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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b958db0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #67482 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/67482) diff --git a/old/67482-0.txt b/old/67482-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6fec5c7..0000000 --- a/old/67482-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3874 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Handbook of Cookery for a Small -House, by Jessie Conrad - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: A Handbook of Cookery for a Small House - -Author: Jessie Conrad - -Contributor: Joseph Conrad - -Release Date: February 23, 2022 [eBook #67482] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet - Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF COOKERY FOR A -SMALL HOUSE *** - - - - - - A - HANDBOOK OF COOKERY - - - THE ART AND PRACTICE OF INNKEEPING. - - By ALEXANDER F. PART. - - Demy 8vo. 1Os. 6d. net. - - - A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY. - - By A. ESCOFFIER. - - Demy 8vo. 21s. net. - - - THE COMPLETE INDIAN HOUSEKEEPER AND COOK. - - By FLORA ANNIE STEEL and GRACE GARDINER. - - Cr. 8vo. 7s. 6d. net. - - - THE COOK’S DECAMERON. - - By Mrs. W. J. WATERS. - - Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net. - - - THE BELGIAN COOK BOOK - - Edited by Mrs. BRIAN LUCK. - - Cr. 8vo. 2s. 6d. net. - - - _London: WILLIAM HEINEMANN, Ltd._ - - - - - A - HANDBOOK OF COOKERY - FOR A SMALL HOUSE - - BY - JESSIE CONRAD - - _With a preface by_ - Joseph Conrad - - [Illustration: Publisher logo] - - London - WILLIAM HEINEMANN, Ltd. - - - - - _First published, February, 1923._ - - - _Printed in Great Britain_ - - - - -PREFACE - - -Of all the books produced since the most remote ages by human talents -and industry those only that treat of cooking are, from a moral point -of view, above suspicion. The intention of every other piece of prose -may be discussed and even mistrusted; but the purpose of a cookery book -is one and unmistakable. Its object can conceivably be no other than to -increase the happiness of mankind. - -This general consideration, and also a feeling of affectionate interest -with which I am accustomed to view all the actions of the writer, -prompt me to set down these few words of introduction for her book. -Without making myself responsible for her teaching (I own that I find -it impossible to read through a cookery book) I come forward modestly -but gratefully as a Living Example of her practice. That practice I -dare pronounce most successful. It has been for many priceless years -adding to the sum of my daily happiness. - -Good cooking is a moral agent. By good cooking I mean the conscientious -preparation of the simple food of every-day life, not the more or less -skillful concoction of idle feasts and rare dishes. Conscientious -cooking is an enemy to gluttony. The trained delicacy of the palate -like a cultivated delicacy of sentiment stands in the way of unseemly -excesses. The decency of our life is for a great part a matter of good -taste, of the correct appreciation of what is fine in simplicity. The -intimate influence of conscientious cooking by rendering easy the -processes of digestion promotes the serenity of mind, the graciousness -of thought, and that indulgent view of our neighbours’ failings which -is the only genuine form of optimism. Those are its titles to our -reverence. - -A great authority upon North American Indians accounted for the sombre -and excessive ferocity characteristic of these savages by the theory -that as a race they suffered from perpetual indigestion. The Noble -Red Man was a mighty hunter but his wives had not mastered the art of -conscientious cookery. And the consequences were deplorable. The Seven -Nations around the Great Lakes and the Horse-tribes of the Plains were -but one vast prey to raging dyspepsia. The Noble Red Men were great -warriors, great orators, great masters of outdoor pursuits; but the -domestic life of their wigwams was clouded by the morose irritability -which follows the consumption of ill-cooked food. The gluttony of their -indigestible feasts was a direct incentive to counsels of unreasonable -violence. Victims of gloomy imaginings, they lived in abject submission -to the wiles of a multitude of fraudulent medicine men--quacks--who -haunted their existence with vain promises and false nostrums from the -cradle to the grave. - -It is to be remarked that the quack of modern civilisation, the vendor -of patent medicine, preys mainly upon the races of Anglo-Saxon stock -who are also great warriors, great orators, mighty hunters, great -masters of outdoor pursuits. No virtues apparently will avail for -happiness if the righteous art of cooking be neglected by the national -conscience. We owe much to the fruitful meditations of our sages, but a -sane view of life is, after all, elaborated mainly in the kitchen--the -kitchen of the small house, the abode of the preponderant majority -of the people. And a sane view of life excludes the belief in patent -medicine. The conscientious cook is the natural enemy of the quack -without a conscience; and thus his labours make for the honesty and -favour the amenity of our existence. For a sane view of life can be -no other than kindly and joyous, but a believer in patent medicine -is steeped in the gloom of vague fears, the sombre attendants of -disordered digestion. - -Strong in this conviction I introduce this little book to the -inhabitants of the little houses who are the arbiters of the nation’s -destiny. Ignorant of the value of its methods I have no doubt whatever -as to its intention. It is highly moral. There cannot be the slightest -question as to that; for is it not a cookery book?--the only product of -the human mind altogether above suspicion. - -In that respect no more need, or indeed can, be said. As regards the -practical intention I gather that no more than the clear and concise -exposition of elementary principles has been the author’s aim. And this -too is laudable, because modesty is a becoming virtue in an artist. It -remains for me only to express the hope that by correctness of practice -and soundness of precept this little book will be able to add to the -cheerfulness of nations. - - JOSEPH CONRAD. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - PREFACE v - - A FEW INTRODUCTORY WORDS 1 - - ON KITCHEN REQUISITES 4 - - TREATMENT OF VEGETABLES 8 - - BREAKFAST DISHES, ENTRÉES, SAVOURIES, - STUFFINGS, SAUCES, HORS D’ŒUVRES, SANDWICHES 25 - - SOUPS AND STOCKS 63 - - BEEF 71 - - MUTTON 78 - - VEAL AND PORK 84 - - FISH 89 - - FOWLS AND GAME BIRDS 96 - - VEGETABLES AND SALADS 102 - - PASTRIES, SWEETS AND CAKES 115 - - - - - _A Handbook of Cookery_ - - _For a Small House_ - - - - -A FEW INTRODUCTORY WORDS - - -Cooking ought not to take too much of one’s time. One hour and a half -to two hours for lunch, and two and a half for dinner is sufficient, -providing that the servant knows how to make up the fire in order to -get the stove ready for use. Most girls will quickly learn to do that -and how to put a joint properly in the oven. For my part I never went -into the kitchen before half-past eleven for a half-past one lunch of -three dishes. But once the cooking is begun one must give all one’s -attention and care to it. No dish, however simple, will cook itself. -You must not leave the kitchen while the cooking is going on--unless of -necessity and only for a very few minutes at a time. - -The bane of life in a small house is the smell of cooking. Very few -are free from it. And yet it need not be endured at all. This evil -yields to nothing more heroic than a simple but scrupulous care in -all the processes in making food ready for consumption. That is why -your constant presence in the kitchen is recommended. Unremitting care -should be directed to the following points: - -No saucepan should be allowed of course to boil over. - -No frying pan should ever be put on the fire without the butter or lard -being first placed in it, and that not before the pan is required for -use. - -No joint should be placed in the oven so high as to allow the fat to -splutter against the roof of the oven. - -No joint should be baked in a tin which is too small for it. - -No vegetables should be cooked without a sufficient amount of water in -the saucepan and no green vegetables should be cooked with the lid on. - -No frying pan while in use should be allowed to remain on the fire with -only the fat in it. A piece of whatever you are frying, bacon, fish, -fritters should be left in till another piece is placed in the fat. - -The pan must be removed directly finished with. - -No fat once used for frying should be kept for future use. The economy -is not worth making. The fat, for instance, in which potatoes have been -fried will always contain a certain amount of moisture and the next lot -of potatoes fried in it will turn out greasy and flabby. Fried potatoes -should be crisp and melting in the mouth and if properly prepared make -a delicate dish for a discriminating palate. - -In the same way the fat used for fish however finely strained will -contain particles of fish or breadcrumbs which will be certain to catch -and cause an offensive smell. And the fish fried in such second-hand -fat may perhaps be eatable but will certainly not be worth eating. - -The above recommendations are founded on personal experience. The -author advances them with the greater confidence because she had to -find them out for herself. They present no difficulties in practice. If -they are exactly followed, and due regard is paid also to incidental -remarks of the same nature contained in the body of the book, your -little house need never be invaded by the smell of cooking, generally -so offensive and always unnecessary, which too often meets one in the -hall and in nine cases out of ten--if not in every case--means simply -that good food is being spoiled in the kitchen. - -The recipes in this book are calculated for a household of four -persons. - - - - -GENERAL REMARKS ON KITCHEN REQUISITES AND THEIR CARE - - -This small book may be called the A. B. C. of cookery and the writer is -mainly anxious to give her experiences as a general guide and help both -for cooking and the preparing of an appetizing meal. - -Take for instance either a small flat in town or a cottage in the -country with one maid. It is quite possible to have two dishes for -breakfast with toast, tea or coffee, and to vary those dishes for every -day in the week. Easy breakfast dishes will be found in the body of the -book. All the statements in the book will justify themselves if the -directions are carefully followed. - -To begin with let us furnish our kitchen with those most necessary -utensils which should always be kept either in a drawer in the dresser -or in a dry cupboard. We shall need several enamelled basins of various -sizes, a fish slice, vegetable slice, wire salad basket, one or two -wooden spoons, two large iron ones, a good toasting fork; a small -Dutch-oven to hang in front of the fire (either to cook bloaters, or -chops, or even a steak if one prefers that form of cooking to frying); -an apple corer, a potato ricer, one or two enamelled frying pans of -various sizes and depth. It is best to keep the pan that is to be -used for omelettes for that purpose alone, also the one that is to be -used for making pancakes. Care should be taken in purchasing these -articles as you will often find that some frying-pans will be deeper -in the middle while others will be found to rise and be deepest round -the edges. These are serious defects because the one that rises in the -centre will be useless for either omelettes or pancakes; the one that -sinks in the middle would be equally unsatisfactory as both will be -found to catch. - -A double saucepan will be needed either for boiling milk or making -porridge. We must not forget a fish kettle and a steamer. The care -of the tea-kettle is also important. Once the tea is made and the -kettle not needed for a time, the water should be turned out and the -kettle removed from the stove. If it is allowed to remain boiling or -nearly empty on the stove it will quickly become coated on the inside -and the water thick and cloudy. We will need an enamelled cullender, -a large cheese grater, a nutmeg grater, some cake tins of different -sizes, and pie-dishes. Our choice of saucepans should also be carefully -considered; it should contain at least two large iron ones and the -rest may be enamel. We need two or three baking tins, some china and -block-tin moulds for jellies and a selection of fire-proof earthenware -of various shapes and sizes; wire strainers, to put under fish or -fried vegetables to drain them; an egg poacher, an egg-boiler which is -so much more reliable than even the best memory or the most accurate -clock. There is this golden rule that must always be observed: Never -attempt to make an omelette unless your fire is hot enough to cook it -with the top ring of the stove on. This rule of course applies also -to the pancakes, fritters, or to any form of frying. For if you are -frying a steak or cutlets, fish, potatoes or bacon, you will require -to put the top of the stove on after the first few minutes. Otherwise -your meat or fish will be liable to burn on the surface and remain raw -inside. - -All the utensils must be washed in hot soda water and thoroughly dried -before putting them away. Having regard to the fact that soda is most -injurious to one’s hands, and whether for the mistress or maid the care -and appearance of one’s hands is of great importance, it is best to -place the saucepans, pans, etc. (not earthenware) on the stove with a -certain amount of water and a good piece of soda, and let them stand -to soak on the side of the hot stove, together with such articles as -ricer, poacher, strainer, etc. When ready to wash them up scour well -with a long-handled pot brush, pour off the soda water, rinse in clean -hot water, and dry with a cloth. They can then be placed on the rack -above the stove to dry thoroughly. In this way the hands need not come -in contact with the soda water at all. - -We shall also need a nice smooth pastry board, a rolling pin, and a -small board for chopping parsley or mint. The meat chopper and the -mincer and the meat-saw will require to be kept perfectly clean and dry -to avoid rust, and should always be carefully wiped with a dry cloth -before being used. Should earthenware cooking-vessels or pie-dishes -become burnt, as is sometimes unavoidable, a little rough cooking salt, -or a little ashes rubbed on the burnt surface will be found effective. - - - - -ON THE TREATMENT OF VEGETABLES - -_With a Few Illustrative Recipes_ - - -Great