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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/6747.txt b/6747.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2c25f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/6747.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1966 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Log of the Empire State, by Geneve L.A. Shaffer + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The Log of the Empire State + +Author: Geneve L.A. Shaffer + +Release Date: October, 2004 [EBook #6747] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on January 20, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE LOG OF THE EMPIRE STATE *** + + + + +This eBook was produced by David Schwan <davidsch@earthlink.net>. + + + + +The Log of the Empire State +by Geneve L. A. Shaffer + + + + +Dedicated to My Mother and Your Mother + + + +To My Mother + +Your little hands are folded, + Your tired breast is still. +But your valiant heart beats on and on, + And so forever will. +In the lives of those who knew you, +Each gentle beat will bring + An echo sweet and tender, +To linger there and sing. + +By C. T. S. + + + +The Log of the Empire State + + + +Introduction + + + +As Miss Shaffer was appointed the special representative of the San +Francisco Examiner on the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce, Commercial +Relationship Tour of the Orient, as well as being a member of the San +Francisco Chamber of Commerce, she was requested to write this little +book covering the three months' trip, and she wishes to thank all the +members of the party for their kindly interest and cooperation in +helping her secure much of the information contained herein. + + + +Chapter I + + + +Before we had reached the Golden Gate we acted like some great happy +family, eager to enjoy every minute. After we stopped waving our tired +arms to the crowds of friends on the docks and the last bouquet aimed at +the Mayor's tug had landed in the bay, small groups, with radiant faces, +discussed what do you suppose? No, not the crossing of the Bar, but the +opening of the ship's bar. As you know, Uncle Sam seems to consider the +dry law impossible on the water. + +We were all saying that San Francisco's farewell made us proud to belong +to such a city, when M. A. Gale told us that he wanted to add a word of +praise for one of San Francisco's traffic officers, who let him by when +he made a speedy trip for some valuables left behind, which had just +been missed at the last moment. But, do you remember who was the last +passenger? She was nervous and fidgety ever since she came on board, +too. None other than Bulah, the handsome mare bound for Yokohama. It was +worth going through the steerage to watch her enjoy one of our "eleven +o'clock" apples. + +When the lunch gong sounded, we all went below (doesn't that sound real +nautical?) to try and get settled in our home for the next three months. +Apparently there was no place left for even our hats, thoughtful gifts, +fruits, candy and flowers, filled every inch of ordinary space. +Christmas time was tame by comparison. + +Many were down to lunch, fortified by a highball, but at dinner, mal de +mer had claimed its victims, and there were only a few brave spirits on +deck to indulge in dancing the first night. + +The second day out everybody was trying to remember everyone else by +name. One positive lady insisted that A. I. Esberg was Dr. Morton, but +little mistakes were forgotten, and many of the committee were soon +calling each other by their first names. + +While most of us were getting comfortably settled in our deck chairs, +someone noticed that Louis Glass, George Vranizan, C. W. Hinchcliffe, +Carl Westerfeld, C. A. Thayer, C. H. James, William Symon, F. S. +Ballinger, P. H. Lyon, S. L. Schwartz and Henry Mattlage had disappeared +below. And it is said by one who trailed them to their lair, that the +Fantan and Pie-gow games, going on in the steerage, were the magnet. + +There were other discoveries in the steerage. A Servian girl, Alma +Karlin, who speaks ten languages fluently, but could not afford a +first-class passage (although once well-to-do) on account of the low +exchange value of her country's money. She is on a three-year tour to +study conditions in the Pacific Islands, to learn if her countrymen can +successfully immigrate to this region. + +A young American married to a Chinaman, a group of Orientals devouring +an odd-looking concoction with chop sticks, a motley group of Hindus +with their fezzes, made the picturesque gathering, that gladly received +the surplus fruits distributed by the belles of the ship. + +We struck a squall that surprised many of us enjoying the salt sea +breeze in our stuffy state rooms, by washing the spray over our neatly +put-out dinner clothes. That night it took real sea legs to dance while +the ship rocked. But it was great sport, and Sidney Kahn's University +Orchestra "jazzed" on as if they were on solid ground. + +The third day all of the officers appeared in white. White duck curtains +replaced the wooden doors. The women blossomed out in the daintiest of +summer frocks, the men in white flannels, and although most of us found +our shoes difficult to put on (in spite of the fact that we all had +shoes a half a size larger) deck games were in full swing and sea +sickness was a thing of the past. + +Commissioner Krull was the first to jump into the open-air swimming +tank, some of the ladies following. But it took deck tennis and the +tropics to make the tank popular. + +Captain Nelson took us on a tour of inspection, and as eating was the +principal occupation, we asked to see the electrically operated galley +first, for, next to the bar, it was the chief attraction. We all have +heard of electric dish washers, potato peelers, knife sharpeners, bread +bakers, cake mixers, etc., but what a guarantee for matrimonial bliss +there would be if every young bride could be as sure as this ship was to +please the most particular of husbands. How? By using an automatic, +electric egg boiler that can be set for any time, and when the desired +number of minutes is reached, presto! up comes the egg out of the +boiling water! Not a second overdone, or underdone. In China some of us +were given, as a great delicacy, a "twenty-year-old egg" and toward the +end of the trip many of us had lost interest in all eggs, no matter how +cooked. + +The stoves burn oil, and although the day was hot, and the noon meal was +in preparation, there was no excessive heat and no fumes. The white-clad +Chinese waiters did their appointed tasks with the smoothness and lack +of confusion of clockwork. + +Our smiling waiters greeted us every morning in long blue kimonos. Ours +answered to the name of Arling, and after one had ordered an abnormal +breakfast, he suggested that the griddle cakes were "veery goo-wd." +Everyone ate more than they ever thought they could, and when at eleven +o'clock, the deck boy came along with broth, few there were that had the +courage to say, "No." The tang of the sea caused groups to invade the +charming tea-room, with its yellow curtains and painted wicker +furniture, at tiffin time. And if chicken, a-la-King, was served after +the nightly dancing party, - well, everyone said, "We don't make a trip +like this every day, so, why not?" + +There was a weighing machine on the lower deck, but, we all believed +that it must have been out of order. If we had not gained any more +pounds than we had spent for oriental souvenirs, we would have been +lucky. + +Some of the older members of the party welcomed the Sunday evening +movies instead of the strenuous dancing, but we were all glad to go to +bed after the movie villain had been killed. + + + +Chapter II + + + +The servants were so attentive and the beds so soft that many of the +ladies fell into the custom of having breakfast in the staterooms. + +After lunch one sunny day we mounted the steep little stairs to the +captain's quarters. His spacious combination living and bedroom with +private bath was a miracle to those of us who had to have the room boy +move the luggage in order to have space enough to open the quaint little +bureau drawers. On his center table was one of those strange dwarf +Japanese trees, that are not permitted to be imported. These odd plants +seem to thrive in spite of their diet of whiskey and the binding of +their branches with tiny wires - perhaps, if they must be fed +exclusively on whiskey, there is another reason besides the possibility +of their bringing into our country a foreign insect that excludes them. + +We were told that the captain's and officers' quarters were certified +and not counted when the capacity of the ship was figured, so the ship +seemed bigger than ever to us. Next we invaded the chart room, saw the +device that tells the whereabouts of a coming typhoon, listened to the +telephonic arrangement that proclaims the proximity of the buoy bells, +watched the little indicator that makes a red line depicting the exact +course of the ship on a circular chart, tried out the fire alarm system +that instantly rings a bell if a high temperature is registered any +place on the ship, from the bridal suite to the darkest corner of the +hold. We set the fog whistle to blow at regular intervals. We were told +that the searchlight could enable the pilot to discover objects about +five miles out, and by the time the gyro compass and numerous other +devices had been explained to us, we were ready to believe that the ship +cost seven million dollars, and that five thousand dollars was the daily +operating expense (two thousand dollars of which was spent for the one +thousand gallons of oil). + +The mock trial was one of the features of the trip. Nearly everyone was +arrested, sentenced or fined. Mrs. F. Panter's and Captain Ruben +Robinson's trials were the most sensational. In spite of Carl +Westerfeld's efforts to save Captain Robinson from being convicted of +fox trotting with a certain charming widow, he was heavily sentenced. +Louis C. Brown was released upon the hearing of the eloquent pleadings +of his attorney, Louis H. Mooser. At the close of the session, +Commissioner Francis Krull imposed a fine upon himself for his merciful +tendencies as the judge. + +When a crowd of us piled into the wireless room and asked the whys and +wherefores, the poor operator gave up trying to explain why the messages +were all sent at night, and settled the matter by telling us that the +atmospheric conditions were better then, and that the ship was equipped +with two systems, the spark and the arc, but that the arc was given the +preference. The Empire State kept its apparatus tuned to the one at +Sloat Boulevard, so if any