one could struggle to one's feet again. One gets
+very wary and wide-awake when one has to manage a team of eleven
+dogs and a sledge load by oneself, but it was a most interesting
+experience, and I had a delightful leader, "Stareek" by name--Russian
+for "Old Man," and he was the most wise old man.... Dog driving
+like this in the orthodox manner is a very different thing from
+the beastly dog driving we perpetrated in the _Discovery_ days....
+I got to love all my team and they got to know me well.... Stareek
+is quite a ridiculous "old man" and quite the nicest, quietest,
+cleverest old dog I have ever come across. He looks in face as
+if he knew all the wickedness of all the world
+[Page 245]
+and all its cares, and as if he were bored to death by them.'
+
+When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until they
+started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we must
+travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous than
+successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great difficulty
+in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott disclosed
+his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with five weeks'
+food for men and animals, then to depôt a fortnight's supply after
+twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp. The loads for
+ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little over 600 lbs.,
+and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from sledges. Whether
+the ponies could manage these loads depended on the surface, and there
+was a great possibility that the dogs would have to be lightened,
+but under the circumstances it was the best plan they could hope
+to carry out.
+
+On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair
+of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect. In
+places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he strolled
+round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately after this
+experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made to get more
+snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson had started,
+on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to the station
+twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned with the news
+that there was no
+[Page 246]
+possibility of reaching Cape Evans, and an additional stroke of
+bad fortune fell when Atkinson's foot, which had been troublesome
+for some time, was examined and found to be so bad that he had
+to be left behind with Crean as a companion.
+
+Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,'
+Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter
+station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the
+Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with
+all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we
+find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent
+a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies,
+but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned
+this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right
+sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year
+is a help for next.'
+
+[Illustration: PONY CAMP ON THE BARRIER. _Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott._]
+
+At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after
+marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes,
+he found that they had been left behind, and Gran--whose expertness
+on ski was most useful--immediately volunteered to go back and get
+them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's suggestion
+they had decided to take to night marching. And so at 12.30 A.M.
+they started off once more on a surface that was bad at first but
+gradually improved, until just before camping time Bowers, who was
+leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several of the others,
+following close behind
+[Page 247]
+him, shared the same fate, and soon three ponies were plunging
+and struggling in a drift, and had to be unharnessed and led round
+from patch to patch until firmer ground was reached.
+
+Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put on
+Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he settled
+down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only that but
+also another over places into which he had previously been plunging.
+Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great help to their
+work had been left behind at the station, and it was all the more
+trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed in the snow, and
+panting and heaving from the strain, when the remedies for his
+state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible to reach.
+
+During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies, on
+a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of bad
+weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on Saturday
+a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp for three
+days. 'No fun to be out of the tent--but there are no shirkers with
+us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the ponies; Meares and
+Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us as occasion required.'
+
+The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but when
+it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the effects
+of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished the march
+listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner.
+[Page 248]
+But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load
+was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and led
+his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would soon
+improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to be kept
+alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the journey would
+have to be curtailed.
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be stronger.
+'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott wrote on
+Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for the day an
+account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of our sleeping-bags
+about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout to the Soldier[1] "How
+are things?" There is a response suggesting readiness, and soon
+after figures are busy amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling
+work for the fingers and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come
+off the animals, the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment
+are loaded on the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one
+by one the animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to
+the sledge. Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep
+such a nervous creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt
+one feels impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy
+fellows. Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and
+ends.
+
+[Footnote 1: Oates.]
+
+'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few
+pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking their
+tent. With numbed fingers on
+[Page 249]
+our horse's bridle and the animal striving to turn its head from
+the wind one feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says "All
+right, Bowers, go ahead," and Birdie leads his big animal forward,
+starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got
+cold and at the word they are off, the Soldier's and one or two
+others with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery
+sastrugi,[1] and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty
+in maintaining the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and
+in ten minutes the column has settled itself to steady marching.
+
+[Footnote 1: Irregularities formed by the wind on a snow-plain.]
+
+'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or
+another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone.
+These are the only real incidents of the march--for the rest it
+passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. The
+weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon up in
+line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a single
+halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop long
+and a very few minutes found us on the go again.
+
+'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle.
+Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent
+mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket
+lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two other
+sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we are
+drawn up in camp formation. The picket
+[Page 250]
+lines are run across at right angles to the line of advance and
+secured to the two sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies
+are on the lines covered, tents up again and cookers going.
+
+'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp,
+have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks.
+They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after
+our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into
+an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp
+forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and
+within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags....
+At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow
+walls and improving their rugs, &c.
+
+A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult,
+and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed
+signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday
+morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had
+to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to
+play an important part in the future. By this time three of the
+ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott
+decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them.
+
+Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard, and
+Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by Bowers'
+imperviousness to
+[Page 251]
+cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful. Throughout the night he
+has worn no head-gear but a common green felt hat kept on with a
+chin-stay and affording no cover whatever for the ears. His face
+and ears remain bright red. The rest of us were glad to have thick
+Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have never seen anyone so unaffected
+by the cold. To-night he remained outside a full hour after the
+rest of us had got into the tent. He was simply pottering about
+the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, &c. Cherry-Garrard is
+remarkable because of his eyes. He can only see through glasses
+and has to wrestle with all sorts of inconveniences in consequence.
+Yet one could never guess it--for he manages somehow to do more
+than his share of the work.'
+
+Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so
+bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and the
+soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps and
+made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they struggled
+on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace, and when they
+were three-quarters of a mile behind the others the dog teams (which
+always left the camp after the others) overtook them. Then the dogs
+got out of hand and attacked Weary Willy, who put up a sterling
+fight but was bitten rather badly before Meares and Gran could
+drive off the dogs. Afterwards it was discovered that Weary Willy's
+load was much heavier than that of the other ponies, and an attempt
+to continue the march had quickly
+[Page 252]
+to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some compensation
+for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large snow wall, and
+some extra sacking, and on the following day he showed appreciation
+of these favors by a marked improvement. Bowers' pony, however,
+refused work for the first time, and Oates was more despondent
+than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to see that this is a
+characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays every attention to
+the weaker horses.'
+
+No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers'
+pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn
+back on the following day. During the last march out the temperature
+fell to -21° with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were
+frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely,
+but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to
+feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing
+such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will
+find spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the
+point of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which
+gives him much trouble--this is the worse prospect for summit work.
+I have been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, this cold
+spell gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but one must be
+prepared for a pretty good doing.'
+
+The depôt was built during the next day, February 17, Lat. 79° 29'
+S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed.
+
+[Page 253]
+Stores left in depôt:
+
+   lbs.
+   245   7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit
+    12   2 days' provision bags for 1 unit
+     8   8 weeks' tea
+    31   6 weeks' extra butter
+   176   lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit)
+    85   8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit)
+   850   5 sacks of oats
+   424   4 bales of fodder
+   250   Tank of dog biscuit
+   100   2 cases of biscuit
+  ----
+  2181
+
+         1  skein white line
+         1  set breast harness
+         2  12 ft. sledges
+         2  pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks
+         1  _Minimum Thermometer_[1]
+         1  tin Rowntree cocoa
+         1  tin matches
+
+[Footnote 1: See page 337.]
+
+Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80°, he was satisfied that they
+had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed the
+ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff
+and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes
+to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the
+sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The depôt cairn
+was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party had
+the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to show
+up for many miles.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 254]
+CHAPTER III
+
+PERILS
+
+                ...Yet I argue not
+  Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot
+  Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer
+  Right onward.
+    MILTON.
+
+On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard
+went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates
+and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent marches
+were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as Scott was
+to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened to the
+other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied with the
+daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came in their
+rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a most
+serious disaster.
+
+The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday
+night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could
+be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an
+hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined
+[Page 255]
+pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the teams
+were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams driven by
+Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,' Cherry-Garrard
+says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after another, like
+dogs going down a hole after a rat.'
+
+In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished
+from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader,
+put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold.
+The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and
+Meares jumped aside.
+
+In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually been
+traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped
+on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss. 'Why the
+sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall never know.
+I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must have taken us
+down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear of the bridge
+and anchored, they peered into the depths of the cracks. The dogs,
+suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions, were howling dismally
+and almost frantic with terror. Two of them had dropped out of
+their harness and, far below, could be seen indistinctly on a
+snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the chain had bitten deep
+into the snow at the side of the crevasse and with the weight below
+could not possibly be moved.
+
+By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and Cherry-Garrard,
+the latter hurriedly
+[Page 256]
+bringing the Alpine rope, the exact position of which on the sledge
+he most fortunately knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the
+team was not by any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt
+failed. In spite of their determined efforts they could get not
+an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope,
+which with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the
+snow.
+
+Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a definite
+plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent, cooker, and
+sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then Scott, seizing
+the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the tent-poles across
+the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get a few inches on the
+leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness was immediately cut.
+The next step was to secure the leading rope to the main trace and
+haul up together. By this means one dog was rescued and unlashed,
+but the rope already had cut so far back at the edge that efforts
+to get more of it were useless.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWED-UP TENT AFTER THREE DAYS' BLIZZARD. _Photo
+by Lieut. T. Gran._]
+
+'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should
+have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap
+and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and
+pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored trace
+while the others worked at the leader end. The leading rope, however,
+was so very small that Scott was afraid of its breaking, and Meares
+was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of
+[Page 257]
+the trace; when this had been done the chance of rescuing the dogs
+at once began to improve.
+
+Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen
+were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other
+dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see
+if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled.
+The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the
+depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and
+insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm,
+and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the
+surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose
+above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to
+stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams.
+
+'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three
+of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end.
+That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he
+never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them.
+When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring,
+but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this is
+running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."'
+
+For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it
+was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated
+themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott
+and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed
+[Page 258]
+outright, but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful
+signs of recovery after their terrible experience.
+
+On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were
+as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed a
+very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is certain,
+the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with men sitting
+on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the teams and the
+Russian custom must be dropped.'
+
+At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to Scott's
+great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return journey. Forde
+had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher, and although the
+greatest care had also been given to Blossom, both of them were
+left on the Southern Road. The remaining one of the three, James
+Pigg, had managed not only to survive but actually to thrive, and,
+severe as the loss of the two ponies was, some small consolation
+could be gained from the fact that they were the oldest of the
+team, and the two which Oates considered to be the least useful.
+
+After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard and
+Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished to
+find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable, no
+one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag containing
+a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But presently what
+turned out to be the true
+[Page 259]
+solution of this curious state of affairs was guessed, namely, that
+Atkinson and Crean had been on their way from the hut to Safety
+Camp as the others had come from the camp to the hut, and later
+on Scott saw their sledge track leading round on the sea-ice.
+
+Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened
+to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round Cape
+Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety Camp,
+but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred yards
+of their destination that they saw three tents instead of two,
+and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner, however,
+had Scott received his letters than his feelings of relief were
+succeeded by sheer astonishment.
+
+'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents
+of the mail bag which Atkinson gave me--a letter from Campbell
+setting out his doings and the finding of _Amundsen_ established
+in the Bay of Whales.
+
+'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, as
+well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though
+this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the honour
+of the country without fear or panic.
+
+'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace
+to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles--I never
+thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to the ice. His
+[Page 260]
+plan for running them seems excellent. But above and beyond all he
+can start his journey early in the season--an impossible condition
+with ponies.'
+
+The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had, after
+landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point, proceeded along
+the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across Amundsen camped in
+the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however, for Campbell's party
+could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was a great disappointment
+to us all, but there was nothing for it but to return to McMurdo
+Sound to communicate with the main party, and then try to effect a
+landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet or as far to the westward
+as possible on the north coast of Victoria Land, and if possible
+to explore the unknown coast west of Cape North. We therefore made
+the best of our way to Cape Evans, and arrived on the evening of
+the 8th. Here I decided to land the two ponies, as they would be
+very little use to us on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land,
+and in view of the Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party
+would require all the transport available. After landing the ponies
+we steamed up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there,
+taking Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point,
+where the depôt party would call on their way back.'
+
+Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news which
+was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he refused
+to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans.
+
+[Page 261]
+Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and
+Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and
+Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and
+Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James Pigg,
+started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out and saw
+a short black line on the horizon towards White Island. Presently
+he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions, but they
+were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp; so when the
+latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers, but was glad to
+see five pony walls and consequently to know that all the animals
+were still alive.
+
+Having depôted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard
+and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James Pigg
+by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in the
+tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday did
+Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were without
+exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially in
+a pitiable condition.
+
+As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp, arrangements
+were made immediately for a general shift to Hut Point, and about
+four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson and Meares got
+safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to start, the plan
+being for them to follow in the tracks of the dogs; the route was
+over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing to the spread of
+water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious.
+
+[Page 262]
+At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight
+was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on
+with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott,
+with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the sick
+pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy died
+during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start _necessary for
+next year_,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1, but
+on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of the
+past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only one
+comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.'
+
+Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates
+and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage depôt, which was
+at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge, in a S.S.E.
+direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky looked black
+and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes loomed out
+ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the strange
+optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew close
+to the depôt all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full of broken
+pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew to the ponies
+and dogs.
+
+They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a
+working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in
+line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first
+thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling
+[Page 263]
+back from Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran
+went to the depôt with a note as Oates and I disconsolately thought
+out the situation. I thought to myself that if either party had
+reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would
+immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By this
+time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour passed,
+and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that two specks
+in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.'
+
+When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered them
+to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him, because
+they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary Willy had
+upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming reports
+that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice.
+
+The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs began
+very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left Safety Camp
+with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge of the Barrier,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs were on ahead and we
+saw them turn and make right round Cape Armitage. "Uncle Bill"
+got done, and I took up the dog tracks which we followed over the
+tide crack and well on towards Cape Armitage.
+
+'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after fresh
+crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching through
+for many feet on both
+[Page 264]
+sides. We all thought it impossible to proceed and turned back....
+The ponies began to get very done, and Bowers decided to get back
+over the tide crack, find a snowy place, and camp.
+
+'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed
+to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have been
+with the ponies.
+
+'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers
+cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a long
+time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt very bad
+for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all his. Otherwise
+we had a good meal.
+
+'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside
+down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers went
+out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened by a grinding
+sound, jumped up, and found the situation as follows:--
+
+'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to
+thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think
+about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe, and
+"Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to us all
+and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks. We packed
+anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker. It seemed
+to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said so, but Bowers
+decided to try.
+
+'We decided that to go towards White Island
+[Page 265]
+looked best, and for five hours traveled in the following way:--we
+jumped the ponies over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then
+man-hauled the sledges after them, then according to the size of the
+floe sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled
+the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I should
+think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.'
+
+At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the
+Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get
+up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere
+off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to try
+and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and leaping
+from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with the help of
+his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It was a desperate
+venture, but luckily successful.'
+
+And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing
+the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen
+rapidly making for the depôt from the west.
+
+As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the situation
+he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares, and started
+with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of the mishap. A
+halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions and oil, and
+then, marching carefully round, they approached the ice-edge, and to
+their joy caught sight of Bowers and Cherry-Garrard. With the help
+[Page 266]
+of the Alpine rope both the men were dragged to the surface, and
+after camp had been pitched at a safe distance from the edge all
+hands started upon salvage work. The ice at this time lay close and
+quiet against the Barrier edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and
+Cherry-Garrard had been hauled up, the sledges and their contents
+were safely on the Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were
+saved, the ice began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing
+could be done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon
+their floes.
+
+'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were
+dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30
+yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast
+we discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor
+their floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It
+was a sad moment.'
+
+Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced
+that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed
+and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the
+poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life. Then
+there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge and
+discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable way to
+land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, tried to
+leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually we had to
+kill him--it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed out my
+[Page 267]
+road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and worked
+their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with them on
+the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought we should
+get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump and plunged into
+the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice-- killer whales
+all about us in an intense state of excitement. The poor animal
+couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to kill it. These
+incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday, March 2), we
+sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to the one I had
+just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our sad journey to
+Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss of our ponies,
+but mercifully with all the party alive and well.'
+
+At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only
+three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this
+physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E. Evans
+and his party were safe; but while they were camping that night
+on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well, came
+in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut Point
+in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran, who were
+looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in trying to
+make two sleeping-bags do the work of three.
+
+On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing
+and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep in the
+bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were cut off from
+[Page 268]
+any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze over,
+and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up a
+small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire
+for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not
+much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also
+with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his
+sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party
+to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing
+in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we
+couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work. There
+were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in _Discovery_
+days, and with these we built up a small inner hut to live in.'
+
+On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on
+Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have
+all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James
+Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on the
+depôt journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition there was
+reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had not happened.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 269]
+CHAPTER IV
+
+A HAPPY FAMILY
+
+  By mutual confidence and mutual aid
+  Great deeds are done and great discoveries made.
+    ANON.
+
+With the certainty of having to stay in the _Discovery_ hut for
+some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable
+as possible. With packing-cases a large _L_-shaped inner apartment
+was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty kerosene
+tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent little stove
+which was connected to the old stove-pipe.
+
+As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available,
+and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and Wilson
+found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out and was
+crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party as much
+meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary for our
+comfort and only need a little more experience to make the best of
+our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which everyone
+is learning the ropes, and the resource which
+[Page 270]
+is being shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful
+suggestions and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower
+of strength in checking the ill-usage of clothes--what I have come
+to regard as the greatest danger with Englishmen.'
+
+On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased in
+force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which drove
+the _Discovery_ ashore. The blizzard continued until noon on Tuesday,
+on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith Taylor, Wright,
+Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut after a successful
+trip.
+
+Two days later another depôt party started to Corner Camp, E. Evans,
+Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard
+and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting of Wright to join
+in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.'
+
+During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were constantly
+being increased, but continuous bad weather was both depressing
+to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort had been
+made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of wind made
+it impossible to give them shelter in all directions. At least
+five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen others were
+by no means strong, but whether because they were constitutionally
+harder or whether better fitted by nature to protect themselves
+the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit as they could be.
+As it was found to be impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in
+the traces, the majority
+[Page 271]
+of them were allowed to run loose; for although Scott feared that
+this freedom would mean that there would be some fights to the
+death, he thought it preferable to the risk of losing the animals
+by keeping them on the leash. The main difficulty with them was
+that when the ice once got thoroughly into the coats their hind
+legs became half paralyzed with cold, but by allowing them to run
+loose it was hoped that they would be able to free themselves of
+this serious trouble. 'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind
+to us. This month will have sad memories. Still I suppose things
+might be worse; the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly
+well....'
+
+The depôt party returned to the hut on March 23, but though the
+sea by this time showed symptoms of _wanting_ to freeze, there was
+no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day. Stock
+therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements were made
+for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A week later the
+ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of Hut Point, but
+the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island still refused to
+freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began to think that they might
+not be able to get back to Cape Evans before May. Soon afterwards,
+however, the sea began to freeze over completely, and on Thursday
+evening, April 6, a program, subject to the continuance of good
+weather, was arranged for a shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels good,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to have something doing in the air.' But
+the weather prevented them from starting on the appointed day,
+[Page 272]
+and although Scott was most anxious to get back and see that all was
+well at Cape Evans, the comfort achieved in the old hut was so great
+that he confessed himself half-sorry to leave it.
+
+Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around the
+fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter and
+a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. After
+lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt a long
+stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter.
+
+'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again
+with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival
+one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver....
+Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night--or nearly
+every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has proved a
+genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his reputation.
+He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber, suggesting that
+the latter could be freed from all rankness.... The "fry" proved
+redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that peculiar flavour
+which faintly lingers in the meat and should not be emphasized.
+Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the rest of us decided
+to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after tasting the first
+mouthful.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: Wilson, referring to this incident in his Journal,
+showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over a fry I made in my new
+penguin lard. It was quite a success and tasted like very bad sardine
+oil.']
+
+'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking
+[Page 273]
+and conversation--a cheering, pleasant hour--in which reminiscences
+are exchanged by a company which has very literally had world-wide
+experience. There is scarce a country under the sun which one or
+another of us has not traveled in, so diverse are our origins and
+occupations.
+
+'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone
+can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a
+few would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which
+goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly
+healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke,
+appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.'
+
+On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the
+party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one
+tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another; Wilson
+being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde, Keohane,
+Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard.
+
+In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became
+evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending,
+and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs. Seven
+and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks, a very
+icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light became
+bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time. Half an
+hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to the ice
+cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock
+[Page 274]
+and Erebus all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear
+track to the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there
+no low place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer
+drop), and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to
+drift off the ridge a quick decision had to be made.
+
+Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to
+work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered.
+Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder
+of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and
+speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without serious
+frost-bites.
+
+The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very
+heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A stiff
+incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was failing
+and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell in with
+considerable risk of damage. The north side, however, was well
+snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice cliff in which
+a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under the circumstances
+Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but darkness suddenly fell
+upon them, and after very heavy pulling for many hours they were
+so totally unable to see anything ahead, that at 10 P.M. they were
+compelled to pitch their camp under little Razor Back Island. During
+the night the wind began to rise, and in the morning a roaring
+blizzard was blowing, and obviously the ice on which they had pitched
+[Page 275]
+their camp was none too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull,
+until at 3 P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result
+that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under
+the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours,
+but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer
+from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied
+down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the
+wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening;
+we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only one
+more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to get than
+on the previous night, because they knew that they were no longer
+in danger of being swept out to sea.
+
+The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning the
+party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen clothes
+were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only two miles,
+and after some very hard pulling they arrived off the point and
+found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It was a very great
+relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well.'
+
+In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility
+of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that no
+heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; secondly,
+that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack which would
+damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well protected by
+the Barne Glacier; and, lastly,
+[Page 276]
+that the beach itself showed no signs of having been swept by the
+sea. When, however, the hut had been erected and he found that its
+foundation was only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice,
+he could not rid himself entirely of misgivings.
+
+As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not
+until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious
+he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been
+in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the
+ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself
+of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal
+swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the
+small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was
+mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen
+by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants
+(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton
+and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute
+the most important events of the quiet station life were told, the
+worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and one dog
+had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked admirably,
+and the scientific routine of observations was in full swing.
+
+After their primitive life at the _Discovery_ hut the interior
+space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort
+luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to enjoy
+the first bath for three months, and have contact with clean, dry
+[Page 277]
+clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom soon banished
+their delight) are the treasured remembrance of every Polar traveler.'
+Not for many hours or even minutes, however, was Scott in the hut
+before he was taken round to see in detail the transformation that
+had taken place in his absence, and in which a very proper pride
+was taken by those who had created it.
+
+First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous
+shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, electric
+batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the tickings of many
+clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally the trembling note
+of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me days and even months
+to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific
+accuracy with which he was achieving them.'
+
+From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection
+into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography had
+never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely without
+them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of negatives and
+prints can only be justified by the quality of the work produced in
+it, and is only justified in our case by such an artist as Ponting.'
+
+From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared,
+to their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing
+note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid
+tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements
+[Page 278]
+of the hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried
+out with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next,
+and Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown
+by Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was
+called in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that
+he was capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases,
+I was less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had
+considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his attention
+to pots and pans.'
+
+The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals,
+and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that
+some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated
+fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the
+ten remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the
+furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective.
+
+Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it
+was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not
+only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been
+built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions,
+in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were
+almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that
+had assailed him on the homeward route.
+
+Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the
+comforts of Cape Evans, as on
+[Page 279]
+Monday, April 17, they were off again to Hut Point with two 10-foot
+sledges, a week's provisions of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal,
+&c., for the hut. Scott, Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first
+sledge; Bowers, Nelson, Crean and Hooper the second; and after a
+rather adventurous journey, in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp
+work as of old,' they reached Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following
+day, and found everyone well and in good spirits. The party left at
+the hut were, however, very short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety,
+because until the sea froze over there was no possibility of getting
+the ponies back to Cape Evans. But three seals were reported on
+the Wednesday and promptly killed, and so Scott, satisfied that
+this stock was enough for twelve days, resolved to go back as soon
+as the weather would allow him.
+
+Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with
+the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson,
+Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the
+homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott,
+Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates,
+Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the leaders,
+and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with the second
+sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean declared
+that although the loads were equal there was a great difference
+in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented when I
+voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party thought it the
+[Page 280]
+plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like proof, and he
+readily assented to change sledges. The difference was really
+extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight compared with
+the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters regardless
+of how much we perspired.'
+
+All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked through,
+and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice fell upon
+the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief and showed
+the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold, however,
+was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish of rice
+and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was at an
+end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses they had
+sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson, Oates, Atkinson
+and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut since it had been
+fitted out, were astonished at its comfort.
+
+On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point,
+the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun.
+Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Hooper,
+Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton, but in
+making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning that those
+who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead them in the
+spring.
+
+Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally busy
+unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators. Wright
+began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates started to
+make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard employed himself
+[Page 281]
+in building a stone house for taxidermy and with a view to getting
+hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during the winter, while Taylor
+and Debenham took advantage of the last of the light to examine
+the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans surveyed the Cape and
+its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in addition to their
+other work, spent hours over balloon experiments. In fact everyone
+was overflowing with energy.
+
+On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back
+from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for
+good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice;
+and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of
+every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously,
+however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that could
+not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter steadily
+progressed.
+
+At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of the
+_South Polar Times_ and the following notice was issued:
+
+  The first number of the _South Polar Times_ will be published
+  on Midwinter Day.
+
+  All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously,
+  and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible.
+  No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31.
+
+  A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not
+  intended that the paper shall be too scientific.
+
+[Page 282]
+  Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing.
+  Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration
+  are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible.
+
+                                     The Editor,
+                                            _S. P. T._
+
+The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required
+a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he
+would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were
+fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar
+literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake.
+
+On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of winter
+lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and in turn
+Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured on their
+special subjects. But still the _Discovery_ hut party did not appear,
+although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over for nearly a
+week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that they would return.
+In the meantime there was work and to spare for everyone, and as
+the days went by Scott was also given ample opportunities to get
+a thorough knowledge of his companions.
+
+'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so
+demonstrative of character as that which we had on these expeditions.
+One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under ordinary conditions
+it is so easy to carry a point with a little bounce; self-assertion
+is a mask which covers many a weakness....
+[Page 283]
+Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that
+counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them. Pretence
+is useless.
+
+'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and colour box, rapidly and steadily
+adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at intervals filling
+the gaps in his zoological work of _Discovery_ times; withal ready
+and willing to give advice and assistance to others at all times;
+his sound judgment appreciated and therefore a constant referee.
+
+'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers
+at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations
+are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.'
+
+'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his mind
+with the ice problems of this wonderful region...'
+
+And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E.
+Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and
+conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly
+the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of gratitude.
+
+'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working
+of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all
+arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly adjusted
+to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing the
+length of time which each of our possessions will last us and the
+assurance that there can be no waste.
+[Page 284]
+Active mind and active body were never more happily blended. It
+is a restless activity admitting no idle moments and ever budding
+into new forms.
+
+'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he
+is away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such
+a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out
+again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because for
+the moment there is no one else to care for these animals.... He
+is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any discomfort
+from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with equal profit.
+For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding food and
+clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an authority
+on past records. This will be no small help to me and one which
+others never could have given.
+
+'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly
+pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world.
+The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are
+his field of labour.... His bench with its array of microscopes,
+etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater
+part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic
+enthusiasm....
+
+'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet
+workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness
+to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places;
+sound all through and pretty hard also....
+
+'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really
+[Page 285]
+devoted to their care, and I believe will produce them in the best
+possible form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores,
+installing a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his
+satellite, Anton, is ever at work in the stables--an excellent
+little man.
+
+'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt
+boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is
+no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness.
+
+On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline
+of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the
+problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on
+the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general
+agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed
+to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the
+problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any
+suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be a
+tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.'
+
+At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were returning,
+and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and reported that
+the ponies were not far behind. For more than three weeks the weather
+at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and fine, and with joy
+Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking remarkably well, and
+that the two ponies also seemed to have improved. 'It is a great
+comfort to have the men and dogs back, and a greater to
+[Page 286]
+contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled for the winter.
+Everything seems to depend on these animals.'
+
+With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and games
+of football--when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers to get their
+toes frost-bitten--in the afternoons, the winter passed steadily on
+its way; the only stroke of misfortune being that one of the dogs
+died suddenly and that a post-mortem did not reveal any sufficient
+cause of death. This was the third animal that had died without
+apparent reason at winter-quarters, and Scott became more than
+ever convinced that to place any confidence in the dog teams would
+be a mistake.
+
+On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans
+and Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted
+of a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels--
+and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions.
+The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity
+of provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the
+party discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday
+services had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were
+all that could be mustered.
+
+[Illustration: "BIRDIE" BOWERS READING THE THERMOMETER ON THE RAMP,
+JUNE 6TH, 1911.]
+
+June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did
+not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top
+of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in
+chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott.
+[Page 287]
+A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat down
+with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this luxurious
+meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative. As I write
+there is a group in the dark room discussing political progress
+with large discussions, another at one corner of the dinner table
+airing its views on the origin of matter and the probability of its
+ultimate discovery, and yet another debating military problems....
+Perhaps these arguments are practically unprofitable, but they
+give a great deal of pleasure to the participants.... They are
+boys, all of them, but such excellent good-natured ones; there
+has been no sign of sharpness or anger, no jarring note, in all
+these wordy contests; all end with a laugh. Nelson has offered
+Taylor a pair of socks to teach him some geology! This lulls me
+to sleep!'
+
+On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying,
+and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he
+wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points
+were:
+
+1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to
+   have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass
+   at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it
+   to obtain a true course from the compass....
+
+2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depôt
+   from another.
+
+3. He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite.
+
+[Page 288]
+4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation.
+
+5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to
+   work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.
+
+6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter.
+
+7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries
+   and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time.
+
+8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of
+   objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new
+   peaks, &c.
+
+That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears
+is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later. In
+it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious face
+to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For the
+moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I remembered
+that some months ago I said that it would be a good thing for all
+the officers going South to have some knowledge of navigation so
+that in emergency they would know how to steer a sledge home. It
+appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious and arduous
+course of abstruse navigational problems which he found exceedingly
+tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is not one chance
+in a hundred that he will ever have to consider navigation on our
+journey and in that one chance the problem must be of the simplest
+nature, but it makes it much easier for me to have men who
+[Page 289]
+take the details of one's work so seriously and who strive so simply
+and honestly to make it successful.'
+
+In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working
+at latitude sights--mathematics which I hate--till bedtime. It
+will be wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge
+journey.'
+
+Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions
+to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome,
+a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began to
+prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to sweep
+the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men were out and
+about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the ponies, Demetri
+to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon the slumberers
+with announcements of the time, and presently Wilson and Bowers
+met in a state of nature beside a washing basin filled with snow
+and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this chilly substance.
+A little later others with less hardiness could be seen making the
+most of a meager allowance of water. A few laggards invariably
+ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and a little pressure had
+to be applied so that they should not delay the day's work.
+
+By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table was
+cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed on a
+program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful half-hour
+was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if the
+[Page 290]
+weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who were
+not employed in this way generally exercised themselves in some way
+or other. After this the officers went steadily on with their special
+work until 6.30, when dinner was served and finished within the
+hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and usually the gramophone,
+but three nights of the week were given up to lectures. At 11 P.M.
+the acetylene lights were put out, and those who wished to stay up
+had to depend on candle-light. The majority of candles, however,
+were extinguished by midnight, and the night watchman alone remained
+awake to keep his vigil by the light of an oil lamp.
+
+Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday
+morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on.
+'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage
+of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly
+not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the
+twenty-four.'
+
+On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very
+hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and fears.
+'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than his sledge
+is reliable in action. I wish I could have more confidence in his
+preparations, as he is certainly a delightful companion.' Three
+days later Midwinter was celebrated with great festivities, and
+after lunch the Editor handed over the first number of the _S.
+P. T._ to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at the top of
+[Page 291]
+the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a teacher' is
+the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read aloud most
+of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written by Taylor,
+some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's illustrations
+to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites; indeed the
+editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to Wilson, though
+Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin was also
+'a great help.' As all the contributions were anonymous great fun
+was provided by attempts to guess the various authors, and some
+of the denials made by the contributors were perhaps more modest
+than strictly truthful.
+
+These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared
+with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the
+'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table,
+and at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner.
+
+Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the celebration
+as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in the plans of the
+expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that some of the company
+did not realize how rapidly the weeks were passing, and that in
+consequence work which ought to have been in full swing had barely
+been begun, he went on to say that it was time they knew how they
+stood in every respect, and especially thanked the officer in charge
+of the stores and those who looked after the
+[Page 292]
+animals, for knowing the exact position as regards provision and
+transport. Then he said that in respect to the future chance must
+play a great part, but that experience showed him that no more
+fitting men could have been chosen to support him on the journey
+to the South than those who were to start in that direction in
+the following spring. Finally he thanked all of his companions
+for having put their shoulders to the wheel and given him so much
+confidence.
+
+Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and afterwards
+everyone was called to speak in turn.
+
+'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly,
+all had exceedingly kind things to say of me--in fact I was obliged to
+request the omissions of compliments at an early stage. Nevertheless
+it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition of my attitude
+towards the scientific workers of the expedition, and I felt very
+warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for expressing it. If
+good will and fellowship count towards success, very surely shall
+we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment, much applauded,
+that there had not been a single disagreement between any two members
+of our party from the beginning. By the end of dinner a very cheerful
+spirit prevailed.'
+
+The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged
+in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local
+negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and of
+[Page 293]
+those on board the _Terra Nova_ had been drunk, a set of lancers was
+formed. In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly appeared,
+followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas tree, the branches
+of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little presents
+for everyone; the distribution of which caused infinite amusement.
+Thus the high festival of Midwinter was celebrated in the most
+convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent of a Christmas spent
+in England was partly, at any rate, due to those kind people who
+had anticipated the celebration by providing presents and other
+tokens of their interest in the expedition.
+
+'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an outburst
+in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated the birth
+of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered amongst the
+greatest in our lives.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 294]
+CHAPTER V
+
+WINTER
+
+                            Come what may
+  Time and the hour runs through the darkest day.
+    SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy
+in making preparations for their departure. The object of their
+journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness of an
+Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as could furnish
+a series of early embryos, by means of which alone the particular
+points of interest in the development of the bird could be worked
+out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at the coldest season
+of the year, this journey entailed the risk of sledge traveling in
+mid-winter, and the travelers had also to traverse about a hundred
+miles of the Barrier surface, and to cross a chaos of crevasses
+which had previously taken a party as much as two hours to cross
+by daylight.
+
+[Illustration: PITCHING THE DOUBLE TENT ON THE SUMMIT. (P.O. Evans;
+Dr. Wilson.) _Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers._]
+
+Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard
+were with the help of others making preparations, and apart from the
+[Page 295]
+extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it was most
+interesting because the travelers were to make several experiments.
+Each man was to go on a different food scale, eiderdown sleeping-bags
+were to be carried inside the reindeer ones, and a new kind of
+crampon and a double tent were to be tried. 'I came across a hint
+as to the value of a double tent in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"'
+Scott wrote on June 20, 'and P.O. Evans has made a lining for one
+of the tents, it is secured on the inner side of the poles and
+provides an air space inside the tent. I think it is going to be
+a great success.'
+
+By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans
+were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following
+morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter travel
+is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone to attempt
+it. All good luck go with them!'
+
+While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work
+went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming incident
+until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew furiously,
+but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson and Gran,
+without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the floe for the
+North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This happened at
+5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not until later did
+Scott hear that he had only gone two or three hundred yards from
+the land, and that it had taken him nearly an hour to find his
+way back.
+
+[Page 296]
+Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was
+nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until
+the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At
+9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for
+him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious
+accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once
+dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as
+the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased,
+as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off
+and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one
+conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be
+got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the
+scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched.
+
+Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence;
+and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter
+of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently,
+to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson,
+who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected
+after such an adventure, very confused.
+
+At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have returned
+and all is well again, but we must have no more of these very
+unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize that this
+bit of experience has done more than all the talking I could have
+[Page 297]
+ever accomplished to bring home to our people the dangers of a
+blizzard.'
+
+On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great
+danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not until
+he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was frost-bitten.
+Having waited there for some time he groped his way to the western
+end, and then wandering away in a swirl of drift to clear some
+irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely lost the island when he
+could only have been a few yards from it. In this predicament he clung
+to the old idea of walking up wind, and it must be considered wholly
+providential that on this course he next struck Tent Island. Round
+this island he walked under the impression that it was Inaccessible
+Island, and at last dug himself a shelter on its lee side. When
+the moon appeared he judged its bearing well, and as he traveled
+homeward was vastly surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island
+appear on his left. 'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man
+has not only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must
+struggle with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning
+power which is far more likely to undo him.'
+
+About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had
+ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week. The
+force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled earlier
+in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale was the
+long continuance of a very cold temperature. On
+[Page 298]
+Friday night the thermometer registered -39°, and throughout Saturday
+and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35°. It was
+Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had to
+go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions for
+any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine snow
+beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath,
+and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger
+of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go
+to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while
+engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind
+with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his
+course.
+
+By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5° or +7°, but the gale
+still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge,
+however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to
+Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing
+the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy of
+every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a rainy
+day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal material,
+leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered with the same
+spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares,
+while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects to bemoan imaginary
+shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee that we are prepared
+to face any serious call.'
+
+For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind
+[Page 299]
+moderated, and the ponies were able to get a short walk over the
+floe, but this was only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon
+blowing as furiously as ever. And the following night brought not
+only a continuance of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day
+one of the best ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in
+spite of Oates' and Anton's most careful attention he soon became
+critically ill. Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second,
+and sacks were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour
+after hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on
+Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same
+tale from Oates and Crean,[1] who never left their patient. 'Towards
+midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so certain that
+we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin of safety has
+already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the circumstance
+that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly risk failure.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Bones was the pony which had been allotted to Crean.]
+
+Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement,
+and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and
+proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the
+return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for
+anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue
+to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered
+his sense of security, and although various alterations were made
+in the arrangements of the stables and extra
+[Page 300]
+precautions were taken as regards food, he was never again without
+alarms for the safety of the precious ponies.
+
+Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23,
+but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the
+atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no
+longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity
+of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never
+been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide
+us over all minor difficulties.'
+
+By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the Crozier
+Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they came back
+looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for five weeks
+the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were scarred and
+wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened and creased
+with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite obviously the
+main part of their afflictions arose from sheer lack of sleep,
+and after a night's rest they were very different people both in
+mind and body.
+
+Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this
+morning very much his keen, wiry self--Bowers is quite himself
+to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still
+looks worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely--but
+Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers
+has come through best, all things
+[Page 301]
+considered, and I believe that he is the hardest traveler that ever
+undertook a Polar journey, as well as one of the most undaunted;
+more by hint than direct statement I gather his value to the party,
+his untiring energy and the astonishing physique which enables him
+to continue to work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing
+to others. Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little
+man.'
+
+Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey from
+the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week the
+thermometer fell below -60°, and on one night the minimum showed
+-71°, and on the next -77°. Although in this fearful cold the air
+was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind eddied
+across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized being
+has ever encountered such conditions before with only a tent of
+thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that Amundsen when
+journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures of a similar
+degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him an igloo shelter
+nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight, and finally he
+turned homeward and regained his ship after five days' absence,
+while this party went outward and were absent for five weeks.
+
+Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region, and
+then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard
+followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better than complete
+darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found
+[Page 302]
+themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track,
+sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice
+disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they
+ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge,
+and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the
+stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for
+the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object
+of their journey.
+
+The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be
+made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing
+their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they
+failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started
+again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful
+ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock
+overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel
+hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that
+time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed.
+Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen at
+this rookery in _Discovery_ days, they could only count about a
+hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that possibly
+the date was too early, and that if the birds had not permanently
+deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been seen.
+
+With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber
+for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved,
+made a hasty dash
+[Page 303]
+for their camp, which by good luck they regained.
+
+On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment
+increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they
+had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately
+chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected
+on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and
+rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned
+up, its disappearance being merely a question of time.
+
+Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several
+valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and
+amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore
+it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof
+to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it secure,
+what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it disappeared,
+as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon the smother of
+snow swept over them, and all they could do was to dive immediately
+for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put out his head and said,
+'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones as he could manage, whereupon
+Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied, 'Yes, we're all right'; then
+all of them were silent for a night and half a day, while the wind
+howled and howled, and the snow entered every chink and crevice
+of their sleeping-bags.
+
+'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we registered
+our maximum wind force, and
+[Page 304]
+it seems probable that it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently
+than on us.'
+
+The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched travelers
+then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth over their
+heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in forty-eight
+hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal under these
+extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans to build shelters
+on the homeward route. Every night, they decided, they must dig a
+large pit and cover it as best they could with their floorcloth.
+
+Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile
+from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured.
+But on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard
+fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days.
+
+By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond
+description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact
+they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually
+broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been coated
+with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside vests at night
+they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed it is scarcely
+possible to realize the horrible discomforts of these three forlorn
+travelers, as they plodded back across the Barrier in a temperature
+constantly below -60°.
+
+[Illustration: ADÉLIE PENGUIN ON NEST. _Photo by C. S. Wright._]
+
+[Illustration: EMPEROR PENGUINS ON SEA-ICE. _Photo by C. S. Wright._]
+
+'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of the
+penguins, but to me and to everyone
+[Page 305]
+who has remained here the result of this effort is the appeal it
+makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant stories of Polar
+history. That men should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night
+to face the most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness
+is something new; that they should have persisted in this effort in
+spite of every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a
+tale for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
+
+'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall
+know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays
+its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information
+remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown the
+nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in winter.
+Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have proof,
+and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology of our
+Strait.'
+
+Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey
+Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary.
+Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing
+conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how
+he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to
+himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be
+unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and
+determination.
+
+In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the
+knowledge of the winter conditions on
+[Page 306]
+the Barrier that they had gained, their journey settled several
+points in connection with future sledding work. They had traveled
+on a very simple food ration in different and extreme proportions,
+for the only provisions they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit
+and tea. After a short experience they found that Wilson, who had
+arranged for the greatest quantity of fat, had too much of it,
+while Cherry-Garrard, who had declared for biscuit, had more than
+he could eat. Then a middle course was struck which gave a proportion
+agreeable to all of them, and which at the same time suited the
+total quantities of their various articles of food. The only change
+that was suggested was the addition of cocoa for the evening meal,
+because the travelers, thinking that tea robbed them of their slender
+chance of sleep, had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this
+way,' Scott decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable
+ration for the inland plateau.'
+
+Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the
+eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became
+iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers never
+used his eiderdown bag,[1] and in some miraculous manner he managed
+more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights of the
+sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea of the
+ice collected.
+
+[Footnote 1: He insisted upon giving it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It
+was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully self-sacrificing of him, more
+than I can write. I felt a brute to take it, but I was getting
+useless unless I got some sleep, which my big bag would not allow.']
+
+[Page 307]
+                                       Starting  Final
+                                       Weight    Weight
+  Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown.      17 lbs.   40 lbs.
+  Bowers, reindeer only.               17  "     33  "
+  C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown.  18  "     45  "
+
+The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons
+were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older
+form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated in
+summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of clothes,
+mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the difficulties
+which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all Wilson can
+say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent, excellent." One
+continues to wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as made
+by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our
+more civilized garb. For us this can only be a matter of speculation,
+as it would have been quite impossible to have obtained such articles.
+With the exception of this radically different alternative, I feel
+sure we are as near perfection as experience can direct. At any
+rate we can now hold that our system of clothing has come through
+a severer test than any other, fur included.'
+
+With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed,
+and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the
+returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the
+spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became
+almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott
+[Page 308]
+and the new masters were to take charge on September 1, so that
+they could exercise their respective animals and get to know them
+as well as possible. The new arrangement was:
+
+  Bowers             Victor
+  Wilson             Nobby
+  Atkinson           Jehu
+  Wright             Chinaman
+  Cherry-Garrard     Michael
+  Evans (P.O.)       Snatcher
+  Crean              Bones
+  Keohane            Jimmy Pigg
+  Oates              Christopher
+  Scott and Oates    Snippets.
+
+On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse
+Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously
+discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also
+the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points all
+sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion was
+that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the grating or
+racquet principle, would probably be the best, the only alternative
+seeming to be to perfect the principle of the lawn mowing shoe.
+'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both kinds: the first for the
+quiet animals and the last for the more excitable. I am confident
+the matter is of first importance.'
+
+[Page 309]
+Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming
+a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite
+unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was, Christopher,
+Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high spirits that all
+three of them bolted on the 21st.
+
+A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due,
+and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut.
+Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went
+outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes,
+because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously
+covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back
+into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there
+was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and
+for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental
+attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran
+uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that
+it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous
+existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea
+spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of
+buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and
+it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single
+lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of
+a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from
+the fate of the "one-horse shay."'
+
+[Page 310]
+Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once
+out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts
+and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on life
+of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have changed.
+For if there is little that is new to be said about the return
+of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real and
+important event to those who have lived without it for so many
+months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing
+in brilliant sunshine.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 311]
+CHAPTER VI
+
+GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS
+
+  So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter,
+  the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that
+  human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of
+  any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is
+  simply the unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries a little
+  further from our little sphere of action.--HUXLEY.
+
+With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign
+continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what
+seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went
+off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an
+early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to
+train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he chose
+to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to do, left
+him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased.
+
+Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding
+figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their
+organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little troubled
+by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that every arrangement
+had to be more than usually elastic, so that both the complete
+success and the utter failure of
+[Page 312]
+the motors could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says,
+'that our plan will carry us through without the motors (though in
+that case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage
+of such help as the motors may give.'
+
+The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity
+the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the
+ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of
+these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde,
+however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with
+his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while Bowers,
+Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs' across
+the Western Mountains.
+
+[Illustration: DOG PARTY STARTING FROM HUT POINT. _Photo by F.
+Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: DOG LINES. _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was
+occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey, every
+figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous help.'
+And later on, in speaking of the transport department, Scott says,
+'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the details of my
+plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers is the only
+man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the work without
+mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study was that Scott
+came to the conclusion that there would be no difficulty in getting
+to the Glacier if the motors were successful, and that even if the
+motors failed they still ought to get there with any ordinary degree
+of good fortune. To work three units of four men from that point
+[Page 313]
+onward would, he admitted, take a large amount of provisions, but
+with the proper division he thought that they ought to attain their
+object. 'I have tried,' he said, 'to take every reasonable possibility
+of misfortune into consideration;... I fear to be too sanguine,
+yet taking everything into consideration I feel that our chances
+ought to be good. The animals are in splendid form. Day by day the
+ponies get fitter as their exercise increases.... But we cannot
+spare any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of the
+disablement of one or more before their work is done.'
+
+Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were successful,
+Scott was very eager that they should be of some use so that all the
+time, money and thought which had been given to their construction
+should not be entirely wasted. But whatever the outcome of these
+motors, his belief in the possibility of motor traction for Polar
+work remained, though while it was in an untried and evolutionary
+state he was too cautious and wise a leader to place any definite
+reliance upon it.
+
+If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors,
+he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the
+Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit
+together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled under
+such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more especially
+to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a single detail
+[Page 314]
+of our equipment which is not arranged with the utmost care and in
+accordance with the tests of experience.'
+
+On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for
+Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing up
+the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and preparing
+for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had determined
+to make a better show of photographic work than had yet been
+accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he was
+to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at hand.
+
+With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier
+and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous year,
+of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of practicing
+with their cameras, Scott and his party started off to the west on
+the 15th, without having decided precisely where they were going
+or how long they would stay away.
+
+Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then
+they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral
+Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright
+across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the
+whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very
+cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled
+with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone
+who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went
+every few moments.'
+
+After plotting out the figures it turned out that the
+[Page 315]
+movement varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation,
+and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers. Though
+a greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was small enough
+to show that the idea of comparative stagnation was correct. On the
+next day they came down the Glacier, and then went slowly up the
+coast, dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed the moraine, took
+angles and collected rock specimens. At Cape Bernacchi a quantity of
+pure quartz was found, and in it veins of copper ore--an interesting
+discovery, for it was the first find of minerals suggestive of the
+possibility of working.
+
+On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance
+mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the
+land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it suddenly
+dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the land. Half
+recognizing familiar features they turned towards it, and as they
+got close they saw that it was very like their old Erebus Glacier
+Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and realized that it
+was the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue. Near the outer
+end they camped, and climbing on to it soon found the depôt of
+fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes planted to guide
+the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly anchored, was the piece
+broken from the Glacier Tongue in the previous March, a huge tract
+about two miles long which had turned through half a circle, so
+that the old western end was towards
+[Page 316]
+the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass it is most
+astonishing that it should have remained intact throughout its
+sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the hut should be
+placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants
+would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south of Cape Evans
+is now 4° miles W.N.W. of it.'
+
+[Illustration: PANORAMA AT CAPE EVANS. (Cliffs of Barne Glacier;
+Open Sea; Mount Erebus.) _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: BERG IN SOUTH BAY. _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th,
+just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along
+the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been
+more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they
+had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although
+an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled
+to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started
+again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time
+to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features
+could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of
+the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound
+in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M.,
+however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a
+wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy
+appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another
+snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss
+them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted out.
+Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard swept
+[Page 317]
+upon them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly impossible
+to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage to set up
+the outer one. A few hours later the weather again cleared, and
+as they were more or less snowed up, they decided to push for Cape
+Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at 1.15 A.M., pretty
+well done. The wind never let up for an instant; the temperature
+remained about -16°, and the 21 statute miles which we marched
+in the day must be remembered amongst the most strenuous in my
+memory.... The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily
+accomplished, but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realize
+that I have such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern
+journey. I do not think that harder men or better sledge travelers
+ever took the trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realize all that
+he must have done for the C. Crozier Party in their far severer
+experience.'
+
+Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans,
+everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during
+his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and
+found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to
+the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however,
+had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be
+incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements
+that had already been made for a geological party to go to the
+west would in all probability have to be altered.
+
+[Page 318]
+All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy
+at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that
+Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having great
+trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being harnessed
+and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge. 'He is going,'
+Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony, wrote, 'to be a
+trial, but he is a good strong pony and should do yeoman service.
+Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an ingenious
+person and has been turning up new rollers out of a baulk of oak
+supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small motor as a lathe.
+The motors may save the situation.'
+
+On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became
+convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also
+no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and
+must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss
+we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face
+the bad as well as the good.'
+
+During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual
+exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean
+went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same
+afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line
+had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there had
+been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and found
+himself able to hold long
+[Page 319]
+conversations with Meares and Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact,
+perhaps, but it seems wonderful in this primitive land to be talking
+to one's fellow beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies
+had arrived in fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying
+the heaviest load. If we can keep the telephone going it will be
+a great boon, especially to Meares later in the season.'
+
+After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of
+photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out
+to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries,
+however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which time
+Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from Nelson's
+igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt
+his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a sledge party, and
+fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able to join it. Scott himself
+at once hurried over the land, and found Ponting very distressed
+and Clissold practically insensible.
+
+It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,'
+and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures.
+Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the
+latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,'
+and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve
+feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of the
+berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although neither
+Wilson nor Atkinson
+[Page 320]
+thought that anything very serious had happened, there was no doubt
+that the accident would prevent him from taking the place allotted
+to him in the motor sledge party. Thus there were two men on the
+sick list, and after all the trouble that had been taken to get
+things ready for the summer journeys Scott naturally felt that
+these misfortunes were more than a little deplorable. On the other
+hand, all was going well with the ponies, though Christopher's
+dislike to sledges seemed rather to increase than to lessen. When
+once he was in the sledge he had always behaved himself until October
+13, when he gave a really great exhibition of perversity. On this
+occasion a dog frightened him, and having twisted the rope from
+Oates' hands he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he
+had obtained his freedom, he set about most systematically to get
+rid of his load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged
+two bales of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges
+a better idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them
+with the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell
+swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned
+his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short
+distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his antics
+had brought a small group to the scene, and presently Oates, Bowers,
+Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the sledge. Undaunted,
+however, by this human burden, he tried to treat it as he had the
+bales of hay, and he did manage to
+[Page 321]
+dispose of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into
+the snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly
+glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These capers
+promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the Barrier may
+effectually cure them.'
+
+On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe,
+but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum)
+splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed
+his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance, though
+at the same time retaining his opinion that with more experience
+they might have been of the greatest service. 'The trouble is that
+if they fail, no one will ever believe this.'
+
+The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans
+and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's
+time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing.
+'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always
+fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the
+finest character I ever met--the closer one gets to him the more
+there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable; cannot
+you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, one
+knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal,
+and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and
+things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humour and really
+consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think
+[Page 322]
+he is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much.
+
+'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive
+treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously energetic. He
+is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good
+deal--nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, and certainly
+no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little tales
+to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfishness, and his
+inextinguishable good humor. He surprises always, for his intelligence
+is of quite a high order and his memory for details most exceptional.
+You can imagine him, as he is, an indispensable assistant to me in
+every detail concerning the management and organization of our
+sledding work and a delightful companion on the march.
+
+'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working,
+very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he
+has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't
+had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly
+as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he
+ever complained of anything in his life.
+
+'The Soldier is very popular with all--a delightfully humorous
+cheery old pessimist--striving with the ponies night and day and
+bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut.
+
+'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for helping
+others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind
+thing unobtrusively.
+
+[Page 323]
+'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses
+of him in tight places.
+
+'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice
+characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical ability,
+and I believe is about as good a man as could have been selected
+for his job.
+
+'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others,
+though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round,
+they are a perfectly excellent lot.
+
+'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges and
+sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility of resource
+which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as sound and hard as
+ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote. Crean is perfectly
+happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, the harder the work,
+the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. Lashly is his old
+self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, abstemious
+and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of people
+with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something.
+
+'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such
+a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most
+diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another,
+and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between
+acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jest....
+I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit
+[Page 324]
+here I am very satisfied with these things. I think that it would have
+been difficult to better the organization of the party--every man has
+his work and is especially adapted for it; there is no gap and no
+overlap. It is all that I desired, and the same might well be said of
+the men selected to do the work....
+
+'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets to
+the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel fast
+with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account I
+decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done
+had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan,
+besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for.
+
+'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you.
+Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you can
+rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish--only I'm afraid
+you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture much
+belittled.
+
+'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows.'
+
+The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by the
+weather until October 22, but on that day the most important
+stores--which were for the returning depôts and to provision the
+_Discovery_ hut in case the _Terra Nova_ did not arrive--were taken
+by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their ponies to Glacier Tongue.
+Accidents, however, were still to happen, for while Bowers was
+holding the ponies so
+[Page 325]
+that Wilson and Evans could unload them, Victor got the hook, which
+fastened the harness to the trace of another pony, into his nose.
+At that moment a lot of drift swept upon them, and immediately
+all three of the ponies stampeded, Snatcher making for home and
+Nobby for the Western Mountains, while Victor, with Bowers still
+hanging on to him, just bolted here, there and everywhere. Wilson
+and P.O. Evans at once started after their ponies, and the former
+by means of a biscuit as a bait managed to catch Nobby west of Tent
+Island, but Snatcher arrived, with a single trace and dangling
+sledge, by himself at Cape Evans. Half an hour after Wilson had
+returned Bowers brought in Victor, who had a gash in his nose, and
+was very much distressed. 'I don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers
+managed to hang on to the frightened animal; I don't believe anyone
+else would have done so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet
+the animals appear they must not be left by their drivers--no chance
+must be taken; secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness
+must be altered in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were
+to be expected, one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous
+and expect them to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we
+are off and can know more definitely what resources we can count
+on.'
+
+In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two
+days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western
+Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident
+[Page 326]
+being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery while
+Debenham's knee was given time to improve.
+
+On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start,
+but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the next
+morning did they get away. At first there were frequent stops,
+but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as even a
+small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be enough to
+show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport, and so help
+to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition of animal
+transport, he was intensely anxious about the result of this trial
+trip. As this subject was one which was of the most supreme interest
+to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an expert upon these motor
+sledges. 'It has been said that Captain Scott's sledges failed, and
+without further consideration the design has been totally condemned,
+but this is quite unfair to the design; and it must be admitted
+by everyone who has had anything to do with the sledges, and has
+any sort of knowledge of mechanical principles, that it was _the
+engine_ that failed, not the transmission gear at all. The engine
+used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one, and most unexpectedly in
+the cold climate of the Antarctic it over-heated and broke various
+parts, beyond possibility of repair under the severe conditions.
+The reason of the breakdown therefore applies to any and every
+form of motor sledge, and should a satisfactory engine be available
+for one form of sledge, it is equally
+[Page 327]
+available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair judgment
+to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would have applied
+equally to every form of motor transport which could have been
+designed.'
+
+Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique
+experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott
+declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even
+the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly
+impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on
+like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.'
+
+As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party--which
+consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde--would have to leave
+after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should be wasting
+the season in this way. All things considered, I shall be glad
+to get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote on the
+28th. And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are just
+off to Hut Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave in an
+hour or so as arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall all
+get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with the
+first chapter of our History. The future is in the lap of the gods;
+I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 328]
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS
+
+                 Free men freely work.
+  Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease.
+    E. B. BROWNING.
+
+'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of
+missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape
+Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going away
+with high hopes of success and for the moment everything smiles, but
+where risks must be taken the result must be dependent on chance
+to some extent.
+
+'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have
+lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all
+are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result,
+the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.'
+
+The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading
+Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the
+tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being
+allowed to start, although so little confidence was still
+[Page 329]
+placed in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his
+own pace to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,'
+but the chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the
+persistently active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole
+way.
+
+On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat
+disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good knowledge
+was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and the plan of
+advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start was to be
+made from Hut Point in three parties--the very slow ponies, the
+medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day, E. R. Evans,
+Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place) were already
+on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri, were to follow
+the main detachments.
+
+Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was
+said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with
+Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and
+Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well together
+on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who reported that
+Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after Scott's party had
+camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri and a small dog team,
+and the cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard,
+which came along in fine form with Snatcher, 'a wonderful little
+beast,' leading. Christopher had given his customary exhibition when
+[Page 330]
+harnessed, and although the Barrier surface had sobered him a little
+it was not thought advisable for him to stop, and so the party
+fled through in the wake of the advance guard, and were christened
+'the through train.'
+
+'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says, 'we
+packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like these
+midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is pleasant
+when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases its
+heat. The two parties in front of us camped five miles beyond Safety
+Camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an
+hour later. All the ponies are tethered in good order, but most
+of them are tired--Chinaman and Jehu _very tired_.... A petrol
+tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motors passed
+at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong--they have from four to five days'
+lead and should surely keep it.'
+
+On the next march they started in what for some time was to be
+the settled order--Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's at
+10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting they
+picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both the
+motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80° 30' Lat.' But very soon
+afterwards a depôt of petrol was found; and worse was to follow,
+as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across a tin bearing
+the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2 cylinder broken.'
+Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking sledges, &c.; and
+notes from E. Evans and Day to
+[Page 331]
+tell the tale of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used
+for Lashly's machine, and as it would have taken a long time to
+strip Day's engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they
+had decided to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So
+the dream of help from the machines is at an end! The track of
+the remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I
+shall expect to see it every hour of the march.'
+
+On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a
+bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and not
+until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much confidence
+in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E. Evans saying
+that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day. 'They have taken
+on nine bags of forage, but there are three black dots to the south
+which we can only imagine are the deserted motor with its loaded
+sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting party, as directed.
+It is a disappointment. I had hoped better of the machines once
+they got away on the Barrier Surface.'
+
+From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged
+that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to be
+the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed. Another
+note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. The big
+end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine was in
+good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this misfortune,
+'the engines are not
+[Page 332]
+fitted for working in this climate, a fact that should be certainly
+capable of correction. One thing is proved: the system of propulsion
+is altogether satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a
+man-hauling party as arranged.'
+
+As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls were
+at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was more
+than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with loads
+of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as fit as
+they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing of their
+loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs., sledge included.
+'We are all much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening
+up of ponies which have been well trained; even Oates is pleased!'
+
+The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done in
+the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their new rugs
+and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could scarcely feel
+the wind, and as this protection was a direct result of experience
+gained in the previous year, Scott was glad to feel that some good
+had been obtained from that disastrous journey. But when the snow
+began to fall the ponies as usual suffered, because it was impossible
+to devise any means of keeping them comfortable in thick and driving
+snow. 'We men are snug and comfortable enough, but it is very evil to
+lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping the strength
+of the beasts on which so
+[Page 333]
+much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful on such
+occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon of the
+7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped about
+a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so soon
+Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety, but
+at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs would
+pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face such
+terrific winds.
+
+The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and
+the question of starting was left open for a long time, several
+of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the
+decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after
+midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that
+his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman
+took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman
+even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In
+fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and this
+not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of the ponies
+halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but Christopher
+had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for his tricks
+and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to cling like
+grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had worn off,
+and this was a long rather than a light task, as even after ten
+miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got the smallest
+chance.
+
+[Page 334]
+A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage
+and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs.
+Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and although
+the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it still remained
+a question how the ponies would get on under harder conditions,
+Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very encouraging. The
+cairns built in the previous year showed up very distinctly and
+were being picked up with the greatest ease, and this also was
+an additional cause for satisfaction because with pony walls, camp
+sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march seemed as if it
+must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott says, 'Everyone
+is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we camped this
+morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely and the
+sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. One
+devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the windy
+Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped, traveling
+easily.'
+
+On the next march they remained faithful to their program of advancing
+a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during the last
+two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together. 'It looked
+like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was Cherry-Garrard's
+account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's opinion it was
+clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment, because the
+slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace by joining
+[Page 335]
+with the others, while the fast rearguard had their speed reduced.
+This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose attempt to bolt,
+though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling canter, was
+freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for a pony who
+at the start had been thought incapable of doing a single march.
+
+The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in
+consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In arriving
+at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong head wind,
+and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading, found it
+so impossible to see where he was going that he decided to camp
+some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies continued
+to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed distance.
+
+A worse surface was in store for them when they started from Camp
+7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst they
+had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained soft,
+and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft crust between
+a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between these the snow lay
+in sandy heaps, making altogether the most difficult conditions
+for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger ponies continued to pull
+excellently, and even the poor old crocks succeeded in covering
+9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes one anxious in spite of the
+rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these marches
+to be a little difficult, but not near so bad as to-day's.... In
+spite of the surface, the dogs ran up from the camp before last,
+[Page 336]
+over 20 miles, in the night. They are working splendidly.'
+
+The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following
+day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon
+the last year's Bluff depôt. Here Scott found a note, from which
+he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must be
+the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson had
+a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought,
+only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic
+than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days;
+and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well,
+Jehu especially distinguishing himself.
+
+'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13, 'in
+a better position to know how we stand when we get to One Ton Camp,
+now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these beasts--very
+anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to have been, and if
+they pull through well, all the thanks will be due to Oates. I
+trust the weather and surface conditions will improve; both are
+rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within 7 or 8 miles
+of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface and some
+sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although the ponies
+were working splendidly, it was painful work for them to struggle
+on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when harnessed were
+already a thing of the past--a fact which
+[Page 337]
+would have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that
+his strength was also beginning to diminish.
+
+One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed on
+to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest there,
+and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical miles (15
+statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will get through, but
+that they have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering
+his usually pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful
+view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I think that a good many
+of the beasts are actually in better form than when they started,
+and that there is no need to be alarmed about the remainder, always
+excepting the weak ones which we have always regarded with doubt.
+Well, we must wait and see how things go.'
+
+Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating that
+his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait for
+the main detachment at Lat. 80° 30'. The minimum thermometer left
+there in the previous year showed -73°, which was rather less than
+Scott had expected.
+
+After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger
+ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over
+400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of
+them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion.
+By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans
+being victims, while Meares, when told
+[Page 338]
+that his nose was 'gone,' remarked that he was tired of it and that
+it would thaw out by and by!
+
+Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on such
+a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on November
+18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The surface is,
+if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I should think
+about the sort of thing we shall have to expect henceforward....
+It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the Glacier; meanwhile
+we get along somehow.'
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of rather
+bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and Chinaman
+began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being re-christened
+'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' Again Scott
+began to take a hopeful view of getting through, unless the surfaces
+became infinitely worse.
+
+While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and
+his party in Lat. 80° 32', and heard that they had been waiting
+for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn.
+All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry--an
+informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was
+ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough
+for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision
+that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification,
+though even with the rations that were
+[Page 339]
+to be taken he had no doubt that hunger would attack the party.
+
+After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party
+on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should
+return.
+
+Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at
+Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier.
+'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were
+to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.'
+
+Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the usual
+march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies now quite
+steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor Party the
+procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go forward just
+ahead of the crocks, the other party following two or three hours
+later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the crocks must have
+been going very well. However, the fiat had already gone forth,
+and this morning (November 24) after the march poor old Jehu was
+led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his reaching
+Hut Point, it is wonderful to think that he has actually got eight
+marches beyond our last year limit, and could have gone more. However,
+towards the end he was pulling very little, and on the whole it is
+merciful to have ended his life. Chinaman seems to improve and
+will certainly last a good many days yet. I feel we ought to get
+through now. Day and Hooper leave us to-night.'
+
+[Page 340]
+Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much
+Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was at
+the loss of his pony.
+
+After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged and
+started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and Lashly,
+went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then came Wright
+with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest following close
+behind them. But although the two crocks had not been given their
+usual start, they stuck to their work so gallantly that at the
+finish they were less than a quarter of a mile behind.
+
+At Camp 22, in Lat. 81° 35' the Middle Barrier Depôt was made,
+and as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually getting
+back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their journey was
+struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At the start
+the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made such heavy
+weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This threw the
+ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six hours were
+spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first part of
+the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The advance
+party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in keeping
+a course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with a rise of
+temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At this time
+the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the man-haulers also
+found it impossible to steer. The march of 13 miles was eventually
+completed, but under
+[Page 341]
+the most harassing circumstances and with very tired animals.
+
+'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13
+(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can
+only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a
+glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired
+animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright
+now after the day's march.'
+
+No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the following
+day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them, the driving snow
+not only preventing them from seeing anything, but also hitting
+them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was shot on this night,
+but in struggling on until he was within go miles of the Glacier
+he had done more than was ever expected of him; and with only four
+bags of forage left the end of all the ponies was very near at
+hand.
+
+During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82° 21', 'the most unexpected
+and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased,
+and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching
+the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close to
+them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the 29th,
+'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies are tired,
+but I believe all have five days' work left in them, and some a
+great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be employed, rested
+and fed well on the homeward track. We could really get through now
+[Page 342]
+with their help and without much delay, yet every consideration makes
+it desirable to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible.
+So I devoutly hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of
+things.'
+
+Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both of
+them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and if he
+stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott admitted,
+a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond of Snippets
+as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying when on the
+march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant weather with it,
+but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies, with the exception
+of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure. A recurrence of
+'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a report) was encountered,
+and the ponies very often sank nearly to their knees.
+
+At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of extreme
+exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce that even Nobby
+had nearly reached the end of his life. On this night (December
+1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility could he be much
+regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at the outset,
+and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength had also
+disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,' Cherry-Garrard
+wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.'
+
+A depôt, called the Southern Barrier Depôt, was left at Camp 27,
+so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the other ponies.
+'Three more marches
+[Page 343]
+ought to carry us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams
+we _must_ get through, I think. The men alone ought not to have
+heavy loads on the surface, which is extremely trying.'
+
+On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes, and
+for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but then
+the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless, in Scott's
+opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the thing for
+ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use them from the
+beginning their condition would have been very different from what
+it was.
+
+From Camp 28, Lat. 83°, Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad weather
+conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. last night meant
+mischief, and all day we marched in falling snow with a horrible
+light.... The ponies were sinking deep in a wretched surface. I
+suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission to watch
+the animals, but he much preferred to lead one, so I handed over
+Snippets very willingly and went on ski myself.' This he found
+such easy work, that he had time to take several photographs of
+the ponies as they plunged through the snow. But in the afternoon
+they found a better surface, and Scott, who was leading, had to
+travel at a very steady pace to keep the lead.
+
+When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel,
+and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage becoming
+scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor--to the great sorrow of Bowers,
+[Page 344]
+who was very fond of him--had to be shot. Six ponies remained,
+and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of the party
+reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could see their
+way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey remarked on
+December 15 that it was the first day for a month on which he could
+not record splendid weather. With Scott's party, however, a fine
+day had been the exception rather than the rule, and the journey
+had been one almost perpetual fight against bad weather and bad
+surfaces.
+
+The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson,
+Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and Crean;
+(3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. 'We
+have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't
+thought of.'
+
+At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away
+at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather
+once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just a
+chance that they might be able to march, but while they were having
+breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest wind I
+have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony wall was
+blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts had collected.
+In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the pony walls, but
+the flanking wall was blown down three times before the job was
+completed. About mid-day the weather improved and soon afterwards
+the clouds broke and the land appeared; and when they got away at
+[Page 345]
+2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But this pleasant state of
+affairs was only destined to last for one short hour; after that
+snow again began to fall, and marching conditions became supremely
+horrible. The wind increased from the S.E., changed to S. W., where
+for a time it remained, and then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and
+afterwards to N.N.W., from which direction it continued to blow
+with falling and drifting snow. But in spite of these rapid and
+absolutely bewildering changes of conditions they managed to get
+11-1/2 miles south and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however,
+camped after six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a
+course. 'We (Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting
+snow across our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi
+under them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The
+whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they
+continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly
+placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor--we have had
+all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly won
+under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the forage is
+lasting a little better than expected... we should have no difficulty
+whatever as regards transport if only the weather was kind.' On the
+following day the weather was still in a bad mood, for no sooner
+had they got on their gear for the start than a thick blizzard
+from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone started to build fresh
+walls for the ponies, an uninviting task enough in a regular white
+flowing blizzard, but one which added
+[Page 346]
+greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and bored,
+but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the man-haulers
+came into camp, having been assisted in their course by the tracks
+that the other parties had made.
+
+Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M. they
+were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their credit.
+During this march the land was quite clearly in view, and several
+uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The mountains
+were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent peaks, one
+or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare and almost
+perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded, boulder-strewn
+Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We should reach it
+easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can compass 12 miles....
+We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two wretched days, but the
+disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard
+to the Glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days.
+One has a horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However,
+sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically
+through with the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last
+Camp (29) towards the S.S.E., where the farthest land can be seen,
+it seemed more than probable that a very high latitude could be
+reached on the Barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has
+a stroke of luck, he may well find his summit journey reduced to
+100 miles or so. In any case it is a fascinating direction for
+next year's work, if only fresh transport arrives.'
+
+[Page 347]
+On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing
+the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had
+food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have
+gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael'
+had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having done
+so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was just like
+a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he has been a good
+friend and has a good record, 83° 22' S. He was a bit done to-day,
+the blizzard had knocked him.'
+
+By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to find a
+raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had so constantly
+bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery snow which is usually
+an especial feature of a blizzard, but on this occasion they got
+enough and to spare of it. Anyone who went into the open for a
+minute or two was covered from head to foot, and as the temperature
+was high the snow stuck where it fell. The heads, tails and legs
+of the ponies were covered with ice, and they had to stand deep in
+snow. The sledges were almost covered, and there were huge drifts
+about the tent. It was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer
+than he could help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they
+retreated sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small
+satisfaction of being able to see from one tent to another was
+denied them, and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather
+could mean at this
+[Page 348]
+time of year, stated emphatically that no party could possibly travel
+against such a wind.
+
+'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance
+which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, or
+are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? If the
+latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small party
+struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go smilingly
+forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of luck! No
+foresight--no procedure--could have prepared us for this state of
+affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or certain of our
+aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.'
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPÔT. (Mt. Hope.)
+_Photo by R. F. Scott._]
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING SOUTH FROM LOWER GLACIER DEPÔT. (Mt. Hope.)
+_Photo by R. F. Scott._]
+
+The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest that
+Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal. And
+to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained
+so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow,
+with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &c., were
+all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles and
+door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the
+situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough,
+however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth
+quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under
+which it was produced:
+
+  The snow is all melting and everything's afloat,
+  If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent
+    upside down and use it as a boat.
+
+The next day Scott described as 'miserable,
+[Page 349]
+utterly miserable. We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When
+within twelve miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel
+fortune to be held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature
+at noon had risen to 33°, and everything was more soakingly wet
+than ever, if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly
+desolate, and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls,
+tents and sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of
+marching again were dashed on the following morning, when the storm
+continued and the situation became most serious; after this day only
+one small feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either
+to march or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not
+the most serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could
+without doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely
+was that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their
+summit rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take
+them on from the Glacier depôt had been begun.
+
+In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its
+character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an
+end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move.
+Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an easy
+one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid, and so
+nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for bad weather
+was ample according to all experience, and this stormy December--our
+finest month--is a thing that the most cautious organizer
+[Page 350]
+might not have been prepared to encounter.... There cannot be good
+cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break out
+again. In the brief spell of hope last night one heard laughter.'
+
+Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as every
+hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of their plans,
+no one can wonder that they chafed over this most exasperating
+delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have been melancholy
+enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls of their tents and to
+hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow and the ceaseless
+rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when the prospect of failure
+of their cherished plan was added to the acute discomforts of the
+situation, it is scarcely possible to imagine how totally miserable
+they must have been both in body and mind. Nevertheless in the
+midst of these distressing conditions Scott managed to write, 'But
+yet, after all, one can go on striving, endeavoring to find a
+stimulation in the difficulties that arise.'
+
+Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The
+snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying
+in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such
+circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents and dig
+out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to the smallest
+space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites being deep
+pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting of them at
+least made things more comfortable, and as the
+[Page 351]
+wind dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed
+signs of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow
+was falling again, and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely
+desperate.
+
+To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during
+the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed
+to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees,
+and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances
+was anything but encouraging.
+
+Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies finished,
+but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite of the surface,
+_if it comes to-morrow_. If it should not, we must kill the ponies
+to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men on ski and the
+dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on such a surface. I
+much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh! for fine weather,
+if only to the Glacier.'
+
+By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last began
+really to break. The temperature also helped matters by falling
+to +26°, and in consequence the water nuisance began to abate;
+and at the prospect of action on the following morning cheerful
+sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies look
+wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they
+are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left
+in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all things
+[Page 352]
+considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but nothing can
+recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned out two or
+three times to find the weather slowly improving, and at 8 o'clock
+on December 9 they started upon a most terrible march to Camp 31.
+
+The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and
+the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could
+be led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to
+follow the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to
+seem as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers
+were pressed into the service to try and improve matters.
+
+Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge and
+made a track--thus most painfully a mile or so was gained. Then
+when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans saved
+the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon Snatcher,
+who at once began to go on without much pressure, and was followed
+by the other ponies.
+
+No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious miles
+they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added to the
+difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled on,
+and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending to
+the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was
+a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain
+rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott
+had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he
+[Page 353]
+would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him.
+
+By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They
+came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was
+hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the pulling
+heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. Poor beasts!
+they have done wonderfully well considering the terrible circumstances
+under which they worked.'
+
+On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all
+my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow,
+and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food
+is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had all
+my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we camped
+I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses are now all
+done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.'
+
+This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although the
+ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance Scott had
+expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that distressing
+march, were relieved to know that the sufferings of their plucky
+animals had at last come to an end.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 354]
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER
+
+  In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice
+  To be imprison'd in the viewless winds
+  And blown with restless violence round about.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized,
+and for some days advanced in the following order:
+
+  Sledge 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans.
+  Sledge 2. E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.
+  Sledge 3. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with
+            Meares and Demetri continuing to drive the dogs.
+
+When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads
+could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success
+attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was
+delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they
+got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's
+party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised
+to find it running fairly easily
+[Page 355]
+behind them. The first mile was gained in about half an hour, but
+then they began to rise, and soon afterwards with the slope becoming
+steeper and the surface getting worse they had to take off their
+ski. After this the pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for
+they sank above their finnesko, and in some places nearly up to
+their knees.
+
+The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of ice
+from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges themselves
+sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they reached the
+top of the slope, and after tea started on the down grade. On this
+they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the upward slope, but
+they could just manage to get along on ski.
+
+Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace set
+by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard some news
+that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote, 'that Atkinson
+says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly is not so fit as
+he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I have not
+felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march to-day
+showed clearly that something was wrong.... True, the surface was
+awful and growing worse every moment. It is a very serious business
+if the men are going to crack up. As for myself, I never felt fitter
+and my party can easily hold its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is
+a tower of strength, but Oates and Wilson are doing splendidly
+also.'
+
+Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched
+[Page 356]
+the snow was appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks
+to the knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to
+support the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though
+under ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome,
+on this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow;
+and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half
+another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs, and
+in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each sledge-load.
+
+Before starting from Camp 32 they built a depôt (the Lower Glacier
+depôt), made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal of gear
+there. Then at the very beginning of their march they got into
+big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses. After
+four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and then
+they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a note
+from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might be,
+but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This is
+only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as well
+as of old.'
+
+The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether
+they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party went
+away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make fairly
+good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft patch
+which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the sledge and
+hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December 11, at Camp 33,
+[Page 357]
+'to treat such occasions with patience.... The great thing is to
+keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were dozens
+of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a few when
+it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and tiring.
+But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed
+to the game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come
+up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a
+halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant;
+all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but unfortunately our
+history was not repeated with the other parties. Bowers came up
+half an hour after us. They also had done well at the last, and
+I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane is the only
+weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily blind. But
+Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite well, but
+got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by straining again
+and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from bad to worse. Their
+ski shoes, too, are out of trim.'
+
+During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth
+Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and then
+the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards still
+further to the west. In consequence they got a much better view of
+the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's party had
+obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously were observed.
+On the first stage of this march Scott's party was bogged time after
+[Page 358]
+time, and do what they could their sledge dragged like a huge lump of
+lead. Evans' team had been sent off in advance and kept well ahead
+until lunch-time. Then, when Scott admits being 'pretty well cooked,'
+the secret of their trouble was disclosed in a thin film with some
+hard knots of ice on the runners of the sledge; these impediments
+having been removed they went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile
+or two resumed their leading position. As they advanced it became
+more and more evident that, with the whole of the lower valley
+filled with snow from the storm, they would have been bogged had
+they been without ski. 'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if
+pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee and thigh.'
+
+Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they rose,
+but on the next march the surface became worse instead of better,
+the sledges simply plunging into the soft places and stopping dead.
+So slow in fact was the progress they made, that on his sledge Scott
+decided at lunch to try the 10-foot runners under the cross-bars,
+for the sledge was sinking so deeply that the cross-pieces were
+on the surface and acting as brakes. Three hours were spent in
+securing the runners, and then Scott's party started and promptly
+saw what difficulties the other teams were having.
+
+In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and
+his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them.
+But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining and
+a high temperature
+[Page 359]
+had become very wet and sticky, and again and again the sledge got
+one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its side, and
+refused to move. At the top of the rise Evans' party was reduced
+to relay work, and shortly afterwards Bowers was compelled to adopt
+the same plan. 'We,' Scott says, 'got our whole load through till 7
+P.M., camping time, but only with repeated halts and labour which
+was altogether too strenuous. The other parties certainly cannot
+get a full load along on the surface, and I much doubt if we could
+continue to do so, but we must try again to-morrow. I suppose we
+have advanced a bare four miles to-day and the aspect of things
+is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500 feet.'
+
+On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35,
+and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much easier
+than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed without getting
+along so well, and so Scott, whose party were having no difficulty
+with their load, exchanged sledges with them, and a satisfactory
+morning's march was followed by still better work in the afternoon,
+eleven or twelve miles being gained. 'I think the soft snow trouble
+is at an end, and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of
+the present surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling
+our load with the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along
+and to find some adequate return for the work we are putting into
+the business.'
+
+At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had
+[Page 360]
+reached a height of about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the
+surface steadily improved and the snow covering over the blue ice
+became thinner and thinner. During the afternoon they found that
+at last they could start their sledges by giving one good heave,
+and so, for the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they
+liked without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again
+set the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard névé were beginning to
+show through in places, and had not the day's work been interrupted
+by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would have been a really good
+one, but, as it was, eleven more miles had to be put to their credit.
+The weather looked, however, very threatening as they turned in
+for the night, and Scott expressed a fervent hope that they were
+not going to be afflicted by snowstorms as they approached the
+worst part of the glacier.
+
+As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface difficult
+when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their work for over
+ten hours--'the limit of time to be squeezed into one day'--they
+covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect of the glacier.
+Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had to take them off
+in the afternoon because they struck such a peculiarly difficult
+surface that the sledges were constantly being brought up. Then
+on foot they made better progress, though no advance could be made
+without the most strenuous labour. The brittle crust would hold
+for a pace or two, and then let them down with a bump, while now
+and again a leg went down a crack in the hard ice underneath. So
+[Page 361]
+far, since arriving among the disturbances, which increased rapidly
+towards the end of the march, they had not encountered any very
+alarming crevasses, though a large quantity of small ones could
+be seen.
+
+At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For
+once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof." Our
+luck may be on the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of the
+hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed
+and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's;
+he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our
+last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very bad time....
+I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due
+to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the
+cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip
+up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on
+halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that is all we want, and
+we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We have worn our crampons
+all day (December 17) and are delighted with them. P.O. Evans, the
+inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased, and
+certainly we owe him much.'
+
+On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day
+and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was
+accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers could
+keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were crossing
+it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold. Still,
+however, they stuck most splendidly to their
+[Page 362]
+task, and on the following day even a better march was made to Camp
+41.
+
+Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross
+cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee
+and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface over
+which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was spent over
+the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs and sketches
+were taken, and continuing to make progress in the second part of
+the day's march they finished up with a gain of 17 miles. 'It has
+not been a strain except perhaps for me with my wounds received
+early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on the march, which
+has in consequence been very much pleasanter.... Days like this
+put heart in one.'
+
+On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the previous
+two days were put entirely into the shade by one of nearly 23 miles,
+during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the sledges in crampons was
+not at all difficult on the hard snow and on hard ice with patches
+of snow. At night they camped in Lat. 84° 59' 6", and then Scott had
+to perform a task that he most cordially disliked. 'I have just
+told off the people to return to-morrow night: Atkinson, Wright,
+Cherry-Garrard and Keohane. All are disappointed--poor Wright rather
+bitterly, I fear. I dreaded this necessity of choosing--nothing
+could be more heartrending. I calculated our program to start from
+85° 10' with twelve units of food[1] and
+[Page 363]
+eight men. We ought to be in this position to-morrow night, less
+one day's food. After all our harassing trouble one cannot but
+be satisfied with such a prospect.'
+
+[Footnote 1: A unit of food means a week's supplies for four men.]
+
+The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident,
+was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were
+frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they
+were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their
+tents for nearly three hours.
+
+During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken
+back by the returning party.
+
+'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on, considering
+all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, otherwise
+arrangements are working exactly as planned.
+
+'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best
+of them.
+
+'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through
+to the Pole.
+
+'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear,
+an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region.
+Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness
+this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I
+get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which
+step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one
+could only go on.
+
+'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the valley
+out of the fog and away from
+[Page 364]
+crevasses. So here we are practically on the summit and up to date
+in the provision line. We ought to get through.'
+
+After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst crevasses,
+and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The pull up
+the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until 7.30 P.M.
+they got off a good march and found a satisfactory place for their
+depôt. Fortunately the weather was both calm and bright, and all
+the various sorting arrangements that had to be made before the
+returning party left them were carried out under most favorable
+conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an immense relief to have
+the indefatigable little Bowers to see to all detail arrangements of
+this sort,' and on the following day he added, 'we said an affecting
+farewell to the returning party, who have taken things very well,
+dear good fellows as they are.'
+
+Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans;
+Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their heavy
+loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull them
+were soon removed.
+
+'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his
+diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and snowing
+when we started after making the depôt, and the last we saw of them
+as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just disappearing
+over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave ahead of them.'
+
+[Page 365]
+Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and arrived
+at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for three months.
+
+Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some
+time during their first march under the new conditions, but they
+managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter
+every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the requisite
+progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next morning they
+soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and pressure, that
+they were compelled to haul out to the north, and then to the west.
+One comfort was that all the time they were rising. 'It is rather
+trying having to march so far to the west, but if we keep rising
+we must come to the end of the disturbance some time.' During the
+second part of this march great changes of fortune awaited them. At
+first they started west up a slope, and on the top another pressure
+appeared on the left, but less lofty and more snow-covered than
+that which had troubled them in the morning. There was temptation
+to try this, but Scott resisted it and turned west up yet another
+slope, on the top of which they reached a most extraordinary surface.
+Narrow crevasses, that were quite invisible, ran in all directions.
+All of these crevasses were covered with a thin crust of hardened
+névé which had not a sign of a crack in it. One after another,
+and sometimes two at a time, they all fell in; and though they
+were getting fairly accustomed to unexpected falls through being
+unable to mark the run of
+[Page 366]
+the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks were covered
+with soft snow, they had never expected to find a hardened crust
+formed over a crack, and such a surface was as puzzling as it was
+dangerous and troublesome.
+
+For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow
+crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose
+crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a
+glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave place
+to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every direction.
+At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about 7,750 feet), 17
+miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling 'very cheerful
+about everything.' 'My determination,' he said, 'to keep mounting
+irrespective of course is fully justified, and I shall be indeed
+surprised if we have any further difficulties with crevasses or
+steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal seems really in
+sight.'
+
+On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single
+crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and Scott
+confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such disturbances.
+Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from crevasses--'very
+hard, smooth névé between high ridges at the edge of crevasses, and
+therefore very difficult to get foothold to pull the sledges.' To
+remedy matters they got out their ski sticks, but this did not prevent
+several of them from going half-down; while Lashly, disappearing
+completely, had to be pulled out by
+[Page 367]
+means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet deep
+and 8 feet across, in form U, showing that the word "unfathomable"
+can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and as hard as nails.
+His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.'
+
+When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge a
+better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch--at which they
+had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins--was all the more enjoyable
+because 8 miles or so had already been gained.
+
+In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land,
+but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end
+of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline
+down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped
+and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says,
+'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The
+first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored
+with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an
+arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding;
+then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and ginger.
+After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I couldn't
+finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept splendidly and
+feel thoroughly warm--such is the effect of full feeding.'
+
+The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night,
+was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15
+miles were covered
+[Page 368]
+in the day and the 86th parallel was reached. Crevasses still appeared,
+and though they avoided them on this march, they were not so lucky
+during the next stage to Camp 49.
+
+In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several
+reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer,
+and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids.
+Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi
+which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team
+that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they
+found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an
+hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled
+into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the
+party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot allow
+one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this afternoon,
+one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying and tiring.
+I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have not lost sight of
+the sun since we came on the summit; we should get an extraordinary
+record of sunshine. It is monotonous work this; the sledgemeter
+and theodolite govern the situation.'
+
+During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather'
+that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not
+improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team had
+[Page 369]
+not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for P.O.
+Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time they
+discussed the difficulties that the second party was having, and
+several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the team
+was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad stepping
+and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's party's
+sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's.
+
+On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and
+his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon,
+and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in soft
+snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling the
+sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the cause of
+the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due to want
+of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure has been
+distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &c. The party are not
+done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle with the
+trouble and get it right for themselves.'
+
+Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about
+9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which
+the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on
+two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises
+and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were
+responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was
+one satisfactory result of the
+[Page 370]
+march, for now that the second party had seen to the loading of
+their sledge they had ceased to lag.
+
+But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the
+conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52,
+on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a day,
+make a depôt and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party is
+certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage with
+the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly much
+worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10°.) We have caught up
+Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could persuade
+myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.'
+
+Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and
+the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun
+by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work.
+Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party.
+To build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special
+record.'
+
+[Illustration: MAN HAULING CAMP, 87TH PARALLEL. _Photo by Lieut.
+H. R. Bowers._]
+
+Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they
+hoped to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A depôt,
+called 'Three Degree Depôt,' consisting of a week's provision for
+both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning, with
+lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while Scott's
+team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate the New
+Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole, prospects
+[Page 371]
+seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and on the next
+evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans, Lashly and Crean
+should go back after one more march.
+
+Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take
+it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a
+five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food--practically
+over a month's allowance for five people--it ought to see us
+through....  Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow;
+if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically
+safe, I take it.'
+
+By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January
+3, in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87° 32".' A last note from a hopeful
+position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine party
+going forward and arrangements are all going well.'
+
+On the next morning the returning men followed a little way until
+Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then farewells
+were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans, Crean and
+Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge is a mere
+nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a quick journey
+back,' and under average conditions they should easily have fulfilled
+anticipations. But a blizzard held them up for three days before
+they reached the head of the glacier, and by the time they reached
+the foot of it E. Evans had developed symptoms of scurvy. At One
+Ton Camp he was unable to stand without the support of his ski sticks,
+[Page 372]
+and although, with the help of his companions, he struggled on for
+53 more miles in four days, he could go no farther. Rejecting his
+suggestion that he should be left alone while they pressed on for
+help, Crean and Lashly pulled him on the sledge with a devotion
+matching that of their captain years before, when he and Wilson had
+brought Shackleton, ill and helpless, safely to the _Discovery_.
+
+After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and then
+there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not travel.
+In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, 34 miles
+away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most certainly was
+the means of keeping him alive until help came. After a remarkable
+march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and as soon as possible
+Atkinson and Demetri started off with both dog teams to relieve
+Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by persistent bad weather,
+but on February 22 Evans was got back to the _Discovery_ hut, where
+he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson; and subsequently he was
+sent by sledge to the _Terra Nova_. So ended the tale of the last
+supporting party, though, as a sequel, it is good to record that
+in reward for their gallant conduct both Lashly and Crean received
+the Albert Medal.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 373]
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE SOUTH POLE
+
+  The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep
+    As our sledge runners slid on the snow,
+  And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet
+    Struck mute like a silent blow
+  On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust
+    Shrank shivering over the floe.
+  And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back
+    Which was lost in a white fog-bow.
+
+  And this was the thought that the Silence wrought,
+    As it scorched and froze us through,
+  For the secrets hidden are all forbidden
+    Till God means man to know.
+  We might be the men God meant should know
+    The heart of the Barrier snow,
+  In the heat of the sun, and the glow,
+    And the glare from the glistening floe,
+  As it scorched and froze us through and through
+    With the bite of the drifting snow.
+
+(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by Wilson
+for the _South Polar Times_. Characteristically, he sent them in
+typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand and judge
+them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many of their readers
+confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's own premonition of
+the event. The version given is the final form, as it appeared
+in the _South Polar Times_.)
+
+The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the
+Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers
+28.
+
+[Page 374]
+After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally
+anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed.
+At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything was
+most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon
+they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose
+sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they
+camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott
+began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely believe
+that obstacles will not present themselves to make our task more
+difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to trouble us.'
+
+And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct, for
+a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a constant
+fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface was as bad as
+it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as they advanced,
+and late in the afternoon they encountered a very rough surface
+with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily the sledge showed no
+signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying to keep up a rate of
+a little over a mile and a quarter an hour was very great. However,
+they were cheered by the thought, when they reached Camp 58 (height
+10,320 feet), that they were very close to the 88th parallel, and
+a little more than 120 miles from the Pole.
+
+Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march on
+Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they advanced,
+and presently
+[Page 375]
+they found themselves in the midst of a sea of fishhook waves,
+well remembered from their Northern experience. And, to add to
+their trouble, each sastrugus was covered with a beard of sharp
+branching crystals. They took off their ski and pulled on foot,
+but both morning and afternoon the work of getting the sledge along
+was tremendous. Writing at Camp 59, Latitude 88° 7', Scott said, 'We
+think of leaving our ski here, mainly because of risk of breakage.
+Over the sastrugi it is all up and down hill, and the covering of
+ice crystals prevents the sledge from gliding even on the downgrade.
+The sastrugi, I fear, have come to stay, and we must be prepared
+for heavy marching, but in two days I hope to lighten loads with
+a depôt. We are south of Shackleton's last camp, so, I suppose,
+have made the most southerly camp.'
+
+During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that
+the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the
+sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched
+a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating
+the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion
+we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly.
+Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the
+sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched coating
+of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the shortest
+they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that if things
+remained for long they were, it would be impossible to keep up the
+[Page 376]
+strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however, loads were to
+be lightened on the following day by a weight of about 100 lbs.,
+and there was also hope of a better surface if only the crystal
+deposit would either harden up or disappear. Their food, too, was
+proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on such an excellent ration.
+We really are an excellently found party.' Indeed, apart from the
+strain of pulling, Scott's only anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was
+that Evans had a nasty cut on his hand.
+
+They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard;
+but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because
+he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance
+of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable bags
+within their double-walled tent would do none of them any harm. But,
+both on account of lost time and food and the slow accumulation
+of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay.
+
+'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting,
+'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office to
+the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to alleviate
+the small pains and troubles incidental to the work; now as cook,
+quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some fresh expedient
+to help the camp life; tough as steel on the traces, never wavering
+from start to finish.
+
+'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It
+is only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes
+and crampons have been
+[Page 377]
+absolutely indispensable, and if the original ideas were not his,
+the details of manufacture and design and the good workmanship
+are his alone. He is responsible for every sledge, every sledge
+fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and when one cannot recall
+a single expression of dissatisfaction with anyone of these items,
+it shows what an invaluable assistant he has been. Now, besides
+superintending the putting up of the tent, he thinks out and arranges
+the packing of the sledge; it is extraordinary how neatly and handily
+everything is stowed, and how much study has been given to preserving
+the suppleness and good running qualities of the machine. On the
+Barrier, before the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round,
+correcting faults of stowage.
+
+'Little Bowers remains a marvel--he is thoroughly enjoying himself.
+I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and at all
+times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning party
+should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute
+stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single
+mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the
+most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to this
+he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing comes
+amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty to get
+him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold, and he
+lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long after
+the others are asleep.
+
+'Of these three it is a matter for thought and
+[Page 378]
+congratulation that each is specially suited for his own work,
+but would not be capable of doing that of the others as well as
+it is done. Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period
+with the ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole
+time, does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as
+well as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So
+our five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible
+to imagine.'
+
+Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp,
+the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface
+good. So that they might keep up the average length of their daily
+marches Scott wanted to leave a depôt, but as the blizzard tended
+to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident that to
+leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding. However,
+after a terribly hard march on the following morning, they decided
+to leave a depôt at the lunch camp, and there they built a cairn
+and left one week's food with as many articles of clothing as they
+could possibly spare.
+
+Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface that
+was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow, and, when
+the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the slowest pace
+was distressingly difficult. On that night from Camp 62, Scott
+wrote, 'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but it's going to be
+a stiff pull _both ways_ apparently; still we do make progress,
+which is something.... It is very difficult to imagine what is
+[Page 379]
+happening to the weather.... The clouds don't seem to come from
+anywhere, form and disperse without visible reason.... The
+meteorological conditions seem to point to an area of variable light
+winds, and that plot will thicken as we advance.'
+
+From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling
+was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad
+as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and
+the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they
+had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves,
+and although when they camped for the night they were only about
+74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could
+possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes it out
+of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work before....
+Our chance still holds good if we can put the work in, but it's a
+terribly trying time.'
+
+For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the
+almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily. The
+experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for Scott had
+begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly weakening,
+and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted a good surface
+to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were within 63 miles
+of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface to help them
+on their way.
+
+But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do
+his work with characteristic
+[Page 380]
+thoroughness and imperturbability; and after this appalling march
+he insisted, in spite of Scott's protest, on taking sights after
+they had camped--an all the more remarkable display of energy as
+he, being the only one of the party who pulled on foot, had spent an
+even more strenuous day than the others, who had been 'comparatively
+restful on ski.'
+
+Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might
+to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and
+straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did
+manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which is
+very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski, though
+Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without tiring his
+short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at Camp 66 and
+less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the great difficulty
+on this march, because a light southerly wind with very low drift
+often prevented Scott from seeing anything, and Bowers, in Scott's
+shadow, gave directions. By this time the feet of the whole party
+were beginning, mainly owing to the bad condition of their finnesko,
+to suffer from the cold. 'Oates seems to be feeling the cold and
+fatigue more than the rest of us, but we are all very fit. It is
+a critical time, but we ought to pull through.... Oh! for a few
+fine days! So close it seems and only the weather to balk us.'
+
+Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they were
+all 'pretty well done' when
+[Page 381]
+they camped for lunch. There they decided to leave their last depôt,
+but although their reduced load was now very light, Scott feared
+that the friction would not be greatly reduced. A pleasant surprise,
+however, was in store for him, as after lunch the sledge ran very
+lightly, and a capital march was made. 'It is wonderful,' he wrote
+on that night (January 15), 'to think that two long marches would
+land us at the Pole. We left our depôt to-day with nine days'
+provisions, so that it ought to be a certain thing now, and the only
+appalling possibility the sight of the Norwegian flag forestalling
+ours. Little Bowers continues his indefatigable efforts to get
+good sights, and it is wonderful how he works them up in his
+sleeping-bag in our congested tent. Only 27 miles from the Pole.
+We _ought_ to do it now.'
+
+The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their
+noon sight showed them in Lat. 89° 42' S.; and feeling that the
+following day would see them at the Pole they started off after
+lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour
+or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn,
+but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a
+sastrugus.
+
+'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we knew
+that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched on, found
+that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near by the remains
+of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and coming and the
+clear trace of dogs' paws--many dogs.
+[Page 382]
+This told us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us
+and are first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and
+I am very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and
+much discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the
+Pole and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All
+the day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly
+also the Norwegians found an easy way up.'
+
+Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of this
+discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning (January
+17) head winds with a temperature of -22° added to their depression
+of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian tracks, and
+in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then, as the tracks
+became increasingly drifted up and were obviously leading them
+too far to the west, they decided to make straight for the Pole
+according to their calculations. During the march they covered
+about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his journal, 'The Pole.
+Yes, but under very different circumstances from those expected.'
+
+That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent
+to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they
+found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the
+purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not
+claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in
+estimating the honours that belong to them.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARTY AT THE SOUTH POLE. (Capt. Oates; Capt.
+Scott; P.O. Evans; Lieut. Bowers; Dr. Wilson.) _Photo by Lieut.
+H. R. Bowers._]
+
+[Page 383]
+'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and
+the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home and
+a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.'
+
+On the following morning after summing up all their observations,
+they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the
+Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction, more
+or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two miles
+from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found a record
+of five Norwegians having been there:
+
+  'Roald Amundsen
+   Olav Olavson Bjaaland
+   Hilmer Hanssen
+   Sverre H. Hassel
+   Oscar Wisting.
+                      --16 _Dec_. 1911.
+
+'The tent is fine--a small compact affair supported by a single
+bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward
+a letter to King Haakon!'
+
+In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags
+of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and
+sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian
+artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point thermometers,
+a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left a note to say I
+had visited the tent with companions. Bowers photographing and
+Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched 6.2 miles S.S.E.
+by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch gave us 1/2 to 3/4
+[Page 384]
+of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch
+-21°.) We built a cairn, put up our poor slighted Union Jack, and
+photographed ourselves--mighty cold work all of it--less than 1/2
+a mile south we saw stuck up an old underrunner of a sledge. This
+we commandeered as a yard for a floorcloth sail. I imagine it was
+intended to mark the exact spot of the Pole as near as the Norwegians
+could fix it. (Height 9,500.) A note attached talked of the tent
+as being 2 miles from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. There is
+no doubt that our predecessors have made thoroughly sure of their
+mark and fully carried out their program. I think the Pole is about
+9,500 feet in height; this is remarkable, considering that in Lat.
+88° we were about 10,500.
+
+'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and
+left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy
+the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on
+the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz.
+Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our
+ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging--and good-bye
+to most of the day-dreams!'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 385]
+CHAPTER X
+
+ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY
+
+  It matters not how strait the gate,
+    How charged with punishments the scroll;
+  I am the master of my fate,
+    I am the Captain of my soul.--HENLEY.
+
+During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole 7
+miles behind them, and early in the march on the following morning
+picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn. These tracks
+they followed until they came to the black flag that had been the
+first means of telling them of the Norwegians' success. 'We have
+picked this flag up, using the staff for our sail, and are now
+camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our tracks. So that is
+the last of the Norwegians for the present.'
+
+In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals they
+marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found the cairns
+that they had built; but until they reached Three Degree Depôt
+which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott said, could not be
+laid to rest.
+
+On the next day they reached their Southern
+[Page 386]
+Depôt and picked up four days' food. With the wind behind them and
+with full sail they went along at a splendid rate in the afternoon,
+until they were pulled up by a surface on which drifting snow was
+lying in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the ski, pulling
+became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad when Bowers gets
+his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3,[1] 'I'm afraid he must find these
+long marches very trying with short legs, but he is an undefeated
+little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling the cold and fatigue more
+than most of us. It is blowing pretty hard to-night, but with a
+good march we have earned one good hoosh and are very comfortable
+in the tent. It is everything now to keep up a good marching pace;
+I trust we shall be able to do so and catch the ship. Total march,
+18-1/2 miles.'
+
+[Footnote 1: A number preceded by R. marks the camps on the return
+journey.]
+
+A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning,
+but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for
+a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand
+and 45 miles between them and their next depôt, where they had
+left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three Degree
+Depôt. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought to have a day
+or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty with following
+the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight for our watches
+to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks at a pinch.'
+
+January 22 brought an added worry in the fact
+[Page 387]
+that the ski boots were beginning to show signs of wear, but this
+was nothing compared with the anxiety Scott began to feel about
+Evans on the following day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a
+good deal run down--his fingers are badly blistered and his nose
+is rather seriously congested with frequent frost-bites. He is
+very much annoyed with himself, which is not a good sign. I think
+Wilson, Bowers and I are as fit as possible under the circumstances.
+Oates gets cold feet.... We are only about 13 miles from our "Degree
+and half" Depôt and should get there tomorrow. The weather seems
+to be breaking up. Pray God we have something of a track to follow
+to the Three Degree Depôt--once we pick that up we ought to be
+right.'
+
+Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so,
+though only seven miles from their depôt, they were obliged to
+camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect
+of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey
+in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from
+frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from
+bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach the
+Half Degree Depôt, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision to carry
+them the next 89 miles.
+
+During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely
+wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile
+intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first
+far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of the
+second which was far on their
+[Page 388]
+left. 'There is not a sign of our tracks between these cairns,
+but the last, marking our night camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in
+the belt of hard sastrugi, and I was comforted to see signs of the
+track reappearing as we camped. I hope to goodness we can follow
+it to-morrow.'
+
+Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these
+hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on ski,
+the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow the
+track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the best
+could only just be seen.
+
+On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been
+compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the
+difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by
+hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and
+during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy
+and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march
+they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the
+air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose
+the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand,
+they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch,
+was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags,
+although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly
+but steadily getting wetter.
+
+On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles
+[Page 389]
+from their depôt with six days food in hand, after doing a good
+march of 16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds we shall
+get our depôt without trouble. I shall indeed be glad to get it
+on the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is no doubt. The
+lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are pretty thin,
+especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked out. I doubt
+if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going with our light
+one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall be glad to open
+out on it.
+
+With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding
+the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday their
+position had its serious as well as its bright side, for Wilson
+strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given pain
+all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of pluck
+over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident here. To add
+to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails to-night; his
+hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows signs of losing
+heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the accident.... We
+can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be] a mighty serious
+thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.'
+
+Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three
+Degree Depôt, and were able slightly to increase their rations,
+though not until they reached the pony food depôt could they look
+for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface, owing
+to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson
+[Page 390]
+walking by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling
+was even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they
+picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The last
+thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we have
+only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.'
+
+Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn,
+which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper
+Glacier Depôt. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that they
+would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance was having
+a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was better. On
+the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable anxiety.
+
+All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2 until
+Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same time on
+a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his shoulder.
+'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person added to our
+tent--three out of five injured, and the most troublesome surfaces to
+come. We shall be lucky if we get through without serious injury....
+The extra food is certainly helping us, but we are getting pretty
+hungry.... It is time we were off the summit--Pray God another four
+days will see us pretty well clear of it. Our bags are getting
+very wet and we ought to have more sleep.'
+
+On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so of
+the Upper Glacier Depôt under Mount Darwin, and after exasperating
+delays in searching for
+[Page 391]
+tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste no more time, but to
+push due north just as fast as they could. Evans' fingers were
+still very bad, and there was little hope that he would be able
+for some time to help properly with the work, and on the following
+day an accident that entailed the most serious consequences happened.
+
+'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell into
+crevasses, Evans and I together--a second fall for Evans,[1] and I
+camped. After lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on ski over
+hard shiny descending surface. Did very well, especially towards
+end of march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not improving
+in condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather dull and
+incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal, but we
+get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of energy
+and bustle all the time.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans injured
+his brain by one of these falls.]
+
+On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made,
+but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them. Huge
+pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred their way,
+and so they had to steer more and more to the west on a very erratic
+course. Camping-time found them still in a very disturbed region,
+and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of their depôt there
+seemed to be no way through the disturbances that continued to
+block their path. On turning out to continue their march they went
+straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at once
+[Page 392]
+found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these they turned
+northwards between two of them, with the result that they got into
+chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled to retrace
+their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the west they
+got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of which they
+camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended them in the
+afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated that they
+were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier Depôt. 'Food
+is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that many hours of the
+day were anxious; but this evening (February 6), though we are not
+so far advanced as I expected, the outlook is much more promising.
+Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts and wounds suppurate, his
+nose looks very bad, and altogether he shows considerable signs
+of being played out. Things may mend for him on the Glacier, and
+his wounds get some respite under warmer conditions. I am indeed
+glad to think we shall so soon have done with plateau conditions.
+It took us 27 days to reach the Pole and 21 days back--in all 48
+days--nearly 7 weeks in low temperature with almost incessant wind.'
+
+February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey, opened
+with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces covered
+with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress during
+the day, and between six and seven o'clock their depôt was sighted
+and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,' Scott
+wrote at R. 21,
+[Page 393]
+'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp journey and most of
+us are fit, but I think another week might have had a very bad
+effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily downhill.'
+
+On the next morning they started late owing to various re-arrangements
+having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin to get specimens.
+As Wilson was still unable to use his ski, Bowers went on and got
+several specimens of much the same type--a close-grained granite
+rock which weathers red; and as soon as Bowers had rejoined the
+party they skidded downhill fairly fast, Scott and Bowers (the
+leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on foot alongside the sledge,
+while Evans was detached.
+
+By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided
+to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some very
+irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down towards
+the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so interesting
+that, after an advance of some miles had brought escape from the
+wind, the decision was made to camp and spend the rest of the day
+in geologising.
+
+'It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under
+perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly and
+carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with his sharp
+eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last a piece of coal
+with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also some excellently
+preserved impressions of thick stems,
+[Page 394]
+showing cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small
+waves in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone
+with archeo-cyathus--the trouble is one cannot imagine where the
+stone comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur in
+the moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether
+we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being
+out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I
+hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions
+are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of
+setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly
+7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a sea
+voyage.'
+
+On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine
+to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson
+had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone.
+The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the
+Beardmore Glacier, and the labour endured in dragging the additional
+35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay;
+but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it.
+The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous
+that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved
+to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to
+solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this
+portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult
+day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for
+[Page 395]
+being too tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter
+had been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed.
+'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food satisfies
+now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and we want rest,
+yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are by no means worn
+out.'
+
+On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep
+that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great
+change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress,
+however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow,
+which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We
+have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening,
+'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within
+two outward marches from the middle glacier depôt. However, if the
+weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march blindly
+on or reduce food.'
+
+The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the
+surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until,
+with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found themselves
+in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to steer east, and
+after struggling on for several hours found themselves in a regular
+trap. Having for a short time in the earlier part of the day got
+on to a good surface, they thought that all was going well and
+did not reduce their lunch rations. But half an hour after lunch
+they suddenly got into a terrible ice mess.
+
+[Page 396]
+For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that
+they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left;
+meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were moments
+when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the awful turmoil
+in which they found themselves. At length, arguing that there must
+be a way out on the left, they plunged in that direction, only
+to find that the surface was more icy and crevassed.
+
+'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into crevasses
+every minute--most luckily no bad accident. At length we saw a
+smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but knew it was
+a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in character,
+irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, closely
+packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy work, but we
+had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and I write after
+12 hours on the march. I _think_ we are on or about the right track
+now, but we are still a good number of miles from the depôt, so
+we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican meals left and
+decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch must serve for
+two if we do not make big progress. It was a test of our endurance
+on the march and our fitness with small supper. We have come through
+well.'
+
+On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well
+in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two
+hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night
+[Page 397]
+camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their depôt), for
+this showed them that they were still on the right track. In the
+afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently expecting
+to reach their depôt, but by a most unfortunate chance they kept too
+far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses and fissures.
+Afterwards their course became very erratic, and finally, at 9
+P.M., they landed in the worst place of all.
+
+'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a
+very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; the
+depôt doubtful in locality. We _must_ get there to-morrow. Meanwhile
+we are cheerful with an effort.'
+
+On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept well
+in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by his visits
+outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over and snow beginning
+to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting up the weather was so
+thick that they had to remain in their sleeping-bags; but presently
+the weather cleared enough for Scott dimly to see the land of the
+Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after breakfasting off some tea
+and one biscuit, so that they might leave their scanty remaining
+meal for even greater emergencies, they started to march through
+an awful turmoil of broken ice. In about an hour, however, they
+hit upon an old moraine track where the surface was much smoother,
+though the fog that was still hanging over everything added to
+their difficulties.
+[Page 398]
+Presently Evans raised their hopes with a shout of depôt ahead, but
+it proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson
+suddenly saw the actual depôt flag. 'It was an immense relief, and
+we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief to
+all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a meal.'
+
+Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and closed
+the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where Wilson
+detached himself and made a collection, while the others advanced
+with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February 13) at 'Camp
+R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped late, abreast the
+lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our usual satisfying
+supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of the trip and gave a
+horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are right, but we must march.
+In future food must be worked so that we do not run so short if the
+weather fails us. We mustn't get into a hole like this again....
+Bowers has had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, and Wilson
+another almost as bad. Evans has no power to assist with camping
+work.'
+
+A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days'
+food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Depôt.
+On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned about
+the condition of the party, and especially about Evans, who seemed
+to be going from bad to worse.
+[Page 399]
+And on the next evening, after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't
+know our distance from the depôt, but imagine about 20 miles. We
+are pulling for food and not very strong evidently.... We have
+reduced food, also sleep; feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days
+or 2 at most will see us at depôt.'
+
+Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their depôt,
+and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety
+about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly
+broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from his
+normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he stopped
+the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold the events
+of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. Perhaps all
+will be well if we can get to our depôt to-morrow fairly early,
+but it is anxious work with the sick man.'
+
+On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a
+little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did,
+that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in
+his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had
+to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft
+snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners at
+every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the land
+hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up again,
+but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again on the
+same plea, and asked Bowers to lend
+[Page 400]
+him a piece of string. Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly
+as he could, and he gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then
+the others were compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument
+Rock they halted and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to
+camp for lunch.
+
+At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch
+and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and all
+four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to meet the
+poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and frost-bitten
+and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was the matter, he
+replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought that he must have
+fainted.
+
+They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps
+he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse.
+Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while
+Oates remained with him.
+
+'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we got
+him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 401]
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THE LAST MARCH
+
+  Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion
+  through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who,
+  over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed
+  difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction,
+  arrogance or dishonour to the victory proposed, or to the higher
+  glory of unshaken defeat.--R. KIPLING.
+
+After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on
+later in the night, and arrived at their depôt; there they allowed
+themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles Camp,
+which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty of
+horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come if
+they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come with
+greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the Barrier
+surfaces.'
+
+A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had
+to be done in shifting sledges[1] and fitting up the new one with
+a mast, &c., and in packing
+[Page 402]
+horse meat and personal effects. Soon after noon, however, they
+got away, and found the surface every bit as bad as they expected.
+Moreover Scott's fears that there would not be much change during
+the next few days were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday
+afternoon they had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled
+desert sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following
+day, when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached
+Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony meat,
+but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,' Scott
+wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily followed
+this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope for better
+things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better traveling as
+we are not so fit as we were, and the season is advancing apace.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Sledges were left at the chief depôts to replace damaged
+ones.]
+
+Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and
+once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away from
+the land the conditions might get better; and that this improvement
+should come and come soon was all the more necessary because they
+were approaching a critical part of their journey, in which there
+were long distances between the cairns. 'If we can tide that over
+we get on the regular cairn route, and with luck should stick to
+it; but everything depends on the weather. We never won a march
+of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but we can't go on like
+this.'
+
+[Page 403]
+Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so completely
+wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow during the next
+stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time came without a
+sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later in the day Bowers,
+feeling sure that they were too far to the west, steered out, with
+the result that another pony camp was passed by unseen. 'There is
+little doubt we are in for a rotten critical time going home, and
+the lateness of the season may make it really serious.... Looking
+at the map to-night there is no doubt we are too far to the east.
+With clear weather we ought to be able to correct the mistake, but
+will the weather clear? It's a gloomy position, more especially as
+one sees the same difficulty recurring even when we have corrected
+this error. The wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in
+the south, which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note
+that such untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.'
+
+The hopes of better weather were realized during the following
+day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind.
+Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers took
+a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came to
+the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside the
+tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them were
+happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out. Then,
+just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully
+[Page 404]
+sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite
+telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles
+of their depôt. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather, we
+cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved....
+Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of cairns,
+with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of Saturday,
+February 24, the depôt was reached, and there they found the store
+in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall have to be _very_
+saving with fuel.'
+
+[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in want
+of more oil than they found at the depôts. Owing partly to the
+severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by their
+sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed for
+between the depôts. The cold was unexpected, and at the same time
+the actual amount of oil found at the depôts was less than Scott
+anticipated.
+
+The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for the
+party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days on the
+outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree to
+Upper Glacier Depôt, took nearly eight marches as against ten,
+and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans
+and Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the
+Lower Glacier Depôt there was little gain on the outward journey,
+partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual collapse.
+And from that time onward the marches
+[Page 405]
+of the weary but heroic travelers became shorter and shorter.
+
+As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the depôts
+had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. The oil
+in the warmth of the sun--for the tins were regularly set in an
+accessible place on the top of the cairns--tended to become vapour
+and to escape through the stoppers without damage to the tins.
+This process was much hastened owing to the leather washers about
+the stoppers having perished in the great cold.
+
+The tins awaiting the Southern party at the depôts had, of course,
+been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way back could
+take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were re-stoppered,
+they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation and leakage,
+and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the shortage which
+was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.]
+
+Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at
+the depôt, and with ten full days' provisions from the night of the
+24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the Mid-Barrier
+depôt. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful tone, 'It is an
+immense relief to have picked up this depôt, and, for the time,
+anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night, after pulling on a dreadful
+surface and only gaining four miles, he added, 'It really will
+be a bad business if we are to have this plodding all through. I
+don't know what to think, but the rapid closing
+[Page 406]
+of the season is ominous.... It is a race between the season and
+hard conditions and our fitness and good food.'
+
+Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the following
+day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The first double
+figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But what they wanted
+and what would not come was a wind to help them on their way.
+Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely needed was
+still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on their next march,
+and were within 43 miles of their next depôt. Writing from 'R. 40.
+Temp. -21°' on Monday night, February 26, Scott said, 'Wonderfully
+fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing dries and we get our
+feet cold too often. We want more food yet, and especially more
+fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely hope to get a better
+surface at this season, but I wish we could have some help from
+the wind, though it might shake us up badly if the temp. didn't
+rise.'
+
+Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their depôt, but hunger
+was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else
+except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the
+dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety
+at next depôt, but there is a horrid element of doubt.'
+
+On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at R.
+42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a blightingly
+cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The temperatures,
+[Page 407]
+however, which varied at this time between -30° and -42°, were
+chilling them through and through, and to get their foot-gear on in
+the mornings was both a painful and a long task. 'Frightfully cold
+starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time on Thursday, February 29,
+'luckily Bowers and Oates in their last new finnesko; keeping my
+old ones for the present.... Next camp is our depôt and it is exactly
+13 miles. It ought not to take more than 1-1/2 days; we pray for
+another fine one. The oil will just about spin out in that event,
+and we arrive a clear day's food in hand.'
+
+On reaching the Middle Barrier Depôt, however, blow followed blow
+in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began to
+sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First they
+found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy it
+could scarcely carry them on to their next depôt, 71 miles away.
+Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently frost-bitten
+by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed. And lastly
+the wind, which at first they had greeted with some joy, brought
+dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the temperature
+fell to below -40°, and on the next morning an hour and a half
+was spent before they could get on their foot-gear. 'Then on an
+appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks, and at lunch
+Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer street since
+there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches and feel the cold
+horribly.'
+
+Afterwards they managed to pick up the track
+[Page 408]
+again, and with a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects
+brightened a little; but on the next morning they had to labour
+upon a surface that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals,
+which were too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused
+impossible friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,'
+Scott wrote at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is
+certain. Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what
+each man feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear
+in the morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day
+more dangerous.'
+
+No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday, March
+4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except a strong
+drying wind, which at that time of the year was not likely to come.
+At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the next depôt and had a
+week's food; but in spite of the utmost economy their oil could
+only last three or four days, and to pull as they were doing and
+be short of food at the same time was an absolute impossibility.
+For the time being the temperature had risen to -20°, but Scott
+was sure that this small improvement was only temporary and feared
+that Oates, at any rate, was in no state to weather more severe cold
+than they were enduring. And hanging over all the other misfortunes
+was the constant fear that if they did get to the next depôt they
+might find the same shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I should do
+if Wilson and Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful over things.'
+
+[Page 409]
+And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic
+to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed
+such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March 4)
+consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid with
+the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,' Scott
+says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable resolution
+it is contained in that short sentence. The result, however, was
+telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially upon Oates,
+whose feet were in a terrible condition when they started to march
+on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them within 27 miles of
+their next supply of food and fuel, but by this time poor Oates
+was almost done.
+
+'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more
+hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none
+of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest
+of us Wilson is feeling them most; mainly, I fear, from his
+self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot help
+each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself. We get
+cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the wind pierces
+our worn garments. The others, all of them, are unendingly cheerful
+when in the tent. We mean to see the game through with a proper
+spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling harder than we ever pulled
+in our lives for long hours, and to feel that the progress is so slow.
+One can only say "God help us!" and plod on our weary way, cold and
+[Page 410]
+very miserable, though outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts
+of subjects in the tent, not much of food now, since we decided
+to take the risk of running a full ration. We simply couldn't go
+hungry at this time.'
+
+On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and
+the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate work,
+were only three and a half, and the total distance for the day
+was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis was near
+at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only come up in
+spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent.... If we were all
+fit I should have hopes of getting through, but the poor Soldier
+has become a terrible hindrance, though he does his utmost and
+suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th, Scott added, 'A
+little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet _very_ bad this morning;
+he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what we will do together
+at home.'
+
+At this time they were 16 miles from their depôt, and if they found
+the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the surface
+helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the Mt. Hooper
+Depôt, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp. 'We hope against
+hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper; then we might pull
+through.... We are only kept going by good food. No wind this morning
+till a chill northerly air came ahead. Sun bright and cairns showing
+up well. I should like to keep the track to the end.'
+
+Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time
+[Page 411]
+on the 8th to within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time
+spent over foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer.
+'Have to wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start
+changing, and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet
+giving trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help
+to others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the
+depôt? If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good distance,
+but if there is another short allowance of fuel, God help us indeed.
+We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.'
+
+On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper
+Depôt. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round. I don't
+know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have been our
+salvation have evidently failed.'
+
+[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting
+with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return to
+Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and calculating
+from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson expected him to
+reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There Cherry-Garrard
+met four days of blizzard, with the result that when the weather
+cleared he had little more than enough dog food to take the teams
+home. Under these circumstances only two possible courses were
+open to him, either to push south for one more march and back with
+imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to stay two days
+at the Camp where Scott was bound to come,
+[Page 412]
+if he came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at
+One Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.]
+
+With the depôt reached and no relief to the situation gained, Scott
+was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily downhill,' but
+for the time being Oates' condition was by far the most absorbing
+trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th. 'He has rare
+pluck and must know that he can never get through. He asked Wilson
+if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill had to say he
+didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart from him, if he
+went under now, I doubt whether we could get through. With great
+care we might have a dog's chance, but no more.... Poor chap! it
+is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot but try to cheer him up.'
+
+On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for
+half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face
+such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following
+morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast
+that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks. At
+the most they gained little more than six miles during the day,
+and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if they
+got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and should
+be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42, leaving
+us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get no worse.'
+
+Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or
+he will do, God only knows. We
+[Page 413]
+discussed the matter after breakfast; he is a brave fine fellow
+and understands the situation, but he practically asked for advice.
+Nothing could be said but to urge him to march as long as he could.
+One satisfactory result to the discussion: I practically ordered
+Wilson to hand over the means of ending our troubles to us, so
+that any of us may know how to do so. Wilson had no choice between
+doing so and our ransacking the medicine case.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and
+more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them
+altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they
+started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through
+their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold,
+could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made
+camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly
+cold.... We _must_ go on, but now the making of every camp must
+be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, but a
+pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be like
+to-morrow.'
+
+Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once spared
+himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing could be
+more pathetic and significant than the fact that at last he was
+unable any longer to keep a daily record of this magnificent journey.
+
+'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think
+the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most
+[Page 414]
+unendurable conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable
+tribute to his dead companion.
+
+'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday,
+poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should
+leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced
+him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful nature
+for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night he was
+worse and we knew the end had come.
+
+'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last
+thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride
+in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold way
+in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. He has
+borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and to the
+very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. He
+did not--would not--give up hope till the very end. He was a brave
+soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before last,
+hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning--yesterday. It was
+blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and may be
+some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not seen
+him since.
+
+'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick
+companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely
+out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder
+seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully removed
+him at this critical moment. He died
+[Page 415]
+a natural death, and we did not leave him till two hours after his
+death.
+
+'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though we
+tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man and
+an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a similar
+spirit, and assuredly the end is not far.
+
+'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold is
+intense, -40° at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful,
+but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we
+constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us
+believes it in his heart.
+
+'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. Yesterday
+we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move dreadfully slowly.
+We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony marches from One Ton Depôt.
+We leave here our theodolite, a camera, and Oates' sleeping-bags.
+Diaries, etc., and geological specimens carried at Wilson's special
+request, will be found with us or on our sledge.'
+
+At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within
+21 miles of One Ton Depôt, but wind and drift came on and they had
+to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and we are
+worn out _nearly_.
+
+'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes--two days ago I was
+the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of my downfall.
+Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with my melted
+pemmican--it
+[Page 416]
+gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake and in pain all night;
+woke and felt done on the march; foot went and I didn't know it. A
+very small measure of neglect and have a foot which is not pleasant
+to contemplate.
+
+'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much to
+choose after all. The others are still confident of getting through--or
+pretend to be--I don't know! We have the last _half_ fill of oil in
+our primus and a very small quantity of spirit--this alone between
+us and thirst.'
+
+On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but after
+a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin of cocoa,
+they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough to get some
+sleep.
+
+Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against
+persistent misfortune.
+
+'_March_ 19.--Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging manner.
+Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the depôt and
+ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two days'
+food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting bad--Wilson's
+best, my right foot worst, left all right. There is no chance to
+nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us. Amputation is
+the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble spread? That
+is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us a chance;
+the wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 417]
+During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton
+Depôt, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday a
+severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott wrote:
+'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depôt for fuel.'
+
+But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23. Blizzard
+bad as ever--Wilson and Bowers unable to start--to-morrow last
+chance--no fuel and only one or two of food left--must be near
+the end. Have decided it shall be natural--we shall march for the
+depôt with or without our effects and die in our tracks.'
+
+'_March_ 29.--Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale from
+W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece, and
+bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been ready
+to start for our depôt 11 _miles_ away, but outside the door of
+the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do not think we
+can hope for any better things now. We shall stick it out to the
+end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot be
+far.
+
+'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more.
+
+                                   'R. SCOTT.
+
+'Last entry For God's sake look after our people.'
+
+[Page 418]
+After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on March
+16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson and
+Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When, however,
+this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to be done until
+the winter was over.
+
+During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party devolved
+upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances showed qualities
+that are beyond all praise. At the earliest possible moment (October
+30) a large party started south. 'On the night of the 11th and
+morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says, 'after we had marched 11 miles
+due south of One Ton, we found the tent. It was an object partially
+snowed up and looking like a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks
+and in front of them a bamboo which probably was the mast of the
+sledge...
+
+'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson,
+and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it
+had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.'
+
+Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their
+sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally close
+them.
+
+[Illustration: 'THE LAST REST'. The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr. Wilson,
+and Lieut. Bowers. _Photo by Lieut. T. Gran._]
+
+Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag
+and opened his coat. The little wallet
+[Page 419]
+containing the three notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm
+flung across Wilson.
+
+Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological
+specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore
+Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the
+very end, though disaster stared them in the face.
+
+'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the
+outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well
+into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.'
+
+Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed, and
+on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in the snow.
+Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was placed, containing
+a metal cylinder, and in this the following record was left:
+
+'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross
+and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O.,
+R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant H.
+R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine--a slight token to perpetuate their
+successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This they did
+on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition had already
+done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was the cause of their
+death. Also to commemorate their two gallant comrades, Captain L.
+E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons, who walked to his death
+[Page 420]
+in a blizzard to save his comrades about eighteen miles south of
+this position; also of Seaman Edgar Evans, who died at the foot of
+the Beardmore Glacier.
+
+'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away; blessed be the name of
+the Lord."'
+
+[Page 421]
+With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:--
+
+
+_To Mrs. E. A. Wilson_
+
+My DEAR MRS. WILSON,
+
+If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together.
+We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid
+he was at the end--everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice
+himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him
+into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor
+discomforts.
+
+His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is peaceful
+with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself as part of
+the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to comfort you
+than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, true man--the
+best of comrades and staunchest of friends.
+
+My whole heart goes out to you in pity.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+_To Mrs. Bowers_
+
+My DEAR MRS. BOWERS,
+
+I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows
+of your life.
+
+I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am
+finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of
+these is your son. He
+[Page 422]
+had come be one of my closest and soundest friends, and I appreciate
+his wonderful upright nature, his ability and energy. As the troubles
+have thickened his dauntless spirit ever shone brighter and he has
+remained cheerful, hopeful, and indomitable to the end.
+
+The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some reason
+why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken.
+
+My whole heart goes out in pity for you.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what a
+happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look back
+on nothing but happiness.
+
+He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the
+end, believing in God's mercy to you.
+
+
+_To Sir J. M. Barrie_
+
+My DEAR BARRIE,
+
+We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter
+may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell.... More
+practically I want you to help my widow and my boy--your godson.
+We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold spirit,
+fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have accomplished
+our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have done everything
+[Page 423]
+possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to save sick
+companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen of the
+future, and that the country ought to help those who are left behind
+to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson, Wilson leaves
+a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble circumstances. Do
+what you can to get their claims recognized. Goodbye. I am not
+at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many a humble pleasure
+which I had planned for the future on our long marches. I may not
+have proved a great explorer, but we have done the greatest march
+ever made and come very near to great success. Goodbye, my dear
+friend.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long
+way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent,
+to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will
+do when we get to Hut Point.
+
+_Later_.--We are very near the end, but have not and will not lose
+our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our tent and no where's
+food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves when things proved
+like this, but we have decided to die naturally in the track.
+
+As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. Give
+the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought to have
+good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom I admired and
+[Page 424]
+loved more than you, but I never could show you how much your friendship
+meant to me, for you had much to give and I nothing.
+
+
+_To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart._
+
+Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5°.
+
+My DEAR SIR EDGAR,
+
+I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves
+the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and
+we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave
+behind.
+
+I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your
+generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we stuck
+by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the end. I
+think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power to
+endure has not passed out of our race....
+
+Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself
+again and again to the sick men of the party....
+
+I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some
+time after we are found next year.
+
+We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it,
+but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is
+to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we
+have lacked support.
+
+Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife.
+
+  Yours ever sincerely,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+[Page 425]
+_To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B._
+
+My DEAR SIR FRANCIS,
+
+I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few letters
+which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank you for
+the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you how
+extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I want to
+tell you that I was _not_ too old for this job. It was the younger
+men that went under first.... After all we are setting a good example
+to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight place, by facing
+it like men when we were there. We could have come through had
+we neglected the sick.
+
+Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+Excuse writing--it is -40°; and has been for nigh a month.
+
+
+_To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B._
+
+My DEAR SIR GEORGE,
+
+I fear we have shot our bolt--but we have been to Pole and done
+the longest journey on record.
+
+I hope these letters may find their destination some day.
+
+Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness
+of different members of the party, but
+[Page 426]
+the real thing that has stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected
+cold towards the end of the journey.
+
+This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe
+as any experience we had on the summit.
+
+There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my
+calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the
+base and petering out.
+
+Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty
+is concerned.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your
+kindness.
+
+
+_To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch._
+
+March 24th, 1912.
+
+MY DEAR KINSEY,
+
+I'm afraid we are pretty well done--four days of blizzard just
+as we were getting to the last dopôt. My thoughts have been with
+you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition
+through, I'm sure.
+
+My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can for
+them if the country won't.
+
+I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know
+the circumstances well enough.
+
+If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have little
+to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country need
+not be ashamed of us--our
+[Page 427]
+journey has been the biggest on record, and nothing but the most
+exceptional hard luck at the end would have caused us to fail to
+return. We have been to the S. pole as we set out. God bless you
+and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is good to remember you and your kindness.
+
+  Your friend,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William
+Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs.
+Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following extracts:
+
+The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow
+to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort
+in that I die at peace with the world and myself--not afraid.
+
+Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks I
+have taken never seemed excessive.
+
+...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a
+narrow margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a
+journey.... After all, we have given our lives for our country--we
+have actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been
+the first Englishmen at the South Pole.
+
+You must understand that it is too cold to write much.
+
+...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right.
+
+[Page 428]
+I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh from
+harness and full of good health and vigour. This is decided
+already--when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless we
+are within easy distance of another depôt. Therefore you must not
+imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course, and have
+been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and our appetites
+compensate for all discomfort.
+
+Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depôt, with
+one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got through
+but have been held for _four_ days by a frightful storm. I think
+the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill ourselves,
+but to fight to the last for that depôt, but in the fighting there
+is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable must be faced.
+You urged me to be leader of this party, and I know you felt it
+would be dangerous.
+
+Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is better
+than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know you will
+keep him in the open air.
+
+Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence.
+Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous
+as you know--had always an inclination to be idle.
+
+There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole in
+my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and other
+trifles. Send a small
+[Page 429]
+piece of the Union Jack to the King and a small piece to Queen
+Alexandra.
+
+What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much better
+has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. What tales
+you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay.
+
+Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his
+putting me in command of the _Discovery_.
+
+[Page 430]
+MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC
+
+The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization, but
+to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken.
+
+1. The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start
+   later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff
+   transported to be narrowed.
+
+2. The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially
+   the long gale in 83° S., stopped us.
+
+3. The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace.
+
+We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but it
+cut into our provision reserve.
+
+Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depôts made on
+the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles
+to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party
+would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus
+of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had
+least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man
+of the party.
+
+The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on
+our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this with
+a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties.
+
+As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and Edgar
+Evans received a concussion of
+[Page 431]
+the brain--he died a natural death, but left us a shaken party with
+the season unduly advanced.
+
+But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise
+which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements
+for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world would
+have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we encountered at
+this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85°, 86° we had -20°,
+-30°. On the Barrier in lat. 82°, 10,000 feet lower, we had -30° in
+the day, -47° at night pretty regularly, with continuous head wind
+during our day marches. It is clear that these circumstances come on
+very suddenly, and our wreck is certainly due to this sudden advent
+of severe weather, which does not seem to have any satisfactory
+cause. I do not think human beings ever came through such a month
+as we have come through, and we should have got through in spite
+of the weather but for the sickening of a second companion, Captain
+Oates, and a shortage of fuel in our depôts for which I cannot
+account, and finally, but for the storm which has fallen on us
+within 11 miles of the depôt at which we hoped to secure our final
+supplies. Surely misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last
+blow. We arrived within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel
+for one last meal and food for two days. For four days we have been
+unable to leave the tent--the gale howling about us. We are weak,
+writing is difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this
+[Page 432]
+journey, which has shewn that Englishmen can endure hardships, help
+one another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the
+past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out
+against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but bow to
+the will of Providence, determined still to do our best to the last.
+But if we have been willing to give our lives to this enterprise,
+which is for the honour of our country, I appeal to our countrymen
+to see that those who depend on us are properly cared for.
+
+Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood,
+endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the
+heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must
+tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours
+will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided
+for.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+[Illustration: British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart
+of main southern journey.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Abbott, George P., P.O. 209, 242, 260
+Adélie Land 35
+Admiralty, the, 8, 18, 182-3, 200, 206
+Alaska 11
+_Albemarle_, H.M.S., 206
+Albert Medal, the, 372
+Alexandra, Queen, 31, 429
+Alpine Rope, 256-7, 266, 274, 367
+_Amphion_, H.M.S., 11
+Amundsen, Roald, 259-60, 301, 324, 346, 383, 428
+Anton, Groom, 209, 276, 278, 280, 285, 289, 299
+Archer, W. W., chief steward, 209
+Armitage, Lieut. A. B., 25, 32, 43, 57, 63, 89, 97, 103, 105, 138,
+  153-4, 176, 178
+Arnold, M., _quoted_, 151, 178
+Arrival Bay, 60
+  Heights, 60, 234
+Athletic sports, 137-8
+Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist, 208, 213, 224,
+  236, 243, 259, 261, 267, 270, 273, 279-80, 284, 285-6, 295
+  _seq._, 308, 319, 320-1, 327, 329, 330, 336, 340, 344, 354-5,
+  362-3, 372, 411, 418-19
+Auckland Islands, 195
+Australia, Government of, 207
+
+Balaclave helmets, 251
+Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J., 16
+Balleny, Capt. John, 197
+  Islands, 196-7
+Balloons, ascents of, 57, 281
+Barne, Lieut. Michael, 26, 32, 43, 53, 61, _seq._, 80, 87,
+  98-9, 100, 104, 106, 108, 131-2, 147, 149, 152, 155, 176
+  Glacier, 275
+Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to, 422-4
+Barrier, Great Ice, 53, _seq._, 90, 176, 203, 222, 224-5, 241,
+  243, 246, 260 _seq._, 294, 304, 305, 321, 377
+Bay of Whales, 259-60
+Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis, 427
+Beppo, pony, 7
+Berlin, 17, 20
+Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist, 27, 43, 53, 75, 85-6, 135, 147, 152, 176
+Birdie, dog, 108-9, 126
+Birthday, celebrations of, 286-7
+Biscay, Bay of, 32
+Bismarck, dog, 108
+Bjaaland, Olav Olavson, 383
+Blanco, dog, 108
+Blissett, A. H., 132
+_Blizzard, The_, 80
+Blossom, pony, 250
+Blucher, pony, 248, 250, 258
+Bluff, The, 130
+  Camp, 250, 336
+Boats, mishap to, 84, 85, 139, 140
+Bones, pony, 299, 308
+Bonner, Charles, 38-9
+Borchgrevink, 43
+Boss, dog, 108
+Bowers, Lieut. H. R., 28, 208, 216, 224, 230-1, 234-236, 243, 247,
+  249, 250-4, 261-7, 270, 273, 275, 278-81, 283-4, 286, 289, 293-5,
+  299, 300-8, 311-14, 317, 319, 320, 322, 324-5, 334, 343-5, 352,
+  354, 357-8, 359, 364, 368, 371, 373 _seq._
+Bowers, Mrs., letter to, 421-2
+Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to, 425
+_Britannia, The_, 6
+British Museum, the, 19
+Brownie, dog, 100, 108-9
+Browning, E. B., _quoted_, 328
+Browning, Frank V., P.O., 209, 242
+Bruce, Canon Lloyd, 207
+Bruce, Kathleen, 207
+Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M., 209, 224
+Buckingham Palace Road, 15
+_Bulwark_, H.M.S., 206
+Burlington House, 19
+Butter Point, 157, 260, 314
+
+Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A., 208, 216, 224, 226, 229, 232, 233,
+  238, 240-1, 242, 259-60, 292, 315
+Cape Adare, 42, 43, 45, 141
+  Armitage, 59, 225, 259, 263
+  Bernacchi, 315
+  Bird, 225
+  Crozier, 52, 61, 64, 69, 70, 105, 137, 141-2, 155-6, 176, 222-3, 281
+  Crozier Party, 294, 300-7, 317
+  Evans, 225, 234-5, 239, 246, 260, 268, 271-3, 280, 300, 316-17, 321,
+    328, 365
+  Jones, 48
+  Mackay, 301
+  North, 146, 189, 196, 198, 260
+  of Good Hope, 32-3
+  Royds, 180, 185, 286
+  Sibbald, 49
+  Wadworth, 47
+  Washington, 49, 52
+Cardiff, 207, 211
+Castle Rock, 60, 62, 64, 65, 262, 273
+Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain, 209
+Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist, 224, 236, 243, 251-2,
+  254-6, 257-8, 261-6, 270-1, 273, 279-81, 284, 288, 294, 300-7, 308,
+  318, 323, 329, 334, 340, 342, 344, 347, 352, 354, 362, 364, 411-12,
+  418
+Chinaman, pony, 308, 318, 329-30, 332-3, 336, 338-9, 340-41
+Christiania, 89
+Christopher, pony, 308-9, 318-19, 320, 329, 333, 336, 342
+Clarke, Charles, ship's cook, 179
+Clissold, Thomas, cook, 209, 276, 278, 280, 286, 289, 296, 319, 329
+Coal, 46, 189, 194, 216, 218-19, 220
+Colbeck, Captain William, 141-2, 143, 147, 182-3, 185, 194, 198
+Coleridge, _quoted_, 211
+Colville, Rear-Admiral, 206
+Commonwealth Range, 357
+Cook, Capt. James, 31
+Corner Camp, 247, 261, 263, 270, 312, 314, 317, 372
+Coulman Islands, 46, 47, 141
+Crater Heights, 60, 234
+  Hill, 60, 69, 88
+Crean, Thomas, P.O., 209, 237, 243, 259, 261, 262-5, 270, 273,
+  278-80, 285, 296, 299, 308, 318, 321, 323, 344, 354, 364, 370-2
+Cross, Jacob, P.O., 48, 103, 155-6
+'Cruise of the _Beagle_,' 162
+Cuts, pony, 262, 264
+
+Dailey, F. E., carpenter, 59, 153, 157
+Darwin, Charles, 162
+Day, Bernard C., motor engineer, 208, 227, 236, 276-7, 279, 290-1,
+  299, 318, 321, 323, 329, 330-1, 339, 340
+Debenham, Frank, geologist, 208, 236, 242, 270, 273, 281-2, 283,
+  296, 325-6, 327
+Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer, 138
+  Islets, 178
+Demetri, dog driver, 209, 276, 278-9, 289, 311, 329, 333, 354,
+  356, 372, 411, 418
+Dennistoun, James R., 209
+Depôt Nunatak, 171
+Desolation Camp, _Discovery_ Expedition, 163, 172
+  Last Expedition, 402
+Dickason, Harry, A.B., 209, 242
+_Discovery_, the fifth, 21
+Dog food, 109
+Dogs, 59, 71-2, 95-7, 107 _seq._, 212-13, 218, 226, 228, 239,
+  241, 243 _seq._, 270, 278, 285-6, 311, 329, 333 _seq._,
+  411
+Douglas, Sir Archibald, 18
+Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster, 209, 224
+Dundee, 19, 20, 23
+  Shipbuilding Company, 17
+
+East India Docks, 20
+Edward VII, King, 31
+Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B., 15, 81, 206, 425-6 (letter to)
+Enderby Quadrant, 29
+Entertainments, 85, 86, 87
+Erebus Tongue, 315
+Esquimault. B.C., 11
+Esquimaux, 301, 307
+Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R., 208, 215, 223-5, 232, 236, 242-3, 250,
+  258, 262, 311, 314, 317, 330-1, 337-40, 344, 354-5, 357-9, 361,
+  363, 364, 368, 370-2
+Evans, P.O., 63, 65, 67-8, 97, 105, 153, 157, 164, 165 _seq._,
+  178-9, 209, 237, 242, 270, 273, 280, 285-6, 296, 308, 311-12,
+  317, 323-4, 326-7, 329, 337, 344, 352, 354-5, 364, 369
+
+Falkland Islands, 199
+Feather, Thomas A., boatswain, 100-1, 157, 161, 162, 164-5
+Fefer, 229
+Ferrar, Hartley T., 27, 48, 67, 97, 103, 138, 157, 159, 163, 176
+  Glacier, 152-3, 154, 158-9, 314
+Finance Committee, 17-18
+Fire, alarm of, 32
+Fisher, Admiral Sir John, 10
+Fitzclarence, dog, 108
+Football, 286, 325
+Forde, Robert, P.O., 209, 243, 248, 250, 258, 261, 270, 273, 279,
+  312, 314, 317, 326-7
+_Fram_, the, 20, 21
+Franklin Island, 141
+Franz-Josef Land, 25
+
+Gap, the, 60, 234
+Gateway, the, 352
+Geological specimens, 393-4, 398, 419
+Gerof, Demetri. _See_ Demetri
+Glacier, the Beardmore, 312, 338-9, 341, 345, 346, 349, 352, 354
+  _seq._, 392, 394, 419-20
+Glacier Depôt, 349, 352
+  Tongue, 225, 237, 239-41, 260, 274, 315-16, 324, 344
+Gran Tryggve, ski expert, 208, 218, 236, 243, 251, 254, 261-2,
+  263, 265, 267, 273, 295-6, 312, 314, 317, 327
+Granite Harbor, 50, 51
+Grannie, dog, 108
+Gus, dog, 108, 125
+
+Haakon, King, 383
+Hackenschmidt, pony, 276
+Half-Degree Depôt, 387
+Hamilton, B. T., 229
+Hampton Court Palace, 207
+Handsley. Jesse, A.B., 153, 157, 164-5, 175, 178-9
+Hanson, 43
+Hanssen, Hilmer, 383
+Hare, 63, 65, 68-9
+Hassel, Sverre H., 383
+Heald, William L., A.B., 62, 103, 176, 210
+Henley, W. E., _quoted_, 385
+'Hints to Travelers', 159-60
+Hobart Town, 182
+Hockey, 149
+Hodgson, Thomas V., 25, 27, 147, 149, 154
+Hooper, F. J., steward, 209, 276, 279, 280, 289, 339-40
+Hoskins, Sir Anthony, 18
+Hut, the _Discovery_, 59, 85-86, 87, 233, 239, 269 _seq._, 372
+  at Cape Evans, 227, 231, 234 _seq._, 275 _seq._
+  Point, 60, 88, 186, 190-1, 233, 240, 242-3, 258, 260-3, 265, 267,
+    271, 279, 285, 311, 318, 324, 327-9, 372, 411, 418
+Hutton Rocks, 273
+Huxley, _quoted_, 311
+
+Icebergs, 44 Inaccessible Island, 297, 316
+
+Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, 25 Jehu, pony, 308, 318, 328-9,
+330, 332-6, 338-9, 340 Jim, dog, 108-9, 125-6, 129 Joe, dog, 108
+
+Kennar, Thomas, P.O., 157, 159
+Keohane, Patrick, P.O., 209, 243, 250, 258, 261, 273, 279, 296, 308,
+  320, 327, 329, 340, 344, 348, 354, 357, 362, 418
+Kid, dog, 108-9, 125
+King Edward's Island, 56, 203, 233, 242
+Kinsey, J. J., letter to, 426-7
+Kipling, Rudyard, _quoted_, 401
+Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist, 25, 27, 61, _seq._,
+  78, 97, 138, 175
+
+Lantaret, 229
+Lashly, William, leading stoker, 97, 105, 153, 157, 162, 164, 165
+  _seq._, 178, 179, 209, 214, 276, 278-9, 299, 323, 331, 340,
+  344, 354-5, 364, 366-7, 369, 371-2
+Lectures, 282, 287, 290, 307-8
+Levick, G. Murray, surgeon, R.N., 208, 242
+Lewis, dog, 108-9, 126
+Lillehammer, 229
+Lillie, Denis G., biologist, 209, 240
+London Docks, 31, 141
+Lower Glacier Depôt, 356, 398, 404
+Lyttelton, 37-8, 211-12
+  Heads, 37, 199
+
+Macartney, Sir William Ellison, 427
+Mackay, Captain Harry, 182, 190
+Macquarie Island, 36, 37, 185
+Magnetic huts, 75
+  Observatory, 23
+Magnetism, 75
+_Majestic_, H.M.S., 15, 18, 26, 27
+Markham, Sir Clements, 15, 16, 29, 30, 141, 203 _seq._ (preface),
+  429
+Markham, Lady, 20
+McMurdo Sound, 51, 58, 138, 142, 194, 230, 237, 260
+Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs, 208, 218, 226, 232-4, 236,
+  239, 240, 242-4, 246-8, 251-2, 254-8, 261, 263, 265, 267, 273,
+  279, 285, 299, 311-12, 318-19, 327, 329, 333, 337, 354, 356
+Merchant Shipping Act, 28
+Meridians, 217
+Message to the public, 430-2
+Meteorological observations, 74, 75, 83, 84
+  screens, 71, 74
+Michael, pony, 308, 347
+Middle Barrier Depôt, 340, 405, 407
+Midwinter celebrations, 290-3
+Milton, _quoted_, 254
+Monument Rock, 400
+_Morning_, the, 43, 53, 135, 141-6, 181 _seq._, 194, 198
+Motor sledges, 212, 226-30, 290, 312-13, 318, 321, 326-7, 329-30, 332
+Mount Buckley, 393-4
+  Cloudmaker, 357-98
+  Darwin, 364, 390, 391, 393
+  Discovery, 225
+  Erebus, 131, 235, 274, 316
+  Hooper Depôt, 410, 411
+  Hope, 346
+  Longstaff, 122
+  Markham, 124
+  Melbourne, 49
+  Monteagle, 49
+  Murchison, 49
+  Sabine, 222
+  Terror, 302
+  Whewell, 222
+Mulock, Lieut. George F. A., 27, 145, 149, 152, 176, 193, 195, 197
+
+Nansen, Dr., 17, 19, 20, 89
+Naval Discipline Act, 28
+Nell, dog, 101, 108-9, 125-6, 129
+Nelson, Edward W., biologist, 208, 224, 227, 236, 276-7, 279, 287,
+  319-20
+Newbolt, Henry, _quoted_, 31
+New Harbor, 153, 157, 315
+Newnes, Sir George, 43
+New Zealand, 23, 37, 38, 199, 211
+New Zealand, Government of, 207
+Nigger, dog, 101, 108-9, 125-6, 129
+Nobby, pony, 262, 268, 308, 325, 342-3, 351, 353
+Northern Party, 233, 242-3
+Norway, 17, 89
+Norwegians, the, 384-5
+
+Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G., 208, 213, 220, 226, 236, 239-40, 241,
+  243, 248-9, 252, 254, 261-2, 263, 265, 267, 270, 273, 279-80,
+  284-5, 299, 308, 318-20, 321, 333, 336-7, 343-4, 351, 354-5, 364,
+  373 _seq._
+Outlands, 2, 5
+Observatory Hill, 60, 134, 234
+Oil, shortage of, 404-5, 408, 411, 416
+'Old Mooney,' 6, 8, 9
+Omelchenko, Anton. _See_ Anton
+One Ton Camp, 253, 317, 326-7, 371, 410-11, 412, 415, 417
+Osman, dog, 255-6
+
+P. and O. Company, 25
+Pack-ice, 35 _seq._, 44, 49, 51, 196, 216-17, 218
+Parry Mountains, 54
+Peary, Lieutenant, 28
+Penguins, 36, 40, 148, 180, 226
+  Emperor, 106, 137, 153, 155, 223, 294, 302, 305
+  King, 36
+Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L., 209, 224, 230, 238
+Petrels, 35
+  Antarctic, 40
+  Giant, 40
+  Southern Fulmar, 40
+  White Snow, 40
+  Wilson stormy, 35
+Pigg, James, pony, 250, 258, 261, 263, 268, 308, 318, 329, 340, 342
+Plumley, Frank, stoker, 62, 157
+Pole, the South, 382 _seq._
+  Camp, 384
+Ponies, the, 212-15, 220, 226, 239, 241, 243 _seq._, 263-7,
+  285-6, 312, 318, 332 _seq._
+Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist, 208, 219, 227-8, 236, 276-7,
+  282, 284, 292, 314, 319, 327, 329
+Port Chalmers, 38, 39, 76, 212
+  Ross, 195
+  Stanley, 199
+Possession Islands, 141
+Pram Point, 263, 269
+  Bay, 269
+  Ridges, 267
+_President_, H.M.S., 206
+Pressure Ridges, 319
+Priestley, Raymond E., geologist, 208, 223, 242, 260
+Proverbs, _quoted_, 137
+Punch, pony, 262, 266
+
+Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker, 63, 65, 67-8, 105, 175
+
+Razor Back Islands, 240, 274
+Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P., 209, 224
+Roberston Bay, 42, 195
+Rodd, Sir Rennell, _quoted_, 231
+Ross, Sir James, 31, 40, 46, 54-5, 196-7
+Ross Harbor, 198
+  Island, 176, 203, 239
+  Quadrant, 29
+  Sea, 216
+_Rover_, H.M.S., 10
+Royal Geographical Society, 17
+Royal Society, 17
+Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R., 18, 26, 53, 61 _seq._, 74-5, 78,
+  85-7, 97, 105, 132, 137, 139, 147, 149, 155, 176
+Russell Islands, 197
+
+Safety Camp, 243-4, 245-6, 254, 258-9, 261-2, 263, 265, 329-30
+San Francisco, 11
+Sawing-camp, 175, 178-9
+_Saxon_, S.S., 207
+Scamp, dog, 37
+Scott, John Edward, 1
+Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to, 427, 428, 429, _et passim_
+Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to, 427
+Scott of Brownhead, 1
+Scott, Peter Markham, 207
+Scurvy, 103-4, 117, 129, 134, 144, 148, 371
+Sea leopard, 41
+  elephant, 185
+Seals, 41, 48, 269, 279
+  crab-eater, 41
+  Ross, 41
+Shackleton, Sir Ernest H., 27, 79, 98, 107 _seq._, 143, 145,
+  233, 344, 352, 357, 370, 372, 375
+Shackleton's hut, 286
+Shakespeare, _quoted_, 95, 120, 294, 354
+Shambles Camp, 353, 401
+Shelley, _quoted_, 74, 167
+Ship Committee, 17, 20, 23
+Simon's Bay, 32, 33
+Simpson. George C., Meteorologist, 208, 231, 236, 277, 281-2, 283,
+  312, 316
+Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W., 18, 27, 60 _seq._, 85-6, 105,
+  135, 138, 147-8, 153, 162, 164-5, 176, 191-3, 229
+Ski, 19, 60, 61, 130, 173, 246, 340, 354-5, 358, 360, 370, 375,
+  386, 388, 390
+Ski-shoes, 361
+Skua gulls, 40, 148, 180
+Skuary, the, 225
+Sledge equipment, 89, 151, 312
+Sledges, 91, 92, 279, 280, 370
+Sleeping-bags, 304, 306, 307, 388
+Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald, 427
+Smith's Inlet, 260
+Snatcher, dog, 108, 115
+  pony, 308, 325, 329, 352
+Snippets, pony, 308-9, 328, 332, 341, 343
+Snow-shoes, for ponies, 245, 247, 308, 352
+South Africa, Government of, 207
+Southern Barrier Depôt, 342
+  Road, the, 239-40
+South Polar Times, _Discovery_ Expedition, 79-80
+  Last Expedition, 281, 290-1, 373
+Spenser, _quoted_, 52
+Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to, 424
+Spud, dog, 108-9, 115
+Stareek, dog, 244-5
+Stoke Damerel, 5
+Stripes, dog, 108
+Stubbington House, Fareham, 5
+Sturge Island, 197
+Sun, eclipse of, 156
+Sverdrup's 'New Land', 295
+
+Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist, 208, 223, 236, 242, 270, 273-4,
+  281-2, 283, 287, 291, 327
+Telephone, the, 318-19
+Tent, double, 295
+Tent, Island, 297, 325
+  Islet, 184
+_Terra Nova_, Discovery Expedition, 182-3, 187 _seq._, 194, 198
+  Last Expedition, 207, 211, 220, 237, 292, 324, 372
+Thermometer, minimum, 253, 337
+Thomson, Sir Courtauld, 11
+Three Degree Depôt, 370, 385-6, 387, 389, 404
+Transport, 312, 345
+Turtle Back Island, 271
+
+Uncle Bill, pony, 262-3
+Uniform overcoat, 309
+Union Jack, the, 235, 291, 384, 428-9
+Upper Glacier Depôt, 390, 392, 404
+
+Vic, dog, 108
+Victor, pony, 308-9, 325, 334, 343
+Victoria, B.C., 11
+  Land, 42, 76, 138, 167, 176, 196, 203, 233, 260
+  Quadrant, 29
+_Victorious_, H.M.S., 206
+Vince, A. B., 63, 66-9, 190, 234
+
+Weary Willy, pony, 245, 251, 261-3
+Weddell Quadrant, 29
+Weller, William J., A.B., 48, 62, 157
+Western Geological Party (1), 242, 260, 270
+  (2) 317, 325, 327
+Western Mountains, 312, 325
+Whales, killer, 227-8
+White Island, 134, 261, 264
+Wild, Frank, 62-3, 66, 67, 97, 105, 344
+Wilkes, Commodore, 197
+Wilkes Land, 198
+Williams, William, engineer, 209, 214
+Williamson, Thomas S., P.O., 157, 209, 229
+Wilson, Dr.  E.  A., chief, the scientific staff (Last Expedition),
+  zoologist, 5, 26-8, 35-6, 48-9, 53, 75-6, 80, 103, 107
+  _seq._, 143-4, 147, 153, 155-6, 176, 180-1, 185, 195, 208, 219-20,
+  223, 225, 231, 236, 240, 242-4, 246-8, 254-6, 258, 261, 263, 265,
+  267, 269-70, 272-3, 279-80, 286, 289, 294, 300-7, 308, 318-19,
+  320-2, 324-5, 329, 335, 344, 351, 353-5, 361, 364, 372 _seq._
+Wilson, Mrs., letter to, 421
+Winter Quarter Bay, 60
+Wisting, Oscar, 383
+Wolf, dog, 108-9
+Wolseley Motor Company, 229
+Wood Bay, 49, 50, 141
+Wright, Charles S., physicist, 208, 224, 231, 236, 242, 270, 280,
+  283, 308, 314, 321, 329, 335, 340, 344, 354-5, 362
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 6721-8.txt or 6721-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/2/6721/
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/6721-8.zip b/6721-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1020392
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-8.zip
diff --git a/6721-h.zip b/6721-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..84206f5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h.zip
diff --git a/6721-h/6721-h.htm b/6721-h/6721-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..43f4cd1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/6721-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,16398 @@
+<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01//EN">
+<html lang="en">
+
+<head>
+ <title>The Voyages of Captain Scott</title>
+ <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1">
+ <meta name="keywords" content="antarctica scott expedition ice cold">
+ <meta name="author" content="Charles Turley">
+ <meta name="rating" content="General">
+ <meta name="robots" content="all">
+ <style type="text/css">
+ <!--
+   BODY         { color: black; background: white;
+                  margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+   P.indent     { text-indent: 3mm; text-align: justify; }
+   P.footnote   { font-size: smaller; }
+   P.subtitle   { text-align: center; font-size: large; }
+   P.center     { text-align: center; }
+   P.author     { font-size: larger; text-align: center; }
+   P.bquote     { margin-left: 4em; }
+   P.plist      { margin-left: 2em; }
+   P.index      { font-size: smaller;
+                  margin-top: 1px; margin-bottom: 1px;
+                  text-indent: -5mm; padding-left: 5mm; }
+   H1           { text-align: center; margin-top: 2em; }
+   H2           { text-align: center; margin-top: 4em; }
+   H3           { text-align: center; margin-top: 4em; }
+   TABLE.center { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; }
+   TD.right     { text-align: right; }
+   SPAN.page    { position: absolute; left: 87%; right: auto;
+                  text-align: right; text-indent: 0em;
+                  color: gray; background: white;
+                  font-size: 9pt; font-weight: normal; }
+   DIV.image    { text-align: center;
+                  margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; }
+ -->
+ </style>
+
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott
+       Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's
+              Last Expedition'
+
+Author: Charles Turley
+
+Release Date: January 7, 2006 [EBook #6721]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="image" style="width: 456px;">
+<a name="page_ii"><span class="page">Page ii</span></a>
+<img src="images/fig001.jpg" width="456" height="676"
+ alt="Captain Robert F. Scott R.N.">
+</div>
+
+<h1>
+<a name="page_iii"><span class="page">Page iii</span></a>
+THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's Last
+Expedition'</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="author">
+BY CHARLES TURLEY
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+Author of 'Godfrey Marten, Schoolboy,' 'A Band of Brothers,' etc.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+With an introduction by
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+Numerous illustrations in colour and black and white and a map
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_v"><span class="page">Page v</span></a>
+CONTENTS
+</h2>
+
+<p>INTRODUCTION</p>
+
+<p>THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'</p>
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td>Chapter</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">I.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_15">The 'Discovery'.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">II.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_31">Southward Ho!</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">III.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_52">In Search of Winter
+   Quarters.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">IV.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_74">The Polar Winter.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">V.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_95">The Start of the Southern
+   Journey.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VI.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_120">The Return.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VII.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_137">A Second Winter.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VIII.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_151">The Western Journey.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">IX.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_167">The Return from the West.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">X.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_178">Release.</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>THE LAST EXPEDITION</p>
+
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td>Chapter</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_203">Preface to 'Scott's Last
+  Expedition'.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_206">Biographical Note.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_208">British Antarctic Expedition,
+   1910.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">I.</td>
+  <td><a name="page_vi"><span class="page">Page vi</span></a>
+  <a href="#page_211">Through Stormy Seas.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">II.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_231">Dep&ocirc;t Laying to One Ton
+   Camp.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">III.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_254">Perils.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">IV.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_269">A Happy Family.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">V.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_294">Winter.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VI.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_311">Good-bye to Cape Evans.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VII.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_328">The Southern Journey Begins.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">VIII.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_354">On the Beardmore Glacier.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">IX.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_373">The South Pole.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">X.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_385">On the Homeward Journey.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">XI.</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_401">The Last March.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_418">Search Party Discovers the Tent.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_419">In Memoriam.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_421">Farewell Letters.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#page_430">Message to the Public.</a></td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#index">Index.</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_vii"><span class="page">Page vii</span></a>
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+</h2>
+
+<p><i>PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE</i></p>
+
+<p class="plist">
+Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott<br>
+<i>From a photograph by J. Russell &amp; Son, Southsea</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p><i>COLOURED PLATES</i></p>
+
+<p class="plist">
+<i>From Water-Colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="plist">
+Sledding.<br />
+Mount Erebus.<br />
+Lunar Corona.<br />
+'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp.
+</p>
+
+<p><i>DOUBLE PAGE PLATE</i></p>
+
+<p class="plist">
+Panorama at Cape Evans.<br />
+Berg in South Bay.
+</p>
+
+<p><i>FULL PAGE PLATES</i></p>
+
+<p class="plist">
+Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet.<br />
+The 'Discovery'.<br />
+Looking up the gateway from Pony Dep&ocirc;t.<br />
+Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.<br />
+Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.<br />
+The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.<br />
+Pony Camp on the barrier.<br />
+Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.<br />
+Pitching the double tent on the summit.<br />
+<a name="page_viii"><span class="page">Page viii</span></a>
+Ad&eacute;lie Penguin on nest.<br />
+Emperor Penguins on sea-ice.<br />
+Dog party starting from Hut Point.<br />
+Dog lines.<br />
+Looking up the gateway from Pony Dep&ocirc;t.<br />
+Looking south from Lower Glacier dep&ocirc;t,<br />
+Man hauling camp, 87th parallel.<br />
+The party at the South Pole.<br />
+'The Last Rest'.<br />
+Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal.<br />
+Track chart of main southern journey.
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_1"><span class="page">Page 1</span></a>
+INTRODUCTION
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately
+home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief
+recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing
+man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the
+streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I then
+escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long through
+the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the life of
+action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those who
+sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he assured
+me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems to have
+been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I had drawn
+this from him with a promise that, if his reply was satisfactory, I
+would let him go to bed. However, the family traditions (they are
+nothing more) do bring him from across the border. According to
+them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott of Brownhead whose
+estates were sequestered after the '45. His dwelling was razed
+to the ground and he fled with his wife, to whom after some grim
+privations a son was born in a fisherman's hut on September 14,
+1745. This son eventually settled in Devon, where he prospered,
+<a name="page_2"><span class="page">Page 2</span></a>
+for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands that he died. He
+had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the eldest had as
+youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the Captain Scott who
+was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the same date, or perhaps
+a little earlier, it was decided that the boy should go into the
+Navy like so many of his for-bears.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days of
+Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may have
+some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain Scott;
+and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some chance
+for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things does
+not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history aged
+six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in velveteen,
+being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping horribly,
+like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest recollection of
+him of a sister, who was too young to join in a children's party
+on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always called, had intimated
+to her that from a window she would be able to see him taking a
+noble lead in the festivities in the garden, and she looked; and
+that is what she saw. He had been showing his guests how superbly
+he could jump the leat, and had fallen into it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch of
+the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another
+branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These were
+the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many ways of
+being in them accidentally, it being forbidden
+<a name="page_3"><span class="page">Page 3</span></a>
+to enter them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother
+a new version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of
+'Touch.' You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little
+good fortune, one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not
+so much matter though you got wetter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields was
+to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned the easy
+ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach to this
+dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his country and
+of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties of gallant tars
+to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At foot of the avenue
+was an oak tree which hung over the road, and thus by dropping from
+this tree you got into open country. The tree was (at this time)
+of an enormous size, with sufficient room to conceal a navy, and
+the navy consisted mainly of the sisters and the young brother.
+All had to be ready at any moment to leap from the tree and join
+issue with the enemy on the leat. In the fields there was also a
+mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups 'the pond,' and here Scott's
+battleship lay moored. It seems for some time to have been an English
+vessel, but by and by he was impelled, as all boys are, to blow
+something up, and he could think of nothing more splendid for his
+purpose than the battleship. Thus did it become promptly a ship
+of the enemy doing serious damage to the trade of those parts,
+and the valiant Con took to walking about with lips pursed, brows
+frowning as he cogitated how to remove the
+<a name="page_4"><span class="page">Page 4</span></a>
+Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters and brother trotting
+by his side and looking anxiously into his set face. At last he
+decided to blow the accursed thing up with gunpowder. His crew
+cheered, and then waited to be sent to the local shop for a pennyworth
+of gunpowder. But Con made his own gunpowder, none of the faithful
+were ever told how, and on a great day the train was laid. Con applied
+the match and ordered all to stand back. A deafening explosion was
+expected, but a mere puff of flame was all that came; the Terror
+of Devon, which to the unimaginative was only a painted plank,
+still rode the waters. With many boys this would be the end of
+the story, but not with Con. He again retired to the making of
+gunpowder, and did not desist from his endeavors until he had blown
+that plank sky-high.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is probably
+the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly always given
+it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was with Con, and a
+few minutes after he had sworn that he would not open it he was
+begging for permission to use it on a tempting sapling. 'Very well,'
+his father said grimly, 'but remember, if you hurt yourself, don't
+expect any sympathy from me.' The knife was opened, and to cut
+himself rather badly proved as easy as falling into the leat. The
+father, however, had not noticed, and the boy put his bleeding
+hand into his pocket and walked on unconcernedly. He was really
+considerably damaged; and this is a good story of a child of seven
+who all his life suffered extreme nausea from
+<a name="page_5"><span class="page">Page 5</span></a>
+the sight of blood; even in the <i>Discovery</i> days, to get accustomed
+to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch Dr. Wilson skinning
+his specimens.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess,
+and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel
+and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between
+Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in
+vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing
+other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this
+is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a
+gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and when
+he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be seen. He
+walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic was that
+he called at police-stations on the way to give practical details
+of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children would have
+thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange mixture of the
+dreamy and the practical, and never more practical than immediately
+after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and time altogether when
+thus abstracted. I remember the first time he dined with me, when
+a number of well-known men had come to meet him, he arrived some
+two hours late. He had dressed to come out, then fallen into one
+of his reveries, forgotten all about the engagement, dined by himself
+and gone early to bed. Just as he was falling asleep he remembered
+where he should be, arose hastily and joined us as speedily as
+possible. It was equally characteristic of him to say
+<a name="page_6"><span class="page">Page 6</span></a>
+of the other guests that it was pleasant to a sailor to meet so
+many interesting people. When I said that to them the sailor was
+by far the most interesting person in the room he shouted with
+mirth. It always amused Scott to find that anyone thought him a
+person of importance.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig002.jpg" width="551" height="800"
+ alt="Figure 2">
+<br />ROBERT F. SCOTT AT THE AGE OF 13 AS A NAVAL CADET.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as later
+when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly
+built. This was so far from being the case that there were many
+anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could
+not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary
+number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined to
+be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here printed,
+in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had gone by the
+time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no letters of
+this period extant and thus little can be said of his years on the
+<i>Britannia</i> where 'you never felt hot in your bunk because
+you could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at port hole.'
+He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who is not thought
+well of by the other boys as well as by their instructors, but none
+of them foresaw that he was likely to become anybody in particular.
+He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father had dubbed him, owing to
+his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him to work hard, he cast a
+wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a good loser, he was untidy
+to the point of slovenliness, and he had a fierce temper. All this
+I think has been proved to me up to the
+<a name="page_7"><span class="page">Page 7</span></a>
+hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so cannot
+be very different from the man he grows into it leaves me puzzled.
+The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically as hard as
+nails and flung himself into work or play with a vehemence I cannot
+remember ever to have seen equaled. I have fished with him, played
+cricket and football with him, and other games, those of his own
+invention being of a particularly arduous kind, for they always
+had a moment when the other players were privileged to fling a hard
+ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,' was the last quality
+you would think of when you saw him bearing down on you with that
+ball, and it was the last he asked of you if you were bearing down
+on him. He was equally strenuous of work; indeed I have no clearer
+recollection of him than his way of running from play to work or work
+to play, so that there should be the least possible time between.
+It is the 'time between' that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott
+lived less in it than anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the
+best of losers, with a shout of delight for every good stroke by
+an opponent: what is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat
+and correct in his dress, quite a model for the youth who come
+after him, but that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good
+form' in the Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof.
+I have never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and
+I have seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have
+been excusable.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was
+<a name="page_8"><span class="page">Page 8</span></a>
+none of those things I saw in him but something better. The faults
+of his youth must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he
+got to know they were there and he took an iron grip of them and
+never let go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything
+else that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud.
+I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his manhood
+days which are not strictly within the sphere of this introductory
+note. The horror of slackness was turned into a very passion for
+keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one time taking charge
+of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race it all the way between
+work and home, a distance of three miles. Even when he was getting
+the <i>Discovery</i> ready and doing daily the work of several
+men, he might have been seen running through the streets of London
+from Savile Row or the Admiralty to his home, not because there
+was no time for other method of progression, but because he must
+be fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for him; he kept an eye for
+ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly the most practical of
+men. And practical in the cheeriest of ways. In 1894 a disastrous
+change came over the fortunes of the family, the father's money
+being lost and then Scott was practical indeed. A letter he wrote I
+at this time to his mother, tenderly taking everything and everybody
+on his shoulders, must be one of the best letters ever written by
+a son, and I hope it may be some day published. His mother was the
+great person of his early life, more to him even than his brother
+<a name="page_9"><span class="page">Page 9</span></a>
+or his father, whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of
+following the sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all
+bound up in this son, determined that Con should do the big things
+he had not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the
+head of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not
+in an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He
+never seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles
+fell, and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became
+famous as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old
+Mooney' in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts,
+in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district,
+deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words, 'Wull
+'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young gentleman
+be here along?'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived
+the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and
+took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were
+satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his sisters.
+It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness so
+far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model
+for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While
+there were others to help he would not spend his small means on
+himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that he had
+grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a pin. In
+the days when he returned from
+<a name="page_10"><span class="page">Page 10</span></a>
+his first voyage in the Antarctic and all England was talking of him,
+one of his most novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class
+tailor and be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by
+the possession of this as a child. When going about the country
+lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was
+sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red
+carpets.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but by
+now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days of which
+unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends who remember
+the tempers remember also the sunny smile that dissipated them. When
+I knew him the sunny smile was there frequently, and was indeed
+his greatest personal adornment, but the tempers never reached
+the surface. He had become master of his fate and captain of his
+soul.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In 1886 Scott became a middy on the <i>Boadicea</i>, and later
+on various ships, one of them the <i>Rover</i>, of which Admiral
+Fisher was at that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection
+of a little black pig having been found under his bunk one night.
+He cannot swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was
+certainly one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a
+punishment. In 1888 Scott passed his examinations for sub-lieutenant,
+with four first-class honours and one second, and so left his boyhood
+behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion to
+these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld
+<a name="page_11"><span class="page">Page 11</span></a>
+Thomson that gives a very attractive glimpse of him in this same
+year:
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find my
+way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up and
+the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found tramp
+steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians hurrying off
+to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked a very unpleasant lot
+of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing Frisco toughs joined
+me in my cabin, which was none too large for a single person. I was
+then told that yet another had somehow to be wedged in. While I was
+wondering if he could be a more ill-favored or dirtier specimen of
+humanity than the others the last comer suddenly appeared&mdash;the
+jolliest and breeziest English naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con
+Scott. I had never seen him before, but we at once became friends
+and remained so till the end. He was going up to join his ship
+which, I think, was the <i>Amphion</i>, at Esquimault, B. C.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full
+gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was so
+overcrowded that a large number of women and children were allowed
+to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on condition
+that they got up early, so that the rest of the passengers could
+come in for breakfast and the other meals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a woman
+was able to get up, and the
+<a name="page_12"><span class="page">Page 12</span></a>
+saloon was soon in an indescribable condition. Practically no attempt
+was made to serve meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves
+mostly out of action from drink or sea-sickness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent
+their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some of
+our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share
+of the waves that were washing the deck.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human
+being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took
+command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as their
+Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of volunteers
+he led an attack on the saloon&mdash;dressed the mothers, washed
+the children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors and nursed
+the sick, and performed every imaginable service for all hands.
+On deck he settled the quarrels and established order either by
+his personality, or, if necessary, by his fists. Practically by
+day and night he worked for the common good, never sparing himself,
+and with his infectious smile gradually made us all feel the whole
+thing was jolly good fun.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself who,
+after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds the
+vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing
+blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself for
+the welfare and happiness of others.'
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_13"><span class="page">Page 13</span></a>
+THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+</h2>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig003.jpg" width="495" height="776" alt="Figure 3">
+<br />THE 'DISCOVERY'.<br />
+Reproduced from a drawing by Dr. E. A. Wilson.
+</div>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_15"><span class="page">Page 15</span></a>
+CHAPTER I
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE <i>DISCOVERY</i></p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore<br>
+Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave in
+London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the Buckingham
+Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first time of a
+prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following day he called
+upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of this eventful
+visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there was a remarkable
+coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant of the <i>Majestic</i>.
+I was just sitting down to write to my old friend Captain Egerton[1]
+about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command
+the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great a
+trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply
+and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed
+a foregone conclusion.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir
+<a name="page_16"><span class="page">Page 16</span></a>
+Clements and Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of
+his cousin, the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the
+acquaintance of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised
+it. During the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott
+more than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down
+as a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir
+Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy
+stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this
+Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead it. So
+when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank of Commander,
+and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the work that was
+waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed from the shoulders
+of the man who had not only proposed the expedition, but had also
+resolved that nothing should prevent it from going.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered
+before the <i>Discovery</i> could start upon her voyage. First
+and foremost was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable
+efforts the financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of
+1899. Later on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy
+with the objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him
+that the Government eventually agreed to contribute &pound;45,000,
+provided that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the
+<a name="page_17"><span class="page">Page 17</span></a>
+special Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition,
+was laid in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite
+beginning, at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had
+taken up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control
+over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition, the
+only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday. A visit
+to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions from Dr.
+Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there he discovered
+that the German expedition, which was to sail from Europe at the same
+time as his own, was already in an advanced state of preparation.
+Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to England and found, as
+he had expected, that all the arrangements, which were in full
+swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill in England. The
+construction of the ship was the only work that was progressing,
+and even in this there were many interruptions from the want of
+some one to give immediate decisions on points of detail.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on November
+4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and the Royal
+Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left Scott practically
+with a free hand to push on the work in every department, under a
+given estimate of expenditure in each. To safeguard the interests
+of the two Societies the resolution provided that this expenditure
+should be supervised by a Finance Committee,
+<a name="page_18"><span class="page">Page 18</span></a>
+and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties
+were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests
+to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally
+arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it is mere
+justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its members
+began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of the undertaking.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as possible,
+the various members of the expedition. Before he had left the
+<i>Majestic</i> he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the intention
+as regards the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody them from
+the R.N.? I sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set his heart on
+obtaining a naval crew, partly because he thought that their sense
+of discipline would be invaluable, but also because he doubted
+his ability to deal with any other class of men.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that
+Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not from
+any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions of principle
+and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance in this respect
+was limited to two officers, Scott himself and Royds, then the
+limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer, a carpenter and
+a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval nucleus was obtained.
+But it was not until the spring of 1901 that the Admiralty, thanks to
+Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald Douglas, gave in altogether,
+and as the selection of
+<a name="page_19"><span class="page">Page 19</span></a>
+the most fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men
+did not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters
+in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal in
+Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges,
+ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while
+tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples
+of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily
+on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes
+depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly
+be ready to start at the required date.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction
+of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and the
+carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous small
+difficulties that arose in connection with the building of the
+ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also been filled
+up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in many places.
+Some men were working on their especial subjects in the British
+Museum, others were preparing themselves at the Physical Laboratory
+at Kew, and others, again, were traveling in various directions
+both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs the central office
+was obliged to take notice, and so for its occupants idle moments
+were few and very far between. Nansen said once that the hardest work
+<a name="page_20"><span class="page">Page 20</span></a>
+of a Polar voyage came in its preparation, and during the years
+1900-1, Scott found ample cause to agree with him. But in spite
+of conflicting interests, which at times threatened to wreck the
+well-being of the expedition, work, having been properly organized,
+went steadily forward; until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel
+was launched at Dundee and named the '<i>Discovery</i>' by Lady
+Markham.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best plan
+was to revive some time-honoured title, and that few names were more
+distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of that name,
+and inherited a long record of honourable and fortunate service.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Discovery</i> had been nothing more than a skeleton when it
+was decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London;
+consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought
+round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East
+India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores
+were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined
+to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was laden.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen
+strongly recommended a vessel of the <i>Fram</i> type with fuller
+lines for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed
+to consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had very
+sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's
+<a name="page_21"><span class="page">Page 21</span></a>
+celebrated <i>Fram</i> was built for the specific object of remaining
+safely in the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures
+which were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object
+was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of the
+vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure
+merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this design
+was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation that
+its conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What, however,
+has been generally forgotten is that the safety of the <i>Fram</i>
+was secured at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers of
+ice-penetration.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Since the <i>Fram</i> was built there have been two distinct types
+of Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security
+in the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to sail
+the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs. And
+a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which of
+these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration, because
+it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all be prepared
+to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and then be ready
+to force her way through the ice-floes to the mysteries beyond.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances,
+the old <i>Discovery</i> (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the
+best ship that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the
+Ship Committee eventually decided that the new vessel should be
+built on more
+<a name="page_22"><span class="page">Page 22</span></a>
+or less the same lines. The new <i>Discovery</i> had the honour
+to be the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration, and
+the decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was more
+than justified by her excellent qualities.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had to
+be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the ship
+gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass of solid
+wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting. No single
+tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the several trees
+used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent of a solid
+block. In further preparation for the battle with ice-floes, the
+stem itself and the bow for three or four feet on either side were
+protected with numerous steel plates, so that when the ship returned
+to civilization not a scratch remained to show the hard knocks
+received by the bow.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration. In
+the outline drawing of the <i>Discovery</i> will be seen how largely
+the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than
+in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted
+was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging a
+large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the bows
+were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship acting
+downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would drop, and
+gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against the
+<a name="page_23"><span class="page">Page 23</span></a>
+next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the elasticity
+and strength to thrust its way without injury through the thick
+Polar ice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Dundee the building of the <i>Discovery</i> aroused the keenest
+interest, and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an entirely
+new feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the strongest
+criticism. All sorts of misfortunes were predicted, but events
+proved that this overhanging rounded form of stem was infinitely
+superior for ice-work to the old form of stem, because it gave
+better protection to the rudder, rudder post and screw, and was
+more satisfactory in heavy seas.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig004a.jpg" width="768" height="188"
+ alt="Figure 4a">
+<br />PROFILE DRAWING OF 'DISCOVERY'.
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig004b.jpg" width="735" height="164"
+ alt="Figure 4b">
+<br />OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF 'DISCOVERY' AND 'FRAM'.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the <i>Discovery</i>
+the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,' was
+an important place. For the best of reasons it was important that
+the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should be as
+accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood that magnetic
+observations cannot be taken in a place closely surrounded by iron.
+The ardor of the magnetic experts on the Ship Committee had led
+them at first to ask that there should be neither iron nor steel
+in the vessel, but after it had been pointed out that this could
+scarcely be, a compromise was arrived at and it was agreed that
+no magnetic materials should be employed within thirty feet of
+the observatory. This decision caused immense trouble and expense,
+but in the end it was justified, for the magnetic observations
+taken on board throughout the voyage
+<a name="page_25"><span class="page">Page 25</span></a>
+required very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic
+experts were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from
+them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened
+with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the ship was
+on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into dire disgrace,
+not because it was too talkative, but because it had been hanging
+on the mess-deck during a whole set of observations, and the wires
+of its cage were made of iron.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Discovery</i> was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel
+ever built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about
+his officers and men as he was about the ship herself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small
+wardroom of the <i>Discovery</i> was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage,
+R.N.R. He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship
+training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience;
+for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in
+1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth
+Expedition to Franz-Josef Land.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service
+in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were
+expected to be light, he combined them with those of official botanist.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook
+or crook all the strange beasts
+<a name="page_26"><span class="page">Page 26</span></a>
+that inhabit the Polar seas, and no greater enthusiast for his work
+could have been chosen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do
+with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in
+the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war.
+Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face of
+great difficulties he secured the most valuable records.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott in
+the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the expedition
+had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted for a voyage
+where there were many elements of dangers and difficulty.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The original idea in appointing two doctors to the <i>Discovery</i>
+was that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party.
+This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason
+to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed
+was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which arose
+between them, and which in the end was destined to make history, it
+is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is believed to
+be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter headed 'At
+sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who will do great
+things some day&mdash;Wilson. He has quite the keenest intellect
+on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know his artistic
+talent, but would be surprised at
+<a name="page_27"><span class="page">Page 27</span></a>
+the speed at which he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which
+he is always at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps
+with any job that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow
+all round.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate
+zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity he
+dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the second
+he produced a very large number of excellent pictures and sketches
+of the wild scenes among which he was living.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to
+apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer.
+At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and his
+appointment to the <i>Discovery</i> was most fortunate in every
+way. From first to last there was no serious difficulty with the
+machinery or with anything connected with it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition a
+short time before the <i>Discovery</i> sailed, and the physicist,
+Louis Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout
+the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was obliged
+to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was taken by
+George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the Navy when
+he joined.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson,
+<a name="page_28"><span class="page">Page 28</span></a>
+who was thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members
+of the wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that
+time Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar
+service. Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced
+as the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his
+last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is the
+younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says he never
+felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between 30 and
+40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course. He is
+29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember that Peary
+was 52!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three
+years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen, and
+Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers, petty
+officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval discipline
+that is very necessary for such conditions as exist in Polar service.
+The <i>Discovery</i>, it must be remembered, was not in Government
+employment, and so had no more stringent regulations to enforce
+discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping Act. But
+everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was under the
+Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known that this
+state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much credit as
+the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously to observe it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_29"><span class="page">Page 29</span></a>
+Something remains to be said about the <i>Discovery's</i> prospective
+course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested that
+the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants, to be
+named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and the
+Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant should
+be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was received
+with such unanimous approval that long before the <i>Discovery</i>
+was built her prospective course had been finally decided. In fact
+every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in the
+Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions
+on such a voyage as the <i>Discovery's</i> it may be thought that,
+when once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better.
+Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom
+to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general
+view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the various
+objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is clearly to
+the commander's advantage to know in what light these interests
+are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise. Of such a
+nature were the instructions Scott received before sailing for
+the South.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable
+assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid
+it is doubtful if the <i>Discovery</i> would ever have started
+had it not been
+<a name="page_30"><span class="page">Page 30</span></a>
+that among these helpers was one who, from the first, had given
+his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand. After all
+is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the idea of this
+Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful personality which
+swept aside all obstacles and obstructions.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_31"><span class="page">Page 31</span></a>
+CHAPTER II
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">SOUTHWARD HO!</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,<br />
+They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.<br />
+Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away.<br />
+And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay.<br />
+&nbsp;&mdash;NEWBOLT.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On July 31, 1901, the <i>Discovery</i> left the London Docks, and
+slowly wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5,
+she was honoured by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.
+This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties
+showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time
+it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed
+by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets and
+return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage were
+also not to be forgotten&mdash;a voyage to the Antarctic, the very
+map of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following
+on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and
+James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the
+Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered
+therefore that his great anxieties were
+<a name="page_32"><span class="page">Page 32</span></a>
+to be off and doing, to justify the existence of the expedition at
+the earliest possible moment, and to obey the instructions which
+had been given him?
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before the <i>Discovery</i> had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was
+evident that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions,
+and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on
+the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to take
+full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the first
+exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback, as it had
+been confidently expected that there would be ample time to make
+trial of various devices for sounding and dredging in the deep
+sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact that no trials
+could be made on the outward voyage was severely felt when the
+Antarctic was reached.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On October 2 the <i>Discovery</i> arrived within 150 miles of the
+Cape, and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's
+Bay. The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons
+with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to
+be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at the
+Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our own
+observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time for
+such repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances,
+could alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne,
+however, worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received
+so much valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish
+a maximum
+<a name="page_33"><span class="page">Page 33</span></a>
+amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.' In every
+way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the Cape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later
+the <i>Discovery</i> once more put out to sea; and as time went on
+those on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy
+qualities. Towards the end of October there was a succession of
+heavy following gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous
+seas that followed in her wake, and, considering her size, she was
+wonderfully free of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following
+sea, however, she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and
+rolls of more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape of
+the stern, to which reference has been made, was now well tested.
+It gave additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing the ship to
+rise more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting effect was
+also directed to throwing the ship off her course, and consequently
+she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually became more
+expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other officers were
+on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was immediately swept by
+a monstrous sea which made a clean breach over her. Instinctively
+those on the bridge clutched the rails, and for several moments
+they were completely submerged while the spray dashed as high as
+the upper topsails.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On November 12 the <i>Discovery</i> was in lat. 51 S., long. 131
+E., and had arrived in such an extremely
+<a name="page_34"><span class="page">Page 34</span></a>
+interesting magnetic area that they steered to the south to explore
+it. This new course took them far out of the track of ships and
+towards the regions of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those
+lonely waters when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking
+and a voice shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give
+any details of this alarming news the informant fled, and when
+Scott appeared hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was
+very dark and obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom
+were as ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered
+that the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily
+extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these
+days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of
+fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too
+serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth
+the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this was
+the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised in the
+<i>Discovery</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the following
+morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic shape by the
+action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with much excitement
+and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs of a heavier pack
+were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were all about the ship,
+and she was pushing her way amongst them and receiving her baptism
+of ice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_35"><span class="page">Page 35</span></a>
+This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded
+how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings.
+'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in a
+ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and again
+a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding of the
+floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more subdued
+hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for the first
+time we felt something of the solemnity of these great Southern
+solitudes.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Discovery</i> was now within 200 miles of Ad&eacute;lie
+Land, and with steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But
+delays had already been excessive, and they could not be added to
+if New Zealand was to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's
+head was again turned towards the North, and soon passed into looser
+ice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans
+is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are these
+roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but in the
+majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for hours gather
+close about her. The greater number are of the petrel tribe, and
+vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their huge spread
+of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson stormy petrel,
+which flits under the foaming crests of the waves. For centuries
+these birds have been the friends of sailors, and as Wilson was
+able to distinguish and
+<a name="page_36"><span class="page">Page 36</span></a>
+name the various visitors to the <i>Discovery</i>, the interest
+of the voyage was very greatly increased.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report of
+the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island,
+exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory
+fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised so
+much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the few
+hours necessary for landing would be amply justified.... A landing
+was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin rookeries which
+had been observed from the ship were explored with much interest.
+One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully marked King penguin,
+while the other contained a smaller gold-crested broad-billed
+species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned to the ship, and shortly
+after we weighed anchor and proceeded. Including those collected
+in the ice, we had no fewer than 50 birds of various sorts to be
+skinned, and during the next few days several officers and men
+were busily engaged in this work under the superintendence of Dr.
+Wilson. The opportunity was taken of serving out the flesh of the
+penguins for food. I had anticipated considerable prejudice on
+the part of the men to this form of diet which it will so often
+be essential to enforce, and was agreeably surprised to find that
+they were by no means averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent,
+and all seemed to appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste
+for it. I found no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my own.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_37"><span class="page">Page 37</span></a>
+Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to
+Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was most
+comically divided between a desire to run away from the penguins,
+and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved him to be very
+courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and last experience
+of penguins, for it was felt that he would be unable to live in
+the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was found for him in New
+Zealand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Late on November 29 the <i>Discovery</i> arrived off Lyttelton
+Heads, and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty
+in the harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which was
+shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of gratitude
+can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in every possible
+way, efficient and kindly assistance was given, and this was all
+the more valuable because a lot of work had to be done before the
+ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging had to be thoroughly
+overhauled and refitted; the magneticians had to undertake the
+comparison of their delicate instruments, and as this was the last
+occasion on which it could be done special attention was necessary;
+and a large quantity of stores had to be shipped, because some
+of those in the <i>Discovery</i> had been damaged by the leaky
+state of the ship. This leak had never been dangerous, but all the
+same it had entailed many weary hours of pumping, and had caused
+much waste of time and of provisions. Among the many skilled
+<a name="page_38"><span class="page">Page 38</span></a>
+workmen, whose united labour had produced the solid structure of
+the <i>Discovery</i>'s hull, had been one who had shirked his task,
+and although the ship was docked and most determined and persistent
+efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded in avoiding detection.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a very
+busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton arrived,
+though not for the final departure from civilization, because a
+short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the south to complete
+the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, the ship lay alongside
+the wharf ready for sea and very deeply laden. 'One could reflect
+that it would have been impossible to have got more into her, and
+that all we had got seemed necessary for the voyage, for the rest
+we could only trust that Providence would vouch-safe to us fine
+weather and an easy passage to the south.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm for
+the expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of the
+<i>Discovery</i>, while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with
+passengers, and with bands playing and whistles hooting, also
+accompanied her, until the open sea was reached and the <i>Discovery</i>
+slowly steamed out between the war-ships that seemed to stand as
+sentinels to the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands of
+friends were hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy
+happened. Among the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging to
+wave their farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner, who,
+<a name="page_39"><span class="page">Page 39</span></a>
+more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the crow's-nest
+to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the truck, he had
+remained cheering, until in a moment of madness he raised himself
+into a standing position, and almost directly afterwards he fell
+and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday the ship arrived
+at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with naval honours.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By noon on the following day the <i>Discovery</i> was clear of
+the harbor bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail
+towards the south. The last view of civilization, the last sight
+of fields and flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and
+Christmas Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern
+Ocean, though after such a recent parting from so many kind friends
+no one felt inclined for the customary festivities.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In good sea trim the <i>Discovery</i> had little to fear from the
+worst gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had
+she encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very
+unpleasant. Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have been
+lost; the masses of wood on the superstructure would have been in
+great danger, while all the sheep and possibly many of the dogs
+would have been drowned. Fine weather, however, continued, and on
+January 3 Scott and his companions crossed the Antarctic Circle,
+little thinking how long a time would elapse before they would
+recross it. At length they had entered the Antarctic regions; before
+them lay
+<a name="page_40"><span class="page">Page 40</span></a>
+the scene of their work, and all the trials of preparation, and
+the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the fact that they had
+reached their goal in time to make use of the best part of the
+short open season in these icebound regions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that
+there were many large pools of open water. And then for several
+days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high
+praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect gem
+in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem to give
+quite the best combination possible for such a purpose. We have
+certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we have come
+through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with a gale of
+wind behind him.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack, and
+the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual
+interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors was
+the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage relieved
+only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These little
+birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern fulmar
+and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that unwholesome
+scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by; while the skua
+gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally flapped past, on
+his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge his hard-earned
+dinner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at
+<a name="page_41"><span class="page">Page 41</span></a>
+first afar and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity
+drew them to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little
+visitors would again and again leap into the water, and journey
+from floe to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange
+apparition could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in
+imitating their calls, and could not only attract them from a long
+distance, but would visibly add to their astonishment when they
+approached. These were busy days for the penguins.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours
+asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or white
+seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there is found
+the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins and even
+on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious to observe
+that both seals and penguins regard themselves as safe when out of
+the water. In the sea they are running risks all the time, and in
+that element Nature has made them swift to prey or to avoid being
+preyed upon. But once on ice or land they have known no enemy,
+and cannot therefore conceive one. The seal merely raises its head
+when anyone approaches, and then with but little fear; whereas it
+is often difficult to drive the penguin into the water, for he
+is firmly convinced that the sea is the sole source of danger.
+Several seals were killed for food, and from the first seal-meat
+was found palatable, if not altogether the form of diet to recommend
+to an epicure. The great drawback to the seal is that there is no
+fat except blubber,
+<a name="page_42"><span class="page">Page 42</span></a>
+and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell.
+At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste
+and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked
+with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this
+smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver
+and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen, and
+soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft the glad
+tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship entered
+a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces, and after
+pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached the hard
+line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south nothing but
+a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same evening the
+joy of being again in the open sea was intensified by a shout of
+'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly gathered
+there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent. The
+sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless sky, and
+far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high mountain
+peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was now directed for
+Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing to the reappearance
+of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was eventually steered into
+the open water within the bay.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare, within
+which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea, is a curious
+triangular
+<a name="page_43"><span class="page">Page 43</span></a>
+spit, probably the morainic remains of the vaster ice conditions
+of former ages. It was on this spit that the expedition sent forth
+by Sir George Newnes and commanded by Borchgrevink spent their
+winter in 1896, the first party to winter on the shores of the
+Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided to land for a short time,
+and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and Barne were at work among
+the thousands of penguins that abounded, while the naturalists
+wandered further afield in search of specimens. In the center of
+Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members of Borchgrevink's
+party was still found to be standing in very good condition, though
+at the best of times deserted dwellings are far from cheerful to
+contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member of this small party of
+eight, and on the spot he recalled the past, and told of the unhappy
+death of Hanson&mdash;one of his comrades.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's
+grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder
+containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were told
+to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the following
+year this cylinder was found by the <i>Morning</i>,[1] and so the
+first information was given that the <i>Discovery</i> had succeeded
+in reaching these southern regions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: The relief ship.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the ship
+again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape Adare
+in the hope of finding
+<a name="page_44"><span class="page">Page 44</span></a>
+a clear channel near at hand. Very soon, however, the tidal stream
+began to make from the south, and the whole aspect of the streams
+of heavy pack-ice rapidly changed. Almost immediately the pack was
+about the ship, and she was being rapidly borne along with it.
+Across the entrance to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs,
+and it was in this direction that she was being carried. For the
+first time they faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its
+mighty powers. Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around
+them were heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and
+turn as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in
+front of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for
+nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained
+aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room,
+as usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the
+<i>Discovery</i> exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in
+spite of these efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost
+certain that she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was
+one of those hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for
+ever on the memory. Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, its
+rays were reflected from a myriad points of tire glistening pack;
+behind us lay the lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown sun-kissed
+cliffs of the Cape, and the placid glassy waters of the bay; the air
+about us was almost breathlessly still; crisp, clear and sun-lit,
+it seemed an atmosphere in which all Nature should rejoice;
+<a name="page_45"><span class="page">Page 45</span></a>
+the silence was broken only by the deep panting of our engines
+and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes; yet, beneath
+all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us on to possible
+destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that danger could exist
+in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one paced to and fro on
+the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted our bridge, it was
+difficult to persuade oneself that we were so completely impotent.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually
+on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour was
+early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below, happily
+oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the fact that
+they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely made in the
+<i>Discovery</i>, if it could by any conceivable means be avoided.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it came
+so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened. Little
+by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked floes fell
+slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the ship began
+to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For me,' Scott
+adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no doubt, a salutary
+one; we were here to fight the elements with their icy weapons,
+and once and for all this taught me not to undervalue the enemy.'
+During the forenoon the ship was within seven or eight miles of
+the high bold coast-line to the south of Cape Adare, but later
+she had to be turned outwards
+<a name="page_46"><span class="page">Page 46</span></a>
+so that the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could
+be avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the
+land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross
+had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty to
+talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to a brisk
+S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being used.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that of
+coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to use only
+one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was saved but time
+was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the <i>Discovery</i>
+could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on the 12th she
+scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had increased and
+a heavy swell was coming up from the south.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs
+of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as
+they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines
+were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from the
+cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their sledge
+journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as regards
+distance, and what very false appearances distant objects could
+assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that Polar
+explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the evidence
+of their own eyes, and it also explains the errors which the
+<i>Discovery</i> expedition found to
+<a name="page_47"><span class="page">Page 47</span></a>
+have been made by former explorers, and which they knew must have
+been made in all good faith.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of
+Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to such
+a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs with
+such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to keep her
+in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon the wind
+force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued to lose ground
+they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the spray over them
+in showers, to freeze as it fell.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg they
+were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of another. As
+they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear of its pinnacled
+sides, and they took the shock broad on their bows. It sent the
+ship reeling round, but luckily on the right tack to avoid further
+complications. The following night was dismal enough; again and
+again small bergs appeared through the blinding spray and drift, and
+only with great difficulty could the unmanageable ship be brought
+to clear them. Even gales, however, must have an end, and towards
+morning the wind moderated, and once more they were able to steam
+up close to the island. And there, between two tongues of ice off
+Cape Wadworth, they landed on the steep rocks and erected a staff
+bearing a tin cylinder with a further record of the voyage. By
+the time this had been done the wind had fallen completely, and in
+<a name="page_48"><span class="page">Page 48</span></a>
+the evening the ship entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and
+the barrier-ice, and later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet
+in the barrier-ice itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered
+spot, and night, as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was
+turned into day so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed
+a terrible desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot
+only to murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow
+with blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity,
+for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals would
+be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and undoubtedly
+the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being
+obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out to
+sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told that
+the work was completed, but that some five hours before Wilson,
+Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and that no one
+had thought of picking them up. Although the sun had been shining
+brightly all night, the temperature had been down to 18&deg;, and
+afar off Scott could see four disconsolate figures tramping about,
+and trying to keep themselves warm on a detached floe not more
+than fifteen yards across.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very
+evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been warmed
+by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences. They
+<a name="page_49"><span class="page">Page 49</span></a>
+had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when they
+thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that they
+had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they were
+dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson, who
+did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing fire
+with a small pocket magnifying glass&mdash;a performance which
+testified not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power of
+the sun in these latitudes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from
+the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in
+the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A
+way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison,
+among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen; across
+the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald, while
+to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform outline
+of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost perfect
+volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no competing
+height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the most magnificent
+landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold, sharp headland,
+projects from the foot of the mountain on its eastern side, and
+finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott decided to turn to the
+south to pass around this cape.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting,
+since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically
+unknown. Pack-ice was
+<a name="page_50"><span class="page">Page 50</span></a>
+still a formidable obstacle, but on the 20th the <i>Discovery</i>
+pushed her way into an inlet where she met ice which had been formed
+inside and but recently broken up. The ice was perfectly smooth, and
+as it showed absolutely no sign of pressure there was no doubting
+that this inlet would make a secure wintering harbor. Already a
+latitude had been reached in which it was most desirable to find
+safe winter quarters for the ship. In England many people had thought
+that Wood Bay would be the most southerly spot where security was
+likely to be found, but Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to
+the south of that place to realize the impossibility of traveling
+along it in sledges, and to convince him that if any advance to
+the south was to be made, a harbor in some higher latitude must
+be found.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and
+secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his thankfulness
+that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded as we should
+have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have obtained only the
+most local records of climatic conditions, and our meteorological
+observations would have been comparatively valueless; but the greatest
+drawback would have been that we should be completely cut off from
+traveling over the sea-ice beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It
+is when one remembers how naturally a decision to return to this
+place might have been made, that one sees how easily the results
+of the expedition might have been missed.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_51"><span class="page">Page 51</span></a>
+It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default
+of a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so
+with Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle
+with the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo
+Sound, and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared
+from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now
+within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their
+winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they
+returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought
+we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal
+in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before
+us lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay
+beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_52"><span class="page">Page 52</span></a>
+CHAPTER III
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Beholde I see the haven near at hand<br />
+To which I mean my wearie course to bend;<br />
+Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land<br />
+To which afore is fairly to be ken'd.<br />
+&nbsp;&mdash;SPENSER, Faerie Queene.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had
+already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A
+coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance,
+and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard to
+its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of mountains;
+and the positions and forms of individual heights, with the curious
+ice formations and the general line of the coast, had been observed.
+In short the map of the Antarctic had already received valuable
+additions, and whatever was to happen in the future that, at any
+rate, was all to the good.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the
+westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post
+and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so
+that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing had
+<a name="page_53"><span class="page">Page 53</span></a>
+been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the center
+of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the sea, and
+here the post was set up and anchored with numerous boulders. In
+spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few hundred yards it
+was almost impossible to distinguish it; but although this small
+post on the side of a vast mountain looked a hopeless clue, it
+eventually brought the <i>Morning</i> into McMurdo Sound.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and
+began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set off
+in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and Wilson
+scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of the highest
+of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded by a first view
+of the Great Ice Barrier.[1]
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of
+still greater length.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before us in
+the south we were most keenly interested in solving the mysteries
+of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been discussed
+and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on the slender
+foundation of fact which alone the meager information concerning it
+could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary ice-formation
+was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight and the very
+vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to our sense of
+its mystery.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the
+<a name="page_54"><span class="page">Page 54</span></a>
+ice-face of the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed
+it was arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the
+ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe
+and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four
+hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this
+manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit of
+the barrier was made.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they were
+far more eager to gain new information than to prove that old
+information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began to arise
+against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described as 'probably
+higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was known with absolute
+certainty that these mountains did not exist. This error on the part
+of such a trustworthy and cautious observer, Scott ascribes to
+the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the height of the barrier,
+was led to suppose that anything seen over it at a distance must
+be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds, 'whatever the cause, the
+facts show again how deceptive appearances may be and how easily
+errors may arise. In fact, as I have said before, one cannot always
+afford to trust the evidence of one's own eyes.' Though the ship
+was steaming along this ice-wall for several days, the passage was
+not in the least monotonous, because new variations were continually
+showing themselves, and all of them had to be carefully observed and
+recorded. This work continued for several days until, on January
+29, they arrived at a particularly interesting place, to
+<a name="page_55"><span class="page">Page 55</span></a>
+the southward and eastward of the extreme position reached by Ross
+in 1842. From that position he had reported a strong appearance
+of land to the southeast, and consequently all eyes were directed
+over the icy cliffs in that direction. But although the afternoon
+was bright and clear, nothing from below or from aloft could be
+seen, and the only conclusion to be made was that the report was
+based on yet another optical illusion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report that
+Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations, there was
+on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense of impending
+change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening, and we could not
+fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had not so far encountered
+the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported in this region, and that
+consequently we were now sailing in an open sea into an unknown
+world.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came at
+8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and becoming
+more and more irregular continued in that direction for about five
+miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into the deep bay
+thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached they saw at
+once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot descended
+to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the water, and behind
+it the snow surface rose in long undulating slopes to rounded ridges,
+the heights of which could only be guessed. Whatever doubt remained
+in their minds that this was snow-covered land, a sounding of 100
+fathoms quickly removed it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_56"><span class="page">Page 56</span></a>
+But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there
+was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy
+outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce
+optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe,
+a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what
+lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the
+fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen,
+and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal that
+two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken
+for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till
+someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all
+glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous,
+until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more definite
+shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at real live
+rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered land.... It is
+curious to reflect now on the steps which led us to the discovery
+of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence which came to us
+before the actual land itself was seen: at first there had been
+the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently rising snow-slopes,
+of which, in the nature of things, one is obliged to retain a doubt;
+then the steeper broken slopes of snow, giving a contrast to convey
+a surer evidence to the eye; and, finally the indubitable land
+itself, but even then surrounded with such mystery as to leave us
+far from complete satisfaction with our discovery.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_57"><span class="page">Page 57</span></a>
+The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost
+irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them,
+Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back
+along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than
+on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed on
+the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon ascent
+were made. 'The honour,' Scott says, 'of being the first aeronaut to
+make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps somewhat selfishly,
+I chose for myself, and I may further confess that in so doing
+I was contemplating the first ascent I had made in any region,
+and as I swayed about in what appeared a very inadequate basket
+and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures below, I felt
+some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut,
+it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the barrier
+surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he discovered
+that instead of the continuous level plain that he had expected,
+it continued in a series of long undulations running approximately
+east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface. Later on, however,
+when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage returned, they reported
+that these undulations were not gradual as had been supposed from
+the balloon, but that the crest of each wave was flattened into a
+long plateau, from which the descent into the succeeding valley
+was comparatively sharp. On the evening of the 4th they put out
+<a name="page_58"><span class="page">Page 58</span></a>
+to sea again, and on the 8th they were once more in McMurdo Sound,
+with high hopes that they would soon find a sheltered nook in which
+the <i>Discovery</i> could winter safely, and from which the
+sledge-parties could set forth upon the task of exploring the vast
+new world around them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate surroundings,
+and found a little bay which promised so well for the winter that
+Scott's determination to remain in this region was at once strengthened.
+The situation, however, was surrounded with difficulties, for although
+the ice had broken far afield it refused to move out of the small
+bay on which they had looked with such eager eyes; consequently
+they were forced to cling to the outskirts of the bay with their
+ice-anchors, in depths that were too great to allow the large anchors
+to be dropped to the bottom. The weather also was troublesome,
+for after the ship had lain quietly during several hours a sudden
+squall would fling her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting
+the ice-anchors, would ultimately send her adrift.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position,
+steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted
+mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in pieces.
+The original intention had been that the <i>Discovery</i> should
+not winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and
+turn northward before the season closed, and for this party a large
+hut had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to
+keep the
+<a name="page_59"><span class="page">Page 59</span></a>
+ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be
+made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since
+until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her off
+her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking winter
+quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly convinced that
+the season was closing in. 'With no experience to guide us, our
+opinion could only be based on the very severe and unseasonable
+conditions which we had met with to the east. But now to our
+astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy freezing of the bay;
+the summer seemed to have taken a new lease, and for several weeks
+the fast sea-ice continued to break silently and to pass quietly
+away to the north in large floes.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which
+had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together.
+The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was
+so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot of
+persuasion before the joints would fit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all the
+dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below the
+huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be done,
+and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The hut-building
+is slow work, and much of our time has been taken in securing the
+ship.... Names have been given to the various landmarks in our
+vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be called "Cape Armitage,"
+after our excellent navigator. The sharp hill above it
+<a name="page_60"><span class="page">Page 60</span></a>
+is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the "Gap," through which
+we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively low level. North
+of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher volcanic peak
+beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet in height. Our
+protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with "Arrival Bay" on
+the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south; above "Arrival
+Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue with breaks for
+about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond which rises the most
+conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a high, precipitous-sided
+rock with a flat top, which has been dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is
+1,350 feet in height.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible
+to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton
+is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the
+men run him close.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went out,
+and on their return three days later they were so excited by their
+experiences that some time passed before they could answer the
+questions put to them. Although the temperature had not been severe
+they had nearly got into serious trouble by continuing their march
+in a snowstorm, and when they did stop to camp they were so exhausted
+that frost-bites were innumerable. The tent had been difficult to
+get up, and all sorts of trouble with the novel cooking apparatus
+had followed. 'It is strange now,' Scott wrote three years later,
+'to look back on
+<a name="page_61"><span class="page">Page 61</span></a>
+these first essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered
+we were by want of experience.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as a
+quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal, had been
+landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and arrangements for
+the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself, were pushed forward.
+The object of this journey was to try and reach the record at Cape
+Crozier over the barrier, and to leave a fresh communication there
+with details of the winter quarters. On the following day, however,
+Scott damaged his right knee while skiing, and had to give up all
+idea of going to Cape Crozier. 'I already foresaw how much there
+was to be learnt if we were to do good sledding work in the spring,
+and to miss such an opportunity of gaining experience was terribly
+trying; however, there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded
+limb and to determine that never again would I be so rash as to
+run hard snow-slopes on ski.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed. The
+party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton and
+Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each pulling
+a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again the want
+of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the lack of system
+was apparent. Though each requirement might have been remembered, all
+were packed in a confused mass, and, to use a sailor's expression,
+'everything was on top and nothing handy.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_62"><span class="page">Page 62</span></a>
+Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On looking
+back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so cheaply,
+for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as well as of
+discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our first sledge
+parties left the ship.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The days following the departure of the sledge party were exceptionally
+fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board the ship woke to
+find the wind blowing from the east; and in the afternoon the wind
+increased, and the air was filled with thick driving snow. This
+Tuesday was destined to be one of the blackest days spent by the
+expedition in the Antarctic, but no suspicion that anything untoward
+had happened to the sledge party arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there
+was a report that four men were walking towards the ship. Then the
+sense of trouble was immediate, and the first disjointed sentences
+of the newcomers were enough to prove that disasters had occurred.
+The men, as they emerged from their thick clothing, were seen to
+be Wild, Weller, Heald and Plumley, but until Scott had called
+Wild, who was the most composed of the party, aside, he could not
+get any idea of what had actually happened, and even Wild was too
+exhausted, and excited to give anything but a meager account.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine, In
+charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day had reached
+the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock. In addition, Wild
+told him, to the four who had returned, the party had
+<a name="page_63"><span class="page">Page 63</span></a>
+consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince. They had thought
+that they were quite close to the ship, and when the blizzard began
+they had left their tents and walked towards her supposed position.
+Then they found themselves on a steep slope and tried to keep close
+together, but it was impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare
+had disappeared, and a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and
+Quartley had left them to try to find out what had become of Evans,
+and neither of them had come back, though they waited. Afterwards
+they had gone on, and had suddenly found themselves at the edge
+of a precipice with the sea below; Vince had shot past over the
+edge. Wild feared all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had
+gone. Could he guide a search party to the scene of the accident?
+He thought he could&mdash;at any rate he would like to try.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The information was little enough but it was something on which
+to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought
+until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before 9
+P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party, and
+Armitage took charge of it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was
+known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced.
+On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow,
+and after three days of excessive labour Royds had decided that
+the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but
+unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski
+<a name="page_64"><span class="page">Page 64</span></a>
+with the party, and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with
+Koettlitz and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge
+of Barne.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning
+party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were
+abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the
+top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when
+a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch
+little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour
+after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they expected
+each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents bodily away,
+and meanwhile the chill air crept through their leather boots and
+ill-considered clothing, and continually some frost-bitten limb
+had to be nursed back to life.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits,
+but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything
+into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make
+for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the
+men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as
+it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance
+than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they
+had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who
+<a name="page_65"><span class="page">Page 65</span></a>
+had been at the rear of the party, was reported to be missing,
+and soon afterwards Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth
+ice, fell, and shot out of sight immediately.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were,
+sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track. In
+a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a pace
+that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush he had
+time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then his flight was
+arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within a few feet of him.
+They had scarcely exchanged greetings when the figure of Quartley
+came hurtling down upon them from the gloom, for he had started on
+the same track, and had been swept down in the same breathless
+and alarming manner. To return by the way they had come down was
+impossible, and so they decided to descend, but within four paces
+of the spot at which they had been brought to rest, they found
+that the slope ended suddenly in a steep precipice, beyond which
+nothing but clouds of snow could be seen. For some time after this
+they sat huddled together, forlornly hoping that the blinding drift
+would cease, but at last they felt that whatever happened they
+must keep on the move, and groping their way to the right they
+realized that the sea was at their feet, and that they had been
+saved from it by a patch of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff.
+Presently a short break in the storm enabled them to see Castle
+Rock above their heads, and slowly making their way
+<a name="page_66"><span class="page">Page 66</span></a>
+up the incline, they sought the shelter of a huge boulder; and there,
+crouched together, they remained for several hours.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the
+head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls
+of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they felt
+that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain where
+they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the leading
+spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained submitted
+themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him in single file
+as he again struck out in the direction in which they supposed the
+ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for about 500 yards,
+until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath his feet, and far
+below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. He sprang back with
+a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince had flashed past and
+disappeared.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at all
+costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just come. All
+of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror, and wondered
+how it had ever been made. They could only hold themselves by the
+soles of their boots, and to slip to their knees meant inevitably
+to slide backwards towards the certain fate below. Literally their
+lives depended on each foothold. Wild alone had a few light nails
+in his boots, and to his great credit he used this advantage to
+give a helping hand in turn to each
+<a name="page_67"><span class="page">Page 67</span></a>
+of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they did reach
+the top of the slope their troubles were not finished, for they
+were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild, however,
+again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that the party
+eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of snow. 'It
+is little wonder that after such an experience they should have
+been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search party
+on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully conscious
+of his inability to help on account of his injured leg, admits that
+he could not think of any further means to render assistance, but
+he says, 'as was always my experience in the <i>Discovery</i>, my
+companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon the shrill screams
+of the siren were echoing among the hills, and in ten minutes after
+the suggestion had been made, a whaler was swinging alongside ready
+to search the cliffs on the chance of finding Vince.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there
+was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow, and
+fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without,
+and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost&mdash;Barne, Evans
+and Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having
+done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search
+was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of seeing
+<a name="page_68"><span class="page">Page 68</span></a>
+Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be realized
+that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was also no
+disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might have happened.
+Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party were alive to
+tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley heard the
+faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its welcome sound
+made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge party would
+in all probability not have found them. All three of them were
+badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was in such a serious
+condition that for many days it was thought that his fingers would
+have to be amputated.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March 13
+Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has happened.
+At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. At first we
+thought it must be some one who had been for an early walk; but
+it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly, and,
+immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were seen
+streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized the figure
+as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was on board.... We
+soon discovered that though exhausted, weak, and hungry, he was in
+full possession of his faculties and quite free from frost-bites.
+He went placidly off to sleep whilst objecting to the inadequacy
+of a milk diet.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained
+that he had left his companions
+<a name="page_69"><span class="page">Page 69</span></a>
+to return to the sledges and get some leather boots, and had imagined
+that the others understood what he intended to do. Soon after he had
+started back he was wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that
+he was walking aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered
+was making for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and
+there he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though
+he required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of
+this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on
+raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks,
+and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards
+her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged to
+travel upon his hands and knees.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally
+and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate,
+and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing
+to him, and it is something to think that death must have come
+quickly in the grip of that icy sea.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the
+three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when,
+on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The
+others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them were
+soon safely on board.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to
+reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until
+it was evident that a better
+<a name="page_70"><span class="page">Page 70</span></a>
+equipped party with more favorable weather would easily get to
+it. On comparing notes with his party, Scott recognized what a
+difference there might be in the weather conditions of places within
+easy reach of the ship, and not only in temperature but also in
+the force and direction of the wind. It had not occurred to anyone
+that within such a short distance of the ship any large difference
+of temperature was probable, and as the summer was barely over,
+Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton had only taken a light wolf-skin fur
+suit for night-wear. This, however, had proved totally inadequate
+when the thermometer fell to -42&deg;, and on the night of the
+16th uncontrollable paroxysms of shivering had prevented them from
+getting any sleep. The value of proper clothing and the wisdom of
+being prepared for the unexpected rigors of such a fickle climate,
+were two of the lessons learnt from the experiences of the Cape
+Crozier party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether
+the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such an
+advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected state of
+affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of their position
+was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since necessitated the
+extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a heavy gale drove the
+ship from her shelter, steam could only be raised with difficulty
+and after the lapse of many hours. There was, too, the possibility
+that the ship, if once driven off, would not be able to return,
+and so it was obviously unsafe
+<a name="page_71"><span class="page">Page 71</span></a>
+to send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift
+most of them would be needed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet
+of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological
+screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific
+work which was such an important object of the expedition.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort before
+the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a dep&ocirc;t
+of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring, but 'a
+more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had not been
+away already a practical insight into the difficulties of sledge
+traveling. But as this party would have to include the majority of
+those on board, he was forced to wait until the ship was firmly
+fixed, and it may be said that the <i>Discovery</i> was as reluctant
+to freeze-in as she was difficult to get out when once the process
+had been completed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The
+sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice should
+become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have completed
+the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am pleased with
+their appearance; the packing is not neat enough, and we haven't
+got anything like a system.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each
+with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads
+were arranged on the theory
+<a name="page_72"><span class="page">Page 72</span></a>
+of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs. to each dog, but they very
+quickly discovered that the dogs were not going to have anything
+to do with such a theory as this. The best of them would only pull
+about 50 lbs., and some of the others had practically to be pulled.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and
+dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner
+of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement
+caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another
+reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing
+their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly
+cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great
+deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or
+two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to
+realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats
+grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled
+down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally
+thick woolly covering.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men
+had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had
+no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however,
+was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the
+ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or
+another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing
+to show for our labours. The errors were patent; food, clothing,
+everything was
+<a name="page_73"><span class="page">Page 73</span></a>
+wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that there would
+have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring, and it
+was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which this
+might be effected.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone
+resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the experience
+that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys subsequently
+made in the spring were largely due to the failures of the autumn.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_74"><span class="page">Page 74</span></a>
+CHAPTER IV
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE POLAR WINTER</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+The cold ice slept below,<br />
+Above the cold sky shone,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And all around<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;With a chilling sound<br />
+From caves of ice and fields of snow<br />
+The breath of night like death did flow<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Beneath the sinking moon.&mdash;SHELLEY.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time
+could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by
+the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before
+the daylight vanished.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological
+screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds.
+The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100
+yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which,
+with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of
+her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations
+was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition,
+and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded
+every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm
+<a name="page_75"><span class="page">Page 75</span></a>
+some member of the community had to be on the alert, and every
+other hour to make the rounds of the various instruments. On a
+fine night this was no great hardship, but in stormy weather the
+task was not coveted by anyone. On such occasions it was necessary
+to be prepared to resist the wind and snowdrift, and the round
+itself was often full of exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials
+and tribulations of the meteorological observers were numerous,
+and it was arranged that throughout the winter each officer should
+take it in turn to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6
+A.M. Wilson nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation,
+but the lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides
+taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first
+winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations
+between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's
+special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying
+to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general
+reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain
+small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely be
+answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth is
+a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why it is
+a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and obviously
+the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a phenomenon is to
+study it. For many reasons the <i>Discovery</i>'s winter station in the
+<a name="page_76"><span class="page">Page 76</span></a>
+Antarctic was an especially suitable place in which to record the
+phenomenon of magnetism.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations
+had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during
+the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little
+company had settled down to a regular round of daily life.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for
+the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after;
+during these hours all without exception are busily employed except
+for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would be difficult
+to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the palm would be
+given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough sketch made
+since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and detailed form,
+until we now possess a splendid pictorial representation of the
+whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At home many no doubt will
+remember the horrible depression of spirit that has sometimes been
+pictured as a pendant to the long polar night. We cannot even claim
+to be martyrs in this respect; with plenty of work the days pass
+placidly and cheerfully.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of
+the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were
+to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched
+from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration for
+the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is a
+thing assured. Our little society in the
+<a name="page_77"><span class="page">Page 77</span></a>
+wardroom is governed by a spirit of good fellowship and patience
+which is all that the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly
+glad to be one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The
+absence of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout
+is beyond even my best expectation.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable
+feature of life during the time spent in the <i>Discovery</i>, and
+the only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We
+shipped him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained
+cook became too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly
+for the worse; I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is
+even worse, he is dirty&mdash;an unforgivable crime in a cook.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have
+been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather
+was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North
+Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in
+the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm
+days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little
+reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all of
+whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts,
+and to make the best of a long job.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each
+day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's work
+ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,' the
+officers doing
+<a name="page_78"><span class="page">Page 78</span></a>
+their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon the living-spaces
+were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were searched, and while
+the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became a 'snipe marsh.'
+At this time the holds also were cleared up, the bilges pumped
+out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh layer of clean
+snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled by the traffic
+of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands followed, and
+after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the time-honoured one
+of 'Sweethearts and Wives.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer or
+a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be different
+from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30 the decks
+had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and the first
+lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble imitation of
+the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection followed, and
+Scott had the greatest faith in this system of routine, not only
+because it had a most excellent effect on the general discipline and
+cleanliness of the ship, but also because it gave an opportunity
+to raise and discuss each new arrangement that was made to increase
+the comfort of all on board.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was prepared
+for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all placed
+according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read the service,
+Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_79"><span class="page">Page 79</span></a>
+Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the
+feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus
+sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should last
+us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of the
+sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that
+we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites
+on Sunday.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the mess-deck
+was decorated with designs in coloured papers and festooned with
+chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes there was
+a great contest to have the best decorations, and some astonishing
+results were achieved with little more than brightly coloured papers,
+a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each table stood a grotesque
+figure or fanciful erection of ice, which was cunningly lighted up
+by candles from within and sent out shafts of sparkling light.
+'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the light-hearted scenes of to-day
+can end the first period of our captivity, what room for doubt
+is there that we shall triumphantly weather the whole term with
+the same general happiness and contentment?'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the winter months the <i>South Polar Times</i>, edited by
+Shackleton, appeared regularly, and was read with interest and
+amusement by everyone. At first it had been decided that each number
+should contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the events and
+meteorological conditions of the past month, some scientifically
+instructive articles dealing with the work
+<a name="page_80"><span class="page">Page 80</span></a>
+and surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the
+scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures
+and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in
+connection with the <i>Times</i> was that the men contributed as
+well as the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most
+amusing, articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck.
+But beyond all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson,
+who produced drawings that deserved&mdash;and ultimately
+obtained&mdash;a far wider appreciation than could be given to
+them in the Antarctic. So great was the desire to contribute to
+the first number of the <i>S. P. T.</i> that the editor's box was
+crammed with manuscripts by the time the date for sending in
+contributions had arrived. From these there was no difficulty in
+making a selection, but as there was also some danger of hurting
+the feelings of those whose contributions had been rejected, a
+supplementary journal named <i>The Blizzard</i> was produced. This
+publication, however, had but a brief career, for in spite of some
+good caricatures and a very humorous frontispiece by Barne, it
+was so inferior to the <i>S. P. T.</i> that even its contributors
+realized that their mission in life did not lie in the paths of
+literary composition. <i>The Blizzard</i>, in short, served its
+purpose, and then ceased to exist.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable during
+the dark months, the question of artificial light was as difficult
+as it was important. Paraffin had from the first been suggested
+as the most
+<a name="page_81"><span class="page">Page 81</span></a>
+suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage being that it is not
+a desirable oil to carry in quantities in a ship. 'Our luckiest
+find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right sort of lamp in which to
+burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic explorer, Captain Egerton,
+presented me with a patent lamp in which the draught is produced
+by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism, and no chimney is needed.
+One can imagine the great mortality there would be in chimneys
+if we were obliged to employ them, so that when, on trial, this
+lamp was found to give an excellent light, others of the same sort
+were purchased, and we now use them exclusively in all parts of
+the ship with extremely satisfactory results.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their reach
+in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain that
+they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic, did
+their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been provided
+for the hut, and which they had not previously thought of using.
+'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was relieved by
+a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue their occupations
+by the single burner placed in each compartment. I lay great stress
+on this, because I am confident that this is in every way the best
+illuminant that can be taken for a Polar winter, and no future
+expedition should fail to supply themselves with it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to
+be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave
+in his diary a full and
+<a name="page_82"><span class="page">Page 82</span></a>
+graphic account of the way he occupied himself during his 'night
+on.' 'Each of us has his own way of passing the long, silent hours.
+My own custom is to devote some of it to laundry-work, and I must
+confess I make a very poor fist of it. However, with a bath full
+of hot water, I commence pretty regularly after the ten o'clock
+observation, and labour away until my back aches. There is little
+difficulty with the handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles,
+but when it comes to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready
+to own my incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing
+at the same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff
+which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is
+never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is,
+and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring
+everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no light
+task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to the other;
+then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring until I can wring
+no more; but even so, after it has been hung for a few minutes
+on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin to drip merrily on
+the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh. I shall always have
+a high respect for laundry-work in future, but I do not think it
+can often have to cope with such thick garments as we wear.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations.
+The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which are
+scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with tea or
+cocoa and a spirit-lamp.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_83"><span class="page">Page 83</span></a>
+Everyone has his own ideas as to how sardines should be prepared...
+and I scarcely like to record that there is a small company of
+<i>gourmets</i>, who actually wake one another up in order that
+the night-watchman may present his fellow epicures with a small
+finger of buttered toast, on which are poised two sardines "done
+to a turn." The awakened sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts
+his satisfaction, and goes placidly off into dreamland again.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I find that after my labours at the wash-tub and the pleasing supper
+that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair without
+fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the ever-soothing pipe
+and one's latest demand on the library book-shelves, one settles
+down in great peace and contentment whilst keeping an eye on the
+flying hours, ready to sally forth into the outer darkness at the
+appointed time.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely
+dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure,
+but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship,
+the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties, and
+to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with his
+inclination.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced
+to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on
+the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious
+that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to
+stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature....
+<a name="page_84"><span class="page">Page 84</span></a>
+These and many other difficulties in taking observations which may
+be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I think
+we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole whose value
+must stand or fall by attention to detail.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in a
+mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted
+out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in a
+line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice. The
+earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus for
+the next two months they remained in sight. But then another gale
+brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it in the
+neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found to be
+buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no feelings
+of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott ordered the
+snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until the first
+boat had been reached was the true state of affairs revealed. She
+was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which she was nearly
+filled, and though for a moment there was a wild hope that she
+could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the air temperature
+promptly converted the slush into hardened ice, and so she was
+stuck fast.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats, because
+as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water would
+have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to worse
+before the summer brought hope with it, parties were
+<a name="page_85"><span class="page">Page 85</span></a>
+engaged day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in
+the course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger
+was that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats
+so far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and
+after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all
+appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however,
+of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the ship,
+and also the feeling that so much labour must tell in the end, spurred
+on the diggers to renewed vigour, but it was not until December
+that the boats were finally liberated.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible for
+an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again emphasized the
+bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the smaller compartment
+of the main hut completing a set of pendulum observations, while
+Royds was in the larger compartment&mdash;the hut was used for
+many and various purposes&mdash;rehearsing his nigger minstrel
+troupe. Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific work did
+not go hand in hand, or because their work was finished, Bernacchi
+and Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the hut to return
+to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards Royds and his
+troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back, and found that
+the gale had increased and that the whirling snow prevented them
+from seeing anything. Being, however, in such numbers, they were
+able to join hands and sweep along until they caught the guide-rope
+leading to the gangway;
+<a name="page_86"><span class="page">Page 86</span></a>
+and then as they traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and
+again extending their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton,
+who, having entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting
+on the chance of being heard and rescued.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter was not
+only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by guide-ropes and
+other means of direction, which if encountered would have informed
+the wanderers of their position. Additionally Bernacchi and Skelton
+could be trusted to take the most practical course in any difficulty,
+and so it seems the more incredible that they could actually have
+been lost for two hours. Both of them were severely frostbitten
+about the face and legs, but bitter as their experience was it
+served as yet another warning to those who were to go sledding
+in the spring that no risks could be taken in such a capricious
+climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing his troupe on this occasion
+the results to Bernacchi and Skelton must have been more disastrous
+than they were; consequently the idea of using the large hut as
+a place of entertainment was fortunate in more ways than one.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the first week of May a concert had been given in the hut,
+but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment; for Royds,
+who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had arranged
+a long program with the object of bringing to light any possible
+talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical had to
+confess that most of the performers would have
+<a name="page_87"><span class="page">Page 87</span></a>
+been less out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability,
+however, was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing
+a play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy,
+was produced on June 25.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy
+in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for
+one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been so
+gorgeously entertained.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe, and
+when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30 on August
+6, the temperature outside them was -40&deg;, while inside it was
+well below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder that
+the audience was glad when the curtain went up.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'There is no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance,
+'that sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had
+taken an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and
+"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable
+top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling a
+string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs led
+by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the very
+great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards
+to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days
+passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return.
+But on that
+<a name="page_88"><span class="page">Page 88</span></a>
+day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded by whirling
+snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed by a wild
+burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone on board in
+such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be far over the
+hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be seen. The following
+day, however, was an ideal one for the first view of the long-absent
+sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater Hill to watch and welcome.
+'Over all the magnificent view the sunlight spreads with gorgeous
+effect after its long absence; a soft pink envelops the western
+ranges, a brilliant red gold covers the northern sky; to the north
+also each crystal of snow sparkles with reflected light. The sky
+shows every gradation of light and shade; little flakes of golden
+sunlit cloud float against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover
+in the middle heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus
+shades to grey on its unlit sides.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut Point,
+to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no enthusiasm.
+Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual in keeping its
+appointment, but after all they had seen the sun a good many times
+before, and in the next few months they would in all probability
+see it a good many times again, and there was no sense in getting
+excited about it. Some of them did set off at a run for the point,
+while others, since it seemed the right thing to do, followed at
+a walk, but a good
+<a name="page_89"><span class="page">Page 89</span></a>
+number remained on board and had their dinner. On August 25 the
+Feast of the Sun was duly celebrated, and the days that followed
+were fuller than ever with preparations for the spring journeys. The
+only sewing-machine clattered away all day long, and the whole company
+plied their needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed
+taskmasters. The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the
+best of spirits, was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge
+journeys, and making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind
+and the weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was
+taken to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others,
+and especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons
+the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been
+immense.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding
+expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single
+sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made
+in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were
+not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory
+could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of
+time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but
+fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway.
+In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there
+received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was
+not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in
+<a name="page_90"><span class="page">Page 90</span></a>
+command of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could
+rely to provide the sledding outfit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In making these preparations for long journeys in the south, there
+was no previous experience to go upon except that which had been
+gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume that southern
+conditions would be more or less similar to those of the north,
+and in so far as they proved different the sledding outfit ran
+the risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in many respects
+the sledding conditions of the south were different from those of
+the north, and so it is only fair to consider the sledge journeys
+taken by the <i>Discovery</i> expedition as pioneer efforts. These
+differences are both climatic and geographical. For instance, the
+conditions in the south are more severe than those in the north, both
+in the lowness of the temperatures and in the distressing frequency
+of blizzards and strong winds. And the geographical difference
+between the work of the northern and the southern sledge-traveler
+is as great as the climatic, if not greater, for the main part of
+northern traveling has been and will be done on sea-ice, while
+the larger part of southern traveling has been and will be done
+over land surfaces, or what in this respect are their equivalents.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig005.jpg" width="787" height="497" alt="Figure 5">
+<br />LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEP&Ocirc;T.
+<br /><i>Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge
+over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate
+maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice,
+that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers
+<a name="page_91"><span class="page">Page 91</span></a>
+must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later
+on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over
+the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that&mdash;given
+the surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge
+parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by
+the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for
+the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions,
+and while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely
+to meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records
+is not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the
+same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled
+are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and
+of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The main differences between the sledges used by the <i>Discovery</i>
+expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in
+breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from
+the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's sledges
+were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners themselves
+were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track from side to
+side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths varied from
+12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved to be by far
+the most convenient&mdash;a length of 12 feet seeming to pass just
+beyond the limit of handiness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of sledge,
+it will be seen that it differed
+<a name="page_92"><span class="page">Page 92</span></a>
+considerably from the old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and
+3 feet broad. The weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything
+between 40 and 47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full
+strength of the structure was required. Generally speaking, the
+full load that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most
+important part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must
+be perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily;
+but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood runner
+would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow. 'Some of
+our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000 miles,
+and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In point of numbers the <i>Discovery</i>'s crew was far behind
+the old Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott
+decide, in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would
+do most of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest
+workable units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties of at
+least eight, who, having a common tent and cooking arrangements,
+could not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not necessarily to limit
+the number of men in his parties, but to divide them into units
+of three, which should be self-contained, so that whenever it was
+advisable a unit could be detached from the main party. Under such
+a system it is obvious that each unit must have its own tent,
+sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and therein lay a disadvantage,
+as economy of material and weight can
+<a name="page_93"><span class="page">Page 93</span></a>
+be better carried out with a large unit than with a small one.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two headings:
+the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the trip, and the
+consumable, including food, oil, &amp;c. The following is a list
+of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to the west,
+and it will give some idea of the variety of articles, exclusive
+of provisions. The party numbered six.
+</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center">
+ <tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td><td class="right">lbs.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Sledges with fittings complete</td>
+  <td class="right">130</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Trace</td>
+  <td class="right">5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Cookers, pannikins and spoons</td>
+  <td class="right">30</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Primus lamps, filled</td>
+  <td class="right">10</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Tents complete</td>
+  <td class="right">60</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Spades</td>
+  <td class="right">9</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>2</td>
+  <td>Sleeping-bags with night-gear</td>
+  <td class="right">100</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko[1]</td>
+  <td class="right">50</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Medical bag</td>
+  <td class="right">6</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>3</td>
+  <td>Ice-axes</td>
+  <td class="right">8</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Bamboos and marks</td>
+  <td class="right">11.5</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Instruments and camera</td>
+  <td class="right">50</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Alpine rope</td>
+  <td class="right">9</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape, sledge brakes</td>
+  <td class="right">15</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Ski boots for party</td>
+  <td class="right">15</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Ski for party</td>
+  <td class="right">60</td></tr>
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td>Total</td>
+   <td class="right">568.5</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Reindeer-fur boots.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_94"><span class="page">Page 94</span></a>
+Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his load
+was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total carrying
+capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could be devoted
+to provisions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks' food
+for a party of six, but as such a short period is often not long
+enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled to organize
+means by which their journey can be prolonged. This can be done
+in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the season and lay
+a dep&ocirc;t at a considerable distance towards their goal, or
+they may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting party,
+which accompanies them for a certain distance on the road and helps
+their advance party to drag a heavier load than they can accomplish
+alone.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important
+journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship
+for long periods and to travel long distances.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_95"><span class="page">Page 95</span></a>
+CHAPTER V
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit<br>
+To its full height...
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;...Shew us here<br />
+That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not.<br />
+For there is none so mean or base<br />
+That have not noble lustre in your eyes.<br />
+I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,<br />
+Straining upon the start.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;SHAKESPEARE.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been
+turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times the
+advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed.
+This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which
+Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the end
+of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was always
+repugnant to his nature.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not
+greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that
+they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death, is
+equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be justified
+by the gain, and I think that logically it may be;
+<a name="page_96"><span class="page">Page 96</span></a>
+but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob
+sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever
+made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception
+which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships,
+dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and by
+days and weeks of hard physical labour succeed in solving some
+problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest is
+more nobly and splendidly won.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of dogs
+had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained for the
+southern journey, all but one&mdash;and he was killed at an earlier
+period&mdash;left their bones on the great southern plains. This
+briefly is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances under
+which they met their deaths will be mentioned later on.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig006.jpg" width="817" height="521" alt="Figure 6">
+<br />SLEDDING.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make a
+short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers
+and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of harness,
+and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large or small
+teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted from September
+2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently with four dogs
+harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if the first team
+got away all right, the others were often keen to play the game
+of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was a positive
+spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two
+<a name="page_97"><span class="page">Page 97</span></a>
+competing teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural
+result that when they were near enough to see what was happening,
+they decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a
+free fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with
+a mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and
+teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even
+in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results
+showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties,
+and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which
+the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing
+and which the lazy ones.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west
+with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott
+wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a glance
+the vast improvement that has been made since last year. The sledges
+were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think of the slovenly
+manner in which we conducted things last autumn; at any rate here
+is a first result of the care and attention of the winter.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following
+day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the
+dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start
+on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the morning of that day he and his two companions,
+<a name="page_98"><span class="page">Page 98</span></a>
+Barne and Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams,
+left the ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped
+for lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer
+was down to -43&deg;.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together
+with a quantity of stores to form a dep&ocirc;t, the whole giving
+a load of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined
+to be only a short and bitter experience.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were
+so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting
+of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he
+found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of my
+sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed forth
+on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent or my
+companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it could
+mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly awoke
+me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in some
+extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding
+snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping
+across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to the
+tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and the
+tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its securing,
+that something had to be done at once to prevent it from blowing
+away altogether.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_99"><span class="page">Page 99</span></a>
+So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually
+pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it,
+they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while
+they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An
+attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible,
+while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would
+hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then they
+were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once more over
+the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly hanging on
+and warning each other of frostbitten features, their sleeping-bags
+became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were lying in masses
+of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by ceaseless exertions
+so far become masters of the situation, that there was no further
+need for the tent to be held with anything except the weight of
+their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of hands showed a number
+of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had not recovered from
+the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To have hung on to the
+tent through all those hours must have been positive agony to him,
+yet he never uttered a word of complaint.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few hours'
+sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on after this
+most miserable experience was very unwise, since by returning to
+the ship they would only lose one day's march and everything could
+be dried for a fresh start.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_100"><span class="page">Page 100</span></a>
+Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the rest
+of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and were found
+quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On the journey back the
+thermometer recorded -53&deg;, and the effect of such a temperature
+upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall remember the condition
+of my trousers for a long while; they might have been cut out of
+sheet iron. It was some time before I could walk with any sort of
+ease, and even when we reached the ship I was conscious of carrying
+an armor plate behind me.... It will certainly be a very long time
+before I go to sleep again in a tent which is not properly secured.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers
+had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain,
+Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding.
+Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and
+to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the
+morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that
+he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the south,
+with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave orders
+to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever turns and
+twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light he could see
+the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the bare ice surface,
+by slight differences in shade, and though he could not see them
+where they dived into the valleys, he found that the bridges were
+strong enough to bear. In
+<a name="page_101"><span class="page">Page 101</span></a>
+his desire to use the snowy patches as far as possible, the course
+he took was very irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut
+corners. In this manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott
+suddenly heard a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that
+Feather had vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right,
+but their leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that
+the trace had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his
+great relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon
+hauled up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through
+where it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of
+few words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to
+cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt
+that he had a very close call.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant to
+give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the four
+sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up and down
+in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing not a single
+thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which it had fallen.
+It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was, but, after some
+consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed that he should
+be let down and undertake the very cold job of unpacking it. So
+he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope, while the other was
+used for hauling up the various packages; and at last the load
+was got up, and the lightened sledge soon followed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After this incident they thought it prudent to treat these numerous
+crevasses with more respect, and on
+<a name="page_102"><span class="page">Page 102</span></a>
+proceeding they roped themselves together; but although no more
+mishaps occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute
+this to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day,
+I cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not
+the least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and
+the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion
+can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there
+were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb
+that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dep&ocirc;t, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and
+150 lbs. of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and
+besides marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful
+to take angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could
+see. Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what was
+meant no longer required any driving. On the homeward march the
+travelers went for all they were worth, and in spite of perpetual
+fog covered eighty-five statute miles in less than three days.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most delightful
+place. The sense of having done what he wanted to do had something
+to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but it was the actual
+physical comfort after days of privation that chiefly affected him.
+The joy of possessing the sledding appetite was sheer delight, and
+for many days after the travelers returned from their sledding-trips,
+they retained a hunger which it seemed impossible to satisfy.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_103"><span class="page">Page 103</span></a>
+In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with
+himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all
+his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered
+what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment,
+had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this
+was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy&mdash;the disease
+that has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part
+in the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of which
+everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations cannot
+fail to realize.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when
+he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's
+medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all
+attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but
+the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts,
+and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance
+to break out.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything in
+her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party, sent
+out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was given that
+no tinned meat of any description should be issued. By October 20
+this grave disease had to all intents and purposes passed away,
+but although evidence showed that it was
+<a name="page_104"><span class="page">Page 104</span></a>
+caused by tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best
+quality, and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities,
+there was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for
+when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health
+and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on
+the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this
+pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished
+with astonishing rapidity, it was&mdash;quite apart from the benefit
+lost to medical science&mdash;very annoying not to be able to say
+definitely from what the evil had sprung.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated,
+and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence, preparations
+for the various journeys were pushed on with no less vigour and
+enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was nothing really to
+be alarmed about, and everyone played it with the greatest success.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party
+would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance
+from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability
+no further dep&ocirc;ts could be established, it was desirable that
+this party should be supported as far as possible on their route.
+To meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party
+of twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights
+were reduced to an amount
+<a name="page_105"><span class="page">Page 105</span></a>
+which the dogs could drag without assistance. Then Barne was to
+return to the ship, and after a short rest start again with six
+men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff. As soon as this
+was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal all the men and
+material left in the ship for his attack on the western region.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks
+before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned
+with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the
+'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be
+sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had
+a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the
+expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find
+that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately after
+the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and with no
+symptom of the disease.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents
+by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased they
+were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in fact one
+tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants could be
+got into the open, while the sledges and everything left outside
+were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated round
+the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of canvas,
+and reduced the interior space to such an extent that those inside
+were obliged to lie with their knees bent double. Royds, whose
+reports were invariably very brief and to
+<a name="page_106"><span class="page">Page 106</span></a>
+the point, dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page,
+but no great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible
+discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party
+recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were
+scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were
+the amusing incidents that had happened.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and
+among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only
+testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery
+on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest
+type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity
+of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to
+face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no small
+satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the habits
+of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all others of
+the feathered tribe.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern
+journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it
+was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne
+and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left a
+few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning, amidst
+a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and employed
+it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles... Barne's
+banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack, and
+<a name="page_107"><span class="page">Page 107</span></a>
+another carried a flag with a large device stating "<i>No dogs
+needs apply</i>"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting
+sight to see nearly the whole of our small company step out on
+the march with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this
+kind promised to be done as heartily.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward
+to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he,
+Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades,
+started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on the
+floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany us
+for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great
+effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in
+spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had
+to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest
+of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all
+tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and
+still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards
+they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out
+to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the
+same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by
+bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott
+camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and re-passed
+each other, since it was
+<a name="page_108"><span class="page">Page 108</span></a>
+impossible for Scott to push on ahead of Barne's party, and the
+latter's progress was very slow, as they could get no hold with
+their fur boots, and they found their ski leather boots dreadfully
+cold for their feet. To add to the slowness of the journey the
+weather was very unfavorable, and the greater parts of the 8th and
+9th were entirely wasted by a blizzard. On the 10th Dep&ocirc;t A,
+that had previously been laid, was reached and Scott wrote: 'Already
+it seems to me that the dogs feel the monotony of a long march over
+the snow more than we do; they seem easily to get dispirited, and
+that it is not due to fatigue is shown when they catch a glimpse
+of anything novel.... To-day, for instance, they required some
+driving until they caught sight of the dep&ocirc;t flag, when they
+gave tongue loudly and dashed off as though they barely felt the
+load behind them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The names of the dogs were:
+</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center">
+ <tr><td>Nigger</td> <td>Birdie</td> <td>Wolf</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Jim</td> <td>Nell</td> <td>Vic</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Spud</td> <td>Blanco</td> <td>Bismarck</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Snatcher</td> <td>Grannie</td> <td>Kid</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Fitzclarence</td> <td>Lewis</td> <td>Boss</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Stripes</td> <td>Gus</td> <td>Brownie</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td> <td>Joe</td> <td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern
+party did not already know concerning their individualities, they
+had ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next
+few weeks.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_109"><span class="page">Page 109</span></a>
+Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally for
+himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved so
+unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things, that
+he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could scarcely
+be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move, and in
+camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow being
+shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring up
+and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark
+of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when
+the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every
+movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed
+his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push
+affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come
+along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the evening
+halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks and
+remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting
+on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew
+perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards,
+however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note
+could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if
+disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first
+of all.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly
+clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up
+to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at
+pretending to pull;
+<a name="page_110"><span class="page">Page 110</span></a>
+Spud was generally considered to be daft; Birdie evidently had been
+treated badly in his youth and remained distrustful and suspicious
+to the end; Kid was the most indefatigable worker in the team; Wolf's
+character possessed no redeeming point of any kind, while Brownie
+though a little too genteel for very hard work was charming as a pet,
+and it may also be said of him that he never lost an opportunity
+of using his pleasant appearance and delightful ways to lighten his
+afflictions. The load for this dog team after Dep&ocirc;t A had
+been passed was 1,850 lbs., which, considering that some of the
+dogs were of little use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten
+that the men also expected to pull, and that each night the weight
+would be reduced by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers
+were nearly up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south
+than anyone had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused
+great jubilation, and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer
+than fifteen of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the
+record.' A photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then
+half of the supporting party started to return, and the other half
+stepped out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned
+back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's
+work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is
+evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme
+toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_111"><span class="page">Page 111</span></a>
+We have decided that if things have not improved in the morning
+we will take on half a load at a time; after a few days of this
+sort of thing the loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to
+continue in the old way again.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads promptly
+and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to divide the
+load into two portions and take half on at a time. This meant, of
+course, that each mile had to be traveled three times, but there
+was no alternative to this tedious form of advance. Even, however,
+with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost all their spirit,
+and at the end of the march on the 18th they were practically 'done.'
+Only five geographical miles[1] were gained on that day, but to
+do it they had to cover fifteen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: 7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute
+miles.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse, and
+it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were eating
+permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had intended
+to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in an unlucky
+moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving to take fish.
+The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such as is split,
+dried and exported from that country in great quantities for human
+food. But one important point was overlooked, namely the probability
+of the fish being affected on passing through the tropics. The
+lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that in future travelers in the
+south should safeguard their
+<a name="page_112"><span class="page">Page 112</span></a>
+dogs as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was
+the dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours
+in their tent which might have been devoted to marching.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the monotony
+of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st, and as the
+prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily disappearing,
+it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and edge towards
+it. Then the surface over which they were traveling showed signs
+of improvement, but the travelers themselves were beginning to
+suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and their eyes were
+also troubling them. Appetites, however, were increasing by leaps
+and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked to on our long marches
+is the prospect of the next meal.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little variation
+in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the first half-load
+one of the three stopped with it, and got up the tent and prepared
+the meal while the other two brought up the second half-load. And
+then on the following day came one of those rewards which was all the
+sweeter because it had been gained by ceaseless and very monotonous
+toil.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote,
+'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80&deg; 1'. All our
+charts of the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond
+the eightieth parallel... It has always been our ambition to get
+inside that white
+<a name="page_113"><span class="page">Page 113</span></a>
+space, and now we are there the space can no longer be a blank;
+this compensates for a lot of trouble.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so exhausted
+that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather had not
+compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always able to
+foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he invariably
+suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he could not help
+being a very effective barometer.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning of
+the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no time
+to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest, and
+there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine of
+relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement in
+the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land in
+hopes of making a dep&ocirc;t; so the course was laid to the westward
+of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they
+were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty
+miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day
+has only given us a bare four miles.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work and
+the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that they
+marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was between
+4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp somewhere
+between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested while the
+sun was at its greatest
+<a name="page_114"><span class="page">Page 114</span></a>
+height; but although there were certainly advantages in this, Scott
+could not get rid of a curious feeling that something was amiss
+with such a topsy-turvy method of procedure.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out some
+of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of mountains,
+which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at least fifty miles
+away. By far the nearest point of land was an isolated snow-cape,
+an immense, and almost dome-shaped, snow-covered mass. At first
+no rock at all could be seen on it, but as they got nearer a few
+patches began to appear. For one of these patches they decided to
+make so that they might establish a dep&ocirc;t, but at the rate
+at which they were traveling there was little hope of reaching
+it for several days.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that when
+the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin, and both
+smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But what saddened
+them more than this taste of paraffin was the discovery, on December
+5, that their oil was going too fast. A gallon was to have lasted
+twelve days, but on investigation it was found on an average to
+have lasted only ten, which meant that in the future each gallon
+would have to last a fortnight. 'This is a distinct blow, as we
+shall have to sacrifice our hot luncheon meal and to economize
+greatly at both the others. We started the new routine to-night,
+and for lunch ate some frozen seal-meat and our allowance of sugar
+and biscuit.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_115"><span class="page">Page 115</span></a>
+It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was
+not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when
+the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional
+discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when
+Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's
+balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his
+hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance
+of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his
+gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort
+from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was
+a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and
+on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily going
+downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than counter-balanced
+by the weakening of the animals, and I can see no time in which
+we can hope to get the sledges along without pulling ourselves.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast, but
+so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and even
+supposing they did get there and make a dep&ocirc;t, they doubted
+very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog,
+Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been got
+to move with the second load by the ignominious device of carrying
+food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was agony to those
+who had to drive and coax them on, and though Scott refers often
+in these days to the hunger that was nipping him,
+<a name="page_116"><span class="page">Page 116</span></a>
+no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely more he
+was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about his own
+troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost spent,
+at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march they had
+only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous exertions,
+for the snow became softer as they approached the land, and the
+sledge-runners sank from three to four inches. On any particularly
+soft patch they could do little more than mark time, and even to
+advance a yard was an achievement.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions
+and a quantity of dog-food in Dep&ocirc;t B and had resumed their
+march, sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know
+how to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay
+work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst
+I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more, I
+am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare,
+which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief
+was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs
+were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment
+have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced,
+and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise to
+push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer was
+that the risk
+<a name="page_117"><span class="page">Page 117</span></a>
+of going on should be taken, but on that same night Wilson, in view
+of future plans, reported to Scott that his medical examinations
+revealed that Shackleton had decidedly angry-looking gums, and that
+for some time they had been slowly but surely getting worse. It
+was decided not to tell Shackleton of these symptoms of scurvy,
+and as the bacon they were using seemed likely to be the cause of
+them, it was discarded and an increased allowance of seal given
+in its place. This was a loss in weight which was serious, for
+already they were reduced almost to starvation rations of about
+a pound and a half a day.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Supper was the best meal, for then they had a <i>hoosh</i> which
+ran from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but
+even this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being
+heated in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but the
+lamp was turned out directly the <i>hoosh</i> boiled, and by that
+time the chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker.
+Of course the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were long
+past criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted was
+something to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got it.
+Half an hour after supper was over they were as hungry as ever.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea
+that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience
+showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid system
+of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to divide
+<a name="page_118"><span class="page">Page 118</span></a>
+things into three equal portions, and as the man who made the division
+felt called upon to take the smallest share, the game of 'shut-eye'
+was invented to stop all arguments and remonstrances. The shares
+were divided as equally as possible by someone, then one of the
+other two turned his head away and the divider pointed to a portion
+and said, 'Whose is this?' He of the averted head named the owner,
+and thus this simple but useful game was played.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not encouraging,
+but they had reached a much harder surface and under those conditions
+Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet time to say 'Turn.'
+Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them, and for a week they
+had all agreed that it would be a crime to go to bed hungry on that
+night. In fact they meant it to be a wonderful day, and everything
+conspired to make it so.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of
+wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as the
+scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for once
+they were going to have a really substantial breakfast, and this
+was an irresistible counter-attraction.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than
+they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better
+that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs.
+On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven
+miles, the longest march they had made for a long
+<a name="page_119"><span class="page">Page 119</span></a>
+time. So when camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with
+the day, and ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered.
+A double 'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot,
+and in the <i>hoosh</i> that followed a spoon would stand without
+any support, and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is still
+circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is warm and quiet.
+All is pleasant without, and within we have a sense of comfort we
+have not known for many a day; we shall sleep well tonight&mdash;no
+dreams, no tightening of the belt.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the conversation
+turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas is like in
+England... and how our friends picture us. They will guess that
+we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps think of us
+on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the truth, that
+for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_120"><span class="page">Page 120</span></a>
+CHAPTER VI
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE RETURN</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;How many weary steps<br />
+Of many weary miles you have o'ergone,<br />
+Are numbered to the travel of one mile.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;SHAKESPEARE.
+i</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day wore
+off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise uninterrupted
+spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered long after
+hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this time they
+knew that they had cut themselves too short in the matter of food,
+but the only possible alteration that could now be made in their
+arrangements was to curtail their journey, and rather than do that
+they were ready cheerfully to face the distress of having an enormous
+appetite, and very little with which to appease it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the
+ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing
+weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a greater
+rate than they could renew them, and that the additional
+<a name="page_121"><span class="page">Page 121</span></a>
+weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would have
+been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength and
+vigour.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another
+disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it was
+impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before
+they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would
+give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast,
+while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps
+went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced before
+another meal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could
+eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping
+up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental
+and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they knew
+that they were penetrating farther and farther into the unknown.
+Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their labours more
+assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving sledge-meter
+or looked for the calculated results of their observations, it
+is not surprising that above all the desires for food was an
+irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to extend the line
+which they were now drawing on the white space of the Antarctic
+chart.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land was
+passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without the disclosure
+of some new
+<a name="page_122"><span class="page">Page 122</span></a>
+feature, something on which the eye of man had never rested; we
+should have been poor souls indeed had we not been elated at the
+privilege of being the first to gaze on these splendid scenes.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the point of view of further exploration their position on
+December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high undulating
+snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the south lay a cape
+beyond which they could not hope to pass, and to all appearances
+these conditions were likely to remain to the end of their journey.
+But on that night they had christened a distant and lofty peak
+'Mount Longstaff,' in honour of the man whose generosity had alone
+made the expedition possible, and although they thought that this
+was the most southerly land to which they would be able to give a
+name, they were in no mood to turn back because the outlook was
+unpromising. Arguing on the principle that it was impossible to tell
+what may turn up, they all decided to push on; and their decision was
+wise, for had they returned at that point one of the most important
+features of the whole coast-line would have been missed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness,
+which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott had
+remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry: 'When
+it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days he will
+spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent sketching
+each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene to the west.
+His sketches
+<a name="page_123"><span class="page">Page 123</span></a>
+are most astonishingly accurate; I have tested his proportions by
+actual angular measurements and found them correct.... But these
+long hours in the glare are very bad for the eyes; we have all
+suffered a good deal from snow-blindness of late, though we generally
+march with goggles, but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear
+it is mainly due to his sketching.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than anything
+that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th Wilson was
+pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely covered.
+To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch the bottom
+of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest intention
+of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and telling him
+of the changes that were happening around them he plodded steadily
+on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it happened that a most
+glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed itself. With some
+excitement Scott noticed that new mountain ridges were appearing
+as high as anything they had seen to the north, and his excitement
+increased when these ridges grew higher and higher. Then, instead
+of a downward turn in the distant outline came a steep upward line,
+and as they pressed on apace to see what would happen next, Scott
+did his best to keep Wilson posted up in the latest details. The
+end came in a gloriously sharp double peak crowned with a few flecks
+of cirrus cloud, and all they could think of in camp that night
+was this splendid twin-peaked mountain, which even in such
+<a name="page_124"><span class="page">Page 124</span></a>
+a lofty country looked like a giant among pigmies. 'At last we
+have found something which is fitting to bear the name of him whom
+we must always the most delight to honour, and "Mount Markham"
+it shall be called in memory of the father of the expedition.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss
+this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to
+be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect
+view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the limit
+of their journey would be reached, and that they would have but
+few more opportunities to increase their stock of information.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most
+interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags,
+full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead
+of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the tent
+while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when they
+got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped
+in a thick fog.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their
+last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached.
+Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though
+this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped for
+when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he anticipated
+when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says, 'one cannot help
+a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting on the "might have been"
+<a name="page_125"><span class="page">Page 125</span></a>
+had our team remained in good health, one cannot but remember that
+even as it is we have made a greater advance towards a pole of
+the earth than has ever yet been achieved by a sledge party.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Dep&ocirc;t
+B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year,
+and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving
+dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many
+of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but
+those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had
+of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to the
+suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely he
+felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January 3.
+This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite played
+out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid" caved
+in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled like
+a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him up till
+his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team now remained,
+and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but Nigger, though
+weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But at the end of
+a week on the return journey, all of the remaining dogs were asked
+to do nothing except walk by the sledges.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered
+ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling was as
+nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer having to
+<a name="page_126"><span class="page">Page 126</span></a>
+drive a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering and dragging
+in front would be needed, no more tangled traces would have to be
+put straight, and above all there would be no more whip. So far
+steady though rather slow progress had been made, but January 8
+brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they would the sledge could
+scarcely be made to move, and after three hours of the hardest
+work only a mile and a quarter had been gained. Sadly they were
+compelled to admit that the surface had so completely changed that
+the only thing to do was to remain in camp until it improved. But
+whether it would improve was an anxious matter, for they had less
+than a week's provisions and were at least fifty miles from Dep&ocirc;t
+B.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and a
+fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were left,
+Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost out
+of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and marched
+along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling. But this
+more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by a march in
+a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had even a more
+serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind them they
+had gained many miles, but the march had tired them out, because
+instead of the steady pulling to which they were accustomed they
+had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes to pull forwards,
+backwards, sideways, and always with their senses keenly alert
+and their muscles strung up for instant action.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_127"><span class="page">Page 127</span></a>
+On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote: 'We
+cannot now be far from our dep&ocirc;t, but then we do not exactly
+know where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if this
+thick weather continues we shall probably not be able to find it.'
+And after two more days of bad surface and thick weather he wrote
+again: 'There is no doubt we are approaching a very critical time.
+The dep&ocirc;t is a very small spot on a very big ocean of snow;
+with luck one might see it at a mile and a half or two miles, and
+fortune may direct our course within this radius of it; but, on
+the other hand, it is impossible not to contemplate the ease with
+which such a small spot can be missed.... The annoying thing is that
+one good clear sight of the land would solve all our difficulties.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever.
+Three hours' incessant labour had gained only three-quarters of a
+mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag was a
+mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that remained
+in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But later on Scott
+caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and tumbled hastily out of
+his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining a meridional altitude;
+and after getting the very best result he could under the very
+difficult conditions prevailing, he casually lowered the telescope
+and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly a speck seemed to flash
+by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose. Then he brought the
+telescope slowly back, and there it was again, and accompanied this
+<a name="page_128"><span class="page">Page 128</span></a>
+time by two smaller specks on either side of it. Without a shadow
+of doubt it was the dep&ocirc;t which meant the means of life to
+them. 'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's the dep&ocirc;t."
+We are not a demonstrative party, but I think we excused ourselves
+for the wild cheer that greeted this announcement.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though
+the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different
+mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as
+possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten
+as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they were
+going to have the fat <i>hoosh</i> which would once more give them an
+internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the dep&ocirc;t,
+and there they found everything as they had left it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver from
+the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by the fat
+<i>hoosh</i> of their dreams they completed the comparison between
+the two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners.
+Having equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the
+sledges round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely
+move the metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only
+about 130 miles to cover to their next dep&ocirc;t, a full three
+weeks' provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood
+runners, they went to bed
+<a name="page_129"><span class="page">Page 129</span></a>
+feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been lifted. The chief
+cause of worry left was the question of health, and the result
+of a thorough medical examination on the morning of the 14th did
+nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found to be very far indeed
+from well, but although Scott and Wilson both showed symptoms of
+scurvy they still felt that, as far as they were concerned, there
+was no danger of a breakdown.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of it
+Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really
+alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but
+we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse;
+now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be
+sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it had
+to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his restless,
+energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night I have
+talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work, but
+to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must be
+devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck to
+bring him through.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic
+story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors
+of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the
+camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through our
+most troublous time we always looked forward to getting
+<a name="page_130"><span class="page">Page 130</span></a>
+some of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then
+seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should
+be able to bring back these two.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the part of the return journey which was now beginning,
+they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that it
+resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick companion.
+The weather also added to their troubles, because it was so overcast
+that steering was extremely difficult. For nearly ten consecutive
+days this gloomy weather continued to harass them, but on the 20th
+it cleared as they were on their march, and on the following day
+with a brisk southerly breeze and their sail set they traveled
+along at a fine rate. The state of Shackleton's health was still
+a source of acutest anxiety, but each march brought safety nearer
+and nearer, and on the 23rd Scott was able to write in a much more
+hopeful spirit. Next day a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was
+seen, but this encouraging sight was accompanied by a new form
+of surface which made the pulling very wearisome. An inch or so
+beneath the soft snow surface was a thin crust, almost, but not
+quite, sufficient to bear their weight. The work of breaking such
+a surface as this would, Scott says, have finished Shackleton in
+no time, but luckily he was able to go on ski and avoid the jars.
+'In spite of our present disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess
+that if we get back safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair
+he is now using.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig007.jpg" width="809" height="521" alt="Figure 7">
+<br />MOUNT EREBUS.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_131"><span class="page">Page 131</span></a>
+But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott and
+Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to chance,
+and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition would
+allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off and got
+well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and after lunch
+the same procedure was adopted. By this means he was able to take
+things easily, and though eager to do his share of the work he
+was wise enough to see that every precaution taken was absolutely
+necessary.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between,
+but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered them
+to think that they had seen something that was actually beyond the
+ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away, but they
+had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance that they
+were not in the least astonished by this.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on as usual
+the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon afterwards
+discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no doubt that
+the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey work to the
+west, but it was wonderful what that track told them. They could
+see that there had been six men with two sledges, and that all of
+the former had been going strong and well on ski. From the state
+of the track this party had evidently passed about four days before
+on the homeward route, and from
+<a name="page_132"><span class="page">Page 132</span></a>
+the zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must
+have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added
+some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study.
+But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne and
+his party were safe, and this after their own experiences was a
+great relief.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another day and a half of labour brought them to the dep&ocirc;t,
+and the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our
+tent was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish
+glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil enough
+for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have lasted
+us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag which
+we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just opened
+this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents. There
+are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup squares,
+pea soup, and many other delights that already make our mouths
+water. For each one of us there is some special trifle which the
+forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being an extra
+packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are a whole heap
+of folded letters and notes&mdash;<i>billets-doux</i> indeed. I
+wonder if a mail was ever more acceptable.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labour, had succeeded
+in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's
+egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal
+itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an
+<a name="page_133"><span class="page">Page 133</span></a>
+unqualified success, for after being accustomed to starvation or
+semi-starvation rations, they were in no condition either to resist
+or to digest any unstinted meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered
+acutely.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and the first
+thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned when Shackleton
+was found to be extremely ill. Everything now depended upon the
+weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott doubted if Shackleton
+would even be well enough to be carried on the sledge. 'It is a
+great disappointment; last night we thought ourselves out of the
+wood with all our troubles behind us, and to-night matters seem
+worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are pretty fit, and we have
+lots of food.' By great luck the weather cleared on the morning
+of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a very bad night revived a
+little it was felt that the only chance was to go on. 'At last
+he was got away, and we watched him almost tottering along with
+frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our provisions, in half an hour
+we had packed our camp, set our sail, and started with the sledges.
+It was not long before we caught our invalid, who was so exhausted
+that we thought it wiser he should sit on the sledges, where for
+the remainder of the forenoon, with the help of our sail, we carried
+him.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the
+blizzard, but fortune favored them during the last stages of the
+struggle homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful effect
+upon the
+<a name="page_134"><span class="page">Page 134</span></a>
+sick man. By the night of February 2 they were within ten or twelve
+miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of a successful end to their
+troubles. During the afternoon they had passed round the corner
+of White Island, and as they did so the old familiar outline of the
+friendly peninsula suddenly opened up before them. On every side
+were suggestions of home, and their joy at seeing the well-known
+landmarks was increased by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent
+as three persons can well be.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his
+companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew
+how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And both
+Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been advancing
+rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to themselves or
+each other how 'done' they were. For many a day Wilson had suffered
+from lameness, and each morning had vainly tried to disguise his
+limp, but from his set face Scott knew well enough how much he
+suffered before the first stiffness wore off. 'As for myself, for
+some time I have hurried through the task of changing my foot-gear
+in an attempt to forget that my ankles are considerably swollen.
+One and all we want rest and peace, and, all being well, tomorrow,
+thank Heaven, we shall get them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during
+this remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up
+their camp for the last time and set their faces towards Observation
+Hill. Brilliant
+<a name="page_135"><span class="page">Page 135</span></a>
+weather still continued, and after plodding on for some hours two
+specks appeared, which at first were thought to be penguins, but
+presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them. Early in the
+morning they had been reported by watchers on the hills, and Skelton
+and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened to
+a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other travelers
+returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but the relief
+ship, the <i>Morning</i>, had also arrived and brought a whole
+year's news.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed,
+they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from
+December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts
+busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved
+ship.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Though still held fast in her icy prison the <i>Discovery</i> looked
+trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion
+a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while
+as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with
+their cheering comrades.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their
+shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them,
+no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time
+it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to
+be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended,
+<a name="page_136"><span class="page">Page 136</span></a>
+and that rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three
+days they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the
+fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered 960
+statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the beginning
+had not been completely achieved, they knew at any rate that they
+had striven and endured to the limit of their powers.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_137"><span class="page">Page 137</span></a>
+CHAPTER VII
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">A SECOND WINTER</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+As cold waters to a thirsty soul,<br />
+So is good news from a far country.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;PROVERBS.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources
+of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his absence,
+and that parties had been going and coming and ever adding to the
+collection of knowledge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how the
+Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid progress
+had been made in the preparations for the western party that November
+9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a general holiday
+and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic sports.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the
+toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple
+had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no
+sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start
+was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the
+<a name="page_138"><span class="page">Page 138</span></a>
+queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number
+were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something of
+a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate
+arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from the
+same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what
+was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion
+secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race was
+considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start it was
+seen that this couple had laboured in vain; for although they shot
+ahead at first, their speed was so great that they could not control
+their machine. In a moment they were rolling head-over-heels in
+clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus amusing itself a tortoise
+slid past and won the race.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey,
+and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound and
+attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton and ten
+men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar, Dellbridge
+and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage and his party
+during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt a practicable
+road to the interior was discovered and traversed, and the barrier
+of mountains that had seemed so formidable an obstruction from the
+ship was conquered. It was equally certain that the party could
+claim to be the first to set foot on the interior of Victoria Land
+but they had been forced to turn back at an extremely
+<a name="page_139"><span class="page">Page 139</span></a>
+interesting point, and in consequence were unable to supply very
+definite information with regard to the ice-cap. They had, however,
+fulfilled their main object, and in doing so had disclosed problems
+that caused the deepest interest to be focussed upon the direction
+in which they had traveled.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among the
+rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits. These,
+with other observations, showed the strong probability of the existence
+of sedimentary deposits which might be reached and examined, and
+which alone could serve to reveal the geological history of this
+great southern continent. At all hazards Scott determined that
+the geologist of the expedition must be given a chance to explore
+this most interesting region.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically
+stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on
+shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that
+remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by resorting
+to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful expeditions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the ship
+was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on board
+in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic measures
+had to be taken before they could be released from their beds of
+ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen depths,
+it was not possible
+<a name="page_140"><span class="page">Page 140</span></a>
+that the task could be accomplished without doing considerable
+damage. When at length all of them had been brought to the surface
+their condition was exceedingly dilapidated; indeed only two of
+them were in a condition to float; but although it was evident
+that the carpenter would be busy for many weeks before they would
+be seaworthy, their reappearance was a tremendous relief.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions
+that the <i>Discovery</i> should be prepared for sea by the end
+of January. Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there
+was still plenty of employment for everybody, since 'preparations
+for sea' under such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount
+of labour. Tons and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck
+with pick-axes and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes
+had to be looked to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything
+got ready for handling the ship under sail; many things that had
+been displaced or landed near the shore-station had to be brought
+on board and secured in position; thirty tons of ice had to be
+fetched, melted, and run into the boilers; below, steam-pipes had
+to be rejointed, glands re-packed, engines turned by hand, and
+steam raised to see that all was in working order.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship,
+this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern travelers
+returned all was ready for them to put to sea again.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_141"><span class="page">Page 141</span></a>
+But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back to
+safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival
+of the <i>Morning</i>. How the funds were raised by means of which
+this ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was
+due to the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir
+Clements Markham that the <i>Morning</i>, commanded by Lieutenant
+William Colbeck, R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on
+July 9, 1902.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Long before the <i>Discovery</i> had left New Zealand the idea
+of a relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great
+difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if the
+thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it. Obviously
+then it was desirable to leave as much information as possible
+on the track, and the relief ship was to try and pick up clues
+at the places where Scott had said that he would attempt to leave
+them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession Islands, Coulman
+Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape Crozier.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there Colbeck
+heard of the <i>Discovery's</i> safe arrival in the south. The
+Possession Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been
+able to land there, and south of this the whole coast was so thickly
+packed that the <i>Morning</i> could not approach either Coulman
+Island or Wood Bay.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but
+<a name="page_142"><span class="page">Page 142</span></a>
+without result; and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not
+until four days later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck
+himself joined the landing party, and after spending several hours
+in fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning
+despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly a
+small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it, and
+in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into the
+mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the <i>Discovery</i>,
+and practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On board the <i>Discovery</i> the idea had steadily grown that
+a relief ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had
+begun to look upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of
+January it was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke
+had been seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally
+received without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down the
+hill on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a ship
+in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable
+of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early on
+the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The <i>Morning</i>
+was lying some ten miles north of the <i>Discovery</i>, but it
+was far easier to see her than to reach her. At last, however,
+the party, after various little adventures, stood safely on deck
+and received the warmest of welcomes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the last week of January the weather was
+<a name="page_143"><span class="page">Page 143</span></a>
+in its most glorious mood, and with some of the treacherous thin
+ice breaking away the <i>Morning</i> was able to get a mile nearer.
+Parties constantly passed to and fro between the two ships, and
+everyone&mdash;with unshaken confidence that the <i>Discovery</i>
+would soon be free&mdash;gave themselves up to the delight of fresh
+companionship, and the joy of good news from the home country. To
+this scene of festivity and cheeriness Scott, Wilson and Shackleton
+returned on February 3, and though the last to open their letters
+they had the satisfaction of knowing that the <i>Morning</i> had
+brought nothing but good news.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern
+party's return to make his first visit to the <i>Discovery</i>,
+and soon after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was
+reveling in the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of
+welcoming him on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,'
+Scott says, 'I had little expected that the first feast in our
+home quarters would be taken with strange faces gathered round our
+festive table, but so it was, and I can well remember the look of
+astonishment that dawned on those faces when we gradually displayed
+our power of absorbing food.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease,
+for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition
+was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although
+he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused
+a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from
+<a name="page_144"><span class="page">Page 144</span></a>
+the violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the
+journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs
+of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that
+on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained
+quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is a
+very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern
+journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this
+collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the
+determination which must have upheld him during the last marches.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no means
+fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were very
+uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was attacked
+by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental weariness.
+'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse myself from this
+slothful humour, and it was many weeks before I had returned to
+a normally vigorous condition. It was probably this exceptionally
+relaxed state of health that made me so slow to realize that the
+ice conditions were very different from what they had been in the
+previous season.... The prospect of the ice about us remaining fast
+throughout the season never once entered my head.' His diary, however,
+for the month shows how he gradually awakened to the true state of
+affairs, and on February 13 he decided to begin the transport of
+stores from the <i>Morning</i> to the <i>Discovery</i>, so that
+the former ship 'should run no risk of being detained.' And on
+the 18th when
+<a name="page_145"><span class="page">Page 145</span></a>
+he paid his first visit to the <i>Morning</i> and found the journey
+'an awful grind,' he had begun to wonder whether the floe was ever
+going to break up.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig008.jpg" width="516" height="816" alt="Figure 8">
+<br />LUNAR CORONA.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The <i>Morning</i>
+must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that we
+shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up may
+come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had decided
+that if they had to remain the ship's company should be reduced,
+and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told them that he
+wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing. On the following
+day a list was sent round for the names of those who wanted to
+go, and the result was curiously satisfactory&mdash;for Scott had
+determined that eight men should go, and not only were there eight
+names on the list, but they were also precisely those which Scott
+would have put there had he made the selection. Shackleton also
+had to be told that he must go, as in his state of health Scott
+did not think that any further hardships ought to be risked; but
+in his place Scott requisitioned Mulock who by an extraordinary
+chance is just the very man we wanted. We have now an immense amount
+of details for charts... and Mulock is excellent at this work and
+as keen as possible. It is rather amusing, as he is the only person
+who is obviously longing for the ice to stop in, though of course
+he doesn't say so. The other sporting characters are still giving
+ten to one that it will go out, but I am bound to confess that
+I am not sanguine.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_146"><span class="page">Page 146</span></a>
+The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on February
+16, and before the end of the month all hope of the <i>Discovery</i>
+being able to leave with the <i>Morning</i> had been abandoned. On
+March 2 nearly the whole of the <i>Discovery's</i> company were
+entertained on board the <i>Morning</i>, and on the following day
+the relief ship slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few
+minutes she was turning to the north, with every rope and spar
+outlined against the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was
+raised as she gathered way, and long after she had passed out of
+earshot the little band stood gazing at her receding hull, and
+wondering when they too would be able to take the northern track.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the <i>Morning</i> went a letter from Scott which shows that
+although in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain
+for another winter, both he and his companions were not by any
+means dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen
+on getting a look round C. North before making for home. However we
+all take it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and contented
+on board, and shall have lots to do in winter, spring and summer.
+We will have a jolly good try to free the ship next year, though
+I fear manual labour doesn't go far with such terribly heavy ice
+as we have here; but this year we were of course unprepared, and
+when we realized the situation it was too late to begin anything
+like extensive operations. I can rely on every single man that
+remains in the ship and I gave them all the option of leaving...
+<a name="page_147"><span class="page">Page 147</span></a>
+the ship's company is now practically naval-officers and men&mdash;it
+is rather queer when one looks back to the original gift of two
+officers.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and
+fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry;
+at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly
+before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away at
+the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers
+not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those who
+were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and Bernacchi
+are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise, and for the
+manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition the greatest
+admiration is expressed. But in some way or other Scott discovered
+good points in all the officers he mentioned, and if they were
+not satisfactory in every way his object seemed to be rather to
+excuse than to blame them. He was, however, unaffectedly glad to
+see the last of the cook, for the latter had shown himself far
+more capable at talking than at cooking, and had related so many
+of his wonderful adventures that one of the sailors reckoned that
+the sum total of these thrilling experiences must have extended
+over a period of five hundred and ninety years&mdash;which, as
+the sailor said, was a fair age even for a cook.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled
+to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given
+to prepare the
+<a name="page_148"><span class="page">Page 148</span></a>
+ship for it. Compared with the previous year the weather had been
+a great deal worse, for there had been more wind and much lower
+temperatures, and under such conditions it was hopeless to go on
+expecting the ice to break up. But it was not to be wondered at
+that they found themselves wondering what their imprisonment meant.
+Was it the present summer or the last that was the exception? For
+them this was the gravest question, since on the answer to it their
+chance of getting away next year, or at all, depended.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While, however, the situation as regards the future was not altogether
+without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the best of the
+present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was determined to
+keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout the winter, and
+consequently a great number of seals and skuas had to be killed.
+At first the skua had been regarded as unfit for human food, but
+Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in a noose and promptly
+put it into the pot. And the result was so satisfactory that the
+skua at once began to figure prominently on the menu. They had,
+however, to deplore the absence of penguins from their winter diet,
+because none had been seen near the ship for a long time.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon
+this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would be
+agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but otherwise
+we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work;
+<a name="page_149"><span class="page">Page 149</span></a>
+we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in
+lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of
+light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended
+with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball furiously
+driven by Royds.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of the months that followed little need be said, except that Scott's
+anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter passed by
+without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found them even
+more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to work away
+with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who had been
+trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities for the work,
+was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking all the
+observations, and later on in constructing temporary charts; while
+Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent many a day at
+his distant sounding holes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was
+carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while many
+new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in serviceable
+work that when the second long Polar night ended, Scott was able to
+write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board the <i>Discovery</i>
+who would say that it has been a hardship.... All thoughts are turned
+towards the work that lies before us, and it would be difficult to
+be blind to the possible extent of its usefulness. Each day has
+brought it more home to us how little we know and how much there
+is to be learned, and we
+<a name="page_150"><span class="page">Page 150</span></a>
+realize fully that this second year's work may more than double
+the value of our observations. Life in these regions has lost any
+terror it ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may,
+we can live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years
+to come.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_151"><span class="page">Page 151</span></a>
+CHAPTER VIII
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE WESTERN JOURNEY</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Path of advance! but it leads<br>
+A long steep journey through sunk<br>
+Gorges, o'er mountains in snow.&mdash;M. ARNOLD.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the second winter much time and attention had to be given
+to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it
+that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But in
+spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season was
+bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an inferior
+quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were blackened
+with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many places; the
+cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear; the wind
+clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small bags, which
+were required for provisions, they were obliged to fall back on any
+sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This state of things,
+however, was very far from daunting their spirits, and long before
+the winter was over the plan of campaign for the next season had
+been drawn up.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In making the program Scott knew that extended
+<a name="page_152"><span class="page">Page 152</span></a>
+journeys could only be made by properly supported parties, and it
+was easy to see that his small company would not be able to make
+more than two supported journeys, though it might be just possible
+to make a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The
+next thing to decide was in what direction these parties should
+go, and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay
+in the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point
+of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must, Scott
+determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey to the
+west he decided to lead himself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope
+to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had
+been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many
+problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary straits
+that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges without rising
+in level. It was therefore with the main object of exploring one
+of them that the second supported party, under the leadership of
+Barne and Mulock, was to set out.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported
+party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask
+Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on
+a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this
+question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and decided
+that the only way to get it was to go and see.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig009.jpg" width="554" height="407"
+ alt="Figure 9">
+<br />PINNACLED ICE AT MOUTH OF FERRAR GLACIER.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig010.jpg" width="552" height="420"
+ alt="Figure 10">
+<br />PRESSURE RIDGES NORTH SIDE OF DISCOVERY BLUFF.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_153"><span class="page">Page 153</span></a>
+Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of shorter
+ones for specific purposes, and the most important of these were
+the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery, as it was hoped
+that Wilson would be able to observe these birds from the beginning
+of their breeding season.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding
+arrangements, for although the <i>Discovery</i> was mainly at the
+mercy of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything
+man could do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as
+they could hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet
+around them, the whole force of the company was to set to work
+at the task of extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to
+start in time to assure their return to the ship by the middle
+of December.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton, Dailey,
+Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find a new road
+to the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a dep&ocirc;t ready for
+a greater effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier descends
+gradually to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor, but Armitage
+had reported most adversely on this inlet as a route for sledges, and
+in conducting his own party had led it across the high foot-hills.
+As yet Scott had not been to this region, but in the nature of
+things he could not help thinking that some practical route must
+exist up the New Harbour inlet, and that if it could be found the
+journey to the west would be much easier. And the result of this
+little journey
+<a name="page_154"><span class="page">Page 154</span></a>
+was really important, for whereas Armitage, at the foot of the
+Ferrar Glacier, had seen the disturbance on the south side, and
+had concluded that it must extend right across, Scott's party
+fortunately pushed over this disturbance and found much easier
+conditions beyond it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further
+observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where
+glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be
+found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will
+be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course,
+is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in the
+north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall on
+the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part of
+the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice disturbance
+is caused.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a dep&ocirc;t at
+a spot which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back
+again at the ship in less than a fortnight.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied;
+we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done
+a record march, and we had endured record temperatures&mdash;at
+least, we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to
+tell these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached
+the ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first
+question was, "What temperatures
+<a name="page_155"><span class="page">Page 155</span></a>
+have you had?" We replied by complacently quoting our array of
+<i>minus</i> fifties, but he quickly cut us short by remarking that
+we were not in it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap throughout
+the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they had been laying
+a dep&ocirc;t, had the coldest time, and after their thermometer had
+fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke at -67.7&deg;. Royds
+and his party also had to endure -62&deg;, but in other respects they
+were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier they found that the
+Emperor penguins had already hatched out their young, and Wilson
+was delighted to get the opportunity of studying the chicks at
+such a tender age. Commenting upon this and another journey to
+Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor penguin stands nearly
+four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty to ninety pounds....
+I think the chickens hate their parents, and when one watches the
+proceedings in a rookery it strikes one as not surprising. In the
+first place there is about one chick to ten or twelve adults, and
+each adult has an overpowering desire to "sit" on something. Both
+males and females want to nurse, and the result is that when a
+chicken finds himself alone there is a rush on the part of a dozen
+unemployed to seize him. Naturally he runs away, and dodges here
+and there till a six-stone Emperor falls on him, and then begins
+a regular football scrimmage, in which each tries to hustle the
+other off, and the end is too often disastrous to the chick....
+I think it is not
+<a name="page_156"><span class="page">Page 156</span></a>
+an exaggeration to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less
+than half are killed by kindness.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens back
+to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep them
+warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded in his
+attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding, and Wilson
+says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the age when they
+put on their feathers, I fear that the journey home through the
+tropics would have proved too much for them, as we had no means
+of making a cool place for them on the ship.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on that
+day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the sun would
+be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the most careful
+preparations, and everyone was placed under his orders during the
+day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera were trained in the
+right direction, magnetic instruments were set to run at quick
+speed, and observers were told off to watch everything on which the
+absence of sun could possibly have the smallest effect. Everything,
+in short, was ready except the sun itself which obstinately refused
+to come out. 'There may,' Scott says, 'have been an eclipse of
+the sun on September 21, 1903, as the almanac said, but we should
+none of us have liked to swear to the fact.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the long
+journeys, and on October 12 Scott
+<a name="page_157"><span class="page">Page 157</span></a>
+left the ship with a party of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First
+came his own party, which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly
+and Handsley; secondly there was a small party for the geologist,
+Ferrar, who was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there
+were the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to be the
+hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that experience
+would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it would take a
+good deal to stop the determined men whom he had chosen. At the
+start their loads were a little over 200 lbs. per man, but most
+of the party were by this time in thoroughly good condition, and
+by hard marching they covered the forty-five miles to New Harbour
+and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for here
+on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh seal-meat,
+and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter was carried
+and left at the point for each party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until
+the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably
+beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then
+Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split
+under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious blow;
+for although the wood runners were capable of running on snow without
+protection, on
+<a name="page_158"><span class="page">Page 158</span></a>
+hard, sharp ice, especially if the sledge was heavily laden, they
+would be knocked to pieces in a very short time. It was, therefore,
+absolutely necessary to protect the runners on this journey, but
+unfortunately the German silver protection had already stood a
+season's work, and had worn thin without giving any outward sign.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles of
+hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately
+arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over 6,000
+feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous state
+that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned up for
+inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained sound,
+and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and only one to
+take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as they could. Had
+two sledges been available the advance party might have struggled on,
+but with one they could do nothing; so they left the sound sledge
+with everything else except the half-week's provisions necessary
+to take them back, and on the following days they 'came as near
+flying as is possible with a sledge party.' On the morning of the
+19th they had eighty-seven miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on
+the 21st they had reached the ship.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During this march Scott had determined to test his own party to
+the utmost, but seeing no necessity
+<a name="page_159"><span class="page">Page 159</span></a>
+for the supports to be dragged into this effort he told them to
+take their own time. The supporting party, however, did not mean
+to be left behind if they could help it, and later on the night
+of the 21st they also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of
+the last hours some of the members of the supporting party, though
+determined not to give in, had been comically astounded by the
+pace which was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott,
+kept on repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my
+legs are as long as his.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Five days after their flying return they were off again, and although
+the material for repairing sledges was very scanty, one sound 11-foot
+sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for Ferrar's glacier
+work. Trouble, however, almost at once began with the runners,
+and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and caused a long delay.
+But in spite of being held up by wind for two days, they reached
+their dep&ocirc;t on November 1, and thought at first that everything
+was safe. On examination, however, they discovered that a violent
+gale had forced open the lid of the instrument box, and that several
+things were missing, among which Scott found to his dismay was
+the 'Hints to Travelers.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November 1,
+'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow I
+felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second
+time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others,
+<a name="page_160"><span class="page">Page 160</span></a>
+and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to take
+the risks of pushing on.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be&mdash;as indeed
+he was&mdash;out of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a
+case as this the sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position
+as a ship or a boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of his
+whereabouts by observation of the sun or stars, and with the help
+of these observations he finds his latitude and longitude, but to
+do this a certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to Travelers'
+supplies these necessary data, and it was on this book that Scott had
+been relying to help him to work out his sights and fix accurately
+the position of his party. Unless he went back to the ship to make
+good his loss, he was obliged to take the risk of marching into
+the unknown without knowing exactly where he was or how he was to
+get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of our "Hints to Travelers" did
+not lead us into serious trouble it caused me many a bad half-hour.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about
+it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant
+attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach on
+the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000 feet.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but November
+4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described afterwards as
+'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In the morning of
+the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold, increasing wind,
+<a name="page_161"><span class="page">Page 161</span></a>
+but later on the sun disappeared and the weather became very
+threatening. Still, however, they battled on and were half-way
+up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when the air became
+thick with driving snow and the full force of the gale burst upon
+them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded in reaching the
+top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch of snow on which
+to camp, but nothing could be found except bare, blue ice. By this
+time the position was becoming serious, all of them were frost-bitten
+in the face, and although the runners of the sledges were split
+again so badly that they could barely pull them over the surface,
+they did not dare to leave the sledges in the thick drift.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but the
+snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was almost
+as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was this or
+nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party, and
+dug for all he was worth without making the least impression. At
+this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him, and
+being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few small
+blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and again it
+and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour passed before
+the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote, 'but experience
+saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty confident that
+we could not have stood another hour in the open.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Little, however, did they expect when shelter
+<a name="page_162"><span class="page">Page 162</span></a>
+was gained that a week would pass before they could resume their
+march. From November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile
+not a vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped
+continuously in a thick fog of driving snow.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the
+<i>Beagle</i>,' and first one and then another would read this
+aloud, until frozen fingers prevented the pages from being turned
+over. Only one piece of work were they able to perform, and this
+on the first day when, thinking the storm would soon blow over,
+they hauled the sledges beneath one of the tents and stripped the
+German silver ready for the onward march.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them,
+and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the
+health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might
+be he would try to start on the following morning.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes
+both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the
+heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling
+in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this
+unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of
+bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is
+slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning,
+but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be
+done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the
+<a name="page_163"><span class="page">Page 163</span></a>
+storm, and though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was
+possible at last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's
+party separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall
+and eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident.
+On starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at
+once went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when
+they began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting
+to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were
+in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened;
+our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the
+night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With
+five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many
+miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were,
+as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different
+party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp'
+on the morning of the 11th.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started the
+journey to the west before troubles again began to gather round them.
+The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their sleeping-bags
+and night-jackets with ice, and with falling temperatures this ice
+had so little chance to evaporate that camping arrangements were
+acutely uncomfortable; and as each night the thermometer fell a
+little lower,
+<a name="page_164"><span class="page">Page 164</span></a>
+the chance of relief from this state of things could scarcely be
+said to exist. The wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it
+was not very strong, when combined with the low temperature and
+rarefied air its effect was blighting.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to conceive
+a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at this time,
+when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs upon the
+last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands. Yet
+before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word!
+Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook
+ever so comfortless?'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite of
+every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the 17th
+the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans leading
+with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed with the
+other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge had great
+difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself felt thoroughly
+strong and well, some of his companions were beginning to fail. As
+was natural with such men not one of them would own that he was
+exhausted, and in consequence it was only by paying the keenest
+attention that he could detect those who from sheer incapacity
+were relaxing their strain on the traces. And his position was not
+pleasant even when he knew, for to tell any of these brave people
+that they must turn back was a most unenviable
+<a name="page_165"><span class="page">Page 165</span></a>
+task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched on, though
+Scott was sure that better progress would have been made had the
+party been divided.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley
+more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean
+to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he
+begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's
+opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would make
+him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his diary:
+'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children! The
+boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has been
+pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes through the
+traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has never uttered a
+word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is on him he straightens
+up and pretends he is just as fit as ever. What is one to do with
+such people?'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before, but
+on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley that
+they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise their
+disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had to be.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision,
+three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and his
+companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back upon
+this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a
+<a name="page_166"><span class="page">Page 166</span></a>
+high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the
+successful work that was done.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be
+a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered....
+Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at
+the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task
+we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked
+out on board the ship.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40&deg; or below,
+while during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25&deg;,
+and with this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact
+the wind was the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces.
+So cracked were their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the
+first half-hour of the morning march, before they were warmed up
+to the work, was dreadful, as then all their sore places got
+frost-bitten. In short the last week of their outward march was
+a searching test of endurance, but they had resolved to march on
+until November 30, and in spite of the miserable conditions there
+was no turning back before the month had ended.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30 had
+come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march, thank
+heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week but the
+determination to carry out our original intention of going on to
+the end of the month, and so here we have pitched our last camp.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_167"><span class="page">Page 167</span></a>
+CHAPTER IX
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE RETURN FROM THE WEST</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude<br />
+Bound its broad zone of stillness.&mdash;SHELLEY.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march
+out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long way to
+the west from my rough noon observation of the compass variation.'
+But not for anything in the world did he want again to see the
+interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after this great march
+he says: 'For me the long month which we spent on the Victoria Land
+summit remains as some vivid but evil dream. I have a memory of
+continuous strain on mind and body, lightened only by the unfailing
+courage and cheerfulness of my companions.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to
+penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold,
+and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards
+the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the
+time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their
+powers of marching could they hope
+<a name="page_168"><span class="page">Page 168</span></a>
+to retreat in safety from their position, and December opened with
+such overcast weather that valuable time had to be spent in the
+tent. During the next few days, however, good marches were made,
+until on December 9 everything changed abruptly for the worse.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably bad,
+that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge along
+at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in view
+of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should be
+increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of oil,
+and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of days
+their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold lunch
+and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently doesn't
+much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the form of
+a <i>hoosh</i> and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was
+as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty
+of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single
+point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon them,
+and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger there was
+no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that they were
+becoming 'gaunt shadows.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more
+or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack.
+His attitude
+<a name="page_169"><span class="page">Page 169</span></a>
+to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance, as though,
+while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less responsible
+for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion when told that
+it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone, 'My poor old nose
+again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time it had been brought
+round a storm was blowing, and though they continued to march,
+the drift was so thick that at any moment they might have walked
+over the edge of a precipice&mdash;a fitting prelude to what, by
+general consent, was admitted to be the most adventurous day in
+their lives.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were at
+first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was blowing and
+high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In this predicament
+Scott realized that it was both rash to go forward, as the air was
+becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally rash to stop, for if they
+had to spend another long spell in a blizzard camp, starvation would
+soon be staring them in the face. So he asked Evans and Lashly if
+they were ready to take the risk of going on, and promptly discovered
+that they were. Then they marched straight for the ice disturbance,
+and as the surface became smoother and the slope steeper their
+sledge began to overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and
+Lashly behind to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front
+to guide its course, and what happened afterwards is described
+most graphically in the diary of the 15th.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_170"><span class="page">Page 170</span></a>
+'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward
+on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown
+off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time
+to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced myself
+to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an express
+train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and we all
+three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with an
+ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought that
+flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if he
+attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to this
+effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there came
+a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in the
+midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide smoothly
+and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes leaving
+it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken limbs
+again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled
+with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came
+down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard,
+wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment
+or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering
+what had happened.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and
+in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken.
+But we had by
+<a name="page_171"><span class="page">Page 171</span></a>
+no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one black bruise from
+knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough to land once on
+his back, which is bruised and very painful.... I, as the lightest,
+escaped the easiest, yet before the two men crawled painfully to
+their feet their first question was to ask if I had been hurt.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now to
+my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance of our
+own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared well-remembered
+landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken ice-wall over which we
+had fallen, I now recognized at once the most elevated ice cascade
+of our valley....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position
+was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could
+not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any
+other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our dep&ocirc;t;
+it was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark.
+Now in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised...
+and down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Dep&ocirc;t
+Nunatak where peace and plenty awaited us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the end,
+but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken open the
+biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions left,
+except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager contents
+of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would
+<a name="page_172"><span class="page">Page 172</span></a>
+allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge
+and marched on towards the dep&ocirc;t. Before them lay a long plateau,
+at the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second cascade,
+and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more gradual
+icy surface down to the dep&ocirc;t.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite
+unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness to
+their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought Scott
+in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his right
+and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid, and
+Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had this
+order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing and
+disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from following
+and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace. The sledge
+flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which Scott and Evans
+had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked by the jerk but
+the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,' Scott says, 'I
+remember absolutely nothing until I found myself dangling at the
+end of my trace with blue walls on either side and a very horrid
+looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged by our movements
+continued to shower down on our heads. As a first step I took off
+my goggles; I then discovered that Evans was hanging just above
+me. I asked him if he was all right, and received a reassuring
+reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_173"><span class="page">Page 173</span></a>
+Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed
+feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg
+suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising
+himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle
+he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially
+between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the
+right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another
+such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The
+projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or
+not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had
+slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he
+could pilot his feet to the bridge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I realized
+what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet over our
+heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at once what a
+frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask what he could
+do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed companion;
+for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with one hand,
+his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski. At length
+he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken sledge,
+and so making our support more secure.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's
+active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge
+began to slip. The only
+<a name="page_174"><span class="page">Page 174</span></a>
+possible course, therefore, was for Scott and Evans to climb out
+unaided, and, after a word with Evans Scott decided to try first;
+though he confessed afterwards that he never expected to reach
+the top. Not for a longtime had he swarmed a rope, and to do so
+in thick clothing, heavy crampons, and with frost-bitten fingers
+seemed to him impossible. Of the struggle that followed he remembered
+little except that he got a rest when he could plant his foot in
+the belt of his own harness, and again when his feet held on the
+rings of the belt. 'Then came a mighty effort, till I reached the
+stirrup formed by the rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering
+all the strength that remained, I reached the sledge itself and
+flung myself on to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and
+it was perhaps then that I realized that his position had been
+the worst of all.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action for
+several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists, and not
+until their circulation came back could he get to work. With two on
+top and only one below the position, however, was very different,
+and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was landed on the surface.
+For a minute or two they could only stand and look at one another.
+Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,' which was the first sign of
+surprise he had shown.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their dep&ocirc;t,
+and passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised, sore
+and tired as they were,
+<a name="page_175"><span class="page">Page 175</span></a>
+Lashly sang merrily as he stirred the pot, while Scott and Evans
+sat on the sledge, shifted their foot-gear, spread out their clothes
+to dry, and talked cheerily about the happenings of the day.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except
+to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that they
+were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front of
+them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their second
+dep&ocirc;t and could look out towards the sea, they did not care
+how far round they might have to walk if only that stubborn sheet
+of ice had broken away. But it was too evident that their homeward
+track might be as straight as they chose, as only in the far distance
+was open water to be seen, and with sorrow they realized that there
+must still be many miles of ice between it and the <i>Discovery</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after
+an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725
+miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted
+the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered
+1,098 miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed
+heights which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the
+<i>Discovery</i> Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley
+on board, because all the rest of the company had gone to the north
+to saw through the ice; and during the few days of rest that he
+allowed himself before going to the sawing-camp, he was able to
+read the reports of the
+<a name="page_176"><span class="page">Page 176</span></a>
+officers who had led the other journeys, and to see what excellent
+work had been done during his absence.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially
+to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and
+Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but
+throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably,
+with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately
+plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions
+and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne
+also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great
+Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went
+on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting
+series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself
+belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell
+upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside
+the tent while he was at work inside it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier, but
+had also made a complete examination of the enormous and interesting
+pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great Barrier ice-mass
+with the land, and subsequently had spent much time in studying the
+windless area to the south of Ross Island. Also, with Armitage and
+Heald, he had made an excellent little journey, on which Armitage
+obtained some very good photographs,
+<a name="page_177"><span class="page">Page 177</span></a>
+sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions
+of the whole continent.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working
+strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the
+second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate
+themselves that the main part of their work was done.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_178"><span class="page">Page 178</span></a>
+CHAPTER X
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">RELEASE</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And Thor<br />
+Set his shoulder hard against the stern<br />
+To push the ship through...<br />
+...and the water gurgled in<br />
+And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;M. ARNOLD.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was
+going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he
+started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and
+a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt
+to free the <i>Discovery</i> were drawn up, there had been, of
+course, no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations
+began, and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly
+the same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended
+to the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There
+he directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom
+in Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations
+in accordance with the instructions he had received.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him,
+<a name="page_179"><span class="page">Page 179</span></a>
+as in the middle of December the open water, instead of being up
+to the islets, ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under
+the circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out to
+the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the middle
+of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at
+first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were
+all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land
+of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that,
+apart from the labour, they were having a most enjoyable time,
+though no one imagined that the work would be useful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must be
+in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much struck,'
+he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully carried on
+this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There could have
+been no officer or man among them who did not see from the first
+how utterly useless it was, and yet there has been no faltering
+or complaint, simply because all have felt that, as the sailor
+expresses it, "Them's the orders."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With twenty miles of ice between the <i>Discovery</i> and freedom,
+the possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so
+although most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans,
+Handsley and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate
+stock of penguins. And then Scott being unable
+<a name="page_180"><span class="page">Page 180</span></a>
+to do any good by remaining in the ship started off to the north
+with Wilson, the former being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see
+what chance there was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study
+the life of that region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with
+no hard marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely
+way, on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water
+when Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked
+round, and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with
+thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they
+had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was to
+have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating to
+think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two years.
+During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and the skua
+gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper they took
+soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran within a few
+yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight. 'Then,' Scott
+says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with seal kidneys;
+eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was simply delicious.
+I have come to the conclusion that life in the Antarctic Regions
+can be very pleasant.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast
+on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott,
+looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond,
+suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle reigned
+supreme, and while they were searching for
+<a name="page_181"><span class="page">Page 181</span></a>
+boots and other things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why,
+there's another,' and without any doubt two vessels were framed in
+the doorway. It had at once been taken for granted that the first
+ship was the <i>Morning</i>, but what in the name of fortune was
+the meaning of the other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine.
+The easiest and quickest way to find out was to go straight on
+board, for the ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles
+to the westward, but if they had followed this simple plan their
+companions on the <i>Discovery</i> would have known nothing about
+it, and would have been compelled to wait for their mails. So they
+started southward to find the penguin hunters, and then to send
+them to establish communications with the ship. For a long time
+no sight of the men could be seen, but after traveling about six
+miles Scott and Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of
+life about it; indeed they were within a hundred yards before in
+answer to their shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still
+munching the remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought
+they had not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained,
+they didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the
+matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't
+you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would be
+all right." In other words, they as good as said that life was so
+extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible object in
+worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief expedition.'
+When, however, they
+<a name="page_182"><span class="page">Page 182</span></a>
+had got their orders they were off at once, and Scott and Wilson went
+back to the ships and soon found out from Colbeck why the <i>Terra
+Nova</i> had accompanied the <i>Morning</i>, and how strangely the
+aspect of affairs had altered. Writing in his diary on that night
+Scott says, 'I can only record that in spite of the good home news,
+and in spite of the pleasure of seeing old friends again, I was
+happier last night than I am to-night.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of
+one were these. Scott's report taken by the <i>Morning</i> had left
+the strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to
+the south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to
+meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time enough
+to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities of the
+case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the Societies
+to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually the latter
+agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief expedition,
+provided that the <i>Morning</i>, as she stood, was delivered over
+to them. The Government naturally placed the management of affairs in
+the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the responsibility
+it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order that there should
+be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Terra Nova</i>, one of the finest of the whaling ships,
+was bought, and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry
+MacKay, was engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November
+1903 she layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in
+<a name="page_183"><span class="page">Page 183</span></a>
+December she was joined by the <i>Morning</i>, Captain Colbeck
+being directed to take charge of this joint venture until both ships
+could come under Scott's command.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships
+arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was
+not, however, the arrival of the <i>Terra Nova</i>, whose captain
+from the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another
+matter that made Scott so sad&mdash;and naturally sad&mdash;at
+this time.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation
+had formed the opinion that the <i>Discovery</i> was stuck fast
+in the ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion
+or not is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty
+to see that the expense of another relief expedition should be
+avoided. Consequently there was no other course open to them except
+to tell Scott to abandon the <i>Discovery</i>, if she could not
+be freed in time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But
+necessary as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions
+in a very cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a
+sailor would go through much rather than abandon his ship, but
+the ties which bound Scott and his company to the <i>Discovery</i>
+were very far beyond the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth
+of sentiment not in the least surprising when their associations
+with her are remembered.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving
+her had never entered their heads.
+<a name="page_184"><span class="page">Page 184</span></a>
+Some time she would be free again, and even if they had to spend
+a third winter in her they had determined to go through with it,
+and make themselves as comfortable as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were
+rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that unless
+a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks, they must bid
+a long farewell to their beloved ship and return to their homes
+as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief ships there fell
+the first and last cloud of gloom which was ever allowed on board
+the <i>Discovery</i>. And as day followed day with no improvement
+in the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until anyone might easily
+have imagined that an Antarctic expedition was a most dismal affair.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and
+this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I told
+them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence. I have
+not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten miles
+to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged to notify
+any changes in the ice, but day after day the only signal was 'No
+change in the ice conditions.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something that
+did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and instruments
+should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever the future
+held in
+<a name="page_185"><span class="page">Page 185</span></a>
+store he saw no reason why this should not be done, and to have
+anything at all to do during this trying time was a blessing; though
+he had by no means given up hope that the Discovery would be freed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a long spell at Cape Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship
+on the night of the 21st with news that was all the more welcome at
+such an anxious time. Strolling over the beach one day to inspect
+what he thought was a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was
+quite different from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to
+the camp for his gun. Two of the <i>Morning</i> officers were in
+camp with him, and all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange
+new beast. Their great fear was that they might only succeed in
+wounding it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite
+of the temperature of the water they waded round it before they
+attacked. These tactics were successful, but their quarry when
+dispatched was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to
+examine where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came
+over in the <i>Morning</i>, and with the aid of boats and ropes the
+carcass was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion
+that the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie
+Island, but never before seen within the Antarctic circle.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces
+broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships were
+four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight before. But,
+<a name="page_186"><span class="page">Page 186</span></a>
+if the conditions were to be as they had been two years before,
+thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in fifteen days,
+a far more rapid rate than it had been going during the previous
+fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of real promise
+occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway very slightly under
+the action of a long swell, its edge against the land rising and
+falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all very restless, constantly
+dashing up the hill to the lookout station or wandering from place
+to place to observe the effects of the swell. But it is long since
+we enjoyed such a cheerful experience as we get on watching the
+loose pieces of ice jostling one another at Hut Point.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February arrived
+and brought the best of news with it. During the day nothing unusual
+happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner that the excitement
+began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and a voice sang out down
+the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut
+Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking
+up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not
+thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than
+a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and
+carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was
+hurrying away to the north-west.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight;
+<a name="page_187"><span class="page">Page 187</span></a>
+the sun was low behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front
+was intensely white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking
+leads looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a
+sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of this
+peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that great
+ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the
+relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the
+first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company
+of spectators had clustered; although the little <i>Morning</i>,
+with her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to
+hold her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten
+those on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships
+crashed into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild
+excitement they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly
+heard.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener
+and keener. On came the <i>Terra Nova</i>, but in spite of all
+her mighty efforts the persistent little <i>Morning</i>, dodging
+right and left and seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at
+her side, and still seemed to have a chance of winning the race.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments,
+stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then a burst
+of frenzied cheering broke out. It
+<a name="page_188"><span class="page">Page 188</span></a>
+seemed to us almost too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all
+the thick ice had vanished, and there remained only the thin area
+of decayed floe which has lately made the approach to the ships so
+dangerous; a few minutes later the <i>Terra Nova</i> forged ahead
+and came crashing into the open, to be followed almost immediately
+by her stout little companion, and soon both ships were firmly
+anchored to all that remains of the <i>Discovery's</i> prison, the
+wedge that still holds in our small bay....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost side
+by side; a rope from the <i>Terra Nova</i> is actually secured to
+the <i>Discovery</i>. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly
+not we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was cracked
+in many places, and would doubtless have departed of its own accord
+in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to get away, decided
+to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently at 1 A.M. on February
+16 there was an explosion which shook the whole bay, and rudely
+disturbed not only the ice but also the slumbers of those who were
+not members of the explosion party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and when
+all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a thunderous
+report which shook the ship throughout, and then all was calm again.
+For a brief moment one might have imagined that nothing had happened,
+but then one saw that each
+<a name="page_189"><span class="page">Page 189</span></a>
+crack was slowly widening; presently there came the gurgle of water
+as it was sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute
+there was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the
+keel was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the
+great mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our
+good ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors
+with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was that
+the <i>Discovery</i> came to her own again&mdash;the right to ride
+the high seas.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or
+happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation
+they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after such
+a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard work lay
+in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder of their
+program. If the <i>Discovery</i> was free before the navigable season
+closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time in exploring
+the region to the westward of Cape North, but now after two years'
+imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme. Directly the relief
+ships had arrived he had asked them for as great a quantity as
+possible, but although the replies had at first been satisfactory,
+a long month's fight with wind and ice had sadly reduced the amount
+they could afford to give. The only thing to do was to get without
+any delay what could be spared, and on the afternoon of the 16th
+the <i>Terra Nova</i> came alongside to hand over her supply. 'The
+afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully calm and
+<a name="page_190"><span class="page">Page 190</span></a>
+bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on the termination
+of our long and successful struggle with the ice.... We little
+guessed what lay before us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved inscription
+to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit of Hut Point,
+and on the following day the small company landed together and
+stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott read some short
+prayers.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled back
+to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to their shipmate,
+but weather of this kind had been too common to attract attention.
+On that night Captain MacKay was dining in the <i>Discovery</i> for
+the first time, and a great effort had been made to show him how
+good an Antarctic feast could be. In the middle of dinner, however,
+word came down to Scott that the wind had sprung up, and although
+he expected nothing serious he went up to see what was happening.
+Then he saw they were in for a stiff blow, and reluctantly had to
+inform his guests of the fact. One glance at the sky satisfied
+MacKay, who was over the rail like a shot, and in a few minutes
+the <i>Terra Nova</i> was steaming for the open and lost in the
+drift.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig011.jpg" width="870" height="550"
+ alt="Figure 11">
+<br />THE 'TERRA NOVA' LEAVING THE ANTARCTIC.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did not
+altogether like the look of things and determined to get up steam as
+soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the engine-room
+after such a long period of disuse. But early in the morning
+<a name="page_191"><span class="page">Page 191</span></a>
+of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and the
+<i>Discovery</i> began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming
+manner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in
+spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I watched
+anxiously to see if the ship dragged.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in half
+an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot astern
+and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first, the
+steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant situation,
+as the distance grew shorter every minute, until the spray of the
+breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was soon followed by
+a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice. We rebounded and
+struck again, and our head was just beginning to falloff and the
+ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what would have happened
+then) when steam was announced.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone
+would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once around
+Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open sea before
+them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter of a mile out,
+though off the end there was a shallow patch which had to be cleared
+before safety could be reached. So finding that no headway was
+being made he began to edge out towards the Point, and all seemed
+well until, nearly opposite to the Point itself, he saw to his
+alarm that a strong current was sweeping past.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_192"><span class="page">Page 192</span></a>
+'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm
+over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the
+fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant
+after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with
+our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead
+to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to
+set us faster ashore.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that followed
+were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each moment the
+ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her from stem
+to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly that, strong
+as was her build, she could not long survive such awful blows.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and
+crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be
+done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility
+of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next best
+thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather moderated.
+Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could rely on the
+support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton already had
+made a list of weights by the removal of which the ship could be
+lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned to discuss the manner
+in which the anchors could be laid out he also had his scheme cut
+and dried.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after
+<a name="page_193"><span class="page">Page 193</span></a>
+they assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the
+<i>Discovery</i>. But when they were half-way through this silent
+meal Mulock, the officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said,
+'The ship's working astern, sir.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both wind
+and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But what
+surprised him even more was that the current, which had been running
+strongly to the north, had turned and was running with equal speed
+to the south. Each time that the ship lifted on a wave she worked
+two or three inches astern, and though she was still grinding heavily
+she no longer struck the bottom with such terrific force. Scarcely,
+however, had these facts been observed when Skelton rushed up to
+say that the inlets were free again.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together
+and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs
+were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve, and
+the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or two
+the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady grating
+under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and ceased as
+the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water.... Rarely,
+if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable plight as
+ours to find herself free and safe within the space of an hour....
+To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws fourteen feet cannot
+be a pleasant position&mdash;nor can there be a doubt
+<a name="page_194"><span class="page">Page 194</span></a>
+that the shocks which the <i>Discovery</i> sustained would have
+very seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short
+time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the
+18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the
+southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided
+to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and
+complete the coaling operations.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent,
+no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as a
+sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists,
+lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working
+with all their might on the coaling whips.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Morning</i> handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this
+was all the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the
+narrowest margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward
+without joining in any attempt at further exploration. 'His practical
+common sense told him he could be of little use to us, and with his
+usual loyalty he never hesitated to act for the best, at whatever
+sacrifice to his own hopes and wishes.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged that
+the three ships should journey up the coast together and then separate,
+the <i>Morning</i> proceeding to the north, while the <i>Discovery</i>
+and the <i>Terra Nova</i> turned west. The companies of both relief
+<a name="page_195"><span class="page">Page 195</span></a>
+ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the
+<i>Discovery</i> when she entered her first civilized port; so
+Scott fixed upon Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot
+at which they might meet before the final return to New Zealand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+February 20 saw the <i>Discovery</i> speeding along a stretch of
+coast that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously
+made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged
+to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now
+gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than
+this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking
+innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally
+indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery
+to his sketch-book.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the
+engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end; and on
+the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On inspection
+Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely shattered,
+and was held together by little more than its weight; as the tiller
+was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but with a lag of
+many degrees, so that the connection between the two was evidently
+insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that they could not
+hope to weather a gale without losing all control over the ship,
+and that no time was to be lost in shipping their spare rudder
+in place of the damaged one. So Scott determined to seek shelter
+in Robertson
+<a name="page_196"><span class="page">Page 196</span></a>
+Bay, and by night the damaged rudder had been hoisted on deck and
+the spare one prepared for lowering into its place. Since the
+<i>Discovery</i> had left winter quarters an almost incredible
+amount of work had been done to bring her into sea trim. Difficulty
+after difficulty had arisen, but the energy of the company had
+never slackened, and by February 25 Scott was able to say that
+everything was once more in order, though he was a little doubtful
+about the steering power of their spare rudder.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At this time it was all the more important that the ship should
+give no further trouble, because according to their program they
+were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite
+enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With high
+hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the point
+reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned to the
+west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice, however, was
+destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their advance, and on
+the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east and try to find a
+way around this formidable barrier. 'It is grievously disappointing
+to find the pack so far to the east; Ross carried the open water
+almost to Cape North.' And again on March 1, Scott sounds a note
+of lamentation: 'There can be no doubt that since leaving Victoria
+Land we have been skirting a continuous mass of pack, which must
+cover the whole sea south of the Balleny Islands. That it should
+have lain so far to the eastward this year is very annoying;
+<a name="page_197"><span class="page">Page 197</span></a>
+however, if we can push on upon this course we ought to strike the
+islands.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and
+by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others
+that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them
+considerably, and not until some time later was the problem solved.
+In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this region, and
+three years later Ross saw land which he imagined was to the southward
+of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it to be divided into three
+distinct masses named it the Russell Islands. Consequently Scott
+arrived expecting to see two groups of islands, and was naturally
+perplexed when only one group was to be seen. After, however, studying
+the accounts of these islands and comparing them with what he could
+actually see, he recognized that they had just passed Balleny's
+Sturge Island, which Balleny had seen from the north, and so could
+have had no idea of its length in a north-and-south line. Later
+Ross must have seen this same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite
+possible, from a great distance must have thought that it was divided
+into three, and hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate
+group. Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings
+to fix accurately the position of each island.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny
+Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes
+claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige
+of it could they
+<a name="page_198"><span class="page">Page 198</span></a>
+see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that Wilkes Land was
+once and for all definitely disposed of. With this negative, but
+nevertheless important, result, the exploring work ended, and although
+a lack of coal had prevented their cherished plan of rounding Cape
+North, they had at least the satisfaction of clearing up some
+geographical misconceptions in a more northerly latitude.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of
+greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on board
+the <i>Discovery</i>, for she was in very light trim and tossed
+about the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the
+greatest relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross Harbour
+on the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Neither the <i>Terra Nova</i> nor the <i>Morning</i> had yet arrived,
+and the days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart
+as possible before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus,
+in a few days, the <i>Discovery</i> looked as though she had spent
+her adventurous years in some peaceful harbor.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On March 19 the <i>Terra Nova</i> hove in sight, and was followed
+on the next day by the <i>Morning</i>. Both ships had experienced
+the most terrible weather, and everyone on board the little
+<i>Morning</i> declared that she had only been saved from disaster
+by the consummate seamanship of Captain Colbeck.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most
+favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1
+<a name="page_199"><span class="page">Page 199</span></a>
+off the Heads of Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely
+berthed alongside the jetty, from which they had sailed with such
+hearty wishes more than two years before.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered
+on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can
+never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express
+our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that
+could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full
+months before we set out on our last long voyage.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later they
+anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they replenished
+their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic observations
+in connection with their Southern Survey. And from the Falkland
+Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another testimony of
+the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The praise,' he wrote,
+'for whatever success we have had is really due to the ship's company
+as a whole rather than to individuals. That is not very clear,
+perhaps; what I mean is that the combination of individual effort
+for the common good has achieved our results, and the absence of
+any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout has been "share
+and share alike," and its most practical form lies, perhaps, in the
+fact that throughout our three years there has been no distinction
+between the food served to officers and men.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_200"><span class="page">Page 200</span></a>
+'Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no
+greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so
+loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic,
+for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition
+of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted, and
+for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to welcome
+and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy of their
+return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought that the
+end had come to those ties, which had held together the small band of
+the <i>Discovery</i> in the closest companionship and most unswerving
+loyalty.
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_201"><span class="page">Page 201</span></a>
+THE LAST EXPEDITION
+</h2>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_203"><span class="page">Page 203</span></a>
+PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION'
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">
+By Sir CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer,
+able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors,
+and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility
+to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living
+could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic
+Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object
+was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott
+entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence
+and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the
+history of Arctic traveling, combined with experience of different
+conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and
+founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings
+along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the
+discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination
+of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains&mdash;a
+range of great height and many hundreds
+<a name="page_204"><span class="page">Page 204</span></a>
+of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a distance
+out at sea&mdash;and above all the discovery of the great ice cap
+on which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable
+Polar journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff
+worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being
+recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his
+beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work.
+The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of
+battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that
+five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific,
+to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It
+was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely
+equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the Polar
+regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these
+shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement
+of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study, of
+physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before
+composed the staff of a Polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's
+objects were strictly scientific, including the completion and
+extension of his former discoveries. The results will be explained
+in the second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive
+and important. Never before, in the
+<a name="page_205"><span class="page">Page 205</span></a>
+Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal observations
+been taken, in one locality, during five years. It was also part
+of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by a long and most
+arduous journey, but here again his intention was, if possible,
+to achieve scientific results on the way, especially hoping to
+discover fossils which would throw light on the former history of
+the great range of mountains which he had made known to science.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The principal aim of this great man&mdash;for he rightly has his
+niche among the Polar <i>Dii Majores</i>&mdash;was the advancement
+of knowledge. From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable
+men of our time, and the vast number of readers of his journal
+will be deeply impressed with the beauty of his character. The
+chief traits which shone forth through his life were conspicuous in
+the hour of death. There are few events in history to be compared,
+for grandeur and pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent
+wilderness of snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his dearest
+friends beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil dropped from
+his dying grasp. There was no thought of himself, only the earnest
+desire to give comfort and consolation to others in their sorrow.
+His very last lines were written lest he who induced him to enter
+upon Antarctic work should now feel regret for what he had done.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of
+him, and never regretted his putting me in command of the
+<i>Discovery</i>.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_206"><span class="page">Page 206</span></a>
+The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain
+Scott between 1905 and 1910:
+</p>
+
+<table class="center">
+ <tr><td valign="top">January&nbsp;to&nbsp;July,&nbsp;1906</td>
+  <td>Admiralty (Assistant Director of Naval Intelligence.)</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">
+   Aug.&nbsp;21,&nbsp;1906,&nbsp;to&nbsp;Jan.&nbsp;1,&nbsp;1907</td>
+  <td><i>Victorious</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Egerton,
+   Rear-Admiral in the Atlantic Fleet).</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">
+    Jan.&nbsp;2,&nbsp;1907,&nbsp;to&nbsp;Aug.&nbsp;24,&nbsp;1907</td>
+  <td><i>Albermarle</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Egerton,
+   Rear-Admiral in the Atlantic Fleet).</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">
+    Aug.&nbsp;25,&nbsp;1907,&nbsp;to&nbsp;Jan.&nbsp;24,&nbsp;1908</td>
+  <td>Not actively employed afloat between these dates.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">
+    Jan.&nbsp;25,&nbsp;1908,&nbsp;to&nbsp;May&nbsp;29,&nbsp;1908</td>
+  <td><i>Essex</i> (Captain).</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">
+   May&nbsp;30,&nbsp;1908,&nbsp;to&nbsp;March&nbsp;23,&nbsp;1909</td>
+  <td><i>Bulwark</i> (Flag Captain to Rear-Admiral Colville,
+   Rear-Admiral the Nore Division, Home Fleet).</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed
+to H.M.S. <i>President</i> for British Antarctic Expedition June
+1, 1910.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_207"><span class="page">Page 207</span></a>
+On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was
+married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter
+Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for the
+British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his appeal
+resulted in &pound;10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund. Then
+the Government made a grant of &pound;20,000, and grants followed
+from the Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made to
+purchase the steamship <i>Terra Nova</i>, the largest and strongest
+of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing
+was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged
+upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave
+Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott
+from leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he
+sailed in the <i>Saxon</i> to South Africa, and there awaited the
+arrival of the <i>Terra Nova</i>.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_208"><span class="page">Page 208</span></a>
+BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910
+</h3>
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td colspan="3">SHORE PARTIES</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Officers</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td style="width: 2em;">&nbsp;</td>
+  <th>Name</th><th>Rank, &amp;c.</th></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Robert Falcon Scott</td>
+  <td><i>Captain, C.V.O., R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edward R. G. R. Evans</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Victor L. A. Campbell</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List)</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Henry R. Bowers</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.I.M.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Lawrence E. G. Oates</td>
+  <td><i>Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>G. Murray Levick</td>
+  <td><i>Surgeon, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edward L. Atkinson</td>
+  <td><i>Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist.</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Scientific Staff</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edward Adrian Wilson</td>
+  <td><i>B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the Scientific Staff,
+   and Zoologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>George C. Simpson</td>
+  <td><i>D.Sc., Meteorologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>T. Griffith Taylor</td>
+  <td><i>B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edward W. Nelson</td>
+  <td><i>Biologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Frank Debenham</td>
+  <td><i>B.A., B.Sc., Geologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Charles S. Wright</td>
+  <td><i>B.A., Physicist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Raymond E. Priestley</td>
+  <td><i>Geologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Herbert G. Ponting</td>
+  <td><i>F.R.G.S, Camera Artist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Cecil H. Meares</td>
+  <td><i>In Charge of Dogs.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Bernard C. Day</td>
+  <td><i>Motor Engineer.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Apsley Cherry-Garrard</td>
+  <td><i>B.A., Asst. Zoologist.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Tryggve Gran</td>
+  <td><i>Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R., B.A., Ski Expert.</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">
+<a name="page_209"><span class="page">Page 209</span></a>
+  <i>Men</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>W. Lashly</td>
+  <td><i>Chief Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>W. W. Archer</td>
+  <td><i>Chief Steward, late R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Thomas Clissold</td>
+  <td><i>Cook, late R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edgar Evans</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Robert Forde</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Thomas Crean</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Thomas S. Williamson</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Patrick Keohane</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>George P. Abbott</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Frank V. Browning</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Harry Dickason</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>F. J. Hooper</td>
+  <td><i>Steward, late R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Anton Omelchenko</td>
+  <td><i>Groom.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Demetri Gerof</td>
+  <td><i>Dog Driver.</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">SHIP'S PARTY</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3"><i>Officers, &amp;c.</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Harry L. L. Pennell</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Henry E. de P. Rennick</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Wilfred M. Bruce</td>
+  <td><i>Lieutenant, R.N.R.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Francis R. H. Drake</td>
+  <td><i>Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired), Secretary and
+   Meteorologist in Ship.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Denis G. Lillie</td>
+  <td><i>M.A., Biologist in Ship.</i></td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>James R. Dennistoun</td>
+  <td><i>In Charge of Mules in Ship.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Alfred B. Cheetham</td>
+  <td><i>R.N.R., Boatswain.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William Williams</td>
+  <td><i>Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N., 2nd Engineer.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William A. Horton</td>
+  <td><i>Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Francis E. C. Davies</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Shipwright, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Frederick Parsons</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William L. Heald</td>
+  <td><i>Late P.O., R.N.</i>
+<a name="page_210"><span class="page">Page 210</span></a>
+   </td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Arthur S. Bailey</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Albert Balson</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Joseph Leese</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>John Hugh Mather</td>
+  <td><i>Petty Officer, R.N.V.R.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Robert Oliphant</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Thomas F. McLeod</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Mortimer McCarthy</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William Knowles</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Charles Williams</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>James Skelton</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William McDonald</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>James Paton</td>
+  <td><i>Able Seaman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Robert Brissenden</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Edward A. McKenzie</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>William Burton</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Bernard J. Stone</td>
+  <td><i>Leading Stoker, R.N.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Angus McDonald</td>
+  <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Thomas McGillon</td>
+  <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Charles Lammas</td>
+  <td><i>Fireman.</i></td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>W. H. Neale</td>
+  <td><i>Steward.</i></td></tr>
+
+</table>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_211"><span class="page">Page 211</span></a>
+CHAPTER I
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THROUGH STORMY SEAS</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+The ice was here, the ice was there,<br />
+The ice was all around:<br />
+It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,<br />
+Like noises in a swound.&mdash;COLERIDGE.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic
+expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The
+selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers
+was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the
+applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of
+the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to
+the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer
+exists in the British race.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On June 15, 1910, the <i>Terra Nova</i> left Cardiff upon her great
+mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28, at
+Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done before
+she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual the kindness
+received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A month of strenuous labour followed, and then, on
+<a name="page_212"><span class="page">Page 212</span></a>
+November 26, they said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling
+at Port Chalmers set out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage
+of their voyage. Two days later they encountered a stiff wind from
+the N. W. and a confused sea.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the
+circumstances.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can
+devise&mdash;and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close
+side by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together and
+groom between&mdash;swaying, swaying continually to the plunging,
+irregular motion.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four
+more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very
+large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4.
+A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space
+hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were
+so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they
+were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was
+contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases,
+which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the poop
+and abreast the motor sledges.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley
+forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of
+coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between
+the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three
+dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although
+<a name="page_213"><span class="page">Page 213</span></a>
+they were given as much protection as possible, their position
+was far from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion,
+'a picture of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for
+these poor creatures.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and
+very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water over
+the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break loose on
+the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by the loose
+coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and swung against
+the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering rams, no lashings
+could possibly have withstood them, and so the only remedy was to
+set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and re-lash the cases.
+During this difficult and dangerous task seas continually broke
+over the men, and at such times they had to cling for dear life to
+some fixture to prevent themselves from being washed overboard. No
+sooner was some appearance of order restored than another unusually
+heavy wave tore away the lashings, and the work had to be done
+allover again.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the
+ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail
+and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night, reports
+came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their legs. But
+worse news was to follow, for in the early morning news came from
+the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and that the water had
+risen over the gratings.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_214"><span class="page">Page 214</span></a>
+From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center
+of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained.
+Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck
+gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with donkey
+engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water might be
+got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes of pumping
+invariably led to the same result&mdash;a general choking of the
+pumps.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger of
+becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have happened.
+The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble and its suction
+could not be reached, for as the water crept higher it got in contact
+with the boiler and eventually became so hot that no one could work
+at the suctions. A great struggle to conquer these misfortunes
+followed, but Williams had at last to confess that he was beaten
+and must draw fires.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black.
+The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop,
+a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of
+the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on
+the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead.
+It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the lee
+rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging to the
+main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which swept
+aft and high on the poop. On one
+<a name="page_215"><span class="page">Page 215</span></a>
+occasion I was waist deep when standing on the rail of the poop.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All that could be done for the time being was to organize the afterguard
+to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on the choked
+hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt to bale out
+the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets was passed
+up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous work was
+going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never for a moment
+lost their good spirits.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the
+pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room
+bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the
+coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared
+the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which
+were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came from
+the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had been
+overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the engine-room,
+and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties were able
+to stop their labours.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they might
+easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks of the
+ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five gallons
+of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost. Another
+dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke and he
+disappeared, but the next wave miraculously
+<a name="page_216"><span class="page">Page 216</span></a>
+washed him back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again,
+but anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching
+heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these long-suffering
+animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest, and Scott's earnest
+prayer was that there might be no more gales. 'December ought to
+be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always has been, and just now
+conditions point to fine weather. Well, we must be prepared for
+anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about these animals of ours.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things
+straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck
+and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition to
+fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December
+6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two
+days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze
+and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater
+than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the
+effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that
+they were almost constantly wet.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed,
+the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress
+was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they
+advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to appear.
+Yet, after the rough weather they had
+<a name="page_217"><span class="page">Page 217</span></a>
+been having, the calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived
+before it was expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort
+afforded to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the
+human element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise
+in spite of the imminence of delay.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal was
+going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put out the
+fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all the evidence
+of former voyages had been examined so that the best meridian to
+go south on might be chosen, and the conclusion arrived at was
+that the 178 W. was the best. They entered the pack more or less
+on this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting worse conditions
+than any ship had ever experienced&mdash;worse, indeed, than Scott
+imagined to be possible on any meridian which they might have chosen.
+But as very little was known about the movements of the pack the
+difficulties of making a choice may very easily be imagined, and,
+in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that the 178 W. was
+the best meridian did not change. 'The situation of the main bodies
+of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with which the floes are
+packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing winds. One cannot
+tell what winds have prevailed before one's arrival; therefore one
+cannot know much about the situation or density. Within limits
+the density is changing from day to day and even from hour to hour;
+such changes depend on the wind, but it may not necessarily be a
+local wind,
+<a name="page_218"><span class="page">Page 218</span></a>
+so that at times they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes
+pressing closely against one another at a given time, and an hour
+or two afterwards a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each.
+When the floes are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes
+impossible to force a way through, but when there is release of
+pressure the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag
+path.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at
+10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and
+got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything
+as good as this life. The novelty, interest, colour, animal life,
+and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at
+present,' one of the company wrote on that same day&mdash;an abundant
+proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with
+them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to
+progress&mdash;on the Monday&mdash;with much bumping and occasional
+stoppages, but on the following day they were again firmly and
+tightly wedged in the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty
+of the experience prevented any sense of impatience, though to
+Scott the strain of waiting and wondering what he ought to do as
+regards the question of coal was bound to be heavy.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours
+of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of the
+fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations were
+also constantly
+<a name="page_219"><span class="page">Page 219</span></a>
+taken, while Wilson painted some delightful pictures and Ponting
+took a number of beautiful photographs of the pack and bergs. But
+as day followed day and hopes of progress were not realized, Scott,
+anxious to be free, decided on Monday, December 19, to push west.
+'Anything to get out of these terribly heavy floes. Great patience
+is the only panacea for our ill case. It is bad luck.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be
+reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around them.
+And what to do under the circumstances called for most difficult
+decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead loss of two
+tons of coal when the boilers were again heated. But these two
+tons only covered a day under banked fires, so that for anything
+longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving to put out the fires.
+Thus at each stoppage Scott was called upon to decide how long it
+was likely to last.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but
+although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry
+evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the table
+and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute two songs
+to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising circumstance,'
+Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should be so keen
+on singing.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect
+of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being
+that everyone was
+<a name="page_220"><span class="page">Page 220</span></a>
+prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite regardless of the
+results of his labours. But on Wednesday, December 28, the ponies,
+despite the unremitting care and attention that Oates gave to them,
+were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These animals are now the great
+consideration, balanced as they are against the coal expenditure.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many of
+the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared to
+be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott decided
+to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once more in the
+open sea.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during
+this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one
+tons[1] of coal had been used, an average of six miles to the ton,
+and although these were not pleasant figures to contemplate, Scott
+considered that under the exceptional conditions they might easily
+have been worse. For the ship herself he had nothing but praise to
+give. 'No other ship, not even the <i>Discovery</i>, would have
+come through so well.... As a result I have grown strangely attached
+to the <i>Terra Nova</i>. As she bumped the floes with mighty shocks,
+crushing and grinding her way through some, twisting and turning
+to avoid others, she seemed like a living thing fighting a great
+fight. If only she had more economical engines she would be suitable
+in all respects.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: When the <i>Terra Nova</i> left Lyttelton she had 460
+tons of coal on board.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_221"><span class="page">Page 221</span></a>
+Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many
+of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their own
+specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those who
+had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find any
+kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to help
+everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has been heard
+on board. The inner life of our small community is very pleasant
+to think upon, and very wonderful considering the extremely small
+space in which we are confined. The attitude of the men is equally
+worthy of admiration. In the forecastle as in the wardroom there is
+a rush to be first when work is to be done, and the same desire to
+sacrifice selfish consideration to the success of the expedition.
+It is very good to be able to write in such high praise of one's
+companions, and I feel that the possession of such support ought
+to ensure success. Fortune would be in a hard mood indeed if it
+allowed such a combination of knowledge, experience, ability, and
+enthusiasm to achieve nothing.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their
+favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern blizzard
+met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind and sea
+increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at 6 A.M. ice
+was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe course would
+have been to go about and stand to the east, but on this occasion
+<a name="page_222"><span class="page">Page 222</span></a>
+Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble if he could get the
+ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed a stream of ice over
+which the sea was breaking heavily, and the danger of being among
+loose floes in such a sea was acutely realized. But presently they
+came to a more compact body of floes, and running behind this they
+were agreeably surprised to find themselves in comparatively smooth
+water. There they lay to in a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous
+position had achieved one that was safe as long as their temporary
+shelter lasted.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the day passed their protection, though still saving them from
+the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean to
+depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At
+10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but
+splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in
+sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous&mdash;the latter
+from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark
+as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it. I
+believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty miles
+farther&mdash;such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress
+was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached
+the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage
+they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station
+at this Cape, and the prospect had
+<a name="page_223"><span class="page">Page 223</span></a>
+seemed to become increasingly fascinating the more they talked of it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the whale
+boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor, Priestley,
+and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore, they discovered
+that the swell made it impossible for them to land.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied
+us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting
+and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of
+development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant, but
+fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of this
+incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out of the
+question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me, for there,
+about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the old bay ice
+about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin chick was standing
+disconsolately stranded, and close by stood one faithful old Emperor
+parent asleep. This young Emperor was still in the down, a most
+interesting fact in the bird's life history at which we had rightly
+guessed, but which no one had actually observed before.... This
+bird would have been a treasure to me, but we could not risk life
+for it, so it had to remain where it was.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their
+station at Cape Crozier, and this
+<a name="page_224"><span class="page">Page 224</span></a>
+was all the harder to bear because every detail of the shore promised
+well for a wintering party. There were comfortable quarters for the
+hut, ice for water snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing,
+proximity to the Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins,
+good ground for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the
+Southern Road with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It
+is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a spot.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The <i>Discovery's</i> post-office was still standing as erect as
+when it had been planted, and comparisons between what was before
+their eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed
+to have occurred anywhere&mdash;a result that in the case of the
+Barrier caused very great surprise.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey,
+the program of which was:
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Bruce continually checking speed with hand log.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.<br />
+Nelson noting results.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.<br />
+Cherry-Garrard noting results.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.<br />
+Atkinson noting results.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.<br />
+Wright noting results.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.<br />
+Drake noting results.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_225"><span class="page">Page 225</span></a>
+'We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to
+the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed
+since <i>Discovery</i> days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff
+in the same place.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came
+in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was
+good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this
+side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such a
+familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place for
+winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the Barrier,
+and a cape, which in the <i>Discovery</i> days had been called 'the
+Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old <i>Discovery</i>
+quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue,
+and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in
+the season, and that when they froze over again the ice would soon
+become firm.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw,
+as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering
+station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest
+and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most
+favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which
+was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication
+being established at an early date with Cape Armitage.[1] Not a
+moment was wasted, and while Scott was
+<a name="page_226"><span class="page">Page 226</span></a>
+on shore Campbell took the first steps towards landing the stores.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further,
+on one of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the <i>Discovery</i>
+hut.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the landing
+began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors were soon
+hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and the tons of
+sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories
+appeared to be in perfect condition. Then came the turn of the
+ponies, and although it was difficult to make some of them enter
+the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion and got most of them in
+by persuasion, while the ones which refused to be persuaded were
+simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all are thin and some
+few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the evident
+vitality which they still possessed&mdash;some were even skittish.
+I cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely
+picketed on the floe.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning, and
+ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The chief
+trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins,
+the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the proceedings and
+a total disregard for their own safety, with the result that a
+number of them were killed in spite of innumerable efforts to teach
+the penguins to keep out of reach, they only squawked and ducked
+as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass?
+Let us alone.' These incidents naturally demoralized the dogs and
+annoyed Meares, who
+<a name="page_227"><span class="page">Page 227</span></a>
+while trying to stop one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs
+and was carried along until they reached the penguins of their
+desire.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing one
+and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success, but
+they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the site
+for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped on
+shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days. Nearly
+all the timber, &amp;c., for the hut and a supply of food for both
+ponies and dogs had also been landed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Despite this most strenuous day's labour, all hands were up again
+at 5 A.M. on Thursday.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works
+and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the
+scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary
+scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting
+the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived
+rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly
+appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard
+weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious
+danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern
+rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this.
+I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales with
+this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting, who was
+standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and ran
+<a name="page_228"><span class="page">Page 228</span></a>
+towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts, which
+had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole floe under
+him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. One could hear
+the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the ice and struck
+it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the ice, setting
+it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and was able
+to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance also, the splits
+had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of them
+fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared our
+astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads shot
+vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made...
+There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see what had happened
+to Ponting and the dogs....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually skirt
+the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up anyone
+who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts
+that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were
+able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2 feet), and
+that they could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear
+that they are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future
+we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they
+might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble
+had been taken to obtain
+<a name="page_229"><span class="page">Page 229</span></a>
+the most suitable material for Polar work, and the three motor
+sledge tractors were the outcome of experiments made at Lantaret in
+France and at Lillehammer and Fefor in Norway, with sledges built
+by the Wolseley Motor Company from suggestions offered principally
+by B. T. Hamilton, R. W. Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted
+objection to cruelty in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and
+almost pathetic, desire that these sledges should be successful;
+over and over again he expressed his hopes and fears of them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard,
+the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the
+only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the
+cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the
+necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday the
+third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott, leaving
+Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started for the
+shore with a single man load.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that
+it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the
+ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the
+machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through; and
+while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was seen to
+give, and slowly the machine went right through and disappeared.
+The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the rope, but it
+cut through the ice towards them with an increasing strain,
+<a name="page_230"><span class="page">Page 230</span></a>
+and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half a minute
+later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the two best
+motors was lying at the bottom of the sea.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was clear
+that those who were on shore were practically cut off from the
+ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to the
+north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near
+ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to
+Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way along
+the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again the
+work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In this
+Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single case
+he did not know nor a single article on which he could not at once
+place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was checked
+by him.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound,
+the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of
+Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on
+board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last
+we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We
+are LANDED eight days after our arrival&mdash;a very good record.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_231"><span class="page">Page 231</span></a>
+CHAPTER II
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">DEP&Ocirc;T LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+And the deed of high endeavour<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Was no more to the favoured few.<br />
+But brain and heart were the measure<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Of what every man might do.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;RENNELL RODD.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While the landing was being carried out, the building party had
+worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could
+have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small
+party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to
+serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the
+cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable
+quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and
+Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott
+could begin to think about the dep&ocirc;t journey. The arrangements
+of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation
+he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once,
+and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal:
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_232"><span class="page">Page 232</span></a>
+'He (Scott) wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie
+Evans, and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice
+of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men.
+It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it
+is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead
+of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate....
+About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so
+many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my
+own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice
+towards the end and a most keen competition&mdash;<i>and</i> a
+universal lack of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete
+absence of any jealous feeling in any single one of any of the
+comparatively large number who at present stand a chance of being
+on the last piece next summer.... I have never been thrown in with
+a more unselfish lot of men&mdash;each one doing his utmost fair
+and square in the most cheery manner possible.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10
+A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott
+read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but
+unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not
+fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the two
+allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior animals. At
+this time the party to be led by Campbell was known as the Eastern
+Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing on King
+<a name="page_233"><span class="page">Page 233</span></a>
+Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north part of
+Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern Party.
+Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is evident, but
+in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it like the gentleman
+he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine
+dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started
+to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old <i>Discovery</i>
+hut, a most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin
+they found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the hut
+for shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such
+a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old
+comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I
+went to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression
+of civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this
+should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and
+finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate
+predecessors oppressed me horribly.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found
+much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely
+cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost
+bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and
+on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare
+<a name="page_234"><span class="page">Page 234</span></a>
+tableland. The paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible
+on the cross put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if
+it had just been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down
+it could with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in
+the afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans,
+and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is
+really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest
+that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and
+roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation on
+both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings weighs
+six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore and the
+result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst the total
+weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the time and attention
+given to its planning.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain spare
+clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a solid stable
+to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present these animals
+are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow close by, above
+them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the dogs extend in other
+long lines. Behind them again is a most convenient slab of hard
+ice in which we have dug two caverns. The first is a larder now
+fully stocked with seals, penguins, mutton, and beef. The other
+is devoted to science in the shape of differential magnetic
+<a name="page_235"><span class="page">Page 235</span></a>
+instruments which will keep a constant photographic record of magnetic
+changes. Outside these caverns is another little hut for absolute
+magnetic observations, and above them on a small hill, the dominant
+miniature peak of the immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological
+instruments and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill on
+a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases
+ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the ice-foot
+below, you will have some idea of our immediate vicinity. As for
+our wider surroundings it would be difficult to describe their
+beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape Evans is one of the
+many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands closest under the
+mountain, so that always towering above us we have the grand snowy
+peak with its smoking summit. North and south of us are deep bays,
+beyond which great glaciers come rippling over the lower slopes
+to thrust high blue-walled snouts into the sea. The sea is blue
+before us, dotted with shining bergs or ice floes, whilst far over
+the Sound, yet so bold and magnificent as to appear near, stand
+the beautiful Western Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks,
+their deep glacial valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain
+scenery that can have few rivals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the
+most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and most
+of the night
+<a name="page_236"><span class="page">Page 236</span></a>
+in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera and cinematograph.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of
+its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity
+of the mansion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9)
+the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of cases
+containing things which suffer from being frozen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and next it
+on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his instruments, and
+on the other a space devoted to charts, chronometers and instruments
+generally.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans
+have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five
+beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and
+Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space
+opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a
+bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space
+set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a 12-foot
+table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely
+comfortable and conveniently placed for his work&mdash;in fact
+we could not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will
+have a small enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home.
+We shall be away sledding late this year and off again
+<a name="page_237"><span class="page">Page 237</span></a>
+early next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that
+such comfort awaits our return.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound they
+had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon their
+dep&ocirc;t journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly
+from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however,
+required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect
+of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated
+a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding
+gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers,
+sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the
+stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality. 'Our
+clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running through
+the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride that there
+is not a single arrangement which I would have had altered....
+Everything looks hopeful for the dep&ocirc;t journey if only we can
+get our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a serious
+suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report that the
+<i>Terra Nova</i> was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape,
+saw at once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable
+position.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in
+his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of
+him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete
+disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one
+<a name="page_238"><span class="page">Page 238</span></a>
+consolation in determining that, whatever happened, nothing should
+interfere with the southern work.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of
+the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she
+struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously
+from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no
+ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly,
+and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that
+an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling
+produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again
+to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had
+been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent,
+but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was
+getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she gathered
+stern way and was clear.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and
+she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I hope
+the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here and now
+I must record the splendid manner in which these men are working.
+I find it difficult to express my admiration for the manner in
+which the ship is handled and worked under these very trying
+circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me about it to-night;
+I think I like him more every day.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and
+satisfied themselves that the ice
+<a name="page_239"><span class="page">Page 239</span></a>
+was good; and with the 25th fixed for the date of departure it was
+not too much to hope that the ice would remain for three or four
+more days. The ponies for Campbell's party were put on board on
+the 22nd, but when Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning
+he saw, to his astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay
+in a solid mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and
+a wonderful day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges
+and equipment were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed;
+in short everything to do with the dep&ocirc;t party was hurriedly
+put on board except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and
+try to get over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication between
+the new station at Cape Evans and the <i>Discovery</i> hut, for the
+rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island prevented
+a passage by land. The Road provided level going below the cliffs
+of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending glacier;
+and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier itself.
+It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays and the sea-ice
+along the coast, which only stayed fast for the season. Thus it
+was most important to get safely over the dangerous part of this
+Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To wait until
+after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut Point would
+have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well enough that
+the Road might not hold for many more hours,
+<a name="page_240"><span class="page">Page 240</span></a>
+and it actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott
+and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led
+out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test the
+track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to inspect
+Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities of
+sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &amp;c. &amp;c.;
+but the <i>pi&egrave;ce de r&eacute;sistance</i> was the capture
+of several bucketsful of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces
+had been previously caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling
+that it alone repays the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the
+ship skirted the Island, and with a telescope those on board could
+watch the string of ponies steadily progressing over the sea-ice
+past the Razor Back Islands; and, as soon as they were seen to
+be well advanced, the ship steamed on to the Glacier Tongue, and
+made fast in the narrow angle made by the sea-ice with the glacier.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on
+the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without
+much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier,
+and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But when
+Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30 feet
+across, it was evident that they must get past it on the glacier,
+and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_241"><span class="page">Page 241</span></a>
+Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to start
+again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their loads having
+already been taken on the floe. At first all went well, but when
+the animals got down on the floe level and Oates led across an
+old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at the edge and
+sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it sank deeper and
+deeper until only its head and forelegs showed above the slush.
+With some trouble ropes were attached to these, and the poor animal,
+looking very weak and miserable, was eventually pulled out.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After this experience the other five ponies were led farther round
+to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small feed was
+given to them, and then they were started off with their loads.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting
+on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed to
+security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott, writing
+from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All have arrived
+safely, and this evening we start our sledges south. I expect we
+shall have to make three relays to get all our stores on to the
+Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land a geologising
+party on the west side of the Sound, and then to proceed to King
+Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham, Wright,
+and P.O. Evans, and for reasons
+<a name="page_242"><span class="page">Page 242</span></a>
+already mentioned the Eastern party were eventually known as the
+Northern party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier
+and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one team
+of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on the
+following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the men
+had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never
+sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all
+these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily
+trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed
+their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward.
+God bless them.'
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p class="indent">
+How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's
+party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story
+of their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of
+Campbell, Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and
+the courage shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless
+difficulties and privations has met with the unstinted admiration
+that it most thoroughly deserved.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For the dep&ocirc;t laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12
+men (Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans,
+Gran, Meares, Forde,
+<a name="page_243"><span class="page">Page 243</span></a>
+Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs. Of the dogs
+he felt at this time more than a little doubtful, but the ponies
+were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They work with such
+extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and cheerfully,
+following in each other's tracks. The great drawback is the ease
+with which they sink in soft snow: they go through in lots of places
+where the men scarcely make an impression&mdash;they struggle pluckily
+when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to
+complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained
+to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labour of this day
+tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the next
+day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs of
+breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the situation.
+In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they got into
+better condition, began to do excellent work. During Sunday they
+ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the Barrier to
+the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home dep&ocirc;t. 'I
+don't think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but it's
+just as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp must deserve
+its distinctive title of "Safety."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely
+handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable
+account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of
+<a name="page_244"><span class="page">Page 244</span></a>
+trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs....
+Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble of
+that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole a few
+yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him before one
+can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the whip&mdash;and
+everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness of the dog
+next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that takes much
+patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the whole team should
+get away with the sledge and its load, and leave one behind....
+I never did get left the whole of this dep&ocirc;t journey, but I
+was often very near it, and several times had only time to seize a
+strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged along helter-skelter
+over everything that came in the way, till the team got sick of
+galloping and one could struggle to one's feet again. One gets very
+wary and wide-awake when one has to manage a team of eleven dogs and
+a sledge load by oneself, but it was a most interesting experience,
+and I had a delightful leader, "Stareek" by name&mdash;Russian for
+"Old Man," and he was the most wise old man.... Dog driving like
+this in the orthodox manner is a very different thing from the
+beastly dog driving we perpetrated in the <i>Discovery</i> days....
+I got to love all my team and they got to know me well.... Stareek
+is quite a ridiculous "old man" and quite the nicest, quietest,
+cleverest old dog I have ever come across. He looks in face as if
+he knew all the wickedness of all the world
+<a name="page_245"><span class="page">Page 245</span></a>
+and all its cares, and as if he were bored to death by them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until they
+started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we must
+travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous than
+successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great difficulty
+in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott disclosed
+his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with five weeks'
+food for men and animals, then to dep&ocirc;t a fortnight's supply
+after twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp. The loads
+for ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little over 600
+lbs., and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from sledges.
+Whether the ponies could manage these loads depended on the surface,
+and there was a great possibility that the dogs would have to be
+lightened, but under the circumstances it was the best plan they
+could hope to carry out.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair
+of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect. In
+places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he strolled
+round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately after this
+experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made to get more
+snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson had started,
+on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to the station
+twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned with the news
+that there was no
+<a name="page_246"><span class="page">Page 246</span></a>
+possibility of reaching Cape Evans, and an additional stroke of
+bad fortune fell when Atkinson's foot, which had been troublesome
+for some time, was examined and found to be so bad that he had
+to be left behind with Crean as a companion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,'
+Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter
+station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the
+Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with
+all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we
+find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent
+a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies,
+but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned
+this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right
+sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year
+is a help for next.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig012.jpg" width="874" height="550"
+ alt="Figure 12">
+<br />PONY CAMP ON THE BARRIER.
+<br /><i>Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after
+marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes, he
+found that they had been left behind, and Gran&mdash;whose expertness
+on ski was most useful&mdash;immediately volunteered to go back
+and get them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's
+suggestion they had decided to take to night marching. And so at
+12.30 A.M. they started off once more on a surface that was bad
+at first but gradually improved, until just before camping time
+Bowers, who was leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several
+of the others, following close behind
+<a name="page_247"><span class="page">Page 247</span></a>
+him, shared the same fate, and soon three ponies were plunging
+and struggling in a drift, and had to be unharnessed and led round
+from patch to patch until firmer ground was reached.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put on
+Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he settled
+down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only that but
+also another over places into which he had previously been plunging.
+Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great help to their
+work had been left behind at the station, and it was all the more
+trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed in the snow, and
+panting and heaving from the strain, when the remedies for his
+state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible to reach.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies, on
+a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of bad
+weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on Saturday
+a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp for three
+days. 'No fun to be out of the tent&mdash;but there are no shirkers
+with us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the ponies; Meares and
+Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us as occasion required.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but when
+it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the effects
+of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished the march
+listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_248"><span class="page">Page 248</span></a>
+But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load
+was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and led
+his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would soon
+improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to be kept
+alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the journey would
+have to be curtailed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be stronger.
+'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott wrote on
+Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for the day an
+account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of our sleeping-bags
+about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout to the Soldier[1] "How
+are things?" There is a response suggesting readiness, and soon
+after figures are busy amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling
+work for the fingers and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come
+off the animals, the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment
+are loaded on the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one
+by one the animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to
+the sledge. Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep
+such a nervous creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt
+one feels impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy
+fellows. Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and
+ends.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Oates.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few
+pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking their
+tent. With numbed fingers on
+<a name="page_249"><span class="page">Page 249</span></a>
+our horse's bridle and the animal striving to turn its head from
+the wind one feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says "All
+right, Bowers, go ahead," and Birdie leads his big animal forward,
+starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got
+cold and at the word they are off, the Soldier's and one or two
+others with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery
+sastrugi,[1] and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty
+in maintaining the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and
+in ten minutes the column has settled itself to steady marching.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Irregularities formed by the wind on a snow-plain.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or
+another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone.