care should be taken in the use of an onion. One often finds that -if by accident a knife used for cutting an onion has been overlooked -and it comes in contact with any article of food the flavour of the -onion will spoil everything. It is also a fact that if an onion is cut -before it is put into soup or sauce, the soup at once becomes cloudy, -while on the other hand if it is merely peeled and put in whole, soup -or sauce will remain perfectly clear. Then again for onion sauce or -soup which would be made with milk, you must never put in any salt or -any other ingredient till _after_ the milk has boiled. If the onion is -added before, the milk will curdle and be spoilt. - -If you want to fry onions for steak, etc., have some good beef dripping -already melted in a baking tin and when it is boiling put in the -quantity of onions you may wish to cook cut in thin slices (cut always -round the onion) then add salt and pepper to taste and bake in a steady -oven, turning them once or twice with the blade of a knife. - -For stuffing for either meat or poultry never put the onions in water. -Cut thin as above directed (never chop) and _boil_ in a deep frying -pan in butter. By boiling I mean using a larger quantity of fat and -not allowing the onions to be browned: one-fourth lb. will be quite -sufficient for stuffing intended for a goose. Have ready on the board -the crumb of a stale white loaf rubbed through a cheese-grater, and -from four to five large sage leaves chopped fine. Mix the two together -with pepper and salt to taste, turn the whole contents of the pan into -the crumbs and chop finely all together. In this way the stuffing will -be found moist and will not repeat after eating. - -In cooking green vegetables use common soda not bi-carbonate. They -should be always put into _boiling_ water. - -Fresh peas should never be shelled over night and should be kept in a -covered dish after shelling till it is time for them to be cooked. Peas -will become quite tough if exposed to the air for any length of time. -Always put into boiling water, never add salt or soda till the peas are -boiling. Scarlet runner beans should only be cut in strips in time for -boiling as the edges become hard and dry if left for more than an hour. -These are best kept in cold water. Dwarf beans should be treated in the -same manner, but can be served with only the ends and edges removed. - -All salads should be put into a bowl of cold water with a good piece -of salt for not more than ten minutes before needed. A wire basket -swung round vigorously will be found the best mode of drying all salads -before dressing. - -If lettuce is to be cooked, cos-lettuce will be found better than the -cabbage variety. It will become greatly reduced in the cooking and is -much improved by being lightly sauté in a frying pan in which a finely -shredded spring onion has been lightly fried in a little butter. Form -into small mounds with a tablespoon, and serve very hot. - -Cabbage and cauliflower should be put for awhile before cooking into a -bowl of cold water with a good piece of salt, head down and the stump -cut four times across. - -Spinach requires washing in several waters with a liberal quantity of -salt. But the last water without salt. Have ready a large saucepan -at least half full of boiling water. If, as some people direct, you -put spinach into a nearly dry saucepan on the assumption that it has -absorbed enough water to be cooked in, there will be an unpleasant -smell. Add salt and a piece of ordinary soda about as big as a large -pea. Boil with the lid off till quite tender. The spinach should then -be a beautiful shade of green. Treat sorrel the same way; only it -will be noticed that it will change colour directly it is put into the -boiling water, becoming a greeny yellow, and is slightly acid in taste. -It is usually eaten with veal, with poached eggs served on it, or as a -dish by itself served with fried bread round the edge. - -Tomatoes are always very useful and can be accommodated in many -different ways. For a breakfast dish--take, for two persons, four -nice sound tomatoes. Place in a large basin and scald with boiling -water over them. The skin will then peel off quite easily leaving the -tomatoes perfectly whole. Cut into slices and put into a cold pan with -a piece of butter about the size of a tablespoon and a pinch of salt -and pepper. Place on the fire and break the tomatoes in the butter -as they cook. Let them fry frequently and serve under poached eggs. -Another way: Take four or more tomatoes, remove the stalk but not the -skin. Cut the top off, scoop the fruit out leaving a wall, have ready -some chopped lean ham, chicken or other meat, add a little onion to -the inside which has been taken out of the tomatoes, pepper and salt. -Put into a small frying pan, and fry lightly, put the mixture into -the tomato, have a little dripping melted in a baking tin, place the -tomatoes into it, when hot put the top on the tomato to form a lid and -bake from 15 to 20 minutes. - -In preparing mushrooms, peel carefully the skin, gently pull the stalk -out and lay them dark side down in a little cold water with a good knob -of cooking salt, this will remove any grit or insects. Have ready a -flat frying pan large enough to take the mushrooms lying flat; lay each -one dark side down and boil in butter gently for about seven minutes, -turn them over with the blade of a knife and let them continue cooking -for another ten minutes to a quarter of an hour; pepper and salt to -taste. Or in another way, take a large flat frying pan; put into it -about an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar, -place over a quick fire and let it burn slightly. That is to say it is -ready when it smokes. Lay the mushrooms as before directed, proceed in -the same way, adding only a little finely chopped onion in the centre -of each mushroom, place dark side up either on toast buttered or on -a flat dish, pour over the butter from the pan and serve very hot. -Sprinkle thinly with chopped onion after the mushrooms are in the dish. - -Mushroom rissoles make an excellent breakfast dish and may be served in -little stone marmites instead of pastry. Carefully wash mushrooms as -directed above. Take a little strong beef gravy (not bovril or other -meat essence) cut the mushrooms into lengths, each one into four or -five, put them into a small saucepan with pepper and salt and enough -gravy to cover, stew for an hour. Thicken with a little flour mixed -smoothly with water. This can be kept over night and warmed in the -morning. - -Turnips make a very good dish with roast pork, treated as follows: -Carefully peel ten or twelve nice firm turnips, reject the woolly as -they are not worth cooking (except for flavouring); cut into slices, -then into lengths, then into small squares (the appearance of a dish is -as important as the taste); boil gently for about half an hour or until -tender, strain and serve very hot with a little melted butter poured -over them, pepper and salt to taste. - -Carrots, if very young, must on no account be peeled, but only lightly -scraped and then cooked in a covered saucepan till tender. Serve very -hot with a little melted butter and a little finely chopped parsley -sprinkled over them. Care should be taken not to boil too long as these -tender young vegetables are apt to become soft and tasteless. When the -carrots are older and bigger they should be carefully peeled and cut in -rings about one-eighth of an inch thick. There is also this pretty and -appetising way to serve carrots. Cook them as above directed and have -ready the following in a lined saucepan (double saucepan): a half pint -of boiling milk with salt to taste, one and a half level tablespoonfuls -of household flour mixed smoothly in a basin with a half ounce of -butter. Should the butter be hard and difficult to mix smooth, place -the basin on the stove till the butter is soft enough to handle with a -firm spoon. When mixed pour the boiling milk straight into the flour -and butter stirring all the time, and always the same way; put back -into the double saucepan and stir till it boils, add the cooked carrot -and serve very hot as an additional vegetable or as a separate dish. -Should the sauce be sticky or too thick judgment which will come with -experience will quickly show the error to be a little too much flour -or careless mixing. This sauce is also useful to compose a lunch dish -with, by adding to it some chopped roast chicken and a thin slice of -onion instead of carrots. Serve in a rather deep dish with croutons of -fried bread or dry toast round the edge. A tin of prawns can be used -instead of chicken in which case a small teaspoonful of anchovy sauce -may be added at the last, instead of salt, as the prawns may be already -a little salt. - -Potatoes are to my mind one of the most ill-used vegetables we have. -They require simple care to make them a useful and welcome addition -to at least two meals in the day. Too often I have found the greatest -carelessness in the cooking of a simple potato. Often at an English inn -potatoes are impossible, even more so than other vegetables, and yet -we English people have the best potatoes in the world! It is indeed -a fact that in the case of the poor potato, God sends the food, and -the devil the cooks! One common error is to peel the potatoes hours -before they are to be cooked and to leave them in water; another -to peel them (because the weather is cold) in quite hot water, or, -worse still, then shut them down in a saucepan on the side of the -stove ever so long before they are required. In this way the potato -is spoilt before it has even boiled. It is quite possible to use up -even cold potatoes in an appetising manner. None need ever be wasted -if the following hints are taken and the sound advice of many years’ -experience is followed. For new potatoes pick out those as much of a -size as possible, carefully scrape them, remove any eyes, rinse in -clear cold water and put into enough boiling water to cover well; add -a sprig of mint (in one piece) and a piece of salt put in a saucepan -preferably not iron and boil gently till tender which can easily be -found by trying them with a fork. When cooked, strain, remove the mint, -put into the saucepan a knob of butter while the potatoes are there -and serve as quickly as possible with a little finely chopped parsley -on them. The object of the butter is not only to improve the taste and -appearance but it also helps to prevent the sort of preserved taste -one so often gets in hotel cooking. As the potatoes get older it is -better to put them to boil into cold water, and directly they are too -old to scrape freely, no mint is necessary or advisable. Some potatoes -are best strained before they are quite cooked and then shut down in -the saucepan to finish in their steam. If the potatoes are not to be -used at once (say when a meal is delayed longer than expected for some -reason), it is a good idea either to rice them in a ricer or to mash -them. In that way they will not have an unpleasant taste and can be -kept hot for some time and still be quite palatable. - -Often one has some cold potatoes left say from lunch, cut them into -slices, put about ½ an oz. of butter into a frying pan and when melted -and hot lay each slice of potato flat in the hot butter, fry quickly -over a brisk fire till they attain a golden-brown colour. Care must be -taken that they do not burn. - -Cold potatoes can also be used for hot cakes as follows: Take the -remains of any boiled potatoes, break them into a bowl, take a -breakfast cup and a half of flour (for this quantity of flour about the -value of eight potatoes would be necessary) rub them smoothly into the -flour, add two ounces of butter, salt, a little baking-powder (unless -self-raising flour is used) mix as for pastry with a little milk (sour -will do) and if possible an egg beaten into it, form into small cakes -and bake on larded paper in a quick oven, serve hot with sugar and -butter to be spread on them. - -For fried potatoes care should be taken to follow these directions -carefully: Peel your potatoes and cut them into slices about one-half -an inch thick, then into strips, each slice let us say into four, let -them lay in a bowl of cold water till wanted for frying. Take a large -deep frying pan in which you have melted one-fourth pound of best tub -lard, place over a quick fire taking care not to let it burn, and when -it is ready (which is easily found out by dropping one piece of potato -into the fat--it should sizzle at once), take the potatoes out of the -water by hand and drop straight into the boiling lard. Turn carefully -from time to time with a knife blade. Remove them with a slice into a -vegetable dish in which there is a strainer (stone for preference), and -place in the oven with an open door till required; but serve as soon -as possible. Never put the cover on the dish or allow the oven door -to be shut as the potatoes would not then keep quite crisp. Never add -salt till ready in the dish, when a little should be sprinkled over the -potatoes. - -For straw potatoes proceed in the same way; only these will require -less time for cooking and will need to be cut very much thinner and -smaller. - -For soufflé potatoes cut them into thin slices and dry them on a clean -cloth. Lay them in a little milk for a moment and then put them into -the boiling fat straight out of the milk. If these directions are -carefully followed there should be a crisp brown bubble on each side -of the slice of the potato. These also must not be covered or have the -oven door closed on them. - -There is also another simple way of treating an old potato. Often -toward the end of the year when one’s potatoes run large and we are -anxious to give a dish a dainty appearance we find that the large -potato served whole looks clumsy. If the potatoes are carefully peeled -and any unsightly blemishes are removed such as the eye or as so often -happens there are bluey patches due to a bruise perhaps on the potatoes -otherwise perfectly sound, the following hint may be found both useful -and economical. Take a stout teaspoon and scoop spoonfuls from the -_outside_ of a big potato. (The broken remains can be used in soup say -either beef or mutton stock. Recipe for this with soups.) When you have -sufficient potatoes ready you can either fry in dripping (in which case -do not attempt to make them crisp) or boil them very gently, or bake -them under a joint, etc. They will be best baked or fried. They can -then be served laid round a dish of fish (fried or boiled) or round a -dish of roast meat previously carved and laid down the centre of a dish -or with kidneys and bacon or with liver and bacon. - -Celery used