of those at home missed us, just all they had +to do was to drive past that station any night, and, perhaps, at that +very moment, a message was being received from us. + +When we saw land, the women immediately planned a meeting to discuss +what to wear and do when we arrived in Honolulu on the following day. A. +I. Esberg gave an address the evening before on the meaning of our +Commercial Relationship tour and the good-will that he believed San +Francisco would establish by this mission. Afterward we danced, then +followed a Chinese supper. Yes, we were eating again. + +No alarm clock that was ever invented smote the ears with greater +animosity than did the ship's gong at 6:30 the morning we arrived at +Honolulu. If it had not been for the fact that the committee was there +(just outside our portholes, in yachts loaded with leis to welcome us) +it would have taken even more than that disturber of the peace to arouse +us, for sleep seemed the most desired thing after the Chinese dinner +dance that had lasted until the wee hours. + +We were all at the luncheon given to us by the Honolulu Commercial Club. +Faxton Bishop told us of the seriousness of the labor situation and +asked our aid. We all remember how eloquently our much lamented +spokesman, A. F. Morrison, answered the address and said that +California's prosperity depended in many ways upon Hawaiian prosperity +and their problems were our problems. + +Wallace R. Farrington, Governor of the Territory of Hawaii, said that +the labor situation must be solved to insure the prosperity of the +islands. + +We were next whizzed to the Outrigger Club, and if everyone had seen how +hard Warren Shannon paddled to reach the crest of a wave before it +broke, they would all be convinced that he was the hardest working +supervisor we have. + +John H. Wilson, the mayor of Honolulu, motored our party around the +island and gave us a luncheon at a hotel near one of the beaches. We +will remember this day as one of our happiest. + + + +Chapter III + + + +The first day out of Honolulu we were all discussing our impressions. +Most of us had passed the Honolulu schools at recess time and had noted +only one or two white-skinned children. It was, as Dr. A. W. Morton +expressed it, "Looks like a little Japan." Of course, everyone knows of +the vividness and great variety of the coloring of the foliage in sharp +contrast to the brilliant pink soil, but we could not stop talking about +it. Some of us noted the beauty of a little plant, which at home we +carefully water and cherish in some tiny pot, only to learn that on the +Island it grows in such abundance that it is considered nearly as great +a pest as the Mediterranean fly - so it would seem that beauty in the +vegetable kingdom does not always mean desirability, any more than it +does in the human family. + +Many of us had been taken over the sugar-cane plantations, seen the +young plants pushing through the paper (put over them to keep out the +weeds), gone through the refineries, seeing the cane stalks ground in +the huge rollers and had been allowed to taste the sickeningly sweet +molasses. Along the roads were Hawaiian huts with octopi drying on the +porches, beside the reclining figures of the strong providers of the +family, resting up, no doubt, from the task of catching and killing the +octopi by hitting the squid's heads. + +Some of the party waxed eloquent about the wonderful leprosy cures, +recently accomplished in the Islands, through the discoveries of the +chemist Dr. Dean, who took the chalmoogra oil used in India over a +thousand years ago as a cure (but according to tradition, the sufferers +considered the cure worse than the disease) and made it possible to +take. + +Some of us stopped to investigate the powerful wireless station with the +instruments capable of receiving messages at a distance of 5000 miles. +Still others told of the island at the Pearl Harbor Naval station being +purchased for ten thousand dollars and then being sold to our government +for 400,000 dollars. + +Many had not only received the leis, but a new native name as well, for, +as you know, it is the Hawaiian way of labeling everyone with some name +that to the Islander expresses their predominant characteristic. + +We were gazing at the magnificent sunset, when someone who seemed to +have inside information, repeated the old adage, "A red sky at night is +the sailor's delight, but if followed by a red sky in the morning, it's +the sailor's warning." We had all found the tranquil waters of the +Pacific so refreshing after the rush and excitement of Honolulu +sightseeing, and did not know that the worst storm the Empire State had +experienced was before us. + +Most of us rolled out of bed the next morning, and the only reason some +of us did not fall to the floor was because the bureaus stopped us half +way, with many a resounding thud. Many of the party did not attempt to +get up or out of the staterooms. Will we ever forget the dining tables +equipped with metal railings, divided into sections to hold in the +dishes? Even then, the eggs and cream rolled over the cloth or into our +unreceptive laps, and the way the waiters moistened the cloth in the +spots where they set the water glasses in an attempt to make them stay +put. But they would not any more than our tummies would "stay put." + +We then appreciated the necessity of the railings all over the ship, +especially when we commenced to hit each side of the passage way in +trying to step forward. Edward C. Wagner was jestingly remarking to +Louis Glass that if he should fall, there would be broken "Glass." It +was but a short while afterward when an unexpected lurch of the ship +threw him to the deck, breaking his glasses. + +We all remember that the deck chairs had an unpleasant way of sliding +until they hit the opposite wall, bouncing out the sea-sick occupants. +Even in getting out of the chairs (tied to the railings) many of us +fell. The upper deck looked like the ward of an emergency hospital. Mrs. +A. F. Morrison had fallen, breaking a bone in her wrist, Mrs. E. +Dinkelspiel had her head injured, Louis Glass had a bandage over his cut +face, and scarcely anyone escaped without black and blue marks. + +To see one of our capitalists being led weakly by a strong attendant, +while grasping his mal de mer tin firmly, was a sight unnoticed, in the +tumult of rushing waves. Of course, all portholes were closed, two of +the crew narrowly escaped being washed overboard. Their spotless uniform +of white had long since been discarded for rain coats and high boots. +Some of us slept out on deck rather than negotiate the treacherous +stairs to the uncertain joys of a stateroom in which the trunks had to +be lashed to the walls to avoid painful contact (you see, many of us had +the vivid recollection of the crashes that woke us). In most cases the +dainty bureau scarfs upon which reposed the Cologne bottle, mirror, +powder, hairpins, etc., etc., had dashed into one conglomerate, broken +mass on the floor. + +M. A. Gale and Warren Shannon (usually the life of the party) were seen +in dejected heaps, with only half-closed eyes visible above the steamer +robes. + +Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher gathered about the piano those well enough to be +about (after the storm had been raging for two days and nights), playing +old-fashioned songs, to try to raise the drooping spirits. + +Chanticleer never greeted the morning with gayer spirits than this +party, when we saw the clouds had rolled away, and when someone +repeated, "On the road to Mandilay, where the flying fishes play" (while +we watched the flying fishes play), all the old familiar quotations took +on a new significance of realty. + + + +Chapter IV + + + +On October 10, Dorothy Gee, the Chinese girl banker of San Francisco, +presided over the ceremony celebrating the tenth anniversary of the +Chinese independence Day, held in the steerage. Besides giving a clever +address, she acted as interpreter for the speeches delivered by F. R. +Eldridge, chief of the Far Eastern Division for the Bureau of Foreign +and Domestic Commerce, A. F. Morrison and A. I. Esberg. + +Many of us felt a great curiosity to see the engine that had pushed us +through the storm, so we descended countless iron stairs, down to the +very bottom of the ship; above us towered a bewildering assortment of +ladders, levers, pipes and valves. The heat was over-powering, so we +rushed to the ventilator and cooled off quickly. The deafening noise +prevented us from hearing all the engineer's explanations. Next we were +taken singly (as the space between the two massive doors will not permit +of more) through the two massive doors separating the boilers from the +rest of the ship. In case of an accident all the doors of the ship, +including these, could be automatically closed from the deck, dividing +the ship into three compartments. + +We saw how the thirty-seven cakes of ice, consumed daily, were made, +inspected the laundry and peeked in where the precious, rapidly +diminishing liquors were stored, and we all felt satisfied that we knew +"What made the wheels go around." + +With the regular meetings of the Executive committee, with Herbert +Hoover's Trade Investigation committee (consisting of Lansing Hoyt, C. +J. Mayer, Gordon Enders, E. Kehich, Paul Steindorff and headed by F. R. +Eldridge), mingling with the party to assist in establishing friendly +commercial relationship; with all those identified with certain +businesses and professions divided into groups, and even with the women +organized, we felt ready to meet any Oriental dignitaries, or +delegations. + +We remember well how often Warren Shannon, with his unfailing humor, +sent us into gales of laughter, auctioning off the numbers that +represented the possible run of the ship on the following day. Louis +Mooser bid the first one hundred dollars on the number that won the +pool. C. H. Matlage, William Muir, F. H. Speich, Louis Brown, Mrs. S. +Schwartz and Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher were also heavy bidders. + +Everyone started borrowing clothes from everyone else, right after +breakfast, the day of the masquerade. P. J. Lyon made a very gay girl, +C. R. Reed went as Woodrow Wilson, A. I. Esberg as a Chinese, C. B. +Lastrete as a bandit, Margarete Rice as Cleopatra, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes as +a beautiful Spanish senorita, Constant Meese, W. Levintritt, F. W. Boole +and C. H. Matlage as "Four Dainty Kewpies," Edward C. Wagner as an +oiler, and Carl Westerfeld was a regular devil. + +Of course, Mrs. A. Gee, Mrs. A. B. Luther, Mrs. Washburn, Mrs. Wheeler, +Mrs. Boole, Mrs. Wood, Mrs. Shannon and Mrs. Grady looked charming, as +usual. The