+These are the only real incidents of the march&mdash;for the rest
+it passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation.
+The weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon
+up in line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a
+single halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop
+long and a very few minutes found us on the go again.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle.
+Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent
+mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket
+lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two other
+sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we are
+drawn up in camp formation. The picket
+<a name="page_250"><span class="page">Page 250</span></a>
+lines are run across at right angles to the line of advance and
+secured to the two sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies
+are on the lines covered, tents up again and cookers going.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp,
+have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks.
+They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after
+our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into
+an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp
+forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and
+within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags....
+At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow
+walls and improving their rugs, &amp;c.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult,
+and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed
+signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday
+morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had
+to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to
+play an important part in the future. By this time three of the
+ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott
+decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard, and
+Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by Bowers'
+imperviousness to
+<a name="page_251"><span class="page">Page 251</span></a>
+cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful. Throughout the night he
+has worn no head-gear but a common green felt hat kept on with a
+chin-stay and affording no cover whatever for the ears. His face
+and ears remain bright red. The rest of us were glad to have thick
+Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have never seen anyone so unaffected
+by the cold. To-night he remained outside a full hour after the
+rest of us had got into the tent. He was simply pottering about
+the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, &amp;c. Cherry-Garrard
+is remarkable because of his eyes. He can only see through glasses
+and has to wrestle with all sorts of inconveniences in consequence.
+Yet one could never guess it&mdash;for he manages somehow to do
+more than his share of the work.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so
+bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and the
+soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps and
+made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they struggled
+on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace, and when they
+were three-quarters of a mile behind the others the dog teams (which
+always left the camp after the others) overtook them. Then the dogs
+got out of hand and attacked Weary Willy, who put up a sterling
+fight but was bitten rather badly before Meares and Gran could
+drive off the dogs. Afterwards it was discovered that Weary Willy's
+load was much heavier than that of the other ponies, and an attempt
+to continue the march had quickly
+<a name="page_252"><span class="page">Page 252</span></a>
+to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some compensation
+for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large snow wall, and
+some extra sacking, and on the following day he showed appreciation
+of these favors by a marked improvement. Bowers' pony, however,
+refused work for the first time, and Oates was more despondent
+than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to see that this is a
+characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays every attention to
+the weaker horses.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers'
+pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn back
+on the following day. During the last march out the temperature fell
+to -21&deg; with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were
+frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely,
+but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to
+feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing
+such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will
+find spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the
+point of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which
+gives him much trouble&mdash;this is the worse prospect for summit
+work. I have been wondering how I shall stick the summit again,
+this cold spell gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but
+one must be prepared for a pretty good doing.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dep&ocirc;t was built during the next day, February 17, Lat.
+79&deg; 29' S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_253"><span class="page">Page 253</span></a>
+Stores left in dep&ocirc;t:
+</p>
+
+<table border="0">
+ <tr><td class="right">lbs.</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">245</td>
+  <td>7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">12</td>
+  <td>2 days' provision bags for 1 unit</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">8</td>
+  <td>8 weeks' tea</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">31</td>
+  <td>6 weeks' extra butter</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">176</td>
+  <td>lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit)</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">85</td>
+  <td>8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit)</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">850</td>
+  <td>5 sacks of oats</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">424</td>
+  <td>4 bales of fodder</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">250</td>
+  <td>Tank of dog biscuit</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right" style="border-bottom: 1px solid black;">100</td>
+  <td>2 cases of biscuit</td></tr>
+ <tr><td class="right">2181</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td colspan="2">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>1 skein white line</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>1 set breast harness</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>2 12 ft. sledges</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>2 pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>1 <i>Minimum Thermometer</i>[1]</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>1 tin Rowntree cocoa</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>1 tin matches</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: See <a href="#page_337">page 337</a>.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80&deg;, he was satisfied that
+they had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed
+the ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff
+and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes
+to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the
+sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The dep&ocirc;t
+cairn was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party
+had the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to
+show up for many miles.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_254"><span class="page">Page 254</span></a>
+CHAPTER III
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">PERILS</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;...Yet I argue not<br />
+Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot<br />
+Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer<br />
+Right onward.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;MILTON.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard
+went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates
+and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent marches
+were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as Scott was
+to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened to the
+other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied with the
+daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came in their
+rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a most
+serious disaster.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday
+night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could
+be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an
+hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined
+<a name="page_255"><span class="page">Page 255</span></a>
+pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the teams
+were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams driven by
+Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,' Cherry-Garrard
+says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after another, like
+dogs going down a hole after a rat.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished
+from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader,
+put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold.
+The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and
+Meares jumped aside.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually been
+traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped
+on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss. 'Why the
+sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall never know.
+I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must have taken us
+down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear of the bridge
+and anchored, they peered into the depths of the cracks. The dogs,
+suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions, were howling dismally
+and almost frantic with terror. Two of them had dropped out of
+their harness and, far below, could be seen indistinctly on a
+snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the chain had bitten deep
+into the snow at the side of the crevasse and with the weight below
+could not possibly be moved.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and Cherry-Garrard,
+the latter hurriedly
+<a name="page_256"><span class="page">Page 256</span></a>
+bringing the Alpine rope, the exact position of which on the sledge
+he most fortunately knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the
+team was not by any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt
+failed. In spite of their determined efforts they could get not
+an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope,
+which with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the
+snow.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a definite
+plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent, cooker, and
+sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then Scott, seizing
+the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the tent-poles across
+the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get a few inches on the
+leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness was immediately cut.
+The next step was to secure the leading rope to the main trace and
+haul up together. By this means one dog was rescued and unlashed,
+but the rope already had cut so far back at the edge that efforts
+to get more of it were useless.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig013.jpg" width="555" height="709"
+ alt="Figure 13">
+<br />SNOWED-UP TENT AFTER THREE DAYS' BLIZZARD.
+<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. T. Gran.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should
+have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap
+and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and
+pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored trace
+while the others worked at the leader end. The leading rope, however,
+was so very small that Scott was afraid of its breaking, and Meares
+was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of
+<a name="page_257"><span class="page">Page 257</span></a>
+the trace; when this had been done the chance of rescuing the dogs
+at once began to improve.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen
+were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other
+dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see
+if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled.
+The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the
+depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and
+insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm,
+and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the
+surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose
+above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to
+stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three
+of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end.
+That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he
+never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them.
+When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring,
+but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this is
+running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it
+was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated
+themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott
+and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed
+<a name="page_258"><span class="page">Page 258</span></a>
+outright, but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful
+signs of recovery after their terrible experience.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were
+as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed a
+very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is certain,
+the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with men sitting
+on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the teams and the
+Russian custom must be dropped.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to Scott's
+great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return journey. Forde
+had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher, and although the
+greatest care had also been given to Blossom, both of them were
+left on the Southern Road. The remaining one of the three, James
+Pigg, had managed not only to survive but actually to thrive, and,
+severe as the loss of the two ponies was, some small consolation
+could be gained from the fact that they were the oldest of the
+team, and the two which Oates considered to be the least useful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard and
+Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished to
+find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable, no
+one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag containing
+a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But presently what
+turned out to be the true
+<a name="page_259"><span class="page">Page 259</span></a>
+solution of this curious state of affairs was guessed, namely, that
+Atkinson and Crean had been on their way from the hut to Safety
+Camp as the others had come from the camp to the hut, and later
+on Scott saw their sledge track leading round on the sea-ice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened
+to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round Cape
+Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety Camp,
+but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred yards
+of their destination that they saw three tents instead of two,
+and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner, however,
+had Scott received his letters than his feelings of relief were
+succeeded by sheer astonishment.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents of
+the mail bag which Atkinson gave me&mdash;a letter from Campbell
+setting out his doings and the finding of <i>Amundsen</i> established
+in the Bay of Whales.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, as
+well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though
+this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the honour
+of the country without fear or panic.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace
+to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles&mdash;I
+never thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to the
+ice. His
+<a name="page_260"><span class="page">Page 260</span></a>
+plan for running them seems excellent. But above and beyond all
+he can start his journey early in the season&mdash;an impossible
+condition with ponies.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had, after
+landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point, proceeded along
+the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across Amundsen camped in
+the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however, for Campbell's party
+could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was a great disappointment
+to us all, but there was nothing for it but to return to McMurdo
+Sound to communicate with the main party, and then try to effect a
+landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet or as far to the westward
+as possible on the north coast of Victoria Land, and if possible
+to explore the unknown coast west of Cape North. We therefore made
+the best of our way to Cape Evans, and arrived on the evening of
+the 8th. Here I decided to land the two ponies, as they would be
+very little use to us on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land,
+and in view of the Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party
+would require all the transport available. After landing the ponies
+we steamed up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there,
+taking Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point,
+where the dep&ocirc;t party would call on their way back.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news which
+was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he refused
+to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_261"><span class="page">Page 261</span></a>
+Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and
+Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and
+Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and
+Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James Pigg,
+started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out and saw
+a short black line on the horizon towards White Island. Presently
+he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions, but they
+were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp; so when the
+latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers, but was glad to
+see five pony walls and consequently to know that all the animals
+were still alive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Having dep&ocirc;ted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard
+and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James Pigg
+by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in the
+tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday did
+Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were without
+exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially in
+a pitiable condition.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp, arrangements
+were made immediately for a general shift to Hut Point, and about
+four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson and Meares got
+safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to start, the plan
+being for them to follow in the tracks of the dogs; the route was
+over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing to the spread of
+water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_262"><span class="page">Page 262</span></a>
+At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight
+was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on
+with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott,
+with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the sick
+pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy died
+during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start <i>necessary for
+next year</i>,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1,
+but on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of
+the past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only
+one comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates
+and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage dep&ocirc;t,
+which was at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge,
+in a S.S.E. direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky
+looked black and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes
+loomed out ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the
+strange optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew
+close to the dep&ocirc;t all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full
+of broken pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew
+to the ponies and dogs.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a
+working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in
+line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first
+thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling
+<a name="page_263"><span class="page">Page 263</span></a>
+back from Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran
+went to the dep&ocirc;t with a note as Oates and I disconsolately
+thought out the situation. I thought to myself that if either party
+had reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would
+immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By this
+time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour passed,
+and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that two specks
+in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered them
+to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him, because
+they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary Willy had
+upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming reports
+that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs began
+very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left Safety Camp
+with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge of the Barrier,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs were on ahead and we
+saw them turn and make right round Cape Armitage. "Uncle Bill"
+got done, and I took up the dog tracks which we followed over the
+tide crack and well on towards Cape Armitage.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after fresh
+crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching through
+for many feet on both
+<a name="page_264"><span class="page">Page 264</span></a>
+sides. We all thought it impossible to proceed and turned back....
+The ponies began to get very done, and Bowers decided to get back
+over the tide crack, find a snowy place, and camp.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed
+to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have been
+with the ponies.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers
+cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a long
+time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt very bad
+for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all his. Otherwise
+we had a good meal.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside
+down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers went
+out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened by a grinding
+sound, jumped up, and found the situation as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to
+thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think
+about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe, and
+"Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to us all
+and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks. We packed
+anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker. It seemed
+to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said so, but Bowers
+decided to try.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We decided that to go towards White Island
+<a name="page_265"><span class="page">Page 265</span></a>
+looked best, and for five hours traveled in the following way:&mdash;we
+jumped the ponies over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then
+man-hauled the sledges after them, then according to the size of the
+floe sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled
+the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I should
+think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the
+Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get
+up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere
+off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to try
+and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and leaping
+from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with the help of
+his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It was a desperate
+venture, but luckily successful.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing
+the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen
+rapidly making for the dep&ocirc;t from the west.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the situation
+he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares, and started
+with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of the mishap. A
+halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions and oil, and
+then, marching carefully round, they approached the ice-edge, and
+to their joy caught sight of Bowers and Cherry-Garrard. With the help
+<a name="page_266"><span class="page">Page 266</span></a>
+of the Alpine rope both the men were dragged to the surface, and
+after camp had been pitched at a safe distance from the edge all
+hands started upon salvage work. The ice at this time lay close and
+quiet against the Barrier edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and
+Cherry-Garrard had been hauled up, the sledges and their contents
+were safely on the Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were
+saved, the ice began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing
+could be done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon
+their floes.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were
+dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30
+yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast
+we discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor
+their floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It
+was a sad moment.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced
+that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed
+and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the
+poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life.
+Then there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge
+and discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable
+way to land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought,
+tried to leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually
+we had to kill him&mdash;it was awful. I recalled all hands and
+pointed out my
+<a name="page_267"><span class="page">Page 267</span></a>
+road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and worked
+their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with them on
+the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought we should
+get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump and plunged
+into the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice&mdash; killer
+whales all about us in an intense state of excitement. The poor
+animal couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to kill it.
+These incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday, March 2),
+we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to the one I
+had just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our sad journey
+to Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss of our ponies,
+but mercifully with all the party alive and well.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only
+three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this
+physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E. Evans
+and his party were safe; but while they were camping that night
+on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well, came
+in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut Point
+in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran, who were
+looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in trying to
+make two sleeping-bags do the work of three.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing
+and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep
+in the bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were
+cut off from
+<a name="page_268"><span class="page">Page 268</span></a>
+any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze over,
+and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up a
+small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire
+for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not
+much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also
+with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his
+sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party
+to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing
+in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we
+couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work.
+There were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in
+<i>Discovery</i> days, and with these we built up a small inner
+hut to live in.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on
+Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have
+all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James
+Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on the
+dep&ocirc;t journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition
+there was reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had
+not happened.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_269"><span class="page">Page 269</span></a>
+CHAPTER IV
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">A HAPPY FAMILY</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+By mutual confidence and mutual aid<br />
+Great deeds are done and great discoveries made.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;ANON.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the certainty of having to stay in the <i>Discovery</i> hut for
+some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable as
+possible. With packing-cases a large <i>L</i>-shaped inner apartment
+was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty kerosene
+tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent little stove
+which was connected to the old stove-pipe.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available,
+and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and Wilson
+found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out and was
+crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party as much
+meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary for our
+comfort and only need a little more experience to make the best of
+our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which everyone
+is learning the ropes, and the resource which
+<a name="page_270"><span class="page">Page 270</span></a>
+is being shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful
+suggestions and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower
+of strength in checking the ill-usage of clothes&mdash;what I have
+come to regard as the greatest danger with Englishmen.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased in
+force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which drove
+the <i>Discovery</i> ashore. The blizzard continued until noon
+on Tuesday, on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith
+Taylor, Wright, Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut after
+a successful trip.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two days later another dep&ocirc;t party started to Corner Camp,
+E. Evans, Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates,
+Cherry-Garrard and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting
+of Wright to join in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a
+splendid puller.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were constantly
+being increased, but continuous bad weather was both depressing
+to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort had been
+made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of wind made
+it impossible to give them shelter in all directions. At least
+five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen others were
+by no means strong, but whether because they were constitutionally
+harder or whether better fitted by nature to protect themselves
+the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit as they could be.
+As it was found to be impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in
+the traces, the majority
+<a name="page_271"><span class="page">Page 271</span></a>
+of them were allowed to run loose; for although Scott feared that
+this freedom would mean that there would be some fights to the
+death, he thought it preferable to the risk of losing the animals
+by keeping them on the leash. The main difficulty with them was
+that when the ice once got thoroughly into the coats their hind
+legs became half paralyzed with cold, but by allowing them to run
+loose it was hoped that they would be able to free themselves of
+this serious trouble. 'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind
+to us. This month will have sad memories. Still I suppose things
+might be worse; the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly
+well....'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The dep&ocirc;t party returned to the hut on March 23, but though
+the sea by this time showed symptoms of <i>wanting</i> to freeze,
+there was no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day.
+Stock therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements
+were made for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A week
+later the ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of Hut
+Point, but the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island still
+refused to freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began to think
+that they might not be able to get back to Cape Evans before May.
+Soon afterwards, however, the sea began to freeze over completely, and
+on Thursday evening, April 6, a program, subject to the continuance
+of good weather, was arranged for a shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels
+good,' Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to have something doing in the air.'
+But the weather prevented them from starting on the appointed day,
+and although
+<a name="page_272"><span class="page">Page 272</span></a>
+Scott was most anxious to get back and see that all was well at
+Cape Evans, the comfort achieved in the old hut was so great that
+he confessed himself half-sorry to leave it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around the
+fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter and
+a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. After
+lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt a long
+stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again
+with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival
+one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver....
+Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night&mdash;or
+nearly every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has
+proved a genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his
+reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber,
+suggesting that the latter could be freed from all rankness....
+The "fry" proved redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of
+that peculiar flavour which faintly lingers in the meat and should
+not be emphasized. Three heroes got through their pannikins, but
+the rest of us decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after
+tasting the first mouthful.[1]
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Wilson, referring to this incident in his Journal,
+showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over a fry I made in my new
+penguin lard. It was quite a success and tasted like very bad sardine
+oil.']
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking
+<a name="page_273"><span class="page">Page 273</span></a>
+and conversation&mdash;a cheering, pleasant hour&mdash;in which
+reminiscences are exchanged by a company which has very literally
+had world-wide experience. There is scarce a country under the sun
+which one or another of us has not traveled in, so diverse are
+our origins and occupations.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone
+can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a
+few would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which
+goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly
+healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke,
+appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the
+party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one
+tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another; Wilson
+being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde, Keohane,
+Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became
+evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending,
+and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs. Seven
+and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks, a very
+icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light became
+bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time. Half an
+hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to the ice
+cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock
+<a name="page_274"><span class="page">Page 274</span></a>
+and Erebus all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear
+track to the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there
+no low place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer
+drop), and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to
+drift off the ridge a quick decision had to be made.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to
+work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered.
+Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder
+of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and
+speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without serious
+frost-bites.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very
+heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A stiff
+incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was failing
+and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell in with
+considerable risk of damage. The north side, however, was well
+snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice cliff in which
+a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under the circumstances
+Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but darkness suddenly fell
+upon them, and after very heavy pulling for many hours they were
+so totally unable to see anything ahead, that at 10 P.M. they were
+compelled to pitch their camp under little Razor Back Island. During
+the night the wind began to rise, and in the morning a roaring
+blizzard was blowing, and obviously the ice on which they had pitched
+their camp was
+<a name="page_275"><span class="page">Page 275</span></a>
+none too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull, until at
+3 P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result
+that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under
+the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours,
+but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer
+from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied
+down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the
+wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening;
+we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only one
+more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to get than
+on the previous night, because they knew that they were no longer
+in danger of being swept out to sea.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning the
+party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen clothes
+were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only two miles,
+and after some very hard pulling they arrived off the point and
+found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It was a very great
+relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility
+of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that no
+heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; secondly,
+that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack which would
+damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well protected by
+the Barne Glacier; and, lastly,
+<a name="page_276"><span class="page">Page 276</span></a>
+that the beach itself showed no signs of having been swept by the
+sea. When, however, the hut had been erected and he found that its
+foundation was only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice,
+he could not rid himself entirely of misgivings.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not
+until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious
+he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been
+in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the
+ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself
+of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal
+swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the
+small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was
+mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen
+by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants
+(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton
+and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute
+the most important events of the quiet station life were told, the
+worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and one dog
+had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked admirably,
+and the scientific routine of observations was in full swing.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After their primitive life at the <i>Discovery</i> hut the interior
+space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort
+luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to enjoy
+the first bath for three months, and have contact with clean, dry
+<a name="page_277"><span class="page">Page 277</span></a>
+clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom soon banished
+their delight) are the treasured remembrance of every Polar traveler.'
+Not for many hours or even minutes, however, was Scott in the hut
+before he was taken round to see in detail the transformation that
+had taken place in his absence, and in which a very proper pride
+was taken by those who had created it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous
+shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, electric
+batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the tickings of many
+clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally the trembling note
+of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me days and even months
+to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific
+accuracy with which he was achieving them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection
+into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography had
+never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely without
+them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of negatives and
+prints can only be justified by the quality of the work produced in
+it, and is only justified in our case by such an artist as Ponting.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared,
+to their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing
+note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid
+tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements
+<a name="page_278"><span class="page">Page 278</span></a>
+of the hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried
+out with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next,
+and Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown
+by Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was
+called in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that
+he was capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases,
+I was less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had
+considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his attention
+to pots and pans.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals,
+and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that
+some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated
+fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the
+ten remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the
+furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it
+was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not
+only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been
+built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions,
+in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were
+almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that
+had assailed him on the homeward route.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the
+comforts of Cape Evans, as on
+<a name="page_279"><span class="page">Page 279</span></a>
+Monday, April 17, they were off again to Hut Point with two 10-foot
+sledges, a week's provisions of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal,
+&amp;c., for the hut. Scott, Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first
+sledge; Bowers, Nelson, Crean and Hooper the second; and after a
+rather adventurous journey, in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp
+work as of old,' they reached Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following
+day, and found everyone well and in good spirits. The party left at
+the hut were, however, very short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety,
+because until the sea froze over there was no possibility of getting
+the ponies back to Cape Evans. But three seals were reported on
+the Wednesday and promptly killed, and so Scott, satisfied that
+this stock was enough for twelve days, resolved to go back as soon
+as the weather would allow him.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with
+the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson,
+Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the
+homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott,
+Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates,
+Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the leaders,
+and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with the second
+sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean declared
+that although the loads were equal there was a great difference
+in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented when I
+voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party thought it the
+<a name="page_280"><span class="page">Page 280</span></a>
+plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like proof, and he
+readily assented to change sledges. The difference was really
+extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight compared with
+the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters regardless
+of how much we perspired.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked through,
+and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice fell upon
+the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief and showed
+the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold, however,
+was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish of rice
+and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was at an
+end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses they had
+sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson, Oates, Atkinson
+and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut since it had been
+fitted out, were astonished at its comfort.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point,
+the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun.
+Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Hooper,
+Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton, but in
+making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning that those
+who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead them in the
+spring.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally busy
+unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators. Wright
+began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates started to
+make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard employed himself
+<a name="page_281"><span class="page">Page 281</span></a>
+in building a stone house for taxidermy and with a view to getting
+hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during the winter, while Taylor
+and Debenham took advantage of the last of the light to examine
+the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans surveyed the Cape and
+its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in addition to their
+other work, spent hours over balloon experiments. In fact everyone
+was overflowing with energy.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back
+from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for
+good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice;
+and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of
+every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously,
+however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that could
+not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter steadily
+progressed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of the
+<i>South Polar Times</i> and the following notice was issued:
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+The first number of the <i>South Polar Times</i> will be published
+on Midwinter Day.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously,
+and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible.
+No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not
+intended that the paper shall be too scientific.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+<a name="page_282"><span class="page">Page 282</span></a>
+Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing.
+Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration
+are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The Editor,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>S. P. T.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required
+a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he
+would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were
+fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar
+literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of winter
+lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and in turn
+Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured on their
+special subjects. But still the <i>Discovery</i> hut party did not
+appear, although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over for
+nearly a week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that they would
+return. In the meantime there was work and to spare for everyone,
+and as the days went by Scott was also given ample opportunities
+to get a thorough knowledge of his companions.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so
+demonstrative of character as that which we had on these expeditions.
+One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under ordinary conditions
+it is so easy to carry a point with a little bounce; self-assertion
+is a mask which covers many a weakness....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_283"><span class="page">Page 283</span></a>
+Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that
+counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them. Pretence
+is useless.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and colour box, rapidly and steadily
+adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at intervals filling
+the gaps in his zoological work of <i>Discovery</i> times; withal
+ready and willing to give advice and assistance to others at all
+times; his sound judgment appreciated and therefore a constant
+referee.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers
+at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations
+are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his mind
+with the ice problems of this wonderful region...'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E.
+Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and
+conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly
+the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of gratitude.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working
+of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all
+arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly adjusted
+to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing the
+length of time which each of our possessions will last us and the
+assurance that there can be no waste.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_284"><span class="page">Page 284</span></a>
+Active mind and active body were never more happily blended. It
+is a restless activity admitting no idle moments and ever budding
+into new forms.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he
+is away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such
+a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out
+again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because for
+the moment there is no one else to care for these animals.... He
+is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any discomfort
+from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with equal profit.
+For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding food and
+clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an authority
+on past records. This will be no small help to me and one which
+others never could have given.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly
+pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world.
+The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are
+his field of labour.... His bench with its array of microscopes,
+etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater
+part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic
+enthusiasm....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet
+workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness
+to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places;
+sound all through and pretty hard also....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really
+<a name="page_285"><span class="page">Page 285</span></a>
+devoted to their care, and I believe will produce them in the best
+possible form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores,
+installing a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his
+satellite, Anton, is ever at work in the stables&mdash;an excellent
+little man.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt
+boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is
+no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline
+of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the
+problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on
+the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general
+agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed
+to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the
+problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any
+suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be a
+tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were returning,
+and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and reported that
+the ponies were not far behind. For more than three weeks the weather
+at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and fine, and with joy
+Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking remarkably well, and
+that the two ponies also seemed to have improved. 'It is a great
+comfort to have the men and dogs back, and a greater to
+<a name="page_286"><span class="page">Page 286</span></a>
+contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled for the winter.
+Everything seems to depend on these animals.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and games
+of football&mdash;when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers to
+get their toes frost-bitten&mdash;in the afternoons, the winter
+passed steadily on its way; the only stroke of misfortune being
+that one of the dogs died suddenly and that a post-mortem did not
+reveal any sufficient cause of death. This was the third animal
+that had died without apparent reason at winter-quarters, and Scott
+became more than ever convinced that to place any confidence in
+the dog teams would be a mistake.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans and
+Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted of
+a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels&mdash;
+and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions.
+The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity
+of provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the
+party discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday
+services had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were
+all that could be mustered.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig014.jpg" width="529" height="819"
+ alt="Figure 14">
+<br />"BIRDIE" BOWERS READING THE THERMOMETER ON THE RAMP,
+JUNE 6TH, 1911.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did
+not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top
+of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in
+chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_287"><span class="page">Page 287</span></a>
+A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat down
+with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this luxurious
+meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative. As I write
+there is a group in the dark room discussing political progress
+with large discussions, another at one corner of the dinner table
+airing its views on the origin of matter and the probability of its
+ultimate discovery, and yet another debating military problems....
+Perhaps these arguments are practically unprofitable, but they
+give a great deal of pleasure to the participants.... They are
+boys, all of them, but such excellent good-natured ones; there
+has been no sign of sharpness or anger, no jarring note, in all
+these wordy contests; all end with a laugh. Nelson has offered
+Taylor a pair of socks to teach him some geology! This lulls me
+to sleep!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying,
+and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he
+wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points
+were:
+</p>
+
+<ol style="text-align: justify; margin-right: 2em;">
+
+<li>Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to
+have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass
+at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it
+to obtain a true course from the compass....</li>
+
+<li>He ought to know what the true course is to reach one dep&ocirc;t
+from another.</li>
+
+<li>He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite.</li>
+
+<li>He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation.
+<a name="page_288"><span class="page">Page 288</span></a></li>
+
+<li>He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to
+work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.</li>
+
+<li>He should know how to read the sledgemeter.</li>
+
+<li>He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries
+and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time.</li>
+
+<li>He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of
+objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new
+peaks, &amp;c.</li>
+
+</ol>
+
+<p class="indent">
+That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears
+is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later. In
+it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious face
+to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For the
+moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I remembered
+that some months ago I said that it would be a good thing for all
+the officers going South to have some knowledge of navigation so
+that in emergency they would know how to steer a sledge home. It
+appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious and arduous
+course of abstruse navigational problems which he found exceedingly
+tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is not one chance
+in a hundred that he will ever have to consider navigation on our
+journey and in that one chance the problem must be of the simplest
+nature, but it makes it much easier for me to have men who
+<a name="page_289"><span class="page">Page 289</span></a>
+take the details of one's work so seriously and who strive so simply
+and honestly to make it successful.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working at
+latitude sights&mdash;mathematics which I hate&mdash;till bedtime.
+It will be wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge
+journey.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions
+to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome,
+a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began to
+prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to sweep
+the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men were out and
+about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the ponies, Demetri
+to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon the slumberers
+with announcements of the time, and presently Wilson and Bowers
+met in a state of nature beside a washing basin filled with snow
+and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this chilly substance.
+A little later others with less hardiness could be seen making the
+most of a meager allowance of water. A few laggards invariably
+ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and a little pressure had
+to be applied so that they should not delay the day's work.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table was
+cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed on a
+program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful half-hour
+was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if the
+<a name="page_290"><span class="page">Page 290</span></a>
+weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who were
+not employed in this way generally exercised themselves in some way
+or other. After this the officers went steadily on with their special
+work until 6.30, when dinner was served and finished within the
+hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and usually the gramophone,
+but three nights of the week were given up to lectures. At 11 P.M.
+the acetylene lights were put out, and those who wished to stay up
+had to depend on candle-light. The majority of candles, however,
+were extinguished by midnight, and the night watchman alone remained
+awake to keep his vigil by the light of an oil lamp.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday
+morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on.
+'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage
+of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly
+not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the
+twenty-four.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very
+hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and fears.
+'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than his sledge
+is reliable in action. I wish I could have more confidence in his
+preparations, as he is certainly a delightful companion.' Three
+days later Midwinter was celebrated with great festivities, and
+after lunch the Editor handed over the first number of the <i>S.
+P. T.</i> to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at the top of
+<a name="page_291"><span class="page">Page 291</span></a>
+the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a teacher' is
+the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read aloud most
+of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written by Taylor,
+some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's illustrations
+to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites; indeed the
+editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to Wilson, though
+Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin was also
+'a great help.' As all the contributions were anonymous great fun
+was provided by attempts to guess the various authors, and some
+of the denials made by the contributors were perhaps more modest
+than strictly truthful.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared
+with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the
+'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table,
+and at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the celebration
+as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in the plans of the
+expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that some of the company
+did not realize how rapidly the weeks were passing, and that in
+consequence work which ought to have been in full swing had barely
+been begun, he went on to say that it was time they knew how they
+stood in every respect, and especially thanked the officer in charge
+of the stores and those who looked after the
+<a name="page_292"><span class="page">Page 292</span></a>
+animals, for knowing the exact position as regards provision and
+transport. Then he said that in respect to the future chance must
+play a great part, but that experience showed him that no more
+fitting men could have been chosen to support him on the journey
+to the South than those who were to start in that direction in
+the following spring. Finally he thanked all of his companions
+for having put their shoulders to the wheel and given him so much
+confidence.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and afterwards
+everyone was called to speak in turn.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly,
+all had exceedingly kind things to say of me&mdash;in fact I was
+obliged to request the omissions of compliments at an early stage.
+Nevertheless it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition
+of my attitude towards the scientific workers of the expedition,
+and I felt very warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for
+expressing it. If good will and fellowship count towards success,
+very surely shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment,
+much applauded, that there had not been a single disagreement between
+any two members of our party from the beginning. By the end of
+dinner a very cheerful spirit prevailed.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged
+in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local
+negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and
+of those on board
+<a name="page_293"><span class="page">Page 293</span></a>
+the <i>Terra Nova</i> had been drunk, a set of lancers was formed.
+In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly appeared,
+followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas tree, the
+branches of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little
+presents for everyone; the distribution of which caused infinite
+amusement. Thus the high festival of Midwinter was celebrated in the
+most convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent of a Christmas
+spent in England was partly, at any rate, due to those kind people
+who had anticipated the celebration by providing presents and other
+tokens of their interest in the expedition.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an outburst
+in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated the birth
+of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered amongst the
+greatest in our lives.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_294"><span class="page">Page 294</span></a>
+CHAPTER V
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">WINTER</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Come what may<br />
+Time and the hour runs through the darkest day.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;SHAKESPEARE.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy
+in making preparations for their departure. The object of their
+journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness of an
+Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as could furnish
+a series of early embryos, by means of which alone the particular
+points of interest in the development of the bird could be worked
+out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at the coldest season
+of the year, this journey entailed the risk of sledge traveling in
+mid-winter, and the travelers had also to traverse about a hundred
+miles of the Barrier surface, and to cross a chaos of crevasses
+which had previously taken a party as much as two hours to cross
+by daylight.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig015.jpg" width="875" height="575"
+  alt="Figure 15">
+<br />PITCHING THE DOUBLE TENT ON THE SUMMIT.
+<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard
+were with the help of others making preparations, and apart from the
+<a name="page_295"><span class="page">Page 295</span></a>
+extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it was most
+interesting because the travelers were to make several experiments.
+Each man was to go on a different food scale, eiderdown sleeping-bags
+were to be carried inside the reindeer ones, and a new kind of
+crampon and a double tent were to be tried. 'I came across a hint
+as to the value of a double tent in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"'
+Scott wrote on June 20, 'and P.O. Evans has made a lining for one
+of the tents, it is secured on the inner side of the poles and
+provides an air space inside the tent. I think it is going to be
+a great success.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans
+were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following
+morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter travel
+is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone to attempt
+it. All good luck go with them!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work
+went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming incident
+until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew furiously,
+but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson and Gran,
+without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the floe for the
+North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This happened at
+5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not until later did
+Scott hear that he had only gone two or three hundred yards from
+the land, and that it had taken him nearly an hour to find his
+way back.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_296"><span class="page">Page 296</span></a>
+Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was
+nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until
+the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At
+9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for
+him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious
+accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once
+dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as
+the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased,
+as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off
+and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one
+conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be
+got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the
+scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence;
+and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter
+of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently,
+to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson,
+who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected
+after such an adventure, very confused.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have returned
+and all is well again, but we must have no more of these very
+unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize that this
+bit of experience has done more than all the talking I could have
+<a name="page_297"><span class="page">Page 297</span></a>
+ever accomplished to bring home to our people the dangers of a
+blizzard.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great
+danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not until
+he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was frost-bitten.
+Having waited there for some time he groped his way to the western
+end, and then wandering away in a swirl of drift to clear some
+irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely lost the island when he
+could only have been a few yards from it. In this predicament he clung
+to the old idea of walking up wind, and it must be considered wholly
+providential that on this course he next struck Tent Island. Round
+this island he walked under the impression that it was Inaccessible
+Island, and at last dug himself a shelter on its lee side. When
+the moon appeared he judged its bearing well, and as he traveled
+homeward was vastly surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island
+appear on his left. 'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man
+has not only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must
+struggle with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning
+power which is far more likely to undo him.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had
+ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week. The
+force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled earlier
+in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale was the
+long continuance of a very cold temperature. On
+<a name="page_298"><span class="page">Page 298</span></a>
+Friday night the thermometer registered -39&deg;, and throughout
+Saturday and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35&deg;.
+It was Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had
+to go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions
+for any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine
+snow beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath,
+and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger
+of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go
+to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while
+engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind
+with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his
+course.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5&deg; or +7&deg;, but the
+gale still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge,
+however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to
+Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing
+the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy of
+every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a rainy
+day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal material,
+leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered with the same
+spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares,
+while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects to bemoan imaginary
+shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee that we are prepared
+to face any serious call.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind
+<a name="page_299"><span class="page">Page 299</span></a>
+moderated, and the ponies were able to get a short walk over the
+floe, but this was only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon
+blowing as furiously as ever. And the following night brought not
+only a continuance of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day
+one of the best ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in
+spite of Oates' and Anton's most careful attention he soon became
+critically ill. Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second,
+and sacks were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour
+after hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on
+Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same
+tale from Oates and Crean,[1] who never left their patient. 'Towards
+midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so certain
+that we cannot afford to lose a single pony&mdash;the margin of
+safety has already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the
+circumstance that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly
+risk failure.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Bones was the pony which had been allotted to Crean.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement,
+and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and
+proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the
+return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for
+anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue
+to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered
+his sense of security, and although various alterations were made
+in the arrangements of the stables and extra
+<a name="page_300"><span class="page">Page 300</span></a>
+precautions were taken as regards food, he was never again without
+alarms for the safety of the precious ponies.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23,
+but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the
+atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no
+longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity
+of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never
+been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide
+us over all minor difficulties.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the Crozier
+Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they came back
+looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for five weeks
+the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were scarred and
+wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened and creased
+with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite obviously the
+main part of their afflictions arose from sheer lack of sleep,
+and after a night's rest they were very different people both in
+mind and body.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this
+morning very much his keen, wiry self&mdash;Bowers is quite himself
+to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still looks
+worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely&mdash;but
+Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers
+has come through best, all things
+<a name="page_301"><span class="page">Page 301</span></a>
+considered, and I believe that he is the hardest traveler that ever
+undertook a Polar journey, as well as one of the most undaunted;
+more by hint than direct statement I gather his value to the party,
+his untiring energy and the astonishing physique which enables him
+to continue to work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing
+to others. Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little
+man.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey from
+the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week the
+thermometer fell below -60&deg;, and on one night the minimum showed
+-71&deg;, and on the next -77&deg;. Although in this fearful cold
+the air was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind
+eddied across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized
+being has ever encountered such conditions before with only a tent
+of thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that Amundsen
+when journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures of a similar
+degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him an igloo shelter
+nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight, and finally he
+turned homeward and regained his ship after five days' absence,
+while this party went outward and were absent for five weeks.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region, and
+then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard
+followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better than complete
+darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found
+<a name="page_302"><span class="page">Page 302</span></a>
+themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track,
+sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice
+disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they
+ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge,
+and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the
+stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for
+the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object
+of their journey.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be
+made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing
+their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they
+failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started
+again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful
+ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock
+overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel
+hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that
+time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed.
+Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen
+at this rookery in <i>Discovery</i> days, they could only count
+about a hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that
+possibly the date was too early, and that if the birds had not
+permanently deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been
+seen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber
+for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved,
+made a hasty dash
+<a name="page_303"><span class="page">Page 303</span></a>
+for their camp, which by good luck they regained.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment
+increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they
+had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately
+chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected
+on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and
+rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned
+up, its disappearance being merely a question of time.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several
+valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and
+amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore
+it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof
+to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it secure,
+what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it disappeared,
+as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon the smother of
+snow swept over them, and all they could do was to dive immediately
+for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put out his head and said,
+'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones as he could manage, whereupon
+Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied, 'Yes, we're all right'; then
+all of them were silent for a night and half a day, while the wind
+howled and howled, and the snow entered every chink and crevice
+of their sleeping-bags.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we registered
+our maximum wind force, and
+<a name="page_304"><span class="page">Page 304</span></a>
+it seems probable that it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently
+than on us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched travelers
+then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth over their
+heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in forty-eight
+hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal under these
+extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans to build shelters
+on the homeward route. Every night, they decided, they must dig a
+large pit and cover it as best they could with their floorcloth.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile
+from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured.
+But on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard
+fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond
+description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact
+they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually
+broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been coated
+with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside vests at night
+they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed it is scarcely
+possible to realize the horrible discomforts of these three forlorn
+travelers, as they plodded back across the Barrier in a temperature
+constantly below -60&deg;.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig016.jpg" width="544" height="424"
+ alt="Figure 16">
+<br />AD&Eacute;LIE PENGUIN ON NEST.
+<br /><i>Photo by C. S. Wright.</i>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig017.jpg" width="549" height="416"
+ alt="Figure 17">
+<br />EMPEROR PENGUINS ON SEA-ICE.
+<br /><i>Photo by C. S. Wright.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of the
+penguins, but to me and to everyone
+<a name="page_305"><span class="page">Page 305</span></a>
+who has remained here the result of this effort is the appeal it
+makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant stories of Polar
+history. That men should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night
+to face the most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness
+is something new; that they should have persisted in this effort in
+spite of every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a
+tale for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall
+know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays
+its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information
+remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown the
+nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in winter.
+Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have proof,
+and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology of our
+Strait.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey
+Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary.
+Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing
+conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how
+he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to
+himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be
+unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and
+determination.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the
+knowledge of the winter conditions on
+<a name="page_306"><span class="page">Page 306</span></a>
+the Barrier that they had gained, their journey settled several
+points in connection with future sledding work. They had traveled
+on a very simple food ration in different and extreme proportions,
+for the only provisions they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit
+and tea. After a short experience they found that Wilson, who had
+arranged for the greatest quantity of fat, had too much of it,
+while Cherry-Garrard, who had declared for biscuit, had more than
+he could eat. Then a middle course was struck which gave a proportion
+agreeable to all of them, and which at the same time suited the
+total quantities of their various articles of food. The only change
+that was suggested was the addition of cocoa for the evening meal,
+because the travelers, thinking that tea robbed them of their slender
+chance of sleep, had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this
+way,' Scott decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable
+ration for the inland plateau.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the
+eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became
+iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers never
+used his eiderdown bag,[1] and in some miraculous manner he managed
+more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights of the
+sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea of the
+ice collected.
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: He insisted upon giving it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It
+was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully self-sacrificing of him, more
+than I can write. I felt a brute to take it, but I was getting
+useless unless I got some sleep, which my big bag would not allow.']
+</p>
+
+<table class="center">
+ <tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>Starting<br />Weight</td>
+  <td>Final<br />Weight
+<a name="page_307"><span class="page">Page 307</span></a>
+   </td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown.</td>
+  <td>17 lbs.</td><td>40 lbs.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Bowers, reindeer only.</td>
+  <td>17&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+  <td>33&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown.</td>
+  <td>18&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>
+  <td>45&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons
+were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older
+form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated in
+summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of clothes,
+mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the difficulties
+which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all Wilson can
+say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent, excellent." One
+continues to wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as made
+by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our
+more civilized garb. For us this can only be a matter of speculation,
+as it would have been quite impossible to have obtained such articles.
+With the exception of this radically different alternative, I feel
+sure we are as near perfection as experience can direct. At any
+rate we can now hold that our system of clothing has come through
+a severer test than any other, fur included.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed,
+and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the
+returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the
+spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became
+almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott
+<a name="page_308"><span class="page">Page 308</span></a>
+and the new masters were to take charge on September 1, so that
+they could exercise their respective animals and get to know them
+as well as possible. The new arrangement was:
+</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center">
+ <tr><td>Bowers</td><td>Victor</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Wilson</td><td>Nobby</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Atkinson</td><td>Jehu</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Wright</td><td>Chinaman</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Cherry-Garrard</td><td>Michael</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Evans (P.O.)</td><td>Snatcher</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Crean</td><td>Bones</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Keohane</td><td>Jimmy Pigg</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Oates</td><td>Christopher</td></tr>
+ <tr><td>Scott and Oates</td><td>Snippets</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse
+Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously
+discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also
+the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points all
+sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion was
+that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the grating or
+racquet principle, would probably be the best, the only alternative
+seeming to be to perfect the principle of the lawn mowing shoe.
+'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both kinds: the first for the
+quiet animals and the last for the more excitable. I am confident
+the matter is of first importance.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_309"><span class="page">Page 309</span></a>
+Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming
+a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite
+unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was, Christopher,
+Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high spirits that all
+three of them bolted on the 21st.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due,
+and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut.
+Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went
+outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes,
+because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously
+covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back
+into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there
+was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and
+for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental
+attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran
+uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that
+it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous
+existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea
+spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of
+buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and
+it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single
+lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of
+a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from
+the fate of the "one-horse shay."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_310"><span class="page">Page 310</span></a>
+Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once
+out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts
+and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on life
+of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have changed.
+For if there is little that is new to be said about the return
+of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real and
+important event to those who have lived without it for so many
+months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing
+in brilliant sunshine.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_311"><span class="page">Page 311</span></a>
+CHAPTER VI
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter,<br />
+the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that<br />
+human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of<br />
+any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is<br />
+simply the unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries a little<br />
+further from our little sphere of action.&mdash;HUXLEY.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign
+continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what
+seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went
+off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an
+early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to
+train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he chose
+to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to do, left
+him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding
+figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their
+organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little troubled
+by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that every arrangement
+had to be more than usually elastic, so that both the complete
+success and the utter failure of
+<a name="page_312"><span class="page">Page 312</span></a>
+the motors could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says,
+'that our plan will carry us through without the motors (though in
+that case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage
+of such help as the motors may give.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity
+the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the
+ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of
+these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde,
+however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with
+his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while Bowers,
+Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs' across
+the Western Mountains.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig018.jpg" width="904" height="270"
+ alt="Figure 18">
+<br />DOG PARTY STARTING FROM HUT POINT.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig019.jpg" width="912" height="275"
+ alt="Figure 19">
+<br />DOG LINES.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was
+occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey, every
+figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous help.'
+And later on, in speaking of the transport department, Scott says,
+'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the details of my
+plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers is the only
+man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the work without
+mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study was that Scott
+came to the conclusion that there would be no difficulty in getting
+to the Glacier if the motors were successful, and that even if
+the motors failed they still ought to get there with any ordinary
+degree of good fortune. To work three units of four men from that
+point onward
+<a name="page_313"><span class="page">Page 313</span></a>
+would, he admitted, take a large amount of provisions, but with the
+proper division he thought that they ought to attain their object.
+'I have tried,' he said, 'to take every reasonable possibility
+of misfortune into consideration;... I fear to be too sanguine,
+yet taking everything into consideration I feel that our chances
+ought to be good. The animals are in splendid form. Day by day the
+ponies get fitter as their exercise increases.... But we cannot
+spare any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of the
+disablement of one or more before their work is done.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were successful,
+Scott was very eager that they should be of some use so that all the
+time, money and thought which had been given to their construction
+should not be entirely wasted. But whatever the outcome of these
+motors, his belief in the possibility of motor traction for Polar
+work remained, though while it was in an untried and evolutionary
+state he was too cautious and wise a leader to place any definite
+reliance upon it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors,
+he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the
+Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit
+together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled under
+such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more especially
+to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a single detail
+of our equipment
+<a name="page_314"><span class="page">Page 314</span></a>
+which is not arranged with the utmost care and in accordance with
+the tests of experience.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for
+Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing up
+the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and preparing
+for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had determined
+to make a better show of photographic work than had yet been
+accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he was
+to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at hand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier
+and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous year,
+of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of practicing
+with their cameras, Scott and his party started off to the west on
+the 15th, without having decided precisely where they were going
+or how long they would stay away.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then
+they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral
+Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright
+across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the
+whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very
+cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled
+with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone
+who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went
+every few moments.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After plotting out the figures it turned out that the
+<a name="page_315"><span class="page">Page 315</span></a>
+movement varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation,
+and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers. Though a
+greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was small enough to
+show that the idea of comparative stagnation was correct. On the next
+day they came down the Glacier, and then went slowly up the coast,
+dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed the moraine, took angles
+and collected rock specimens. At Cape Bernacchi a quantity of pure
+quartz was found, and in it veins of copper ore&mdash;an interesting
+discovery, for it was the first find of minerals suggestive of
+the possibility of working.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance
+mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the
+land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it suddenly
+dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the land. Half
+recognizing familiar features they turned towards it, and as they
+got close they saw that it was very like their old Erebus Glacier
+Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and realized that it was
+the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue. Near the outer end
+they camped, and climbing on to it soon found the dep&ocirc;t of
+fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes planted to guide
+the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly anchored, was the piece
+broken from the Glacier Tongue in the previous March, a huge tract
+about two miles long which had turned through half a circle, so
+that the old western end was towards
+<a name="page_316"><span class="page">Page 316</span></a>
+the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass it is most
+astonishing that it should have remained intact throughout its
+sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the hut should be
+placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants
+would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south of Cape Evans
+is now 4&deg; miles W.N.W. of it.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig020.jpg" width="765" height="322"
+ alt="Figure 20">
+<br />PANORAMA AT CAPE EVANS.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig021.jpg" width="763" height="293"
+ alt="Figure 21">
+<br />BERG IN SOUTH BAY.
+<br /><i>Photo by F. Debenham.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th,
+just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along
+the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been
+more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they
+had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although
+an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled
+to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started
+again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time
+to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features
+could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of
+the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound
+in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M.,
+however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a
+wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy
+appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another
+snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss
+them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted
+out. Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard
+swept upon
+<a name="page_317"><span class="page">Page 317</span></a>
+them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly impossible
+to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage to set up
+the outer one. A few hours later the weather again cleared, and
+as they were more or less snowed up, they decided to push for Cape
+Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at 1.15 A.M., pretty
+well done. The wind never let up for an instant; the temperature
+remained about -16&deg;, and the 21 statute miles which we marched
+in the day must be remembered amongst the most strenuous in my
+memory.... The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily
+accomplished, but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realize
+that I have such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern
+journey. I do not think that harder men or better sledge travelers
+ever took the trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realize all that
+he must have done for the C. Crozier Party in their far severer
+experience.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans,
+everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during
+his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and
+found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to
+the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however,
+had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be
+incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements
+that had already been made for a geological party to go to the
+west would in all probability have to be altered.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_318"><span class="page">Page 318</span></a>
+All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy
+at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that
+Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having great
+trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being harnessed
+and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge. 'He is going,'
+Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony, wrote, 'to be a
+trial, but he is a good strong pony and should do yeoman service.
+Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an ingenious
+person and has been turning up new rollers out of a baulk of oak
+supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small motor as a lathe.
+The motors may save the situation.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became
+convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also
+no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and
+must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss
+we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face
+the bad as well as the good.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual
+exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean
+went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same
+afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line
+had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there had
+been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and found
+himself able to hold long
+<a name="page_319"><span class="page">Page 319</span></a>
+conversations with Meares and Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact,
+perhaps, but it seems wonderful in this primitive land to be talking
+to one's fellow beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies
+had arrived in fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying
+the heaviest load. If we can keep the telephone going it will be
+a great boon, especially to Meares later in the season.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of
+photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out
+to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries,
+however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which time
+Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from Nelson's
+igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt
+his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a sledge party, and
+fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able to join it. Scott himself
+at once hurried over the land, and found Ponting very distressed
+and Clissold practically insensible.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,'
+and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures.
+Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the
+latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,'
+and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve
+feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of the
+berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although neither
+Wilson nor Atkinson
+<a name="page_320"><span class="page">Page 320</span></a>
+thought that anything very serious had happened, there was no doubt
+that the accident would prevent him from taking the place allotted
+to him in the motor sledge party. Thus there were two men on the
+sick list, and after all the trouble that had been taken to get
+things ready for the summer journeys Scott naturally felt that
+these misfortunes were more than a little deplorable. On the other
+hand, all was going well with the ponies, though Christopher's
+dislike to sledges seemed rather to increase than to lessen. When
+once he was in the sledge he had always behaved himself until October
+13, when he gave a really great exhibition of perversity. On this
+occasion a dog frightened him, and having twisted the rope from
+Oates' hands he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he
+had obtained his freedom, he set about most systematically to get
+rid of his load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged
+two bales of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges
+a better idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them
+with the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell
+swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned
+his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short
+distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his antics
+had brought a small group to the scene, and presently Oates, Bowers,
+Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the sledge. Undaunted,
+however, by this human burden, he tried to treat it as he had the
+bales of hay, and he did manage to
+<a name="page_321"><span class="page">Page 321</span></a>
+dispose of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into
+the snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly
+glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These capers
+promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the Barrier may
+effectually cure them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe,
+but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum)
+splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed
+his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance, though
+at the same time retaining his opinion that with more experience
+they might have been of the greatest service. 'The trouble is that
+if they fail, no one will ever believe this.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans
+and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's
+time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing.
+'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always
+fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the
+finest character I ever met&mdash;the closer one gets to him the
+more there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable;
+cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter,
+one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal,
+and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and
+things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humour and really
+consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think
+<a name="page_322"><span class="page">Page 322</span></a>
+he is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive
+treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously energetic. He
+is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good
+deal&mdash;nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, and certainly
+no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little tales
+to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfishness, and his
+inextinguishable good humor. He surprises always, for his intelligence
+is of quite a high order and his memory for details most exceptional.
+You can imagine him, as he is, an indispensable assistant to me in
+every detail concerning the management and organization of our
+sledding work and a delightful companion on the march.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working,
+very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he
+has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't
+had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly
+as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he
+ever complained of anything in his life.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The Soldier is very popular with all&mdash;a delightfully humorous
+cheery old pessimist&mdash;striving with the ponies night and day
+and bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for helping
+others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind
+thing unobtrusively.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_323"><span class="page">Page 323</span></a>
+'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses
+of him in tight places.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice
+characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical ability,
+and I believe is about as good a man as could have been selected
+for his job.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others,
+though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round,
+they are a perfectly excellent lot.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges and
+sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility of resource
+which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as sound and hard as
+ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote. Crean is perfectly
+happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, the harder the work,
+the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. Lashly is his old
+self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, abstemious
+and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of people
+with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such
+a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most
+diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another,
+and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between
+acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jest....
+I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit
+here I am
+<a name="page_324"><span class="page">Page 324</span></a>
+very satisfied with these things. I think that it would have been
+difficult to better the organization of the party&mdash;every man
+has his work and is especially adapted for it; there is no gap
+and no overlap. It is all that I desired, and the same might well
+be said of the men selected to do the work....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets to
+the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel fast
+with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account I
+decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done
+had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan,
+besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you.
+Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you can
+rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish&mdash;only I'm
+afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture
+much belittled.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by the
+weather until October 22, but on that day the most important
+stores&mdash;which were for the returning dep&ocirc;ts and to provision
+the <i>Discovery</i> hut in case the <i>Terra Nova</i> did not
+arrive&mdash;were taken by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their
+ponies to Glacier Tongue. Accidents, however, were still to happen,
+for while Bowers was holding the ponies so
+<a name="page_325"><span class="page">Page 325</span></a>
+that Wilson and Evans could unload them, Victor got the hook, which
+fastened the harness to the trace of another pony, into his nose.
+At that moment a lot of drift swept upon them, and immediately
+all three of the ponies stampeded, Snatcher making for home and
+Nobby for the Western Mountains, while Victor, with Bowers still
+hanging on to him, just bolted here, there and everywhere. Wilson
+and P.O. Evans at once started after their ponies, and the former
+by means of a biscuit as a bait managed to catch Nobby west of Tent
+Island, but Snatcher arrived, with a single trace and dangling
+sledge, by himself at Cape Evans. Half an hour after Wilson had
+returned Bowers brought in Victor, who had a gash in his nose, and
+was very much distressed. 'I don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers
+managed to hang on to the frightened animal; I don't believe anyone
+else would have done so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet
+the animals appear they must not be left by their drivers&mdash;no
+chance must be taken; secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness
+must be altered in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were
+to be expected, one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous
+and expect them to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we
+are off and can know more definitely what resources we can count on.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two
+days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western
+Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident
+<a name="page_326"><span class="page">Page 326</span></a>
+being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery while
+Debenham's knee was given time to improve.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start,
+but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the next
+morning did they get away. At first there were frequent stops,
+but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as even a
+small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be enough to
+show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport, and so help
+to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition of animal
+transport, he was intensely anxious about the result of this trial
+trip. As this subject was one which was of the most supreme interest
+to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an expert upon these motor
+sledges. 'It has been said that Captain Scott's sledges failed, and
+without further consideration the design has been totally condemned,
+but this is quite unfair to the design; and it must be admitted by
+everyone who has had anything to do with the sledges, and has any
+sort of knowledge of mechanical principles, that it was <i>the
+engine</i> that failed, not the transmission gear at all. The engine
+used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one, and most unexpectedly in
+the cold climate of the Antarctic it over-heated and broke various
+parts, beyond possibility of repair under the severe conditions.
+The reason of the breakdown therefore applies to any and every
+form of motor sledge, and should a satisfactory engine be available
+for one form of sledge, it is equally
+<a name="page_327"><span class="page">Page 327</span></a>
+available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair judgment
+to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would have applied
+equally to every form of motor transport which could have been
+designed.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique
+experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott
+declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even
+the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly
+impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on
+like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party&mdash;which
+consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde&mdash;would have to
+leave after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should
+be wasting the season in this way. All things considered, I shall
+be glad to get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote
+on the 28th. And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are
+just off to Hut Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave
+in an hour or so as arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall
+all get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with
+the first chapter of our History. The future is in the lap of the
+gods; I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_328"><span class="page">Page 328</span></a>
+CHAPTER VII
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Free men freely work.<br />
+Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;E. B. BROWNING.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of
+missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape
+Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going away
+with high hopes of success and for the moment everything smiles, but
+where risks must be taken the result must be dependent on chance
+to some extent.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have
+lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all
+are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result,
+the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading
+Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the
+tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being
+allowed to start, although so little confidence was still
+<a name="page_329"><span class="page">Page 329</span></a>
+placed in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his
+own pace to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,'
+but the chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the
+persistently active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole
+way.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat
+disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good knowledge
+was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and the plan of
+advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start was to be
+made from Hut Point in three parties&mdash;the very slow ponies,
+the medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day, E. R. Evans,
+Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place) were already
+on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri, were to follow
+the main detachments.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was
+said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with
+Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and
+Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well together
+on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who reported that
+Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after Scott's party had
+camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri and a small dog team,
+and the cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard,
+which came along in fine form with Snatcher, 'a wonderful little
+beast,' leading. Christopher had given his customary exhibition when
+<a name="page_330"><span class="page">Page 330</span></a>
+harnessed, and although the Barrier surface had sobered him a little
+it was not thought advisable for him to stop, and so the party
+fled through in the wake of the advance guard, and were christened
+'the through train.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says, 'we
+packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like these
+midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is pleasant
+when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases its
+heat. The two parties in front of us camped five miles beyond Safety
+Camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an
+hour later. All the ponies are tethered in good order, but most
+of them are tired&mdash;Chinaman and Jehu <i>very tired</i>....
+A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motors
+passed at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong&mdash;they have from four to
+five days' lead and should surely keep it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next march they started in what for some time was to be
+the settled order&mdash;Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's
+at 10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting
+they picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both
+the motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80&deg; 30' Lat.' But
+very soon afterwards a dep&ocirc;t of petrol was found; and worse
+was to follow, as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across
+a tin bearing the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2
+cylinder broken.' Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking
+sledges, &amp;c.; and notes from E. Evans and Day to
+<a name="page_331"><span class="page">Page 331</span></a>
+tell the tale of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used
+for Lashly's machine, and as it would have taken a long time to
+strip Day's engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they
+had decided to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So
+the dream of help from the machines is at an end! The track of
+the remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I
+shall expect to see it every hour of the march.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a
+bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and not
+until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much confidence
+in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E. Evans saying
+that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day. 'They have taken
+on nine bags of forage, but there are three black dots to the south
+which we can only imagine are the deserted motor with its loaded
+sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting party, as directed.
+It is a disappointment. I had hoped better of the machines once
+they got away on the Barrier Surface.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged
+that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to be
+the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed. Another
+note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. The big
+end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine was in
+good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this misfortune,
+'the engines are not
+<a name="page_332"><span class="page">Page 332</span></a>
+fitted for working in this climate, a fact that should be certainly
+capable of correction. One thing is proved: the system of propulsion
+is altogether satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a
+man-hauling party as arranged.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls were
+at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was more
+than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with loads
+of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as fit as
+they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing of their
+loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs., sledge included.
+'We are all much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening
+up of ponies which have been well trained; even Oates is pleased!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done in
+the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their new rugs
+and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could scarcely feel
+the wind, and as this protection was a direct result of experience
+gained in the previous year, Scott was glad to feel that some good
+had been obtained from that disastrous journey. But when the snow
+began to fall the ponies as usual suffered, because it was impossible
+to devise any means of keeping them comfortable in thick and driving
+snow. 'We men are snug and comfortable enough, but it is very evil to
+lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping the strength
+of the beasts on which so
+<a name="page_333"><span class="page">Page 333</span></a>
+much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful on such
+occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon of the
+7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped about
+a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so soon
+Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety, but
+at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs would
+pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face such
+terrific winds.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and
+the question of starting was left open for a long time, several
+of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the
+decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after
+midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that
+his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman
+took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman
+even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In
+fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and this
+not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of the ponies
+halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but Christopher
+had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for his tricks
+and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to cling like
+grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had worn off,
+and this was a long rather than a light task, as even after ten
+miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got the smallest
+chance.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_334"><span class="page">Page 334</span></a>
+A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage
+and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs.
+Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and although
+the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it still remained
+a question how the ponies would get on under harder conditions,
+Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very encouraging. The
+cairns built in the previous year showed up very distinctly and
+were being picked up with the greatest ease, and this also was
+an additional cause for satisfaction because with pony walls, camp
+sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march seemed as if it
+must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott says, 'Everyone
+is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we camped this
+morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely and the
+sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. One
+devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the windy
+Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped, traveling
+easily.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next march they remained faithful to their program of advancing
+a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during the last
+two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together. 'It looked
+like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was Cherry-Garrard's
+account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's opinion it was
+clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment, because the
+slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace by joining
+<a name="page_335"><span class="page">Page 335</span></a>
+with the others, while the fast rearguard had their speed reduced.
+This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose attempt to bolt,
+though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling canter, was
+freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for a pony who
+at the start had been thought incapable of doing a single march.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in
+consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In arriving
+at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong head wind,
+and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading, found it
+so impossible to see where he was going that he decided to camp
+some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies continued
+to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed distance.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A worse surface was in store for them when they started from Camp
+7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst they
+had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained soft,
+and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft crust between
+a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between these the snow lay
+in sandy heaps, making altogether the most difficult conditions
+for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger ponies continued to pull
+excellently, and even the poor old crocks succeeded in covering
+9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes one anxious in spite of the
+rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these marches
+to be a little difficult, but not near so bad as to-day's.... In
+spite of the surface, the dogs ran up from the camp before last,
+<a name="page_336"><span class="page">Page 336</span></a>
+over 20 miles, in the night. They are working splendidly.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following
+day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon
+the last year's Bluff dep&ocirc;t. Here Scott found a note, from
+which he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must
+be the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson
+had a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought,
+only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic
+than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days;
+and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well,
+Jehu especially distinguishing himself.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13,
+'in a better position to know how we stand when we get to One Ton
+Camp, now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these
+beasts&mdash;very anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to
+have been, and if they pull through well, all the thanks will be due
+to Oates. I trust the weather and surface conditions will improve;
+both are rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within 7
+or 8 miles of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface
+and some sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although the
+ponies were working splendidly, it was painful work for them to
+struggle on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when harnessed
+were already a thing of the past&mdash;a fact which
+<a name="page_337"><span class="page">Page 337</span></a>
+would have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that
+his strength was also beginning to diminish.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed on
+to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest there,
+and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical miles (15
+statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will get through, but
+that they have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering
+his usually pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful
+view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I think that a good many
+of the beasts are actually in better form than when they started,
+and that there is no need to be alarmed about the remainder, always
+excepting the weak ones which we have always regarded with doubt.
+Well, we must wait and see how things go.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating that
+his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait for
+the main detachment at Lat. 80&deg; 30'. The minimum thermometer
+left there in the previous year showed -73&deg;, which was rather
+less than Scott had expected.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger
+ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over
+400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of
+them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion.
+By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans
+being victims, while Meares, when told
+<a name="page_338"><span class="page">Page 338</span></a>
+that his nose was 'gone,' remarked that he was tired of it and that
+it would thaw out by and by!
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on such
+a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on November
+18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The surface is,
+if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I should think
+about the sort of thing we shall have to expect henceforward....
+It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the Glacier; meanwhile
+we get along somehow.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of rather
+bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and Chinaman
+began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being re-christened
+'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' Again Scott
+began to take a hopeful view of getting through, unless the surfaces
+became infinitely worse.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and
+his party in Lat. 80&deg; 32', and heard that they had been waiting
+for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn.
+All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry&mdash;an
+informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was
+ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough
+for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision
+that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification,
+though even with the rations that were
+<a name="page_339"><span class="page">Page 339</span></a>
+to be taken he had no doubt that hunger would attack the party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party
+on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should
+return.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at
+Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier.
+'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were
+to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the usual
+march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies now quite
+steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor Party the
+procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go forward just
+ahead of the crocks, the other party following two or three hours
+later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the crocks must have
+been going very well. However, the fiat had already gone forth,
+and this morning (November 24) after the march poor old Jehu was
+led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his reaching
+Hut Point, it is wonderful to think that he has actually got eight
+marches beyond our last year limit, and could have gone more. However,
+towards the end he was pulling very little, and on the whole it is
+merciful to have ended his life. Chinaman seems to improve and
+will certainly last a good many days yet. I feel we ought to get
+through now. Day and Hooper leave us to-night.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_340"><span class="page">Page 340</span></a>
+Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much
+Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was at
+the loss of his pony.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged and
+started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and Lashly,
+went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then came Wright
+with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest following close
+behind them. But although the two crocks had not been given their
+usual start, they stuck to their work so gallantly that at the
+finish they were less than a quarter of a mile behind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At Camp 22, in Lat. 81&deg; 35' the Middle Barrier Dep&ocirc;t was
+made, and as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually
+getting back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their
+journey was struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At
+the start the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made
+such heavy weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This
+threw the ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six hours
+were spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first part of
+the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The advance
+party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in keeping a
+course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with a rise of
+temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At this time
+the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the man-haulers also
+found it impossible to steer. The march of 13 miles was eventually
+completed, but under
+<a name="page_341"><span class="page">Page 341</span></a>
+the most harassing circumstances and with very tired animals.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13
+(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can
+only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a
+glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired
+animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright
+now after the day's march.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the following
+day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them, the driving snow
+not only preventing them from seeing anything, but also hitting
+them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was shot on this night,
+but in struggling on until he was within go miles of the Glacier
+he had done more than was ever expected of him; and with only four
+bags of forage left the end of all the ponies was very near at
+hand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82&deg; 21', 'the most unexpected
+and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased,
+and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching
+the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close to
+them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the 29th,
+'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies are tired,
+but I believe all have five days' work left in them, and some a
+great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be employed, rested
+and fed well on the homeward track. We could really get through
+now with their
+<a name="page_342"><span class="page">Page 342</span></a>
+help and without much delay, yet every consideration makes it desirable
+to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly
+hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of things.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both of
+them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and if he
+stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott admitted,
+a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond of Snippets
+as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying when on the
+march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant weather with it,
+but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies, with the exception
+of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure. A recurrence of
+'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a report) was encountered,
+and the ponies very often sank nearly to their knees.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of extreme
+exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce that even Nobby
+had nearly reached the end of his life. On this night (December
+1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility could he be much
+regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at the outset,
+and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength had also
+disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,' Cherry-Garrard
+wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A dep&ocirc;t, called the Southern Barrier Dep&ocirc;t, was left
+at Camp 27, so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the
+other ponies. 'Three more marches
+<a name="page_343"><span class="page">Page 343</span></a>
+ought to carry us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams
+we <i>must</i> get through, I think. The men alone ought not to
+have heavy loads on the surface, which is extremely trying.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes, and
+for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but then
+the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless, in Scott's
+opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the thing for
+ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use them from the
+beginning their condition would have been very different from what
+it was.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From Camp 28, Lat. 83&deg;, Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad
+weather conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. last
+night meant mischief, and all day we marched in falling snow with
+a horrible light.... The ponies were sinking deep in a wretched
+surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission
+to watch the animals, but he much preferred to lead one, so I handed
+over Snippets very willingly and went on ski myself.' This he found
+such easy work, that he had time to take several photographs of
+the ponies as they plunged through the snow. But in the afternoon
+they found a better surface, and Scott, who was leading, had to
+travel at a very steady pace to keep the lead.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel,
+and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage becoming
+scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor&mdash;to the great sorrow of Bowers,
+<a name="page_344"><span class="page">Page 344</span></a>
+who was very fond of him&mdash;had to be shot. Six ponies remained,
+and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of the party
+reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could see their
+way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey remarked on
+December 15 that it was the first day for a month on which he could
+not record splendid weather. With Scott's party, however, a fine
+day had been the exception rather than the rule, and the journey
+had been one almost perpetual fight against bad weather and bad
+surfaces.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson,
+Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and Crean;
+(3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. 'We
+have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't
+thought of.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away
+at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather
+once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just a
+chance that they might be able to march, but while they were having
+breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest wind I
+have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony wall was
+blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts had collected.
+In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the pony walls, but
+the flanking wall was blown down three times before the job was
+completed. About mid-day the weather improved and soon afterwards
+the clouds broke and the land appeared; and when they got away at
+<a name="page_345"><span class="page">Page 345</span></a>
+2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But this pleasant state of
+affairs was only destined to last for one short hour; after that
+snow again began to fall, and marching conditions became supremely
+horrible. The wind increased from the S.E., changed to S. W., where
+for a time it remained, and then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and
+afterwards to N.N.W., from which direction it continued to blow
+with falling and drifting snow. But in spite of these rapid and
+absolutely bewildering changes of conditions they managed to get
+11-1/2 miles south and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however,
+camped after six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a
+course. 'We (Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting
+snow across our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi
+under them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The
+whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they
+continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly
+placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor&mdash;we have
+had all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly won
+under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the forage is
+lasting a little better than expected... we should have no difficulty
+whatever as regards transport if only the weather was kind.' On the
+following day the weather was still in a bad mood, for no sooner
+had they got on their gear for the start than a thick blizzard
+from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone started to build fresh
+walls for the ponies, an uninviting task enough in a regular white
+flowing blizzard, but one which added
+<a name="page_346"><span class="page">Page 346</span></a>
+greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and bored,
+but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the man-haulers
+came into camp, having been assisted in their course by the tracks
+that the other parties had made.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M. they
+were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their credit.
+During this march the land was quite clearly in view, and several
+uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The mountains
+were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent peaks, one
+or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare and almost
+perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded, boulder-strewn
+Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We should reach it
+easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can compass 12 miles....
+We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two wretched days, but the
+disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard
+to the Glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days.
+One has a horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However,
+sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically
+through with the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last
+Camp (29) towards the S.S.E., where the farthest land can be seen,
+it seemed more than probable that a very high latitude could be
+reached on the Barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has
+a stroke of luck, he may well find his summit journey reduced to
+100 miles or so. In any case it is a fascinating direction for
+next year's work, if only fresh transport arrives.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_347"><span class="page">Page 347</span></a>
+On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing
+the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had
+food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have
+gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael'
+had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having done
+so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was just like
+a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he has been a good
+friend and has a good record, 83&deg; 22' S. He was a bit done
+to-day, the blizzard had knocked him.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to find a
+raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had so constantly
+bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery snow which is usually
+an especial feature of a blizzard, but on this occasion they got
+enough and to spare of it. Anyone who went into the open for a
+minute or two was covered from head to foot, and as the temperature
+was high the snow stuck where it fell. The heads, tails and legs
+of the ponies were covered with ice, and they had to stand deep in
+snow. The sledges were almost covered, and there were huge drifts
+about the tent. It was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer
+than he could help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they
+retreated sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small
+satisfaction of being able to see from one tent to another was
+denied them, and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather
+could mean at this
+<a name="page_348"><span class="page">Page 348</span></a>
+time of year, stated emphatically that no party could possibly travel
+against such a wind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance
+which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, or
+are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? If the
+latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small party
+struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go smilingly
+forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of luck! No
+foresight&mdash;no procedure&mdash;could have prepared us for this
+state of affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or certain
+of our aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig022.jpg" width="492" height="383"
+ alt="Figure 22">
+<br />LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEP&Ocirc;T.
+<br /><i>Photo by R. F. Scott.</i>
+</div>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig023.jpg" width="496" height="403"
+ alt="Figure 23">
+<br />LOOKING SOUTH FROM LOWER GLACIER DEP&Ocirc;T.
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest that
+Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal. And
+to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained
+so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow,
+with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &amp;c.,
+were all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles
+and door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the
+situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough,
+however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth
+quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under
+which it was produced:
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+The snow is all melting and everything's afloat,<br />
+If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;upside down and use it as a boat.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next day Scott described as 'miserable,
+<a name="page_349"><span class="page">Page 349</span></a>
+utterly miserable. We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When
+within twelve miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel
+fortune to be held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature
+at noon had risen to 33&deg;, and everything was more soakingly wet
+than ever, if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly
+desolate, and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls,
+tents and sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of
+marching again were dashed on the following morning, when the storm
+continued and the situation became most serious; after this day only
+one small feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either
+to march or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not
+the most serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could
+without doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely
+was that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their
+summit rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take
+them on from the Glacier dep&ocirc;t had been begun.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its
+character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an
+end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move.
+Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an
+easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid,
+and so nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for bad
+weather was ample according to all experience, and this stormy
+December&mdash;our finest month&mdash;is a thing that the most cautious
+<a name="page_350"><span class="page">Page 350</span></a>
+organizer might not have been prepared to encounter.... There cannot
+be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break
+out again. In the brief spell of hope last night one heard laughter.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as every
+hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of their plans,
+no one can wonder that they chafed over this most exasperating
+delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have been melancholy
+enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls of their tents and to
+hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow and the ceaseless
+rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when the prospect of failure
+of their cherished plan was added to the acute discomforts of the
+situation, it is scarcely possible to imagine how totally miserable
+they must have been both in body and mind. Nevertheless in the
+midst of these distressing conditions Scott managed to write, 'But
+yet, after all, one can go on striving, endeavoring to find a
+stimulation in the difficulties that arise.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The
+snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying
+in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such
+circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents and dig
+out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to the smallest
+space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites being deep
+pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting of them at
+least made things more comfortable, and as the
+<a name="page_351"><span class="page">Page 351</span></a>
+wind dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed
+signs of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow
+was falling again, and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely
+desperate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during
+the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed
+to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees,
+and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances
+was anything but encouraging.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies finished,
+but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite of the surface,
+<i>if it comes to-morrow</i>. If it should not, we must kill the
+ponies to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men on ski and
+the dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on such a surface.
+I much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh! for fine weather,
+if only to the Glacier.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last began
+really to break. The temperature also helped matters by falling
+to +26&deg;, and in consequence the water nuisance began to abate;
+and at the prospect of action on the following morning cheerful
+sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies look
+wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they
+are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left
+in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all things
+<a name="page_352"><span class="page">Page 352</span></a>
+considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but nothing can
+recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned out two or
+three times to find the weather slowly improving, and at 8 o'clock
+on December 9 they started upon a most terrible march to Camp 31.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and
+the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could
+be led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to
+follow the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to
+seem as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers
+were pressed into the service to try and improve matters.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge and
+made a track&mdash;thus most painfully a mile or so was gained.
+Then when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans
+saved the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon
+Snatcher, who at once began to go on without much pressure, and
+was followed by the other ponies.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious miles
+they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added to the
+difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled on,
+and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending to
+the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was
+a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain
+rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott
+had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he
+<a name="page_353"><span class="page">Page 353</span></a>
+would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They
+came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was
+hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the pulling
+heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. Poor beasts!
+they have done wonderfully well considering the terrible circumstances
+under which they worked.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all
+my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow,
+and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food
+is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had all
+my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we camped
+I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses are now all
+done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although the
+ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance Scott had
+expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that distressing
+march, were relieved to know that the sufferings of their plucky
+animals had at last come to an end.
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_354"><span class="page">Page 354</span></a>
+CHAPTER VIII
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice<br />
+To be imprison'd in the viewless winds<br />
+And blown with restless violence round about.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;SHAKESPEARE.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized,
+and for some days advanced in the following order:
+</p>
+
+<table border="0" style="margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em;">
+ <tr><td valign="top">Sledge&nbsp;1.</td>
+  <td>Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">Sledge&nbsp;2.</td>
+  <td>E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.</td></tr>
+ <tr><td valign="top">Sledge&nbsp;3.</td>
+  <td>Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with Meares and
+   Demetri continuing to drive the dogs.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads
+could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success
+attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was
+delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they
+got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's
+party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised
+to find it running fairly easily
+<a name="page_355"><span class="page">Page 355</span></a>
+behind them. The first mile was gained in about half an hour, but
+then they began to rise, and soon afterwards with the slope becoming
+steeper and the surface getting worse they had to take off their
+ski. After this the pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for
+they sank above their finnesko, and in some places nearly up to
+their knees.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of ice
+from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges themselves
+sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they reached the
+top of the slope, and after tea started on the down grade. On this
+they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the upward slope, but
+they could just manage to get along on ski.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace set
+by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard some news
+that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote, 'that Atkinson
+says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly is not so fit as
+he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I have not
+felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march to-day
+showed clearly that something was wrong.... True, the surface was
+awful and growing worse every moment. It is a very serious business
+if the men are going to crack up. As for myself, I never felt fitter
+and my party can easily hold its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is
+a tower of strength, but Oates and Wilson are doing splendidly
+also.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched
+<a name="page_356"><span class="page">Page 356</span></a>
+the snow was appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks
+to the knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to
+support the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though
+under ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome,
+on this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow;
+and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half
+another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs, and
+in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each sledge-load.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before starting from Camp 32 they built a dep&ocirc;t (the Lower
+Glacier dep&ocirc;t), made it very conspicuous, and left a good
+deal of gear there. Then at the very beginning of their march they
+got into big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses.
+After four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and
+then they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a
+note from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might
+be, but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This
+is only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as
+well as of old.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether
+they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party went
+away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make fairly
+good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft patch
+which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the sledge
+and hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December 11, at
+Camp 33,
+<a name="page_357"><span class="page">Page 357</span></a>
+'to treat such occasions with patience.... The great thing is to
+keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were dozens
+of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a few when
+it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and tiring.
+But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed
+to the game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come
+up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a
+halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant;
+all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but unfortunately our
+history was not repeated with the other parties. Bowers came up
+half an hour after us. They also had done well at the last, and
+I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane is the only
+weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily blind. But
+Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite well, but
+got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by straining again
+and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from bad to worse. Their
+ski shoes, too, are out of trim.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth
+Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and then
+the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards still
+further to the west. In consequence they got a much better view
+of the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's party
+had obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously were
+observed. On the first stage of this march Scott's party was bogged
+time after time,
+<a name="page_358"><span class="page">Page 358</span></a>
+and do what they could their sledge dragged like a huge lump of
+lead. Evans' team had been sent off in advance and kept well ahead
+until lunch-time. Then, when Scott admits being 'pretty well cooked,'
+the secret of their trouble was disclosed in a thin film with some
+hard knots of ice on the runners of the sledge; these impediments
+having been removed they went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile
+or two resumed their leading position. As they advanced it became
+more and more evident that, with the whole of the lower valley
+filled with snow from the storm, they would have been bogged had
+they been without ski. 'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if
+pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee and thigh.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they rose,
+but on the next march the surface became worse instead of better,
+the sledges simply plunging into the soft places and stopping dead.
+So slow in fact was the progress they made, that on his sledge Scott
+decided at lunch to try the 10-foot runners under the cross-bars,
+for the sledge was sinking so deeply that the cross-pieces were
+on the surface and acting as brakes. Three hours were spent in
+securing the runners, and then Scott's party started and promptly
+saw what difficulties the other teams were having.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and
+his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them.
+But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining and
+a high temperature
+<a name="page_359"><span class="page">Page 359</span></a>
+had become very wet and sticky, and again and again the sledge got
+one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its side, and
+refused to move. At the top of the rise Evans' party was reduced
+to relay work, and shortly afterwards Bowers was compelled to adopt
+the same plan. 'We,' Scott says, 'got our whole load through till 7
+P.M., camping time, but only with repeated halts and labour which
+was altogether too strenuous. The other parties certainly cannot
+get a full load along on the surface, and I much doubt if we could
+continue to do so, but we must try again to-morrow. I suppose we
+have advanced a bare four miles to-day and the aspect of things
+is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500 feet.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35,
+and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much easier
+than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed without getting
+along so well, and so Scott, whose party were having no difficulty
+with their load, exchanged sledges with them, and a satisfactory
+morning's march was followed by still better work in the afternoon,
+eleven or twelve miles being gained. 'I think the soft snow trouble
+is at an end, and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of
+the present surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling
+our load with the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along
+and to find some adequate return for the work we are putting into
+the business.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had
+<a name="page_360"><span class="page">Page 360</span></a>
+reached a height of about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the
+surface steadily improved and the snow covering over the blue ice
+became thinner and thinner. During the afternoon they found that
+at last they could start their sledges by giving one good heave,
+and so, for the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they
+liked without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again
+set the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard n&eacute;v&eacute;
+were beginning to show through in places, and had not the day's
+work been interrupted by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would
+have been a really good one, but, as it was, eleven more miles
+had to be put to their credit. The weather looked, however, very
+threatening as they turned in for the night, and Scott expressed a
+fervent hope that they were not going to be afflicted by snowstorms
+as they approached the worst part of the glacier.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface difficult
+when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their work for over ten
+hours&mdash;'the limit of time to be squeezed into one day'&mdash;they
+covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect of the glacier.
+Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had to take them off
+in the afternoon because they struck such a peculiarly difficult
+surface that the sledges were constantly being brought up. Then on
+foot they made better progress, though no advance could be made
+without the most strenuous labour. The brittle crust would hold for
+a pace or two, and then let them down with a bump, while now and
+again a leg went down a crack in the hard ice underneath. So
+<a name="page_361"><span class="page">Page 361</span></a>
+far, since arriving among the disturbances, which increased rapidly
+towards the end of the march, they had not encountered any very
+alarming crevasses, though a large quantity of small ones could
+be seen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For
+once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof." Our
+luck may be on the turn&mdash;I think we deserve it. In spite of the
+hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed
+and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's;
+he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our
+last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very bad time....
+I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due
+to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the
+cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip
+up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on
+halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that is all we want, and
+we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We have worn our crampons
+all day (December 17) and are delighted with them. P.O. Evans, the
+inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased, and
+certainly we owe him much.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day
+and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was
+accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers could
+keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were crossing
+it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold. Still,
+however, they stuck most splendidly to their
+<a name="page_362"><span class="page">Page 362</span></a>
+task, and on the following day even a better march was made to Camp
+41.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross
+cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee
+and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface over
+which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was spent over
+the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs and sketches
+were taken, and continuing to make progress in the second part of
+the day's march they finished up with a gain of 17 miles. 'It has
+not been a strain except perhaps for me with my wounds received
+early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on the march, which
+has in consequence been very much pleasanter.... Days like this
+put heart in one.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the previous
+two days were put entirely into the shade by one of nearly 23 miles,
+during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the sledges in crampons
+was not at all difficult on the hard snow and on hard ice with
+patches of snow. At night they camped in Lat. 84&deg; 59' 6", and
+then Scott had to perform a task that he most cordially disliked. 'I
+have just told off the people to return to-morrow night: Atkinson,
+Wright, Cherry-Garrard and Keohane. All are disappointed&mdash;poor
+Wright rather bitterly, I fear. I dreaded this necessity of
+choosing&mdash;nothing could be more heartrending. I calculated our
+program to start from 85&deg; 10' with twelve units of food[1] and
+<a name="page_363"><span class="page">Page 363</span></a>
+eight men. We ought to be in this position to-morrow night, less
+one day's food. After all our harassing trouble one cannot but
+be satisfied with such a prospect.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: A unit of food means a week's supplies for four men.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident,
+was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were
+frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they
+were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their
+tents for nearly three hours.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken
+back by the returning party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85&deg; S. We are struggling on, considering
+all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, otherwise
+arrangements are working exactly as planned.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best
+of them.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through
+to the Pole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear,
+an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region.
+Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness
+this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I
+get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which
+step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one
+could only go on.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the valley
+out of the fog and away from
+<a name="page_364"><span class="page">Page 364</span></a>
+crevasses. So here we are practically on the summit and up to date
+in the provision line. We ought to get through.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst crevasses,
+and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The pull up
+the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until 7.30 P.M.
+they got off a good march and found a satisfactory place for their
+dep&ocirc;t. Fortunately the weather was both calm and bright, and
+all the various sorting arrangements that had to be made before
+the returning party left them were carried out under most favorable
+conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an immense relief to have
+the indefatigable little Bowers to see to all detail arrangements of
+this sort,' and on the following day he added, 'we said an affecting
+farewell to the returning party, who have taken things very well,
+dear good fellows as they are.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans;
+Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their heavy
+loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull them
+were soon removed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his
+diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and snowing
+when we started after making the dep&ocirc;t, and the last we saw of
+them as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just disappearing
+over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave ahead of them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_365"><span class="page">Page 365</span></a>
+Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and arrived
+at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for three months.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some
+time during their first march under the new conditions, but they
+managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter
+every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the requisite
+progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next morning they
+soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and pressure, that
+they were compelled to haul out to the north, and then to the west.
+One comfort was that all the time they were rising. 'It is rather
+trying having to march so far to the west, but if we keep rising
+we must come to the end of the disturbance some time.' During the
+second part of this march great changes of fortune awaited them. At
+first they started west up a slope, and on the top another pressure
+appeared on the left, but less lofty and more snow-covered than
+that which had troubled them in the morning. There was temptation
+to try this, but Scott resisted it and turned west up yet another
+slope, on the top of which they reached a most extraordinary surface.
+Narrow crevasses, that were quite invisible, ran in all directions.
+All of these crevasses were covered with a thin crust of hardened
+n&eacute;v&eacute; which had not a sign of a crack in it. One after
+another, and sometimes two at a time, they all fell in; and though
+they were getting fairly accustomed to unexpected falls through
+being unable to mark the run of
+<a name="page_366"><span class="page">Page 366</span></a>
+the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks were covered
+with soft snow, they had never expected to find a hardened crust
+formed over a crack, and such a surface was as puzzling as it was
+dangerous and troublesome.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow
+crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose
+crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a
+glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave place
+to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every direction.
+At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about 7,750 feet), 17
+miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling 'very cheerful
+about everything.' 'My determination,' he said, 'to keep mounting
+irrespective of course is fully justified, and I shall be indeed
+surprised if we have any further difficulties with crevasses or
+steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal seems really in
+sight.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single
+crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and Scott
+confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such disturbances.
+Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from crevasses&mdash;'very
+hard, smooth n&eacute;v&eacute; between high ridges at the edge of
+crevasses, and therefore very difficult to get foothold to pull
+the sledges.' To remedy matters they got out their ski sticks, but
+this did not prevent several of them from going half-down; while
+Lashly, disappearing completely, had to be pulled out by
+<a name="page_367"><span class="page">Page 367</span></a>
+means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet
+deep and 8 feet across, in form <b>U</b>, showing that the word
+"unfathomable" can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and as
+hard as nails. His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge a
+better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch&mdash;at which
+they had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins&mdash;was all the
+more enjoyable because 8 miles or so had already been gained.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land,
+but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end
+of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline
+down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped
+and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says,
+'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The
+first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored
+with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an
+arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding;
+then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and ginger.
+After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I couldn't
+finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept splendidly and
+feel thoroughly warm&mdash;such is the effect of full feeding.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night,
+was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15
+miles were covered
+<a name="page_368"><span class="page">Page 368</span></a>
+in the day and the 86th parallel was reached. Crevasses still appeared,
+and though they avoided them on this march, they were not so lucky
+during the next stage to Camp 49.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several
+reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer,
+and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids.
+Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi
+which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team
+that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they
+found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an
+hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled
+into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the
+party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot allow
+one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this afternoon,
+one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying and tiring.
+I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have not lost sight of
+the sun since we came on the summit; we should get an extraordinary
+record of sunshine. It is monotonous work this; the sledgemeter
+and theodolite govern the situation.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather'
+that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not
+improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team had
+<a name="page_369"><span class="page">Page 369</span></a>
+not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for P.O.
+Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time they
+discussed the difficulties that the second party was having, and
+several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the team
+was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad stepping
+and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's party's
+sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and
+his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon,
+and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in soft
+snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling the
+sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the cause of
+the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due to want
+of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure has been
+distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &amp;c. The party are
+not done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle with
+the trouble and get it right for themselves.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about
+9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which
+the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on
+two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises
+and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were
+responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was
+one satisfactory result of the
+<a name="page_370"><span class="page">Page 370</span></a>
+march, for now that the second party had seen to the loading of
+their sledge they had ceased to lag.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the
+conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52,
+on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a day,
+make a dep&ocirc;t and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party
+is certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage
+with the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly
+much worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10&deg;.) We have caught
+up Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could
+persuade myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and
+the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun
+by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work.
+Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party.
+To build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special
+record.'
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig024.jpg" width="773" height="496"
+ alt="Figure 24">
+<br />MAN HAULING CAMP, 87TH PARALLEL.<br /><i>Photo by Lieut.
+H. R. Bowers.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they hoped
+to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A dep&ocirc;t,
+called 'Three Degree Dep&ocirc;t,' consisting of a week's provision
+for both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning,
+with lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while
+Scott's team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate
+the New Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole,
+prospects
+<a name="page_371"><span class="page">Page 371</span></a>
+seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and on the next
+evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans, Lashly and Crean
+should go back after one more march.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take
+it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a
+five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food&mdash;practically
+over a month's allowance for five people&mdash;it ought to see us
+through....  Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow;
+if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically
+safe, I take it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January 3,
+in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87&deg; 32".' A last note from a hopeful
+position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine party
+going forward and arrangements are all going well.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next morning the returning men followed a little way until
+Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then farewells
+were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans, Crean and
+Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge is a mere
+nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a quick journey
+back,' and under average conditions they should easily have fulfilled
+anticipations. But a blizzard held them up for three days before
+they reached the head of the glacier, and by the time they reached
+the foot of it E. Evans had developed symptoms of scurvy. At One
+Ton Camp he was unable to stand without the support of his ski
+sticks, and
+<a name="page_372"><span class="page">Page 372</span></a>
+although, with the help of his companions, he struggled on for
+53 more miles in four days, he could go no farther. Rejecting his
+suggestion that he should be left alone while they pressed on for
+help, Crean and Lashly pulled him on the sledge with a devotion
+matching that of their captain years before, when he and Wilson had
+brought Shackleton, ill and helpless, safely to the <i>Discovery</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and then
+there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not travel.
+In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, 34 miles
+away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most certainly was
+the means of keeping him alive until help came. After a remarkable
+march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and as soon as possible
+Atkinson and Demetri started off with both dog teams to relieve
+Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by persistent bad weather,
+but on February 22 Evans was got back to the <i>Discovery</i> hut,
+where he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson; and subsequently
+he was sent by sledge to the <i>Terra Nova</i>. So ended the tale
+of the last supporting party, though, as a sequel, it is good to
+record that in reward for their gallant conduct both Lashly and
+Crean received the Albert Medal.
+</p>
+
+<h2>
+<a name="page_373"><span class="page">Page 373</span></a>
+CHAPTER IX
+</h2>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE SOUTH POLE</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As our sledge runners slid on the snow,<br />
+And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Struck mute like a silent blow<br />
+On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Shrank shivering over the floe.<br />
+And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Which was lost in a white fog-bow.
+</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>
+And this was the thought that the Silence wrought,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;As it scorched and froze us through,<br />
+For the secrets hidden are all forbidden<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Till God means man to know.<br />
+We might be the men God meant should know<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The heart of the Barrier snow,<br />
+In the heat of the sun, and the glow,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And the glare from the glistening floe,<br />
+As it scorched and froze us through and through<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;With the bite of the drifting snow.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by Wilson
+for the <i>South Polar Times</i>. Characteristically, he sent them
+in typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand and judge
+them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many of their readers
+confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's own premonition of
+the event. The version given is the final form, as it appeared
+in the <i>South Polar Times</i>.)
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the
+Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers
+28.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_374"><span class="page">Page 374</span></a>
+After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally
+anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed.
+At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything was
+most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon
+they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose
+sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they
+camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott
+began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely believe
+that obstacles will not present themselves to make our task more
+difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to trouble us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct, for
+a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a constant
+fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface was as bad as
+it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as they advanced,
+and late in the afternoon they encountered a very rough surface
+with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily the sledge showed no
+signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying to keep up a rate of
+a little over a mile and a quarter an hour was very great. However,
+they were cheered by the thought, when they reached Camp 58 (height
+10,320 feet), that they were very close to the 88th parallel, and
+a little more than 120 miles from the Pole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march on
+Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they advanced,
+and presently
+<a name="page_375"><span class="page">Page 375</span></a>
+they found themselves in the midst of a sea of fishhook waves,
+well remembered from their Northern experience. And, to add to
+their trouble, each sastrugus was covered with a beard of sharp
+branching crystals. They took off their ski and pulled on foot,
+but both morning and afternoon the work of getting the sledge along
+was tremendous. Writing at Camp 59, Latitude 88&deg; 7', Scott
+said, 'We think of leaving our ski here, mainly because of risk
+of breakage. Over the sastrugi it is all up and down hill, and
+the covering of ice crystals prevents the sledge from gliding even
+on the downgrade. The sastrugi, I fear, have come to stay, and
+we must be prepared for heavy marching, but in two days I hope
+to lighten loads with a dep&ocirc;t. We are south of Shackleton's
+last camp, so, I suppose, have made the most southerly camp.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that
+the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the
+sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched
+a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating
+the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion
+we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly.
+Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the
+sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched coating
+of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the shortest
+they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that if things
+remained for long they were, it would be impossible to keep up the
+<a name="page_376"><span class="page">Page 376</span></a>
+strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however, loads were to
+be lightened on the following day by a weight of about 100 lbs.,
+and there was also hope of a better surface if only the crystal
+deposit would either harden up or disappear. Their food, too, was
+proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on such an excellent ration.
+We really are an excellently found party.' Indeed, apart from the
+strain of pulling, Scott's only anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was
+that Evans had a nasty cut on his hand.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard;
+but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because
+he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance
+of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable bags
+within their double-walled tent would do none of them any harm. But,
+both on account of lost time and food and the slow accumulation
+of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting,
+'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office to
+the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to alleviate
+the small pains and troubles incidental to the work; now as cook,
+quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some fresh expedient
+to help the camp life; tough as steel on the traces, never wavering
+from start to finish.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It
+is only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes
+and crampons have been
+<a name="page_377"><span class="page">Page 377</span></a>
+absolutely indispensable, and if the original ideas were not his,
+the details of manufacture and design and the good workmanship
+are his alone. He is responsible for every sledge, every sledge
+fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and when one cannot recall
+a single expression of dissatisfaction with anyone of these items,
+it shows what an invaluable assistant he has been. Now, besides
+superintending the putting up of the tent, he thinks out and arranges
+the packing of the sledge; it is extraordinary how neatly and handily
+everything is stowed, and how much study has been given to preserving
+the suppleness and good running qualities of the machine. On the
+Barrier, before the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round,
+correcting faults of stowage.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Little Bowers remains a marvel&mdash;he is thoroughly enjoying
+himself. I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and
+at all times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning
+party should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute
+stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single
+mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the
+most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to this
+he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing comes
+amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty to get
+him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold, and he
+lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long after
+the others are asleep.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Of these three it is a matter for thought and
+<a name="page_378"><span class="page">Page 378</span></a>
+congratulation that each is specially suited for his own work,
+but would not be capable of doing that of the others as well as
+it is done. Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period
+with the ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole
+time, does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as
+well as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So
+our five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible
+to imagine.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp,
+the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface
+good. So that they might keep up the average length of their daily
+marches Scott wanted to leave a dep&ocirc;t, but as the blizzard
+tended to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident
+that to leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding.
+However, after a terribly hard march on the following morning,
+they decided to leave a dep&ocirc;t at the lunch camp, and there
+they built a cairn and left one week's food with as many articles
+of clothing as they could possibly spare.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface that
+was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow, and, when
+the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the slowest pace
+was distressingly difficult. On that night from Camp 62, Scott wrote,
+'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but it's going to be a stiff
+pull <i>both ways</i> apparently; still we do make progress, which
+is something.... It is very difficult to imagine what is
+<a name="page_379"><span class="page">Page 379</span></a>
+happening to the weather.... The clouds don't seem to come from
+anywhere, form and disperse without visible reason.... The
+meteorological conditions seem to point to an area of variable light
+winds, and that plot will thicken as we advance.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling
+was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad
+as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and
+the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they
+had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves,
+and although when they camped for the night they were only about
+74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could
+possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes it out
+of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work before....
+Our chance still holds good if we can put the work in, but it's a
+terribly trying time.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the
+almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily. The
+experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for Scott had
+begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly weakening,
+and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted a good surface
+to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were within 63 miles
+of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface to help them
+on their way.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do
+his work with characteristic
+<a name="page_380"><span class="page">Page 380</span></a>
+thoroughness and imperturbability; and after this appalling march
+he insisted, in spite of Scott's protest, on taking sights after
+they had camped&mdash;an all the more remarkable display of energy
+as he, being the only one of the party who pulled on foot, had
+spent an even more strenuous day than the others, who had been
+'comparatively restful on ski.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might
+to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and
+straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did
+manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which is
+very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski, though
+Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without tiring his
+short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at Camp 66 and
+less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the great difficulty
+on this march, because a light southerly wind with very low drift
+often prevented Scott from seeing anything, and Bowers, in Scott's
+shadow, gave directions. By this time the feet of the whole party
+were beginning, mainly owing to the bad condition of their finnesko,
+to suffer from the cold. 'Oates seems to be feeling the cold and
+fatigue more than the rest of us, but we are all very fit. It is
+a critical time, but we ought to pull through.... Oh! for a few
+fine days! So close it seems and only the weather to balk us.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they were
+all 'pretty well done' when
+<a name="page_381"><span class="page">Page 381</span></a>
+they camped for lunch. There they decided to leave their last
+dep&ocirc;t, but although their reduced load was now very light,
+Scott feared that the friction would not be greatly reduced. A
+pleasant surprise, however, was in store for him, as after lunch
+the sledge ran very lightly, and a capital march was made. 'It is
+wonderful,' he wrote on that night (January 15), 'to think that
+two long marches would land us at the Pole. We left our dep&ocirc;t
+to-day with nine days' provisions, so that it ought to be a certain
+thing now, and the only appalling possibility the sight of the
+Norwegian flag forestalling ours. Little Bowers continues his
+indefatigable efforts to get good sights, and it is wonderful how
+he works them up in his sleeping-bag in our congested tent. Only
+27 miles from the Pole. We <i>ought</i> to do it now.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their
+noon sight showed them in Lat. 89&deg; 42' S.; and feeling that
+the following day would see them at the Pole they started off after
+lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour
+or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn,
+but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a
+sastrugus.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we knew
+that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched on, found
+that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near by the remains
+of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and coming and the
+clear trace of dogs' paws&mdash;many dogs.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_382"><span class="page">Page 382</span></a>
+This told us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us
+and are first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and
+I am very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and
+much discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the
+Pole and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All
+the day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly
+also the Norwegians found an easy way up.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of this
+discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning (January
+17) head winds with a temperature of -22&deg; added to their depression
+of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian tracks, and
+in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then, as the tracks
+became increasingly drifted up and were obviously leading them
+too far to the west, they decided to make straight for the Pole
+according to their calculations. During the march they covered
+about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his journal, 'The Pole.
+Yes, but under very different circumstances from those expected.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent
+to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they
+found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the
+purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not
+claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in
+estimating the honours that belong to them.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig025.jpg" width="789" height="529"
+ alt="Figure 25">
+<br />THE PARTY AT THE SOUTH POLE.
+<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_383"><span class="page">Page 383</span></a>
+'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and
+the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home and
+a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following morning after summing up all their observations,
+they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the
+Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction, more
+or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two miles
+from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found a record
+of five Norwegians having been there:
+</p>
+
+<p class="bquote">
+'Roald Amundsen<br />
+&nbsp;Olav Olavson Bjaaland<br />
+&nbsp;Hilmer Hanssen<br />
+&nbsp;Sverre H. Hassel<br />
+&nbsp;Oscar Wisting.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&mdash;16 <i>Dec</i>. 1911.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'The tent is fine&mdash;a small compact affair supported by a single
+bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward a
+letter to King Haakon!'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags
+of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and
+sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian
+artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point thermometers,
+a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left a note to say I
+had visited the tent with companions. Bowers photographing and
+Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched 6.2 miles S.S.E.
+by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch gave us 1/2 to 3/4
+<a name="page_384"><span class="page">Page 384</span></a>
+of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch
+-21&deg;.) We built a cairn, put up our poor slighted Union Jack, and
+photographed ourselves&mdash;mighty cold work all of it&mdash;less
+than 1/2 a mile south we saw stuck up an old underrunner of a sledge.
+This we commandeered as a yard for a floorcloth sail. I imagine it
+was intended to mark the exact spot of the Pole as near as the
+Norwegians could fix it. (Height 9,500.) A note attached talked of
+the tent as being 2 miles from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note.
+There is no doubt that our predecessors have made thoroughly sure
+of their mark and fully carried out their program. I think the Pole
+is about 9,500 feet in height; this is remarkable, considering
+that in Lat. 88&deg; we were about 10,500.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and
+left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy
+the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on
+the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz.
+Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our
+ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging&mdash;and
+good-bye to most of the day-dreams!'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_385"><span class="page">Page 385</span></a>
+CHAPTER X
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+It matters not how strait the gate,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;How charged with punishments the scroll;<br />
+I am the master of my fate,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am the Captain of my soul.&mdash;HENLEY.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole 7
+miles behind them, and early in the march on the following morning
+picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn. These tracks
+they followed until they came to the black flag that had been the
+first means of telling them of the Norwegians' success. 'We have
+picked this flag up, using the staff for our sail, and are now
+camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our tracks. So that is
+the last of the Norwegians for the present.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals they
+marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found the cairns
+that they had built; but until they reached Three Degree Dep&ocirc;t
+which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott said, could not be
+laid to rest.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next day they reached their Southern
+<a name="page_386"><span class="page">Page 386</span></a>
+Dep&ocirc;t and picked up four days' food. With the wind behind
+them and with full sail they went along at a splendid rate in the
+afternoon, until they were pulled up by a surface on which drifting
+snow was lying in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the
+ski, pulling became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad
+when Bowers gets his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3,[1] 'I'm afraid
+he must find these long marches very trying with short legs, but
+he is an undefeated little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling
+the cold and fatigue more than most of us. It is blowing pretty
+hard to-night, but with a good march we have earned one good hoosh
+and are very comfortable in the tent. It is everything now to keep
+up a good marching pace; I trust we shall be able to do so and
+catch the ship. Total march, 18-1/2 miles.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: A number preceded by R. marks the camps on the return
+journey.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning,
+but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for
+a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand
+and 45 miles between them and their next dep&ocirc;t, where they
+had left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three
+Degree Dep&ocirc;t. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought
+to have a day or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty
+with following the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight
+for our watches to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks
+at a pinch.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+January 22 brought an added worry in the fact
+<a name="page_387"><span class="page">Page 387</span></a>
+that the ski boots were beginning to show signs of wear, but this
+was nothing compared with the anxiety Scott began to feel about
+Evans on the following day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a
+good deal run down&mdash;his fingers are badly blistered and his
+nose is rather seriously congested with frequent frost-bites. He
+is very much annoyed with himself, which is not a good sign. I
+think Wilson, Bowers and I are as fit as possible under the
+circumstances. Oates gets cold feet.... We are only about 13 miles
+from our "Degree and half" Dep&ocirc;t and should get there tomorrow.
+The weather seems to be breaking up. Pray God we have something
+of a track to follow to the Three Degree Dep&ocirc;t&mdash;once
+we pick that up we ought to be right.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so,
+though only seven miles from their dep&ocirc;t, they were obliged
+to camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect
+of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey
+in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from
+frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from
+bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach
+the Half Degree Dep&ocirc;t, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision
+to carry them the next 89 miles.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely
+wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile
+intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first
+far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of the
+second which was far on their
+<a name="page_388"><span class="page">Page 388</span></a>
+left. 'There is not a sign of our tracks between these cairns,
+but the last, marking our night camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in
+the belt of hard sastrugi, and I was comforted to see signs of the
+track reappearing as we camped. I hope to goodness we can follow
+it to-morrow.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these
+hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on ski,
+the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow the
+track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the best
+could only just be seen.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been
+compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the
+difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by
+hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and
+during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy
+and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march
+they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the
+air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose
+the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand,
+they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch,
+was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags,
+although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly
+but steadily getting wetter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles
+<a name="page_389"><span class="page">Page 389</span></a>
+from their dep&ocirc;t with six days food in hand, after doing a
+good march of 16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds
+we shall get our dep&ocirc;t without trouble. I shall indeed be
+glad to get it on the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is
+no doubt. The lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are
+pretty thin, especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked
+out. I doubt if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going
+with our light one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall
+be glad to open out on it.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding
+the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday their
+position had its serious as well as its bright side, for Wilson
+strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given pain
+all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of pluck
+over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident here. To add
+to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails to-night; his
+hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows signs of losing
+heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the accident.... We
+can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be] a mighty serious
+thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three
+Degree Dep&ocirc;t, and were able slightly to increase their rations,
+though not until they reached the pony food dep&ocirc;t could they
+look for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface, owing
+to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson
+<a name="page_390"><span class="page">Page 390</span></a>
+walking by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling
+was even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they
+picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The last
+thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we have
+only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn,
+which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper
+Glacier Dep&ocirc;t. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that
+they would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance
+was having a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was
+better. On the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable
+anxiety.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2 until
+Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same time on
+a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his shoulder.
+'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person added to
+our tent&mdash;three out of five injured, and the most troublesome
+surfaces to come. We shall be lucky if we get through without serious
+injury.... The extra food is certainly helping us, but we are getting
+pretty hungry.... It is time we were off the summit&mdash;Pray God
+another four days will see us pretty well clear of it. Our bags
+are getting very wet and we ought to have more sleep.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so
+of the Upper Glacier Dep&ocirc;t under Mount Darwin, and after
+exasperating delays in searching for
+<a name="page_391"><span class="page">Page 391</span></a>
+tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste no more time, but to
+push due north just as fast as they could. Evans' fingers were
+still very bad, and there was little hope that he would be able
+for some time to help properly with the work, and on the following
+day an accident that entailed the most serious consequences happened.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell into
+crevasses, Evans and I together&mdash;a second fall for Evans,[1]
+and I camped. After lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on
+ski over hard shiny descending surface. Did very well, especially
+towards end of march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not
+improving in condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather
+dull and incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal,
+but we get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of
+energy and bustle all the time.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans injured
+his brain by one of these falls.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made,
+but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them. Huge
+pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred their way,
+and so they had to steer more and more to the west on a very erratic
+course. Camping-time found them still in a very disturbed region,
+and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of their dep&ocirc;t
+there seemed to be no way through the disturbances that continued
+to block their path. On turning out to continue their march they
+went straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at once
+<a name="page_392"><span class="page">Page 392</span></a>
+found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these they turned
+northwards between two of them, with the result that they got into
+chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled to retrace
+their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the west they
+got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of which they
+camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended them in the
+afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated that they
+were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier Dep&ocirc;t.
+'Food is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that many hours
+of the day were anxious; but this evening (February 6), though we are
+not so far advanced as I expected, the outlook is much more promising.
+Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts and wounds suppurate, his
+nose looks very bad, and altogether he shows considerable signs
+of being played out. Things may mend for him on the Glacier, and
+his wounds get some respite under warmer conditions. I am indeed
+glad to think we shall so soon have done with plateau conditions.
+It took us 27 days to reach the Pole and 21 days back&mdash;in
+all 48 days&mdash;nearly 7 weeks in low temperature with almost
+incessant wind.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey, opened
+with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces covered
+with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress during
+the day, and between six and seven o'clock their dep&ocirc;t was
+sighted and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,'
+Scott wrote at R. 21,
+<a name="page_393"><span class="page">Page 393</span></a>
+'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp journey and most of
+us are fit, but I think another week might have had a very bad
+effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily downhill.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next morning they started late owing to various re-arrangements
+having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin to get specimens.
+As Wilson was still unable to use his ski, Bowers went on and got
+several specimens of much the same type&mdash;a close-grained granite
+rock which weathers red; and as soon as Bowers had rejoined the
+party they skidded downhill fairly fast, Scott and Bowers (the
+leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on foot alongside the sledge,
+while Evans was detached.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided
+to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some very
+irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down towards
+the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so interesting
+that, after an advance of some miles had brought escape from the
+wind, the decision was made to camp and spend the rest of the day
+in geologising.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under
+perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly and
+carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with his sharp
+eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last a piece of coal
+with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also some excellently
+preserved impressions of thick stems,
+<a name="page_394"><span class="page">Page 394</span></a>
+showing cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small
+waves in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone
+with archeo-cyathus&mdash;the trouble is one cannot imagine where
+the stone comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur
+in the moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether
+we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being
+out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I
+hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions
+are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of
+setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly
+7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a sea
+voyage.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine
+to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson
+had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone.
+The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the
+Beardmore Glacier, and the labour endured in dragging the additional
+35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay;
+but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it.
+The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous
+that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved
+to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to
+solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this
+portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult
+day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for
+<a name="page_395"><span class="page">Page 395</span></a>
+being too tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter
+had been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed.
+'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food satisfies
+now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and we want rest,
+yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are by no means worn
+out.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep
+that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great
+change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress,
+however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow,
+which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We
+have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening,
+'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within
+two outward marches from the middle glacier dep&ocirc;t. However,
+if the weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march
+blindly on or reduce food.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the
+surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until,
+with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found themselves
+in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to steer east, and
+after struggling on for several hours found themselves in a regular
+trap. Having for a short time in the earlier part of the day got
+on to a good surface, they thought that all was going well and
+did not reduce their lunch rations. But half an hour after lunch
+they suddenly got into a terrible ice mess.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_396"><span class="page">Page 396</span></a>
+For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that
+they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left;
+meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were moments
+when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the awful turmoil
+in which they found themselves. At length, arguing that there must
+be a way out on the left, they plunged in that direction, only
+to find that the surface was more icy and crevassed.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into crevasses
+every minute&mdash;most luckily no bad accident. At length we saw
+a smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but knew it was
+a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in character,
+irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, closely
+packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy work, but
+we had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and I write
+after 12 hours on the march. I <i>think</i> we are on or about the
+right track now, but we are still a good number of miles from the
+dep&ocirc;t, so we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican
+meals left and decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch
+must serve for two if we do not make big progress. It was a test
+of our endurance on the march and our fitness with small supper.
+We have come through well.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well
+in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two
+hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night
+<a name="page_397"><span class="page">Page 397</span></a>
+camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their dep&ocirc;t),
+for this showed them that they were still on the right track. In the
+afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently expecting
+to reach their dep&ocirc;t, but by a most unfortunate chance they
+kept too far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses and
+fissures. Afterwards their course became very erratic, and finally,
+at 9 P.M., they landed in the worst place of all.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a
+very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; the
+dep&ocirc;t doubtful in locality. We <i>must</i> get there to-morrow.
+Meanwhile we are cheerful with an effort.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept well
+in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by his visits
+outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over and snow beginning
+to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting up the weather was so
+thick that they had to remain in their sleeping-bags; but presently
+the weather cleared enough for Scott dimly to see the land of the
+Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after breakfasting off some tea
+and one biscuit, so that they might leave their scanty remaining
+meal for even greater emergencies, they started to march through
+an awful turmoil of broken ice. In about an hour, however, they
+hit upon an old moraine track where the surface was much smoother,
+though the fog that was still hanging over everything added to
+their difficulties.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_398"><span class="page">Page 398</span></a>
+Presently Evans raised their hopes with a shout of dep&ocirc;t ahead,
+but it proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson
+suddenly saw the actual dep&ocirc;t flag. 'It was an immense relief,
+and we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief
+to all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a meal.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and closed
+the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where Wilson
+detached himself and made a collection, while the others advanced
+with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February 13) at 'Camp
+R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped late, abreast the
+lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our usual satisfying
+supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of the trip and gave a
+horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are right, but we must march.
+In future food must be worked so that we do not run so short if the
+weather fails us. We mustn't get into a hole like this again....
+Bowers has had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, and Wilson
+another almost as bad. Evans has no power to assist with camping
+work.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days'
+food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Dep&ocirc;t.
+On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned about
+the condition of the party, and especially about Evans, who seemed
+to be going from bad to worse.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_399"><span class="page">Page 399</span></a>
+And on the next evening, after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't
+know our distance from the dep&ocirc;t, but imagine about 20 miles.
+We are pulling for food and not very strong evidently.... We have
+reduced food, also sleep; feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days
+or 2 at most will see us at dep&ocirc;t.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their dep&ocirc;t,
+and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety
+about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly
+broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from his
+normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he stopped
+the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold the events
+of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. Perhaps all
+will be well if we can get to our dep&ocirc;t to-morrow fairly early,
+but it is anxious work with the sick man.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a
+little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did,
+that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in
+his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had
+to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft
+snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners at
+every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the land
+hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up again,
+but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again on the
+same plea, and asked Bowers to lend
+<a name="page_400"><span class="page">Page 400</span></a>
+him a piece of string. Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly
+as he could, and he gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then
+the others were compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument
+Rock they halted and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to
+camp for lunch.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch
+and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and all
+four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to meet the
+poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and frost-bitten
+and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was the matter, he
+replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought that he must have
+fainted.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps
+he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse.
+Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while
+Oates remained with him.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we got
+him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.'
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+<a name="page_401"><span class="page">Page 401</span></a>
+CHAPTER XI
+</h3>
+
+<p class="subtitle">THE LAST MARCH</p>
+
+<table border="0" class="center"><tr><td>
+Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion<br />
+through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who,<br />
+over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed<br />
+difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction,<br />
+arrogance or dishonour to the victory proposed, or to the higher<br />
+glory of unshaken defeat.&mdash;R. KIPLING.
+</td></tr></table>
+
+<p class="indent">
+After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on
+later in the night, and arrived at their dep&ocirc;t; there they
+allowed themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles
+Camp, which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty
+of horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come
+if they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come
+with greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the
+Barrier surfaces.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had
+to be done in shifting sledges[1] and fitting up the new one with
+a mast, &amp;c., and in packing
+<a name="page_402"><span class="page">Page 402</span></a>
+horse meat and personal effects. Soon after noon, however, they
+got away, and found the surface every bit as bad as they expected.
+Moreover Scott's fears that there would not be much change during
+the next few days were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday
+afternoon they had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled
+desert sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following
+day, when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached
+Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony meat,
+but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,' Scott
+wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily followed
+this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope for better
+things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better traveling as
+we are not so fit as we were, and the season is advancing apace.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="footnote">
+[Footnote 1: Sledges were left at the chief dep&ocirc;ts to replace
+damaged ones.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and
+once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away from
+the land the conditions might get better; and that this improvement
+should come and come soon was all the more necessary because they
+were approaching a critical part of their journey, in which there
+were long distances between the cairns. 'If we can tide that over
+we get on the regular cairn route, and with luck should stick to
+it; but everything depends on the weather. We never won a march
+of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but we can't go on like
+this.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_403"><span class="page">Page 403</span></a>
+Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so completely
+wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow during the next
+stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time came without a
+sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later in the day Bowers,
+feeling sure that they were too far to the west, steered out, with
+the result that another pony camp was passed by unseen. 'There is
+little doubt we are in for a rotten critical time going home, and
+the lateness of the season may make it really serious.... Looking
+at the map to-night there is no doubt we are too far to the east.
+With clear weather we ought to be able to correct the mistake, but
+will the weather clear? It's a gloomy position, more especially as
+one sees the same difficulty recurring even when we have corrected
+this error. The wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in
+the south, which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note
+that such untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The hopes of better weather were realized during the following
+day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind.
+Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers took
+a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came to
+the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside the
+tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them were
+happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out. Then,
+just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully
+<a name="page_404"><span class="page">Page 404</span></a>
+sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite
+telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles
+of their dep&ocirc;t. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather,
+we cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved....
+Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of cairns,
+with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of Saturday,
+February 24, the dep&ocirc;t was reached, and there they found the
+store in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall have to be
+<i>very</i> saving with fuel.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in want
+of more oil than they found at the dep&ocirc;ts. Owing partly to
+the severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by their
+sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed for
+between the dep&ocirc;ts. The cold was unexpected, and at the same
+time the actual amount of oil found at the dep&ocirc;ts was less
+than Scott anticipated.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for the
+party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days on the
+outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree to
+Upper Glacier Dep&ocirc;t, took nearly eight marches as against ten,
+and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans and
+Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the Lower
+Glacier Dep&ocirc;t there was little gain on the outward journey,
+partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual collapse.
+And from that time onward the marches
+<a name="page_405"><span class="page">Page 405</span></a>
+of the weary but heroic travelers became shorter and shorter.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the dep&ocirc;ts
+had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. The oil
+in the warmth of the sun&mdash;for the tins were regularly set
+in an accessible place on the top of the cairns&mdash;tended to
+become vapour and to escape through the stoppers without damage
+to the tins. This process was much hastened owing to the leather
+washers about the stoppers having perished in the great cold.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The tins awaiting the Southern party at the dep&ocirc;ts had, of
+course, been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way
+back could take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were
+re-stoppered, they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation
+and leakage, and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the shortage
+which was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at the
+dep&ocirc;t, and with ten full days' provisions from the night of
+the 24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the Mid-Barrier
+dep&ocirc;t. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful tone, 'It
+is an immense relief to have picked up this dep&ocirc;t, and, for
+the time, anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night, after pulling
+on a dreadful surface and only gaining four miles, he added, 'It
+really will be a bad business if we are to have this plodding all
+through. I don't know what to think, but the rapid closing
+<a name="page_406"><span class="page">Page 406</span></a>
+of the season is ominous.... It is a race between the season and
+hard conditions and our fitness and good food.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the following
+day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The first double
+figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But what they wanted
+and what would not come was a wind to help them on their way.
+Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely needed was
+still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on their next march,
+and were within 43 miles of their next dep&ocirc;t. Writing from
+'R. 40. Temp. -21&deg;' on Monday night, February 26, Scott said,
+'Wonderfully fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing dries and we
+get our feet cold too often. We want more food yet, and especially
+more fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely hope to get a
+better surface at this season, but I wish we could have some help
+from the wind, though it might shake us up badly if the temp. didn't
+rise.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their dep&ocirc;t, but hunger
+was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else
+except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the
+dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety
+at next dep&ocirc;t, but there is a horrid element of doubt.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at R.
+42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a blightingly
+cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The temperatures,
+however,
+<a name="page_407"><span class="page">Page 407</span></a>
+which varied at this time between -30&deg; and -42&deg;, were chilling
+them through and through, and to get their foot-gear on in the
+mornings was both a painful and a long task. 'Frightfully cold
+starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time on Thursday, February 29,
+'luckily Bowers and Oates in their last new finnesko; keeping my
+old ones for the present.... Next camp is our dep&ocirc;t and it
+is exactly 13 miles. It ought not to take more than 1-1/2 days;
+we pray for another fine one. The oil will just about spin out
+in that event, and we arrive a clear day's food in hand.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On reaching the Middle Barrier Dep&ocirc;t, however, blow followed
+blow in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began
+to sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First they
+found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy it
+could scarcely carry them on to their next dep&ocirc;t, 71 miles
+away. Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently
+frost-bitten by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed.
+And lastly the wind, which at first they had greeted with some
+joy, brought dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the
+temperature fell to below -40&deg;, and on the next morning an
+hour and a half was spent before they could get on their foot-gear.
+'Then on an appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks,
+and at lunch Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer
+street since there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches and
+feel the cold horribly.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Afterwards they managed to pick up the track
+<a name="page_408"><span class="page">Page 408</span></a>
+again, and with a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects
+brightened a little; but on the next morning they had to labour
+upon a surface that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals,
+which were too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused
+impossible friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,'
+Scott wrote at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is
+certain. Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what
+each man feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear
+in the morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day
+more dangerous.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday, March
+4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except a strong
+drying wind, which at that time of the year was not likely to come.
+At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the next dep&ocirc;t and
+had a week's food; but in spite of the utmost economy their oil
+could only last three or four days, and to pull as they were doing
+and be short of food at the same time was an absolute impossibility.
+For the time being the temperature had risen to -20&deg;, but Scott
+was sure that this small improvement was only temporary and feared
+that Oates, at any rate, was in no state to weather more severe cold
+than they were enduring. And hanging over all the other misfortunes
+was the constant fear that if they did get to the next dep&ocirc;t
+they might find the same shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I
+should do if Wilson and Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful
+over things.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_409"><span class="page">Page 409</span></a>
+And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic
+to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed
+such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March 4)
+consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid with
+the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,' Scott
+says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable resolution
+it is contained in that short sentence. The result, however, was
+telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially upon Oates,
+whose feet were in a terrible condition when they started to march
+on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them within 27 miles of
+their next supply of food and fuel, but by this time poor Oates
+was almost done.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more
+hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none
+of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest
+of us Wilson is feeling them most; mainly, I fear, from his
+self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot help
+each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself. We get
+cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the wind pierces
+our worn garments. The others, all of them, are unendingly cheerful
+when in the tent. We mean to see the game through with a proper
+spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling harder than we ever pulled
+in our lives for long hours, and to feel that the progress is so
+slow. One can only say "God help us!" and plod on our weary way,
+cold and
+<a name="page_410"><span class="page">Page 410</span></a>
+very miserable, though outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts
+of subjects in the tent, not much of food now, since we decided
+to take the risk of running a full ration. We simply couldn't go
+hungry at this time.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and
+the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate work,
+were only three and a half, and the total distance for the day
+was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis was near
+at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only come up in
+spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent.... If we were all
+fit I should have hopes of getting through, but the poor Soldier
+has become a terrible hindrance, though he does his utmost and
+suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th, Scott added, 'A
+little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet <i>very</i> bad this morning;
+he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what we will do together
+at home.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At this time they were 16 miles from their dep&ocirc;t, and if they
+found the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the
+surface helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the
+Mt. Hooper Dep&ocirc;t, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp.
+'We hope against hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper; then
+we might pull through.... We are only kept going by good food.
+No wind this morning till a chill northerly air came ahead. Sun
+bright and cairns showing up well. I should like to keep the track
+to the end.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time
+<a name="page_411"><span class="page">Page 411</span></a>
+on the 8th to within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time
+spent over foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer.
+'Have to wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start
+changing, and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet
+giving trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help
+to others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the
+dep&ocirc;t? If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good
+distance, but if there is another short allowance of fuel, God
+help us indeed. We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper
+Dep&ocirc;t. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round.
+I don't know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have
+been our salvation have evidently failed.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting
+with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return to
+Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and calculating
+from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson expected him to
+reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There Cherry-Garrard
+met four days of blizzard, with the result that when the weather
+cleared he had little more than enough dog food to take the teams
+home. Under these circumstances only two possible courses were
+open to him, either to push south for one more march and back with
+imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to stay two days
+at the Camp where Scott was bound to come,
+<a name="page_412"><span class="page">Page 412</span></a>
+if he came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at
+One Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.]
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+With the dep&ocirc;t reached and no relief to the situation gained,
+Scott was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily downhill,'
+but for the time being Oates' condition was by far the most absorbing
+trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th. 'He has rare
+pluck and must know that he can never get through. He asked Wilson
+if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill had to say he
+didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart from him, if he
+went under now, I doubt whether we could get through. With great
+care we might have a dog's chance, but no more.... Poor chap! it
+is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot but try to cheer him up.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for
+half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face
+such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following
+morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast
+that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks. At
+the most they gained little more than six miles during the day,
+and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if they
+got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and should
+be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42, leaving
+us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get no worse.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or
+he will do, God only knows. We
+<a name="page_413"><span class="page">Page 413</span></a>
+discussed the matter after breakfast; he is a brave fine fellow
+and understands the situation, but he practically asked for advice.
+Nothing could be said but to urge him to march as long as he could.
+One satisfactory result to the discussion: I practically ordered
+Wilson to hand over the means of ending our troubles to us, so
+that any of us may know how to do so. Wilson had no choice between
+doing so and our ransacking the medicine case.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and
+more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them
+altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they
+started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through
+their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold,
+could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made
+camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly
+cold.... We <i>must</i> go on, but now the making of every camp
+must be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end,
+but a pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be
+like to-morrow.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once spared
+himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing could be
+more pathetic and significant than the fact that at last he was
+unable any longer to keep a daily record of this magnificent journey.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think
+the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most
+unendurable
+<a name="page_414"><span class="page">Page 414</span></a>
+conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable tribute to
+his dead companion.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday,
+poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should
+leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced
+him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful nature
+for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night he was
+worse and we knew the end had come.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last
+thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride
+in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold way
+in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. He has
+borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and to the
+very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. He did
+not&mdash;would not&mdash;give up hope till the very end. He was
+a brave soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before
+last, hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning&mdash;yesterday.
+It was blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and
+may be some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not
+seen him since.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick
+companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely
+out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder
+seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully removed
+him at this critical moment. He died
+<a name="page_415"><span class="page">Page 415</span></a>
+a natural death, and we did not leave him till two hours after his
+death.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though we
+tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man and
+an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a similar
+spirit, and assuredly the end is not far.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold is
+intense, -40&deg; at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful,
+but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we
+constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us
+believes it in his heart.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. Yesterday
+we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move dreadfully slowly.
+We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony marches from One Ton
+Dep&ocirc;t. We leave here our theodolite, a camera, and Oates'
+sleeping-bags. Diaries, etc., and geological specimens carried at
+Wilson's special request, will be found with us or on our sledge.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within
+21 miles of One Ton Dep&ocirc;t, but wind and drift came on and
+they had to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and
+we are worn out <i>nearly</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes&mdash;two days ago
+I was the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of
+my downfall. Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with
+my melted pemmican&mdash;it
+<a name="page_416"><span class="page">Page 416</span></a>
+gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake and in pain all night;
+woke and felt done on the march; foot went and I didn't know it. A
+very small measure of neglect and have a foot which is not pleasant
+to contemplate.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much to
+choose after all. The others are still confident of getting
+through&mdash;or pretend to be&mdash;I don't know! We have the last
+<i>half</i> fill of oil in our primus and a very small quantity
+of spirit&mdash;this alone between us and thirst.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but after
+a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin of cocoa,
+they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough to get some
+sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against
+persistent misfortune.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'<i>March</i> 19.&mdash;Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging
+manner. Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the dep&ocirc;t
+and ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two
+days' food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting
+bad&mdash;Wilson's best, my right foot worst, left all right. There
+is no chance to nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us.
+Amputation is the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble
+spread? That is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us
+a chance; the wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig026.jpg" width="538" height="810"
+ alt="Figure 26">
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_417"><span class="page">Page 417</span></a>
+During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton
+Dep&ocirc;t, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday
+a severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott wrote:
+'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to dep&ocirc;t for
+fuel.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23. Blizzard
+bad as ever&mdash;Wilson and Bowers unable to start&mdash;to-morrow
+last chance&mdash;no fuel and only one or two of food left&mdash;must
+be near the end. Have decided it shall be natural&mdash;we shall
+march for the dep&ocirc;t with or without our effects and die in
+our tracks.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'<i>March</i> 29.&mdash;Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale
+from W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece,
+and bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been
+ready to start for our dep&ocirc;t 11 <i>miles</i> away, but outside
+the door of the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do
+not think we can hope for any better things now. We shall stick
+it out to the end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the
+end cannot be far.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;'R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Last entry For God's sake look after our people.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_418"><span class="page">Page 418</span></a>
+After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on March
+16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson and
+Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When, however,
+this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to be done until
+the winter was over.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party devolved
+upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances showed qualities
+that are beyond all praise. At the earliest possible moment (October
+30) a large party started south. 'On the night of the 11th and
+morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says, 'after we had marched 11 miles
+due south of One Ton, we found the tent. It was an object partially
+snowed up and looking like a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks
+and in front of them a bamboo which probably was the mast of the
+sledge...
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson,
+and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it
+had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their
+sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally close
+them.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig027.jpg" width="492" height="695"
+ alt="Figure 27">
+<br />'THE LAST REST'.
+<br />The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr. Wilson,
+and Lieut. Bowers.
+<br /><i>Photo by Lieut. T. Gran.</i>
+</div>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag
+and opened his coat. The little wallet
+<a name="page_419"><span class="page">Page 419</span></a>
+containing the three notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm
+flung across Wilson.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological
+specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore
+Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the
+very end, though disaster stared them in the face.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the
+outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well
+into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed, and
+on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in the snow.
+Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was placed, containing
+a metal cylinder, and in this the following record was left:
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross
+and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O.,
+R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant H.
+R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine&mdash;a slight token to perpetuate
+their successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This they
+did on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition had already
+done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was the cause of their
+death. Also to commemorate their two gallant comrades, Captain L.
+E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons, who walked to his death
+in a blizzard to
+<a name="page_420"><span class="page">Page 420</span></a>
+save his comrades about eighteen miles south of this position;
+also of Seaman Edgar Evans, who died at the foot of the Beardmore
+Glacier.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away; blessed be the name of
+the Lord."'
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_421"><span class="page">Page 421</span></a>
+With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To Mrs. E. A. Wilson</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR MRS. WILSON,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together.
+We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid
+he was at the end&mdash;everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice
+himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him
+into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor
+discomforts.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is peaceful
+with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself as part
+of the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to comfort
+you than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, true
+man&mdash;the best of comrades and staunchest of friends.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My whole heart goes out to you in pity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Yours,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To Mrs. Bowers</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR MRS. BOWERS,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows
+of your life.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am
+finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of
+these is your son. He
+<a name="page_422"><span class="page">Page 422</span></a>
+had come be one of my closest and soundest friends, and I appreciate
+his wonderful upright nature, his ability and energy. As the troubles
+have thickened his dauntless spirit ever shone brighter and he has
+remained cheerful, hopeful, and indomitable to the end.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some reason
+why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My whole heart goes out in pity for you.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Yours,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what a
+happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look back
+on nothing but happiness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the
+end, believing in God's mercy to you.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To Sir J. M. Barrie</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR BARRIE,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter
+may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell.... More
+practically I want you to help my widow and my boy&mdash;your godson.
+We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold spirit,
+fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have accomplished
+our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have done everything
+<a name="page_423"><span class="page">Page 423</span></a>
+possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to save sick
+companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen of the
+future, and that the country ought to help those who are left behind
+to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson, Wilson leaves
+a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble circumstances. Do
+what you can to get their claims recognized. Goodbye. I am not
+at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many a humble pleasure
+which I had planned for the future on our long marches. I may not
+have proved a great explorer, but we have done the greatest march
+ever made and come very near to great success. Goodbye, my dear
+friend.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Yours ever,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long
+way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent,
+to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will
+do when we get to Hut Point.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>Later</i>.&mdash;We are very near the end, but have not and
+will not lose our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our
+tent and no where's food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves
+when things proved like this, but we have decided to die naturally
+in the track.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. Give
+the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought to have
+good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom I admired and
+<a name="page_424"><span class="page">Page 424</span></a>
+loved more than you, but I never could show you how much your friendship
+meant to me, for you had much to give and I nothing.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5&deg;.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR SIR EDGAR,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves
+the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and
+we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave
+behind.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your
+generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we stuck
+by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the end. I
+think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power to
+endure has not passed out of our race....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself
+again and again to the sick men of the party....
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some
+time after we are found next year.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it,
+but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is
+to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we
+have lacked support.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Yours ever sincerely,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_425"><span class="page">Page 425</span></a>
+<i>To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR SIR FRANCIS,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few letters
+which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank you for
+the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you how
+extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I want
+to tell you that I was <i>not</i> too old for this job. It was
+the younger men that went under first.... After all we are setting
+a good example to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight
+place, by facing it like men when we were there. We could have
+come through had we neglected the sick.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Yours ever,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Excuse writing&mdash;it is -40&deg;; and has been for nigh a month.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My DEAR SIR GEORGE,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I fear we have shot our bolt&mdash;but we have been to Pole and
+done the longest journey on record.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I hope these letters may find their destination some day.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness
+of different members of the party, but
+<a name="page_426"><span class="page">Page 426</span></a>
+the real thing that has stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected
+cold towards the end of the journey.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe
+as any experience we had on the summit.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my
+calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the
+base and petering out.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty
+is concerned.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your
+kindness.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<i>To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch.</i>
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+March 24th, 1912.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+MY DEAR KINSEY,
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I'm afraid we are pretty well done&mdash;four days of blizzard just
+as we were getting to the last dop&ocirc;t. My thoughts have been
+with you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition
+through, I'm sure.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can for
+them if the country won't.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know
+the circumstances well enough.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have little
+to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country need
+not be ashamed of us&mdash;our
+<a name="page_427"><span class="page">Page 427</span></a>
+journey has been the biggest on record, and nothing but the most
+exceptional hard luck at the end would have caused us to fail to
+return. We have been to the S. pole as we set out. God bless you
+and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is good to remember you and your kindness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Your friend,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William
+Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs.
+Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following extracts:
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow
+to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort
+in that I die at peace with the world and myself&mdash;not afraid.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks I
+have taken never seemed excessive.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a narrow
+margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a journey....
+After all, we have given our lives for our country&mdash;we have
+actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been the
+first Englishmen at the South Pole.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+You must understand that it is too cold to write much.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_428"><span class="page">Page 428</span></a>
+I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh from
+harness and full of good health and vigour. This is decided
+already&mdash;when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless
+we are within easy distance of another dep&ocirc;t. Therefore you
+must not imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course,
+and have been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and
+our appetites compensate for all discomfort.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our dep&ocirc;t,
+with one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got through
+but have been held for <i>four</i> days by a frightful storm. I think
+the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill ourselves,
+but to fight to the last for that dep&ocirc;t, but in the fighting
+there is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable must be
+faced. You urged me to be leader of this party, and I know you
+felt it would be dangerous.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is better
+than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know you will
+keep him in the open air.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence.
+Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous
+as you know&mdash;had always an inclination to be idle.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole in
+my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and other
+trifles. Send a small
+<a name="page_429"><span class="page">Page 429</span></a>
+piece of the Union Jack to the King and a small piece to Queen
+Alexandra.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much better
+has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. What tales
+you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his
+putting me in command of the <i>Discovery</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+<a name="page_430"><span class="page">Page 430</span></a>
+MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization, but
+to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken.
+</p>
+
+<ol>
+
+<li>The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start
+later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff
+transported to be narrowed.</li>
+
+<li>The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially
+the long gale in 83&deg; S., stopped us.</li>
+
+<li>The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace.</li>
+
+</ol>
+
+<p class="indent">
+We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but it
+cut into our provision reserve.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and dep&ocirc;ts made
+on the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles
+to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party
+would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus
+of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had
+least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man
+of the party.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on
+our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this with
+a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and Edgar
+Evans received a concussion of
+<a name="page_431"><span class="page">Page 431</span></a>
+the brain&mdash;he died a natural death, but left us a shaken party
+with the season unduly advanced.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise
+which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements
+for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world would
+have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we encountered
+at this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85&deg;, 86&deg;
+we had -20&deg;, -30&deg;. On the Barrier in lat. 82&deg;, 10,000
+feet lower, we had -30&deg; in the day, -47&deg; at night pretty
+regularly, with continuous head wind during our day marches. It
+is clear that these circumstances come on very suddenly, and our
+wreck is certainly due to this sudden advent of severe weather,
+which does not seem to have any satisfactory cause. I do not think
+human beings ever came through such a month as we have come through,
+and we should have got through in spite of the weather but for the
+sickening of a second companion, Captain Oates, and a shortage of
+fuel in our dep&ocirc;ts for which I cannot account, and finally,
+but for the storm which has fallen on us within 11 miles of the
+dep&ocirc;t at which we hoped to secure our final supplies. Surely
+misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last blow. We arrived
+within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel for one last meal
+and food for two days. For four days we have been unable to leave
+the tent&mdash;the gale howling about us. We are weak, writing is
+difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this journey,
+<a name="page_432"><span class="page">Page 432</span></a>
+which has shewn that Englishmen can endure hardships, help one
+another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the
+past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out
+against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but bow to
+the will of Providence, determined still to do our best to the last.
+But if we have been willing to give our lives to this enterprise,
+which is for the honour of our country, I appeal to our countrymen
+to see that those who depend on us are properly cared for.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood,
+endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the
+heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must
+tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours
+will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided
+for.
+</p>
+
+<p class="indent">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;R. SCOTT.
+</p>
+
+<div class="image">
+<img src="images/fig028.jpg" width="648" height="838"
+ alt="Figure 28">
+<br />British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart
+of main southern journey.
+</div>
+
+<h2><a name="index">INDEX</a></h2>
+
+<p class="index">Abbott, George P., P.O. <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ad&eacute;lie Land <a href="#page_35">35</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Admiralty, the, <a href="#page_8">8</a>,
+<a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_182">182-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Alaska <a href="#page_11">11</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Albemarle</i>, H.M.S.,
+<a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Albert Medal, the, <a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Alexandra, Queen, <a href="#page_31">31</a>,
+<a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Alpine Rope, <a href="#page_256">256-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>,
+<a href="#page_367">367</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Amphion</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_11">11</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Amundsen, Roald, <a href="#page_259">259-60</a>,
+<a href="#page_301">301</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>,
+<a href="#page_346">346</a>, <a href="#page_383">383</a>,
+<a href="#page_428">428</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Anton, Groom, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>,
+<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Archer, W. W., chief steward,
+<a href="#page_209">209</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Armitage, Lieut. A. B., <a href="#page_25">25</a>,
+<a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>,
+<a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>,
+<a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_153">153-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Arnold, M., <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>,
+<a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Arrival Bay, <a href="#page_60">60</a><br />
+Heights, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Athletic sports, <a href="#page_137">137-8</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>,
+<a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279-80</a>,
+<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_285">285-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_295">295</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_320">320-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>,
+<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>,
+<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_362">362-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>,
+<a href="#page_418">418-19</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Auckland Islands, <a href="#page_195">195</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Australia, Government of,
+<a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Balaclave helmets, <a href="#page_251">251</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J., <a href="#page_16">16</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Balleny, Capt. John, <a href="#page_197">197</a><br />
+Islands, <a href="#page_196">196-7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Balloons, ascents of, <a href="#page_57">57</a>,
+<a href="#page_281">281</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Barne, Lieut. Michael, <a href="#page_26">26</a>,
+<a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>,
+<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_80">80</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>,
+<a href="#page_98">98-9</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>,
+<a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>,
+<a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_131">131-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>,
+<a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a><br />
+Glacier, <a href="#page_275">275</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to,
+<a href="#page_422">422-4</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Barrier, Great Ice, <a href="#page_53">53</a>,
+<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224-5</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>,
+<a href="#page_260">260</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>,
+<a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_377">377</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bay of Whales, <a href="#page_259">259-60</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis,
+<a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Beppo, pony, <a href="#page_7">7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Berlin, <a href="#page_17">17</a>,
+<a href="#page_20">20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist,
+<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>,
+<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>,
+<a href="#page_85">85-6</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>,
+<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Birdie, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_126">126</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Birthday, celebrations of,
+<a href="#page_286">286-7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Biscay, Bay of, <a href="#page_32">32</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bismarck, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bjaaland, Olav Olavson, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Blanco, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Blissett, A. H., <a href="#page_132">132</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Blizzard, The</i>, <a href="#page_80">80</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Blossom, pony, <a href="#page_250">250</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Blucher, pony, <a href="#page_248">248</a>,
+<a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bluff, The, <a href="#page_130">130</a><br />
+Camp, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Boats, mishap to, <a href="#page_84">84</a>,
+<a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>,
+<a href="#page_140">140</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bones, pony, <a href="#page_299">299</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bonner, Charles, <a href="#page_38">38-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Borchgrevink, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Boss, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bowers, Lieut. H. R., <a href="#page_28">28</a>,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_230">230-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_234">234-236</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>,
+<a href="#page_250">250-4</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_278">278-81</a>,
+<a href="#page_283">283-4</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>,
+<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_293">293-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-8</a>,
+<a href="#page_311">311-14</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>,
+<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>,
+<a href="#page_322">322</a>, <a href="#page_324">324-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_334">334</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>,
+<a href="#page_357">357-8</a>, <a href="#page_359">359</a>,
+<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>,
+<a href="#page_371">371</a>,
+<a href="#page_373">373</a> <i>seq.</i></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bowers, Mrs., letter to,
+<a href="#page_421">421-2</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to,
+<a href="#page_425">425</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Britannia, The</i>, <a href="#page_6">6</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">British Museum, the, <a href="#page_19">19</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Brownie, dog, <a href="#page_100">100</a>,
+<a href="#page_108">108-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Browning, E. B., <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_328">328</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Browning, Frank V., P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bruce, Canon Lloyd, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bruce, Kathleen, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Buckingham Palace Road, <a href="#page_15">15</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Bulwark</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Burlington House, <a href="#page_19">19</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Butter Point, <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A.,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_216">216</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_229">229</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a>,
+<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>,
+<a href="#page_240">240-1</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>,
+<a href="#page_259">259-60</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>,
+<a href="#page_315">315</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cape Adare, <a href="#page_42">42</a>,
+<a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_45">45</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a><br />
+Armitage, <a href="#page_59">59</a>,
+<a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a>,
+<a href="#page_263">263</a><br />
+Bernacchi, <a href="#page_315">315</a><br />
+Bird, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br />
+Crozier, <a href="#page_52">52</a>,
+<a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>,
+<a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a>,
+<a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141-2</a>, <a href="#page_155">155-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_222">222-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_281">281</a><br />
+Crozier Party, <a href="#page_294">294</a>,
+<a href="#page_300">300-7</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a><br />
+Evans, <a href="#page_225">225</a>,
+<a href="#page_234">234-5</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,
+<a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>,
+<a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_271">271-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>,
+<a href="#page_316">316-17</a>, <a href="#page_321">321</a>,
+<a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_365">365</a><br />
+Jones, <a href="#page_48">48</a><br />
+Mackay, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br />
+North, <a href="#page_146">146</a>,
+<a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>,
+<a href="#page_198">198</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br />
+of Good Hope, <a href="#page_32">32-3</a><br />
+Royds, <a href="#page_180">180</a>,
+<a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a><br />
+Sibbald, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br />
+Wadworth, <a href="#page_47">47</a><br />
+Washington, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cardiff, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a
+href="#page_211">211</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Castle Rock, <a href="#page_60">60</a>,
+<a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>,
+<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain,
+<a href="#page_209">209</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_251">251-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_254">254-6</a>, <a href="#page_257">257-8</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261-6</a>, <a href="#page_270">270-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279-81</a>,
+<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>,
+<a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_300">300-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>,
+<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_347">347</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>,
+<a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>,
+<a href="#page_411">411-12</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Chinaman, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_329">329-30</a>,
+<a href="#page_332">332-3</a>, <a href="#page_336">336</a>,
+<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_340">340-41</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Christiania, <a href="#page_89">89</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Christopher, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_320">320</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>,
+<a href="#page_336">336</a>, <a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Clarke, Charles, ship's cook,
+<a href="#page_179">179</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Clissold, Thomas, cook, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>,
+<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a>,
+<a href="#page_319">319</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Coal, <a href="#page_46">46</a>,
+<a href="#page_189">189</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>,
+<a href="#page_216">216</a>, <a href="#page_218">218-19</a>,
+<a href="#page_220">220</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Colbeck, Captain William,
+<a href="#page_141">141-2</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>,
+<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_182">182-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_185">185</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>,
+<a href="#page_198">198</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Coleridge, <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_211">211</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Colville, Rear-Admiral, <a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Commonwealth Range, <a href="#page_357">357</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cook, Capt. James, <a href="#page_31">31</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Corner Camp, <a href="#page_247">247</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Coulman Islands, <a href="#page_46">46</a>,
+<a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Crater Heights, <a href="#page_60">60</a>,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a><br />
+Hill, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>,
+<a href="#page_88">88</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Crean, Thomas, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>,
+<a href="#page_259">259</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_262">262-5</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_278">278-80</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>,
+<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>,
+<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_370">370-2</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cross, Jacob, P.O., <a href="#page_48">48</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_155">155-6</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">'Cruise of the <i>Beagle</i>,'
+<a href="#page_162">162</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cuts, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Dailey, F. E., carpenter, <a href="#page_59">59</a>,
+<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Darwin, Charles, <a href="#page_162">162</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Day, Bernard C., motor engineer,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_227">227</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_276">276-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_290">290-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_323">323</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_330">330-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_339">339</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Debenham, Frank, geologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_281">281-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325-6</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer,
+<a href="#page_138">138</a><br />
+Islets, <a href="#page_178">178</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Demetri, dog driver, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_278">278-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_356">356</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>,
+<a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dennistoun, James R., <a href="#page_209">209</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dep&ocirc;t Nunatak, <a href="#page_171">171</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Desolation Camp, <i>Discovery</i> Expedition,
+<a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a><br />
+Last Expedition, <a href="#page_402">402</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dickason, Harry, A.B., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Discovery</i>, the fifth,
+<a href="#page_21">21</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dog food, <a href="#page_109">109</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dogs, <a href="#page_59">59</a>,
+<a href="#page_71">71-2</a>, <a href="#page_95">95-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_107">107</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_212">212-13</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,
+<a href="#page_241">241</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>
+<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_411">411</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Douglas, Sir Archibald, <a href="#page_18">18</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster,
+<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Dundee, <a href="#page_19">19</a>,
+<a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a><br />
+Shipbuilding Company, <a href="#page_17">17</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">East India Docks, <a href="#page_20">20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Edward VII, King, <a href="#page_31">31</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B.,
+<a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>,
+<a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_425">425-6</a> (letter
+to)</p>
+
+<p class="index">Enderby Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Entertainments, <a href="#page_85">85</a>,
+<a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Erebus Tongue, <a href="#page_315">315</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Esquimault. B.C., <a href="#page_11">11</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Esquimaux, <a href="#page_301">301</a>,
+<a href="#page_307">307</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R., <a href="#page_208">208</a>,
+<a href="#page_215">215</a>, <a href="#page_223">223-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_232">232</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242-3</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>,
+<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a>,
+<a href="#page_311">311</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>,
+<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_330">330-1</a>,
+<a href="#page_337">337-40</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_357">357-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_363">363</a>,
+<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_368">368</a>,
+<a href="#page_370">370-2</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Evans, P.O., <a href="#page_63">63</a>,
+<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_67">67-8</a>,
+<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_178">178-9</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_285">285-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_311">311-12</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>,
+<a href="#page_323">323-4</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_337">337</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>,
+<a href="#page_369">369</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Falkland Islands, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Feather, Thomas A., boatswain,
+<a href="#page_100">100-1</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_161">161</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>,
+<a href="#page_164">164-5</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Fefer, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ferrar, Hartley T., <a href="#page_27">27</a>,
+<a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>,
+<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>,
+<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a><br />
+Glacier, <a href="#page_152">152-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_154">154</a>, <a href="#page_158">158-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_314">314</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Finance Committee, <a href="#page_17">17-18</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Fire, alarm of, <a href="#page_32">32</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Fisher, Admiral Sir John, <a href="#page_10">10</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Fitzclarence, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Football, <a href="#page_286">286</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Forde, Robert, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>,
+<a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>,
+<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Fram</i>, the, <a href="#page_20">20</a>,
+<a href="#page_21">21</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Franklin Island, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Franz-Josef Land, <a href="#page_25">25</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Gap, the, <a href="#page_60">60</a>,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Gateway, the, <a href="#page_352">352</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Geological specimens, <a href="#page_393">393-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_398">398</a>, <a href="#page_419">419</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Gerof, Demetri. <i>See</i> Demetri</p>
+
+<p class="index">Glacier, the Beardmore, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_341">341</a>,
+<a href="#page_345">345</a>, <a href="#page_346">346</a>,
+<a href="#page_349">349</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_392">392</a>,
+<a href="#page_394">394</a>, <a href="#page_419">419-20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Glacier Dep&ocirc;t, <a href="#page_349">349</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352</a><br />
+Tongue, <a href="#page_225">225</a>,
+<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-41</a>,
+<a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>,
+<a href="#page_315">315-16</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Gran Tryggve, ski expert, <a href="#page_208">208</a>,
+<a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a>,
+<a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>,
+<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_295">295-6</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_317">317</a>,
+<a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Granite Harbor, <a href="#page_50">50</a>,
+<a href="#page_51">51</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Grannie, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Gus, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a>,
+<a href="#page_125">125</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Haakon, King, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hackenschmidt, pony, <a href="#page_276">276</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Half-Degree Dep&ocirc;t, <a
+href="#page_387">387</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hamilton, B. T., <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hampton Court Palace, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Handsley. Jesse, A.B., <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_164">164-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_178">178-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hanson, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hanssen, Hilmer, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hare, <a href="#page_63">63</a>,
+<a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_68">68-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hassel, Sverre H., <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Heald, William L., A.B., <a href="#page_62">62</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_210">210</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Henley, W. E., <i>quoted</i>, <a
+href="#page_385">385</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">'Hints to Travelers', <a href="#page_159">159-60</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hobart Town, <a href="#page_182">182</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hockey, <a href="#page_149">149</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hodgson, Thomas V., <a href="#page_25">25</a>,
+<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>,
+<a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hooper, F. J., steward, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>,
+<a href="#page_339">339-40</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hoskins, Sir Anthony, <a href="#page_18">18</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hut, the <i>Discovery</i>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>,
+<a href="#page_85">85-86</a>, <a href="#page_87">87</a>,
+<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,
+<a href="#page_269">269</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_372">372</a><br />
+at Cape Evans, <a href="#page_227">227</a>,
+<a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_275">275</a> <i>seq.</i><br />
+Point, <a href="#page_60">60</a>,
+<a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>,
+<a href="#page_190">190-1</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_242">242-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_260">260-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>,
+<a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_311">311</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>,
+<a href="#page_327">327-9</a>, <a href="#page_372">372</a>,
+<a href="#page_411">411</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hutton Rocks, <a href="#page_273">273</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Huxley, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_311">311</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Icebergs, <a href="#page_44">44</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Inaccessible Island, <a href="#page_297">297</a>,
+<a href="#page_316">316</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition,
+<a href="#page_25">25</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Jehu, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_328">328-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_330">330</a>, <a href="#page_332">332-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_338">338-9</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Jim, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_125">125-6</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Joe, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Kennar, Thomas, P.O., <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_159">159</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Keohane, Patrick, P.O., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>,
+<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_320">320</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_348">348</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354</a>, <a href="#page_357">357</a>,
+<a href="#page_362">362</a>, <a href="#page_418">418</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Kid, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_125">125</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">King Edward's Island, <a href="#page_56">56</a>,
+<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Kinsey, J. J., letter to,
+<a href="#page_426">426-7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Kipling, Rudyard, <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_401">401</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist,
+<a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_27">27</a>,
+<a href="#page_61">61</a>, <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>,
+<a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Lantaret, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lashly, William, leading stoker,
+<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a>,
+<a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>,
+<a href="#page_165">165</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>,
+<a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a>,
+<a href="#page_278">278-9</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>,
+<a href="#page_323">323</a>, <a href="#page_331">331</a>,
+<a href="#page_340">340</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_366">366-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_369">369</a>, <a href="#page_371">371-2</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lectures, <a href="#page_282">282</a>,
+<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>,
+<a href="#page_307">307-8</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Levick, G. Murray, surgeon, R.N.,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lewis, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_126">126</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lillehammer, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lillie, Denis G., biologist, <a
+href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">London Docks, <a href="#page_31">31</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lower Glacier Dep&ocirc;t, <a href="#page_356">356</a>,
+<a href="#page_398">398</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Lyttelton, <a href="#page_37">37-8</a>,
+<a href="#page_211">211-12</a><br />
+Heads, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Macartney, Sir William Ellison,
+<a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Mackay, Captain Harry, <a href="#page_182">182</a>,
+<a href="#page_190">190</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Macquarie Island, <a href="#page_36">36</a>,
+<a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Magnetic huts, <a href="#page_75">75</a><br />
+Observatory, <a href="#page_23">23</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Magnetism, <a href="#page_75">75</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Majestic</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_15">15</a>,
+<a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>,
+<a href="#page_27">27</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Markham, Sir Clements, <a href="#page_15">15</a>,
+<a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>,
+<a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a>,
+<a href="#page_203">203</a> <i>seq.</i> (preface),
+<a href="#page_429">429</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Markham, Lady, <a href="#page_20">20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">McMurdo Sound, <a href="#page_51">51</a>,
+<a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>,
+<a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>,
+<a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>,
+<a href="#page_260">260</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>,
+<a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_232">232-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a>,
+<a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_242">242-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_246">246-8</a>, <a href="#page_251">251-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_254">254-8</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>,
+<a href="#page_267">267</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a>,
+<a href="#page_299">299</a>, <a href="#page_311">311-12</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>,
+<a href="#page_337">337</a>, <a href="#page_354">354</a>,
+<a href="#page_356">356</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Merchant Shipping Act, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Meridians, <a href="#page_217">217</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Message to the public,
+<a href="#page_430">430-2</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Meteorological observations, <a href="#page_74">74</a>,
+<a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_83">83</a>,
+<a href="#page_84">84</a><br />
+screens, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Michael, pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_347">347</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Middle Barrier Dep&ocirc;t,
+<a href="#page_340">340</a>, <a href="#page_405">405</a>,
+<a href="#page_407">407</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Midwinter celebrations,
+<a href="#page_290">290-3</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Milton, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_254">254</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Monument Rock, <a href="#page_400">400</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Morning</i>, the, <a href="#page_43">43</a>,
+<a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>,
+<a href="#page_141">141-6</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Motor sledges, <a href="#page_212">212</a>,
+<a href="#page_226">226-30</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>,
+<a href="#page_312">312-13</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329-30</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Mount Buckley, <a href="#page_393">393-4</a><br />
+Cloudmaker, <a href="#page_357">357-98</a><br />
+Darwin, <a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a>,
+<a href="#page_391">391</a>, <a href="#page_393">393</a><br />
+Discovery, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br />
+Erebus, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>,
+<a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br />
+Hooper Dep&ocirc;t, <a href="#page_410">410</a>,
+<a href="#page_411">411</a><br />
+Hope, <a href="#page_346">346</a><br />
+Longstaff, <a href="#page_122">122</a><br />
+Markham, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br />
+Melbourne, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br />
+Monteagle, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br />
+Murchison, <a href="#page_49">49</a><br />
+Sabine, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br />
+Terror, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br />
+Whewell, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br />
+
+<p class="index">Mulock, Lieut. George F. A., <a href="#page_27">27</a>,
+<a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>,
+<a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>,
+<a href="#page_197">197</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Nansen, Dr., <a href="#page_17">17</a>,
+<a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_20">20</a>,
+<a href="#page_89">89</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Naval Discipline Act, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nell, dog, <a href="#page_101">101</a>,
+<a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, <a href="#page_125">125-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_129">129</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nelson, Edward W., biologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>,
+<a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276-7</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_319">319-20</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Newbolt, Henry, <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_31">31</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">New Harbor, <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_315">315</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Newnes, Sir George, <a href="#page_43">43</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">New Zealand, <a href="#page_23">23</a>,
+<a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_38">38</a>,
+<a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">New Zealand, Government of,
+<a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nigger, dog, <a href="#page_101">101</a>,
+<a href="#page_108">108-9</a>, <a href="#page_125">125-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_129">129</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nobby, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>,
+<a href="#page_268">268</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_342">342-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_353">353</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Northern Party, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242-3</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Norway, <a href="#page_17">17</a>,
+<a href="#page_89">89</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Norwegians, the, <a href="#page_384">384-5</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G.,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a>,
+<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_239">239-40</a>,
+<a href="#page_241">241</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_248">248-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_252">252</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261-2</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>,
+<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>,
+<a href="#page_279">279-80</a>,
+<a href="#page_284">284-5</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318-20</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_333">333</a>,
+<a href="#page_336">336-7</a>, <a href="#page_343">343-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_364">364</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a> <i>seq.</i></p>
+
+<p class="index">Outlands, <a href="#page_2">2</a>,
+<a href="#page_5">5</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Observatory Hill, <a href="#page_60">60</a>,
+<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Oil, shortage of, <a href="#page_404">404-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_408">408</a>, <a href="#page_411">411</a>,
+<a href="#page_416">416</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">'Old Mooney,' <a href="#page_6">6</a>,
+<a href="#page_8">8</a>, <a href="#page_9">9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Omelchenko, Anton. <i>See</i> Anton</p>
+
+<p class="index">One Ton Camp, <a href="#page_253">253</a>,
+<a href="#page_317">317</a>, <a href="#page_326">326-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_371">371</a>, <a href="#page_410">410-11</a>,
+<a href="#page_412">412</a>, <a href="#page_415">415</a>,
+<a href="#page_417">417</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Osman, dog, <a href="#page_255">255-6</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">P. and O. Company, <a href="#page_25">25</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pack-ice, <a href="#page_35">35</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_44">44</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>,
+<a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>,
+<a href="#page_216">216</a>-17, <a href="#page_218">218</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Parry Mountains, <a href="#page_54">54</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Peary, Lieutenant, <a href="#page_28">28</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Penguins, <a href="#page_36">36</a>,
+<a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>,
+<a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br />
+Emperor, <a href="#page_106">106</a>,
+<a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>,
+<a href="#page_294">294</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>,
+<a href="#page_305">305</a><br />
+King, <a href="#page_36">36</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L., <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_230">230</a>,
+<a href="#page_238">238</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Petrels, <a href="#page_35">35</a><br />
+Antarctic, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br />
+Giant, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br />
+Southern Fulmar, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br />
+White Snow, <a href="#page_40">40</a><br />
+Wilson stormy, <a href="#page_35">35</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pigg, James, pony, <a href="#page_250">250</a>,
+<a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_261">261</a>,
+<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_268">268</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_318">318</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>,
+<a href="#page_342">342</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Plumley, Frank, stoker, <a href="#page_62">62</a>,
+<a href="#page_157">157</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pole, the South, <a href="#page_382">382</a>
+<i>seq.</i><br />
+Camp, <a href="#page_384">384</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ponies, the, <a href="#page_212">212-15</a>,
+<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>,
+<a href="#page_239">239</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>,
+<a href="#page_243">243</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_263">263-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_285">285-6</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a> <i>seq.</i></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_219">219</a>,
+<a href="#page_227">227-8</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_276">276-7</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>,
+<a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>,
+<a href="#page_314">314</a>, <a href="#page_319">319</a>,
+<a href="#page_327">327</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Port Chalmers, <a href="#page_38">38</a>,
+<a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#page_212">212</a><br />
+Ross, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br />
+Stanley, <a href="#page_199">199</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Possession Islands, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pram Point, <a href="#page_263">263</a>,
+<a href="#page_269">269</a><br />
+Bay, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br />
+Ridges, <a href="#page_267">267</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>President</i>, H.M.S.,
+<a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pressure Ridges, <a href="#page_319">319</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Priestley, Raymond E., geologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Proverbs, <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_137">137</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Punch, pony, <a href="#page_262">262</a>,
+<a href="#page_266">266</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker,
+<a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>,
+<a href="#page_67">67-8</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_175">175</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Razor Back Islands, <a href="#page_240">240</a>,
+<a href="#page_274">274</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P.,
+<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Roberston Bay, <a href="#page_42">42</a>,
+<a href="#page_195">195</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Rodd, Sir Rennell, <i>quoted</i>,
+<a href="#page_231">231</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ross, Sir James, <a href="#page_31">31</a>,
+<a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>,
+<a href="#page_54">54-5</a>, <a href="#page_196">196-7</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ross Harbor, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">&nbsp;&nbsp;Island, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">&nbsp;&nbsp;Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">&nbsp;&nbsp;Sea, <a href="#page_216">216</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Rover</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_10">10</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Royal Geographical Society,
+<a href="#page_17">17</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Royal Society, <a href="#page_17">17</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R., <a href="#page_18">18</a>,
+<a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>,
+<a href="#page_61">61</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_74">74-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_85">85-7</a>,
+<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>,
+<a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>,
+<a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_155">155</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Russell Islands, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Safety Camp, <a href="#page_243">243-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_245">245-6</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a>,
+<a href="#page_258">258-9</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>,
+<a href="#page_329">329-30</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">San Francisco, <a href="#page_11">11</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sawing-camp, <a href="#page_175">175</a>,
+<a href="#page_178">178-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Saxon</i>, S.S., <a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scamp, dog, <a href="#page_37">37</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scott, John Edward, <a href="#page_1">1</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to,
+<a href="#page_427">427</a>, <a href="#page_428">428</a>,
+<a href="#page_429">429</a>, <i>et passim</i></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to,
+<a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scott of Brownhead, <a href="#page_1">1</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scott, Peter Markham, <a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Scurvy, <a href="#page_103">103-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_117">117</a>, <a href="#page_129">129</a>,
+<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a>,
+<a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_371">371</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sea leopard, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
+elephant, <a href="#page_185">185</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Seals, <a href="#page_41">41</a>,
+<a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>,
+<a href="#page_279">279</a><br />
+crab-eater, <a href="#page_41">41</a><br />
+Ross, <a href="#page_41">41</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Shackleton, Sir Ernest H., <a href="#page_27">27</a>,
+<a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>,
+<a href="#page_107">107</a> <i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>,
+<a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_352">352</a>,
+<a href="#page_357">357</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a>, <a href="#page_375">375</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Shackleton's hut, <a href="#page_286">286</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Shakespeare, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>,
+<a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Shambles Camp, <a href="#page_353">353</a>,
+<a href="#page_401">401</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Shelley, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>,
+<a href="#page_167">167</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ship Committee, <a href="#page_17">17</a>,
+<a href="#page_20">20</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Simon's Bay, <a href="#page_32">32</a>,
+<a href="#page_33">33</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Simpson. George C., Meteorologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>,
+<a href="#page_281">281-2</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>,
+<a href="#page_312">312</a>, <a href="#page_316">316</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W., <a href="#page_18">18</a>,
+<a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_85">85-6</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>,
+<a href="#page_147">147-8</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_164">164-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_191">191-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ski, <a href="#page_19">19</a>,
+<a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>,
+<a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_173">173</a>,
+<a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>,
+<a href="#page_354">354-5</a>, <a href="#page_358">358</a>,
+<a href="#page_360">360</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a>,
+<a href="#page_375">375</a>, <a href="#page_386">386</a>,
+<a href="#page_388">388</a>, <a href="#page_390">390</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Ski-shoes, <a href="#page_361">361</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Skua gulls, <a href="#page_40">40</a>,
+<a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Skuary, the, <a href="#page_225">225</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sledge equipment, <a href="#page_89">89</a>,
+<a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_312">312</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sledges, <a href="#page_91">91</a>,
+<a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_370">370</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sleeping-bags, <a href="#page_304">304</a>,
+<a href="#page_306">306</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a>,
+<a href="#page_388">388</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald,
+<a href="#page_427">427</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Smith's Inlet, <a href="#page_260">260</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Snatcher, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a>,
+<a href="#page_115">115</a><br />
+pony, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Snippets, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_328">328</a>, <a href="#page_332">332</a>,
+<a href="#page_341">341</a>, <a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Snow-shoes, for ponies, <a href="#page_245">245</a>,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_352">352</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">South Africa, Government of,
+<a href="#page_207">207</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Southern Barrier Dep&ocirc;t,
+<a href="#page_342">342</a><br />
+Road, the, <a href="#page_239">239-40</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">South Polar Times, <i>Discovery</i> Expedition,
+<a href="#page_79">79-80</a><br />
+Last Expedition, <a href="#page_281">281</a>,
+<a href="#page_290">290-1</a>, <a href="#page_373">373</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Spenser, <i>quoted</i>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to,
+<a href="#page_424">424</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Spud, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_115">115</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Stareek, dog, <a href="#page_244">244-5</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Stoke Damerel, <a href="#page_5">5</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Stripes, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Stubbington House, Fareham, <a href="#page_5">5</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sturge Island, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sun, eclipse of, <a href="#page_156">156</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Sverdrup's 'New Land', <a href="#page_295">295</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_273">273-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_281">281-2</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>,
+<a href="#page_287">287</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a>,
+<a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Telephone, the, <a href="#page_318">318-19</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Tent, double, <a href="#page_295">295</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Tent, Island, <a href="#page_297">297</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a><br />
+Islet, <a href="#page_184">184</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Terra Nova</i>, Discovery Expedition,
+<a href="#page_182">182-3</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a> <i>seq.</i>,
+<a href="#page_194">194</a>,<br />
+Last Expedition,
+<a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>,
+<a href="#page_220">220</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>,
+<a href="#page_292">292</a>, <a href="#page_324">324</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Thermometer, minimum, <a href="#page_253">253</a>,
+<a href="#page_337">337</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Thomson, Sir Courtauld, <a href="#page_11">11</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Three Degree Dep&ocirc;t, <a href="#page_370">370</a>,
+<a href="#page_385">385-6</a>, <a href="#page_387">387</a>,
+<a href="#page_389">389</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Transport, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_345">345</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Turtle Back Island, <a href="#page_271">271</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Uncle Bill, pony, <a href="#page_262">262-3</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Uniform overcoat, <a href="#page_309">309</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Union Jack, the, <a href="#page_235">235</a>,
+<a href="#page_291">291</a>, <a href="#page_384">384</a>,
+<a href="#page_428">428-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Upper Glacier Dep&ocirc;t, <a href="#page_390">390</a>,
+<a href="#page_392">392</a>, <a href="#page_404">404</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Vic, dog, <a href="#page_108">108</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Victor, pony, <a href="#page_308">308-9</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_334">334</a>,
+<a href="#page_343">343</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Victoria, B.C., <a href="#page_11">11</a><br />
+Land, <a href="#page_42">42</a>,
+<a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>,
+<a href="#page_167">167</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>,
+<a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br />
+Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p>
+
+<p class="index"><i>Victorious</i>, H.M.S.,
+<a href="#page_206">206</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Vince, A. B., <a href="#page_63">63</a>,
+<a href="#page_66">66-9</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>,
+<a href="#page_234">234</a></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Weary Willy, pony, <a href="#page_245">245</a>,
+<a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_261">261-3</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Weddell Quadrant, <a href="#page_29">29</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Weller, William J., A.B., <a href="#page_48">48</a>,
+<a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Western Geological Party (1),
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>,
+<a href="#page_270">270</a><br />
+(2) <a href="#page_317">317</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a>, <a href="#page_327">327</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Western Mountains, <a href="#page_312">312</a>,
+<a href="#page_325">325</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Whales, killer, <a href="#page_227">227-8</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">White Island, <a href="#page_134">134</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wild, Frank, <a href="#page_62">62-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>,
+<a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wilkes, Commodore, <a href="#page_197">197</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wilkes Land, <a href="#page_198">198</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Williams, William, engineer,
+<a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Williamson, Thomas S., P.O.,
+<a href="#page_157">157</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>,
+<a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wilson, Dr. E. A., chief, the scientific staff
+(Last Expedition),<br />
+zoologist, <a href="#page_5">5</a>,
+<a href="#page_26">26-8</a>, <a href="#page_35">35-6</a>,
+<a href="#page_48">48-9</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>,
+<a href="#page_75">75-6</a>, <a href="#page_80">80</a>,
+<a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>
+<i>seq.</i>, <a href="#page_143">143-4</a>,
+<a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>,
+<a href="#page_155">155-6</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>,
+<a href="#page_180">180-1</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a>,
+<a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>,
+<a href="#page_219">219-20</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>,
+<a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a>,
+<a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242-4</a>, <a href="#page_246">246-8</a>,
+<a href="#page_254">254-6</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>,
+<a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>,
+<a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a>,
+<a href="#page_269">269-70</a>, <a href="#page_272">272-3</a>,
+<a href="#page_279">279-80</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>,
+<a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a>,
+<a href="#page_300">300-7</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a>,
+<a href="#page_318">318-19</a>, <a href="#page_320">320-2</a>,
+<a href="#page_324">324-5</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>,
+<a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_344">344</a>,
+<a href="#page_351">351</a>, <a href="#page_353">353-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_361">361</a>, <a href="#page_364">364</a>,
+<a href="#page_372">372</a> <i>seq.</i></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wilson, Mrs., letter to,
+<a href="#page_421">421</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Winter Quarter Bay, <a href="#page_60">60</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wisting, Oscar, <a href="#page_383">383</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wolf, dog, <a href="#page_108">108-9</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wolseley Motor Company, <a href="#page_229">229</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wood Bay, <a href="#page_49">49</a>,
+<a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_141">141</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Wright, Charles S., physicist,
+<a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>,
+<a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>,
+<a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>,
+<a href="#page_308">308</a>, <a href="#page_314">314</a>,
+<a href="#page_321">321</a>, <a href="#page_329">329</a>,
+<a href="#page_335">335</a>, <a href="#page_340">340</a>,
+<a href="#page_344">344</a>, <a href="#page_354">354-5</a>,
+<a href="#page_362">362</a></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 6721-h.htm or 6721-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/2/6721/
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
+
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig001.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig001.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f5091e9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig001.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig002.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig002.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f2b7264
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig002.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig003.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig003.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..83c87e2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig003.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig004a.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig004a.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..085c63f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig004a.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig004b.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig004b.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8aa2018
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig004b.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig005.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig005.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..af40616
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig005.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig006.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig006.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7430074
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig006.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig007.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig007.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a61d380
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig007.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig008.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig008.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0060c9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig008.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig009.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig009.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f7e36c3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig009.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig010.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig010.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..c872fb2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig010.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig011.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig011.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..18123d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig011.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig012.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig012.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e3548c1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig012.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig013.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig013.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..add9174
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig013.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig014.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig014.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..62359a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig014.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig015.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig015.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..23d117b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig015.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig016.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig016.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b1caa7d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig016.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig017.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig017.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..fbadc60
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig017.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig018.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig018.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..938cdcf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig018.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig019.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig019.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7f97f7d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig019.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig020.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig020.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..acd1001
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig020.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig021.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig021.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd66b12
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig021.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig022.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig022.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e43ecaf
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig022.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig023.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig023.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..34f21cd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig023.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig024.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig024.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0838dc9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig024.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig025.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig025.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1a58185
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig025.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig026.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig026.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..330cd80
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig026.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig027.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig027.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c69c22
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig027.jpg
diff --git a/6721-h/images/fig028.jpg b/6721-h/images/fig028.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..46206d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721-h/images/fig028.jpg
diff --git a/6721.txt b/6721.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..25cce1b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,12772 @@
+Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott
+       Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's
+       Last Expedition'
+
+Author: Charles Turley
+
+Release Date: January 7, 2006 [EBook #6721]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+
+
+
+[Page ii]
+[Illustration: Captain Robert F. Scott R.N.
+
+_J. Russell & Sons, Southsea, photographers_]
+
+
+[Page iii]
+THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT
+
+
+_Retold from 'The Voyage of the "Discovery"' and 'Scott's Last
+Expedition'_
+
+
+BY CHARLES TURLEY
+
+Author of 'Godfrey Marten, Schoolboy,' 'A Band of Brothers,' etc.
+
+
+With an introduction by
+
+SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+
+
+Numerous illustrations in colour and black and white and a map
+
+
+
+
+[Page v]
+CONTENTS
+
+  INTRODUCTION
+
+  THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+  Chapter
+       I. The 'Discovery'.
+      II. Southward Ho!
+     III. In Search of Winter Quarters.
+      IV. The Polar Winter.
+       V. The Start of the Southern Journey.
+      VI. The Return.
+     VII. A Second Winter.
+    VIII. The Western Journey.
+      IX. The Return from the West.
+       X. Release.
+
+  THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+  Chapter
+          Preface to 'Scott's Last Expedition'.
+          Biographical Note.
+          British Antarctic Expedition, 1910.
+[Page vi]
+       I. Through Stormy Seas.
+      II. Depot Laying to One Ton Camp.
+     III. Perils.
+      IV. A Happy Family.
+       V. Winter.
+      VI. Good-bye to Cape Evans.
+     VII. The Southern Journey Begins.
+    VIII. On the Beardmore Glacier.
+      IX. The South Pole.
+       X. On the Homeward Journey.
+      XI. The Last March.
+          Search Party Discovers the Tent.
+          In Memoriam.
+          Farewell Letters.
+          Message to the Public.
+          Index.
+
+
+
+
+[Page vii]
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  _PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE_
+
+    Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott
+      _From a photograph by J. Russell & Son, Southsea_.
+
+  _COLOURED PLATES_
+
+    _From Water-Colour Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson._.
+
+    Sledding.
+    Mount Erebus.
+    Lunar Corona.
+    'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp.
+
+  _DOUBLE PAGE PLATE_
+
+    Panorama at Cape Evans.
+    Berg in South Bay.