as a vegetable will be found very palatable cooked in the -following manner. Take two or three heads of celery, wash carefully in -fresh cold water and a little salt, have ready any little beef, veal, -or chicken stock, bring this to a boil and cook the celery in it. From -30 to 40 minutes should be long enough to render the celery soft. Serve -in a vegetable dish with the gravy poured over it, sufficient only to -just cover, having previously stirred a teaspoonful of cornflour mixed -with cold water into it. - -Beet-root may be prepared either cold to serve with cold beef or as a -hot vegetable dish best served with roast mutton. - -For cold, have four or five round small beet-roots washed, handling -them carefully and taking the greatest care not to break off any tender -shoots, and avoiding cutting the leaf-end too near the top of the -beet-root. Have a saucepan large enough to take the beet-root without -breaking it. Boil gently with a good piece of salt from 40 minutes to -an hour, or even a little longer, according to the size. Prick with -a carving fork to see if quite tender, then lay them on a strainer -and when cool enough to hold in the fingers remove the peel and cut -into thin rings. Lay them in a dish of vinegar (a deep glass dish is -best), dust over two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and allow to get -thoroughly cold before serving. The object of the sugar in the vinegar -is to draw the colour out of the beet-root and to remove the sourness. -More or less sugar may be used according to individual taste but the -proportion given is generally right. - -The beet-root already boiled may be used for the following dish: - -Cut into a little thicker slices, then into strips, then into little -squares. Have ready in a deep enamel frying pan a quantity of melted -butter, put the diced beet-root into it with a pinch of salt and a -little cream (or, if not available, a little milk) and bring the -mixture to a boil, taking care not to break the vegetable when stirring -with a knife blade. Mix a teaspoonful of cornflour with a little milk, -stir into the beet-root while on the stove, serve round the dish of -sliced mutton or separately very hot. - -Leeks can often be made to take the place of onions and are a very -useful vegetable cooked in either of the following ways. Take from -twelve to twenty leeks, wash well in cold water, being careful to -remove all grit. It will be found necessary nearly always to split -them, to be sure that they are quite clean. Stew them in beef stock -till quite tender. (This vegetable does not require any soda in the -cooking and is best cooked in stock.) Strain and serve when quite -tender. Another way is to cut each leek into four, lengthwise, and bake -in dripping, as directed to do with the onion. - -The Drumhead or white cabbage has no appearance if cooked only as a -cabbage, but a useful dish may be made in the following manner. Take -a large cabbage, remove the white stiff stalk running down the leaf -with a sharp knife. Put the leaves into a large saucepan of boiling -water, cook as for ordinary cabbage except that the leaves will all -be separate. When tender spread on a large dish to cool. Prepare some -finely minced meat, beef, ham, veal or mutton, chicken or lamb, about -half a teacup of freshly boiled rice salted to taste. (The value of -two tablespoonfuls of rice will be enough to make half a teacup.) The -rice to have been boiled in water and not too soft. Mix with the minced -meat and having spread each cabbage leaf open, fill with the mixture, -leaving enough of the leaf clear to roll round the meat. Have a deep -frying pan on the fire half full of either beef or mutton stock, bring -to a boil and place each stuffed leaf in the stock and cook for ten -minutes; remove with a slice on to a deep dish and serve at once very -hot. - - - - -RECIPES - - - - -BREAKFAST DISHES, ENTRÉES, SAVOURIES, STUFFINGS, SAUCES, HORS D’ŒUVRES, -AND SANDWICHES - - -_General Remarks_ - -Small savouries are useful to lengthen a lunch or dinner without making -the whole meal too heavy. - -Their materials are often what is left over of various dishes. -Therefore the remnants that are kept should be always put away with -care and separated from each other. - -Cut onion should never be kept in the safe containing butter or milk. - -Raw bacon should be laid in the dish on the rind. - -A tin of sardines should never be left open more than twenty-four hours. - -Tinned salmon must be used at once. - -Bottled tomatoes may be partly used and re-corked for a few days. - -Bottled olives must be re-corked tightly after use. Take care that the -liquid covers the olives. The same for capers, chillies, and anchovies. - -The salad basket and potato ricer should be dried on the shelf over the -stove after being wiped. - -When boiling milk enters into the composition of any dish the saucepan -should be first wetted inside with cold water. - - -_1. Omelettes_ - - -_Plain._ Break four new laid eggs into a basin and beat lightly with -a fork. Add a pinch of salt and a dessertspoonful of milk. Have ready -in an enamelled frying pan about half an ounce of hot butter, tilting -the pan to cause the butter to run all over it. Place the pan over -the fire with the stove top on. Pour the beaten eggs into it. Run the -knife round the rim of the omelette. Cook not more than seven minutes. -Sprinkle over a few fine herbs or a little chopped parsley and fold it -over twice on a very hot dish. The omelette when dished should be moist -in the centre. - - -_Truffled._ Prepare the eggs as above. Chop finely three truffles and -beat into the eggs. Cook in the same manner as the plain omelette and -serve with the rest of the bottle of truffles cut in thin slices and -laid down the centre of the omelette after it is folded. - - -_Savoury._ Take the livers of two fowls, one rasher of bacon, a slice -of onion and a pinch of mixed herbs. Melt in the frying pan a piece of -butter about the size of a walnut. Put the livers, bacon, and herbs -into the hot butter. Fry very gently for about seven to ten minutes -and when cooked chop very fine. Cook the omelette as above and spread -the mixture along the middle while still in the pan. Turn the omelette -sides over and serve on a hot dish. - - -_Cheese._ Prepare the eggs as above. Rub on a cheese grater a piece of -Gruyère cheese to make about four tablespoonfuls. Turn the eggs into -the pan. Dust three parts of grated cheese over the omelette whilst -still in the pan. Dish with a slice and dust over it the remainder of -the cheese; fold and place it in the oven for one minute. - - -_Green Peas._ Prepare the eggs as above. Take a teacup of cold cooked -green peas and stir them into the basin with the eggs. Pour into the -hot butter in the pan as for a plain omelette, fold over with the slice -and serve on a hot dish. It will be noticed that sometimes the omelette -will rise in a bubble and smoke. Directly this is noticed pass the -blade of the knife under from the sides and let the air out, otherwise -it will burn. - -Cold potatoes cut into discs can be used instead of the peas for the -omelette. - - -_2. Eggs and Bacon_ - -This dish is perhaps the most appetising breakfast dish and yet often -the most unpleasant on account of the smell. Cooked in the following -way there should be no smell at all. Take the rashers of bacon and -carefully remove all the rind. Use preferably an enamelled frying pan -in which a piece of butter the size of a walnut has been made hot. -Lay the bacon in this. The stove should be hot enough to cook the -bacon with the top on. Turn the bacon twice and cook for eight to -ten minutes. Dish on a hot flat dish. Allow an egg for each rasher, -breaking the eggs lightly without breaking the yolks into a cup one -at a time and turn into the pan. Allow the boiling fat to run round -the eggs. Cook for three minutes and dish with a slice placing one egg -on each rasher of bacon. The pan when removed from the stove must not -be put into the sink as the cold water there will cause it to smell -unpleasantly. - - -_3. Boiled Bacon_ - -Take not less than two pounds cut out of the small back. Plunge in a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Boil briskly for one hour. - -When put on a dish the rind will tear off quite easily. Remove it and -dust the part over thickly with baked breadcrumbs. - - -_4. Sausages_ - -Prick the sausages well with a fork. Lay in a flat meat dish and cook -for twenty to twenty-five minutes not on the stove but in a fairly -quick oven. This prevents all smell and they will be well cooked. - - -_5. Sausage Rolls_ - -Prick one pound of best pork sausages and bake in the oven for twenty -minutes on a flat dish. Cut each sausage lengthwise, roll round each -half a thin rasher of raw bacon, put into a paste (as for meat pie, -rec: 156), wrap in hot buttered paper and bake for another twenty -minutes. - - -_6. Eggs in Gravy_ - -Boil two or three eggs for not longer than three minutes, drop them for -a few seconds into a bowl of cold water to chill them sufficiently to -be held with the fingers. Carefully remove the shell without breaking -the shape of the egg. Lay each carefully in a buttered dish side by -side. The eggs if properly cooked will immediately acquire a flat -shape. Pour over them a little good meat gravy and serve at once. The -eggs thus prepared should not be hard; but it is difficult sometimes -when removing the shell to leave the egg whole. Great care is required. - - -_7. Eggs with Chicken Livers_ - -Put into a little stone marmite dish (fire-proof) a little butter and -half the liver of a good sized fowl. (Two fowls’ livers would make four -or five little dishes.) When the liver is nearly cooked (the little -dishes having been placed each on the hot top plate of the stove), drop -a whole egg without breaking the yolk into each and allow to cook from -three to five minutes. Serve in the dishes in which they have been -cooked. - -Eggs can be also poached in marmite dishes but instead of butter you -must half fill each dish with fresh cream and add a pinch of salt and a -pinch of chopped parsley at the last moment on top of each egg. - - -_8. Herring Roes on Toast_ - -Take the roes from the tin or glass box, gently part with a knife, put -them into a shallow pie-dish with a little pepper and butter. Cover -with dish cover and stand in the oven for ten minutes. Have ready hot -buttered toast and lay the roes on the toast. Put a little white -pepper on them and a tiny scrap of butter and replace in the oven for a -moment before serving. - - -_9. Poached Eggs on Anchovy Toast_ - -Butter several good slices of toast and spread with a little anchovy -paste. Take an egg poacher and put over the fire to boil. Turn an egg -into each ring, being careful not to break the yolk. Cook for three -minutes lightly. Pass the blade of the knife round each rim of the -egg, pinch the machine to open it, the eggs then remaining on the flat -slice. Run the knife under each one and it is easy then to place them -on the toast. - - -_10. Poached Eggs and Tomato Toast_ - -Scald four tomatoes and remove the skin, slice them into a small -enamelled frying pan in which a piece of butter the size of a walnut -has been made hot, a little pepper and salt. Chop them with a knife -whilst frying, thus reducing them to a paste. Spread this over the hot -buttered toast and put a poached egg on the top. - - -_11. Breakfast Dish_ - -Have the paste made ready as for meat pie, take six thin rashers of -bacon and cut them in halves. Roll the paste thin on the board and lay -half a rasher of bacon on each piece of paste. Cut the paste a little -bigger than the bacon. Dust a little finely chopped onion and a tiny -pinch of sweet herbs over each piece of bacon. Roll paste and bacon -together (paste outside) and cook on hot buttered paper for fifteen -minutes in a quick oven. - - -_12. Haricot Breakfast Dish_ - -Put to soak for twelve hours a pint of small haricot beans. Strain them -and pick out the brown ones which are not needed. Turn them into a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water with salt and a little pinch -of soda. Boil gently for two hours, or until quite soft but whole; -strain and put into a stone jar. Cover them with good beef stock. Add -three cut rashers of bacon, fat and lean together, with one slice of -very finely chopped onion and some tomato sauce (made after the recipe -given with skinned tomatoes). Leave in the oven all night and make it -hot in the morning before serving. - - -_13. Devilled Drumsticks_ - -Take four drumsticks of fowls, put half an ounce of fresh butter in an -enamelled frying pan, make it hot and lay the drumsticks in it. Dust -over them a little red pepper and about half a flat teaspoonful of -some good curry powder. Roll them over and over in the butter and dish -with a strainer. - - -_14. Devilled Sheep’s Kidneys on Toast_ - -Remove the skin from say two sheep’s kidneys and cut them in halves. -Put into an enamelled frying pan about half ounce of fresh butter and -make it hot. Lay the kidneys in the butter the cut side down. Cook over -a brisk fire with the stove top off for five minutes. Turn once. Then -replace the stove top and stand the frying pan again on it for five -to ten minutes more. Have ready enough buttered toast to take half -a kidney on each slice of toast. Dust the kidneys with a little red -pepper before placing on the toast. Put on each kidney a little fresh -butter about the size of a pea, place on the toast and serve very hot. -Ox kidney may be used in the same way cut into slices. - - -_15. Croquettes_ - -Chop with a mincer very fine any remains of cold chicken or any cold -meat with one ring of Spanish onion and a tiny pinch of salt and a -drain of meat juice. Stir all this well in a plate, break into the -mixture a freshly beaten egg, add a teaspoonful of finely rubbed -breadcrumbs or rusk crumbs. Roll a tablespoonful at a time into another -freshly beaten egg and then into the rolled rusk crumbs. Form into -short sausage shapes or balls and fry in boiling lard or dripping for -seven to ten minutes. Dish with a slice and serve hot, garnished with a -little parsley. - -Fish croquettes are made in the same way using any fish that may be -left over, after carefully removing all the bones, and adding a little -cold boiled potato. - - -_16. To Dress Cold Fowl_ - -Cut into small pieces, leg generally in two. Put into a saucepan and -cover with milk, first putting a little water in the saucepan to -prevent the milk burning. Grate half a nutmeg, add pepper and salt. -When it has boiled, but not before, slice half of a fairly large -Spanish onion into the saucepan. Boil for three-quarters of an hour. -Thicken before serving with a little flour and butter, which