Misses Bridge, Miss Kinslow, Miss Neff and Miss Bell also +looked attractive. Dr. Gates, Dr. Judell, Miss Simon, Mrs. Rothenberg, +Mrs. Denson, Mrs. Dunn, Mrs. Yates, the Misses Hunter, Mrs. Barnard, +Miss James, Mrs. Ross, A. W. Morton, Jr., and Mrs. Krull went to such a +lot of trouble to get up their interesting costumes. Henry S. Bridge +had, "a fine make-up" and looked like a real Southern Negro. Pretty Miss +Howlett and Miss Wood always made one think of the posters of "Sweet +Sixteen." + +Warren Shannon's Entertainment committee, assisted by Miss Moore, Miss +Craig, Mrs. Bercovich and Mrs. Panter, certainly discovered the talent +on board and we will always be grateful for the sweet singing of +charming Mrs. Gale, Mrs. Brown, Mrs. Schwartz and Miss Reed and the +playing of Miss Moore, Mrs. Alexander and of our talented "Mary." + +If anyone felt a bit out of sorts all they had to do was to think of the +courage and sweet, uncomplaining manner of Mrs. Morrison or what good +sailors Mrs. Anna R. Luther and Miss Louise Elliott were trying to be. + +- + +Columbus never strained his eyes more eagerly to see land than the San +Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives did, when someone said +that the dim outline of Fujiyama might be visible above the hazy shore +that looked as much like clouds as land. + +All the men of the party were so busy with their field glasses, admiring +Yokohoma Harbor's wonderful fortifications, that they did not even hear +the women question what sort of a dress would be suitable for the coming +grand reception, and yet, at the same time withstand sight-seeing in the +dust of the streets. Even Mary Garden on her opening night did not +receive such rapt attention as did this harbor. + +As we looked down over the huge side of the Empire State upon the +turmoil of humanity, baggage and freight and the uneven street beyond, +we gave thanks to the Baptist missionary, who is credited with making an +old baby carriage into the first rickshaw, for the convenience of his +sick wife. When we saw the little brown men actually run away with our +most corpulent representatives, without any apparent effort, we forgot +all about "Man's inhumanity to man" and no baby ever enjoyed its first +perambulator outing more than our party. + +First, we swooped down upon the banks to change our money, but the yen +and sen counted out to us seemed as valueless as stage money. However, +we grew to respect it, after visiting Benton Dori and departing with +elaborate kimonos that the shrewd businessmen and women of the party +would have passed by as being too expensive, at home. + +It was great fun after being extravagant to figure out that a yen is +only a little over half as much as one of our dollars and that one had +only spent half as much as one thought. + +Our party met the ladies (some of them American college graduates) and +gentlemen of the Yokohama Chamber of Commerce at a big reception in a +theatre. The governor, through his interpreter, said that our arrival +was on the first sunny day they had had in some time, that the +chrysanthemums were just blooming, and that this was a good omen, for +the war clouds had vanished. Geisha girls danced while singing a +specially composed chant of welcome, and an elaborate luncheon was +served in an adjoining hall. A. I. Esberg and F. R. Eldridge answered +the welcome saying, "That we hoped to establish much more friendly and +permanent relationship with the people of Japan." + +Most of the party had the inevitable tea in the foreign settlement, +known as the Bluff. Most of these houses are of the vintage of fifty +years ago and range in rental from $125 to $150, unfurnished, the tenant +having to install his own plumbing if he wishes such a luxury. We wanted +to know why some better arrangement was not made and were reminded of +the law that does not permit of any foreign ownership of land. + +Louis Mooser, former head of the San Francisco Real Estate Board, was +much interested in the situation. It seems that about one-seventh of the +small area available for foreigners was under perpetual lease to the +Germans and we were told that when war broke out it was taken over by +the Japanese, who only allowed their own race to buy, and all rents were +immediately raised. + +It was said that instead of complaining about how little land Japan was +allowed in the United States, it would be fairer to give Americans in +Japan the same privileges that she enjoys in some of our states. + +Americans in Yokohoma say that the Japanese law drafted to relieve this +situation and often proudly referred to by Japanese diplomats, has never +really been passed and therefore has no value. They add that if old +Marquis Okuma had more peace-craving followers and the lawmakers were +responsible to the people instead of the Emperor, for whom they are said +to act, differences between the United States and Japan could be more +quickly and completely settled. + + + +Chapter V + + + +To board a train after our long sea-trip was a delightful change. After +passing through quaint villages, rice fields, and interesting garden +patches we arrived at Tokyo in time for the ambassador's reception. The +moment one talks to Charles Warren, in charge of our American Embassy in +Japan, one feels that our Japanese problems are in very conservative and +capable hands. + +Between receptions, we visited many quaint and beautiful temples. At one +we were so hospitably received, served with tea and dainty rice cakes +made with a special emblem upon them for the occasion that we forgot to +grumble about being made to remove our shoes. Only a few of the party +remembered the Japanese custom of removing the outer foot-gear, when +entering their temples, and came prepared with easily removed pumps. +They had a good laugh at the row of dignified, badge-bedecked +representatives, solemnly lacing up their shoes, while sitting on the +stoop about a foot from the ground, with the blazing sun upon them. + +When we talked to some of the American residents in Japan, they all got +on the old familiar subject, the high cost of living, but they seem to +agree that it cost just twice as much to live in Japan as any other +place in the world. It seems that without considering the high rent, an +amah (a sort of maid who will do only certain duties), a house boy (who +is anywhere from twelve to sixty years old), and a cook (who gets a +commission on everything you buy) must be kept, even in the simplest of +homes. Those accustomed to one servant in America usually find it +necessary to have from three to six in Japan. Of course their wages are +less than in the United States, but food is very high. Rice, for +instance, was twenty percent higher than in America. Inferior coal was +twenty-two fifty a ton, and the high ceilinged, furnace less houses +require a great deal of coal and wood in winter. Very few Americans use +the jammed street cars. Automobiles are very expensive to maintain, not +only on account of the rough streets, but the licenses are very high. +One of our party hired a rick-shaw for twenty minutes and paid a yen +(about fifty cents), so residents usually find it more economical to +keep their own rick-shaws and coolies. + +Certainly the Japanese are past masters in entertaining. No wonder it is +said that some of our former diplomats were so much influenced by their +lavish entertainment's that they lost their heads. The Chamber of +Commerce of Tokyo greeted our Chamber of Commerce representatives at an +elaborate theatre party. An especially staged Japanese drama, followed +by a comedy, with a sumptuous dinner between the acts, was only a part +of the entertainment. A. I. Esberg and Byron Mauzy answered the banzis, +of the oldest merchant in Japan, Baron Okura, with three rousing cheers +for the Japanese, after the formal addresses had been made. + +Everywhere we were met with politeness and courtesy. To the casual +observer the military element is not noticeable in the home life of the +common people, as they are rapt in their work, very industrious and get +their pleasure talking to their ever present babies, or tending some +little plants, even if squalor surrounds them. But the word of the ones +higher up is absolute law to them. Discipline is supreme from the time +the small boy is taught the "Goose Step," preparatory to his military +training, until he obediently marries the girl his parents have selected +for him. He does what he is told without a murmur, as does his wife who +is his absolute slave. + +One understands why some call Japan the Germany of the East, which +country, some of our delegates were told by foreign residents, Japan +greatly admires. It is said that her people were more than surprised and +disappointed when the armistice was signed; as the Japanese press was so +well censored it gave no indication that Germany could be defeated. + +After a day of sight-seeing, and investigating various trade conditions, +our party found the rickshaw ride back to the hotel, at dusk, most +interesting and quite exciting, if one has not become accustomed to the +rule of turning to the left instead of the right, as we do at home. +Packed street cars, automobiles, carts piled high with incredible loads +pulled by coolies, a girder being dragged by a scrawny horse led by a +seemingly tireless, whip-equipped native, all apparently were about to +collide with our rick-shaw party. We seemed to be always in the way and +always on the wrong side of the street. We remembered with a shudder, +that the Japanese believe it noble to die, and seemingly, they were +going to drag us to destruction with them. We tried to get them to go +slower but could not think of the Japanese words, so we might just as +well have tried to stop the North wind, as to have changed the orders +given by our interpreter to the coolies. + + + +Chapter VI + + + +We did not know that when we boarded the special train chartered by the +Tokyo Chamber of Commerce to take the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce +representatives to inspect the silk filatures, that a delightful +luncheon, or as it is called there, "Tiffin," was awaiting us under the +trees. + +Although the heat was oppressive, it was surprising to see how +ceaselessly, and apparently without pain, little girls from twelve years +up, kept five cocoons unrolling at once, in boiling water, in order to +make a single thread of silk. We were told that these girls worked from +twelve to fourteen hours a day, for which they receive forty cents a day +and food, getting a bonus at the end of the year, which amounts to +approximately one months' salary. Sundays are not holidays in Japan, but +workers have two days off a month. + +We saw the whole process, from