+
+  _FULL PAGE PLATES_
+
+    Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet.
+    The 'Discovery'.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depot.
+    Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.
+    Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.
+    The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.
+    Pony Camp on the barrier.
+    Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.
+    Pitching the double tent on the summit.
+[Page viii]
+    Adelie Penguin on nest.
+    Emperor Penguins on sea-ice.
+    Dog party starting from Hut Point.
+    Dog lines.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depot.
+    Looking south from Lower Glacier depot,
+    Man hauling camp, 87th parallel.
+    The party at the South Pole.
+    'The Last Rest'.
+
+    Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal.
+
+    Track chart of main southern journey.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 1]
+INTRODUCTION
+
+BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+
+On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately
+home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief
+recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing
+man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the
+streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I then
+escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long through
+the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the life of
+action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those who
+sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he assured
+me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems to have
+been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I had drawn
+this from him with a promise that, if his reply was satisfactory, I
+would let him go to bed. However, the family traditions (they are
+nothing more) do bring him from across the border. According to
+them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott of Brownhead whose
+estates were sequestered after the '45. His dwelling was razed
+to the ground and he fled with his wife, to whom after some grim
+privations a son was born in a fisherman's hut on September 14,
+1745. This son eventually settled in Devon, where he prospered,
+[Page 2]
+for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands that he died. He
+had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the eldest had as
+youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the Captain Scott who
+was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the same date, or perhaps
+a little earlier, it was decided that the boy should go into the
+Navy like so many of his for-bears.
+
+I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days of
+Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may have
+some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain Scott;
+and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some chance
+for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things does
+not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history aged
+six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in velveteen,
+being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping horribly,
+like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest recollection of
+him of a sister, who was too young to join in a children's party
+on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always called, had intimated
+to her that from a window she would be able to see him taking a
+noble lead in the festivities in the garden, and she looked; and
+that is what she saw. He had been showing his guests how superbly
+he could jump the leat, and had fallen into it.
+
+Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch of
+the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another
+branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These were
+the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many ways of
+being in them accidentally, it being forbidden
+[Page 3]
+to enter them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother
+a new version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of
+'Touch.' You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little
+good fortune, one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not
+so much matter though you got wetter.
+
+An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields was
+to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned the easy
+ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach to this
+dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his country and
+of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties of gallant tars
+to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At foot of the avenue
+was an oak tree which hung over the road, and thus by dropping from
+this tree you got into open country. The tree was (at this time)
+of an enormous size, with sufficient room to conceal a navy, and
+the navy consisted mainly of the sisters and the young brother.
+All had to be ready at any moment to leap from the tree and join
+issue with the enemy on the leat. In the fields there was also a
+mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups 'the pond,' and here Scott's
+battleship lay moored. It seems for some time to have been an English
+vessel, but by and by he was impelled, as all boys are, to blow
+something up, and he could think of nothing more splendid for his
+purpose than the battleship. Thus did it become promptly a ship
+of the enemy doing serious damage to the trade of those parts,
+and the valiant Con took to walking about with lips pursed, brows
+frowning as he cogitated how to remove the
+[Page 4]
+Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters and brother trotting
+by his side and looking anxiously into his set face. At last he
+decided to blow the accursed thing up with gunpowder. His crew
+cheered, and then waited to be sent to the local shop for a pennyworth
+of gunpowder. But Con made his own gunpowder, none of the faithful
+were ever told how, and on a great day the train was laid. Con applied
+the match and ordered all to stand back. A deafening explosion was
+expected, but a mere puff of flame was all that came; the Terror
+of Devon, which to the unimaginative was only a painted plank,
+still rode the waters. With many boys this would be the end of
+the story, but not with Con. He again retired to the making of
+gunpowder, and did not desist from his endeavors until he had blown
+that plank sky-high.
+
+His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is probably
+the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly always given
+it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was with Con, and a
+few minutes after he had sworn that he would not open it he was
+begging for permission to use it on a tempting sapling. 'Very well,'
+his father said grimly, 'but remember, if you hurt yourself, don't
+expect any sympathy from me.' The knife was opened, and to cut
+himself rather badly proved as easy as falling into the leat. The
+father, however, had not noticed, and the boy put his bleeding
+hand into his pocket and walked on unconcernedly. He was really
+considerably damaged; and this is a good story of a child of seven
+who all his life suffered extreme nausea from
+[Page 5]
+the sight of blood; even in the _Discovery_ days, to get accustomed
+to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch Dr. Wilson skinning
+his specimens.
+
+When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess,
+and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel
+and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between
+Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in
+vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing
+other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this
+is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a
+gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and when
+he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be seen. He
+walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic was that
+he called at police-stations on the way to give practical details
+of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children would have
+thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange mixture of the
+dreamy and the practical, and never more practical than immediately
+after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and time altogether when
+thus abstracted. I remember the first time he dined with me, when
+a number of well-known men had come to meet him, he arrived some
+two hours late. He had dressed to come out, then fallen into one
+of his reveries, forgotten all about the engagement, dined by himself
+and gone early to bed. Just as he was falling asleep he remembered
+where he should be, arose hastily and joined us as speedily as
+possible. It was equally characteristic of him to say
+[Page 6]
+of the other guests that it was pleasant to a sailor to meet so
+many interesting people. When I said that to them the sailor was
+by far the most interesting person in the room he shouted with
+mirth. It always amused Scott to find that anyone thought him a
+person of importance.
+
+[Illustration: ROBERT F. SCOTT AT THE AGE OF 13 AS A NAVAL CADET.]
+
+I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as later
+when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly
+built. This was so far from being the case that there were many
+anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could
+not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary
+number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined to
+be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here printed,
+in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had gone by the
+time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no letters of
+this period extant and thus little can be said of his years on
+the _Britannia_ where 'you never felt hot in your bunk because you
+could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at port hole.'
+He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who is not thought
+well of by the other boys as well as by their instructors, but none
+of them foresaw that he was likely to become anybody in particular.
+He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father had dubbed him, owing to
+his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him to work hard, he cast a
+wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a good loser, he was untidy
+to the point of slovenliness, and he had a fierce temper. All this
+I think has been proved to me up to the
+[Page 7]
+hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so cannot
+be very different from the man he grows into it leaves me puzzled.
+The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically as hard as
+nails and flung himself into work or play with a vehemence I cannot
+remember ever to have seen equaled. I have fished with him, played
+cricket and football with him, and other games, those of his own
+invention being of a particularly arduous kind, for they always
+had a moment when the other players were privileged to fling a hard
+ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,' was the last quality
+you would think of when you saw him bearing down on you with that
+ball, and it was the last he asked of you if you were bearing down
+on him. He was equally strenuous of work; indeed I have no clearer
+recollection of him than his way of running from play to work or work
+to play, so that there should be the least possible time between.
+It is the 'time between' that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott
+lived less in it than anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the
+best of losers, with a shout of delight for every good stroke by
+an opponent: what is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat
+and correct in his dress, quite a model for the youth who come
+after him, but that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good
+form' in the Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof.
+I have never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and
+I have seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have
+been excusable.
+
+However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was
+[Page 8]
+none of those things I saw in him but something better. The faults
+of his youth must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he
+got to know they were there and he took an iron grip of them and
+never let go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything
+else that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud.
+I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his manhood
+days which are not strictly within the sphere of this introductory
+note. The horror of slackness was turned into a very passion for
+keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one time taking charge
+of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race it all the way between
+work and home, a distance of three miles. Even when he was getting
+the _Discovery_ ready and doing daily the work of several men, he
+might have been seen running through the streets of London from
+Savile Row or the Admiralty to his home, not because there was
+no time for other method of progression, but because he must be
+fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for him; he kept an eye for
+ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly the most practical of
+men. And practical in the cheeriest of ways. In 1894 a disastrous
+change came over the fortunes of the family, the father's money
+being lost and then Scott was practical indeed. A letter he wrote I
+at this time to his mother, tenderly taking everything and everybody
+on his shoulders, must be one of the best letters ever written by
+a son, and I hope it may be some day published. His mother was the
+great person of his early life, more to him even than his brother
+[Page 9]
+or his father, whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of
+following the sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all
+bound up in this son, determined that Con should do the big things
+he had not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the
+head of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not
+in an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He
+never seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles
+fell, and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became
+famous as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old
+Mooney' in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts,
+in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district,
+deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words, 'Wull
+'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young gentleman
+be here along?'
+
+Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived
+the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and
+took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were
+satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his sisters.
+It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness so
+far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model
+for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While
+there were others to help he would not spend his small means on
+himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that he had
+grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a pin. In
+the days when he returned from
+[Page 10]
+his first voyage in the Antarctic and all England was talking of him,
+one of his most novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class
+tailor and be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by
+the possession of this as a child. When going about the country
+lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was
+sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red
+carpets.
+
+The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but by
+now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days of which
+unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends who remember
+the tempers remember also the sunny smile that dissipated them. When
+I knew him the sunny smile was there frequently, and was indeed
+his greatest personal adornment, but the tempers never reached
+the surface. He had become master of his fate and captain of his
+soul.
+
+In 1886 Scott became a middy on the _Boadicea_, and later on various
+ships, one of them the _Rover_, of which Admiral Fisher was at
+that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection of a little
+black pig having been found under his bunk one night. He cannot
+swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was certainly
+one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a punishment.
+In 1888 Scott passed his examinations for sub-lieutenant, with
+four first-class honours and one second, and so left his boyhood
+behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion to
+these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld
+[Page 11]
+Thomson that gives a very attractive glimpse of him in this same
+year:
+
+'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find my
+way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up and
+the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found tramp
+steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians hurrying off
+to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked a very unpleasant lot
+of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing Frisco toughs joined
+me in my cabin, which was none too large for a single person. I was
+then told that yet another had somehow to be wedged in. While I
+was wondering if he could be a more ill-favored or dirtier specimen
+of humanity than the others the last comer suddenly appeared--the
+jolliest and breeziest English naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con
+Scott. I had never seen him before, but we at once became friends
+and remained so till the end. He was going up to join his ship
+which, I think, was the _Amphion_, at Esquimault, B. C.
+
+'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full
+gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was so
+overcrowded that a large number of women and children were allowed
+to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on condition
+that they got up early, so that the rest of the passengers could
+come in for breakfast and the other meals.
+
+'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a woman
+was able to get up, and the
+[Page 12]
+saloon was soon in an indescribable condition. Practically no attempt
+was made to serve meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves
+mostly out of action from drink or sea-sickness.
+
+'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent
+their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some of
+our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share
+of the waves that were washing the deck.
+
+'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human
+being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took
+command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as their
+Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of volunteers
+he led an attack on the saloon--dressed the mothers, washed the
+children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors and nursed the
+sick, and performed every imaginable service for all hands. On
+deck he settled the quarrels and established order either by his
+personality, or, if necessary, by his fists. Practically by day
+and night he worked for the common good, never sparing himself,
+and with his infectious smile gradually made us all feel the whole
+thing was jolly good fun.
+
+'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself who,
+after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds the
+vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing
+blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself for
+the welfare and happiness of others.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 13]
+THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+[Illustration: THE 'DISCOVERY'. Reproduced from a drawing by Dr.
+E. A. Wilson.]
+
+
+
+
+[Page 15]
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE _DISCOVERY_
+
+  Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore
+  Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore.
+
+In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave in
+London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the Buckingham
+Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first time of a
+prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following day he called
+upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of this eventful
+visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there was a remarkable
+coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant of the _Majestic_. I
+was just sitting down to write to my old friend Captain Egerton[1]
+about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command
+the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great a
+trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply
+and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed
+a foregone conclusion.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.]
+
+The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir
+[Page 16]
+Clements and Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of
+his cousin, the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the
+acquaintance of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised
+it. During the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott
+more than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down
+as a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir
+Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy
+stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this
+Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead it. So
+when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank of Commander,
+and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the work that was
+waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed from the shoulders
+of the man who had not only proposed the expedition, but had also
+resolved that nothing should prevent it from going.
+
+Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered
+before the _Discovery_ could start upon her voyage. First and foremost
+was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable efforts the
+financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of 1899. Later
+on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy with the
+objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him that
+the Government eventually agreed to contribute L45,000, provided
+that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions.
+
+In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the
+[Page 17]
+special Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition,
+was laid in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite
+beginning, at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had
+taken up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control
+over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition, the
+only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday. A visit
+to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions from Dr.
+Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there he discovered
+that the German expedition, which was to sail from Europe at the same
+time as his own, was already in an advanced state of preparation.
+Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to England and found, as
+he had expected, that all the arrangements, which were in full
+swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill in England. The
+construction of the ship was the only work that was progressing,
+and even in this there were many interruptions from the want of
+some one to give immediate decisions on points of detail.
+
+A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on November
+4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and the Royal
+Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left Scott practically
+with a free hand to push on the work in every department, under a
+given estimate of expenditure in each. To safeguard the interests
+of the two Societies the resolution provided that this expenditure
+should be supervised by a Finance Committee,
+[Page 18]
+and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties
+were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests
+to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally
+arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it is mere
+justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its members
+began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of the undertaking.
+
+In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as possible,
+the various members of the expedition. Before he had left the _Majestic_
+he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the intention as regards
+the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody them from the R.N.? I
+sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set his heart on obtaining a
+naval crew, partly because he thought that their sense of discipline
+would be invaluable, but also because he doubted his ability to
+deal with any other class of men.
+
+The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that
+Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not from
+any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions of principle
+and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance in this respect
+was limited to two officers, Scott himself and Royds, then the
+limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer, a carpenter and
+a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval nucleus was obtained.
+But it was not until the spring of 1901 that the Admiralty, thanks to
+Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald Douglas, gave in altogether,
+and as the selection of
+[Page 19]
+the most fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men
+did not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing.
+
+For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters
+in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal in
+Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges,
+ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while
+tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples
+of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily
+on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes
+depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly
+be ready to start at the required date.
+
+During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction
+of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and the
+carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous small
+difficulties that arose in connection with the building of the
+ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also been filled
+up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in many places.
+Some men were working on their especial subjects in the British
+Museum, others were preparing themselves at the Physical Laboratory
+at Kew, and others, again, were traveling in various directions
+both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs the central office
+was obliged to take notice, and so for its occupants idle moments
+were few and very far between. Nansen said once that the hardest work
+[Page 20]
+of a Polar voyage came in its preparation, and during the years
+1900-1, Scott found ample cause to agree with him. But in spite
+of conflicting interests, which at times threatened to wreck the
+well-being of the expedition, work, having been properly organized,
+went steadily forward; until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel was
+launched at Dundee and named the '_Discovery_' by Lady Markham.
+
+In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best plan
+was to revive some time-honoured title, and that few names were more
+distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of that name,
+and inherited a long record of honourable and fortunate service.
+
+The _Discovery_ had been nothing more than a skeleton when it was
+decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London;
+consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought
+round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East
+India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores
+were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined
+to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was
+laden.
+
+Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen
+strongly recommended a vessel of the _Fram_ type with fuller lines
+for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed to
+consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had very
+sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's
+[Page 21]
+celebrated _Fram_ was built for the specific object of remaining
+safely in the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures
+which were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object
+was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of the
+vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure
+merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this design
+was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation that its
+conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What, however, has
+been generally forgotten is that the safety of the _Fram_ was secured
+at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers of ice-penetration.
+
+Since the _Fram_ was built there have been two distinct types of
+Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security in
+the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to sail
+the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs. And
+a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which of
+these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration, because
+it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all be prepared
+to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and then be ready
+to force her way through the ice-floes to the mysteries beyond.
+
+By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances, the
+old _Discovery_ (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the best ship
+that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the Ship Committee
+eventually decided that the new vessel should be built on more
+[Page 22]
+or less the same lines. The new _Discovery_ had the honour to be
+the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration, and the
+decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was more than
+justified by her excellent qualities.
+
+The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had to
+be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the ship
+gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass of solid
+wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting. No single
+tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the several trees
+used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent of a solid
+block. In further preparation for the battle with ice-floes, the
+stem itself and the bow for three or four feet on either side were
+protected with numerous steel plates, so that when the ship returned
+to civilization not a scratch remained to show the hard knocks
+received by the bow.
+
+The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration. In
+the outline drawing of the _Discovery_ will be seen how largely
+the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than
+in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted
+was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging
+a large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the
+bows were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship
+acting downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would drop,
+and gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against the
+[Page 23]
+next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the elasticity
+and strength to thrust its way without injury through the thick
+Polar ice.
+
+In Dundee the building of the _Discovery_ aroused the keenest interest,
+and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an entirely new
+feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the strongest criticism.
+All sorts of misfortunes were predicted, but events proved that
+this overhanging rounded form of stem was infinitely superior for
+ice-work to the old form of stem, because it gave better protection
+to the rudder, rudder post and screw, and was more satisfactory
+in heavy seas.
+
+[Illustration: PROFILE DRAWING OF 'DISCOVERY'.]
+
+[Illustration: OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF 'DISCOVERY' AND 'FRAM'.]
+
+Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the _Discovery_
+the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,' was
+an important place. For the best of reasons it was important that
+the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should be as
+accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood that magnetic
+observations cannot be taken in a place closely surrounded by iron.
+The ardor of the magnetic experts on the Ship Committee had led
+them at first to ask that there should be neither iron nor steel
+in the vessel, but after it had been pointed out that this could
+scarcely be, a compromise was arrived at and it was agreed that
+no magnetic materials should be employed within thirty feet of
+the observatory. This decision caused immense trouble and expense,
+but in the end it was justified, for the magnetic observations
+taken on board throughout the voyage
+[Page 25]
+required very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic
+experts were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from
+them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened
+with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the ship was
+on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into dire disgrace,
+not because it was too talkative, but because it had been hanging
+on the mess-deck during a whole set of observations, and the wires
+of its cage were made of iron.
+
+The _Discovery_ was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel ever
+built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about
+his officers and men as he was about the ship herself.
+
+The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small
+wardroom of the _Discovery_ was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage, R.N.R.
+He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship
+training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience;
+for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in
+1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth
+Expedition to Franz-Josef Land.
+
+Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service
+in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were
+expected to be light, he combined them with those of official botanist.
+
+The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook
+or crook all the strange beasts
+[Page 26]
+that inhabit the Polar seas, and no greater enthusiast for his work
+could have been chosen.
+
+Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do
+with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in
+the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war.
+Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face of
+great difficulties he secured the most valuable records.
+
+Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott in
+the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the expedition
+had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted for a voyage
+where there were many elements of dangers and difficulty.'
+
+The original idea in appointing two doctors to the _Discovery_ was
+that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party.
+This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason
+to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed
+was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which arose
+between them, and which in the end was destined to make history, it
+is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is believed to
+be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter headed
+'At sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who will do
+great things some day--Wilson. He has quite the keenest intellect
+on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know his artistic
+talent, but would be surprised at
+[Page 27]
+the speed at which he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which
+he is always at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps
+with any job that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow
+all round.
+
+Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate
+zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity he
+dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the second
+he produced a very large number of excellent pictures and sketches
+of the wild scenes among which he was living.
+
+One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to
+apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer.
+At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and his
+appointment to the _Discovery_ was most fortunate in every way. From
+first to last there was no serious difficulty with the machinery
+or with anything connected with it.
+
+The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition a
+short time before the _Discovery_ sailed, and the physicist, Louis
+Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand.
+
+In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout
+the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was obliged
+to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was taken by
+George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the Navy when
+he joined.
+
+Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson,
+[Page 28]
+who was thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members
+of the wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that
+time Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar
+service. Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced
+as the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his
+last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is the
+younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says he never
+felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between 30 and
+40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course. He is
+29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember that Peary
+was 52!'
+
+The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three
+years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen, and
+Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers, petty
+officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval discipline
+that is very necessary for such conditions as exist in Polar service.
+The _Discovery_, it must be remembered, was not in Government
+employment, and so had no more stringent regulations to enforce
+discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping Act. But
+everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was under the
+Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known that this
+state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much credit as
+the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously to observe
+it.
+
+[Page 29]
+Something remains to be said about the _Discovery's_ prospective
+course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott.
+
+For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested that
+the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants, to be
+named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and the
+Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant should
+be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was received
+with such unanimous approval that long before the _Discovery_ was
+built her prospective course had been finally decided. In fact
+every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in the
+Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions
+on such a voyage as the _Discovery's_ it may be thought that, when
+once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better.
+Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom
+to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general
+view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the various
+objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is clearly to
+the commander's advantage to know in what light these interests
+are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise. Of such a
+nature were the instructions Scott received before sailing for
+the South.
+
+During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable
+assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid it is
+doubtful if the _Discovery_ would ever have started had it not been
+[Page 30]
+that among these helpers was one who, from the first, had given
+his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand. After all
+is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the idea of this
+Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful personality which
+swept aside all obstacles and obstructions.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 31]
+CHAPTER II
+
+SOUTHWARD HO!
+
+  They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,
+  They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.
+  Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away.
+  And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay.
+  --NEWBOLT.
+
+On July 31, 1901, the _Discovery_ left the London Docks, and slowly
+wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5, she
+was honoured by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.
+This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties
+showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time
+it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed
+by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets and
+return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage were
+also not to be forgotten--a voyage to the Antarctic, the very map
+of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93.
+
+With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following
+on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and
+James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the
+Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered
+therefore that his great anxieties were
+[Page 32]
+to be off and doing, to justify the existence of the expedition at
+the earliest possible moment, and to obey the instructions which
+had been given him?
+
+Before the _Discovery_ had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was evident
+that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions,
+and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on
+the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to take
+full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the first
+exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback, as it had
+been confidently expected that there would be ample time to make
+trial of various devices for sounding and dredging in the deep
+sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact that no trials
+could be made on the outward voyage was severely felt when the
+Antarctic was reached.
+
+On October 2 the _Discovery_ arrived within 150 miles of the Cape,
+and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's Bay.
+The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons
+with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to
+be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at the
+Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our own
+observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time for such
+repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances, could
+alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne, however,
+worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received so much
+valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish a maximum
+[Page 33]
+amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.' In every
+way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the Cape.
+
+The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later
+the _Discovery_ once more put out to sea; and as time went on those
+on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy qualities.
+Towards the end of October there was a succession of heavy following
+gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous seas that followed
+in her wake, and, considering her size, she was wonderfully free
+of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following sea, however,
+she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and rolls of
+more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape of the stern,
+to which reference has been made, was now well tested. It gave
+additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing the ship to rise
+more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting effect was also
+directed to throwing the ship off her course, and consequently
+she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually became more
+expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other officers were
+on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was immediately swept by
+a monstrous sea which made a clean breach over her. Instinctively
+those on the bridge clutched the rails, and for several moments
+they were completely submerged while the spray dashed as high as
+the upper topsails.
+
+On November 12 the _Discovery_ was in lat. 51 S., long. 131 E.,
+and had arrived in such an extremely
+[Page 34]
+interesting magnetic area that they steered to the south to explore
+it. This new course took them far out of the track of ships and
+towards the regions of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those
+lonely waters when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking
+and a voice shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give
+any details of this alarming news the informant fled, and when
+Scott appeared hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was
+very dark and obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom
+were as ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered
+that the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily
+extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these
+days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of
+fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too
+serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth
+the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this was
+the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised in the
+_Discovery_.
+
+On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the following
+morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic shape by the
+action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with much excitement
+and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs of a heavier pack
+were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were all about the ship,
+and she was pushing her way amongst them and receiving her baptism
+of ice.
+
+[Page 35]
+This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded
+how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings.
+'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in a
+ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and again
+a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding of the
+floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more subdued
+hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for the first
+time we felt something of the solemnity of these great Southern
+solitudes.'
+
+The _Discovery_ was now within 200 miles of Adelie Land, and with
+steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But delays had already
+been excessive, and they could not be added to if New Zealand was
+to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's head was again turned
+towards the North, and soon passed into looser ice.
+
+One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans
+is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are these
+roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but in the
+majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for hours gather
+close about her. The greater number are of the petrel tribe, and
+vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their huge spread
+of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson stormy petrel,
+which flits under the foaming crests of the waves. For centuries
+these birds have been the friends of sailors, and as Wilson was
+able to distinguish and
+[Page 36]
+name the various visitors to the _Discovery_, the interest of the
+voyage was very greatly increased.
+
+'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report of
+the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island,
+exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory
+fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised so
+much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the few
+hours necessary for landing would be amply justified.... A landing
+was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin rookeries which
+had been observed from the ship were explored with much interest.
+One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully marked King penguin,
+while the other contained a smaller gold-crested broad-billed
+species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned to the ship, and shortly
+after we weighed anchor and proceeded. Including those collected
+in the ice, we had no fewer than 50 birds of various sorts to be
+skinned, and during the next few days several officers and men
+were busily engaged in this work under the superintendence of Dr.
+Wilson. The opportunity was taken of serving out the flesh of the
+penguins for food. I had anticipated considerable prejudice on
+the part of the men to this form of diet which it will so often
+be essential to enforce, and was agreeably surprised to find that
+they were by no means averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent,
+and all seemed to appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste
+for it. I found no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my
+own.'
+
+[Page 37]
+Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to
+Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was most
+comically divided between a desire to run away from the penguins,
+and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved him to be very
+courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and last experience
+of penguins, for it was felt that he would be unable to live in
+the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was found for him in New
+Zealand.
+
+Late on November 29 the _Discovery_ arrived off Lyttelton Heads,
+and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty in the
+harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which was
+shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of gratitude
+can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in every possible
+way, efficient and kindly assistance was given, and this was all
+the more valuable because a lot of work had to be done before the
+ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging had to be thoroughly
+overhauled and refitted; the magneticians had to undertake the
+comparison of their delicate instruments, and as this was the last
+occasion on which it could be done special attention was necessary;
+and a large quantity of stores had to be shipped, because some of
+those in the _Discovery_ had been damaged by the leaky state of
+the ship. This leak had never been dangerous, but all the same
+it had entailed many weary hours of pumping, and had caused much
+waste of time and of provisions. Among the many skilled
+[Page 38]
+workmen, whose united labour had produced the solid structure of
+the _Discovery_'s hull, had been one who had shirked his task, and
+although the ship was docked and most determined and persistent
+efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded in avoiding detection.
+
+As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a very
+busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton arrived,
+though not for the final departure from civilization, because a
+short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the south to complete
+the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21, the ship lay alongside
+the wharf ready for sea and very deeply laden. 'One could reflect
+that it would have been impossible to have got more into her, and
+that all we had got seemed necessary for the voyage, for the rest
+we could only trust that Providence would vouch-safe to us fine
+weather and an easy passage to the south.'
+
+New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm for the
+expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of the _Discovery_,
+while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with passengers, and
+with bands playing and whistles hooting, also accompanied her,
+until the open sea was reached and the _Discovery_ slowly steamed
+out between the war-ships that seemed to stand as sentinels to
+the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands of friends were
+hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy happened. Among
+the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging to wave their
+farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner, who,
+[Page 39]
+more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the crow's-nest
+to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the truck, he had
+remained cheering, until in a moment of madness he raised himself
+into a standing position, and almost directly afterwards he fell
+and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday the ship arrived
+at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with naval honours.
+
+By noon on the following day the _Discovery_ was clear of the harbor
+bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail towards the
+south. The last view of civilization, the last sight of fields and
+flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and Christmas
+Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern Ocean, though
+after such a recent parting from so many kind friends no one felt
+inclined for the customary festivities.
+
+In good sea trim the _Discovery_ had little to fear from the worst
+gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had she
+encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very unpleasant.
+Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have been lost; the
+masses of wood on the superstructure would have been in great danger,
+while all the sheep and possibly many of the dogs would have been
+drowned. Fine weather, however, continued, and on January 3 Scott
+and his companions crossed the Antarctic Circle, little thinking
+how long a time would elapse before they would recross it. At length
+they had entered the Antarctic regions; before them lay
+[Page 40]
+the scene of their work, and all the trials of preparation, and
+the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the fact that they had
+reached their goal in time to make use of the best part of the
+short open season in these icebound regions.
+
+Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that
+there were many large pools of open water. And then for several
+days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high
+praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect gem
+in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem to give
+quite the best combination possible for such a purpose. We have
+certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we have come
+through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with a gale of
+wind behind him.'
+
+Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack, and
+the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual
+interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors was
+the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage relieved
+only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These little
+birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern fulmar
+and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that unwholesome
+scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by; while the skua
+gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally flapped past, on
+his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge his hard-earned
+dinner.
+
+The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at
+[Page 41]
+first afar and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity
+drew them to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little
+visitors would again and again leap into the water, and journey
+from floe to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange
+apparition could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in
+imitating their calls, and could not only attract them from a long
+distance, but would visibly add to their astonishment when they
+approached. These were busy days for the penguins.
+
+In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours
+asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or white
+seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there is found
+the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins and even
+on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious to observe
+that both seals and penguins regard themselves as safe when out of
+the water. In the sea they are running risks all the time, and in
+that element Nature has made them swift to prey or to avoid being
+preyed upon. But once on ice or land they have known no enemy,
+and cannot therefore conceive one. The seal merely raises its head
+when anyone approaches, and then with but little fear; whereas it
+is often difficult to drive the penguin into the water, for he
+is firmly convinced that the sea is the sole source of danger.
+Several seals were killed for food, and from the first seal-meat
+was found palatable, if not altogether the form of diet to recommend
+to an epicure. The great drawback to the seal is that there is no
+fat except blubber,
+[Page 42]
+and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell.
+At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste
+and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked
+with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this
+smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver
+and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries.
+
+On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen, and
+soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft the glad
+tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship entered
+a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces, and after
+pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached the hard
+line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south nothing but
+a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same evening the
+joy of being again in the open sea was intensified by a shout of
+'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly gathered
+there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent. The
+sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless sky, and
+far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high mountain
+peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was now directed for
+Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing to the reappearance
+of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was eventually steered into
+the open water within the bay.
+
+Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare, within
+which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea, is a curious
+triangular
+[Page 43]
+spit, probably the morainic remains of the vaster ice conditions
+of former ages. It was on this spit that the expedition sent forth
+by Sir George Newnes and commanded by Borchgrevink spent their
+winter in 1896, the first party to winter on the shores of the
+Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided to land for a short time,
+and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and Barne were at work among
+the thousands of penguins that abounded, while the naturalists
+wandered further afield in search of specimens. In the center of
+Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members of Borchgrevink's
+party was still found to be standing in very good condition, though
+at the best of times deserted dwellings are far from cheerful to
+contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member of this small party of
+eight, and on the spot he recalled the past, and told of the unhappy
+death of Hanson--one of his comrades.
+
+Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's
+grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder
+containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were told
+to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the following
+year this cylinder was found by the _Morning_,[1] and so the first
+information was given that the _Discovery_ had succeeded in reaching
+these southern regions.
+
+[Footnote 1: The relief ship.]
+
+On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the ship
+again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape Adare
+in the hope of finding
+[Page 44]
+a clear channel near at hand. Very soon, however, the tidal stream
+began to make from the south, and the whole aspect of the streams
+of heavy pack-ice rapidly changed. Almost immediately the pack was
+about the ship, and she was being rapidly borne along with it.
+Across the entrance to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs,
+and it was in this direction that she was being carried. For the
+first time they faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its
+mighty powers. Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around
+them were heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and
+turn as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in
+front of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for
+nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained
+aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room, as
+usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the _Discovery_
+exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in spite of these
+efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost certain that
+she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was one of those
+hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for ever on the memory.
+Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky, its rays were reflected
+from a myriad points of tire glistening pack; behind us lay the
+lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown sun-kissed cliffs of the Cape,
+and the placid glassy waters of the bay; the air about us was almost
+breathlessly still; crisp, clear and sun-lit, it seemed an atmosphere
+in which all Nature should rejoice;
+[Page 45]
+the silence was broken only by the deep panting of our engines
+and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes; yet, beneath
+all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us on to possible
+destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that danger could exist
+in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one paced to and fro on
+the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted our bridge, it was
+difficult to persuade oneself that we were so completely impotent.'
+
+With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually
+on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour was
+early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below, happily
+oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the fact that
+they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely made in
+the _Discovery_, if it could by any conceivable means be avoided.
+
+At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it came
+so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened. Little
+by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked floes fell
+slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the ship began
+to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For me,' Scott
+adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no doubt, a salutary
+one; we were here to fight the elements with their icy weapons,
+and once and for all this taught me not to undervalue the enemy.'
+During the forenoon the ship was within seven or eight miles of
+the high bold coast-line to the south of Cape Adare, but later
+she had to be turned outwards
+[Page 46]
+so that the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could
+be avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the
+land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross
+had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty to
+talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to a brisk
+S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being used.
+
+Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that
+of coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to use
+only one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was saved but
+time was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the _Discovery_
+could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on the 12th she
+scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had increased and
+a heavy swell was coming up from the south.
+
+To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs
+of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as
+they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines
+were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from the
+cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their sledge
+journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as regards
+distance, and what very false appearances distant objects could
+assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that Polar
+explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the evidence of
+their own eyes, and it also explains the errors which the _Discovery_
+expedition found to
+[Page 47]
+have been made by former explorers, and which they knew must have
+been made in all good faith.
+
+During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of
+Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to such
+a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs with
+such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to keep her
+in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon the wind
+force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued to lose ground
+they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the spray over them
+in showers, to freeze as it fell.
+
+Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg they
+were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of another. As
+they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear of its pinnacled
+sides, and they took the shock broad on their bows. It sent the
+ship reeling round, but luckily on the right tack to avoid further
+complications. The following night was dismal enough; again and
+again small bergs appeared through the blinding spray and drift, and
+only with great difficulty could the unmanageable ship be brought
+to clear them. Even gales, however, must have an end, and towards
+morning the wind moderated, and once more they were able to steam
+up close to the island. And there, between two tongues of ice off
+Cape Wadworth, they landed on the steep rocks and erected a staff
+bearing a tin cylinder with a further record of the voyage. By
+the time this had been done the wind had fallen completely, and in
+[Page 48]
+the evening the ship entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and
+the barrier-ice, and later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet
+in the barrier-ice itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered
+spot, and night, as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was
+turned into day so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed
+a terrible desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot
+only to murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow
+with blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity,
+for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals would
+be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and undoubtedly
+the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food.
+
+While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being
+obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out to
+sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told that
+the work was completed, but that some five hours before Wilson,
+Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and that no one
+had thought of picking them up. Although the sun had been shining
+brightly all night, the temperature had been down to 18 deg., and afar
+off Scott could see four disconsolate figures tramping about, and
+trying to keep themselves warm on a detached floe not more than
+fifteen yards across.
+
+When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very
+evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been warmed
+by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences. They
+[Page 49]
+had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when they
+thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that they
+had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they were
+dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson, who
+did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing fire
+with a small pocket magnifying glass--a performance which testified
+not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power of the sun
+in these latitudes.
+
+On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from
+the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in
+the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A
+way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison,
+among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen; across
+the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald, while
+to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform outline
+of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost perfect
+volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no competing
+height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the most magnificent
+landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold, sharp headland,
+projects from the foot of the mountain on its eastern side, and
+finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott decided to turn to the
+south to pass around this cape.
+
+From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting,
+since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically
+unknown. Pack-ice was
+[Page 50]
+still a formidable obstacle, but on the 20th the _Discovery_ pushed
+her way into an inlet where she met ice which had been formed inside
+and but recently broken up. The ice was perfectly smooth, and as
+it showed absolutely no sign of pressure there was no doubting
+that this inlet would make a secure wintering harbor. Already a
+latitude had been reached in which it was most desirable to find
+safe winter quarters for the ship. In England many people had thought
+that Wood Bay would be the most southerly spot where security was
+likely to be found, but Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to
+the south of that place to realize the impossibility of traveling
+along it in sledges, and to convince him that if any advance to
+the south was to be made, a harbor in some higher latitude must
+be found.
+
+This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and
+secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his thankfulness
+that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded as we should
+have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have obtained only the
+most local records of climatic conditions, and our meteorological
+observations would have been comparatively valueless; but the greatest
+drawback would have been that we should be completely cut off from
+traveling over the sea-ice beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It
+is when one remembers how naturally a decision to return to this
+place might have been made, that one sees how easily the results
+of the expedition might have been missed.'
+
+[Page 51]
+It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default
+of a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so
+with Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle
+with the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo
+Sound, and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared
+from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now
+within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their
+winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they
+returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought
+we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal
+in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before
+us lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay
+beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 52]
+CHAPTER III
+
+IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS
+
+  Beholde I see the haven near at hand
+  To which I mean my wearie course to bend;
+  Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land
+  To which afore is fairly to be ken'd.
+  --SPENSER, Faerie Queene.
+
+In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had
+already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A
+coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance,
+and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard to
+its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of mountains;
+and the positions and forms of individual heights, with the curious
+ice formations and the general line of the coast, had been observed.
+In short the map of the Antarctic had already received valuable
+additions, and whatever was to happen in the future that, at any
+rate, was all to the good.
+
+At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the
+westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post
+and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so
+that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing had
+[Page 53]
+been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the center
+of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the sea, and
+here the post was set up and anchored with numerous boulders. In
+spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few hundred yards it
+was almost impossible to distinguish it; but although this small
+post on the side of a vast mountain looked a hopeless clue, it
+eventually brought the _Morning_ into McMurdo Sound.
+
+While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and
+began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set off
+in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and Wilson
+scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of the highest
+of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded by a first view
+of the Great Ice Barrier.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: The immense sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of
+still greater length.]
+
+'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before us in
+the south we were most keenly interested in solving the mysteries
+of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been discussed
+and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on the slender
+foundation of fact which alone the meager information concerning it
+could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary ice-formation
+was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight and the very
+vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to our sense of
+its mystery.'
+
+Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the
+[Page 54]
+ice-face of the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed
+it was arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the
+ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe
+and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four
+hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this
+manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit of
+the barrier was made.
+
+On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they were
+far more eager to gain new information than to prove that old
+information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began to arise
+against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described as 'probably
+higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was known with absolute
+certainty that these mountains did not exist. This error on the part
+of such a trustworthy and cautious observer, Scott ascribes to
+the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the height of the barrier,
+was led to suppose that anything seen over it at a distance must
+be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds, 'whatever the cause, the
+facts show again how deceptive appearances may be and how easily
+errors may arise. In fact, as I have said before, one cannot always
+afford to trust the evidence of one's own eyes.' Though the ship
+was steaming along this ice-wall for several days, the passage was
+not in the least monotonous, because new variations were continually
+showing themselves, and all of them had to be carefully observed and
+recorded. This work continued for several days until, on January
+29, they arrived at a particularly interesting place, to
+[Page 55]
+the southward and eastward of the extreme position reached by Ross
+in 1842. From that position he had reported a strong appearance
+of land to the southeast, and consequently all eyes were directed
+over the icy cliffs in that direction. But although the afternoon
+was bright and clear, nothing from below or from aloft could be
+seen, and the only conclusion to be made was that the report was
+based on yet another optical illusion.
+
+But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report that
+Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations, there was
+on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense of impending
+change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening, and we could not
+fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had not so far encountered
+the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported in this region, and that
+consequently we were now sailing in an open sea into an unknown
+world.'
+
+The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came at
+8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and becoming
+more and more irregular continued in that direction for about five
+miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into the deep bay
+thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached they saw at
+once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot descended
+to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the water, and behind
+it the snow surface rose in long undulating slopes to rounded ridges,
+the heights of which could only be guessed. Whatever doubt remained
+in their minds that this was snow-covered land, a sounding of 100
+fathoms quickly removed it.
+
+[Page 56]
+But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there
+was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy
+outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce
+optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe,
+a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what
+lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the
+fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen,
+and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal that
+two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken
+for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till
+someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all
+glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous,
+until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more definite
+shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at real live
+rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered land.... It is
+curious to reflect now on the steps which led us to the discovery
+of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence which came to us
+before the actual land itself was seen: at first there had been
+the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently rising snow-slopes,
+of which, in the nature of things, one is obliged to retain a doubt;
+then the steeper broken slopes of snow, giving a contrast to convey
+a surer evidence to the eye; and, finally the indubitable land
+itself, but even then surrounded with such mystery as to leave us
+far from complete satisfaction with our discovery.'
+
+[Page 57]
+The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost
+irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them,
+Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back
+along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than
+on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed on
+the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon ascent
+were made. 'The honour,' Scott says, 'of being the first aeronaut to
+make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps somewhat selfishly,
+I chose for myself, and I may further confess that in so doing
+I was contemplating the first ascent I had made in any region,
+and as I swayed about in what appeared a very inadequate basket
+and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures below, I felt
+some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.'
+
+If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut,
+it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the barrier
+surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he discovered
+that instead of the continuous level plain that he had expected,
+it continued in a series of long undulations running approximately
+east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface. Later on, however,
+when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage returned, they reported
+that these undulations were not gradual as had been supposed from
+the balloon, but that the crest of each wave was flattened into a
+long plateau, from which the descent into the succeeding valley
+was comparatively sharp. On the evening of the 4th they put out
+[Page 58]
+to sea again, and on the 8th they were once more in McMurdo Sound,
+with high hopes that they would soon find a sheltered nook in which
+the _Discovery_ could winter safely, and from which the sledge-parties
+could set forth upon the task of exploring the vast new world around
+them.
+
+Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate surroundings,
+and found a little bay which promised so well for the winter that
+Scott's determination to remain in this region was at once strengthened.
+The situation, however, was surrounded with difficulties, for although
+the ice had broken far afield it refused to move out of the small
+bay on which they had looked with such eager eyes; consequently
+they were forced to cling to the outskirts of the bay with their
+ice-anchors, in depths that were too great to allow the large anchors
+to be dropped to the bottom. The weather also was troublesome,
+for after the ship had lain quietly during several hours a sudden
+squall would fling her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting
+the ice-anchors, would ultimately send her adrift.
+
+In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position,
+steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted
+mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in pieces.
+The original intention had been that the _Discovery_ should not
+winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and turn
+northward before the season closed, and for this party a large hut
+had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to keep the
+[Page 59]
+ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be
+made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since
+until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her off
+her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking winter
+quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly convinced that
+the season was closing in. 'With no experience to guide us, our
+opinion could only be based on the very severe and unseasonable
+conditions which we had met with to the east. But now to our
+astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy freezing of the bay;
+the summer seemed to have taken a new lease, and for several weeks
+the fast sea-ice continued to break silently and to pass quietly
+away to the north in large floes.'
+
+In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which
+had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together.
+The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was
+so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot of
+persuasion before the joints would fit.
+
+On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all the
+dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below the
+huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be done,
+and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The hut-building
+is slow work, and much of our time has been taken in securing the
+ship.... Names have been given to the various landmarks in our
+vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be called "Cape Armitage,"
+after our excellent navigator. The sharp hill above it
+[Page 60]
+is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the "Gap," through which
+we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively low level. North
+of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher volcanic peak
+beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet in height. Our
+protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with "Arrival Bay" on
+the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south; above "Arrival
+Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue with breaks for
+about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond which rises the most
+conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a high, precipitous-sided
+rock with a flat top, which has been dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is
+1,350 feet in height.
+
+'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible
+to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton
+is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the
+men run him close.'
+
+On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went out,
+and on their return three days later they were so excited by their
+experiences that some time passed before they could answer the
+questions put to them. Although the temperature had not been severe
+they had nearly got into serious trouble by continuing their march
+in a snowstorm, and when they did stop to camp they were so exhausted
+that frost-bites were innumerable. The tent had been difficult to
+get up, and all sorts of trouble with the novel cooking apparatus
+had followed. 'It is strange now,' Scott wrote three years later,
+'to look back on
+[Page 61]
+these first essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered
+we were by want of experience.'
+
+By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as a
+quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal, had been
+landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and arrangements for
+the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself, were pushed forward.
+The object of this journey was to try and reach the record at Cape
+Crozier over the barrier, and to leave a fresh communication there
+with details of the winter quarters. On the following day, however,
+Scott damaged his right knee while skiing, and had to give up all
+idea of going to Cape Crozier. 'I already foresaw how much there
+was to be learnt if we were to do good sledding work in the spring,
+and to miss such an opportunity of gaining experience was terribly
+trying; however, there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded
+limb and to determine that never again would I be so rash as to
+run hard snow-slopes on ski.'
+
+By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed. The
+party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton and
+Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each pulling
+a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again the want
+of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the lack of system
+was apparent. Though each requirement might have been remembered, all
+were packed in a confused mass, and, to use a sailor's expression,
+'everything was on top and nothing handy.'
+[Page 62]
+Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On looking
+back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so cheaply,
+for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as well as of
+discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our first sledge
+parties left the ship.'
+
+The days following the departure of the sledge party were exceptionally
+fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board the ship woke to
+find the wind blowing from the east; and in the afternoon the wind
+increased, and the air was filled with thick driving snow. This
+Tuesday was destined to be one of the blackest days spent by the
+expedition in the Antarctic, but no suspicion that anything untoward
+had happened to the sledge party arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there
+was a report that four men were walking towards the ship. Then the
+sense of trouble was immediate, and the first disjointed sentences
+of the newcomers were enough to prove that disasters had occurred.
+The men, as they emerged from their thick clothing, were seen to
+be Wild, Weller, Heald and Plumley, but until Scott had called
+Wild, who was the most composed of the party, aside, he could not
+get any idea of what had actually happened, and even Wild was too
+exhausted, and excited to give anything but a meager account.
+
+Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine, In
+charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day had reached
+the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock. In addition, Wild
+told him, to the four who had returned, the party had
+[Page 63]
+consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince. They had thought
+that they were quite close to the ship, and when the blizzard began
+they had left their tents and walked towards her supposed position.
+Then they found themselves on a steep slope and tried to keep close
+together, but it was impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare
+had disappeared, and a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and
+Quartley had left them to try to find out what had become of Evans,
+and neither of them had come back, though they waited. Afterwards
+they had gone on, and had suddenly found themselves at the edge
+of a precipice with the sea below; Vince had shot past over the
+edge. Wild feared all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had
+gone. Could he guide a search party to the scene of the accident?
+He thought he could--at any rate he would like to try.
+
+The information was little enough but it was something on which
+to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought
+until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before 9
+P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party, and
+Armitage took charge of it.
+
+Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was
+known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced.
+On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow,
+and after three days of excessive labour Royds had decided that
+the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but
+unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski
+[Page 64]
+with the party, and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with
+Koettlitz and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge
+of Barne.
+
+The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning
+party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were
+abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the
+top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when
+a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched.
+
+'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch
+little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour
+after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they expected
+each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents bodily away,
+and meanwhile the chill air crept through their leather boots and
+ill-considered clothing, and continually some frost-bitten limb
+had to be nursed back to life.'
+
+At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits,
+but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything
+into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make
+for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant.
+
+'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the
+men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as
+it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance
+than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they
+had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who
+[Page 65]
+had been at the rear of the party, was reported to be missing,
+and soon afterwards Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth
+ice, fell, and shot out of sight immediately.'
+
+Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were,
+sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track. In
+a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a pace
+that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush he had
+time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then his flight was
+arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within a few feet of him.
+They had scarcely exchanged greetings when the figure of Quartley
+came hurtling down upon them from the gloom, for he had started on
+the same track, and had been swept down in the same breathless
+and alarming manner. To return by the way they had come down was
+impossible, and so they decided to descend, but within four paces
+of the spot at which they had been brought to rest, they found
+that the slope ended suddenly in a steep precipice, beyond which
+nothing but clouds of snow could be seen. For some time after this
+they sat huddled together, forlornly hoping that the blinding drift
+would cease, but at last they felt that whatever happened they
+must keep on the move, and groping their way to the right they
+realized that the sea was at their feet, and that they had been
+saved from it by a patch of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff.
+Presently a short break in the storm enabled them to see Castle
+Rock above their heads, and slowly making their way
+[Page 66]
+up the incline, they sought the shelter of a huge boulder; and there,
+crouched together, they remained for several hours.
+
+Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the
+head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls
+of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they felt
+that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain where
+they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the leading
+spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained submitted
+themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him in single file
+as he again struck out in the direction in which they supposed the
+ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for about 500 yards,
+until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath his feet, and far
+below, through the wreathing snow, the sea. He sprang back with
+a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince had flashed past and
+disappeared.
+
+Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at all
+costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just come. All
+of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror, and wondered
+how it had ever been made. They could only hold themselves by the
+soles of their boots, and to slip to their knees meant inevitably
+to slide backwards towards the certain fate below. Literally their
+lives depended on each foothold. Wild alone had a few light nails
+in his boots, and to his great credit he used this advantage to
+give a helping hand in turn to each
+[Page 67]
+of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they did reach
+the top of the slope their troubles were not finished, for they
+were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild, however,
+again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that the party
+eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of snow. 'It
+is little wonder that after such an experience they should have
+been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.'
+
+The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search party
+on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully conscious
+of his inability to help on account of his injured leg, admits
+that he could not think of any further means to render assistance,
+but he says, 'as was always my experience in the _Discovery_, my
+companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon the shrill screams
+of the siren were echoing among the hills, and in ten minutes after
+the suggestion had been made, a whaler was swinging alongside ready
+to search the cliffs on the chance of finding Vince.
+
+But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there
+was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow, and
+fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without,
+and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost--Barne, Evans and
+Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having
+done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search
+was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of seeing
+[Page 68]
+Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be realized
+that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was also no
+disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might have happened.
+Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party were alive to
+tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley heard the
+faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its welcome sound
+made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge party would
+in all probability not have found them. All three of them were
+badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was in such a serious
+condition that for many days it was thought that his fingers would
+have to be amputated.
+
+The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March 13
+Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has happened.
+At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside. At first we
+thought it must be some one who had been for an early walk; but
+it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly, and,
+immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were seen
+streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized the figure
+as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was on board.... We
+soon discovered that though exhausted, weak, and hungry, he was in
+full possession of his faculties and quite free from frost-bites.
+He went placidly off to sleep whilst objecting to the inadequacy
+of a milk diet.'
+
+Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained
+that he had left his companions
+[Page 69]
+to return to the sledges and get some leather boots, and had imagined
+that the others understood what he intended to do. Soon after he had
+started back he was wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that
+he was walking aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered
+was making for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and
+there he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though
+he required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of
+this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on
+raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks,
+and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards
+her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged to
+travel upon his hands and knees.
+
+But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally
+and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate,
+and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing
+to him, and it is something to think that death must have come
+quickly in the grip of that icy sea.'
+
+This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the
+three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when,
+on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The
+others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them were
+soon safely on board.
+
+On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to
+reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until
+it was evident that a better
+[Page 70]
+equipped party with more favorable weather would easily get to
+it. On comparing notes with his party, Scott recognized what a
+difference there might be in the weather conditions of places within
+easy reach of the ship, and not only in temperature but also in
+the force and direction of the wind. It had not occurred to anyone
+that within such a short distance of the ship any large difference
+of temperature was probable, and as the summer was barely over,
+Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton had only taken a light wolf-skin fur
+suit for night-wear. This, however, had proved totally inadequate
+when the thermometer fell to -42 deg., and on the night of the 16th
+uncontrollable paroxysms of shivering had prevented them from getting
+any sleep. The value of proper clothing and the wisdom of being
+prepared for the unexpected rigors of such a fickle climate, were
+two of the lessons learnt from the experiences of the Cape Crozier
+party.
+
+As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether
+the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such an
+advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected state of
+affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of their position
+was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since necessitated the
+extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a heavy gale drove the
+ship from her shelter, steam could only be raised with difficulty
+and after the lapse of many hours. There was, too, the possibility
+that the ship, if once driven off, would not be able to return,
+and so it was obviously unsafe
+[Page 71]
+to send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift
+most of them would be needed.
+
+Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet
+of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological
+screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific
+work which was such an important object of the expedition.
+
+At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort before
+the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a depot
+of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring, but 'a
+more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had not been
+away already a practical insight into the difficulties of sledge
+traveling. But as this party would have to include the majority of
+those on board, he was forced to wait until the ship was firmly
+fixed, and it may be said that the _Discovery_ was as reluctant to
+freeze-in as she was difficult to get out when once the process
+had been completed.
+
+On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The
+sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice should
+become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have completed
+the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am pleased with
+their appearance; the packing is not neat enough, and we haven't
+got anything like a system.'
+
+Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each
+with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads
+were arranged on the theory
+[Page 72]
+of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs. to each dog, but they very
+quickly discovered that the dogs were not going to have anything
+to do with such a theory as this. The best of them would only pull
+about 50 lbs., and some of the others had practically to be pulled.
+
+Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and
+dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner
+of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement
+caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another
+reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing
+their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly
+cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great
+deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or
+two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to
+realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats
+grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled
+down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally
+thick woolly covering.
+
+The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men
+had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had
+no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however,
+was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the
+ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or
+another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing
+to show for our labours. The errors were patent; food, clothing,
+everything was
+[Page 73]
+wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that there would
+have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring, and it
+was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which this
+might be effected.'
+
+But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone
+resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the experience
+that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys subsequently
+made in the spring were largely due to the failures of the autumn.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 74]
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE POLAR WINTER
+
+  The cold ice slept below,
+  Above the cold sky shone,
+    And all around
+    With a chilling sound
+  From caves of ice and fields of snow
+  The breath of night like death did flow
+            Beneath the sinking moon.--SHELLEY.
+
+The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time
+could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by
+the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before
+the daylight vanished.
+
+One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological
+screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds.
+The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100
+yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which,
+with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of
+her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations
+was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition,
+and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded
+every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm
+[Page 75]
+some member of the community had to be on the alert, and every
+other hour to make the rounds of the various instruments. On a
+fine night this was no great hardship, but in stormy weather the
+task was not coveted by anyone. On such occasions it was necessary
+to be prepared to resist the wind and snowdrift, and the round
+itself was often full of exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials
+and tribulations of the meteorological observers were numerous,
+and it was arranged that throughout the winter each officer should
+take it in turn to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6
+A.M. Wilson nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation,
+but the lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides
+taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first
+winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations
+between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M.
+
+The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's
+special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying
+to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general
+reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain
+small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely be
+answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth is
+a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why it is
+a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and obviously
+the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a phenomenon is
+to study it. For many reasons the _Discovery_'s winter station in the
+[Page 76]
+Antarctic was an especially suitable place in which to record the
+phenomenon of magnetism.
+
+Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations
+had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during
+the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little
+company had settled down to a regular round of daily life.
+
+Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for
+the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after;
+during these hours all without exception are busily employed except
+for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would be difficult
+to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the palm would be
+given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough sketch made
+since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and detailed form,
+until we now possess a splendid pictorial representation of the
+whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At home many no doubt will
+remember the horrible depression of spirit that has sometimes been
+pictured as a pendant to the long polar night. We cannot even claim
+to be martyrs in this respect; with plenty of work the days pass
+placidly and cheerfully.'
+
+Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of
+the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were
+to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched
+from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration for
+the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is a
+thing assured. Our little society in the
+[Page 77]
+wardroom is governed by a spirit of good fellowship and patience
+which is all that the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly
+glad to be one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The
+absence of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout
+is beyond even my best expectation.'
+
+This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable
+feature of life during the time spent in the _Discovery_, and the
+only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We shipped
+him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained cook became
+too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly for the worse;
+I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is even worse, he
+is dirty--an unforgivable crime in a cook.'
+
+Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have
+been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather
+was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North
+Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in
+the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm
+days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little
+reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all of
+whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts,
+and to make the best of a long job.
+
+During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each
+day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's work
+ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,' the
+officers doing
+[Page 78]
+their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon the living-spaces
+were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were searched, and while
+the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became a 'snipe marsh.'
+At this time the holds also were cleared up, the bilges pumped
+out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh layer of clean
+snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled by the traffic
+of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands followed, and
+after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the time-honoured one
+of 'Sweethearts and Wives.'
+
+On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer or
+a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be different
+from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30 the decks
+had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and the first
+lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble imitation of
+the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection followed, and
+Scott had the greatest faith in this system of routine, not only
+because it had a most excellent effect on the general discipline and
+cleanliness of the ship, but also because it gave an opportunity
+to raise and discuss each new arrangement that was made to increase
+the comfort of all on board.
+
+After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was prepared
+for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all placed
+according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read the service,
+Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium.
+
+[Page 79]
+Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the
+feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus
+sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should last
+us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of the
+sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that
+we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites
+on Sunday.'
+
+On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the mess-deck
+was decorated with designs in coloured papers and festooned with
+chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes there was
+a great contest to have the best decorations, and some astonishing
+results were achieved with little more than brightly coloured papers,
+a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each table stood a grotesque
+figure or fanciful erection of ice, which was cunningly lighted up
+by candles from within and sent out shafts of sparkling light.
+'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the light-hearted scenes of to-day
+can end the first period of our captivity, what room for doubt
+is there that we shall triumphantly weather the whole term with
+the same general happiness and contentment?'
+
+During the winter months the _South Polar Times_, edited by Shackleton,
+appeared regularly, and was read with interest and amusement by
+everyone. At first it had been decided that each number should
+contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the events and
+meteorological conditions of the past month, some scientifically
+instructive articles dealing with the work
+[Page 80]
+and surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the
+scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures
+and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in
+connection with the _Times_ was that the men contributed as well as
+the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most amusing,
+articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck. But beyond
+all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson, who produced
+drawings that deserved--and ultimately obtained--a far wider
+appreciation than could be given to them in the Antarctic. So great
+was the desire to contribute to the first number of the _S. P. T._
+that the editor's box was crammed with manuscripts by the time
+the date for sending in contributions had arrived. From these there
+was no difficulty in making a selection, but as there was also some
+danger of hurting the feelings of those whose contributions had
+been rejected, a supplementary journal named _The Blizzard_ was
+produced. This publication, however, had but a brief career, for
+in spite of some good caricatures and a very humorous frontispiece
+by Barne, it was so inferior to the _S. P. T._ that even its
+contributors realized that their mission in life did not lie in
+the paths of literary composition. _The Blizzard_, in short, served
+its purpose, and then ceased to exist.
+
+In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable during
+the dark months, the question of artificial light was as difficult as
+it was important. Paraffin had from the first been suggested as the most
+[Page 81]
+suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage being that it is not
+a desirable oil to carry in quantities in a ship. 'Our luckiest
+find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right sort of lamp in which to
+burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic explorer, Captain Egerton,
+presented me with a patent lamp in which the draught is produced
+by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism, and no chimney is needed.
+One can imagine the great mortality there would be in chimneys
+if we were obliged to employ them, so that when, on trial, this
+lamp was found to give an excellent light, others of the same sort
+were purchased, and we now use them exclusively in all parts of
+the ship with extremely satisfactory results.'
+
+There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their reach
+in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain that
+they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic, did
+their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been provided
+for the hut, and which they had not previously thought of using.
+'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was relieved by
+a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue their occupations
+by the single burner placed in each compartment. I lay great stress
+on this, because I am confident that this is in every way the best
+illuminant that can be taken for a Polar winter, and no future
+expedition should fail to supply themselves with it.'
+
+As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to
+be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave
+in his diary a full and
+[Page 82]
+graphic account of the way he occupied himself during his 'night
+on.' 'Each of us has his own way of passing the long, silent hours.
+My own custom is to devote some of it to laundry-work, and I must
+confess I make a very poor fist of it. However, with a bath full
+of hot water, I commence pretty regularly after the ten o'clock
+observation, and labour away until my back aches. There is little
+difficulty with the handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles,
+but when it comes to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready
+to own my incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing
+at the same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff
+which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is
+never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is,
+and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring
+everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no light
+task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to the other;
+then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring until I can wring
+no more; but even so, after it has been hung for a few minutes
+on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin to drip merrily on
+the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh. I shall always have
+a high respect for laundry-work in future, but I do not think it
+can often have to cope with such thick garments as we wear.
+
+'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations.
+The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which are
+scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with tea or
+cocoa and a spirit-lamp.
+[Page 83]
+Everyone has his own ideas as to how sardines should be prepared...
+and I scarcely like to record that there is a small company of
+_gourmets_, who actually wake one another up in order that the
+night-watchman may present his fellow epicures with a small finger
+of buttered toast, on which are poised two sardines "done to a
+turn." The awakened sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts his
+satisfaction, and goes placidly off into dreamland again.
+
+'I find that after my labours at the wash-tub and the pleasing supper
+that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair without
+fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the ever-soothing pipe
+and one's latest demand on the library book-shelves, one settles
+down in great peace and contentment whilst keeping an eye on the
+flying hours, ready to sally forth into the outer darkness at the
+appointed time.
+
+'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely
+dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure,
+but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship,
+the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties, and
+to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with his
+inclination.
+
+'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced
+to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on
+the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious
+that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to
+stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature....
+[Page 84]
+These and many other difficulties in taking observations which may
+be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I think
+we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole whose value
+must stand or fall by attention to detail.'
+
+At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in a
+mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted
+out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in a
+line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice. The
+earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus for
+the next two months they remained in sight. But then another gale
+brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it in the
+neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found to be
+buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no feelings
+of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott ordered the
+snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until the first
+boat had been reached was the true state of affairs revealed. She
+was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which she was nearly
+filled, and though for a moment there was a wild hope that she
+could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the air temperature
+promptly converted the slush into hardened ice, and so she was
+stuck fast.
+
+Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats, because
+as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water would
+have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to worse
+before the summer brought hope with it, parties were
+[Page 85]
+engaged day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in
+the course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger
+was that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats
+so far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and
+after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all
+appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however,
+of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the ship,
+and also the feeling that so much labour must tell in the end, spurred
+on the diggers to renewed vigour, but it was not until December
+that the boats were finally liberated.
+
+Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible
+for an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again emphasized
+the bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the smaller
+compartment of the main hut completing a set of pendulum observations,
+while Royds was in the larger compartment--the hut was used for
+many and various purposes--rehearsing his nigger minstrel troupe.
+Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific work did not go
+hand in hand, or because their work was finished, Bernacchi and
+Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the hut to return
+to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards Royds and his
+troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back, and found that
+the gale had increased and that the whirling snow prevented them
+from seeing anything. Being, however, in such numbers, they were
+able to join hands and sweep along until they caught the guide-rope
+leading to the gangway;
+[Page 86]
+and then as they traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and
+again extending their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton,
+who, having entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting
+on the chance of being heard and rescued.
+
+The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter was not
+only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by guide-ropes and
+other means of direction, which if encountered would have informed
+the wanderers of their position. Additionally Bernacchi and Skelton
+could be trusted to take the most practical course in any difficulty,
+and so it seems the more incredible that they could actually have
+been lost for two hours. Both of them were severely frostbitten
+about the face and legs, but bitter as their experience was it
+served as yet another warning to those who were to go sledding
+in the spring that no risks could be taken in such a capricious
+climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing his troupe on this occasion
+the results to Bernacchi and Skelton must have been more disastrous
+than they were; consequently the idea of using the large hut as
+a place of entertainment was fortunate in more ways than one.
+
+During the first week of May a concert had been given in the hut,
+but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment; for Royds,
+who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had arranged
+a long program with the object of bringing to light any possible
+talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical had to
+confess that most of the performers would have
+[Page 87]
+been less out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability,
+however, was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing
+a play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy,
+was produced on June 25.
+
+This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy
+in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for
+one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been so
+gorgeously entertained.'
+
+Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe, and
+when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30 on August
+6, the temperature outside them was -40 deg., while inside it was well
+below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder that the
+audience was glad when the curtain went up.
+
+'There is no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance,
+'that sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had
+taken an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and
+"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable
+top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling a
+string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs led
+by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the very
+great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.'
+
+So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards
+to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days
+passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return.
+But on that
+[Page 88]
+day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded by whirling
+snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed by a wild
+burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone on board in
+such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be far over the
+hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be seen. The following
+day, however, was an ideal one for the first view of the long-absent
+sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater Hill to watch and welcome.
+'Over all the magnificent view the sunlight spreads with gorgeous
+effect after its long absence; a soft pink envelops the western
+ranges, a brilliant red gold covers the northern sky; to the north
+also each crystal of snow sparkles with reflected light. The sky
+shows every gradation of light and shade; little flakes of golden
+sunlit cloud float against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover
+in the middle heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus
+shades to grey on its unlit sides.'
+
+But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut Point,
+to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no enthusiasm.
+Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual in keeping its
+appointment, but after all they had seen the sun a good many times
+before, and in the next few months they would in all probability
+see it a good many times again, and there was no sense in getting
+excited about it. Some of them did set off at a run for the point,
+while others, since it seemed the right thing to do, followed at
+a walk, but a good
+[Page 89]
+number remained on board and had their dinner. On August 25 the
+Feast of the Sun was duly celebrated, and the days that followed
+were fuller than ever with preparations for the spring journeys. The
+only sewing-machine clattered away all day long, and the whole company
+plied their needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed
+taskmasters. The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the
+best of spirits, was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge
+journeys, and making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind
+and the weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was
+taken to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others,
+and especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons
+the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been
+immense.
+
+In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding
+expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single
+sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made
+in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were
+not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory
+could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of
+time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but
+fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway.
+In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there
+received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was
+not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in
+[Page 90]
+command of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could
+rely to provide the sledding outfit.
+
+In making these preparations for long journeys in the south, there
+was no previous experience to go upon except that which had been
+gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume that southern
+conditions would be more or less similar to those of the north,
+and in so far as they proved different the sledding outfit ran the
+risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in many respects the
+sledding conditions of the south were different from those of the
+north, and so it is only fair to consider the sledge journeys taken
+by the _Discovery_ expedition as pioneer efforts. These differences
+are both climatic and geographical. For instance, the conditions
+in the south are more severe than those in the north, both in the
+lowness of the temperatures and in the distressing frequency of
+blizzards and strong winds. And the geographical difference between
+the work of the northern and the southern sledge-traveler is as
+great as the climatic, if not greater, for the main part of northern
+traveling has been and will be done on sea-ice, while the larger
+part of southern traveling has been and will be done over land
+surfaces, or what in this respect are their equivalents.
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPOT. _Photo by
+Capt. R. F. Scott._]
+
+So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge
+over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate
+maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice,
+that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers
+[Page 91]
+must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later
+on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over
+the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that--given the
+surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge
+parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by
+the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for
+the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions,
+and while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely
+to meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records
+is not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the
+same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled
+are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and
+of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service.
+
+The main differences between the sledges used by the _Discovery_
+expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in
+breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from
+the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's sledges
+were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners themselves
+were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track from side to
+side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths varied from
+12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved to be by far the
+most convenient--a length of 12 feet seeming to pass just beyond
+the limit of handiness.
+
+Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of sledge,
+it will be seen that it differed
+[Page 92]
+considerably from the old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and
+3 feet broad. The weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything
+between 40 and 47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full
+strength of the structure was required. Generally speaking, the
+full load that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most
+important part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must
+be perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily;
+but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood runner
+would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow. 'Some of
+our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000 miles,
+and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.'
+
+In point of numbers the _Discovery_'s crew was far behind the old
+Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott decide,
+in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would do most
+of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest workable
+units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties of at least
+eight, who, having a common tent and cooking arrangements, could
+not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not necessarily to limit the
+number of men in his parties, but to divide them into units of
+three, which should be self-contained, so that whenever it was
+advisable a unit could be detached from the main party. Under such
+a system it is obvious that each unit must have its own tent,
+sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and therein lay a disadvantage,
+as economy of material and weight can
+[Page 93]
+be better carried out with a large unit than with a small one.
+
+The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two headings:
+the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the trip, and
+the consumable, including food, oil, &c. The following is a list
+of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to the west,
+and it will give some idea of the variety of articles, exclusive
+of provisions. The party numbered six.
+
+                                                      lbs.
+  2 Sledges with fittings complete                    130
+    Trace                                               5
+  2 Cookers, pannikins and spoons                      30
+  2 Primus lamps, filled                               10
+  2 Tents complete                                     60
+  2 Spades                                              9
+  2 Sleeping-bags with night-gear                     100
+    Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko[1]      50
+    Medical bag                                         6
+  3 Ice-axes                                            8
+    Bamboos and marks                                  11.5
+    Instruments and camera                             50
+    Alpine rope                                         9
+    Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape,
+      sledge brakes                                    15
+    Ski boots for party                                15
+    Ski for party                                      60
+
+    Total                                             568.5
+
+[Footnote 1: Reindeer-fur boots.]
+
+[Page 94]
+Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his load
+was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total carrying
+capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could be devoted
+to provisions.
+
+Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks' food
+for a party of six, but as such a short period is often not long
+enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled to organize
+means by which their journey can be prolonged. This can be done
+in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the season and lay
+a depot at a considerable distance towards their goal, or they
+may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting party, which
+accompanies them for a certain distance on the road and helps their
+advance party to drag a heavier load than they can accomplish alone.
+
+Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important
+journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship
+for long periods and to travel long distances.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 95]
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY
+
+  Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit
+  To its full height...
+
+                                ...Shew us here
+  That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not.
+  For there is none so mean or base
+  That have not noble lustre in your eyes.
+  I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,
+  Straining upon the start.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been
+turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times the
+advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed.
+This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which
+Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the end
+of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was always
+repugnant to his nature.
+
+'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not
+greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that
+they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death, is
+equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be justified
+by the gain, and I think that logically it may be;
+[Page 96]
+but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob
+sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever
+made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception
+which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships,
+dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and by
+days and weeks of hard physical labour succeed in solving some
+problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest is
+more nobly and splendidly won.'
+
+When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of dogs
+had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained for the
+southern journey, all but one--and he was killed at an earlier
+period--left their bones on the great southern plains. This briefly
+is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances under which they
+met their deaths will be mentioned later on.
+
+[Illustration: SLEDDING.]
+
+Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make a
+short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers
+and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of harness,
+and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large or small
+teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted from September
+2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently with four dogs
+harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if the first team
+got away all right, the others were often keen to play the game
+of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was a positive
+spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two
+[Page 97]
+competing teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural
+result that when they were near enough to see what was happening,
+they decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a
+free fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with
+a mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and
+teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even
+in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results
+showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties,
+and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which
+the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing
+and which the lazy ones.
+
+On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west
+with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott
+wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a glance
+the vast improvement that has been made since last year. The sledges
+were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think of the slovenly
+manner in which we conducted things last autumn; at any rate here
+is a first result of the care and attention of the winter.'
+
+Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following
+day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the
+dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start
+on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17.
+
+On the morning of that day he and his two companions,
+[Page 98]
+Barne and Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams,
+left the ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped
+for lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer
+was down to -43 deg..
+
+The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together
+with a quantity of stores to form a depot, the whole giving a load
+of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined to be only
+a short and bitter experience.
+
+The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were
+so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting
+of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he
+found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of my
+sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed forth
+on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent or my
+companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it could
+mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly awoke
+me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in some
+extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.'
+
+At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding
+snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping
+across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to the
+tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and the
+tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its securing,
+that something had to be done at once to prevent it from blowing
+away altogether.
+[Page 99]
+So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually
+pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it,
+they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while
+they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An
+attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible,
+while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would
+hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then they
+were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once more over
+the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly hanging on
+and warning each other of frostbitten features, their sleeping-bags
+became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were lying in masses
+of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by ceaseless exertions
+so far become masters of the situation, that there was no further
+need for the tent to be held with anything except the weight of
+their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of hands showed a number
+of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had not recovered from
+the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To have hung on to the
+tent through all those hours must have been positive agony to him,
+yet he never uttered a word of complaint.'
+
+By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few hours'
+sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on after this
+most miserable experience was very unwise, since by returning to
+the ship they would only lose one day's march and everything could
+be dried for a fresh start.
+
+[Page 100]
+Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the rest
+of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and were found
+quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On the journey back
+the thermometer recorded -53 deg., and the effect of such a temperature
+upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall remember the condition
+of my trousers for a long while; they might have been cut out of
+sheet iron. It was some time before I could walk with any sort of
+ease, and even when we reached the ship I was conscious of carrying
+an armor plate behind me.... It will certainly be a very long time
+before I go to sleep again in a tent which is not properly secured.'
+
+On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers
+had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain,
+Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding.
+Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and
+to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the
+morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that
+he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the south,
+with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave orders
+to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever turns and
+twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light he could see
+the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the bare ice surface,
+by slight differences in shade, and though he could not see them
+where they dived into the valleys, he found that the bridges were
+strong enough to bear. In
+[Page 101]
+his desire to use the snowy patches as far as possible, the course
+he took was very irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut
+corners. In this manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott
+suddenly heard a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that
+Feather had vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right,
+but their leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that
+the trace had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his
+great relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon
+hauled up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through
+where it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of
+few words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to
+cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt
+that he had a very close call.
+
+After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant to
+give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the four
+sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up and down
+in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing not a single
+thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which it had fallen.
+It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was, but, after some
+consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed that he should
+be let down and undertake the very cold job of unpacking it. So
+he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope, while the other was
+used for hauling up the various packages; and at last the load
+was got up, and the lightened sledge soon followed.
+
+After this incident they thought it prudent to treat these numerous
+crevasses with more respect, and on
+[Page 102]
+proceeding they roped themselves together; but although no more
+mishaps occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute
+this to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day,
+I cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not
+the least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and
+the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion
+can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there
+were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb
+that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."'
+
+The depot, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and 150 lbs.
+of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and besides
+marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful to take
+angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could see.
+Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what was meant
+no longer required any driving. On the homeward march the travelers
+went for all they were worth, and in spite of perpetual fog covered
+eighty-five statute miles in less than three days.
+
+On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most delightful
+place. The sense of having done what he wanted to do had something
+to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but it was the actual
+physical comfort after days of privation that chiefly affected him.
+The joy of possessing the sledding appetite was sheer delight, and
+for many days after the travelers returned from their sledding-trips,
+they retained a hunger which it seemed impossible to satisfy.
+
+[Page 103]
+In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with
+himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all
+his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered
+what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment,
+had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this
+was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy--the disease that
+has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part in
+the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of which
+everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations cannot
+fail to realize.
+
+This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when
+he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's
+medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all
+attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion.
+
+Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but
+the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts,
+and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance
+to break out.
+
+Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything in
+her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party, sent
+out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was given that
+no tinned meat of any description should be issued. By October 20
+this grave disease had to all intents and purposes passed away,
+but although evidence showed that it was
+[Page 104]
+caused by tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best
+quality, and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities,
+there was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble.
+
+This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for
+when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health
+and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on
+the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this
+pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished
+with astonishing rapidity, it was--quite apart from the benefit lost
+to medical science--very annoying not to be able to say definitely
+from what the evil had sprung.
+
+But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated,
+and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence, preparations
+for the various journeys were pushed on with no less vigour and
+enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was nothing really to
+be alarmed about, and everyone played it with the greatest success.
+
+Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party
+would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance
+from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability
+no further depots could be established, it was desirable that this
+party should be supported as far as possible on their route. To
+meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party
+of twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights
+were reduced to an amount
+[Page 105]
+which the dogs could drag without assistance. Then Barne was to
+return to the ship, and after a short rest start again with six
+men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff. As soon as this
+was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal all the men and
+material left in the ship for his attack on the western region.
+
+On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks
+before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned
+with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the
+'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be
+sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had
+a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the
+expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find
+that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately after
+the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and with no
+symptom of the disease.
+
+From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents
+by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased they
+were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in fact one
+tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants could be
+got into the open, while the sledges and everything left outside
+were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated round
+the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of canvas,
+and reduced the interior space to such an extent that those inside
+were obliged to lie with their knees bent double. Royds, whose
+reports were invariably very brief and to
+[Page 106]
+the point, dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page,
+but no great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible
+discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party
+recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were
+scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were
+the amusing incidents that had happened.
+
+On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and
+among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only
+testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery
+on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest
+type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity
+of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to
+face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no small
+satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the habits
+of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all others of
+the feathered tribe.'
+
+Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern
+journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it
+was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne
+and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left a
+few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning, amidst
+a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and employed
+it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles... Barne's
+banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack, and
+[Page 107]
+another carried a flag with a large device stating "_No dogs needs
+apply_"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting sight to
+see nearly the whole of our small company step out on the march
+with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this kind promised
+to be done as heartily.'
+
+And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward
+to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he,
+Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades,
+started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on the
+floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany us
+for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great
+effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in
+spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had
+to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest
+of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all
+tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and
+still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards
+they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out
+to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the
+same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by
+bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott
+camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march.
+
+During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and re-passed
+each other, since it was
+[Page 108]
+impossible for Scott to push on ahead of Barne's party, and the
+latter's progress was very slow, as they could get no hold with
+their fur boots, and they found their ski leather boots dreadfully
+cold for their feet. To add to the slowness of the journey the
+weather was very unfavorable, and the greater parts of the 8th
+and 9th were entirely wasted by a blizzard. On the 10th Depot A,
+that had previously been laid, was reached and Scott wrote: 'Already
+it seems to me that the dogs feel the monotony of a long march over
+the snow more than we do; they seem easily to get dispirited, and
+that it is not due to fatigue is shown when they catch a glimpse
+of anything novel.... To-day, for instance, they required some
+driving until they caught sight of the depot flag, when they gave
+tongue loudly and dashed off as though they barely felt the load
+behind them.'
+
+The names of the dogs were:
+
+  Nigger          Birdie          Wolf
+  Jim             Nell            Vic
+  Spud            Blanco          Bismarck
+  Snatcher        Grannie         Kid
+  Fitzclarence    Lewis           Boss
+  Stripes         Gus             Brownie
+                  Joe
+
+Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern
+party did not already know concerning their individualities, they
+had ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next
+few weeks.
+
+[Page 109]
+Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally for
+himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved so
+unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things, that
+he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could scarcely
+be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move, and in
+camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow being
+shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring up
+and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark
+of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when
+the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every
+movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed
+his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push
+affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come
+along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the evening
+halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks and
+remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting
+on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew
+perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards,
+however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note
+could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if
+disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first
+of all.
+
+Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly
+clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up
+to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at
+pretending to pull;
+[Page 110]
+Spud was generally considered to be daft; Birdie evidently had been
+treated badly in his youth and remained distrustful and suspicious
+to the end; Kid was the most indefatigable worker in the team;
+Wolf's character possessed no redeeming point of any kind, while
+Brownie though a little too genteel for very hard work was charming
+as a pet, and it may also be said of him that he never lost an
+opportunity of using his pleasant appearance and delightful ways
+to lighten his afflictions. The load for this dog team after Depot
+A had been passed was 1,850 lbs., which, considering that some of
+the dogs were of little use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten
+that the men also expected to pull, and that each night the weight
+would be reduced by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers
+were nearly up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south
+than anyone had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused
+great jubilation, and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer
+than fifteen of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the
+record.' A photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then
+half of the supporting party started to return, and the other half
+stepped out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following.
+
+By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned
+back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's
+work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is
+evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme
+toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day....
+[Page 111]
+We have decided that if things have not improved in the morning
+we will take on half a load at a time; after a few days of this
+sort of thing the loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to
+continue in the old way again.'
+
+On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads promptly
+and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to divide the
+load into two portions and take half on at a time. This meant, of
+course, that each mile had to be traveled three times, but there
+was no alternative to this tedious form of advance. Even, however,
+with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost all their spirit,
+and at the end of the march on the 18th they were practically 'done.'
+Only five geographical miles[1] were gained on that day, but to
+do it they had to cover fifteen.
+
+[Footnote 1: 7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute
+miles.]
+
+On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse, and
+it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were eating
+permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had intended
+to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in an unlucky
+moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving to take fish.
+The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such as is split,
+dried and exported from that country in great quantities for human
+food. But one important point was overlooked, namely the probability
+of the fish being affected on passing through the tropics. The
+lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that in future travelers in the
+south should safeguard their
+[Page 112]
+dogs as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was
+the dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours
+in their tent which might have been devoted to marching.
+
+Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the monotony
+of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st, and as the
+prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily disappearing,
+it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and edge towards
+it. Then the surface over which they were traveling showed signs
+of improvement, but the travelers themselves were beginning to
+suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and their eyes were
+also troubling them. Appetites, however, were increasing by leaps
+and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked to on our long marches
+is the prospect of the next meal.'
+
+On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little variation
+in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the first half-load
+one of the three stopped with it, and got up the tent and prepared
+the meal while the other two brought up the second half-load. And
+then on the following day came one of those rewards which was all the
+sweeter because it had been gained by ceaseless and very monotonous
+toil.
+
+'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote,
+'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80 deg. 1'. All our charts of
+the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond the eightieth
+parallel... It has always been our ambition to get inside that white
+[Page 113]
+space, and now we are there the space can no longer be a blank;
+this compensates for a lot of trouble.'
+
+A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so exhausted
+that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather had not
+compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always able to
+foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he invariably
+suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he could not help
+being a very effective barometer.
+
+After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning of
+the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no time
+to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest, and
+there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine of
+relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement in
+the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land in
+hopes of making a depot; so the course was laid to the westward
+of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they
+were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty
+miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day
+has only given us a bare four miles.'
+
+Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work and
+the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that they
+marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was between
+4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp somewhere
+between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested while the
+sun was at its greatest
+[Page 114]
+height; but although there were certainly advantages in this, Scott
+could not get rid of a curious feeling that something was amiss
+with such a topsy-turvy method of procedure.
+
+By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out some
+of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of mountains,
+which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at least fifty miles
+away. By far the nearest point of land was an isolated snow-cape,
+an immense, and almost dome-shaped, snow-covered mass. At first
+no rock at all could be seen on it, but as they got nearer a few
+patches began to appear. For one of these patches they decided
+to make so that they might establish a depot, but at the rate at
+which they were traveling there was little hope of reaching it
+for several days.
+
+By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that when
+the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin, and both
+smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But what saddened
+them more than this taste of paraffin was the discovery, on December
+5, that their oil was going too fast. A gallon was to have lasted
+twelve days, but on investigation it was found on an average to
+have lasted only ten, which meant that in the future each gallon
+would have to last a fortnight. 'This is a distinct blow, as we
+shall have to sacrifice our hot luncheon meal and to economize
+greatly at both the others. We started the new routine to-night,
+and for lunch ate some frozen seal-meat and our allowance of sugar
+and biscuit.'
+
+[Page 115]
+It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was
+not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when
+the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional
+discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when
+Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's
+balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his
+hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance
+of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his
+gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort
+from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was
+a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and
+on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily going
+downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than counter-balanced
+by the weakening of the animals, and I can see no time in which
+we can hope to get the sledges along without pulling ourselves.'
+
+By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast,
+but so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and
+even supposing they did get there and make a depot, they doubted
+very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog,
+Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been got
+to move with the second load by the ignominious device of carrying
+food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was agony to those
+who had to drive and coax them on, and though Scott refers often
+in these days to the hunger that was nipping him,
+[Page 116]
+no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely more he
+was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about his own
+troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.'
+
+At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost spent,
+at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march they had
+only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous exertions,
+for the snow became softer as they approached the land, and the
+sledge-runners sank from three to four inches. On any particularly
+soft patch they could do little more than mark time, and even to
+advance a yard was an achievement.
+
+No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions
+and a quantity of dog-food in Depot B and had resumed their march,
+sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know how
+to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay
+work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst
+I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more, I
+am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare,
+which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief
+was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs
+were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment
+have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced,
+and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise to
+push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer was
+that the risk
+[Page 117]
+of going on should be taken, but on that same night Wilson, in view
+of future plans, reported to Scott that his medical examinations
+revealed that Shackleton had decidedly angry-looking gums, and that
+for some time they had been slowly but surely getting worse. It
+was decided not to tell Shackleton of these symptoms of scurvy,
+and as the bacon they were using seemed likely to be the cause of
+them, it was discarded and an increased allowance of seal given
+in its place. This was a loss in weight which was serious, for
+already they were reduced almost to starvation rations of about
+a pound and a half a day.
+
+Supper was the best meal, for then they had a _hoosh_ which ran
+from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but even
+this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being heated
+in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but the lamp
+was turned out directly the _hoosh_ boiled, and by that time the
+chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker. Of course
+the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were long past
+criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted was something
+to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got it. Half an hour
+after supper was over they were as hungry as ever.
+
+When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea
+that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience
+showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid system
+of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to divide
+[Page 118]
+things into three equal portions, and as the man who made the division
+felt called upon to take the smallest share, the game of 'shut-eye'
+was invented to stop all arguments and remonstrances. The shares
+were divided as equally as possible by someone, then one of the
+other two turned his head away and the divider pointed to a portion
+and said, 'Whose is this?' He of the averted head named the owner,
+and thus this simple but useful game was played.
+
+Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not encouraging,
+but they had reached a much harder surface and under those conditions
+Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet time to say 'Turn.'
+Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them, and for a week they
+had all agreed that it would be a crime to go to bed hungry on that
+night. In fact they meant it to be a wonderful day, and everything
+conspired to make it so.
+
+The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of
+wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as the
+scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for once
+they were going to have a really substantial breakfast, and this
+was an irresistible counter-attraction.
+
+And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than
+they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better
+that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs.
+On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven
+miles, the longest march they had made for a long
+[Page 119]
+time. So when camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with
+the day, and ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered.
+A double 'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot,
+and in the _hoosh_ that followed a spoon would stand without any
+support, and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point.
+
+'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is still
+circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is warm and
+quiet. All is pleasant without, and within we have a sense of comfort
+we have not known for many a day; we shall sleep well tonight--no
+dreams, no tightening of the belt.
+
+'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the conversation
+turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas is like in
+England... and how our friends picture us. They will guess that
+we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps think of us
+on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the truth, that
+for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 120]
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE RETURN
+
+        How many weary steps
+  Of many weary miles you have o'ergone,
+  Are numbered to the travel of one mile.
+    SHAKESPEARE.
+
+Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day wore
+off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise uninterrupted
+spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered long after
+hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this time they
+knew that they had cut themselves too short in the matter of food,
+but the only possible alteration that could now be made in their
+arrangements was to curtail their journey, and rather than do that
+they were ready cheerfully to face the distress of having an enormous
+appetite, and very little with which to appease it.
+
+Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the
+ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing
+weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a greater
+rate than they could renew them, and that the additional
+[Page 121]
+weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would have
+been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength and
+vigour.
+
+Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another
+disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it was
+impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before
+they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would
+give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast,
+while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps
+went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced before
+another meal.
+
+But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could
+eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping
+up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental
+and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they knew
+that they were penetrating farther and farther into the unknown.
+Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their labours more
+assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving sledge-meter
+or looked for the calculated results of their observations, it
+is not surprising that above all the desires for food was an
+irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to extend the line
+which they were now drawing on the white space of the Antarctic
+chart.
+
+Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land was
+passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without the disclosure
+of some new
+[Page 122]
+feature, something on which the eye of man had never rested; we
+should have been poor souls indeed had we not been elated at the
+privilege of being the first to gaze on these splendid scenes.'
+
+From the point of view of further exploration their position on
+December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high undulating
+snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the south lay a cape
+beyond which they could not hope to pass, and to all appearances
+these conditions were likely to remain to the end of their journey.
+But on that night they had christened a distant and lofty peak
+'Mount Longstaff,' in honour of the man whose generosity had alone
+made the expedition possible, and although they thought that this
+was the most southerly land to which they would be able to give a
+name, they were in no mood to turn back because the outlook was
+unpromising. Arguing on the principle that it was impossible to tell
+what may turn up, they all decided to push on; and their decision was
+wise, for had they returned at that point one of the most important
+features of the whole coast-line would have been missed.
+
+On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness,
+which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott had
+remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry: 'When
+it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days he will
+spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent sketching
+each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene to the west.
+His sketches
+[Page 123]
+are most astonishingly accurate; I have tested his proportions by
+actual angular measurements and found them correct.... But these
+long hours in the glare are very bad for the eyes; we have all
+suffered a good deal from snow-blindness of late, though we generally
+march with goggles, but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear
+it is mainly due to his sketching.'
+
+The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than anything
+that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th Wilson was
+pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely covered.
+To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch the bottom
+of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest intention
+of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and telling him
+of the changes that were happening around them he plodded steadily
+on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it happened that a most
+glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed itself. With some
+excitement Scott noticed that new mountain ridges were appearing
+as high as anything they had seen to the north, and his excitement
+increased when these ridges grew higher and higher. Then, instead
+of a downward turn in the distant outline came a steep upward line,
+and as they pressed on apace to see what would happen next, Scott
+did his best to keep Wilson posted up in the latest details. The
+end came in a gloriously sharp double peak crowned with a few flecks
+of cirrus cloud, and all they could think of in camp that night
+was this splendid twin-peaked mountain, which even in such
+[Page 124]
+a lofty country looked like a giant among pigmies. 'At last we
+have found something which is fitting to bear the name of him whom
+we must always the most delight to honour, and "Mount Markham"
+it shall be called in memory of the father of the expedition.'
+
+Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss
+this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to
+be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect
+view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the limit
+of their journey would be reached, and that they would have but
+few more opportunities to increase their stock of information.
+
+After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most
+interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags,
+full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead
+of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the tent
+while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when they
+got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped
+in a thick fog.
+
+Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their
+last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached.
+Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though
+this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped for
+when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he anticipated
+when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says, 'one cannot help
+a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting on the "might have been"
+[Page 125]
+had our team remained in good health, one cannot but remember that
+even as it is we have made a greater advance towards a pole of
+the earth than has ever yet been achieved by a sledge party.'
+
+With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Depot
+B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year,
+and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving
+dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many
+of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but
+those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had
+of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to the
+suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely he
+felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January 3.
+This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite played
+out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid" caved
+in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled like
+a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him up till
+his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team now remained,
+and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but Nigger, though
+weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But at the end of
+a week on the return journey, all of the remaining dogs were asked
+to do nothing except walk by the sledges.
+
+For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered
+ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling was as
+nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer having to drive
+[Page 126]
+a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering and dragging in
+front would be needed, no more tangled traces would have to be
+put straight, and above all there would be no more whip. So far
+steady though rather slow progress had been made, but January 8
+brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they would the sledge could
+scarcely be made to move, and after three hours of the hardest
+work only a mile and a quarter had been gained. Sadly they were
+compelled to admit that the surface had so completely changed that
+the only thing to do was to remain in camp until it improved. But
+whether it would improve was an anxious matter, for they had less
+than a week's provisions and were at least fifty miles from Depot B.
+
+The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and a
+fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were left,
+Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost out
+of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and marched
+along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling. But this
+more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by a march in
+a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had even a more
+serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind them they
+had gained many miles, but the march had tired them out, because
+instead of the steady pulling to which they were accustomed they
+had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes to pull forwards,
+backwards, sideways, and always with their senses keenly alert
+and their muscles strung up for instant action.
+
+[Page 127]
+On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote: 'We
+cannot now be far from our depot, but then we do not exactly know
+where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if this thick
+weather continues we shall probably not be able to find it.' And
+after two more days of bad surface and thick weather he wrote again:
+'There is no doubt we are approaching a very critical time. The
+depot is a very small spot on a very big ocean of snow; with luck
+one might see it at a mile and a half or two miles, and fortune
+may direct our course within this radius of it; but, on the other
+hand, it is impossible not to contemplate the ease with which such
+a small spot can be missed.... The annoying thing is that one good
+clear sight of the land would solve all our difficulties.'
+
+At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever.
+Three hours' incessant labour had gained only three-quarters of a
+mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag was a
+mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that remained
+in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But later on Scott
+caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and tumbled hastily out of
+his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining a meridional altitude;
+and after getting the very best result he could under the very
+difficult conditions prevailing, he casually lowered the telescope
+and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly a speck seemed to flash
+by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose. Then he brought the
+telescope slowly back, and there it was again, and accompanied this
+[Page 128]
+time by two smaller specks on either side of it. Without a shadow
+of doubt it was the depot which meant the means of life to them.
+'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's the depot." We are not
+a demonstrative party, but I think we excused ourselves for the
+wild cheer that greeted this announcement.'
+
+In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though
+the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different
+mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as
+possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten
+as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they were
+going to have the fat _hoosh_ which would once more give them an
+internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the depot,
+and there they found everything as they had left it.
+
+On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver from
+the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by the fat
+_hoosh_ of their dreams they completed the comparison between the
+two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners. Having
+equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the sledges
+round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely move the
+metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other.
+
+Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only
+about 130 miles to cover to their next depot, a full three weeks'
+provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood runners,
+they went to bed
+[Page 129]
+feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been lifted. The chief
+cause of worry left was the question of health, and the result
+of a thorough medical examination on the morning of the 14th did
+nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found to be very far indeed
+from well, but although Scott and Wilson both showed symptoms of
+scurvy they still felt that, as far as they were concerned, there
+was no danger of a breakdown.
+
+On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of it
+Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really
+alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but
+we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse;
+now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be
+sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it had
+to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning.
+
+'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his restless,
+energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night I have
+talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work, but
+to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must be
+devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck to
+bring him through.'
+
+With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic
+story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors
+of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the
+camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through our
+most troublous time we always looked forward to getting
+[Page 130]
+some of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then
+seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should
+be able to bring back these two.'
+
+During the part of the return journey which was now beginning,
+they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that it
+resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick companion.
+The weather also added to their troubles, because it was so overcast
+that steering was extremely difficult. For nearly ten consecutive
+days this gloomy weather continued to harass them, but on the 20th
+it cleared as they were on their march, and on the following day
+with a brisk southerly breeze and their sail set they traveled
+along at a fine rate. The state of Shackleton's health was still
+a source of acutest anxiety, but each march brought safety nearer
+and nearer, and on the 23rd Scott was able to write in a much more
+hopeful spirit. Next day a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was
+seen, but this encouraging sight was accompanied by a new form
+of surface which made the pulling very wearisome. An inch or so
+beneath the soft snow surface was a thin crust, almost, but not
+quite, sufficient to bear their weight. The work of breaking such
+a surface as this would, Scott says, have finished Shackleton in
+no time, but luckily he was able to go on ski and avoid the jars.
+'In spite of our present disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess
+that if we get back safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair
+he is now using.'
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT EREBUS.]
+
+[Page 131]
+But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott and
+Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to chance,
+and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition would
+allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off and got
+well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and after lunch
+the same procedure was adopted. By this means he was able to take
+things easily, and though eager to do his share of the work he
+was wise enough to see that every precaution taken was absolutely
+necessary.
+
+Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between,
+but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered them
+to think that they had seen something that was actually beyond the
+ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away, but they
+had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance that they
+were not in the least astonished by this.
+
+January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on as usual
+the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon afterwards
+discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no doubt that
+the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey work to the
+west, but it was wonderful what that track told them. They could
+see that there had been six men with two sledges, and that all of
+the former had been going strong and well on ski. From the state
+of the track this party had evidently passed about four days before
+on the homeward route, and from
+[Page 132]
+the zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must
+have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added
+some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study.
+But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne and
+his party were safe, and this after their own experiences was a
+great relief.
+
+Another day and a half of labour brought them to the depot, and
+the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our tent
+was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish
+glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil enough
+for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have lasted
+us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag which
+we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just opened
+this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents. There
+are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup squares,
+pea soup, and many other delights that already make our mouths
+water. For each one of us there is some special trifle which the
+forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being an extra
+packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are a whole heap
+of folded letters and notes--_billets-doux_ indeed. I wonder if
+a mail was ever more acceptable.'
+
+The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labour, had succeeded
+in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's
+egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal
+itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an
+[Page 133]
+unqualified success, for after being accustomed to starvation or
+semi-starvation rations, they were in no condition either to resist
+or to digest any unstinted meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered
+acutely.
+
+On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and the first
+thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned when Shackleton
+was found to be extremely ill. Everything now depended upon the
+weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott doubted if Shackleton
+would even be well enough to be carried on the sledge. 'It is a
+great disappointment; last night we thought ourselves out of the
+wood with all our troubles behind us, and to-night matters seem
+worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are pretty fit, and we have
+lots of food.' By great luck the weather cleared on the morning
+of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a very bad night revived a
+little it was felt that the only chance was to go on. 'At last
+he was got away, and we watched him almost tottering along with
+frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our provisions, in half an hour
+we had packed our camp, set our sail, and started with the sledges.
+It was not long before we caught our invalid, who was so exhausted
+that we thought it wiser he should sit on the sledges, where for
+the remainder of the forenoon, with the help of our sail, we carried
+him.'
+
+In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the blizzard,
+but fortune favored them during the last stages of the struggle
+homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful effect upon the
+[Page 134]
+sick man. By the night of February 2 they were within ten or twelve
+miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of a successful end to their
+troubles. During the afternoon they had passed round the corner
+of White Island, and as they did so the old familiar outline of the
+friendly peninsula suddenly opened up before them. On every side
+were suggestions of home, and their joy at seeing the well-known
+landmarks was increased by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent
+as three persons can well be.'
+
+Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his
+companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew
+how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And both
+Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been advancing
+rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to themselves or
+each other how 'done' they were. For many a day Wilson had suffered
+from lameness, and each morning had vainly tried to disguise his
+limp, but from his set face Scott knew well enough how much he
+suffered before the first stiffness wore off. 'As for myself, for
+some time I have hurried through the task of changing my foot-gear
+in an attempt to forget that my ankles are considerably swollen.
+One and all we want rest and peace, and, all being well, tomorrow,
+thank Heaven, we shall get them.'
+
+These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during this
+remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up their camp
+for the last time and set their faces towards Observation Hill.
+[Page 135]
+Brilliant weather still continued, and after plodding on for some
+hours two specks appeared, which at first were thought to be penguins,
+but presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them. Early in the
+morning they had been reported by watchers on the hills, and Skelton
+and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them.
+
+Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened to
+a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other travelers
+returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but the relief
+ship, the _Morning_, had also arrived and brought a whole year's
+news.
+
+So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed,
+they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from
+December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts
+busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved
+ship.
+
+Though still held fast in her icy prison the _Discovery_ looked
+trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion
+a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while
+as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with
+their cheering comrades.
+
+With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their
+shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them,
+no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time
+it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to
+be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended,
+[Page 136]
+and that rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three
+days they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the
+fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered 960
+statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the beginning
+had not been completely achieved, they knew at any rate that they
+had striven and endured to the limit of their powers.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 137]
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A SECOND WINTER
+
+  As cold waters to a thirsty soul,
+  So is good news from a far country.
+    PROVERBS.
+
+In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources
+of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his absence,
+and that parties had been going and coming and ever adding to the
+collection of knowledge.
+
+On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how the
+Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid progress
+had been made in the preparations for the western party that November
+9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a general holiday
+and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic sports.
+
+Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the
+toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple
+had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no
+sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start
+was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the
+[Page 138]
+queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number
+were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something of
+a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate
+arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from the
+same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what
+was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion
+secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race was
+considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start it was
+seen that this couple had laboured in vain; for although they shot
+ahead at first, their speed was so great that they could not control
+their machine. In a moment they were rolling head-over-heels in
+clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus amusing itself a tortoise
+slid past and won the race.
+
+By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey,
+and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound and
+attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton and ten
+men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar, Dellbridge
+and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage and his party
+during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt a practicable
+road to the interior was discovered and traversed, and the barrier
+of mountains that had seemed so formidable an obstruction from the
+ship was conquered. It was equally certain that the party could
+claim to be the first to set foot on the interior of Victoria Land
+but they had been forced to turn back at an extremely
+[Page 139]
+interesting point, and in consequence were unable to supply very
+definite information with regard to the ice-cap. They had, however,
+fulfilled their main object, and in doing so had disclosed problems
+that caused the deepest interest to be focussed upon the direction
+in which they had traveled.
+
+Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among the
+rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits. These,
+with other observations, showed the strong probability of the existence
+of sedimentary deposits which might be reached and examined, and
+which alone could serve to reveal the geological history of this
+great southern continent. At all hazards Scott determined that
+the geologist of the expedition must be given a chance to explore
+this most interesting region.
+
+The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically
+stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on
+shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that
+remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by resorting
+to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful expeditions.
+
+While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the ship
+was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on board
+in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic measures
+had to be taken before they could be released from their beds of
+ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen depths,
+it was not possible
+[Page 140]
+that the task could be accomplished without doing considerable
+damage. When at length all of them had been brought to the surface
+their condition was exceedingly dilapidated; indeed only two of
+them were in a condition to float; but although it was evident
+that the carpenter would be busy for many weeks before they would
+be seaworthy, their reappearance was a tremendous relief.
+
+Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions
+that the _Discovery_ should be prepared for sea by the end of January.
+Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there was still plenty
+of employment for everybody, since 'preparations for sea' under
+such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount of labour. Tons
+and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck with pick-axes
+and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes had to be looked
+to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything got ready for
+handling the ship under sail; many things that had been displaced
+or landed near the shore-station had to be brought on board and
+secured in position; thirty tons of ice had to be fetched, melted,
+and run into the boilers; below, steam-pipes had to be rejointed,
+glands re-packed, engines turned by hand, and steam raised to see
+that all was in working order.
+
+Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship,
+this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern travelers
+returned all was ready for them to put to sea again.
+
+[Page 141]
+But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back to
+safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival
+of the _Morning_. How the funds were raised by means of which this
+ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was due to
+the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir Clements
+Markham that the _Morning_, commanded by Lieutenant William Colbeck,
+R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on July 9, 1902.
+
+Long before the _Discovery_ had left New Zealand the idea of a
+relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great
+difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if the
+thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it. Obviously
+then it was desirable to leave as much information as possible
+on the track, and the relief ship was to try and pick up clues
+at the places where Scott had said that he would attempt to leave
+them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession Islands, Coulman
+Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape Crozier.
+
+On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there Colbeck
+heard of the _Discovery's_ safe arrival in the south. The Possession
+Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been able to land
+there, and south of this the whole coast was so thickly packed that
+the _Morning_ could not approach either Coulman Island or Wood
+Bay.
+
+Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but
+[Page 142]
+without result; and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not
+until four days later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck
+himself joined the landing party, and after spending several hours
+in fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning
+despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly a
+small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it, and
+in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into the
+mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the _Discovery_, and
+practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do.
+
+On board the _Discovery_ the idea had steadily grown that a relief
+ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had begun to
+look upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of January
+it was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke had
+been seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally
+received without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down
+the hill on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a
+ship in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable
+of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early
+on the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The _Morning_
+was lying some ten miles north of the _Discovery_, but it was far
+easier to see her than to reach her. At last, however, the party,
+after various little adventures, stood safely on deck and received
+the warmest of welcomes.
+
+During the last week of January the weather was
+[Page 143]
+in its most glorious mood, and with some of the treacherous thin
+ice breaking away the _Morning_ was able to get a mile nearer.
+Parties constantly passed to and fro between the two ships, and
+everyone--with unshaken confidence that the _Discovery_ would soon
+be free--gave themselves up to the delight of fresh companionship,
+and the joy of good news from the home country. To this scene of
+festivity and cheeriness Scott, Wilson and Shackleton returned on
+February 3, and though the last to open their letters they had
+the satisfaction of knowing that the _Morning_ had brought nothing
+but good news.
+
+By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern
+party's return to make his first visit to the _Discovery_, and soon
+after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was reveling in
+the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of welcoming him
+on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,' Scott says,
+'I had little expected that the first feast in our home quarters
+would be taken with strange faces gathered round our festive table,
+but so it was, and I can well remember the look of astonishment
+that dawned on those faces when we gradually displayed our power
+of absorbing food.'
+
+But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease,
+for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition
+was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although
+he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused
+a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from
+[Page 144]
+the violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the
+journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs
+of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that
+on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained
+quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is a
+very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern
+journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this
+collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the
+determination which must have upheld him during the last marches.
+
+Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no means
+fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were very
+uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was attacked
+by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental weariness.
+'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse myself from this
+slothful humour, and it was many weeks before I had returned to
+a normally vigorous condition. It was probably this exceptionally
+relaxed state of health that made me so slow to realize that the
+ice conditions were very different from what they had been in the
+previous season.... The prospect of the ice about us remaining fast
+throughout the season never once entered my head.' His diary, however,
+for the month shows how he gradually awakened to the true state of
+affairs, and on February 13 he decided to begin the transport of
+stores from the _Morning_ to the _Discovery_, so that the former
+ship 'should run no risk of being detained.' And on the 18th when
+[Page 145]
+he paid his first visit to the _Morning_ and found the journey
+'an awful grind,' he had begun to wonder whether the floe was ever
+going to break up.
+
+[Illustration: LUNAR CORONA.]
+
+A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The _Morning_
+must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that we
+shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up may
+come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had decided
+that if they had to remain the ship's company should be reduced,
+and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told them that he
+wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing. On the following
+day a list was sent round for the names of those who wanted to go,
+and the result was curiously satisfactory--for Scott had determined
+that eight men should go, and not only were there eight names on
+the list, but they were also precisely those which Scott would
+have put there had he made the selection. Shackleton also had to
+be told that he must go, as in his state of health Scott did not
+think that any further hardships ought to be risked; but in his
+place Scott requisitioned Mulock who by an extraordinary chance
+is just the very man we wanted. We have now an immense amount of
+details for charts... and Mulock is excellent at this work and as
+keen as possible. It is rather amusing, as he is the only person
+who is obviously longing for the ice to stop in, though of course
+he doesn't say so. The other sporting characters are still giving
+ten to one that it will go out, but I am bound to confess that
+I am not sanguine.'
+
+[Page 146]
+The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on February
+16, and before the end of the month all hope of the _Discovery_
+being able to leave with the _Morning_ had been abandoned. On March
+2 nearly the whole of the _Discovery's_ company were entertained
+on board the _Morning_, and on the following day the relief ship
+slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few minutes she was
+turning to the north, with every rope and spar outlined against
+the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was raised as she gathered
+way, and long after she had passed out of earshot the little band
+stood gazing at her receding hull, and wondering when they too
+would be able to take the northern track.
+
+In the _Morning_ went a letter from Scott which shows that although
+in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain for
+another winter, both he and his companions were not by any means
+dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen on getting
+a look round C. North before making for home. However we all take
+it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and contented on board,
+and shall have lots to do in winter, spring and summer. We will
+have a jolly good try to free the ship next year, though I fear
+manual labour doesn't go far with such terribly heavy ice as we
+have here; but this year we were of course unprepared, and when
+we realized the situation it was too late to begin anything like
+extensive operations. I can rely on every single man that remains
+in the ship and I gave them all the option of leaving...
+[Page 147]
+the ship's company is now practically naval-officers and men--it
+is rather queer when one looks back to the original gift of two
+officers.'
+
+Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and
+fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry;
+at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly
+before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away at
+the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.'
+
+But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers
+not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those who
+were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and Bernacchi
+are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise, and for the
+manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition the greatest
+admiration is expressed. But in some way or other Scott discovered
+good points in all the officers he mentioned, and if they were
+not satisfactory in every way his object seemed to be rather to
+excuse than to blame them. He was, however, unaffectedly glad to
+see the last of the cook, for the latter had shown himself far
+more capable at talking than at cooking, and had related so many
+of his wonderful adventures that one of the sailors reckoned that
+the sum total of these thrilling experiences must have extended
+over a period of five hundred and ninety years--which, as the sailor
+said, was a fair age even for a cook.
+
+By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled
+to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given
+to prepare the
+[Page 148]
+ship for it. Compared with the previous year the weather had been
+a great deal worse, for there had been more wind and much lower
+temperatures, and under such conditions it was hopeless to go on
+expecting the ice to break up. But it was not to be wondered at
+that they found themselves wondering what their imprisonment meant.
+Was it the present summer or the last that was the exception? For
+them this was the gravest question, since on the answer to it their
+chance of getting away next year, or at all, depended.
+
+While, however, the situation as regards the future was not altogether
+without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the best of the
+present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was determined to
+keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout the winter, and
+consequently a great number of seals and skuas had to be killed.
+At first the skua had been regarded as unfit for human food, but
+Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in a noose and promptly
+put it into the pot. And the result was so satisfactory that the
+skua at once began to figure prominently on the menu. They had,
+however, to deplore the absence of penguins from their winter diet,
+because none had been seen near the ship for a long time.
+
+On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon
+this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would be
+agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but otherwise
+we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work;
+[Page 149]
+we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in
+lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of
+light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended
+with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball furiously
+driven by Royds.'
+
+Of the months that followed little need be said, except that Scott's
+anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter passed by
+without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found them even
+more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to work away
+with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who had been
+trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities for the work,
+was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking all the
+observations, and later on in constructing temporary charts; while
+Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent many a day at
+his distant sounding holes.
+
+Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was
+carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while many
+new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in serviceable
+work that when the second long Polar night ended, Scott was able to
+write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board the _Discovery_ who
+would say that it has been a hardship.... All thoughts are turned
+towards the work that lies before us, and it would be difficult to
+be blind to the possible extent of its usefulness. Each day has
+brought it more home to us how little we know and how much there
+is to be learned, and we
+[Page 150]
+realize fully that this second year's work may more than double
+the value of our observations. Life in these regions has lost any
+terror it ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may,
+we can live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years
+to come.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 151]
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE WESTERN JOURNEY
+
+  Path of advance! but it leads
+  A long steep journey through sunk
+  Gorges, o'er mountains in snow.--M. ARNOLD.
+
+During the second winter much time and attention had to be given
+to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it
+that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But in
+spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season was
+bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an inferior
+quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were blackened
+with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many places; the
+cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear; the wind
+clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small bags, which
+were required for provisions, they were obliged to fall back on any
+sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This state of things,
+however, was very far from daunting their spirits, and long before
+the winter was over the plan of campaign for the next season had
+been drawn up.
+
+In making the program Scott knew that extended
+[Page 152]
+journeys could only be made by properly supported parties, and it
+was easy to see that his small company would not be able to make
+more than two supported journeys, though it might be just possible
+to make a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The
+next thing to decide was in what direction these parties should
+go, and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay
+in the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point
+of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must, Scott
+determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey to the
+west he decided to lead himself.
+
+In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope
+to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had
+been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many
+problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary straits
+that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges without rising
+in level. It was therefore with the main object of exploring one
+of them that the second supported party, under the leadership of
+Barne and Mulock, was to set out.
+
+The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported
+party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask
+Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on
+a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this
+question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and decided
+that the only way to get it was to go and see.
+
+[Illustration: PINNACLED ICE AT MOUTH OF FERRAR GLACIER. _Photo
+by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: PRESSURE RIDGES NORTH SIDE OF DISCOVERY BLUFF. _Photo
+by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Page 153]
+Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of shorter
+ones for specific purposes, and the most important of these were
+the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery, as it was hoped
+that Wilson would be able to observe these birds from the beginning
+of their breeding season.
+
+Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding
+arrangements, for although the _Discovery_ was mainly at the mercy
+of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything man could
+do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as they could
+hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet around them,
+the whole force of the company was to set to work at the task of
+extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to start in time
+to assure their return to the ship by the middle of December.
+
+On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton, Dailey,
+Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find a new road to
+the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a depot ready for a greater
+effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier descends gradually
+to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor, but Armitage had
+reported most adversely on this inlet as a route for sledges, and
+in conducting his own party had led it across the high foot-hills.
+As yet Scott had not been to this region, but in the nature of
+things he could not help thinking that some practical route must
+exist up the New Harbour inlet, and that if it could be found the
+journey to the west would be much easier. And the result of this
+little journey
+[Page 154]
+was really important, for whereas Armitage, at the foot of the
+Ferrar Glacier, had seen the disturbance on the south side, and
+had concluded that it must extend right across, Scott's party
+fortunately pushed over this disturbance and found much easier
+conditions beyond it.
+
+The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further
+observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where
+glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be
+found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will
+be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course,
+is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in the
+north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall on
+the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part of
+the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice disturbance
+is caused.
+
+Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a depot at a spot
+which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back again
+at the ship in less than a fortnight.
+
+'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied;
+we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done
+a record march, and we had endured record temperatures--at least,
+we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to tell
+these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached the
+ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first question
+was, "What temperatures
+[Page 155]
+have you had?" We replied by complacently quoting our array of
+_minus_ fifties, but he quickly cut us short by remarking that we
+were not in it.'
+
+In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap throughout
+the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they had been laying
+a depot, had the coldest time, and after their thermometer had
+fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke at -67.7 deg.. Royds
+and his party also had to endure -62 deg., but in other respects they
+were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier they found that the
+Emperor penguins had already hatched out their young, and Wilson
+was delighted to get the opportunity of studying the chicks at
+such a tender age. Commenting upon this and another journey to
+Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor penguin stands nearly
+four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty to ninety pounds....
+I think the chickens hate their parents, and when one watches the
+proceedings in a rookery it strikes one as not surprising. In the
+first place there is about one chick to ten or twelve adults, and
+each adult has an overpowering desire to "sit" on something. Both
+males and females want to nurse, and the result is that when a
+chicken finds himself alone there is a rush on the part of a dozen
+unemployed to seize him. Naturally he runs away, and dodges here
+and there till a six-stone Emperor falls on him, and then begins
+a regular football scrimmage, in which each tries to hustle the
+other off, and the end is too often disastrous to the chick....
+I think it is not
+[Page 156]
+an exaggeration to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less
+than half are killed by kindness.'
+
+From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens back
+to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep them
+warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded in his
+attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding, and Wilson
+says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the age when they
+put on their feathers, I fear that the journey home through the
+tropics would have proved too much for them, as we had no means
+of making a cool place for them on the ship.'
+
+September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on that
+day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the sun would
+be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the most careful
+preparations, and everyone was placed under his orders during the
+day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera were trained in the
+right direction, magnetic instruments were set to run at quick
+speed, and observers were told off to watch everything on which the
+absence of sun could possibly have the smallest effect. Everything,
+in short, was ready except the sun itself which obstinately refused
+to come out. 'There may,' Scott says, 'have been an eclipse of
+the sun on September 21, 1903, as the almanac said, but we should
+none of us have liked to swear to the fact.'
+
+The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the long
+journeys, and on October 12 Scott
+[Page 157]
+left the ship with a party of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First
+came his own party, which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly
+and Handsley; secondly there was a small party for the geologist,
+Ferrar, who was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there
+were the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley.
+
+Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to be the
+hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that experience
+would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it would take a
+good deal to stop the determined men whom he had chosen. At the
+start their loads were a little over 200 lbs. per man, but most
+of the party were by this time in thoroughly good condition, and
+by hard marching they covered the forty-five miles to New Harbour
+and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th.
+
+This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for here
+on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh seal-meat,
+and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter was carried
+and left at the point for each party.
+
+At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until
+the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably
+beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then
+Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split
+under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious blow;
+for although the wood runners were capable of running on snow without
+protection, on
+[Page 158]
+hard, sharp ice, especially if the sledge was heavily laden, they
+would be knocked to pieces in a very short time. It was, therefore,
+absolutely necessary to protect the runners on this journey, but
+unfortunately the German silver protection had already stood a
+season's work, and had worn thin without giving any outward sign.
+
+From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles of
+hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately
+arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage.
+
+By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over 6,000
+feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous state
+that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned up for
+inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained sound,
+and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and only one to
+take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as they could. Had
+two sledges been available the advance party might have struggled on,
+but with one they could do nothing; so they left the sound sledge
+with everything else except the half-week's provisions necessary
+to take them back, and on the following days they 'came as near
+flying as is possible with a sledge party.' On the morning of the
+19th they had eighty-seven miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on
+the 21st they had reached the ship.
+
+During this march Scott had determined to test his own party to
+the utmost, but seeing no necessity
+[Page 159]
+for the supports to be dragged into this effort he told them to
+take their own time. The supporting party, however, did not mean
+to be left behind if they could help it, and later on the night
+of the 21st they also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of
+the last hours some of the members of the supporting party, though
+determined not to give in, had been comically astounded by the
+pace which was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott,
+kept on repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my
+legs are as long as his.
+
+Five days after their flying return they were off again, and although
+the material for repairing sledges was very scanty, one sound 11-foot
+sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for Ferrar's glacier
+work. Trouble, however, almost at once began with the runners,
+and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and caused a long delay.
+But in spite of being held up by wind for two days, they reached
+their depot on November 1, and thought at first that everything
+was safe. On examination, however, they discovered that a violent
+gale had forced open the lid of the instrument box, and that several
+things were missing, among which Scott found to his dismay was
+the 'Hints to Travelers.'
+
+'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November 1,
+'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow I
+felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second
+time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others,
+[Page 160]
+and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to take
+the risks of pushing on.'
+
+In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be--as indeed he was--out
+of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a case as this the
+sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position as a ship or a
+boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of his whereabouts
+by observation of the sun or stars, and with the help of these
+observations he finds his latitude and longitude, but to do this a
+certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to Travelers' supplies
+these necessary data, and it was on this book that Scott had been
+relying to help him to work out his sights and fix accurately the
+position of his party. Unless he went back to the ship to make
+good his loss, he was obliged to take the risk of marching into
+the unknown without knowing exactly where he was or how he was to
+get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of our "Hints to Travelers" did
+not lead us into serious trouble it caused me many a bad half-hour.'
+
+Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about
+it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant
+attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach on
+the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000 feet.
+
+So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but November
+4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described afterwards as
+'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In the morning of
+the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold, increasing wind,
+[Page 161]
+but later on the sun disappeared and the weather became very
+threatening. Still, however, they battled on and were half-way
+up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when the air became
+thick with driving snow and the full force of the gale burst upon
+them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded in reaching the
+top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch of snow on which
+to camp, but nothing could be found except bare, blue ice. By this
+time the position was becoming serious, all of them were frost-bitten
+in the face, and although the runners of the sledges were split
+again so badly that they could barely pull them over the surface,
+they did not dare to leave the sledges in the thick drift.
+
+At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but the
+snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was almost
+as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was this or
+nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party, and
+dug for all he was worth without making the least impression. At
+this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him, and
+being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few small
+blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and again it
+and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour passed before
+the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote, 'but experience
+saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty confident that
+we could not have stood another hour in the open.'
+
+Little, however, did they expect when shelter
+[Page 162]
+was gained that a week would pass before they could resume their
+march. From November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile
+not a vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped
+continuously in a thick fog of driving snow.
+
+In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the _Beagle_,'
+and first one and then another would read this aloud, until frozen
+fingers prevented the pages from being turned over. Only one piece
+of work were they able to perform, and this on the first day when,
+thinking the storm would soon blow over, they hauled the sledges
+beneath one of the tents and stripped the German silver ready for
+the onward march.
+
+By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them,
+and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the
+health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might
+be he would try to start on the following morning.
+
+This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes
+both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the
+heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling
+in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this
+unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of
+bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is
+slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning,
+but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be
+done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.'
+
+Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the
+[Page 163]
+storm, and though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was
+possible at last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's
+party separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall
+and eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident.
+On starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at
+once went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when
+they began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting
+to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were
+in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened;
+our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.'
+
+But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the
+night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With
+five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many
+miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were,
+as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different
+party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp'
+on the morning of the 11th.
+
+But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started the
+journey to the west before troubles again began to gather round them.
+The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their sleeping-bags
+and night-jackets with ice, and with falling temperatures this ice
+had so little chance to evaporate that camping arrangements were
+acutely uncomfortable; and as each night the thermometer fell a
+little lower,
+[Page 164]
+the chance of relief from this state of things could scarcely be
+said to exist. The wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it
+was not very strong, when combined with the low temperature and
+rarefied air its effect was blighting.
+
+'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to conceive
+a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at this time,
+when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs upon the
+last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands. Yet
+before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word!
+Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook
+ever so comfortless?'
+
+So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite of
+every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the 17th
+the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans leading
+with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed with the
+other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge had great
+difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself felt thoroughly
+strong and well, some of his companions were beginning to fail. As
+was natural with such men not one of them would own that he was
+exhausted, and in consequence it was only by paying the keenest
+attention that he could detect those who from sheer incapacity
+were relaxing their strain on the traces. And his position was not
+pleasant even when he knew, for to tell any of these brave people
+that they must turn back was a most unenviable
+[Page 165]
+task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched on, though
+Scott was sure that better progress would have been made had the
+party been divided.
+
+Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley
+more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean
+to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he
+begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's
+opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would make
+him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his diary:
+'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children! The
+boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has been
+pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes through the
+traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has never uttered a
+word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is on him he straightens
+up and pretends he is just as fit as ever. What is one to do with
+such people?'
+
+What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before, but
+on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley that
+they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise their
+disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had to be.'
+
+From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision,
+three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and his
+companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back upon
+this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a
+[Page 166]
+high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the
+successful work that was done.
+
+'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be
+a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered....
+Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at
+the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task
+we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked
+out on board the ship.'
+
+Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40 deg. or below, while
+during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25 deg., and with
+this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact the wind was
+the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces. So cracked were
+their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the first half-hour
+of the morning march, before they were warmed up to the work, was
+dreadful, as then all their sore places got frost-bitten. In short the
+last week of their outward march was a searching test of endurance,
+but they had resolved to march on until November 30, and in spite
+of the miserable conditions there was no turning back before the
+month had ended.
+
+Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30 had
+come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march, thank
+heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week but the
+determination to carry out our original intention of going on to
+the end of the month, and so here we have pitched our last camp.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 167]
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE RETURN FROM THE WEST
+
+  Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
+  Bound its broad zone of stillness.--SHELLEY.
+
+'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march
+out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long way to
+the west from my rough noon observation of the compass variation.'
+But not for anything in the world did he want again to see the
+interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after this great march
+he says: 'For me the long month which we spent on the Victoria Land
+summit remains as some vivid but evil dream. I have a memory of
+continuous strain on mind and body, lightened only by the unfailing
+courage and cheerfulness of my companions.'
+
+From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to
+penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold,
+and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards
+the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the
+time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their
+powers of marching could they hope
+[Page 168]
+to retreat in safety from their position, and December opened with
+such overcast weather that valuable time had to be spent in the
+tent. During the next few days, however, good marches were made,
+until on December 9 everything changed abruptly for the worse.
+
+On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably bad,
+that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge along
+at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in view
+of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should be
+increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of oil,
+and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of days
+their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold lunch
+and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently doesn't
+much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the form of
+a _hoosh_ and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.'
+
+Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was
+as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty
+of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single
+point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon them,
+and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger there was
+no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that they were
+becoming 'gaunt shadows.'
+
+During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more
+or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack.
+His attitude
+[Page 169]
+to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance, as though,
+while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less responsible
+for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion when told that
+it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone, 'My poor old nose
+again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time it had been brought
+round a storm was blowing, and though they continued to march,
+the drift was so thick that at any moment they might have walked
+over the edge of a precipice--a fitting prelude to what, by general
+consent, was admitted to be the most adventurous day in their lives.
+
+Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were at
+first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was blowing and
+high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In this predicament
+Scott realized that it was both rash to go forward, as the air was
+becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally rash to stop, for if they
+had to spend another long spell in a blizzard camp, starvation would
+soon be staring them in the face. So he asked Evans and Lashly if
+they were ready to take the risk of going on, and promptly discovered
+that they were. Then they marched straight for the ice disturbance,
+and as the surface became smoother and the slope steeper their
+sledge began to overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and
+Lashly behind to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front
+to guide its course, and what happened afterwards is described
+most graphically in the diary of the 15th.
+
+[Page 170]
+'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward
+on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown
+off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time
+to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced myself
+to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an express
+train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and we all
+three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with an
+ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought that
+flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if he
+attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to this
+effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there came
+a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in the
+midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide smoothly
+and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes leaving
+it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken limbs
+again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping.
+
+'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled
+with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came
+down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard,
+wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment
+or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering
+what had happened.
+
+'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and
+in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken.
+But we had by
+[Page 171]
+no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one black bruise from
+knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough to land once on
+his back, which is bruised and very painful.... I, as the lightest,
+escaped the easiest, yet before the two men crawled painfully to
+their feet their first question was to ask if I had been hurt.
+
+'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now to
+my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance of our
+own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared well-remembered
+landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken ice-wall over which we
+had fallen, I now recognized at once the most elevated ice cascade
+of our valley....
+
+'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position
+was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could
+not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any
+other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our depot; it
+was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark. Now
+in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised... and
+down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Depot Nunatak
+where peace and plenty awaited us.'
+
+The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the end,
+but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken open the
+biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions left,
+except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager contents
+of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would
+[Page 172]
+allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge
+and marched on towards the depot. Before them lay a long plateau, at
+the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second cascade,
+and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more gradual
+icy surface down to the depot.
+
+Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite
+unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness to
+their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought Scott
+in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his right
+and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid, and
+Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had this
+order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing and
+disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from following
+and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace. The sledge
+flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which Scott and Evans
+had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked by the jerk but
+the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,' Scott says, 'I
+remember absolutely nothing until I found myself dangling at the
+end of my trace with blue walls on either side and a very horrid
+looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged by our movements
+continued to shower down on our heads. As a first step I took off
+my goggles; I then discovered that Evans was hanging just above
+me. I asked him if he was all right, and received a reassuring
+reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.'
+
+[Page 173]
+Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed
+feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg
+suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising
+himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle
+he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially
+between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the
+right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another
+such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The
+projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or
+not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had
+slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he
+could pilot his feet to the bridge.
+
+'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I realized
+what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet over our
+heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at once what a
+frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask what he could
+do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed companion;
+for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with one hand,
+his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski. At length
+he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken sledge,
+and so making our support more secure.'
+
+But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's
+active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge
+began to slip. The only
+[Page 174]
+possible course, therefore, was for Scott and Evans to climb out
+unaided, and, after a word with Evans Scott decided to try first;
+though he confessed afterwards that he never expected to reach
+the top. Not for a longtime had he swarmed a rope, and to do so
+in thick clothing, heavy crampons, and with frost-bitten fingers
+seemed to him impossible. Of the struggle that followed he remembered
+little except that he got a rest when he could plant his foot in
+the belt of his own harness, and again when his feet held on the
+rings of the belt. 'Then came a mighty effort, till I reached the
+stirrup formed by the rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering
+all the strength that remained, I reached the sledge itself and
+flung myself on to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and
+it was perhaps then that I realized that his position had been
+the worst of all.'
+
+But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action for
+several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists, and not
+until their circulation came back could he get to work. With two on
+top and only one below the position, however, was very different,
+and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was landed on the surface.
+For a minute or two they could only stand and look at one another.
+Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,' which was the first sign of
+surprise he had shown.
+
+By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their depot, and
+passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised, sore
+and tired as they were,
+[Page 175]
+Lashly sang merrily as he stirred the pot, while Scott and Evans
+sat on the sledge, shifted their foot-gear, spread out their clothes
+to dry, and talked cheerily about the happenings of the day.
+
+From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except
+to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that they
+were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front of
+them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their second
+depot and could look out towards the sea, they did not care how far
+round they might have to walk if only that stubborn sheet of ice
+had broken away. But it was too evident that their homeward track
+might be as straight as they chose, as only in the far distance was
+open water to be seen, and with sorrow they realized that there
+must still be many miles of ice between it and the _Discovery_.
+
+Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after
+an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725
+miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted
+the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered 1,098
+miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed heights
+which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the _Discovery_
+Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley on board, because
+all the rest of the company had gone to the north to saw through the
+ice; and during the few days of rest that he allowed himself before
+going to the sawing-camp, he was able to read the reports of the
+[Page 176]
+officers who had led the other journeys, and to see what excellent
+work had been done during his absence.
+
+Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially
+to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and
+Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but
+throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably,
+with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately
+plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions
+and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne
+also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great
+Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went
+on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting
+series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself
+belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell
+upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside
+the tent while he was at work inside it.
+
+Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier, but
+had also made a complete examination of the enormous and interesting
+pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great Barrier ice-mass
+with the land, and subsequently had spent much time in studying the
+windless area to the south of Ross Island. Also, with Armitage and
+Heald, he had made an excellent little journey, on which Armitage
+obtained some very good photographs,
+[Page 177]
+sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions
+of the whole continent.
+
+In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working
+strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the
+second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate
+themselves that the main part of their work was done.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 178]
+CHAPTER X
+
+RELEASE
+
+                      And Thor
+  Set his shoulder hard against the stern
+  To push the ship through...
+  ...and the water gurgled in
+  And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd.
+    M. ARNOLD.
+
+After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was
+going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he
+started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and
+a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt
+to free the _Discovery_ were drawn up, there had been, of course,
+no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations began,
+and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly the
+same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended to
+the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There he
+directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom in
+Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations
+in accordance with the instructions he had received.
+
+At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him,
+[Page 179]
+as in the middle of December the open water, instead of being up
+to the islets, ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under
+the circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out to
+the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the middle
+of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge.
+
+Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at
+first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were
+all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land
+of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that,
+apart from the labour, they were having a most enjoyable time,
+though no one imagined that the work would be useful.
+
+In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must be
+in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much struck,'
+he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully carried on
+this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There could have
+been no officer or man among them who did not see from the first
+how utterly useless it was, and yet there has been no faltering
+or complaint, simply because all have felt that, as the sailor
+expresses it, "Them's the orders."'
+
+With twenty miles of ice between the _Discovery_ and freedom, the
+possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so although
+most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans, Handsley
+and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate stock of
+penguins. And then Scott being unable
+[Page 180]
+to do any good by remaining in the ship started off to the north
+with Wilson, the former being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see
+what chance there was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study
+the life of that region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with
+no hard marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely
+way, on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water
+when Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked
+round, and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with
+thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they
+had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was to
+have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating to
+think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two years.
+During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and the skua
+gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper they took
+soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran within a few
+yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight. 'Then,' Scott
+says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with seal kidneys;
+eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was simply delicious.
+I have come to the conclusion that life in the Antarctic Regions
+can be very pleasant.'
+
+Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast
+on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott,
+looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond,
+suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle reigned
+supreme, and while they were searching for
+[Page 181]
+boots and other things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why,
+there's another,' and without any doubt two vessels were framed
+in the doorway. It had at once been taken for granted that the
+first ship was the _Morning_, but what in the name of fortune was
+the meaning of the other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine.
+The easiest and quickest way to find out was to go straight on
+board, for the ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles
+to the westward, but if they had followed this simple plan their
+companions on the _Discovery_ would have known nothing about it,
+and would have been compelled to wait for their mails. So they
+started southward to find the penguin hunters, and then to send
+them to establish communications with the ship. For a long time
+no sight of the men could be seen, but after traveling about six
+miles Scott and Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of
+life about it; indeed they were within a hundred yards before in
+answer to their shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still
+munching the remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought
+they had not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained,
+they didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the
+matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't
+you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would be
+all right." In other words, they as good as said that life was so
+extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible object in
+worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief expedition.'
+When, however, they
+[Page 182]
+had got their orders they were off at once, and Scott and Wilson
+went back to the ships and soon found out from Colbeck why the
+_Terra Nova_ had accompanied the _Morning_, and how strangely the
+aspect of affairs had altered. Writing in his diary on that night
+Scott says, 'I can only record that in spite of the good home news,
+and in spite of the pleasure of seeing old friends again, I was
+happier last night than I am to-night.'
+
+Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of
+one were these. Scott's report taken by the _Morning_ had left
+the strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to
+the south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to
+meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time enough
+to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities of the
+case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the Societies
+to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually the latter
+agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief expedition,
+provided that the _Morning_, as she stood, was delivered over to
+them. The Government naturally placed the management of affairs in
+the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the responsibility
+it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order that there should
+be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled.
+
+The _Terra Nova_, one of the finest of the whaling ships, was bought,
+and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry MacKay,
+was engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November 1903 she
+layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in
+[Page 183]
+December she was joined by the _Morning_, Captain Colbeck being
+directed to take charge of this joint venture until both ships
+could come under Scott's command.
+
+Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships
+arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was
+not, however, the arrival of the _Terra Nova_, whose captain from
+the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another matter
+that made Scott so sad--and naturally sad--at this time.
+
+In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation
+had formed the opinion that the _Discovery_ was stuck fast in the
+ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion or not
+is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty to see
+that the expense of another relief expedition should be avoided.
+Consequently there was no other course open to them except to tell
+Scott to abandon the _Discovery_, if she could not be freed in
+time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But necessary
+as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions in a very
+cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a sailor would
+go through much rather than abandon his ship, but the ties which
+bound Scott and his company to the _Discovery_ were very far beyond
+the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth of sentiment not in the
+least surprising when their associations with her are remembered.
+
+In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving
+her had never entered their heads.
+[Page 184]
+Some time she would be free again, and even if they had to spend
+a third winter in her they had determined to go through with it,
+and make themselves as comfortable as possible.
+
+It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were
+rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that unless
+a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks, they must bid
+a long farewell to their beloved ship and return to their homes
+as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief ships there fell
+the first and last cloud of gloom which was ever allowed on board
+the _Discovery_. And as day followed day with no improvement in
+the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until anyone might easily
+have imagined that an Antarctic expedition was a most dismal affair.
+
+On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and
+this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I told
+them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence. I have
+not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.'
+
+For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten miles
+to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged to notify
+any changes in the ice, but day after day the only signal was 'No
+change in the ice conditions.'
+
+On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something that
+did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and instruments
+should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever the future held
+[Page 185]
+in store he saw no reason why this should not be done, and to have
+anything at all to do during this trying time was a blessing; though
+he had by no means given up hope that the Discovery would be freed.
+
+After a long spell at Cape Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship
+on the night of the 21st with news that was all the more welcome at
+such an anxious time. Strolling over the beach one day to inspect
+what he thought was a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was
+quite different from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to
+the camp for his gun. Two of the _Morning_ officers were in camp
+with him, and all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange
+new beast. Their great fear was that they might only succeed in
+wounding it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite
+of the temperature of the water they waded round it before they
+attacked. These tactics were successful, but their quarry when
+dispatched was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to
+examine where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came
+over in the _Morning_, and with the aid of boats and ropes the
+carcass was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion
+that the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie
+Island, but never before seen within the Antarctic circle.
+
+No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces
+broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships were
+four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight before. But,
+[Page 186]
+if the conditions were to be as they had been two years before,
+thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in fifteen days,
+a far more rapid rate than it had been going during the previous
+fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of real promise
+occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway very slightly under
+the action of a long swell, its edge against the land rising and
+falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all very restless, constantly
+dashing up the hill to the lookout station or wandering from place
+to place to observe the effects of the swell. But it is long since
+we enjoyed such a cheerful experience as we get on watching the
+loose pieces of ice jostling one another at Hut Point.'
+
+Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February arrived
+and brought the best of news with it. During the day nothing unusual
+happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner that the excitement
+began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and a voice sang out down
+the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!'
+
+'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut
+Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking
+up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not
+thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than
+a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and
+carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was
+hurrying away to the north-west.
+
+'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight;
+[Page 187]
+the sun was low behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front
+was intensely white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking
+leads looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a
+sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of this
+peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that great
+ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.'
+
+But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the
+relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the
+first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company
+of spectators had clustered; although the little _Morning_, with
+her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to hold
+her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten those
+on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships crashed
+into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild excitement
+they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly heard.
+
+Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener
+and keener. On came the _Terra Nova_, but in spite of all her mighty
+efforts the persistent little _Morning_, dodging right and left
+and seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at her side, and
+still seemed to have a chance of winning the race.
+
+Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments,
+stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene.
+
+'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then a burst
+of frenzied cheering broke out. It
+[Page 188]
+seemed to us almost too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all
+the thick ice had vanished, and there remained only the thin area
+of decayed floe which has lately made the approach to the ships
+so dangerous; a few minutes later the _Terra Nova_ forged ahead
+and came crashing into the open, to be followed almost immediately
+by her stout little companion, and soon both ships were firmly
+anchored to all that remains of the _Discovery's_ prison, the wedge
+that still holds in our small bay....
+
+'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost
+side by side; a rope from the _Terra Nova_ is actually secured
+to the _Discovery_. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly
+not we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.'
+
+The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was cracked
+in many places, and would doubtless have departed of its own accord
+in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to get away, decided
+to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently at 1 A.M. on February
+16 there was an explosion which shook the whole bay, and rudely
+disturbed not only the ice but also the slumbers of those who were
+not members of the explosion party.
+
+A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and when
+all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a thunderous
+report which shook the ship throughout, and then all was calm again.
+For a brief moment one might have imagined that nothing had happened,
+but then one saw that each
+[Page 189]
+crack was slowly widening; presently there came the gurgle of water
+as it was sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute
+there was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the
+keel was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the
+great mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our
+good ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors
+with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was that
+the _Discovery_ came to her own again--the right to ride the high
+seas.'
+
+On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or
+happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation
+they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after such
+a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard work lay
+in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder of their
+program. If the _Discovery_ was free before the navigable season
+closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time in exploring
+the region to the westward of Cape North, but now after two years'
+imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme. Directly the relief
+ships had arrived he had asked them for as great a quantity as
+possible, but although the replies had at first been satisfactory,
+a long month's fight with wind and ice had sadly reduced the amount
+they could afford to give. The only thing to do was to get without
+any delay what could be spared, and on the afternoon of the 16th
+the _Terra Nova_ came alongside to hand over her supply. 'The
+afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully calm and
+[Page 190]
+bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on the termination
+of our long and successful struggle with the ice.... We little
+guessed what lay before us.'
+
+On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved inscription
+to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit of Hut Point,
+and on the following day the small company landed together and
+stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott read some short
+prayers.
+
+The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled
+back to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to their
+shipmate, but weather of this kind had been too common to attract
+attention. On that night Captain MacKay was dining in the _Discovery_
+for the first time, and a great effort had been made to show him how
+good an Antarctic feast could be. In the middle of dinner, however,
+word came down to Scott that the wind had sprung up, and although
+he expected nothing serious he went up to see what was happening.
+Then he saw they were in for a stiff blow, and reluctantly had to
+inform his guests of the fact. One glance at the sky satisfied
+MacKay, who was over the rail like a shot, and in a few minutes
+the _Terra Nova_ was steaming for the open and lost in the drift.'
+
+[Illustration: THE 'TERRA NOVA' LEAVING THE ANTARCTIC. _Photo by
+F. Debenham._]
+
+Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did not
+altogether like the look of things and determined to get up steam as
+soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the engine-room
+after such a long period of disuse. But early in the morning
+[Page 191]
+of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and the _Discovery_
+began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming manner.
+
+'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in
+spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I watched
+anxiously to see if the ship dragged.
+
+'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in half
+an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot astern
+and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first, the
+steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant situation,
+as the distance grew shorter every minute, until the spray of the
+breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was soon followed by
+a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice. We rebounded and
+struck again, and our head was just beginning to falloff and the
+ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what would have happened
+then) when steam was announced.'
+
+Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone
+would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once around
+Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open sea before
+them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter of a mile out,
+though off the end there was a shallow patch which had to be cleared
+before safety could be reached. So finding that no headway was
+being made he began to edge out towards the Point, and all seemed
+well until, nearly opposite to the Point itself, he saw to his
+alarm that a strong current was sweeping past.
+
+[Page 192]
+'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm
+over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the
+fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant
+after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with
+our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead
+to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to
+set us faster ashore.
+
+'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that followed
+were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each moment the
+ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her from stem
+to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly that, strong
+as was her build, she could not long survive such awful blows.'
+
+Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and
+crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be
+done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility
+of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next best
+thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather moderated.
+Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could rely on the
+support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton already had
+made a list of weights by the removal of which the ship could be
+lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned to discuss the manner
+in which the anchors could be laid out he also had his scheme cut
+and dried.
+
+The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after
+[Page 193]
+they assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the
+_Discovery_. But when they were half-way through this silent meal
+Mulock, the officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said, 'The
+ship's working astern, sir.'
+
+In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both wind
+and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But what
+surprised him even more was that the current, which had been running
+strongly to the north, had turned and was running with equal speed
+to the south. Each time that the ship lifted on a wave she worked
+two or three inches astern, and though she was still grinding heavily
+she no longer struck the bottom with such terrific force. Scarcely,
+however, had these facts been observed when Skelton rushed up to
+say that the inlets were free again.
+
+'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together
+and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs
+were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve, and
+the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or two
+the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady grating
+under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and ceased as
+the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water.... Rarely,
+if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable plight as
+ours to find herself free and safe within the space of an hour....
+To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws fourteen feet cannot
+be a pleasant position--nor can there be a doubt
+[Page 194]
+that the shocks which the _Discovery_ sustained would have very
+seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.'
+
+None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short
+time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the
+18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the
+southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided
+to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and
+complete the coaling operations.
+
+On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent,
+no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as a
+sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists,
+lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working
+with all their might on the coaling whips.
+
+The _Morning_ handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this was all
+the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the narrowest
+margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward without joining
+in any attempt at further exploration. 'His practical common sense
+told him he could be of little use to us, and with his usual loyalty
+he never hesitated to act for the best, at whatever sacrifice to
+his own hopes and wishes.'
+
+Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged that
+the three ships should journey up the coast together and then separate,
+the _Morning_ proceeding to the north, while the _Discovery_ and
+the _Terra Nova_ turned west. The companies of both relief
+[Page 195]
+ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the _Discovery_
+when she entered her first civilized port; so Scott fixed upon
+Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot at which they might
+meet before the final return to New Zealand.
+
+February 20 saw the _Discovery_ speeding along a stretch of coast
+that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously
+made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged
+to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now
+gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than
+this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking
+innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally
+indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery
+to his sketch-book.
+
+Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the
+engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end; and on
+the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On inspection
+Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely shattered,
+and was held together by little more than its weight; as the tiller
+was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but with a lag of
+many degrees, so that the connection between the two was evidently
+insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that they could not
+hope to weather a gale without losing all control over the ship, and
+that no time was to be lost in shipping their spare rudder in place
+of the damaged one. So Scott determined to seek shelter in Robertson
+[Page 196]
+Bay, and by night the damaged rudder had been hoisted on deck and
+the spare one prepared for lowering into its place. Since the
+_Discovery_ had left winter quarters an almost incredible amount
+of work had been done to bring her into sea trim. Difficulty after
+difficulty had arisen, but the energy of the company had never
+slackened, and by February 25 Scott was able to say that everything
+was once more in order, though he was a little doubtful about the
+steering power of their spare rudder.
+
+At this time it was all the more important that the ship should
+give no further trouble, because according to their program they
+were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite
+enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With high
+hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the point
+reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned to the
+west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice, however, was
+destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their advance, and on
+the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east and try to find a
+way around this formidable barrier. 'It is grievously disappointing
+to find the pack so far to the east; Ross carried the open water
+almost to Cape North.' And again on March 1, Scott sounds a note
+of lamentation: 'There can be no doubt that since leaving Victoria
+Land we have been skirting a continuous mass of pack, which must
+cover the whole sea south of the Balleny Islands. That it should
+have lain so far to the eastward this year is very annoying;
+[Page 197]
+however, if we can push on upon this course we ought to strike the
+islands.'
+
+Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and
+by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others
+that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them
+considerably, and not until some time later was the problem solved.
+In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this region, and
+three years later Ross saw land which he imagined was to the southward
+of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it to be divided into three
+distinct masses named it the Russell Islands. Consequently Scott
+arrived expecting to see two groups of islands, and was naturally
+perplexed when only one group was to be seen. After, however, studying
+the accounts of these islands and comparing them with what he could
+actually see, he recognized that they had just passed Balleny's
+Sturge Island, which Balleny had seen from the north, and so could
+have had no idea of its length in a north-and-south line. Later
+Ross must have seen this same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite
+possible, from a great distance must have thought that it was divided
+into three, and hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate
+group. Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings
+to fix accurately the position of each island.
+
+Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny
+Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes
+claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige
+of it could they
+[Page 198]
+see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that Wilkes Land was
+once and for all definitely disposed of. With this negative, but
+nevertheless important, result, the exploring work ended, and although
+a lack of coal had prevented their cherished plan of rounding Cape
+North, they had at least the satisfaction of clearing up some
+geographical misconceptions in a more northerly latitude.
+
+From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of
+greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on board
+the _Discovery_, for she was in very light trim and tossed about
+the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the greatest
+relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross Harbour on
+the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay.
+
+Neither the _Terra Nova_ nor the _Morning_ had yet arrived, and
+the days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart as
+possible before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus,
+in a few days, the _Discovery_ looked as though she had spent her
+adventurous years in some peaceful harbor.
+
+On March 19 the _Terra Nova_ hove in sight, and was followed on
+the next day by the _Morning_. Both ships had experienced the most
+terrible weather, and everyone on board the little _Morning_ declared
+that she had only been saved from disaster by the consummate seamanship
+of Captain Colbeck.
+
+A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most
+favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1
+[Page 199]
+off the Heads of Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely
+berthed alongside the jetty, from which they had sailed with such
+hearty wishes more than two years before.
+
+'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered
+on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can
+never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express
+our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that
+could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full
+months before we set out on our last long voyage.'
+
+June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later they
+anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they replenished
+their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic observations
+in connection with their Southern Survey. And from the Falkland
+Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another testimony of
+the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The praise,' he wrote,
+'for whatever success we have had is really due to the ship's company
+as a whole rather than to individuals. That is not very clear,
+perhaps; what I mean is that the combination of individual effort
+for the common good has achieved our results, and the absence of
+any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout has been "share
+and share alike," and its most practical form lies, perhaps, in the
+fact that throughout our three years there has been no distinction
+between the food served to officers and men.
+
+[Page 200]
+'Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no
+greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so
+loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head.
+
+'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic,
+for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition
+of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.'
+
+Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted, and
+for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to welcome
+and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy of their
+return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought that the
+end had come to those ties, which had held together the small band
+of the _Discovery_ in the closest companionship and most unswerving
+loyalty.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 201]
+THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+
+
+[Page 203]
+PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION'
+
+By Sir CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B.
+
+Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer,
+able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors,
+and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility
+to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man living
+could be found who was so well fitted to command a great Antarctic
+Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented. The object
+was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by land. Captain Scott
+entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm tempered by prudence
+and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a thorough study of the
+history of Arctic traveling, combined with experience of different
+conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott was the initiator and
+founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling.
+
+His discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings
+along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the
+discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the examination
+of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria Mountains--a
+range of great height and many hundreds
+[Page 204]
+of miles in length, which had only before been seen from a distance
+out at sea--and above all the discovery of the great ice cap on
+which the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable
+Polar journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff
+worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being
+recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
+
+The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his
+beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work.
+The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of
+battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that
+five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labours.
+
+The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly scientific,
+to complete and extend his former work in all branches of science. It
+was his ambition that in his ship there should be the most completely
+equipped expedition for scientific purposes connected with the Polar
+regions, both as regards men and material, that ever left these
+shores. In this he succeeded. He had on board a fuller complement
+of geologists, one of them especially trained for the study, of
+physiography, biologists, physicists, and surveyors than ever before
+composed the staff of a Polar expedition. Thus Captain Scott's
+objects were strictly scientific, including the completion and
+extension of his former discoveries. The results will be explained
+in the second volume of this work. They will be found to be extensive
+and important. Never before, in the
+[Page 205]
+Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal observations
+been taken, in one locality, during five years. It was also part
+of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by a long and most
+arduous journey, but here again his intention was, if possible,
+to achieve scientific results on the way, especially hoping to
+discover fossils which would throw light on the former history of
+the great range of mountains which he had made known to science.
+
+The principal aim of this great man--for he rightly has his niche
+among the Polar _Dii Majores_--was the advancement of knowledge.
+From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our
+time, and the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply
+impressed with the beauty of his character. The chief traits which
+shone forth through his life were conspicuous in the hour of death.
+There are few events in history to be compared, for grandeur and
+pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent wilderness of
+snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his dearest friends
+beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil dropped from his dying
+grasp. There was no thought of himself, only the earnest desire
+to give comfort and consolation to others in their sorrow. His
+very last lines were written lest he who induced him to enter upon
+Antarctic work should now feel regret for what he had done.
+
+'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him,
+and never regretted his putting me in command of the _Discovery_.'
+
+[Page 206]
+The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain
+Scott between 1905 and 1910:
+
+  January to July, 1906            Admiralty (Assistant Director
+                                   of Naval Intelligence.)
+  Aug. 21, 1906, to Jan. 1, 1907   _Victorious_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Jan. 2, 1907, to Aug. 24, 1907   _Albermarle_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Aug. 25, 1907, to Jan. 24, 1908  Not actively employed afloat
+                                   between these dates.
+  Jan. 25, 1908, to May 29, 1908   _Essex_ (Captain).
+  May 30, 1908, to March 23, 1909  _Bulwark_ (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Colville, Rear-Admiral
+                                   the Nore Division, Home Fleet).
+
+Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed
+to H.M.S. _President_ for British Antarctic Expedition June 1,
+1910.
+
+[Page 207]
+On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was
+married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter
+Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909.
+
+On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for the
+British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his appeal
+resulted in L10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund. Then the
+Government made a grant of L20,000, and grants followed from the
+Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
+
+Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made
+to purchase the steamship _Terra Nova_, the largest and strongest
+of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing
+was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged
+upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave
+Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott from
+leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he sailed
+in the _Saxon_ to South Africa, and there awaited the arrival of
+the _Terra Nova_.
+
+
+[Page 208]
+BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910
+
+SHORE PARTIES
+
+_Officers_
+
+    Name                     Rank, &c.
+  Robert Falcon Scott      _Captain, C.V.O., R.N._
+  Edward R. G. R. Evans    _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Victor L. A. Campbell    _Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List)_
+  Henry R. Bowers          _Lieutenant, R.I.M._
+  Lawrence E. G. Oates     _Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons._
+  G. Murray Levick         _Surgeon, R.N._
+  Edward L. Atkinson       _Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist._
+
+_Scientific Staff_
+
+  Edward Adrian Wilson     _B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the
+                           Scientific Staff, and Zoologist._
+  George C. Simpson        _D.Sc., Meteorologist._
+  T. Griffith Taylor       _B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist._
+  Edward W. Nelson         _Biologist._
+  Frank Debenham           _B.A., B.Sc., Geologist._
+  Charles S. Wright        _B.A., Physicist._
+  Raymond E. Priestley     _Geologist._
+  Herbert G. Ponting       _F.R.G.S, Camera Artist._
+  Cecil H. Meares          _In Charge of Dogs._
+  Bernard C. Day           _Motor Engineer._
+  Apsley Cherry-Garrard    _B.A., Asst. Zoologist._
+  Tryggve Gran             _Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R.,
+                           B.A., Ski Expert._
+
+[Page 209]
+_Men_
+
+  W. Lashly                _Chief Stoker, R.N._
+  W. W. Archer             _Chief Steward, late R.N._
+  Thomas Clissold          _Cook, late R.N._
+  Edgar Evans              _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Robert Forde             _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Thomas Crean             _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Thomas S. Williamson     _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Patrick Keohane          _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  George P. Abbott         _Petty Officer, R.N._
+  Frank V. Browning        _Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N._
+  Harry Dickason           _Able Seaman, R.N._
+  F. J. Hooper             _Steward, late R.N._
+  Anton Omelchenko         _Groom._
+  Demetri Gerof            _Dog Driver._
+
+SHIP'S PARTY
+
+_Officers, &c._
+
+  Harry L. L. Pennell      _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Henry E. de P. Rennick   _Lieutenant, R.N._
+  Wilfred M. Bruce         _Lieutenant, R.N.R._
+  Francis R. H. Drake      _Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired),
+                           Secretary and Meteorologist in Ship._
+  Denis G. Lillie          _M.A., Biologist in Ship._
+
+  James R. Dennistoun      _In Charge of Mules in Ship._
+  Alfred B. Cheetham       _R.N.R., Boatswain._
+  William Williams         _Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N.,
+                           2nd Engineer._
+  William A. Horton        _Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer._
+  Francis E. C. Davies     _Leading Shipwright, R.N._
+  Frederick Parsons        _Petty Officer, R.N._
+[Page 210]
+  William L. Heald         _Late P.O., R.N._
+  Arthur S. Bailey         _Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N._
+  Albert Balson            _Leading Seaman, R.N._
+  Joseph Leese             _Able Seaman, R.N._
+  John Hugh Mather         _Petty Officer, R.N.V.R._
+  Robert Oliphant          _Able Seaman._
+  Thomas F. McLeod         _Able Seaman._
+  Mortimer McCarthy        _Able Seaman._
+  William Knowles          _Able Seaman._
+  Charles Williams         _Able Seaman._
+  James Skelton            _Able Seaman._
+  William McDonald         _Able Seaman._
+  James Paton              _Able Seaman._
+  Robert Brissenden        _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Edward A. McKenzie       _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  William Burton           _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Bernard J. Stone         _Leading Stoker, R.N._
+  Angus McDonald           _Fireman._
+  Thomas McGillon          _Fireman._
+  Charles Lammas           _Fireman._
+  W. H. Neale              _Steward._
+
+
+
+
+[Page 211]
+CHAPTER I
+
+THROUGH STORMY SEAS
+
+  The ice was here, the ice was there,
+  The ice was all around:
+  It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
+  Like noises in a swound.--COLERIDGE.
+
+No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic
+expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The
+selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers
+was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the
+applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of
+the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to
+the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer
+exists in the British race.
+
+On June 15, 1910, the _Terra Nova_ left Cardiff upon her great
+mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28, at
+Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done before
+she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual the kindness
+received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.'
+
+A month of strenuous labour followed, and then, on
+[Page 212]
+November 26, they said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling
+at Port Chalmers set out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage
+of their voyage. Two days later they encountered a stiff wind from
+the N. W. and a confused sea.
+
+'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the
+circumstances.
+
+'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can
+devise--and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close side
+by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together and groom
+between--swaying, swaying continually to the plunging, irregular
+motion.'
+
+Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four
+more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very
+large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4.
+A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space
+hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were
+so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they
+were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was
+contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases,
+which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the poop
+and abreast the motor sledges.
+
+Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley
+forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of
+coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between
+the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three
+dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although
+[Page 213]
+they were given as much protection as possible, their position
+was far from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion,
+'a picture of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for
+these poor creatures.'
+
+The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and
+very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water over
+the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break loose on
+the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by the loose
+coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and swung against
+the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering rams, no lashings
+could possibly have withstood them, and so the only remedy was to
+set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and re-lash the cases.
+During this difficult and dangerous task seas continually broke
+over the men, and at such times they had to cling for dear life to
+some fixture to prevent themselves from being washed overboard. No
+sooner was some appearance of order restored than another unusually
+heavy wave tore away the lashings, and the work had to be done
+allover again.
+
+As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the
+ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail
+and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.'
+
+From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night, reports
+came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their legs. But
+worse news was to follow, for in the early morning news came from
+the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and that the water had
+risen over the gratings.
+
+[Page 214]
+From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center
+of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained.
+Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck
+gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with donkey
+engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water might be
+got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes of pumping
+invariably led to the same result--a general choking of the pumps.
+
+The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger of
+becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have happened.
+The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble and its suction
+could not be reached, for as the water crept higher it got in contact
+with the boiler and eventually became so hot that no one could work
+at the suctions. A great struggle to conquer these misfortunes
+followed, but Williams had at last to confess that he was beaten
+and must draw fires.
+
+'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black.
+The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop,
+a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of
+the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on
+the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead.
+It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the lee
+rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging to the
+main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which swept
+aft and high on the poop. On one
+[Page 215]
+occasion I was waist deep when standing on the rail of the poop.'
+
+All that could be done for the time being was to organize the afterguard
+to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on the choked
+hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt to bale out
+the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets was passed
+up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous work was
+going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never for a moment
+lost their good spirits.
+
+In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the
+pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room
+bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the
+coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared
+the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which
+were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came from
+the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had been
+overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the engine-room,
+and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties were able
+to stop their labours.
+
+The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they might
+easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks of the
+ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five gallons
+of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost. Another
+dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke and he
+disappeared, but the next wave miraculously
+[Page 216]
+washed him back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again,
+but anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching
+heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these long-suffering
+animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest, and Scott's earnest
+prayer was that there might be no more gales. 'December ought to
+be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always has been, and just now
+conditions point to fine weather. Well, we must be prepared for
+anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about these animals of ours.'
+
+Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things
+straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck
+and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition to
+fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December
+6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two
+days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze
+and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater
+than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the
+effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that
+they were almost constantly wet.
+
+During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed,
+the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress
+was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they
+advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to appear.
+Yet, after the rough weather they had
+[Page 217]
+been having, the calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived
+before it was expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort
+afforded to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the
+human element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise
+in spite of the imminence of delay.'
+
+Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal was
+going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put out the
+fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all the evidence
+of former voyages had been examined so that the best meridian to go
+south on might be chosen, and the conclusion arrived at was that
+the 178 W. was the best. They entered the pack more or less on
+this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting worse conditions than
+any ship had ever experienced--worse, indeed, than Scott imagined
+to be possible on any meridian which they might have chosen. But
+as very little was known about the movements of the pack the
+difficulties of making a choice may very easily be imagined, and,
+in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that the 178 W. was
+the best meridian did not change. 'The situation of the main bodies
+of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with which the floes are
+packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing winds. One cannot
+tell what winds have prevailed before one's arrival; therefore one
+cannot know much about the situation or density. Within limits the
+density is changing from day to day and even from hour to hour; such
+changes depend on the wind, but it may not necessarily be a local
+[Page 218]
+wind, so that at times they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes
+pressing closely against one another at a given time, and an hour
+or two afterwards a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each.
+When the floes are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes
+impossible to force a way through, but when there is release of
+pressure the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag
+path.'
+
+During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at
+10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and
+got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything
+as good as this life. The novelty, interest, colour, animal life,
+and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at
+present,' one of the company wrote on that same day--an abundant
+proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with
+them.
+
+With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to progress--on
+the Monday--with much bumping and occasional stoppages, but on
+the following day they were again firmly and tightly wedged in
+the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty of the experience
+prevented any sense of impatience, though to Scott the strain of
+waiting and wondering what he ought to do as regards the question
+of coal was bound to be heavy.
+
+This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours
+of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of the
+fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations were
+also constantly
+[Page 219]
+taken, while Wilson painted some delightful pictures and Ponting
+took a number of beautiful photographs of the pack and bergs. But
+as day followed day and hopes of progress were not realized, Scott,
+anxious to be free, decided on Monday, December 19, to push west.
+'Anything to get out of these terribly heavy floes. Great patience
+is the only panacea for our ill case. It is bad luck.'
+
+Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be
+reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around them.
+And what to do under the circumstances called for most difficult
+decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead loss of two
+tons of coal when the boilers were again heated. But these two
+tons only covered a day under banked fires, so that for anything
+longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving to put out the fires.
+Thus at each stoppage Scott was called upon to decide how long it
+was likely to last.
+
+Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but
+although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry
+evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the table
+and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute two songs
+to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising circumstance,'
+Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should be so keen
+on singing.'
+
+Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect
+of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being
+that everyone was
+[Page 220]
+prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite regardless of the
+results of his labours. But on Wednesday, December 28, the ponies,
+despite the unremitting care and attention that Oates gave to them,
+were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These animals are now the great
+consideration, balanced as they are against the coal expenditure.'
+
+By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many of
+the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared to
+be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott decided
+to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once more in the
+open sea.
+
+From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during
+this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one
+tons[1] of coal had been used, an average of six miles to the ton,
+and although these were not pleasant figures to contemplate, Scott
+considered that under the exceptional conditions they might easily
+have been worse. For the ship herself he had nothing but praise to
+give. 'No other ship, not even the _Discovery_, would have come
+through so well.... As a result I have grown strangely attached
+to the _Terra Nova_. As she bumped the floes with mighty shocks,
+crushing and grinding her way through some, twisting and turning
+to avoid others, she seemed like a living thing fighting a great
+fight. If only she had more economical engines she would be suitable
+in all respects.'
+
+[Footnote 1: When the _Terra Nova_ left Lyttelton she had 460 tons
+of coal on board.]
+
+[Page 221]
+Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many
+of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their own
+specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those who
+had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find any
+kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to help
+everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has been heard
+on board. The inner life of our small community is very pleasant
+to think upon, and very wonderful considering the extremely small
+space in which we are confined. The attitude of the men is equally
+worthy of admiration. In the forecastle as in the wardroom there is
+a rush to be first when work is to be done, and the same desire to
+sacrifice selfish consideration to the success of the expedition.
+It is very good to be able to write in such high praise of one's
+companions, and I feel that the possession of such support ought
+to ensure success. Fortune would be in a hard mood indeed if it
+allowed such a combination of knowledge, experience, ability, and
+enthusiasm to achieve nothing.'
+
+Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their
+favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern blizzard
+met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind and sea
+increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at 6 A.M. ice
+was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe course would
+have been to go about and stand to the east, but on this occasion
+[Page 222]
+Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble if he could get the
+ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed a stream of ice over
+which the sea was breaking heavily, and the danger of being among
+loose floes in such a sea was acutely realized. But presently they
+came to a more compact body of floes, and running behind this they
+were agreeably surprised to find themselves in comparatively smooth
+water. There they lay to in a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous
+position had achieved one that was safe as long as their temporary
+shelter lasted.
+
+As the day passed their protection, though still saving them from
+the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean to
+depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At
+10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but
+splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in
+sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter
+from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark
+as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it.
+I believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty
+miles farther--such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.'
+
+The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress
+was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached
+the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage
+they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station
+at this Cape, and the prospect had
+[Page 223]
+seemed to become increasingly fascinating the more they talked of it.
+
+But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the whale
+boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor, Priestley,
+and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore, they discovered
+that the swell made it impossible for them to land.
+
+'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied
+us.'
+
+On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting
+and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of
+development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant, but
+fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of this
+incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out of the
+question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me, for there,
+about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the old bay ice
+about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin chick was standing
+disconsolately stranded, and close by stood one faithful old Emperor
+parent asleep. This young Emperor was still in the down, a most
+interesting fact in the bird's life history at which we had rightly
+guessed, but which no one had actually observed before.... This
+bird would have been a treasure to me, but we could not risk life
+for it, so it had to remain where it was.'
+
+Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their
+station at Cape Crozier, and this
+[Page 224]
+was all the harder to bear because every detail of the shore promised
+well for a wintering party. There were comfortable quarters for the
+hut, ice for water snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing,
+proximity to the Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins,
+good ground for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the
+Southern Road with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It
+is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a spot.'
+
+The _Discovery's_ post-office was still standing as erect as when
+it had been planted, and comparisons between what was before their
+eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed to
+have occurred anywhere--a result that in the case of the Barrier
+caused very great surprise.
+
+In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey,
+the program of which was:
+
+  Bruce continually checking speed with hand log.
+
+  Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.
+  Nelson noting results.
+
+  Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.
+  Cherry-Garrard noting results.
+
+  Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.
+  Atkinson noting results.
+
+  Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.
+  Wright noting results.
+
+  Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.
+  Drake noting results.
+
+[Page 225]
+'We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to
+the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed
+since _Discovery_ days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in
+the same place.'
+
+Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came
+in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was
+good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this
+side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such a
+familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place for
+winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the Barrier,
+and a cape, which in the _Discovery_ days had been called 'the
+Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old _Discovery_ quarters
+by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue, and I thought
+that these bays would remain frozen until late in the season, and
+that when they froze over again the ice would soon become firm.'
+
+There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw,
+as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering
+station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest
+and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most
+favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which
+was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication
+being established at an early date with Cape Armitage.[1] Not a
+moment was wasted, and while Scott was
+[Page 226]
+on shore Campbell took the first steps towards landing the stores.
+
+[Footnote 1: The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further,
+on one of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the _Discovery_
+hut.]
+
+Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the landing
+began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors were soon
+hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and the tons of
+sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories
+appeared to be in perfect condition. Then came the turn of the
+ponies, and although it was difficult to make some of them enter
+the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion and got most of them in
+by persuasion, while the ones which refused to be persuaded were
+simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all are thin and some
+few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the evident
+vitality which they still possessed--some were even skittish. I
+cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely
+picketed on the floe.'
+
+Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning, and
+ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The chief
+trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins,
+the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the proceedings and
+a total disregard for their own safety, with the result that a
+number of them were killed in spite of innumerable efforts to teach
+the penguins to keep out of reach, they only squawked and ducked
+as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass?
+Let us alone.' These incidents naturally demoralized the dogs and
+annoyed Meares, who
+[Page 227]
+while trying to stop one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs
+and was carried along until they reached the penguins of their
+desire.
+
+The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing one
+and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success, but
+they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the site
+for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped on
+shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days. Nearly
+all the timber, &c., for the hut and a supply of food for both
+ponies and dogs had also been landed.
+
+Despite this most strenuous day's labour, all hands were up again
+at 5 A.M. on Thursday.
+
+'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works
+and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the
+scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary
+scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting
+the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived
+rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly
+appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard
+weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious
+danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern
+rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this.
+I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales with
+this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting, who was
+standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and ran
+[Page 228]
+towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts, which
+had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole floe under
+him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments. One could hear
+the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the ice and struck
+it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the ice, setting
+it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and was able
+to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance also, the splits
+had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of them
+fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared our
+astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads shot
+vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made...
+There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see what had happened
+to Ponting and the dogs....
+
+'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually skirt
+the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up anyone
+who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts
+that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were
+able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2 feet), and
+that they could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear
+that they are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future
+we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.'
+
+On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they
+might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble
+had been taken to obtain
+[Page 229]
+the most suitable material for Polar work, and the three motor
+sledge tractors were the outcome of experiments made at Lantaret in
+France and at Lillehammer and Fefor in Norway, with sledges built
+by the Wolseley Motor Company from suggestions offered principally
+by B. T. Hamilton, R. W. Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted
+objection to cruelty in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and
+almost pathetic, desire that these sledges should be successful;
+over and over again he expressed his hopes and fears of them.
+
+With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard,
+the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the
+only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the
+cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the
+necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday the
+third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott, leaving
+Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started for the
+shore with a single man load.
+
+Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that
+it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the
+ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the
+machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through; and
+while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was seen to
+give, and slowly the machine went right through and disappeared.
+The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the rope, but it
+cut through the ice towards them with an increasing strain,
+[Page 230]
+and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half a minute
+later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the two best
+motors was lying at the bottom of the sea.
+
+The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was clear
+that those who were on shore were practically cut off from the
+ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to the
+north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near
+ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to
+Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way along
+the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen.
+
+A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again the
+work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In this
+Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single case
+he did not know nor a single article on which he could not at once
+place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was checked
+by him.
+
+On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound,
+the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of
+Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on
+board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last
+we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We
+are LANDED eight days after our arrival--a very good record.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 231]
+CHAPTER II
+
+DEPOT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP
+
+  And the deed of high endeavour
+    Was no more to the favoured few.
+  But brain and heart were the measure
+    Of what every man might do.
+      RENNELL RODD.
+
+While the landing was being carried out, the building party had
+worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could
+have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small
+party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to
+serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the
+cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable
+quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and
+Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut.
+
+In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott
+could begin to think about the depot journey. The arrangements
+of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation
+he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once,
+and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.'
+
+Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal:
+[Page 232]
+'He (Scott) wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie
+Evans, and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice
+of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men.
+It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it
+is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead
+of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate....
+About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so
+many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my
+own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice
+towards the end and a most keen competition--_and_ a universal
+lack of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete absence of
+any jealous feeling in any single one of any of the comparatively
+large number who at present stand a chance of being on the last piece
+next summer.... I have never been thrown in with a more unselfish
+lot of men--each one doing his utmost fair and square in the most
+cheery manner possible.'
+
+Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10
+A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott
+read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but
+unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not
+fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the two
+allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior animals. At
+this time the party to be led by Campbell was known as the Eastern
+Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing on King
+[Page 233]
+Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north part of
+Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern Party.
+Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is evident, but
+in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it like the gentleman
+he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.'
+
+On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine
+dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started
+to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old _Discovery_ hut, a
+most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin they
+found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the hut for
+shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state.
+
+'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such
+a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old
+comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I
+went to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression
+of civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this
+should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and
+finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate
+predecessors oppressed me horribly.'
+
+After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found
+much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely
+cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost
+bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and
+on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare
+[Page 234]
+tableland. The paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible
+on the cross put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if
+it had just been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down
+it could with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in
+the afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans,
+and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut.
+
+'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is
+really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest
+that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and
+roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation on
+both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings weighs
+six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore and the
+result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst the total
+weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the time and attention
+given to its planning.
+
+'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain spare
+clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a solid stable
+to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present these animals
+are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow close by, above
+them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the dogs extend in other
+long lines. Behind them again is a most convenient slab of hard
+ice in which we have dug two caverns. The first is a larder now
+fully stocked with seals, penguins, mutton, and beef. The other
+is devoted to science in the shape of differential magnetic
+[Page 235]
+instruments which will keep a constant photographic record of magnetic
+changes. Outside these caverns is another little hut for absolute
+magnetic observations, and above them on a small hill, the dominant
+miniature peak of the immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological
+instruments and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack.
+
+'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill on
+a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision cases
+ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping the ice-foot
+below, you will have some idea of our immediate vicinity. As for
+our wider surroundings it would be difficult to describe their
+beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape Evans is one of the
+many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands closest under the
+mountain, so that always towering above us we have the grand snowy
+peak with its smoking summit. North and south of us are deep bays,
+beyond which great glaciers come rippling over the lower slopes
+to thrust high blue-walled snouts into the sea. The sea is blue
+before us, dotted with shining bergs or ice floes, whilst far over
+the Sound, yet so bold and magnificent as to appear near, stand
+the beautiful Western Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks,
+their deep glacial valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain
+scenery that can have few rivals.
+
+'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the
+most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and most
+of the night
+[Page 236]
+in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera and cinematograph.
+
+'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of
+its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity
+of the mansion.
+
+'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9)
+the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of cases
+containing things which suffer from being frozen.
+
+'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and next it
+on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his instruments, and
+on the other a space devoted to charts, chronometers and instruments
+generally.
+
+'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans
+have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five
+beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and
+Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space
+opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a
+bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space
+set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a 12-foot
+table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs....
+
+'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely
+comfortable and conveniently placed for his work--in fact we could
+not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will have a small
+enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home. We shall be
+away sledding late this year and off again
+[Page 237]
+early next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that
+such comfort awaits our return.'
+
+So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound
+they had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon
+their depot journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly
+from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however,
+required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect
+of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated
+a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding
+gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers,
+sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the
+stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality. 'Our
+clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running through
+the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride that there
+is not a single arrangement which I would have had altered....
+Everything looks hopeful for the depot journey if only we can get
+our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a serious
+suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report that the
+_Terra Nova_ was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape, saw at
+once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable position.
+
+Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in
+his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of
+him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete
+disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one
+[Page 238]
+consolation in determining that, whatever happened, nothing should
+interfere with the southern work.
+
+The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of
+the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she
+struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously
+from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no
+ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly,
+and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that
+an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling
+produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again
+to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had
+been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent,
+but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was
+getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she gathered
+stern way and was clear.
+
+'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and
+she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I hope
+the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here and now
+I must record the splendid manner in which these men are working.
+I find it difficult to express my admiration for the manner in
+which the ship is handled and worked under these very trying
+circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me about it to-night;
+I think I like him more every day.'
+
+On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue and
+satisfied themselves that the ice
+[Page 239]
+was good; and with the 25th fixed for the date of departure it was
+not too much to hope that the ice would remain for three or four
+more days. The ponies for Campbell's party were put on board on
+the 22nd, but when Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning
+he saw, to his astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay
+in a solid mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and
+a wonderful day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges
+and equipment were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed;
+in short everything to do with the depot party was hurriedly put
+on board except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and try
+to get over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th.
+
+The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication between
+the new station at Cape Evans and the _Discovery_ hut, for the
+rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island prevented
+a passage by land. The Road provided level going below the cliffs
+of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending glacier;
+and there it was necessary to cross the body of the glacier itself.
+It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays and the sea-ice
+along the coast, which only stayed fast for the season. Thus it
+was most important to get safely over the dangerous part of this
+Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To wait until
+after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut Point would
+have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well enough that
+the Road might not hold for many more hours,
+[Page 240]
+and it actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed.
+
+Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott
+and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led
+out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test the
+track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to inspect
+Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities of
+sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c. &c.; but
+the _piece de resistance_ was the capture of several bucketsful
+of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been previously
+caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it alone repays
+the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the ship skirted the Island,
+and with a telescope those on board could watch the string of ponies
+steadily progressing over the sea-ice past the Razor Back Islands;
+and, as soon as they were seen to be well advanced, the ship steamed
+on to the Glacier Tongue, and made fast in the narrow angle made
+by the sea-ice with the glacier.
+
+Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on
+the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without
+much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier,
+and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But when
+Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30 feet
+across, it was evident that they must get past it on the glacier,
+and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks.