should -be mixed very smooth with a little of the boiling milk out of the -saucepan. Bring to a boil and serve in the saucepan with a napkin -wrapped round it. - - -_17. Shepherd’s Pie_ - -Cut the remains of any cold roast beef into small pieces and place in -a dish. Slice about a quarter of a Spanish onion finely on the top, -add two tomatoes cut very small, pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful -of Worcester sauce, half a teaspoonful of bovril stirred in half a -teacupful of water, or a little meat juice. Place in the oven uncovered -for a quarter of an hour. Then take out and fill up the dish with -mashed potatoes. Place a few thin slices of onion on the top, a piece -of butter, and replace in the oven for three-quarters of an hour so as -to brown the top nicely. - - -_18. Tripe and Onions_ - -Wash in cold water and remove all fat from two pounds of fresh tripe -and cut into narrow strips about two inches long. Melt in an enamelled -frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter turning the tripe into -it. Fry lightly, not allowing to brown. Dish with a slice into a -stone saucepan, leaving the butter in the pan. In the same butter fry -lightly one and a half Spanish onions sliced and add to the tripe in -the saucepan, with a little salt and a glass of sherry, one piece of -loaf sugar, and a finely cut up carrot. Add enough water to cover and -stew gently for one and a half hours. Thicken with a little flour mixed -smooth with cold water and serve in the stone saucepan with a table -napkin tied round it. - - -_Note._ Pig’s trotters may be added to this dish but in this case they -must be soaked for two hours before cooking and added to the tripe when -cooked. - - -_19. Haricot Mutton_ - -Soak a pint of small haricot beans overnight, carefully pick out the -brown ones and rinse through three waters in the morning. Have ready a -metal saucepan with about three pints of water. When boiling, pour the -haricots into it with a good pinch of salt and a small piece of soda. -Boil gently for two and a half hours. They are then ready to be added -to the mutton. Cut into small pieces two or three pounds of best end of -neck of mutton, remove the fat and put the meat into a stone saucepan, -cover with water, add one turnip cut into long pieces, one Spanish -onion, pepper and salt and a pinch of fine herbs. Remove the scum as it -rises and cook for two hours. Add then the beans which should be quite -soft and peel of their own accord when exposed to the air. Thicken -with a little carefully mixed flour and water and serve in the stone -saucepan with a table napkin wrapped round it. - - -_20. Sweetbreads_ - -Soak for half an hour two sweetbreads in cold water with a pinch of -salt. Drop them in boiling water. After twenty minutes take them out, -remove the skin and roll them first in a well-beaten egg and then in -rolled rusk crumbs. Bake in a tin in a quick oven for three-quarters -of an hour with a large piece of butter or dripping. Place on a dish -and after turning the fat out of the tin put in a little good meat -juice and bring it to a boil over the fire. Add then a little smoothly -mixed flour and water and when thickened sufficiently strain through a -gravy strainer over the sweetbreads. Serve very hot. - - -_21. Sweetbreads--Another Way_ - -Soak for half an hour in cold water with a pinch of salt, then drop -them into boiling water. At the end of twenty minutes take out and, -after removing the outer skin, cut into slices. Have ready some fresh -butter in an enamelled frying pan. Fry the sliced sweetbreads lightly -for a quarter of an hour. Lay on a dish and squeeze a little lemon -juice on each slice allowing a quarter of a lemon for the whole of the -sweetbread. - - -_22. Steak and Kidney Pudding_ - -Take one and a half pounds of thick steak and cut into pieces of about -an inch. Have an ox kidney cut into small pieces and a basin well -buttered. With half a pound of beef suet, chopped fine, and two and a -half to three breakfast-cups of self-raising flour, make a stiff paste, -mixing with tepid water. Line the basin with the paste. Put the steak -and kidney in, add about half a teaspoonful of salt, sprinkle a little -dry flour over the meat, put the crust on and cover the basin with a -wet cloth which should be tied securely with string. Boil for three and -a half hours. At the end of that time take the cloth off and serve in -the basin (stood in a dish) with a fluted paper collar round it. Make a -small hole in the top of the pudding and pour in about half a teacupful -of hot gravy made from any small pieces of meat left over before -serving. - - -_23. Calf’s Kidney on Toast_ - -Skin and split in two a calf’s kidney. Melt in a frying pan about an -ounce of fresh butter, and place the kidney in this with one very thin -slice of Spanish onion for each half of kidney--one rasher of bacon, -chopped very fine, to be put in the pan also. Cook as for sheep’s -kidneys, but without the red pepper. Prepare some hot toast, lay upon -it the slice of onion, which should be kept whole if possible, and -then the kidney. Dust a little portion of the bacon over it with a -little pepper and salt. Turn the butter out of the pan, put a little -meat juice from under the dripping (about an egg-cupful) and half a -tablespoonful of white wine, the juice of a quarter of a lemon (half -a teaspoonful of vinegar will serve if the lemon is not available), -thicken with a little flour and water (first mixed smooth), and pour -through a gravy strainer over the kidney. Serve very hot. The best way -to prepare the toast is as follows:-- - -Take as many pieces of dry bread as required and fry quickly in a -little good dripping to a crisp brown. It should then remain quite -crisp even when the gravy is turned over it. - - -_24. Bacon Pudding_ - -About half a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, two and a half -breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour and a pinch of salt, must be -mixed with tepid water into a nice elastic paste. Cut half a pound of -bacon (fat and lean together) into narrow long strips, slice thinly one -fair-sized Spanish onion into rings, and chop about eight leaves of -sage very fine. Roll the paste in small pieces to form layers in the -basin which must be greased by putting in a good-sized piece of butter -and allowing it to stand on the top of the stove until the butter has -melted and every part of the basin has had the hot butter run over it. -This will prevent the pudding adhering to the basin. Put one layer of -paste in the basin, then a layer of bacon and onion and just a little -sage sprinkled over the top, then another layer of paste, and so on -till all the bacon and onion are used up. Then put on the top layer of -paste which must quite fill the basin, and tie the pudding securely in -a freshly wetted pudding cloth. Care must be taken that the cloth is -not drawn too tight over the pudding and that the basin is full or the -water will get in and spoil the dish. The pudding must be immersed in -boiling water and boiled for three hours. At the end of that time turn -it out on a hot dish and serve with a little clear melted butter in a -sauce boat. - - -_25. Veal or Beef Olives_ - -It is often found inconvenient to cook a joint in a hurry (or the joint -may be found to be too large) when the following recipe will be found -useful. Cut a slice of about an inch thick off the round of beef or -fillet of veal, cut that into five or six pieces and flatten well with -a knife. Chop finely about half a Spanish onion, a few sweet herbs, and -pepper and salt, and put a little of these on each piece of meat and -cover with half a rasher of bacon. Tie each piece securely with string. -Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a frying pan over a clear fire and -when ready lay the olives in it. Fry briskly for three minutes, turn -over once and fry for the same length of time, then cover with another -frying pan, inverted, and fry for another ten to fifteen minutes. -Place the meat on a dish and remove the strings gently, cutting with -scissors. Put into the frying pan about half a teacupful of good meat -juice, a tablespoonful of white wine, a little salt, thicken with a -little flour and pour over the olives. They will keep their shape and -should be served with some nicely prepared vegetables, either beans, -peas, or potatoes. - - -_26. Pigeons with Carrots_ - -Split the roasted pigeons in halves and lay cut side down in a stone -saucepan with half a claret glass of white wine, pepper and salt, -with four carrots cut lengthwise, each into eight pieces then cut -across. Add a little good meat juice. Put enough water to just cover -the pigeons. Stew gently for three-quarters of an hour. Thicken with a -little flour and water and serve in the stone saucepan, or in a deep -dish. - - -_27. Ragoût of Veal_ - -Cut into small pieces two pounds of neck of veal. Put into a saucepan -and cover with cold water, and a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, -one piece of loaf sugar, six spring onions, bottoms and green tops, six -small carrots split in two, and one small turnip. Stew gently for one -and a half to two hours, adding a little water if required. Half an -hour before serving add a half pint of fresh green peas, a pinch of -mixed herbs, half a glass of white wine. Thicken with a little smoothly -mixed flour and water, stirred into the veal. Best served in the -earthenware saucepan, with a napkin tied round it. If green peas are -not available a little Patna rice may be used after it has been washed -through several waters; or a few cut scarlet runners. Cold veal may be -treated as above but in that case a little good meat juice must be used -instead of the extra half pint of water. - - -_28. Rump Steak and Kidney Pie with Mushrooms or Truffles_ - -For a pie for four persons take a pound and a half of rump steak and -half an ox kidney. Cut into nice pieces with a little fat but no -gristle. Put it all in a deep pie-dish, with pepper and salt and the -contents of a small bottle of truffles cut in small pieces (or eight -mushrooms). Flour rather thickly over the top and add a little water to -the side of the dish so that it runs underneath the meat (and half a -teaspoonful of mushroom catsup if with mushrooms), cover with another -smaller pie-dish which should allow a small opening at the sides so as -to let the steam escape. Cook for three-quarters of an hour in a brisk -oven and meantime rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or lard, -into two and a half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour with a -little salt, and mix with a little milk to an elastic paste. When ready -take the dish out of the oven and stir the meat and the flour together. -The pie will then be ready for the crust. Butter the rim of the dish -while still hot. Lay a strip of paste all round and moisten with a -little milk to make the top crust adhere. Bake in a quick oven for -half an hour. It is important that the meat should be cooked first as -otherwise it will either be underdone or the crust will be overcooked. -Do not forget to make a hole in the middle of the top crust before -baking. - - -_29. Kidney Sauté_ - -Remove the fatty centre of an ox kidney, cut the kidney into thin -slices and dice it on a pastry board on which has been poured a good -handful of flour. Rub the diced kidney well into the flour so that it -looks all white. Put it into a stone saucepan, add pepper and salt, a -little scraped carrot, one good-sized onion stuck with three cloves, -and cover with cold water. Stir the kidney so as to remove all the -flour into the water, which should look like milk. Cook in a quick oven -for two hours. This might be cooked in the morning and made warm in the -evening. Remove onion before serving. - - -_30. Kidney Sauté--Another Way_ - -Take one or two sheep’s kidneys, skin and split them. Lay each half, -flat side down, in a frying pan with an ounce of butter or dripping, -heated. Place on a quick fire, add one or two slices of onion cut thin, -pepper and salt. Remove from the fire and cut the kidneys up. Place -again on the stove, add a teaspoonful of bovril, a little Worcester -sauce (one teaspoonful), mix smoothly a dessertspoonful of flour with -water, add half a breakfast-cup of hot water to the kidneys. Stir and -keep boiling twenty minutes, and serve hot, either alone or within a -wall of freshly mashed potatoes. - - -_31. Kidneys in Onions_ - -To those who are fond of an onion there is hardly a more appetising -dish than onions prepared in the following manner. Take four or five -decent-sized sound onions. Small Spanish are the best. Cut rather a -deep slice off the top after removing the outer skin. You can then take -the centre out; say you remove half the onion leaving about four of -the thicknesses. Have ready two or three sheep’s kidneys prepared in -the following manner: Skin each kidney and split it. Sprinkle lightly -pepper and salt on the split side. Put into a frying pan a little -dripping or butter, lay the kidney flat side first in the boiling -fat, place the pan on a quick fire and fry lightly, turning twice. As -onion requires a lot of cooking it is best to put the prepared onion -cases into boiling dripping and cook in a quick oven twenty-five -minutes. Then place the kidney (half in each onion) and replace in the -oven in the baking tin another ten minutes. Care should be taken not -to overcook the kidney so that the gravy runs into the onion as it -finishes cooking. Serve very hot in a stone dish. - - -_32. Jugged Hare_ - -Cut the hare up. Rub the pieces in flour. Put one and a half ounces -of butter into a large enamelled frying pan, and lightly fry the hare -for ten minutes. Then place your hare in a stone jar with one Spanish -onion stuck with three cloves, some salt, a piece of loaf sugar, and a -little finely scraped carrot. Add two glasses of port wine and a little -Worcester sauce. Cover the jar with a plate and stand in a quick oven -for three hours. Dish into a flat dish, garnish all round with half -slices of lemon and serve with currant jelly. - - -_33. Yorkshire Pudding for Baked Beef or Mutton_ - -Separate the white of one egg from the yolk. Put the latter in an -earthenware bowl and stir it lightly. Beat the white separately with a -freshly cleaned knife in a plate. It is most important that a perfectly -clean knife be used or the white of the egg will not rise. Beat it to a -stiff froth and stir it into the yolk of the egg; and only afterwards -add half a teacupful of milk and a little pepper and salt. - -Stir in a breakfast-cupful of self-raising flour vigorously and work -it perfectly smooth. If it is not then quite the consistency of very -thick cream add a