the sorting of the yellow and white +cocoons to the huge bolts ready for the market, while one of our smiling +hosts significantly remarked, "The yellow and white blend very nicely +together." + +We were interested in learning that the principal owner of this huge +plant has adopted his wife's family name in order to follow the custom +of not allowing a family name to die out, in case there are no sons and +none have been adopted. + +As over one-third of Japan's trade is with the United States, and a +large portion of that is in silk, our clever hosts had printed on the +cover of the booklet presented to us, "Silk is the shining cord that +binds United States and Japan." + +The San Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives had been given the +year book of Japan, all sorts of pamphlets containing figures and facts +concerning various enterprises, and so a day at Nikko, away from +statistics, was most welcome. + +Nikko's sacred grove of Cryptomerie trees said to be over three hundred +years old, never looked more impressive than in the first rain we had +had while in Japan. One of the party who had traveled extensively in the +Orient previously, advised us to forget our trade commercial mission +long enough to see Nikko and then we could afford to overlook all the +other temples. Certainly nature and man's art achieved a double triumph +here, and this advice must have piqued the curiosity of most of the +stolid businessmen of the party; for yellow strips of rubber and paper +umbrellas were rented, and in spite of the downpour, the great stairs +were mounted. Even comfy shoes were parted with in order to tread upon +the cold marble floors of the ancient temples. We now know, shoes have +to be checked with umbrellas at the outer doors in Japan. + +We were not the only ones seeing Nikko at eight A. M. in the storm. +Besides the groups of soldiers and the crowds of pilgrims from all over +Japan, there was the ceaseless click-click of the wooden shoes of +thousands of children on the stone steps. + +When we left the cozy dining-room of the hotel with its charming outlook +upon a mossy bank, where quaint shrubs were flourishing, we felt quite +proud of ourselves for braving the weather, until we asked our guide why +so many children were there that day. He said, "You see, it is such a +fine day for an excursion, not too hot or cold, no one notices the +rain." + +On the way to the train we saw a queer old pawn shop, filled with +wonderful antiques. Some of the party claim that the shop was bought +out, so some of our San Francisco relatives will get an inkling from +this where Santa Claus may have gotten some of their Christmas presents. + +Most of us did not mind being scolded for over-paying our sweating +rick-shaw coolies, but we all felt rather uncomfortable when we were +told that we should never have paid the first price asked in any of the +shops, and that our prize purchases could probably have been bought for +half the price by a clever bargainer. + +- + +In a corner of the car, that was taking the San Francisco Chamber of +Commerce party to Kyoto, the heart of Japan, sat a little Japanese girl +in true Buddha style with her little toes crossed, filling her pipe from +her purse and taking the usual three puffs (that is about all these +pipes hold). She looked about fifteen, but must have been nineteen, +because, in Japan no one is allowed to smoke until that age has been +attained, and no native would think of breaking a rule. + +We arrived in time for the Jidai Festival, which is held only once a +year. We saw a procession showing all the phantastic costumes worn by +the old-time tribal warriors, and it proved so interesting that we +decided not to mourn the fact that the cherry blossom celebration was +out of season. We felt much better, too, when we were reminded that all +the pilgrims, coming to feast their eyes, never get a taste of the +luscious fruit, the Japanese cherries being uneatable. + +We were told that all prices were raised by the storekeepers when any +convention arrived in town. Some of us successfully resisted purchasing +cloissone, and satsuma ware, although we saw it being made and were +served with tea and coaxed to buy - "Justa leetle souvenir." But the +kimonos were too much for Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher and Louis Mooser, who, +in spite of the fact that Mrs. Rockefeller was in Kyoto bidding on some +of the same garments (which of course raised the prices even higher) +carried away the prettiest garments in the shops. + +Our party could not help noticing, how much the Japanese people, even of +the lowest class, appreciate their temples and statues. + +One of the party asked if anyone knew a person in San Francisco, with +the possible exception of some scholarly teacher, who could describe +even imperfectly the statues in Golden Gate Park. Here the Japanese +journey miles to see a statue. The old scholars always preached the +potency of something half concealed to stimulate the imagination, but it +took a Japanese sage to conceive the idea of building a fine statue of a +favorite war hero and then to bury it. And now thousands come to Kyoto +to the very spot where the statue is buried, imagining its proportions, +and praying for strength and success in their encounters. + +We were told that the belief that the Emperor is a God-like being is +strengthened by the fact that he is never seen and therefore his +people's glorified imagery of him is never shattered. We were told that +the Emperor is seen only by a carefully selected group twice a year, +once at the Cherry Blossom season and once at the Chrysanthemum +Festival, and if it rains on these days the reception is put off for +another year. + +Why, the mystery of the Orient was even found in our menus, and it did +not take long for the Pandoras of our party to find out that "Bubble and +Squeak" was good old ham and eggs and "Angels under Cover" were oysters +wrapped in bacon. + +After official business was over for the day, the party "did" Theatre +Street, where our own movie queens reigned beside some poster depicting +a Japanese soldier fighting a dragon. Byron Mauzy told us that our jazz +music is often called for and that pianos with a specially made case to +withstand the dampness, were in demand. + +Our party found out why someone said, "There is as much red-tape +necessary to go through a Japanese palace as there is to get married," +for we faced the grim-armed soldiers at the outer gates, but were not +allowed to enter until our credentials had been carefully inspected. +Then we were permitted to go into a small outer room where we wrote our +names, addresses, etc., in a large book. After a scrutiny of this and a +long wait, giving them sufficient time to telephone and see if our +passes were authentic, we were formally escorted through beautifully +carved portals, past endless, handsomely decorated, empty rooms, over +the squeaky door sill (that is supposed to warn the inmates of someone's +approach) and finally to the canopied gold-mounted throne itself. + +We began to feel a little easier, when we got out in the sun of the +garden, but even there we felt formal, for in these sacred gardens no +gay flower or dashing stream is permitted. Nature, too, must be subdued, +and even the little trickle of water circling the buildings, was there +for the sole purpose of suggesting purity, we were informed. + +After the reception and investigation tour of Kobe, forty of the party +boarded a train for Peking, under the direction of Hoover's +representative, F. R. Eldridge. + +We had enjoyed Fujiyama by moonlight, but did not know that we were also +to glide by the Inland Sea at sunset. Korea's roads, built of course, by +the Japanese soldiers, and the guarded stations of Manchuria, were of +much interest to the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce investigators. + +Every evening impromptu speeches on conditions were held in the dining +car. M. A. Gale, Henry S. Bridge, and Louis Mooser also vied with each +other telling funny stories, Carl Westerfeld contributing to the +entertainment by organizing a group of the party into "The South +Manchurian Quartet." Dave and Resse Lewellyn started to sing "Annie +Rooney" and "Mother McCree" whenever things were too quiet. + +We stopped long enough at Seoul, Korea, to talk to representatives of +trade and commerce and to chat with the "Grand Old Man of Korea," before +arriving in Peking. + + + +Chapter VII + + + +Our stay in three-thousand year-old Peking was too short, for besides +investigating conditions, attending our Minister Shurman's reception, +visiting the country home of the former Prime Minister Hsuing Hsi-Ling, +we would have enjoyed spending more time seeing The Summer Palace, The +Jade Fountain and the Temple of Heaven to say nothing of studying +conditions. + +About one-thirty, when the gay dance had ended at Hotel de Peking, which +by the way, would be a credit to London or New York, we took an hour's +rickshaw ride in the moonlight to the Forbidden City. The solemn +pom-pom-pom of the funeral dirge for the Mother of the heir to the +Chinese Throne, was indescribably impressive. About eighty men bore the +casket from the dwelling to its canopied hearse. One of the mourner's +told us that the fourteen-year-old heir to the throne, had not cared +much, when all his playthings were taken from him, or even when his +throne was taken, but that now he was inconsolable over the loss of his +mother. + +After seeing this weird funeral procession of the last of the Ming +Dynasty in the gray of early dawn, seeing a Buddha with eyes of pure +gold, and also riding the Hodzu rapids, it took an aeroplane ride to +create any real excitement in our party. + +Six of the Chamber of Commerce Representatives decided to see the Great +Wall of China and the Ming Tombs, regardless of the lack of time; so +Carl Westerfeld, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes, David and Reese Lewellyn, Miss Mary +Moynihan and M. Hazlett, Jr., chartered a Vickers Vimmy Biplane. The +air-riders felt much less perturbation after being informed that this +machine cost the Chinese government fifty thousand dollars, weighed over +five tons, and had comfortable wicker seats in a pretty little cabin for +nine people. They were so proud to accomplish in an hour and a half, a +trip which usually takes two days, that we will tell some of them that +they have not come down to earth yet, if they keep on telling us what we +missed by not going. + +We had no sooner gotten accustomed to the Japanese money and were able +to say, "Ohio," (good-morning), and a few other Japanese words glibly, +when we had to learn "Pidgin English" and use the "Mex" dollar in China, +and