+
+[Page 241]
+Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to start
+again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their loads having
+already been taken on the floe. At first all went well, but when
+the animals got down on the floe level and Oates led across an
+old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at the edge and
+sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it sank deeper and
+deeper until only its head and forelegs showed above the slush.
+With some trouble ropes were attached to these, and the poor animal,
+looking very weak and miserable, was eventually pulled out.
+
+After this experience the other five ponies were led farther round
+to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small feed was
+given to them, and then they were started off with their loads.
+
+The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting
+on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed to
+security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott, writing
+from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All have arrived
+safely, and this evening we start our sledges south. I expect we
+shall have to make three relays to get all our stores on to the
+Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land a geologising
+party on the west side of the Sound, and then to proceed to King
+Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.'
+
+The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham, Wright,
+and P.O. Evans, and for reasons
+[Page 242]
+already mentioned the Eastern party were eventually known as the
+Northern party.
+
+On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier
+and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one team
+of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on the
+following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the men
+had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work.
+
+'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never
+sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all
+these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily
+trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed
+their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward.
+God bless them.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's
+party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story
+of their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of
+Campbell, Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and
+the courage shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless
+difficulties and privations has met with the unstinted admiration
+that it most thoroughly deserved.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+For the depot laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12 men
+(Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans, Gran,
+Meares, Forde,
+[Page 243]
+Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs. Of the dogs
+he felt at this time more than a little doubtful, but the ponies
+were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They work with such
+extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and cheerfully,
+following in each other's tracks. The great drawback is the ease
+with which they sink in soft snow: they go through in lots of places
+where the men scarcely make an impression--they struggle pluckily
+when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.'
+
+In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to
+complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained
+to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labour of this day
+tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the next
+day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs of
+breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the situation.
+In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they got into
+better condition, began to do excellent work. During Sunday they
+ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the Barrier to
+the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depot. 'I don't
+think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but it's just
+as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp must deserve
+its distinctive title of "Safety."'
+
+By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely
+handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable
+account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of
+[Page 244]
+trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs....
+Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble
+of that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole a
+few yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him before
+one can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the whip--and
+everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness of the dog
+next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that takes much
+patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the whole team should
+get away with the sledge and its load, and leave one behind....
+I never did get left the whole of this depot journey, but I was
+often very near it, and several times had only time to seize a
+strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged along helter-skelter
+over everything that came in the way, till the team got sick of
+galloping and one could struggle to one's feet again. One gets
+very wary and wide-awake when one has to manage a team of eleven
+dogs and a sledge load by oneself, but it was a most interesting
+experience, and I had a delightful leader, "Stareek" by name--Russian
+for "Old Man," and he was the most wise old man.... Dog driving
+like this in the orthodox manner is a very different thing from
+the beastly dog driving we perpetrated in the _Discovery_ days....
+I got to love all my team and they got to know me well.... Stareek
+is quite a ridiculous "old man" and quite the nicest, quietest,
+cleverest old dog I have ever come across. He looks in face as
+if he knew all the wickedness of all the world
+[Page 245]
+and all its cares, and as if he were bored to death by them.'
+
+When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until they
+started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we must
+travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous than
+successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great difficulty
+in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott disclosed
+his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with five weeks'
+food for men and animals, then to depot a fortnight's supply after
+twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp. The loads for
+ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little over 600 lbs.,
+and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from sledges. Whether
+the ponies could manage these loads depended on the surface, and there
+was a great possibility that the dogs would have to be lightened,
+but under the circumstances it was the best plan they could hope
+to carry out.
+
+On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair
+of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect. In
+places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he strolled
+round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately after this
+experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made to get more
+snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson had started,
+on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to the station
+twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned with the news
+that there was no
+[Page 246]
+possibility of reaching Cape Evans, and an additional stroke of
+bad fortune fell when Atkinson's foot, which had been troublesome
+for some time, was examined and found to be so bad that he had
+to be left behind with Crean as a companion.
+
+Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,'
+Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter
+station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the
+Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with
+all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we
+find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent
+a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies,
+but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned
+this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right
+sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year
+is a help for next.'
+
+[Illustration: PONY CAMP ON THE BARRIER. _Photo by Capt. R. F. Scott._]
+
+At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after
+marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes,
+he found that they had been left behind, and Gran--whose expertness
+on ski was most useful--immediately volunteered to go back and get
+them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's suggestion
+they had decided to take to night marching. And so at 12.30 A.M.
+they started off once more on a surface that was bad at first but
+gradually improved, until just before camping time Bowers, who was
+leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several of the others,
+following close behind
+[Page 247]
+him, shared the same fate, and soon three ponies were plunging
+and struggling in a drift, and had to be unharnessed and led round
+from patch to patch until firmer ground was reached.
+
+Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put on
+Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he settled
+down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only that but
+also another over places into which he had previously been plunging.
+Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great help to their
+work had been left behind at the station, and it was all the more
+trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed in the snow, and
+panting and heaving from the strain, when the remedies for his
+state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible to reach.
+
+During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies, on
+a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of bad
+weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on Saturday
+a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp for three
+days. 'No fun to be out of the tent--but there are no shirkers with
+us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the ponies; Meares and
+Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us as occasion required.'
+
+The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but when
+it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the effects
+of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished the march
+listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner.
+[Page 248]
+But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load
+was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and led
+his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would soon
+improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to be kept
+alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the journey would
+have to be curtailed.
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be stronger.
+'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott wrote on
+Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for the day an
+account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of our sleeping-bags
+about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout to the Soldier[1] "How
+are things?" There is a response suggesting readiness, and soon
+after figures are busy amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling
+work for the fingers and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come
+off the animals, the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment
+are loaded on the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one
+by one the animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to
+the sledge. Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep
+such a nervous creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt
+one feels impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy
+fellows. Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and
+ends.
+
+[Footnote 1: Oates.]
+
+'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few
+pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking their
+tent. With numbed fingers on
+[Page 249]
+our horse's bridle and the animal striving to turn its head from
+the wind one feels resentful. At last all is ready. One says "All
+right, Bowers, go ahead," and Birdie leads his big animal forward,
+starting, as he continues, at a steady pace. The horses have got
+cold and at the word they are off, the Soldier's and one or two
+others with a rush. Finnesko give poor foothold on the slippery
+sastrugi,[1] and for a minute or two drivers have some difficulty
+in maintaining the pace on their feet. Movement is warming, and
+in ten minutes the column has settled itself to steady marching.
+
+[Footnote 1: Irregularities formed by the wind on a snow-plain.]
+
+'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or
+another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone.
+These are the only real incidents of the march--for the rest it
+passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. The
+weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon up in
+line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a single
+halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop long
+and a very few minutes found us on the go again.
+
+'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle.
+Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his tent
+mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the picket
+lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two other
+sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we are
+drawn up in camp formation. The picket
+[Page 250]
+lines are run across at right angles to the line of advance and
+secured to the two sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies
+are on the lines covered, tents up again and cookers going.
+
+'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp,
+have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks.
+They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after
+our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into
+an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp
+forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and
+within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags....
+At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow
+walls and improving their rugs, &c.
+
+A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult,
+and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed
+signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday
+morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had
+to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to
+play an important part in the future. By this time three of the
+ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott
+decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them.
+
+Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard, and
+Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by Bowers'
+imperviousness to
+[Page 251]
+cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful. Throughout the night he
+has worn no head-gear but a common green felt hat kept on with a
+chin-stay and affording no cover whatever for the ears. His face
+and ears remain bright red. The rest of us were glad to have thick
+Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have never seen anyone so unaffected
+by the cold. To-night he remained outside a full hour after the
+rest of us had got into the tent. He was simply pottering about
+the camp doing small jobs to the sledges, &c. Cherry-Garrard is
+remarkable because of his eyes. He can only see through glasses
+and has to wrestle with all sorts of inconveniences in consequence.
+Yet one could never guess it--for he manages somehow to do more
+than his share of the work.'
+
+Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so
+bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and the
+soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps and
+made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they struggled
+on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace, and when they
+were three-quarters of a mile behind the others the dog teams (which
+always left the camp after the others) overtook them. Then the dogs
+got out of hand and attacked Weary Willy, who put up a sterling
+fight but was bitten rather badly before Meares and Gran could
+drive off the dogs. Afterwards it was discovered that Weary Willy's
+load was much heavier than that of the other ponies, and an attempt
+to continue the march had quickly
+[Page 252]
+to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some compensation
+for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large snow wall, and
+some extra sacking, and on the following day he showed appreciation
+of these favors by a marked improvement. Bowers' pony, however,
+refused work for the first time, and Oates was more despondent
+than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to see that this is a
+characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays every attention to
+the weaker horses.'
+
+No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers'
+pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn
+back on the following day. During the last march out the temperature
+fell to -21 deg. with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were
+frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely,
+but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to
+feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing
+such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will
+find spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the
+point of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which
+gives him much trouble--this is the worse prospect for summit work.
+I have been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, this cold
+spell gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but one must be
+prepared for a pretty good doing.'
+
+The depot was built during the next day, February 17, Lat. 79 deg. 29'
+S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed.
+
+[Page 253]
+Stores left in depot:
+
+   lbs.
+   245   7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit
+    12   2 days' provision bags for 1 unit
+     8   8 weeks' tea
+    31   6 weeks' extra butter
+   176   lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit)
+    85   8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit)
+   850   5 sacks of oats
+   424   4 bales of fodder
+   250   Tank of dog biscuit
+   100   2 cases of biscuit
+  ----
+  2181
+
+         1  skein white line
+         1  set breast harness
+         2  12 ft. sledges
+         2  pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks
+         1  _Minimum Thermometer_[1]
+         1  tin Rowntree cocoa
+         1  tin matches
+
+[Footnote 1: See page 337.]
+
+Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80 deg., he was satisfied that they
+had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed the
+ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff
+and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes
+to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the
+sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The depot cairn
+was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party had
+the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to show
+up for many miles.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 254]
+CHAPTER III
+
+PERILS
+
+                ...Yet I argue not
+  Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot
+  Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer
+  Right onward.
+    MILTON.
+
+On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard
+went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates
+and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent marches
+were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as Scott was
+to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened to the
+other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied with the
+daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came in their
+rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a most
+serious disaster.
+
+The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday
+night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could
+be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an
+hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined
+[Page 255]
+pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the teams
+were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams driven by
+Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,' Cherry-Garrard
+says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after another, like
+dogs going down a hole after a rat.'
+
+In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished
+from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader,
+put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold.
+The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and
+Meares jumped aside.
+
+In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually been
+traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had stopped
+on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss. 'Why the
+sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall never know.
+I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must have taken us
+down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear of the bridge
+and anchored, they peered into the depths of the cracks. The dogs,
+suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions, were howling dismally
+and almost frantic with terror. Two of them had dropped out of
+their harness and, far below, could be seen indistinctly on a
+snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the chain had bitten deep
+into the snow at the side of the crevasse and with the weight below
+could not possibly be moved.
+
+By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and Cherry-Garrard,
+the latter hurriedly
+[Page 256]
+bringing the Alpine rope, the exact position of which on the sledge
+he most fortunately knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the
+team was not by any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt
+failed. In spite of their determined efforts they could get not
+an inch on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope,
+which with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the
+snow.
+
+Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a definite
+plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent, cooker, and
+sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then Scott, seizing
+the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the tent-poles across
+the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get a few inches on the
+leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness was immediately cut.
+The next step was to secure the leading rope to the main trace and
+haul up together. By this means one dog was rescued and unlashed,
+but the rope already had cut so far back at the edge that efforts
+to get more of it were useless.
+
+[Illustration: SNOWED-UP TENT AFTER THREE DAYS' BLIZZARD. _Photo
+by Lieut. T. Gran._]
+
+'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should
+have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap
+and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and
+pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored trace
+while the others worked at the leader end. The leading rope, however,
+was so very small that Scott was afraid of its breaking, and Meares
+was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope to the leading end of
+[Page 257]
+the trace; when this had been done the chance of rescuing the dogs
+at once began to improve.
+
+Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen
+were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other
+dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see
+if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled.
+The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the
+depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and
+insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm,
+and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the
+surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose
+above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to
+stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams.
+
+'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three
+of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end.
+That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he
+never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them.
+When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring,
+but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this is
+running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."'
+
+For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it
+was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated
+themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott
+and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed
+[Page 258]
+outright, but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful
+signs of recovery after their terrible experience.
+
+On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were
+as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed a
+very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is certain,
+the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with men sitting
+on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the teams and the
+Russian custom must be dropped.'
+
+At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to Scott's
+great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return journey. Forde
+had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher, and although the
+greatest care had also been given to Blossom, both of them were
+left on the Southern Road. The remaining one of the three, James
+Pigg, had managed not only to survive but actually to thrive, and,
+severe as the loss of the two ponies was, some small consolation
+could be gained from the fact that they were the oldest of the
+team, and the two which Oates considered to be the least useful.
+
+After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard and
+Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished to
+find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable, no
+one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag containing
+a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But presently what
+turned out to be the true
+[Page 259]
+solution of this curious state of affairs was guessed, namely, that
+Atkinson and Crean had been on their way from the hut to Safety
+Camp as the others had come from the camp to the hut, and later
+on Scott saw their sledge track leading round on the sea-ice.
+
+Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened
+to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round Cape
+Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety Camp,
+but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred yards
+of their destination that they saw three tents instead of two,
+and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner, however,
+had Scott received his letters than his feelings of relief were
+succeeded by sheer astonishment.
+
+'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents
+of the mail bag which Atkinson gave me--a letter from Campbell
+setting out his doings and the finding of _Amundsen_ established
+in the Bay of Whales.
+
+'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper, as
+well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as though
+this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for the honour
+of the country without fear or panic.
+
+'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace
+to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles--I never
+thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to the ice. His
+[Page 260]
+plan for running them seems excellent. But above and beyond all he
+can start his journey early in the season--an impossible condition
+with ponies.'
+
+The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had, after
+landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point, proceeded along
+the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across Amundsen camped in
+the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however, for Campbell's party
+could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was a great disappointment
+to us all, but there was nothing for it but to return to McMurdo
+Sound to communicate with the main party, and then try to effect a
+landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet or as far to the westward
+as possible on the north coast of Victoria Land, and if possible
+to explore the unknown coast west of Cape North. We therefore made
+the best of our way to Cape Evans, and arrived on the evening of
+the 8th. Here I decided to land the two ponies, as they would be
+very little use to us on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land,
+and in view of the Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party
+would require all the transport available. After landing the ponies
+we steamed up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there,
+taking Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point,
+where the depot party would call on their way back.'
+
+Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news which
+was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he refused
+to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans.
+
+[Page 261]
+Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and
+Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and
+Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and
+Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James Pigg,
+started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out and saw
+a short black line on the horizon towards White Island. Presently
+he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions, but they
+were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp; so when the
+latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers, but was glad to
+see five pony walls and consequently to know that all the animals
+were still alive.
+
+Having depoted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard
+and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James Pigg
+by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in the
+tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday did
+Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were without
+exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially in
+a pitiable condition.
+
+As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp, arrangements
+were made immediately for a general shift to Hut Point, and about
+four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson and Meares got
+safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to start, the plan
+being for them to follow in the tracks of the dogs; the route was
+over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing to the spread of
+water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious.
+
+[Page 262]
+At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight
+was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on
+with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott,
+with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the sick
+pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy died
+during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start _necessary for
+next year_,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1, but
+on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of the
+past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only one
+comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.'
+
+Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates
+and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage depot, which was
+at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge, in a S.S.E.
+direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky looked black
+and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes loomed out
+ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the strange
+optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew close
+to the depot all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full of broken
+pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew to the ponies
+and dogs.
+
+They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a
+working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in
+line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first
+thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling
+[Page 263]
+back from Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran
+went to the depot with a note as Oates and I disconsolately thought
+out the situation. I thought to myself that if either party had
+reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would
+immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By this
+time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour passed,
+and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that two specks
+in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.'
+
+When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered them
+to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him, because
+they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary Willy had
+upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming reports
+that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice.
+
+The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs began
+very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left Safety Camp
+with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge of the Barrier,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs were on ahead and we
+saw them turn and make right round Cape Armitage. "Uncle Bill"
+got done, and I took up the dog tracks which we followed over the
+tide crack and well on towards Cape Armitage.
+
+'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after fresh
+crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching through
+for many feet on both
+[Page 264]
+sides. We all thought it impossible to proceed and turned back....
+The ponies began to get very done, and Bowers decided to get back
+over the tide crack, find a snowy place, and camp.
+
+'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed
+to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have been
+with the ponies.
+
+'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers
+cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a long
+time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt very bad
+for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all his. Otherwise
+we had a good meal.
+
+'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside
+down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers went
+out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened by a grinding
+sound, jumped up, and found the situation as follows:--
+
+'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to
+thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think
+about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe, and
+"Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to us all
+and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks. We packed
+anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker. It seemed
+to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said so, but Bowers
+decided to try.
+
+'We decided that to go towards White Island
+[Page 265]
+looked best, and for five hours traveled in the following way:--we
+jumped the ponies over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then
+man-hauled the sledges after them, then according to the size of the
+floe sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled
+the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I should
+think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.'
+
+At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the
+Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get
+up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere
+off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to try
+and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and leaping
+from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with the help of
+his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It was a desperate
+venture, but luckily successful.'
+
+And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing
+the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen
+rapidly making for the depot from the west.
+
+As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the situation
+he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares, and started
+with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of the mishap. A
+halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions and oil, and
+then, marching carefully round, they approached the ice-edge, and to
+their joy caught sight of Bowers and Cherry-Garrard. With the help
+[Page 266]
+of the Alpine rope both the men were dragged to the surface, and
+after camp had been pitched at a safe distance from the edge all
+hands started upon salvage work. The ice at this time lay close and
+quiet against the Barrier edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and
+Cherry-Garrard had been hauled up, the sledges and their contents
+were safely on the Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were
+saved, the ice began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing
+could be done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon
+their floes.
+
+'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were
+dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30
+yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast
+we discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor
+their floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It
+was a sad moment.'
+
+Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced
+that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed
+and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the
+poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life. Then
+there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge and
+discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable way to
+land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought, tried to
+leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually we had to
+kill him--it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed out my
+[Page 267]
+road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and worked
+their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with them on
+the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought we should
+get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump and plunged into
+the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice-- killer whales
+all about us in an intense state of excitement. The poor animal
+couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to kill it. These
+incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday, March 2), we
+sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to the one I had
+just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our sad journey to
+Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss of our ponies,
+but mercifully with all the party alive and well.'
+
+At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only
+three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this
+physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E. Evans
+and his party were safe; but while they were camping that night
+on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well, came
+in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut Point
+in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran, who were
+looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in trying to
+make two sleeping-bags do the work of three.
+
+On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing
+and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep in the
+bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were cut off from
+[Page 268]
+any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze over,
+and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up a
+small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire
+for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not
+much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also
+with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his
+sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party
+to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing
+in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we
+couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work. There
+were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in _Discovery_
+days, and with these we built up a small inner hut to live in.'
+
+On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on
+Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have
+all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James
+Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on the
+depot journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition there was
+reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had not happened.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 269]
+CHAPTER IV
+
+A HAPPY FAMILY
+
+  By mutual confidence and mutual aid
+  Great deeds are done and great discoveries made.
+    ANON.
+
+With the certainty of having to stay in the _Discovery_ hut for
+some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable
+as possible. With packing-cases a large _L_-shaped inner apartment
+was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty kerosene
+tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent little stove
+which was connected to the old stove-pipe.
+
+As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available,
+and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and Wilson
+found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out and was
+crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party as much
+meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary for our
+comfort and only need a little more experience to make the best of
+our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which everyone
+is learning the ropes, and the resource which
+[Page 270]
+is being shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful
+suggestions and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower
+of strength in checking the ill-usage of clothes--what I have come
+to regard as the greatest danger with Englishmen.'
+
+On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased in
+force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which drove
+the _Discovery_ ashore. The blizzard continued until noon on Tuesday,
+on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith Taylor, Wright,
+Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut after a successful
+trip.
+
+Two days later another depot party started to Corner Camp, E. Evans,
+Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard
+and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting of Wright to join
+in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.'
+
+During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were constantly
+being increased, but continuous bad weather was both depressing
+to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort had been
+made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of wind made
+it impossible to give them shelter in all directions. At least
+five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen others were
+by no means strong, but whether because they were constitutionally
+harder or whether better fitted by nature to protect themselves
+the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit as they could be.
+As it was found to be impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in
+the traces, the majority
+[Page 271]
+of them were allowed to run loose; for although Scott feared that
+this freedom would mean that there would be some fights to the
+death, he thought it preferable to the risk of losing the animals
+by keeping them on the leash. The main difficulty with them was
+that when the ice once got thoroughly into the coats their hind
+legs became half paralyzed with cold, but by allowing them to run
+loose it was hoped that they would be able to free themselves of
+this serious trouble. 'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind
+to us. This month will have sad memories. Still I suppose things
+might be worse; the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly
+well....'
+
+The depot party returned to the hut on March 23, but though the
+sea by this time showed symptoms of _wanting_ to freeze, there was
+no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day. Stock
+therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements were made
+for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A week later the
+ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of Hut Point, but
+the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island still refused to
+freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began to think that they might
+not be able to get back to Cape Evans before May. Soon afterwards,
+however, the sea began to freeze over completely, and on Thursday
+evening, April 6, a program, subject to the continuance of good
+weather, was arranged for a shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels good,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to have something doing in the air.' But
+the weather prevented them from starting on the appointed day,
+[Page 272]
+and although Scott was most anxious to get back and see that all was
+well at Cape Evans, the comfort achieved in the old hut was so great
+that he confessed himself half-sorry to leave it.
+
+Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around the
+fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter and
+a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. After
+lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt a long
+stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter.
+
+'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again
+with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival
+one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver....
+Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night--or nearly
+every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has proved a
+genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his reputation.
+He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber, suggesting that
+the latter could be freed from all rankness.... The "fry" proved
+redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that peculiar flavour
+which faintly lingers in the meat and should not be emphasized.
+Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the rest of us decided
+to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after tasting the first
+mouthful.[1]
+
+[Footnote 1: Wilson, referring to this incident in his Journal,
+showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over a fry I made in my new
+penguin lard. It was quite a success and tasted like very bad sardine
+oil.']
+
+'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking
+[Page 273]
+and conversation--a cheering, pleasant hour--in which reminiscences
+are exchanged by a company which has very literally had world-wide
+experience. There is scarce a country under the sun which one or
+another of us has not traveled in, so diverse are our origins and
+occupations.
+
+'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone
+can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a
+few would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which
+goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly
+healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke,
+appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.'
+
+On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the
+party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one
+tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another; Wilson
+being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde, Keohane,
+Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard.
+
+In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became
+evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending,
+and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs. Seven
+and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks, a very
+icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light became
+bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time. Half an
+hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to the ice
+cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock
+[Page 274]
+and Erebus all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear
+track to the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there
+no low place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer
+drop), and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to
+drift off the ridge a quick decision had to be made.
+
+Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to
+work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered.
+Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder
+of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and
+speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without serious
+frost-bites.
+
+The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very
+heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A stiff
+incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was failing
+and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell in with
+considerable risk of damage. The north side, however, was well
+snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice cliff in which
+a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under the circumstances
+Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but darkness suddenly fell
+upon them, and after very heavy pulling for many hours they were
+so totally unable to see anything ahead, that at 10 P.M. they were
+compelled to pitch their camp under little Razor Back Island. During
+the night the wind began to rise, and in the morning a roaring
+blizzard was blowing, and obviously the ice on which they had pitched
+[Page 275]
+their camp was none too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull,
+until at 3 P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result
+that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under
+the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours,
+but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer
+from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied
+down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the
+wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening;
+we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only one
+more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to get than
+on the previous night, because they knew that they were no longer
+in danger of being swept out to sea.
+
+The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning the
+party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen clothes
+were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only two miles,
+and after some very hard pulling they arrived off the point and
+found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It was a very great
+relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well.'
+
+In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility
+of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that no
+heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; secondly,
+that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack which would
+damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well protected by
+the Barne Glacier; and, lastly,
+[Page 276]
+that the beach itself showed no signs of having been swept by the
+sea. When, however, the hut had been erected and he found that its
+foundation was only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice,
+he could not rid himself entirely of misgivings.
+
+As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not
+until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious
+he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been
+in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the
+ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself
+of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal
+swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the
+small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was
+mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen
+by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants
+(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton
+and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute
+the most important events of the quiet station life were told, the
+worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and one dog
+had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked admirably,
+and the scientific routine of observations was in full swing.
+
+After their primitive life at the _Discovery_ hut the interior
+space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort
+luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to enjoy
+the first bath for three months, and have contact with clean, dry
+[Page 277]
+clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom soon banished
+their delight) are the treasured remembrance of every Polar traveler.'
+Not for many hours or even minutes, however, was Scott in the hut
+before he was taken round to see in detail the transformation that
+had taken place in his absence, and in which a very proper pride
+was taken by those who had created it.
+
+First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous
+shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments, electric
+batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the tickings of many
+clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally the trembling note
+of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me days and even months
+to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific
+accuracy with which he was achieving them.'
+
+From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection
+into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography had
+never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely without
+them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of negatives and
+prints can only be justified by the quality of the work produced in
+it, and is only justified in our case by such an artist as Ponting.'
+
+From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared,
+to their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing
+note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid
+tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements
+[Page 278]
+of the hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried
+out with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next,
+and Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown
+by Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was
+called in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that
+he was capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases,
+I was less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had
+considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his attention
+to pots and pans.'
+
+The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals,
+and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that
+some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated
+fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the
+ten remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the
+furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective.
+
+Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it
+was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not
+only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been
+built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions,
+in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were
+almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that
+had assailed him on the homeward route.
+
+Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the
+comforts of Cape Evans, as on
+[Page 279]
+Monday, April 17, they were off again to Hut Point with two 10-foot
+sledges, a week's provisions of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal,
+&c., for the hut. Scott, Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first
+sledge; Bowers, Nelson, Crean and Hooper the second; and after a
+rather adventurous journey, in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp
+work as of old,' they reached Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following
+day, and found everyone well and in good spirits. The party left at
+the hut were, however, very short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety,
+because until the sea froze over there was no possibility of getting
+the ponies back to Cape Evans. But three seals were reported on
+the Wednesday and promptly killed, and so Scott, satisfied that
+this stock was enough for twelve days, resolved to go back as soon
+as the weather would allow him.
+
+Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with
+the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson,
+Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the
+homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott,
+Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates,
+Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the leaders,
+and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with the second
+sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean declared
+that although the loads were equal there was a great difference
+in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented when I
+voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party thought it the
+[Page 280]
+plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like proof, and he
+readily assented to change sledges. The difference was really
+extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight compared with
+the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters regardless
+of how much we perspired.'
+
+All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked through,
+and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice fell upon
+the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief and showed
+the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold, however,
+was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish of rice
+and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was at an
+end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses they had
+sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson, Oates, Atkinson
+and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut since it had been
+fitted out, were astonished at its comfort.
+
+On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point,
+the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun.
+Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Hooper,
+Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton, but in
+making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning that those
+who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead them in the
+spring.
+
+Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally busy
+unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators. Wright
+began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates started to
+make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard employed himself
+[Page 281]
+in building a stone house for taxidermy and with a view to getting
+hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during the winter, while Taylor
+and Debenham took advantage of the last of the light to examine
+the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans surveyed the Cape and
+its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in addition to their
+other work, spent hours over balloon experiments. In fact everyone
+was overflowing with energy.
+
+On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back
+from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for
+good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice;
+and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of
+every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously,
+however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that could
+not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter steadily
+progressed.
+
+At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of the
+_South Polar Times_ and the following notice was issued:
+
+  The first number of the _South Polar Times_ will be published
+  on Midwinter Day.
+
+  All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously,
+  and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible.
+  No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31.
+
+  A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not
+  intended that the paper shall be too scientific.
+
+[Page 282]
+  Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing.
+  Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration
+  are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible.
+
+                                     The Editor,
+                                            _S. P. T._
+
+The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required
+a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he
+would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were
+fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar
+literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake.
+
+On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of winter
+lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and in turn
+Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured on their
+special subjects. But still the _Discovery_ hut party did not appear,
+although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over for nearly a
+week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that they would return.
+In the meantime there was work and to spare for everyone, and as
+the days went by Scott was also given ample opportunities to get
+a thorough knowledge of his companions.
+
+'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so
+demonstrative of character as that which we had on these expeditions.
+One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under ordinary conditions
+it is so easy to carry a point with a little bounce; self-assertion
+is a mask which covers many a weakness....
+[Page 283]
+Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that
+counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them. Pretence
+is useless.
+
+'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and colour box, rapidly and steadily
+adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at intervals filling
+the gaps in his zoological work of _Discovery_ times; withal ready
+and willing to give advice and assistance to others at all times;
+his sound judgment appreciated and therefore a constant referee.
+
+'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers
+at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations
+are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.'
+
+'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his mind
+with the ice problems of this wonderful region...'
+
+And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E.
+Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and
+conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly
+the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of gratitude.
+
+'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working
+of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all
+arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly adjusted
+to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing the
+length of time which each of our possessions will last us and the
+assurance that there can be no waste.
+[Page 284]
+Active mind and active body were never more happily blended. It
+is a restless activity admitting no idle moments and ever budding
+into new forms.
+
+'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he
+is away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such
+a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out
+again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because for
+the moment there is no one else to care for these animals.... He
+is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any discomfort
+from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with equal profit.
+For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding food and
+clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an authority
+on past records. This will be no small help to me and one which
+others never could have given.
+
+'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly
+pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world.
+The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are
+his field of labour.... His bench with its array of microscopes,
+etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater
+part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic
+enthusiasm....
+
+'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet
+workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness
+to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places;
+sound all through and pretty hard also....
+
+'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really
+[Page 285]
+devoted to their care, and I believe will produce them in the best
+possible form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores,
+installing a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his
+satellite, Anton, is ever at work in the stables--an excellent
+little man.
+
+'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt
+boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is
+no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness.
+
+On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline
+of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the
+problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on
+the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general
+agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed
+to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the
+problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any
+suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be a
+tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.'
+
+At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were returning,
+and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and reported that
+the ponies were not far behind. For more than three weeks the weather
+at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and fine, and with joy
+Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking remarkably well, and
+that the two ponies also seemed to have improved. 'It is a great
+comfort to have the men and dogs back, and a greater to
+[Page 286]
+contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled for the winter.
+Everything seems to depend on these animals.'
+
+With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and games
+of football--when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers to get their
+toes frost-bitten--in the afternoons, the winter passed steadily on
+its way; the only stroke of misfortune being that one of the dogs
+died suddenly and that a post-mortem did not reveal any sufficient
+cause of death. This was the third animal that had died without
+apparent reason at winter-quarters, and Scott became more than
+ever convinced that to place any confidence in the dog teams would
+be a mistake.
+
+On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans
+and Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted
+of a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels--
+and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions.
+The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity
+of provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the
+party discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday
+services had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were
+all that could be mustered.
+
+[Illustration: "BIRDIE" BOWERS READING THE THERMOMETER ON THE RAMP,
+JUNE 6TH, 1911.]
+
+June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did
+not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top
+of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in
+chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott.
+[Page 287]
+A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat down
+with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this luxurious
+meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative. As I write
+there is a group in the dark room discussing political progress
+with large discussions, another at one corner of the dinner table
+airing its views on the origin of matter and the probability of its
+ultimate discovery, and yet another debating military problems....
+Perhaps these arguments are practically unprofitable, but they
+give a great deal of pleasure to the participants.... They are
+boys, all of them, but such excellent good-natured ones; there
+has been no sign of sharpness or anger, no jarring note, in all
+these wordy contests; all end with a laugh. Nelson has offered
+Taylor a pair of socks to teach him some geology! This lulls me
+to sleep!'
+
+On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying,
+and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he
+wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points
+were:
+
+1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to
+   have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass
+   at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it
+   to obtain a true course from the compass....
+
+2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depot
+   from another.
+
+3. He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite.
+
+[Page 288]
+4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation.
+
+5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to
+   work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.
+
+6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter.
+
+7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries
+   and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time.
+
+8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of
+   objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new
+   peaks, &c.
+
+That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears
+is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later. In
+it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious face
+to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For the
+moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I remembered
+that some months ago I said that it would be a good thing for all
+the officers going South to have some knowledge of navigation so
+that in emergency they would know how to steer a sledge home. It
+appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious and arduous
+course of abstruse navigational problems which he found exceedingly
+tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is not one chance
+in a hundred that he will ever have to consider navigation on our
+journey and in that one chance the problem must be of the simplest
+nature, but it makes it much easier for me to have men who
+[Page 289]
+take the details of one's work so seriously and who strive so simply
+and honestly to make it successful.'
+
+In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working
+at latitude sights--mathematics which I hate--till bedtime. It
+will be wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge
+journey.'
+
+Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions
+to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome,
+a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began to
+prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to sweep
+the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men were out and
+about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the ponies, Demetri
+to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon the slumberers
+with announcements of the time, and presently Wilson and Bowers
+met in a state of nature beside a washing basin filled with snow
+and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this chilly substance.
+A little later others with less hardiness could be seen making the
+most of a meager allowance of water. A few laggards invariably
+ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and a little pressure had
+to be applied so that they should not delay the day's work.
+
+By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table was
+cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed on a
+program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful half-hour
+was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if the
+[Page 290]
+weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who were
+not employed in this way generally exercised themselves in some way
+or other. After this the officers went steadily on with their special
+work until 6.30, when dinner was served and finished within the
+hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and usually the gramophone,
+but three nights of the week were given up to lectures. At 11 P.M.
+the acetylene lights were put out, and those who wished to stay up
+had to depend on candle-light. The majority of candles, however,
+were extinguished by midnight, and the night watchman alone remained
+awake to keep his vigil by the light of an oil lamp.
+
+Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday
+morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on.
+'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage
+of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly
+not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the
+twenty-four.'
+
+On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very
+hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and fears.
+'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than his sledge
+is reliable in action. I wish I could have more confidence in his
+preparations, as he is certainly a delightful companion.' Three
+days later Midwinter was celebrated with great festivities, and
+after lunch the Editor handed over the first number of the _S.
+P. T._ to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at the top of
+[Page 291]
+the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a teacher' is
+the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read aloud most
+of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written by Taylor,
+some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's illustrations
+to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites; indeed the
+editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to Wilson, though
+Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and sealskin was also
+'a great help.' As all the contributions were anonymous great fun
+was provided by attempts to guess the various authors, and some
+of the denials made by the contributors were perhaps more modest
+than strictly truthful.
+
+These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared
+with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the
+'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table,
+and at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner.
+
+Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the celebration
+as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in the plans of the
+expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that some of the company
+did not realize how rapidly the weeks were passing, and that in
+consequence work which ought to have been in full swing had barely
+been begun, he went on to say that it was time they knew how they
+stood in every respect, and especially thanked the officer in charge
+of the stores and those who looked after the
+[Page 292]
+animals, for knowing the exact position as regards provision and
+transport. Then he said that in respect to the future chance must
+play a great part, but that experience showed him that no more
+fitting men could have been chosen to support him on the journey
+to the South than those who were to start in that direction in
+the following spring. Finally he thanked all of his companions
+for having put their shoulders to the wheel and given him so much
+confidence.
+
+Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and afterwards
+everyone was called to speak in turn.
+
+'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly,
+all had exceedingly kind things to say of me--in fact I was obliged to
+request the omissions of compliments at an early stage. Nevertheless
+it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition of my attitude
+towards the scientific workers of the expedition, and I felt very
+warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for expressing it. If
+good will and fellowship count towards success, very surely shall
+we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment, much applauded,
+that there had not been a single disagreement between any two members
+of our party from the beginning. By the end of dinner a very cheerful
+spirit prevailed.'
+
+The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged
+in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local
+negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and of
+[Page 293]
+those on board the _Terra Nova_ had been drunk, a set of lancers was
+formed. In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly appeared,
+followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas tree, the branches
+of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers, and little presents
+for everyone; the distribution of which caused infinite amusement.
+Thus the high festival of Midwinter was celebrated in the most
+convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent of a Christmas spent
+in England was partly, at any rate, due to those kind people who
+had anticipated the celebration by providing presents and other
+tokens of their interest in the expedition.
+
+'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an outburst
+in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated the birth
+of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered amongst the
+greatest in our lives.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 294]
+CHAPTER V
+
+WINTER
+
+                            Come what may
+  Time and the hour runs through the darkest day.
+    SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy
+in making preparations for their departure. The object of their
+journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness of an
+Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as could furnish
+a series of early embryos, by means of which alone the particular
+points of interest in the development of the bird could be worked
+out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at the coldest season
+of the year, this journey entailed the risk of sledge traveling in
+mid-winter, and the travelers had also to traverse about a hundred
+miles of the Barrier surface, and to cross a chaos of crevasses
+which had previously taken a party as much as two hours to cross
+by daylight.
+
+[Illustration: PITCHING THE DOUBLE TENT ON THE SUMMIT. (P.O. Evans;
+Dr. Wilson.) _Photo by Lieut. H. R. Bowers._]
+
+Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard
+were with the help of others making preparations, and apart from the
+[Page 295]
+extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it was most
+interesting because the travelers were to make several experiments.
+Each man was to go on a different food scale, eiderdown sleeping-bags
+were to be carried inside the reindeer ones, and a new kind of
+crampon and a double tent were to be tried. 'I came across a hint
+as to the value of a double tent in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"'
+Scott wrote on June 20, 'and P.O. Evans has made a lining for one
+of the tents, it is secured on the inner side of the poles and
+provides an air space inside the tent. I think it is going to be
+a great success.'
+
+By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans
+were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following
+morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter travel
+is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone to attempt
+it. All good luck go with them!'
+
+While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work
+went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming incident
+until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew furiously,
+but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson and Gran,
+without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the floe for the
+North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This happened at
+5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not until later did
+Scott hear that he had only gone two or three hundred yards from
+the land, and that it had taken him nearly an hour to find his
+way back.
+
+[Page 296]
+Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was
+nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until
+the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At
+9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for
+him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious
+accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once
+dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as
+the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased,
+as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off
+and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one
+conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be
+got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the
+scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched.
+
+Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence;
+and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter
+of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently,
+to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson,
+who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected
+after such an adventure, very confused.
+
+At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have returned
+and all is well again, but we must have no more of these very
+unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize that this
+bit of experience has done more than all the talking I could have
+[Page 297]
+ever accomplished to bring home to our people the dangers of a
+blizzard.'
+
+On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great
+danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not until
+he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was frost-bitten.
+Having waited there for some time he groped his way to the western
+end, and then wandering away in a swirl of drift to clear some
+irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely lost the island when he
+could only have been a few yards from it. In this predicament he clung
+to the old idea of walking up wind, and it must be considered wholly
+providential that on this course he next struck Tent Island. Round
+this island he walked under the impression that it was Inaccessible
+Island, and at last dug himself a shelter on its lee side. When
+the moon appeared he judged its bearing well, and as he traveled
+homeward was vastly surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island
+appear on his left. 'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man
+has not only to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must
+struggle with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning
+power which is far more likely to undo him.'
+
+About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had
+ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week. The
+force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled earlier
+in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale was the
+long continuance of a very cold temperature. On
+[Page 298]
+Friday night the thermometer registered -39 deg., and throughout Saturday
+and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35 deg.. It was
+Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had to
+go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions for
+any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine snow
+beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath,
+and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger
+of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go
+to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while
+engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind
+with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his
+course.
+
+By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5 deg. or +7 deg., but the gale
+still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge,
+however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to
+Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing
+the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy of
+every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a rainy
+day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal material,
+leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered with the same
+spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly, Oates and Meares,
+while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects to bemoan imaginary
+shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee that we are prepared
+to face any serious call.'
+
+For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind
+[Page 299]
+moderated, and the ponies were able to get a short walk over the
+floe, but this was only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon
+blowing as furiously as ever. And the following night brought not
+only a continuance of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day
+one of the best ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in
+spite of Oates' and Anton's most careful attention he soon became
+critically ill. Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second,
+and sacks were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour
+after hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on
+Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same
+tale from Oates and Crean,[1] who never left their patient. 'Towards
+midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so certain that
+we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin of safety has
+already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the circumstance
+that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly risk failure.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Bones was the pony which had been allotted to Crean.]
+
+Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement,
+and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and
+proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the
+return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for
+anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue
+to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered
+his sense of security, and although various alterations were made
+in the arrangements of the stables and extra
+[Page 300]
+precautions were taken as regards food, he was never again without
+alarms for the safety of the precious ponies.
+
+Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23,
+but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the
+atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no
+longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity
+of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never
+been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide
+us over all minor difficulties.'
+
+By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the Crozier
+Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they came back
+looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for five weeks
+the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were scarred and
+wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened and creased
+with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite obviously the
+main part of their afflictions arose from sheer lack of sleep,
+and after a night's rest they were very different people both in
+mind and body.
+
+Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this
+morning very much his keen, wiry self--Bowers is quite himself
+to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still
+looks worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely--but
+Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers
+has come through best, all things
+[Page 301]
+considered, and I believe that he is the hardest traveler that ever
+undertook a Polar journey, as well as one of the most undaunted;
+more by hint than direct statement I gather his value to the party,
+his untiring energy and the astonishing physique which enables him
+to continue to work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing
+to others. Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little
+man.'
+
+Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey from
+the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week the
+thermometer fell below -60 deg., and on one night the minimum showed
+-71 deg., and on the next -77 deg.. Although in this fearful cold the air
+was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind eddied
+across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized being
+has ever encountered such conditions before with only a tent of
+thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that Amundsen when
+journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures of a similar
+degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him an igloo shelter
+nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight, and finally he
+turned homeward and regained his ship after five days' absence,
+while this party went outward and were absent for five weeks.
+
+Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region, and
+then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area. Blizzard
+followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better than complete
+darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found
+[Page 302]
+themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track,
+sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice
+disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they
+ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge,
+and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the
+stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for
+the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object
+of their journey.
+
+The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be
+made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing
+their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they
+failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started
+again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful
+ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock
+overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel
+hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that
+time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed.
+Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen at
+this rookery in _Discovery_ days, they could only count about a
+hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that possibly
+the date was too early, and that if the birds had not permanently
+deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been seen.
+
+With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber
+for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved,
+made a hasty dash
+[Page 303]
+for their camp, which by good luck they regained.
+
+On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment
+increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they
+had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately
+chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected
+on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and
+rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned
+up, its disappearance being merely a question of time.
+
+Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several
+valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and
+amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore
+it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the roof
+to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it secure,
+what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it disappeared,
+as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon the smother of
+snow swept over them, and all they could do was to dive immediately
+for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put out his head and said,
+'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones as he could manage, whereupon
+Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied, 'Yes, we're all right'; then
+all of them were silent for a night and half a day, while the wind
+howled and howled, and the snow entered every chink and crevice
+of their sleeping-bags.
+
+'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we registered
+our maximum wind force, and
+[Page 304]
+it seems probable that it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently
+than on us.'
+
+The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched travelers
+then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth over their
+heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in forty-eight
+hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal under these
+extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans to build shelters
+on the homeward route. Every night, they decided, they must dig a
+large pit and cover it as best they could with their floorcloth.
+
+Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile
+from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured.
+But on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard
+fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days.
+
+By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond
+description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact
+they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually
+broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been coated
+with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside vests at night
+they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed it is scarcely
+possible to realize the horrible discomforts of these three forlorn
+travelers, as they plodded back across the Barrier in a temperature
+constantly below -60 deg..
+
+[Illustration: ADELIE PENGUIN ON NEST. _Photo by C. S. Wright._]
+
+[Illustration: EMPEROR PENGUINS ON SEA-ICE. _Photo by C. S. Wright._]
+
+'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of the
+penguins, but to me and to everyone
+[Page 305]
+who has remained here the result of this effort is the appeal it
+makes to our imagination as one of the most gallant stories of Polar
+history. That men should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night
+to face the most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness
+is something new; that they should have persisted in this effort in
+spite of every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a
+tale for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
+
+'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall
+know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays
+its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information
+remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown the
+nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in winter.
+Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have proof,
+and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology of our
+Strait.'
+
+Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey
+Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary.
+Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing
+conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how
+he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to
+himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be
+unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and
+determination.
+
+In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the
+knowledge of the winter conditions on
+[Page 306]
+the Barrier that they had gained, their journey settled several
+points in connection with future sledding work. They had traveled
+on a very simple food ration in different and extreme proportions,
+for the only provisions they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit
+and tea. After a short experience they found that Wilson, who had
+arranged for the greatest quantity of fat, had too much of it,
+while Cherry-Garrard, who had declared for biscuit, had more than
+he could eat. Then a middle course was struck which gave a proportion
+agreeable to all of them, and which at the same time suited the
+total quantities of their various articles of food. The only change
+that was suggested was the addition of cocoa for the evening meal,
+because the travelers, thinking that tea robbed them of their slender
+chance of sleep, had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this
+way,' Scott decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable
+ration for the inland plateau.'
+
+Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the
+eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became
+iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers never
+used his eiderdown bag,[1] and in some miraculous manner he managed
+more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights of the
+sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea of the
+ice collected.
+
+[Footnote 1: He insisted upon giving it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It
+was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully self-sacrificing of him, more
+than I can write. I felt a brute to take it, but I was getting
+useless unless I got some sleep, which my big bag would not allow.']
+
+[Page 307]
+                                       Starting  Final
+                                       Weight    Weight
+  Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown.      17 lbs.   40 lbs.
+  Bowers, reindeer only.               17  "     33  "
+  C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown.  18  "     45  "
+
+The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons
+were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older
+form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated in
+summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of clothes,
+mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the difficulties
+which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all Wilson can
+say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent, excellent." One
+continues to wonder as to the possibilities of fur clothing as made
+by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling that it may outclass our
+more civilized garb. For us this can only be a matter of speculation,
+as it would have been quite impossible to have obtained such articles.
+With the exception of this radically different alternative, I feel
+sure we are as near perfection as experience can direct. At any
+rate we can now hold that our system of clothing has come through
+a severer test than any other, fur included.'
+
+With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed,
+and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the
+returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the
+spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became
+almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott
+[Page 308]
+and the new masters were to take charge on September 1, so that
+they could exercise their respective animals and get to know them
+as well as possible. The new arrangement was:
+
+  Bowers             Victor
+  Wilson             Nobby
+  Atkinson           Jehu
+  Wright             Chinaman
+  Cherry-Garrard     Michael
+  Evans (P.O.)       Snatcher
+  Crean              Bones
+  Keohane            Jimmy Pigg
+  Oates              Christopher
+  Scott and Oates    Snippets.
+
+On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse
+Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously
+discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also
+the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points all
+sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion was
+that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the grating or
+racquet principle, would probably be the best, the only alternative
+seeming to be to perfect the principle of the lawn mowing shoe.
+'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both kinds: the first for the
+quiet animals and the last for the more excitable. I am confident
+the matter is of first importance.'
+
+[Page 309]
+Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming
+a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite
+unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was, Christopher,
+Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high spirits that all
+three of them bolted on the 21st.
+
+A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due,
+and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut.
+Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went
+outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes,
+because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously
+covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back
+into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there
+was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and
+for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental
+attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran
+uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that
+it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous
+existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea
+spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of
+buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and
+it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single
+lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of
+a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from
+the fate of the "one-horse shay."'
+
+[Page 310]
+Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once
+out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts
+and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on life
+of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have changed.
+For if there is little that is new to be said about the return
+of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real and
+important event to those who have lived without it for so many
+months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing
+in brilliant sunshine.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 311]
+CHAPTER VI
+
+GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS
+
+  So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter,
+  the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that
+  human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of
+  any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is
+  simply the unwearied endeavour to remove its boundaries a little
+  further from our little sphere of action.--HUXLEY.
+
+With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign
+continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what
+seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went
+off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an
+early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to
+train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he chose
+to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to do, left
+him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased.
+
+Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding
+figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their
+organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little troubled
+by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that every arrangement
+had to be more than usually elastic, so that both the complete
+success and the utter failure of
+[Page 312]
+the motors could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says,
+'that our plan will carry us through without the motors (though in
+that case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage
+of such help as the motors may give.'
+
+The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity
+the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the
+ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of
+these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde,
+however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with
+his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while Bowers,
+Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs' across
+the Western Mountains.
+
+[Illustration: DOG PARTY STARTING FROM HUT POINT. _Photo by F.
+Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: DOG LINES. _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was
+occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey, every
+figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous help.'
+And later on, in speaking of the transport department, Scott says,
+'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the details of my
+plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers is the only
+man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the work without
+mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study was that Scott
+came to the conclusion that there would be no difficulty in getting
+to the Glacier if the motors were successful, and that even if the
+motors failed they still ought to get there with any ordinary degree
+of good fortune. To work three units of four men from that point
+[Page 313]
+onward would, he admitted, take a large amount of provisions, but
+with the proper division he thought that they ought to attain their
+object. 'I have tried,' he said, 'to take every reasonable possibility
+of misfortune into consideration;... I fear to be too sanguine,
+yet taking everything into consideration I feel that our chances
+ought to be good. The animals are in splendid form. Day by day the
+ponies get fitter as their exercise increases.... But we cannot
+spare any of the ten, and so there must always be anxiety of the
+disablement of one or more before their work is done.'
+
+Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were successful,
+Scott was very eager that they should be of some use so that all the
+time, money and thought which had been given to their construction
+should not be entirely wasted. But whatever the outcome of these
+motors, his belief in the possibility of motor traction for Polar
+work remained, though while it was in an untried and evolutionary
+state he was too cautious and wise a leader to place any definite
+reliance upon it.
+
+If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors,
+he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the
+Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit
+together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled under
+such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more especially
+to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a single detail
+[Page 314]
+of our equipment which is not arranged with the utmost care and in
+accordance with the tests of experience.'
+
+On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for
+Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing up
+the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and preparing
+for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had determined
+to make a better show of photographic work than had yet been
+accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he was
+to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at hand.
+
+With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier
+and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous year,
+of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of practicing
+with their cameras, Scott and his party started off to the west on
+the 15th, without having decided precisely where they were going
+or how long they would stay away.
+
+Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then
+they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral
+Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright
+across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the
+whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very
+cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled
+with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone
+who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went
+every few moments.'
+
+After plotting out the figures it turned out that the
+[Page 315]
+movement varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation,
+and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers. Though
+a greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was small enough
+to show that the idea of comparative stagnation was correct. On the
+next day they came down the Glacier, and then went slowly up the
+coast, dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed the moraine, took
+angles and collected rock specimens. At Cape Bernacchi a quantity of
+pure quartz was found, and in it veins of copper ore--an interesting
+discovery, for it was the first find of minerals suggestive of the
+possibility of working.
+
+On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance
+mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the
+land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it suddenly
+dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the land. Half
+recognizing familiar features they turned towards it, and as they
+got close they saw that it was very like their old Erebus Glacier
+Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and realized that it
+was the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue. Near the outer
+end they camped, and climbing on to it soon found the depot of
+fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes planted to guide
+the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly anchored, was the piece
+broken from the Glacier Tongue in the previous March, a huge tract
+about two miles long which had turned through half a circle, so
+that the old western end was towards
+[Page 316]
+the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass it is most
+astonishing that it should have remained intact throughout its
+sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the hut should be
+placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage the occupants
+would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south of Cape Evans
+is now 4 deg. miles W.N.W. of it.'
+
+[Illustration: PANORAMA AT CAPE EVANS. (Cliffs of Barne Glacier;
+Open Sea; Mount Erebus.) _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+[Illustration: BERG IN SOUTH BAY. _Photo by F. Debenham._]
+
+From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th,
+just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along
+the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been
+more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they
+had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although
+an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled
+to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started
+again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time
+to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features
+could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of
+the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound
+in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M.,
+however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a
+wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy
+appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another
+snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss
+them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted out.
+Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard swept
+[Page 317]
+upon them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly impossible
+to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage to set up
+the outer one. A few hours later the weather again cleared, and
+as they were more or less snowed up, they decided to push for Cape
+Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at 1.15 A.M., pretty
+well done. The wind never let up for an instant; the temperature
+remained about -16 deg., and the 21 statute miles which we marched
+in the day must be remembered amongst the most strenuous in my
+memory.... The objects of our little journey were satisfactorily
+accomplished, but the greatest source of pleasure to me is to realize
+that I have such men as Bowers and P.O. Evans for the Southern
+journey. I do not think that harder men or better sledge travelers
+ever took the trail. Bowers is a little wonder. I realize all that
+he must have done for the C. Crozier Party in their far severer
+experience.'
+
+Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans,
+everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during
+his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and
+found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to
+the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however,
+had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be
+incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements
+that had already been made for a geological party to go to the
+west would in all probability have to be altered.
+
+[Page 318]
+All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy
+at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that
+Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having great
+trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being harnessed
+and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge. 'He is going,'
+Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony, wrote, 'to be a
+trial, but he is a good strong pony and should do yeoman service.
+Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors. He is an ingenious
+person and has been turning up new rollers out of a baulk of oak
+supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small motor as a lathe.
+The motors may save the situation.'
+
+On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became
+convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also
+no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and
+must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss
+we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face
+the bad as well as the good.'
+
+During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual
+exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean
+went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same
+afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line
+had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there had
+been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and found
+himself able to hold long
+[Page 319]
+conversations with Meares and Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact,
+perhaps, but it seems wonderful in this primitive land to be talking
+to one's fellow beings 15 miles away. Oates told me that the ponies
+had arrived in fine order, Christopher a little done, but carrying
+the heaviest load. If we can keep the telephone going it will be
+a great boon, especially to Meares later in the season.'
+
+After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of
+photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out
+to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries,
+however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which time
+Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from Nelson's
+igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a berg and hurt
+his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a sledge party, and
+fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able to join it. Scott himself
+at once hurried over the land, and found Ponting very distressed
+and Clissold practically insensible.
+
+It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,'
+and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures.
+Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the
+latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,'
+and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve
+feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of the
+berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although neither
+Wilson nor Atkinson
+[Page 320]
+thought that anything very serious had happened, there was no doubt
+that the accident would prevent him from taking the place allotted
+to him in the motor sledge party. Thus there were two men on the
+sick list, and after all the trouble that had been taken to get
+things ready for the summer journeys Scott naturally felt that
+these misfortunes were more than a little deplorable. On the other
+hand, all was going well with the ponies, though Christopher's
+dislike to sledges seemed rather to increase than to lessen. When
+once he was in the sledge he had always behaved himself until October
+13, when he gave a really great exhibition of perversity. On this
+occasion a dog frightened him, and having twisted the rope from
+Oates' hands he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he
+had obtained his freedom, he set about most systematically to get
+rid of his load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged
+two bales of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges
+a better idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them
+with the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell
+swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned
+his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short
+distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his antics
+had brought a small group to the scene, and presently Oates, Bowers,
+Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the sledge. Undaunted,
+however, by this human burden, he tried to treat it as he had the
+bales of hay, and he did manage to
+[Page 321]
+dispose of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into
+the snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly
+glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These capers
+promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the Barrier may
+effectually cure them.'
+
+On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe,
+but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum)
+splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed
+his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance, though
+at the same time retaining his opinion that with more experience
+they might have been of the greatest service. 'The trouble is that
+if they fail, no one will ever believe this.'
+
+The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans
+and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's
+time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing.
+'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always
+fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the
+finest character I ever met--the closer one gets to him the more
+there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable; cannot
+you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter, one
+knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal,
+and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and
+things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humour and really
+consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think
+[Page 322]
+he is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much.
+
+'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a positive
+treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously energetic. He
+is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is saying a good
+deal--nothing seems to hurt his tough little body, and certainly
+no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a hundred little tales
+to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his unselfishness, and his
+inextinguishable good humor. He surprises always, for his intelligence
+is of quite a high order and his memory for details most exceptional.
+You can imagine him, as he is, an indispensable assistant to me in
+every detail concerning the management and organization of our
+sledding work and a delightful companion on the march.
+
+'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working,
+very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he
+has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't
+had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly
+as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he
+ever complained of anything in his life.
+
+'The Soldier is very popular with all--a delightfully humorous
+cheery old pessimist--striving with the ponies night and day and
+bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut.
+
+'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for helping
+others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to do a kind
+thing unobtrusively.
+
+[Page 323]
+'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses
+of him in tight places.
+
+'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice
+characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical ability,
+and I believe is about as good a man as could have been selected
+for his job.
+
+'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others,
+though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round,
+they are a perfectly excellent lot.
+
+'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges and
+sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility of resource
+which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as sound and hard as
+ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote. Crean is perfectly
+happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere, the harder the work,
+the better. Evans and Crean are great friends. Lashly is his old
+self in every respect, hard working to the limit, quiet, abstemious
+and determined. You see altogether I have a good set of people
+with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve something.
+
+'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such
+a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most
+diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another,
+and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion between
+acquaintances are just those which are most freely used for jest....
+I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions. So as I sit
+[Page 324]
+here I am very satisfied with these things. I think that it would have
+been difficult to better the organization of the party--every man has
+his work and is especially adapted for it; there is no gap and no
+overlap. It is all that I desired, and the same might well be said of
+the men selected to do the work....
+
+'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets to
+the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel fast
+with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account I
+decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have done
+had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked my plan,
+besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one is out for.
+
+'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you.
+Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you can
+rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish--only I'm afraid
+you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture much
+belittled.
+
+'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that follows.'
+
+The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by the
+weather until October 22, but on that day the most important
+stores--which were for the returning depots and to provision the
+_Discovery_ hut in case the _Terra Nova_ did not arrive--were taken
+by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their ponies to Glacier Tongue.
+Accidents, however, were still to happen, for while Bowers was
+holding the ponies so
+[Page 325]
+that Wilson and Evans could unload them, Victor got the hook, which
+fastened the harness to the trace of another pony, into his nose.
+At that moment a lot of drift swept upon them, and immediately
+all three of the ponies stampeded, Snatcher making for home and
+Nobby for the Western Mountains, while Victor, with Bowers still
+hanging on to him, just bolted here, there and everywhere. Wilson
+and P.O. Evans at once started after their ponies, and the former
+by means of a biscuit as a bait managed to catch Nobby west of Tent
+Island, but Snatcher arrived, with a single trace and dangling
+sledge, by himself at Cape Evans. Half an hour after Wilson had
+returned Bowers brought in Victor, who had a gash in his nose, and
+was very much distressed. 'I don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers
+managed to hang on to the frightened animal; I don't believe anyone
+else would have done so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet
+the animals appear they must not be left by their drivers--no chance
+must be taken; secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness
+must be altered in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were
+to be expected, one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous
+and expect them to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we
+are off and can know more definitely what resources we can count
+on.'
+
+In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two
+days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western
+Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident
+[Page 326]
+being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery while
+Debenham's knee was given time to improve.
+
+On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start,
+but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the next
+morning did they get away. At first there were frequent stops,
+but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as even a
+small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be enough to
+show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport, and so help
+to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition of animal
+transport, he was intensely anxious about the result of this trial
+trip. As this subject was one which was of the most supreme interest
+to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an expert upon these motor
+sledges. 'It has been said that Captain Scott's sledges failed, and
+without further consideration the design has been totally condemned,
+but this is quite unfair to the design; and it must be admitted
+by everyone who has had anything to do with the sledges, and has
+any sort of knowledge of mechanical principles, that it was _the
+engine_ that failed, not the transmission gear at all. The engine
+used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one, and most unexpectedly in
+the cold climate of the Antarctic it over-heated and broke various
+parts, beyond possibility of repair under the severe conditions.
+The reason of the breakdown therefore applies to any and every
+form of motor sledge, and should a satisfactory engine be available
+for one form of sledge, it is equally
+[Page 327]
+available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair judgment
+to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would have applied
+equally to every form of motor transport which could have been
+designed.'
+
+Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique
+experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott
+declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even
+the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly
+impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on
+like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.'
+
+As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party--which
+consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde--would have to leave
+after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should be wasting
+the season in this way. All things considered, I shall be glad
+to get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote on the
+28th. And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are just
+off to Hut Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave in an
+hour or so as arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall all
+get off to-morrow. So here end the entries in this diary with the
+first chapter of our History. The future is in the lap of the gods;
+I can think of nothing left undone to deserve success.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 328]
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS
+
+                 Free men freely work.
+  Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease.
+    E. B. BROWNING.
+
+'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of
+missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape
+Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going away
+with high hopes of success and for the moment everything smiles, but
+where risks must be taken the result must be dependent on chance
+to some extent.
+
+'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have
+lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all
+are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result,
+the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.'
+
+The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading
+Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the
+tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being
+allowed to start, although so little confidence was still
+[Page 329]
+placed in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his
+own pace to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,'
+but the chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the
+persistently active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole
+way.
+
+On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat
+disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good knowledge
+was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and the plan of
+advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start was to be
+made from Hut Point in three parties--the very slow ponies, the
+medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day, E. R. Evans,
+Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place) were already
+on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri, were to follow
+the main detachments.
+
+Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was
+said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with
+Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and
+Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well together
+on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who reported that
+Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after Scott's party had
+camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri and a small dog team,
+and the cinematograph was up in time to catch the flying rearguard,
+which came along in fine form with Snatcher, 'a wonderful little
+beast,' leading. Christopher had given his customary exhibition when
+[Page 330]
+harnessed, and although the Barrier surface had sobered him a little
+it was not thought advisable for him to stop, and so the party
+fled through in the wake of the advance guard, and were christened
+'the through train.'
+
+'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says, 'we
+packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like these
+midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is pleasant
+when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily increases its
+heat. The two parties in front of us camped five miles beyond Safety
+Camp, and we reached their camp some half or three-quarters of an
+hour later. All the ponies are tethered in good order, but most
+of them are tired--Chinaman and Jehu _very tired_.... A petrol
+tin is near the camp and a note stating that the motors passed
+at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong--they have from four to five days'
+lead and should surely keep it.'
+
+On the next march they started in what for some time was to be
+the settled order--Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's at
+10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting they
+picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both the
+motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80 deg. 30' Lat.' But very soon
+afterwards a depot of petrol was found; and worse was to follow,
+as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across a tin bearing
+the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2 cylinder broken.'
+Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking sledges, &c.; and
+notes from E. Evans and Day to
+[Page 331]
+tell the tale of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used
+for Lashly's machine, and as it would have taken a long time to
+strip Day's engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they
+had decided to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So
+the dream of help from the machines is at an end! The track of
+the remaining motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I
+shall expect to see it every hour of the march.'
+
+On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a
+bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and not
+until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much confidence
+in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E. Evans saying
+that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day. 'They have taken
+on nine bags of forage, but there are three black dots to the south
+which we can only imagine are the deserted motor with its loaded
+sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting party, as directed.
+It is a disappointment. I had hoped better of the machines once
+they got away on the Barrier Surface.'
+
+From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged
+that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to be
+the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed. Another
+note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble. The big
+end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine was in
+good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this misfortune,
+'the engines are not
+[Page 332]
+fitted for working in this climate, a fact that should be certainly
+capable of correction. One thing is proved: the system of propulsion
+is altogether satisfactory. The motor party has proceeded as a
+man-hauling party as arranged.'
+
+As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls were
+at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was more
+than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with loads
+of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as fit as
+they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing of their
+loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs., sledge included.
+'We are all much cheered by this performance. It shows a hardening
+up of ponies which have been well trained; even Oates is pleased!'
+
+The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done in
+the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their new rugs
+and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could scarcely feel
+the wind, and as this protection was a direct result of experience
+gained in the previous year, Scott was glad to feel that some good
+had been obtained from that disastrous journey. But when the snow
+began to fall the ponies as usual suffered, because it was impossible
+to devise any means of keeping them comfortable in thick and driving
+snow. 'We men are snug and comfortable enough, but it is very evil to
+lie here and know that the weather is steadily sapping the strength
+of the beasts on which so
+[Page 333]
+much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful on such
+occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon of the
+7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped about
+a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so soon
+Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety, but
+at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs would
+pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face such
+terrific winds.
+
+The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and
+the question of starting was left open for a long time, several
+of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the
+decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after
+midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that
+his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman
+took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman
+even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In
+fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and this
+not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of the ponies
+halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but Christopher
+had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for his tricks
+and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to cling like
+grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had worn off,
+and this was a long rather than a light task, as even after ten
+miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got the smallest
+chance.
+
+[Page 334]
+A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage
+and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs.
+Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and although
+the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it still remained
+a question how the ponies would get on under harder conditions,
+Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very encouraging. The
+cairns built in the previous year showed up very distinctly and
+were being picked up with the greatest ease, and this also was
+an additional cause for satisfaction because with pony walls, camp
+sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march seemed as if it
+must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott says, 'Everyone
+is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we camped this
+morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely and the
+sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather. One
+devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the windy
+Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped, traveling
+easily.'
+
+On the next march they remained faithful to their program of advancing
+a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during the last
+two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together. 'It looked
+like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was Cherry-Garrard's
+account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's opinion it was
+clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment, because the
+slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace by joining
+[Page 335]
+with the others, while the fast rearguard had their speed reduced.
+This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose attempt to bolt,
+though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling canter, was
+freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for a pony who
+at the start had been thought incapable of doing a single march.
+
+The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in
+consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In arriving
+at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong head wind,
+and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading, found it
+so impossible to see where he was going that he decided to camp
+some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies continued
+to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed distance.
+
+A worse surface was in store for them when they started from Camp
+7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst they
+had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained soft,
+and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft crust between
+a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between these the snow lay
+in sandy heaps, making altogether the most difficult conditions
+for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger ponies continued to pull
+excellently, and even the poor old crocks succeeded in covering
+9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes one anxious in spite of the
+rapidity with which changes take place. I expected these marches
+to be a little difficult, but not near so bad as to-day's.... In
+spite of the surface, the dogs ran up from the camp before last,
+[Page 336]
+over 20 miles, in the night. They are working splendidly.'
+
+The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following
+day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon
+the last year's Bluff depot. Here Scott found a note, from which
+he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must be
+the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson had
+a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought,
+only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic
+than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days;
+and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well,
+Jehu especially distinguishing himself.
+
+'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13, 'in
+a better position to know how we stand when we get to One Ton Camp,
+now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these beasts--very
+anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to have been, and if
+they pull through well, all the thanks will be due to Oates. I
+trust the weather and surface conditions will improve; both are
+rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within 7 or 8 miles
+of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface and some
+sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although the ponies
+were working splendidly, it was painful work for them to struggle
+on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when harnessed were
+already a thing of the past--a fact which
+[Page 337]
+would have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that
+his strength was also beginning to diminish.
+
+One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed on
+to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest there,
+and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical miles (15
+statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will get through, but
+that they have lost condition quicker than he expected. Considering
+his usually pessimistic attitude this must be thought a hopeful
+view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I think that a good many
+of the beasts are actually in better form than when they started,
+and that there is no need to be alarmed about the remainder, always
+excepting the weak ones which we have always regarded with doubt.
+Well, we must wait and see how things go.'
+
+Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating that
+his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait for
+the main detachment at Lat. 80 deg. 30'. The minimum thermometer left
+there in the previous year showed -73 deg., which was rather less than
+Scott had expected.
+
+After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger
+ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over
+400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of
+them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion.
+By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans
+being victims, while Meares, when told
+[Page 338]
+that his nose was 'gone,' remarked that he was tired of it and that
+it would thaw out by and by!
+
+Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on such
+a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on November
+18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The surface is,
+if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I should think
+about the sort of thing we shall have to expect henceforward....
+It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the Glacier; meanwhile
+we get along somehow.'
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of rather
+bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and Chinaman
+began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being re-christened
+'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.' Again Scott
+began to take a hopeful view of getting through, unless the surfaces
+became infinitely worse.
+
+While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and
+his party in Lat. 80 deg. 32', and heard that they had been waiting
+for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn.
+All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry--an
+informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was
+ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough
+for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision
+that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification,
+though even with the rations that were
+[Page 339]
+to be taken he had no doubt that hunger would attack the party.
+
+After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party
+on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should
+return.
+
+Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at
+Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier.
+'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were
+to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.'
+
+Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the usual
+march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies now quite
+steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor Party the
+procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go forward just
+ahead of the crocks, the other party following two or three hours
+later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the crocks must have
+been going very well. However, the fiat had already gone forth,
+and this morning (November 24) after the march poor old Jehu was
+led back on the track and shot. After our doubts as to his reaching
+Hut Point, it is wonderful to think that he has actually got eight
+marches beyond our last year limit, and could have gone more. However,
+towards the end he was pulling very little, and on the whole it is
+merciful to have ended his life. Chinaman seems to improve and
+will certainly last a good many days yet. I feel we ought to get
+through now. Day and Hooper leave us to-night.'
+
+[Page 340]
+Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much
+Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was at
+the loss of his pony.
+
+After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged and
+started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and Lashly,
+went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then came Wright
+with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest following close
+behind them. But although the two crocks had not been given their
+usual start, they stuck to their work so gallantly that at the
+finish they were less than a quarter of a mile behind.
+
+At Camp 22, in Lat. 81 deg. 35' the Middle Barrier Depot was made,
+and as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually getting
+back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their journey was
+struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At the start
+the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made such heavy
+weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This threw the
+ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six hours were
+spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first part of
+the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The advance
+party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in keeping
+a course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with a rise of
+temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At this time
+the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the man-haulers also
+found it impossible to steer. The march of 13 miles was eventually
+completed, but under
+[Page 341]
+the most harassing circumstances and with very tired animals.
+
+'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13
+(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can
+only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a
+glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A tired
+animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very bright
+now after the day's march.'
+
+No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the following
+day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them, the driving snow
+not only preventing them from seeing anything, but also hitting
+them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was shot on this night,
+but in struggling on until he was within go miles of the Glacier
+he had done more than was ever expected of him; and with only four
+bags of forage left the end of all the ponies was very near at
+hand.
+
+During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82 deg. 21', 'the most unexpected
+and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased,
+and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching
+the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close to
+them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the 29th,
+'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies are tired,
+but I believe all have five days' work left in them, and some a
+great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be employed, rested
+and fed well on the homeward track. We could really get through now
+[Page 342]
+with their help and without much delay, yet every consideration makes
+it desirable to save the men from heavy hauling as long as possible.
+So I devoutly hope the 70 miles will come in the present order of
+things.'
+
+Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both of
+them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and if he
+stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott admitted,
+a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond of Snippets
+as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying when on the
+march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant weather with it,
+but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies, with the exception
+of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure. A recurrence of
+'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a report) was encountered,
+and the ponies very often sank nearly to their knees.
+
+At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of extreme
+exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce that even Nobby
+had nearly reached the end of his life. On this night (December
+1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility could he be much
+regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at the outset,
+and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength had also
+disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,' Cherry-Garrard
+wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.'
+
+A depot, called the Southern Barrier Depot, was left at Camp 27,
+so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the other ponies.
+'Three more marches
+[Page 343]
+ought to carry us through. With the seven crocks and the dog teams
+we _must_ get through, I think. The men alone ought not to have
+heavy loads on the surface, which is extremely trying.'
+
+On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes, and
+for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but then
+the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless, in Scott's
+opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the thing for
+ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use them from the
+beginning their condition would have been very different from what
+it was.
+
+From Camp 28, Lat. 83 deg., Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad weather
+conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E. last night meant
+mischief, and all day we marched in falling snow with a horrible
+light.... The ponies were sinking deep in a wretched surface. I
+suggested to Oates that he should have a roving commission to watch
+the animals, but he much preferred to lead one, so I handed over
+Snippets very willingly and went on ski myself.' This he found
+such easy work, that he had time to take several photographs of
+the ponies as they plunged through the snow. But in the afternoon
+they found a better surface, and Scott, who was leading, had to
+travel at a very steady pace to keep the lead.
+
+When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel,
+and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage becoming
+scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor--to the great sorrow of Bowers,
+[Page 344]
+who was very fond of him--had to be shot. Six ponies remained,
+and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of the party
+reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could see their
+way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey remarked on
+December 15 that it was the first day for a month on which he could
+not record splendid weather. With Scott's party, however, a fine
+day had been the exception rather than the rule, and the journey
+had been one almost perpetual fight against bad weather and bad
+surfaces.
+
+The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson,
+Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and Crean;
+(3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly. 'We
+have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger isn't
+thought of.'
+
+At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away
+at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather
+once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just a
+chance that they might be able to march, but while they were having
+breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest wind I
+have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony wall was
+blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts had collected.
+In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the pony walls, but
+the flanking wall was blown down three times before the job was
+completed. About mid-day the weather improved and soon afterwards
+the clouds broke and the land appeared; and when they got away at
+[Page 345]
+2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But this pleasant state of
+affairs was only destined to last for one short hour; after that
+snow again began to fall, and marching conditions became supremely
+horrible. The wind increased from the S.E., changed to S. W., where
+for a time it remained, and then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and
+afterwards to N.N.W., from which direction it continued to blow
+with falling and drifting snow. But in spite of these rapid and
+absolutely bewildering changes of conditions they managed to get
+11-1/2 miles south and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however,
+camped after six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a
+course. 'We (Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting
+snow across our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi
+under them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The
+whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they
+continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly
+placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor--we have had
+all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly won
+under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the forage is
+lasting a little better than expected... we should have no difficulty
+whatever as regards transport if only the weather was kind.' On the
+following day the weather was still in a bad mood, for no sooner
+had they got on their gear for the start than a thick blizzard
+from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone started to build fresh
+walls for the ponies, an uninviting task enough in a regular white
+flowing blizzard, but one which added
+[Page 346]
+greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and bored,
+but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the man-haulers
+came into camp, having been assisted in their course by the tracks
+that the other parties had made.
+
+Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M. they
+were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their credit.
+During this march the land was quite clearly in view, and several
+uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The mountains
+were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent peaks, one
+or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare and almost
+perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded, boulder-strewn
+Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We should reach it
+easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can compass 12 miles....
+We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two wretched days, but the
+disturbed condition of the weather makes me anxious with regard
+to the Glacier, where more than anywhere we shall need fine days.
+One has a horrid feeling that this is a real bad season. However,
+sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. We are practically
+through with the first stage of our journey. Looking from the last
+Camp (29) towards the S.S.E., where the farthest land can be seen,
+it seemed more than probable that a very high latitude could be
+reached on the Barrier, and if Amundsen journeying that way has
+a stroke of luck, he may well find his summit journey reduced to
+100 miles or so. In any case it is a fascinating direction for
+next year's work, if only fresh transport arrives.'
+
+[Page 347]
+On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing
+the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had
+food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have
+gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael'
+had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having done
+so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was just like
+a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he has been a good
+friend and has a good record, 83 deg. 22' S. He was a bit done to-day,
+the blizzard had knocked him.'
+
+By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to find a
+raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had so constantly
+bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery snow which is usually
+an especial feature of a blizzard, but on this occasion they got
+enough and to spare of it. Anyone who went into the open for a
+minute or two was covered from head to foot, and as the temperature
+was high the snow stuck where it fell. The heads, tails and legs
+of the ponies were covered with ice, and they had to stand deep in
+snow. The sledges were almost covered, and there were huge drifts
+about the tent. It was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer
+than he could help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they
+retreated sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small
+satisfaction of being able to see from one tent to another was
+denied them, and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather
+could mean at this
+[Page 348]
+time of year, stated emphatically that no party could possibly travel
+against such a wind.
+
+'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance
+which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season, or
+are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions? If the
+latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small party
+struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go smilingly
+forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of luck! No
+foresight--no procedure--could have prepared us for this state of
+affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or certain of our
+aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.'
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING UP THE GATEWAY FROM PONY DEPOT. (Mt. Hope.)
+_Photo by R. F. Scott._]
+
+[Illustration: LOOKING SOUTH FROM LOWER GLACIER DEPOT. (Mt. Hope.)
+_Photo by R. F. Scott._]
+
+The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest that
+Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal. And
+to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained
+so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow,
+with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &c., were
+all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles and
+door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the
+situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough,
+however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth
+quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under
+which it was produced:
+
+  The snow is all melting and everything's afloat,
+  If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent
+    upside down and use it as a boat.
+
+The next day Scott described as 'miserable,
+[Page 349]
+utterly miserable. We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When
+within twelve miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel
+fortune to be held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature
+at noon had risen to 33 deg., and everything was more soakingly wet
+than ever, if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly
+desolate, and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls,
+tents and sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of
+marching again were dashed on the following morning, when the storm
+continued and the situation became most serious; after this day only
+one small feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either
+to march or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not
+the most serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could
+without doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely
+was that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their
+summit rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take
+them on from the Glacier depot had been begun.
+
+In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its
+character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an
+end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move.
+Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an easy
+one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid, and so
+nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for bad weather
+was ample according to all experience, and this stormy December--our
+finest month--is a thing that the most cautious organizer
+[Page 350]
+might not have been prepared to encounter.... There cannot be good
+cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready to break out
+again. In the brief spell of hope last night one heard laughter.'
+
+Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as every
+hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of their plans,
+no one can wonder that they chafed over this most exasperating
+delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have been melancholy
+enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls of their tents and to
+hear the everlasting patter of the falling snow and the ceaseless
+rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when the prospect of failure
+of their cherished plan was added to the acute discomforts of the
+situation, it is scarcely possible to imagine how totally miserable
+they must have been both in body and mind. Nevertheless in the
+midst of these distressing conditions Scott managed to write, 'But
+yet, after all, one can go on striving, endeavoring to find a
+stimulation in the difficulties that arise.'
+
+Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The
+snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying
+in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such
+circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents and dig
+out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to the smallest
+space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites being deep
+pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting of them at
+least made things more comfortable, and as the
+[Page 351]
+wind dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed
+signs of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow
+was falling again, and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely
+desperate.
+
+To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during
+the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed
+to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees,
+and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances
+was anything but encouraging.
+
+Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies finished,
+but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite of the surface,
+_if it comes to-morrow_. If it should not, we must kill the ponies
+to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men on ski and the
+dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on such a surface. I
+much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh! for fine weather,
+if only to the Glacier.'
+
+By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last began
+really to break. The temperature also helped matters by falling
+to +26 deg., and in consequence the water nuisance began to abate;
+and at the prospect of action on the following morning cheerful
+sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies look
+wistfully for the food of which so very little remains, yet they
+are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from food left
+in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all things
+[Page 352]
+considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but nothing can
+recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned out two or
+three times to find the weather slowly improving, and at 8 o'clock
+on December 9 they started upon a most terrible march to Camp 31.
+
+The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and
+the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could
+be led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to
+follow the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to
+seem as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers
+were pressed into the service to try and improve matters.
+
+Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge and
+made a track--thus most painfully a mile or so was gained. Then
+when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans saved
+the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon Snatcher,
+who at once began to go on without much pressure, and was followed
+by the other ponies.
+
+No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious miles
+they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added to the
+difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled on,
+and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending to
+the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was
+a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain
+rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott
+had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he
+[Page 353]
+would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him.
+
+By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They
+came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was
+hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the pulling
+heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot. Poor beasts!
+they have done wonderfully well considering the terrible circumstances
+under which they worked.'
+
+On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all
+my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow,
+and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food
+is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had all
+my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we camped
+I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses are now all
+done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.'
+
+This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although the
+ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance Scott had
+expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that distressing
+march, were relieved to know that the sufferings of their plucky
+animals had at last come to an end.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 354]
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER
+
+  In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice
+  To be imprison'd in the viewless winds
+  And blown with restless violence round about.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized,
+and for some days advanced in the following order:
+
+  Sledge 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans.
+  Sledge 2. E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.
+  Sledge 3. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with
+            Meares and Demetri continuing to drive the dogs.
+
+When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads
+could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success
+attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was
+delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they
+got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's
+party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised
+to find it running fairly easily
+[Page 355]
+behind them. The first mile was gained in about half an hour, but
+then they began to rise, and soon afterwards with the slope becoming
+steeper and the surface getting worse they had to take off their
+ski. After this the pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for
+they sank above their finnesko, and in some places nearly up to
+their knees.
+
+The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of ice
+from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges themselves
+sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they reached the
+top of the slope, and after tea started on the down grade. On this
+they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the upward slope, but
+they could just manage to get along on ski.
+
+Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace set
+by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard some news
+that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote, 'that Atkinson
+says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly is not so fit as
+he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I have not
+felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march to-day
+showed clearly that something was wrong.... True, the surface was
+awful and growing worse every moment. It is a very serious business
+if the men are going to crack up. As for myself, I never felt fitter
+and my party can easily hold its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is
+a tower of strength, but Oates and Wilson are doing splendidly
+also.'
+
+Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched
+[Page 356]
+the snow was appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks
+to the knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to
+support the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though
+under ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome,
+on this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow;
+and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half
+another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs, and
+in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each sledge-load.
+
+Before starting from Camp 32 they built a depot (the Lower Glacier
+depot), made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal of gear
+there. Then at the very beginning of their march they got into
+big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses. After
+four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and then
+they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a note
+from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might be,
+but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This is
+only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as well
+as of old.'
+
+The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether
+they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party went
+away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make fairly
+good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft patch
+which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the sledge and
+hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December 11, at Camp 33,
+[Page 357]
+'to treat such occasions with patience.... The great thing is to
+keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were dozens
+of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a few when
+it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and tiring.
+But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed
+to the game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come
+up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a
+halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant;
+all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but unfortunately our
+history was not repeated with the other parties. Bowers came up
+half an hour after us. They also had done well at the last, and
+I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane is the only
+weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily blind. But
+Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite well, but
+got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by straining again
+and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from bad to worse. Their
+ski shoes, too, are out of trim.'
+
+During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth
+Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and then
+the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards still
+further to the west. In consequence they got a much better view of
+the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's party had
+obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously were observed.
+On the first stage of this march Scott's party was bogged time after
+[Page 358]
+time, and do what they could their sledge dragged like a huge lump of
+lead. Evans' team had been sent off in advance and kept well ahead
+until lunch-time. Then, when Scott admits being 'pretty well cooked,'
+the secret of their trouble was disclosed in a thin film with some
+hard knots of ice on the runners of the sledge; these impediments
+having been removed they went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile
+or two resumed their leading position. As they advanced it became
+more and more evident that, with the whole of the lower valley
+filled with snow from the storm, they would have been bogged had
+they been without ski. 'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if
+pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee and thigh.'
+
+Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they rose,
+but on the next march the surface became worse instead of better,
+the sledges simply plunging into the soft places and stopping dead.
+So slow in fact was the progress they made, that on his sledge Scott
+decided at lunch to try the 10-foot runners under the cross-bars,
+for the sledge was sinking so deeply that the cross-pieces were
+on the surface and acting as brakes. Three hours were spent in
+securing the runners, and then Scott's party started and promptly
+saw what difficulties the other teams were having.
+
+In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and
+his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them.
+But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining and
+a high temperature
+[Page 359]
+had become very wet and sticky, and again and again the sledge got
+one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its side, and
+refused to move. At the top of the rise Evans' party was reduced
+to relay work, and shortly afterwards Bowers was compelled to adopt
+the same plan. 'We,' Scott says, 'got our whole load through till 7
+P.M., camping time, but only with repeated halts and labour which
+was altogether too strenuous. The other parties certainly cannot
+get a full load along on the surface, and I much doubt if we could
+continue to do so, but we must try again to-morrow. I suppose we
+have advanced a bare four miles to-day and the aspect of things
+is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500 feet.'
+
+On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35,
+and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much easier
+than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed without getting
+along so well, and so Scott, whose party were having no difficulty
+with their load, exchanged sledges with them, and a satisfactory
+morning's march was followed by still better work in the afternoon,
+eleven or twelve miles being gained. 'I think the soft snow trouble
+is at an end, and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of
+the present surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling
+our load with the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along
+and to find some adequate return for the work we are putting into
+the business.'
+
+At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had
+[Page 360]
+reached a height of about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the
+surface steadily improved and the snow covering over the blue ice
+became thinner and thinner. During the afternoon they found that
+at last they could start their sledges by giving one good heave,
+and so, for the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they
+liked without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again
+set the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard neve were beginning to
+show through in places, and had not the day's work been interrupted
+by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would have been a really good
+one, but, as it was, eleven more miles had to be put to their credit.
+The weather looked, however, very threatening as they turned in
+for the night, and Scott expressed a fervent hope that they were
+not going to be afflicted by snowstorms as they approached the
+worst part of the glacier.
+
+As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface difficult
+when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their work for over
+ten hours--'the limit of time to be squeezed into one day'--they
+covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect of the glacier.
+Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had to take them off
+in the afternoon because they struck such a peculiarly difficult
+surface that the sledges were constantly being brought up. Then
+on foot they made better progress, though no advance could be made
+without the most strenuous labour. The brittle crust would hold
+for a pace or two, and then let them down with a bump, while now
+and again a leg went down a crack in the hard ice underneath. So
+[Page 361]
+far, since arriving among the disturbances, which increased rapidly
+towards the end of the march, they had not encountered any very
+alarming crevasses, though a large quantity of small ones could
+be seen.
+
+At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For
+once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof." Our
+luck may be on the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of the
+hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed
+and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's;
+he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our
+last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very bad time....
+I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due
+to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the
+cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip
+up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on
+halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that is all we want, and
+we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We have worn our crampons
+all day (December 17) and are delighted with them. P.O. Evans, the
+inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased, and
+certainly we owe him much.'
+
+On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day
+and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was
+accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers could
+keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were crossing
+it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold. Still,
+however, they stuck most splendidly to their
+[Page 362]
+task, and on the following day even a better march was made to Camp
+41.
+
+Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross
+cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee
+and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface over
+which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was spent over
+the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs and sketches
+were taken, and continuing to make progress in the second part of
+the day's march they finished up with a gain of 17 miles. 'It has
+not been a strain except perhaps for me with my wounds received
+early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on the march, which
+has in consequence been very much pleasanter.... Days like this
+put heart in one.'
+
+On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the previous
+two days were put entirely into the shade by one of nearly 23 miles,
+during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the sledges in crampons was
+not at all difficult on the hard snow and on hard ice with patches
+of snow. At night they camped in Lat. 84 deg. 59' 6", and then Scott had
+to perform a task that he most cordially disliked. 'I have just
+told off the people to return to-morrow night: Atkinson, Wright,
+Cherry-Garrard and Keohane. All are disappointed--poor Wright rather
+bitterly, I fear. I dreaded this necessity of choosing--nothing
+could be more heartrending. I calculated our program to start from
+85 deg. 10' with twelve units of food[1] and
+[Page 363]
+eight men. We ought to be in this position to-morrow night, less
+one day's food. After all our harassing trouble one cannot but
+be satisfied with such a prospect.'
+
+[Footnote 1: A unit of food means a week's supplies for four men.]
+
+The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident,
+was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were
+frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they
+were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their
+tents for nearly three hours.
+
+During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken
+back by the returning party.
+
+'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85 deg. S. We are struggling on, considering
+all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety, otherwise
+arrangements are working exactly as planned.
+
+'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best
+of them.
+
+'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through
+to the Pole.
+
+'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear,
+an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region.
+Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness
+this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I
+get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which
+step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one
+could only go on.
+
+'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the valley
+out of the fog and away from
+[Page 364]
+crevasses. So here we are practically on the summit and up to date
+in the provision line. We ought to get through.'
+
+After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst crevasses,
+and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The pull up
+the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until 7.30 P.M.
+they got off a good march and found a satisfactory place for their
+depot. Fortunately the weather was both calm and bright, and all
+the various sorting arrangements that had to be made before the
+returning party left them were carried out under most favorable
+conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an immense relief to have
+the indefatigable little Bowers to see to all detail arrangements of
+this sort,' and on the following day he added, 'we said an affecting
+farewell to the returning party, who have taken things very well,
+dear good fellows as they are.'
+
+Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans;
+Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their heavy
+loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull them
+were soon removed.
+
+'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his
+diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and snowing
+when we started after making the depot, and the last we saw of them
+as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just disappearing
+over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave ahead of them.'
+
+[Page 365]
+Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and arrived
+at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for three months.
+
+Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some
+time during their first march under the new conditions, but they
+managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter
+every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the requisite
+progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next morning they
+soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and pressure, that
+they were compelled to haul out to the north, and then to the west.
+One comfort was that all the time they were rising. 'It is rather
+trying having to march so far to the west, but if we keep rising
+we must come to the end of the disturbance some time.' During the
+second part of this march great changes of fortune awaited them. At
+first they started west up a slope, and on the top another pressure
+appeared on the left, but less lofty and more snow-covered than
+that which had troubled them in the morning. There was temptation
+to try this, but Scott resisted it and turned west up yet another
+slope, on the top of which they reached a most extraordinary surface.
+Narrow crevasses, that were quite invisible, ran in all directions.
+All of these crevasses were covered with a thin crust of hardened
+neve which had not a sign of a crack in it. One after another,
+and sometimes two at a time, they all fell in; and though they
+were getting fairly accustomed to unexpected falls through being
+unable to mark the run of
+[Page 366]
+the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks were covered
+with soft snow, they had never expected to find a hardened crust
+formed over a crack, and such a surface was as puzzling as it was
+dangerous and troublesome.
+
+For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow
+crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose
+crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a
+glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave place
+to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every direction.
+At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about 7,750 feet), 17
+miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling 'very cheerful
+about everything.' 'My determination,' he said, 'to keep mounting
+irrespective of course is fully justified, and I shall be indeed
+surprised if we have any further difficulties with crevasses or
+steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal seems really in
+sight.'
+
+On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single
+crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and Scott
+confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such disturbances.
+Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from crevasses--'very
+hard, smooth neve between high ridges at the edge of crevasses, and
+therefore very difficult to get foothold to pull the sledges.' To
+remedy matters they got out their ski sticks, but this did not prevent
+several of them from going half-down; while Lashly, disappearing
+completely, had to be pulled out by
+[Page 367]
+means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet deep
+and 8 feet across, in form U, showing that the word "unfathomable"
+can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and as hard as nails.
+His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.'
+
+When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge a
+better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch--at which they
+had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins--was all the more enjoyable
+because 8 miles or so had already been gained.
+
+In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land,
+but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end
+of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline
+down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped
+and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says,
+'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The
+first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored
+with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an
+arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding;
+then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and ginger.
+After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I couldn't
+finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept splendidly and
+feel thoroughly warm--such is the effect of full feeding.'
+
+The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night,
+was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15
+miles were covered
+[Page 368]
+in the day and the 86th parallel was reached. Crevasses still appeared,
+and though they avoided them on this march, they were not so lucky
+during the next stage to Camp 49.
+
+In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several
+reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer,
+and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids.
+Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi
+which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team
+that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they
+found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an
+hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled
+into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the
+party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot allow
+one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this afternoon,
+one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying and tiring.
+I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have not lost sight of
+the sun since we came on the summit; we should get an extraordinary
+record of sunshine. It is monotonous work this; the sledgemeter
+and theodolite govern the situation.'
+
+During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather'
+that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not
+improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team had
+[Page 369]
+not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for P.O.
+Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time they
+discussed the difficulties that the second party was having, and
+several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the team
+was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad stepping
+and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's party's
+sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's.
+
+On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and
+his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon,
+and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in soft
+snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling the
+sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the cause of
+the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due to want
+of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure has been
+distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &c. The party are not
+done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle with the
+trouble and get it right for themselves.'
+
+Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about
+9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which
+the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on
+two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises
+and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were
+responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was
+one satisfactory result of the
+[Page 370]
+march, for now that the second party had seen to the loading of
+their sledge they had ceased to lag.
+
+But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the
+conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52,
+on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a day,
+make a depot and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party is
+certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage with
+the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly much
+worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10 deg..) We have caught up
+Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could persuade
+myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.'
+
+Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and
+the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun
+by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work.
+Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party.
+To build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special
+record.'
+
+[Illustration: MAN HAULING CAMP, 87TH PARALLEL. _Photo by Lieut.
+H. R. Bowers._]
+
+Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they
+hoped to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A depot,
+called 'Three Degree Depot,' consisting of a week's provision for
+both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning, with
+lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while Scott's
+team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate the New
+Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole, prospects
+[Page 371]
+seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and on the next
+evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans, Lashly and Crean
+should go back after one more march.
+
+Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take
+it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a
+five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food--practically
+over a month's allowance for five people--it ought to see us
+through....  Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow;
+if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically
+safe, I take it.'
+
+By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January
+3, in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87 deg. 32".' A last note from a hopeful
+position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine party
+going forward and arrangements are all going well.'
+
+On the next morning the returning men followed a little way until
+Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then farewells
+were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans, Crean and
+Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge is a mere
+nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a quick journey
+back,' and under average conditions they should easily have fulfilled
+anticipations. But a blizzard held them up for three days before
+they reached the head of the glacier, and by the time they reached
+the foot of it E. Evans had developed symptoms of scurvy. At One
+Ton Camp he was unable to stand without the support of his ski sticks,
+[Page 372]
+and although, with the help of his companions, he struggled on for
+53 more miles in four days, he could go no farther. Rejecting his
+suggestion that he should be left alone while they pressed on for
+help, Crean and Lashly pulled him on the sledge with a devotion
+matching that of their captain years before, when he and Wilson had
+brought Shackleton, ill and helpless, safely to the _Discovery_.
+
+After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and then
+there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not travel.
+In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point, 34 miles
+away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most certainly was
+the means of keeping him alive until help came. After a remarkable
+march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and as soon as possible
+Atkinson and Demetri started off with both dog teams to relieve
+Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by persistent bad weather,
+but on February 22 Evans was got back to the _Discovery_ hut, where
+he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson; and subsequently he was
+sent by sledge to the _Terra Nova_. So ended the tale of the last
+supporting party, though, as a sequel, it is good to record that
+in reward for their gallant conduct both Lashly and Crean received
+the Albert Medal.
+
+
+
+
+[Page 373]
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE SOUTH POLE
+
+  The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep
+    As our sledge runners slid on the snow,
+  And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet
+    Struck mute like a silent blow
+  On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust
+    Shrank shivering over the floe.
+  And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back
+    Which was lost in a white fog-bow.
+
+  And this was the thought that the Silence wrought,
+    As it scorched and froze us through,
+  For the secrets hidden are all forbidden
+    Till God means man to know.
+  We might be the men God meant should know
+    The heart of the Barrier snow,
+  In the heat of the sun, and the glow,
+    And the glare from the glistening floe,
+  As it scorched and froze us through and through
+    With the bite of the drifting snow.
+
+(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by Wilson
+for the _South Polar Times_. Characteristically, he sent them in
+typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand and judge
+them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many of their readers
+confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's own premonition of
+the event. The version given is the final form, as it appeared
+in the _South Polar Times_.)
+
+The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the
+Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers
+28.
+
+[Page 374]
+After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally
+anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed.
+At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything was
+most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon
+they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose
+sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they
+camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott
+began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely believe
+that obstacles will not present themselves to make our task more
+difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to trouble us.'
+
+And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct, for
+a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a constant
+fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface was as bad as
+it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as they advanced,
+and late in the afternoon they encountered a very rough surface
+with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily the sledge showed no
+signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying to keep up a rate of
+a little over a mile and a quarter an hour was very great. However,
+they were cheered by the thought, when they reached Camp 58 (height
+10,320 feet), that they were very close to the 88th parallel, and
+a little more than 120 miles from the Pole.
+
+Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march on
+Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they advanced,
+and presently
+[Page 375]
+they found themselves in the midst of a sea of fishhook waves,
+well remembered from their Northern experience. And, to add to
+their trouble, each sastrugus was covered with a beard of sharp
+branching crystals. They took off their ski and pulled on foot,
+but both morning and afternoon the work of getting the sledge along
+was tremendous. Writing at Camp 59, Latitude 88 deg. 7', Scott said, 'We
+think of leaving our ski here, mainly because of risk of breakage.
+Over the sastrugi it is all up and down hill, and the covering of
+ice crystals prevents the sledge from gliding even on the downgrade.
+The sastrugi, I fear, have come to stay, and we must be prepared
+for heavy marching, but in two days I hope to lighten loads with
+a depot. We are south of Shackleton's last camp, so, I suppose,
+have made the most southerly camp.'
+
+During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that
+the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the
+sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched
+a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating
+the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion
+we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly.
+Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the
+sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched coating
+of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the shortest
+they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that if things
+remained for long they were, it would be impossible to keep up the
+[Page 376]
+strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however, loads were to
+be lightened on the following day by a weight of about 100 lbs.,
+and there was also hope of a better surface if only the crystal
+deposit would either harden up or disappear. Their food, too, was
+proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on such an excellent ration.
+We really are an excellently found party.' Indeed, apart from the
+strain of pulling, Scott's only anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was
+that Evans had a nasty cut on his hand.
+
+They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard;
+but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because
+he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance
+of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable bags
+within their double-walled tent would do none of them any harm. But,
+both on account of lost time and food and the slow accumulation
+of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay.
+
+'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting,
+'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office to
+the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to alleviate
+the small pains and troubles incidental to the work; now as cook,
+quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some fresh expedient
+to help the camp life; tough as steel on the traces, never wavering
+from start to finish.
+
+'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It
+is only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes
+and crampons have been
+[Page 377]
+absolutely indispensable, and if the original ideas were not his,
+the details of manufacture and design and the good workmanship
+are his alone. He is responsible for every sledge, every sledge
+fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and when one cannot recall
+a single expression of dissatisfaction with anyone of these items,
+it shows what an invaluable assistant he has been. Now, besides
+superintending the putting up of the tent, he thinks out and arranges
+the packing of the sledge; it is extraordinary how neatly and handily
+everything is stowed, and how much study has been given to preserving
+the suppleness and good running qualities of the machine. On the
+Barrier, before the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round,
+correcting faults of stowage.
+
+'Little Bowers remains a marvel--he is thoroughly enjoying himself.
+I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and at all
+times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning party
+should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute
+stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single
+mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the
+most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to this
+he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing comes
+amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty to get
+him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold, and he
+lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long after
+the others are asleep.
+
+'Of these three it is a matter for thought and
+[Page 378]
+congratulation that each is specially suited for his own work,
+but would not be capable of doing that of the others as well as
+it is done. Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period
+with the ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole
+time, does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as
+well as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So
+our five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible
+to imagine.'
+
+Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp,
+the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface
+good. So that they might keep up the average length of their daily
+marches Scott wanted to leave a depot, but as the blizzard tended
+to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident that to
+leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding. However,
+after a terribly hard march on the following morning, they decided
+to leave a depot at the lunch camp, and there they built a cairn
+and left one week's food with as many articles of clothing as they
+could possibly spare.
+
+Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface that
+was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow, and, when
+the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the slowest pace
+was distressingly difficult. On that night from Camp 62, Scott
+wrote, 'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but it's going to be
+a stiff pull _both ways_ apparently; still we do make progress,
+which is something.... It is very difficult to imagine what is
+[Page 379]
+happening to the weather.... The clouds don't seem to come from
+anywhere, form and disperse without visible reason.... The
+meteorological conditions seem to point to an area of variable light
+winds, and that plot will thicken as we advance.'
+
+From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling
+was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad
+as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and
+the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they
+had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves,
+and although when they camped for the night they were only about
+74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could
+possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes it out
+of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work before....
+Our chance still holds good if we can put the work in, but it's a
+terribly trying time.'
+
+For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the
+almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily. The
+experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for Scott had
+begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly weakening,
+and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted a good surface
+to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were within 63 miles
+of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface to help them
+on their way.
+
+But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do
+his work with characteristic
+[Page 380]
+thoroughness and imperturbability; and after this appalling march
+he insisted, in spite of Scott's protest, on taking sights after
+they had camped--an all the more remarkable display of energy as
+he, being the only one of the party who pulled on foot, had spent an
+even more strenuous day than the others, who had been 'comparatively
+restful on ski.'
+
+Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might
+to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and
+straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did
+manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which is
+very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski, though
+Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without tiring his
+short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at Camp 66 and
+less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the great difficulty
+on this march, because a light southerly wind with very low drift
+often prevented Scott from seeing anything, and Bowers, in Scott's
+shadow, gave directions. By this time the feet of the whole party
+were beginning, mainly owing to the bad condition of their finnesko,
+to suffer from the cold. 'Oates seems to be feeling the cold and
+fatigue more than the rest of us, but we are all very fit. It is
+a critical time, but we ought to pull through.... Oh! for a few
+fine days! So close it seems and only the weather to balk us.'
+
+Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they were
+all 'pretty well done' when
+[Page 381]
+they camped for lunch. There they decided to leave their last depot,
+but although their reduced load was now very light, Scott feared
+that the friction would not be greatly reduced. A pleasant surprise,
+however, was in store for him, as after lunch the sledge ran very
+lightly, and a capital march was made. 'It is wonderful,' he wrote
+on that night (January 15), 'to think that two long marches would
+land us at the Pole. We left our depot to-day with nine days'
+provisions, so that it ought to be a certain thing now, and the only
+appalling possibility the sight of the Norwegian flag forestalling
+ours. Little Bowers continues his indefatigable efforts to get
+good sights, and it is wonderful how he works them up in his
+sleeping-bag in our congested tent. Only 27 miles from the Pole.
+We _ought_ to do it now.'
+
+The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their
+noon sight showed them in Lat. 89 deg. 42' S.; and feeling that the
+following day would see them at the Pole they started off after
+lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour
+or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn,
+but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a
+sastrugus.
+
+'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we knew
+that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched on, found
+that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near by the remains
+of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and coming and the
+clear trace of dogs' paws--many dogs.
+[Page 382]
+This told us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us
+and are first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and
+I am very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and
+much discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the
+Pole and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All
+the day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly
+also the Norwegians found an easy way up.'
+
+Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of this
+discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning (January
+17) head winds with a temperature of -22 deg. added to their depression
+of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian tracks, and
+in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then, as the tracks
+became increasingly drifted up and were obviously leading them
+too far to the west, they decided to make straight for the Pole
+according to their calculations. During the march they covered
+about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his journal, 'The Pole.
+Yes, but under very different circumstances from those expected.'
+
+That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent
+to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they
+found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the
+purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not
+claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in
+estimating the honours that belong to them.
+
+[Illustration: THE PARTY AT THE SOUTH POLE. (Capt. Oates; Capt.
+Scott; P.O. Evans; Lieut. Bowers; Dr. Wilson.) _Photo by Lieut.
+H. R. Bowers._]
+
+[Page 383]
+'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and
+the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home and
+a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.'
+
+On the following morning after summing up all their observations,
+they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the
+Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction, more
+or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two miles
+from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found a record
+of five Norwegians having been there:
+
+  'Roald Amundsen
+   Olav Olavson Bjaaland
+   Hilmer Hanssen
+   Sverre H. Hassel
+   Oscar Wisting.
+                      --16 _Dec_. 1911.
+
+'The tent is fine--a small compact affair supported by a single
+bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward
+a letter to King Haakon!'
+
+In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags
+of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and
+sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian
+artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point thermometers,
+a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left a note to say I
+had visited the tent with companions. Bowers photographing and
+Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched 6.2 miles S.S.E.
+by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch gave us 1/2 to 3/4
+[Page 384]
+of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch
+-21 deg..) We built a cairn, put up our poor slighted Union Jack, and
+photographed ourselves--mighty cold work all of it--less than 1/2
+a mile south we saw stuck up an old underrunner of a sledge. This
+we commandeered as a yard for a floorcloth sail. I imagine it was
+intended to mark the exact spot of the Pole as near as the Norwegians
+could fix it. (Height 9,500.) A note attached talked of the tent
+as being 2 miles from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. There is
+no doubt that our predecessors have made thoroughly sure of their
+mark and fully carried out their program. I think the Pole is about
+9,500 feet in height; this is remarkable, considering that in Lat.
+88 deg. we were about 10,500.
+
+'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and
+left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy
+the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on
+the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz.
+Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our
+ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging--and good-bye
+to most of the day-dreams!'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 385]
+CHAPTER X
+
+ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY
+
+  It matters not how strait the gate,
+    How charged with punishments the scroll;
+  I am the master of my fate,
+    I am the Captain of my soul.--HENLEY.
+
+During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole 7
+miles behind them, and early in the march on the following morning
+picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn. These tracks
+they followed until they came to the black flag that had been the
+first means of telling them of the Norwegians' success. 'We have
+picked this flag up, using the staff for our sail, and are now
+camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our tracks. So that is
+the last of the Norwegians for the present.'
+
+In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals they
+marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found the cairns
+that they had built; but until they reached Three Degree Depot
+which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott said, could not be
+laid to rest.
+
+On the next day they reached their Southern
+[Page 386]
+Depot and picked up four days' food. With the wind behind them and
+with full sail they went along at a splendid rate in the afternoon,
+until they were pulled up by a surface on which drifting snow was
+lying in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the ski, pulling
+became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad when Bowers gets
+his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3,[1] 'I'm afraid he must find these
+long marches very trying with short legs, but he is an undefeated
+little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling the cold and fatigue more
+than most of us. It is blowing pretty hard to-night, but with a
+good march we have earned one good hoosh and are very comfortable
+in the tent. It is everything now to keep up a good marching pace;
+I trust we shall be able to do so and catch the ship. Total march,
+18-1/2 miles.'
+
+[Footnote 1: A number preceded by R. marks the camps on the return
+journey.]
+
+A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning,
+but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for
+a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand
+and 45 miles between them and their next depot, where they had
+left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three Degree
+Depot. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought to have a day
+or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty with following
+the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight for our watches
+to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks at a pinch.'
+
+January 22 brought an added worry in the fact
+[Page 387]
+that the ski boots were beginning to show signs of wear, but this
+was nothing compared with the anxiety Scott began to feel about
+Evans on the following day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a
+good deal run down--his fingers are badly blistered and his nose
+is rather seriously congested with frequent frost-bites. He is
+very much annoyed with himself, which is not a good sign. I think
+Wilson, Bowers and I are as fit as possible under the circumstances.
+Oates gets cold feet.... We are only about 13 miles from our "Degree
+and half" Depot and should get there tomorrow. The weather seems
+to be breaking up. Pray God we have something of a track to follow
+to the Three Degree Depot--once we pick that up we ought to be
+right.'
+
+Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so,
+though only seven miles from their depot, they were obliged to
+camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect
+of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey
+in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from
+frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from
+bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach the
+Half Degree Depot, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision to carry
+them the next 89 miles.
+
+During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely
+wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile
+intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first
+far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of the
+second which was far on their
+[Page 388]
+left. 'There is not a sign of our tracks between these cairns,
+but the last, marking our night camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in
+the belt of hard sastrugi, and I was comforted to see signs of the
+track reappearing as we camped. I hope to goodness we can follow
+it to-morrow.'
+
+Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these
+hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on ski,
+the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow the
+track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the best
+could only just be seen.
+
+On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been
+compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the
+difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by
+hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and
+during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy
+and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march
+they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the
+air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose
+the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand,
+they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch,
+was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags,
+although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly
+but steadily getting wetter.
+
+On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles
+[Page 389]
+from their depot with six days food in hand, after doing a good
+march of 16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds we shall
+get our depot without trouble. I shall indeed be glad to get it
+on the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is no doubt. The
+lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are pretty thin,
+especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked out. I doubt
+if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going with our light
+one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall be glad to open
+out on it.
+
+With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding
+the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday their
+position had its serious as well as its bright side, for Wilson
+strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given pain
+all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of pluck
+over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident here. To add
+to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails to-night; his
+hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows signs of losing
+heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the accident.... We
+can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be] a mighty serious
+thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.'
+
+Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three
+Degree Depot, and were able slightly to increase their rations,
+though not until they reached the pony food depot could they look
+for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface, owing
+to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson
+[Page 390]
+walking by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling
+was even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they
+picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The last
+thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we have
+only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.'
+
+Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn,
+which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper
+Glacier Depot. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that they
+would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance was having
+a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was better. On
+the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable anxiety.
+
+All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2 until
+Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same time on
+a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his shoulder.
+'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person added to our
+tent--three out of five injured, and the most troublesome surfaces to
+come. We shall be lucky if we get through without serious injury....
+The extra food is certainly helping us, but we are getting pretty
+hungry.... It is time we were off the summit--Pray God another four
+days will see us pretty well clear of it. Our bags are getting
+very wet and we ought to have more sleep.'
+
+On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so of
+the Upper Glacier Depot under Mount Darwin, and after exasperating
+delays in searching for
+[Page 391]
+tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste no more time, but to
+push due north just as fast as they could. Evans' fingers were
+still very bad, and there was little hope that he would be able
+for some time to help properly with the work, and on the following
+day an accident that entailed the most serious consequences happened.
+
+'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell into
+crevasses, Evans and I together--a second fall for Evans,[1] and I
+camped. After lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on ski over
+hard shiny descending surface. Did very well, especially towards
+end of march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not improving
+in condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather dull and
+incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal, but we
+get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of energy
+and bustle all the time.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans injured
+his brain by one of these falls.]
+
+On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made,
+but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them. Huge
+pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred their way,
+and so they had to steer more and more to the west on a very erratic
+course. Camping-time found them still in a very disturbed region,
+and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of their depot there
+seemed to be no way through the disturbances that continued to
+block their path. On turning out to continue their march they went
+straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at once
+[Page 392]
+found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these they turned
+northwards between two of them, with the result that they got into
+chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled to retrace
+their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the west they
+got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of which they
+camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended them in the
+afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated that they
+were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier Depot. 'Food
+is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that many hours of the
+day were anxious; but this evening (February 6), though we are not
+so far advanced as I expected, the outlook is much more promising.
+Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts and wounds suppurate, his
+nose looks very bad, and altogether he shows considerable signs
+of being played out. Things may mend for him on the Glacier, and
+his wounds get some respite under warmer conditions. I am indeed
+glad to think we shall so soon have done with plateau conditions.
+It took us 27 days to reach the Pole and 21 days back--in all 48
+days--nearly 7 weeks in low temperature with almost incessant wind.'
+
+February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey, opened
+with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces covered
+with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress during
+the day, and between six and seven o'clock their depot was sighted
+and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,' Scott
+wrote at R. 21,
+[Page 393]
+'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp journey and most of
+us are fit, but I think another week might have had a very bad
+effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily downhill.'
+
+On the next morning they started late owing to various re-arrangements
+having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin to get specimens.
+As Wilson was still unable to use his ski, Bowers went on and got
+several specimens of much the same type--a close-grained granite
+rock which weathers red; and as soon as Bowers had rejoined the
+party they skidded downhill fairly fast, Scott and Bowers (the
+leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on foot alongside the sledge,
+while Evans was detached.
+
+By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided
+to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some very
+irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down towards
+the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so interesting
+that, after an advance of some miles had brought escape from the
+wind, the decision was made to camp and spend the rest of the day
+in geologising.
+
+'It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under
+perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly and
+carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with his sharp
+eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last a piece of coal
+with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also some excellently
+preserved impressions of thick stems,
+[Page 394]
+showing cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small
+waves in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone
+with archeo-cyathus--the trouble is one cannot imagine where the
+stone comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur in
+the moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether
+we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being
+out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I
+hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions
+are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of
+setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly
+7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a sea
+voyage.'
+
+On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine
+to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson
+had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone.
+The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the
+Beardmore Glacier, and the labour endured in dragging the additional
+35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay;
+but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it.
+The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous
+that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved
+to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to
+solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this
+portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult
+day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for
+[Page 395]
+being too tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter
+had been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed.
+'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food satisfies
+now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and we want rest,
+yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are by no means worn
+out.'
+
+On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep
+that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great
+change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress,
+however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow,
+which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We
+have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening,
+'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within
+two outward marches from the middle glacier depot. However, if the
+weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march blindly
+on or reduce food.'
+
+The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the
+surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until,
+with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found themselves
+in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to steer east, and
+after struggling on for several hours found themselves in a regular
+trap. Having for a short time in the earlier part of the day got
+on to a good surface, they thought that all was going well and
+did not reduce their lunch rations. But half an hour after lunch
+they suddenly got into a terrible ice mess.
+
+[Page 396]
+For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that
+they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left;
+meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were moments
+when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the awful turmoil
+in which they found themselves. At length, arguing that there must
+be a way out on the left, they plunged in that direction, only
+to find that the surface was more icy and crevassed.
+
+'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into crevasses
+every minute--most luckily no bad accident. At length we saw a
+smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but knew it was
+a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in character,
+irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms, closely
+packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy work, but we
+had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and I write after
+12 hours on the march. I _think_ we are on or about the right track
+now, but we are still a good number of miles from the depot, so
+we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican meals left and
+decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch must serve for
+two if we do not make big progress. It was a test of our endurance
+on the march and our fitness with small supper. We have come through
+well.'
+
+On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well
+in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two
+hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night
+[Page 397]
+camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their depot), for
+this showed them that they were still on the right track. In the
+afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently expecting
+to reach their depot, but by a most unfortunate chance they kept too
+far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses and fissures.
+Afterwards their course became very erratic, and finally, at 9
+P.M., they landed in the worst place of all.
+
+'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a
+very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag; the
+depot doubtful in locality. We _must_ get there to-morrow. Meanwhile
+we are cheerful with an effort.'
+
+On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept well
+in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by his visits
+outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over and snow beginning
+to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting up the weather was so
+thick that they had to remain in their sleeping-bags; but presently
+the weather cleared enough for Scott dimly to see the land of the
+Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after breakfasting off some tea
+and one biscuit, so that they might leave their scanty remaining
+meal for even greater emergencies, they started to march through
+an awful turmoil of broken ice. In about an hour, however, they
+hit upon an old moraine track where the surface was much smoother,
+though the fog that was still hanging over everything added to
+their difficulties.
+[Page 398]
+Presently Evans raised their hopes with a shout of depot ahead, but
+it proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson
+suddenly saw the actual depot flag. 'It was an immense relief, and
+we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief to
+all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a meal.'
+
+Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and closed
+the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where Wilson
+detached himself and made a collection, while the others advanced
+with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February 13) at 'Camp
+R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped late, abreast the
+lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our usual satisfying
+supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of the trip and gave a
+horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are right, but we must march.
+In future food must be worked so that we do not run so short if the
+weather fails us. We mustn't get into a hole like this again....
+Bowers has had a very bad attack of snow-blindness, and Wilson
+another almost as bad. Evans has no power to assist with camping
+work.'
+
+A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days'
+food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Depot.
+On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned about
+the condition of the party, and especially about Evans, who seemed
+to be going from bad to worse.
+[Page 399]
+And on the next evening, after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't
+know our distance from the depot, but imagine about 20 miles. We
+are pulling for food and not very strong evidently.... We have
+reduced food, also sleep; feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days
+or 2 at most will see us at depot.'
+
+Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their depot,
+and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety
+about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly
+broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from his
+normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he stopped
+the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold the events
+of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead. Perhaps all
+will be well if we can get to our depot to-morrow fairly early,
+but it is anxious work with the sick man.'
+
+On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a
+little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did,
+that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in
+his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had
+to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft
+snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners at
+every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the land
+hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up again,
+but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again on the
+same plea, and asked Bowers to lend
+[Page 400]
+him a piece of string. Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly
+as he could, and he gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then
+the others were compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument
+Rock they halted and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to
+camp for lunch.
+
+At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch
+and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and all
+four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to meet the
+poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and frost-bitten
+and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was the matter, he
+replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought that he must have
+fainted.
+
+They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps
+he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse.
+Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while
+Oates remained with him.
+
+'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we got
+him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.'
+
+
+
+
+[Page 401]
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THE LAST MARCH
+
+  Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion
+  through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who,
+  over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed
+  difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction,
+  arrogance or dishonour to the victory proposed, or to the higher
+  glory of unshaken defeat.--R. KIPLING.
+
+After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on
+later in the night, and arrived at their depot; there they allowed
+themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles Camp,
+which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty of
+horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come if
+they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come with
+greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the Barrier
+surfaces.'
+
+A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had
+to be done in shifting sledges[1] and fitting up the new one with
+a mast, &c., and in packing
+[Page 402]
+horse meat and personal effects. Soon after noon, however, they
+got away, and found the surface every bit as bad as they expected.
+Moreover Scott's fears that there would not be much change during
+the next few days were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday
+afternoon they had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled
+desert sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following
+day, when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached
+Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony meat,
+but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,' Scott
+wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily followed
+this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope for better
+things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better traveling as
+we are not so fit as we were, and the season is advancing apace.'
+
+[Footnote 1: Sledges were left at the chief depots to replace damaged
+ones.]
+
+Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and
+once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away from
+the land the conditions might get better; and that this improvement
+should come and come soon was all the more necessary because they
+were approaching a critical part of their journey, in which there
+were long distances between the cairns. 'If we can tide that over
+we get on the regular cairn route, and with luck should stick to
+it; but everything depends on the weather. We never won a march
+of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but we can't go on like
+this.'
+
+[Page 403]
+Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so completely
+wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow during the next
+stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time came without a
+sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later in the day Bowers,
+feeling sure that they were too far to the west, steered out, with
+the result that another pony camp was passed by unseen. 'There is
+little doubt we are in for a rotten critical time going home, and
+the lateness of the season may make it really serious.... Looking
+at the map to-night there is no doubt we are too far to the east.
+With clear weather we ought to be able to correct the mistake, but
+will the weather clear? It's a gloomy position, more especially as
+one sees the same difficulty recurring even when we have corrected
+this error. The wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in
+the south, which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note
+that such untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.'
+
+The hopes of better weather were realized during the following
+day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind.
+Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers took
+a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came to
+the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside the
+tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them were
+happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out. Then,
+just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully
+[Page 404]
+sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite
+telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles
+of their depot. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather, we
+cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved....
+Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of cairns,
+with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of Saturday,
+February 24, the depot was reached, and there they found the store
+in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall have to be _very_
+saving with fuel.'
+
+[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in want
+of more oil than they found at the depots. Owing partly to the
+severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by their
+sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed for
+between the depots. The cold was unexpected, and at the same time
+the actual amount of oil found at the depots was less than Scott
+anticipated.
+
+The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for the
+party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days on the
+outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree to
+Upper Glacier Depot, took nearly eight marches as against ten,
+and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans
+and Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the
+Lower Glacier Depot there was little gain on the outward journey,
+partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual collapse.
+And from that time onward the marches
+[Page 405]
+of the weary but heroic travelers became shorter and shorter.
+
+As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the depots
+had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold. The oil
+in the warmth of the sun--for the tins were regularly set in an
+accessible place on the top of the cairns--tended to become vapour
+and to escape through the stoppers without damage to the tins.
+This process was much hastened owing to the leather washers about
+the stoppers having perished in the great cold.
+
+The tins awaiting the Southern party at the depots had, of course,
+been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way back could
+take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were re-stoppered,
+they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation and leakage,
+and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the shortage which
+was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.]
+
+Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at
+the depot, and with ten full days' provisions from the night of the
+24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the Mid-Barrier
+depot. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful tone, 'It is an
+immense relief to have picked up this depot, and, for the time,
+anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night, after pulling on a dreadful
+surface and only gaining four miles, he added, 'It really will
+be a bad business if we are to have this plodding all through. I
+don't know what to think, but the rapid closing
+[Page 406]
+of the season is ominous.... It is a race between the season and
+hard conditions and our fitness and good food.'
+
+Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the following
+day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The first double
+figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But what they wanted
+and what would not come was a wind to help them on their way.
+Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely needed was
+still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on their next march,
+and were within 43 miles of their next depot. Writing from 'R. 40.
+Temp. -21 deg.' on Monday night, February 26, Scott said, 'Wonderfully
+fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing dries and we get our
+feet cold too often. We want more food yet, and especially more
+fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely hope to get a better
+surface at this season, but I wish we could have some help from
+the wind, though it might shake us up badly if the temp. didn't
+rise.'
+
+Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their depot, but hunger
+was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else
+except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the
+dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety
+at next depot, but there is a horrid element of doubt.'
+
+On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at R.
+42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a blightingly
+cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The temperatures,
+[Page 407]
+however, which varied at this time between -30 deg. and -42 deg., were
+chilling them through and through, and to get their foot-gear on in
+the mornings was both a painful and a long task. 'Frightfully cold
+starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time on Thursday, February 29,
+'luckily Bowers and Oates in their last new finnesko; keeping my
+old ones for the present.... Next camp is our depot and it is exactly
+13 miles. It ought not to take more than 1-1/2 days; we pray for
+another fine one. The oil will just about spin out in that event,
+and we arrive a clear day's food in hand.'
+
+On reaching the Middle Barrier Depot, however, blow followed blow
+in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began to
+sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First they
+found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy it
+could scarcely carry them on to their next depot, 71 miles away.
+Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently frost-bitten
+by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed. And lastly
+the wind, which at first they had greeted with some joy, brought
+dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the temperature
+fell to below -40 deg., and on the next morning an hour and a half
+was spent before they could get on their foot-gear. 'Then on an
+appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks, and at lunch
+Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer street since
+there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches and feel the cold
+horribly.'
+
+Afterwards they managed to pick up the track
+[Page 408]
+again, and with a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects
+brightened a little; but on the next morning they had to labour
+upon a surface that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals,
+which were too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused
+impossible friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,'
+Scott wrote at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is
+certain. Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what
+each man feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear
+in the morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day
+more dangerous.'
+
+No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday, March
+4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except a strong
+drying wind, which at that time of the year was not likely to come.
+At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the next depot and had a
+week's food; but in spite of the utmost economy their oil could
+only last three or four days, and to pull as they were doing and
+be short of food at the same time was an absolute impossibility.
+For the time being the temperature had risen to -20 deg., but Scott
+was sure that this small improvement was only temporary and feared
+that Oates, at any rate, was in no state to weather more severe cold
+than they were enduring. And hanging over all the other misfortunes
+was the constant fear that if they did get to the next depot they
+might find the same shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I should do
+if Wilson and Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful over things.'
+
+[Page 409]
+And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic
+to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed
+such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March 4)
+consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid with
+the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,' Scott
+says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable resolution
+it is contained in that short sentence. The result, however, was
+telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially upon Oates,
+whose feet were in a terrible condition when they started to march
+on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them within 27 miles of
+their next supply of food and fuel, but by this time poor Oates
+was almost done.
+
+'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more
+hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none
+of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest
+of us Wilson is feeling them most; mainly, I fear, from his
+self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot help
+each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself. We get
+cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the wind pierces
+our worn garments. The others, all of them, are unendingly cheerful
+when in the tent. We mean to see the game through with a proper
+spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling harder than we ever pulled
+in our lives for long hours, and to feel that the progress is so slow.
+One can only say "God help us!" and plod on our weary way, cold and
+[Page 410]
+very miserable, though outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts
+of subjects in the tent, not much of food now, since we decided
+to take the risk of running a full ration. We simply couldn't go
+hungry at this time.'
+
+On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and
+the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate work,
+were only three and a half, and the total distance for the day
+was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis was near
+at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only come up in
+spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent.... If we were all
+fit I should have hopes of getting through, but the poor Soldier
+has become a terrible hindrance, though he does his utmost and
+suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th, Scott added, 'A
+little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet _very_ bad this morning;
+he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what we will do together
+at home.'
+
+At this time they were 16 miles from their depot, and if they found
+the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the surface
+helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the Mt. Hooper
+Depot, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp. 'We hope against
+hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper; then we might pull
+through.... We are only kept going by good food. No wind this morning
+till a chill northerly air came ahead. Sun bright and cairns showing
+up well. I should like to keep the track to the end.'
+
+Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time
+[Page 411]
+on the 8th to within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time
+spent over foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer.
+'Have to wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start
+changing, and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet
+giving trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help
+to others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the
+depot? If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good distance,
+but if there is another short allowance of fuel, God help us indeed.
+We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.'
+
+On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper
+Depot. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round. I don't
+know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have been our
+salvation have evidently failed.'
+
+[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting
+with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return to
+Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and calculating
+from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson expected him to
+reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There Cherry-Garrard
+met four days of blizzard, with the result that when the weather
+cleared he had little more than enough dog food to take the teams
+home. Under these circumstances only two possible courses were
+open to him, either to push south for one more march and back with
+imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to stay two days
+at the Camp where Scott was bound to come,
+[Page 412]
+if he came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at
+One Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.]
+
+With the depot reached and no relief to the situation gained, Scott
+was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily downhill,' but
+for the time being Oates' condition was by far the most absorbing
+trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th. 'He has rare
+pluck and must know that he can never get through. He asked Wilson
+if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill had to say he
+didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart from him, if he
+went under now, I doubt whether we could get through. With great
+care we might have a dog's chance, but no more.... Poor chap! it
+is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot but try to cheer him up.'
+
+On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for
+half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face
+such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following
+morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast
+that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks. At
+the most they gained little more than six miles during the day,
+and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if they
+got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and should
+be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42, leaving
+us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get no worse.'
+
+Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or
+he will do, God only knows. We
+[Page 413]
+discussed the matter after breakfast; he is a brave fine fellow
+and understands the situation, but he practically asked for advice.
+Nothing could be said but to urge him to march as long as he could.
+One satisfactory result to the discussion: I practically ordered
+Wilson to hand over the means of ending our troubles to us, so
+that any of us may know how to do so. Wilson had no choice between
+doing so and our ransacking the medicine case.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and
+more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them
+altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they
+started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through
+their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold,
+could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made
+camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly
+cold.... We _must_ go on, but now the making of every camp must
+be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, but a
+pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be like
+to-morrow.'
+
+Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once spared
+himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing could be
+more pathetic and significant than the fact that at last he was
+unable any longer to keep a daily record of this magnificent journey.
+
+'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think
+the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most
+[Page 414]
+unendurable conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable
+tribute to his dead companion.
+
+'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday,
+poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should
+leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced
+him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful nature
+for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night he was
+worse and we knew the end had come.
+
+'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last
+thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride
+in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold way
+in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery. He has
+borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and to the
+very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects. He
+did not--would not--give up hope till the very end. He was a brave
+soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before last,
+hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning--yesterday. It was
+blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and may be
+some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not seen
+him since.
+
+'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick
+companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely
+out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder
+seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully removed
+him at this critical moment. He died
+[Page 415]
+a natural death, and we did not leave him till two hours after his
+death.
+
+'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though we
+tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man and
+an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a similar
+spirit, and assuredly the end is not far.
+
+'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold is
+intense, -40 deg. at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful,
+but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we
+constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us
+believes it in his heart.
+
+'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals. Yesterday
+we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move dreadfully slowly.
+We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony marches from One Ton Depot.
+We leave here our theodolite, a camera, and Oates' sleeping-bags.
+Diaries, etc., and geological specimens carried at Wilson's special
+request, will be found with us or on our sledge.'
+
+At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within
+21 miles of One Ton Depot, but wind and drift came on and they had
+to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and we are
+worn out _nearly_.
+
+'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes--two days ago I was
+the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of my downfall.
+Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with my melted
+pemmican--it
+[Page 416]
+gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake and in pain all night;
+woke and felt done on the march; foot went and I didn't know it. A
+very small measure of neglect and have a foot which is not pleasant
+to contemplate.
+
+'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much to
+choose after all. The others are still confident of getting through--or
+pretend to be--I don't know! We have the last _half_ fill of oil in
+our primus and a very small quantity of spirit--this alone between
+us and thirst.'
+
+On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but after
+a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin of cocoa,
+they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough to get some
+sleep.
+
+Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against
+persistent misfortune.
+
+'_March_ 19.--Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging manner.
+Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the depot and
+ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two days'
+food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting bad--Wilson's
+best, my right foot worst, left all right. There is no chance to
+nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us. Amputation is
+the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble spread? That
+is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us a chance;
+the wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Page 417]
+During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton
+Depot, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday a
+severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott wrote:
+'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depot for fuel.'
+
+But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23. Blizzard
+bad as ever--Wilson and Bowers unable to start--to-morrow last
+chance--no fuel and only one or two of food left--must be near
+the end. Have decided it shall be natural--we shall march for the
+depot with or without our effects and die in our tracks.'
+
+'_March_ 29.--Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale from
+W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece, and
+bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been ready
+to start for our depot 11 _miles_ away, but outside the door of
+the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do not think we
+can hope for any better things now. We shall stick it out to the
+end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot be
+far.
+
+'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more.
+
+                                   'R. SCOTT.
+
+'Last entry For God's sake look after our people.'
+
+[Page 418]
+After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on March
+16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson and
+Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When, however,
+this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to be done until
+the winter was over.
+
+During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party devolved
+upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances showed qualities
+that are beyond all praise. At the earliest possible moment (October
+30) a large party started south. 'On the night of the 11th and
+morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says, 'after we had marched 11 miles
+due south of One Ton, we found the tent. It was an object partially
+snowed up and looking like a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks
+and in front of them a bamboo which probably was the mast of the
+sledge...
+
+'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson,
+and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it
+had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.'
+
+Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their
+sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally close
+them.
+
+[Illustration: 'THE LAST REST'. The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr. Wilson,
+and Lieut. Bowers. _Photo by Lieut. T. Gran._]
+
+Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag
+and opened his coat. The little wallet
+[Page 419]
+containing the three notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm
+flung across Wilson.
+
+Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological
+specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore
+Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the
+very end, though disaster stared them in the face.
+
+'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the
+outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well
+into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.'
+
+Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed, and
+on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in the snow.
+Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was placed, containing
+a metal cylinder, and in this the following record was left:
+
+'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross
+and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O.,
+R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant H.
+R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine--a slight token to perpetuate their
+successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This they did
+on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition had already
+done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was the cause of their
+death. Also to commemorate their two gallant comrades, Captain L.
+E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons, who walked to his death
+[Page 420]
+in a blizzard to save his comrades about eighteen miles south of
+this position; also of Seaman Edgar Evans, who died at the foot of
+the Beardmore Glacier.
+
+'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away; blessed be the name of
+the Lord."'
+
+[Page 421]
+With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:--
+
+
+_To Mrs. E. A. Wilson_
+
+My DEAR MRS. WILSON,
+
+If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together.
+We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid
+he was at the end--everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice
+himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him
+into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor
+discomforts.
+
+His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is peaceful
+with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself as part of
+the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to comfort you
+than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave, true man--the
+best of comrades and staunchest of friends.
+
+My whole heart goes out to you in pity.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+_To Mrs. Bowers_
+
+My DEAR MRS. BOWERS,
+
+I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows
+of your life.
+
+I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am
+finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of
+these is your son. He
+[Page 422]
+had come be one of my closest and soundest friends, and I appreciate
+his wonderful upright nature, his ability and energy. As the troubles
+have thickened his dauntless spirit ever shone brighter and he has
+remained cheerful, hopeful, and indomitable to the end.
+
+The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some reason
+why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken.
+
+My whole heart goes out in pity for you.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what a
+happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look back
+on nothing but happiness.
+
+He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the
+end, believing in God's mercy to you.
+
+
+_To Sir J. M. Barrie_
+
+My DEAR BARRIE,
+
+We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter
+may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell.... More
+practically I want you to help my widow and my boy--your godson.
+We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold spirit,
+fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have accomplished
+our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have done everything
+[Page 423]
+possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to save sick
+companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen of the
+future, and that the country ought to help those who are left behind
+to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson, Wilson leaves
+a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble circumstances. Do
+what you can to get their claims recognized. Goodbye. I am not
+at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many a humble pleasure
+which I had planned for the future on our long marches. I may not
+have proved a great explorer, but we have done the greatest march
+ever made and come very near to great success. Goodbye, my dear
+friend.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long
+way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent,
+to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will
+do when we get to Hut Point.
+
+_Later_.--We are very near the end, but have not and will not lose
+our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our tent and no where's
+food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves when things proved
+like this, but we have decided to die naturally in the track.
+
+As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child. Give
+the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought to have
+good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom I admired and
+[Page 424]
+loved more than you, but I never could show you how much your friendship
+meant to me, for you had much to give and I nothing.
+
+
+_To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart._
+
+Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5 deg..
+
+My DEAR SIR EDGAR,
+
+I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves
+the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and
+we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave
+behind.
+
+I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your
+generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we stuck
+by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the end. I
+think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power to
+endure has not passed out of our race....
+
+Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself
+again and again to the sick men of the party....
+
+I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some
+time after we are found next year.
+
+We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it,
+but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is
+to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we
+have lacked support.
+
+Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife.
+
+  Yours ever sincerely,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+[Page 425]
+_To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B._
+
+My DEAR SIR FRANCIS,
+
+I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few letters
+which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank you for
+the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you how
+extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I want to
+tell you that I was _not_ too old for this job. It was the younger
+men that went under first.... After all we are setting a good example
+to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight place, by facing
+it like men when we were there. We could have come through had
+we neglected the sick.
+
+Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+Excuse writing--it is -40 deg.; and has been for nigh a month.
+
+
+_To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B._
+
+My DEAR SIR GEORGE,
+
+I fear we have shot our bolt--but we have been to Pole and done
+the longest journey on record.
+
+I hope these letters may find their destination some day.
+
+Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness
+of different members of the party, but
+[Page 426]
+the real thing that has stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected
+cold towards the end of the journey.
+
+This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe
+as any experience we had on the summit.
+
+There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my
+calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the
+base and petering out.
+
+Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty
+is concerned.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your
+kindness.
+
+
+_To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch._
+
+March 24th, 1912.
+
+MY DEAR KINSEY,
+
+I'm afraid we are pretty well done--four days of blizzard just
+as we were getting to the last dopot. My thoughts have been with
+you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition
+through, I'm sure.
+
+My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can for
+them if the country won't.
+
+I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know
+the circumstances well enough.
+
+If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have little
+to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country need
+not be ashamed of us--our
+[Page 427]
+journey has been the biggest on record, and nothing but the most
+exceptional hard luck at the end would have caused us to fail to
+return. We have been to the S. pole as we set out. God bless you
+and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is good to remember you and your kindness.
+
+  Your friend,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William
+Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs.
+Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following extracts:
+
+The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow
+to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort
+in that I die at peace with the world and myself--not afraid.
+
+Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks I
+have taken never seemed excessive.
+
+...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a
+narrow margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a
+journey.... After all, we have given our lives for our country--we
+have actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been
+the first Englishmen at the South Pole.
+
+You must understand that it is too cold to write much.
+
+...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right.
+
+[Page 428]
+I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh from
+harness and full of good health and vigour. This is decided
+already--when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless we
+are within easy distance of another depot. Therefore you must not
+imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course, and have
+been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and our appetites
+compensate for all discomfort.
+
+Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depot, with
+one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got through
+but have been held for _four_ days by a frightful storm. I think
+the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill ourselves,
+but to fight to the last for that depot, but in the fighting there
+is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable must be faced.
+You urged me to be leader of this party, and I know you felt it
+would be dangerous.
+
+Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is better
+than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know you will
+keep him in the open air.
+
+Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence.
+Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous
+as you know--had always an inclination to be idle.
+
+There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole in
+my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and other
+trifles. Send a small
+[Page 429]
+piece of the Union Jack to the King and a small piece to Queen
+Alexandra.
+
+What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much better
+has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home. What tales
+you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay.
+
+Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his
+putting me in command of the _Discovery_.
+
+[Page 430]
+MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC
+
+The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization, but
+to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken.
+
+1. The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start
+   later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff
+   transported to be narrowed.
+
+2. The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially
+   the long gale in 83 deg. S., stopped us.
+
+3. The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace.
+
+We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but it
+cut into our provision reserve.
+
+Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depots made on
+the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles
+to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party
+would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus
+of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had
+least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man
+of the party.
+
+The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on
+our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this with
+a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties.
+
+As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and Edgar
+Evans received a concussion of
+[Page 431]
+the brain--he died a natural death, but left us a shaken party with
+the season unduly advanced.
+
+But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise
+which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements
+for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world would
+have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we encountered at
+this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85 deg., 86 deg. we had -20 deg.,
+-30 deg.. On the Barrier in lat. 82 deg., 10,000 feet lower, we had -30 deg. in
+the day, -47 deg. at night pretty regularly, with continuous head wind
+during our day marches. It is clear that these circumstances come on
+very suddenly, and our wreck is certainly due to this sudden advent
+of severe weather, which does not seem to have any satisfactory
+cause. I do not think human beings ever came through such a month
+as we have come through, and we should have got through in spite
+of the weather but for the sickening of a second companion, Captain
+Oates, and a shortage of fuel in our depots for which I cannot
+account, and finally, but for the storm which has fallen on us
+within 11 miles of the depot at which we hoped to secure our final
+supplies. Surely misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last
+blow. We arrived within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel
+for one last meal and food for two days. For four days we have been
+unable to leave the tent--the gale howling about us. We are weak,
+writing is difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this
+[Page 432]
+journey, which has shewn that Englishmen can endure hardships, help
+one another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the
+past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out
+against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but bow to
+the will of Providence, determined still to do our best to the last.
+But if we have been willing to give our lives to this enterprise,
+which is for the honour of our country, I appeal to our countrymen
+to see that those who depend on us are properly cared for.
+
+Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood,
+endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the
+heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must
+tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours
+will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided
+for.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+[Illustration: British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart
+of main southern journey.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Abbott, George P., P.O. 209, 242, 260
+Adelie Land 35
+Admiralty, the, 8, 18, 182-3, 200, 206
+Alaska 11
+_Albemarle_, H.M.S., 206
+Albert Medal, the, 372
+Alexandra, Queen, 31, 429
+Alpine Rope, 256-7, 266, 274, 367
+_Amphion_, H.M.S., 11
+Amundsen, Roald, 259-60, 301, 324, 346, 383, 428
+Anton, Groom, 209, 276, 278, 280, 285, 289, 299
+Archer, W. W., chief steward, 209
+Armitage, Lieut. A. B., 25, 32, 43, 57, 63, 89, 97, 103, 105, 138,
+  153-4, 176, 178
+Arnold, M., _quoted_, 151, 178
+Arrival Bay, 60
+  Heights, 60, 234
+Athletic sports, 137-8
+Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist, 208, 213, 224,
+  236, 243, 259, 261, 267, 270, 273, 279-80, 284, 285-6, 295
+  _seq._, 308, 319, 320-1, 327, 329, 330, 336, 340, 344, 354-5,
+  362-3, 372, 411, 418-19
+Auckland Islands, 195
+Australia, Government of, 207
+
+Balaclave helmets, 251
+Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J., 16
+Balleny, Capt. John, 197
+  Islands, 196-7
+Balloons, ascents of, 57, 281
+Barne, Lieut. Michael, 26, 32, 43, 53, 61, _seq._, 80, 87,
+  98-9, 100, 104, 106, 108, 131-2, 147, 149, 152, 155, 176
+  Glacier, 275
+Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to, 422-4
+Barrier, Great Ice, 53, _seq._, 90, 176, 203, 222, 224-5, 241,
+  243, 246, 260 _seq._, 294, 304, 305, 321, 377
+Bay of Whales, 259-60
+Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis, 427
+Beppo, pony, 7
+Berlin, 17, 20
+Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist, 27, 43, 53, 75, 85-6, 135, 147, 152, 176
+Birdie, dog, 108-9, 126
+Birthday, celebrations of, 286-7
+Biscay, Bay of, 32
+Bismarck, dog, 108
+Bjaaland, Olav Olavson, 383
+Blanco, dog, 108
+Blissett, A. H., 132
+_Blizzard, The_, 80
+Blossom, pony, 250
+Blucher, pony, 248, 250, 258
+Bluff, The, 130
+  Camp, 250, 336
+Boats, mishap to, 84, 85, 139, 140
+Bones, pony, 299, 308
+Bonner, Charles, 38-9
+Borchgrevink, 43
+Boss, dog, 108
+Bowers, Lieut. H. R., 28, 208, 216, 224, 230-1, 234-236, 243, 247,
+  249, 250-4, 261-7, 270, 273, 275, 278-81, 283-4, 286, 289, 293-5,
+  299, 300-8, 311-14, 317, 319, 320, 322, 324-5, 334, 343-5, 352,
+  354, 357-8, 359, 364, 368, 371, 373 _seq._
+Bowers, Mrs., letter to, 421-2
+Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to, 425
+_Britannia, The_, 6
+British Museum, the, 19
+Brownie, dog, 100, 108-9
+Browning, E. B., _quoted_, 328
+Browning, Frank V., P.O., 209, 242
+Bruce, Canon Lloyd, 207
+Bruce, Kathleen, 207
+Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M., 209, 224
+Buckingham Palace Road, 15
+_Bulwark_, H.M.S., 206
+Burlington House, 19
+Butter Point, 157, 260, 314
+
+Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A., 208, 216, 224, 226, 229, 232, 233,
+  238, 240-1, 242, 259-60, 292, 315
+Cape Adare, 42, 43, 45, 141
+  Armitage, 59, 225, 259, 263
+  Bernacchi, 315
+  Bird, 225
+  Crozier, 52, 61, 64, 69, 70, 105, 137, 141-2, 155-6, 176, 222-3, 281
+  Crozier Party, 294, 300-7, 317
+  Evans, 225, 234-5, 239, 246, 260, 268, 271-3, 280, 300, 316-17, 321,
+    328, 365
+  Jones, 48
+  Mackay, 301
+  North, 146, 189, 196, 198, 260
+  of Good Hope, 32-3
+  Royds, 180, 185, 286
+  Sibbald, 49
+  Wadworth, 47
+  Washington, 49, 52
+Cardiff, 207, 211
+Castle Rock, 60, 62, 64, 65, 262, 273
+Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain, 209
+Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist, 224, 236, 243, 251-2,
+  254-6, 257-8, 261-6, 270-1, 273, 279-81, 284, 288, 294, 300-7, 308,
+  318, 323, 329, 334, 340, 342, 344, 347, 352, 354, 362, 364, 411-12,
+  418
+Chinaman, pony, 308, 318, 329-30, 332-3, 336, 338-9, 340-41
+Christiania, 89
+Christopher, pony, 308-9, 318-19, 320, 329, 333, 336, 342
+Clarke, Charles, ship's cook, 179
+Clissold, Thomas, cook, 209, 276, 278, 280, 286, 289, 296, 319, 329
+Coal, 46, 189, 194, 216, 218-19, 220
+Colbeck, Captain William, 141-2, 143, 147, 182-3, 185, 194, 198
+Coleridge, _quoted_, 211
+Colville, Rear-Admiral, 206
+Commonwealth Range, 357
+Cook, Capt. James, 31
+Corner Camp, 247, 261, 263, 270, 312, 314, 317, 372
+Coulman Islands, 46, 47, 141
+Crater Heights, 60, 234
+  Hill, 60, 69, 88
+Crean, Thomas, P.O., 209, 237, 243, 259, 261, 262-5, 270, 273,
+  278-80, 285, 296, 299, 308, 318, 321, 323, 344, 354, 364, 370-2
+Cross, Jacob, P.O., 48, 103, 155-6
+'Cruise of the _Beagle_,' 162
+Cuts, pony, 262, 264
+
+Dailey, F. E., carpenter, 59, 153, 157
+Darwin, Charles, 162
+Day, Bernard C., motor engineer, 208, 227, 236, 276-7, 279, 290-1,
+  299, 318, 321, 323, 329, 330-1, 339, 340
+Debenham, Frank, geologist, 208, 236, 242, 270, 273, 281-2, 283,
+  296, 325-6, 327
+Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer, 138
+  Islets, 178
+Demetri, dog driver, 209, 276, 278-9, 289, 311, 329, 333, 354,
+  356, 372, 411, 418
+Dennistoun, James R., 209
+Depot Nunatak, 171
+Desolation Camp, _Discovery_ Expedition, 163, 172
+  Last Expedition, 402
+Dickason, Harry, A.B., 209, 242
+_Discovery_, the fifth, 21
+Dog food, 109
+Dogs, 59, 71-2, 95-7, 107 _seq._, 212-13, 218, 226, 228, 239,
+  241, 243 _seq._, 270, 278, 285-6, 311, 329, 333 _seq._,
+  411
+Douglas, Sir Archibald, 18
+Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster, 209, 224
+Dundee, 19, 20, 23
+  Shipbuilding Company, 17
+
+East India Docks, 20
+Edward VII, King, 31
+Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B., 15, 81, 206, 425-6 (letter to)
+Enderby Quadrant, 29
+Entertainments, 85, 86, 87
+Erebus Tongue, 315
+Esquimault. B.C., 11
+Esquimaux, 301, 307
+Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R., 208, 215, 223-5, 232, 236, 242-3, 250,
+  258, 262, 311, 314, 317, 330-1, 337-40, 344, 354-5, 357-9, 361,
+  363, 364, 368, 370-2
+Evans, P.O., 63, 65, 67-8, 97, 105, 153, 157, 164, 165 _seq._,
+  178-9, 209, 237, 242, 270, 273, 280, 285-6, 296, 308, 311-12,
+  317, 323-4, 326-7, 329, 337, 344, 352, 354-5, 364, 369
+
+Falkland Islands, 199
+Feather, Thomas A., boatswain, 100-1, 157, 161, 162, 164-5
+Fefer, 229
+Ferrar, Hartley T., 27, 48, 67, 97, 103, 138, 157, 159, 163, 176
+  Glacier, 152-3, 154, 158-9, 314
+Finance Committee, 17-18
+Fire, alarm of, 32
+Fisher, Admiral Sir John, 10
+Fitzclarence, dog, 108
+Football, 286, 325
+Forde, Robert, P.O., 209, 243, 248, 250, 258, 261, 270, 273, 279,
+  312, 314, 317, 326-7
+_Fram_, the, 20, 21
+Franklin Island, 141
+Franz-Josef Land, 25
+
+Gap, the, 60, 234
+Gateway, the, 352
+Geological specimens, 393-4, 398, 419
+Gerof, Demetri. _See_ Demetri
+Glacier, the Beardmore, 312, 338-9, 341, 345, 346, 349, 352, 354
+  _seq._, 392, 394, 419-20
+Glacier Depot, 349, 352
+  Tongue, 225, 237, 239-41, 260, 274, 315-16, 324, 344
+Gran Tryggve, ski expert, 208, 218, 236, 243, 251, 254, 261-2,
+  263, 265, 267, 273, 295-6, 312, 314, 317, 327
+Granite Harbor, 50, 51
+Grannie, dog, 108
+Gus, dog, 108, 125
+
+Haakon, King, 383
+Hackenschmidt, pony, 276
+Half-Degree Depot, 387
+Hamilton, B. T., 229
+Hampton Court Palace, 207
+Handsley. Jesse, A.B., 153, 157, 164-5, 175, 178-9
+Hanson, 43
+Hanssen, Hilmer, 383
+Hare, 63, 65, 68-9
+Hassel, Sverre H., 383
+Heald, William L., A.B., 62, 103, 176, 210
+Henley, W. E., _quoted_, 385
+'Hints to Travelers', 159-60
+Hobart Town, 182
+Hockey, 149
+Hodgson, Thomas V., 25, 27, 147, 149, 154
+Hooper, F. J., steward, 209, 276, 279, 280, 289, 339-40
+Hoskins, Sir Anthony, 18
+Hut, the _Discovery_, 59, 85-86, 87, 233, 239, 269 _seq._, 372
+  at Cape Evans, 227, 231, 234 _seq._, 275 _seq._
+  Point, 60, 88, 186, 190-1, 233, 240, 242-3, 258, 260-3, 265, 267,
+    271, 279, 285, 311, 318, 324, 327-9, 372, 411, 418
+Hutton Rocks, 273
+Huxley, _quoted_, 311
+
+Icebergs, 44 Inaccessible Island, 297, 316
+
+Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition, 25 Jehu, pony, 308, 318, 328-9,
+330, 332-6, 338-9, 340 Jim, dog, 108-9, 125-6, 129 Joe, dog, 108
+
+Kennar, Thomas, P.O., 157, 159
+Keohane, Patrick, P.O., 209, 243, 250, 258, 261, 273, 279, 296, 308,
+  320, 327, 329, 340, 344, 348, 354, 357, 362, 418
+Kid, dog, 108-9, 125
+King Edward's Island, 56, 203, 233, 242
+Kinsey, J. J., letter to, 426-7
+Kipling, Rudyard, _quoted_, 401
+Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist, 25, 27, 61, _seq._,
+  78, 97, 138, 175
+
+Lantaret, 229
+Lashly, William, leading stoker, 97, 105, 153, 157, 162, 164, 165
+  _seq._, 178, 179, 209, 214, 276, 278-9, 299, 323, 331, 340,
+  344, 354-5, 364, 366-7, 369, 371-2
+Lectures, 282, 287, 290, 307-8
+Levick, G. Murray, surgeon, R.N., 208, 242
+Lewis, dog, 108-9, 126
+Lillehammer, 229
+Lillie, Denis G., biologist, 209, 240
+London Docks, 31, 141
+Lower Glacier Depot, 356, 398, 404
+Lyttelton, 37-8, 211-12
+  Heads, 37, 199
+
+Macartney, Sir William Ellison, 427
+Mackay, Captain Harry, 182, 190
+Macquarie Island, 36, 37, 185
+Magnetic huts, 75
+  Observatory, 23
+Magnetism, 75
+_Majestic_, H.M.S., 15, 18, 26, 27
+Markham, Sir Clements, 15, 16, 29, 30, 141, 203 _seq._ (preface),
+  429
+Markham, Lady, 20
+McMurdo Sound, 51, 58, 138, 142, 194, 230, 237, 260
+Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs, 208, 218, 226, 232-4, 236,
+  239, 240, 242-4, 246-8, 251-2, 254-8, 261, 263, 265, 267, 273,
+  279, 285, 299, 311-12, 318-19, 327, 329, 333, 337, 354, 356
+Merchant Shipping Act, 28
+Meridians, 217
+Message to the public, 430-2
+Meteorological observations, 74, 75, 83, 84
+  screens, 71, 74
+Michael, pony, 308, 347
+Middle Barrier Depot, 340, 405, 407
+Midwinter celebrations, 290-3
+Milton, _quoted_, 254
+Monument Rock, 400
+_Morning_, the, 43, 53, 135, 141-6, 181 _seq._, 194, 198
+Motor sledges, 212, 226-30, 290, 312-13, 318, 321, 326-7, 329-30, 332
+Mount Buckley, 393-4
+  Cloudmaker, 357-98
+  Darwin, 364, 390, 391, 393
+  Discovery, 225
+  Erebus, 131, 235, 274, 316
+  Hooper Depot, 410, 411
+  Hope, 346
+  Longstaff, 122
+  Markham, 124
+  Melbourne, 49
+  Monteagle, 49
+  Murchison, 49
+  Sabine, 222
+  Terror, 302
+  Whewell, 222
+Mulock, Lieut. George F. A., 27, 145, 149, 152, 176, 193, 195, 197
+
+Nansen, Dr., 17, 19, 20, 89
+Naval Discipline Act, 28
+Nell, dog, 101, 108-9, 125-6, 129
+Nelson, Edward W., biologist, 208, 224, 227, 236, 276-7, 279, 287,
+  319-20
+Newbolt, Henry, _quoted_, 31
+New Harbor, 153, 157, 315
+Newnes, Sir George, 43
+New Zealand, 23, 37, 38, 199, 211
+New Zealand, Government of, 207
+Nigger, dog, 101, 108-9, 125-6, 129
+Nobby, pony, 262, 268, 308, 325, 342-3, 351, 353
+Northern Party, 233, 242-3
+Norway, 17, 89
+Norwegians, the, 384-5
+
+Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G., 208, 213, 220, 226, 236, 239-40, 241,
+  243, 248-9, 252, 254, 261-2, 263, 265, 267, 270, 273, 279-80,
+  284-5, 299, 308, 318-20, 321, 333, 336-7, 343-4, 351, 354-5, 364,
+  373 _seq._
+Outlands, 2, 5
+Observatory Hill, 60, 134, 234
+Oil, shortage of, 404-5, 408, 411, 416
+'Old Mooney,' 6, 8, 9
+Omelchenko, Anton. _See_ Anton
+One Ton Camp, 253, 317, 326-7, 371, 410-11, 412, 415, 417
+Osman, dog, 255-6
+
+P. and O. Company, 25
+Pack-ice, 35 _seq._, 44, 49, 51, 196, 216-17, 218
+Parry Mountains, 54
+Peary, Lieutenant, 28
+Penguins, 36, 40, 148, 180, 226
+  Emperor, 106, 137, 153, 155, 223, 294, 302, 305
+  King, 36
+Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L., 209, 224, 230, 238
+Petrels, 35
+  Antarctic, 40
+  Giant, 40
+  Southern Fulmar, 40
+  White Snow, 40
+  Wilson stormy, 35
+Pigg, James, pony, 250, 258, 261, 263, 268, 308, 318, 329, 340, 342
+Plumley, Frank, stoker, 62, 157
+Pole, the South, 382 _seq._
+  Camp, 384
+Ponies, the, 212-15, 220, 226, 239, 241, 243 _seq._, 263-7,
+  285-6, 312, 318, 332 _seq._
+Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist, 208, 219, 227-8, 236, 276-7,
+  282, 284, 292, 314, 319, 327, 329
+Port Chalmers, 38, 39, 76, 212
+  Ross, 195
+  Stanley, 199
+Possession Islands, 141
+Pram Point, 263, 269
+  Bay, 269
+  Ridges, 267
+_President_, H.M.S., 206
+Pressure Ridges, 319
+Priestley, Raymond E., geologist, 208, 223, 242, 260
+Proverbs, _quoted_, 137
+Punch, pony, 262, 266
+
+Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker, 63, 65, 67-8, 105, 175
+
+Razor Back Islands, 240, 274
+Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P., 209, 224
+Roberston Bay, 42, 195
+Rodd, Sir Rennell, _quoted_, 231
+Ross, Sir James, 31, 40, 46, 54-5, 196-7
+Ross Harbor, 198
+  Island, 176, 203, 239
+  Quadrant, 29
+  Sea, 216
+_Rover_, H.M.S., 10
+Royal Geographical Society, 17
+Royal Society, 17
+Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R., 18, 26, 53, 61 _seq._, 74-5, 78,
+  85-7, 97, 105, 132, 137, 139, 147, 149, 155, 176
+Russell Islands, 197
+
+Safety Camp, 243-4, 245-6, 254, 258-9, 261-2, 263, 265, 329-30
+San Francisco, 11
+Sawing-camp, 175, 178-9
+_Saxon_, S.S., 207
+Scamp, dog, 37
+Scott, John Edward, 1
+Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to, 427, 428, 429, _et passim_
+Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to, 427
+Scott of Brownhead, 1
+Scott, Peter Markham, 207
+Scurvy, 103-4, 117, 129, 134, 144, 148, 371
+Sea leopard, 41
+  elephant, 185
+Seals, 41, 48, 269, 279
+  crab-eater, 41
+  Ross, 41
+Shackleton, Sir Ernest H., 27, 79, 98, 107 _seq._, 143, 145,
+  233, 344, 352, 357, 370, 372, 375
+Shackleton's hut, 286
+Shakespeare, _quoted_, 95, 120, 294, 354
+Shambles Camp, 353, 401
+Shelley, _quoted_, 74, 167
+Ship Committee, 17, 20, 23
+Simon's Bay, 32, 33
+Simpson. George C., Meteorologist, 208, 231, 236, 277, 281-2, 283,
+  312, 316
+Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W., 18, 27, 60 _seq._, 85-6, 105,
+  135, 138, 147-8, 153, 162, 164-5, 176, 191-3, 229
+Ski, 19, 60, 61, 130, 173, 246, 340, 354-5, 358, 360, 370, 375,
+  386, 388, 390
+Ski-shoes, 361
+Skua gulls, 40, 148, 180
+Skuary, the, 225
+Sledge equipment, 89, 151, 312
+Sledges, 91, 92, 279, 280, 370
+Sleeping-bags, 304, 306, 307, 388
+Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald, 427
+Smith's Inlet, 260
+Snatcher, dog, 108, 115
+  pony, 308, 325, 329, 352
+Snippets, pony, 308-9, 328, 332, 341, 343
+Snow-shoes, for ponies, 245, 247, 308, 352
+South Africa, Government of, 207
+Southern Barrier Depot, 342
+  Road, the, 239-40
+South Polar Times, _Discovery_ Expedition, 79-80
+  Last Expedition, 281, 290-1, 373
+Spenser, _quoted_, 52
+Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to, 424
+Spud, dog, 108-9, 115
+Stareek, dog, 244-5
+Stoke Damerel, 5
+Stripes, dog, 108
+Stubbington House, Fareham, 5
+Sturge Island, 197
+Sun, eclipse of, 156
+Sverdrup's 'New Land', 295
+
+Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist, 208, 223, 236, 242, 270, 273-4,
+  281-2, 283, 287, 291, 327
+Telephone, the, 318-19
+Tent, double, 295
+Tent, Island, 297, 325
+  Islet, 184
+_Terra Nova_, Discovery Expedition, 182-3, 187 _seq._, 194, 198
+  Last Expedition, 207, 211, 220, 237, 292, 324, 372
+Thermometer, minimum, 253, 337
+Thomson, Sir Courtauld, 11
+Three Degree Depot, 370, 385-6, 387, 389, 404
+Transport, 312, 345
+Turtle Back Island, 271
+
+Uncle Bill, pony, 262-3
+Uniform overcoat, 309
+Union Jack, the, 235, 291, 384, 428-9
+Upper Glacier Depot, 390, 392, 404
+
+Vic, dog, 108
+Victor, pony, 308-9, 325, 334, 343
+Victoria, B.C., 11
+  Land, 42, 76, 138, 167, 176, 196, 203, 233, 260
+  Quadrant, 29
+_Victorious_, H.M.S., 206
+Vince, A. B., 63, 66-9, 190, 234
+
+Weary Willy, pony, 245, 251, 261-3
+Weddell Quadrant, 29
+Weller, William J., A.B., 48, 62, 157
+Western Geological Party (1), 242, 260, 270
+  (2) 317, 325, 327
+Western Mountains, 312, 325
+Whales, killer, 227-8
+White Island, 134, 261, 264
+Wild, Frank, 62-3, 66, 67, 97, 105, 344
+Wilkes, Commodore, 197
+Wilkes Land, 198
+Williams, William, engineer, 209, 214
+Williamson, Thomas S., P.O., 157, 209, 229
+Wilson, Dr.  E.  A., chief, the scientific staff (Last Expedition),
+  zoologist, 5, 26-8, 35-6, 48-9, 53, 75-6, 80, 103, 107
+  _seq._, 143-4, 147, 153, 155-6, 176, 180-1, 185, 195, 208, 219-20,
+  223, 225, 231, 236, 240, 242-4, 246-8, 254-6, 258, 261, 263, 265,
+  267, 269-70, 272-3, 279-80, 286, 289, 294, 300-7, 308, 318-19,
+  320-2, 324-5, 329, 335, 344, 351, 353-5, 361, 364, 372 _seq._
+Wilson, Mrs., letter to, 421
+Winter Quarter Bay, 60
+Wisting, Oscar, 383
+Wolf, dog, 108-9
+Wolseley Motor Company, 229
+Wood Bay, 49, 50, 141
+Wright, Charles S., physicist, 208, 224, 231, 236, 242, 270, 280,
+  283, 308, 314, 321, 329, 335, 340, 344, 354-5, 362
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+***** This file should be named 6721.txt or 6721.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/6/7/2/6721/
+
+Produced by Robert J. Hall
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including including checks, online payments and credit card
+donations.  To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/6721.zip b/6721.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2857b44
--- /dev/null
+++ b/6721.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9bad573
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #6721 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/6721)
diff --git a/old/vscot10.txt b/old/vscot10.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..eee67fd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/vscot10.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,12340 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Voyages of Captain Scott, by Charles Turley
+
+Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the
+copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing
+this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook.
+
+This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project
+Gutenberg file.  Please do not remove it.  Do not change or edit the
+header without written permission.
+
+Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the
+eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file.  Included is
+important information about your specific rights and restrictions in
+how the file may be used.  You can also find out about how to make a
+donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved.
+
+
+**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts**
+
+**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971**
+
+*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
+
+
+Title: The Voyages of Captain Scott
+
+Author: Charles Turley
+
+Release Date: October, 2004  [EBook #6721]
+[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule]
+[This file was first posted on January 24, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was produced by Robert J. Hall.
+
+
+
+
+THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT
+
+BY CHARLES TURLEY
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+  INTRODUCTION
+
+  THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+  Chapter
+       I. The 'Discovery'.
+      II. Southward Ho!
+     III. In Search of Winter Quarters.
+      IV. The Polar Winter.
+       V. The Start of the Southern Journey.
+      VI. The Return.
+     VII. A Second Winter.
+    VIII. The Western Journey.
+      IX. The Return from the West.
+       X. Release.
+
+  THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+  Chapter
+          Preface to 'Scott's Last Expedition'.
+          Biographical Note.
+          British Antarctic Expedition, 1910.
+       I. Through Stormy Seas.
+      II. Depôt Laying to One Ton Camp.
+     III. Perils.
+      IV. A Happy Family.
+       V. Winter.
+      VI. Good-bye to Cape Evans.
+     VII. The Southern Journey Begins.
+    VIII. On the Beardmore Glacier.
+      IX. The South Pole.
+       X. On the Homeward Journey.
+      XI. The Last March.
+          Search Party Discovers the Tent.
+          In Memoriam.
+          Farewell Letters.
+          Message to the Public.
+          Index.
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+  PHOTOGRAVURE PLATE
+
+    Portrait of Captain Robert F. Scott
+      From a photograph by J. Russell & Son, Southsea.
+
+  COLORED PLATES
+
+    From Water-Color Drawings by Dr. Edward A. Wilson.
+
+    Sledding.
+    Mount Erebus.
+    Lunar Corona.
+    'Birdie' Bowers reading the thermometer on the ramp.
+
+  DOUBLE PAGE PLATE
+
+    Panorama at Cape Evans.
+    Berg in South Bay.
+
+  FULL PAGE PLATES
+
+    Robert F. Scott at the age of thirteen as a naval cadet.
+    The 'Discovery'.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.
+    Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.
+    Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.
+    The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.
+    Pony Camp on the barrier.
+    Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.
+    Pitching the double tent on the summit.
+    Adélie Penguin on nest.
+    Emperor Penguins on sea-ice.
+    Dog party starting from Hut Point.
+    Dog lines.
+    Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.
+    Looking south from Lower Glacier Depôt,
+    Man hauling camp, 87th parallel.
+    The party at the South Pole.
+    'The Last Rest'.
+
+    Facsimile of the last words of Captain Scott's Journal.
+
+    Track chart of main southern journey.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+BY SIR J. M. BARRIE, BART.
+
+On the night of my original meeting with Scott he was but lately
+home from his first adventure into the Antarctic and my chief
+recollection of the occasion is that having found the entrancing
+man I was unable to leave him. In vain he escorted me through the
+streets of London to my home, for when he had said good-night I
+then escorted him to his, and so it went on I know not for how long
+through the small hours. Our talk was largely a comparison of the
+life of action (which he pooh-poohed) with the loathsome life of those
+who sit at home (which I scorned); but I also remember that he
+assured me he was of Scots extraction. As the subject never seems
+to have been resumed between us, I afterwards wondered whether I
+had drawn this from him with a promise that, if his reply was
+satisfactory, I would let him go to bed. However, the family
+traditions (they are nothing more) do bring him from across the
+border. According to them his great-great-grandfather was the Scott
+of Brownhead whose estates were sequestered after the '45. His
+dwelling was razed to the ground and he fled with his wife, to
+whom after some grim privations a son was born in a fisherman's
+hut on September 14, 1745. This son eventually settled in Devon,
+where he prospered, for it was in the beautiful house of Oatlands
+that he died. He had four sons, all in the Royal Navy, of whom the
+eldest had as youngest child John Edward Scott, father of the
+Captain Scott who was born at Oatlands on June 6, 1868. About the
+same date, or perhaps a little earlier, it was decided that the
+boy should go into the Navy like so many of his for-bears.
+
+I have been asked to write a few pages about those early days
+of Scott at Oatlands, so that the boys who read this book may
+have some slight acquaintance with the boy who became Captain
+Scott; and they may be relieved to learn (as it holds out some
+chance for themselves) that the man who did so many heroic things
+does not make his first appearance as a hero. He enters history
+aged six, blue-eyed, long-haired, inexpressibly slight and in
+velveteen, being held out at arm's length by a servant and dripping
+horribly, like a half-drowned kitten. This is the earliest
+recollection of him of a sister, who was too young to join in
+a children's party on that fatal day. But Con, as he was always
+called, had intimated to her that from a window she would be
+able to see him taking a noble lead in the festivities in the
+garden, and she looked; and that is what she saw. He had been
+showing his guests how superbly he could jump the leat, and had
+fallen into it.
+
+Leat is a Devonshire term for a running stream, and a branch
+of the leat ran through the Oatlands garden while there was another
+branch, more venturesome, at the bottom of the fields. These
+were the waters first ploughed by Scott, and he invented many
+ways of being in them accidentally, it being forbidden to enter
+them of intent. Thus he taught his sisters and brother a new
+version of the oldest probably of all pastimes, the game of 'Touch.'
+You had to touch 'across the leat,' and, with a little good fortune,
+one of you went in. Once you were wet, it did not so much matter
+though you got wetter.
+
+An easy way of getting to the leat at the foot of the fields
+was to walk there, but by the time he was eight Scott scorned
+the easy ways. He invented parents who sternly forbade all approach
+to this dangerous waterway; he turned them into enemies of his
+country and of himself (he was now an admiral), and led parties
+of gallant tars to the stream by ways hitherto unthought of. At
+foot of the avenue was an oak tree which hung over the road, and
+thus by dropping from this tree you got into open country. The
+tree was (at this time) of an enormous size, with sufficient room
+to conceal a navy, and the navy consisted mainly of the sisters
+and the young brother. All had to be ready at any moment to leap
+from the tree and join issue with the enemy on the leat. In the
+fields there was also a mighty ocean, called by dull grown-ups
+'the pond,' and here Scott's battleship lay moored. It seems for
+some time to have been an English vessel, but by and by he was
+impelled, as all boys are, to blow something up, and he could
+think of nothing more splendid for his purpose than the battleship.
+Thus did it become promptly a ship of the enemy doing serious
+damage to the trade of those parts, and the valiant Con took to
+walking about with lips pursed, brows frowning as he cogitated
+how to remove the Terror of Devon. You may picture the sisters
+and brother trotting by his side and looking anxiously, into
+his set face. At last he decided to blow the accursed thing up
+with gunpowder. His crew cheered, and then waited to be sent to
+the local shop for a pennyworth of gunpowder. But Con made his
+own gunpowder, none of the faithful were ever told how, and on
+a great day the train was laid. Con applied the match and ordered
+all to stand back. A deafening explosion was expected, but a mere
+puff of flame was all that came; the Terror of Devon, which to
+the unimaginative was only a painted plank, still rode the waters.
+With many boys this would be the end of the story, but not with
+Con. He again retired to the making of gunpowder, and did not
+desist from his endeavors until he had blown that plank sky-high.
+
+His first knife is a great event in the life of a boy: it is
+probably the first memory of many of them, and they are nearly
+always given it on condition that they keep it shut. So it was
+with Con, and a few minutes after he had sworn that he would
+not open it he was begging for permission to use it on a tempting
+sapling. 'Very well,' his father said grimly, 'but remember, if
+you hurt yourself, don't expect any sympathy from me.' The knife
+was opened, and to cut himself rather badly proved as easy as
+falling into the leat. The father, however, had not noticed, and
+the boy put his bleeding hand into his pocket and walked on
+unconcernedly. He was really considerably damaged; and this is
+a good story of a child of seven who all his life suffered extreme
+nausea from the sight of blood; even in the Discovery days, to
+get accustomed to 'seeing red,' he had to force himself to watch
+Dr. Wilson skinning his specimens.
+
+When he was about eight Con passed out of the hands of a governess,
+and became a school-boy, first at a day school in Stoke Damerel
+and later at Stubbington House, Fareham. He rode grandly between
+Oatlands and Stoke Damerel on his pony, Beppo, which bucked in
+vain when he was on it, but had an ingratiating way of depositing
+other riders on the road. From what one knows of him later this
+is a characteristic story. One day he dismounted to look over a
+gate at a view which impressed him (not very boyish this), and
+when he recovered from a brown study there was no Beppo to be
+seen. He walked the seven miles home, but what was characteristic
+was that he called at police-stations on the way to give practical
+details of his loss and a description of the pony. Few children
+would have thought of this, but Scott was naturally a strange
+mixture of the dreamy and the practical, and never more practical
+than immediately after he had been dreamy. He forgot place and
+time altogether when thus abstracted. I remember the first time
+he dined with me, when a number of well-known men had come to
+meet him, he arrived some two hours late. He had dressed to come
+out, then fallen into one of his reveries, forgotten all about
+the engagement, dined by himself and gone early to bed. Just as
+he was falling asleep he remembered where he should be, arose
+hastily and joined us as speedily as possible. It was equally
+characteristic of him to say of the other guests that it was
+pleasant to a sailor to meet so many interesting people. When
+I said that to them the sailor was by far the most interesting
+person in the room he shouted with mirth. It always amused Scott
+to find that anyone thought him a person of importance.
+
+[Illustration: Robert F. Scott at the age of 13 as a naval cadet.]
+
+I suppose everyone takes for granted that in his childhood, as
+later when he made his great marches, Scott was muscular and strongly
+built. This was so far from being the case that there were many
+anxious consultations over him, and the local doctor said he could
+not become a sailor as he could never hope to obtain the necessary
+number of inches round the chest. He was delicate and inclined
+to be pigeon-breasted. Judging from the portrait of him here
+printed, in his first uniform as a naval cadet, all this had
+gone by the time he was thirteen, but unfortunately there are no
+letters of this period extant and thus little can be said of his
+years on the Britannia where 'you never felt hot in your bunk
+because you could always twist, and sleep with your feet out at
+port hole.' He became a cadet captain, a post none can reach who
+is not thought well of by the other boys as well as by their
+instructors, but none of them foresaw that he was likely to become
+anybody in particular. He was still 'Old Mooney,' as his father
+had dubbed him, owing to his dreamy mind; it was an effort to him
+to work hard, he cast a wistful eye on 'slackers,' he was not a
+good loser, he was untidy to the point of slovenliness, and he
+had a fierce temper. All this I think has been proved to me up to
+the hilt, and as I am very sure that the boy of fifteen or so
+cannot be very different from the man he grows into it leaves
+me puzzled. The Scott I knew, or thought I knew, was physically
+as hard as nails and flung himself into work or play with a
+vehemence I cannot remember ever to have seen equaled. I have
+fished with him, played cricket and football with him, and other
+games, those of his own invention being of a particularly arduous
+kind, for they always had a moment when the other players were
+privileged to fling a hard ball at your undefended head. 'Slackness,'
+was the last quality you would think of when you saw him bearing
+down on you with that ball, and it was the last he asked of you
+if you were bearing down on him. He was equally strenuous of
+work; indeed I have no clearer recollection of him than his way
+of running from play to work or work to play, so that there should
+be the least possible time between. It is the 'time between'
+that is the 'slacker's' kingdom, and Scott lived less in it than
+anyone I can recall. Again, I found him the best of losers, with
+a shout of delight for every good stroke by an opponent: what
+is called an ideal sportsman. He was very neat and correct in
+his dress, quite a model for the youth who come after him, but
+that we take as a matter of course; it is 'good form' in the
+Navy. His temper I should have said was bullet-proof. I have
+never seen him begin to lose it for a second of time, and I have
+seen him in circumstances where the loss of it would have been
+excusable.
+
+However, 'the boy makes the man,' and Scott was none of those
+things I saw in him but something better. The faults of his youth
+must have lived on in him as in all of us, but he got to know
+they were there and he took an iron grip of them and never let
+go his hold. It was this self-control more than anything else
+that made the man of him of whom we have all become so proud.
+I get many proofs of this in correspondence dealing with his
+manhood days which are not strictly within the sphere of this
+introductory note. The horror of slackness was turned into a
+very passion for keeping himself 'fit.' Thus we find him at one
+time taking charge of a dog, a 'Big Dane,' so that he could race
+it all the way between work and home, a distance of three miles.