little milk to make it so. Turn into a baking tin and -bake under the meat, which would be already three parts cooked then. -Do not forget to turn most of the fat out of the baking tin before the -pudding is poured in. Three-quarters of an hour is the time required -for cooking a Yorkshire pudding. - - -_34. Welsh Rarebit_ - -Take half a pound of good Cheddar cheese, not too strong, and cut it -into a flat meat dish with pepper and salt. Pour over a sufficient -quantity of bottled ale to fill the dish. Stand in a quick oven and -bake until the cheese is all melted. Have ready some buttered toast -about a quarter of an inch thick. Remove the cheese from the dish -leaving the beer and spread the cheese lightly on the toast. Replace in -the oven, and serve very hot. The object of the beer is to flavour the -cheese only and if the cheese were to be cooked in a frying pan over -the fire it would absorb all the beer and be rendered very bitter. - - -_35. Spaghetti_ - -Put half a pound of spaghetti into boiling water with a good pinch of -salt. If you carefully put the spaghetti upright in the saucepan and -give them a twist they won’t break. Boil gently, being careful to add -boiling water as needed to keep the same amount. It is important never -to add cold water as that chills the spaghetti and causes it to become -tough. Cook for one hour and meantime prepare the following sauce: - -Put six good-sized tomatoes cut in quarters into a saucepan (or a -pudding basin may be used in the oven), with one large round of Spanish -onion chopped fine, three pieces of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt and -pepper, half a bottle of tomato catsup, and an ounce of fresh butter. -Stew gently on the side of the stove for three-quarters of an hour. -Strain all the water off the spaghetti with the lid, into a salad bowl -(or good-sized dish), stir in the tomato sauce which has been strained -thoroughly, and serve very hot with some grated cheese in another dish. - - -_36. Risotto_ - -Remove all the fat from a pint of good clear beef or mutton stock and -put it on the stove to boil. Wash a teacupful of Patna rice through -four waters and put it into the boiling stock and cook for half an -hour gently. Chop two thin rashers of bacon into small pieces, add -half an onion chopped very finely and put this into the stock while -it is boiling. Care should be taken, if the stock is already salted, -that very little salt is added. Drain the rice dry and have ready a -teacupful of Parmesan and Gruyère cheese (grated) and some good tomato -sauce made with skinned tomatoes. Stir the cheese and tomato sauce into -the rice in the saucepan and have ready some stone or metal moulds -rinsed in cold water but not wiped. Put some of the mixture into each -mould and place in a cold place for about two hours. Then put the -moulds into the oven with a dish over the top and serve when hot. - - -_37. Cauliflower au Gratin_ - -Remove all the stump of a young cauliflower and boil for fifteen -minutes in a large saucepan with a pinch of salt and a small pinch -of soda. When cooked, turn it into a cullender and break it into -small pieces (not too small) on a flat pie-dish. Take one and a half -tablespoonfuls of butter. Have ready half a pint of milk boiling. -Turn the boiling milk into the paste and stir well till quite smooth. -Put it back in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir four good -tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese into the sauce and turn it over -the cauliflower in the dish. Dust a little more cheese over it and -stand the dish in a quick oven for ten minutes to brown. The browning -can also be done with a Salamander. - - -_38. Macaroni au Gratin_ - -Have ready three pints of freshly boiling water with a good pinch of -salt in a saucepan for about half a pound of straight macaroni which -must be broken up to a convenient size. Macaroni should always be put -straight into boiling water. Boil gently for forty minutes to an hour -but be careful not to let it boil over, adding boiling water from time -to time as the macaroni swells. Strain the water off with the lid, and -stir into the saucepan a breakfast-cupful of grated Gruyère cheese -(a little grated Parmesan cheese is a great improvement added to the -Gruyère). Turn into a stone dish. Dust a little more cheese over the -top, put a piece of butter about the size of two good-sized walnuts and -place in a quick oven to brown slightly. - - -_39. Marrow Toast_ - -Take some good marrow bones and tie the ends in freshly scalded muslin -after previously salting slightly the end where the marrow is. Put them -into a large saucepan of boiling water with a cut onion. Boil for one -hour and then take the bones out. Remove the muslin and take the marrow -out on to a plate and season with a little pepper and salt and spread -on hot buttered toast. Replace in oven for a few minutes and serve very -hot. This makes a good savoury dish. - - -_40. Sage and Onion Stuffing_ - -(_For goose, fowl, beef, veal, or breast of mutton_) - -Put into an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter -ready for melting. (Salt butter always leaves a deposit in the pan -which causes the things to burn.) Take five large Spanish onions, cut -carefully on a board into thin slices, and put into the hot butter. -Place on the fire with the stove top on and boil for half an hour -without allowing them to brown. Take the soft part of one loaf, rub it -fine on a grater, chop ten or twelve large leaves of sage, mix with the -breadcrumbs, pour the onion hot into the centre, mix thoroughly and -stuff. - -This stuffing will be found not to smell in the cooking, or to be -unpleasant after eating. - - -_41. Truffled Stuffing for Fowls_ - -For two fowls take the soft part of half a loaf of bread, eight small -sprigs of parsley (not the stalk), the yolk of one egg, the livers of -the fowls, one rasher of bacon not too fat, pepper and salt, one round -of Spanish onion, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and one -small bottle of truffles. Rub the bread very fine on a cheese-grater -and chop onion and parsley very small. Fry the liver, bacon, and onion -very lightly, chop them very small and turn on to the board to mix -thoroughly with crumbs. Add the chopped truffles and a piece of butter, -break the yolk of the egg into it and stir the mixture well when the -stuffing will be ready to put into the fowl. - - -_42. Sauce Piquante for Leg of Mutton Cutlets_ - -After dishing the cutlets (rec: 86) turn the butter out of the pan and -put a little water into it as meat juice adheres to the pan. Into this -put a slice of Spanish onion chopped very fine, half a claret glass of -white wine, the juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper, half -a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Thicken with half a teaspoonful of -carefully mixed flour and water. Place the pan over the fire and bring -the mixture to boiling point, no more. Take it off and strain through a -gravy strainer over the meat and serve at once. - - -_43. Horseradish Cream_ - -Have a nice fresh horseradish rubbed finely on a coarse cheese-grater -having sufficient radish when grated for three large tablespoonfuls. -Place it in a basin and add half a large teacupful of thick cream. Stir -well and add three good teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little salt, -and one and a half tablespoonfuls of good malt vinegar. Serve with cold -roast or boiled beef in a sauce boat. Never add anything to the radish -till the cream has been well stirred in and always add the vinegar last. - - -_44. Mustard Sauce_ - -This sauce has the great advantage that it does not require any cooking -and can be produced within a few moments if desired. - -Two yolks of eggs carefully separated from the whites and placed in a -stone basin, and two teaspoonfuls of dry mustard stirred together till -perfectly smooth with two large tablespoonfuls of best salad oil and -two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle -on it a little finely chopped parsley the last thing. - - -_45. Sauce Piquante_ - -Two or three thin slices of Spanish onion fried lightly in a little -good beef dripping. Two large tablespoonfuls of bovril added to the -onion which must be allowed to adhere lightly to the pan. Half a teacup -of hot water and a tablespoonful of best malt vinegar. Let the whole -come to a boil and thicken slightly with a little carefully mixed flour -and water. Strain and serve in a sauce boat. - - -_46. Egg and Lemon Sauce for Fish or Calf’s Head_ - -Melt in an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter, add -quickly the yolks of two eggs and half a teacup of fresh cream. The -object of adding the cream with the yolks of the eggs is to prevent -the egg from becoming solid. Stir well together with a little salt the -juice of one lemon and a little milk. This sauce should be thick enough -without any added thickening. - - -_47. Apple Sauce_ - -Put six apples cut very small into a stone saucepan with a little cold -water. Add a teacupful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter. -Stew gently for one hour. Strain off some of the juice with the lid of -the saucepan and beat the apples with a fork until reduced to a paste. - - -_48. Tomato Sauce_ - -Put the tomatoes into a deep basin or jug and scald with boiling water. -They can then be peeled easily, the skin coming off like a glove from -the hand. Place in a rather deep frying pan with half an ounce of -butter and a piece of loaf sugar, pepper and salt. Mash with knife till -fairly smooth and serve, after steaming, with cutlets, veal, or mutton. - - -_49. Sauce Ravigotte_ - -(_For cold meat or boiled calves’ feet, cold_) - -Chop together very small the yolk and white of one hard-boiled egg, add -the yolk of one raw one, six spring onions, a little parsley, pepper -and salt. Mix with one tablespoonful of vinegar and two of best salad -oil. - - -_50. Bread Sauce_ - -Peel and cut into quarters one onion and let it simmer in a pint of -milk till perfectly tender. Break one-fourth pound stale bread into -small pieces or grate it into crumbs, put it into a clean saucepan and -strain the milk from the onion over it; cover it with the lid and let -it remain an hour to soak. Beat it briskly with a fork, add a little -salt, a small pinch of cayenne pepper and either a little cream or a -piece of butter the size of a walnut. - - -_51. Brandy Sauce for Christmas Pudding_ - -Bring to a boil half a pint of milk, mix in a large basin one -tablespoonful of cornflour with a little cold milk, to a very stiff -paste, pour into it the boiling milk, stirring one way all the time, -add two large tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, two wineglasses of -brandy and serve in a sauce boat, very hot. _Note_: If the cornflour -is mixed very stiff and the milk is poured in while boiling, the sauce -will thicken and there will be no need to return it to the saucepan to -boil again. - - -_52. Curries_ - - -_Rice._ The cooking of rice is the principal part in preparing a dish -of curry. - -The rice must be snowy white in appearance and so dry when cooked that -each grain is perfectly detached. - -Wash your rice in ten waters so as to get rid of all floury dust. Have -a saucepan ready with boiling water (in the proportion of three pints -to a quarter of a pound of rice) with a good pinch of salt. Pour the -rice into the saucepan and boil fast with the lid partly off (so that -it does not boil over) for twelve minutes. Drain off nearly all the -water, then shutting the lid tight, put the saucepan at the side of the -stove for the rice to finish cooking in its own steam. At the end of -twenty minutes the rice will be cooked and dry. Care must be taken not -to let it burn. - - -_Curried Eggs._ Fry lightly together one large Spanish onion cut -into rings and one or two tomatoes cut in four for about ten minutes -without allowing the onion to brown. Add a little good beef stock and -go on cooking in the frying pan for another twenty minutes, add then a -tablespoonful or more of curry powder and stir in the sauce. Four to -six hard-boiled eggs each cut into four are to be laid in the centre -of the frying pan and sauce turned over them with a spoon, after being -thickened with a little flour and water mixed smoothly. At the end of -five minutes lay the eggs down the centre of a dish and pour the curry -over them. - -For meats or chicken, which would be already cooked, or for prawn -curries, proceed as above but take care to put meat or prawns in the -pan ten minutes after the stock has been added, and boil for ten -minutes before adding the curry and five minutes more afterwards. - - -_53. Mayonnaise_ - -_For Salmon, Lobster, and Cold Fowl_ - - -_Salmon._ Cover with cold water in an earthenware saucepan two pounds -of salmon cutlets. A strainer should be laid at the bottom of the -saucepan. Add a little salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Cook for -thirty minutes. Dish on a flat dish and place on ice. Arrange on a bed -of sliced cucumber and lettuce and pour the mayonnaise over. - -To make the mayonnaise put the yolks of two eggs in a pastry bowl, and, -while stirring with a spoon, keep adding drop by drop the best Lucca -salad oil to the amount of a teacupful. When all the oil is used, stir -in a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. It is imperative that nothing -should be added to the yolks before the oil, or the mayonnaise will -not rise. For the same reason you must stir always the same way. To -make a larger quantity add half a teacupful of oil for each yolk, and a -quarter of a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. If possible a mayonnaise -should not be made more than half an hour before it is required. - - -_Fowl._ The chicken should be carved and laid on a bed of mixed salad -with a few slices of beet-root round the outside of the dish. - - -_Lobster._ The lobster should be taken out of the shell and laid on a -bed of lettuce. - - -_54. Salmon and Cucumber Sandwiches_ - -Pound some fresh salmon in a mortar with a drain of anchovy sauce. -Spread it lightly on some thin bread and butter. Add a couple of thin -slices of cucumber and a little salt. Salmon and shrimp paste can be -used if preferred. - - -_55. Prawn Sandwiches_ - -Cut thin some bread and butter. Cut the prawns very fine and lay them -on the buttered bread with a little mustard and cress, pepper and salt. - - -_56. Sardine Sandwiches_ - -Scrape the sardines and remove the bones. Take eight slices of toast -about an inch thick, trim round the edges, and split with a knife. -Butter lightly while hot and lay the sardines between the split toast -not too thickly. Add a little red or white pepper if preferred