next we were told to exchange our money from Peking notes to +Shanghai currency. + +The approach to Shanghai, the Paris of the East, along its beautiful row +of buildings on the waterfront, and called The Bund, surprised even the +muchly thrilled Chamber of Commerce Party. + +The American Consul, C. T. Cunningham, was very ill, but his wife gave +us a reception. A dinner by the Chinese Chamber of Commerce and an +examination of trade exhibits followed. + +The six physicians of the party received their biggest surprise at the +Chinese Theatre when, in the middle of the performance, a large towel +that had evidently been dipped in warm water, was passed around to the +audience so that the theatre-goers might wipe off the perspiration or +beads of excitement from their faces and hands. The towel was a rich +shade of brown by the time it reached our party. Germs? Why they never +thought of such a thing and seem to feel, "Where ignorance is bliss, +'tis folly to be wise." + +If Shanghai thrilled us, Hongkong fascinated us, when we ascended in a +railroad something like our Tamalpais cars to the peak. To reach the +very top, cozy wicker chairs, mounted on bamboo poles, carried by two +coolies, are necessary. The movement of the chair while descending +reminds one of a ride on a rather old, single-gaited horse. + +Our party will always associate Macao, China, with "Dante's Inferno." To +see the half-clothed Chinese bending over their open fires in the opium +factory, to see children soldering the covers of the little boxes their +brothers have just finished mixing and filling, will always be an awful, +vivid picture in our memories. + +The cigar factory also seemed a fine sample of what some good people +wish us to believe awaits the wicked. Babies, not able to walk, are busy +working beside their mothers stripping the tobacco leaf from the stems. + +If the cigar and opium factories shocked us, the firecracker factory +appalled us. A crowd of youngsters huddled in a tiny, filthy room filled +with powder, were working with wonderful dexterity, ceaselessly putting +fuses in firecrackers. No one seemed to notice or care if a visitor +might carelessly let a light fall from a cigar or drop a match. Many of +us decided that perhaps the proverb: "If you want to make a Chinese +happy, just buy him a coffin," is not so far off, because death to many +of them looks much more attractive than life. We were told that if a +Chinese falls off his sampan, his neighbor does not try to save him. +That would be a "Bad Joss" as they say and would incur the wrath of the +River God, who pulled him in. Then, too, the rescuer would have to +support him for the rest of his days. + + + +The Homeward Trip +Chapter VIII + + + +The Stop at Singapore + + + +They say that anticipation is half of enjoyment, but the Chamber of +Commerce Party never could have imagined the pleasure we were to have in +Singapore, although the expected palms waved greetings from the shore as +an indication of the tropical scenes we were to see. + +We had heard it said that, "He who tries to hurry the Orient shall come +to a speedy grave," and we thought there must be some truth in it, when +at the junction of two busy streets we saw a lazy native peacefully +reposing, on his cot bed, in the middle of two lines of traffic. Nice +quiet spot for a nap, while the sun was beating down with such force +that the men of the party drew their new helmets well down over their +heads. Stanley, exploring darkest Africa, could not have heard more +precautions and sunstroke warnings, than the men of this party. But the +guide-book authors do not seem to care whether the sun strikes the women +or not. Guess they believe that the women's hair will protect them, or, +perhaps, it is reasoned, that as the ships usually touch China first, +(one of the greatest hair markets of the world), the women cheated by +nature, are supposed to have gotten a goodly supply before they reach +Singapore. + +But do not let this give our friends the idea that the women were +neglected in Singapore. They say there are only three unmarried white +girls left in that city and that these are taking their time about +deciding upon which of the army of males they will select. One fine +looking chap told a group of ladies of our party that it was two months +before he learned that in order to secure dances with the popular +matrons, it was necessary to phone the week before the dance to find out +whether he was to be favored with the sixth or seventh or ninth dance. + +Now before any girl who chances to read the foregoing and packs her +trunks for this tropical spot, let me warn her that it is so hot that +the powder stays on about as well as water on a duck's back, and a +lizard is liable to drop in her lap at any time. At least that is what +happened to the smallest debutante of our party, Miss Sallie Glide, at +one of the dances given in honor of the San Francisco Delegates. And +while some of the young couples of our party were strolling through the +wonderful botanical gardens admiring the Travelers Palm, whose +fan-shaped branches are said to be the compass of the desert, as their +branches always point east and West, a family of wild monkeys (with the +baby monkeys clinging to the mothers' breasts) crossed the path. And a +little further on a snake charmer giving his cobras an airing, was +encountered. If the element of danger appeals to her, then this is the +place for her, for she may expect to see one of these big snakes +unaccompanied by its master at any time if she ventures in the thicket. +And just a short trip out of the city is the tiger in his native jungle. +Phil Lyon and Carl Westerfeld went on a hunt, but H. J. Judell came +nearest to killing one. He shot between the eyes, as the guide directed, +but missed the brute. + +The variety and brilliancy of the clothing of the cosmopolitan +inhabitants rivals the scarlets and greens of the botanical gardens. The +natives, perhaps, try to make up in vivid coloring what they lack in +quantity. Others are entirely unadorned and most of the children are +also naked. + +Alfred Esberg, C. B. Lastrete, Dwight Grady and J. Parker-Currier were +given a dinner at the executive mansion of the English governor, Sir +Laurence Guillemard. This was the first time that American travelers +were so honored. + +The Chinese Chamber of Commerce gave a beautiful reception to our party. +As we entered the banquet hall, the band played the "Star Spangled +Banner" and the moving picture machine recorded our activities. Speeches +were made and conditions discussed, while the champagne flowed freely. +The ladies were given orchids. + +Someone remarked that the white people in Singapore seem bent on +checking the over-powering heat with internal irrigation. At eleven A. +M. all assemble at a special resort for the morning "eye-openers," +between twelve and two, business stops in order to give the thirsty +inhabitants time for tiffin accompanied by a half dozen whiskeys and +sodas or "gin-rickeys"; after four all business ceases for tea, and, if +the tea cup appears it is usually accompanied by a substantial stick in +it, to rouse drooping spirits. Of course during dinner and the evening +Bacchus reigns. Now, I suppose some of you understand why there are so +many apparently contented men in Singapore, in spite of the climate. + +All the lovers that were accustomed to haunt the top deck, called the +"Honey-moon Deck of the Empire State," took rides through the jungle. +The tropical moonlight reflecting the palms in the rippling water and +the trip through the Gap (a break in the hills disclosing the sea far +beyond, as one of the justly famous sunsets was in progress), are said +to have done their work, and four couples, the gossips say, are expected +to announce their engagements. One of the ship's wits said, "Again the +dashing widows have proven far more attractive than some of their +unmarried sisters." Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher, offered a linen shower to +the first couple that were married on board, but they all seemed +bashful. Louis Mooser suggested that the name of the ship be changed +from Empire State to "Vampire State." + +Some of our party visited homes in Singapore and found one solution of +the "servant problem." In many cases, the mistress of the house pays a +No. 1 boy, or upper servant, as you know they call them there, a fixed +sum to purchase so many meals and to take the entire responsibility of +the buying and running of the house, while she comes and goes and +entertains as a guest at a hotel. There are no unexpected huge bills at +the end of the month; if the cook leaves, why should she worry, No. 1 +boy just gets another. + + + +Chapter IX + + + +Java + + + +Some of the Chamber of Commerce party were frank enough to admit that +their most vivid recollections of hearing about Java were, in connection +with Moca, together with eggs and toast and the usual accompaniments of +the breakfast table, but we were all in for a revelation. The +cultivation of the hillsides in Japan is child's play in comparison with +the miles upon miles of hills, plateaus and even mountains, all in +flourishing rice fields, coffee plantations and sugarcane. + +One can now realize what the late Premier Hara of Japan meant, when he +is said to have admitted to some intimates that there was no +over-population in Japan if only fifteen percent of the vast tracts (61 +percent of all Japan) were utilized (as it is in Java), enough space for +Japan's growing population could easily be found. It is said that the +Japanese Emperor and his advisers will never dispose of this land or +allow it to be used. + +Our party separated over the land of Java, like the forty tribes of +Biblical history. Some went to the famous ruins of Bora Badur erected +ages ago, some to Djorka to see the native dances and to see the strange +old walled city, where the Sultan, his wives and the fifteen thousand +natives, said to be related to him, live. While the Sultan and his harem +are seated, cross-legged on the floor, with the Dutch Queen's pictures +looking sternly down upon them, the ever waiting counselors of the +Sultan squat outside the sacred precincts. These wise-looking old +counselors of the Sultan also have their retinue of servants waiting on +them - one with a pipe, another with a pillow, still another with a fan, +etc., etc. Our delegation was especially honored in being permitted to +go in the sacred place where the ancient bedroom is situated. We even +spied some harem beauties in the distance. + +Those of the party desiring a complete change from the sea, went to the +picturesque resort of Garot, perched high up near a volcano. Many of the +businessmen stayed right in Batavia to