+Even when he was getting the Discover ready and doing daily the
+work of several men, he might have been seen running through
+the streets of London from Savile Row or the Admiralty to his
+home, not because there was no time for other method of progression,
+but because he must be fit, fit, fit. No more 'Old Mooney' for
+him; he kept an eye for ever on that gentleman, and became doggedly
+the most practical of men. And practical in the cheeriest of
+ways. In 1894 a disastrous change came over the fortunes of the
+family, the father's money being lost and then Scott was practical
+indeed. A letter he wrote I at this time to his mother, tenderly
+taking everything and everybody on his shoulders, must be one
+of the best letters ever written by a son, and I hope it may
+be some day published. His mother was the great person of his
+early life, more to him even than his brother or his father,
+whom circumstances had deprived of the glory of following the
+sailor's profession and whose ambitions were all bound up in
+this son, determined that Con should do the big things he had
+not done himself. For the rest of his life Con became the head
+of the family, devoting his time and his means to them, not in
+an it-must-be-done manner, but with joy and even gaiety. He never
+seems to have shown a gayer front than when the troubles fell,
+and at a farm to which they retired for a time he became famous
+as a provider of concerts. Not only must there be no 'Old Mooney'
+in him, but it must be driven out of everyone. His concerts,
+in which he took a leading part, became celebrated in the district,
+deputations called to beg for another, and once in these words,
+'Wull 'ee gie we a concert over our way when the comic young
+gentleman be here along?'
+
+Some servants having had to go at this period, Scott conceived
+the idea that he must even help domestically in the house, and
+took his own bedroom under his charge with results that were
+satisfactory to the casual eye, though not to the eyes of his
+sisters. It was about this time that he slew the demon of untidiness
+so far as his own dress was concerned and doggedly became a model
+for still younger officers. Not that his dress was fine. While
+there were others to help he would not spend his small means
+on himself, and he would arrive home in frayed garments that
+he had grown out of and in very tarnished lace. But neat as a
+pin. In the days when he returned from his first voyage in the
+Antarctic and all England was talking of him, one of his most
+novel adventures was at last to go to a first-class tailor and
+be provided with a first-class suit. He was as elated by the
+possession of this as a child. When going about the country
+lecturing in those days he traveled third class, though he was
+sometimes met at the station by mayors and corporations and red
+carpets.
+
+The hot tempers of his youth must still have lain hidden, but
+by now the control was complete. Even in the naval cadet days
+of which unfortunately there is so little to tell, his old friends
+who remember the tempers remember also the sunny smile that
+dissipated them. When I knew him the sunny smile was there
+frequently, and was indeed his greatest personal adornment, but
+the tempers never reached the surface. He had become master of
+his fate and captain of his soul.
+
+In 1886 Scott became a middy on the Boadicea, and later on various
+ships, one of them the Rover, of which Admiral Fisher was at
+that time commander. The Admiral has a recollection of a little
+black pig having been found under his bunk one night. He cannot
+swear that Scott was the leading culprit, but Scott was certainly
+one of several who had to finish the night on deck as a punishment.
+In 1888 Scott passed, his examinations for sub-lieutenant, with
+four first-class honors and one second, and so left his boyhood
+behind. I cannot refrain however from adding as a conclusion
+to these notes a letter from Sir Courtauld Thomson that gives
+a very attractive glimpse of him in this same year:
+
+'In the late winter a quarter of a century ago I had to find
+my way from San Francisco to Alaska. The railway was snowed up
+and the only transport available at the moment was an ill-found
+tramp steamer. My fellow passengers were mostly Californians
+hurrying off to a new mining camp and, with the crew, looked
+a very unpleasant lot of ruffians. Three singularly unprepossessing
+Frisco toughs joined me in my cabin, which was none too large
+for a single person. I was then told that yet another had somehow
+to be wedged in. While I was wondering if he could be a more
+ill-favored or dirtier specimen of humanity than the others the
+last comer suddenly appeared--the jolliest and breeziest English
+naval Second Lieutenant. It was Con Scott. I had never seen him
+before, but we at once became friends and remained so till the
+end. He was going up to join his ship which, I think, was the
+Amphion, at Esquimault, B. C.
+
+'As soon as we got outside the Golden Gates we ran into a full
+gale which lasted all the way to Victoria, B. C. The ship was
+so overcrowded that a large number of women and children were
+allowed to sleep on the floor of the only saloon there was on
+condition that they got up early, so that the rest of the
+passengers could come in for breakfast and the other meals.
+
+'I need scarcely say that owing to the heavy weather hardly a
+woman was able to get up, and the saloon was soon in an
+indescribable condition. Practically no attempt was made to serve
+meals and the few so-called stewards were themselves mostly out
+of action from drink or sea-sickness.
+
+'Nearly all the male passengers who were able to be about spent
+their time drinking and quarrelling. The deck cargo and some
+of our top hamper were washed away and the cabins got their share
+of the waves that were washing the deck.
+
+'Then it was I first knew that Con Scott was no ordinary human
+being. Though at that time still only a boy he practically took
+command of the passengers and was at once accepted by them as
+their Boss during the rest of the trip. With a small body of
+volunteers he led an attack on the saloon--dressed the mothers,
+washed the children, fed the babies, swabbed down the floors
+and nursed the sick, and performed every imaginable service for
+all hands. On deck he settled the quarrels and established order
+either by his personality, or, if necessary, by his fists.
+Practically by day and night he worked for the common good, never
+sparing himself, and with his infectious smile gradually made
+us all feel the whole thing was jolly good fun.
+
+'I daresay there are still some of the passengers like myself
+who, after a quarter of a century, have imprinted on their minds
+the vision of this fair-haired English sailor boy with the laughing
+blue eyes who at that early age knew how to sacrifice himself
+for the welfare and happiness of others.'
+
+
+
+
+THE VOYAGE OF THE 'DISCOVERY'
+
+[Illustration: The 'Discovery'. Reproduced from a drawing by
+Dr. E. A. Wilson.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE DISCOVERY
+
+  Do ye, by star-eyed Science led, explore
+  Each lonely ocean, each untrodden shore.
+
+In June, 1899, Robert Falcon Scott was spending his short leave
+in London, and happened to meet Sir Clements Markham in the
+Buckingham Palace Road. On that afternoon he heard for the first
+time of a prospective Antarctic expedition, and on the following
+day he called upon Sir Clements and volunteered to command it. Of
+this eventful visit Sir Clements wrote: 'On June 5, 1899, there
+was a remarkable coincidence. Scott was then torpedo lieutenant
+of the Majestic. I was just sitting down to write to my old friend
+Captain Egerton [Footnote: Now Admiral Sir George Egerton, K.C.B.]
+about him, when he was announced. He came to volunteer to command
+the expedition. I believed him to be the best man for so great
+a trust, either in the navy or out of it. Captain Egerton's reply
+and Scott's testimonials and certificates most fully confirmed
+a foregone conclusion.'
+
+The tale, however, of the friendship between Sir Clements and
+Scott began in 1887, when the former was the guest of his cousin,
+the Commodore of the Training Squadron, and made the acquaintance
+of every midshipman in the four ships that comprised it. During
+the years that followed, it is enough to say that Scott more
+than justified the hopes of those who had marked him down as
+a midshipman of exceptional promise. Through those years Sir
+Clements had been both friendly and observant, until by a happy
+stroke of fortune the time came when he was as anxious for this
+Antarctic expedition to be led by Scott as Scott was to lead
+it. So when, on June 30, 1900, Scott was promoted to the rank
+of Commander, and shortly afterwards was free to undertake the
+work that was waiting for him, one great anxiety was removed
+from the shoulders of the man who had not only proposed the
+expedition, but had also resolved that nothing should prevent
+it from going.
+
+Great difficulties and troubles had, however, to be encountered
+before the Discovery could start upon her voyage. First and foremost
+was the question of money, but owing to indefatigable efforts
+the financial horizon grew clearer in the early months of 1899.
+Later on in the same year Mr. Balfour expressed his sympathy with
+the objects of the undertaking, and it was entirely due to him that
+the Government eventually agreed to contribute £45,000, provided
+that a similar sum could be raised by private subscriptions.
+
+In March, 1900, the keel of the new vessel, that the special
+Ship Committee had decided to build for the expedition, was laid
+in the yard of the Dundee Shipbuilding Company. A definite beginning,
+at any rate, had been made; but very soon after Scott had taken
+up his duties he found that unless he could obtain some control
+over the various committees and subcommittees of the expedition,
+the only day to fix for the sailing of the ship was Doomsday.
+A visit to Norway, where he received many practical suggestions
+from Dr. Nansen, was followed by a journey to Berlin, and there
+he discovered that the German expedition, which was to sail from
+Europe at the same time as his own, was already in an advanced
+state of preparation. Considerably alarmed, he hurried back to
+England and found, as he had expected, that all the arrangements,
+which were in full swing in Germany, were almost at a standstill
+in England. The construction of the ship was the only work that
+was progressing, and even in this there were many interruptions
+from the want of some one to give immediate decisions on points
+of detail.
+
+A remedy for this state of chaos had to be discovered, and on
+November 4, 1900, the Joint Committee of the Royal Society and
+the Royal Geographical Society passed a resolution, which left
+Scott practically with a free hand to push on the work in every
+department, under a given estimate of expenditure in each. To
+safeguard the interests of the two Societies the resolution provided
+that this expenditure should be supervised by a Finance Committee,
+and to this Committee unqualified gratitude was due. Difficulties
+were still to crop up, and as there were many scientific interests
+to be served, differences of opinion on points of detail naturally
+arose, but as far as the Finance Committee was concerned, it
+is mere justice to record that no sooner was it formed than its
+members began to work ungrudgingly to promote the success of
+the undertaking.
+
+In the meantime Scott's first task was to collect, as far as
+possible, the various members of the expedition. Before he had
+left the Majestic he had written, 'I cannot gather what is the
+intention as regards the crew; is it hoped to be able to embody
+them from the R.N.? I sincerely trust so.' In fact he had set
+his heart on obtaining a naval crew, partly because he thought
+that their sense of discipline would be invaluable, but also
+because he doubted his ability to deal with any other class of
+men.
+
+The Admiralty, however, was reluctant to grant a concession that
+Scott considered so necessary, and this reluctance arose not
+from any coldness towards the enterprise, but from questions
+of principle and precedent. At first the Admiralty assistance
+in this respect was limited to two officers, Scott himself and
+Royds, then the limit was extended to include Skelton the engineer,
+a carpenter and a boatswain, and thus at least a small naval
+nucleus was obtained. But it was not until the spring of 1901
+that the Admiralty, thanks to Sir Anthony Hoskins and Sir Archibald
+Douglas, gave in altogether, and as the selection of the most
+fitting volunteers had not yet been made, the chosen men did
+not join until the expedition was almost on the point of sailing.
+
+For many reasons Scott was obliged to make his own headquarters
+in London, and the room that had been placed at his disposal
+in Burlington House soon became a museum of curiosities. Sledges,
+ski, fur clothing and boots were crowded into every corner, while
+tables and shelves were littered with correspondence and samples
+of tinned foods. And in the midst of this medley he worked steadily
+on, sometimes elated by the hope that all was going well, sometimes
+depressed by the thought that the expedition could not possibly
+be ready to start at the required date.
+
+During these busy months of preparation he had the satisfaction
+of knowing that the first lieutenant, the chief engineer and
+the carpenter were in Dundee, and able to look into the numerous
+small difficulties that arose in connection with the building
+of the ship. Other important posts in the expedition had also
+been filled up, and expeditionary work was being carried on in
+many places. Some men were working on their especial subjects
+in the British Museum, others were preparing themselves at the
+Physical Laboratory at Kew, and others, again, were traveling
+in various directions both at home and abroad. Of all these affairs
+the central office was obliged to take notice, and so for its
+occupants idle moments were few and very far between. Nansen
+said once that the hardest work of a Polar voyage came in its
+preparation, and during the years 1900-1, Scott found ample cause
+to agree with him. But in spite of conflicting interests, which
+at times threatened to wreck the well-being of the expedition,
+work, having been properly organized, went steadily forward;
+until on March 21, 1901, the new vessel was launched at Dundee
+and named the 'Discovery' by Lady Markham.
+
+In the choice of a name it was generally agreed that the best
+plan was to revive some time-honored title, and that few names
+were more distinguished than 'Discovery.' She was the sixth of
+that name, and inherited a long record of honorable and fortunate
+service.
+
+The Discovery had been nothing more than a skeleton when it was
+decided that she should be loaded with her freight in London;
+consequently, after she had undergone her trials, she was brought
+round from Dundee, and on June 3, 1901, was berthed in the East
+India Docks. There, during the following weeks, all the stores
+were gathered together, and there the vessel, which was destined
+to be the home of the expedition for more than three years, was
+laden.
+
+Speaking at the Geographical Congress at Berlin in 1899, Nansen
+strongly recommended a vessel of the Fram type with fuller lines
+for South Polar work, but the special Ship Committee, appointed
+to consider the question of a vessel for this expedition, had
+very sound reasons for not following his advice. Nansen's celebrated
+Fram was built for the specific object of remaining safely in
+the North Polar pack, in spite of the terrible pressures which
+were to be expected in such a vast extent of ice. This object
+was achieved in the simplest manner by inclining the sides of
+the vessel until her shape resembled a saucer, and lateral pressure
+merely tended to raise her above the surface. Simple as this
+design was, it fulfilled so well the requirements of the situation
+that its conception was without doubt a stroke of genius. What,
+however, has been generally forgotten is that the safety of the
+Fram was secured at the expense of her sea-worthiness and powers
+of ice-penetration.
+
+Since the Fram was built there have been two distinct types of
+Polar vessels, the one founded on the idea of passive security
+in the ice, the other the old English whaler type designed to
+sail the high seas and push her way through the looser ice-packs.
+And a brief consideration of southern conditions will show which
+of these types is more serviceable for Antarctic exploration,
+because it is obvious that the exploring ship must first of all
+be prepared to navigate the most stormy seas in the world, and
+then be ready to force her way through the ice-floes to the
+mysteries beyond.
+
+By the general consent of those who witnessed her performances,
+the old Discovery (the fifth of her name) of 1875 was the best
+ship that had ever been employed on Arctic service, and the Ship
+Committee eventually decided that the new vessel should be built
+on more or less the same lines. The new Discovery had the honor
+to be the first vessel ever built for scientific exploration,
+and the decision to adopt well-tried English lines for her was
+more than justified by her excellent qualities.
+
+The greatest strength lay in her bows, and when ice-floes had
+to be rammed the knowledge that the keel at the fore-end of the
+ship gradually grew thicker, until it rose in the enormous mass
+of solid wood which constituted the stem, was most comforting.
+No single tree could provide the wood for such a stem, but the
+several trees used were cunningly scarfed to provide the equivalent
+of a solid block. In further preparation for the battle with
+ice-floes, the stem itself and the bow for three or four feet
+on either side were protected with numerous steel plates, so
+that when the ship returned to civilization not a scratch remained
+to show the hard knocks received by the bow.
+
+The shape of the stem was also a very important consideration.
+In the outline drawing of the Discovery will be seen how largely
+the stem overhangs, and this was carried to a greater extent than
+in any former Polar vessel. The object with which this was fitted
+was often fulfilled during the voyage. Many a time on charging
+a large ice-floe the stem of the ship glided upwards until the
+bows were raised two or three feet, then the weight of the ship
+acting downwards would crack the floe beneath, the bow would
+drop, and gradually the ship would forge ahead to tussle against
+the next obstruction. Nothing but a wooden structure has the
+elasticity and strength to thrust its way without injury through
+the thick Polar ice.
+
+In Dundee the building of the Discovery aroused the keenest
+interest, and the peculiar shape of her overhanging stern, an
+entirely new feature in this class of vessel, gave rise to the
+strongest criticism. All sorts of misfortunes were predicted,
+but events proved that this overhanging rounded form of stem
+was infinitely superior for ice-work to the old form of stem,
+because it gave better protection to the rudder, rudder post
+and screw, and was more satisfactory in heavy seas.
+
+Both in the building and in the subsequent work of the Discovery
+the deck-house, marked on the drawing 'Magnetic Observatory,'
+was an important place. For the best of reasons it was important
+that the magnetic observations taken on the expedition should
+be as accurate as possible, and it will be readily understood
+that magnetic observations cannot be taken in a place closely
+surrounded by iron. The ardor of the magnetic experts on the
+Ship Committee had led them at first to ask that there should
+be neither iron nor steel in the vessel, but after it had been
+pointed out that this could scarcely be, a compromise was arrived
+at and it was agreed that no magnetic materials should be employed
+within thirty feet of the observatory. This decision caused immense
+trouble and expense, but in the end it was justified, for the
+magnetic observations taken on board throughout the voyage required
+very little correction. And if the demands of the magnetic experts
+were a little exacting, some amusement was also derived from
+them. At one time those who lived within the circle were threatened
+with the necessity of shaving with brass razors; and when the
+ship was on her way home from New Zealand a parrot fell into
+dire disgrace, not because it was too talkative, but because
+it had been hanging on the mess-deck during a whole set of
+observations, and the wires of its cage were made of iron.
+
+[Illustration: Outline drawings of 'Discovery' and 'Fram'.]
+
+The Discovery was, in Scott's opinion, the finest vessel ever
+built for exploring purposes, and he was as enthusiastic about
+his officers and men as he was about the ship herself.
+
+The senior of the ten officers who messed with Scott in the small
+wardroom of the Discovery was Lieutenant A. B. Armitage, R.N.R.
+He brought with him not only an excellent practical seamanship
+training in sailing ships, but also valuable Polar experience;
+for the P. and O. Company, in which he held a position, had in
+1894 granted him leave of absence to join the Jackson-Harmsworth
+Expedition to Franz-Josef Land.
+
+Reginald Koettlitz, the senior doctor, had also seen Arctic service
+in the Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition. As his medical duties were
+expected to be light, he combined them with those of official
+botanist.
+
+The task of Thomas V. Hodgson, biologist, was to collect by hook
+or crook all the strange beasts that inhabit the Polar seas,
+and no greater enthusiast for his work could have been chosen.
+
+Charles W. R. Royds was the first lieutenant, and had all to do
+with the work of the men and the internal economy of the ship in
+the way that is customary with a first lieutenant of a man-of-war.
+Throughout the voyage he acted as meteorologist, and in face
+of great difficulties he secured the most valuable records.
+
+Michael Barne, the second naval lieutenant, had served with Scott
+in the Majestic. 'I had thought him,' Scott wrote after the
+expedition had returned, 'as he proved to be, especially fitted
+for a voyage where there were many elements of dangers and
+difficulty.'
+
+The original idea in appointing two doctors to the Discovery was
+that one of them should be available for a detached landing-party.
+This idea was practically abandoned, but the expedition had reason
+to be thankful that it ever existed, for the second doctor appointed
+was Edward A. Wilson. In view of the glorious friendship which
+arose between them, and which in the end was destined to make
+history, it is of inestimable value to be able to quote what is
+believed to be Scott's first written opinion of Wilson. In a letter
+headed 'At sea, Sept. 27,' he said: 'I now come to the man who
+will do great things some day--Wilson. He has quite the keenest
+intellect on board and a marvelous capacity for work. You know
+his artistic talent, but would be surprised at the speed at which
+he paints, and the indefatigable manner in which he is always
+at it. He has fallen at once into ship-life, helps with any job
+that may be in hand... in fact is an excellent fellow all round.
+
+Wilson, in addition to his medical duties, was also vertebrate
+zoologist and artist to the expedition. In the first capacity
+he dealt scientifically with the birds and seals, and in the
+second he produced a very large number of excellent pictures
+and sketches of the wild scenes among which he was living.
+
+One of Scott's earliest acts on behalf of the expedition was to
+apply for the services of Reginald W. Skelton as chief engineer.
+At the time Skelton was senior engineer of the Majestic, and
+his appointment to the Discovery was most fortunate in every
+way. From first to last there was no serious difficulty with
+the machinery or with anything connected with it.
+
+The geologist, Hartley T. Ferrar, only joined the expedition
+a short time before the Discovery sailed, and the physicist,
+Louis Bernacchi, did not join until the ship reached New Zealand.
+
+In addition there were two officers who did not serve throughout
+the whole term. Owing to ill-health Ernest H. Shackleton was
+obliged to return from the Antarctic in 1903, and his place was
+taken by George F. A. Mulock, who was a sub-lieutenant in the
+Navy when he joined.
+
+Apart from Koettlitz, who was forty, and Hodgson, who was
+thirty-seven, the average age of the remaining members of the
+wardroom mess was just over twenty-four years, and at that time
+Scott had little doubt as to the value of youth for Polar service.
+Very naturally, however, this opinion was less pronounced as
+the years went by, and on August 6, 1911, he wrote during his
+last expedition: 'We (Wilson and I) both conclude that it is
+the younger people who have the worst time... Wilson (39) says
+he never felt cold less than he does now; I suppose that between
+30 and 40 is the best all-round age. Bower is a wonder of course.
+He is 29. When past the forties it is encouraging to remember
+that Peary was 52!'
+
+The fact that these officers lived in complete harmony for three
+years was proof enough that they were well and wisely chosen,
+and Scott was equally happy in his selection of warrant officers,
+petty officers and men, who brought with them the sense of naval
+discipline that is very necessary for such conditions as exist
+in Polar service. The Discovery, it must be remembered, was not
+in Government employment, and so had no more stringent regulations
+to enforce discipline than those contained in the Merchant Shipping
+Act. But everyone on board lived exactly as though the ship was
+under the Naval Discipline Act; and as the men must have known
+that this state of affairs was a fiction, they deserved as much
+credit as the officers, if not more, for continuing rigorously
+to observe it.
+
+Something remains to be said about the Discovery's prospective
+course, and of the instructions given to Captain Scott.
+
+For purposes of reference Sir Clements Markham had suggested
+that the Antarctic area should be divided into four quadrants,
+to be named respectively the Victoria, the Ross, the Weddell, and
+the Enderby, and when he also proposed that the Ross quadrant
+should be the one chosen for this expedition, his proposal was
+received with such unanimous approval that long before the Discovery
+was built her prospective course had been finally decided. In
+fact every branch of science saw a greater chance of success in
+the Ross quadrant than in any other region. Concerning instructions
+on such a voyage as the Discovery's it may be thought that, when
+once the direction is settled, the fewer there are the better.
+Provided, however, that they leave the greatest possible freedom
+to the commander, they may be very useful in giving him a general
+view of the situation, and in stating the order in which the
+various objects are held. If scientific interests clash, it is
+clearly to the commander's advantage to know in what light these
+interests are regarded by those responsible for the enterprise.
+Of such a nature were the instructions Scott received before
+sailing for the South.
+
+During the time of preparation many busy men gave most valuable
+assistance to the expedition; but even with all this kindly aid
+it is doubtful if the Discovery would ever have started had it
+not been that among these helpers was one who, from the first,
+had given his whole and undivided attention to the work in hand.
+After all is said and done Sir Clements Markham conceived the
+idea of this Antarctic Expedition, and it was his masterful
+personality which swept aside all obstacles and obstructions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+SOUTHWARD HO!
+
+  They saw the cables loosened, they saw the gangways cleared,
+  They heard the women weeping, they heard the men who cheered.
+  Far off-far off the tumult faded and died away.
+  And all alone the sea wind came singing up the Bay.
+  --NEWBOLT.
+
+On July 31, 1901, the Discovery left the London Docks, and slowly
+wended her way down the Thames; and at Cowes, on August 5, she
+was honored by a visit from King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra.
+This visit must be ever memorable for the interest their Majesties
+showed in the minutest details of equipment; but at the same time
+it was natural for the members of the expedition to be obsessed
+by the fear that they might start with a flourish of trumpets
+and return with failure. The grim possibilities of the voyage
+were also not to be forgotten--a voyage to the Antarctic, the
+very map of which had remained practically unaltered from 1843-93.
+
+With no previous Polar experience to help him, Scott was following
+on the track of great Polar explorers, notably of James Cook and
+James Ross, of whom it has been well said that the one defined the
+Antarctic region and the other discovered it. Can it be wondered
+therefore that his great anxieties were to be off and doing, to
+justify the existence of the expedition at the earliest possible
+moment, and to obey the instructions which had been given him?
+
+Before the Discovery had crossed the Bay of Biscay it was evident
+that she did not possess a turn of speed under any conditions,
+and that there must be none but absolutely necessary delays on
+the voyage, if she was to arrive in the Antarctic in time to
+take full advantage of the southern summer of 1901-2 for the
+first exploration in the ice. This proved a serious drawback,
+as it had been confidently expected that there would be ample
+time to make trial of various devices for sounding and dredging
+in the deep sea, while still in a temperate climate. The fact
+that no trials could be made on the outward voyage was severely
+felt when the Antarctic was reached.
+
+On October 2 the Discovery arrived within 150 miles of the Cape,
+and on the 5th was moored off the naval station at Simon's Bay.
+The main object of staying at the Cape was to obtain comparisons
+with the magnetic instruments, but Scott wrote: 'It is much to
+be deplored that no permanent Magnetic Station now exists at
+the Cape. The fact increased the number and difficulty of our
+own observations, and it was quite impossible to spare the time
+for such repetitions and verifications as, under the circumstances,
+could alone have placed them beyond dispute.' Armitage and Barne,
+however, worked like Trojans in taking observations, and received
+so much valuable assistance 'that they were able to accomplish
+a maximum amount of work in the limited time at their disposal.'
+In every way, indeed, the kindliest sympathy was shown at the
+Cape.
+
+The magnetic work was completed on October 12, and two days later
+the Discovery once more put out to sea; and as time went on those
+on board became more and more satisfied with her seaworthy qualities.
+Towards the end of October there was a succession of heavy following
+gales, but she rose like a cork to the mountainous seas that
+followed in her wake, and, considering her size, she was wonderfully
+free of water on the upper deck. With a heavy following sea,
+however, she was, owing to her buoyancy, extremely lively, and
+rolls of more than 40º were often recorded. The peculiar shape
+of the stern, to which reference has been made, was now well
+tested. It gave additional buoyancy to the after-end, causing
+the ship to rise more quickly to the seas, but the same lifting
+effect was also directed to throwing the ship off her course,
+and consequently she was difficult to steer. The helmsmen gradually
+became more expert, but on one occasion when Scott and some other
+officers were on the bridge the ship swerved round, and was
+immediately swept by a monstrous sea which made a clean breach
+over her. Instinctively those on the bridge clutched the rails,
+and for several moments they were completely submerged while
+the spray dashed as high as the upper topsails.
+
+On November 12 the Discovery was in lat. 51 S., long. 131 E.,
+and had arrived in such an extremely interesting magnetic area
+that they steered to the south to explore it. This new course
+took them far out of the track of ships and towards the regions
+of ice, and they had scarcely arrived in those lonely waters
+when Scott was aroused from sleep by a loud knocking and a voice
+shouting, 'Ship's afire, sir.' Without waiting to give any details
+of this alarming news the informant fled, and when Scott appeared
+hastily on the scenes he found that the deck was very dark and
+obstructed by numerous half-clad people, all of whom were as
+ignorant as he was. Making his way forward he discovered that
+the fire had been under the forecastle, and had been easily
+extinguished when the hose was brought to bear on it. In these
+days steel ships and electric light tend to lessen the fear of
+fire, but in a wooden vessel the possible consequences are too
+serious not to make the danger very real and alarming. Henceforth
+the risk of fire was constantly in Scott's thoughts, but this
+was the first and last occasion on which an alarm was raised
+in the Discovery.
+
+On November 15 the 60th parallel was passed, and during the
+following morning small pieces of sea-ice, worn into fantastic
+shape by the action of the waves, appeared and were greeted with
+much excitement and enthusiasm. As the afternoon advanced signs
+of a heavier pack were seen ahead, and soon the loose floes were
+all about the ship, and she was pushing her way amongst them
+and receiving her baptism of ice.
+
+This was Scott's first experience of pack-ice, and he has recorded
+how deeply he was impressed by the novelty of his surroundings.
+'The wind had died away; what light remained was reflected in
+a ghostly glimmer from the white surface of the pack; now and
+again a white snow petrel flitted through the gloom, the grinding
+of the floes against the ship's side was mingled with the more
+subdued hush of their rise and fall on the long swell, and for
+the first time we felt something of the solemnity of these great
+Southern solitudes.'
+
+The Discovery was now within 200 miles of Adélie Land, and with
+steam could easily have pushed on towards it. But delays had
+already been excessive, and they could not be added to if New
+Zealand was to be reached betimes. Reluctantly the ship's head
+was again turned towards the North, and soon passed into looser
+ice.
+
+One great feature of the tempestuous seas of these southern oceans
+is the quantity and variety of their bird life. Not only are
+these roaming, tireless birds to be seen in the distance, but
+in the majority of cases they are attracted by a ship and for
+hours gather close about her. The greater number are of the petrel
+tribe, and vary in size from the greater albatrosses, with their
+huge spread of wing and unwavering flight, to the small Wilson
+stormy petrel, which flits under the foaming crests of the waves.
+For centuries these birds have been the friends of sailors, and
+as Wilson was able to distinguish and name the various visitors
+to the Discovery, the interest of the voyage was very greatly
+increased.
+
+'At 11 A.M. on the 22nd,' Scott wrote in his official report
+of the Proceedings of the expedition, 'we sighted Macquarie Island,
+exactly at the time and in the direction expected, a satisfactory
+fact after so long an absence from land. As the island promised
+so much of interest to our naturalists I thought a delay of the
+few hours necessary for landing would be amply justified....
+A landing was effected without much difficulty, and two penguin
+rookeries which had been observed from the ship were explored
+with much interest. One proved to be inhabited by the beautifully
+marked King penguin, while the other contained a smaller
+gold-crested broad-billed species.... At 8 P.M. the party returned
+to the ship, and shortly after we weighed anchor and proceeded.
+Including those collected in the ice, we had no fewer than 50
+birds of various sorts to be skinned, and during the next few
+days several officers and men were busily engaged in this work
+under the superintendence of Dr. Wilson. The opportunity was
+taken of serving out the flesh of the penguins for food. I had
+anticipated considerable prejudice on the part of the men to
+this form of diet which it will so often be essential to enforce,
+and was agreeably surprised to find that they were by no means
+averse to it. Many pronounced it excellent, and all seemed to
+appreciate the necessity of cultivating a taste for it. I found
+no prejudice more difficult to conquer than my own.'
+
+Perhaps the most excited member of the party over this visit to
+Macquarie Island was Scott's Aberdeen terrier 'Scamp,' who was
+most comically divided between a desire to run away from the
+penguins, and a feeling that in such strange company it behooved
+him to be very courageous. This, however, was Scamp's first and
+last experience of penguins, for it was felt that he would be
+unable to live in the Antarctic, and so a comfortable home was
+found for him in New Zealand.
+
+Late on November 29 the Discovery arrived off Lyttelton Heads,
+and on the following day she was berthed alongside a jetty in
+the harbor. For both the private and the public kindness which
+was shown to the expedition in New Zealand, no expressions of
+gratitude can be too warm. On every possible occasion, and in
+every possible way, efficient and kindly assistance was given,
+and this was all the more valuable because a lot of work had
+to be done before the ship could sail from Lyttelton. The rigging
+had to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted; the magneticians
+had to undertake the comparison of their delicate instruments,
+and as this was the last occasion on which it could be done special
+attention was necessary; and a large quantity of stores had to
+be shipped, because some of those in the Discovery had been damaged
+by the leaky state of the ship. This leak had never been dangerous,
+but all the same it had entailed many weary hours of pumping,
+and had caused much waste of time and of provisions. Among the
+many skilled workmen, whose united labor had produced the solid
+structure of the Discovery's hull, had been one who had shirked
+his task, and although the ship was docked and most determined
+and persistent efforts were made to find the leak, it succeeded
+in avoiding detection.
+
+As the month of December advanced the scene on the ship was a
+very busy one, but at last the day for sailing from Lyttelton
+arrived, though not for the final departure from civilization,
+because a short visit was to be paid to Port Chalmers in the
+south to complete the stock of coal. On Saturday, December 21,
+the ship lay alongside the wharf ready for sea and very deeply
+laden. 'One could reflect that it would have been impossible
+to have got more into her, and that all we had got seemed necessary
+for the voyage, for the rest we could only trust that Providence
+would vouch-safe to us fine weather and an easy passage to the
+south.'
+
+New Zealand, to the last, was bent on showing its enthusiasm
+for the expedition. Two men-of-war steamed slowly out ahead of
+the Discovery, while no fewer than five steamers, crowded with
+passengers, and with bands playing and whistles hooting, also
+accompanied her, until the open sea was reached and the Discovery
+slowly steamed out between the war-ships that seemed to stand
+as sentinels to the bay. And then, before the cheers of thousands
+of friends were hardly out of the ears of those on board, a tragedy
+happened. Among the ship's company who had crowded into the rigging
+to wave their farewells was one young seaman, named Charles Bonner,
+who, more venturesome than the rest, had climbed above the
+crow's-nest to the top of the main-mast. There, seated on the
+truck, he had remained cheering, until in a moment of madness
+he raised himself into a standing position, and almost directly
+afterwards he fell and was instantaneously killed. On the Monday
+the ship arrived at Port Chalmers, and Bonner was buried with
+naval honors.
+
+By noon on the following day the Discovery was clear of the harbor
+bar, and was soon bowling along under steam and sail towards
+the south. The last view of civilization, the last sight of fields
+and flowers had come and gone on Christmas Eve, 1901, and Christmas
+Day found the ship in the open expanse of the Southern Ocean,
+though after such a recent parting from so many kind friends
+no one felt inclined for the customary festivities.
+
+In good sea trim the Discovery had little to fear from the worst
+gales, but at this time she was so heavily laden that had she
+encountered heavy seas the consequences must have been very
+unpleasant. Inevitably much of her large deck cargo must have
+been lost; the masses of wood on the superstructure would have
+been in great danger, while all the sheep and possibly many of
+the dogs would have been drowned. Fine weather, however, continued,
+and on January 3 Scott and his companions crossed the Antarctic
+Circle, little thinking how long a time would elapse before they
+would recross it. At length they had entered the Antarctic regions;
+before them lay the scene of their work, and all the trials of
+preparation, and the anxiety of delays, were forgotten in the
+fact that they had reached their goal in time to make use of
+the best part of the short open season in these icebound regions.
+
+Soon the pack was on all sides of them, but as yet so loose that
+there were many large pools of open water. And then for several
+days the ship had really to fight her way, and Scott gave high
+praise to the way she behaved: 'The "Discovery" is a perfect
+gem in the pack. Her size and weight behind such a stem seem
+to give quite the best combination possible for such a purpose.
+We have certainly tried her thoroughly, for the pack which we
+have come through couldn't have been looked at by Ross even with
+a gale of wind behind him.'
+
+Necessarily progress became slow, but life abounds in the pack,
+and the birds that came to visit the ship were a source of perpetual
+interest. The pleasantest and most constant of these visitors
+was the small snow petrel, with its dainty snow-white plumage
+relieved only by black beak and feet, and black, beady eye. These
+little birds abound in the pack-ice, but the blue-grey southern
+fulmar and the Antarctic petrel were also to be seen, and that
+unwholesome scavenger, the giant petrel, frequently lumbered by;
+while the skua gull, most pugnacious of bullies, occasionally
+flapped past, on his way to make some less formidable bird disgorge
+his hard-earned dinner.
+
+The squeak of the penguin was constantly heard, at first afar
+and often long before the birds were seen. Curiosity drew them
+to the ship, and as she forced her way onward these little visitors
+would again and again leap into the water, and journey from floe
+to floe in their eagerness to discover what this strange apparition
+could be. Some of the sailors became very expert in imitating
+their calls, and could not only attract them from a long distance,
+but would visibly add to their astonishment when they approached.
+These were busy days for the penguins.
+
+In all parts of the pack seals are plentiful and spend long hours
+asleep on the floes. The commonest kind is the crab-eater or
+white seal, but the Ross seal is not rare, and there and there
+is found the sea-leopard, ranging wide and preying on the penguins
+and even on the young of its less powerful brethren. It is curious
+to observe that both seals and penguins regard themselves as
+safe when out of the water. In the sea they are running risks
+all the time, and in that element Nature has made them swift
+to prey or to avoid being preyed upon. But once on ice or land
+they have known no enemy, and cannot therefore conceive one.
+The seal merely raises its head when anyone approaches, and then
+with but little fear; whereas it is often difficult to drive
+the penguin into the water, for he is firmly convinced that the
+sea is the sole source of danger. Several seals were killed for
+food, and from the first seal-meat was found palatable, if not
+altogether the form of diet to recommend to an epicure. The great
+drawback to the seal is that there is no fat except blubber,
+and blubber has a very strong taste and most penetrating smell.
+At this time blubber was an abomination to everyone both in taste
+and smell, and if the smallest scrap happened to have been cooked
+with the meat, dinner was a wasted meal. Later on, however, this
+smell lost most of its terrors, while seal-steaks and seal-liver
+and kidneys were treated almost as luxuries.
+
+On the morning of January 8 a strong water sky could be seen,
+and soon afterwards the officer of the watch hailed from aloft
+the glad tidings of an open sea to the south. Presently the ship
+entered a belt where the ice lay in comparatively small pieces,
+and after pushing her way through this for over a mile, she reached
+the hard line where the ice abruptly ended, and to the south
+nothing but a clear sky could be seen. At 10.30 P.M. on the same
+evening the joy of being again in the open sea was intensified
+by a shout of 'Land in sight,' and all who were not on deck quickly
+gathered there to take their first look at the Antarctic Continent.
+The sun, near the southern horizon, still shone in a cloudless
+sky, and far away to the south-west the blue outline of the high
+mountain peaks of Victoria Land could be seen. The course was
+now directed for Robertson Bay, and after some difficulty, owing
+to the reappearance of loose streams of pack-ice, the ship was
+eventually steered into the open water within the bay.
+
+Robertson Bay is formed by the long peninsula of Cape Adare,
+within which, standing but slightly above the level of the sea,
+is a curious triangular spit, probably the morainic remains of
+the vaster ice conditions of former ages. It was on this spit
+that the expedition sent forth by Sir George Newnes and commanded
+by Borchgrevink spent their winter in 1896, the first party to
+winter on the shores of the Antarctic Continent. Here Scott decided
+to land for a short time, and very soon Armitage, Bernacchi and
+Barne were at work among the thousands of penguins that abounded,
+while the naturalists wandered further afield in search of specimens.
+In the center of Cape Adare beach the hut used by the members
+of Borchgrevink's party was still found to be standing in very
+good condition, though at the best of times deserted dwellings
+are far from cheerful to contemplate. Bernacchi had been a member
+of this small party of eight, and on the spot he recalled the past,
+and told of the unhappy death of Hanson--one of his comrades.
+
+Later on Bernacchi and some others landed again to visit Hanson's
+grave, and to see that all was well with it. They took a tin cylinder
+containing the latest report of the voyage with them, and were
+told to place it in some conspicuous part of the hut. In the
+following year this cylinder was found by the Morning, [Footnote:
+The relief ship.] and so the first information was given that
+the Discovery had succeeded in reaching these southern regions.
+
+On January 10, when the weather was still calm and bright, the
+ship again stood out to sea, and was steered close around Cape
+Adare in the hope of finding a clear channel near at hand. Very
+soon, however, the tidal stream began to make from the south,
+and the whole aspect of the streams of heavy pack-ice rapidly
+changed. Almost immediately the pack was about the ship, and
+she was being rapidly borne along with it. Across the entrance
+to the bay was a chain of grounded icebergs, and it was in this
+direction that she was being carried. For the first time they
+faced the dangers of the pack, and realized its mighty powers.
+Little or nothing could be done, for the floes around them were
+heavier than anything they had yet encountered. Twist and turn
+as they would no appreciable advance could be made, and in front
+of one colossal floe the ship was brought to a standstill for
+nearly half an hour. But they still battled on; Armitage remained
+aloft, working the ship with admirable patience; the engine-room,
+as usual, answered nobly to the call for more steam, and the
+Discovery exerted all her powers in the struggle; but, in spite
+of these efforts, progress was so slow that it looked almost
+certain that she would be carried down among the bergs. 'It was
+one of those hours,' Scott says, 'which impress themselves for
+ever on the memory. Above us the sun shone in a cloudless sky,
+its rays were reflected from a myriad points of tire glistening
+pack; behind us lay the lofty snow-clad mountains, the brown
+sun-kissed cliffs of the Cape, and the placid glassy waters of
+the bay; the air about us was almost breathlessly still; crisp,
+clear and sun-lit, it seemed an atmosphere in which all Nature
+should rejoice; the silence was broken only by the deep panting
+of our engines and the slow, measured hush of the grinding floes;
+yet, beneath all, ran this mighty, relentless tide, bearing us
+on to possible destruction. It seemed desperately unreal that
+danger could exist in the midst of so fair a scene, and as one
+paced to and fro on the few feet of throbbing plank that constituted
+our bridge, it was difficult to persuade oneself that we were
+so completely impotent.'
+
+With the exception of Scott himself only those who were actually
+on watch were on deck during this precarious time, for the hour
+was early, and the majority were asleep in their bunks below,
+happily oblivious of the possible dangers before them. And the
+fact that they were not aroused is a proof that a fuss was rarely
+made in the Discovery, if it could by any conceivable means be
+avoided.
+
+At last, however, release came from this grave danger, and it
+came so gradually that it was difficult to say when it happened.
+Little by little the tidal stream slackened, the close-locked
+floes fell slightly apart, and under her full head of steam the
+ship began to forge ahead towards the open sea and safety. 'For
+me,' Scott adds, 'the lesson had been a sharp and, I have no
+doubt, a salutary one; we were here to fight the elements with
+their icy weapons, and once and for all this taught me not to
+undervalue the enemy.' During the forenoon the ship was within
+seven or eight miles of the high bold coast-line to the south
+of Cape Adare, but later she had to be turned outwards so that
+the heavy stream of pack-ice drifting along the land could be
+avoided. By the morning of the 11th she was well clear of the
+land, but the various peaks and headlands which Sir James Ross
+had named could be distinctly seen, and gave everyone plenty
+to talk and think about. Progress, however, was slow, owing to
+a brisk S. E. wind and the fact that only one boiler was being
+used.
+
+Of all economies practiced on board the most important was that
+of coal, but Scott was not at all sure that this decision to
+use only one boiler was really economical. Certainly coal was
+saved but time was also wasted, and against an adverse wind the
+Discovery could only make fifty-five miles on the 11th, and on
+the 12th she scarcely made any headway at all, for the wind had
+increased and a heavy swell was coming up from the south.
+
+To gain shelter Scott decided to turn in towards the high cliffs
+of Coulman Island, the land of which looked illusively near as
+they approached it. So strong was this deception that the engines
+were eased when the ship was still nearly two miles away from
+the cliffs. Later on, in their winter quarters and during their
+sledge journeys, they got to know how easy it was to be deluded as
+regards distance, and what very false appearances distant objects
+could assume. This matter is of interest, because it shows that
+Polar explorers must be exceedingly cautious in believing the
+evidence of their own eyes, and it also explains the errors
+which the Discovery expedition found to have been made by former
+explorers, and which they knew must have been made in all good faith.
+
+During the night of the 13th the ship lay under the shelter of
+Coulman Island, but by the morning the wind had increased to
+such a furious gale, and the squalls swept down over the cliffs
+with such terrific violence, that in spite of every effort to
+keep her in her station she began to lose ground. In the afternoon
+the wind force was ninety miles an hour, and as they continued
+to lose ground they got into a more choppy sea, which sent the
+spray over them in showers, to freeze as it fell.
+
+Again the situation was far from pleasant; to avoid one berg
+they were forced to go about, and in doing so they ran foul of
+another. As they came down on it the bowsprit just swept clear
+of its pinnacled sides, and they took the shock broad on their
+bows. It sent the ship reeling round, but luckily on the right
+tack to avoid further complications. The following night was
+dismal enough; again and again small bergs appeared through the
+blinding spray and drift, and only with great difficulty could the
+unmanageable ship be brought to clear them. Even gales, however,
+must have an end, and towards morning the wind moderated, and
+once more they were able to steam up close to the island. And
+there, between two tongues of ice off Cape Wadworth, they landed
+on the steep rocks and erected a staff bearing a tin cylinder
+with a further record of the voyage. By the time this had been
+done the wind had fallen completely, and in the evening the ship
+entered a long inlet between Cape Jones and the barrier-ice, and
+later turned out, of this into a smaller inlet in the barrier-ice
+itself. She was now in a very well-sheltered spot, and night,
+as often happened in the Antarctic regions, was turned into day
+so that several seals could be killed. 'It, seemed a terrible
+desecration,' Scott says, 'to come to this quiet spot only to
+murder its innocent inhabitants, and stain the white snow with
+blood.' But there was the best of all excuses, namely necessity,
+for this massacre, because there was no guarantee that seals
+would be found near the spot in which the ship wintered, and
+undoubtedly the wisest plan was to make sure of necessary food.
+
+While the seal carcasses and some ice for the boilers were being
+obtained, Scott turned in to get some rest before putting out
+to sea again, and on returning to the deck at 7.30 he was told
+that the work was completed, but that some five hours before
+Wilson, Ferrar, Cross and Weller had got adrift of a floe, and
+that no one had thought of picking them up. Although the sun
+had been shining brightly all night, the temperature had been down
+to 18°, and afar off Scott could see four disconsolate figures
+tramping about, and trying to keep themselves warm on a detached
+floe not more than fifteen yards across.
+
+When at length the wanderers scrambled over the side it was very
+evident that they had a grievance, and not until they had been
+warmed by hot cocoa could they talk with ease of their experiences.
+They had been obliged to keep constantly on the move, and when
+they thought of smoking to relieve the monotony they found that
+they had pipes and tobacco, but no matches. While, however, they
+were dismally bemoaning this unfortunate state of affairs Wilson,
+who did not smoke, came to the rescue and succeeded in producing
+fire with a small pocket magnifying glass--a performance which
+testified not only to Wilson's resource, but also to the power
+of the sun in these latitudes.
+
+On the 17th the ship had to stand out farther and farther from
+the land to clear the pack, and when on the 18th she arrived in
+the entrance to Wood Bay it was also found to be heavily packed. A
+way to the N. and N.W. the sharp peaks of Monteagle and Murchison,
+among bewildering clusters of lesser summits, could be seen;
+across the bay rose the magnificent bare cliff of Cape Sibbald,
+while to the S.W. the eye lingered pleasantly upon the uniform
+outline of Mount Melbourne. This fine mountain rears an almost
+perfect volcanic cone to a height of 9,000 feet, and with no
+competing height to take from its grandeur, it constitutes the
+most magnificent landmark on the coast. Cape Washington, a bold,
+sharp headland, projects from the foot of the mountain on its
+eastern side, and finding such heavy pack in Wood Bay, Scott
+decided to turn to the south to pass around this cape.
+
+From this point the voyage promised to be increasingly interesting,
+since the coast to the south of Cape Washington was practically
+unknown. Pack-ice was still a formidable obstacle, but on the
+20th the Discovery pushed her way into an inlet where she met
+ice which had been formed inside and but recently broken up. The
+ice was perfectly smooth, and as it showed absolutely no sign
+of pressure there was no doubting that this inlet would make a
+secure wintering harbor. Already a latitude had been reached in
+which it was most desirable to find safe winter quarters for the
+ship. In England many people had thought that Wood Bay would be
+the most southerly spot where security was likely to be found, but
+Scott had seen enough of the coast-line to the south of that place
+to realize the impossibility of traveling along it in sledges,
+and to convince him that if any advance to the south was to be
+made, a harbor in some higher latitude must be found.
+
+This inlet was afterwards named Granite Harbor, and so snug and
+secure a spot was it to winter in that Scott expressed his
+thankfulness that he did not yield to its allurements. 'Surrounded
+as we should have been by steep and lofty hills, we could have
+obtained only the most local records of climatic conditions, and
+our meteorological observations would have been comparatively
+valueless; but the greatest drawback would have been that we
+should be completely cut off from traveling over the sea-ice
+beyond the mouth of our harbor.... It is when one remembers how
+naturally a decision to return to this place might have been
+made, that one sees how easily the results of the expedition
+might have been missed.'
+
+It was, however, consoling at the time to know that, in default of
+a better place, a safe spot had been found for wintering, so with
+Granite Harbor in reserve the ship again took up her battle with
+the ice; and on the 21st she was in the middle of McMurdo Sound,
+and creeping very slowly through the pack-ice, which appeared
+from the crow's-nest to extend indefinitely ahead. They were now
+within a few miles of the spot where they ultimately took up their
+winter quarters, but nearly three weeks were to pass before they
+returned there. 'At 8 P.M. on the 21st,' Scott says, 'we thought
+we knew as much of this region as our heavy expenditure of coal
+in the pack-ice would justify us in finding out, and as before us
+lay the great unsolved problem of the barrier and of what lay
+beyond it, we turned our course with the cry of Eastward ho!'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+IN SEARCH OF WINTER QUARTERS
+
+  Beholde I see the haven near at hand
+  To which I mean my wearie course to bend;
+  Vere the main sheet and bear up to the land
+  To which afore is fairly to be ken'd.
+  --SPENSER, Faerie Queene.
+
+In their journey from Cape Washington to the south something had
+already been done to justify the dispatch of the expedition. A
+coast-line which hitherto had been seen only at a great distance,
+and reported so indefinitely that doubts were left with regard
+to its continuity, had been resolved into a concrete chain of
+mountains; and the positions and forms of individual heights,
+with the curious ice formations and the general line of the coast,
+had been observed. In short the map of the Antarctic had already
+received valuable additions, and whatever was to happen in the
+future that, at any rate, was all to the good.
+
+At 8 P.M. on the 22nd the ship arrived off the bare land to the
+westward of Cape Crozier, where it was proposed to erect a post
+and leave a cylinder containing an account of their doings, so
+that the chain of records might be completed. After a landing
+had been made with some difficulty, a spot was chosen in the
+center of the penguin rookery on a small cliff overlooking the
+sea, and here the post was set up and anchored with numerous
+boulders. In spite of every effort to mark the place, at a few
+hundred yards it was almost impossible to distinguish it; but
+although this small post on the side of a vast mountain looked
+a hopeless clue, it eventually brought the Morning into McMurdo
+Sound.
+
+While Bernacchi and Barne set up their magnetic instruments and
+began the chilly task of taking observations, the others set
+off in twos and threes to climb the hillside. Scott, Royds and
+Wilson scrambled on until at last they reached the summit of
+the highest of the adjacent volcanic cones, and were rewarded
+by a first view of the Great Ice Barrier. [Footnote: The immense
+sheet of ice, over 400 miles wide and of still greater length.]
+
+'Perhaps,' Scott says, 'of all the problems which lay before
+us in the south we were most keenly interested in solving the
+mysteries of this great ice-mass.... For sixty years it had been
+discussed and rediscussed, and many a theory had been built on
+the slender foundation of fact which alone the meager information
+concerning it could afford. Now for the first time this extraordinary
+ice-formation was seen from above.... It was an impressive sight
+and the very vastness of what lay at our feet seemed to add to
+our sense of its mystery.'
+
+Early on the 23rd they started to steam along the ice-face of
+the barrier; and in order that nothing should be missed it was
+arranged that the ship should continue to skirt close to the
+ice-cliff, that the officers of the watch should repeatedly observe
+and record its height, and that three times in the twenty-four
+hours the ship should be stopped and a sounding taken. In this
+manner a comparatively accurate survey of the northern limit
+of the barrier was made.
+
+On steaming along the barrier it was found that although they
+were far more eager to gain new information than to prove that
+old information was incorrect, a very strong case soon began
+to arise against the Parry Mountains, which Ross had described
+as 'probably higher than we have yet seen'; and later on it was
+known with absolute certainty that these mountains did not exist.
+This error on the part of such a trustworthy and cautious observer,
+Scott ascribes to the fact that Ross, having exaggerated the
+height of the barrier, was led to suppose that anything seen
+over it at a distance must be of great altitude. 'But,' he adds,
+'whatever the cause, the facts show again how deceptive appearances
+may be and how easily errors may arise. In fact, as I have said
+before, one cannot always afford to trust the evidence of one's
+own eyes.' Though the ship was steaming along this ice-wall for
+several days, the passage was not in the least monotonous, because
+new variations were continually showing themselves, and all of
+them had to be carefully observed and recorded. This work continued
+for several days until, on January 29, they arrived at a particularly
+interesting place, to the southward and eastward of the extreme
+position reached by Ross in 1842. From that position he had reported
+a strong appearance of land to the southeast, and consequently
+all eyes were directed over the icy cliffs in that direction.
+But although the afternoon was bright and clear, nothing from
+below or from aloft could be seen, and the only conclusion to
+be made was that the report was based on yet another optical
+illusion.
+
+But in spite of the disappointment at being unable to report
+that Ross's 'appearance of land' rested on solid foundations,
+there was on the afternoon of the 29th an indescribable sense
+of impending change. 'We all felt that the plot was thickening,
+and we could not fail to be inspirited by the fact that we had
+not so far encountered the heavy pack-ice which Ross reported
+in this region, and that consequently we were now sailing in
+an open sea into an unknown world.'
+
+The course lay well to the northward of east, and the change came
+at 8 P.M. when suddenly the ice-cliff turned to the east, and
+becoming more and more irregular continued in that direction for
+about five miles, when again it turned sharply to the north. Into
+the deep bay thus formed they ran, and as the ice was approached
+they saw at once that it was unlike anything yet seen. The ice-foot
+descended to various heights of ten or twenty feet above the
+water, and behind it the snow surface rose in long undulating
+slopes to rounded ridges, the heights of which could only be
+guessed. Whatever doubt remained in their minds that this was
+snow-covered land, a sounding of 100 fathoms quickly removed it.
+
+But what a land! On the swelling mounds of snow above them there
+was not one break, not a feature to give definition to the hazy
+outline. No scene could have been more perfectly devised to produce
+optical illusions. And then, while there was so much to observe,
+a thick fog descended, and blotted out all hope of seeing what
+lay beyond the ice-foot. During the afternoon of January 30 the
+fog was less dense, but still no sign of bare land could be seen,
+and it was not until the bell had sounded for the evening meal
+that two or three little black patches, which at first were mistaken
+for detached cloud, appeared. 'We gazed idly enough at them till
+someone remarked that he did not believe they were clouds; then all
+glasses were leveled; assertions and contradictions were numerous,
+until the small black patches gradually assumed more and more
+definite shape, and all agreed that at last we were looking at
+real live rock, the actual substance of our newly discovered
+land.... It is curious to reflect now on the steps which led us
+to the discovery of King Edward's Land, and the chain of evidence
+which came to us before the actual land itself was seen: at first
+there had been the shallow soundings, and the sight of gently
+rising snow-slopes, of which, in the nature of things, one is
+obliged to retain a doubt; then the steeper broken slopes of
+snow, giving a contrast to convey a surer evidence to the eye;
+and, finally the indubitable land itself, but even then surrounded
+with such mystery as to leave us far from complete satisfaction
+with our discovery.'
+
+The temptation to push farther and farther to the east was almost
+irresistible, but with the young ice forming rapidly around them,
+Scott, on February 1, decided to return, and on their way back
+along the barrier they experienced much lower temperatures than
+on the outward journey. During the return journey they landed
+on the barrier, and on February 4 preparations for a balloon
+ascent were made. 'The honor,' Scott says, 'of being the first
+aeronaut to make an ascent in the Antarctic Regions, perhaps
+somewhat selfishly, I chose for myself, and I may further confess
+that in so doing I was contemplating the first ascent I had made
+in any region, and as I swayed about in what appeared a very
+inadequate basket and gazed down on the rapidly diminishing figures
+below, I felt some doubt as to whether I had been wise in my choice.'
+
+If, however, this ascent was not altogether enjoyed by the aeronaut,
+it, at any rate, gave him considerable information about the
+barrier surface towards the south; and, to his surprise, he
+discovered that instead of the continuous level plain that he had
+expected, it continued in a series of long undulations running
+approximately east and west, or parallel to the barrier surface.
+Later on, however, when the sledge-party taken out by Armitage
+returned, they reported that these undulations were not gradual
+as had been supposed from the balloon, but that the crest of each
+wave was flattened into a long plateau, from which the descent
+into the succeeding valley was comparatively sharp. On the evening
+of the 4th they put out to sea again, and on the 8th they were
+once more in McMurdo Sound, with high hopes that they would soon
+find a sheltered nook in which the Discovery could winter safely,
+and from which the sledge-parties could set forth upon the task
+of exploring the vast new world around them.
+
+Without any delay they set out to examine their immediate
+surroundings, and found a little bay which promised so well for
+the winter that Scott's determination to remain in this region
+was at once strengthened. The situation, however, was surrounded
+with difficulties, for although the ice had broken far afield
+it refused to move out of the small bay on which they had looked
+with such eager eyes; consequently they were forced to cling to
+the outskirts of the bay with their ice-anchors, in depths that
+were too great to allow the large anchors to be dropped to the
+bottom. The weather also was troublesome, for after the ship had
+lain quietly during several hours a sudden squall would fling
+her back on her securing ropes, and, uprooting the ice-anchors,
+would ultimately send her adrift.
+
+In spite, however, of the difficulty of keeping the ship in position,
+steady progress was made with the work on shore, and this consisted
+mainly in erecting the various huts which had been brought in
+pieces. The original intention had been that the Discovery should
+not winter in the Antarctic, but should land a small party and turn
+northward before the season closed, and for this party a large hut
+had been carried south. But even when it had been decided to keep
+the ship as a home, it was obvious that a shelter on shore must be
+made before exploring parties could be safely sent away; since
+until the ship was frozen in a heavy gale might have driven her
+off her station for several days, if not altogether. In seeking
+winter quarters so early in February, Scott had been firmly
+convinced that the season was closing in. 'With no experience
+to guide us, our opinion could only be based on the very severe
+and unseasonable conditions which we had met with to the east.
+But now to our astonishment we could see no sign of a speedy
+freezing of the bay; the summer seemed to have taken a new lease,
+and for several weeks the fast sea-ice continued to break silently
+and to pass quietly away to the north in large floes.'
+
+In addition to the erection of the main hut, two small huts which
+had been brought for the magnetic instruments had to be put together.
+The parts of these were, of course, numbered, but the wood was
+so badly warped that Dailey, the carpenter, had to use a lot
+of persuasion before the joints would fit.
+
+On February 14 Scott wrote in his diary: 'We have landed all
+the dogs, and their kennels are ranged over the hillside below
+the huts.... It is surprising what a number of things have to be
+done, and what an unconscionable time it takes to do them. The
+hut-building is slow work, and much of our time has been taken
+in securing the ship.... Names have been given to the various
+landmarks in our vicinity. The end of our peninsula is to be
+called "Cape Armitage," after our excellent navigator. The sharp
+hill above it is to be "Observation Hill."... Next comes the
+"Gap," through which we can cross the peninsula at a comparatively
+low level. North of the "Gap" are "Crater Heights," and the higher
+volcanic peak beyond is to be "Crater Hill"; it is 1,050 feet
+in height. Our protecting promontory is to be "Hut Point," with
+"Arrival Bay" on the north and "Winter Quarter Bay" on the south;
+above "Arrival Bay" are the "Arrival Heights," which continue
+with breaks for about three miles to a long snow-slope, beyond
+which rises the most conspicuous landmark on our peninsula, a
+high, precipitous-sided rock with a flat top, which has been
+dubbed "Castle Rock"; it is 1,350 feet in height.
+
+'In spite of the persistent wind, away up the bay it is possible
+to get some shelter, and here we take our ski exercise.... Skelton
+is by far the best of the officers, though possibly some of the
+men run him close.'
+
+On the 19th the first small reconnoitering sledge party went
+out, and on their return three days later they were so excited
+by their experiences that some time passed before they could
+answer the questions put to them. Although the temperature had
+not been severe they had nearly got into serious trouble by
+continuing their march in a snowstorm, and when they did stop
+to camp they were so exhausted that frost-bites were innumerable.
+The tent had been difficult to get up, and all sorts of trouble
+with the novel cooking apparatus had followed. 'It is strange
+now,' Scott wrote three years later, 'to look back on these first
+essays at sledding, and to see how terribly hampered we were by
+want of experience.'
+
+By February 26 the main hut was practically finished, and as
+a quantity of provisions and oil, with fifteen tons of coal,
+had been landed, the ship could be left without anxiety, and
+arrangements for the trip, which Scott hoped to lead himself,
+were pushed forward. The object of this journey was to try and
+reach the record at Cape Crozier over the barrier, and to leave
+a fresh communication there with details of the winter quarters.
+On the following day, however, Scott damaged his right knee while
+skiing, and had to give up all idea of going to Cape Crozier.
+'I already foresaw how much there was to be learnt if we were
+to do good sledding work in the spring, and to miss such an
+opportunity of gaining experience was terribly trying; however,
+there was nothing to be done but to nurse my wounded limb and
+to determine that never again would I be so rash as to run hard
+snow-slopes on ski.'
+
+By March 4 the preparation of the sledge party was completed.
+The party consisted of four officers, Royds, Koettlitz, Skelton
+and Barne, and eight men, and was divided into two teams, each
+pulling a single sledge and each assisted by four dogs. But again
+the want of experience was badly felt, and in every respect the
+lack of system was apparent. Though each requirement might have
+been remembered, all were packed in a confused mass, and, to
+use a sailor's expression, 'everything was on top and nothing
+handy.' Once more Scott comments upon this lack of experience: 'On
+looking back I am only astonished that we bought that experience so
+cheaply, for clearly there were the elements of catastrophe as
+well as of discomfort in the disorganized condition in which our
+first sledge parties left the ship.'
+
+The days following the departure of the sledge party were
+exceptionally fine, but on Tuesday, March 11, those on board
+the ship woke to find the wind blowing from the east; and in
+the afternoon the wind increased, and the air was filled with
+thick driving snow. This Tuesday was destined to be one of the
+blackest days spent by the expedition in the Antarctic, but no
+suspicion that anything untoward had happened to the sledge party
+arose until, at 8.30 P.M., there was a report that four men were
+walking towards the ship. Then the sense of trouble was immediate,
+and the first disjointed sentences of the newcomers were enough
+to prove that disasters had occurred. The men, as they emerged
+from their thick clothing, were seen to be Wild, Weller, Heald
+and Plumley, but until Scott had called Wild, who was the most
+composed of the party, aside, he could not get any idea of what
+had actually happened, and even Wild was too exhausted, and
+excited to give anything but a meager account.
+
+Scott, however, did manage to discover that a party of nine,
+In charge of Barne, had been sent back, and early in the day
+had reached the crest of the hills somewhere by Castle Rock.
+In addition, Wild told him, to the four who had returned, the
+party had consisted of Barne, Quartley, Evans, Hare and Vince.
+They had thought that they were quite close to the ship, and
+when the blizzard began they had left their tents and walked
+towards her supposed position. Then they found themselves on
+a steep slope and tried to keep close together, but it was
+impossible to see anything. Suddenly Hare had disappeared, and
+a few minutes after Evans went. Barne and Quartley had left them
+to try to find out what had become of Evans, and neither of them
+had come back, though they waited. Afterwards they had gone on,
+and had suddenly found themselves at the edge of a precipice with
+the sea below; Vince had shot past over the edge. Wild feared
+all the others must be lost; he was sure Vince had gone. Could
+he guide a search party to the scene of the accident? He thought
+he could--at any rate he would like to try.
+
+The information was little enough but it was something on which
+to act, and though the first disastrous news had not been brought
+until 8.30 P.M. the relieving party had left the ship before
+9 P.M. Owing to his knee Scott could not accompany the party,
+and Armitage took charge of it.
+
+Subsequently the actual story of the original sledge party was
+known, and the steps that led to the disaster could be traced.
+On their outward journey they had soon come to very soft snow,
+and after three days of excessive labor Royds had decided that
+the only chance of making progress was to use snow-shoes; but
+unfortunately there were only three pairs of ski with the party,
+and Royds resolved to push on to Cape Crozier with Koettlitz
+and Skelton, and to send the remainder back in charge of Barne.
+
+The separation took place on the 9th, and on the 11th the returning
+party, having found an easier route than on their way out, were
+abreast of Castle Rock. Scarcely, however, had they gained the
+top of the ridge about half a mile south-west of Castle Rock, when
+a blizzard came on and the tents were hastily pitched.
+
+'We afterwards weathered many a gale,' Scott says, 'in our staunch
+little tents, whilst their canvas sides flapped thunderously hour
+after hour.... But to this party the experience was new; they
+expected each gust that swept down on them would bear the tents
+bodily away, and meanwhile the chill air crept through their
+leather boots and ill-considered clothing, and continually some
+frost-bitten limb had to be nursed back to life.'
+
+At ordinary times hot tea or cocoa would have revived their spirits,
+but now the cooking apparatus was out of order, and taking everything
+into consideration it was small wonder that they resolved to make
+for the ship, which they believed to be only a mile or so distant.
+
+'Before leaving,' Barne wrote in his report, 'I impressed on the
+men, as strongly as I could, the importance of keeping together, as
+it was impossible to distinguish any object at a greater distance
+than ten yards on account of the drifting snow.' But after they
+had struggled a very short distance, Hare, who had been at the
+rear of the party, was reported to be missing, and soon afterwards
+Evans 'stepped back on a patch of bare smooth ice, fell, and
+shot out of sight immediately.'
+
+Then Barne, having cautioned his men to remain where they were,
+sat down and deliberately started to slide in Evans's track.
+In a moment the slope grew steeper, and he was going at such a
+pace that all power to check himself had gone. In the mad rush
+he had time to wonder vaguely what would come next, and then
+his flight was arrested, and he stood up to find Evans within
+a few feet of him. They had scarcely exchanged greetings when
+the figure of Quartley came hurtling down upon them from the
+gloom, for he had started on the same track, and had been swept
+down in the same breathless and alarming manner. To return by
+the way they had come down was impossible, and so they decided
+to descend, but within four paces of the spot at which they had
+been brought to rest, they found that the slope ended suddenly in
+a steep precipice, beyond which nothing but clouds of snow could
+be seen. For some time after this they sat huddled together,
+forlornly hoping that the blinding drift would cease, but at
+last they felt that whatever happened they must keep on the move,
+and groping their way to the right they realized that the sea was
+at their feet, and that they had been saved from it by a patch
+of snow almost on the cornice of the cliff. Presently a short
+break in the storm enabled them to see Castle Rock above their
+heads, and slowly making their way up the incline, they sought
+the shelter of a huge boulder; and there, crouched together,
+they remained for several hours.
+
+Meanwhile the party had remained in obedience to orders at the
+head of the slope, and had shouted again and again in the lulls
+of the whirling storm. But after waiting for a long time they
+felt that something was amiss, and that it was hopeless to remain
+where they were. 'As usual on such occasions,' Scott says, 'the
+leading spirit came to the fore, and the five who now remained
+submitted themselves to the guidance of Wild, and followed him
+in single file as he again struck out in the direction in which
+they supposed the ship to lie.' In this manner they descended for
+about 500 yards, until Wild suddenly saw the precipice beneath
+his feet, and far below, through the wreathing snow, the sea.
+He sprang back with a cry of warning, but in an instant Vince
+had flashed past and disappeared.
+
+Then, horror-stricken and dazed, they vaguely realized that at
+all costs they must ascend the slope down which they had just
+come. All of them spoke afterwards of that ascent with horror,
+and wondered how it had ever been made. They could only hold
+themselves by the soles of their boots, and to slip to their
+knees meant inevitably to slide backwards towards the certain
+fate below. Literally their lives depended on each foothold.
+Wild alone had a few light nails in his boots, and to his great
+credit he used this advantage to give a helping hand in turn
+to each of his companions. When, after desperate exertions, they
+did reach the top of the slope their troubles were not finished,
+for they were still ignorant of the position of the ship. Wild,
+however, again took the lead, and it was largely due to him that
+the party eventually saw the ship looming through the whirl of
+snow. 'It is little wonder that after such an experience they
+should have been, as I have mentioned, both excited and tired.'
+
+The hours following the departure of Armitage and his search
+party on this fatal night were unforgettable. Scott, hatefully
+conscious of his inability to help on account of his injured leg,
+admits that he could not think of any further means to render
+assistance, but he says, 'as was always my experience in the
+Discovery, my companions were never wanting in resource.' Soon
+the shrill screams of the siren were echoing among the hills,
+and in ten minutes after the suggestion had been made, a whaler
+was swinging alongside ready to search the cliffs on the chance
+of finding Vince.
+
+But for Scott and those who had to wait inactively on board there
+was nothing to do but stand and peer through the driving snow,
+and fully three hours passed before there was a hail from without,
+and Ferrar appeared leading three of the lost--Barne, Evans and
+Quartley. An hour later the main search party returned, having
+done all that men could do in such weather. A more complete search
+was impossible, but it had to be admitted that the chance of
+seeing Hare or Vince again was very small. Sadly it had to be
+realized that two men were almost certainly lost, but there was
+also no disguising the fact that a far greater tragedy might
+have happened. Indeed, it seemed miraculous that any of the party
+were alive to tell the tale, and had not Barne, Evans and Quartley
+heard the faint shrieks of the siren, and in response to its
+welcome sound made one more effort to save themselves, the sledge
+party would in all probability not have found them. All three
+of them were badly frost-bitten, and one of Barne's hands was
+in such a serious condition that for many days it was thought
+that his fingers would have to be amputated.
+
+The end of this story, however, is not yet told, for on March
+13 Scott wrote in his diary: 'A very extraordinary thing has
+happened. At 10 A.M. a figure was seen descending the hillside.
+At first we thought it must be some one who had been for an early
+walk; but it was very soon seen that the figure was walking weakly,
+and, immediately after, the men who were working in the hut were
+seen streaming out towards it. In a minute or two we recognized
+the figure as that of young Hare, and in less than five he was
+on board.... We soon discovered that though exhausted, weak,
+and hungry, he was in full possession of his faculties and quite
+free from frost-bites. He went placidly off to sleep whilst
+objecting to the inadequacy of a milk diet.'
+
+Later on Hare, who like Vince had been wearing fur boots, explained
+that he had left his companions to return to the sledges and get
+some leather boots, and had imagined that the others understood
+what he intended to do. Soon after he had started back he was
+wandering backwards and forwards, and knew that he was walking
+aimlessly to and fro. The last thing he remembered was making
+for a patch of rock where he hoped to find shelter, and there
+he must have lain in the snow for thirty-six hours, though he
+required a lot of persuasion before he could be convinced of
+this. When he awoke he found himself covered with snow, but on
+raising himself he recognized Crater Hill and other landmarks,
+and realized exactly where the ship lay. Then he started towards
+her, but until his intense stiffness wore off he was obliged
+to travel upon his hands and knees.
+
+But though Hare was safe, Vince was undoubtedly gone. 'Finally
+and sadly we had to resign ourselves to the loss of our shipmate,
+and the thought was grievous to all.... Life was a bright thing
+to him, and it is something to think that death must have come
+quickly in the grip of that icy sea.'
+
+This fatal mishap naturally caused increased anxiety about the
+three men who had gone on, and anxiety was not diminished when,
+on the 19th, Skelton was seen coming down, the hill alone. The
+others, however, were close behind him, and all three of them
+were soon safely on board.
+
+On the 15th Royds had been compelled to abandon the attempt to
+reach the record at Cape Crozier, but he did not turn back until
+it was evident that a better equipped party with more favorable
+weather would easily get to it. On comparing notes with his party,
+Scott recognized what a difference there might be in the weather
+conditions of places within easy reach of the ship, and not only
+in temperature but also in the force and direction of the wind.
+It had not occurred to anyone that within such a short distance
+of the ship any large difference of temperature was probable,
+and as the summer was barely over, Royds, Koettlitz and Skelton
+had only taken a light wolf-skin fur suit for night-wear. This,
+however, had proved totally inadequate when the thermometer fell
+to -42°, and on the night of the 16th uncontrollable paroxysms of
+shivering had prevented them from getting any sleep. The value of
+proper clothing and the wisdom of being prepared for the unexpected
+rigors of such a fickle climate, were two of the lessons learnt
+from the experiences of the Cape Crozier party.
+
+As the days of March went by Scott began really to wonder whether
+the sea ever intended to freeze over satisfactorily, and at such
+an advanced date there were many drawbacks in this unexpected
+state of affairs. Until the ship was frozen in, the security of
+their position was very doubtful; economy of coal had long since
+necessitated the extinction of fires in the boilers, and if a
+heavy gale drove the ship from her shelter, steam could only be
+raised with difficulty and after the lapse of many hours. There
+was, too, the possibility that the ship, if once driven off,
+would not be able to return, and so it was obviously unsafe to
+send a large party away from her, because if she went adrift
+most of them would be needed.
+
+Another annoying circumstance was that until they had a solid sheet
+of ice around them they could neither set up the meteorological
+screen, nor, in short, carry out any of the routine scientific
+work which was such an important object of the expedition.
+
+At this time Scott was eager to make one more sledding effort
+before the winter set in. The ostensible reason was to layout a
+depôt of provisions to the south in preparation for the spring,
+but 'a more serious purpose was to give himself and those who had
+not been away already a practical insight into the difficulties
+of sledge traveling. But as this party would have to include
+the majority of those on board, he was forced to wait until the
+ship was firmly fixed, and it may be said that the Discovery
+was as reluctant to freeze-in as she was difficult to get out
+when once the process had been completed.
+
+On March 28, however, Scott was able to write in his diary: 'The
+sea is at last frozen over, and if this weather lasts the ice
+should become firm enough to withstand future gales. We have
+completed the packing of our sledges, though I cannot say I am
+pleased with their appearance; the packing is not neat enough,
+and we haven't got anything like a system.'
+
+Three days later a party of twelve, divided into two teams, each
+with a string of sledges and nine dogs, made a start. Their loads
+were arranged on the theory of 200 lbs. to each man, and 100 lbs.
+to each dog, but they very quickly discovered that the dogs were
+not going to have anything to do with such a theory as this. The
+best of them would only pull about 50 lbs., and some of the others
+had practically to be pulled.
+
+Later on Scott learned that it was a bad plan to combine men and
+dogs on a sledge, because the dogs have their own pace and manner
+of pulling, and neither of these is adapted to the unequal movement
+caused by the swing of marching men. And on this occasion another
+reason for the inefficiency of the dogs was that they were losing
+their coats, and had but little protection against the bitterly
+cold wind. 'As a matter of fact, our poor dogs suffered a great
+deal from their poorly clothed condition during the next week or
+two, and we could do little to help them; but Nature seemed to
+realize the mistake, and came quickly to the rescue: the new coats
+grew surprisingly fast, and before the winter had really settled
+down on us all the animals were again enveloped in their normally
+thick woolly covering.
+
+The refusal of the dogs to work on this trip meant that the men
+had to do far more than their share, and from the first they had
+no chance of carrying out their intentions. Each hour, however,
+was an invaluable experience, and when a return was made to the
+ship Scott was left with much food for thought. 'In one way or
+another each journey had been a failure; we had little or nothing
+to show for our labors. The errors were patent; food, clothing,
+everything was wrong, the whole system was bad. It was clear that
+there would have to be a thorough reorganization before the spring,
+and it was well to think that before us lay a long winter in which
+this might be effected.'
+
+But in a sense even these failures were successful, for everyone
+resolved to profit by the mistakes that had been made and the
+experience that had been gained, and the successful sledge journeys
+subsequently made in the spring were largely due to the failures
+of the autumn.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+THE POLAR WINTER
+
+  The cold ice slept below,
+  Above the cold sky shone,
+    And all around
+    With a chilling sound
+  From caves of ice and fields of snow
+  The breath of night like death did flow
+            Beneath the sinking moon.
+  --SHELLEY.
+
+The sun was due to depart before the end of April, and so no time
+could be wasted if the outside work, which had been delayed by
+the tardy formation of the ice-sheet, was to be completed before
+the daylight vanished.
+
+One of the most urgent operations was to get up the meteorological
+screen, which had been made under the superintendence of Royds.
+The whole of this rather elaborate erection was, placed about 100
+yards astern of the ship, and consequently in a direction which,
+with the prevalent south-easterly winds, would be to windward of
+her. To obtain a complete record of meteorological observations
+was one of the most important scientific objects of the expedition,
+and it was decided that the instruments should be read and recorded
+every two hours. Consequently in calm or storm some member of the
+community had to be on the alert, and every other hour to make the
+rounds of the various instruments. On a fine night this was no
+great hardship, but in stormy weather the task was not coveted by
+anyone. On such occasions it was necessary to be prepared to resist
+the wind and snowdrift, and the round itself was often full of
+exasperating annoyances. In fact the trials and tribulations of
+the meteorological observers were numerous, and it was arranged
+that throughout the winter each officer should take it in turn
+to make the night observations from 10 P.M. to 6 A.M. Wilson
+nobly offered always to take the 8 A.M. observation, but the
+lion's share of the work fell on Royds himself, since besides
+taking his share of the night work he also, throughout the first
+winter and a great part of the second, took all the observations
+between 10 A.M. and 10 P.M.
+
+The magnetic huts and all that appertained to them were Bernacchi's
+special business, and many times daily he was to be seen journeying
+to and fro in attendance upon his precious charge. The general
+reader may well ask why so much trouble should be taken to ascertain
+small differences in the earth's magnetism, and he can scarcely
+be answered in a few words. Broadly speaking, however, the earth
+is a magnet, and its magnetism is constantly changing. But why
+it is a magnet, or indeed what magnetism may be, is unknown, and
+obviously the most hopeful way of finding an explanation of a
+phenomenon is to study it. For many reasons the Discovery's winter
+station in the Antarctic was an especially suitable place in
+which to record the phenomenon of magnetism.
+
+Besides establishing the routine of scientific work many preparations
+had to be made for the comfort and well-being of the ship during
+the winter, and long before the sun had disappeared the little
+company had settled down to a regular round of daily life.
+
+Later in the year Scott wrote in his diary: 'The day's routine for
+the officers gives four clear hours before tea and three after;
+during these hours all without exception are busily employed
+except for the hour or more devoted to exercise.... It would
+be difficult to say who is the most diligent, but perhaps the
+palm would be given to Wilson, who is always at work; every rough
+sketch made since we started is reproduced in an enlarged and
+detailed form, until we now possess a splendid pictorial
+representation of the whole coastline of Victoria Land.... At
+home many no doubt will remember the horrible depression of spirit
+that has sometimes been pictured as a pendant to the long polar
+night. We cannot even claim to be martyrs in this respect; with
+plenty of work the days pass placidly and cheerfully.'
+
+Nearly seven months before Scott wrote in this cheerful spirit of
+the winter, he had expressed himself warmly about those who were
+to spend it with him. 'I have,' he said in a letter dispatched
+from Port Chalmers on the voyage out, 'the greatest admiration
+for the officers and men, and feel that their allegiance to me is
+a thing assured. Our little society in the wardroom is governed
+by a spirit of good fellowship and patience which is all that
+the heart of man could desire; I am everlastingly glad to be
+one of the company and not forced to mess apart.... The absence
+of friction and the fine comradeship displayed throughout is
+beyond even my best expectation.'
+
+This spirit of good-fellowship and give-and-take was a remarkable
+feature of life during the time spent in the Discovery, and the
+only man Scott had a word to say against was the cook. 'We shipped
+him at the last moment in New Zealand, when our trained cook
+became too big for his boots, and the exchange was greatly for
+the worse; I am afraid he is a thorough knave, but what is even
+worse, he is dirty--an unforgivable crime in a cook.'
+
+Under such circumstances it is obvious that tempers might have
+been overstrained, and apart from the sins of the cook the weather
+was unexpectedly troublesome. Almost without exception the North
+Polar winter has been recorded as a period of quiescence, but in
+the Antarctic the wind blew with monotonous persistency, and calm
+days were very few and far between. Nevertheless Scott had little
+reason to change his original opinion about his companions, all
+of whom were prepared to put up with some unavoidable discomforts,
+and to make the best of a long job.
+
+During the winter a very regular weekly routine was kept up, each
+day having its special food and its special tasks. The week's
+work ended on Friday, and Saturday was devoted to 'clean ship,'
+the officers doing their share of the scrubbing. In the forenoon
+the living-spaces were thoroughly cleaned, holes and corners were
+searched, and while the tub and scrubber held sway the deck became
+a 'snipe marsh.' At this time the holds also were cleared up, the
+bilges pumped out, the upper deck was 'squared up,' and a fresh
+layer of clean snow was sprinkled over that which had been soiled
+by the traffic of the week. Then a free afternoon for all hands
+followed, and after dinner in the wardroom the toast was the
+time-honored one of 'Sweethearts and Wives.'
+
+On Sunday a different garment was put on, not necessarily a newer
+or a cleaner one, the essential point being that it should be
+different from that which had been worn during the week. By 9.30
+the decks had been cleared up, the tables and shelves tidied, and
+the first lieutenant reported 'All ready for rounds.' A humble
+imitation of the usual man-of-war walk-round Sunday inspection
+followed, and Scott had the greatest faith in this system of
+routine, not only because it had a most excellent effect on the
+general discipline and cleanliness of the ship, but also because
+it gave an opportunity to raise and discuss each new arrangement
+that was made to increase the comfort of all on board.
+
+After this inspection of both ship and men, the mess-deck was
+prepared for church; harmonium, reading-desk and chairs were all
+placed according to routine, and the bell was tolled. Scott read
+the service, Koettlitz the lessons, and Royds played the harmonium.
+
+Service over, all stood off for the day and looked forward to the
+feast of mutton which was limited to Sunday. 'By using it thus
+sparingly the handsome gift of the New Zealand farmers should
+last us till the early spring. But it is little use to think of
+the sad day when it will fail; for the present I must confess that
+we always take an extra walk to make quite sure of our appetites
+on Sunday.'
+
+On June 23 the festival of mid-winter was celebrated, and the
+mess-deck was decorated with designs in colored papers and festooned
+with chains and ropes of the same materials. Among the messes
+there was a great contest to have the best decorations, and some
+astonishing results were achieved with little more than brightly
+colored papers, a pair of scissors and a pot of paste. On each
+table stood a grotesque figure or fanciful erection of ice, which
+was cunningly lighted up by candles from within and sent out
+shafts of sparkling light. 'If,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'the
+light-hearted scenes of to-day can end the first period of our
+captivity, what room for doubt is there that we shall triumphantly
+weather the whole term with the same general happiness and
+contentment?'
+
+During the winter months the South Polar Times, edited by
+Shackleton, appeared regularly, and was read with interest and
+amusement by everyone. At first it had been decided that each
+number should contain, besides the editorial, a summary of the
+events and meteorological conditions of the past month, some
+scientifically instructive articles dealing with the work and
+surroundings, and others written in a lighter vein; but, as the
+scheme developed, it was found that such features as caricatures
+and acrostics could be added. One of the pleasantest points in
+connection with the Times was that the men contributed as well
+as the officers; in fact some of the best, and quite the most
+amusing, articles were written by the occupants of the mess-deck.
+But beyond all else the journal owed its excellence to Wilson,
+who produced drawings that deserved--and ultimately obtained--a
+far wider appreciation than could be given to them in the Antarctic.
+So great was the desire to contribute to the first number of
+the S. P. T. that the editor's box was crammed with manuscripts
+by the time the date for sending in contributions had arrived.
+From these there was no difficulty in making a selection, but
+as there was also some danger of hurting the feelings of those
+whose contributions had been rejected, a supplementary journal
+named The Blizzard was produced. This publication, however, had
+but a brief career, for in spite of some good caricatures and a
+very humorous frontispiece by Barne, it was so inferior to the
+S. P. T. that even its contributors realized that their mission
+in life did not lie in the paths of literary composition. The
+Blizzard, in short, served its purpose, and then ceased to exist.
+
+In considering the arrangements to make the ship comfortable
+during the dark months, the question of artificial light was as
+difficult as it was important. Paraffin had from the first been
+suggested as the most suitable illuminant, its main disadvantage
+being that it is not a desirable oil to carry in quantities in
+a ship. 'Our luckiest find,' Scott says, 'was perhaps the right
+sort of lamp in which to burn this oil. Fortunately an old Arctic
+explorer, Captain Egerton, presented me with a patent lamp in which
+the draught is produced by a fan worked by clockwork mechanism,
+and no chimney is needed. One can imagine the great mortality
+there would be in chimneys if we were obliged to employ them, so
+that when, on trial, this lamp was found to give an excellent
+light, others of the same sort were purchased, and we now use them
+exclusively in all parts of the ship with extremely satisfactory
+results.'
+
+There was, however, a still brighter illuminant within their
+reach in the shape of acetylene, but not until it became certain
+that they would have to spend a second winter in the Antarctic,
+did their thoughts fly to the calcium carbide which had been
+provided for the hut, and which they had not previously thought
+of using. 'In this manner the darkness of our second winter was
+relieved by a light of such brilliancy that all could pursue
+their occupations by the single burner placed in each compartment.
+I lay great stress on this, because I am confident that this is
+in every way the best illuminant that can be taken for a Polar
+winter, and no future expedition should fail to supply themselves
+with it.'
+
+As has already been said, the meteorological observations had to
+be read and recorded every two hours, and on July 21 Scott gave
+in his diary a full and graphic account of the way he occupied
+himself during his 'night on.' 'Each of us has his own way of
+passing the long, silent hours. My own custom is to devote some
+of it to laundry-work, and I must confess I make a very poor
+fist of it. However, with a bath full of hot water, I commence
+pretty regularly after the ten o'clock observation, and labor
+away until my back aches. There is little difficulty with the
+handkerchiefs, socks and such-like articles, but when it comes
+to thick woolen vests and pajamas, I feel ready to own my
+incapacity; one always seems to be soaping and rubbing at the
+same place, and one is forced to wonder at the area of stuff
+which it takes to cover a comparatively small body. My work is
+never finished by midnight, but I generally pretend that it is,
+and after taking the observations for that hour, return to wring
+everything out. I am astonished to find that even this is no
+light task; as one wrings out one end the water seems to fly to
+the other; then I hang some heavy garment on a hook and wring
+until I can wring no more; but even so, after it has been hung
+for a few minutes on the wardroom clothes-line, it will begin
+to drip merrily on the floor, and I have to tackle it afresh.
+I shall always have a high respect for laundry-work in future,
+but I do not think it can often have to cope with such thick
+garments as we wear.
+
+'Washing over, one can devote oneself to pleasanter occupations.
+The night-watchman is always allowed a box of sardines, which
+are scarce enough to be a great luxury, and is provided with
+tea or cocoa and a spirit-lamp. Everyone has his own ideas as
+to how sardines should be prepared... and I scarcely like to
+record that there is a small company of gourmets, who actually
+wake one another up in order that the night-watchman may present
+his fellow epicures with a small finger of buttered toast, on
+which are poised two sardines "done to a turn." The awakened
+sleeper devours the dainty morsel, grunts his satisfaction, and
+goes placidly off into dreamland again.
+
+'I find that after my labors at the wash-tub and the pleasing
+supper that follows, I can safely stretch myself out in a chair
+without fear of being overcome by sleep, and so, with the
+ever-soothing pipe and one's latest demand on the library
+book-shelves, one settles down in great peace and contentment
+whilst keeping an eye on the flying hours, ready to sally forth
+into the outer darkness at the appointed time.
+
+'The pleasure or pain of that periodic journey is of course entirely
+dependent on the weather. On a fine night it may be quite a pleasure,
+but when, as is more common, the wind is sweeping past the ship,
+the observer is often subjected to exasperating difficulties,
+and to conditions when his conscience must be at variance with
+his inclination.
+
+'Sometimes the lantern will go out at the screen, and he is forced
+to return on board to light it; sometimes it will refuse to shine on
+the thin threads of mercury of the thermometer until it is obvious
+that his proximity has affected the reading, and he is forced to
+stand off until it has again fallen to the air temperature....
+These and many other difficulties in taking observations which
+may be in themselves valueless are met in the right spirit. I
+think we all appreciate that they are part of a greater whole
+whose value must stand or fall by attention to detail.'
+
+At the end of July a most unpleasant fact had to be faced in
+a mishap to the boats. Early in the winter they had been hoisted
+out to give more room for the awning, and had been placed in
+a line about a hundred yards from the ice-foot on the sea-ice.
+The earliest gale drifted them up nearly gunwale high, and thus
+for the next two months they remained in sight. But then another
+gale brought more snow, and was so especially generous with it
+in the neighborhood of the boats, that they were afterwards found
+to be buried three or four feet beneath the surface. With no
+feelings of anxiety, but rather to provide occupation, Scott
+ordered the snow on the top of them to be removed, and not until
+the first boat had been reached was the true state of affairs
+revealed. She was found lying in a mass of slushy ice with which
+she was nearly filled, and though for a moment there was a wild
+hope that she could be pulled up, this soon vanished; for the
+air temperature promptly converted the slush into hardened ice,
+and so she was stuck fast.
+
+Nothing more could be done at that time to recover the boats,
+because as fast as the sodden ice could be dug out, more sea-water
+would have come in and frozen. But to try and prevent bad going to
+worse before the summer brought hope with it, parties were engaged
+day after day in digging away at the snow covering, and in the
+course of months many tons must have been removed. The danger was
+that fresh gales bringing more snow might have sunk the boats so
+far below the surface that they could never be recovered, and
+after each gale the diggers were naturally despondent, as to all
+appearances they had to begin all over again. The prospect, however,
+of having to leave the Antarctic without a single boat in the
+ship, and also the feeling that so much labor must tell in the
+end, spurred on the diggers to renewed vigor, but it was not
+until December that the boats were finally liberated.
+
+Early in August another gale with blinding drift was responsible
+for an experience to Bernacchi and Skelton that once again
+emphasized the bewildering effect of a blizzard. They were in the
+smaller compartment of the main hut completing a set of pendulum
+observations, while Royds was in the larger compartment--the
+hut was used for many and various purposes--rehearsing his nigger
+minstrel troupe. Either because nigger minstrelsy and scientific
+work did not go hand in hand, or because their work was finished,
+Bernacchi and Skelton, soon after the rehearsal began, left the
+hut to return to the ship. Fully an hour and a half afterwards
+Royds and his troupe, numbering more than a dozen, started back,
+and found that the gale had increased and that the whirling snow
+prevented them from seeing anything. Being, however, in such
+numbers, they were able to join hands and sweep along until they
+caught the guide-rope leading to the gangway; and then as they
+traveled along it they heard feeble shouts, and again extending
+their line suddenly fell upon Bernacchi and Skelton, who, having
+entirely lost their bearings, had been reduced to shouting on
+the chance of being heard and rescued.
+
+The hut was scarcely 200 yards from the ship, and the latter
+was not only a comparatively big object but was surrounded by
+guide-ropes and other means of direction, which if encountered
+would have informed the wanderers of their position. Additionally
+Bernacchi and Skelton could be trusted to take the most practical
+course in any difficulty, and so it seems the more incredible
+that they could actually have been lost for two hours. Both of
+them were severely frostbitten about the face and legs, but bitter
+as their experience was it served as yet another warning to those
+who were to go sledding in the spring that no risks could be
+taken in such a capricious climate. Had not Royds been rehearsing
+his troupe on this occasion the results to Bernacchi and Skelton
+must have been more disastrous than they were; consequently the
+idea of using the large hut as a place of entertainment was
+fortunate in more ways than one.
+
+During the first week of May a concert had been given in the
+hut, but this was more or less in the nature of an experiment;
+for Royds, who took infinite pains over these entertainments, had
+arranged a long program with the object of bringing to light any
+possible talent. The result of this was that even the uncritical
+had to confess that most of the performers would have been less
+out of place among the audience. So much dramatic ability, however,
+was shown that Barne was entrusted with the work of producing a
+play, which, after many rehearsals conducted with due secrecy,
+was produced on June 25.
+
+This play was entitled 'The Ticket of Leave,' 'a screaming comedy
+in one act,' and was produced with unqualified success. 'I for
+one,' Scott says, 'have to acknowledge that I have rarely been
+so gorgeously entertained.'
+
+Later on Royds began to organize his nigger minstrel troupe,
+and when the doors of the Royal Terror Theatre opened at 7.30
+on August 6, the temperature outside them was -40°, while inside
+it was well below zero. Under these conditions it is small wonder
+that the audience was glad when the curtain went up. 'There is
+no doubt,' Scott says in reference to this performance, 'that
+sailors dearly love to make up; on this occasion they had taken
+an infinity of trouble to prepare themselves.... "Bones" and
+"Skins" had even gone so far as to provide themselves with movable
+top-knots which could be worked at effective moments by pulling
+a string below.... To-night the choruses and plantation-songs
+led by Royds were really well sung, and they repay him for the
+very great pains he has taken in the rehearsals.'
+
+So with entertainments to beguile the time, and with blizzards
+to endure, and with preparations to make for sledding, the days
+passed by until on August 21 the sun was once more due to return.
+But on that day a few hours of calm in the morning were succeeded
+by whirling snow-squalls from the south, and each lull was followed
+by a wild burst of wind. Scott was glad enough to have everyone
+on board in such weather, and at noon when he had hoped to be
+far over the hills only vast sheets of gleaming snow could be
+seen. The following day, however, was an ideal one for the first
+view of the long-absent sun, and Scott went to the top of Crater
+Hill to watch and welcome. 'Over all the magnificent view the
+sunlight spreads with gorgeous effect after its long absence;
+a soft pink envelops the western ranges, a brilliant red gold
+covers the northern sky; to the north also each crystal of snow
+sparkles with reflected light. The sky shows every gradation
+of light and shade; little flakes of golden sunlit cloud float
+against the pale blue heaven, and seem to hover in the middle
+heights, whilst far above them a feathery white cirrus shades
+to grey on its unlit sides.'
+
+But when the men were told that the sun could be seen from Hut
+Point, to Scott's astonishment they displayed little or no
+enthusiasm. Everyone seemed glad to think that it had been punctual
+in keeping its appointment, but after all they had seen the sun
+a good many times before, and in the next few months they would
+in all probability see it a good many times again, and there was
+no sense in getting excited about it. Some of them did set off at
+a run for the point, while others, since it seemed the right thing
+to do, followed at a walk, but a good number remained on board
+and had their dinner. On August 25 the Feast of the Sun was duly
+celebrated, and the days that followed were fuller than ever with
+preparations for the spring journeys. The only sewing-machine
+clattered away all day long, and the whole company plied their
+needles as if they were being sweated by iron-handed taskmasters.
+The long winter was at an end, and everyone, in the best of spirits,
+was looking forward eagerly to the spring sledge journeys, and
+making garments in which to bid defiance to the wind and the
+weather. As regards the actual sledge equipment which was taken
+to the south, Scott had depended on the experience of others, and
+especially on that of Armitage, but owing to a variety of reasons
+the difficulty of providing an efficient sledding outfit had been
+immense.
+
+In England twenty-five years had passed since any important sledding
+expedition had been accomplished, and during that time not a single
+sledge, and very few portions of a sledge equipment, had been made
+in the country. The popular accounts of former expeditions were
+not written to supply the minute details required, and no memory
+could be expected to retain these details after such a lapse of
+time. In fact the art of sledge-making was lost in England, but
+fortunately the genius of Nansen had transferred it to Norway.
+In the autumn of 1900 Scott had visited Christiania, and there
+received much advice and assistance from Nansen himself. It was
+not, however, until Armitage agreed to serve as second in command
+of the expedition that Scott had anyone on whom he could rely
+to provide the sledding outfit.
+
+In making these preparations for long journeys in the south,
+there was no previous experience to go upon except that which
+had been gained in the north; indeed it was necessary to assume
+that southern conditions would be more or less similar to those
+of the north, and in so far as they proved different the sledding
+outfit ran the risk of failure. Experience taught Scott that in
+many respects the sledding conditions of the south were different
+from those of the north, and so it is only fair to consider the
+sledge journeys taken by the Discovery expedition as pioneer
+efforts. These differences are both climatic and geographical.
+For instance, the conditions in the south are more severe than
+those in the north, both in the lowness of the temperatures and
+in the distressing frequency of blizzards and strong winds. And
+the geographical difference between the work of the northern
+and the southern sledge-traveler is as great as the climatic, if
+not greater, for the main part of northern traveling has been
+and will be done on sea-ice, while the larger part of southern
+traveling has been and will be done over land surfaces, or what
+in this respect are their equivalents.
+
+[Illustration: Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt.]
+
+So impressed was Scott by the impossibility of dragging a sledge
+over the surfaces of the Great Barrier to the South at the rate
+maintained by the old English travelers on the northern sea-ice,
+that he began seriously to think that the British race of explorers
+must have deteriorated rapidly and completely in stamina. But later
+on, in carrying out exploration to the west, he had to travel over
+the sea-ice of the strait, and then he discovered that--given the
+surface there was nothing wrong with the pace at which his sledge
+parties could travel. Probably, however, the distances recorded by
+the northern travelers will never be exceeded in the south, for
+the Antarctic explorer has to meet severer climatic conditions, and
+while pulling his sledge over heavier surfaces he is not likely to
+meet with fewer obstacles in his path. To make marching records is
+not, of course, the main purpose of sledge-travelers, but all the
+same, where conditions are equal, speed and the distance traveled
+are a direct test of the efficiency of sledding preparations, and
+of the spirit of those who undertake this arduous service.
+
+The main differences between the sledges used by the Discovery
+expedition and those used by other explorers were a decrease in
+breadth and an increase in runner surface. Measured across from
+the center of one runner to the center of the other Scott's
+sledges were all, with one exception, 1 foot 5 inches. The runners
+themselves were 3-3/4 inches across, so that the sledge track
+from side to side measured about 1 foot 8-3/4 inches. The lengths
+varied from 12 feet to 7 feet, but the 11-foot sledges proved
+to be by far the most convenient--a length of 12 feet seeming
+to pass just beyond the limit of handiness.
+
+Taking then 11 feet as about the best length for this type of
+sledge, it will be seen that it differed considerably from the
+old Arctic type, which was 10 feet long and 3 feet broad. The
+weight of such all 11-foot sledge was anything between 40 and
+47 lbs., and this was none too light when the full strength of
+the structure was required. Generally speaking, the full load
+that could be put upon them was about 600 lbs. The most important
+part of the sledge is the runner, in which the grain must be
+perfectly straight and even, or it will splinter very easily;
+but it surprised Scott to find what a lot of wear a good wood
+runner would stand, provided that it was only taken over snow.
+'Some of our 9-foot sledges must,' he says, 'have traveled 1,000
+miles, and there was still plenty of wear left in the runners.'
+
+In point of numbers the Discovery's crew was far behind the old
+Northern expeditions; and it was this fact that made Scott decide,
+in arranging a sledge equipment where men and not dogs would
+do most of the haulage, to divide his parties into the smallest
+workable units. The old Northern plan had allowed for parties
+of at least eight, who, having a common tent and cooking
+arrangements, could not be subdivided. Scott's plan was not
+necessarily to limit the number of men in his parties, but to
+divide them into units of three, which should be self-contained,
+so that whenever it was advisable a unit could be detached from
+the main party. Under such a system it is obvious that each unit
+must have its own tent, sleeping-bag, cooker, and so on; and
+therein lay a disadvantage, as economy of material and weight
+can be better carried out with a large unit than with a small
+one.
+
+The weights of a party naturally divide themselves under two
+headings: the permanent, which will not diminish throughout the
+trip, and the consumable, including food, oil, &c. The following
+is a list of the permanent weights carried on Scott's journey to
+the west, and it will give some idea of the variety of articles,
+exclusive of provisions. The party numbered six.
+
+                                                      lbs.
+  2 Sledges with fittings complete                    130
+    Trace                                               5
+  2 Cookers, pannikins and spoons                      30
+  2 Primus lamps, filled                               10
+  2 Tents complete                                     60
+  2 Spades                                              9
+  2 Sleeping-bags with night-gear                     100
+    Sleeping jackets, crampons, spare finnesko         50
+    [Footnote: Reindeer-fur boots.]
+    Medical bag                                         6
+  3 Ice-axes                                            8
+    Bamboos and marks                                  11.5
+    Instruments and camera                             50
+    Alpine rope                                         9
+    Repair and tool bags, sounding-line, tape,
+      sledge brakes                                    15
+    Ski boots for party                                15
+    Ski for party                                      60
+
+    Total                                             568.5
+
+Roughly speaking, a man can drag from 200 to 240 lbs., but his
+load was rarely above 200 lbs. This for six men gave a total
+carrying capacity of 1,200 lbs. and hence about 630 lbs. could
+be devoted to provisions.
+
+Again, speaking very roughly, this amount is about six weeks'
+food for a party of six, but as such a short period is often
+not long enough to satisfy sledge-travelers, they are compelled
+to organize means by which their journey can be prolonged. This
+can be done in two ways; they may either go out earlier in the
+season and lay a depôt at a considerable distance towards their
+goal, or they may arrange to receive assistance from a supporting
+party, which accompanies them for a certain distance on the road
+and helps their advance party to drag a heavier load than they
+can accomplish alone.
+
+Both of these plans were adopted by Scott on the more important
+journeys, and his parties were able to be absent from the ship
+for long periods and to travel long distances.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE START OF THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY
+
+  Hold hard the breath and bend up every spirit
+  To its full height...
+
+                                ...Shew us here
+  That you are worth your breeding, which I doubt not.
+  For there is none so mean or base
+  That have not noble lustre in your eyes.
+  I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips,
+  Straining upon the start.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the later months of the dark season all thoughts had been
+turned to the prospects of the spring journeys, and many times
+the advantages and disadvantages of dogs for sledding were discussed.
+This question of the sacrifice of animal life was one on which
+Scott felt strongly from the time he became an explorer to the
+end of his life. Argue with himself as he might, the idea was
+always repugnant to his nature.
+
+'To say,' he wrote after his first expedition, that dogs do not
+greatly increase the radius of action is absurd; to pretend that
+they can be worked to this end without pain, suffering, and death,
+is equally futile. The question is whether the latter can be
+justified by the gain, and I think that logically it may be;
+but the introduction of such sordid necessity must and does rob
+sledge-traveling of much of its glory. In my mind no journey ever
+made with dogs can approach the height of that fine conception
+which is realized when a party of men go forth to face hardships,
+dangers, and difficulties with their own unaided efforts, and
+by days and weeks of hard physical labor succeed in solving some
+problem of the great unknown. Surely in this case the conquest
+is more nobly and splendidly won.'
+
+When the spring campaign opened in 1902 the original team of
+dogs had been sadly diminished. Of the nineteen that remained
+for the southern journey, all but one--and he was killed at an
+earlier period--left their bones on the great southern plains.
+This briefly is the history of the dogs, but the circumstances
+under which they met their deaths will be mentioned later on.
+
+[Illustration: Sledding.]
+
+Before Scott started on the southern journey he decided to make
+a short trip to the north with the dogs and a party of six officers
+and men, his main purposes being to test the various forms of
+harness, and to find out whether the dogs pulled best in large
+or small teams. During part of this journey, which only lasted
+from September 2 to 5, the four sledges were taken independently
+with four dogs harnessed to each, and it was discovered that if
+the first team got away all right, the others were often keen to
+play the game of 'follow my leader.' Sometimes, indeed, there was
+a positive spirit of rivalry, and on one occasion two competing
+teams got closer and closer to each other, with the natural result
+that when they were near enough to see what was happening, they
+decided that the easiest way to settle the matter was by a free
+fight. So they turned inwards with one accord and met with a
+mighty shock. In a moment there was a writhing mass of fur and
+teeth, and an almost hopeless confusion of dog traces. But even
+in this short trip some experience had been gained; for results
+showed how unwise it was to divide the dogs into small parties,
+and also there was no mistaking which were the strong and which
+the weak dogs, and, what was of more importance, which the willing
+and which the lazy ones.
+
+On September 10, Royds and Koettlitz started off to the south-west
+with Evans, Quartley, Lashly and Wild. And of this party Scott
+wrote: 'They looked very workmanlike, and one could see at a
+glance the vast improvement that has been made since last year.
+The sledges were uniformly packed.... One shudders now to think
+of the slovenly manner in which we conducted things last autumn;
+at any rate here is a first result of the care and attention
+of the winter.'
+
+Armitage and Ferrar with four men left for the west on the following
+day, but owing to the necessity of making fresh harness for the
+dogs and to an exasperating blizzard, Scott was not able to start
+on his southern reconnaissance journey until September 17.
+
+On the morning of that day he and his two companions, Barne and
+Shackleton, with thirteen dogs divided into two teams, left the
+ship in bright sunshine; but by 1.15 P.M., when they camped for
+lunch, the wind was blowing from the east and the thermometer
+was down to -43°.
+
+The sledges carried a fortnight's food for all concerned, together
+with a quantity of stores to form a depôt, the whole giving a
+load of about 90 lbs. per dog; but this journey was destined to
+be only a short and bitter experience.
+
+The reason was that on the night of the 17th the travelers were
+so exhausted that they did not heap enough snow on the skirting
+of the tent, and when Scott woke up on the following morning he
+found himself in the open. 'At first, as I lifted the flap of
+my sleeping-bag, I could not think what had happened. I gazed
+forth on a white sheet of drifting snow, with no sign of the tent
+or my companions. For a moment I wondered what in the world it
+could mean, but the lashing of the snow in my face very quickly
+awoke me to full consciousness, and I sat up to find that in
+some extraordinary way I had rolled out of the tent.'
+
+At the time a violent gale was raging, and through the blinding
+snow Scott could only just see the tent, though it was flapping
+across the foot of his bag; but when he had wriggled back to
+the tent the snow was whirling as freely inside as without, and
+the tent itself was straining so madly at what remained of its
+securing, that something had to be done at once to prevent it
+from blowing away altogether.
+
+So with freezing fingers they gripped the skirting and gradually
+pulled it inwards, and half sitting upon it, half grasping it,
+they tried to hold it against the wild blasts of the storm, while
+they discussed the situation. Discussion, however, was useless. An
+attempt to secure the tent properly in such weather was impossible,
+while they felt that if once they loosed their grip, the tent would
+hasten to leave them at once and for ever. Every now and then
+they were forced to get a fresh hold, and lever themselves once
+more over the skirt. And as they remained hour after hour grimly
+hanging on and warning each other of frostbitten features, their
+sleeping-bags became fuller and fuller of snow, until they were
+lying in masses of chilly slush. Not until 6 P.M. had they by
+ceaseless exertions so far become masters of the situation, that
+there was no further need for the tent to be held with anything
+except the weight of their sleeping-bags. Then an inspection of
+hands showed a number of frostbites, but Barne, whose fingers had
+not recovered from the previous year, had suffered the most. 'To
+have hung on to the tent through all those hours must have been
+positive agony to him, yet he never uttered a word of complaint.'
+
+By 10 P.M. the worst of the storm had passed, and after a few
+hours' sleep and a hot meal, they soon decided that to push on
+after this most miserable experience was very unwise, since by
+returning to the ship they would only lose one day's march and
+everything could be dried for a fresh start.
+
+Apart from 'Brownie,' who spent his time inside the tent, the
+rest of the dogs never uttered a sound during the storm, and
+were found quite happily sleeping in their nests of snow. On
+the journey back the thermometer recorded -53°, and the effect
+of such a temperature upon wet clothing may be imagined. 'I shall
+remember the condition of my trousers for a long while; they
+might have been cut out of sheet iron. It was some time before I
+could walk with any sort of ease, and even when we reached the
+ship I was conscious of carrying an armor plate behind me....
+It will certainly be a very long time before I go to sleep again
+in a tent which is not properly secured.'
+
+On September 24 Scott was ready to start again, but Barne's fingers
+had suffered so severely that his place was taken by the boatswain,
+Feather, who had taken a keen interest in every detail of sledding.
+Owing to the dogs refusing to do what was expected of them, and
+to gales, slow progress was made, but the wind had dropped by the
+morning of September 29, and Scott was so anxious to push on that
+he took no notice of a fresh bank of cloud coming up from the
+south, with more wind and drift. Taking the lead himself, he gave
+orders to the two teams to follow rigidly in his wake, whatever
+turns and twists he might make. Notwithstanding the bad light
+he could see the bridged crevasses, where they ran across the
+bare ice surface, by slight differences in shade, and though he
+could not see them where they dived into the valleys, he found
+that the bridges were strong enough to bear. In his desire to use
+the snowy patches as far as possible, the course he took was very
+irregular, and the dogs invariably tried to cut corners. In this
+manner they proceeded for some time, until Scott suddenly heard
+a shout, and looking back saw to his horror that Feather had
+vanished. The dog team and sledges were there all right, but their
+leader was lost to sight. Hurrying back he found that the trace
+had disappeared down a formidable crevasse, but to his great
+relief Feather was at the end of the trace, and was soon hauled
+up. One strand of Feather's harness was cut clean through where
+it fell across the ice-edge, and although, being a man of few
+words, he was more inclined to swear at 'Nigger' for trying to
+cut a corner than to marvel at his own escape, there is no doubt
+that he had a very close call.
+
+After this accident the dog teams were joined, and reluctant
+to give up they advanced again; but very soon the last of the
+four sledges disappeared, and was found hanging vertically up
+and down in an ugly-looking chasm. To the credit of the packing
+not a single thing had come off, in spite of the jerk with which
+it had fallen. It was, however, too heavy to haul up as it was,
+but, after some consultation, the indefatigable Feather proposed
+that he should be let down and undertake the very cold job of
+unpacking it. So he was slung with one end of the Alpine rope,
+while the other was used for hauling up the various packages;
+and at last the load was got up, and the lightened sledge soon
+followed. After this incident they thought it prudent to treat
+these numerous crevasses with more respect, and on proceeding
+they roped themselves together; but although no more mishaps
+occurred, Scott afterwards was more inclined to attribute this
+to good luck than to good judgment. 'Looking back on this day, I
+cannot but think our procedure was extremely rash. I have not the
+least doubt now that this region was a very dangerous one, and
+the fact that we essayed to cross it in this light-hearted fashion
+can only be ascribed to our ignorance. With us, I am afraid, there
+were not a few occasions when one might have applied the proverb
+that "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread."'
+
+The depôt, leaving six weeks' provision for three men and 150 lbs.
+of dog-food, was made on the morning of October 1, and besides
+marking it with a large black flag, Scott was also careful to
+take angles with a prismatic compass to all the points he could
+see. Then they started home, and the dogs knowing at once what
+was meant no longer required any driving. On the homeward march
+the travelers went for all they were worth, and in spite of
+perpetual fog covered eighty-five statute miles in less than
+three days.
+
+On returning to the ship Scott admits that he found it a most
+delightful place. The sense of having done what he wanted to
+do had something to do with this feeling of satisfaction, but
+it was the actual physical comfort after days of privation that
+chiefly affected him. The joy of possessing the sledding appetite
+was sheer delight, and for many days after the travelers returned
+from their sledding-trips, they retained a hunger which it seemed
+impossible to satisfy.
+
+In short Scott, on the night of his return, was very pleased with
+himself and the world in general, but before he went to bed all
+his sense of comfort and peace had gone. For he had discovered
+what Armitage, wishing to give him some hours of unmixed enjoyment,
+had not meant to mention until the following morning, and this
+was that there had been an outbreak of scurvy--the disease that
+has played a particularly important, and often a tragic, part
+in the adventures of Polar travelers, and the seriousness of
+which everyone who has read the history of Polar explorations
+cannot fail to realize.
+
+This outbreak had occurred during Armitage's journey, and when
+he, after much anxiety, had got his men back to the ship, Wilson's
+medical examination proved that Ferrar, Heald and Cross were all
+attacked, while the remainder of the party were not above suspicion.
+
+Very soon, however, symptoms of the disease began to abate, but
+the danger lurking around them was continually in Scott's thoughts,
+and he was determined not to give the dreaded enemy another chance
+to break out.
+
+Everything possible was done to make the ship and everything
+in her sweet and clean, and after a large seal-killing party,
+sent out at Wilson's suggestion, had returned, the order was
+given that no tinned meat of any description should be issued.
+By October 20 this grave disease had to all intents and purposes
+passed away, but although evidence showed that it was caused by
+tinned meats which were to all appearances of the best quality,
+and by apparently fresh mutton taken in small quantities, there
+was no positive proof that these were the causes of the trouble.
+
+This attack of scurvy came as a great surprise to everyone, for
+when the long winter was over and all of them were in good health
+and high spirits, they had naturally congratulated themselves on
+the effectiveness of their precautions. The awakening from this
+pleasant frame of mind was rude, and though the disease vanished
+with astonishing rapidity, it was--quite apart from the benefit
+lost to medical science--very annoying not to be able to say
+definitely from what the evil had sprung.
+
+But although the seriousness of this outbreak was not underrated,
+and every precaution was taken to prevent its recurrence,
+preparations for the various journeys were pushed on with no
+less vigor and enthusiasm. The game to play was that there was
+nothing really to be alarmed about, and everyone played it with
+the greatest success.
+
+Scott's journey to the south had indicated that the main party
+would have to travel directly over the snow-plain at a long distance
+from, and perhaps out of sight of, land; and as in all probability
+no further depôts could be established, it was desirable that this
+party should be supported as far as possible on their route. To
+meet these requirements it was decided that Barne, with a party of
+twelve men, should accompany the dog-team, until the weights were
+reduced to an amount which the dogs could drag without assistance.
+Then Barne was to return to the ship, and after a short rest start
+again with six men, to follow the coast-line west of the Bluff.
+As soon as this was in train, Armitage was to have at his disposal
+all the men and material left in the ship for his attack on the
+western region.
+
+On Friday, October 24, Royds, who had left the ship three weeks
+before with Skelton, Lashly, Evans, Quartley and Wild, returned
+with the good news that he had been able to communicate with the
+'Record' post at Cape Crozier. If a relief ship was going to be
+sent out, Scott now had the satisfaction of knowing that she had
+a good prospect of being guided to the winter quarters of the
+expedition. It was also a great source of satisfaction to find
+that although Royds and his party had left almost immediately
+after the outbreak of scurvy, they had all returned safe and
+with no symptom of the disease.
+
+From the 13th to the 18th this party had been kept in their tents
+by a most persistent blizzard, and before the blizzard ceased
+they were practically buried in the heart of a snowdrift; in
+fact one tent had literally to be dug out before its occupants
+could be got into the open, while the sledges and everything left
+outside were completely buried. As the snow gradually accumulated
+round the tents it became heavier and heavier on every fold of
+canvas, and reduced the interior space to such an extent that
+those inside were obliged to lie with their knees bent double.
+Royds, whose reports were invariably very brief and to the point,
+dismissed the tale of these five days in half a page, but no
+great effort of imagination is needed to grasp the horrible
+discomforts everyone must have endured. And yet when this party
+recounted their adventures on board the ship, the hardships were
+scarcely mentioned, and all that the men seemed to remember were
+the amusing incidents that had happened.
+
+On this journey a colony of Emperor penguins was discovered, and
+among them were several which were nursing chicks. 'I will only
+testify,' Scott says, 'to the joy which greeted this discovery
+on board the ship. We had felt that this penguin was the truest
+type of our region. All other birds fled north when the severity
+of winter descended upon us: the Emperor alone was prepared to
+face the extremest rigors of our climate; and we gathered no
+small satisfaction from being the first to throw light on the
+habits of a creature, which so far surpasses in hardihood all
+others of the feathered tribe.'
+
+Before the end of October everything was prepared for the southern
+journey; every eventuality seemed to be provided for, and as it
+was expected that the dogs would travel faster than the men Barne
+and his party started off on October 30, while the dog team left
+a few days later. 'The supporting party started this morning,
+amidst a scene of much enthusiasm; all hands had a day off, and
+employed it in helping to drag the sledges for several miles...
+Barne's banner floated on the first, the next bore a Union Jack,
+and another carried a flag with a large device stating "No dogs
+needs apply"; the reference was obvious. It was an inspiriting
+sight to see nearly the whole of our small company step out on
+the march with ringing cheers, and to think that all work of this
+kind promised to be done as heartily.'
+
+And then the day that Scott had been so eagerly looking forward
+to arrived, and at ten o'clock on the morning of November 2, he,
+Shackleton and Wilson, amidst the wild cheers of their comrades,
+started on the southern journey. 'Every soul was gathered on
+the floe to bid us farewell, and many were prepared to accompany
+us for the first few miles.' The dogs, as if knowing that a great
+effort was expected of them, had never been in such form, and in
+spite of the heavy load and the fact that at first two men had
+to sit on the sledges to check them, it was as much as the rest
+of the party could do to keep up. By noon the volunteers had all
+tailed off, and the three travelers were alone with the dogs, and
+still breathlessly trying to keep pace with them. Soon afterwards
+they caught sight of a dark spot ahead and later on made this out
+to be the supporting party, who, when they were overtaken on the
+same evening, reported that they had been kept in their tents by
+bad weather. Having relieved them of some of their loads, Scott
+camped, while they pushed on to get the advantage of a night march.
+
+During the next few days the two parties constantly passed and
+re-passed each other, since it was impossible for Scott to push
+on ahead of Barne's party, and the latter's progress was very
+slow, as they could get no hold with their fur boots, and they
+found their ski leather boots dreadfully cold for their feet. To
+add to the slowness of the journey the weather was very unfavorable,
+and the greater parts of the 8th and 9th were entirely wasted by a
+blizzard. On the 10th Depôt A, that had previously been laid, was
+reached and Scott wrote: 'Already it seems to me that the dogs feel
+the monotony of a long march over the snow more than we do; they
+seem easily to get dispirited, and that it is not due to fatigue
+is shown when they catch a glimpse of anything novel.... To-day,
+for instance, they required some driving until they caught sight
+of the depôt flag, when they gave tongue loudly and dashed off as
+though they barely felt the load behind them.'
+
+The names of the dogs were:
+
+  Nigger          Birdie          Wolf
+  Jim             Nell            Vic
+  Spud            Blanco          Bismarck
+  Snatcher        Grannie         Kid
+  Fitzclarence    Lewis           Boss
+  Stripes         Gus             Brownie
+                  Joe
+
+Each of them had his peculiar characteristics, and what the Southern
+party did not already know concerning their individualities, they had
+ample opportunities of finding out in the course of the next few weeks.
+
+Nigger was the leader of the team; a place he chose naturally
+for himself, and if he was put into any other position he behaved
+so unpleasantly to his neighbors, and so generally upset things,
+that he was quickly shifted. A more perfect sledge-dog could
+scarcely be imagined. He seemed to know the meaning of every move,
+and in camp would be still as a graven image until he saw the snow
+being shoveled from the skirting of the tent, when he would spring
+up and pace to and fro at his picket, and give a low throaty bark
+of welcome if anyone approached him. A few minutes later, when
+the leading man came to uproot his picket, he would watch every
+movement, and a slow wagging of the tail quite obviously showed
+his approval: then, as the word came to start, he would push
+affectionately against the leader, as much as to say, 'Now come
+along!' and brace his powerful chest to the harness. At the
+evening halt after a long day he would drop straight in his tracks
+and remain perfectly still, with his magnificent black head resting
+on his paws. Other dogs might clamor for food, but Nigger knew
+perfectly well that the tent had first to be put up. Afterwards,
+however, when the dog-food was approached his deep bell-like note
+could always be distinguished amid the howling chorus, and if
+disturbance was to be avoided it was well to attend to him first
+of all.
+
+Of the other dogs Lewis was noisily affectionate and hopelessly
+clumsy; Jim could pull splendidly when he chose, but he was up
+to all the tricks of the trade and was extraordinarily cunning at
+pretending to pull; Spud was generally considered to be daft;
+Birdie evidently had been treated badly in his youth and remained
+distrustful and suspicious to the end; Kid was the most
+indefatigable worker in the team; Wolf's character possessed no
+redeeming point of any kind, while Brownie though a little too
+genteel for very hard work was charming as a pet, and it may also
+be said of him that he never lost an opportunity of using his
+pleasant appearance and delightful ways to lighten his afflictions.
+The load for this dog team after Depôt A had been passed was 1,850
+lbs., which, considering that some of the dogs were of little
+use, was heavy. But it must not be forgotten that the men also
+expected to pull, and that each night the weight would be reduced
+by thirty or forty pounds. By the 13th the travelers were nearly
+up to the 79th parallel, and therefore farther south than anyone
+had yet been. 'The announcement of the fact caused great jubilation,
+and I am extremely glad that there are no fewer than fifteen
+of us to enjoy this privilege of having broken the record.' A
+photograph of the record-breakers was taken, and then half of the
+supporting party started to return, and the other half stepped
+out once more on a due south line, with the dogs following.
+
+By the 15th, however, when the rest of the supporting party turned
+back, Scott had begun to be anxious about the dogs. 'The day's
+work has cast a shadow on our high aspirations, and already it is
+evident that if we are to achieve much it will be only by extreme
+toil, for the dogs have not pulled well to-day.... We have decided
+that if things have not improved in the morning we will take on
+half a load at a time; after a few days of this sort of thing the
+loads will be sufficiently lightened for us to continue in the old
+way again.'
+
+On the following day an attempt to start with the heavy loads
+promptly and completely failed, and the only thing to do was to
+divide the load into two portions and take half on at a time. This
+meant, of course, that each mile had to be traveled three times,
+but there was no alternative to this tedious form of advance.
+Even, however, with the half-loads the dogs seemed to have lost
+all their spirit, and at the end of the march on the 18th they
+were practically 'done.' Only five geographical miles [Footnote:
+7 geographical miles = a little more than 8 statute miles.] were
+gained on that day, but to do it they had to cover fifteen.
+
+On the night of the 19th matters had gone from bad to worse,
+and it had to be acknowledged that the fish diet the dogs were
+eating permanently disagreed with them. Originally Scott had
+intended to take ordinary dog-biscuits for the animals, but in
+an unlucky moment he was persuaded by an expert in dog-driving
+to take fish. The fish taken was the Norwegian stock-fish, such
+as is split, dried and exported from that country in great
+quantities for human food. But one important point was overlooked,
+namely the probability of the fish being affected on passing
+through the tropics. The lesson, Scott said, was obvious, that
+in future travelers in the south should safeguard their dogs
+as carefully as they do their men, for in this case it was the
+dogs that called the halts; and so the party had to spend hours
+in their tent which might have been devoted to marching.
+
+Day after day relay work continued, the only relief from the
+monotony of their toil being that land was sighted on the 21st,
+and as the prospects of reaching a high latitude were steadily
+disappearing, it was decided to alter their course to S. S. W. and
+edge towards it. Then the surface over which they were traveling
+showed signs of improvement, but the travelers themselves were
+beginning to suffer from blistered noses and cracked lips, and
+their eyes were also troubling them. Appetites, however, were
+increasing by leaps and bounds. 'The only thing to be looked
+to on our long marches is the prospect of the next meal.'
+
+On November 24 a new routine was started which made a little
+variation in the dull toil of relay work. After pushing on the
+first half-load one of the three stopped with it, and got up
+the tent and prepared the meal while the other two brought up
+the second half-load. And then on the following day came one
+of those rewards which was all the sweeter because it had been
+gained by ceaseless and very monotonous toil.
+
+'Before starting to-day I took a meridian altitude,' Scott wrote,
+'and to my delight found the latitude to be 80° 1'. All our charts
+of the Antarctic region show a plain white circle beyond the
+eightieth parallel... It has always been our ambition to get
+inside that white space, and now we are there the space can no
+longer be a blank; this compensates for a lot of trouble.'
+
+A blizzard followed upon this success, but the dogs were so
+exhausted that a day's rest had been thought of even if the weather
+had not compelled it. Wilson, to his great discomfort, was always
+able to foretell these storms, for when they were coming on he
+invariably suffered from rheumatism; so, however reluctant, he
+could not help being a very effective barometer.
+
+After the storm had passed an attempt was made on the morning
+of the 27th to start with the full load, but it took next to no
+time to discover that the dogs had not benefited by their rest,
+and there was nothing to do except to go on with the old routine
+of relay work. As the days passed with no signs of improvement
+in the dogs, it became more and more necessary to reach the land
+in hopes of making a depôt; so the course was laid to the westward
+of S. W., which brought the high black headland, for which they
+were making, on their port bow. 'I imagine it to be about fifty
+miles off, but hope it is not so much; nine hours' work to-day
+has only given us a bare four miles.'
+
+Then for some days the only change in the toil of relay work
+and the sickening task of driving tired dogs on and on was that
+they marched by night, and rested by day. The breakfast hour was
+between 4 and 5 P.M., the start at 6 P.M., and they came to camp
+somewhere between three and four in the morning. Thus they rested
+while the sun was at its greatest height; but although there were
+certainly advantages in this, Scott could not get rid of a curious
+feeling that something was amiss with such a topsy-turvy method of
+procedure.
+
+By December 3 they were close enough to the land to make out
+some of its details. On their right was a magnificent range of
+mountains, which by rough calculations Scott made out to be at
+least fifty miles away. By far the nearest point of land was
+an isolated snow-cape, an immense, and almost dome-shaped,
+snow-covered mass. At first no rock at all could be seen on it,
+but as they got nearer a few patches began to appear. For one
+of these patches they decided to make so that they might establish
+a depôt, but at the rate at which they were traveling there was
+little hope of reaching it for several days.
+
+By this time the appetites of the party were so ravenous that
+when the pemmican bag was slung alongside a tin of paraffin,
+and both smelt and tasted of oil, they did not really mind. But
+what saddened them more than this taste of paraffin was the
+discovery, on December 5, that their oil was going too fast.
+A gallon was to have lasted twelve days, but on investigation
+it was found on an average to have lasted only ten, which meant
+that in the future each gallon would have to last a fortnight.
+'This is a distinct blow, as we shall have to sacrifice our hot
+luncheon meal and to economize greatly at both the others. We
+started the new routine to-night, and for lunch ate some frozen
+seal-meat and our allowance of sugar and biscuit.'
+
+It was perhaps fortunate that their discovery about the oil was
+not delayed any longer, but nevertheless it came at a time when
+the outlook was dreary and dispiriting enough without additional
+discomforts. On the 6th Spud gnawed through his trace, and when
+Scott went outside before breakfast, one glance at the dog's
+balloon-like appearance was enough to show how he had spent his
+hours of freedom. He had, in fact, eaten quite a week's allowance
+of the precious seal-meat, and though rather somnolent after his
+gorge, he did not seem to be suffering any particular discomfort
+from the enormous increase of his waist. On the next day there was
+a blizzard, duly predicted by Wilson's twinges of rheumatism, and
+on the 8th Scott reluctantly records that the dogs were steadily
+going downhill. 'The lightening of the load is more than
+counter-balanced by the weakening of the animals, and I can see
+no time in which we can hope to get the sledges along without
+pulling ourselves.'
+
+By the 10th they were within ten or twelve miles of the coast,
+but so exhausted that they felt no certainty of reaching it; and
+even supposing they did get there and make a depôt, they doubted
+very much if they would be in any condition to go on. One dog,
+Snatcher, was already dead, and some of the others had only been
+got to move with the second load by the ignominious device of
+carrying food in front of them. To see the dogs suffering was
+agony to those who had to drive and coax them on, and though
+Scott refers often in these days to the hunger that was nipping
+him, no one can read his diary without seeing how infinitely
+more he was concerned over the suffering of the dogs than about
+his own troubles. 'It is terrible,' he says, 'to see them.'
+
+At last, on December 14, they arrived, when they were almost
+spent, at a place where dog-food could be left. In their march
+they had only managed to do two miles after the most strenuous
+exertions, for the snow became softer as they approached the
+land, and the sledge-runners sank from three to four inches.
+On any particularly soft patch they could do little more than
+mark time, and even to advance a yard was an achievement.
+
+No wonder that Scott, after they had left three weeks' provisions
+and a quantity of dog-food in Depôt B and had resumed their march,
+sounded a note of thankfulness: 'As I write I scarcely know how
+to describe the blessed relief it is to be free from our relay
+work. For one-and-thirty awful days we have been at it, and whilst
+I doubt if our human endurance could have stood it much more,
+I am quite sure the dogs could not. It seems now like a nightmare,
+which grew more terrible towards its end.' The sense of relief
+was, however, not destined to last, for on December 21 the dogs
+were in such a hopeless condition that they might at any moment
+have completely collapsed. This was a fact that had to be faced,
+and the question whether under such circumstances it was wise
+to push on had to be asked and answered. The unanimous answer
+was that the risk of going on should be taken, but on that same
+night Wilson, in view of future plans, reported to Scott that
+his medical examinations revealed that Shackleton had decidedly
+angry-looking gums, and that for some time they had been slowly
+but surely getting worse. It was decided not to tell Shackleton
+of these symptoms of scurvy, and as the bacon they were using
+seemed likely to be the cause of them, it was discarded and an
+increased allowance of seal given in its place. This was a loss
+in weight which was serious, for already they were reduced almost
+to starvation rations of about a pound and a half a day.
+
+Supper was the best meal, for then they had a hoosh which ran
+from between three-quarters to a whole pannikin apiece, but even
+this they could not afford to make thick. While it was being
+heated in the central cooker, cocoa was made in the outer, but
+the lamp was turned out directly the hoosh boiled, and by that
+time the chill was barely off the contents of the outer cooker.
+Of course the cocoa was not properly dissolved, but they were
+long past criticizing the quality of their food. All they wanted
+was something to 'fill up,' but needless to say they never got
+it. Half an hour after supper was over they were as hungry as ever.
+
+When they had started from the ship, there had been a vague idea
+that they could go as they pleased with the food, but experience
+showed that this would not do, and that there must be a rigid
+system of shares. Consequently they used to take it in turn to
+divide things into three equal portions, and as the man who made
+the division felt called upon to take the smallest share, the
+game of 'shut-eye' was invented to stop all arguments and
+remonstrances. The shares were divided as equally as possible
+by someone, then one of the other two turned his head away and
+the divider pointed to a portion and said, 'Whose is this?' He
+of the averted head named the owner, and thus this simple but
+useful game was played.
+
+Wilson's examination of Shackleton on December 24 was not
+encouraging, but they had reached a much harder surface and under
+those conditions Scott and Wilson agreed that it was not yet
+time to say 'Turn.' Besides, Christmas Day was in front of them,
+and for a week they had all agreed that it would be a crime to
+go to bed hungry on that night. In fact they meant it to be a
+wonderful day, and everything conspired to make it so.
+
+The sun shone gloriously from a clear sky, and not a breath of
+wind disturbed the calmness of the morning, but entrancing as
+the scene was they did not stay to contemplate it, because for
+once they were going to have a really substantial breakfast,
+and this was an irresistible counter-attraction.
+
+And afterwards, when they felt more internally comfortable than
+they had for weeks, the surface continued to be so much better
+that the sledges could be pulled without any help from the dogs.
+On that day they had the satisfaction of covering nearly eleven
+miles, the longest march they had made for a long time. So when
+camp was pitched they were thoroughly pleased with the day, and
+ready to finish it off with a supper to be remembered. A double
+'whack' of everything was poured into the cooking-pot, and in
+the hoosh that followed a spoon would stand without any support,
+and the cocoa was also brought to boiling-point.
+
+'I am writing,' Scott says, 'over my second pipe. The sun is
+still circling our small tent in a cloudless sky, the air is
+warm and quiet. All is pleasant without, and within we have a
+sense of comfort we have not known for many a day; we shall sleep
+well tonight--no dreams, no tightening of the belt.
+
+'We have been chattering away gaily, and not once has the
+conversation turned to food. We have been wondering what Christmas
+is like in England... and how our friends picture us. They will
+guess that we are away on our sledge journey, and will perhaps
+think of us on plains of snow; but few, I think, will imagine the
+truth, that for us this has been the reddest of all red-letter days.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE RETURN
+
+        How many weary steps
+  Of many weary miles you have o'ergone,
+  Are numbered to the travel of one mile.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+Some days passed before the pleasing effects of Christmas Day
+wore off, for it had been a delightful break in an otherwise
+uninterrupted spell of semi-starvation, and the memories lingered
+long after hunger had again gripped the three travelers. By this
+time they knew that they had cut themselves too short in the
+matter of food, but the only possible alteration that could now
+be made in their arrangements was to curtail their journey, and
+rather than do that they were ready cheerfully to face the distress
+of having an enormous appetite, and very little with which to
+appease it.
+
+Thinking over the homeward marches after he had returned to the
+ship, Scott expresses his emphatic opinion that the increasing
+weariness showed that they were expending their energies at a
+greater rate than they could renew them, and that the additional
+weight, caused by carrying a proper allowance of food, would
+have been amply repaid by the preservation of their full strength
+and vigor.
+
+Apart, however, from the actual pangs of hunger, there was another
+disadvantage from this lack of food, for try as they would it
+was impossible not to think and talk incessantly of eating. Before
+they went to sleep it was almost certain that one of them would
+give a detailed description of what he considered an ideal feast,
+while on the march they found themselves counting how many footsteps
+went to the minute, and how many, therefore, had to be paced
+before another meal.
+
+But if, during these days of hunger, thoughts of what they could
+eat if only the chance was given to them kept constantly cropping
+up, there were also very real compensations for both their mental
+and physical weariness. Day by day, as they journeyed on, they
+knew that they were penetrating farther and farther into the
+unknown. Each footstep was a gain, and made the result of their
+labors more assured. And as they studied the slowly revolving
+sledge-meter or looked for the calculated results of their
+observations, it is not surprising that above all the desires
+for food was an irresistible eagerness to go on and on, and to
+extend the line which they were now drawing on the white space
+of the Antarctic chart.
+
+Day by day, too, the magnificent panorama of the Western land
+was passing before their eyes. 'Rarely a march passed without
+the disclosure of some new feature, something on which the eye
+of man had never rested; we should have been poor souls indeed
+had we not been elated at the privilege of being the first to
+gaze on these splendid scenes.'
+
+From the point of view of further exploration their position
+on December 26 was not very hopeful. On their right lay a high
+undulating snow-cap and the steep irregular coast-line, to the
+south lay a cape beyond which they could not hope to pass, and
+to all appearances these conditions were likely to remain to
+the end of their journey. But on that night they had christened
+a distant and lofty peak 'Mount Longstaff,' in honor of the man
+whose generosity had alone made the expedition possible, and
+although they thought that this was the most southerly land to
+which they would be able to give a name, they were in no mood
+to turn back because the outlook was unpromising. Arguing on
+the principle that it was impossible to tell what may turn up,
+they all decided to push on; and their decision was wise, for
+had they returned at that point one of the most important features
+of the whole coast-line would have been missed.
+
+On the 26th and 27th Wilson had a very bad attack of snow-blindness,
+which caused him the most intense agony. Some days before Scott
+had remarked in his diary upon Wilson's extraordinary industry:
+'When it is fine and clear, at the end of our fatiguing days
+he will spend two or three hours seated in the door of the tent
+sketching each detail of the splendid mountainous coast-scene
+to the west. His sketches are most astonishingly accurate; I
+have tested his proportions by actual angular measurements and
+found them correct.... But these long hours in the glare are
+very bad for the eyes; we have all suffered a good deal from
+snow-blindness of late, though we generally march with goggles,
+but Wilson gets the worst bouts, and I fear it is mainly due
+to his sketching.'
+
+The attack, however, after Christmas was very much worse than
+anything that had gone before, and all day long during the 27th
+Wilson was pulling alongside the sledges with his eyes completely
+covered. To march blindfold with an empty stomach must touch
+the bottom of miserable monotony, but Wilson had not the smallest
+intention of giving in. With Scott walking opposite to him and
+telling him of the changes that were happening around them he
+plodded steadily on, and during the afternoon of the 27th it
+happened that a most glorious mountainous scene gradually revealed
+itself. With some excitement Scott noticed that new mountain
+ridges were appearing as high as anything they had seen to the
+north, and his excitement increased when these ridges grew higher
+and higher. Then, instead of a downward turn in the distant outline
+came a steep upward line, and as they pressed on apace to see
+what would happen next, Scott did his best to keep Wilson posted
+up in the latest details. The end came in a gloriously sharp
+double peak crowned with a few flecks of cirrus cloud, and all
+they could think of in camp that night was this splendid twin-peaked
+mountain, which even in such a lofty country looked like a giant
+among pigmies. 'At last we have found something which is fitting
+to bear the name of him whom we must always the most delight
+to honor, and "Mount Markham" it shall be called in memory of
+the father of the expedition.'
+
+Wilson, in spite of his recent experiences, did not mean to miss
+this, and however much his eyes had to suffer the scene had to
+be sketched. Fortunately a glorious evening provided a perfect
+view of their surroundings, for very soon they knew that the
+limit of their journey would be reached, and that they would
+have but few more opportunities to increase their stock of
+information.
+
+After a day that had brought with it both fine weather and most
+interesting discoveries, they settled down in their sleeping-bags,
+full of hope that the morrow would be equally kind. But instead
+of the proposed advance the whole day had to be spent in the
+tent while a strong southerly blizzard raged without, and when
+they got up on the following morning they found themselves enveloped
+in a thick fog.
+
+Reluctantly the decision was made that this camp must be their
+last, and consequently their southerly limit had been reached.
+Observations gave it as between 82.16 S. and 82.17 S., and though
+this record may have compared poorly with what Scott had hoped
+for when leaving the ship, it was far more favorable than he
+anticipated when the dogs had begun to fail. 'Whilst,' he says,
+'one cannot help a deep sense of disappointment in reflecting
+on the "might have been" had our team remained in good health,
+one cannot but remember that even as it is we have made a greater
+advance towards a pole of the earth than has ever yet been achieved
+by a sledge party.'
+
+With less than a fortnight's provision to take them back to Depôt
+B, they turned their faces homewards on the last day of the year,
+and it was significant of the terrible condition of the surviving
+dogs that the turn did not cause the smallest excitement. Many
+of them were already dead, killed to keep the others alive, but
+those which remained seemed to guess how poor a chance they had
+of getting back to the ship. Again and again Scott refers to
+the suffering of the dogs on the homeward march, and how intensely
+he felt for them is proved beyond all manner of doubt. 'January
+3. This afternoon, shortly after starting, "Gus" fell, quite
+played out, and just before our halt, to our greater grief, "Kid"
+caved in. One could almost weep over this last case; he has pulled
+like a Trojan throughout, and his stout little heart bore him
+up till his legs failed beneath him.' Only seven of the team
+now remained, and of them Jim seemed to be the strongest, but
+Nigger, though weak, was still capable of surprising efforts. But
+at the end of a week on the return journey, all of the remaining
+dogs were asked to do nothing except walk by the sledges.
+
+For several hours on January 7 the men pulled steadily and covered
+ten good miles. But the distance they succeeded in traveling
+was as nothing compared with the relief they felt at no longer
+having to drive a worn-out team. In the future no more cheering
+and dragging in front would be needed, no more tangled traces
+would have to be put straight, and above all there would be no
+more whip. So far steady though rather slow progress had been
+made, but January 8 brought an unpleasant surprise. Try as they
+would the sledge could scarcely be made to move, and after three
+hours of the hardest work only a mile and a quarter had been
+gained. Sadly they were compelled to admit that the surface had
+so completely changed that the only thing to do was to remain
+in camp until it improved. But whether it would improve was an
+anxious matter, for they had less than a week's provisions and
+were at least fifty miles from Depôt B.
+
+The next day, however, saw an improvement in the surface, and
+a fairly good march was done. By this time only four dogs were
+left, Nigger, Jim, Birdie and Lewis, and poor Nigger was so lost
+out of harness that he sometimes got close to the traces and
+marched along as if he was still doing his share of the pulling.
+But this more or less ordinary day was followed on the 10th by
+a march in a blizzard that exhausted Scott and Wilson, and had
+even a more serious effect upon Shackleton. With the wind behind
+them they had gained many miles, but the march had tired them
+out, because instead of the steady pulling to which they were
+accustomed they had been compelled sometimes to run, and sometimes
+to pull forwards, backwards, sideways, and always with their
+senses keenly alert and their muscles strung up for instant action.
+
+On that night Scott in no very cheerful frame of mind wrote:
+'We cannot now be far from our depôt, but then we do not exactly
+know where we are; there is not many days' food left, and if
+this thick weather continues we shall probably not be able to
+find it.' And after two more days of bad surface and thick weather
+he wrote again: 'There is no doubt we are approaching a very
+critical time. The depôt is a very small spot on a very big ocean
+of snow; with luck one might see it at a mile and a half or two
+miles, and fortune may direct our course within this radius of
+it; but, on the other hand, it is impossible not to contemplate
+the ease with which such a small spot can be missed.... The annoying
+thing is that one good clear sight of the land would solve all
+our difficulties.'
+
+At noon on January 13 the outlook was more hopeless than ever.
+Three hours' incessant labor had gained only three-quarters of
+a mile, and consequently they had to halt though their food-bag
+was a mere trifle to lift, and they could have finished all that
+remained in it at one sitting and still have been hungry. But
+later on Scott caught a glimpse of the sun in the tent, and
+tumbled hastily out of his sleeping-bag in the hope of obtaining
+a meridional altitude; and after getting the very best result
+he could under the very difficult conditions prevailing, he casually
+lowered the telescope and swept it round the horizon. Suddenly
+a speck seemed to flash by, and a vehement hope as suddenly arose.
+Then he brought the telescope slowly back, and there it was again,
+and accompanied this time by two smaller specks on either side
+of it. Without a shadow of doubt it was the depôt which meant
+the means of life to them. 'I sprang up and shouted, "Boys, there's
+the depôt." We are not a demonstrative party, but I think we
+excused ourselves for the wild cheer that greeted this announcement.'
+
+In five minutes everything was packed on the sledges, but though
+the work was as heavy as before the workers were in a very different
+mood to tackle it. To reach those distant specks as quickly as
+possible was their one desire and all minor troubles were forgotten
+as they marched, for before them was the knowledge that they
+were going to have the fat hoosh which would once more give them
+an internal sense of comfort. In two hours they were at the depôt,
+and there they found everything as they had left it.
+
+On that same morning they had stripped off the German silver
+from the runners of one of their sledges, and now fortified by
+the fat hoosh of their dreams they completed the comparison between
+the two sledges, which respectively had metal and wood runners.
+Having equalized the weights as much as possible they towed the
+sledges round singly, and found that two of them could scarcely
+move the metalled sledge as fast as one could drag the other.
+
+Of course they decided to strip the second sledge, and with only
+about 130 miles to cover to their next depôt, a full three weeks'
+provisions, and the prospect of better traveling on wood runners,
+they went to bed feeling that a heavy load of anxiety had been
+lifted. The chief cause of worry left was the question of health,
+and the result of a thorough medical examination on the morning
+of the 14th did nothing to remove this. Shackleton was found
+to be very far indeed from well, but although Scott and Wilson
+both showed symptoms of scurvy they still felt that, as far as
+they were concerned, there was no danger of a breakdown.
+
+On that day they made a fairly good march, but at the end of
+it Wilson had to warn Scott that Shackleton's condition was really
+alarming. Commenting on this Scott wrote: 'It's a bad case, but
+we must make the best of it and trust to its not getting worse;
+now that human life is at stake, all other objects must be
+sacrificed.... It went to my heart to give the order, but it
+had to be done, and the dogs are to be killed in the morning.
+
+'One of the difficulties we foresee with Shackleton, with his
+restless, energetic spirit, is to keep him idle in camp, so to-night
+I have talked seriously to him. He is not to do any camping work,
+but to allow everything to be done for him.... Every effort must
+be devoted to keeping him on his legs, and we must trust to luck
+to bring him through.'
+
+With the morning of the 15th came the last scene in the tragic
+story of the dogs, and poor Nigger and Jim, the only survivors
+of that team of nineteen, were taken a short distance from the
+camp and killed. 'I think we could all have wept.... Through
+our most troublous time we always looked forward to getting some
+of our animals home. At first it was to have been nine, then
+seven, then five, and at the last we thought that surely we should
+be able to bring back these two.'
+
+During the part of the return journey which was now beginning,
+they had promised themselves an easier time, but instead of that
+it resolved itself into days of grim struggle to save a sick
+companion. The weather also added to their troubles, because
+it was so overcast that steering was extremely difficult. For
+nearly ten consecutive days this gloomy weather continued to
+harass them, but on the 20th it cleared as they were on their
+march, and on the following day with a brisk southerly breeze
+and their sail set they traveled along at a fine rate. The state
+of Shackleton's health was still a source of acutest anxiety,
+but each march brought safety nearer and nearer, and on the 23rd
+Scott was able to write in a much more hopeful spirit. Next day
+a glimpse of the Bluff to the north was seen, but this encouraging
+sight was accompanied by a new form of surface which made the
+pulling very wearisome. An inch or so beneath the soft snow surface
+was a thin crust, almost, but not quite, sufficient to bear their
+weight. The work of breaking such a surface as this would, Scott
+says, have finished Shackleton in no time, but luckily he was
+able to go on ski and avoid the jars. 'In spite of our present
+disbelief in ski, one is bound to confess that if we get back
+safely Shackleton will owe much to the pair he is now using.'
+
+[Illustration: Mount Erebus.]
+
+But in spite of bad surfaces and increasingly heavy work, Scott
+and Wilson were determined to leave as little as possible to
+chance, and to get their invalid along as quickly as his condition
+would allow. Directly breakfast was over Shackleton started off
+and got well ahead, while Scott and Wilson packed up camp; and
+after lunch the same procedure was adopted. By this means he
+was able to take things easily, and though eager to do his share
+of the work he was wise enough to see that every precaution taken
+was absolutely necessary.
+
+Encouragements in this stern struggle were few and far between,
+but when the smoke of Erebus was seen on the 25th, it cheered
+them to think that they had seen something that was actually
+beyond the ship. Probably it was more than a hundred miles away,
+but they had become so accustomed to seeing things at a distance
+that they were not in the least astonished by this.
+
+January 26, too, had its consolations, for while plodding on
+as usual the travelers suddenly saw a white line ahead, and soon
+afterwards discovered that it was a sledge track. There was no
+doubt that the track was Barne's on his way back from his survey
+work to the west, but it was wonderful what that track told them.
+They could see that there had been six men with two sledges,
+and that all of the former had been going strong and well on
+ski. From the state of the track this party had evidently passed
+about four days before on the homeward route, and from the
+zig-zagging of the course it was agreed that the weather must
+have been thick at the time. Every imprint in the soft snow added
+some small fact, and the whole made an excellent detective study.
+But the main point was that they knew for certain that Barne
+and his party were safe, and this after their own experiences
+was a great relief.
+
+Another day and a half of labor brought them to the depôt, and
+the land of plenty. 'Directly,' Scott wrote on the 28th, 'our tent
+was up we started our search among the snow-heaps with childish
+glee. One after another our treasures were brought forth: oil
+enough for the most lavish expenditure, biscuit that might have
+lasted us for a month, and, finally, a large brown provision-bag
+which we knew would contain more than food alone. We have just
+opened this provision-bag and feasted our eyes on the contents.
+There are two tins of sardines, a large tin of marmalade, soup
+squares, pea soup, and many other delights that already make
+our mouths water. For each one of us there is some special trifle
+which the forethought of our kind people has provided, mine being
+an extra packet of tobacco; and last, but not least, there are
+a whole heap of folded letters and notes--billets-doux indeed.
+I wonder if a mail was ever more acceptable.'
+
+The news, too, was good; Royds, after desperate labor, had succeeded
+in rescuing the boats; Blissett had discovered an Emperor penguin's
+egg, and his messmates expected him to be knighted. But the meal
+itself, though 'pure joy' at first, was not an unqualified success,
+for after being accustomed to starvation or semi-starvation rations,
+they were in no condition either to resist or to digest any unstinted
+meal, and both Scott and Wilson suffered acutely.
+
+On the next morning they awoke to find a heavy blizzard, and
+the first thought of pushing on at all hazards was abandoned
+when Shackleton was found to be extremely ill. Everything now
+depended upon the weather, for should the blizzard continue Scott
+doubted if Shackleton would even be well enough to be carried
+on the sledge. 'It is a great disappointment; last night we thought
+ourselves out of the wood with all our troubles behind us, and
+to-night matters seem worse than ever. Luckily Wilson and I are
+pretty fit, and we have lots of food.' By great luck the weather
+cleared on the morning of the 30th, and as Shackleton after a
+very bad night revived a little it was felt that the only chance
+was to go on. 'At last he was got away, and we watched him almost
+tottering along with frequent painful halts. Re-sorting our
+provisions, in half an hour we had packed our camp, set our sail,
+and started with the sledges. It was not long before we caught
+our invalid, who was so exhausted that we thought it wiser he
+should sit on the sledges, where for the remainder of the forenoon,
+with the help of our sail, we carried him.'
+
+In Wilson's opinion Shackleton's relapse was mainly due to the
+blizzard, but fortune favored them during the last stages of the
+struggle homewards, and the glorious weather had a wonderful
+effect upon the sick man. By the night of February 2 they were
+within ten or twelve miles of their goal, and saw a prospect of
+a successful end to their troubles. During the afternoon they
+had passed round the corner of White Island, and as they did
+so the old familiar outline of the friendly peninsula suddenly
+opened up before them. On every side were suggestions of home,
+and their joy at seeing the well-known landmarks was increased
+by the fact that they were as nearly 'spent as three persons
+can well be.'
+
+Shackleton, it is true, had lately shown an improvement, but his
+companions placed but little confidence in that, for they knew
+how near he had been, and still was, to a total collapse. And
+both Scott and Wilson knew also that their scurvy had again been
+advancing rapidly, but they scarcely dared to admit either to
+themselves or each other how 'done' they were. For many a day
+Wilson had suffered from lameness, and each morning had vainly
+tried to disguise his limp, but from his set face Scott knew
+well enough how much he suffered before the first stiffness wore
+off. 'As for myself, for some time I have hurried through the
+task of changing my foot-gear in an attempt to forget that my
+ankles are considerably swollen. One and all we want rest and
+peace, and, all being well, tomorrow, thank Heaven, we shall get
+them.'
+
+These are the final words written in Scott's sledge-diary during
+this remarkable journey, for on the next morning they packed up
+their camp for the last time and set their faces towards Observation
+Hill. Brilliant weather still continued, and after plodding on for
+some hours two specks appeared, which at first were thought to be
+penguins, but presently were seen to be men hurrying towards them.
+Early in the morning they had been reported by watchers on the
+hills, and Skelton and Bernacchi had hastened out to meet them.
+
+Then the tent was put up, and while cocoa was made they listened
+to a ceaseless stream of news, for not only had all the other
+travelers returned safe and sound with many a tale to tell, but
+the relief ship, the Morning, had also arrived and brought a
+whole year's news.
+
+So during their last lunch and during the easy march that followed,
+they, gradually heard of the events in the civilized world from
+December, 1901, to December, 1902, and these kept their thoughts
+busy until they rounded the cape and once more saw their beloved
+ship.
+
+Though still held fast in her icy prison the Discovery looked
+trim and neat, and to mark the especial nature of the occasion
+a brave display of bunting floated gently in the breeze, while
+as they approached, the side and the rigging were thronged with
+their cheering comrades.
+
+With every want forestalled, and every trouble lifted from their
+shoulders by companions vying with one another to attend to them,
+no welcome could have been more delightful, and yet at the time
+it appeared unreal to their dull senses. 'It seemed too good to
+be true that all our anxieties had so completely ended, and that
+rest for brain and limb was ours at last.' For ninety-three days
+they had plodded over a vast snow-field and slept beneath the
+fluttering canvas of a tent; during that time they had covered
+960 statute miles; and if the great results hoped for in the
+beginning had not been completely achieved, they knew at any
+rate that they had striven and endured to the limit of their
+powers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+A SECOND WINTER
+
+  As cold waters to a thirsty soul,
+  So is good news from a far country.
+  --PROVERBS.
+
+In a very short time Scott discovered that the sledding resources
+of the ship had been used to their fullest extent during his
+absence, and that parties had been going and coming and ever
+adding to the collection of knowledge.
+
+On November 2 Royds had gone again to Cape Crozier to see how
+the Emperor penguins were faring, and in the meantime such rapid
+progress had been made in the preparations for the western party
+that November 9, being King Edward's birthday, was proclaimed a
+general holiday and given up to the eagerly anticipated athletic
+sports.
+
+Of all the events perhaps the keenest interest was shown in the
+toboggan race, for which the men entered in pairs. Each couple
+had to provide their own toboggan, subject to the rule that no
+sledge, or part of a sledge, and no ski should be used. The start
+was high up the hillside, and as the time for it approached the
+queerest lot of toboggans gradually collected. The greater number
+were roughly made from old boxes and cask staves, but something
+of a sensation was caused when the canny Scottish carpenter's mate
+arrived with a far more pretentious article, though built from
+the same material. In secret he had devoted himself to making what
+was really a very passable sledge, and when he and his companion
+secured themselves to this dark horse, the result of the race
+was considered a foregone conclusion. But soon after the start
+it was seen that this couple had labored in vain; for although
+they shot ahead at first, their speed was so great that they
+could not control their machine. In a moment they were rolling
+head-over-heels in clouds of snow, and while the hare was thus
+amusing itself a tortoise slid past and won the race.
+
+By the end of November everything was ready for the western journey,
+and a formidable party set out on the 29th to cross McMurdo Sound
+and attack the mainland. In Armitage's own party were Skelton
+and ten men, while the supports consisted of Koettlitz, Ferrar,
+Dellbridge and six men. Excellent pioneer work was done by Armitage
+and his party during their seven weeks' journey. Without a doubt
+a practicable road to the interior was discovered and traversed,
+and the barrier of mountains that had seemed so formidable an
+obstruction from the ship was conquered. It was equally certain
+that the party could claim to be the first to set foot on the
+interior of Victoria Land but they had been forced to turn back
+at an extremely interesting point, and in consequence were unable
+to supply very definite information with regard to the ice-cap.
+They had, however, fulfilled their main object, and in doing so
+had disclosed problems that caused the deepest interest to be
+focussed upon the direction in which they had traveled.
+
+Perhaps the most promising circumstance of all was that among
+the rock specimens brought back were fragments of quartz-grits.
+These, with other observations, showed the strong probability
+of the existence of sedimentary deposits which might be reached
+and examined, and which alone could serve to reveal the geological
+history of this great southern continent. At all hazards Scott
+determined that the geologist of the expedition must be given
+a chance to explore this most interesting region.
+
+The extensive preparations for the western journey had practically
+stripped the ship of sledge equipment, and those who went out on
+shorter journeys were obliged to make the best of the little that
+remained. This did not, however, balk their energies, and by
+resorting to all kinds of shifts and devices they made many useful
+expeditions.
+
+While these efforts at exploration were being carried out the
+ship was left in the charge of Royds, who employed everyone on
+board in the most important task of freeing the boats. Drastic
+measures had to be taken before they could be released from their
+beds of ice, and with sawing and blasting going on in the unseen
+depths, it was not possible that the task could be accomplished
+without doing considerable damage. When at length all of them
+had been brought to the surface their condition was exceedingly
+dilapidated; indeed only two of them were in a condition to float;
+but although it was evident that the carpenter would be busy for
+many weeks before they would be seaworthy, their reappearance was
+a tremendous relief.
+
+Long before his departure to the south, Scott had given instructions
+that the Discovery should be prepared for sea by the end of
+January. Consequently, after the boats had been freed, there was
+still plenty of employment for everybody, since 'preparations for
+sea' under such circumstances meant a most prodigious amount of
+labor. Tons and tons of snow had to be dug out from the deck with
+pick-axes and shoveled over the side; aloft, sails and ropes had
+to be looked to, the running-gear to be re-rove, and everything
+got ready for handling the ship under sail; many things that
+had been displaced or landed near the shore-station had to be
+brought on board and secured in position; thirty tons of ice
+had to be fetched, melted, and run into the boilers; below,
+steam-pipes had to be rejointed, glands re-packed, engines turned
+by hand, and steam raised to see that all was in working order.
+
+Not doubting that the ice would soon break up and release the ship,
+this work was carried on so vigorously that when the southern
+travelers returned all was ready for them to put to sea again.
+
+But eleven days before Scott and his companions struggled back
+to safety the great event of the season had happened in the arrival
+of the Morning. How the funds were raised by means of which this
+ship was sent is a tale in itself; briefly, however, it was due to
+the untiring zeal and singleness of purpose shown by Sir Clements
+Markham that the Morning, commanded by Lieutenant William Colbeck,
+R.N.R., was able to leave the London Docks on July 9, 1902.
+
+Long before the Discovery had left New Zealand the idea of a
+relief ship had been discussed, and although Scott saw great
+difficulties in the way, he also felt quite confident that if
+the thing was to be done Sir Clements was the man to do it.
+Obviously then it was desirable to leave as much information
+as possible on the track, and the relief ship was to try and
+pick up clues at the places where Scott had said that he would
+attempt to leave them. These places were Cape Adare, Possession
+Islands, Coulman Island, Wood Bay, Franklin Island and Cape
+Crozier.
+
+On January 8 a landing was effected at Cape Adare, and there
+Colbeck heard of the Discovery's safe arrival in the south. The
+Possession Islands were drawn blank, because Scott had not been
+able to land there, and south of this the whole coast was so
+thickly packed that the Morning could not approach either Coulman
+Island or Wood Bay.
+
+Franklin Island was visited on January 14, but without result;
+and owing to the quantities of pack ice it was not until four days
+later that a landing was made at Cape Crozier. Colbeck himself
+joined the landing party, and after spending several hours in
+fruitless search, he was just giving up the hunt and beginning
+despondently to wonder what he had better do next, when suddenly
+a small post was seen on the horizon. A rush was made for it,
+and in a few minutes Colbeck knew that he had only to steer into
+the mysterious depths of McMurdo Sound to find the Discovery,
+and practically to accomplish the work he had set out to do.
+
+On board the Discovery the idea had steadily grown that a relief
+ship would come. For no very clear reason the men had begun to look
+upon it as a certainty, and during the latter part of January it
+was not uncommon for wild rumors to be spread that smoke had been
+seen to the north. Such reports, therefore, were generally received
+without much excitement, but when a messenger ran down the hill
+on the night of the 23rd to say that there was actually a ship
+in sight the enthusiasm was intense. Only the most imperturbable
+of those on board could sleep much during that night, and early
+on the 24th a large party set out over the floe. The Morning was
+lying some ten miles north of the Discovery, but it was far easier
+to see her than to reach her. At last, however, the party, after
+various little adventures, stood safely on deck and received the
+warmest of welcomes.
+
+During the last week of January the weather was in its most glorious
+mood, and with some of the treacherous thin ice breaking away the
+Morning was able to get a mile nearer. Parties constantly passed
+to and fro between the two ships, and everyone--with unshaken
+confidence that the Discovery would soon be free--gave themselves
+up to the delight of fresh companionship, and the joy of good news
+from the home country. To this scene of festivity and cheeriness
+Scott, Wilson and Shackleton returned on February 3, and though
+the last to open their letters they had the satisfaction of knowing
+that the Morning had brought nothing but good news.
+
+By a curious coincidence Colbeck chose the night of the Southern
+party's return to make his first visit to the Discovery, and
+soon after Scott had come out of his delicious bath and was reveling
+in the delight of clean clothes, he had the pleasure of welcoming
+him on board. 'In those last weary marches over the barrier,'
+Scott says, 'I had little expected that the first feast in our
+home quarters would be taken with strange faces gathered round
+our festive table, but so it was, and I can well remember the
+look of astonishment that dawned on those faces when we gradually
+displayed our power of absorbing food.'
+
+But however difficult the appetites of the party were to appease,
+for a fortnight after they had reached the ship their condition
+was very wretched. Shackleton at once went to bed, and although
+he soon tried to be out and about again, the least exertion caused
+a return of his breathlessness, and he still suffered from the
+violent fits of coughing that had troubled him so much on the
+journey. With Wilson, who at one time had shown the least signs
+of scurvy, the disease had increased so rapidly at the end that
+on his return he wisely decided to go to bed, where he remained
+quietly for ten days. 'Wilson,' Scott wrote on February 16, 'is
+a very fine fellow, his pluck and go were everything on our southern
+journey; one felt he wouldn't give in till he dropped.' And this
+collapse when he got back to the ship was in itself a proof of the
+determination which must have upheld him during the last marches.
+
+Scott, though the least affected of the three, was also by no
+means fit and well. Both his legs were swollen and his gums were
+very uncomfortable, but in addition to these troubles he was
+attacked by an overwhelming feeling of both physical and mental
+weariness. 'Many days passed,' he says, 'before I could rouse
+myself from this slothful humour, and it was many weeks before
+I had returned to a normally vigorous condition. It was probably
+this exceptionally relaxed state of health that made me so slow
+to realize that the ice conditions were very different from what
+they had been in the previous season.... The prospect of the
+ice about us remaining fast throughout the season never once
+entered my head.' His diary, however, for the month shows how he
+gradually awakened to the true state of affairs, and on February
+13 he decided to begin the transport of stores from the Morning
+to the Discovery, so that the former ship 'should run no risk
+of being detained.' And on the 18th when he paid his first visit
+to the Morning and found the journey 'an awful grind,' he had
+begun to wonder whether the floe was ever going to break up.
+
+A week later he was clearly alive to the situation. 'The Morning
+must go in less than a week, and it seems now impossible that
+we shall be free by that time, though I still hope the break-up
+may come after she has departed.' Some time previously he had
+decided that if they had to remain the ship's company should
+be reduced, and on the 24th he had a talk with the men and told
+them that he wished nobody to stop on board who was not willing.
+On the following day a list was sent round for the names of those
+who wanted to go, and the result was curiously satisfactory--for
+Scott had determined that eight men should go, and not only were
+there eight names on the list, but they were also precisely those
+which Scott would have put there had he made the selection.
+Shackleton also had to be told that he must go, as in his state
+of health Scott did not think that any further hardships ought
+to be risked; but in his place Scott requisitioned Mulock who
+by an extraordinary chance is just the very man we wanted. We
+have now an immense amount of details for charts... and Mulock
+is excellent at this work and as keen as possible. It is rather
+amusing, as he is the only person who is obviously longing for
+the ice to stop in, though of course he doesn't say so. The other
+sporting characters are still giving ten to one that it will go
+out, but I am bound to confess that I am not sanguine.'
+
+The letter from which the last extract is taken was begun on
+February 16, and before the end of the month all hope of the
+Discovery being able to leave with the Morning had been abandoned.
+On March 2 nearly the whole of the Discovery's company were
+entertained on board the Morning, and on the following day the
+relief ship slowly backed away from the ice-edge, and in a few
+minutes she was turning to the north, with every rope and spar
+outlined against the black northern sky. Cheer after cheer was
+raised as she gathered way, and long after she had passed out
+of earshot the little band stood gazing at her receding hull,
+and wondering when they too would be able to take the northern
+track.
+
+In the Morning went a letter from Scott which shows that although
+in a sense disappointed by the prospect of having to remain for
+another winter, both he and his companions were not by any means
+dismayed. 'It is poor luck,' he wrote, 'as I was dead keen on
+getting a look round C. North before making for home. However
+we all take it philosophically, and are perfectly happy and
+contented on board, and shall have lots to do in winter, spring
+and summer. We will have a jolly good try to free the ship next
+year, though I fear manual labor doesn't go far with such terribly
+heavy ice as we have here; but this year we were of course
+unprepared, and when we realized the situation it was too late
+to begin anything like extensive operations. I can rely on every
+single man that remains in the ship and I gave them all the option
+of leaving... the ship's company is now practically naval-officers
+and men--it is rather queer when one looks back to the original
+gift of two officers.'
+
+Referring to the Southern journey he says, 'We cut our food and
+fuel too fine.... I never knew before what it was to be hungry;
+at times we were famished and had to tighten our belts nightly
+before going to sleep. The others dreamt of food snatched away
+at the last moment, but this didn't bother me so much.'
+
+But characteristically the greater part of this long letter refers
+not to his own doings, but to the admirable qualities of those
+who were with him. Wilson, Royds, Skelton, Hodgson, Barne and
+Bernacchi are all referred to in terms of the warmest praise,
+and for the manner in which Colbeck managed the relief expedition
+the greatest admiration is expressed. But in some way or other
+Scott discovered good points in all the officers he mentioned,
+and if they were not satisfactory in every way his object seemed
+to be rather to excuse than to blame them. He was, however,
+unaffectedly glad to see the last of the cook, for the latter
+had shown himself far more capable at talking than at cooking,
+and had related so many of his wonderful adventures that one
+of the sailors reckoned that the sum total of these thrilling
+experiences must have extended over a period of five hundred
+and ninety years--which, as the sailor said, was a fair age even
+for a cook.
+
+By March 14 even the most optimistic of the company were compelled
+to admit the certainty of a second winter, and orders were given
+to prepare the ship for it. Compared with the previous year the
+weather had been a great deal worse, for there had been more
+wind and much lower temperatures, and under such conditions it
+was hopeless to go on expecting the ice to break up. But it was
+not to be wondered at that they found themselves wondering what
+their imprisonment meant. Was it the present summer or the last
+that was the exception? For them this was the gravest question,
+since on the answer to it their chance of getting away next year,
+or at all, depended.
+
+While, however, the situation as regards the future was not
+altogether without anxiety, they sturdily determined to make the
+best of the present. To ward off any chance of scurvy, it was
+determined to keep rigidly to a fresh-meat routine throughout
+the winter, and consequently a great number of seals and skuas
+had to be killed. At first the skua had been regarded as unfit
+for human food, but Skelton on a sledding trip had caught one in
+a noose and promptly put it into the pot. And the result was so
+satisfactory that the skua at once began to figure prominently on
+the menu. They had, however, to deplore the absence of penguins
+from their winter diet, because none had been seen near the ship
+for a long time.
+
+On Wednesday, April 24, the sun departed, but Scott remarks upon
+this rather dismal fact with the greatest cheerfulness: 'It would
+be agreeable to know what is going to happen next year, but
+otherwise we have no wants. Our routine goes like clock-work;
+we eat, sleep, work and play at regular hours, and are never in
+lack of employment. Hockey, I fear, must soon cease for lack of
+light, but it has been a great diversion, although not unattended
+with risks, for yesterday I captured a black eye from a ball
+furiously driven by Royds.'
+
+Of the months that followed little need be said, except that
+Scott's anticipations were fully realized. In fact the winter
+passed by without a hitch, and their second mid-winter day found
+them even more cheerful than their first. Hodgson continued to
+work away with his fish-traps, tow-nets and dredging; Mulock, who
+had been trained as a surveyor and had great natural abilities
+for the work, was most useful, first in collecting and re-marking
+all the observations, and later on in constructing temporary
+charts; while Barne generally vanished after breakfast and spent
+many a day at his distant sounding holes.
+
+Throughout the season the routine of scientific observations was
+carried out in the same manner as in the previous year, while
+many new details were added; and so engaged was everyone in
+serviceable work that when the second long Polar night ended,
+Scott was able to write: 'I do not think there is a soul on board
+the Discovery who would say that it has been a hardship.... All
+thoughts are turned towards the work that lies before us, and
+it would be difficult to be blind to the possible extent of its
+usefulness. Each day has brought it more home to us how little
+we know and how much there is to be learned, and we realize fully
+that this second year's work may more than double the value of
+our observations. Life in these regions has lost any terror it
+ever possessed for us, for we know that, come what may, we can
+live, and live well, for any reasonable number of years to come.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE WESTERN JOURNEY
+
+  Path of advance! but it leads
+  A long steep journey through sunk
+  Gorges, o'er mountains in snow.
+  --M. ARNOLD.
+
+During the second winter much time and attention had to be given
+to the sledge equipment, for there was scarcely an article in it
+that did not need to be thoroughly overhauled and refitted. But
+in spite of all their efforts, the outfit for the coming season
+was bound to be a tattered and makeshift affair. Skins of an
+inferior quality had to be used for sleeping-bags; the tents were
+blackened with use, threadbare in texture, and patched in many
+places; the cooking apparatus was considerably the worse for wear;
+the wind clothes were almost worn out, while for all the small
+bags, which were required for provisions, they were obliged to
+fall back on any sheets and tablecloths that could be found. This
+state of things, however, was very far from daunting their spirits,
+and long before the winter was over the plan of campaign for the
+next season had been drawn up.
+
+In making the program Scott knew that extended journeys could
+only be made by properly supported parties, and it was easy to
+see that his small company would not be able to make more than
+two supported journeys, though it might be just possible to make
+a third more or less lengthy journey without support. The next
+thing to decide was in what direction these parties should go,
+and in this connection the greatest interest undoubtedly lay in
+the west. To explore the Ferrar Glacier from a geological point
+of view and find out the nature of the interior ice-cap must,
+Scott determined, be attempted at all costs, and this journey
+to the west he decided to lead himself.
+
+In the south it was evident that without dogs no party could hope
+to get beyond the point already reached. But Scott's journey had
+been made a long way from land, and consequently had left many
+problems unsolved, chief among which were the extraordinary
+straits that had appeared to run through the mountain ranges
+without rising in level. It was therefore with the main object
+of exploring one of them that the second supported party, under
+the leadership of Barne and Mulock, was to set out.
+
+The credit in arranging the direction in which the unsupported
+party should go belongs to Bernacchi, who was the first to ask
+Scott what proof they had that the barrier surface continued on
+a level to the eastward; and when Scott began to consider this
+question, he discovered that there was no definite proof, and
+decided that the only way to get it was to go and see.
+
+[Illustration: Pinnacled ice at mouth of Ferrar Glacier.]
+
+[Illustration: Pressure ridges north side of Discovery Bluff.]
+
+Besides the longer journeys, the program included a number of
+shorter ones for specific purposes, and the most important of
+these were the periodic visits to the Emperor penguin rookery,
+as it was hoped that Wilson would be able to observe these birds
+from the beginning of their breeding season.
+
+Finally, one important factor was to dominate all the sledding
+arrangements, for although the Discovery was mainly at the mercy
+of natural causes, Scott made up his mind that everything man
+could do to free her from the ice should be done. As soon as
+they could hope to make any impression upon the great ice-sheet
+around them, the whole force of the company was to set to work
+at the task of extrication, and so all sledding journeys were to
+start in time to assure their return to the ship by the middle
+of December.
+
+On September 9 Scott got away with his own party of Skelton,
+Dailey, Evans, Lashly and Handsley, their object being to find
+a new road to the Ferrar Glacier, and on it to place a depôt
+ready for a greater effort over the ice-cap. The Ferrar Glacier
+descends gradually to the inlet, which had been named New Harbor,
+but Armitage had reported most adversely on this inlet as a route
+for sledges, and in conducting his own party had led it across
+the high foot-hills. As yet Scott had not been to this region,
+but in the nature of things he could not help thinking that some
+practical route must exist up the New Harbor inlet, and that if
+it could be found the journey to the west would be much easier.
+And the result of this little journey was really important, for
+whereas Armitage, at the foot of the Ferrar Glacier, had seen
+the disturbance on the south side, and had concluded that it
+must extend right across, Scott's party fortunately pushed over
+this disturbance and found much easier conditions beyond it.
+
+The fact thus discovered, and which was amply supported by further
+observations, was that invariably in the Antarctic regions where
+glaciers run more or less east and west, the south side will be
+found to be much broken up and decayed, while the north side will
+be comparatively smooth and even. The reason of this, of course,
+is simple enough, for the sun achieves its highest altitude in
+the north, and consequently its warmest and most direct rays fall
+on the south side of a valley. Here, therefore, the greater part
+of the summer melting takes place, and a wild chaos of ice
+disturbance is caused.
+
+Scott's party, by taking a different route, laid a depôt at a
+spot which Armitage had taken three weeks to reach, and was back
+again at the ship in less than a fortnight.
+
+'We were,' Scott says, 'inclined to be exceedingly self-satisfied;
+we had accomplished our object with unexpected ease, we had done
+a record march, and we had endured record temperatures--at least,
+we thought so, and thought also how pleasant it would be to tell
+these things in front of a nice bright fire. As we approached the
+ship, however, Hodgson came out to greet us, and his first question
+was, "What temperatures have you had?" We replied by complacently
+quoting our array of minus fifties, but he quickly cut us short by
+remarking that we were not in it.'
+
+In fact during those few days there had been a very cold snap
+throughout the region. Barne's party on the barrier, where they
+had been laying a depôt, had the coldest time, and after their
+thermometer had fallen lower and lower its spirit-column broke
+at -67.7°. Royds and his party also had to endure -62°, but in
+other respects they were in luck. For on arriving at Cape Crozier
+they found that the Emperor penguins had already hatched out
+their young, and Wilson was delighted to get the opportunity of
+studying the chicks at such a tender age. Commenting upon this
+and another journey to Cape Crozier, Wilson wrote: 'The Emperor
+penguin stands nearly four feet high, and weighs upward of eighty
+to ninety pounds.... I think the chickens hate their parents,
+and when one watches the proceedings in a rookery it strikes
+one as not surprising. In the first place there is about one
+chick to ten or twelve adults, and each adult has an overpowering
+desire to "sit" on something. Both males and females want to
+nurse, and the result is that when a chicken finds himself alone
+there is a rush on the part of a dozen unemployed to seize him.
+Naturally he runs away, and dodges here and there till a six-stone
+Emperor falls on him, and then begins a regular football scrimmage,
+in which each tries to hustle the other off, and the end is too
+often disastrous to the chick.... I think it is not an exaggeration
+to say that of the 77 per cent. that die no less than half are
+killed by kindness.'
+
+From Cape Crozier Cross resolved to try to bring two chickens
+back to the ship, and by giving up his sleeping jacket to keep
+them warm and tending them with the utmost care, he succeeded
+in his attempt. But eventually they died from unnatural feeding,
+and Wilson says: 'Had we even succeeded in bringing them to the
+age when they put on their feathers, I fear that the journey
+home through the tropics would have proved too much for them,
+as we had no means of making a cool place for them on the ship.'
+
+September 21 brought with it a grievous disappointment, as on
+that day the nautical almanac announced that nine-tenths of the
+sun would be obscured. For this event Bernacchi had made the
+most careful preparations, and everyone was placed under his
+orders during the day. Telescopes and the spectroscopic camera
+were trained in the right direction, magnetic instruments were
+set to run at quick speed, and observers were told off to watch
+everything on which the absence of sun could possibly have the
+smallest effect. Everything, in short, was ready except the sun
+itself which obstinately refused to come out. 'There may,' Scott
+says, 'have been an eclipse of the sun on September 21, 1903, as
+the almanac said, but we should none of us have liked to swear
+to the fact.'
+
+The next three weeks or so were spent in preparations for the
+long journeys, and on October 12 Scott left the ship with a party
+of twelve, and four 11-foot sledges. First came his own party,
+which included Skelton, Feather, Evans, Lashly and Handsley;
+secondly there was a small party for the geologist, Ferrar, who
+was accompanied by Kennar and Weller; and thirdly there were
+the supports, consisting of Dailey, Williamson and Plumley.
+
+Scott guessed rightly that in many respects this was going to
+be the hardest task he had yet undertaken, but he knew also that
+experience would be a thing to be reckoned upon, and that it
+would take a good deal to stop the determined men whom he had
+chosen. At the start their loads were a little over 200 lbs.
+per man, but most of the party were by this time in thoroughly
+good condition, and by hard marching they covered the forty-five
+miles to New Harbor and reached the snow-cape early on the 14th.
+
+This snow-cape in future was to be known as Butter Point, for
+here on their return journey they could hope to obtain fresh
+seal-meat, and in preparation for this great event a tin of butter
+was carried and left at the point for each party.