and then -close the toast which should be then cut into two and served hot. - - -_57. Sardines on Toast_ - -Take the sardines out of the box and scrape off the scales, split them -and remove the backbone. Lay two sardines (four halves) on each slice -of buttered toast, sprinkle with a little red pepper and place in the -oven. Serve very hot. - - -_58. Beef and Tomato Sandwiches_ - -Take a sandwich loaf and cut the crust off on three sides. Pass the -knife down between the back crust and the crumb and slice the bread -against it. Butter each slice of bread and lay a thin slice of beef on -it, then a thin slice of tomato. Lay the other bread and butter on the -top with a pinch of pepper and salt. - - -_59. Caviare Savoury_ - -Take some slices of buttered toast, spread lightly with caviare and put -into the oven for a few seconds before serving. - - -_60. Hard-Boiled Eggs for Garniture of Sandwiches_ - -Have the water boiling, put the eggs into it and boil for fifteen -minutes quickly. Remove with a spoon and plunge them into cold water; -if the eggs are fresh this should avoid the green line which usually -forms round the white. - - -_61. Hors d’œuvres_ - -Hors d’œuvres make a nice beginning to a meal, do not give much trouble -to prepare, and dress the table laid out for lunch in an interesting -manner. My practice was to use four to six glass dishes. - - -_Sardines._ Remove carefully from the tin and lay on the dish with -their tails in the middle of the dish and the head part of the fish -towards the outer edge of the dish. - - -_Anchovies._ The French ones bottled in oil are the most profitable and -will keep quite a long time if carefully corked and the oil covers the -fish. Unroll them and split them lengthwise, laying them four or five -lengths one way of the dish and four or five the other, leaving little -squares of the dish visible. Fill each of these with the chopped up -white of an egg boiled hard. - -A caviare hors d’œuvre should be served in the pot, packed in crushed -ice and plain toast provided on the table for it. - - -_Stuffed Eggs._ Have three or four eggs boiled hard. Place them in a -basin of cold water. Remove the shells as soon as they are cool enough -to hold in the fingers. Rinse in the water and cut each egg across the -middle, and cut a thin slice from each rounded end of the egg to enable -it to stand in an upright position. Remove the yolks into a plate and -mash them with a dinner fork, adding two teaspoonfuls of anchovy -sauce (bottled), one tablespoonful of cream, half a teaspoonful of dry -mustard. Work all together with the fork, and when perfectly mixed, -fill in the whites with the mixture. Cut a French olive into strips -lengthwise round the stone and place one piece across the top of each -egg to resemble a handle. - - -_Eggs with a Mayonnaise Sauce._ Cut lengthwise four hard-boiled eggs -after removing the shells as directed and lay them white side up on -the dish, which must be rather deep. Make a little mayonnaise sauce -(proportion of one yolk of an egg to half a teacup of salad oil stirred -into it drop by drop and half a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar), pour -the sauce over the eggs. - - -_Beet-root._ Boiled whole and cut into thin rings, pour over it a -little vinegar and dust a little powdered sugar on it and a little -finely chopped onion. - - -_Tomatoes._ Skinned and prepared as directed for tomato salad. - - -_Celery._ Cut or rather curled as you would peel rhubarb and dressed -either with oil and vinegar or with a little mayonnaise sauce to which -has been added half a teaspoonful of dry mustard. - -Then there are olives, stuffed or otherwise, tunny fish or smoked -salmon which can be bought in small tins and do not require any -dressing. Simply serve on the dish. - - -_62. Chocolate_ - -Place a quarter of a pound of Chocolate Menier in a stone saucepan for -ten minutes covered with cold water. Let it stand on the side of the -stove. Work it into a smooth paste and add water or milk to make it a -pint. No sugar. Place it over the fire and bring it to a boil. Do this -six times, lifting it from the fire each time it boils. - - -_63. Coffee for Four Persons_ - -Put into an earthenware saucepan a teacupful of roasted coffee freshly -ground, and pour over one pint and a half of boiling water. Bring to a -boil twice. Tip a tablespoonful of cold water into the boiling coffee. -Let it stand for five minutes and strain through a strainer into a -warmed coffee pot. - - - - -SOUPS, STOCKS - - -_General Remarks_ - -If the vegetables are used for flavouring only, they may remain in -the soup all the time it is cooking. If, on the other hand, they are -intended to be dished in the soup they should be put in only in time to -be cooked thoroughly. - -Every kitchen should contain in a cupboard always a bottle of cooking -sherry, a bottle of mushroom catsup, one of Worcester sauce, one of -tomato (bottled) sauce, some fresh lemons, vinegar, the best salad oil, -a packet of sweet herbs, bovril, nutmeg, cloves, and spice. - -The object in adding sugar is to clear the soup or stock and will be -found as effective as eggshells. - -In preserving stocks for soups, gravies, etc., care should be taken -never to allow the receptacle containing it to be covered--after it is -strained--except with a perforated meat cover. - -Stock cannot be kept for more than two days without being reboiled. -Never neglect to dash cold water into it while still boiling or the -object of settling the solid particles and raising the fat will not be -attained. - - -_64. Beef Tea_ - -Take one pound of leg of beef not fat. One pound makes about a pint of -good beef tea. Cut the meat several times across, taking care not to -cut it through. Sprinkle with a half teaspoonful of salt, put into a -stone jar or saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, add one and a half -pints of cold water and place in a steady oven to cook for two hours. -Always put it into the oven as soon as it is prepared as the salt -otherwise would draw the juice out of the meat. Directly it is cooked, -dash about one tablespoonful of cold water into it. Place in a cold -place for the fat to rise, remove with a sheet of white paper the fat -which will have risen to the top and make hot as required. - - -_65. Mutton Broth_ - -This can apply to either the short ends of cutlet bones, the shank -end of a leg of mutton, or the scrag end of the neck. Remove the fat -and place, with an onion (not cut), into a saucepan a turnip cut into -small pieces, a pinch of salt, one piece of loaf sugar, and if no fresh -parsley is obtainable a pinch of mixed sweet herbs that have been -rinsed in cold water. (If herbs are used they must be added as soon as -the broth boils; if fresh parsley it should never be added till it is -within ten minutes of being ready to serve.) More salt may be added -to taste. Bring to a boil quickly and then put a quarter teacupful of -washed pearl barley into it and boil gently for three and a half hours. -Strain and serve. - -It will be noticed that some of the soup will boil away and a little -hot water will have to be added. This broth can be made with the -remains of cold potatoes added instead of the barley, in which case it -requires to be stirred through a cullender so as to avoid any pieces of -potato remaining whole. - - -_66. Chicken Broth_ - -Take the remains of any cold chicken, giblets, feet, and put into an -earthenware saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt, -one small onion (whole), cover with cold water. Keep boiling gently -for three hours adding from time to time a little water to keep the -saucepan about half full. Strain through a cullender and put in the -larder to get cool, after adding a little cold water to make the fat -rise to the top. - - -_67. Lentil or Split-Pea Soup_ - -If for pea soup, take the bone of a ham, or the small bones of a piece -of pickled pork and add about a quart of cold water and one onion. -Have ready two large teacupfuls of split peas (that have soaked for -two hours). Boil steadily for three or four hours, stirring from time -to time to prevent burning. Strain through a cullender and serve with -fried bread, very hot. Proceed in the same way for lentil soup, only in -that case the bones of either beef or veal may be used instead of pork. - - -_68. White Bean Soup_ - -Have ready one pint of white beans boiled soft in water with a piece of -common soda the size of a pea. Put them into a saucepan with remains of -cold meat--beef, mutton, or veal--one uncut onion, one turnip, pepper -and salt to taste, and if not objected to, a few cold potatoes. Boil -gently about three hours, then pass the whole through a fine cullender -to strain the skins from the beans. Replace in a saucepan and bring -to a boil; then serve very hot. Have ready some slices of stale bread -about half an inch thick cut into dice. Have a little beef (or veal) -dripping, bring to a boil in an enamel frying pan and drop the bread in -while it boils, fry till a light brown and quite crisp. Serve in a hot -dish with a strainer under. This bread is good for either pea, lentil, -haricot, or potato soup. - - -_69. Chicken Soup_ - -Take the remains of any cold roast or boiled fowls, salt and pepper to -taste; a whole onion, half a rasher of very lean bacon, one piece of -loaf sugar, one quart of water. Put all together into a saucepan and -bring to a boil, keeping the meat or bones covered. Boil two hours. -Take one and a half flat tablespoonfuls of flour, one ounce of fresh -butter, and put the butter and flour into a smooth china or earthenware -bowl (enamel bowl will do), work the two together with a tablespoon -till a perfectly smooth paste is made, then pour the soup through a -cullender on to the paste, stirring all the time; add a little milk and -if possible a little fresh cream. Replace the soup in the saucepan, put -it back on the stove and stir one way till it boils, when it is ready -to serve. - - -_70. Game Soup_ - -Take a rabbit and wash it in a little water with a pinch of salt, then -cut it up. Put it into a stone saucepan with one quart to three pints -cold water, salt and pepper to taste, one piece of loaf sugar, one -onion whole (or three or four spring onions), one carrot, about half -a pound of gravy beef, and the remains of any cold game. Boil gently -for three hours, strain, and place in the saucepan again, bring to a -boil, thicken with flour and butter mixed as for chicken soup, bring -to a boil while stirring. Strain and serve. If not dark enough add -teaspoonful of bovril. - - -_71. Asparagus Soup_ - -Take the remains of cold veal, the bottom ends of asparagus, one onion, -salt and pepper, one piece of loaf sugar, and two pints of cold water. -Let it boil gently for three hours. Have ready, well mixed into a -smooth paste, two tablespoonfuls of flour with one and a half ounces -of fresh butter. Strain the soup, while still boiling, through a -strainer on to the paste, stir gently till perfectly smooth, add half -a teacupful of cream and a little milk. Care should be taken that the -soup is not too thick or thin. Replace in the saucepan and stir gently -over a clear fire till it boils. It is then ready to serve and should -be perfectly smooth. - - -_72. Tomato Soup_ - -Take the remains of cold chicken, beef, or veal; add two pounds of -fresh tomatoes cut into slices, one onion, pepper and salt, five pieces -of sugar. Put all into a stone saucepan and boil gently two hours (in -about a quart of water); have ready the same mixture of butter and -flour as for asparagus soup, strain the tomato soup on to it, add the -half teacupful of cream and a little milk, put back into the saucepan -and stir till it boils. This should be about a quart of soup. - -It will be noticed that most of these recipes are made with the remains -of cold meat instead of buying especially to make the soup, and in this -way most things can be used up without any waste. - - -_73. Clear Ox Tail Soup_ - -Soak a fresh ox tail in cold water for two hours. Then cut at each -joint, remove all the fat, and lay in three pints of cold water in -a saucepan with a pinch of salt, two pieces of loaf sugar, and a -teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Boil for three hours, then add one -sliced carrot and a finely cut onion; boil for another half hour. The -soup is then ready to be served with the meat in it. - - -_74. Thick Ox Tail Soup_ - -Proceed in the same manner as for the clear soup, adding a good -teacupful of strong beef stock. Put in whole an onion and a carrot with -a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Boil for three hours, then dash in a -cupful of cold water and remove from the fire to stand in a cool place. -Carefully remove all the fat and the vegetables. Bring the soup to a -boil again and add a carrot cut into oblong pieces, boil for another -half hour, thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water, and -serve with the meat in it. - - -_75. Julienne Soup_ - -Take one pound of lean gravy beef not cut up, put it into a saucepan -with one piece of loaf sugar, an onion (whole), a little pepper and -salt, and three pints of water. Boil for two hours. Dash a teacupful -of cold water in to cause the fat to rise. Allow it to cool, skim the -fat, and strain the soup into another saucepan. Put in one carrot, cut -into slices and then into tiny strips, half a turnip, in strips, and -a few green peas. These last may be from a bottle if it is impossible -to obtain the fresh. Boil for half an hour and serve the soup with -the vegetables in it. This soup will turn out perfectly clear if the -directions are carefully followed. - - -_76. To Use Roast Beef Bone for Soup_ - -Remove all the fat; put the bone in a saucepan with about a quart of -water, a piece of loaf sugar (to clear it), salt, pepper, one carrot -cut into narrow strips, one onion sliced, and a little cut cabbage. -Boil steadily for an hour and a half. Remove the bone and then serve -the soup with the vegetables in it. - - - - -BEEF - -_Roasting. Boiling_ - - -_General Remarks_ - - Sirloin 7 lbs. 1½ to 2 hours. - Fillet say 4 lbs. 1 hour. - Round 4 to 5 lbs. 1¼ hours. - Rolled Ribs 7 lbs. 2¼ to 2½ hours. - Aitchbone 7 lbs. 2½ to 3 hours. - -The first and the two last joints should be bought large, not under -seven pounds, on account of the bone they contain. - -In roasting or rather in baking, as is the general practice of small -households (either in gas stove or coal), attention should be paid -that the oven is not too fierce as it reduces the joint greatly and of -course spoils the taste and appearance. - -On the other hand, an oven not sufficiently hot spoils the meat by -making it hard. - -The proper degree of heat is best learned by experience but as a