study business conditions. Still +others went to the Botanical gardens of Boetenzorg and to see wonderful +scenery near Bandoeng, but all attended the ball given for us the night +we departed at Batavia. + +In starting out in any vehicle in the tropics we were all taken miles +out of our way. The drivers never attempted to find out where one wished +to go, or listened to one if one tried to make them understand. They +start off with a flourish, usually in the wrong direction, before they +can be stopped. It makes no difference to them. They know they are hired +and that is all they care about. Perhaps this is one reason why Charles +Yates unfortunately missed the ship. Constant Meese found the streets +apparently deserted one night when our party wished transportation back +to the ships but by clapping his hands together, half a dozen rick-shaws +came tumbling over each other to get there first. Sometimes the clapping +of the hands is not enough to attract the native's attention, as he +rarely listens to orders; some of the party say they have found the +typical tourist's cane most effective and think they have discovered a +real reason for a cane at last. + +At Batavia the well-known Captain Edward Salisbury left his +world-touring yacht "Wisdom," to join our party. He entertained us in +the evenings with weird tales of his adventures in the South Seas, where +pigs are exchanged for wives and the wives thus acquired are then put to +work to raise more pigs to get new wives. + + + +Saigon + + + +Good students of geography will doubtless recall that the approach to +Saigon is through the crookedest river in the world. As I usually "just +passed" in this subject, cannot speak with authority, but I will +guarantee that it has many more curves than our Tamalpais railroad, +advertised all over as being "The crookedest railway on the globe." + +So the members of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce tour were busy +speculating on just how many turns and twists the Empire State had made +before she finally docked at Saigon, when some members of the Saigon +Reception committee told us that we were the largest American steamship +that ever had landed in port. + +Two large busses were placed at the disposal of our delegation. The +Cercle Sportivo gave a dance at their club in our honor and two tea +dansants were held at the Continental Hotel. Some of the ladies got +quite accustomed to the bags of mosquito netting that one slips one's +feet in, to evade the pests while dining, but most of us forget to step +out, and, for a moment, thought we were in a sack race. + +The elephant at the beautiful botanical gardens, that would go and buy +himself food when given the proper amount of money was interesting, but +he was not the real attraction at Saigon. Our party had been entertained +by the Geisha girls, sung almost to distraction (you know it is impolite +for the sing-song girls of China to stop singing until requested to +stop). We had watched the dancing of the Javanese and Philippine +Ballerinas, but, we had to come here to see the real French girls. We +now understand why many of our soldiers came home with French wives - +"vamp" is the only word we could think of in describing every one of +them. Never before had we seen so many picture hats. + +What fun we all had airing our moth-eaten French. (Here I am not +referring to the few of our party that speak French fluently.) And it +was several days before some of us stopped calling the Chinese +cabin-boys "Garcon." + +Perhaps, to show that the San Francisco committee appreciated the +distinction of being on board a ship fifteen feet longer than any other +American steamer to make that port, we broke off part of the propeller +as a souvenir in departing. + + + +Chapter X + + + +Manila + + + +Never were more elaborate preparations made to receive our big +delegation. Some said it was a wise precaution to have the day the +Philippine Chamber of Commerce were to entertain us before the +publishing of the "Wood-Forbes Report;" but after the report had been +made public we found the laughter and shouts of "Viva" (long life) from +the children and the heartfelt greetings of their elders, were +cordiality and good-fellowship personified. + +We were told that there were three times the number of people in Java as +in the Philippines, but that the Philippines could easily support a +population of 50,000,000. We were so glad to hear this, as there are +more babies there than any other place in the Orient, with the exception +of Japan, but the Philippine babies seem to be free from the awful sores +we noted on many of the Japanese children. However, it seems that infant +mortality is great in the Philippines, on account of the improper diet +of the mothers and many of the babies die, we were told, as their +mother's milk does not agree with them. One of the first orders of +Governor-General Leonard Wood was to call a meeting to check the infant +mortality. + +In an interview, just after the "Wood-Forbes Report" had been published, +Governor Leonard Wood said, "I look for great things from the women of +the Philippines; the quicker they form a part of the Government, the +better for the Islands." He seems to feel that they are the most +important factor in the islands and considers them more dependable than +the men. He told with great satisfaction how he had arranged for Miss +Hartlee Emprey (the research worker from the Rockefeller Hospital at +Peking, who succeeded in perfecting a four-cent-a-day diet for the +famine-stricken in China) to eliminate the malnutrition in the food for +the young Philippine mothers and to discover a better diet for the +lepers. Governor Wood added, "I want doctors, lots of them, modern +equipment' and nurses to make more sanitary conditions. I also wish the +diseases destructive to cattle studied." There are only 930 nurses in +the islands and funds and equipment are needed badly. More doctors are +needed in curing the lepers. In speaking of the present condition of the +islands, he said, "The Philippines are not ready to cut loose from the +United States." + +Everything was done in Manila to make us feel at home, from the moment +the Reception Committee landed on board and Mayor Fernandez handed over +the keys of the city. After being entertained by the Chinese, +Philippine, Spanish and American Chambers of Commerce and being told +that there were countless dialects and language mixtures, we were not +surprised that a telephone operator must speak at least nine languages. + +The Montalban Falls trip, as guests of the Philippine Chamber of +Commerce, made us recall the days of 1915, for there the same leader of +the Philippine Orchestra at the Exposition, greeted us. We passed +through a flower-decorated arch and then beneath a specially constructed +bower under which were the charmingly set tables for our "tiffin." + +The second day in Manila we were taken to the Pampanga Sugar Refinery. +Here the men of the party had lengthy talks with the officials, while +the women of the party were being entertained at a luncheon. The ladies +were told that the American factory girl who spends the best part of her +week's wages for silk stockings has her equal in the Philippines. It +seems that the natives (yes, the men too) are so fond of showy clothing +that they will go buy some fancy trifle, when they are in need of food. +Very often the employer has to feed them so as to be sure they will have +strength enough to do their work properly. It seems that many Filipinos +regard the United States as a child regards a benevolent uncle - they +want their independence knowing that the United States will get them out +of any difficulty and protect them from all harm, at the same time, +letting them have their own way. + +They are so quick to learn it is no wonder that many of our soldiers +turned into teachers, just as the soldiers in Russia today are repeating +history in this respect. + +Members of the local Chamber of Commerce told us that on account of the +soil and climate, the sugar matured in seven months instead of eighteen +months necessary in the Hawaiian Islands, and that in one day, the +refinery (we inspected) could turn out 20,000 tons of sugar, enough to +supply San Francisco for one year (the help working on two ten-hour +shifts and receiving one and a half pesos a day a piece). + +Although the pineapples have been imported from the Hawaiian Islands to +the Philippines, they are not subject to the blight that affects them +there; they have a wonderfully sweet flavor. An increase of a million +dollars in the industry has recently been reported, our party was told. + +The third day we were taken to Pagsanjan Rapids, where the party left in +small canoes through a scenic gorge. Mrs. Francis Krull, George Vranizan +and Mrs. Vranizan, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes, S. Swartz and Mrs. Swartz, Harry +Dana, Frank Howlett, A. I. Esberg and his wife were all thrown out of +the boats and into the swift current, but all were rescued in time. Dr. +F. E. Orella introduced the first woman lawyer in Manila, and she +addressed us in the observation car, on the way back from the Falls. + +We passed miles of beautiful groves and were told on the way back to +Manila, that each tree averaged about fifty cocoanuts a year, but that +one tree has been known to yield three hundred nuts, and that a new +breakfast food, made from them, is about to revolutionize the morning +meal. Also we heard that no longer will it be necessary to go to the +tropics to enjoy the mango, for a new process has at last been +discovered that will permit of their being canned. We were told that the +natives carry long knives and often use them and that someone said, +"Although they may be dressed in the latest style from toes to head, +they are still savages from the waist up." This seems difficult to +believe, in spite of the numerous scars one sees, as one could not but +feel friendly toward the Filipinos. Their courtesy is typified in their +road signs that we passed, "Slow please," and after the curve was +rounded, "Thank you." + +We all noticed how clean and neat their appearance was. You know it is +said that the Japanese keep their bodies clean, but not their clothes, +while the Koreans keep their clothes clean (perhaps because they are +white and the dirt is so evident), and not their bodies, that the +Chinese keep neither their clothes nor their bodies clean, but the +Filipinos keep both, their bodies and their clothes, immaculate. + +One of our party asked one of our hosts. "Why he never said, 'right' and +'left', in directing the chauffeur." The answer was that in the old days +the footman's seat was on the left horse, hence 'cella' for left, while +the