+
+At first all went well with the travelers, and it was not until
+the evening of the 17th, when they were camped amid indescribably
+beautiful scenery, that the first cloud of trouble arose. Then
+Dailey the carpenter reported that the German silver had split
+under the runners of two sledges, and this was a most serious
+blow; for although the wood runners were capable of running on
+snow without protection, on hard, sharp ice, especially if the
+sledge was heavily laden, they would be knocked to pieces in
+a very short time. It was, therefore, absolutely necessary to
+protect the runners on this journey, but unfortunately the German
+silver protection had already stood a season's work, and had worn
+thin without giving any outward sign.
+
+From start to finish of the Ferrar Glacier about ninety miles
+of hard ice were to be expected, and the problem that immediately
+arose was how to get the sledges over this without damage.
+
+By lunch-time on the 18th they had achieved a height of over
+6,000 feet, and by that time the sledges were in such a parlous
+state that Scott had all of them unpacked and the runners turned
+up for inspection. Horrid revelations followed; one sledge remained
+sound, and Scott promptly decided that there was one course and
+only one to take, and that was to return to the ship as fast as
+they could. Had two sledges been available the advance party
+might have struggled on, but with one they could do nothing; so
+they left the sound sledge with everything else except the
+half-week's provisions necessary to take them back, and on the
+following days they 'came as near flying as is possible with a
+sledge party.' On the morning of the 19th they had eighty-seven
+miles to cover, and by 8.30 P.M. on the 21st they had reached
+the ship.
+
+During this march Scott had determined to test his own party
+to the utmost, but seeing no necessity for the supports to be
+dragged into this effort he told them to take their own time.
+The supporting party, however, did not mean to be left behind
+if they could help it, and later on the night of the 21st they
+also reached the ship. In the hard struggle of the last hours
+some of the members of the supporting party, though determined
+not to give in, had been comically astounded by the pace which
+was set, and Kennar, presumably referring to Scott, kept on
+repeating, 'If he can do it, I don't see why I can't: my legs
+are as long as his.
+
+Five days after their flying return they were off again, and
+although the material for repairing sledges was very scanty,
+one sound 11-foot sledge had been made and also a 7-foot one for
+Ferrar's glacier work. Trouble, however, almost at once began
+with the runners, and on the 29th Ferrar's sledge gave out and
+caused a long delay. But in spite of being held up by wind for
+two days, they reached their depôt on November 1, and thought
+at first that everything was safe. On examination, however, they
+discovered that a violent gale had forced open the lid of the
+instrument box, and that several things were missing, among which
+Scott found to his dismay was the 'Hints to Travelers.'
+
+'The gravity of this blow,' he wrote in his diary on November
+1, 'can scarcely be exaggerated; but whilst I realized the blow
+I felt that nothing would induce me to return to the ship a second
+time; I thought it fair, however, to put the case to the others,
+and I am, as I expected, fortified by their willing consent to
+take the risks of pushing on.'
+
+In traveling to the west, Scott expected to be--as indeed he
+was--out of sight of landmarks for some weeks. In such a case
+as this the sledge-traveler is in precisely the same position
+as a ship or a boat at sea: he can only obtain a knowledge of
+his whereabouts by observation of the sun or stars, and with the
+help of these observations he finds his latitude and longitude,
+but to do this a certain amount of data is required. 'Hints to
+Travelers' supplies these necessary data, and it was on this book
+that Scott had been relying to help him to work out his sights
+and fix accurately the position of his party. Unless he went back
+to the ship to make good his loss, he was obliged to take the
+risk of marching into the unknown without knowing exactly where
+he was or how he was to get back. 'If,' he says, 'the loss of
+our "Hints to Travelers" did not lead us into serious trouble it
+caused me many a bad half-hour.'
+
+Having, however, decided to push on, they wasted no time about
+it, and although the sledge-runners continued to need constant
+attention they arrived at the base of the upper glacier reach
+on the 2nd, and on the following day gained a height of 7,000
+feet. So far nothing exceptionally eventful had occurred, but
+November 4 was destined to begin a time that Scott described
+afterwards as 'the most miserable week I have ever spent.' In
+the morning of the 4th there was bright sunshine with a cold,
+increasing wind, but later on the sun disappeared and the weather
+became very threatening. Still, however, they battled on and
+were half-way up the bare, icy slope they were climbing, when
+the air became thick with driving snow and the full force of the
+gale burst upon them. Pushing on at almost a run they succeeded
+in reaching the top, and hurriedly started to search for a patch
+of snow on which to camp, but nothing could be found except bare,
+blue ice. By this time the position was becoming serious, all of
+them were frost-bitten in the face, and although the runners of
+the sledges were split again so badly that they could barely pull
+them over the surface, they did not dare to leave the sledges in
+the thick drift.
+
+At last a white patch was seen and a rush was made for it, but
+the snow discovered was so ancient and wind-swept that it was
+almost as hard as the ice itself. Nevertheless they knew it was
+this or nothing, and Scott seized a shovel for his own tent-party,
+and dug for all he was worth without making the least impression.
+At this moment Feather, the boatswain, luckily came to help him,
+and being more expert with the shovel managed to chip out a few
+small blocks. Then they tried to get up a tent, but again and
+again it and the poles were blown flat, and at least an hour
+passed before the tents were erected. 'Nothing,' Scott wrote,
+'but experience saved us from disaster to-day, for I feel pretty
+confident that we could not have stood another hour in the open.'
+
+Little, however, did they expect when shelter was gained that
+a week would pass before they could resume their march. From
+November 4-11 the gale raged unceasingly, and meanwhile not a
+vision of the outer world came to them, for they were enveloped
+continuously in a thick fog of driving snow.
+
+In Scott's tent there was one book, Darwin's 'Cruise of the Beagle,'
+and first one and then another would read this aloud, until frozen
+fingers prevented the pages from being turned over. Only one
+piece of work were they able to perform, and this on the first
+day when, thinking the storm would soon blow over, they hauled
+the sledges beneath one of the tents and stripped the German
+silver ready for the onward march.
+
+By the fifth day of their imprisonment sleep began to desert them,
+and Scott, realizing that the long inactivity was telling on the
+health of the party, determined that whatever the conditions might
+be he would try to start on the following morning.
+
+This attempt, however, resulted in complete failure. In ten minutes
+both of Scott's hands were 'gone,' Skelton had three toes and the
+heel of one foot badly frost-bitten, and Feather lost all feeling
+in both feet. 'Things are looking serious,' Scott wrote after this
+unsuccessful effort to be up and doing, 'I fear the long spell of
+bad weather is telling on us. The cheerfulness of the party is
+slowly waning; I heard the usual song from Lashly this morning,
+but it was very short-lived and dolorous.... Something must be
+done to-morrow, but what it will be, to-morrow only can show.'
+
+Fortunately the next morning brought a lull in the storm, and
+though the air was still as thick as a hedge it was possible at
+last to break away from 'Desolation Camp.' Then Scott's party
+separated from Ferrar's, the former making for the ice-fall and
+eventually and miraculously reaching the top without accident. On
+starting they could not see half-a-dozen yards ahead, and at once
+went as nearly as possible into an enormous chasm; and when they
+began to ascend they crossed numerous crevasses without waiting
+to see if the bridges would bear. 'I really believe that we were
+in a state when we none of us really cared much what happened;
+our sole thought was to get away from that miserable spot.'
+
+But during the succeeding days fortune was with them, and by the
+night of the 13th the fight was won and the summit reached. With
+five weeks' provisions in hand, and the prospect of covering many
+miles before a return to the glacier would be necessary, they were,
+as they camped at the elevation of 8,900 feet, a very different
+party from the one which had struggled out of 'Desolation Camp'
+on the morning of the 11th.
+
+But they had scarcely gained the summit of the icecap and started
+the journey to the west before troubles again began to gather
+round them. The long stay in 'Desolation Camp' had covered their
+sleeping-bags and night-jackets with ice, and with falling
+temperatures this ice had so little chance to evaporate that
+camping arrangements were acutely uncomfortable; and as each
+night the thermometer fell a little lower, the chance of relief
+from this state of things could scarcely be said to exist. The
+wind, too, was a constant worry, for though it was not very strong,
+when combined with the low temperature and rarefied air its effect
+was blighting.
+
+'I do not think,' Scott wrote, 'that it would be possible to
+conceive a more cheerless prospect than that which faced us at
+this time, when on this lofty, desolate plateau we turned our backs
+upon the last mountain peak that could remind us of habitable lands.
+Yet before us lay the unknown. What fascination lies in that word!
+Could anyone wonder that we determined to push on, be the outlook
+ever so comfortless?'
+
+So they plodded forward with all their strength, but in spite
+of every effort their progress gradually became slower. By the
+17th the sledges had been divided, Scott, Feather, and Evans
+leading with one, while Skelton, Handsley, and Lashly followed
+with the other. But Scott found very soon that the second sledge
+had great difficulty in keeping up, and that although he himself
+felt thoroughly strong and well, some of his companions were
+beginning to fail. As was natural with such men not one of them
+would own that he was exhausted, and in consequence it was only
+by paying the keenest attention that he could detect those who
+from sheer incapacity were relaxing their strain on the traces.
+And his position was not pleasant even when he knew, for to tell
+any of these brave people that they must turn back was a most
+unenviable task. Thus it came about that all six of them marched
+on, though Scott was sure that better progress would have been
+made had the party been divided.
+
+Something like a climax was reached on the 20th, when Handsley
+more or less broke down. Not for a moment, however, did he mean
+to give up, and when he was relieved of some part of his work he
+begged Scott not again to make an example of him. In Handsley's
+opinion his breakdown was a disgrace, and no arguments would
+make him change it. Small wonder then that Scott wrote in his
+diary: 'What children these men are, and yet what splendid children!
+The boatswain has been suffering agonies from his back; he has
+been pulling just behind me, and in some sympathy that comes
+through the traces I have got to know all about him, yet he has
+never uttered a word of complaint, and when he knows my eye is
+on him he straightens up and pretends he is just as fit as ever.
+What is one to do with such people?'
+
+What Scott did was to try for another day to go on as before,
+but on November 22 he had to tell Skelton, Feather, and Handsley
+that they must turn back, and though 'they could not disguise
+their disappointment, they all seemed to understand that it had
+to be.'
+
+From the date on which Scott reluctantly came to this decision,
+three weeks of the hardest physical toil followed for him and
+his companions, Evans and Lashly. Nevertheless Scott looked back
+upon this strenuous time with unmixed satisfaction, and paid a
+high tribute of praise to his companions for their part in the
+successful work that was done.
+
+'With these two men behind me,' he says, 'our sledge seemed to be
+a living thing, and the days of slow progress were numbered....
+Troubles and discomforts were many, and we could only guess at
+the progress we made, but we knew that by sticking to our task
+we should have our reward when our observations came to be worked
+out on board the ship.'
+
+Regularly each night the temperature fell to -40° or below, while
+during the marching hours it rarely rose much above -25°, and
+with this low temperature there was a constant wind. In fact the
+wind was the plague of their lives and cut them to pieces. So
+cracked were their faces that laughing hurt horribly, and the
+first half-hour of the morning march, before they were warmed
+up to the work, was dreadful, as then all their sore places got
+frost-bitten. In short the last week of their outward march was
+a searching test of endurance, but they had resolved to march
+on until November 30, and in spite of the miserable conditions
+there was no turning back before the month had ended.
+
+Scott, however, was most undisguisedly glad when November 30
+had come and gone. 'We have finished our last outward march,
+thank heaven! Nothing has kept us going during the past week
+but the determination to carry out our original intention of
+going on to the end of the month, and so here we have pitched
+our last camp.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE RETURN FROM THE WEST
+
+  Ceaseless frost round the vast solitude
+  Bound its broad zone of stillness.
+  --SHELLEY.
+
+'We are all,' Scott wrote in his diary, 'very proud of our march
+out. I don't know where we are, but I know we must be a long
+way to the west from my rough noon observation of the compass
+variation.' But not for anything in the world did he want again
+to see the interior of Victoria Land. Writing two years after
+this great march he says: 'For me the long month which we spent
+on the Victoria Land summit remains as some vivid but evil dream.
+I have a memory of continuous strain on mind and body, lightened
+only by the unfailing courage and cheerfulness of my companions.'
+
+From first to last the month of November had been a struggle to
+penetrate into this barren, deserted, wind-swept, piercingly cold,
+and fearfully monotonous region, and although on turning homewards
+the travelers were relieved by having the wind at their backs, the
+time of trial was by no means over. Only by utilizing all their
+powers of marching could they hope to retreat in safety from their
+position, and December opened with such overcast weather that
+valuable time had to be spent in the tent. During the next few days,
+however, good marches were made, until on December 9 everything
+changed abruptly for the worse.
+
+On the afternoon of the 9th the surface became so abominably
+bad, that by pulling desperately they could not get the sledge
+along at more than a mile an hour. Oil was growing short, and in
+view of the future Scott had to propose that marching hours should
+be increased by one hour, that they should use half allowance of
+oil, and that if they did not sight landmarks within a couple of
+days their rations should be reduced. 'When I came to the cold
+lunch and fried breakfast poor Evans' face fell; he evidently
+doesn't much believe in the virtue of food, unless it is in the
+form of a hoosh and has some chance of sticking to one's ribs.'
+
+Land was sighted on the 10th, 11th, and 12th, but the weather was
+as overcast as ever, and Scott was still in dreadful uncertainty
+of their whereabouts, because he was unable to recognize a single
+point. Ten hours' pulling per day was beginning to tell upon
+them, and although apart from the increasing pangs of hunger
+there was no sign of sickness, Scott remarks, on the 12th, that
+they were becoming 'gaunt shadows.'
+
+During the morning of the 13th Evans' nose, which had been more
+or less frost-bitten for some weeks, had an especially bad attack.
+His attitude to this unruly member was one of comic forbearance,
+as though, while it scarcely belonged to him, he was more or less
+responsible for it and so had to make excuses. On this occasion
+when told that it had 'gone,' he remarked in a resigned tone,
+'My poor old nose again; well, there, it's chronic!' By the time
+it had been brought round a storm was blowing, and though they
+continued to march, the drift was so thick that at any moment
+they might have walked over the edge of a precipice--a fitting
+prelude to what, by general consent, was admitted to be the most
+adventurous day in their lives.
+
+Prospects, when they started to march on the next morning, were
+at first a little brighter, but soon a bitterly cold wind was
+blowing and high ice hummocks began to appear ahead of them. In
+this predicament Scott realized that it was both rash to go
+forward, as the air was becoming thick with snow-drift, and equally
+rash to stop, for if they had to spend another long spell in a
+blizzard camp, starvation would soon be staring them in the face.
+So he asked Evans and Lashly if they were ready to take the risk
+of going on, and promptly discovered that they were. Then they
+marched straight for the ice disturbance, and as the surface
+became smoother and the slope steeper their sledge began to
+overrun them. At this point Scott put Evans and Lashly behind
+to hold the sledge back, while he continued in front to guide
+its course, and what happened afterwards is described most
+graphically in the diary of the 15th.
+
+'Suddenly Lashly slipped, and in an instant he was sliding downward
+on his back; directly the strain came on Evans, he too was thrown
+off his feet. It all happened in a moment, and before I had time
+to look the sledge and the two men hurtled past me; I braced
+myself to stop them, but might as well have attempted to hold an
+express train. With the first jerk I was whipped off my legs, and
+we all three lay sprawling on our backs and flying downward with
+an ever-increasing velocity. For some reason the first thought
+that flashed into my mind was that someone would break a limb if
+he attempted to stop our mad career, and I shouted something to
+this effect, but might as well have saved my breath. Then there
+came a sort of vague wonder as to what would happen next, and in
+the midst of that I was conscious that we had ceased to slide
+smoothly and were now bounding over a rougher incline, sometimes
+leaving it for several yards at a time; my thought flew to broken
+limbs again, for I felt we could not stand much of such bumping.
+
+'At length we gave a huge leap into the air, and yet we traveled
+with such velocity that I had not time to think before we came
+down with tremendous force on a gradual incline of rough, hard,
+wind-swept snow. Its irregularities brought us to rest in a moment
+or two, and I staggered to my feet in a dazed fashion, wondering
+what had happened.
+
+'Then to my joy I saw the others also struggling to their legs, and
+in another moment I could thank heaven that no limbs were broken.
+But we had by no means escaped scathless; our legs now show one
+black bruise from knee to thigh, and Lashly was unfortunate enough
+to land once on his back, which is bruised and very painful....
+I, as the lightest, escaped the easiest, yet before the two men
+crawled painfully to their feet their first question was to ask
+if I had been hurt.
+
+'As soon as I could pull myself together I looked round, and now
+to my astonishment I saw that we were well on towards the entrance
+of our own glacier; ahead and on either side of us appeared
+well-remembered landmarks, whilst behind, in the rough broken
+ice-wall over which we had fallen, I now recognized at once the
+most elevated ice cascade of our valley....
+
+'I cannot but think that this sudden revelation of our position
+was very wonderful. Half an hour before we had been lost; I could
+not have told whether we were making for our own glacier or any
+other, or whether we were ten or fifty miles from our depôt; it
+was more than a month since we had seen any known landmark. Now
+in this extraordinary manner the curtain had been raised... and
+down the valley we could see the high cliffs of the Depôt Nunatak
+where peace and plenty awaited us.'
+
+The sledge had not capsized until they all rolled over at the
+end, but the jolting had scattered their belongings and broken
+open the biscuit box, with the result that they had no provisions
+left, except the few scraps they could pick up and the meager
+contents of their food bag. As quickly as stiffening limbs would
+allow they collected their scattered articles, repacked the sledge
+and marched on towards the depôt. Before them lay a long plateau,
+at the edge of which Scott knew that they would find a second
+cascade, and beneath it the region of Desolation Camp and a more
+gradual icy surface down to the depôt.
+
+Fortune favored them in descending the second cascade, and quite
+unsuspicious of any further danger they joined up their harness
+to their usual positions in front of the sledge. This brought
+Scott in the middle and a little in advance, with Lashly on his
+right and Evans on his left. Presently the sledge began to skid,
+and Scott told Lashly to pull wide to steady it. Scarcely had
+this order been obeyed when Scott and Evans stepped on nothing
+and disappeared, while Lashly miraculously saved himself from
+following and sprang back with his whole weight on the trace.
+The sledge flashed by him and jumped the crevasse down which
+Scott and Evans had gone, one side of the sledge being cracked
+by the jerk but the other side mercifully holding. 'Personally,'
+Scott says, 'I remember absolutely nothing until I found myself
+dangling at the end of my trace with blue walls on either side
+and a very horrid looking gulf below; large ice-crystals dislodged
+by our movements continued to shower down on our heads. As a
+first step I took off my goggles; I then discovered that Evans
+was hanging just above me. I asked him if he was all right, and
+received a reassuring reply in his calm, matter-of-fact tones.'
+
+Then Scott began to grope about on every side with his cramponed
+feet, but not until his struggles set him swinging did his leg
+suddenly strike a projection. At a glance he saw that by raising
+himself he could get a foothold on this, and after a short struggle
+he stood upon a thin shaft of ice, which was wedged providentially
+between the walls of the chasm, and could look about him. To the
+right or left, above or below, there was not the vestige of another
+such support, nothing, in fact, but the smooth walls of ice. The
+projection seemed to have got there by a miracle, but miracle or
+not the thing to do was to help Evans, and when the latter had
+slipped his harness well up beneath his arms Scott found that he
+could pilot his feet to the bridge.
+
+'All this had occupied some time, and it was only now that I
+realized what had happened above us, for there, some twelve feet
+over our heads, was the outline of the broken sledge. I saw at
+once what a frail support remained, and shouted to Lashly to ask
+what he could do, and then I knew the value of such a level-headed
+companion; for whilst he held on grimly to the sledge and us with
+one hand, his other was busily employed in withdrawing our ski.
+At length he succeeded in sliding two of these beneath the broken
+sledge, and so making our support more secure.'
+
+But clever as this device was it still left them without Lashly's
+active assistance, because directly he relaxed his hold the sledge
+began to slip. The only possible course, therefore, was for Scott
+and Evans to climb out unaided, and, after a word with Evans
+Scott decided to try first; though he confessed afterwards that
+he never expected to reach the top. Not for a longtime had he
+swarmed a rope, and to do so in thick clothing, heavy crampons,
+and with frost-bitten fingers seemed to him impossible. Of the
+struggle that followed he remembered little except that he got a
+rest when he could plant his foot in the belt of his own harness,
+and again when his feet held on the rings of the belt. 'Then
+came a mighty effort, till I reached the stirrup formed by the
+rope span of the sledge, and then, mustering all the strength
+that remained, I reached the sledge itself and flung myself on
+to the snow beyond. Lashly said, "Thank God!" and it was perhaps
+then that I realized that his position had been the worst of all.'
+
+But having arrived at the top he was completely out of action
+for several minutes, for his hands were white to the wrists,
+and not until their circulation came back could he get to work.
+With two on top and only one below the position, however, was
+very different, and presently Evans, badly frost-bitten, was
+landed on the surface. For a minute or two they could only stand
+and look at one another. Then Evans said, 'Well, I'm blowed,'
+which was the first sign of surprise he had shown.
+
+By six o'clock on that same evening they reached their depôt,
+and passed from abject discomfort to rest and peace. Bruised,
+sore and tired as they were, Lashly sang merrily as he stirred
+the pot, while Scott and Evans sat on the sledge, shifted their
+foot-gear, spread out their clothes to dry, and talked cheerily
+about the happenings of the day.
+
+From this time onward their camp-life was wholly, pleasant, except
+to Lashly who had an attack of snow-blindness. Apart from that
+they were in the best of condition for the hard marching in front
+of them, and when on the night of the 20th they reached their
+second depôt and could look out towards the sea, they did not
+care how far round they might have to walk if only that stubborn
+sheet of ice had broken away. But it was too evident that their
+homeward track might be as straight as they chose, as only in
+the far distance was open water to be seen, and with sorrow they
+realized that there must still be many miles of ice between it
+and the Discovery.
+
+Late on Christmas Eve they were once more on board the ship after
+an absence of fifty-nine days, during which they had traveled 725
+miles. Taking the eighty-one days of absence which had constituted
+the whole sledding season, Scott, Evans and Lashly had covered
+l,098 miles, and, not including minor undulations, had climbed
+heights which totaled to 19,000 feet. On getting back to the
+Discovery Scott found only Koettlitz, Handsley and Quartley on
+board, because all the rest of the company had gone to the north
+to saw through the ice; and during the few days of rest that he
+allowed himself before going to the sawing-camp, he was able to
+read the reports of the officers who had led the other journeys,
+and to see what excellent work had been done during his absence.
+
+Ferrar's survey and Skelton's photographic work had added materially
+to the value of the western journey; the party led by Barne and
+Mulock to the south had met with ill-fortune from the start, but
+throughout the journey Mulock used the theodolite indefatigably,
+with the results that this stretch of coast-line was more accurately
+plotted than any other part of Victoria Land, and that the positions
+and height of over two hundred mountain peaks were fixed. Barne
+also obtained a very good indication of the movement of the Great
+Barrier ice-sheet. During Royds' journey, on which the party went
+on very short food allowance, Bernacchi took a most interesting
+series of magnetic observations. And although to Bernacchi himself
+belongs the greatest credit, some reflected glory, at any rate, fell
+upon his companions, because they had to stay shivering outside the
+tent while he was at work inside it.
+
+Wilson had not only been busy with the penguins at Cape Crozier,
+but had also made a complete examination of the enormous and
+interesting pressure ridges which form the junction of the Great
+Barrier ice-mass with the land, and subsequently had spent much
+time in studying the windless area to the south of Ross Island.
+Also, with Armitage and Heald, he had made an excellent little
+journey, on which Armitage obtained some very good photographs,
+sufficient in themselves to prove the receding glacial conditions
+of the whole continent.
+
+In short during Scott's absence his companions had been working
+strenuously to increase the supply of information; so when the
+second sledding-season ended, they could with reason congratulate
+themselves that the main part of their work was done.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+RELEASE
+
+                      And Thor
+  Set his shoulder hard against the stern
+  To push the ship through...
+  ...and the water gurgled in
+  And the ship floated on the waves and rock'd.
+  --M. ARNOLD.
+
+After a few days on board Scott became restless to see what was
+going on in the sawing-camp, and on the morning of the 31st he
+started off with Evans, Lashly and Handsley to march the ten and
+a half miles to the north. When the instructions for this attempt
+to free the Discovery were drawn up, there had been, of course,
+no telling how broad the ice-sheet would be when operations began,
+and Scott had been obliged to assume that it would be nearly the
+same as in the previous year, when the open water had extended to
+the Dellbridge Islets about eleven miles from the ship. There he
+directed that the camp should be made, and Armitage, on whom in
+Scott's absence the command had devolved, made all preparations
+in accordance with the instructions he had received.
+
+At the outset, however, a difficulty awaited him, as in the middle
+of December the open water, instead of being up to the islets,
+ended at least ten miles farther to the north. Under the
+circumstances he considered it dangerous to take the camp out
+to the ice-edge, and so the sawing work had been begun in the
+middle of the ice-sheet instead of at its edge.
+
+Thirty people were in the camp when Scott arrived, and though at
+first the work had been painful both to arms and backs they were
+all in splendid condition and spirits. Fortunately this was a land
+of plenty, penguins and seals abounded, and everyone agreed that,
+apart from the labor, they were having a most enjoyable time,
+though no one imagined that the work would be useful.
+
+In two days Scott was as convinced as anyone that the work must
+be in vain, and ordered the sawing to stop. 'I have been much
+struck,' he wrote, 'by the way in which everyone has cheerfully
+carried on this hopeless work until the order came to halt. There
+could have been no officer or man among them who did not see
+from the first how utterly useless it was, and yet there has
+been no faltering or complaint, simply because all have felt
+that, as the sailor expresses it, "Them's the orders."'
+
+With twenty miles of ice between the Discovery and freedom, the
+possibility of yet another winter had to be considered, so although
+most of the company returned to the ship, Lashly, Evans, Handsley
+and Clarke were left behind to make sure of an adequate stock of
+penguins. And then Scott being unable to do any good by remaining
+in the ship started off to the north with Wilson, the former
+being anxious to watch the ice-edge and see what chance there
+was of a break-up, while Wilson wanted to study the life of that
+region. This journey was to be 'a real picnic,' with no hard
+marching and plenty to eat; and, pursuing their leisurely way,
+on January 4 they were within half a mile of the open water when
+Wilson suddenly said, 'There they are.' Then Scott looked round,
+and on the rocks of Cape Royds saw a red smudge dotted with
+thousands of little black and white figures. Without doubt they
+had stumbled upon a penguin rookery, but interesting as it was
+to have made the discovery, it was at the same time exasperating
+to think of the feast of eggs they had missed in the last two
+years. During the rest of the day they watched the penguins and
+the skua gulls which were nesting around them; and before supper
+they took soap and towels down to a rill of thaw-water that ran
+within a few yards of their tent, and washed in the warm sunlight.
+'Then,' Scott says, 'we had a dish of fried penguin's liver with
+seal kidneys; eaten straight out of the frying-pan, this was
+simply delicious. I have come to the conclusion that life in the
+Antarctic Regions can be very pleasant.'
+
+Still in the proper picnic spirit they dawdled over their breakfast
+on the following day, and were lazily discussing plans when Scott,
+looking through the open door of the tent to the clear sea beyond,
+suddenly caught sight of a ship. In a moment haste and bustle
+reigned supreme, and while they were searching for boots and other
+things necessary for the march, Wilson said, 'Why, there's another,'
+and without any doubt two vessels were framed in the doorway. It
+had at once been taken for granted that the first ship was the
+Morning, but what in the name of fortune was the meaning of the
+other neither Scott nor Wilson could imagine. The easiest and
+quickest way to find out was to go straight on board, for the
+ships were making for the ice-edge some five miles to the westward,
+but if they had followed this simple plan their companions on the
+Discovery would have known nothing about it, and would have been
+compelled to wait for their mails. So they started southward to
+find the penguin hunters, and then to send them to establish
+communications with the ship. For a long time no sight of the
+men could be seen, but after traveling about six miles Scott and
+Wilson saw the tent, though without any signs of life about it;
+indeed they were within a hundred yards before in answer to their
+shouts four very satisfied figures emerged, still munching the
+remains of a meal. 'Of course,' Scott says, 'I thought they had
+not seen the ships, but they had, only, as they explained, they
+didn't see there was any cause for them to do anything in the
+matter. I said, "But, good heavens, you want your mails, don't
+you?" "Oh, yes, sir," they replied, "but we thought that would
+be all right." In other words, they as good as said that life
+was so extremely easy and pleasant that there was no possible
+object in worrying over such a trifle as the arrival of a relief
+expedition.' When, however, they had got their orders they were
+off at once, and Scott and Wilson went back to the ships and soon
+found out from Colbeck why the Terra Nova had accompanied the
+Morning, and how strangely the aspect of affairs had altered.
+Writing in his diary on that night Scott says, 'I can only record
+that in spite of the good home news, and in spite of the pleasure
+of seeing old friends again, I was happier last night than I am
+to-night.'
+
+Briefly the reasons for the sending of the two ships instead of
+one were these. Scott's report taken by the Morning had left the
+strong impression that the relief ship must again be sent to the
+south in 1903. The 'Morning' fund, however, was inadequate to
+meet the requirements of another year, and there was not time
+enough to appeal to the public and to explain the full necessities
+of the case. In these circumstances there was nothing for the
+Societies to do but to appeal to the Government, and eventually
+the latter agreed to undertake the whole conduct of the relief
+expedition, provided that the Morning, as she stood, was delivered
+over to them. The Government naturally placed the management of
+affairs in the hands of the Admiralty, and once having taken the
+responsibility it was felt that two ships must be sent, in order
+that there should be no risk of the pledge being unfulfilled.
+
+The Terra Nova, one of the finest of the whaling ships, was bought,
+and a whaling crew, under the command of Captain Harry MacKay, was
+engaged to navigate her. Towards the end of November 1903 she
+layoff Hobart Town in Tasmania, and in December she was joined
+by the Morning, Captain Colbeck being directed to take charge
+of this joint venture until both ships could come under Scott's
+command.
+
+Thus it happened that, much to every one's surprise, two ships
+arrived off the edge of the fast ice on January 4, 1904. It was
+not, however, the arrival of the Terra Nova, whose captain from
+the first was anxious to help in every way, but quite another
+matter that made Scott so sad--and naturally sad--at this time.
+
+In England the majority of those competent to judge the situation
+had formed the opinion that the Discovery was stuck fast in the
+ice for all time. Whether the Admiralty held this opinion or
+not is of no consequence, because in any case it was their duty
+to see that the expense of another relief expedition should be
+avoided. Consequently there was no other course open to them
+except to tell Scott to abandon the Discovery, if she could not
+be freed in time to accompany the relief ships to the north. But
+necessary as this order was, it placed Scott and his companions
+in a very cruel position. Under the most ordinary conditions a
+sailor would go through much rather than abandon his ship, but
+the ties which bound Scott and his company to the Discovery were
+very far beyond the ordinary; indeed they involved a depth of
+sentiment not in the least surprising when their associations
+with her are remembered.
+
+In spite of their long detention in the ice, the thought of leaving
+her had never entered their heads. Some time she would be free
+again, and even if they had to spend a third winter in her they
+had determined to go through with it, and make themselves as
+comfortable as possible.
+
+It was from this passably contented frame of mind that they were
+rudely awakened. Now they were obliged to face the fact that
+unless a twenty-mile plain of ice broke up within six weeks,
+they must bid a long farewell to their beloved ship and return
+to their homes as castaways. So with the arrival of the relief
+ships there fell the first and last cloud of gloom which was
+ever allowed on board the Discovery. And as day followed day with
+no improvement in the ice conditions, the gloom deepened until
+anyone might easily have imagined that an Antarctic expedition
+was a most dismal affair.
+
+On January 10 Scott wrote: 'Reached the ship this morning, and
+this afternoon assembled all hands on the mess-deck, where I
+told them exactly how matters stood. There was a stony silence.
+I have not heard a laugh in the ship since I returned.'
+
+For some time a flagstaff had been erected on Tent Islet, ten
+miles to the north, and a system of signals had been arranged
+to notify any changes in the ice, but day after day the only
+signal was 'No change in the ice conditions.'
+
+On the 15th to relieve the weariness of waiting for something
+that did not happen, Scott arranged that their collections and
+instruments should be transported to the relief ships. Whatever
+the future held in store he saw no reason why this should not
+be done, and to have anything at all to do during this trying
+time was a blessing; though he had by no means given up hope
+that the Discovery would be freed. After a long spell at Cape
+Royds camp, Wilson returned to the ship on the night of the 21st
+with news that was all the more welcome at such an anxious time.
+Strolling over the beach one day to inspect what he thought was
+a prodigiously large seal he saw that it was quite different
+from any of the ordinary seals, and went back to the camp for
+his gun. Two of the Morning officers were in camp with him, and
+all three of them proceeded to stalk this strange new beast.
+Their great fear was that they might only succeed in wounding
+it and that it might escape into the sea; so in spite of the
+temperature of the water they waded round it before they attacked.
+These tactics were successful, but their quarry when dispatched
+was far too heavy for them to move, or for Wilson to examine
+where it lay. On the following day, however, Colbeck came over
+in the Morning, and with the aid of boats and ropes the carcass
+was landed on his decks. Then Wilson came to the conclusion that
+the animal was a sea-elephant commonly found at Macquarie Island,
+but never before seen within the Antarctic circle.
+
+No change in the ice occurred until the 18th when some large pieces
+broke away, and by the 23rd Scott reckoned that the relief ships
+were four or five miles nearer than they had been a fortnight
+before. But, if the conditions were to be as they had been two
+years before, thirteen or fourteen miles of ice must go out in
+fifteen days, a far more rapid rate than it had been going during
+the previous fortnight. On the 28th, however, the first sign of
+real promise occurred, for the whole ice-sheet began to sway
+very slightly under the action of a long swell, its edge against
+the land rising and falling as much as 18 inches. 'We are all
+very restless, constantly dashing up the hill to the lookout
+station or wandering from place to place to observe the effects
+of the swell. But it is long since we enjoyed such a cheerful
+experience as we get on watching the loose pieces of ice jostling
+one another at Hut Point.'
+
+Days of hope and anxiety followed, until the 14th of February
+arrived and brought the best of news with it. During the day
+nothing unusual happened, and it was not until Scott was at dinner
+that the excitement began. Then he heard a shout on deck, and
+a voice sang out down the hatchway, 'The ships are coming, sir!'
+
+'There was no more dinner, and in a moment we were racing for Hut
+Point, where a glorious sight met our view. The ice was breaking
+up right across the strait, and with a rapidity which we had not
+thought possible. No sooner was one great floe borne away. Than
+a dark streak cut its way into the solid sheet that remained and
+carved out another, to feed the broad stream of pack which was
+hurrying away to the north-west.
+
+'I have never witnessed a more impressive sight; the sun was low
+behind us, the surface of the ice-sheet in front was intensely
+white, and in contrast the distant sea and its forking leads
+looked almost black. The wind had fallen to a calm, and not a
+sound disturbed the stillness about us. Yet, in the midst of
+this peaceful silence, was an awful unseen agency rending that
+great ice-sheet as though it had been none but the thinnest paper.'
+
+But fast as the ice was breaking, it was not fast enough for the
+relief ships. Evidently there was a race between them to be the
+first to pass beyond the flagstaff round which the small company
+of spectators had clustered; although the little Morning, with
+her bluff bows and weak engines, could scarcely expect to hold
+her own against such a powerful competitor. By half-past ten
+those on shore could see the splintering of the ice as the ships
+crashed into the floes, and the shouts of the men as with wild
+excitement they cheered each fresh success, could be distinctly
+heard.
+
+Scarcely half a mile of ice remained and the contest became keener
+and keener. On came the Terra Nova, but in spite of all her mighty
+efforts the persistent little Morning, dodging right and left and
+seizing every chance opening, kept doggedly at her side, and still
+seemed to have a chance of winning the race.
+
+Meanwhile the spectators, in their nondescript tattered garments,
+stood breathlessly watching this wonderful scene.
+
+'For long intervals we remained almost spell-bound, and then
+a burst of frenzied cheering broke out. It seemed to us almost
+too good to be real. By eleven o'clock all the thick ice had
+vanished, and there remained only the thin area of decayed floe
+which has lately made the approach to the ships so dangerous;
+a few minutes later the Terra Nova forged ahead and came crashing
+into the open, to be followed almost immediately by her stout
+little companion, and soon both ships were firmly anchored to
+all that remains of the Discovery's prison, the wedge that still
+holds in our small bay....
+
+'And so to-night the ships of our small fleet are lying almost
+side by side; a rope from the Terra Nova is actually secured to
+the Discovery. Who could have thought it possible? Certainly not
+we who have lived through the trying scenes of the last month.'
+
+The small wedge of sea-ice that still remained in the bay was
+cracked in many places, and would doubtless have departed of
+its own accord in a few days; but Scott, naturally impatient to
+get away, decided to hasten matters by explosions. Consequently
+at 1 A.M. on February 16 there was an explosion which shook the
+whole bay, and rudely disturbed not only the ice but also the
+slumbers of those who were not members of the explosion party.
+
+A few hours later another explosive charge was borne out, and
+when all was ready Scott pressed the firing key. 'There was a
+thunderous report which shook the ship throughout, and then all
+was calm again. For a brief moment one might have imagined that
+nothing had happened, but then one saw that each crack was slowly
+widening; presently there came the gurgle of water as it was
+sucked into our opening ice-bed, and in another minute there
+was a creaking aft and our stern rose with a jump as the keel
+was freed from the ice which had held it down. Then, as the great
+mass of ice on our port hand slowly glided out to sea, our good
+ship swung gently round and lay peacefully riding to her anchors
+with the blue water lapping against her sides.... Thus it was
+that the Discovery came to her own again--the right to ride the
+high seas.'
+
+On that day it would have been impossible to find a prouder or
+happier ship's company, but with all their feelings of elation
+they did not imagine that everything would run smoothly after
+such a long period of disuse, and they knew also that much hard
+work lay in front of them if they were to carry out the remainder
+of their program. If the Discovery was free before the navigable
+season closed Scott had resolved to spend the remaining time
+in exploring the region to the westward of Cape North, but now
+after two years' imprisonment coal was lacking for such a scheme.
+Directly the relief ships had arrived he had asked them for as
+great a quantity as possible, but although the replies had at
+first been satisfactory, a long month's fight with wind and ice
+had sadly reduced the amount they could afford to give. The only
+thing to do was to get without any delay what could be spared, and
+on the afternoon of the 16th the Terra Nova came alongside to hand
+over her supply. 'The afternoon,' Scott says, 'was beautifully
+calm and bright, and the weather seemed to smile peacefully on
+the termination of our long and successful struggle with the
+ice.... We little guessed what lay before us.'
+
+On the 15th a large wooden cross, bearing a simply carved
+inscription to the memory of poor Vince, was erected on the summit
+of Hut Point, and on the following day the small company landed
+together and stood bareheaded round this memorial, while Scott
+read some short prayers.
+
+The water was oily calm and the sky threatening as they pulled
+back to the ship after paying this last tribute of homage to
+their shipmate, but weather of this kind had been too common
+to attract attention. On that night Captain MacKay was dining
+in the Discovery for the first time, and a great effort had been
+made to show him how good an Antarctic feast could be. In the
+middle of dinner, however, word came down to Scott that the wind
+had sprung up, and although he expected nothing serious he went
+up to see what was happening. Then he saw they were in for a
+stiff blow, and reluctantly had to inform his guests of the fact.
+One glance at the sky satisfied MacKay, who was over the rail
+like a shot, and in a few minutes the Terra Nova was steaming
+for the open and lost in the drift. '
+
+[Illustration: The 'Terra Nova' leaving the Antarctic.]
+
+Very soon both wind and sea had risen, but although Scott did
+not altogether like the look of things and determined to get up
+steam as soon as possible, he did not want to hurry those in the
+engine-room after such a long period of disuse. But early in the
+morning of the 17th the situation became really dangerous, and
+the Discovery began to jerk at her cables in the most alarming
+manner.
+
+'I knew,' he wrote on the night of that eventful day, 'that in
+spite of our heavy anchor the holding ground was poor, and I
+watched anxiously to see if the ship dragged.
+
+'It came at last, just as Skelton sent a promise of steam in
+half an hour. The sea was again breaking heavily on the ice-foot
+astern and I walked up and down wondering which was coming first,
+the steam or this wave-beaten cliff. It was not a pleasant
+situation, as the distance grew shorter every minute, until
+the spray of the breaking waves fell on our poop, and this was
+soon followed by a tremendous blow as our stern struck the ice.
+We rebounded and struck again, and our head was just beginning
+to falloff and the ship to get broadside on (heaven knows what
+would have happened then) when steam was announced.'
+
+Then the ship just held her own and only just; the engines alone
+would not send her to windward in the teeth of the gale. Once
+around Hut Point, Scott knew that they would be safe with open
+sea before them; and the end of the Point was only a quarter
+of a mile out, though off the end there was a shallow patch which
+had to be cleared before safety could be reached. So finding
+that no headway was being made he began to edge out towards the
+Point, and all seemed well until, nearly opposite to the Point
+itself, he saw to his alarm that a strong current was sweeping
+past.
+
+'Nothing remained but to make a dash for it, and I swung the helm
+over and steered for the open. But the moment our bows entered the
+fast-running stream we were swung round like a top, and the instant
+after we crashed head foremost onto the shoal and stopped dead with
+our masts shivering. We were in the worst possible position, dead
+to windward of the bank with wind, sea, and current all tending to
+set us faster ashore.
+
+'We took the shore thus at about 11 A.M., and the hours that
+followed were truly the most dreadful I have ever spent. Each
+moment the ship came down with a sickening thud which shook her
+from stem to stern, and each thud seemed to show more plainly
+that, strong as was her build, she could not long survive such
+awful blows.'
+
+Hour after hour passed while the ship quivered and trembled and
+crashed again and again into her rocky bed. Nothing more could be
+done for her until the gale abated, but seeing the impossibility
+of doing anything at the time, Scott recognized that the next
+best thing was to be prepared to act promptly when the weather
+moderated. Then he discovered once more how absolutely he could
+rely on the support and intelligence of his companions. Skelton
+already had made a list of weights by the removal of which the
+ship could be lightened, and when the boatswain was summoned
+to discuss the manner in which the anchors could be laid out he
+also had his scheme cut and dried.
+
+The first sign of a lull came at 7 P.M., and soon after they
+assembled to the dreariest dinner ever remembered in the Discovery.
+But when they were half-way through this silent meal Mulock, the
+officer of the watch, suddenly burst in and said, 'The ship's
+working astern, sir.'
+
+In record time Scott reached the bridge, and found that both
+wind and sea had dropped in the most extraordinary manner. But
+what surprised him even more was that the current, which had
+been running strongly to the north, had turned and was running
+with equal speed to the south. Each time that the ship lifted
+on a wave she worked two or three inches astern, and though she
+was still grinding heavily she no longer struck the bottom with
+such terrific force. Scarcely, however, had these facts been
+observed when Skelton rushed up to say that the inlets were free
+again.
+
+'Every soul was on deck and in a moment they were massed together
+and running from side to side in measured time. The telegraphs
+were put full speed astern; soon the engines began to revolve,
+and the water foamed and frothed along the side. For a minute or
+two the ship seemed to hesitate, but then there came a steady
+grating under the bottom, which gradually traveled forward, and
+ceased as the ship, rolling heavily, slid gently into deep water....
+Rarely, if ever, can a ship have appeared in such an uncomfortable
+plight as ours to find herself free and safe within the space
+of an hour.... To be in ten feet of water in a ship that draws
+fourteen feet cannot be a pleasant position--nor can there be
+a doubt that the shocks which the Discovery sustained would have
+very seriously damaged a less stoutly built vessel.'
+
+None too soon were they clear of the shoal, for in a very short
+time the wind was again blowing from the south; but as, on the
+18th, the wind though still blowing strong had gone round to the
+southeast and brought smoother water in the Sound, it was decided
+to make for the inlets of the glacier tongue to the north, and
+complete the coaling operations.
+
+On occasions when haste was necessary there was, by mutual consent,
+no distinction between officers and men. And Scott mentions 'as
+a sight for the gods' the scene of biologists, vertebrate zoologists,
+lieutenants, and A.B.'s with grimed faces and chafed hands working
+with all their might on the coaling whips.
+
+The Morning handed over twenty-five tons of coal, and this was
+all the more a generous gift since it reduced Colbeck to the
+narrowest margin, and compelled him to return directly homeward
+without joining in any attempt at further exploration. 'His
+practical common sense told him he could be of little use to
+us, and with his usual loyalty he never hesitated to act for
+the best, at whatever sacrifice to his own hopes and wishes.'
+
+Before they left the glacier in McMurdo Sound it was arranged
+that the three ships should journey up the coast together and
+then separate, the Morning proceeding to the north, while the
+Discovery and the Terra Nova turned west. The companies of both
+Relief ships, however, expressed a strong desire to be with the
+Discovery when she entered her first civilized port; so Scott
+fixed upon Port Ross, in the Auckland Islands, as a spot at which
+they might meet before the final return to New Zealand.
+
+February 20 saw the Discovery speeding along a stretch of coast
+that had been quite unknown until she had two years previously
+made her way south along it, and at that time she had been obliged
+to keep a long distance out on account of the pack-ice. But now
+gaps which had been missed could be filled in; and even more than
+this was done, for Mulock remained on deck night and day taking
+innumerable angles to peaks and headlands, while Wilson, equally
+indefatigable, transferred this long panorama of mountain scenery
+to his sketch-book.
+
+Two days later the pumps refused to act, and the whole of the
+engine-room staff were on duty for twenty-four hours on end;
+and on the 24th the carpenter called attention to the rudder. On
+inspection Scott saw that the solid oak rudder-head was completely
+shattered, and was held together by little more than its weight;
+as the tiller was moved right or left the rudder followed it, but
+with a lag of many degrees, so that the connection between the two
+was evidently insecure. In such a condition it was obvious that
+they could not hope to weather a gale without losing all control
+over the ship, and that no time was to be lost in shipping their
+spare rudder in place of the damaged one. So Scott determined to
+seek shelter in Robertson Bay, and by night the damaged rudder
+had been hoisted on deck and the spare one prepared for lowering
+into its place. Since the Discovery had left winter quarters an
+almost incredible amount of work had been done to bring her into
+sea trim. Difficulty after difficulty had arisen, but the energy
+of the company had never slackened, and by February 25 Scott was
+able to say that everything was once more in order, though he was
+a little doubtful about the steering power of their spare rudder.
+
+At this time it was all the more important that the ship should
+give no further trouble, because according to their program they
+were about to penetrate a new region, and expected to find quite
+enough to do without considering internal difficulties. With
+high hopes that steam power would enable them to pass beyond the
+point reached by Sir James Ross in his sailing ships they turned
+to the west, and at first all went well with them. Pack-ice,
+however, was destined to be an insuperable obstacle to their
+advance, and on the 26th they decided to turn to the north-east
+and try to find a way around this formidable barrier. 'It is
+grievously disappointing to find the pack so far to the east;
+Ross carried the open water almost to Cape North.' And again
+on March 1, Scott sounds a note of lamentation: 'There can be
+no doubt that since leaving Victoria Land we have been skirting
+a continuous mass of pack, which must cover the whole sea south
+of the Balleny Islands. That it should have lain so far to the
+eastward this year is very annoying; however, if we can push on
+upon this course we ought to strike the islands.'
+
+Early in the morning of the following day land was reported, and
+by noon they were abreast of it; but what this island, and others
+that were dimly to be seen to the north, could be, puzzled them
+considerably, and not until some time later was the problem
+solved. In 1839 Balleny discovered a group of islands in this
+region, and three years later Ross saw land which he imagined
+was to the southward of Balleny's discoveries, and believing it
+to be divided into three distinct masses named it the Russell
+Islands. Consequently Scott arrived expecting to see two groups
+of islands, and was naturally perplexed when only one group was
+to be seen. After, however, studying the accounts of these islands
+and comparing them with what he could actually see, he recognized
+that they had just passed Balleny's Sturge Island, which Balleny
+had seen from the north, and so could have had no idea of its
+length in a north-and-south line. Later Ross must have seen this
+same island, and, as Scott saw to be quite possible, from a great
+distance must have thought that it was divided into three, and
+hence made the mistake of naming it as a separate group.
+Fortunately Mulock was able to obtain sufficient bearings to
+fix accurately the position of each island.
+
+Now that the knotty question as to the geography of the Balleny
+Islands was settled, they went on to look for the land that Wilkes
+claimed to have discovered in 1840, but not a glimpse nor a vestige
+of it could they see; and, on March 4, they had to conclude that
+Wilkes Land was once and for all definitely disposed of. With
+this negative, but nevertheless important, result, the exploring
+work ended, and although a lack of coal had prevented their
+cherished plan of rounding Cape North, they had at least the
+satisfaction of clearing up some geographical misconceptions
+in a more northerly latitude.
+
+From the 6th to the 14th continuous gales brought conditions of
+greater physical discomfort than had ever been experienced on
+board the Discovery, for she was in very light trim and tossed
+about the mountainous seas like a cork. It was, therefore, the
+greatest relief to furl their sails off the entrance of Ross
+Harbor on the 15th, and to steam into the calm waters of the Bay.
+
+Neither the Terra Nova nor the Morning had yet arrived, and the
+days of waiting were spent in making their ship as smart as possible
+before the eyes of the multitude gazed upon her. Thus, in a few
+days, the Discovery looked as though she had spent her adventurous
+years in some peaceful harbor.
+
+On March 19 the Terra Nova hove in sight, and was followed on
+the next day by the Morning. Both ships had experienced the most
+terrible weather, and everyone on board the little Morning declared
+that she had only been saved from disaster by the consummate
+seamanship of Captain Colbeck.
+
+A few days later the small fleet again set sail, and after a most
+favorable voyage was at daybreak on April 1 off the Heads of
+Lyttelton Harbor; and before noon they were safely berthed alongside
+the jetty, from which they had sailed with such hearty wishes
+more than two years before.
+
+'New Zealand,' Scott said, 'welcomed us as its own, and showered
+on us a wealth of hospitality and kindness which assuredly we can
+never forget, however difficult we may have found it to express
+our thanks. In these delightful conditions, with everything that
+could make for perfect rest and comfort, we abode for two full
+months before we set out on our last long voyage.'
+
+June 8, however, found them at sea again, and a month or so later
+they anchored in Port Stanley (Falkland Islands), where they
+replenished their stock of coal and took the last series of magnetic
+observations in connection with their Southern Survey. And from
+the Falkland Islands, Scott wrote a letter which is yet another
+testimony of the admiration he felt for his companions. 'The
+praise,' he wrote, 'for whatever success we have had is really
+due to the ship's company as a whole rather than to individuals.
+That is not very clear, perhaps; what I mean is that the combination
+of individual effort for the common good has achieved our results,
+and the absence of any spirit of self-seeking. The motto throughout
+has been "share and share alike," and its most practical form
+lies, perhaps, in the fact that throughout our three years there
+has been no distinction between the food served to officers and men.
+
+Under these circumstances I naturally feel that I can claim no
+greater share of achievement than those who have stood by me so
+loyally, and so I regard myself merely as the lucky figure-head.
+
+'But it is good news to hear that the Admiralty are sympathetic,
+for I feel that no effort should be spared to gain their recognition
+of the splendid qualities displayed by officers and men.'
+
+Early on the morning of September 9 the homeland was sighted,
+and for those who gazed longingly over the bulwarks and waited to
+welcome and be welcomed, there was only one cloud to dim the joy
+of their return. For with the happiness came also the sad thought
+that the end had come to those ties, which had held together the
+small band of the Discovery in the closest companionship and most
+unswerving loyalty.
+
+
+
+
+THE LAST EXPEDITION
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO 'SCOTT'S LAST EXPEDITION'
+
+By SIR CLEMENTS R MARKHAM, K.C.B.
+
+Fourteen years ago Robert Falcon Scott was a rising naval officer,
+able, accomplished, popular, highly thought of by his superiors,
+and devoted to his noble profession. It was a serious responsibility
+to induce him to take up the work of an explorer; yet no man
+living could be found who was so well fitted to command a great
+Antarctic Expedition. The undertaking was new and unprecedented.
+The object was to explore the unknown Antarctic Continent by
+land. Captain Scott entered upon the enterprise with enthusiasm
+tempered by prudence and sound sense. All had to be learnt by a
+thorough study of the history of Arctic traveling, combined with
+experience of different conditions in the Antarctic Regions. Scott
+was the initiator and founder of Antarctic sledge-traveling. His
+discoveries were of great importance. The survey and soundings
+along the Barrier cliffs, the discovery of King Edward Land, the
+discovery of Ross Island and the other volcanic islets, the
+examination of the Barrier surface, the discovery of the Victoria
+Mountains--a range of great height and many hundreds of miles
+in length, which had only before been seen from a distance out
+at sea--and above all the discovery of the great ice cap on which
+the South Pole is situated, by one of the most remarkable Polar
+journeys on record. His small but excellent scientific staff
+worked hard and with trained intelligence, their results being
+recorded in twelve large quarto volumes.
+
+The great discoverer had no intention of losing touch with his
+beloved profession though resolved to complete his Antarctic work.
+The exigencies of the naval service called him to the command of
+battleships and to confidential work of the Admiralty; so that
+five years elapsed before he could resume his Antarctic labors.
+
+The object of Captain Scott's second expedition was mainly
+scientific, to complete and extend his former work in all branches
+of science. It was his ambition that in his ship there should be
+the most completely equipped expedition for scientific purposes
+connected with the Polar regions, both as regards men and material,
+that ever left these shores. In this he succeeded. He had on
+board a fuller complement of geologists, one of them especially
+trained for the study, of physiography, biologists, physicists,
+and surveyors than ever before composed the staff of a Polar
+expedition. Thus Captain Scott's objects were strictly scientific,
+including the completion and extension of his former discoveries.
+The results will be explained in the second volume of this work.
+They will be found to be extensive and important. Never before,
+in the Polar regions, have meteorological, magnetic and tidal
+observations been taken, in one locality, during five years. It
+was also part of Captain Scott's plan to reach the South Pole by
+a long and most arduous journey, but here again his intention
+was, if possible, to achieve scientific results on the way,
+especially hoping to discover fossils which would throw light
+on the former history of the great range of mountains which he
+had made known to science.
+
+The principal aim of this great man--for he rightly has his niche
+among the Polar Dii Majores--was the advancement of knowledge.
+From all aspects Scott was among the most remarkable men of our
+time, and the vast number of readers of his journal will be deeply
+impressed with the beauty of his character. The chief traits
+which shone forth through his life were conspicuous in the hour
+of death. There are few events in history to be compared, for
+grandeur and pathos, with the last closing scene in that silent
+wilderness of snow. The great leader, with the bodies of his
+dearest friends beside him, wrote and wrote until the pencil
+dropped from his dying grasp. There was no thought of himself,
+only the earnest desire to give comfort and consolation to others
+in their sorrow. His very last lines were written lest he who
+induced him to enter upon Antarctic work should now feel regret
+for what he had done.
+
+'If I cannot write to Sir Clements, tell him I thought much of him,
+and never regretted his putting me in command of the Discovery.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following appointments were held in the Royal Navy by Captain
+Scott between 1905 and 1910:
+
+  January to July, 1906            Admiralty (Assistant Director
+                                   of Naval Intelligence.)
+  Aug. 21, 1906, to Jan. 1, 1907   Victorious (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Jan. 2, 1907, to Aug. 24, 1907   Albermarle (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Egerton, Rear-Admiral
+                                   in the Atlantic Fleet).
+  Aug. 25, 1907, to Jan. 24, 1908  Not actively employed afloat
+                                   between these dates.
+  Jan. 25, 1908, to May 29, 1908   Essex (Captain).
+  May 30, 1908, to March 23, 1909  Bulwark (Flag Captain to
+                                   Rear-Admiral Colville, Rear-Admiral
+                                   the Nore Division, Home Fleet).
+
+Then Naval Assistant to Second Sea Lord of the Admiralty. Appointed
+to H.M.S. President for British Antarctic Expedition June 1, 1910.
+
+On September 2, 1908, at Hampton Court Palace, Captain Scott was
+married to Kathleen, daughter of the late Canon Lloyd Bruce. Peter
+Markham Scott was born on September 14, 1909.
+
+On September 13, 1909, Captain Scott published his plans for
+the British Antarctic Expedition of the following year, and his
+appeal resulted in £10,000 being collected as a nucleus fund.
+Then the Government made a grant of £20,000, and grants followed
+from the Governments of Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.
+
+Nine days after the plans were published arrangements were made
+to purchase the steamship Terra Nova, the largest and strongest
+of the old Scottish whalers. The original date chosen for sailing
+was August 1, 1910, but owing to the united efforts of those engaged
+upon the fitting out and stowing of the ship, she was able to leave
+Cardiff on June 15. Business, however, prevented Captain Scott from
+leaving England until a later date, and in consequence he sailed in
+the Saxon to South Africa, and there awaited the arrival of the
+Terra Nova.
+
+
+BRITISH ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910
+
+SHORE PARTIES
+
+Officers
+
+    Name                     Rank, &c.
+  Robert Falcon Scott      Captain, C.V.O., R.N.
+  Edward R. G. R. Evans    Lieutenant, R.N.
+  Victor L. A. Campbell    Lieutenant, R.N. (Emergency List)
+  Henry R. Bowers          Lieutenant, R.I.M.
+  Lawrence E. G. Oates     Captain 6th Inniskilling Dragoons.
+  G. Murray Levick         Surgeon, R.N.
+  Edward L. Atkinson       Surgeon, R.N., Parasitologist.
+
+Scientific Staff
+
+  Edward Adrian Wilson     B.A., M.B. (Cantab), Chief of the
+                           Scientific Staff, and Zoologist.
+  George C. Simpson        D.Sc., Meteorologist.
+  T. Griffith Taylor       B.A., B.Sc., B.E., Geologist.
+  Edward W. Nelson         Biologist
+  Frank Debenham           B.A., B.Sc., Geologist.
+  Charles S. Wright        B.A., Physicist.
+  Raymond E. Priestley     Geologist.
+  Herbert G. Ponting       F.R.G.S, Camera Artist.
+  Cecil H. Meares          In Charge of Dogs.
+  Bernard C. Day           Motor Engineer.
+  Apsley Cherry-Garrard    B.A., Asst. Zoologist.
+  Tryggve Gran             Sub-Lieutenant, Norwegian N.R.,
+                           B.A., Ski Expert.
+
+Men
+
+  W. Lashly                Chief Stoker, R.N.
+  W. W. Archer             Chief Steward, late R.N.
+  Thomas Clissold          Cook, late R.N.
+  Edgar Evans              Petty Officer, R.N.
+  Robert Forde             Petty Officer, R.N.
+  Thomas Crean             Petty Officer, R.N.
+  Thomas S. Williamson     Petty Officer, R.N.
+  Patrick Keohane          Petty Officer, R.N.
+  George P. Abbott         Petty Officer, R.N.
+  Frank V. Browning        Petty Officer, 2nd class, R.N.
+  Harry Dickason           Able Seaman, R.N.
+  F. J. Hooper             Steward, late R.N.
+  Anton Omelchenko         Groom.
+  Demetri Gerof            Dog Driver.
+
+SHIP'S PARTY
+
+Officers, &c.
+
+  Harry L. L. Pennell      Lieutenant, R.N.
+  Henry E. de P. Rennick   Lieutenant, R.N.
+  Wilfred M. Bruce         Lieutenant, R.N.R.
+  Francis R. H. Drake      Asst. Paymaster, R.N. (Retired),
+                           Secretary and Meteorologist in Ship.
+  Denis G. Lillie          M.A., Biologist in Ship.
+
+  James R. Dennistoun      In Charge of Mules in Ship.
+  Alfred B. Cheetham       R.N.R., Boatswain.
+  William Williams         Chief Engine-room Artificer, R.N.,
+                           2nd Engineer.
+  William A. Horton        Eng. Rm. Art. 3rd Class, R.N. 2nd Engineer.
+  Francis E. C. Davies     Leading Shipwright, R.N.
+  Frederick Parsons        Petty Officer, R.N.
+  William L. Heald         Late P.O., R.N.
+  Arthur S. Bailey         Petty Officer, 2nd Class, R.N.
+  Albert Balson            Leading Seaman, R.N.
+  Joseph Leese             Able Seaman, R.N.
+  John Hugh Mather         Petty Officer, R.N.V.R.
+  Robert Oliphant          Able Seaman.
+  Thomas F. McLeod         Able Seaman.
+  Mortimer McCarthy        Able Seaman.
+  William Knowles          Able Seaman.
+  Charles Williams         Able Seaman.
+  James Skelton            Able Seaman.
+  William McDonald         Able Seaman.
+  James Paton              Able Seaman.
+  Robert Brissenden        Leading Stoker, R.N.
+  Edward A. McKenzie       Leading Stoker, R.N.
+  William Burton           Leading Stoker, R.N.
+  Bernard J. Stone         Leading Stoker, R.N.
+  Angus McDonald           Fireman.
+  Thomas McGillon          Fireman.
+  Charles Lammas           Fireman.
+  W. H. Neale              Steward.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THROUGH STORMY SEAS
+
+  The ice was here, the ice was there,
+  The ice was all around:
+  It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
+  Like noises in a swound.
+  --COLERIDGE.
+
+No sooner was it known that Scott intended to lead another Antarctic
+expedition than he was besieged by men anxious to go with him. The
+selection of a small company from some eight thousand volunteers
+was both a difficult and a delicate task, but the fact that the
+applications were so numerous was at once a convincing proof of
+the interest shown in the expedition, and a decisive answer to
+the dismal cry that the spirit of romance and adventure no longer
+exists in the British race.
+
+On June 15, 1910, the Terra Nova left Cardiff upon her great
+mission, and after a successful voyage arrived, on October 28,
+at Lyttelton. There an enormous amount of work had to be done
+before she could be ready to leave civilization, but as usual
+the kindness received in New Zealand was 'beyond words.'
+
+A month of strenuous labor followed, and then, on November 26, they
+said farewell to Lyttelton, and after calling at Port Chalmers set
+out on Tuesday, the 29th, upon the last stage of their voyage. Two
+days later they encountered a stiff wind from the N. W. and a
+confused sea.
+
+'The ship a queer and not altogether cheerful sight under the
+circumstances.
+
+'Below one knows all space is packed as tight as human skill can
+devise--and on deck! Under the forecastle fifteen ponies close
+side by side, seven one side, eight the other, heads together
+and groom between--swaying, swaying continually to the plunging,
+irregular motion.'
+
+Outside the forecastle and to leeward of the fore hatch were four
+more ponies, and on either side of the main hatch were two very
+large packing-cases containing motor sledges, each 16 X 5 X 4.
+A third sledge stood across the break of the poop in the space
+hitherto occupied by the after winch, and all these cases were
+so heavily lashed with heavy chain and rope lashings that they
+were thought to be quite secure. The petrol for the sledges was
+contained in tins and drums protected in stout wooden packing-cases,
+which were ranged across the deck immediately in front of the
+poop and abreast the motor sledges.
+
+Round and about these packing-cases, stretching from the galley
+forward to the wheel aft, coal bags containing the deck cargo of
+coal were stacked; and upon the coal sacks, and upon and between
+the motor sledges, and upon the ice-house were the thirty-three
+dogs. Perforce they had to be chained up, and although they were
+given as much protection as possible, their position was far
+from pleasant. 'The group formed,' in Scott's opinion, 'a picture
+of wretched dejection: such a life is truly hard for these poor
+creatures.'
+
+The wind freshened with great rapidity on Thursday evening, and
+very soon the ship was plunging heavily and taking much water
+over the lee rail. Cases of all descriptions began to break
+loose on the upper deck, the principal trouble being caused by
+the loose coal bags, which were lifted bodily by the seas and
+swung against the lashed cases. These bags acted like battering
+rams, no lashings could possibly have withstood them, and so the
+only remedy was to set to work and heave coal sacks overboard and
+re-lash the cases. During this difficult and dangerous task seas
+continually broke over the men, and at such times they had to
+cling for dear life to some fixture to prevent themselves from
+being washed overboard. No sooner was some appearance of order
+restored than another unusually heavy wave tore away the lashings,
+and the work had to be done allover again.
+
+As the night wore on the sea and wind continued to rise, and the
+ship to plunge more and more. 'We shortened sail to main topsail
+and staysail, stopped engines and hove to, but to little purpose.'
+
+From Oates and Atkinson, who worked through the entire night,
+reports came that it was impossible to keep the ponies on their
+legs. But worse news was to follow, for in the early morning
+news came from the engine-room that the pumps had choked, and
+that the water had risen over the gratings.
+
+From that moment, about 4 A.M., the engine-room became the center
+of interest, but in spite of every effort the water still gained.
+Lashly and Williams, up to their necks in rushing water, stuck
+gamely to the work of clearing suctions, and for a time, with
+donkey engine and bilge pump sucking, it looked as if the water
+might be got under. But the hope was short-lived; five minutes
+of pumping invariably led to the same result--a general choking
+of the pumps.
+
+The ship was very deeply-laden and was in considerable danger
+of becoming waterlogged, in which condition anything might have
+happened. The hand pump produced nothing more than a dribble
+and its suction could not be reached, for as the water crept
+higher it got in contact with the boiler and eventually became
+so hot that no one could work at the suctions. A great struggle
+to conquer these misfortunes followed, but Williams had at last
+to confess that he was beaten and must draw fires.
+
+'What was to be done? Things for the moment appeared very black.
+The sea seemed higher than ever; it came over lee rail and poop,
+a rush of green water; the ship wallowed in it; a great piece of
+the bulwark carried clean away. The bilge pump is dependent on
+the main engine. To use the pump it was necessary to go ahead.
+It was at such times that the heaviest seas swept in over the
+lee rail; over and over again the rail, from the forerigging
+to the main, was covered by a solid sheet of curling water which
+swept aft and high on the poop. On one occasion I was waist deep
+when standing on the rail of the poop.'
+
+All that could be done for the time being was to organize the
+afterguard to work buckets, and to keep the men steadily going on
+the choked hand-pumps, which practically amounted to an attempt
+to bale out the ship! For a day and a night the string of buckets
+was passed up a line from the engine-room; and while this arduous
+work was going on the officers and men sang chanteys, and never
+for a moment lost their good spirits.
+
+In the meantime an effort was made to get at the suction of the
+pumps; and by 10 P.M. on Friday evening a hole in the engine-room
+bulkhead had been completed. Then E. R. Evans, wriggling over the
+coal, found his way to the pump shaft and down it, and cleared
+the suction of the coal balls (a mixture of coal and oil) which
+were choking it. Soon afterwards a good stream of water came
+from the pump, and it was evident that the main difficulty had
+been overcome. Slowly the water began to decrease in the
+engine-room, and by 4 A.M. on Saturday morning the bucket-parties
+were able to stop their labors.
+
+The losses caused by this gale were serious enough, but they
+might easily have been worse. Besides the damage to the bulwarks
+of the ship, two ponies, one dog, ten tons of coal, sixty-five
+gallons of petrol, and a case of biologists' spirit were lost.
+Another dog was washed away with such force that his chain broke
+and he disappeared, but the next wave miraculously washed him
+back on board. In a few hours everyone was hopeful again, but
+anxiety on account of the ponies remained. With the ship pitching
+heavily to a south-westerly swell, at least two of these
+long-suffering animals looked sadly in need of a spell of rest,
+and Scott's earnest prayer was that there might be no more gales.
+'December ought to be a fine month in the Ross Sea; it always
+has been, and just now conditions point to fine weather. Well,
+we must be prepared for anything, but I'm anxious, anxious about
+these animals of ours.'
+
+Meanwhile Bowers and Campbell had worked untiringly to put things
+straight on deck, and with the coal removed from the upper deck
+and the petrol re-stored, the ship was in much better condition
+to fight the gales. 'Another day,' Scott wrote on Tuesday, December
+6, 'ought to put us beyond the reach of westerly gales'; but two
+days later the ship was once more plunging against a stiff breeze
+and moderate sea, and his anxiety about the ponies was greater
+than ever. The dogs, however, had recovered wonderfully from the
+effects of the great gale, their greatest discomfort being that
+they were almost constantly wet.
+
+During Friday, December 9, some very beautiful bergs were passed,
+the heights of which varied from sixty to eighty feet. Good progress
+was made during this day, but the ice streams thickened as they
+advanced, and on either side of them fields of pack began to
+appear. Yet, after the rough weather they had been having, the
+calm sea was a blessing even if the ice had arrived before it was
+expected. 'One can only imagine the relief and comfort afforded
+to the ponies, but the dogs are visibly cheered and the human
+element is full of gaiety. The voyage seems full of promise in
+spite of the imminence of delay.'
+
+Already Scott was being worried by the pace at which the coal
+was going, and he determined if the pack became thick to put
+out the fires and wait for the ice to open. Very carefully all
+the evidence of former voyages had been examined so that the
+best meridian to go south on might be chosen, and the conclusion
+arrived at was that the 178 W. was the best. They entered the
+pack more or less on this meridian, and were rewarded by meeting
+worse conditions than any ship had ever experienced--worse, indeed,
+than Scott imagined to be possible on any meridian which they
+might have chosen. But as very little was known about the movements
+of the pack the difficulties of making a choice may very easily be
+imagined, and, in spite of disappointments, Scott's opinion that
+the 178 W. was the best meridian did not change. 'The situation
+of the main bodies of pack,' he says, 'and the closeness with
+which the floes are packed depend almost entirely on the prevailing
+winds. One cannot tell what winds have prevailed before one's
+arrival; therefore one cannot know much about the situation or
+density. Within limits the density is changing from day to day
+and even from hour to hour; such changes depend on the wind,
+but it may not necessarily be a local wind, so that at times
+they seem almost mysterious. One sees the floes pressing closely
+against one another at a given time, and an hour or two afterwards
+a gap of a foot or more may be seen between each. When the floes
+are pressed together it is difficult and sometimes impossible
+to force a way through, but when there is release of pressure
+the sum of many little gaps allows one to take a zigzag path.'
+
+During Sunday they lay tight in the pack, and after service at
+10 A.M. all hands exercised themselves on ski over the floes and
+got some delightful exercise. 'I have never thought of anything
+as good as this life. The novelty, interest, color, animal life,
+and good fellowship go to make up an almost ideal picnic just at
+present,' one of the company wrote on that same day--an abundant
+proof that if delays came they brought their compensations with
+them.
+
+With rapid and complete changes of prospect they managed to
+progress--on the Monday--with much bumping and occasional stoppages,
+but on the following day they were again firmly and tightly wedged
+in the pack. To most of them, however, the novelty of the experience
+prevented any sense of impatience, though to Scott the strain of
+waiting and wondering what he ought to do as regards the question
+of coal was bound to be heavy.
+
+This time of waiting was by no means wasted, for Gran gave hours
+of instruction in the use of ski, and Meares took out some of
+the fattest dogs and exercised them with a sledge. Observations
+were also constantly taken, while Wilson painted some delightful
+pictures and Ponting took a number of beautiful photographs of
+the pack and bergs. But as day followed day and hopes of progress
+were not realized, Scott, anxious to be free, decided on Monday,
+December 19, to push west. 'Anything to get out of these terribly
+heavy floes. Great patience is the only panacea for our ill case.
+It is bad luck.'
+
+Over and over again when the end of their troubles seemed to be
+reached, they found that the thick pack was once more around
+them. And what to do under the circumstances called for most
+difficult decisions. If the fires were let out it meant a dead
+loss of two tons of coal when the boilers were again heated.
+But these two tons only covered a day under banked fires, so
+that for anything longer than twenty-four hours it was a saving
+to put out the fires. Thus at each stoppage Scott was called
+upon to decide how long it was likely to last.
+
+Christmas Day came with the ice still surrounding the ship, but
+although the scene was 'altogether too Christmassy,' a most merry
+evening was spent. For five hours the officers sat round the
+table and sang lustily, each one of them having to contribute
+two songs to the entertainment. 'It is rather a surprising
+circumstance,' Scott remarks, 'that such an unmusical party should
+be so keen on singing.'
+
+Christmas, however, came and went without any immediate prospect
+of release, the only bright side of this exasperating delay being
+that everyone was prepared to exert himself to the utmost, quite
+regardless of the results of his labors. But on Wednesday, December
+28, the ponies, despite the unremitting care and attention that
+Oates gave to them, were the cause of the gravest anxiety. 'These
+animals are now the great consideration, balanced as they are
+against the coal expenditure.'
+
+By this time, although the ice was still all around them, many
+of the floes were quite thin, and even the heavier ice appeared
+to be breakable. So, after a consultation with Wilson, Scott
+decided to raise steam, and two days later the ship was once
+more in the open sea.
+
+From the 9th to the 30th they had been in the pack, and during
+this time 370 miles had been covered in a direct line. Sixty-one
+tons [Footnote: When the Terra Nova left Lyttelton she had 460
+tons of coal on board.] of coal had been used, an average of six
+miles to the ton, and although these were not pleasant figures
+to contemplate, Scott considered that under the exceptional
+conditions they might easily have been worse. For the ship herself
+he had nothing but praise to give. 'No other ship, not even the
+Discovery, would have come through so well.... As a result I have
+grown strangely attached to the Terra Nova. As she bumped the
+floes with mighty shocks, crushing and grinding her way through
+some, twisting and turning to avoid others, she seemed like a
+living thing fighting a great fight. If only she had more economical
+engines she would be suitable in all respects.'
+
+Scientifically as much as was possible had been done, but many
+of the experts had of necessity been idle in regard to their
+own specialties, though none of them were really idle; for those
+who had no special work to do were magnificently eager to find
+any kind of work that required to be done. 'Everyone strives to
+help everyone else, and not a word of complaint or anger has
+been heard on board. The inner life of our small community is
+very pleasant to think upon, and very wonderful considering the
+extremely small space in which we are confined. The attitude
+of the men is equally worthy of admiration. In the forecastle
+as in the wardroom there is a rush to be first when work is to
+be done, and the same desire to sacrifice selfish consideration
+to the success of the expedition. It is very good to be able to
+write in such high praise of one's companions, and I feel that
+the possession of such support ought to ensure success. Fortune
+would be in a hard mood indeed if it allowed such a combination
+of knowledge, experience, ability, and enthusiasm to achieve
+nothing.'
+
+Fortune's wheel, however, was not yet prepared to turn in their
+favor, for after a very few hours of the open sea a southern
+blizzard met them. In the morning watch of December 31, the wind
+and sea increased and the outlook was very distressing, but at
+6 A.M. ice was sighted ahead. Under ordinary conditions the safe
+course would have been to go about and stand to the east, but
+on this occasion Scott was prepared to run the risk of trouble
+if he could get the ponies into smoother water. Soon they passed
+a stream of ice over which the sea was breaking heavily, and
+the danger of being among loose floes in such a sea was acutely
+realized. But presently they came to a more compact body of floes,
+and running behind this they were agreeably surprised to find
+themselves in comparatively smooth water. There they lay to in
+a sort of ice bay, and from a dangerous position had achieved
+one that was safe as long as their temporary shelter lasted.
+
+As the day passed their protection, though still saving them
+from the heavy swell, gradually diminished, but 1910 did not mean
+to depart without giving them an Old Year's gift and surprise. 'At
+10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant but
+splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were in
+sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter
+from this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark
+as Sabine itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it.
+I believe we could have seen it at a distance of thirty or forty
+miles farther--such is the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.'
+
+The New Year brought better weather with it, and such good progress
+was made that by mid-day on Tuesday, January 3, the ship reached
+the Barrier five miles east of Cape Crozier. During the voyage
+they had often discussed the idea of making their winter station
+at this Cape, and the prospect had seemed to become increasingly
+fascinating the more they talked of it.
+
+But a great disappointment awaited them, for after one of the
+whale boats had been lowered and Scott, Wilson, Griffith Taylor,
+Priestley, and E. R. Evans had been pulled towards the shore,
+they discovered that the swell made it impossible for them to
+land.
+
+'No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is denied
+us.'
+
+On the top of a floe they could see an old Emperor penguin molting
+and a young one shedding its down. This was an age and stage of
+development of the Emperor chick of which they were ignorant,
+but fortune decreed that this chick should be undisturbed. Of
+this incident Wilson wrote in his Journal: 'A landing was out
+of the question.... But I assure you it was tantalizing to me,
+for there, about 6 feet above us on a small dirty piece of the
+old bay ice about ten feet square, one living Emperor penguin
+chick was standing disconsolately stranded, and close by stood
+one faithful old Emperor parent asleep. This young Emperor was
+still in the down, a most interesting fact in the bird's life
+history at which we had rightly guessed, but which no one had
+actually observed before.... This bird would have been a treasure
+to me, but we could not risk life for it, so it had to remain
+where it was.'
+
+Sadly and reluctantly they had to give up hopes of making their
+station at Cape Crozier, and this was all the harder to bear
+because every detail of the shore promised well for a wintering
+party. There were comfortable quarters for the hut, ice for water
+snow for the animals, good slopes for skiing, proximity to the
+Barrier and to the rookeries of two types of penguins, good ground
+for biological work, a fairly easy approach to the Southern Road
+with no chance of being cut off, and so forth. 'It is a thousand
+pities to have to abandon such a spot.'
+
+The Discovery's post-office was still standing as erect as when it
+had been planted, and comparisons between what was before their
+eyes and old photographs showed that no change at all seemed to
+have occurred anywhere--a result that in the case of the Barrier
+caused very great surprise.
+
+In the meantime all hands were employed in making a running survey,
+the program of which was:
+
+  Bruce continually checking speed with hand log.
+
+  Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.
+  Nelson noting results.
+
+  Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.
+  Cherry-Garrard noting results.
+
+  Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.
+  Atkinson noting results.
+
+  Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.
+  Wright noting results.
+
+  Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.
+  Drake noting results.
+
+We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we met it to
+the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have changed
+since Discovery days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in
+the same place.'
+
+Very early on Wednesday morning they rounded Cape Bird and came
+in sight of Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains. 'It was
+good to see them again, and perhaps after all we are better this
+side of the Island. It gives one a homely feeling to see such
+a familiar scene.' Scott's great wish now was to find a place
+for winter quarters that would not easily be cut off from the
+Barrier, and a cape, which in the, Discovery days had been called
+'the Skuary,' was chosen. 'It was separated from old Discovery
+quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue,
+and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in
+the season, and that when they froze over again the ice would
+soon become firm.'
+
+There Scott, Wilson, and E. R. Evans landed, and at a glance saw,
+as they expected, that the place was ideal for their wintering
+station. A spot for the hut was chosen on a beach facing northwest
+and well protected behind by numerous small hills; but the most
+favorable circumstance of all in connection with this cape, which
+was re-christened Cape Evans, was the strong chance of communication
+being established at an early date with Cape Armitage. [Footnote:
+The extreme south point of the Island, 12 miles further, on one
+of whose minor headlands, Hut Point, stood the Discovery hut.]
+
+Not a moment was wasted, and while Scott was on shore Campbell
+took the first steps towards landing the stores.
+
+Fortunately the weather was gloriously calm and fine, and the
+landing began under the happiest conditions. Two of the motors
+were soon hoisted out, and in spite of all the bad weather and
+the tons of sea-water that had washed over them the sledges and
+all the accessories appeared to be in perfect condition. Then
+came the turn of the ponies, and although it was difficult to
+make some of them enter the horse box, Oates rose to the occasion
+and got most of them in by persuasion, while the ones which refused
+to be persuaded were simply lifted in by the sailors. 'Though all
+are thin and some few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised
+at the evident vitality which they still possessed--some were even
+skittish. I cannot express the relief when the whole seventeen were
+safely picketed on the floe.'
+
+Meares and the dogs were out early on the Wednesday morning,
+and ran to and fro during most of the day with light loads. The
+chief trouble with the dogs was due to the fatuous conduct of
+the penguins, the latter showing a devouring curiosity in the
+proceedings and a total disregard for their own safety, with the
+result that a number of them were killed in spite of innumerable
+efforts to teach the penguins to keep out of reach, they only
+squawked and ducked as much as to say, 'What's it got to do with
+you, you silly ass? Let us alone.' These incidents naturally
+demoralized the dogs and annoyed Meares, who while trying to stop
+one sledge, fell into the middle of the dogs and was carried along
+until they reached the penguins of their desire.
+
+The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing
+one and Nelson the other. 'It is early to call them a success,
+but they are certainly extremely promising.' Before night the
+site for the hut was leveled, and the erecting party was encamped
+on shore in a large tent with a supply of food for eight days.
+Nearly all the timber, &c., for the hut and a supply of food
+for both ponies and dogs had also been landed.
+
+Despite this most strenuous day's labor, all hands were up again
+at 5 A.M. on Thursday.
+
+'Words cannot express the splendid way in which everyone works
+and gradually the work gets organized. I was a little late on the
+scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most extraordinary
+scene. Some six or seven killer whales, old and young, were skirting
+the fast floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived
+rapidly, almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly
+appeared astern, raising their snouts out of water. I had heard
+weird stories of these beasts, but had never associated serious
+danger with them. Close to the water's edge lay the wire stern
+rope of the ship, and our two Esquimaux dogs were tethered to
+this. I did not think of connecting the movements of the whales
+with this fact, and seeing them so close I shouted to Ponting,
+who was standing abreast of the ship. He seized his camera and
+ran towards the floe edge to get a close picture of the beasts,
+which had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the whole
+floe under him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments.
+One could hear the "booming" noise as the whales rose under the
+ice and struck it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under
+the ice, setting it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his
+feet and was able to fly to security; by an extraordinary chance
+also, the splits had been made around and between the dogs, so
+that neither of them fell into the water. Then it was clear that
+the whales shared our astonishment, for one after another their
+huge hideous heads shot vertically into the air through the cracks
+which they had made... There cannot be a doubt that they looked
+up to see what had happened to Ponting and the dogs....
+
+'Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually
+skirt the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap
+up anyone who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but
+the facts that they could display such deliberate cunning, that
+they were able to break ice of such thickness (at least 2-1/2
+feet), and that they could act in unison, were a revelation to
+us. It is clear that they are endowed with singular intelligence,
+and in future we shall treat that intelligence with every respect.'
+
+On Thursday the motor sledges did good work, and hopes that they
+might prove to be reliable began to increase. Infinite trouble
+had been taken to obtain the most suitable material for Polar
+work, and the three motor sledge tractors were the outcome of
+experiments made at Lantaret in France and at Lillehammer and
+Fefor in Norway, with sledges built by the Wolseley Motor Company
+from suggestions offered principally by B. T. Hamilton, R. W.
+Skelton, and Scott himself. With his rooted objection to cruelty
+in any shape or form, Scott had an intense, and almost pathetic,
+desire that these sledges should be successful; over and over
+again he expressed his hopes and fears of them.
+
+With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties working hard,
+the transportation progressed rapidly on the next two days, the
+only drawback being that the ice was beginning to get thin in the
+cracks and on some of the floes. Under these circumstances the
+necessity for wasting no time was evident, and so on the Sunday
+the third motor was got out and placed on the ice, and Scott,
+leaving Campbell to find the best crossing for the motor, started
+for the shore with a single man load.
+
+Soon after the motor had been brought out Campbell ordered that
+it should be towed on to the firm ice, because the ice near the
+ship was breaking up. And then, as they were trying to rush the
+machine over the weak place, Williamson suddenly went through;
+and while he was being hauled out the ice under the motor was
+seen to give, and slowly the machine went right through and
+disappeared. The men made strenuous efforts to keep hold of the
+rope, but it cut through the ice towards them with an increasing
+strain, and one after another they were obliged to let go. Half
+a minute later nothing remained but a big hole, and one of the
+two best motors was lying at the bottom of the sea.
+
+The ice, too, was hourly becoming more dangerous, and it was
+clear that those who were on shore were practically cut off from
+the ship. So in the evening Scott went to the ice-edge farther to
+the north, and found a place where the ship could come and be near
+ice heavy enough for sledding. Then he semaphored directions to
+Pennell, and on the following morning the ship worked her way
+along the ice-edge to the spot that had been chosen.
+
+A good solid road was formed right up to the ship, and again
+the work of transportation went on with the greatest energy. In
+this Bowers proved 'a perfect treasure,' there was not a single
+case he did not know nor a single article on which he could not
+at once place his hand, and every case as it came on shore was
+checked by him.
+
+On Tuesday night, January 10, after six days in McMurdo Sound,
+the landing was almost completed, and early in the afternoon of
+Thursday a message was sent from the ship that nothing remained on
+board except mutton, books, pictures, and the pianola. 'So at last
+we really are a self-contained party ready for all emergencies. We
+are LANDED eight days after our arrival--a very good record.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+DEPÔT LAYING TO ONE TON CAMP
+
+  And the deed of high endeavour
+    Was no more to the favoured few.
+  But brain and heart were the measure
+    Of what every man might do.
+  --RENNELL RODD.
+
+While the landing was being carried out, the building party had
+worked so rapidly that, if necessity had arisen, the hut could
+have been inhabited by the 12th; at the same time another small
+party had been engaged in making a cave in the ice which was to
+serve as a larder, and this strenuous work continued until the
+cave was large enough to hold all the mutton, and a considerable
+quantity of seal and penguin. Close to this larder Simpson and
+Wright were busy in excavating for the differential magnetic hut.
+
+In every way indeed such good progress had been made that Scott
+could begin to think about the depôt journey. The arrangements
+of this he discussed with Bowers, to whose grasp of the situation
+he gives the highest praise. 'He enters into one's idea's at once,
+and evidently thoroughly understands the principles of the game.'
+
+Of these arrangements Wilson wrote in his journal: 'He (Scott)
+wants me to be a driver with himself, Meares, and Teddie Evans,
+and this is what I would have chosen had I had a free choice
+of all. The dogs run in two teams and each team wants two men.
+It means a lot of running as they are being driven now, but it
+is the fastest and most interesting work of all, and we go ahead
+of the whole caravan with lighter loads and at a faster rate....
+About this time next year may I be there or thereabouts! With so
+many young bloods in the heyday of youth and strength beyond my
+own I feel there will be a most difficult task in making choice
+towards the end and a most keen competition--and a universal lack
+of selfishness and self-seeking, with a complete absence of any
+jealous feeling in any single one of any of the comparatively
+large number who at present stand a chance of being on the last
+piece next summer.... I have never been thrown in with a more
+unselfish lot of men--each one doing his utmost fair and square
+in the most cheery manner possible.'
+
+Sunday, January 15, was observed as a 'day of rest,' and at 10
+A.M. the men and officers streamed over from the ship, and Scott
+read Divine Service on the beach. Then he had a necessary but
+unpalatable task to perform, because some of the ponies had not
+fulfilled expectations, and Campbell had to be told that the
+two allotted to him must be exchanged for a pair of inferior
+animals. At this time the party to be led by Campbell was known
+as the Eastern Party, but, owing to the impossibility of landing
+on King Edward's Land, they were eventually taken to the north
+part of Victoria Land, and thus came to be known as the Northern
+Party. Scott's reluctance to make the alteration in ponies is
+evident, but in writing of it he says: 'He (Campbell) took it
+like the gentleman he is, thoroughly appreciating the reason.'
+
+On that same afternoon Scott and Meares took a sledge and nine
+dogs, some provisions, a cooker and sleeping-bags, and started
+to Hut Point; but, on their arrival at the old Discovery hut,
+a most unpleasant surprise awaited them, for to their chagrin
+they found that some of Shackleton's party, who had used the
+hut for shelter, had left it in an uninhabitable state.
+
+'There was something too depressing in finding the old hut in such
+a desolate condition.... To camp outside and feel that all the old
+comfort and cheer had departed, was dreadfully heartrending. I went
+to bed thoroughly depressed. It seems a fundamental expression of
+civilized human sentiment that men who come to such places as this
+should leave what comfort they can to welcome those who follow, and
+finding that such a simple duty had been neglected by our immediate
+predecessors oppressed me horribly.'
+
+After a bad night they went up the hills, and there Scott found
+much less snow than he had ever seen. The ski run was completely
+cut through in two places, the Gap and Observation Hill were almost
+bare, on the side of Arrival Heights was a great bare slope, and
+on the top of Crater Heights was an immense bare tableland. The
+paint was so fresh and the inscription so legible on the cross
+put up to the memory of Vince that it looked as if it had just
+been erected, and although the old flagstaff was down it could
+with very little trouble have been put up again. Late in the
+afternoon of Monday Scott and Meares returned to Cape Evans,
+and on the following day the party took up their abode in the hut.
+
+'The word "hut,"' Scott wrote, 'is misleading. Our residence is
+really a house of considerable size, in every respect the finest
+that has ever been erected in the Polar regions. The walls and
+roof have double thickness of boarding and seaweed insulation
+on both sides of the frames. The roof with all its coverings
+weighs six tons. The outer shell is wonderfully solid therefore
+and the result is extraordinary comfort and warmth inside, whilst
+the total weight is comparatively small. It amply repays the
+time and attention given to its planning.
+
+'On the south side Bowers has built a long annex, to contain
+spare clothing and ready provisions, on the north there is a
+solid stable to hold our fifteen ponies in the winter. At present
+these animals are picketed on long lines laid on a patch of snow
+close by, above them, on a patch of black sand and rock, the
+dogs extend in other long lines. Behind them again is a most
+convenient slab of hard ice in which we have dug two caverns.
+The first is a larder now fully stocked with seals, penguins,
+mutton, and beef. The other is devoted to science in the shape
+of differential magnetic instruments which will keep a constant
+photographic record of magnetic changes. Outside these caverns
+is another little hut for absolute magnetic observations, and
+above them on a small hill, the dominant miniature peak of the
+immediate neighborhood, stand the meteorological instruments
+and a flagstaff carrying the Union Jack.
+
+'If you can picture our house nestling below this small hill
+on a long stretch of black sand, with many tons of provision
+cases ranged in neat blocks in front of it and the sea lapping
+the ice-foot below, you will have some idea of our immediate
+vicinity. As for our wider surroundings it would be difficult
+to describe their beauty in sufficiently glowing terms. Cape
+Evans is one of the many spurs of Erebus and the one that stands
+closest under the mountain, so that always towering above us we
+have the grand snowy peak with its smoking summit. North and
+south of us are deep bays, beyond which great glaciers come
+rippling over the lower slopes to thrust high blue-walled snouts
+into the sea. The sea is blue before us, dotted with shining
+bergs or ice floes, whilst far over the Sound, yet so bold and
+magnificent as to appear near, stand the beautiful Western
+Mountains with their numerous lofty peaks, their deep glacial
+valley and clear-cut scarps, a vision of mountain scenery that
+can have few rivals.
+
+'Ponting is the most delighted of men; he declares this is the
+most beautiful spot he has ever seen, and spends all day and
+most of the night in what he calls "gathering it in" with camera
+and cinematograph.
+
+'I have told you of the surroundings of our house but nothing of
+its internal arrangements. They are in keeping with the dignity
+of the mansion.
+
+'The officers (16) have two-thirds of the interior, the men (9)
+the remaining third; the dividing line is fixed by a wall of
+cases containing things which suffer from being frozen.
+
+'In the officers' quarters there is an immense dark room, and
+next it on one side a space devoted to the physicist and his
+instruments, and on the other a space devoted to charts,
+chronometers and instruments generally.
+
+'I have a tiny half cabin of my own, next this Wilson and Evans
+have their beds. On the other side is a space set apart for five
+beds, which are occupied by Meares, Oates, Atkinson, Garrard and
+Bowers. Taylor, Debenham and Gran have another proportional space
+opposite. Nelson and Day have a little cabin of their own with a
+bench. Lastly Simpson and Wright occupy beds bordering the space
+set apart for their instruments and work. In the center is a
+12-foot table with plenty of room for passing behind its chairs....
+
+'To sum up, the arrangements are such that everyone is completely
+comfortable and conveniently placed for his work--in fact we
+could not be better housed. Of course a good many of us will
+have a small enough chance of enjoying the comforts of our home.
+We shall be away sledding late this year and off again early
+next season, but even for us it will be pleasant to feel that
+such comfort awaits our return.'
+
+So in less than a fortnight after the arrival in McMurdo Sound
+they had absolutely settled down, and were anxious to start upon
+their depôt journey as soon as the ponies had recovered thoroughly
+from the effects of the voyage. These autumn journeys, however,
+required much thought and preparation, mainly because the prospect
+of the parties being cut off from their winter quarters necessitated
+a great deal of food being taken both for men and animals. Sledding
+gear and wintering boots were served out to the selected travelers,
+sledges were prepared by P.O. Evans and Crean, and most of the
+stores were tested and found to be most excellent in quality.
+'Our clothing is as good as good. In fact first and last, running
+through the whole extent of our outfit, I can say with pride
+that there is not a single arrangement which I would have had
+altered.... Everything looks hopeful for the depôt journey if
+only we can get our stores and ponies past the Glacier Tongue.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 20th, but the following day brought a
+serious suspense with it; for during the afternoon came a report
+that the Terra Nova was ashore, and Scott, hastening to the Cape,
+saw at once that she was firmly fixed and in a very uncomfortable
+position.
+
+Visions of the ship being unable to return to New Zealand arose in
+his mind 'with sickening pertinacity,' and it was characteristic of
+him that at the moment when there was every prospect of a complete
+disarrangement of well-laid plans, he found his one consolation in
+determining that, whatever happened, nothing should interfere with
+the southern work.
+
+The only possible remedy seemed to be an extensive lightening of
+the ship with boats, as the tide had evidently been high when she
+struck. Scott, with two or three companions, watched anxiously
+from the shore while the men on board shifted cargo aft, but no
+ray of hope came until the ship was seen to be turning very slowly,
+and then they saw the men running from side to side and knew that
+an attempt was being made to roll her off. At first the rolling
+produced a more rapid turning movement, and then she seemed again
+to hang though only for a short time. Meanwhile the engines had
+been going astern and presently a slight movement became apparent,
+but those who were watching the ship did not know that she was
+getting clear until they heard the cheers on board. Then she
+gathered stern way and was clear.
+
+'The relief was enormous. The wind dropped as she came off, and
+she is now securely moored off the northern ice-edge, where I
+hope the greater number of her people are finding rest. For here
+and now I must record the splendid manner in which these men
+are working. I find it difficult to express my admiration for
+the manner in which the ship is handled and worked under these
+very trying circumstances... Pennell has been over to tell me
+about it to-night; I think I like him more every day.'
+
+On that same day Meares and Oates went to the Glacier Tongue
+and satisfied themselves that the ice was good; and with the
+25th fixed for the date of departure it was not too much to hope
+that the ice would remain for three or four more days. The ponies
+for Campbell's party were put on board on the 22nd, but when
+Scott got up at 5 A.M. on the following morning he saw, to his
+astonishment, that the ice was going out of the bay in a solid
+mass. Then everything was rushed on at top speed, and a wonderful
+day's work resulted. All the forage, food, sledges and equipment
+were got off to the ship at once, the dogs followed; in short
+everything to do with the depôt party was hurriedly put on board
+except the ponies, which were to cross the Cape and try to get
+over the Southern Road on the morning of the 24th.
+
+The Southern Road was the one feasible line of communication
+between the new station at Cape Evans and the Discovery hut,
+for the rugged mountains and crevassed ice-slopes of Ross Island
+prevented a passage by land. The Road provided level going below
+the cliffs of the ice-foot except where disturbed by the descending
+glacier; and there it was necessary to cross the body of the
+glacier itself. It consisted of the more enduring ice in the bays
+and the sea-ice along the coast, which only stayed fast for the
+season. Thus it was most important to get safely over the dangerous
+part of this Road before the seasonal going-out of the sea-ice. To
+wait until after the ice went out and the ship could sail to Hut
+Point would have meant both uncertainty and delay. Scott knew well
+enough that the Road might not hold for many more hours, and it
+actually broke up on the very day after the party had passed.
+
+Early on Tuesday, January 24, a boat from the ship fetched Scott
+and the Western Party; and at the same time the ponies were led
+out of the camp, Wilson and Meares going ahead of them to test
+the track. No sooner was Scott on board than he was taken to
+inspect Lillie's catch of sea animals. 'It was wonderful, quantities
+of sponges, isopods, pentapods, large shrimps, corals, &c. &c.;
+but the pièce de résistance was the capture of several bucketsful
+of cephalodiscus of which only seven pieces had been previously
+caught. Lillie is immensely pleased, feeling that it alone repays
+the whole enterprise.' In the forenoon the ship skirted the Island,
+and with a telescope those on board could watch the string of
+ponies steadily progressing over the sea-ice past the Razor Back
+Islands; and, as soon as they were seen to be well advanced, the
+ship steamed on to the Glacier Tongue, and made fast in the narrow
+angle made by the sea-ice with the glacier.
+
+Then, while Campbell investigated a broad crack in the sea ice on
+the Southern Road, Scott went to meet the ponies, which, without
+much difficulty, were got on to the Tongue, across the glacier,
+and then were picketed on the sea-ice close to the ship. But
+when Campbell returned with the news that the big crack was 30
+feet across, it was evident that they must get past it on the
+glacier, and Scott asked him to peg out a road clear of cracks.
+
+Soon afterwards Oates reported that the ponies were ready to
+start again, and they were led along; Campbell's road, their
+loads having already been taken on the floe. At first all went
+well, but when the animals got down on the floe level and Oates
+led across an old snowed-up crack, the third pony made a jump at
+the edge and sank to its stomach in the middle. Gradually it
+sank deeper and deeper until only its head and forelegs showed
+above the slush. With some trouble ropes were attached to these,
+and the poor animal, looking very weak and miserable, was eventually
+pulled out.
+
+After this experience the other five ponies were led farther
+round to the west and were got safely out on the floe; a small
+feed was given to them, and then they were started off with their
+loads.
+
+The dogs in the meantime were causing some excitement for, starting
+on hard ice with a light load, they obviously preferred speed
+to security. Happily, however, no accident happened, and Scott,
+writing from Glacier Tongue on January 24, was able to say: 'All
+have arrived safely, and this evening we start our sledges south.
+I expect we shall have to make three relays to get all our stores
+on to the Barrier some fifteen miles away. The ship is to land
+a geologising party on the west side of the Sound, and then to
+proceed to King Edward's Land to put the Eastern party on short.'
+
+The geologising party consisted of Griffith Taylor, Debenham,
+Wright, and P.O. Evans, and for reasons already mentioned the
+Eastern party were eventually known as the Northern party.
+
+On the night of the 24th Scott camped six miles from the glacier
+and two miles from Hut Point, he and Wilson having driven one
+team of dogs, while Meares and E. Evans drove the other. But on
+the following day Scott drove his team to the ship, and when the
+men had been summoned aft he thanked them for their splendid work.
+
+'They have behaved like bricks and a finer lot of fellows never
+sailed in a ship.... It was a little sad to say farewell to all
+these good fellows and Campbell and his men. I do most heartily
+trust that all will be successful in their ventures, for indeed
+their unselfishness and their generous high spirit deserves reward.
+God bless them.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+How completely Scott's hopes were realized in the case of Campbell's
+party is now well known. Nothing more miraculous than the story of
+their adventures has ever been told. The party consisted of Campbell,
+Levick, Priestley, Abbott, Browning, and Dickason, and the courage
+shown by the leader and his companions in facing endless difficulties
+and privations has met with the unstinted admiration that it most
+thoroughly deserved.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+For the depôt laying journey Scott's party consisted of 12 men
+(Wilson, Bowers, Oates, Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, E. Evans, Gran,
+Meares, Forde, Keohane, Crean, and himself), 8 ponies and 26 dogs.
+Of the dogs he felt at this time more than a little doubtful,
+but the ponies were in his opinion bound to be a success. 'They
+work with such extraordinary steadiness, stepping out briskly and
+cheerfully, following in each other's tracks. The great drawback
+is the ease with which they sink in soft snow: they go through
+in lots of places where the men scarcely make an impression--they
+struggle pluckily when they sink, but it is trying to watch them.'
+
+In three days he hoped that all the loads would be transported to
+complete safety, and on Friday, the 27th, only one load remained
+to be brought from Hut Point. The strenuous labor of this day
+tired out the dogs, but the ponies worked splendidly. On the
+next day, however, both Keohane's and Bowers' ponies showed signs
+of breaking down, and Oates began to take a gloomy view of the
+situation. In compensation for these misfortunes the dogs, as they
+got into better condition, began to do excellent work. During
+Sunday they ran two loads for over a mile past the stores on the
+Barrier to the spot chosen for 'Safety Camp,' the big home depôt.
+'I don't think that any part of the Barrier is likely to go, but
+it's just as well to be prepared for everything, and our camp
+must deserve its distinctive title of "Safety."'
+
+By this time the control of the second dog team had been definitely
+handed over to Wilson, and in his journal he gives an admirable
+account of his experiences. 'The seals have been giving a lot of
+trouble, that is just to Meares and myself with our dogs....
+Occasionally when one pictures oneself quite away from trouble
+of that kind, an old seal will pop his head up at a blowhole
+a few yards ahead of the team, and they are all on top of him
+before one can say "knife"! Then one has to rush in with the
+whip--and everyone of the team of eleven jumps over the harness
+of the dog next to him, and the harnesses become a muddle that
+takes much patience to unravel, not to mention care lest the
+whole team should get away with the sledge and its load, and
+leave one behind.... I never did get left the whole of this depôt
+journey, but I was often very near it, and several times had
+only time to seize a strap or a part of the sledge, and be dragged
+along helter-skelter over everything that came in the way, till
+the team got sick of galloping and one could struggle to one's
+feet again. One gets very wary and wide-awake when one has to
+manage a team of eleven dogs and a sledge load by oneself, but
+it was a most interesting experience, and I had a delightful
+leader, "Stareek" by name--Russian for "Old Man," and he was
+the most wise old man.... Dog driving like this in the orthodox
+manner is a very different thing from the beastly dog driving
+we perpetrated in the Discovery days.... I got to love all my team
+and they got to know me well.... Stareek is quite a ridiculous
+"old man" and quite the nicest, quietest, cleverest old dog I
+have ever come across. He looks in face as if he knew all the
+wickedness of all the world and all its cares, and as if he were
+bored to death by them.'
+
+When Safety Camp was reached there was no need for haste until
+they started upon their journey. 'It is only when we start that we
+must travel fast.' Work, however, on the Monday was more strenuous
+than successful, for the ponies sank very deep and had great
+difficulty in bringing up their loads. During the afternoon Scott
+disclosed his plan of campaign, which was to go forward with
+five weeks' food for men and animals, then to depôt a fortnight's
+supply after twelve or thirteen days and return to Safety Camp.
+The loads for ponies under this arrangement worked out at a little
+over 600 lbs., and for the dog teams at 700 lbs., both apart from
+sledges. Whether the ponies could manage these loads depended on
+the surface, and there was a great possibility that the dogs would
+have to be lightened, but under the circumstances it was the best
+plan they could hope to carry out.
+
+On Tuesday when everything was ready for the start the one pair
+of snow-shoes was tried on 'Weary Willy' with magical effect.
+In places where he had floundered woefully without the shoes he
+strolled round as if he was walking on hard ground. Immediately
+after this experiment Scott decided that an attempt must be made
+to get more snow-shoes, and within half an hour Meares and Wilson
+had started, on the chance that the ice had not yet gone out, to
+the station twenty miles away. But on the next day they returned
+with the news that there was no possibility of reaching Cape
+Evans, and an additional stroke of bad fortune fell when Atkinson's
+foot, which had been troublesome for some time, was examined and
+found to be so bad that he had to be left behind with Crean as a
+companion.
+
+Writing on Wednesday, February 1, from 'Safety Camp, Great Barrier,'
+Scott said: 'I told you that we should be cut off from our winter
+station, and that I had to get a good weight of stores on to the
+Barrier to provide for that contingency. We are safely here with
+all requisite stores, though it has taken nearly a week. But we
+find the surface very soft and the ponies flounder in it. I sent
+a dog team back yesterday to try and get snow-shoes for ponies,
+but they found the ice broken south of Cape Evans and returned
+this morning. Everyone is doing splendidly and gaining the right
+sort of experience for next year. Every mile we advance this year
+is a help for next.'
+
+[Illustration: Pony Camp on the barrier.]
+
+At last the start was made on Thursday, February 2, but when, after
+marching five miles, Scott asked for their one pair of snow-shoes,
+he found that they had been left behind, and Gran--whose expertness
+on ski was most useful--immediately volunteered to go back and get
+them. While he was away the party rested, for at Scott's suggestion
+they had decided to take to night marching. And so at 12.30 A.M.
+they started off once more on a surface that was bad at first but
+gradually improved, until just before camping time Bowers, who was
+leading, suddenly plunged into soft snow. Several of the others,
+following close behind him, shared the same fate, and soon three
+ponies were plunging and struggling in a drift, and had to be
+unharnessed and led round from patch to patch until firmer ground
+was reached.
+
+Then came another triumph for the snow-shoes, which were put
+on Bowers' pony, with the result that after a few minutes he
+settled down, was harnessed to his load, and brought in not only
+that but also another over places into which he had previously
+been plunging. Again Scott expressed his regret that such a great
+help to their work had been left behind at the station, and it
+was all the more trying for him to see the ponies half engulfed
+in the snow, and panting and heaving from the strain, when the
+remedies for his state of affairs were so near and yet so impossible
+to reach.
+
+During the next march ten miles were covered, and the ponies,
+on a better surface, easily dragged their loads, but signs of
+bad weather began to appear in the morning, and by 4 P.M. on
+Saturday a blizzard arrived and held up the party in Corner Camp
+for three days. 'No fun to be out of the tent--but there are
+no shirkers with us. Oates has been out regularly to feed the
+ponies; Meares and Wilson to attend to the dogs; the rest of us
+as occasion required.'
+
+The ponies looked fairly comfortable during the blizzard, but
+when it ceased and another march was made on Tuesday night, the
+effects of the storm were too clearly seen. All of them finished
+the march listlessly, and two or three were visibly thinner.
+
+But by far the worst sufferer was Forde's 'Blucher' whose load
+was reduced to 200 lbs., and finally Forde pulled this in and
+led his pony. Extra food was given in the hope that they would
+soon improve again; but at all costs most of them had got to
+be kept alive, and Scott began to fear that very possibly the
+journey would have to be curtailed.
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies seemed to be
+stronger. 'Surface very good and animals did splendidly,' Scott
+wrote on Friday, February 10, and then gave in his diary for
+the day an account of their nightly routine. 'We turn out of
+our sleeping-bags about 9 P.M. Somewhere about 11.30 I shout
+to the Soldier [Footnote: Oates.] "How are things?" There is a
+response suggesting readiness, and soon after figures are busy
+amongst sledges and ponies. It is chilling work for the fingers
+and not too warm for the feet. The rugs come off the animals,
+the harness is put on, tents and camp equipment are loaded on
+the sledges, nosebags filled for the next halt; one by one the
+animals are taken off the picketing rope and yoked to the sledge.
+Oates watches his animal warily, reluctant to keep such a nervous
+creature standing in the traces. If one is prompt one feels
+impatient and fretful whilst watching one's more tardy fellows.
+Wilson and Meares hang about ready to help with odds and ends.
+
+'Still we wait: the picketing lines must be gathered up, a few
+pony putties need adjustment, a party has been slow striking
+their tent. With numbed fingers on our horse's bridle and the
+animal striving to turn its head from the wind one feels resentful.
+At last all is ready. One says "All right, Bowers, go ahead," and
+Birdie leads his big animal forward, starting, as he continues, at
+a steady pace. The horses have got cold and at the word they are
+off, the Soldier's and one or two others with a rush. Finnesko give
+poor foothold on the slippery sastrugi, [Footnote: Irregularities
+formed by the wind on a snow-plain.] and for a minute or two
+drivers have some difficulty in maintaining the pace on their
+feet. Movement is warming, and in ten minutes the column has
+settled itself to steady marching.
+
+'The pace is still brisk, the light bad, and at intervals one or
+another of us suddenly steps on a slippery patch and falls prone.
+These are the only real incidents of the march--for the rest it
+passes with a steady tramp and slight variation of formation. The
+weaker ponies drop a bit but not far, so that they are soon up in
+line again when the first halt is made. We have come to a single
+halt in each half march. Last night it was too cold to stop long
+and a very few minutes found us on the go again.
+
+'As the end of the half march approaches I get out my whistle.
+Then at a shrill blast Bowers wheels slightly to the left, his
+tent mates lead still farther out to get the distance for the
+picket lines; Oates and I stop behind Bowers and Evans, the two
+other sledges of our squad behind the two other of Bowers'. So we
+are drawn up in camp formation. The picket lines are run across
+at right angles to the line of advance and secured to the two
+sledges at each end. It a few minutes ponies are on the lines
+covered, tents up again and cookers going.
+
+'Meanwhile the dog drivers, after a long cold wait at the old camp,
+have packed the last sledge and come trotting along our tracks.
+They try to time their arrival in the new camp immediately after
+our own, and generally succeed well. The mid-march halt runs into
+an hour to an hour and a half, and at the end we pack up and tramp
+forth again. We generally make our final camp about 8 o'clock, and
+within an hour and a half most of us are in our sleeping-bags....
+At the long halt we do our best for our animals by building snow
+walls and improving their rugs, &c.
+
+A softer surface on the 11th made the work much more difficult,
+and even the dogs, who had been pulling consistently well, showed
+signs of exhaustion before the march was over. Early on Sunday
+morning they were near the 79th parallel, and exact bearings had
+to be taken, since this camp, called Bluff Camp, was expected to
+play an important part in the future. By this time three of the
+ponies, Blossom, James Pigg, and Blucher, were so weak that Scott
+decided to send E. Evans, Forde and Keohane back with them.
+
+Progress on the next march was interrupted by a short blizzard,
+and Scott, not by any means for the first time, was struck by
+Bowers' imperviousness to cold. 'Bowers,' he wrote, 'is wonderful.
+Throughout the night he has worn no head-gear but a common green
+felt hat kept on with a chin-stay and affording no cover whatever
+for the ears. His face and ears remain bright red. The rest of
+us were glad to have thick Balaclavas and wind helmets. I have
+never seen anyone so unaffected by the cold. To-night he remained
+outside a full hour after the rest of us had got into the tent.
+He was simply pottering about the camp doing small jobs to the
+sledges, &c. Cherry-Garrard is remarkable because of his eyes. He
+can only see through glasses and has to wrestle with all sorts of
+inconveniences in consequence. Yet one could never guess it--for
+he manages somehow to do more than his share of the work.'
+
+Another disappointing day followed, on which the surface was so
+bad that the ponies frequently sank lower than their hocks, and
+the soft patches of snow left by the blizzard lay in sandy heaps
+and made great friction for the runners. Still, however, they
+struggled on; but Gran with Weary Willy could not go the pace,
+and when they were three-quarters of a mile behind the others
+the dog teams (which always left the camp after the others)
+overtook them. Then the dogs got out of hand and attacked Weary
+Willy, who put up a sterling fight but was bitten rather badly
+before Meares and Gran could drive off the dogs. Afterwards it
+was discovered that Weary Willy's load was much heavier than
+that of the other ponies, and an attempt to continue the march
+had quickly to be abandoned owing to his weak condition. As some
+compensation for his misfortunes he was given a hot feed, a large
+snow wall, and some extra sacking, and on the following day he
+showed appreciation of these favors by a marked improvement.
+Bowers' pony, however, refused work for the first time, and Oates
+was more despondent than ever; 'But,' Scott says, 'I've come to
+see that this is a characteristic of him. In spite of it he pays
+every attention to the weaker horses.'
+
+No doubt remained on the Thursday that both Weary Willy and Bowers'
+pony could stand very little more, and so it was decided to turn
+back on the following day. During the last march out the temperature
+fell to -21° with a brisk south-west breeze, and frost-bites were
+frequent. Bowers with his ears still uncovered suffered severely,
+but while Scott and Cherry-Garrard nursed them back he seemed to
+feel nothing but surprise and disgust at the mere fact of possessing
+such unruly organs. 'It seems as though some of our party will find
+spring journeys pretty trying. Oates' nose is always on the point
+of being frost-bitten; Meares has a refractory toe which gives him
+much trouble--this is the worse prospect for summit work. I have
+been wondering how I shall stick the summit again, this cold spell
+gives ideas. I think I shall be all right, but one must be prepared
+for a pretty good doing.'
+
+The depôt was built during the next day, February 17, Lat. 79°
+29' S, and considerably over a ton of stuff was landed.
+
+Stores left in depôt:
+
+   lbs.
+   245   7 weeks' full provision bags for 1 unit
+    12   2 days' provision bags for 1 unit
+     8   8 weeks' tea
+    31   6 weeks' extra butter
+   176   lbs. biscuit (7 weeks' full biscuit)
+    85   8-1/2 gallons oil (12 weeks' oil for 1 unit)
+   850   5 sacks of oats
+   424   4 bales of fodder
+   250   Tank of dog biscuit
+   100   2 cases of biscuit
+  ----
+  2181
+
+         1  skein white line
+         1  set breast harness
+         2  12 ft. sledges
+         2  pair ski, 1 pair ski sticks
+         1  Minimum Thermometer
+         1  tin Rowntree cocoa
+         1  tin matches
+
+Sorry as Scott was not to reach 80°, he was satisfied that they
+had 'a good leg up' for next year, and could at least feed the
+ponies thoroughly up to this point. In addition to a flagstaff
+and black flag, One Ton Camp was marked with piled biscuit boxes
+to act as reflectors, and tea-tins were tied on the top of the
+sledges, which were planted upright in the snow. The depôt cairn
+was more than six feet above the surface, and so the party had
+the satisfaction of knowing that it could scarcely fail to show
+up for many miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+PERILS
+
+                ...Yet I argue not
+  Against Heaven's hand or will, nor bate a jot
+  Of heart or hope; but still bear up and steer
+  Right onward.
+  --MILTON.
+
+On the return journey Scott, Wilson, Meares and Cherry-Garrard
+went back at top speed with the dog teams, leaving Bowers, Oates
+and Gran to follow with the ponies. For three days excellent
+marches were made, the dogs pulling splendidly, and anxious as
+Scott was to get back to Safety Camp and find out what had happened
+to the other parties and the ponies, he was more than satisfied
+with the daily records. But on Tuesday, February 21, a check came
+in their rapid journey, a check, moreover, which might have been a
+most serious disaster.
+
+The light though good when they started about 10 P.M. on Monday
+night quickly became so bad that but little of the surface could
+be seen, and the dogs began to show signs of fatigue. About an
+hour and a half after the start they came upon mistily outlined
+pressure ridges and were running by the sledges when, as the
+teams were trotting side by side, the middle dogs of the teams
+driven by Scott and Meares began to disappear. 'We turned,'
+Cherry-Garrard says, 'and saw their dogs disappearing one after
+another, like dogs going down a hole after a rat.'
+
+In a moment the whole team were sinking; two by two they vanished
+from sight, each pair struggling for foothold. Osman, the leader,
+put forth all his strength and most wonderfully kept a foothold.
+The sledge stopped on the brink of the crevasse, and Scott and
+Meares jumped aside.
+
+In another moment the situation was realized. They had actually
+been traveling along the bridge of a crevasse, the sledge had
+stopped on it, while the dogs hung in their harness in the abyss.
+'Why the sledge and ourselves didn't follow the dogs we shall
+never know. I think a fraction of a pound of added weight must
+have taken us down.' Directly the sledge had been hauled clear
+of the bridge and anchored, they peered into the depths of the
+cracks. The dogs, suspended in all sorts of fantastic positions,
+were howling dismally and almost frantic with terror. Two of them
+had dropped out of their harness and, far below, could be seen
+indistinctly on a snow-bridge. The rope at either end of the
+chain had bitten deep into the snow at the side of the crevasse
+and with the weight below could not possibly be moved.
+
+By this time assistance was forthcoming from Wilson and
+Cherry-Garrard, the latter hurriedly bringing the Alpine rope,
+the exact position of which on the sledge he most fortunately
+knew. The prospect, however, of rescuing the team was not by
+any means bright, and for some minutes every attempt failed. In
+spite of their determined efforts they could get not an inch
+on the main trace of the sledge or on the leading rope, which
+with a throttling pressure was binding poor Osman to the snow.
+
+Then, as their thoughts became clearer, they set to work on a
+definite plan of action. The sledge was unloaded, and the tent,
+cooker, and sleeping-bags were carried to a safe place; then
+Scott, seizing the lashing off Meares' sleeping-bag, passed the
+tent-poles across the crevasse, and with Meares managed to get
+a few inches on the leading line. This freed Osman, whose harness
+was immediately cut. The next step was to secure the leading
+rope to the main trace and haul up together. By this means one
+dog was rescued and unlashed, but the rope already had cut so
+far back at the edge that efforts to get more of it were useless.
+
+[Illustration: Snowed-up tent after three days' blizzard.]
+
+'We could now unbend the sledge and do that for which we should
+have aimed from the first, namely, run the sledge across the gap
+and work from it.' So the sledge was put over the crevasse and
+pegged down on both sides, Wilson holding on to the anchored
+trace while the others worked at the leader end. The leading
+rope, however, was so very small that Scott was afraid of its
+breaking, and Meares was lowered down to secure the Alpine rope
+to the leading end of the trace; when this had been done the
+chance of rescuing the dogs at once began to improve.
+
+Two by two the dogs were hauled up until eleven out of the thirteen
+were again in safety. Then Scott began to wonder if the two other
+dogs could not be saved, and the Alpine rope was paid down to see
+if it was long enough to reach the bridge on which they were coiled.
+The rope was 90 feet, and as the amount remaining showed that the
+depth of the bridge was about 65 feet, Scott made a bowline and
+insisted upon being lowered down. The bridge turned out to be firm,
+and he quickly got hold of the dogs and saw them hauled to the
+surface. But before he could be brought up terrific howls arose
+above, and he had to be left while the rope-tenders hastened to
+stop a fight between the dogs of the two teams.
+
+'We then hauled Scott up,' Cherry-Garrard says; 'it was all three
+of us could do, my fingers a good deal frost-bitten in the end.
+That was all the dogs, Scott has just said that at one time he
+never hoped to get back with the thirteen, or even half of them.
+When he was down in the crevasse he wanted to go off exploring,
+but we dissuaded him.... He kept on saying, "I wonder why this
+is running the way it is, you expect to find them at right angles."'
+
+For over two hours the work of rescue had continued, and after it
+was finished the party camped and had a meal, and congratulated
+themselves on a miraculous escape. Had the sledge gone down Scott
+and Meares must have been badly injured, if not killed outright,
+but as things had turned out even the dogs showed wonderful signs
+of recovery after their terrible experience.
+
+On the following day Safety Camp was reached, but the dogs were
+as thin as rakes and so ravenously hungry that Scott expressed
+a very strong opinion that they were underfed. 'One thing is
+certain, the dogs will never continue to drag heavy loads with
+men sitting on the sledges; we must all learn to run with the
+teams and the Russian custom must be dropped.'
+
+At Safety Camp E. Evans, Forde and Keohane were found, but to
+Scott's great sorrow two of their ponies had died on the return
+journey. Forde had spent hour after hour in nursing poor Blucher,
+and although the greatest care had also been given to Blossom,
+both of them were left on the Southern Road. The remaining one
+of the three, James Pigg, had managed not only to survive but
+actually to thrive, and, severe as the loss of the two ponies was,
+some small consolation could be gained from the fact that they
+were the oldest of the team, and the two which Oates considered
+to be the least useful.
+
+After a few hours' sleep Scott, Wilson, Meares, Cherry-Garrard
+and Evans started off to Hut Point, and on arrival were astonished
+to find that, although the hut had been cleared and made habitable,
+no one was there. A pencil line on the wall stated that a bag
+containing a mail was inside, but no bag was to be found. But
+presently what turned out to be the true solution of this curious
+state of affairs was guessed, namely, that Atkinson and Crean
+had been on their way from the hut to Safety Camp as the others
+had come from the camp to the hut, and later on Scott saw their
+sledge track leading round on the sea-ice.
+
+Feeling terribly anxious that some disaster might have happened
+to Atkinson and Crean owing to the weakness of the ice round
+Cape Armitage, Scott and his party soon started back to Safety
+Camp, but it was not until they were within a couple of hundred
+yards of their destination that they saw three tents instead
+of two, and knew that Atkinson and Crean were safe. No sooner,
+however, had Scott received his letters than his feelings of
+relief were succeeded by sheer astonishment.
+
+'Every incident of the day pales before the startling contents
+of the mail bag which Atkinson gave me--a letter from Campbell
+setting out his doings and the finding of Amundsen established
+in the Bay of Whales.
+
+'One thing only fixes itself definitely in my mind. The proper,
+as well as the wiser, course for us is to proceed exactly as
+though this had not happened. To go forward and do our best for
+the honor of the country without fear or panic.
+
+'There is no doubt that Amundsen's plan is a very serious menace
+to ours. He has a shorter distance to the Pole by 60 miles--I
+never thought he could have got so many dogs [116] safely to
+the ice. His plan for running them seems excellent. But above
+and beyond all he can start his journey early in the season--an
+impossible condition with ponies.'
+
+The ship, to which Scott had said good-by a month before, had,
+after landing the Western Geological Party at Butter Point,
+proceeded along the Barrier, and on February 5 had come across
+Amundsen camped in the Bay of Whales. No landing place, however,
+for Campbell's party could be found. 'This,' Campbell says, 'was
+a great disappointment to us all, but there was nothing for it
+but to return to McMurdo Sound to communicate with the main party,
+and then try to effect a landing in the vicinity of Smith's Inlet
+or as far to the westward as possible on the north coast of
+Victoria Land, and if possible to explore the unknown coast west
+of Cape North. We therefore made the best of our way to Cape
+Evans, and arrived on the evening of the 8th. Here I decided
+to land the two ponies, as they would be very little use to us
+on the mountainous coast of Victoria Land, and in view of the
+Norwegian expedition I felt the Southern Party would require
+all the transport available. After landing the ponies we steamed
+up to the sea-ice by Glacier Tongue, and from there, taking
+Priestley and Abbott, I went with letters to Hut Point, where
+the depôt party would call on their way back.'
+
+Thus Scott came on Wednesday, February 22, to receive the news
+which was bound to occupy his thoughts, however resolutely he
+refused to allow it to interfere in any way with his plans.
+
+Thursday was spent preparing sledges to meet Bowers, Oates and
+Gran at Corner Camp, and on the following day Scott, Crean and
+Cherry-Garrard with one sledge and tent, E. Evans, Atkinson and
+Forde with second sledge and tent, and Keohane leading James
+Pigg, started their march. At 3 P.M. on Saturday Scott turned out
+and saw a short black line on the horizon towards White Island.
+Presently he made certain that it was Bowers and his companions,
+but they were traveling fast and failed to see Scott's camp;
+so when the latter reached Corner Camp he did not find Bowers,
+but was glad to see five pony walls and consequently to know
+that all the animals were still alive.
+
+Having depôted six full weeks' provisions, Scott, Cherry-Garrard
+and Crean started for home, leaving the others to bring James
+Pigg by easier stages. The next day, however, had to be spent in
+the tent owing to a howling blizzard, and not until the Tuesday
+did Scott reach Safety Camp, where he found that the ponies were
+without exception terribly thin, and that Weary Willy was especially
+in a pitiable condition.
+
+As no advantage was to be gained by staying at Safety Camp,
+arrangements were made immediately for a general shift to Hut
+Point, and about four o'clock the two dog teams driven by Wilson
+and Meares got safely away. Then the ponies were got ready to
+start, the plan being for them to follow in the tracks of the
+dogs; the route was over about six miles of sea-ice, which, owing
+to the spread of water holes, caused Scott to feel gravely anxious.
+
+At the very start, however, Weary Willy fell down, and his plight
+was so critical that Bowers, Cherry-Garrard and Crean were sent on
+with Punch, Cuts, Uncle Bill and Nobby to Hut Point, while Scott,
+with Oates and Gran, decided to stay behind and attend to the
+sick pony. But despite all the attempts to save him, Weary Willy
+died during the Tuesday night. 'It makes a late start necessary
+for next year,' Scott wrote in his diary on Wednesday, March 1,
+but on the following day he had to add to this, 'The events of
+the past 48 hours bid fair to wreck the expedition, and the only
+one comfort is the miraculous avoidance of loss of life.'
+
+Early on the morning following Weary Willy's death, Scott, Oates
+and Gran started out and pulled towards the forage depôt, which
+was at a point on the Barrier half a mile from the edge, in a
+S.S.E. direction from Hut Point. On their approach the sky looked
+black and lowering, and mirage effects of huge broken floes loomed
+out ahead. At first Scott thought that this was one of the strange
+optical illusions common in the Antarctic, but as he drew close
+to the depôt all doubt was dispelled. The sea was full of broken
+pieces of Barrier edge, and at once his thoughts flew to the
+ponies and dogs.
+
+They turned to follow the sea-edge, and suddenly discovering a
+working crack, dashed over it and hastened on until they were in
+line between Safety Camp and Castle Rock. Meanwhile Scott's first
+thought was to warn E. Evans' party which was traveling back from
+Corner Camp with James Pigg. 'We set up tent, and Gran went to
+the depôt with a note as Oates and I disconsolately thought out
+the situation. I thought to myself that if either party had
+reached safety either on the Barrier or at Hut Point they would
+immediately have sent a warning messenger to Safety Camp. By
+this time the messenger should have been with us. Some half-hour
+passed, and suddenly with a "Thank God!" I made certain that
+two specks in the direction of Pram Point were human beings.'
+
+When, however, Scott hastened in their direction he discovered
+them to be Wilson and Meares, who were astonished to see him,
+because they had left Safety Camp before the breakdown of Weary
+Willy had upset the original program. From them Scott heard alarming
+reports that the ponies were adrift on the sea-ice.
+
+The startling incidents that had led to this state of affairs
+began very soon after Bowers, Crean and Cherry-Garrard had left
+Safety Camp with the ponies. 'I caught Bowers up at the edge
+of the Barrier,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his diary, 'the dogs
+were on ahead and we saw them turn and make right round Cape
+Armitage. "Uncle Bill" got done, and I took up the dog tracks
+which we followed over the tide crack and well on towards Cape
+Armitage.
+
+'The sea-ice was very weak, and we came to fresh crack after
+fresh crack, and at last to a big crack with water squelching
+through for many feet on both sides. We all thought it impossible
+to proceed and turned back.... The ponies began to get very done,
+and Bowers decided to get back over the tide crack, find a snowy
+place, and camp.
+
+'This had been considered with Scott as a possibility and agreed
+to. Of course according to arrangements then Scott would have
+been with the ponies.
+
+'We camped about 11 P.M. and made walls for the ponies. Bowers
+cooked with a primus of which the top is lost, and it took a
+long time. He mistook curry powder for cocoa, and we all felt
+very bad for a short time after trying it. Crean swallowed all
+his. Otherwise we had a good meal.
+
+'While we were eating a sound as though ice had fallen outside
+down the tent made us wonder. At 2 A.M. we turned in, Bowers
+went out, and all was quiet. At 4.30 A.M. Bowers was wakened
+by a grinding sound, jumped up, and found the situation as
+follows:--
+
+'The whole sea-ice had broken up into small floes, from ten to
+thirty or forty yards across. We were on a small floe, I think
+about twenty yards across, two sledges were on the next floe,
+and "Cuts" had disappeared down the opening. Bowers shouted to
+us all and hauled the two sledges on to our floe in his socks.
+We packed anyhow, I don't suppose a camp was ever struck quicker.
+It seemed to me impossible to go on with the ponies and I said
+so, but Bowers decided to try.
+
+'We decided that to go towards White Island looked best, and for
+five hours traveled in the following way:--we jumped the ponies
+over floe to floe as the cracks joined.... We then man-hauled
+the sledges after them, then according to the size of the floe
+sometimes harnessed the ponies in again, sometimes man-hauled
+the sledge to the next crack, waited our chance, sometimes I
+should think five or ten minutes, and repeated the process.'
+
+At length they worked their way to heavier floes lying near the
+Barrier edge, and at one time thought that it was possible to get
+up; but very soon they discovered that there were gaps everywhere
+off the high Barrier face. In this dilemma Crean volunteered to
+try and reach Scott, and after traveling a great distance and
+leaping from floe to floe, he found a thick floe from which with
+the help of his ski stick he could climb the Barrier face. 'It
+was a desperate venture, but luckily successful.'
+
+And so while Scott, Oates, Wilson, Meares and Gran were discussing
+the critical situation, a man, who proved to be Crean, was seen
+rapidly making for the depôt from the west.
+
+As soon as Scott had considered the latest development of the
+situation he sent Gran back to Hut Point with Wilson and Meares,
+and started with Oates, Crean, and a sledge for the scene of
+the mishap. A halt was made at Safety Camp to get some provisions
+and oil, and then, marching carefully round, they approached
+the ice-edge, and to their joy caught sight of Bowers and
+Cherry-Garrard. With the help of the Alpine rope both the men
+were dragged to the surface, and after camp had been pitched
+at a safe distance from the edge all hands started upon salvage
+work. The ice at this time lay close and quiet against the Barrier
+edge, and some ten hours after Bowers and Cherry-Garrard had been
+hauled up, the sledges and their contents were safely on the
+Barrier. But then, just as the last loads were saved, the ice
+began to drift again, and so, for the time, nothing could be
+done for the ponies except to leave them well-fed upon their floes.
+
+'None of our party had had sleep the previous night and all were
+dog tired. I decided we must rest, but turned everyone out at 8.30
+yesterday morning [after three or four hours]. Before breakfast we
+discovered the ponies had drifted away. We had tried to anchor their
+floes with the Alpine rope, but the anchors had drawn. It was a sad
+moment.'
+
+Presently, however, Bowers, who had taken the binoculars, announced
+that he could see the ponies about a mile to the N. W. 'We packed
+and went on at once. We found it easy enough to get down to the
+poor animals and decided to rush them for a last chance of life.
+Then there was an unfortunate mistake: I went along the Barrier edge
+and discovered what I thought and what proved to be a practicable
+way to land a pony, but the others meanwhile, a little overwrought,
+tried to leap Punch across a gap. The poor beast fell in; eventually
+we had to kill him--it was awful. I recalled all hands and pointed
+out my road. Bowers and Oates went out on it with a sledge and
+worked their way to the remaining ponies, and started back with
+them on the same track.... We saved one pony; for a time I thought
+we should get both, but Bowers' poor animal slipped at a jump
+and plunged into the water: we dragged him out on some brash ice--
+killer whales all about us in an intense state of excitement.
+The poor animal couldn't rise, and the only merciful thing was to
+kill it. These incidents were too terrible. At 5 P.M. (Thursday,
+March 2), we sadly broke our temporary camp and marched back to
+the one I had just pitched.... So here we are ready to start our
+sad journey to Hut Point. Everything out of joint with the loss
+of our ponies, but mercifully with all the party alive and well.'
+
+At the start on the march back the surface was so bad that only
+three miles were covered in four hours, and in addition to this
+physical strain Scott was also deeply anxious to know that E.
+Evans and his party were safe; but while they were camping that
+night on Pram Point ridges, Evans' party, all of whom were well,
+came in. Then it was decided that Atkinson should go on to Hut
+Point in the morning to take news to Wilson, Meares and Gran,
+who were looking after the dogs, and having a wretched time in
+trying to make two sleeping-bags do the work of three.
+
+On March 2 Wilson wrote in his journal: 'A very bitter wind blowing
+and it was a cheerless job waiting for six hours to get a sleep in
+the bag.... As the ice had all gone out of the strait we were cut
+off from any return to Cape Evans until the sea should again freeze
+over, and this was not likely until the end of April. We rigged up
+a small fireplace in the hut and found some wood and made a fire
+for an hour or so at each meal, but as there was no coal and not
+much wood we felt we must be economical with the fuel, and so also
+with matches and everything else, in case Bowers should lose his
+sledge loads, which had most of the supplies for the whole party
+to last twelve men for two months.... There was literally nothing
+in the hut that one could cover oneself with to keep warm, and we
+couldn't run to keeping the fire going. It was very cold work.
+There were heaps of biscuit cases here which we had left in
+Discovery days, and with these we built up a small inner hut to
+live in.'
+
+On Saturday Scott and some of his party reached the hut, and on
+Sunday he was able to write: 'Turned in with much relief to have
+all hands and the animals safely housed.' Only two ponies, James
+Pigg and Nobby, remained out of the eight that had started on
+the depôt journey, but disastrous as this was to the expedition
+there was reason to be thankful that even greater disasters had
+not happened.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+A HAPPY FAMILY
+
+  By mutual confidence and mutual aid
+  Great deeds are done and great discoveries made.
+  --ANON.
+
+With the certainty of having to stay in the Discovery hut for
+some time, the party set to work at once to make it as comfortable
+as possible. With packing-cases a large L-shaped inner apartment
+was made, the intervals being stopped with felt, and an empty
+kerosene tin and some firebricks were made into an excellent
+little stove which was connected to the old stove-pipe.
+
+As regards food almost an unlimited supply of biscuit was available,
+and during a walk to Pram Point on Monday, March 6, Scott and
+Wilson found that the sea-ice in Pram Point Bay had not gone out
+and was crowded with seals, a happy find that guaranteed the party
+as much meat as they wanted. 'We really have everything necessary
+for our comfort and only need a little more experience to make the
+best of our resources.... It is splendid to see the way in which
+everyone is learning the ropes, and the resource which is being
+shown. Wilson as usual leads in the making of useful suggestions
+and in generally providing for our wants. He is a tower of strength
+in checking the ill-usage of clothes--what I have come to regard as
+the greatest danger with Englishmen.'
+
+On Saturday night a blizzard sprang up and gradually increased
+in force until it reminded Scott and Wilson of the gale which
+drove the Discovery ashore. The blizzard continued until noon
+on Tuesday, on which day the Western Geological Party (Griffith
+Taylor, Wright, Debenham and P.O. Evans) returned to the hut
+after a successful trip.
+
+Two days later another depôt party started to Corner Camp, E. Evans,
+Wright, Crean and Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard
+and Atkinson in the other. 'It was very sporting of Wright to join
+in after only a day's rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.'
+
+During the absence of this party the comforts of the hut were
+constantly being increased, but continuous bad weather was both
+depressing to the men and very serious for the dogs. Every effort
+had been made to make the dogs comfortable, but the changes of
+wind made it impossible to give them shelter in all directions.
+At least five of them were in a sorry plight, and half a dozen
+others were by no means strong, but whether because they were
+constitutionally harder or whether better fitted by nature to
+protect themselves the other ten or a dozen animals were as fit
+as they could be. As it was found to be impossible to keep the
+dogs comfortable in the traces, the majority of them were allowed
+to run loose; for although Scott feared that this freedom would
+mean that there would be some fights to the death, he thought it
+preferable to the risk of losing the animals by keeping them on
+the leash. The main difficulty with them was that when the ice once
+got thoroughly into the coats their hind legs became half paralyzed
+with cold, but by allowing them to run loose it was hoped that
+they would be able to free themselves of this serious trouble.
+'Well, well, fortune is not being very kind to us. This month
+will have sad memories. Still I suppose things might be worse;
+the ponies are well housed and are doing exceedingly well....'
+
+The depôt party returned to the hut on March 23, but though the
+sea by this time showed symptoms of wanting to freeze, there
+was no real sign that the ice would hold for many a long day.
+Stock therefore was taken of their resources, and arrangements
+were made for a much longer stay than had been anticipated. A
+week later the ice, though not thickening rapidly, held south of
+Hut Point, but the stretch from Hut Point to Turtle Back Island
+still refused to freeze even in calm weather, and Scott began
+to think that they might not be able to get back to Cape Evans
+before May. Soon afterwards, however, the sea began to freeze
+over completely, and on Thursday evening, April 6, a program,
+subject to the continuance of good weather, was arranged for a
+shift to Cape Evans. 'It feels good,' Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'to
+have something doing in the air.' But the weather prevented them
+from starting on the appointed day, and although Scott was most
+anxious to get back and see that all was well at Cape Evans, the
+comfort achieved in the old hut was so great that he confessed
+himself half-sorry to leave it.
+
+Describing their life at Hut Point he says, 'We gather around
+the fire seated on packing-cases, with a hunk of bread and butter
+and a steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living.
+After lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt
+a long stay indoors, and exercise keeps us all the fitter.
+
+'The failing light and approach of supper drives us home again
+with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival
+one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver....
+Exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every night--or nearly
+every night; for two nights ago (April 4) Wilson, who has proved
+a genius in the invention of "plats," almost ruined his reputation.
+He proposed to fry the seal liver in penguin blubber, suggesting
+that the latter could be freed from all rankness.... The "fry"
+proved redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that
+peculiar flavor which faintly lingers in the meat and should not
+be emphasized. Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the
+rest of us decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after
+tasting the first mouthful. [Footnote: Wilson, referring to this
+incident in his Journal, showed no signs of contrition. 'Fun over
+a fry I made in my new penguin lard. It was quite a success and
+tasted like very bad sardine oil.']
+
+'After supper we have an hour or so of smoking and conversation--a
+cheering, pleasant hour--in which reminiscences are exchanged by a
+company which has very literally had world-wide experience. There
+is scarce a country under the sun which one or another of us has
+not traveled in, so diverse are our origins and occupations.
+
+'An hour or so after supper we tail off one by one.... Everyone can
+manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a few
+would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which
+goes to show that our exceedingly simple life is an exceedingly
+healthy one, though with faces and hands blackened with smoke,
+appearances might not lead an outsider to suppose it.'
+
+On Tuesday, April 11, a start could be made for Cape Evans, the
+party consisting of Scott, Bowers, P.O. Evans and Taylor in one
+tent; E. Evans, Gran, Crean, Debenham and Wright in another;
+Wilson being left in charge at Hut Point, with Meares, Forde,
+Keohane, Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard.
+
+In fine weather they marched past Castle Rock, and it soon became
+evident that they must go well along the ridge before descending,
+and that the difficulty would be to get down over the cliffs.
+Seven and a half miles from the start they reached Hutton Rocks,
+a very icy and wind-swept spot, and as the wind rose and the light
+became bad at the critical moment they camped for a short time.
+Half an hour later the weather cleared and a possible descent to
+the ice cliffs could be seen, but between Hutton Rock and Erebus
+all the slope was much cracked and crevassed. A clear track to
+the edge of the cliffs was chosen, but on arriving there no low
+place could be found (the lowest part being 24 feet sheer drop),
+and as the wind was increasing and the snow beginning to drift
+off the ridge a quick decision had to be made.
+
+Then Scott went to the edge, and having made standing places to
+work the Alpine rope, Bowers., E. Evans and Taylor were lowered.
+Next the sledges went down fully packed and then the remainder
+of the party, Scott being the last to go down. It was a neat and
+speedy piece of work, and completed in twenty minutes without
+serious frost-bites.
+
+The surface of ice covered with salt crystals made pulling very
+heavy to Glacier Tongue, which they reached about 5.30 P.M. A
+stiff incline on a hard surface followed, but as the light was
+failing and cracks were innumerable, several of the party fell
+in with considerable risk of damage. The north side, however,
+was well snow-covered, with a good valley leading to a low ice
+cliff in which a broken piece provided an easy descent. Under
+the circumstances Scott decided to push on to Cape Evans, but
+darkness suddenly fell upon them, and after very heavy pulling
+for many hours they were so totally unable to see anything ahead,
+that at 10 P.M. they were compelled to pitch their camp under
+little Razor Back Island. During the night the wind began to
+rise, and in the morning a roaring blizzard was blowing, and
+obviously the ice on which they had pitched their camp was none
+too safe. For hours they waited vainly for a lull, until at 3
+P.M. Scott and Bowers went round the Island, with the result
+that they resolved to shift their camp to a little platform under
+the weather side. This operation lasted for two very cold hours,
+but splendid shelter was gained, the cliffs rising almost sheer
+from the tents. 'Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied
+down on the tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the
+wind sweeping over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening;
+we could scarcely hear ourselves speak.' Provisions for only
+one more meal were left, but sleep all the same was easier to
+get than on the previous night, because they knew that they were
+no longer in danger of being swept out to sea.
+
+The wind moderated during the night, and early in the morning
+the party in a desperately cold and stiff breeze and with frozen
+clothes were again under weigh. The distance, however, was only
+two miles, and after some very hard pulling they arrived off
+the point and found that the sea-ice continued around it. 'It
+was a very great relief to see the hut on rounding it and to
+hear that all was well.'
+
+In choosing the site of the hut Scott had thought of the possibility
+of northerly winds bringing a swell, but had argued, first, that
+no heavy northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound;
+secondly, that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack
+which would damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was well
+protected by the Barne Glacier; and, lastly, that the beach itself
+showed no signs of having been swept by the sea. When, however,
+the hut had been erected and he found that its foundation was
+only eleven feet above the level of the sea-ice, he could not
+rid himself entirely of misgivings.
+
+As events turned out the hut was safe and sound enough, but not
+until Scott reached it, on April 13, did he realize how anxious
+he had been. 'In a normal season no thoughts of its having been
+in danger would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the
+ponies and the breaking of Glacier Tongue, I could not rid myself
+of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal
+swell had swept the beach.' So when he and his party turned the
+small headland and saw that the hut was intact, a real fear was
+mercifully removed. Very soon afterwards the travelers were seen
+by two men at work near the stables, and then the nine occupants
+(Simpson, Day, Nelson, Ponting, Lashly, Clissold, Hooper, Anton
+and Demetri) came rapidly to meet and welcome them. In a minute
+the most important events of the quiet station life were told,
+the worst news being that one pony, named Hacken-schmidt, and
+one dog had died. For the rest the hut arrangements had worked
+admirably, and the scientific routine of observations was in full
+swing.
+
+After their primitive life at the Discovery hut the interior
+space of the home at Cape Evans seemed palatial, and the comfort
+luxurious. 'It was very good to eat in civilized fashion, to
+enjoy the first bath for three months, and have contact with
+clean, dry clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom
+soon banished their delight) are the treasured remembrance of
+every Polar traveler.' Not for many hours or even minutes, however,
+was Scott in the hut before he was taken round to see in detail
+the transformation that had taken place in his absence, and in
+which a very proper pride was taken by those who had created it.
+
+First of all a visit was paid to Simpson's Corner, where numerous
+shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments,
+electric batteries and switchboards were to be seen, and the
+tickings of many clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally
+the trembling note of an electric bell could be heard. 'It took me
+days and even months to realize fully the aims of our meteorologist
+and the scientific accuracy with which he was achieving them.'
+
+From Simpson's Corner Scott was taken on his tour of inspection
+into Ponting's dark room, and found that the art of photography
+had never been so well housed within the Polar regions and rarely
+without them. 'Such a palatial chamber for the development of
+negatives and prints can only be justified by the quality of the
+work produced in it, and is only justified in our case by such
+an artist as Ponting.'
+
+From the dark room he went on to the biologists' cubicle, shared, to
+their mutual satisfaction, by Day and Nelson. There the prevailing
+note was neatness, and to Day's mechanical skill everyone paid
+tribute. The heating, lighting and ventilating arrangements of the
+hut had been left entirely in his charge, and had been carried out
+with admirable success. The cook's corner was visited next, and
+Scott was very surprised to see the mechanical ingenuity shown by
+Clissold. 'Later,' he says, 'when I found that Clissold was called
+in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's motor, and that he was
+capable of constructing a dog sledge out of packing-cases, I was
+less surprised, because I knew by this time that he had had
+considerable training in mechanical work before he turned his
+attention to pots and pans.'
+
+The tour ended with an inspection of the shelters for the animals,
+and when Scott saw the stables he could not help regretting that
+some of the stalls would have to remain empty, though he appreciated
+fully the fact that there was ample and safe harborage for the ten
+remaining ponies. With Lashly's help, Anton had completed the
+furnishing of the stables in a way that was both neat and effective.
+
+Only five or six dogs had been left in Demetri's charge, and it
+was at once evident that every care had been taken of them; not
+only had shelters been made, but a small 'lean to' had also been
+built to serve as a hospital for any sick animal. The impressions,
+in short, that Scott received on his return to Cape Evans were
+almost wholly pleasant, and in happy contrast with the fears that
+had assailed him on the homeward route.
+
+Not for long, however, did he, Bowers and Crean stay to enjoy the
+comforts of Cape Evans, as on Monday, April 17, they were off
+again to Hut Point with two 10-foot sledges, a week's provisions
+of sledding food, and butter, oatmeal, &c., for the hut. Scott,
+Lashly, Day and Demetri took the first sledge; Bowers, Nelson,
+Crean and Hooper the second; and after a rather adventurous journey,
+in which 'Lashly was splendid at camp work as of old,' they reached
+Hut Point at 1 P.M. on the following day, and found everyone well
+and in good spirits. The party left at the hut were, however, very
+short of seal-meat, a cause of anxiety, because until the sea froze
+over there was no possibility of getting the ponies back to Cape
+Evans. But three seals were reported on the Wednesday and promptly
+killed, and so Scott, satisfied that this stock was enough for
+twelve days, resolved to go back as soon as the weather would allow
+him.
+
+Leaving Meares in charge of the station with Demetri to help with
+the dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look after the ponies, and Nelson,
+Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience, the
+homeward party started on Friday morning. On this journey Scott,
+Wilson, Atkinson and Crean pulled one sledge, and Bowers, Oates,
+Cherry-Garrard and Hooper the other. Scott's party were the
+leaders, and their sledge dragged so fearfully that the men with
+the second sledge had a very easy time in keeping up. Then Crean
+declared that although the loads were equal there was a great
+difference in the sledges. 'Bowers,' Scott says, 'politely assented
+when I voiced this sentiment, but I am sure he and his party
+thought it the plea of tired men. However, there was nothing like
+proof, and he readily assented to change sledges. The difference
+was really extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight
+compared with the old, and set up a great pace for the home quarters
+regardless of how much we perspired.'
+
+All of them arrived at Cape Evans with their garments soaked
+through, and as they took off their wind clothes showers of ice
+fell upon the floor. The accumulation was almost beyond belief
+and showed the whole trouble of sledding in cold weather. Clissold,
+however, was at hand with 'just the right meal,' an enormous dish
+of rice and figs, and cocoa in a bucket. The sledding season was
+at an end, and Scott admitted that in spite of all the losses
+they had sustained it was good to be home again, while Wilson,
+Oates, Atkinson and Cherry-Garrard, who had not seen the hut
+since it had been fitted out, were astonished at its comfort.
+
+On Sunday, April 23, two days after the return from Hut Point,
+the sun made it's last appearance and the winter work was begun.
+Ponies for exercise were allotted to Bowers, Cherry-Garrard,
+Hooper, Clissold, P.O. Evans and Crean, besides Oates and Anton,
+but in making this allotment Scott was obliged to add a warning
+that those who exercised the ponies would not necessarily lead
+them in the spring.
+
+Wilson at once began busily to paint, and Atkinson was equally
+busy unpacking and setting up his sterilizers and incubators.
+Wright began to wrestle with the electrical instruments; Oates
+started to make bigger stalls in the stables; Cherry-Garrard
+employed himself in building a stone house for taxidermy and
+with a view to getting hints for a shelter at Cape Crozier during
+the winter, while Taylor and Debenham took advantage of the last
+of the light to examine the topography of the peninsula. E. Evans
+surveyed the Cape and its neighborhood, and Simpson and Bowers, in
+addition to their other work, spent hours over balloon experiments.
+In fact everyone was overflowing with energy.
+
+On Friday, April 28, Scott, eager to get the party safely back
+from Hut Point, hoped that the sea had at last frozen over for
+good, but a gale on the following day played havoc with the ice;
+and although the strait rapidly froze again, the possibility of
+every gale clearing the sea was too great to be pleasant. Obviously,
+however, it was useless to worry over a state of affairs that
+could not be helped, and the arrangements for passing the winter
+steadily progressed.
+
+At Scott's request Cherry-Garrard undertook the editorship of
+the South Polar Times and the following notice was issued:
+
+  The first number of the South Polar Times will be published
+  on Midwinter Day.
+
+  All are asked to send in contributions, signed anonymously,
+  and to place these contributions in this box as soon as possible.
+  No contributions for this number will be accepted after May 31.
+
+  A selection of these will be made for publication. It is not
+  intended that the paper shall be too scientific.
+
+  Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry or drawing.
+  Contributors whose writings will lend themselves to illustration
+  are asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible.
+
+                                     The Editor,
+                                            S. P. T.
+
+The editor, warned by Scott that the work was not easy and required
+a lot of tact, at once placed great hopes in the assistance he
+would receive from Wilson, and how abundantly these hopes were
+fulfilled has been widely recognized not only by students of Polar
+literature, but also by those who admire art merely for art's sake.
+
+On the evening of Tuesday, May 2, Wilson opened the series of
+winter lectures with a paper on 'Antarctic Flying Birds,' and
+in turn Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Debenham and others lectured
+on their special subjects. But still the Discovery hut party did
+not appear, although the strait (by May 9) had been frozen over
+for nearly a week; and repeatedly Scott expressed a wish that
+they would return. In the meantime there was work and to spare
+for everyone, and as the days went by Scott was also given ample
+opportunities to get a thorough knowledge of his companions.
+
+'I do not think,' he wrote, 'there can be any life quite so
+demonstrative of character as that which we had on these
+expeditions. One sees a remarkable reassortment of values. Under
+ordinary conditions it is so easy to carry a point with a little
+bounce; self-assertion is a mask which covers many a weakness....
+Here the outward show is nothing, it is the inward purpose that
+counts. So the "gods" dwindle and the humble supplant them.
+Pretence is useless.
+
+'One sees Wilson busy with pencil and color box, rapidly and
+steadily adding to his portfolio of charming sketches and at
+intervals filling the gaps in his zoological work of Discovery
+times; withal ready and willing to give advice and assistance
+to others at all times; his sound judgment appreciated and
+therefore a constant referee.
+
+'Simpson, master of his craft... doing the work of two observers
+at least... So the current meteorological and magnetic observations
+are taken as never before on Polar expeditions.'
+
+'Wright, good-hearted, strong, keen, striving to saturate his
+mind with the ice problems of this wonderful region...'
+
+And then after referring in terms of praise to the industry of E.
+Evans, the versatile intellect of Taylor, and the thoroughness and
+conscientiousness of Debenham, Scott goes on to praise unreservedly
+the man to whom the whole expedition owed an immense debt of
+gratitude.
+
+'To Bowers' practical genius is owed much of the smooth working
+of our station. He has a natural method in line with which all
+arrangements fall, so that expenditure is easily and exactly
+adjusted to supply, and I have the inestimable advantage of knowing
+the length of time which each of our possessions will last us and
+the assurance that there can be no waste. Active mind and active
+body were never more happily blended. It is a restless activity
+admitting no idle moments and ever budding into new forms.
+
+'So we see the balloon ascending under his guidance and anon he is
+away over the floe tracking the silk thread which held it. Such
+a task completed, he is away to exercise his pony, and later out
+again with the dogs, the last typically self-suggested, because
+for the moment there is no one else to care for these animals....
+He is for the open air, seemingly incapable of realizing any
+discomfort from it, and yet his hours within doors spent with
+equal profit. For he is intent on tracking the problems of sledding
+food and clothes to their innermost bearings and is becoming an
+authority on past records. This will be no small help to me and
+one which others never could have given.
+
+'Adjacent to the physicists' corner of the hut Atkinson is quietly
+pursuing the subject of parasites. Already he is in a new world.
+The laying out of the fish trap was his action and the catches are
+his field of labor.... His bench with its array of microscopes,
+etc., is next the dark room in which Ponting spends the greater
+part of his life. I would describe him as sustained by artistic
+enthusiasm....
+
+'Cherry-Garrard is another of the open-air, self-effacing, quiet
+workers; his whole heart is in the life, with profound eagerness
+to help everyone. One has caught glimpses of him in tight places;
+sound all through and pretty hard also....
+
+'Oates' whole heart is in the ponies. He is really devoted to
+their care, and I believe will produce them in the best possible
+form for the sledding season. Opening out the stores, installing
+a blubber stove, etc., has kept him busy, whilst his satellite,
+Anton, is ever at work in the stables--an excellent little man.
+
+'P.O. Evans and Crean are repairing sleeping-bags, covering felt
+boots, and generally working on sledding kit. In fact there is
+no one idle, and no one who has the least prospect of idleness.
+
+On May 8 as one of the series of lectures Scott gave an outline
+of his plans for next season, and hinted that in his opinion the
+problem of reaching the Pole could best be solved by relying on
+the ponies and man haulage. With this opinion there was general
+agreement, for as regards glacier and summit work everyone seemed
+to distrust the dogs. At the end of the lecture he asked that the
+problem should be thought over and freely discussed, and that any
+suggestions should be brought to his notice. 'It's going to be
+a tough job; that is better realized the more one dives into it.'
+
+At last, on May 13, Atkinson brought news that the dogs were
+returning, and soon afterwards Meares and his team arrived, and
+reported that the ponies were not far behind. For more than three
+weeks the weather at Hut Point had been exceptionally calm and
+fine, and with joy Scott saw that all of the dogs were looking
+remarkably well, and that the two ponies also seemed to have
+improved. 'It is a great comfort to have the men and dogs back,
+and a greater to contemplate all the ten ponies comfortably stabled
+for the winter. Everything seems to depend on these animals.'
+
+With their various occupations, lectures in the evening, and
+games of football--when it was not unusual for the goal-keepers
+to get their toes frost-bitten--in the afternoons, the winter
+passed steadily on its way; the only stroke of misfortune being
+that one of the dogs died suddenly and that a post-mortem did
+not reveal any sufficient cause of death. This was the third
+animal that had died without apparent reason at winter-quarters,
+and Scott became more than ever convinced that to place any
+confidence in the dog teams would be a mistake.
+
+On Monday, May 22, Scott, Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson, P.O. Evans
+and Clissold went off to Cape Royds with a go-cart which consisted
+of a framework of steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels--
+and sleeping-bags, a cooker and a small quantity of provisions.
+The night was spent in Shackleton's hut, where a good quantity of
+provisions was found; but the most useful articles that the party
+discovered were five hymn-books, for hitherto the Sunday services
+had not been fully choral because seven hymn-books were all that
+could be mustered.
+
+[Illustration: "Birdie" Bowers reading the thermometer on the
+ramp, June 6th, 1911.]
+
+June 6 was Scott's birthday, a fact which his small company did
+not forget. At lunch an immense birthday cake appeared, the top
+of which had been decorated by Clissold with various devices in
+chocolate and crystallized fruit, a flag and photographs of Scott.
+A special dinner followed, and to this sumptuous meal they sat
+down with their sledge banners hung around them. 'After this
+luxurious meal everyone was very festive and amiably argumentative.
+As I write there is a group in the dark room discussing political
+progress with large discussions, another at one corner of the
+dinner table airing its views on the origin of matter and the
+probability of its ultimate discovery, and yet another debating
+military problems.... Perhaps these arguments are practically
+unprofitable, but they give a great deal of pleasure to the
+participants.... They are boys, all of them, but such excellent
+good-natured ones; there has been no sign of sharpness or anger,
+no jarring note, in all these wordy contests; all end with a
+laugh. Nelson has offered Taylor a pair of socks to teach him
+some geology! This lulls me to sleep!'
+
+On Monday evening, June 12, E. Evans gave a lecture on surveying,
+and Scott took the opportunity to note a few points to which he
+wanted especial attention to be directed. The essential points
+were:
+
+1. Every officer who takes part in the Southern journey ought to
+   have in his memory the approximate variation of the compass
+   at various stages of the journey and to know how to apply it
+   to obtain a true course from the compass....
+
+2. He ought to know what the true course is to reach one depôt
+   from another.
+
+3. He should be able to take an observation with the theodolite.
+
+4. He should be able to work out a meridian altitude observation.
+
+5. He could advantageously add to his knowledge the ability to
+   work out a longitude observation or an ex-meridian altitude.
+
+6. He should know how to read the sledgemeter.
+
+7. He should note and remember the error of the watch he carries
+   and the rate which is ascertained for it from time to time.
+
+8. He should assist the surveyor by noting the coincidences of
+   objects, the opening out of valleys, the observation of new
+   peaks, &c.
+
+That these hints upon Polar surveying did not fall upon deaf ears
+is proved by a letter Scott wrote home some four months later.
+In it he says '"Cherry" has just come to me with a very anxious
+face to say that I must not count on his navigating powers. For
+the moment I didn't know what he was driving at, but then I
+remembered that some months ago I said that it would be a good
+thing for all the officers going South to have some knowledge of
+navigation so that in emergency they would know how to steer a
+sledge home. It appears that "Cherry" thereupon commenced a serious
+and arduous course of abstruse navigational problems which he found
+exceedingly tough and now despaired mastering. Of course there is
+not one chance in a hundred that he will ever have to consider
+navigation on our journey and in that one chance the problem must
+be of the simplest nature, but it makes it much easier for me to
+have men who take the details of one's work so seriously and who
+strive so simply and honestly to make it successful.'
+
+In Wilson's diary there is also this significant entry: 'Working at
+latitude sights--mathematics which I hate--till bedtime. It will be
+wiser to know a little navigation on the Southern sledge journey.'
+
+Some time before Scott's suggestions stimulated his companions
+to master subjects which they found rather difficult and irksome,
+a regular daily routine had begun. About 7 A.M. Clissold began
+to prepare breakfast, and half an hour later Hooper started to
+sweep the floor and lay the table. Between 8 and 8.30 the men
+were out and about doing odd jobs, Anton going off to feed the
+ponies, Demetri to see to the dogs. Repeatedly Hooper burst upon
+the slumberers with announcements of the time, and presently
+Wilson and Bowers met in a state of nature beside a washing basin
+filled with snow and proceeded to rub glistening limbs with this
+chilly substance. A little later others with less hardiness could
+be seen making the most of a meager allowance of water. A few
+laggards invariably ran the nine o'clock rule very close, and
+a little pressure had to be applied so that they should not delay
+the day's work.
+
+By 9.20 breakfast was finished, and in ten minutes the table
+was cleared. Then for four hours the men were steadily employed
+on a program of preparation for sledding. About 1.30 a cheerful
+half-hour was spent over the mid-day meal, and afterwards, if
+the weather permitted, the ponies were exercised, and those who
+were not employed in this way generally exercised themselves
+in some way or other. After this the officers went steadily on
+with their special work until 6.30, when dinner was served and
+finished within the hour. Then came reading, writing, games, and
+usually the gramophone, but three nights of the week were given
+up to lectures. At 11 P.M. the acetylene lights were put out,
+and those who wished to stay up had to depend on candle-light.
+The majority of candles, however, were extinguished by midnight,
+and the night watchman alone remained awake to keep his vigil
+by the light of an oil lamp.
+
+Extra bathing took place either on Saturday afternoon or Sunday
+morning; chins were shaven, and possibly clean clothes put on.
+'Such signs, with the regular service on Sunday, mark the passage
+of the weeks. It is not a very active life, perhaps, but certainly
+not an idle one. Few of us sleep more than eight hours of the
+twenty-four.'
+
+On June 19, Day gave a lecture on his motor sledge and was very
+hopeful of success, but Scott again expressed his doubts and
+fears. 'I fear he is rather more sanguine in temperament than
+his sledge is reliable in action. I wish I could have more
+confidence in his preparations, as he is certainly a delightful
+companion.' Three days later Midwinter was celebrated with great
+festivities, and after lunch the Editor handed over the first
+number of the S. P. T. to Scott. Everyone at once gathered at
+the top of the table; 'It was like a lot of schoolgirls round a
+teacher' is the editor's description of the scene, and Scott read
+aloud most of the contents. An article called 'Valhalla,' written
+by Taylor, some verses called 'The Sleeping Bag,' and Wilson's
+illustrations to 'Antarctic Archives' were the popular favorites;
+indeed the editor attributed the success of the paper mainly to
+Wilson, though Day's delightful cover of carved venesta wood and
+sealskin was also 'a great help.' As all the contributions were
+anonymous great fun was provided by attempts to guess the various
+authors, and some of the denials made by the contributors were
+perhaps more modest than strictly truthful.
+
+These festive proceedings, however, were almost solemn when compared
+with the celebrations of the evening. In preparation for dinner the
+'Union Jacks' and sledge flags were hung about the large table, and
+at seven o'clock everyone sat down to a really good dinner.
+
+Scott spoke first, and drew attention to the nature of the
+celebration as a half-way mark not only in the winter but in
+the plans of the expedition. Fearing in his heart of hearts that
+some of the company did not realize how rapidly the weeks were
+passing, and that in consequence work which ought to have been in
+full swing had barely been begun, he went on to say that it was
+time they knew how they stood in every respect, and especially
+thanked the officer in charge of the stores and those who looked
+after the animals, for knowing the exact position as regards
+provision and transport. Then he said that in respect to the
+future chance must play a great part, but that experience showed
+him that no more fitting men could have been chosen to support
+him on the journey to the South than those who were to start in
+that direction in the following spring. Finally he thanked all
+of his companions for having put their shoulders to the wheel
+and given him so much confidence.
+
+Thereupon they drank to the Success of the Expedition, and
+afterwards everyone was called to speak in turn.
+
+'Needless to say, all were entirely modest and brief; unexpectedly,
+all had exceedingly kind things to say of me--in fact I was obliged
+to request the omissions of compliments at an early stage.
+Nevertheless it was gratifying to have a really genuine recognition
+of my attitude towards the scientific workers of the expedition,
+and I felt very warmly towards all these kind, good fellows for
+expressing it. If good will and fellowship count towards success,
+very surely shall we deserve to succeed. It was matter for comment,
+much applauded, that there had not been a single disagreement
+between any two members of our party from the beginning. By the
+end of dinner a very cheerful spirit prevailed.'
+
+The table having been cleared and upended and the chairs arranged
+in rows, Ponting displayed a series of slides from his own local
+negatives, and then, after the healths of Campbell's party and
+of those on board the Terra Nova had been drunk, a set of lancers
+was formed. In the midst of this scene of revelry Bowers suddenly
+appeared, followed by satellites bearing an enormous Christmas
+tree, the branches of which bore flaming candles, gaudy crackers,
+and little presents for everyone; the distribution of which caused
+infinite amusement. Thus the high festival of Midwinter was
+celebrated in the most convivial way, but that it was so reminiscent
+of a Christmas spent in England was partly, at any rate, due to
+those kind people who had anticipated the celebration by providing
+presents and other tokens of their interest in the expedition.
+
+'Few,' Scott says, 'could take great exception to so rare an
+outburst in a long run of quiet days. After all we celebrated
+the birth of a season, which for weal or woe must be numbered
+amongst the greatest in our lives.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+WINTER
+
+                            Come what may
+  Time and the hour runs through the darkest day.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+During the latter part of June the Cape Crozier Party were busy
+in making preparations for their departure. The object of their
+journey to the Emperor penguin rookery in the cold and darkness
+of an Antarctic winter was to secure eggs at such a stage as
+could furnish a series of early embryos, by means of which alone
+the particular points of interest in the development of the bird
+could be worked out. As the Emperor is peculiar in nesting at
+the coldest season of the year, this journey entailed the risk
+of sledge traveling in mid-winter, and the travelers had also to
+traverse about a hundred miles of the Barrier surface, and to
+cross a chaos of crevasses which had previously taken a party as
+much as two hours to cross by daylight.
+
+[Illustration: Pitching the double tent on the summit.
+(P.O. Evans; Dr. Wilson.)]
+
+Such was the enterprise for which Wilson, Bowers and Cherry-Garrard
+were with the help of others making preparations, and apart
+from the extraordinarily adventurous side of this journey, it
+was most interesting because the travelers were to make several
+experiments. Each man was to go on a different food scale,
+eiderdown sleeping-bags were to be carried inside the reindeer
+ones, and a new kind of crampon and a double tent were to be
+tried. 'I came across a hint as to the value of a double tent
+in Sverdrup's book, "New Land,"' Scott wrote on June 20, 'and
+P.O. Evans has made a lining for one of the tents, it is secured
+on the inner side of the poles and provides an air space inside
+the tent. I think it is going to be a great success.'
+
+By the 26th preparations for the party to start from Cape Evans
+were completed, their heavy load when they set out on the following
+morning being distributed on two 9-foot sledges, 'This winter
+travel is a new and bold venture, but the right men have gone
+to attempt it. All good luck go with them!'
+
+While the winter travelers were pursuing their strenuous way work
+went steadily on at Cape Evans, with no exciting nor alarming
+incident until July 4. On the morning of that day the wind blew
+furiously, but it moderated a little in the afternoon when Atkinson
+and Gran, without Scott's knowledge, decided to start over the
+floe for the North and South Bay thermometers respectively. This
+happened at 5.30 P.M., and Gran had returned by 6.45, but not
+until later did Scott hear that he had only gone two or three
+hundred yards from the land, and that it had taken him nearly
+an hour to find his way back.
+
+Atkinson's continued absence passed unnoticed until dinner was
+nearly finished, but Scott did not feel seriously alarmed until
+the wind sprang up again and still the wanderer did not return. At
+9.30, P.O. Evans, Crean and Keohane, who had been out looking for
+him, returned without any news, and the possibility of a serious
+accident had to be faced. Organized search parties were at once
+dispatched, Scott and Clissold alone remaining in the hut. And as
+the minutes slipped slowly by Scott's fears naturally increased,
+as Atkinson had started for a point not much more than a mile off
+and had been away more than five hours. From that fact only one
+conclusion could be drawn, and there was but small comfort to be
+got from the knowledge that every spot which was likely to be the
+scene of an accident would be thoroughly searched.
+
+Thus 11 o'clock came, then 11.30 with its six hours of absence;
+and the strain of waiting became almost unbearable. But a quarter
+of an hour later Scott heard voices from the Cape, and presently,
+to his extreme relief, Meares and Debenham appeared with Atkinson,
+who was badly frost-bitten in the hand, and, as was to be expected
+after such an adventure, very confused.
+
+At 2 A.M. Scott wrote in his diary, 'The search parties have
+returned and all is well again, but we must have no more of these
+very unnecessary escapades. Yet it is impossible not to realize
+that this bit of experience has done more than all the talking
+I could have ever accomplished to bring home to our people the
+dangers of a blizzard.'
+
+On investigation it was obvious that Atkinson had been in great
+danger. First of all he had hit Inaccessible Island, and not
+until he arrived in its lee did he discover that his hand was
+frost-bitten. Having waited there for some time he groped his
+way to the western end, and then wandering away in a swirl of
+drift to clear some irregularities at the ice-foot, he completely
+lost the island when he could only have been a few yards from it.
+In this predicament he clung to the old idea of walking up wind,
+and it must be considered wholly providential that on this course
+he next struck Tent Island. Round this island he walked under the
+impression that it was Inaccessible Island, and at last dug
+himself a shelter on its lee side. When the moon appeared he
+judged its bearing well, and as he traveled homeward was vastly
+surprised to see the real Inaccessible Island appear on his left.
+'There can be no doubt that in a blizzard a man has not only
+to safeguard the circulation in his limbs, but must struggle
+with a sluggishness of brain and an absence of reasoning power
+which is far more likely to undo him.'
+
+About mid-day on Friday, July 7, the worst gale that Scott had
+ever known in Antarctic regions began, and went on for a week.
+The force of the wind, although exceptional, had been equaled
+earlier in the year, but the extraordinary feature of this gale
+was the long continuance of a very cold temperature. On Friday
+night the thermometer registered -39°, and throughout Saturday
+and the greater part of Sunday it did not rise above -35°. It
+was Scott's turn for duty on Saturday night, and whenever he had
+to go out of doors the impossibility of enduring such conditions
+for any length of time was impressed forcibly upon him. The fine
+snow beat in behind his wind guard, the gusts took away his breath,
+and ten paces against the wind were enough to cause real danger
+of a frost-bitten face. To clear the anemometer vane he had to go
+to the other end of the hut and climb a ladder; and twice while
+engaged in this task he had literally to lean against the wind
+with head bent and face averted, and so stagger crab-like on his
+course.
+
+By Tuesday the temperature had risen to +5° or +7°, but the gale
+still continued and the air was thick with snow. The knowledge,
+however, that the dogs were comfortable was a great consolation to
+Scott, and he also found both amusement and pleasure in observing
+the customs of the people in charge of the stores. The policy
+of every storekeeper was to have something up his sleeve for a
+rainy day, and an excellent policy Scott thought it. 'Tools, metal
+material, leather, straps, and dozens of items are administered
+with the same spirit of jealous guardianship by Day, Lashly,
+Oates and Meares, while our main storekeeper Bowers even affects
+to bemoan imaginary shortages. Such parsimony is the best guarantee
+that we are prepared to face any serious call.'
+
+For an hour on Wednesday afternoon the wind moderated, and the
+ponies were able to get a short walk over the floe, but this was
+only a temporary lull, for the gale was soon blowing as furiously
+as ever. And the following night brought not only a continuance
+of the bad weather but also bad news. At mid-day one of the best
+ponies, Bones, suddenly went off his feed, and in spite of Oates'
+and Anton's most careful attention he soon became critically ill.
+Oates gave him an opium pill and later on a second, and sacks
+were heated and placed on the suffering animal, but hour after
+hour passed without any improvement. As the evening wore on
+Scott again and again visited the stable, only to hear the same
+tale from Oates and Crean, [Footnote: Bones was the pony which
+had been allotted to Crean.] who never left their patient.
+'Towards midnight,' Scott says, 'I felt very downcast. It is so
+certain that we cannot afford to lose a single pony--the margin of
+safety has already been overstepped, we are reduced to face the
+circumstance that we must keep all the animals alive or greatly
+risk failure.'
+
+Shortly after midnight, however, there were signs of an improvement,
+and two or three hours afterwards the pony was out of danger and
+proceeded to make a rapid and complete recovery. So far, since the
+return to Cape Evans, the ponies had given practically no cause for
+anxiety, and in consequence Scott's hopes that all would continue
+to be well with them had steadily grown; but this shock shattered
+his sense of security, and although various alterations were made
+in the arrangements of the stables and extra precautions were taken
+as regards food, he was never again without alarms for the safety
+of the precious ponies.
+
+Another raging blizzard swept over Cape Evans on July 22 and 23,
+but the spirit of good comradeship still survived in spite of the
+atrocious weather and the rather monotonous life. 'There is no
+longer room for doubt that we shall come to our work with a unity
+of purpose and a disposition for mutual support which have never
+been equaled in these paths of activity. Such a spirit should tide
+us over all minor difficulties.'
+
+By the end of the month Scott was beginning to wonder why the
+Crozier Party did not return, but on Tuesday, August 1, they
+came back looking terribly weather-worn and 'after enduring for
+five weeks the hardest conditions on record.' Their faces were
+scarred and wrinkled, their eyes dull, and their hands whitened
+and creased with the constant exposure to damp and cold. Quite
+obviously the main part of their afflictions arose from sheer
+lack of sleep, and after a night's rest they were very different
+people both in mind and body.
+
+Writing on August 2, Scott says, 'Wilson is very thin, but this
+morning very much his keen, wiry self--Bowers is quite himself
+to-day. Cherry-Garrard is slightly puffy in the face and still
+looks worn. It is evident that he has suffered most severely--but
+Wilson tells me that his spirit never wavered for a moment. Bowers
+has come through best, all things considered, and I believe that
+he is the hardest traveler that ever undertook a Polar journey,
+as well as one of the most undaunted; more by hint than direct
+statement I gather his value to the party, his untiring energy
+and the astonishing physique which enables him to continue to
+work under conditions which are absolutely paralyzing to others.
+Never was such a sturdy, active, undefeatable little man.'
+
+Gradually Scott gathered an account of this wonderful journey
+from the three travelers who had made it. For more than a week
+the thermometer fell below -60°, and on one night the minimum
+showed -71°, and on the next -77°. Although in this fearful cold
+the air was comparatively still, occasional little puffs of wind
+eddied across the snow plain with blighting effect. 'No civilized
+being has ever encountered such conditions before with only a
+tent of thin canvas to rely on for shelter.' Records show that
+Amundsen when journeying to the N. magnetic pole met temperatures
+of a similar degree, but he was with Esquimaux who built him
+an igloo shelter nightly, he had also a good measure of daylight,
+and finally he turned homeward and regained his ship after five
+days' absence, while this party went outward and were absent for
+five weeks.
+
+Nearly a fortnight was spent in crossing the coldest region,
+and then rounding C. Mackay they entered the wind-swept area.
+Blizzard followed blizzard, but in a light that was little better
+than complete darkness they staggered on. Sometimes they found
+themselves high on the slopes of Terror on the left of the track,
+sometimes diving on the right amid crevasses and confused ice
+disturbance. Having reached the foothills near Cape Crozier they
+ascended 800 feet, packed their belongings over a moraine ridge,
+and began to build a hut. Three days were spent in building the
+stone walls and completing the roof with the canvas brought for
+the purpose, and then at last they could attend to the main object
+of their journey.
+
+The scant twilight at mid-day was so short that a start had to be
+made in the dark, and consequently they ran the risk of missing
+their way in returning without light. At their first attempt they
+failed to reach the penguin rookery, but undismayed they started
+again on the following day, and wound their way through frightful
+ice disturbances under the high basalt cliffs. In places the rock
+overhung, and at one spot they had to creep through a small channel
+hollowed in the ice. At last the sea-ice was reached, but by that
+time the light was so far spent that everything had to be rushed.
+Instead of the 2,000 or 3,000 nesting birds that had been seen
+at this rookery in Discovery days, they could only count about a
+hundred. As a reason for this a suggestion was made that possibly
+the date was too early, and that if the birds had not permanently
+deserted the rookery only the first arrivals had been seen.
+
+With no delay they killed and skinned three penguins to get blubber
+for their stove, and with six eggs, only three of which were saved,
+made a hasty dash for their camp, which by good luck they regained.
+
+On that same night a blizzard began, and from moment to moment
+increased in fury. Very soon they found that the place where they
+had, with the hope of shelter, built their hut, was unfortunately
+chosen, for the wind instead of striking them directly was deflected
+on to them in furious, whirling gusts. Heavy blocks of snow and
+rock placed on the roof were hurled away and the canvas ballooned
+up, its disappearance being merely a question of time.