guide -it may be said that a joint should begin to splutter and sizzle within -fifteen minutes after the oven door is shut. - -If the meat does not appear to be cooking satisfactorily at the end of -fifteen minutes the baking tin should be stood on the stove over the -fire (top off) after putting a little beef dripping into the tin. - -While on the fire turn the joint over several times with the fork. At -the end of ten to fifteen minutes the meat may be put back into the -oven. - -The dripping should be preserved as follows:-- - -After the meat is cooked, place the joint on the dish. Turn the fat out -of the baking tin into a basin and dash into it at once a tablespoonful -of cold water. This will separate the meat juice from the fat. - -In this way you obtain perfectly clear fat and the meat juice under -it will be found useful for colouring sauces or improving soups. This -applies to all roast meat--beef, veal, and mutton--providing the joint -is not stuffed. - -As to obtaining gravy for the joint itself, proceed as follows:-- - -After pouring off the fat into the basin as directed, put half a -teacupful of cold water into the baking tin and let it stand on top of -the fire till it boils, which will happen almost at once. Turn over the -joint in the dish. - -Should the gravy appear not dark enough, the meat juice separated as -above from the fat of other joints may be added. - -_N.B._ Never flour the joint before putting it in the oven. The -practice has nothing to recommend it and it would make it impossible to -obtain dripping or preserve the very useful meat juice. - - -_77. Salt Beef and Carrots_ - -Soak over night in cold water a piece of salt beef, say about four -pounds. Put it into a saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Time -for cooking: one and a half hours. When the meat has been boiling for -half an hour add four carrots cut in four lengthwise. Make about six -suet dumplings in the same way as suet crust for pudding and put in the -saucepan twenty minutes before the meat is ready. Care must be taken -that no salt is added to anything. Serve with the dumplings and carrots -round the dish. - - -_78. Stuffed Steak with Thick Sauce_ - -Take two pounds of rump steak, free it from sinews; make about four -large cuts in it without cutting it right through, with a sharp knife. -Lay the stuffing (sage and onion according to rec: 40) on the steak, -cover with a piece of flare, or if not available a piece of buttered -paper tied round with string, and bake for one hour. Lay the meat on a -dish and remove the string and paper. Put a pinch of pepper and salt -into the baking tin and about a teacupful of water. Place over the top -of the stove until it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful and a half of -carefully mixed flour, bring it to the boil again and carefully strain -it through a gravy strainer over the meat. Serve with baked or boiled -potatoes. - - -_79. Rump Steak with Kidney and Mushroom Sauce_ - -Melt over a clear fire an ounce of butter in an enamelled frying pan, -then put in one and a half pounds of rump steak to fry briskly for -five minutes, turning over once. Put the stove top on then and cook -the steak for fifteen to twenty minutes more. Prepare half an ox -kidney cut into dice, half a Spanish onion chopped very fine, and six -or seven mushrooms (which have been previously placed in salted water -for a short time to remove all grit). After dishing the steak put the -kidney in the pan first, then the onion, then the mushrooms and fry -very briskly but lightly for ten to fifteen minutes. Then add half a -teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, six tablespoonfuls of water, and half a -tablespoonful of flour mixed very smooth and thin with a little water. -Bring to a boil and turn over the steak before serving. - - -_80. Stewed Steak_ - -Cut into pieces about a finger’s length one and a half pounds of rump -steak. Have ready in an enamelled frying pan about an ounce of fresh -butter made hot, or dripping. Lay the steak in this and fry briskly -on a clear fire for ten minutes. Remove the meat and put it into an -earthenware saucepan with a slice. Fry in the same butter or dripping -one large Spanish onion. Cut two large or six small carrots into -pieces; add this and the onion to the steak with a piece of loaf sugar, -pepper and salt, and half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce or mushroom -catsup. Cover with cold water and stew gently for two hours. Thicken -with a little carefully mixed flour and water. Best served in the -earthenware saucepan wrapped in a napkin. - - -_81. Marinaded Beef_ - -This recipe will be useful when the question arises of keeping a -joint over a Sunday. Get your butcher to cut you about four pounds of -undercut of beef. Make the marinade as follows: For a pint of best -malt vinegar one whole onion, one carrot (onion and carrot to be left -whole), one-fourth pint of cold water, two bay leaves, six or seven -peppercorns, salt and pepper to taste; put into an enamel saucepan and -bring to a boil. Simmer gently for half an hour then turn into a deep -basin to get cold. When quite cold place the beef in it and turn it -over five or six times in the course of the two days it has to wait for -cooking. When required for the table take some good dripping--either -beef or mutton according to which joint you wish to cook--put it into a -baking tin and when quite hot place the meat in it and cook in a nice -hot (but not fierce) oven for three-quarters of an hour to one hour. -Place the meat on a hot dish, turn out the fat which is no longer of -any use. For the gravy put four or five tablespoonfuls of the marinade -into the hot baking tin with a teaspoonful of bovril and bring to a -boil. Add to the boiling gravy, if possible, two or three teaspoonfuls -of cream (not preserved) thickened with a little flour and water mixed -smoothly, and serve either poured over the meat or in a sauce boat. - -_Note._ The above will do for loin of mutton. - - -_82. Steaks on Toast_ - -Take a nice thick steak, beat it lightly with the blade of a firm -knife, cut into rounds say about the size of the foot of a large -wineglass, allowing two little steaks per person. Sprinkle with a -little salt. Have a deep frying pan with some good beef dripping ready -melted. Cut some rounds of dry bread a little bigger than the meat. Fry -these a crisp brown in the dripping. Drain them on a strainer. Put some -more fresh dripping in the pan and fry the little steaks which should -be cooked so as to allow the gravy to run red when cut. Place each on -the round of toast and serve very hot with some thick brown gravy. - - -_83. Scraped Meat Steak_ - -Take about two pounds of lean steak cut very thick. Scrape it free from -all fat or other particles with a sharp knife on to a big flat dish. -Add pepper and salt to taste, about half a finely sliced and minced -onion, a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce. Work all together with the -blade of the knife pressing the meat, etc., on the dish. In this way -the onion should entirely disappear. Form into little round cakes the -size of a small round dinner biscuit only three times as thick. Roll in -egg and breadcrumbs and fry lightly from three to seven minutes. Place -on a hot dish and serve. A welcome addition is the whole yolk of an -egg served on each, and it is quite palatable prepared in this way and -served quite raw. - - - - -MUTTON - -_Roasting._ _Boiling_ - - -_General Remarks_ - - Leg 7 lbs. 1¾ hours. - -(This can be cut in half across and used as two joints if desired, thus -doing away with a lot of cold meat for succeeding days) - - Shoulder 7 to 8 lbs. 1¾ to 2 hours. - Loin 4 to 6 lbs. 1 to 1¾ hours. - -For roasting mutton the oven must be brisk. No joint of mutton should -be put on the top of the stove. - -For dishing and gravy proceed as for beef. - -Shank end of leg of mutton makes very good mutton broth. - - -_83. Boiled Mutton_ - -Boil the bottom half of a leg of mutton in a saucepan three parts full -of water for one and a half hours with a teaspoonful of salt. Serve on -a flat dish with a little parsley as garniture. - -Serve with caper sauce. Proceed as per No. 110 but adding half a cupful -of capers (bottled) instead of the parsley, ten minutes before serving -in a boat. - - -_84. Boiled Mutton for an Invalid_ - -Take a little of the best end of the neck of mutton and, after removing -the fat, put it in a stone saucepan which has been previously rinsed -in cold water, with half a pint of fresh milk and a little salt. While -boiling add half an onion cut up small. Boil gently for an hour and a -half. Thicken with a little flour and serve. - - -_85. Breast of Mutton Stuffed_ - -Lay the breast of mutton on the pastry board and put sage and onion -stuffing (recipe 40) into it. Roll and tie with string and bake for one -hour. - - -_86. Leg of Mutton Cutlets_ - -Cut the leg of mutton in half, the top part for roasting and the rest -of the leg cut into cutlets of about an inch thick (it should cut into -four cutlets). Put half an ounce of butter into a pan and melt it over -the fire. Fry the cutlets over a clear, brisk fire for five minutes, -and turn over once during that time. Put the stove top on and cook the -cutlets for fifteen minutes more. Then dish. - - -_87. Mutton Cutlets and Mashed Potatoes_ - -Cut three pounds of best end of neck of mutton (it is always best to -cut your own cutlets), carefully remove the line of fat and scrape the -bone which should not be longer than three inches. Chop the rest off. -Put one ounce of fresh butter in an enamelled frying pan and make it -hot. Lay the cutlets in the butter and put over a brisk fire for three -minutes. Turn once and place on the stove with the top on. Cook for -another fifteen minutes. If any doubt is felt as to their being done, -it is well to cut one to see whether it is cooked perfectly. It should -look red not purple, and the gravy should run. Arrange the mashed -potatoes in a pyramid in the centre of the dish and stand the cutlets -round it with a little paper frill on each bone. - - -_88. Boiled Mutton with Mushrooms or Olives_ - -Take some mutton cutlets from which all the fat has been removed. Put -them into a frying pan with a little good dripping and some finely -sliced onion. Fry to a light brown. Cut into dice one or more sound -turnips and a carrot and put into a small saucepan together with one or -two stoned olives or mushrooms cut up, unless the button ones are used. -Add the fried meat and onion and if possible a little strong meat gravy -to just cover the whole. (The stones of the olives should be put in as -well and removed before serving). Add pepper and salt and allow to stew -gently an hour and a half. Thicken with a little smoothly mixed flour -and water stirred into it. Bring to a boil and serve in a deep dish. - - -_89. Hot Pot_ - -Take about two and half pounds of best end of neck of mutton and after -removing the bones (which will make mutton stock) cut the meat in two -(each cutlet); have two sound turnips and two carrots cut into dice -and one large onion finely sliced. Put the vegetables in a pile in the -centre of a stone (deep) saucepan. Place the meat round it and add -pepper and salt. Pour in a small breakfast cup of cold water and cover -the whole with slices of partly cooked boiled potato. Spread liberally -with some good beef dripping and cover with the saucepan lid. Put into -a good oven and allow two and a half hours for it to cook. Then remove -the lid and leave to brown, when it will be ready to serve. It is best -served in the saucepan with a white serviette wrapped round it. - - -_90. Hashed Mutton_ - -Take the remains of cold roast mutton. Remove the fat and cut the meat -into nice small slices not too thin. Fry lightly a large onion cut into -thin slices, a little diced turnip, and half a dozen dry chillies. -Put all together into an enamelled saucepan and if possible a little -mutton stock made from the bone. Stew gently for an hour, add two -tablespoonfuls of washed rice, thicken with a little flour and water -mixed smooth, and serve hot. - - -_100. Stewed Lamb and Green Peas_ - -Take two and a half pounds of lean lamb cutlets; put them into an -enamelled saucepan with an onion cut into thin slices, one or two -fresh young turnips peeled and cut into squares, salt and pepper, and -a piece of loaf sugar. Stew gently for an hour, add a breakfast-cupful -of freshly shelled green peas and let them boil all together for twenty -minutes. Thicken with a little smoothly mixed flour and water. Serve -very hot with a little chopped parsley dusted over the top. - - -_Roast Lamb_ - -To roast lamb proceed as for mutton, only the joints, being smaller, -will not require so long to cook. A nice way to serve a leg of lamb is -as follows: have some bacon lard cut into strips about an inch long, -cut little slits in the outside of the leg and insert a piece of bacon -lard in each. Cook in a nice steady oven, allowing about an hour and a -half for a leg of four pounds. - -If you wish to serve a leg of lamb or any other joint cold it is well -to choose a joint not too large for your purpose and to cook it the -day before it is required. Avoid cutting it while it is hot. In this -way the gravy should run freely when the cold joint is cut and the -flavour will be much better. The same applies to any joint intended to -be used cold. - -The proper sauce for roast lamb is the mint sauce. Take twenty-four -leaves of mint chopped very fine, a teacupful of vinegar, and two good -teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar. Dissolve the sugar in vinegar and put -it with the mint into a sauce boat. - - - - -VEAL AND PORK - -_Roasting. Boiling_ - - -_General Remarks_ - - Fillet 5 to 6 lbs. 2 to 2½ hours. - Shoulder half shoulder from 7 to 9 lbs. 2 to 2¾ hrs. - Loin 4 lbs. 1 hour. - -If fillet piece is too large to cook for one joint you may cut off -a slice one and a half inches thick, horizontally, to be used later -either as veal cutlets or for veal olives. - -For dishing and obtaining gravy and dripping proceed as for beef. - -Generally speaking, a piece of veal wants a longer time for cooking -than a piece of beef or mutton of the same size. - - -_101. Veal Cutlets_ - -Chop off the long bones of two pounds of veal cutlets and put them to -stew in a stone saucepan with a little salt to make gravy. Melt an -ounce of fresh butter or dripping in an enamelled frying pan in the -stove with the top off and lay the cutlets in it. Fry briskly for ten -minutes turning once or twice. Replace the stove top and cook for -another twenty minutes. Place on a dish, pour the gravy already made -over them, and serve. - - -_102. Stuffed Fillet of Veal_ - -Take about three pounds