driver held his reins in his right hand, therefore 'mono' (or hand) +means right to the Filipinos. + +Reese Lewellyn said, as did most of the Americans in the Islands, "That +the United States should never give up the Philippine Islands, as they +are a necessary base for America's importing and exporting." He said, +"Although, before I made this trip, I was not in favor of the United +States holding outside territory, I now realize that we must keep the +Philippines as an outlet for our supplies. In a diplomatic way the +Filipinos will have to be made to realize that, in spite of the fact +that they have been told they would be independent of United States, +conditions warrant our keeping them as a part of the United States." + +Our first impression of the native women was that they were all going to +some ball or had put on their low-necked, transparent evening dresses by +mistake. But, before any reader gets the impression from this that they +are immodest, let me hasten to add that we found that they were +exceptionally sweet and charming and are the souls of propriety. Why, +even the man engaged to a girl cannot so much as walk with her on the +streets in the broad daylight, and to take her arm - Oh, horrors! If a +girl should permit two different beaus to call upon her, even if well +chaperoned, it would eliminate her matrimonial prospects, as she would +then be branded as a hopeless flirt, so we were told. + +But, needless to say, the few American girls in Manila do not follow +these rules, for we heard that an engagement for tea with one masculine +admirer and to watch the oily seola nuts burn at dinner with another +friend, and to attend an evening dance with a third, is not considered +unusual. After the Philippine women get the suffrage, Governor Leonard +Wood seems to want them to have, some of the ladies of our party wonder +if things will not be a little different for the native women? + +We were escorted through cigar factories, hemp works, and to Bilibid +Prison, where from a central reviewing stand, the avenue of cells with +the drilling space between, radiate like a great pinwheel. A very +elaborate drill was given by the prisoners, who were dressed according +to their conduct - white for the best behavior, blue, fairly good, +stripes for bad behavior. + +Besides the tea dance at the beautiful Spanish Club, the Governor's +Reception at the Palace (as it is called here), and the numerous dances, +there was a luncheon given to our party at the delightful Manila Hotel +by the Rotary Club. + +At this function the cablegram to us from Mayor Rolph was read and +applauded, as were the messages from former Manager Wood of the St. +Francis, and Manager Manwaring of the Palace. After speeches by A. I. +Esberg, Byron Mauzy, C. B. Lastreto, Ex-Senator James Phelan, who had +just arrived in Manila, made a very interesting and humorous address. + +He referred to the time when the war over the Philippines was going on, +at which time he was Mayor of San Francisco. He said, "Then we hardly +knew where the Philippines were." He dwelt upon the marvelous resources +of the Islands and warned us not to be like the old miner, who before +the "Days of '49" said that he saw a sign advertising the village that +is now San Francisco, for sale for five dollars. When asked, "Why he +didn't buy it," he said, "He didn't' have the five dollars, and anyway +he didn't want it then." + +Governor Wood finished the speeches with a stirring address. "Capital is +safe in the Philippines. Take an interest in them," he said. "They are +big, there are wonderful resources and there is big work to do here. The +American Flag is still at the top of the pole. The progress of the +Philippine people in the last twenty-three years cannot be paralleled, +it could not have been accomplished without their cooperation and +without our aid." He referred to the so-called laws of discouragement +that are said to impede business. "I want to get hold of them and +correct them, but they cannot be changed in a hurry. The United States +stands for the development of trade and the open-door in the Pacific. +One of the best piers in the world will be built; the harbor rivals +Seattle, and Manila will be a great port and a distributor of the +products of the Far East. There is room for expansion, labor is cheap. +Germany, the beaten nation, has learned to live without import or export +and understands cheap living. Competition will be keen. They are out to +gobble up South American trade. We must get busy. The war talk is +tommy-rot. Of course there will be wars in the future, but only +irresponsible people think of war at present." + +Manuel Queson, in a long interview, after the "Wood-Forbes" report was +out, said, "I do not agree with the report as the Islands are ready for +independence." + +Sergio Osmena, referred to as a great power and known as the "Sphinx of +the Philippines," was reticent at first, but later he talked freely +about the marvelous resources of the Islands and stated that he, too, +believed the Islands ready for independence. + + + +Chapter XI + + + +Hongkong + + + +Returning from Manila we stopped once more at "The City of Mist," +Hongkong, and were entertained all over again. While some of the Chamber +of Commerce party were motoring to a dance given in honor of the San +Francisco delegates, a coolie was hit and nearly run over. Our host told +the coolie to get out of the way, while assuring us that it would not +have caused much trouble had he been severely injured. He said, "Labor +is so cheap here, some coolies try to get hit to get something out of +you, and if I had really run over him, I would have given him fifty +cents, or so. You know there is a law that if a Chinese accepts any +amount of money after being injured, he has no redress." He went on to +tell a story about using Chinese women to retrieve instead of dogs in +snipe shooting. If these coolie women happen to stand up and get a stray +shot, a few cents is given them, and it is called "square." One of the +husbands of these women retrievers needed money, so his wife stood up in +order to get a lot of shots. She got seven shots and went away with her +husband rejoicing upon receipt of five dollars. + +It was like meeting someone from home when Mrs. H. W. Thomas and Mrs. +Cudahy joined our party again. + +Many of our party looked for the American flag at our consulate, and H. +L. Judell said he could not buy one in all of British Hongkong. + +The feeling against the Germans in Hongkong, many of our party decided, +must be very strong, as we saw cartoons showing a fierce-looking person +killing everyone, and the same person in another pose, dressed as a +traveling salesman, together with the warning, "Remember they are one +and the same." We also noted sentiment against the Japanese in China, +for instance, a Chinese gentleman told a group of our party that he and +many of his countrymen taught their children that someday they would +fight the Japanese. We were told that if a Chinese child is given a +piece of candy and then told that the candy was made in Japan, the child +refuses to eat it. This just typifies the attitude we found in China +towards the Japanese. But as Dr. Kasper Pischel said at one of our +evening meetings, "The spirit of China is not dead but is very much +alive in Canton. Where the guidebooks discussed the narrow streets, to +small even for rickshaws, I found twenty miles of broad streets. Where I +anticipated hovels, a twelve-story skyscraper was seen, and it is my +belief that unscrupulous outsiders are trying to keep the old political +power in Peking." + + + +Canton + + + +Leaving Hongkong, we passed the typhoon shelter on the bay with its +hundreds of floating homes. Next we noted the numerous curved graves +(evil spirits, we were told, would not attack curved lines) and that all +the graves faced the rice fields and the water for good luck. It seems +that once a year, the relatives come with a big feast, and after waiting +two hours for the spirits to eat, the mourners "fall to" and devour it +themselves. The sacred mountain that resembles an amah and child, where +the expectant Chinese mothers come to pray for male babies, was seen in +the distance, as was the inlet of the bay, which, according to legend, +was the original location of the Garden of Eden. Some members of the +party considered this region much more beautiful than the Inland Sea of +Japan. + +Many of the party could not understand what the tall buildings in all +the small villages could be. The fluent-talking Chinese officials, sent +to escort our party, informed us that they were the pawnshops, and the +wealth of the villages is determined by the number of their pawnshops, +it being quite an honorable business in China, and all the inhabitants +put their winter clothes in pawn. If, when they redeem this clothing, an +epidemic of disease occurs, no one seems to think it might be because +the clothes of all are put together unfumigated. + +We were discussing the odd names on the official program when we were +told that besides meeting a Mr. Looking For, a Mr. Jack Rabbitt was to +follow the first speaker at the coming luncheon. We heard all about Ho +Fook, with his fourteen wives and fifty-six children, and how Wang Chong +Hin had just made a million in Java, raising sugar cane; that fat worms +were considered a great treat, as were portions of rats, cats and dogs, +all of these questionable delicacies being on display in the wayside +markets. + +The Canton reception was by far the most spectacular the Chamber of +Commerce party received in the Orient. After the gaily attired band +(playing American airs) greeted us, we passed through a brilliantly +decorated arch and drove past the business section of Canton to the +Yamen of His Excellency, Chan Chuing Ming, the Governor of Kwangtung. +Here a reception committee representing the Government of the Republic +of China, at Canton, the Provincial Government of Kwangtung, the Canton +Municipality, the General Chamber of Commerce at Canton and the American +Association of South China gave us a never-to-be-forgotten welcome. + +An elaborate Chinese tiffin (yes, we ate a la chop sticks) was served. +Governor Chan Chuing Ming, in his opening address, spoke of South +China's plan for trade expansion and the development of this vast +section. He referred to America's policy of fair play and the "Open +Door" in the Orient and said that South China was rapidly becoming a +progressive democracy and that the delegation showed its interest in +South China by its presence there. + +Commissioner Francis Krull, in answering this speech, spoke of the +"Heavenly Welcome." This reminded us that besides the bands, military +escort, soldiers at salute throughout