+
+Close to the hut they had erected their tent and had left several
+valuable articles inside it; the tent had been well spread and
+amply secured with snow and boulders, but one terrific gust tore
+it up and whirred it away. Inside the hut they waited for the
+roof to vanish, and wondered, while they vainly tried to make it
+secure, what they could do if it went. After fourteen hours it
+disappeared, as they were trying to pin down one corner. Thereupon
+the smother of snow swept over them, and all they could do was
+to dive immediately for their sleeping-bags. Once Bowers put
+out his head and said, 'We're all right,' in as ordinary tones
+as he could manage, whereupon Wilson and Cherry-Garrard replied,
+'Yes, we're all right'; then all of them were silent for a night
+and half a day, while the wind howled and howled, and the snow
+entered every chink and crevice of their sleeping-bags.
+
+'This gale,' Scott says, 'was the same (July 23) in which we
+registered our maximum wind force, and it seems probable that
+it fell on Cape Crozier even more violently than on us.'
+
+The wind fell at noon on the following day, and the wretched
+travelers then crept from their icy nests, spread the floorcloth
+over their heads, and lit their primus. For the first time in
+forty-eight hours they tasted food, and having eaten their meal
+under these extraordinary conditions they began to talk of plans
+to build shelters on the homeward route. Every night, they decided,
+they must dig a large pit and cover it as best they could with
+their floorcloth.
+
+Fortune, however, was now to befriend them, as about half a mile
+from the hut Bowers discovered their tent practically uninjured. But
+on the following day when they started homeward another blizzard
+fell upon them, and kept them prisoners for two more days.
+
+By this time the miserable condition of their effects was beyond
+description. The sleeping-bags could not be rolled up, in fact
+they were so thoroughly frozen that attempts to bend them actually
+broke the skins. All socks, finnesko, and mitts had long been
+coated with ice, and when placed in breast-pockets or inside
+vests at night they did not even show signs of thawing. Indeed
+it is scarcely possible to realize the horrible discomforts of
+these three forlorn travelers, as they plodded back across the
+Barrier in a temperature constantly below -60°.
+
+[Illustration: Adélie penguin on nest.]
+
+[Illustration: Emperor penguins on sea-ice.]
+
+'Wilson,' Scott wrote, 'is disappointed at seeing so little of
+the penguins, but to me and to everyone who has remained here the
+result of this effort is the appeal it makes to our imagination
+as one of the most gallant stories of Polar history. That men
+should wander forth in the depth of a Polar night to face the
+most dismal cold and the fiercest gales in darkness is something
+new; that they should have persisted in this effort in spite of
+every adversity for five full weeks is heroic. It makes a tale
+for our generation which I hope may not be lost in the telling.
+
+'Moreover the material results are by no means despicable. We shall
+know now when that extraordinary bird the Emperor penguin lays
+its eggs, and under what conditions; but even if our information
+remains meager concerning its embryology, our party has shown
+the nature of the conditions which exist on the Great Barrier in
+winter. Hitherto we have only imagined their severity; now we have
+proof, and a positive light is thrown on the local climatology
+of our Strait.'
+
+Of the indomitable spirit shown by his companions on this journey
+Cherry-Garrard gives wonderful and convincing proof in his diary.
+Bowers, with his capacity for sleeping under the most distressing
+conditions, was 'absolutely magnificent'; and the story of how
+he arranged a line by which he fastened the cap of the tent to
+himself, so that if it went away a second time it should not be
+unaccompanied, is only one of the many tales of his resource and
+determination.
+
+In addition to the eggs that the party had brought back and the
+knowledge of the winter conditions on the Barrier that they had
+gained, their journey settled several points in connection with
+future sledding work. They had traveled on a very simple food
+ration in different and extreme proportions, for the only provisions
+they took were pemmican, butter, biscuit and tea. After a short
+experience they found that Wilson, who had arranged for the greatest
+quantity of fat, had too much of it, while Cherry-Garrard, who had
+declared for biscuit, had more than he could eat. Then a middle
+course was struck which gave a proportion agreeable to all of them,
+and which at the same time suited the total quantities of their
+various articles of food. The only change that was suggested was
+the addition of cocoa for the evening meal, because the travelers,
+thinking that tea robbed them of their slender chance of sleep,
+had contented themselves with hot water. 'In this way,' Scott
+decided, 'we have arrived at a simple and suitable ration for the
+inland plateau.'
+
+Of the sleeping-bags there was little to be said, for although the
+eiderdown bag might be useful for a short spring trip, it became
+iced up too quickly to be much good on a long journey. Bowers
+never used his eiderdown bag, [Footnote: He insisted upon giving
+it to Cherry-Garrard. 'It was,' the latter says, 'wonderfully
+self-sacrificing of him, more than I can write. I felt a brute
+to take it, but I was getting useless unless I got some sleep,
+which my big bag would not allow.'] and in some miraculous manner
+he managed more than once to turn his reindeer bag. The weights
+of the sleeping-bags before and after the journey give some idea
+of the ice collected.
+
+                                       Starting  Final
+                                       Weight    Weight
+  Wilson, reindeer and eiderdown.      17 lbs.   40 lbs.
+  Bowers, reindeer only.               17  "     33  "
+  C.-Garrard, reindeer and eiderdown.  18  "     45  "
+
+The double tent was considered a great success, and the new crampons
+were much praised except by Bowers, whose fondness for the older
+form was not to be shaken. 'We have discovered,' Scott stated
+in summing up the results of the journey, 'a hundred details of
+clothes, mitts, and footwear: there seems no solution to the
+difficulties which attach to these articles in extreme cold; all
+Wilson can say, speaking broadly, is "The gear is excellent,
+excellent." One continues to wonder as to the possibilities of
+fur clothing as made by the Esquimaux, with a sneaking feeling
+that it may outclass our more civilized garb. For us this can
+only be a matter of speculation, as it would have been quite
+impossible to have obtained such articles. With the exception
+of this radically different alternative, I feel sure we are as
+near perfection as experience can direct. At any rate we can
+now hold that our system of clothing has come through a severer
+test than any other, fur included.'
+
+With the return of the Cape Crozier Party lectures were resumed,
+and apart from one or two gales the weather was so good and the
+returning light so stimulating both to man and beast, that the
+spirits of the former rose apace while those of the latter became
+almost riotous when exercised. On August 10, Scott and the new
+masters were to take charge on September 1, so that they could
+exercise their respective animals and get to know them as well
+as possible. The new arrangement was:
+
+  Bowers             Victor
+  Wilson             Nobby
+  Atkinson           Jehu
+  Wright             Chinaman
+  Cherry-Garrard     Michael
+  Evans (P.O.)       Snatcher
+  Crean              Bones
+  Keohane            Jimmy Pigg
+  Oates              Christopher
+  Scott and Oates    Snippets.
+
+On the same day Oates gave his second excellent lecture on 'Horse
+Management,' and afterwards the problem of snow-shoes was seriously
+discussed. Besides the problem of the form of the shoes was also
+the question of the means of attachment, and as to both points
+all sorts of suggestions were made. At that time Scott's opinion
+was that the pony snow-shoes they had, which were made on the
+grating or racquet principle, would probably be the best, the
+only alternative seeming to be to perfect the principle of the
+lawn mowing shoe. 'Perhaps,' he adds, 'we shall come to both
+kinds: the first for the quiet animals and the last for the more
+excitable. I am confident the matter is of first importance.'
+
+Ten days later Scott had to admit that the ponies were becoming
+a handful, and for the time being they would have been quite
+unmanageable if they had been given any oats. As it was,
+Christopher, Snippets and Victor were suffering from such high
+spirits that all three of them bolted on the 21st.
+
+A prolonged gale arrived just as the return of the sun was due,
+and for three days everyone was more or less shut up in the hut.
+Although the temperature was not especially low anyone who went
+outside for even the briefest moment had to dress in wind clothes,
+because exposed woolen or cloth materials became so instantaneously
+covered with powdery crystals, that when they were brought back
+into the warmth they were soon wringing wet. When, however, there
+was no drift it was quicker and easier to slip on an overcoat, and
+for his own garment of this description Scott admits a sentimental
+attachment. 'I must confess,' he says, 'an affection for my veteran
+uniform overcoat, inspired by its persistent utility. I find that
+it is twenty-three years of age and can testify to its strenuous
+existence. It has been spared neither rain, wind, nor salt sea
+spray, tropic heat nor Arctic cold; it has outlived many sets of
+buttons, from their glittering gilded youth to green old age, and
+it supports its four-stripe shoulder straps as gaily as the single
+lace ring of the early days which proclaimed it the possession of
+a humble sub-lieutenant. Withal it is still a very long way from
+the fate of the "one-horse shay."'
+
+Not until August 26 did the sun appear, and everyone was at once
+out and about and in the most cheerful frame of mind. The shouts
+and songs of men could be heard for miles, and the outlook on
+life of every member of the expedition seemed suddenly to have
+changed. For if there is little that is new to be said about the
+return of the sun in Polar regions, it must always be a very real
+and important event to those who have lived without it for so many
+months, and who have almost forgotten the sensation of standing in
+brilliant sunshine.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+GOOD-BYE TO CAPE EVANS
+
+  So far as I can venture to offer an opinion on such a matter,
+  the purpose of our being in existence, the highest object that
+  human beings can set before themselves, is not the pursuit of
+  any such chimera as the annihilating of the unknown; but it is
+  simply the unwearied endeavor to remove its boundaries a little
+  further from our little sphere of action.
+  --HUXLEY.
+
+With the return of the sun preparations for the summer campaign
+continued more zealously and industriously than ever, and what
+seemed like a real start was made when Meares and Demetri went
+off to Hut Point on September 1 with the dog teams. For such an
+early departure there was no real reason unless Meares hoped to
+train the dogs better when he had got them to himself; but he
+chose to start, and Scott, after setting out the work he had to
+do, left him to come and go between the two huts as he pleased.
+
+Meanwhile with Bowers' able assistance Scott set to work at sledding
+figures, and although he felt as the scheme developed that their
+organization would not be found wanting, he was also a little
+troubled by the immense amount of detail, and by the fact that
+every arrangement had to be more than usually elastic, so that
+both the complete success and the utter failure of the motors
+could be taken fully into account. 'I think,' he says, 'that our
+plan will carry us through without the motors (though in that
+case nothing else must fail), and will take full advantage of
+such help as the motors may give.'
+
+The spring traveling could not be extensive, because of necessity
+the majority of the company had to stay at home and exercise the
+ponies, which was not likely to be a light task when the food of
+these enterprising animals was increased. E. Evans, Gran and Forde,
+however, were to go and re-mark Corner Camp, and then Meares with
+his dogs was to carry as much fodder there as possible, while
+Bowers, Simpson, P.O. Evans and Scott were to 'stretch their legs'
+across the Western Mountains.
+
+[Illustration: Dog party starting from Hut Point.]
+
+[Illustration: Dog lines.]
+
+During the whole of the week ending on September 10, Scott was
+occupied with making detailed plans for the Southern journey,
+every figure being checked by Bowers, 'who has been an enormous
+help.' And later on, in speaking of the transport department,
+Scott says, 'In spite of all the care I have taken to make the
+details of my plan clear by lucid explanation, I find that Bowers
+is the only man on whom I can thoroughly rely to carry out the
+work without mistakes.' The result of this week's work and study
+was that Scott came to the conclusion that there would be no
+difficulty in getting to the Glacier if the motors were successful,
+and that even if the motors failed they still ought to get there
+with any ordinary degree of good fortune. To work three units of
+four men from that point onward would, he admitted, take a large
+amount of provisions, but with the proper division he thought that
+they ought to attain their object. 'I have tried,' he said, 'to take
+every reasonable possibility of misfortune into consideration;...
+I fear to be too sanguine, yet taking everything into consideration
+I feel that our chances ought to be good. The animals are in
+splendid form. Day by day the ponies get fitter as their exercise
+increases.... But we cannot spare any of the ten, and so there must
+always be anxiety of the disablement of one or more before their
+work is done.'
+
+Apart from the great help he would obtain if the motors were
+successful, Scott was very eager that they should be of some
+use so that all the time, money and thought which had been given
+to their construction should not be entirely wasted. But whatever
+the outcome of these motors, his belief in the possibility of
+motor traction for Polar work remained, though while it was in
+an untried and evolutionary state he was too cautious and wise
+a leader to place any definite reliance upon it.
+
+If, however, Scott was more than a little doubtful about the motors,
+he was absolutely confident about the men who were chosen for the
+Southern advance. 'All are now experienced sledge travelers, knit
+together with a bond of friendship that has never been equaled
+under such circumstances. Thanks to these people, and more
+especially to Bowers and Petty Officer Evans, there is not a
+single detail of our equipment which is not arranged with the
+utmost care and in accordance with the tests of experience.'
+
+On Saturday, September 9, E. R. Evans, Forde and Gran left for
+Corner Camp, and then for a few days Scott was busy finishing
+up the Southern plans, getting instruction in photography, and
+preparing for his journey to the west. On the Southern trip he had
+determined to make a better show of photographic work than had yet
+been accomplished, and with Ponting as eager to help others as he
+was to produce good work himself an invaluable instructor was at
+hand.
+
+With the main objects of having another look at the Ferrar Glacier
+and of measuring the stakes put out by Wright in the previous
+year, of bringing their sledge impressions up to date, and of
+practicing with their cameras, Scott and his party started off
+to the west on the 15th, without having decided precisely where
+they were going or how long they would stay away.
+
+Two and a half days were spent in reaching Butter Point, and then
+they proceeded up the Ferrar Glacier and reached the Cathedral
+Rocks on the 19th. There they found the stakes placed by Wright
+across the glacier, and spent the remainder of that day and the
+whole of the next in plotting accurately their position. 'Very
+cold wind down glacier increasing. In spite of this Bowers wrestled
+with theodolite. He is really wonderful. I have never seen anyone
+who could go on so long with bare fingers. My own fingers went
+every few moments.'
+
+After plotting out the figures it turned out that the movement
+varied from 24 to 32 feet, an extremely important observation,
+and the first made on the movements of the coastal glaciers.
+Though a greater movement than Scott expected to find, it was
+small enough to show that the idea of comparative stagnation was
+correct. On the next day they came down the Glacier, and then went
+slowly up the coast, dipping into New Harbor, where they climbed
+the moraine, took angles and collected rock specimens. At Cape
+Bernacchi a quantity of pure quartz was found, and in it veins of
+copper ore--an interesting discovery, for it was the first find
+of minerals suggestive of the possibility of working.
+
+On the next day they sighted a long, low ice wall, and at a distance
+mistook it for a long glacier tongue stretching seaward from the
+land. But as they approached it they saw a dark mark, and it
+suddenly dawned upon them that the tongue was detached from the
+land. Half recognizing familiar features they turned towards it,
+and as they got close they saw that it was very like their old
+Erebus Glacier Tongue. Then they sighted a flag upon it, and
+realized that it was the piece broken off from the Erebus Tongue.
+Near the outer end they camped, and climbing on to it soon found
+the depôt of fodder left by Campbell, and the line of stakes
+planted to guide the ponies in the autumn. So there, firmly
+anchored, was the piece broken from the Glacier Tongue in the
+previous March, a huge tract about two miles long which had
+turned through half a circle, so that the old western end was
+towards the east. 'Considering the many cracks in the ice mass
+it is most astonishing that it should have remained intact
+throughout its sea voyage. At one time it was suggested that the
+hut should be placed on this Tongue. What an adventurous voyage
+the occupants would have had! The Tongue which was 5 miles south
+of Cape Evans is now 4° miles W.N.W. of it.'
+
+[Illustration: Panorama at Cape Evans. (Cliffs of Barne Glacier;
+Open Sea; Mount Erebus.)]
+
+[Illustration: Berg in South Bay.]
+
+From the Glacier Tongue they still pushed north, and on the 24th,
+just before the fog descended upon them, they got a view along
+the stretch of coast to the north. So far the journey had been
+more pleasant than Scott had anticipated, but two days after they
+had turned back a heavy blizzard descended upon them, and although
+an attempt was made to continue marching, they were soon compelled
+to camp. After being held up completely on the 27th they started
+again on the following day in a very frost-biting wind. From time
+to time they were obliged to halt so that their frozen features
+could be brought round, Simpson suffering more than the rest of
+the party; and with drift coming on again they were weather-bound
+in their tent during the early part of the afternoon. At 3 P.M.,
+however, the drift ceased, and they started off once more in a
+wind as biting as ever. Then Scott saw an ominous yellow fuzzy
+appearance on the southern ridges of Erebus, and knew that another
+snowstorm was approaching; but hoping that this storm would miss
+them, he kept on until Inaccessible Island was suddenly blotted
+out. Thereupon a rush was made for a camp site, but the blizzard
+swept upon them, and in the driving snow they found it utterly
+impossible to set up their inner tent, and could only just manage
+to set up the outer one. A few hours later the weather again
+cleared, and as they were more or less snowed up, they decided
+to push for Cape Evans in spite of the wind. 'We arrived in at
+1.15 A.M., pretty well done. The wind never let up for an instant;
+the temperature remained about -16°, and the 21 statute miles
+which we marched in the day must be remembered amongst the most
+strenuous in my memory.... The objects of our little journey
+were satisfactorily accomplished, but the greatest source of
+pleasure to me is to realize that I have such men as Bowers and
+P.O. Evans for the Southern journey. I do not think that harder
+men or better sledge travelers ever took the trail. Bowers is
+a little wonder. I realize all that he must have done for the
+C. Crozier Party in their far severer experience.'
+
+Late as the hour was when the travelers appeared at Cape Evans,
+everyone was soon up and telling Scott what had happened during
+his absence. E. Evans, Gran and Forde had reached Corner Camp and
+found that it showed up well, and consequently all anxiety as to
+the chance of finding One Ton Camp was removed. Forde, however,
+had got his hand so badly frost-bitten that he was bound to be
+incapacitated for some time, and this meant that the arrangements
+that had already been made for a geological party to go to the
+west would in all probability have to be altered.
+
+All of the ponies were reported to be very well, but Scott's joy
+at this news vanished on October 3 when Atkinson reported that
+Jehu was still too weak to pull a load. Oates also was having
+great trouble with Christopher, who did not appreciate being
+harnessed and generally bolted at the mere sight of a sledge.
+'He is going,' Scott, in referring to this most intractable pony,
+wrote, 'to be a trial, but he is a good strong pony and should
+do yeoman service. Day is increasingly hopeful about the motors.
+He is an ingenious person and has been turning up new rollers out
+of a baulk of oak supplied by Meares, and with Simpson's small
+motor as a lathe. The motors may save the situation.'
+
+On the 5th Scott made a thorough inspection of Jehu and became
+convinced that he was useless. Chinaman and James Pigg were also
+no towers of strength. 'But the other seven are in fine form and
+must bear the brunt of the work somehow. If we suffer more loss
+we shall depend on the motor, and then!... well, one must face
+the bad as well as the good.'
+
+During the following day, after Christopher had given his usual
+exhibition at the start, Wilson, Oates, Cherry-Garrard and Crean
+went over to Hut Point with their ponies; and late on the same
+afternoon the Hut Point telephone bell suddenly rang. The line
+had been laid by Meares some time before, but hitherto there
+had been no communication. Now, however, Scott heard a voice and
+found himself able to hold long conversations with Meares and
+Oates. 'Not a very wonderful fact, perhaps, but it seems wonderful
+in this primitive land to be talking to one's fellow beings 15
+miles away. Oates told me that the ponies had arrived in fine
+order, Christopher a little done, but carrying the heaviest load.
+If we can keep the telephone going it will be a great boon,
+especially to Meares later in the season.'
+
+After service on Sunday morning Scott, continuing his course of
+photography under the excellent instruction of Ponting, went out
+to the Pressure Ridge, and thoroughly enjoyed himself. Worries,
+however, were in store, for later in the afternoon, by which
+time Scott had returned to the hut, a telephone message from
+Nelson's igloo brought the news that Clissold had fallen from a
+berg and hurt his back. In three minutes Bowers had organized a
+sledge party, and fortunately Atkinson was on the spot and able
+to join it. Scott himself at once hurried over the land, and
+found Ponting very distressed and Clissold practically insensible.
+
+It appeared that Clissold had been acting as Ponting's 'model,'
+and that they had been climbing about the berg to get pictures.
+Ponting had lent his crampons and ice-axe to Clissold, but the
+latter nevertheless missed his footing after one of the 'poses,'
+and after sliding over a rounded surface of ice for some twelve
+feet, had dropped six feet on to a sharp angle in the wall of
+the berg. Unquestionably Clissold was badly hurt, and although
+neither Wilson nor Atkinson thought that anything very serious
+had happened, there was no doubt that the accident would prevent
+him from taking the place allotted to him in the motor sledge
+party. Thus there were two men on the sick list, and after all
+the trouble that had been taken to get things ready for the summer
+journeys Scott naturally felt that these misfortunes were more
+than a little deplorable. On the other hand, all was going well
+with the ponies, though Christopher's dislike to sledges seemed
+rather to increase than to lessen. When once he was in the sledge
+he had always behaved himself until October 13, when he gave a
+really great exhibition of perversity. On this occasion a dog
+frightened him, and having twisted the rope from Oates' hands
+he bolted for all he was worth. When, however, he had obtained
+his freedom, he set about most systematically to get rid of his
+load. At first he gave sudden twists and thus dislodged two bales
+of hay, but when he caught sight of some other sledges a better
+idea at once struck him, and he dashed straight at them with
+the evident intention of getting free of his load at one fell
+swoop. Two or three times he ran for Bowers and then he turned
+his attention to Keohane, his plan being to charge from a short
+distance with teeth bared and heels flying. By this time his
+antics had brought a small group to the scene, and presently
+Oates, Bowers, Nelson and Atkinson managed to clamber on to the
+sledge. Undaunted, however, by this human burden, he tried to
+treat it as he had the bales of hay, and he did manage to dispose
+of Atkinson with violence; but the others dug their heels into the
+snow and succeeded at last in tiring him out. 'I am exceedingly
+glad,' Scott says, 'there are not other ponies like him. These
+capers promise trouble, but I think a little soft snow on the
+Barrier may effectually cure them.'
+
+On Tuesday, October 17, the motors were to be taken on to the floe,
+but the attempt was not successful, the axle casing (aluminum)
+splitting soon after the trial had begun. Once again Scott expressed
+his conviction that the motors would be of little assistance,
+though at the same time retaining his opinion that with more
+experience they might have been of the greatest service. 'The
+trouble is that if they fail, no one will ever believe this.'
+
+The days at Cape Evans were now rapidly drawing to a close. Plans
+and preparations occupied the attention of everyone, and Scott's
+time was almost wholly occupied in preparing details and in writing.
+'Words,' he said in a letter dated October, 1912, 'must always
+fail me when I talk of Bill Wilson. I believe he really is the
+finest character I ever met--the closer one gets to him the more
+there is to admire. Every quality is so solid and dependable;
+cannot you imagine how that counts down here? Whatever the matter,
+one knows Bill will be sound, shrewdly practical, intensely loyal,
+and quite unselfish. Add to this a wider knowledge of persons and
+things than is at first guessable, a quiet vein of humor and really
+consummate tact, and you have some idea of his values. I think he
+is the most popular member of the party, and that is saying much.
+
+'Bowers is all and more than I ever expected of him. He is a
+positive treasure, absolutely trustworthy, and prodigiously
+energetic. He is about the hardest man amongst us, and that is
+saying a good deal--nothing seems to hurt his tough little body,
+and certainly no hardship daunts his spirit. I shall have a
+hundred little tales to tell you of his indefatigable zeal, his
+unselfishness, and his inextinguishable good humor. He surprises
+always, for his intelligence is of quite a high order and his
+memory for details most exceptional. You can imagine him, as he is,
+an indispensable assistant to me in every detail concerning the
+management and organization of our sledding work and a delightful
+companion on the march.
+
+'One of the greatest successes is Wright. He is very hard working,
+very thorough, and absolutely ready for anything. Like Bowers he
+has taken to sledding like a duck to water, and although he hasn't
+had such severe testing, I believe he would stand it pretty nearly
+as well. Nothing ever seems to worry him, and I can't imagine he
+ever complained of anything in his life.
+
+'The Soldier is very popular with all--a delightfully humorous
+cheery old pessimist--striving with the ponies night and day and
+bringing woeful accounts of their small ailments into the hut.
+
+'Atkinson will go far, I think; he has a positive passion for
+helping others. It is extraordinary what pains he will take to
+do a kind thing unobtrusively.
+
+'Cherry-Garrard is clean grit right through; one has caught glimpses
+of him in tight places.
+
+'Day has the sweetest temper and all sorts of other nice
+characteristics. Moreover he has a very remarkable mechanical
+ability, and I believe is about as good a man as could have been
+selected for his job.
+
+'I don't think I will give such long descriptions of the others,
+though most of them deserve equally high praise. Taken all round,
+they are a perfectly excellent lot.
+
+'The men are equally fine. P.O. Evans looks after our sledges
+and sledge equipment with a care of management and a fertility
+of resource which is truly astonishing. On "trek" he is just as
+sound and hard as ever, and has an inexhaustible store of anecdote.
+Crean is perfectly happy, ready to do anything and go anywhere,
+the harder the work, the better. Evans and Crean are great friends.
+Lashly is his old self in every respect, hard working to the limit,
+quiet, abstemious and determined. You see altogether I have a good
+set of people with me, and it will go hard if we don't achieve
+something.
+
+'The study of individual characters is a pleasant pastime in such
+a mixed community of thoroughly nice people... men of the most
+diverse upbringing and experience are really pals with one another,
+and the subjects which would be delicate ground of discussion
+between acquaintances are just those which are most freely used
+for jest.... I have never seen a temper lost in these discussions.
+So as I sit here I am very satisfied with these things. I think
+that it would have been difficult to better the organization of
+the party--every man has his work and is especially adapted for
+it; there is no gap and no overlap. It is all that I desired, and
+the same might well be said of the men selected to do the work....
+
+'I don't know what to think of Amundsen's chances. If he gets
+to the Pole, it must be before we do, as he is bound to travel
+fast with dogs and pretty certain to start early. On this account
+I decided at a very early date to act exactly as I should have
+done had he not existed. Any attempt to race must have wrecked
+my plan, besides which it doesn't appear the sort of thing one
+is out for.
+
+'Possibly you will have heard something before this reaches you.
+Oh! and there are all sorts of possibilities. In any case you
+can rely on my not doing or saying anything foolish--only I'm
+afraid you must be prepared for the chance of finding our venture
+much belittled.
+
+'After all, it is the work that counts, not the applause that
+follows.'
+
+The transport of emergency stores to Hut Point was delayed by
+the weather until October 22, but on that day the most important
+stores--which were for the returning depôts and to provision
+the Discovery hut in case the Terra Nova did not arrive--were
+taken by Wilson, Bowers and P.O. Evans and their ponies to Glacier
+Tongue. Accidents, however, were still to happen, for while Bowers
+was holding the ponies so that Wilson and Evans could unload them,
+Victor got the hook, which fastened the harness to the trace of
+another pony, into his nose. At that moment a lot of drift swept
+upon them, and immediately all three of the ponies stampeded,
+Snatcher making for home and Nobby for the Western Mountains,
+while Victor, with Bowers still hanging on to him, just bolted
+here, there and everywhere. Wilson and P.O. Evans at once started
+after their ponies, and the former by means of a biscuit as a bait
+managed to catch Nobby west of Tent Island, but Snatcher arrived,
+with a single trace and dangling sledge, by himself at Cape Evans.
+Half an hour after Wilson had returned Bowers brought in Victor,
+who had a gash in his nose, and was very much distressed. 'I
+don't know,' Scott says, 'how Bowers managed to hang on to the
+frightened animal; I don't believe anyone else would have done
+so.... Two lessons arise. First, however quiet the animals appear
+they must not be left by their drivers--no chance must be taken;
+secondly, the hooks on the hames of the harness must be altered
+in shape. I suppose such incidents as this were to be expected,
+one cannot have ponies very fresh and vigorous and expect them
+to behave like lambs, but I shall be glad when we are off and
+can know more definitely what resources we can count on.'
+
+In addition to this mishap, a football match had been got up two
+days before, in which Debenham hurt his knee. Thus the Western
+Party was again delayed, the only compensation for this accident
+being that Forde's hand would have a better chance of recovery
+while Debenham's knee was given time to improve.
+
+On the following day the motors seemed to be ready for the start,
+but various little defects again cropped up, and not until the
+next morning did they get away. At first there were frequent
+stops, but on the whole satisfactory progress was made, and as
+even a small measure of success would, in Scott's opinion, be
+enough to show their ability to revolutionize Polar transport,
+and so help to prevent the cruelty that is a necessary condition
+of animal transport, he was intensely anxious about the result
+of this trial trip. As this subject was one which was of the most
+supreme interest to Scott, it is well to quote the opinion of an
+expert upon these motor sledges. 'It has been said that Captain
+Scott's sledges failed, and without further consideration the
+design has been totally condemned, but this is quite unfair to the
+design; and it must be admitted by everyone who has had anything
+to do with the sledges, and has any sort of knowledge of mechanical
+principles, that it was the engine that failed, not the transmission
+gear at all. The engine used was a four-cylinder air-cooled one,
+and most unexpectedly in the cold climate of the Antarctic it
+over-heated and broke various parts, beyond possibility of repair
+under the severe conditions. The reason of the breakdown therefore
+applies to any and every form of motor sledge, and should a
+satisfactory engine be available for one form of sledge, it is
+equally available for another. It therefore shows a lack of fair
+judgment to condemn the Scott sledge for a breakdown, which would
+have applied equally to every form of motor transport which could
+have been designed.'
+
+Unquestionably the motor sledges did enough to make this unique
+experiment infinitely worth trying, and on Friday, October 27, Scott
+declared that the machines had already vindicated themselves. Even
+the seamen, who had been very doubtful about them, were profoundly
+impressed, and P.O. Evans admitted that, 'if them things can go on
+like that, I reckon you wouldn't want nothing else.'
+
+As the days passed by, it was obvious that the Western Party--which
+consisted of Taylor, Debenham, Gran and Forde--would have to leave
+after the Southern Party. 'It is trying that they should be wasting
+the season in this way. All things considered, I shall be glad to
+get away and put our fortune to the test,' Scott wrote on the 28th.
+And two days later he added: 'Meares and Ponting are just off to Hut
+Point. Atkinson and Keohane will probably leave in an hour or so as
+arranged, and if the weather holds, we shall all get off to-morrow.
+So here end the entries in this diary with the first chapter of our
+History. The future is in the lap of the gods; I can think of
+nothing left undone to deserve success.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+THE SOUTHERN JOURNEY BEGINS
+
+                 Free men freely work.
+  Whoever fears God, fears to sit at ease.
+  --E. B. BROWNING.
+
+'As we are just off on our Southern journey, with a good chance of
+missing the ship on our return,' Scott wrote before leaving Cape
+Evans on November 1, 'I send a word of greeting. We are going
+away with high hopes of success and for the moment everything
+smiles, but where risks must be taken the result must be dependent
+on chance to some extent.
+
+'I am lucky in having with me the right men for the work; we have
+lived most happily together through the long winter, and now all
+are fit, ready, and eager to go forward, and, apart from the result,
+the work itself is extraordinarily fascinating.'
+
+The march to Hut Point was begun in detachments, Scott leading
+Snippets and soon finding himself where he wished to be, at the
+tail of the team. After all Jehu had refuted predictions by being
+allowed to start, although so little confidence was still placed
+in him that on the previous day he had been sent at his own pace
+to Hut Point. Chinaman was also 'an unknown quantity,' but the
+chief trouble on the opening march was caused by the persistently
+active Christopher, who kicked and bucked the whole way.
+
+On this march, which reminded Scott of a regatta or a somewhat
+disorganized fleet with ships of very unequal speed, a good
+knowledge was obtained of the various paces of the ponies, and
+the plan of advance was, after some trouble, arranged. The start
+was to be made from Hut Point in three parties--the very slow
+ponies, the medium paced, and the fliers. The motors with Day,
+E. R. Evans, Lashly and Hooper (who had taken Clissold's place)
+were already on the way, and the dogs, with Meares and Demetri,
+were to follow the main detachments.
+
+Night marching was decided upon, and after supper good-bye was
+said to Hut Point, and Atkinson, Wright and Keohane led off with
+Jehu, Chinaman and Jimmy Pigg. Two hours later Scott, Wilson and
+Cherry-Garrard left, their ponies marching steadily and well
+together on the sea-ice. At Safety Camp they found Atkinson, who
+reported that Chinaman and Jehu were already tired. Soon after
+Scott's party had camped for lunch, Ponting arrived with Demetri
+and a small dog team, and the cinematograph was up in time to
+catch the flying rearguard, which came along in fine form with
+Snatcher, 'a wonderful little beast,' leading. Christopher had
+given his customary exhibition when harnessed, and although the
+Barrier surface had sobered him a little it was not thought
+advisable for him to stop, and so the party fled through in the
+wake of the advance guard, and were christened 'the through
+train.'
+
+'After lunch,' Scott, writing from Camp 1 on November 3, says,
+'we packed up and marched steadily on as before. I don't like
+these midnight lunches, but for man the march that follows is
+pleasant when, as today, the wind falls and the sun steadily
+increases its heat. The two parties in front of us camped five
+miles beyond Safety Camp, and we reached their camp some half
+or three-quarters of an hour later. All the ponies are tethered
+in good order, but most of them are tired--Chinaman and Jehu very
+tired.... A petrol tin is near the camp and a note stating that
+the motors passed at 9 P.M. 28th, going strong--they have from
+four to five days' lead and should surely keep it.'
+
+On the next march they started in what for some time was to be
+the settled order--Atkinson's contingent at 8 P.M., Scott's at
+10, Oates' an hour and a quarter later. Just after starting they
+picked up cheerful notices saying that all was well with both
+the motors, and Day wrote, 'Hope to meet in 80° 30' Lat.' But
+very soon afterwards a depôt of petrol was found; and worse was
+to follow, as some four miles out from Camp 1 they came across
+a tin bearing the sad announcement, 'Big end Day's motor No. 2
+cylinder broken.' Half a mile beyond was the motor, its tracking
+sledges, &c.; and notes from E. Evans and Day to tell the tale
+of the mishap. The only spare big end had been used for Lashly's
+machine, and as it would have taken a long time to strip Day's
+engine so that it could run on three cylinders, they had decided
+to abandon it and push on with the other alone. 'So the dream of
+help from the machines is at an end! The track of the remaining
+motor goes steadily forward, but now, of course, I shall expect
+to see it every hour of the march.'
+
+On the second and third marches the ponies did fairly well on a
+bad surface, but as yet they had only light loads to pull; and
+not until they were tested was Scott prepared to express much
+confidence in them. At Camp 3 he found a troubled note from E.
+Evans saying that their maximum speed was about 7 miles a day.
+'They have taken on nine bags of forage, but there are three black
+dots to the south which we can only imagine are the deserted motor
+with its loaded sledges. The men have gone on as a supporting
+party, as directed. It is a disappointment. I had hoped better
+of the machines once they got away on the Barrier Surface.'
+
+From this camp they started in the usual order, having arranged
+that full loads should be carried if the black dots proved to
+be the motors, and very soon they found their fears confirmed.
+Another note from E. Evans stated a recurrence of the old trouble.
+The big end of No. 1 cylinder had cracked, otherwise the machine
+was in good order. 'Evidently,' Scott wrote in reference to this
+misfortune, 'the engines are not fitted for working in this climate,
+a fact that should be certainly capable of correction. One thing
+is proved: the system of propulsion is altogether satisfactory.
+The motor party has proceeded as a man-hauling party as arranged.'
+
+As they came to Camp 4 a blizzard threatened, and snow walls
+were at once built for the ponies. The last march, however, was
+more than a compensation for bad weather. Jehu and Chinaman with
+loads of over 450 lbs. had stepped out well and had finished as
+fit as they had started, while the better ponies had made nothing
+of their loads, Scott's Snippets having pulled over 700 lbs.,
+sledge included. 'We are all much cheered by this performance.
+It shows a hardening up of ponies which have been well trained;
+even Oates is pleased!'
+
+The blizzard only just gave them time to get everything done
+in the camp before it arrived. The ponies, however, in their
+new rugs and with sheltering walls as high as themselves could
+scarcely feel the wind, and as this protection was a direct
+result of experience gained in the previous year, Scott was glad
+to feel that some good had been obtained from that disastrous
+journey. But when the snow began to fall the ponies as usual
+suffered, because it was impossible to devise any means of keeping
+them comfortable in thick and driving snow. 'We men are snug and
+comfortable enough, but it is very evil to lie here and know that
+the weather is steadily sapping the strength of the beasts on
+which so much depends. It requires much philosophy to be cheerful
+on such occasions.' In the midst of the drift during the forenoon
+of the 7th Meares and Demetri with the dogs arrived, and camped
+about a quarter of a mile away. In catching the main party up so
+soon Scott considered that Meares had played too much for safety,
+but at the same time it was encouraging to know that the dogs
+would pull the loads assigned to them, and that they could face
+such terrific winds.
+
+The threatening weather continued until late on Tuesday night, and
+the question of starting was left open for a long time, several
+of the party thinking it unwise to march. At last, however, the
+decision was made to go, and the advance guard got away soon after
+midnight. Then, to Scott's surprise and delight, he discovered that
+his fears about the ponies were needless. Both Jehu and Chinaman
+took skittish little runs when their rugs were removed, and Chinaman
+even betrayed a not altogether irresistible desire to buck. In
+fact the only pony that gave any trouble was Christopher, and
+this not from any fatigue but from excessive spirit. Most of
+the ponies halted now and again to get a mouthful of snow, but
+Christopher had still to be sent through with a non-stop run, for
+his tricks and devices were as innumerable as ever. Oates had to
+cling like grim death to his bridle until the first freshness had
+worn off, and this was a long rather than a light task, as even
+after ten miles he was prepared to misbehave himself if he got
+the smallest chance.
+
+A few hundred yards from Camp 5 Bowers picked up a bale of forage
+and loaded it on his sledge, bringing the weight to nearly 800 lbs.
+Victor, however, went on as though nothing had happened, and
+although the surface was for the time wonderfully good, and it
+still remained a question how the ponies would get on under harder
+conditions, Scott admitted that so far the outlook was very
+encouraging. The cairns built in the previous year showed up very
+distinctly and were being picked up with the greatest ease, and
+this also was an additional cause for satisfaction because with
+pony walls, camp sites and cairns, the track on the homeward march
+seemed as if it must be easy to follow. Writing at Camp 5, Scott
+says, 'Everyone is as fit as can be. It was wonderfully warm as we
+camped this morning at 11 o'clock; the wind has dropped completely
+and the sun shines gloriously. Men and ponies revel in such weather.
+One devoutly hopes for a good spell of it as we recede from the
+windy Northern region. The dogs came up soon after we had camped,
+traveling easily.'
+
+On the next march they remained faithful to their program of
+advancing a little over ten geographical miles nightly. But during
+the last two miles of this stage all of the ponies were together.
+'It looked like a meet of the hounds, and Jehu ran away!!' was
+Cherry-Garrard's account of this scene in his diary. But in Scott's
+opinion it was clearly not advantageous to march in one detachment,
+because the slow advance-guard ponies were forced out of their pace
+by joining with the others, while the fast rearguard had their
+speed reduced. This, however, was a great day for Jehu, whose
+attempt to bolt, though scarcely amounting to more than a sprawling
+canter, was freely acknowledged to be a creditable performance for
+a pony who at the start had been thought incapable of doing a
+single march.
+
+The weather now began to change rapidly for the worse, and in
+consequence the pleasure of marching as rapidly vanished. In
+arriving at Camp 7 they had to struggle at first against a strong
+head wind, and afterwards in a snowstorm. Wright, who was leading,
+found it so impossible to see where he was going that he decided
+to camp some two miles short of the usual ten, but the ponies
+continued to do well and this was a compensation for the curtailed
+distance.
+
+A worse surface was in store for them when they started from
+Camp 7, in fact Scott and Wilson described it as one of the worst
+they had ever seen. The snow that had fallen in the day remained
+soft, and added to this they had entered upon an area of soft
+crust between a few scattered hard sastrugi. In pits between
+these the snow lay in sandy heaps, making altogether the most
+difficult conditions for the ponies. Nevertheless the stronger
+ponies continued to pull excellently, and even the poor old
+crocks succeeded in covering 9-1/2 miles. 'Such a surface makes
+one anxious in spite of the rapidity with which changes take
+place. I expected these marches to be a little difficult, but
+not near so bad as to-day's.... In spite of the surface, the
+dogs ran up from the camp before last, over 20 miles, in the
+night. They are working splendidly.'
+
+The surface was still bad and the weather horrid on the following
+day, but 5 miles out the advance party came straight and true upon
+the last year's Bluff depôt. Here Scott found a note, from which
+he learned the cheering news that E. Evans and his party must be
+the best part of five days ahead. On the other hand, Atkinson had
+a very gloomy report to make of Chinaman, who could, he thought,
+only last a few more miles. Oates, however, much more optimistic
+than usual, considered that Chinaman would last for several days;
+and during another horrid march to Camp 10 all the ponies did well,
+Jehu especially distinguishing himself.
+
+'We shall be,' Scott wrote from this camp on Monday, November 13,
+'in a better position to know how we stand when we get to One
+Ton Camp, now only 17 or 18 miles, but I am anxious about these
+beasts--very anxious, they are not the ponies they ought to have
+been, and if they pull through well, all the thanks will be due
+to Oates. I trust the weather and surface conditions will improve;
+both are rank bad at present.' The next stage took them within
+7 or 8 miles of One Ton Camp, and with a slightly improved surface
+and some sun the spirits of the party revived. But, although
+the ponies were working splendidly, it was painful work for them
+to struggle on through the snow, and Christopher's antics when
+harnessed were already a thing of the past--a fact which would
+have been totally unregretted had it not been evidence that his
+strength was also beginning to diminish.
+
+One Ton Camp was found without any difficulty, and having pushed
+on to Camp 12 it was decided to give the animals a day's rest
+there, and afterwards to go forward at the rate of 13 geographical
+miles (15 statute miles) a day. 'Oates thinks the ponies will
+get through, but that they have lost condition quicker than he
+expected. Considering his usually pessimistic attitude this must
+be thought a hopeful view. Personally I am much more hopeful. I
+think that a good many of the beasts are actually in better form
+than when they started, and that there is no need to be alarmed
+about the remainder, always excepting the weak ones which we
+have always regarded with doubt. Well, we must wait and see how
+things go.'
+
+Another note from E. Evans was found at One Ton Camp, stating
+that his party had taken on four boxes of biscuits, and would wait
+for the main detachment at Lat. 80° 30'. The minimum thermometer
+left there in the previous year showed -73°, which was rather
+less than Scott had expected.
+
+After the day's rest the loads were re-organized, the stronger
+ponies taking on about 580 lbs., while the others had rather over
+400 lbs. as their burden; and refreshed by their holiday all of
+them marched into the next camp without any signs of exhaustion.
+By this time frost-bites were frequent, both Oates and P.O. Evans
+being victims, while Meares, when told that his nose was 'gone,'
+remarked that he was tired of it and that it would thaw out by
+and by!
+
+Hopes and fears concerning the ponies naturally alternated on
+such a journey, and the latter predominated when Scott wrote on
+November 18 from Camp 14. 'The ponies are not pulling well. The
+surface is, if anything, a little worse than yesterday, but I
+should think about the sort of thing we shall have to expect
+henceforward.... It's touch and go whether we scrape up to the
+Glacier; meanwhile we get along somehow.'
+
+During the next two marches, however, the ponies, in spite of
+rather bad surfaces, did wonderfully well, and both Jehu and
+Chinaman began to be regarded with real admiration, Jehu being
+re-christened 'The Barrier Wonder' and Chinaman 'The Thunderbolt.'
+Again Scott began to take a hopeful view of getting through,
+unless the surfaces became infinitely worse.
+
+While on the way to Camp 17 Scott's detachment found E. Evans and
+his party in Lat. 80° 32', and heard that they had been waiting
+for six days, which they had spent in building a tremendous cairn.
+All of them looked very fit, but they were also very hungry--an
+informing fact, as it proved conclusively that a ration which was
+ample for the needs of men leading ponies, was nothing like enough
+for those who were doing hard pulling work. Thus the provision
+that Scott had made for summit work received a full justification,
+though even with the rations that were to be taken he had no doubt
+that hunger would attack the party.
+
+After some discussion it was decided to take Evans' motor party
+on in advance for three days, and then that Day and Hooper should
+return.
+
+Good, steady progress was made on the next two marches, and at
+Camp 19 they were within 150 geographical miles of the Glacier.
+'But it is still rather touch and go. If one or more ponies were
+to go rapidly down hill we might be in queer street.'
+
+Then at Camp 20 came the end of the gallant Jehu. 'We did the
+usual march very easily over a fairly good surface, the ponies
+now quite steady and regular. Since the junction with the Motor
+Party the procedure has been for the man-hauling people to go
+forward just ahead of the crocks, the other party following two
+or three hours later. To-day we closed less than usual, so the
+crocks must have been going very well. However, the fiat had
+already gone forth, and this morning (November 24) after the
+march poor old Jehu was led back on the track and shot. After our
+doubts as to his reaching Hut Point, it is wonderful to think
+that he has actually got eight marches beyond our last year limit,
+and could have gone more. However, towards the end he was pulling
+very little, and on the whole it is merciful to have ended his
+life. Chinaman seems to improve and will certainly last a good
+many days yet. I feel we ought to get through now. Day and Hooper
+leave us to-night.'
+
+Referring to Jehu in his diary Cherry-Garrard re-marked how much
+Scott felt 'this kind of thing,' and how cut up Atkinson was
+at the loss of his pony.
+
+After Day and Hooper had turned back the party was re-arranged
+and started together. The man-haulers, Atkinson, E. Evans and
+Lashly, went ahead with their gear on the 10-foot sledge, then
+came Wright with Chinaman and Keohane with James Pigg, the rest
+following close behind them. But although the two crocks had
+not been given their usual start, they stuck to their work so
+gallantly that at the finish they were less than a quarter of
+a mile behind.
+
+At Camp 22, in Lat. 81° 35' the Middle Barrier Depôt was made, and
+as they did not leave until 3 A.M. they were gradually getting
+back to day-marching. The next stage, however, of their journey
+was struggled through under the greatest difficulties. At the
+start the surface was bad, and the man-haulers in front made such
+heavy weather of it that they were repeatedly overtaken. This
+threw the ponies out and prolonged the march so much that six
+hours were spent in reaching the lunch camp. But bad as the first
+part of the march had been, the latter part was even worse. The
+advance party started on ski, but had the greatest difficulty in
+keeping a course; and presently snow began to fall heavily with
+a rise of temperature, and the ski became hopelessly clogged. At
+this time the surface was terribly hard for pulling, and the
+man-haulers also found it impossible to steer. The march of 13
+miles was eventually completed, but under the most harassing
+circumstances and with very tired animals.
+
+'Our forage supply necessitates that we should plug on the 13
+(geographical) miles daily under all conditions, so that we can
+only hope for better things. It is several days since we had a
+glimpse of land, which makes conditions especially gloomy. A
+tired animal makes a tired man, I find, and none of us are very
+bright now after the day's march.'
+
+No improvement in the weather was in store for them on the
+following day (November 28), for snowstorms swept over them,
+the driving snow not only preventing them from seeing anything,
+but also hitting them stingingly in their faces. Chinaman was
+shot on this night, but in struggling on until he was within go
+miles of the Glacier he had done more than was ever expected of
+him; and with only four bags of forage left the end of all the
+ponies was very near at hand.
+
+During the march to Camp 25, Lat. 82° 21', 'the most unexpected
+and trying summer blizzard yet experienced in this region' ceased,
+and prospects improved in every respect. While they were marching
+the land showed up hazily, and at times looked remarkably close
+to them. 'Land shows up almost ahead now,' Scott wrote on the
+29th, 'and our pony goal is less than 70 miles away. The ponies
+are tired, but I believe all have five days' work left in them,
+and some a great deal more.... It follows that the dogs can be
+employed, rested and fed well on the homeward track. We could
+really get through now with their help and without much delay,
+yet every consideration makes it desirable to save the men from
+heavy hauling as long as possible. So I devoutly hope the 70
+miles will come in the present order of things.'
+
+Snippets and Nobby by this time walked by themselves, but both
+of them kept a continually cunning eye upon their driver, and
+if he stopped they at once followed his example. It was, Scott
+admitted, a relief no longer to have to lead his animal, for fond
+of Snippets as he was, the vagaries of the animal were annoying
+when on the march. Thursday, November 30, brought most pleasant
+weather with it, but the surface was so bad that all of the ponies,
+with the exception of Nobby, began to show obvious signs of failure.
+A recurrence of 'sinking crusts' (areas which gave way with a
+report) was encountered, and the ponies very often sank nearly
+to their knees.
+
+At Camp 27 Nobby was the only pony who did not show signs of
+extreme exhaustion, but forage was beginning to get so scarce
+that even Nobby had nearly reached the end of his life. On this
+night (December 1) Christopher was shot, and by no possibility
+could he be much regretted, for he had given nothing but trouble at
+the outset, and as soon as his spirits began to fail his strength
+had also disappeared. 'He has been a great disappointment,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'even James Pigg has survived him.'
+
+A depôt, called the Southern Barrier Depôt, was left at Camp 27,
+so that no extra weight was added to the loads of the other ponies.
+'Three more marches ought to carry us through. With the seven
+crocks and the dog teams we must get through, I think. The men
+alone ought not to have heavy loads on the surface, which is
+extremely trying.'
+
+On the morning of the 1st Nobby had been tried in snow-shoes,
+and for about four miles had traveled splendidly upon them, but
+then the shoes racked and had to be taken off; nevertheless,
+in Scott's opinion, there was no doubt that snow-shoes were the
+thing for ponies, and that if his ponies had been able to use
+them from the beginning their condition would have been very
+different from what it was.
+
+From Camp 28, Lat. 83°, Scott wrote, 'Started under very bad
+weather conditions. The stratus spreading over from the S.E.
+last night meant mischief, and all day we marched in falling
+snow with a horrible light.... The ponies were sinking deep in
+a wretched surface. I suggested to Oates that he should have a
+roving commission to watch the animals, but he much preferred
+to lead one, so I handed over Snippets very willingly and went
+on ski myself.' This he found such easy work, that he had time
+to take several photographs of the ponies as they plunged through
+the snow. But in the afternoon they found a better surface, and
+Scott, who was leading, had to travel at a very steady pace to
+keep the lead.
+
+When this march had finished they had reached the 83rd parallel,
+and were 'practically safe to get through.' But with forage
+becoming scarcer and scarcer poor Bictor--to the great sorrow
+of Bowers, who was very fond of him--had to be shot. Six ponies
+remained, and as the dogs were doing splendidly, the chances of
+the party reaching the Glacier were excellent if only they could
+see their way to it. Wild in his diary of Shackleton's journey
+remarked on December 15 that it was the first day for a month on
+which he could not record splendid weather. With Scott's party,
+however, a fine day had been the exception rather than the rule,
+and the journey had been one almost perpetual fight against bad
+weather and bad surfaces.
+
+The tent parties at this date were made up of (1) Scott, Wilson,
+Oates and Keohane; (2) Bowers, P.O. Evans, Cherry-Garrard and
+Crean; (3) man-haulers, E. R. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.
+'We have all taken to horse meat and are so well fed that hunger
+isn't thought of.'
+
+At 2.30 A.M. on Sunday, December 3, Scott, intending to get away
+at 5, roused all hands, but their bad luck in the way of weather
+once more delayed the start. At first there seemed to be just
+a chance that they might be able to march, but while they were
+having breakfast a full gale blew up from the south; 'the strongest
+wind I have known here in summer.' In a very short time the pony
+wall was blown down, the sledges were buried, and huge drifts
+had collected. In heavy drift everyone turned out to make up the
+pony walls, but the flanking wall was blown down three times
+before the job was completed. About mid-day the weather improved
+and soon afterwards the clouds broke and the land appeared; and
+when they got away at 2 P.M., the sun was shining brightly. But
+this pleasant state of affairs was only destined to last for one
+short hour; after that snow again began to fall, and marching
+conditions became supremely horrible. The wind increased from
+the S.E., changed to S. W., where for a time it remained, and
+then suddenly shifted to W.N.W., and afterwards to N.N.W., from
+which direction it continued to blow with falling and drifting
+snow. But in spite of these rapid and absolutely bewildering
+changes of conditions they managed to get 11-1/2 miles south
+and to Camp 29 at 7 P.M. The man-haulers, however, camped after
+six miles, for they found it impossible to steer a course. 'We
+(Scott and Bowers) steered with compass, the drifting snow across
+our ski, and occasional glimpses of southeasterly sastrugi under
+them, till the sun showed dimly for the last hour or so. The
+whole weather conditions seem thoroughly disturbed, and if they
+continue so when we are on the Glacier, we shall be very awkwardly
+placed. It is really time the luck turned in our favor--we have
+had all too little of it. Every mile seems to have been hardly
+won under such conditions. The ponies did splendidly and the
+forage is lasting a little better than expected... we should
+have no difficulty whatever as regards transport if only the
+weather was kind.' On the following day the weather was still in
+a bad mood, for no sooner had they got on their gear for the start
+than a thick blizzard from the S.S.E. arrived. Quickly everyone
+started to build fresh walls for the ponies, an uninviting task
+enough in a regular white flowing blizzard, but one which added
+greatly to the comfort of the animals, who looked sleepy and
+bored, but not at all cold. Just as the walls were finished the
+man-haulers came into camp, having been assisted in their course
+by the tracks that the other parties had made.
+
+Fortunately the wind moderated in the forenoon and by 2 P.M.
+they were off and in six hours had placed 13 more miles to their
+credit. During this march the land was quite clearly in view,
+and several uncharted glaciers of large dimensions were seen. The
+mountains were rounded in outline, very massive, with excrescent
+peaks, one or two of the peaks on the foothills standing bare
+and almost perpendicular. Ahead of them was the ice-rounded,
+boulder-strewn Mount Hope and the gateway to the Glacier. 'We
+should reach it easily enough on to-morrow's march if we can
+compass 12 miles.... We have only lost 5 or 6 miles on these two
+wretched days, but the disturbed condition of the weather makes
+me anxious with regard to the Glacier, where more than anywhere
+we shall need fine days. One has a horrid feeling that this is
+a real bad season. However, sufficient for the day is the evil
+thereof. We are practically through with the first stage of our
+journey. Looking from the last Camp (29) towards the S.S.E.,
+where the farthest land can be seen, it seemed more than probable
+that a very high latitude could be reached on the Barrier, and
+if Amundsen journeying that way has a stroke of luck, he may
+well find his summit journey reduced to 100 miles or so. In any
+case it is a fascinating direction for next year's work, if only
+fresh transport arrives.'
+
+On this day, December 4, the ponies marched splendidly, crossing
+the deep snow in the undulations without any difficulty, and had
+food been plentiful enough there was no doubt that they could have
+gone on for many more miles. As it was 'gallant little Michael'
+had to be sacrificed when the march was over. 'He walked away,'
+Cherry-Garrard wrote, 'and rolled on the way down, not having
+done so when we got in. He died quite instantaneously. He was
+just like a naughty child all the way and pulled all out; he
+has been a good friend and has a good record, 83° 22' S. He was
+a bit done to-day, the blizzard had knocked him.'
+
+By night the weather looked very uninviting, and they woke to
+find a raging, howling blizzard. Previously the winds that had
+so constantly bothered them had lacked that very fine powdery
+snow which is usually an especial feature of a blizzard, but on
+this occasion they got enough and to spare of it. Anyone who
+went into the open for a minute or two was covered from head
+to foot, and as the temperature was high the snow stuck where
+it fell. The heads, tails and legs of the ponies were covered
+with ice, and they had to stand deep in snow. The sledges were
+almost covered, and there were huge drifts about the tent. It
+was a scene on which no one wanted to look longer than he could
+help, and after they had rebuilt the pony walls they retreated
+sadly and soppingly into their bags. Even the small satisfaction
+of being able to see from one tent to another was denied them,
+and Scott, while asking what on earth such weather could mean
+at this time of year, stated emphatically that no party could
+possibly travel against such a wind.
+
+'Is there,' he asked, 'some widespread atmospheric disturbance
+which will be felt everywhere in this region as a bad season,
+or are we merely the victims of exceptional local conditions?
+If the latter, there is food for thought in picturing our small
+party struggling against adversity in one place whilst others go
+smilingly forward in sunshine. How great may be the element of
+luck! No foresight--no procedure--could have prepared us for
+this state of affairs. Had we been ten times as experienced or
+certain of our aim we should not have expected such rebuffs.'
+
+[Illustration: Looking up the gateway from Pony Depôt. (Mt. Hope.)]
+
+[Illustration: Looking south from Lower Glacier Depôt. (Mt. Hope.)]
+
+The snowfall on this day (December 5) was quite the greatest
+that Scott remembered, the drifts about the tents being colossal.
+And to add to their misery and misfortune the temperature remained
+so high that the snow melted if it fell on anything except snow,
+with the result that tents, wind clothes, night boots, &c., were
+all wet through; while water, dripping from the tent poles and
+door, lay on the floor, soaked the sleeping-bags, and made the
+situation inconceivably miserable. In the midst of this slough,
+however, Keohane had the spirit to make up a rhyme, which is worth
+quoting mainly, if not solely, because of the conditions under
+which it was produced:
+
+  The snow is all melting and everything's afloat,
+  If this goes on much longer we shall have to turn the tent
+    upside down and use it as a boat.
+
+The next day Scott described as 'miserable, utterly miserable.
+We have camped in the "Slough of Despond."' When within twelve
+miles of the Glacier it was indeed the most cruel fortune to be
+held up by such a raging tempest. The temperature at noon had
+risen to 33°, and everything was more soakingly wet than ever,
+if that was possible. The ponies, too, looked utterly desolate,
+and the snow climbed higher and higher about the walls, tents and
+sledges. At night signs of a break came, but hopes of marching again
+were dashed on the following morning, when the storm continued and
+the situation became most serious; after this day only one small
+feed remained for the ponies, so that they had either to march
+or to sacrifice all the animals. That, however, was not the most
+serious part, for with the help of the dogs they could without
+doubt have got on. But what troubled Scott most intensely was
+that they had on this morning (December 7) started on their summit
+rations, or, in other words, the food calculated to take them on
+from the Glacier depôt had been begun.
+
+In the meantime the storm showed no signs of abatement, and its
+character was as unpleasant as ever. 'I can find no sign of an
+end, and all of us agree that it is utterly impossible to move.
+Resignation to this misfortune is the only attitude, but not an
+easy one to adopt. It seems undeserved where plans were well laid,
+and so nearly crowned with a first success.... The margin for
+bad weather was ample according to all experience, and this stormy
+December--our finest month--is a thing that the most cautious
+organizer might not have been prepared to encounter.... There
+cannot be good cheer in the camp in such weather, but it is ready
+to break out again. In the brief spell of hope last night one
+heard laughter.'
+
+Hour after hour passed with little or no improvement, and as
+every hour of inactivity was a real menace to the success of
+their plans, no one can wonder that they chafed over this most
+exasperating delay. Under ordinary circumstances it would have
+been melancholy enough to watch the mottled, wet, green walls
+of their tents and to hear the everlasting patter of the falling
+snow and the ceaseless rattle of the fluttering canvas, but when
+the prospect of failure of their cherished plan was added to
+the acute discomforts of the situation, it is scarcely possible
+to imagine how totally miserable they must have been both in
+body and mind. Nevertheless in the midst of these distressing
+conditions Scott managed to write, 'But yet, after all, one can
+go on striving, endeavoring to find a stimulation in the
+difficulties that arise.'
+
+Friday morning, however, did not bring any cause for hope. The
+snow was still falling heavily, and they found themselves lying
+in pools of water that squelched whenever they moved. Under such
+circumstances it was a relief to get outside, shift the tents
+and dig out the sledges. All of the tents had been reduced to
+the smallest space by the gradual pressure of snow, the old sites
+being deep pits with hollowed, icy, wet centers. The re-setting
+of them at least made things more comfortable, and as the wind
+dropped about mid-day and a few hours later the sky showed signs
+of breaking, hope once more revived; but soon afterwards snow was
+falling again. and the position was rapidly becoming absolutely
+desperate.
+
+To test the surface the man-haulers tried to pull a load during
+the afternoon, and although it proved a tough job they managed
+to do it by pulling in ski. On foot the men sank to their knees,
+and an attempt to see what Nobby could do under such circumstances
+was anything but encouraging.
+
+Writing in the evening Scott said, 'Wilson thinks the ponies
+finished, but Oates thinks they will get another march in spite
+of the surface, if it comes to-morrow. If it should not, we must
+kill the ponies to-morrow and get on as best we can with the men
+on ski and the dogs. But one wonders what the dogs can do on
+such a surface. I much fear they also will prove inadequate. Oh!
+for fine weather, if only to the Glacier.'
+
+By 11 P.M. the wind had gone to the north, and the sky at last
+began really to break. The temperature also helped matters by
+falling to +26°, and in consequence the water nuisance began to
+abate; and at the prospect of action on the following morning
+cheerful sounds were once more heard in the camp. 'The poor ponies
+look wistfully for the food of which so very little remains,
+yet they are not hungry, as recent savings have resulted from
+food left in their nose-bags. They look wonderfully fit, all
+things considered. Everything looks more hopeful to-night, but
+nothing can recall four lost days.' During the night Scott turned
+out two or three times to find the weather slowly improving, and
+at 8 o'clock on December 9 they started upon a most terrible
+march to Camp 31.
+
+The tremendous snowfall had made the surface intolerably soft, and
+the half-fed animals sank deeper and deeper. None of them could be
+led for more than a few minutes, but if they were allowed to follow
+the poor beasts did fairly well. Soon, however, it began to seem
+as if no real headway could be made, and so the man-haulers were
+pressed into the service to try and improve matters.
+
+Bowers and Cherry-Garrard went ahead with one 10-foot sledge
+and made a track--thus most painfully a mile or so was gained.
+Then when it seemed as if the limit had been reached P.O. Evans
+saved the situation by putting the last pair of snow-shoes upon
+Snatcher, who at once began to go on without much pressure, and
+was followed by the other ponies.
+
+No halt was made for lunch, but after three or four laborious
+miles they found themselves engulfed in pressures which added
+to the difficulties of their march. Still, however, they struggled
+on, and by 8 P.M. they were within a mile of the slope ascending
+to the gap, which Shackleton called the Gateway. This gateway was
+a neck or saddle of drifted snow lying in a gap of the mountain
+rampart which flanked the last curve of the Glacier, and Scott
+had hoped to be through it at a much earlier date, as indeed he
+would have been had not the prolonged storm delayed him.
+
+By this time the ponies, one and all, were quite exhausted. 'They
+came on painfully slowly a few hundred yards at a time.... I was
+hauling ahead, a ridiculously light load, and yet finding the
+pulling heavy enough. We camped, and the ponies have been shot.
+Poor beasts! they have done wonderfully well considering the
+terrible circumstances under which they worked.'
+
+On December 8 Wilson wrote in his journal, 'I have kept Nobby all
+my biscuits to-night as he has to try to do a march to-morrow,
+and then happily he will be shot and all of them, as their food
+is quite done.' And on the following day he added: 'Nobby had
+all my biscuits last night and this morning, and by the time we
+camped I was just ravenously hungry.... Thank God the horses
+are now all done with and we begin the heavy work ourselves.'
+
+This Camp 31 received the name of Shambles Camp, and although
+the ponies had not, owing to the storm, reached the distance
+Scott had expected, yet he, and all who had taken part in that
+distressing march, were relieved to know that the sufferings
+of their plucky animals had at last come to an end.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER
+
+  In thrilling region of thick ribbed ice
+  To be imprison'd in the viewless winds
+  And blown with restless violence round about.
+  --SHAKESPEARE.
+
+On the death of the ponies at Camp 31 the party was reorganized,
+and for some days advanced in the following order:
+
+  Sledge 1. Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans.
+  Sledge 2. E. Evans, Atkinson, Wright and Lashly.
+  Sledge 3. Bowers, Cherry-Garrard, Crean and Keohane; with
+            Meares and Demetri continuing to drive the dogs.
+
+When leaving this Camp Scott was very doubtful whether the loads
+could be pulled over such an appalling surface, and that success
+attended their efforts was due mainly to the ski. The start was
+delayed by the readjustments that had to be made, but when they
+got away at noon, and with a 'one, two, three together' Scott's
+party began to pull their sledge, they were most agreeably surprised
+to find it running fairly easily behind them. The first mile was
+gained in about half an hour, but then they began to rise, and
+soon afterwards with the slope becoming steeper and the surface
+getting worse they had to take off their ski. After this the
+pulling was extraordinarily exhausting, for they sank above their
+finnesko, and in some places nearly up to their knees.
+
+The runners of the sledges became coated with a thin film of
+ice from which it was impossible to free them, and the sledges
+themselves sank in soft spots to the cross-bars. At 5 P.M. they
+reached the top of the slope, and after tea started on the down
+grade. On this they had to pull almost as vigorously as on the
+upward slope, but they could just manage to get along on ski.
+
+Evans and his party, however, were unable to keep up the pace
+set by the leaders, and when they camped at 9.15 Scott heard
+some news that thoroughly alarmed him. 'It appears,' he wrote,
+'that Atkinson says that Wright is getting played out, and Lashly
+is not so fit as he was owing to the heavy pulling since the
+blizzard. I have not felt satisfied about this party. The finish
+of the march to-day showed clearly that something was wrong....
+True, the surface was awful and growing worse every moment. It
+is a very serious business if the men are going to crack up. As
+for myself, I never felt fitter and my party can easily hold its
+own. P.O. Evans, of course, is a tower of strength, but Oates
+and Wilson are doing splendidly also.'
+
+Round the spot where Camp 32 had been pitched the snow was
+appallingly deep and soft. 'Every step here one sinks to the
+knees, and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to support
+the sledges.' A wind, however, had sprung up, and though under
+ordinary circumstances it would have been far from welcome, on
+this occasion it was a blessing because it hardened the snow;
+and a good surface was all the more necessary because, after half
+another march, Meares and Demetri were to return with the dogs,
+and in consequence 200 lbs. would have to be added to each
+sledge-load.
+
+Before starting from Camp 32 they built a depôt (the Lower Glacier
+depôt), made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal of gear
+there. Then at the very beginning of their march they got into
+big pressure, and must have passed over several crevasses. After
+four hours, however, they were clear of the pressure, and then
+they said good-bye to Meares and Demetri, who took back a note
+from Scott to say that 'Things are not so rosy as they might be,
+but we keep our spirits up and say the luck must turn. This is
+only to tell you that I find I can keep up with the rest as well
+as of old.'
+
+The start after lunch was anxious work, for the question whether
+they could pull their loads had to be answered. Scott's party
+went away first, and, to their joy, found that they could make
+fairly good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft
+patch which brought them up, and then they got sideways to the
+sledge and hauled it out. 'We learned,' Scott wrote on December
+11, at Camp 33, 'to treat such occasions with patience.... The
+great thing is to keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more
+there were dozens of critical moments when it all but stopped,
+and not a few when it brought up altogether. The latter were very
+trying and tiring. But suddenly the surface grew more uniform and
+we more accustomed to the game, for after a long stop to let the
+other parties come up, I started at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling
+easily without a halt at the rate of about 2 miles an hour. I
+was very jubilant; all difficulties seemed to be vanishing; but
+unfortunately our history was not repeated with the other parties.
+Bowers came up half an hour after us. They also had done well at
+the last, and I'm pretty sure they will get on all right. Keohane
+is the only weak spot, and he only, I think, because temporarily
+blind. But Evans' party didn't get up till 10. They started quite
+well, but got into difficulties, did just the wrong thing by
+straining again and again, and so, tiring themselves, went from
+bad to worse. Their ski shoes, too, are out of trim.'
+
+During the morning of the 12th they steered for the Commonwealth
+Range until they reached about the middle of the glacier and
+then the course was altered for the 'Cloudmaker,' and afterwards
+still further to the west. In consequence they got a much better
+view of the southern side of the main glacier than Shackleton's
+party had obtained, and a number of peaks not noticed previously
+were observed. On the first stage of this march Scott's party
+was bogged time after time, and do what they could their sledge
+dragged like a huge lump of lead. Evans' team had been sent off
+in advance and kept well ahead until lunch-time. Then, when Scott
+admits being 'pretty well cooked,' the secret of their trouble
+was disclosed in a thin film with some hard knots of ice on the
+runners of the sledge; these impediments having been removed they
+went ahead without a hitch, and in a mile or two resumed their
+leading position. As they advanced it became more and more evident
+that, with the whole of the lower valley filled with snow from
+the storm, they would have been bogged had they been without ski.
+'On foot one sinks to the knees, and if pulling on a sledge to
+half-way between knee and thigh.'
+
+Scott's hope was that they would get better conditions as they
+rose, but on the next march the surface became worse instead
+of better, the sledges simply plunging into the soft places
+and stopping dead. So slow in fact was the progress they made,
+that on his sledge Scott decided at lunch to try the 10-foot
+runners under the cross-bars, for the sledge was sinking so deeply
+that the cross-pieces were on the surface and acting as brakes.
+Three hours were spent in securing the runners, and then Scott's
+party started and promptly saw what difficulties the other teams
+were having.
+
+In spite of the most desperate efforts to get along, Bowers and
+his men were so constantly bogged that Scott soon passed them.
+But the toil was awful, because the snow with the sun shining
+and a high temperature had become very wet and sticky, and again
+and again the sledge got one runner on harder snow than the other,
+canted on its side, and refused to move. At the top of the rise
+Evans' party was reduced to relay work, and shortly afterwards
+Bowers was compelled to adopt the same plan. 'We,' Scott says,
+'got our whole load through till 7 P.M., camping time, but only
+with repeated halts and labor which was altogether too strenuous.
+The other parties certainly cannot get a full load along on the
+surface, and I much doubt if we could continue to do so, but we
+must try again to-morrow. I suppose we have advanced a bare four
+miles to-day and the aspect of things is very little changed. Our
+height is now about 1,500 feet.'
+
+On the following morning Evans' party got off first from Camp 35,
+and after stiff hauling for an hour or so found the work much
+easier than on the previous day. Bowers' contingent followed
+without getting along so well, and so Scott, whose party were
+having no difficulty with their load, exchanged sledges with
+them, and a satisfactory morning's march was followed by still
+better work in the afternoon, eleven or twelve miles being gained.
+'I think the soft snow trouble is at an end, and I could wish
+nothing better than a continuance of the present surface. Towards
+the end of the march we were pulling our load with the greatest
+ease. It is splendid to be getting along and to find some adequate
+return for the work we are putting into the business.'
+
+At Camp 37, on Friday, December 15, they had reached a height of
+about 2,500 feet, after a march on which the surface steadily
+improved and the snow covering over the blue ice became thinner
+and thinner. During the afternoon they found that at last they
+could start their sledges by giving one good heave, and so, for
+the first time, they were at liberty to stop when they liked
+without the fear of horrible jerks before they could again set
+the sledge going. Patches of ice and hard névé were beginning to
+show through in places, and had not the day's work been interrupted
+by a snowstorm at 5 P.M. their march would have been a really
+good one, but, as it was, eleven more miles had to be put to
+their credit. The weather looked, however, very threatening as
+they turned in for the night, and Scott expressed a fervent hope
+that they were not going to be afflicted by snowstorms as they
+approached the worst part of the glacier.
+
+As was to be expected after the storm they found the surface
+difficult when the march was resumed, but by sticking to their
+work for over ten hours--'the limit of time to be squeezed into
+one day'--they covered eleven miles, and altered greatly the aspect
+of the glacier. Beginning the march as usual on ski, they had
+to take them off in the afternoon because they struck such a
+peculiarly difficult surface that the sledges were constantly
+being brought up. Then on foot they made better progress, though
+no advance could be made without the most strenuous labor. The
+brittle crust would hold for a pace or two, and then let them
+down with a bump, while now and again a leg went down a crack
+in the hard ice underneath. So far, since arriving among the
+disturbances, which increased rapidly towards the end of the
+march, they had not encountered any very alarming crevasses,
+though a large quantity of small ones could be seen.
+
+At the end of the march to Camp 39, Scott was able to write, 'For
+once we can say "Sufficient for the day is the good thereof."
+Our luck may be on the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of
+the hard work everyone is very fit and very cheerful, feeling
+well fed and eager for more toil. Eyes are much better except
+poor Wilson's; he has caught a very bad attack. Remembering his
+trouble on our last Southern journey, I fear he is in for a very
+bad time.... I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will
+be mostly due to the chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now
+one feels the cold strike directly one stops. We get fearfully
+thirsty and chip up ice on the march, as well as drinking a great
+deal of water on halting. Our fuel only just does it, but that
+is all we want, and we have a bit in hand for the summit.... We
+have worn our crampons all day (December 17) and are delighted
+with them. P.O. Evans, the inventor of both crampons and ski
+shoes, is greatly pleased, and certainly we owe him much.'
+
+On the 19th, although snow fell on and off during the whole day
+and crevasses were frequent, a splendid march of 14 miles was
+accomplished. The sledges ran fairly well if only the haulers
+could keep their feet, but on the rippled ice which they were
+crossing it was impossible to get anything like a firm foothold.
+Still, however, they stuck most splendidly to their task, and
+on the following day even a better march was made to Camp 41.
+
+Starting on a good surface they soon came to a number of criss-cross
+cracks, into two of which Scott fell and badly bruised his knee
+and thigh. Then they reached an admirably smooth ice surface
+over which they traveled at an excellent pace. A long hour was
+spent over the halt for lunch, during which angles, photographs
+and sketches were taken, and continuing to make progress in the
+second part of the day's march they finished up with a gain of
+17 miles. 'It has not been a strain except perhaps for me with
+my wounds received early in the day. The wind has kept us cool on
+the march, which has in consequence been very much pleasanter....
+Days like this put heart in one.'
+
+On Wednesday, December 20, however, the good marches of the
+previous two days were put entirely into the shade by one of
+nearly 23 miles, during which they rose 800 feet. Pulling the
+sledges in crampons was not at all difficult on the hard snow
+and on hard ice with patches of snow. At night they camped in
+Lat. 84° 59' 6", and then Scott had to perform a task that he
+most cordially disliked. 'I have just told off the people to
+return to-morrow night: Atkinson, Wright, Cherry-Garrard and
+Keohane. All are disappointed--poor Wright rather bitterly, I
+fear. I dreaded this necessity of choosing--nothing could be
+more heartrending. I calculated our program to start from 85°
+10' with twelve units of food [Footnote: A unit of food means a
+week's supplies for four men.] and eight men. We ought to be
+in this position to-morrow night, less one day's food. After
+all our harassing trouble one cannot but be satisfied with such
+a prospect.'
+
+The next stage of the journey, though accomplished without accident,
+was too exciting to be altogether pleasant, for crevasses were
+frequent and falls not at all uncommon. And at mid-day, while they
+were in the worst of places, a fog rolled up and kept them in their
+tents for nearly three hours.
+
+During this enforced delay, Scott wrote a letter which was taken
+back by the returning party.
+
+'December 21, 1911, Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on, considering
+all things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety,
+otherwise arrangements are working exactly as planned.
+
+'For your ear also I am exceedingly fit and can go with the best
+of them.
+
+'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right... but all will be well if we can get through
+to the Pole.
+
+'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to clear,
+an exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region.
+Teddy Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness
+this morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man
+I get first chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which
+step will give way. Still all this is interesting enough if one
+could only go on.
+
+'Since writing the above I made a dash for it; got out of the
+valley out of the fog and away from crevasses. So here we are
+practically on the summit and up to date in the provision line.
+We ought to get through.'
+
+After the fog had cleared off they soon got out of the worst
+crevasses, and on to a snow slope that led past Mount Darwin. The
+pull up the slope was long and stiff, but by holding on until
+7.30 P.M. they got off a good march and found a satisfactory
+place for their depôt. Fortunately the weather was both calm
+and bright, and all the various sorting arrangements that had
+to be made before the returning party left them were carried out
+under most favorable conditions. 'For me,' Scott says, 'it is an
+immense relief to have the indefatigable little Bowers to see
+to all detail arrangements of this sort,' and on the following
+day he added, 'we said an affecting farewell to the returning
+party, who have taken things very well, dear good fellows as
+they are.'
+
+Then the reorganized parties (Scott, Wilson, Oates and P.O. Evans;
+Bowers, E. R. Evans, Crean and Lashly) started off with their
+heavy loads, and any fears they had about their ability to pull
+them were soon removed.
+
+'It was a sad job saying good-bye,' Cherry-Garrard wrote in his
+diary, 'and I know some eyes were a bit dim. It was thick and
+snowing when we started after making the depôt, and the last we
+saw of them as we swung the sledge north, was a black dot just
+disappearing over the next ridge, and a big white pressure wave
+ahead of them.'
+
+Then the returning party set off on their homeward march, and
+arrived at Cape Evans on January 28, 1912, after being away for
+three months.
+
+Repairs to the sledgemeter delayed the advancing party for some
+time during their first march under the new conditions, but they
+managed to cover twelve miles, and, with the loads becoming lighter
+every day, Scott hoped to march longer hours and to make the
+requisite progress. Steering, however, south-west on the next
+morning they soon found themselves among such bad crevasses and
+pressure, that they were compelled to haul out to the north, and
+then to the west. One comfort was that all the time they were
+rising. 'It is rather trying having to march so far to the west,
+but if we keep rising we must come to the end of the disturbance
+some time.' During the second part of this march great changes
+of fortune awaited them. At first they started west up a slope,
+and on the top another pressure appeared on the left, but less
+lofty and more snow-covered than that which had troubled them in
+the morning. There was temptation to try this, but Scott resisted
+it and turned west up yet another slope, on the top of which they
+reached a most extraordinary surface. Narrow crevasses, that were
+quite invisible, ran in all directions. All of these crevasses
+were covered with a thin crust of hardened névé which had not a
+sign of a crack in it. One after another, and sometimes two at
+a time, they all fell in; and though they were getting fairly
+accustomed to unexpected falls through being unable to mark the
+run of the surface appearances of cracks, or where such cracks
+were covered with soft snow, they had never expected to find a
+hardened crust formed over a crack, and such a surface was as
+puzzling as it was dangerous and troublesome.
+
+For about ten minutes or so, while they were near these narrow
+crevasses, they came on to snow which had a hard crust and loose
+crystals below it, and each step was like breaking through a
+glass-house. And then, quite suddenly, the hard surface gave
+place to regular sastrugi, and their horizon leveled in every
+direction. At 6 P.M., when they reached Camp 45 (height about
+7,750 feet), 17 miles stood to their credit and Scott was feeling
+'very cheerful about everything.' 'My determination,' he said,
+'to keep mounting irrespective of course is fully justified, and
+I shall be indeed surprised if we have any further difficulties
+with crevasses or steep slopes. To me for the first time our goal
+seems really in sight.'
+
+On the following day (Christmas Eve) they did not find a single
+crevasse, but high pressure ridges were still to be seen, and
+Scott confessed that he should be glad to lose sight of such
+disturbances. Christmas Day, however, brought more trouble from
+crevasses--'very hard, smooth névé between high ridges at the
+edge of crevasses, and therefore very difficult to get foothold to
+pull the sledges.' To remedy matters they got out their ski sticks,
+but this did not prevent several of them from going half-down;
+while Lashly, disappearing completely, had to be pulled out by
+means of the Alpine rope. 'Lashly says the crevasse was 50 feet
+deep and 8 feet across, in form U, showing that the word
+"unfathomable" can rarely be applied. Lashly is 44 to-day and
+as hard as nails. His fall has not even disturbed his equanimity.'
+
+When, however, they had reached the top of the crevasse ridge
+a better surface was found, and their Christmas lunch--at which
+they had such luxuries as chocolate and raisins--was all the
+more enjoyable because 8 miles or so had already been gained.
+
+In the middle of the afternoon they got a fine view of the land,
+but more trouble was caused by crevasses, until towards the end
+of their march they got free of them and on to a slight decline
+down which they progressed at a swinging pace. Then they camped
+and prepared for their great Christmas meal. 'I must,' Scott says,
+'write a word of our supper last night. We had four courses. The
+first, pemmican, full whack, with slices of horse meat flavored
+with onion and curry powder, and thickened with biscuit; then an
+arrowroot, cocoa and biscuit hoosh sweetened; then a plum-pudding;
+then cocoa with raisins, and finally a dessert of caramels and
+ginger. After the feast it was difficult to move. Wilson and I
+couldn't finish our share of plum-pudding. We have all slept
+splendidly and feel thoroughly warm--such is the effect of full
+feeding.'
+
+The advance, possibly owing to the 'tightener' on Christmas night,
+was a little slow on the following morning, but nevertheless 15
+miles were covered in the day and the 86th parallel was reached.
+Crevasses still appeared, and though they avoided them on this
+march, they were not so lucky during the next stage to Camp 49.
+
+In fact Wednesday, December 27, was unfortunate owing to several
+reasons. To begin with, Bowers broke the only hypsometer thermometer,
+and so they were left with nothing to check their two aneroids.
+Then during the first part of the march they got among sastrugi
+which jerked the sledges about, and so tired out the second team
+that they had great difficulty in keeping up. And, finally, they
+found more crevasses and disturbances during the afternoon. For an
+hour the work was as painful as it could be, because they tumbled
+into the crevasses and got the most painful jerks. 'Steering the
+party,' Scott wrote at Camp 49, 'is no light task. One cannot
+allow one's thoughts to wander as others do, and when, as this
+afternoon, one gets amongst disturbances, I find it very worrying
+and tiring. I do trust we shall have no more of them. We have
+not lost sight of the sun since we came on the summit; we should
+get an extraordinary record of sunshine. It is monotonous work
+this; the sledgemeter and theodolite govern the situation.'
+
+During the next morning the second sledge made such 'heavy weather'
+that Scott changed places with E. R. Evans. That, however, did not
+improve matters much, for Scott soon found that the second team
+had not the same swing as his own team, so he changed Lashly for
+P.O. Evans, and then they seemed to get on better. At lunch-time
+they discussed the difficulties that the second party was having,
+and several reasons for them were put forward. One was that the
+team was stale, another that all the trouble was due to bad
+stepping and want of swing, and yet another was that the first's
+party's sledge pulled much more easily than the second party's.
+
+On the chance that this last suggestion was correct, Scott and
+his original team took the second party's sledge in the afternoon,
+and soon found that it was a terrible drag to get it along in
+soft snow, whereas the second party found no difficulty in pulling
+the sledge that had been given to them. 'So the sledge is the
+cause of the trouble, and taking it out, I found that all is due
+to want of care. The runners ran excellently, but the structure
+has been distorted by bad strapping, bad loading, &c. The party
+are not done, and I have told them plainly that they must wrestle
+with the trouble and get it right for themselves.'
+
+Friday evening found them at Camp 51, and at a height of about
+9,000 feet, But they had encountered a very bad surface, on which
+the strain of pulling was terrific. The hardest work occurred on
+two rises, because the loose snow had been blown over the rises
+and had rested on the north-facing slopes, and these heaps were
+responsible for the worst of their troubles. However, there was
+one satisfactory result of the march, for now that the second party
+had seen to the loading of their sledge they had ceased to lag.
+
+But the next stage was so exhausting that Scott's fears for the
+conditions of the second party again arose. Writing from Camp 52,
+on December 30, he says: 'To-morrow I'm going to march half a
+day, make a depôt and build the 10-foot sledges. The second party
+is certainly tiring; it remains to be seen how they will manage
+with the smaller sledge and lighter load. The surface is certainly
+much worse than it was 50 miles back. (T. -10°.) We have caught
+up Shackleton's dates. Everything would be cheerful if I could
+persuade myself that the second party were quite fit to go forward.'
+
+Camp was pitched after the morning's march on December 31, and
+the process of building up the 10-foot sledges was at once begun
+by P.O. Evans and Crean. 'It is a very remarkable piece of work.
+Certainly P.O. Evans is the most invaluable asset to our party. To
+build a sledge under these conditions is a fact for special record.'
+
+[Illustration: Man Hauling Camp, 87th parallel.]
+
+Half a day was lost while the sledges were made, but this they
+hoped to make up for by advancing at much greater speed. A depôt,
+called 'Three Degree Depôt,' consisting of a week's provision for
+both units, was made at this camp, and on New Year's morning, with
+lighter loads, Evans' party led the advance on foot, while Scott's
+team followed on ski. With a stick of chocolate to celebrate the
+New Year, and with only 170 miles between them and the Pole,
+prospects seemed to be getting brighter on New Year's night, and
+on the next evening at Camp 55 Scott decided that E. R. Evans,
+Lashly and Crean should go back after one more march.
+
+Writing from Camp 56 he says, 'They are disappointed, but take
+it well. Bowers is to come into our tent, and we proceed as a
+five-man unit to-morrow. We have 5-1/2 units of food--practically
+over a month's allowance for five people--it ought to see us
+through....  Very anxious to see how we shall manage tomorrow;
+if we can march well with the full load we shall be practically
+safe, I take it.'
+
+By the returning party Scott sent back a letter, dated January
+3, in which he wrote, 'Lat. 87° 32".' A last note from a hopeful
+position. I think it's going to be all right. We have a fine
+party going forward and arrangements are all going well.'
+
+On the next morning the returning men followed a little way
+until Scott was certain that his team could get along, and then
+farewells were said. In referring to this parting with E. Evans,
+Crean and Lashly, Scott wrote, 'I was glad to find their sledge
+is a mere nothing to them, and thus, no doubt, they will make a
+quick journey back,' and under average conditions they should
+easily have fulfilled anticipations. But a blizzard held them
+up for three days before they reached the head of the glacier,
+and by the time they reached the foot of it E. Evans had developed
+symptoms of scurvy. At One Ton Camp he was unable to stand without
+the support of his ski sticks, and although, with the help of his
+companions, he struggled on for 53 more miles in four days, he
+could go no farther. Rejecting his suggestion that he should be
+left alone while they pressed on for help, Crean and Lashly pulled
+him on the sledge with a devotion matching that of their captain
+years before, when he and Wilson had brought Shackleton, ill and
+helpless, safely to the Discovery.
+
+After four days of this pulling they reached Corner Camp, and
+then there was such a heavy snowfall that the sledge could not
+travel. In this crisis Crean set out to tramp alone to Hut Point,
+34 miles away, while Lashly stayed to nurse E. Evans, and most
+certainly was the means of keeping him alive until help came.
+After a remarkable march of 18 hours Crean reached Hut Point, and
+as soon as possible Atkinson and Demetri started off with both
+dog teams to relieve Evans and Lashly. Some delay was caused by
+persistent bad weather, but on February 22 Evans was got back to
+the Discovery hut, where he was unremittingly tended by Atkinson;
+and subsequently he was sent by sledge to the Terra Nova. So
+ended the tale of the last supporting party, though, as a sequel,
+it is good to record that in reward for their gallant conduct
+both Lashly and Crean received the Albert Medal.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE SOUTH POLE
+
+  The Silence was deep with a breath like sleep
+    As our sledge runners slid on the snow,
+  And the fate-full fall of our fur-clad feet
+    Struck mute like a silent blow
+  On a questioning 'Hush?' as the settling crust
+    Shrank shivering over the floe.
+  And the sledge in its track sent a whisper back
+    Which was lost in a white fog-bow.
+
+  And this was the thought that the Silence wrought,
+    As it scorched and froze us through,
+  For the secrets hidden are all forbidden
+    Till God means man to know.
+  We might be the men God meant should know
+    The heart of the Barrier snow,
+  In the heat of the sun, and the glow,
+    And the glare from the glistening floe,
+  As it scorched and froze us through and through
+    With the bite of the drifting snow.
+
+(These verses, called 'The Barrier Silence,' were written by
+Wilson for the South Polar Times. Characteristically, he sent
+them in typewritten, lest the editor should recognize his hand
+and judge them on personal rather than literary grounds. Many
+of their readers confess that they felt in these lines Wilson's
+own premonition of the event. The version given is the final
+form, as it appeared in the South Polar Times.)
+
+The ages of the five men when they continued the journey to the
+Pole were: Scott 43, Wilson 39, P.O. Evans 37, Oates 32, Bowers 28.
+
+After the departure of the last supporting party Scott was naturally
+anxious to get off a good day's march, and he was not disappointed.
+At first the sledge on which, thanks to P.O. Evans, everything
+was most neatly stowed away, went easily. But during the afternoon
+they had to do some heavy pulling on a surface covered with loose
+sandy snow. Nevertheless they covered some 15 miles before they
+camped, and so smoothly did everything seem to be going that Scott
+began to wonder what was in store for them. 'One can scarcely
+believe that obstacles will not present themselves to make our
+task more difficult. Perhaps the surface will be the element to
+trouble us.'
+
+And on the following day his supposition began to prove correct,
+for a light wind from the N.N.W. brought detached cloud and a
+constant fall of ice crystals, and in consequence the surface
+was as bad as it could be. The sastrugi seemed to increase as
+they advanced, and late in the afternoon they encountered a very
+rough surface with evidences of hard southerly wind. Luckily
+the sledge showed no signs of capsizing, but the strain of trying
+to keep up a rate of a little over a mile and a quarter an hour
+was very great. However, they were cheered by the thought, when
+they reached Camp 58 (height 10,320 feet), that they were very
+close to the 88th parallel, and a little more than 120 miles from
+the Pole.
+
+Another dreadful surface was their fate during the next march
+on Saturday, January 6. The sastrugi increased in height as they
+advanced, and presently they found themselves in the midst of
+a sea of fishhook waves, well remembered from their Northern
+experience. And, to add to their trouble, each sastrugus was
+covered with a beard of sharp branching crystals. They took off
+their ski and pulled on foot, but both morning and afternoon the
+work of getting the sledge along was tremendous. Writing at Camp
+59, Latitude 88° 7', Scott said, 'We think of leaving our ski
+here, mainly because of risk of breakage. Over the sastrugi it is
+all up and down hill, and the covering of ice crystals prevents
+the sledge from gliding even on the downgrade. The sastrugi,
+I fear, have come to stay, and we must be prepared for heavy
+marching, but in two days I hope to lighten loads with a depôt.
+We are south of Shackleton's last camp, so, I suppose, have made
+the most southerly camp.'
+
+During the next day, January 7, they had good cause to think that
+the vicissitudes of their work were bewildering. On account of the
+sastrugi the ski were left at Camp 59, but they had only marched
+a mile from it when the sastrugi disappeared. 'I kept debating
+the ski question and at this point stopped, and after discussion
+we went back and fetched the ski; it cost us 1-1/2 hours nearly.
+Marching again, I found to my horror we could scarcely move the
+sledge on ski; the first hour was awful owing to the wretched
+coating of loose sandy snow.' Consequently this march was the
+shortest they had made on the summit, and there was no doubt that
+if things remained for long they were, it would be impossible to
+keep up the strain of such strenuous pulling. Luckily, however,
+loads were to be lightened on the following day by a weight of
+about 100 lbs., and there was also hope of a better surface if
+only the crystal deposit would either harden up or disappear.
+Their food, too, was proving ample. 'What luck to have hit on
+such an excellent ration. We really are an excellently found
+party.' Indeed, apart from the strain of pulling, Scott's only
+anxiety on Sunday, January 7, was that Evans had a nasty cut
+on his hand.
+
+They woke the next morning to find their first summit blizzard;
+but Scott was not in the least perturbed by this delay, because
+he thought that the rest would give Evans' hand a better chance
+of recovery, and he also felt that a day in their comfortable
+bags within their double-walled tent would do none of them any
+harm. But, both on account of lost time and food and the slow
+accumulation of ice, he did not want more than one day's delay.
+
+'It is quite impossible,' he wrote during this time of waiting,
+'to speak too highly of my companions. Each fulfils his office
+to the party; Wilson, first as doctor, ever on the lookout to
+alleviate the small pains and troubles incidental to the work;
+now as cook, quick, careful and dexterous, ever thinking of some
+fresh expedient to help the camp life; tough as steel on the
+traces, never wavering from start to finish.
+
+'Evans, a giant worker with a really remarkable head-piece. It is
+only now I realize how much has been due to him. Our ski shoes and
+crampons have been absolutely indispensable, and if the original
+ideas were not his, the details of manufacture and design and
+the good workmanship are his alone. He is responsible for every
+sledge, every sledge fitting, tents, sleeping-bags, harness, and
+when one cannot recall a single expression of dissatisfaction
+with anyone of these items, it shows what an invaluable assistant
+he has been. Now, besides superintending the putting up of the
+tent, he thinks out and arranges the packing of the sledge; it
+is extraordinary how neatly and handily everything is stowed,
+and how much study has been given to preserving the suppleness
+and good running qualities of the machine. On the Barrier, before
+the ponies were killed, he was ever roaming round, correcting
+faults of stowage.
+
+'Little Bowers remains a marvel--he is thoroughly enjoying himself.
+I leave all the provision arrangement in his hands, and at all
+times he knows exactly how we stand, or how each returning party
+should fare. It has been a complicated business to redistribute
+stores at various stages of reorganization, but not one single
+mistake has been made. In addition to the stores, he keeps the
+most thorough and conscientious meteorological record, and to
+this he now adds the duty of observer and photographer. Nothing
+comes amiss to him, and no work is too hard. It is a difficulty
+to get him into the tent; he seems quite oblivious of the cold,
+and he lies coiled in his bag writing and working out sights long
+after the others are asleep.
+
+'Of these three it is a matter for thought and congratulation
+that each is specially suited for his own work, but would not
+be capable of doing that of the others as well as it is done.
+Each is invaluable. Oates had his invaluable period with the
+ponies; now he is a foot slogger and goes hard the whole time,
+does his share of camp work, and stands the hardships as well
+as any of us. I would not like to be without him either. So our
+five people are perhaps as happily selected as it is possible
+to imagine.'
+
+Not until after lunch on the 9th were they able to break camp,
+the light being extremely bad when they marched, but the surface
+good. So that they might keep up the average length of their
+daily marches Scott wanted to leave a depôt, but as the blizzard
+tended to drift up their tracks, he was not altogether confident
+that to leave stores on such a great plain was a wise proceeding.
+However, after a terribly hard march on the following morning,
+they decided to leave a depôt at the lunch camp, and there they
+built a cairn and left one week's food with as many articles of
+clothing as they could possibly spare.
+
+Then they went forward with eighteen days' food on a surface
+that was 'beyond words,' for it was covered with sandy snow,
+and, when the sun shone, even to move the sledge forward at the
+slowest pace was distressingly difficult. On that night from
+Camp 62, Scott wrote, 'Only 85 miles (geog.) from the Pole, but
+it's going to be a stiff pull both ways apparently; still we
+do make progress, which is something.... It is very difficult
+to imagine what is happening to the weather.... The clouds don't
+seem to come from anywhere, form and disperse without visible
+reason.... The meteorological conditions seem to point to an
+area of variable light winds, and that plot will thicken as we
+advance.'
+
+From the very beginning of the march on January 11 the pulling
+was heavy, but when the sun came out the surface became as bad
+as bad could be. All the time the sledge rasped and creaked, and
+the work of moving it onward was agonizing. At lunch-time they
+had managed to cover six miles but at fearful cost to themselves,
+and although when they camped for the night they were only about
+74 miles from the Pole, Scott asked himself whether they could
+possibly keep up such a strain for seven more days. 'It takes
+it out of us like anything. None of us ever had such hard work
+before.... Our chance still holds good if we can put the work
+in, but it's a terribly trying time.'
+
+For a few minutes during the next afternoon they experienced the
+almost forgotten delight of having the sledge following easily.
+The experience was very short but it was also very sweet, for
+Scott had begun to fear that their powers of pulling were rapidly
+weakening, and those few minutes showed him that they only wanted
+a good surface to get on as merrily as of old. At night they were
+within 63 miles of the Pole, and just longing for a better surface
+to help them on their way.
+
+But whatever the condition of the surface, Bowers continued to do
+his work with characteristic thoroughness and imperturbability;
+and after this appalling march he insisted, in spite of Scott's
+protest, on taking sights after they had camped--an all the more
+remarkable display of energy as he, being the only one of the
+party who pulled on foot, had spent an even more strenuous day
+than the others, who had been 'comparatively restful on ski.'
+
+Again, on the next march, they had to pull with all their might
+to cover some 11 miles. 'It is wearisome work this tugging and
+straining to advance a light sledge. Still, we get along. I did
+manage to get my thoughts off the work for a time to-day, which
+is very restful. We should be in a poor way without our ski,
+though Bowers manages to struggle through the soft snow without
+tiring his short legs.' Sunday night, January 14, found them at
+Camp 66 and less than 40 miles from the Pole. Steering was the
+great difficulty on this march, because a light southerly wind
+with very low drift often prevented Scott from seeing anything,
+and Bowers, in Scott's shadow, gave directions. By this time
+the feet of the whole party were beginning, mainly owing to the
+bad condition of their finnesko, to suffer from the cold. 'Oates
+seems to be feeling the cold and fatigue more than the rest of
+us, but we are all very fit. It is a critical time, but we ought
+to pull through.... Oh! for a few fine days! So close it seems
+and only the weather to balk us.'
+
+Another terrible surface awaited them on the morrow, and they
+were all 'pretty well done' when they camped for lunch. There they
+decided to leave their last depôt, but although their reduced load
+was now very light, Scott feared that the friction would not be
+greatly reduced. A pleasant surprise, however, was in store for
+him, as after lunch the sledge ran very lightly, and a capital
+march was made. 'It is wonderful,' he wrote on that night (January
+15), 'to think that two long marches would land us at the Pole. We
+left our depôt to-day with nine days' provisions, so that it ought
+to be a certain thing now, and the only appalling possibility
+the sight of the Norwegian flag forestalling ours. Little Bowers
+continues his indefatigable efforts to get good sights, and it
+is wonderful how he works them up in his sleeping-bag in our
+congested tent. Only 27 miles from the Pole. We ought to do it
+now.'
+
+The next morning's march took them 7-1/2 miles nearer and their
+noon sight showed them in Lat. 89° 42' S.; and feeling that the
+following day would see them at the Pole they started off after
+lunch in the best of spirits. Then, after advancing for an hour
+or so, Bowers' sharp eyes detected what he thought was a cairn,
+but although he was uneasy about it he argued that it must be a
+sastrugus.
+
+'Half an hour later he detected a black speck ahead. Soon we
+knew that this could not be a natural snow feature. We marched
+on, found that it was a black flag tied to a sledge bearer; near
+by the remains of a camp; sledge tracks and ski tracks going and
+coming and the clear trace of dogs' paws--many dogs. This told
+us the whole story. The Norwegians have forestalled us and are
+first at the Pole. It is a terrible disappointment, and I am
+very sorry for my loyal companions. Many thoughts come and much
+discussion have we had. To-morrow we must march on to the Pole
+and then hasten home with all the speed we can compass. All the
+day-dreams must go; it will be a wearisome return. Certainly
+also the Norwegians found an easy way up.'
+
+Very little sleep came to any of the party after the shock of
+this discovery, and when they started at 7.30 on the next morning
+(January 17) head winds with a temperature of -22° added to their
+depression of spirit. For some way they followed the Norwegian
+tracks, and in about three miles they passed two cairns. Then,
+as the tracks became increasingly drifted up and were obviously
+leading them too far to the west, they decided to make straight
+for the Pole according to their calculations. During the march
+they covered about 14 miles, and at night Scott wrote in his
+journal, 'The Pole. Yes, but under very different circumstances
+from those expected.'
+
+That announcement tells its own story, and it would be impertinent
+to guess at the feelings of those intrepid travelers when they
+found themselves forestalled. Nevertheless they had achieved the
+purpose they had set themselves, and the fact that they could not
+claim the reward of priority makes not one jot of difference in
+estimating the honors that belong to them.
+
+[Illustration: The party at the South Pole. (Capt. Oates; Capt.
+Scott; P.O. Evans; Lieut. Bowers; Dr. Wilson.)]
+
+'Well,' Scott continued, 'it is something to have got here, and
+the wind may be our friend to-morrow.... Now for the run home
+and a desperate struggle. I wonder if we can do it.'
+
+On the following morning after summing up all their observations,
+they came to the conclusion that they were one mile beyond the
+Pole and three miles to the right of it, in which direction,
+more or less, Bowers could see a tent or cairn. A march of two
+miles from their camp took them to the tent, in which they found
+a record of five Norwegians having been there:
+
+  'Roald Amundsen
+   Olav Olavson Bjaaland
+   Hilmer Hanssen
+   Sverre H. Hassel
+   Oscar Wisting.
+                      --16 Dec. 1911.
+
+'The tent is fine--a small compact affair supported by a single
+bamboo. A note from Amundsen, which I keep, asks me to forward
+a letter to King Haakon!'
+
+In the tent a medley of articles had been left: three half bags
+of reindeer containing a miscellaneous assortment of mitts and
+sleeping-socks, very various in description, a sextant, a Norwegian
+artificial horizon and a hypsometer without boiling-point
+thermometers, a sextant and hypsometer of English make. 'Left
+a note to say I had visited the tent with companions. Bowers
+photographing and Wilson sketching. Since lunch we have marched
+6.2 miles S.S.E. by compass (i.e. northwards). Sights at lunch
+gave us 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from the Pole, so we call it the
+Pole Camp. (Temp. Lunch -21°.) We built a cairn, put up our poor
+slighted Union Jack, and photographed ourselves--mighty cold
+work all of it--less than 1/2 a mile south we saw stuck up an
+old underrunner of a sledge. This we commandeered as a yard for
+a floorcloth sail. I imagine it was intended to mark the exact
+spot of the Pole as near as the Norwegians could fix it. (Height
+9,500.) A note attached talked of the tent as being 2 miles
+from the Pole. Wilson keeps the note. There is no doubt that
+our predecessors have made thoroughly sure of their mark and
+fully carried out their program. I think the Pole is about 9,500
+feet in height; this is remarkable, considering that in Lat. 88°
+we were about 10,500.
+
+'We carried the Union Jack about 3/4 of a mile north with us and
+left it on a piece of stick as near as we could fix it. I fancy
+the Norwegians arrived at the Pole on the 15th Dec. and left on
+the 17th, ahead of a date quoted by me in London as ideal, viz.
+Dec. 22.... Well, we have turned our back now on the goal of our
+ambition and must face our 800 miles of solid dragging--and
+good-bye to most of the day-dreams!'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+ON THE HOMEWARD JOURNEY
+
+  It matters not how strait the gate,
+    How charged with punishments the scroll;
+  I am the master of my fate,
+    I am the Captain of my soul.
+  --HENLEY.
+
+During the afternoon of Thursday, January 18, they left the Pole
+7 miles behind them, and early in the march on the following
+morning picked up their outward tracks and a Norwegian cairn.
+These tracks they followed until they came to the black flag
+that had been the first means of telling them of the Norwegians'
+success. 'We have picked this flag up, using the staff for our
+sail, and are now camped about 1-1/2 miles further back on our
+tracks. So that is the last of the Norwegians for the present.'
+
+In spite of a surface that was absolutely spoilt by crystals
+they marched 18-1/2 miles on the Friday, and also easily found
+the cairns that they had built; but until they reached Three
+Degree Depôt which was still 150 miles away, anxiety, Scott
+said, could not be laid to rest.
+
+On the next day they reached their Southern Depôt and picked
+up four days' food. With the wind behind them and with full sail
+they went along at a splendid rate in the afternoon, until they
+were pulled up by a surface on which drifting snow was lying
+in heaps; and then, with the snow clinging to the ski, pulling
+became terribly distressing. 'I shall be very glad when Bowers
+gets his ski,' Scott wrote at R. 3, [Footnote: A number preceded
+by R. marks the camps on the return journey.] 'I'm afraid he
+must find these long marches very trying with short legs, but
+he is an undefeated little sportsman. I think Oates is feeling
+the cold and fatigue more than most of us. It is blowing pretty
+hard to-night, but with a good march we have earned one good
+hoosh and are very comfortable in the tent. It is everything
+now to keep up a good marching pace; I trust we shall be able
+to do so and catch the ship. Total march, 18-1/2 miles.'
+
+A stiff blizzard with thick snow awaited them on the Sunday morning,
+but the weather cleared after mid-day, and they struggled on for
+a few very weary hours. At night they had 6 days' food in hand
+and 45 miles between them and their next depôt, where they had
+left 7 days' food to take them on the go miles to the Three Degree
+Depôt. 'Once there we ought to be safe, but we ought to have a day
+or two in hand on arrival and may have difficulty with following
+the tracks. However, if we can get a rating sight for our watches
+to-morrow we should be independent of the tracks at a pinch.'
+
+January 22 brought an added worry in the fact that the ski boots
+were beginning to show signs of wear, but this was nothing compared
+with the anxiety Scott began to feel about Evans on the following
+day. 'There is no doubt that Evans is a good deal run down--his
+fingers are badly blistered and his nose is rather seriously
+congested with frequent frost-bites. He is very much annoyed with
+himself, which is not a good sign. I think Wilson, Bowers and I
+are as fit as possible under the circumstances. Oates gets cold
+feet.... We are only about 13 miles from our "Degree and half"
+Depôt and should get there tomorrow. The weather seems to be
+breaking up. Pray God we have something of a track to follow to
+the Three Degree Depôt--once we pick that up we ought to be right.'
+
+Another blizzard attacked them at mid-day on the morrow, and so,
+though only seven miles from their depôt, they were obliged to
+camp, for it was impossible to see the tracks. With the prospect
+of bad weather and scant food on the tremendous summit journey
+in front of them, and with Oates and Evans suffering badly from
+frost-bites, Scott had to admit that the situation was going from
+bad to worse. But on the next afternoon, they managed to reach
+the Half Degree Depôt, and left with 9-1/2 days' provision to
+carry them the next 89 miles.
+
+During Friday, January 26, they found their old tracks completely
+wiped out, but knowing that there were two cairns at four-mile
+intervals they were not anxious until they picked up the first
+far on their right, and afterwards Bowers caught a glimpse of
+the second which was far on their left. 'There is not a sign of
+our tracks between these cairns, but the last, marking our night
+camp of the 6th, No. 59, is in the belt of hard sastrugi, and I
+was comforted to see signs of the track reappearing as we camped.
+I hope to goodness we can follow it to-morrow.'
+
+Throughout the early part of the next day's march, however, these
+hopes were not realized. Scott and Wilson pulling in front on
+ski, the others being on foot, found it very difficult to follow
+the track, which constantly disappeared altogether and at the
+best could only just be seen.
+
+On the outward journey, owing to the heavy mounds, they had been
+compelled to take a very zigzag course, and in consequence the
+difficulty of finding signs of it was greatly increased. But by
+hook or crook they succeeded in sticking to the old track, and
+during the last part of the march they discovered, to their joy
+and relief, that it was much easier to follow. Through this march
+they were helped on their way by a southerly breeze, and as the
+air was at last dry again their tents and equipment began to lose
+the icy state caused by the recent blizzards. On the other hand,
+they were beginning to feel that more food, especially at lunch,
+was becoming more and more necessary, and their sleeping-bags,
+although they managed to sleep well enough in them, were slowly
+but steadily getting wetter.
+
+On Sunday night, at R. 11, they were only 43 miles from their
+depôt with six days food in hand, after doing a good march of
+16 miles. 'If this goes on and the weather holds we shall get
+our depôt without trouble. I shall indeed be glad to get it on
+the sledge. We are getting more hungry, there is no doubt. The
+lunch meal is beginning to seem inadequate. We are pretty thin,
+especially Evans, but none of us are feeling worked out. I doubt
+if we could drag heavy loads, but we can keep going with our
+light one. We talk of food a good deal more, and shall be glad
+to open out on it.
+
+With the wind helping greatly and with no difficulty in finding
+the tracks, two splendid marches followed; but on the Tuesday
+their position had its serious as well as its bright side, for
+Wilson strained a tendon in his leg. 'It has,' Scott wrote, 'given
+pain all day and is swollen to-night. Of course, he is full of
+pluck over it, but I don't like the idea of such an accident
+here. To add to the trouble Evans has dislodged two finger-nails
+to-night; his hands are really bad, and to my surprise he shows
+signs of losing heart over it. He hasn't been cheerful since the
+accident.... We can get along with bad fingers, but it [will be]
+a mighty serious thing if Wilson's leg doesn't improve.'
+
+Before lunch on Wednesday, January 31, they picked up the Three
+Degree Depôt, and were able slightly to increase their rations,
+though not until they reached the pony food depôt could they
+look for a 'real feed.' After lunch (January 31) the surface,
+owing to sandy crystals, was very bad, and with Wilson walking
+by the sledge to rest his leg as much as possible, pulling was
+even more toilsome work than usual. During the afternoon they
+picked up Bowers' ski, which he had left on December 31. 'The
+last thing we have to find on the summit, thank Heaven! Now we
+have only to go north and so shall welcome strong winds.'
+
+Pulling on throughout the next day they reached a lunch cairn,
+which had been made when they were only a week out from the Upper
+Glacier Depôt. With eight days' food in hand Scott hoped that they
+would easily reach it, for their increased food allowance was
+having a good effect upon all of them, and Wilson's leg was better.
+On the other hand, Evans was still a cause for considerable anxiety.
+
+All went very well during their march to R. 16 on February 2
+until Scott, trying to keep the track and his feet at the same
+time on a very slippery surface, came 'an awful purler' on his
+shoulder. 'It is horribly sore to-night and another sick person
+added to our tent--three out of five injured, and the most
+troublesome surfaces to come. We shall be lucky if we get through
+without serious injury.... The extra food is certainly helping
+us, but we are getting pretty hungry.... It is time we were off
+the summit--Pray God another four days will see us pretty well
+clear of it. Our bags are getting very wet and we ought to have
+more sleep.'
+
+On leaving their sixteenth camp they were within 80 miles or so of
+the Upper Glacier Depôt under Mount Darwin, and after exasperating
+delays in searching for tracks and cairns, they resolved to waste
+no more time, but to push due north just as fast as they could.
+Evans' fingers were still very bad, and there was little hope that
+he would be able for some time to help properly with the work, and
+on the following day an accident that entailed the most serious
+consequences happened.
+
+'Just before lunch,' Scott wrote at R. 18, 'unexpectedly fell
+into crevasses, Evans and I together--a second fall for Evans,
+[Footnote: Wilson afterwards expressed an opinion that Evans
+injured his brain by one of these falls.] and I camped. After
+lunch saw disturbance ahead.... We went on ski over hard shiny
+descending surface. Did very well, especially towards end of
+march, covering in all 18.1.... The party is not improving in
+condition, especially Evans, who is becoming rather dull and
+incapable. Thank the Lord we have good food at each meal, but we
+get hungrier in spite of it. Bowers is splendid, full of energy
+and bustle all the time.'
+
+On Monday morning a capital advance of over 10 miles was made,
+but in the afternoon difficulties again arose to harass them.
+Huge pressures and great street crevasses partly open barred
+their way, and so they had to steer more and more to the west on
+a very erratic course. Camping-time found them still in a very
+disturbed region, and although they were within 25 to 30 miles of
+their depôt there seemed to be no way through the disturbances
+that continued to block their path. On turning out to continue
+their march they went straight for Mount Darwin, but almost at
+once found themselves among huge open chasms. To avoid these
+they turned northwards between two of them, with the result that
+they got into chaotic disturbance. Consequently they were compelled
+to retrace their steps for a mile or so, and then striking to the
+west they got among a confused sea of sastrugi, in the midst of
+which they camped for lunch. A little better fortune attended
+them in the afternoon, and at their twentieth camp Scott estimated
+that they were anything from 10 to 15 miles off the Upper Glacier
+Depôt. 'Food is low and weather uncertain,' he wrote, 'so that
+many hours of the day were anxious; but this evening (February
+6), though we are not so far advanced as I expected, the outlook
+is much more promising. Evans is the chief anxiety now; his cuts
+and wounds suppurate, his nose looks very bad, and altogether he
+shows considerable signs of being played out. Things may mend
+for him on the Glacier, and his wounds get some respite under
+warmer conditions. I am indeed glad to think we shall so soon
+have done with plateau conditions. It took us 27 days to reach
+the Pole and 21 days back--in all 48 days--nearly 7 weeks in
+low temperature with almost incessant wind.'
+
+February 7, which was to see the end of their summit journey,
+opened with a very tiresome march down slopes and over terraces
+covered with hard sastrugi. However, they made fairly good progress
+during the day, and between six and seven o'clock their depôt was
+sighted and soon afterwards they were camped close to it. 'Well,'
+Scott wrote at R. 21, 'we have come through our 7 weeks' ice camp
+journey and most of us are fit, but I think another week might
+have had a very bad effect on P.O. Evans, who is going steadily
+downhill.'
+
+On the next morning they started late owing to various
+re-arrangements having to be made, and then steered for Mt. Darwin
+to get specimens. As Wilson was still unable to use his ski,
+Bowers went on and got several specimens of much the same type--a
+close-grained granite rock which weathers red; and as soon as
+Bowers had rejoined the party they skidded downhill fairly fast,
+Scott and Bowers (the leaders) being on ski, Wilson and Oates on
+foot alongside the sledge, while Evans was detached.
+
+By lunch-time they were well down towards Mt. Buckley, and decided
+to steer for the moraine under the mountain. Having crossed some
+very irregular steep slopes with big crevasses, they slid down
+towards the rocks, and then they saw that the moraine was so
+interesting that, after an advance of some miles had brought
+escape from the wind, the decision was made to camp and spend
+the rest of the day in geologising.
+
+It has been extremely interesting. We found ourselves under
+perpendicular cliffs of Beacon sandstone, weathering rapidly
+and carrying veritable coal seams. From the last Wilson, with
+his sharp eyes, has picked several plant impressions, the last
+a piece of coal with beautifully traced leaves in layers, also
+some excellently preserved impressions of thick stems, showing
+cellular structure. In one place we saw the cast of small waves
+in the sand. To-night Bill has got a specimen of limestone with
+archeo-cyathus--the trouble is one cannot imagine where the stone
+comes from; it is evidently rare, as few specimens occur in the
+moraine. There is a good deal of pure white quartz. Altogether
+we have had a most interesting afternoon, and the relief of being
+out of the wind and in a warmer temperature is inexpressible. I
+hope and trust we shall all buck up again now that the conditions
+are more favorable.... A lot could be written on the delight of
+setting foot on rock after 14 weeks of snow and ice, and nearly
+7 out of sight of aught else. It is like going ashore after a
+sea voyage.'
+
+On the following morning they kept along the edge of the moraine
+to the end of Mt. Buckley, and again stopping to geologise, Wilson
+had a great find of vegetable impression in a piece of limestone.
+The time spent in collecting these geological specimens from the
+Beardmore Glacier, and the labor endured in dragging the additional
+35 lbs. to their last camp, were doubtless a heavy price to pay;
+but great as the cost was they were more than willing to pay it.
+The fossils contained in these specimens, often so inconspicuous
+that it is a wonder they were discovered by the collectors, proved
+to be the most valuable obtained by the expedition, and promise to
+solve completely the questions of the age and past history of this
+portion of the Antarctic continent. At night, after a difficult
+day among bad ice pressures, Scott almost apologizes for being too
+tired to write any geological notes, and as the sledgemeter had
+been unshipped he could not tell the distance they had traversed.
+'Very warm on march and we are all pretty tired.... Our food
+satisfies now, but we must march to keep on the full ration, and
+we want rest, yet we shall pull through all right, D. V. We are
+by no means worn out.'
+
+On the night of Friday, February 10, they got some of the sleep
+that was so urgently needed, and in consequence there was a great
+change for the better in the appearance of everyone. Their progress,
+however, was delayed during the next afternoon by driving snow,
+which made steering impossible and compelled them to camp. 'We
+have two full days' food left,' Scott wrote on the same evening,
+'and though our position is uncertain, we are certainly within
+two outward marches from the middle glacier depôt. However, if
+the weather doesn't clear by to-morrow, we must either march
+blindly on or reduce food.'
+
+The conditions on Sunday morning were utterly wretched for the
+surface was bad and the light horrible, but they marched on until,
+with the light getting worse and worse, they suddenly found
+themselves in pressure. Then, unfortunately, they decided to
+steer east, and after struggling on for several hours found
+themselves in a regular trap. Having for a short time in the
+earlier part of the day got on to a good surface, they thought
+that all was going well and did not reduce their lunch rations.
+But half an hour after lunch they suddenly got into a terrible
+ice mess.
+
+For three hours they plunged forward on ski, first thinking that
+they were too much to the right, and then too much to the left;
+meanwhile the disturbance got worse and worse, and there were
+moments when Scott nearly despaired of finding a way out of the
+awful turmoil in which they found themselves. At length, arguing
+that there must be a way out on the left, they plunged in that
+direction, only to find that the surface was more icy and
+crevassed.
+
+'We could not manage our ski and pulled on foot, falling into
+crevasses every minute--most luckily no bad accident. At length
+we saw a smoother slope towards the land, pushed for it, but
+knew it was a woefully long way from us. The turmoil changed in
+character, irregular crevassed surface giving way to huge chasms,
+closely packed and most difficult to cross. It was very heavy
+work, but we had grown desperate. We won through at 10 P.M., and
+I write after 12 hours on the march. I think we are on or about
+the right track now, but we are still a good number of miles from
+the depôt, so we reduced rations to-night. We had three pemmican
+meals left and decided to make them into four. To-morrow's lunch
+must serve for two if we do not make big progress. It was a test
+of our endurance on the march and our fitness with small supper.
+We have come through well.'
+
+On leaving R. 25, early on Monday morning, everything went well
+in the forenoon and a good march was made over a fair surface. Two
+hours before lunch they were cheered by the sight of their night
+camp of December 18 (the day after they had made their depôt),
+for this showed them that they were still on the right track.
+In the afternoon, refreshed by tea, they started off confidently
+expecting to reach their depôt, but by a most unfortunate chance
+they kept too far to the left and arrived in a maze of crevasses
+and fissures. Afterwards their course became very erratic, and
+finally, at 9 P.M., they landed in the worst place of all.
+
+'After discussion we decided to camp, and here we are, after a
+very short supper and one meal only remaining in the food bag;
+the depôt doubtful in locality. We must get there to-morrow.
+Meanwhile we are cheerful with an effort.'
+
+On that night, at Camp R. 26, Scott says that they all slept
+well in spite of grave anxieties, his own being increased by
+his visits outside the tent, when he saw the sky closing over
+and snow beginning to fall. At their ordinary hour for getting
+up the weather was so thick that they had to remain in their
+sleeping-bags; but presently the weather cleared enough for Scott
+dimly to see the land of the Cloudmaker. Then they got up and after
+breakfasting off some tea and one biscuit, so that they might
+leave their scanty remaining meal for even greater emergencies,
+they started to march through an awful turmoil of broken ice. In
+about an hour, however, they hit upon an old moraine track where
+the surface was much smoother, though the fog that was still
+hanging over everything added to their difficulties. Presently
+Evans raised their hopes with a shout of depôt ahead, but it
+proved to be nothing but a shadow on the ice, and then Wilson
+suddenly saw the actual depôt flag. 'It was an immense relief,
+and we were soon in possession of our 3-1/2 days' food. The relief
+to all is inexpressible; needless to say, we camped and had a
+meal.'
+
+Marching on in the afternoon Scott kept more to the left, and
+closed the mountain until they came to the stone moraines, where
+Wilson detached himself and made a collection, while the others
+advanced with the sledge. Writing that night (Tuesday, February
+13) at 'Camp R. 27, beside Cloudmaker' Scott says, 'We camped
+late, abreast the lower end of the mountain, and had nearly our
+usual satisfying supper. Yesterday was the worst experience of
+the trip and gave a horrid feeling of insecurity. Now we are
+right, but we must march. In future food must be worked so that
+we do not run so short if the weather fails us. We mustn't get
+into a hole like this again.... Bowers has had a very bad attack
+of snow-blindness, and Wilson another almost as bad. Evans has
+no power to assist with camping work.'
+
+A good march followed to Camp R. 28, and with nearly three days'
+food they were about 30 miles away from the Lower Glacier Depôt.
+On the other hand, Scott was becoming most gravely concerned
+about the condition of the party, and especially about Evans,
+who seemed to be going from bad to worse. And on the next evening,
+after a heavy march he wrote, 'We don't know our distance from
+the depôt, but imagine about 20 miles. We are pulling for food
+and not very strong evidently.... We have reduced food, also sleep;
+feeling rather done. Trust 1-1/2 days or 2 at most will see us
+at depôt.'
+
+Friday's march brought them within 10 or 12 miles of their depôt,
+and with food enough to last them until the next night; but anxiety
+about Evans was growing more and more intense. 'Evans has nearly
+broken down in brain, we think. He is absolutely changed from
+his normal self-reliant self. This morning and this afternoon he
+stopped the march on some trivial excuse.... Memory should hold
+the events of a very troublesome march with more troubles ahead.
+Perhaps all will be well if we can get to our depôt to-morrow
+fairly early, but it is anxious work with the sick man.'
+
+On the following morning (Saturday, February 17) Evans looked a
+little better after a good sleep, and declared, as he always did,
+that he was quite well; but half an hour after he had started in
+his place on the traces, he worked his ski shoes adrift and had
+to leave the sledge. At the time the surface was awful, the soft
+snow, which had recently fallen, clogging the ski and runners
+at every step, the sledge groaning, the sky overcast, and the
+land hazy. They stopped for about an hour, and then Evans came up
+again, but very slowly. Half an hour later he dropped out again
+on the same plea, and asked Bowers to lend him a piece of string.
+Scott cautioned him to come on as quickly as he could, and he
+gave what seemed to be a cheerful answer. Then the others were
+compelled to push on, until abreast the Monument Rock they halted
+and, seeing Evans a long way behind, decided to camp for lunch.
+
+At first there was no alarm, but when they looked out after lunch
+and saw him still afar off they were thoroughly frightened, and
+all four of them started back on ski. Scott was the first to
+meet the poor man, who was on his knees with hands uncovered and
+frost-bitten and a wild look in his eyes. When asked what was
+the matter, he replied slowly that he didn't know, but thought
+that he must have fainted.
+
+They managed to get him on his feet, but after two or three steps
+he sank down again and showed every sign of complete collapse.
+Then Scott, Wilson and Bowers hastened back for the sledge, while
+Oates remained with him.
+
+'When we returned he was practically unconscious, and when we
+got him into the tent quite comatose. He died quietly at 12.30 A.M.'
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+THE LAST MARCH
+
+  Men like a man who has shown himself a pleasant companion
+  through a week's walking tour. They worship the man who,
+  over thousands of miles, for hundreds of days, through renewed
+  difficulties and efforts, has brought them without friction,
+  arrogance or dishonor to the victory proposed, or to the higher
+  glory of unshaken defeat.
+  --R. KIPLING.
+
+After this terrible experience the rest of the party marched on
+later in the night, and arrived at their depôt; there they allowed
+themselves five hours' sleep and then marched to Shambles Camp,
+which they reached at 3 P.M. on Sunday, February 18. Plenty of
+horse meat awaited them, with the prospect of plenty to come if
+they could only keep up good marches. 'New life seems to come with
+greater food almost immediately, but I am anxious about the Barrier
+surfaces.'
+
+A late start was made from Shambles Camp, because much work had
+to be done in shifting sledges [Footnote: Sledges were left at
+the chief depôts to replace damaged ones.] and fitting up the
+new one with a mast, &c., and in packing horse meat and personal
+effects. Soon after noon, however, they got away, and found the
+surface every bit as bad as they expected. Moreover Scott's fears
+that there would not be much change during the next few days
+were most thoroughly justified. On the Monday afternoon they
+had to pullover a really terrible surface that resembled desert
+sand. And the same conditions awaited them on the following day,
+when, after four hours' plodding in the morning, they reached
+Desolation Camp. At this camp they had hoped to find more pony
+meat, but disappointment awaited them. 'Total mileage for day 7,'
+Scott wrote at R. 34, 'the ski tracks pretty plain and easily
+followed this afternoon.... Terribly slow progress, but we hope
+for better things as we clear the land.... Pray God we get better
+traveling as we are not so fit as we were, and the season is
+advancing apace.'
+
+Again, on Wednesday, February 21, the surface was terrible, and
+once more Scott expressed a devout hope that as they drew away
+from the land the conditions might get better; and that this
+improvement should come and come soon was all the more necessary
+because they were approaching a critical part of their journey,
+in which there were long distances between the cairns. 'If we
+can tide that over we get on the regular cairn route, and with
+luck should stick to it; but everything depends on the weather.
+We never won a march of 8-1/2 miles with greater difficulty, but
+we can't go on like this.'
+
+Very fresh wind from the S.E., with strong surface drift, so
+completely wiped out the faint track they were trying to follow
+during the next stage of their struggle homewards, that lunch-time
+came without a sight of the cairn they had hoped to pass. Later
+in the day Bowers, feeling sure that they were too far to the
+west, steered out, with the result that another pony camp was
+passed by unseen. 'There is little doubt we are in for a rotten
+critical time going home, and the lateness of the season may
+make it really serious.... Looking at the map to-night there is
+no doubt we are too far to the east. With clear weather we ought
+to be able to correct the mistake, but will the weather clear?
+It's a gloomy position, more especially as one sees the same
+difficulty recurring even when we have corrected this error. The
+wind is dying down to-night and the sky clearing in the south,
+which is hopeful. Meanwhile it is satisfactory to note that such
+untoward events fail to damp the spirit of the party.'
+
+The hopes of better weather were realized during the following
+day, when they started off in sunshine and with very little wind.
+Difficulties as to their course remained, but luckily Bowers
+took a round of angles, and with the help of the chart they came
+to the conclusion that they must be inside rather than outside
+the tracks. The data, however, were so meager that none of them
+were happy about taking the great responsibility of marching out.
+Then, just as they had decided to lunch, Bowers' wonderfully
+sharp eyes detected an old double lunch cairn, and the theodolite
+telescope confirmed it. Camp R. 37 found them within 2-1/2 miles
+of their depôt. 'We cannot see it, but, given fine weather, we
+cannot miss it. We are, therefore, extraordinarily relieved....
+Things are again looking up, as we are on the regular line of
+cairns, with no gaps right home, I hope.' In the forenoon of
+Saturday, February 24, the depôt was reached, and there they
+found the store in order except for a shortage of oil. 'Shall
+have to be very saving with fuel.'
+
+[Indeed from this time onward the party were increasingly in
+want of more oil than they found at the depôts. Owing partly to
+the severe conditions, but still more to the delays caused by
+their sick comrades, they reached the full limit of time allowed
+for between the depôts. The cold was unexpected, and at the same
+time the actual amount of oil found at the depôts was less than
+Scott anticipated.
+
+The return journey on the summit was made at good speed, for
+the party accomplished in 21 days what had taken them 27 days
+on the outward journey. But the last part of it, from Three Degree
+to Upper Glacier Depôt, took nearly eight marches as against ten,
+and here can be seen the first slight slackening as P.O. Evans
+and Oates began to feel the cold. From the Upper Glacier to the
+Lower Glacier Depôt there was little gain on the outward journey,
+partly owing to the conditions but more to Evans' gradual
+collapse. And from that time onward the marches of the weary but
+heroic travelers became shorter and shorter.
+
+As regards the cause of the shortage of oil, the tins at the
+depôts had been exposed to extreme conditions of heat and cold.
+The oil in the warmth of the sun--for the tins were regularly
+set in an accessible place on the top of the cairns--tended to
+become vapor and to escape through the stoppers without damage
+to the tins. This process was much hastened owing to the leather
+washers about the stoppers having perished in the great cold.
+
+The tins awaiting the Southern party at the depôts had, of course,
+been opened, so that the supporting parties on their way back
+could take their due amount. But however carefully the tins were
+re-stoppered, they were still liable to the unexpected evaporation
+and leakage, and hence, without the smallest doubt, arose the
+shortage which was such a desperate blow to Scott and his party.]
+
+Apart from the storage of fuel everything was found in order at
+the depôt, and with ten full days' provisions from the night
+of the 24th they had less than 70 miles between them and the
+Mid-Barrier depôt. At lunch-time Scott wrote in a more hopeful
+tone, 'It is an immense relief to have picked up this depôt,
+and, for the time, anxieties are thrust aside,' but at night,
+after pulling on a dreadful surface and only gaining four miles,
+he added, 'It really will be a bad business if we are to have
+this plodding all through. I don't know what to think, but the
+rapid closing of the season is ominous.... It is a race between
+the season and hard conditions and our fitness and good food.'
+
+Their prospects, however, became a little brighter during the
+following day, when the whole march yielded 11.4 miles, 'The
+first double figures of steady dragging for a long time.' But
+what they wanted and what would not come was a wind to help them
+on their way. Nevertheless, although the assistance they so sorely
+needed was still lacking, they gained another 11-1/2 miles on
+their next march, and were within 43 miles of their next depôt.
+Writing from 'R. 40. Temp. -21°' on Monday night, February 26,
+Scott said, 'Wonderfully fine weather but cold, very cold. Nothing
+dries and we get our feet cold too often. We want more food yet,
+and especially more fat. Fuel is woefully short. We can scarcely
+hope to get a better surface at this season, but I wish we could
+have some help from the wind, though it might shake us up badly
+if the temp. didn't rise.'
+
+Tuesday brought them within 31 miles of their depôt, but hunger
+was attacking them fiercely, and they could talk of little else
+except food and of when and where they might possibly meet the
+dogs. 'It is a critical position. We may find ourselves in safety
+at next depôt, but there is a horrid element of doubt.'
+
+On the next day Scott decided to increase the rations, and at
+R. 42, which they reached after a march of 11-1/2 miles in a
+blightingly cold wind, they had a 'splendid pony hoosh.' The
+temperatures, however, which varied at this time between -30°
+and -42°, were chilling them through and through, and to get
+their foot-gear on in the mornings was both a painful and a long
+task. 'Frightfully cold starting,' Scott wrote at lunch-time
+on Thursday, February 29, 'luckily Bowers and Oates in their
+last new finnesko; keeping my old ones for the present.... Next
+camp is our depôt and it is exactly 13 miles. It ought not to
+take more than 1-1/2 days; we pray for another fine one. The
+oil will just about spin out in that event, and we arrive a clear
+day's food in hand.'
+
+On reaching the Middle Barrier Depôt, however, blow followed
+blow in such quick succession that hope of pulling through began
+to sink in spite of all their cheerfulness and courage. First
+they found such a shortage of oil that with the most rigid economy
+it could scarcely carry them on to their next depôt, 71 miles
+away. Then Oates disclosed the fact that his feet, evidently
+frost-bitten by the recent low temperatures, were very bad indeed.
+And lastly the wind, which at first they had greeted with some
+joy, brought dark overcast weather. During the Friday night the
+temperature fell to below -40°, and on the next morning an hour
+and a half was spent before they could get on their foot-gear.
+'Then on an appalling surface they lost both cairns and tracks,
+and at lunch Scott had to admit that they were 'in a very queer
+street since there is no doubt we cannot do the extra marches
+and feel the cold horribly.'
+
+Afterwards they managed to pick up the track again, and with
+a march of nearly 10 miles for the day prospects brightened a
+little; but on the next morning they had to labor upon a surface
+that was coated with a thin layer of woolly crystals, which were
+too firmly fixed to be removed by the wind and caused impossible
+friction to the runners of the sledge. 'God help us,' Scott wrote
+at mid-day, 'we can't keep up this pulling, that is certain.
+Amongst ourselves we are unendingly cheerful, but what each man
+feels in his heart I can only guess. Putting on foot-gear in the
+morning is getting slower and slower, therefore every day more
+dangerous.'
+
+No relief whatever to the critical situation came on Monday,
+March 4, and there was in fact little left to hope for except
+a strong drying wind, which at that time of the year was not
+likely to come. At mid-day they were about 42 miles from the
+next depôt and had a week's food; but in spite of the utmost
+economy their oil could only last three or four days, and to
+pull as they were doing and be short of food at the same time
+was an absolute impossibility. For the time being the temperature
+had risen to -20°, but Scott was sure that this small improvement
+was only temporary and feared that Oates, at any rate, was in
+no state to weather more severe cold than they were enduring.
+And hanging over all the other misfortunes was the constant fear
+that if they did get to the next depôt they might find the same
+shortage of oil. 'I don't know what I should do if Wilson and
+Bowers weren't so determinedly cheerful over things.'
+
+And it must in all truth have been as difficult as it was heroic
+to be cheerful, for weary and worn as they were their food needed
+such careful husbanding, that their supper on this night (March
+4) consisted of nothing but a cup of cocoa and pemmican solid
+with the chill off. 'We pretend to prefer the pemmican this way,'
+Scott says, and if any proof was needed of their indomitable
+resolution it is contained in that short sentence. The result,
+however, was telling rapidly upon all of them, and more especially
+upon Oates, whose feet were in a terrible condition when they
+started to march on the morning of the 5th. Lunch-time saw them
+within 27 miles of their next supply of food and fuel, but by
+this time poor Oates was almost done.
+
+'It is pathetic enough because we can do nothing for him; more
+hot food might do a little, but only a little, I fear. We none
+of us expected these terribly low temperatures, and of the rest
+of us Wilson is feeling. them most; mainly, I fear, from his
+self-sacrificing devotion in doctoring Oates' feet. We cannot
+help each other, each has enough to do to take care of himself.
+We get cold on the march when the trudging is heavy, and the
+wind pierces our worn garments. The others, all of them, are
+unendingly cheerful when in the tent. We mean to see the game
+through with a proper spirit, but it's tough work to be pulling
+harder than we ever pulled in our lives for long hours, and to
+feel that the progress is so slow. One can only say "God help
+us!" and plod on our weary way, cold and very miserable, though
+outwardly cheerful. We talk of all sorts of subjects in the tent,
+not much of food now, since we decided to take the risk of running
+a full ration. We simply couldn't go hungry at this time.'
+
+On the morning of the 6th Oates was no longer able to pull, and
+the miles gained, when they camped for lunch after desperate
+work, were only three and a half, and the total distance for
+the day was short of seven miles. For Oates, indeed, the crisis
+was near at hand. 'He makes no complaint, but his spirits only
+come up in spurts now, and he grows more silent in the tent....
+If we were all fit I should have hopes of getting through, but
+the poor Soldier has become a terrible hindrance, though he does
+his utmost and suffers much I fear.' And at mid-day on the 7th,
+Scott added, 'A little worse I fear. One of Oates' feet very
+bad this morning; he is wonderfully brave. We still talk of what
+we will do together at home.'
+
+At this time they were 16 miles from their depôt, and if they
+found the looked-for amount of fuel and food there, and if the
+surface helped them, Scott hoped that they might get on to the
+Mt. Hooper Depôt, 72 miles farther, but not to One Ton Camp.
+'We hope against hope that the dogs have been to Mt. Hooper;
+then we might pull through.... We are only kept going by good
+food. No wind this morning till a chill northerly air came ahead.
+Sun bright and cairns showing up well. I should like to keep
+the track to the end.'
+
+Another fearful struggle took them by lunch-time on the 8th to
+within 8-1/2 miles of their next goal, but the time spent over
+foot-gear in the mornings was getting longer and longer. 'Have to
+wait in night footgear for nearly an hour before I start changing,
+and then am generally first to be ready. Wilson's feet giving
+trouble now, but this mainly because he gives so much help to
+others.... The great question is, what shall we find at the depôt?
+If the dogs have visited it we may get along a good distance, but
+if there is another short allowance of fuel, God help us indeed.
+We are in a very bad way, I fear, in any case.'
+
+On the following day they managed to struggle on to Mount Hooper
+Depôt. 'Cold comfort. Shortage on our allowance all round. I don't
+know that anyone is to blame. The dogs which would have been our
+salvation have evidently failed.'
+
+[For the last six days Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had been waiting
+with the dogs at One Ton Camp. Scott had dated his probable return
+to Hut Point anywhere between mid-March and early April, and
+calculating from the speed of the other return parties Atkinson
+expected him to reach One Ton Camp between March 3 and 10. There
+Cherry-Garrard met four days of blizzard, with the result that
+when the weather cleared he had little more than enough dog food
+to take the teams home. Under these circumstances only two possible
+courses were open to him, either to push south for one more march
+and back with imminent risk of missing Scott on the way, or to
+stay two days at the Camp where Scott was bound to come, if he
+came at all. Wisely he took the latter course and stayed at One
+Ton Camp until the utmost limit of time.]
+
+With the depôt reached and no relief to the situation gained,
+Scott was forced to admit that things were going 'steadily
+downhill,' but for the time being Oates' condition was by far the
+most absorbing trouble. 'Oates' foot worse,' he wrote on the 10th.
+'He has rare pluck and must know that he can never get through.
+He asked Wilson if he had a chance this morning, and of course Bill
+had to say he didn't know. In point of fact he has none. Apart
+from him, if he went under now, I doubt whether we could get
+through. With great care we might have a dog's chance, but no
+more.... Poor chap! it is too pathetic to watch him; one cannot
+but try to cheer him up.'
+
+On this same day a blizzard met them after they had marched for
+half an hour, and Scott seeing that not one of them could face
+such weather, pitched camp and stayed there until the following
+morning. Then they struggled on again with the sky so overcast
+that they could see nothing and consequently lost the tracks.
+At the most they gained little more than six miles during the
+day, and this they knew was as much as they could hope to do if
+they got no help from wind or surfaces. 'We have 7 days' food and
+should be about 55 miles from One Ton Camp to-night, 6 X 7 = 42,
+leaving us 13 miles short of our distance, even if things get
+no worse.'
+
+Oates too was, Scott felt, getting very near the end. 'What we or
+he will do, God only knows. We discussed the matter after breakfast;
+he is a brave fine fellow and understands the situation, but he
+practically asked for advice. Nothing could be said but to urge
+him to march as long as he could. One satisfactory result to the
+discussion: I practically ordered Wilson to hand over the means
+of ending our troubles to us, so that any of us may know how to
+do so. Wilson had no choice between doing so and our ransacking
+the medicine case.'
+
+Thus Scott wrote on the 11th, and the next days brought more and
+more misfortunes with them. A strong northerly wind stopped them
+altogether on the 13th, and although on the following morning they
+started with a favorable breeze, it soon shifted and blew through
+their wind-clothes and their mitts. 'Poor Wilson horribly cold,
+could not get off ski for some time. Bowers and I practically made
+camp, and when we got into the tent at last we were all deadly
+cold.... We must go on, but now the making of every camp must
+be more difficult and dangerous. It must be near the end, but a
+pretty merciful end.... I shudder to think what it will be like
+to-morrow.'
+
+Up to this time, incredible as it seems, Scott had only once
+spared himself the agony of writing in his journal, so nothing
+could be more pathetic and significant than the fact that at
+last he was unable any longer to keep a daily record of this
+magnificent journey.
+
+'Friday, March 16 or Saturday 17. Lost track of dates, but think
+the last correct,' his next entry begins, but then under the most
+unendurable conditions he went on to pay a last and imperishable
+tribute to his dead companion.
+
+'Tragedy all along the line. At lunch, the day before yesterday,
+poor Titus Oates said he couldn't go on; he proposed we should
+leave him in his sleeping-bag. That we could not do, and we induced
+him to come on, on the afternoon march. In spite of its awful
+nature for him he struggled on and we made a few miles. At night
+he was worse and we knew the end had come.
+
+'Should this be found I want these facts recorded. Oates' last
+thoughts were of his Mother, but immediately before he took pride
+in thinking that his regiment would be pleased with the bold
+way in which he met his death. We can testify to his bravery.
+He has borne intense suffering for weeks without complaint, and
+to the very last was able and willing to discuss outside subjects.
+He did not--would not--give up hope till the very end. He was a
+brave soul. This was the end. He slept through the night before
+last, hoping not to wake; but he woke in the morning--yesterday.
+It was blowing a blizzard. He said, "I am just going outside and
+may be some time." He went out into the blizzard and we have not
+seen him since.
+
+'I take this opportunity of saying that we have stuck to our sick
+companions to the last. In case of Edgar Evans, when absolutely
+out of food and he lay insensible, the safety of the remainder
+seemed to demand his abandonment, but Providence mercifully
+removed him at this critical moment. He died a natural death,
+and we did not leave him till two hours after his death.
+
+'We knew that poor Oates was walking to his death, but though
+we tried to dissuade him, we knew it was the act of a brave man
+and an English gentleman. We all hope to meet the end with a
+similar spirit, and assuredly the end is not far.
+
+'I can only write at lunch and then only occasionally. The cold
+is intense, -40° at mid-day. My companions are unendingly cheerful,
+but we are all on the verge of serious frost-bites, and though we
+constantly talk of fetching through I don't think anyone of us
+believes it in his heart.
+
+'We are cold on the march now, and at all times except meals.
+Yesterday we had to lay up for a blizzard and to-day we move
+dreadfully slowly. We are at No. 14 pony camp, only two pony
+marches from One Ton Depôt. We leave here our theodolite, a camera,
+and Oates' sleeping-bags. Diaries, etc., and geological specimens
+carried at Wilson's special request, will be found with us or
+on our sledge.'
+
+At mid-day on the next day, March 18, they had struggled to within
+21 miles of One Ton Depôt, but wind and drift came on and they had
+to stop their march. 'No human being could face it, and we are worn
+out nearly.
+
+'My right foot has gone, nearly all the toes--two days ago I
+was the proud possessor of best feet. These are the steps of my
+downfall. Like an ass I mixed a spoonful of curry powder with
+my melted pemmican--it gave me violent indigestion. I lay awake
+and in pain all night; woke and felt done on the march; foot
+went and I didn't know it. A very small measure of neglect and
+have a foot which is not pleasant to contemplate.
+
+'Bowers takes first place in condition, but there is not much
+to choose after all. The others are still confident of getting
+through--or pretend to be--I don't know! We have the last half
+fill of oil in our primus and a very small quantity of spirit--this
+alone between us and thirst.'
+
+On that night camp was made with the greatest difficulty, but
+after a supper of cold pemmican and biscuit and half a pannikin
+of cocoa, they were, contrary to their expectations, warm enough
+to get some sleep.
+
+Then came the closing stages of this glorious struggle against
+persistent misfortune.
+
+'March 19.--Lunch. To-day we started in the usual dragging manner.
+Sledge dreadfully heavy. We are 15-1/2 miles from the depôt and
+ought to get there in three days. What progress! We have two days'
+food but barely a day's fuel. All our feet are getting bad--Wilson's
+best, my right foot worst, left all right. There is no chance to
+nurse one's feet till we can get hot food into us. Amputation is
+the least I can hope for now, but will the trouble spread? That
+is the serious question. The weather doesn't give us a chance; the
+wind from N. to N. W. and -40 temp. to-day.
+
+[Illustration: Final entry of R. Scott's diary.]
+
+During the afternoon they drew 4-1/2 miles nearer to the One Ton
+Depôt, and there they made their last camp. Throughout Tuesday
+a severe blizzard held them prisoners, and on the 21st Scott
+wrote: 'To-day forlorn hope, Wilson and Bowers going to depôt
+for fuel.'
+
+But the blizzard continued without intermission. '22 and 23.
+Blizzard bad as ever--Wilson and Bowers unable to start--to-morrow
+last chance--no fuel and only one or two of food left--must be
+near the end. Have decided it shall be natural--we shall march
+for the depôt with or without our effects and die in our tracks.'
+
+'March 29.--Since the 21st we have had a continuous gale from
+W.S.W. and S.W. We had fuel to make two cups of tea apiece, and
+bare food for two days on the 20th. Every day we have been ready
+to start for our depôt 11 miles away, but outside the door of
+the tent it remains a scene of whirling drift. I do not think
+we can hope for any better things now. We shall stick it out to
+the end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot
+be far.
+
+'It seems a pity, but I do not think I can write more.
+
+                                   'R. SCOTT.
+
+'Last entry
+For God's sake look after our people.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+After Cherry-Garrard and Demetri had returned to Hut Point on
+March 16 without having seen any signs of the Polar party, Atkinson
+and Keohane made one more desperate effort to find them. When,
+however, this had been unsuccessful there was nothing more to
+be done until the winter was over.
+
+During this long and anxious time the leadership of the party
+devolved upon Atkinson, who under the most trying circumstances
+showed qualities that are beyond all praise. At the earliest
+possible moment (October 30) a large party started south. 'On
+the night of the 11th and morning of the 12th,' Atkinson says,
+'after we had marched 11 miles due south of One Ton, we found
+the tent. It was an object partially snowed up and looking like
+a cairn. Before it were the ski sticks and in front of them a
+bamboo which probably was the mast of the sledge...
+
+'Inside the tent were the bodies of Captain Scott, Doctor Wilson,
+and Lieutenant Bowers. They had pitched their tent well, and it
+had withstood all the blizzards of an exceptionally hard winter.'
+
+Wilson and Bowers were found in the attitude of sleep, their
+sleeping-bags closed over their heads as they would naturally
+close them.
+
+[Illustration: 'The Last Rest'. The grave of Capt. Scott, Dr.
+Wilson, and Lieut. Bowers.]
+
+Scott died later. He had thrown back the flaps of his sleeping-bag
+and opened his coat. The little wallet containing the three
+notebooks was under his shoulders and his arm flung across Wilson.
+
+Among their belongings were the 35 lbs. of most important geological
+specimens which had been collected on the moraines of the Beardmore
+Glacier. At Wilson's request they had clung on to these to the very
+end, though disaster stared them in the face.
+
+'When everything had been gathered up, we covered them with the
+outer tent and read the Burial Service. From this time until well
+into the next day we started to build a mighty cairn above them.'
+
+Upon the cairn a rough cross, made from two skis, was placed,
+and on either side were up-ended two sledges, fixed firmly in
+the snow. Between the eastern sledge and the cairn a bamboo was
+placed, containing a metal cylinder, and in this the following
+record was left:
+
+'November 12, 1912, Lat. 79 degrees, 50 mins. South. This cross
+and cairn are erected over the bodies of Captain Scott, C.V.O.,
+R.N., Doctor E. A. Wilson, M.B. B.C., Cantab., and Lieutenant
+H. R. Bowers, Royal Indian Marine--a slight token to perpetuate
+their successful and gallant attempt to reach the Pole. This
+they did on January 17, 1912, after the Norwegian Expedition
+had already done so. Inclement weather with lack of fuel was
+the cause of their death. Also to commemorate their two gallant
+comrades, Captain L. E. G. Oates of the Inniskilling Dragoons,
+who walked to his death in a blizzard to save his comrades about
+eighteen miles south of this position; also of Seaman Edgar Evans,
+who died at the foot of the Beardmore Glacier.
+
+'"The Lord gave and the Lord taketh away;
+blessed be the name of the Lord."'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+With the diaries in the tent were found the following letters:--
+
+
+To Mrs. E. A. Wilson
+
+My DEAR MRS. WILSON,
+
+If this letter reaches you Bill and I will have gone out together.
+We are very near it now and I should like you to know how splendid
+he was at the end--everlastingly cheerful and ready to sacrifice
+himself for others, never a word of blame to me for leading him
+into this mess. He is not suffering, luckily, at least only minor
+discomforts.
+
+His eyes have a comfortable blue look of hope and his mind is
+peaceful with the satisfaction of his faith in regarding himself
+as part of the great scheme of the Almighty. I can do no more to
+comfort you than to tell you that he died as he lived, a brave,
+true man--the best of comrades and staunchest of friends. My whole
+heart goes out to you in pity.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+To Mrs. Bowers
+
+My DEAR MRS. BOWERS,
+
+I am afraid this will reach you after one of the heaviest blows
+of your life.
+
+I write when we are very near the end of our journey, and I am
+finishing it in company with two gallant, noble gentlemen. One of
+these is your son. He had come be one of my closest and soundest
+friends, and I appreciate his wonderful upright nature, his ability
+and energy. As the troubles have thickened his dauntless spirit
+ever shone brighter and he has remained cheerful, hopeful, and
+indomitable to the end.
+
+The ways of Providence are inscrutable, but there must be some
+reason why such a young, vigorous and promising life is taken.
+
+My whole heart goes out in pity for you.
+
+  Yours,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+To the end he has talked of you and his sisters. One sees what
+a happy home he must have had and perhaps it is well to look
+back on nothing but happiness.
+
+He remains unselfish, self-reliant and splendidly hopeful to the
+end, believing in God's mercy to you.
+
+
+To Sir J. M. Barrie
+
+My DEAR BARRIE,
+
+We are pegging out in a very comfortless spot. Hoping this letter
+may be found and sent to you, I write a word of farewell....
+More practically I want you to help my widow and my boy--your
+godson. We are showing that Englishmen can still die with a bold
+spirit, fighting it out to the end. It will be known that we have
+accomplished our object in reaching the Pole, and that we have
+done everything possible, even to sacrificing ourselves in order to
+save sick companions. I think this makes an example for Englishmen
+of the future, and that the country ought to help those who are
+left behind to mourn us. I leave my poor girl and your godson,
+Wilson leaves a widow, and Edgar Evans also a widow in humble
+circumstances. Do what you can to get their claims recognized.
+Goodbye. I am not at all afraid of the end, but sad to miss many
+a humble pleasure which I had planned for the future on our long
+marches. I may not have proved a great explorer, but we have done
+the greatest march ever made and come very near to great success.
+Goodbye, my dear friend.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+We are in a desperate state, feet frozen, etc. No fuel and a long
+way from food, but it would do your heart good to be in our tent,
+to hear our songs and the cheery conversation as to what we will
+do when we get to Hut Point.
+
+Later.--We are very near the end, but have not and will not lose
+our good cheer. We have four days of storm in our tent and no
+where's food or fuel. We did intend to finish ourselves when
+things proved like this, but we have decided to die naturally
+in the track.
+
+As a dying man, my dear friend, be good to my wife and child.
+Give the boy a chance in life if the State won't do it. He ought
+to have good stuff in him.... I never met a man in my life whom
+I admired and loved more than you, but I never could show you
+how much your friendship meant to me, for you had much to give
+and I nothing.
+
+
+To the Right Hon. Sir Edgar Speyer, Bart.
+
+Dated March 16, 1912. Lat. 79.5°.
+
+My DEAR SIR EDGAR,
+
+I hope this may reach you. I fear we must go and that it leaves
+the Expedition in a bad muddle. But we have been to the Pole and
+we shall die like gentlemen. I regret only for the women we leave
+behind.
+
+I thank you a thousand times for your help and support and your
+generous kindness. If this diary is found it will show how we
+stuck by dying companions and fought the thing out well to the
+end. I think this will show that the spirit of pluck and the power
+to endure has not passed out of our race....
+
+Wilson, the best fellow that ever stepped, has sacrificed himself
+again and again to the sick men of the party....
+
+I write to many friends hoping the letters will reach them some
+time after we are found next year.
+
+We very nearly came through, and it's a pity to have missed it,
+but lately I have felt that we have overshot our mark. No one is
+to blame and I hope no attempt will be made to suggest that we
+have lacked support.
+
+Goodbye to you and your dear kind wife.
+
+  Yours ever sincerely,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+To Vice-Admiral Sir Francis Charles Bridgeman, K.C.V.O., K.C.B.
+
+My DEAR SIR FRANCIS,
+
+I fear we have slipped up; a close shave; I am writing a few
+letters which I hope will be delivered some day. I want to thank
+you for the friendship you gave me of late years, and to tell you
+how extraordinarily pleasant I found it to serve under you. I
+want to tell you that I was not too old for this job. It was the
+younger men that went under first.... After all we are setting a
+good example to our countrymen, if not by getting into a tight
+place, by facing it like men when we were there. We could have
+come through had we neglected the sick.
+
+Good-bye, and good-bye to dear Lady Bridgeman.
+
+  Yours ever,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+Excuse writing--it is -40°; and has been for nigh a month.
+
+
+To Vice-Admiral Sir George le Clerc Egerton, K.C.B.
+
+My DEAR SIR GEORGE,
+
+I fear we have shot our bolt--but we have been to Pole and done
+the longest journey on record.
+
+I hope these letters may find their destination some day.
+
+Subsidiary reasons for our failure to return are due to the sickness
+of different members of the party, but the real thing that has
+stopped us is the awful weather and unexpected cold towards the
+end of the journey.
+
+This traverse of the Barrier has been quite three times as severe
+as any experience we had on the summit.
+
+There is no accounting for it, but the result has thrown out my
+calculations, and here we are little more than 100 miles from the
+base and petering out.
+
+Good-bye. Please see my widow is looked after as far as Admiralty
+is concerned.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+My kindest regards to Lady Egerton. I can never forget all your
+kindness.
+
+
+To Mr. J. J. Kinsey-Christchurch.
+
+March 24th, 1912.
+
+My DEAR KINSEY,
+
+I'm afraid we are pretty well done--four days of blizzard just
+as we were getting to the last dopôt. My thoughts have been with
+you often. You have been a brick. You will pull the Expedition
+through, I'm sure.
+
+My thoughts are for my wife and boy. Will you do what you can
+for them if the country won't.
+
+I want the boy to have a good chance in the world, but you know
+the circumstances well enough.
+
+If I knew the wife and boy were in safe keeping I should have
+little to regret in leaving the world, for I feel that the country
+need not be ashamed of us--our journey has been the biggest on
+record, and nothing but the most exceptional hard luck at the
+end would have caused us to fail to return. We have been to the
+S. pole as we set out. God bless you and dear Mrs. Kinsey. It is
+good to remember you and your kindness.
+
+  Your friend,
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+Letters to his Mother, his Wife, his Brother-in-law (Sir William
+Ellison Macartney), Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, and Mr. and Mrs.
+Reginald Smith were also found, from which come the following
+extracts:
+
+The Great God has called me and I feel it will add a fearful blow
+to the heavy ones that have fallen on you in life. But take comfort
+in that I die at peace with the world and myself--not afraid.
+
+Indeed it has been most singularly unfortunate, for the risks
+I have taken never seemed excessive.
+
+...I want to tell you that we have missed getting through by a
+narrow margin which was justifiably within the risk of such a
+journey.... After all, we have given our lives for our country--we
+have actually made the longest journey on record, and we have been
+the first Englishmen at the South Pole.
+
+You must understand that it is too cold to write much.
+
+...It's a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every detail
+of equipment is right.
+
+I shall not have suffered any pain, but leave the world fresh
+from harness and full of good health and vigor. This is decided
+already--when provisions come to an end we simply stop unless
+we are within easy distance of another depôt. Therefore you must
+not imagine a great tragedy. We are very anxious of course, and
+have been for weeks, but our splendid physical condition and our
+appetites compensate for all discomfort.
+
+Since writing the above we got to within 11 miles of our depôt,
+with one hot meal and two days' cold food. We should have got
+through but have been held for four days by a frightful storm.
+I think the best chance has gone. We have decided not to kill
+ourselves, but to fight to the last for that depôt, but in the
+fighting there is a painless end. So don't worry. The inevitable
+must be faced. You urged me to be leader of this party, and I
+know you felt it would be dangerous.
+
+Make the boy interested in natural history if you can; it is
+better than games; they encourage it at some schools. I know
+you will keep him in the open air.
+
+Above all, he must guard and you must guard him against indolence.
+Make him a strenuous man. I had to force myself into being strenuous
+as you know--had always an inclination to be idle.
+
+There is a piece of the Union Jack I put up at the South Pole
+in my private kit bag, together with Amundsen's black flag and
+other trifles. Send a small piece of the Union Jack to the King
+and a small piece to Queen Alexandra.
+
+What lots and lots I could tell you of this journey. How much
+better has it been than lounging in too great comfort at home.
+What tales you would have for the boy. But what a price to pay.
+
+Tell Sir Clements I thought much of him and never regretted his
+putting me in command of the Discovery.
+
+
+
+
+MESSAGE TO THE PUBLIC
+
+The causes of the disaster are not due to faulty organization,
+but to misfortune in all risks which had to be undertaken.
+
+1. The loss of pony transport in March 1911 obliged me to start
+   later than I had intended, and obliged the limits of stuff
+   transported to be narrowed.
+
+2. The weather throughout the outward journey, and especially
+   the long gale in 83° S., stopped us.
+
+3. The soft snow in lower reaches of glacier again reduced pace.
+
+We fought these untoward events with a will and conquered, but
+it cut into our provision reserve.
+
+Every detail of our food supplies, clothing and depôts made on
+the interior ice-sheet and over that long stretch of 700 miles
+to the Pole and back, worked out to perfection. The advance party
+would have returned to the glacier in fine form and with surplus
+of food, but for the astonishing failure of the man whom we had
+least expected to fail. Edgar Evans was thought the strongest man
+of the party.
+
+The Beardmore Glacier is not difficult in fine weather, but on
+our return we did not get a single completely fine day; this
+with a sick companion enormously increased our anxieties.
+
+As I have said elsewhere we got into frightfully rough ice and
+Edgar Evans received a concussion of the brain--he died a natural
+death, but left us a shaken party with the season unduly advanced.
+
+But all the facts above enumerated were as nothing to the surprise
+which awaited us on the Barrier. I maintain that our arrangements
+for returning were quite adequate, and that no one in the world
+would have expected the temperatures and surfaces which we
+encountered at this time of the year. On the summit in lat. 85°,
+86° we had -20°, -30°. On the Barrier in lat. 82°, 10,000 feet
+lower, we had -30° in the day, -47° at night pretty regularly,
+with continuous head wind during our day marches. It is clear
+that these circumstances come on very suddenly, and our wreck
+is certainly due to this sudden advent of severe weather, which
+does not seem to have any satisfactory cause. I do not think
+human beings ever came through such a month as we have come through,
+and we should have got through in spite of the weather but for
+the sickening of a second companion, Captain Oates, and a shortage
+of fuel in our depôts for which I cannot account, and finally,
+but for the storm which has fallen on us within 11 miles of the
+depôt at which we hoped to secure our final supplies. Surely
+misfortune could scarcely have exceeded this last blow. We arrived
+within 11 miles of our old One Ton Camp with fuel for one last
+meal and food for two days. For four days we have been unable
+to leave the tent--the gale howling about us. We are weak, writing
+is difficult, but for my own sake I do not regret this journey,
+which has shown that Englishmen can endure hardships, help one
+another, and meet death with as great a fortitude as ever in the
+past. We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out
+against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but
+bow to the will of Providence, determined still to do our best
+to the last. But if we have been willing to give our lives to
+this enterprise, which is for the honor of our country, I appeal
+to our countrymen to see that those who depend on us are properly
+cared for.
+
+Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood,
+endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred
+the heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead
+bodies must tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country
+like ours will see that those who are dependent on us are properly
+provided for.
+
+    R. SCOTT.
+
+
+[Illustration: British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. Track chart
+of main southern journey.]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Abbott, George P., P.O.
+Adélie Land
+Admiralty, the
+Alaska
+Albemarle, H.M.S.
+Albert Medal, the
+Alexandra, Queen
+Alpine Rope
+Amphion, H.M.S.
+Amundsen, Roald
+Anton, Groom
+Archer, W. W., chief steward
+Armitage, Lieut. A. B.
+Arnold, M., quoted
+Arrival Bay
+  Heights
+Athletic sports
+Atkinson, Edward L., surgeon, R.N., parasitologist
+Auckland Islands
+Australia, Government of
+
+Balaclave helmets
+Balfour, Rt. Ron. A. J.
+Balleny, Capt. John;
+  Islands
+Balloons, ascents of
+Barne, Lieut. Michael
+  Glacier
+Barrie, Sir J. M., letter to
+Barrier, Great Ice
+Bay of Whales
+Beaumont, Admiral Sir Lewis
+Beppo, pony
+Berlin
+Bernacchi, Louis C., physicist
+Birdie, dog
+Birthday, celebrations of
+Biscay, Bay of
+Bismarck, dog
+Bjaaland, Olav Olavson
+Blanco, dog
+Blissett, A. H.
+Blizzard, The
+Blossom, pony
+Blucher, pony
+Bluff, The
+  Camp
+Boats, mishap to
+Bones, pony
+Bonner, Charles
+Borchgrevink
+Boss, dog
+Bowers, Lieut. H. R.
+Bowers, Mrs., letter to
+Bridgeman, Admiral, Sir F. C., letter to
+Britannia, The
+British Museum, the
+Brownie, dog
+Browning, E. B., quoted
+Browning, Frank V., P.O.
+Bruce, Canon Lloyd
+Bruce, Kathleen
+Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred M.
+Buckingham Palace Road
+Bulwark, H.M.S.
+Burlington House
+Butter Point
+
+Campbell, Lieut. Victor L. A.
+Cape Adare
+  Armitage
+  Bernacchi
+  Bird
+  Crozier
+  Crozier Party
+  Evans
+  Jones
+  Mackay
+  North
+  of Good Hope
+  Royds
+  Sibbald
+  Wadworth
+  Washington
+Cardiff
+Castle Rock
+Cheetham, Alfred B., boatswain
+Cherry-Garrard, Apsley, assistant zoologist
+Chinaman, pony
+Christiania
+Christopher, pony
+Clarke, Charles, ship's cook
+Clissold, Thomas, cook
+Coal
+Colbeck, Captain William
+Coleridge, quoted
+Colville, Rear-Admiral
+Commonwealth Range
+Cook, Capt. James
+Corner Camp
+Coulman Islands
+Crater Heights
+  Hill
+Crean, Thomas, P.O.
+Cross, Jacob, P.O.
+'Cruise of the Beagle,'
+Cuts, pony
+
+Dailey, F. E., carpenter
+Darwin, Charles
+Day, Bernard C., motor engineer
+Debenham, Frank, geologist
+Dellbridge, James H., 2nd engineer
+  Islets
+Demetri, dog driver
+Dennistoun, James R.
+Depôt Nunatak
+Desolation Camp, Discovery Expedition
+  Last Expedition
+Dickason, Harry, A.B.
+Discovery, the fifth
+Dog food
+Dogs
+Douglas, Sir Archibald
+Drake, Francis R. H., assistant paymaster
+Dundee
+  Shipbuilding Company
+
+East India Docks
+Edward VII, King
+Egerton, Admiral Sir George, K.C.B.; (letter to)
+Enderby Quadrant
+Entertainments
+Erebus Tongue
+Esquimault. B.C.
+Esquimaux
+Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R.
+Evans, P.O.
+
+Falkland Islands
+Feather, Thomas A., boatswain
+Fefer
+Ferrar, Hartley T.
+  Glacier
+Finance Committee
+Fire, alarm of
+Fisher, Admiral Sir John
+Fitzclarence, dog
+Football
+Forde, Robert, P.O.
+Fram, the
+Franklin Island
+Franz-Josef Land
+
+Gap, the
+Gateway, the
+Geological specimens
+Gerof, Demetri. See Demetri
+Glacier, the Beardmore
+Glacier Depôt
+  Tongue
+Gran Tryggve, ski expert
+Granite Harbor
+Grannie, dog
+Gus, dog
+
+Haakon, King
+Hackenschmidt, pony
+Half-Degree Depôt
+Hamilton, B. T.
+Hampton Court Palace
+Handsley. Jesse, A.B.
+Hanson
+Hanssen, Hilmer
+Hare
+Hassel, Sverre H.
+Heald, William L., A.B.
+Henley, W. E., quoted
+'Hints to Travelers'
+Hobart Town
+Hockey
+Hodgson, Thomas V.
+Hooper, F. J., steward
+Hoskins, Sir Anthony
+Hut, the Discovery
+  at Cape Evans
+  Point
+Hutton Rocks
+Huxley, quoted
+
+Icebergs
+Inaccessible Island
+
+Jackson-Harmsworth Expedition
+Jehu, pony
+Jim, dog
+Joe, dog
+
+Kennar, Thomas, P.O.
+Keohane, Patrick, P.O.
+Kid, dog
+King Edward's Island
+Kinsey, J. J., letter to
+Kipling, Rudyard, quoted
+Koettlitz, Reginald, surgeon and botanist
+
+Lantaret
+Lashly, William, leading stoker
+Lectures
+Levick, G. Murray, surgeon; R.N.
+Lewis, dog
+Lillehammer
+Lillie, Denis G., biologist
+London Docks
+Lower Glacier Depôt
+Lyttelton
+  Heads
+
+Macartney, Sir William Ellison
+Mackay, Captain Harry
+Macquarie Island
+Magnetic huts
+  Observatory
+Magnetism,
+Majestic, H.M.S.
+Markham, Sir Clements; (preface)
+Markham, Lady
+McMurdo Sound
+Meares, Cecil H., in charge of dogs
+Merchant Shipping Act
+Meridians
+Message to the public
+Meteorological observations
+  screens
+Michael, pony
+Middle Barrier Depôt
+Midwinter celebrations
+Milton, quoted
+Monument Rock
+Morning, the
+Motor sledges
+Mount Buckley
+  Cloudmaker
+  Darwin
+  Discovery
+  Erebus
+  Hooper Depôt
+  Hope
+  Longstaff
+  Markham
+  Melbourne
+  Monteagle
+  Murchison
+  Sabine
+  Terror
+  Whewell
+Mulock, Lieut. George F. A.
+
+Nansen, Dr.
+Naval Discipline Act
+Nell, dog
+Nelson, Edward W., biologist
+Newbolt, Henry, quoted
+New Harbor
+Newnes, Sir George
+New Zealand
+New Zealand, Government of
+Nigger, dog
+Nobby, pony
+Northern Party
+Norway
+Norwegians, the
+
+Oates, Capt. Lawrence, E.G.
+Outlands
+Observatory Hill
+Oil, shortage of
+'Old Mooney,'
+Omelchenko, Anton. See Anton
+One Ton Camp
+Osman, dog
+
+P. and O. Company
+Pack-ice
+Parry Mountains
+Peary, Lieutenant
+Penguins
+  Emperor
+  King
+Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L.
+Petrels
+  Antarctic
+  Giant
+  Southern Fulmar
+  White Snow
+  Wilson stormy
+Pigg, James, pony
+Plumley, Frank, stoker
+Pole, the South
+  Camp
+Ponies, the
+Ponting, Herbert G., camera artist
+Port Chalmers
+  Ross
+  Stanley
+Possession Islands
+Pram Point
+  Bay
+  Ridges
+President, H.M.S.
+Pressure Ridges
+Priestley, Raymond E., geologist
+Proverbs, quoted
+Punch, pony
+
+Quartley, Arthur L., leading stoker
+
+Razor Back Islands
+Rennick, Lieut. Henry E. de P.
+Roberston Bay
+Rodd, Sir Rennell, quoted
+Ross, Sir James
+Ross Harbor
+  Island
+  Quadrant
+  Sea
+Rover, H.M.S.
+Royal Geographical Society
+Royal Society
+Royds, Lieut. Charles W. R.
+Russell Islands
+
+Safety Camp
+San Francisco
+Sawing-camp
+Saxon, S.S.
+Scamp, dog
+Scott, John Edward
+Scott, Lady, extracts from letters to; et passim
+Scott, Mrs., extract from letter to
+Scott of Brownhead
+Scott, Peter Markham
+Scurvy
+Sea leopard
+  elephant
+Seals
+  crab-eater
+  Ross
+Shackleton, Sir Ernest H.
+Shackleton's hut
+Shakespeare, quoted
+Shambles Camp
+Shelley, quoted
+Ship Committee
+Simon's Bay
+Simpson. George C., Meteorologist
+Skelton, Lieut. Reginald W.
+Ski
+Ski-shoes
+Skua gulls
+Skuary, the
+Sledge equipment
+Sledges
+Sleeping-bags
+Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Reginald
+Smith's Inlet
+Snatcher, dog
+  pony
+Snippets, pony
+Snow-shoes, for ponies
+South Africa, Government of
+Southern Barrier Depôt
+  Road, the
+South Polar Times, Discovery Expedition
+  Last Expedition
+Spenser, quoted
+Speyer, Sir Edgar, letter to,
+Spud, dog
+Stareek, dog
+Stoke Damerel
+Stripes, dog
+Stubbington House, Fareham
+Sturge Island
+Sun, eclipse of
+Sverdrup's 'New Land'
+
+Taylor, T. Griffith, geologist
+Telephone, the
+Tent, double
+Tent, Island
+  Islet
+Terra Nova, Discovery Expedition
+  Last Expedition
+Thermometer, minimum
+Thomson, Sir Courtauld
+Three Degree Depôt
+Transport
+Turtle Back Island
+
+Uncle Bill, pony
+Uniform overcoat
+Union Jack, the
+Upper Glacier Depôt
+
+Vic, dog
+Victor, pony
+Victoria, B.C.
+  Land
+  Quadrant
+Victorious, H.M.S.
+Vince, A. B.
+
+Weary Willy, pony
+Weddell Quadrant
+Weller, William J., A.B.
+Western Geological Party (1); (2)
+Western Mountains
+Whales, killer
+White Island
+Wild, Frank
+Wilkes, Commodore
+Wilkes Land
+
+Williams, William, engineer
+Williamson, Thomas S., P.O.
+Wilson, Dr. E. A., chief, the scientific staff (Last Expedition),
+   zoologist
+Wilson, Mrs., letter to
+Winter Quarter Bay
+Wisting, Oscar
+Wolf, dog
+Wolseley Motor Company
+Wood Bay
+Wright, Charles S., physicist
+
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN SCOTT ***
+
+This file should be named vscot10.txt or vscot10.zip
+Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, vscot11.txt
+VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, vscot10a.txt
+
+Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we usually do not
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance
+of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing.
+Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections,
+even years after the official publication date.
+
+Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til
+midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement.
+The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at
+Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month.  A
+preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment
+and editing by those who wish to do so.
+
+Most people start at our Web sites at:
+http://gutenberg.net or
+http://promo.net/pg
+
+These Web sites include award-winning information about Project
+Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new
+eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!).
+
+
+Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement
+can get to them as follows, and just download by date.  This is
+also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the
+indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an
+announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter.
+
+http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext04 or
+ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext04
+
+Or /etext03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90
+
+Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want,
+as it appears in our Newsletters.
+
+
+Information about Project Gutenberg (one page)
+
+We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work.  The
+time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours
+to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright
+searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc.   Our
+projected audience is one hundred million readers.  If the value
+per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2
+million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text
+files per month:  1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+
+We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002
+If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total
+will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end.
+
+The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks!
+This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers,
+which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users.
+
+Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated):
+
+eBooks Year Month
+
+    1  1971 July
+   10  1991 January
+  100  1994 January
+ 1000  1997 August
+ 1500  1998 October
+ 2000  1999 December
+ 2500  2000 December
+ 3000  2001 November
+ 4000  2001 October/November
+ 6000  2002 December*
+ 9000  2003 November*
+10000  2004 January*
+
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created
+to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium.
+
+We need your donations more than ever!
+
+As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people
+and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut,
+Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois,
+Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts,
+Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New
+Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio,
+Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South
+Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West
+Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming.
+
+We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones
+that have responded.
+
+As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list
+will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states.
+Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state.
+
+In answer to various questions we have received on this:
+
+We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally
+request donations in all 50 states.  If your state is not listed and
+you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have,
+just ask.
+
+While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are
+not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting
+donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to
+donate.
+
+International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about
+how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made
+deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are
+ways.
+
+Donations by check or money order may be sent to:
+
+Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+PMB 113
+1739 University Ave.
+Oxford, MS 38655-4109
+
+Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment
+method other than by check or money order.
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by
+the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN
+[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154.  Donations are
+tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law.  As fund-raising
+requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be
+made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states.
+
+We need your donations more than ever!
+
+You can get up to date donation information online at:
+
+http://www.gutenberg.net/donation.html
+
+
+***
+
+If you can't reach Project Gutenberg,
+you can always email directly to:
+
+Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com>
+
+Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message.
+
+We would prefer to send you information by email.
+
+
+**The Legal Small Print**
+
+
+(Three Pages)
+
+***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START***
+Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers.
+They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with
+your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from
+someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our
+fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement
+disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how
+you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to.
+
+*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK
+By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm
+eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept
+this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive
+a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by
+sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person
+you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical
+medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request.
+
+ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS
+This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks,
+is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart
+through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project").
+Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright
+on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and
+distribute it in the United States without permission and
+without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth
+below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook
+under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark.
+
+Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market
+any commercial products without permission.
+
+To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable
+efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain
+works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any
+medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other
+things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other
+intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged
+disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer
+codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment.
+
+LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES
+But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below,
+[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may
+receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims
+all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including
+legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR
+UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT,
+INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE
+OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE
+POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES.
+
+If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of
+receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any)
+you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that
+time to the person you received it from. If you received it
+on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and
+such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement
+copy. If you received it electronically, such person may
+choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to
+receive it electronically.
+
+THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS
+TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT
+LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A
+PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
+
+Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or
+the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the
+above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you
+may have other legal rights.
+
+INDEMNITY
+You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation,
+and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated
+with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm
+texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including
+legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the
+following that you do or cause:  [1] distribution of this eBook,
+[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook,
+or [3] any Defect.
+
+DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm"
+You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by
+disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this
+"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg,
+or:
+
+[1]  Only give exact copies of it.  Among other things, this
+     requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the
+     eBook or this "small print!" statement.  You may however,
+     if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable
+     binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form,
+     including any form resulting from conversion by word
+     processing or hypertext software, but only so long as
+     *EITHER*:
+
+     [*]  The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and
+          does *not* contain characters other than those
+          intended by the author of the work, although tilde
+          (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may
+          be used to convey punctuation intended by the
+          author, and additional characters may be used to
+          indicate hypertext links; OR
+
+     [*]  The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at
+          no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent
+          form by the program that displays the eBook (as is
+          the case, for instance, with most word processors);
+          OR
+
+     [*]  You provide, or agree to also provide on request at
+          no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the
+          eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC
+          or other equivalent proprietary form).
+
+[2]  Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this
+     "Small Print!" statement.
+
+[3]  Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the
+     gross profits you derive calculated using the method you
+     already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  If you
+     don't derive profits, no royalty is due.  Royalties are
+     payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation"
+     the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were
+     legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent
+     periodic) tax return.  Please contact us beforehand to
+     let us know your plans and to work out the details.
+
+WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO?
+Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of
+public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed
+in machine readable form.
+
+The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time,
+public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses.
+Money should be paid to the:
+"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or
+software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at:
+hart@pobox.com
+
+[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only
+when distributed free of all fees.  Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by
+Michael S. Hart.  Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be
+used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be
+they hardware or software or any other related product without
+express permission.]
+
+*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END*
+
diff --git a/old/vscot10.zip b/old/vscot10.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ecf1c89
--- /dev/null
+++ b/old/vscot10.zip