the streets, auto street sprinkler +to keep down the dust in front of the procession, an aeroplane had +soared over our heads dropping messages of greeting. Someone suggested +that a book on Chinese etiquette should have been studied by all +representatives, for, when Mayor Sun, the son of Dr. Sun Yat Sen, head +of South China, gave one of the ladies of our party a choice morsel, +fished out of the central platter with the spoon with which he as +eating, she did not know that his is considered a special mark of favor +and accepted it very reluctantly, thinking her host most forgetful. + +After eating our fill of bird's nest soup, sharks' fins and bamboo +cells, we were taken in motors to see the five-storied Pagoda, the City +of the Dead, and the monument to the Chinese revolutionary heroes +(donated by the Chinese all over the world). When we saw one huge slab +donated by some Chinese in San Francisco, we did feel toward the +intelligent, kindly people just as our cultured host and hostess put it, +"Right at home with them." + +The General Chamber of Commerce gave a dinner at the Asia Hotel to the +businessmen of the party, while the Chinese ladies gave a twelve-course +dinner on the top floor of one of their new skyscrapers. This is said to +be the first time in Chinese history that the sheltered and seldom seen +Chinese ladies of rank ever gave a dinner to any, traveling delegation. +Their correctly spoken English, charming graciousness, and, in a few +cases, rare beauty, would make any collection of American women look, to +their laurels. + +Another typically Chinese dinner was given for us where James H. Henry, +an American living in Canton, made the best speech we had heard in the +Orient. He laid stress upon the fact that we need China more than she +needs the United States. As other nations are studying her people and +her resources we are letting things drift. He said, "United States is +pursuing the same stupid psychology that originally caused England to +lose her trade in China to the painstaking, persistent Germans. There +are few Americans that can name readily six Chinese cities. China favors +America because she stands for Liberty, Fraternity, Equality and Fair +Play, but that her favoring the United States is more negative than +positive as the United States is doing nothing to cultivate her trade +and her favor is more on account of what Americans stand for but have +not done as yet. Americans had better get busy and do something positive +to develop her trade as do the other nations. The French are importing +Chinese to study in France and in order to get to know the French and +like them. The Germans come and live among the Chinese to learn their +ways and to secure their friendship. China is going forward." + + + +Chapter XII + + + +Perhaps some would say several of our party should have heeded the +warnings of the blind astrologers, so plentiful in China, or stopped +joking when we received number thirteen for dinner cards, hat checks and +auto drivers' checks, but, strange as it may seem, on the very day that +we were joking about the prevalence of "number 13" we had a very narrow +escape. At any rate the most beloved member of the party, Mrs. Carrie +Schwabacker (affectionately known as "Mother McCree"), nearly lost her +life. Harry Dana, Cleve T. Shaffer and the writer, were with her in the +small motor boat, returning from an entertainment given at a Chinese +banker's home on the Pearl River (we were sure they referred to a black +pearl when they named it, as the water looked like ink) and the craft +became stuck in the mud and the propeller was impeded. The big river +steamer, which we were due to catch, waited twenty minutes for us and +when we finally got alongside the steamer, the Chinese boatman tied us +to it as it was starting, in spite of our protests. Naturally, the +little boat was dragged underneath the large rapidly moving steamer. One +of the boatmen was thrown overboard. By desperate efforts we were saved +from capsizing and the little boat broke loose from the steamer bearing +her down, so we did not catch up with the party until a day later. + +If Neptune Day was a huge success, then "Sanguinetti's Night" was a +triumph. The old "Frisco Restaurant" reappeared on board ship, cartoons +were on the walls (cleverly drawn by Miss Marion Doolan), the floor was +sawdust covered. Red ties, stockings and skirts were in demand. Mrs. +Evan's brilliant scarf made one costume for the borrower, everyone +looked unbelievably tough in the costumes appropriate for this Italian +affair. Candles gave a dim light. There were samples of "Apache +Dancing." Spaghetti and ravioli were enjoyed along with the red wine +that flowed freely, while the orchestra played only Italian and "Jazz" +pieces. Will anyone ever forget Mrs. Schwartz's wonderful rendition of +the "Lost Italian girl?" Miss Schlessinger won the prize for being the +best "Vamp." + +In the smoking room and on deck, Mah Gongg, for awhile, vied with +bridge, but the old standby (enlivened with prizes) proved more popular +on the homeward trip. If noise was any indication, then the last few +days, when the deck sport prizes were being played for, were hugely +enjoyed by all. Capt. E. Salisbury, C. J. Okell, S. N. Haslett, Jr. and +H. S. Dana were among the star players. Dr. Woolsey and J. F. Geise were +also "fans." + +Christmas will always be another happy memory. The carols, the marching +around the ship of the choristers Christmas Eve, the services and the +story of Christmas by Mrs. Barton gave a contrast of seriousness that +made us appreciate the frivolities all the more. How cheery the dining +room was with its garlands of red berries and huge Christmas tree, +swaying with the motion of the ship, and what fun when jovial and +popular Captain Nelson, as Santa Claus gave a present to all. How +surprised and happy the Captain, the officers and Mr. Grady were when +Warren Shannon presented them with the beautiful gifts purchased by our +party. Everyone was coaxed to display their "parlor tricks." Warren +Shannon gave his masterpiece "Tiger Fat," Reese Lewellyn sang, followed +by Mrs. Schwabacker's charming rendition of "What Irishmen Mean by +McCree," Dr. Thomas Hill recited cleverly, Mrs. Brandeis read the +farewell poem she had written, Mrs. Brown sang beautifully. Will we ever +see a Korean costume without thinking of Louis Mooser and the excellent +resolutions of thanks he drew and how he regretted the loss of his first +diary? If it was half as clever as the second diary we can well +understand his feelings. The laughter, singing and dancing kept up until +way past midnight. No wonder everyone seemed in the best of health and +spirits after this wonderful tour. + + + +Last Few Days of Trip + + + +The women of the party, led by Mrs. Frank Panter, gave a vote of thanks +for being permitted to be a part of such an important tour penetrating +an area where 900,000,000 souls are living, and wrote a resolution to +the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce to that effect. It was up to the +women to send "the last word" from the party, as Ou Wee of Canton, said, +"The women of America are the real dictators,' 'and since the days of +Eve, every man knows that women must have the "last word." But after +seeing the treatment of the Oriental women, all the party of the +feminine gender, were doubly glad to be Americans and to be going home. + +We all understand the meaning of the phrase, "The best part of going +away is the coming back," and when we contemplated that the famous +"Peace Ship" could only stand it for three days, we felt quite pleased +with our three months' record of friendly relationship, not only with +our associates on board ship, but also with all those of the Orient, on +this, the First Commercial Relationship Tour that any Chamber of +Commerce has ever attempted and successfully accomplished. + + + +Mrs. R. S. Atkins Mr. D. K. Grady +Mrs. George Alexander Mrs. D. K. Grady +Mr. F. S. Ballinger Miss Elizabeth M. Graham +Mrs. F. S. Ballinger Mr. S. M. Haslett. Jr. +Mrs. Florence Barnard Mr. H. Hastings +Mrs. Louise Barton Dr. T. L. Hill +Miss Lucille Bell Mr. C. W. Hinchcliffe +Mrs. M. S. Bercovich Mr. Frank Howlett +Mr. Fred W. Boole Mrs. Frank Howlett +Mrs. Fred W. Boole Miss Elizabeth Howlett +Mrs. Arthur Brandeis Mr. Frank Howlett, Jr. +Mr. Henry S. Bridge Miss Flora Hunter +Mrs. Henry S. Bridge Miss Alena Hunter +Miss Marjorie Bridge Mr. Louis James +Miss Barbara Bridge Mrs. Louis James +Mr. Louis C. Brown Mr. Chas. H. James +Mrs. Louis C. Brown Mrs. Chas. H. James +Mr. Roy J. Chapman Miss Rosalie T. James +Miss Jessie Craig Dr. M. J. Judell +Mr. J. Parker Currier Mr. H. L. Judell +Mrs. J. Parker Currier Sidney P. Kahn +Mrs. A. M. Cudahy Miss R. Kinslow +Mr. H. S. Dana Mr. Francis KruIl +Mrs. S. C. Denson Mrs. Francis Krull +Mrs. E. Dinkelspiel Mr. C. B. Lastreto +Miss Marian Doolan Mrs. C. B. Lastreto +Mrs. Jas. P. Dunne Mrs. R. R. Livingston +Miss Louise Elliott Mr. D. L. Llewllyn +Mr. A. I. Esberg Mr. Reese Llewllyn +Mrs. A. I. Esberg Mr. A. B. Luther +Miss Belle Espeset Mrs. A. B. Luther +Dr. C. W. Evans Mrs. Anna B. Luther +Mrs. C. W. Evans Mr. P. L Lykins +Mrs. Bruce Foulkes Mrs. P. L. Lykens +Mr. M. A. Gale Mr. P. J. Lyon +Mrs. M. A. Gale Mr. C. H. Mattlage +Dr. Amelia Gates Mrs. C. H. Mattlage +Mrs. Angeline Gee Mr. Byron Mauzy +Mrs. J. F. Geise Mr. B. M. McCrory +Mr. Louis Glass Mr. Constant Meese +Miss Sally Glide Miss Charlotte Moore + +Mr. Louis H. Mooser Mrs. S. L. Schwartz +Dr. A. W. Morton Miss G. A. Shaffer +Mr. A. W. Morton, Jr. Mr. Cleve Shaffer +Miss Mary Moynihan Mr. Warren Shannon +Mr. Wm. Muir Mrs. Warren Shannon +Mr. A. T. Neff Miss Alma Simon +Mrs. A. T. Neff Mr. F. H. Speich +Miss Lucretia Neff Mrs. F. H. Speich +Mr. C. J. Okell Mr. Wm. Symon +Mrs. C. J. Okell Mrs. Wm. Symon +Dr. F. E. Orella Miss May Slessinger +Mrs. F. E. Orella Mr. C. A. Thayer +Mr. Frank Panter Mrs. C. A. Thayer +Mrs. Frank Panter Mrs. H. W. Thomas +Dr. Kaspar Pischel Mr. Geo. Vranizan +Mrs. Kaspar Pischel Mrs. Geo. Vranizen +Mr. Geo. Russell Reed Mr. Edward C. Wagner +Mrs. Geo. Russell Reed Mrs. Edward C. Wagner +Miss Frances Reed Mrs. M. S. Washburn +Miss Margaret Rice Mr. Carl Westerfeld +Captain R. Robinson Mrs. J. D. Wheeler +Mrs. L. Ross Mr. Fred J. Wood +Mr. Louis Rothenberg Mrs. Fred J. Wood +Mrs. Louis Rothenberg Dr. C. H. Woolsey +Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher Mr. Chas. Yates +Capt. E. Salisbury Mrs. Violet Yates +Mr. S. L. Schwartz + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, THE LOG OF THE EMPIRE STATE *** + +This file should be named 6747.txt or 6747.zip + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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