of veal cut rather flat, score it several times -with a sharp knife. Lay the sage and onion stuffing (as per recipe 40) -on it and cover with flare or a buttered paper. Tie it with string, put -it into a baking tin, and bake for one and a half hours. Place on a hot -dish and pour the gravy over. - - -_103. Roast Pork_ - -A small leg of pork or about four pounds of loin must be scored on the -outside with a sharp knife. Put it into a baking tin and put in the -oven for two to two and a half hours. Dish up and treat the dripping as -directed for beef or mutton. Serve with onion or apple sauce. - - -_104. Boiled Shoulder of Pork_ - -Put into boiling water without salt, and boil for one and a half hours -if only half a shoulder; for two hours if whole. - - -_105. Boiled Ham_ - -Must be put into boiling water. If a whole ham, boil for three to three -and a half hours. Let it steam for a few minutes on a dish (with a -strainer under it) and then roll in baked breadcrumbs. Never put the -paper collar on the knuckle till thoroughly cold. - - -_106. Blanquette de Veau_ - -Take two pounds of breast of veal, cut it in squares about two inches, -put into a saucepan, cover with cold water, add a large pinch of salt. -Bring to a boil, then skim carefully. Add one whole onion stuck with -four cloves, one carrot cut in halves, a teacupful of white wine, a -bouquet of laurel, thyme, and parsley. Cook for half an hour, then -strain the meat and keep the stock boiling. Mix two ounces of butter -with the same of flour quite smoothly, stir it in the boiling stock -while over the fire. The resulting sauce must be perfectly smooth and -not too thick. Put the meat without the vegetables or herbs back into -the saucepan and continue to cook for an hour and a half till quite -tender, taking the greatest care that it should not burn. Stir the -yolks of two eggs and half an ounce of butter and the juice of a lemon -together and add it to the meat in the saucepan. Bring to a boil. -Arrange the meat in a deep dish and pour the sauce over it. Surround -the whole with six croutons of bread cut in the form of triangles and -fried a golden brown, in butter. - - -_107. Calf’s Head_ - -Half a calf’s head is more than enough for three or four persons. The -best plan is to soak the head in a bowl of cold water and a little -salt all night, previously removing the brains. It will take from two -and a half to three hours’ gentle boiling and care must be taken that -the cooking vessel is large enough to allow the head to lie flat and -the water to cover it. It must be put into cold water with a good -piece of salt, a knob of loaf sugar, one onion (large and whole), two -carrots (whole), and two teacupfuls of white wine. Serve with the meat -carefully removed from the bone, either cold with ravigote sauce or -with the cooked vegetables cut into small squares and a few button -mushrooms which have been cooked in the stock. Arrange this on the dish -and pour over it the following brown gravy: Fry lightly two slices of -onion in a little butter allowing it to get brown a little. Add some -of the stock from the head, a few drops of A. 1. sauce, and a good -teaspoonful of bovril, or meat juice from some other joint. Thicken -with a little mixed flour and water, pour into the frying pan, bring -to a boil and strain over the meat and vegetables in the dish. The -brains may be cooked separately and beaten into this gravy after it is -strained. - - -_108. Calf’s Feet_ - -Calf’s feet are of great use in the cooking for invalids. Soak as for -calf’s head over night. Put into a saucepan with cold water and a good -piece of salt, one onion whole and one whole carrot. This will make an -excellent soup served with the meat cut into nice little pieces and -the vegetables cut as directed for calf’s head. But if the feet are -intended for jelly it is better to omit the vegetables. Half a pint of -good port wine can be added to the stock after it is cooked. Before -straining add a teacupful of cold water to clear it. - - -_109. Pig’s Trotters_ - -Pig’s trotters can be served as an addition to a dish of tripe and -onions in which case they require soaking over night as they would be -already salted. Boil them without salt until tender and add to the -cooked tripe. As a separate dish you must, when cooked, roll them in a -freshly beaten egg and then in baked breadcrumbs and fry a golden brown -in a little butter. - - - - -FISH - -_Frying. Boiling_ - - -_General Remarks_ - -Raw fish should be kept in an uncovered dish in the icebox. Always wash -in a little vinegar and water before cooking. _Smoked fish_ such as -haddock should be boiled always in a deep frying pan allowing the water -to cover it. - - -_Kippers_ are difficult to cook without smell and to keep moist. The -best way is to lay the kipper on its back in a flat meat dish. A small -piece of butter should be always put into the dish first and a larger -piece on the open side of the kipper, with a little white paper. Put -into a quick oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. There will be no smell. - - -_Dried Sprats_, to be treated in the same way but they require only -twelve to fifteen minutes in the oven, and a little more butter. - - -_Bloaters_, like kippers, after removing the head and cleaning and -wiping on a damp cloth. - - -_110. Boiled Fish and Melted Butter_ - - -_Plaice._ Lay your fish on a perforated white stone strainer in a -fish kettle. Cover with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt and a -teaspoonful of vinegar. Put over a quick fire, bring to a boil and keep -it boiling for about fifteen minutes. Have ready the following sauce:-- - -Mix one dessertspoonful of flour smoothly with one ounce of butter. Add -sufficient boiling milk to make up to half a pint, and a little salt. -Put it into a double saucepan the bottom half containing boiling water. -Stir with a spoon always the same way until it thickens. Chop about six -sprigs of parsley (not stalk) and add to the sauce. Dish the fish in a -flat dish and serve the sauce in a sauce boat. - - -_Cod_ may be cooked in the same way only it must boil for fully half an -hour after it has been brought to the boil. - - -_Hake._ As for cod but boil only for twenty-five minutes. - - -_Halibut._ Is seldom bought whole. Buy say two pounds and boil for -twenty-five to forty minutes according to the thickness. - - -_Turbot._ Say two pounds. Must be put into _boiling_ water and boiled -gently for thirty minutes. Oyster sauce, foundation as above, only the -oysters (each cut in two) must be added after the sauce has thickened -and kept stirred for four to five minutes. - - -_111. Fried Fish_ - - -_Plaice._ Cut about two pounds of filleted plaice into four pieces. -Beat an egg in a plate, white and yolk together. Put the fish into it -and then into rolled rusk crumbs. Have ready in an enamelled frying pan -about half a pound of best tub lard and when thoroughly hot (it can be -found out by dropping a crumb into the fat when it will sizzle) it is -ready for the dish. Lay the fish into it and fry for ten to fifteen -minutes. Dish with a slice on a flat dish and serve with a garniture of -lemon. - -This recipe applies to soles--unless the sole is very thick, when it -must fry for twenty minutes. Whiting for twenty minutes and halibut for -twenty-five minutes. - - -_112. Fried Smelts_ - -Make a batter of one teacupful of flour mixed carefully with milk till -it is quite thin enough to run. Add a pinch of salt. Have ready in an -enamelled frying pan a quarter pound of best tub lard boiling. Dip each -smelt well into the batter and fry in the hot lard for ten to fifteen -minutes. - - -_113. Whitebait_ - -Are treated like smelts but the batter must be only half as thick and -the time required for cooking is from seven to ten minutes. Take up the -fish from the batter with a slice and scatter into the boiling fat. Do -not crowd the pan on any account. - - -_114. Stewed Eels_ - -Two or three freshly skinned eels cut into small pieces about two -inches long. Put into a stone saucepan with a little salt and a piece -of loaf sugar, one claret glass of white claret or cooking sherry, and -about a teacupful of good beef stock. Cover the eels with water and -slice a small Spanish onion into it. Stew gently for three-quarters of -an hour, thicken with a little flour mixed with water and serve in the -stone saucepan. Care must be taken not to break the fish when stirring -in the thickening. - - -_115. Salmon or Cod Cutlets_ - -One and a half to two pounds in three or four cutlets, dip into a -beaten egg and then roll in crumbs, made preferably of German rusks. -Have ready a quarter of a pound of best tub lard in an enamelled frying -pan and when hot put the fish in and fry for a quarter of an hour to -twenty minutes, turning over once. To ascertain if properly cooked pass -the knife down by the side of the bone and if cooked the knife will -pass quite easily. Dish with a slice on a flat dish and garnish with -parsley and lemon cut in quarters. - - -_116. Sole for an Invalid_ - -Lay a filleted sole in a rather deep meat dish and cover with milk and -a little salt and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. This will -make the sauce. Cover with another dish (flat) and bake in a quick oven -for about half an hour. Serve very hot with the sauce and a little -chopped parsley sprinkled over it. - - -_117. Crimped Skate and Black Butter_ - -Take about one and a half pounds of crimped skate. Have ready in -an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of butter made hot and a -tablespoonful of vinegar. Put it over the fire and let it slightly -burn. Fry the skate in it for twenty minutes and then serve on a hot -dish with a few slices of lemon laid round it. - - -_118. Pickled Herrings or Mackerel_ - -Have eight fresh herrings or four large mackerel cleaned and remove -the heads. Lay not very closely together with the backs upwards in a -pie-dish. Fill the dish with vinegar and a few peppercorns, a little -salt, an onion (sliced), and a piece of butter about the size of a -walnut. Bake in a moderately quick oven for about one and a half hours. -Serve in a glass dish and strain the vinegar over them. - - -_119. Herrings in Paper_ - -Have ready cleaned and beheaded say six herrings with soft roes if -possible. Lay six pieces of paper (buttered) on the hot shelf of the -oven to melt the butter, then wrap each fish in a piece of paper. Have -ready about a quarter of a pound of tub lard melted in an enamelled -frying pan and lay the fish in the papers in the boiling fat. The fire -must not be too fierce. Fry for about twenty or twenty-five minutes -over a brisk fire. Dish up and serve in the papers. - - -_120. Red Mullet_ - -Take for four persons two good-sized mullets. (Remove the head if -desired; never split them open.) Have a deep enamelled frying pan -ready. Put into it three ounces of butter, four or five wafer-thin -slices of onion, two tablespoonfuls of bottled tomato sauce or catsup. -Bring to a boil and lay the fish gently in the hot pan. Keep the -butter boiling lightly round the fish. Baste frequently with a large -spoon; then carefully turn the fish, taking care not to tear the skin -(thus spoiling the appearance). Generally it will take from thirty to -forty minutes to cook the fish through. This can be easily ascertained -by passing the blade of a fine knife gently through the fish by the -side of the bone. Have a little more butter and tomato catsup melted -together in a basin. Place the fish on a hot dish and pour the melted -butter and tomato sauce you have ready over the fish and serve very -hot. It should never be allowed to brown, so as to retain its pretty -red colour. - - - - -FOWLS AND GAME BIRDS - -_Roasting and Between Boiling_ - - -_General Remarks_ - -In roasting birds the great point is to avoid dryness. - -Butter should be put _into_ the bird as well as outside. - -The fowl should never be washed with water after being trussed but -wiped with a damp cloth. - -On no account should a fowl intended for roasting be floured on the -outside. It is an abominable practice, causing the skin to become -leathery and thick. - -Fowls or any birds already plucked and trussed cannot be kept for more -than two days. But before trussing they may be kept _hanging_ for three -or four days providing the weather is not thundery or hot. - - -_121. Roast Goose_ - -Have a goose of seven or eight pounds trussed for roasting. Stuff with -sage and onion stuffing (rec: 40), butter the breast well and cook in -a quick but not fierce oven for three and a half hours. Garnish with -sausages. - - -_122. Roast Duck_ - -If not stuffed put a piece of butter inside and butter the breast -liberally. Cook in a quick oven for one and a half hours. Dish as for -roast fowl and serve with green peas as per recipe. If stuffed it must -be cooked for one and three quarters hours. - - -_123. Wild Duck_ - -Put some butter inside the duck, butter the breast, and fasten a slice -of very fat bacon to the breast with a skewer. Bake in a quick oven for -one and a half hours. Serve garnished with parsley. - - -_124. Roast Fowl_ - -Put inside a properly trussed fowl about an ounce of butter and spread -butter also over the breast. Do not flour your fowl. Bake in a quick -oven for one and a quarter hours (roast one and a half hours). When the -fowl is done lay on a dish, strain the butter out of the meat tin, boil -up a little water in it to make gravy and pour over the fowl in the -dish. If to be stuffed see recipe: 41. - - -_125. Roast Pheasant_ - -Should be cooked in the same way as chicken and served with cranberry -sauce or black currant jelly. To make cranberry sauce take half a -pound of cranberries, a good teacupful of powdered sugar and just cover -with hot water. Boil gently for an hour. Sometimes the sugar is omitted. - - -_126. Snipe and Quail_ - -Snipe must not be trussed, but quail is always trussed. Butter the -breasts; a quail should have a piece of butter inside as well. Bake -in a quick oven for half an hour. Lay the birds on slices of thick -buttered toast. Serve them on toast with red or black currant jelly. - - -_127. Roast Partridge_ - -Butter the breast and inside. Bake in a tin in the oven for -three-quarters of an hour. Lay the bird on a thick slice of toast. Pour -the fat out of the tin, boil up in it a very little water and serve the -gravy thus made in a sauce boat. - -The best toast for all game birds is made as follows: Remove the crust -from as many pieces of bread as required. When the birds are cooked -place them in another tin or dish and bring the fat in which they have -been cooked to a boil on the stove. Place the slices of bread in the -boiling fat and fry till they are a crisp brown. - - -_128. Roast Pigeons_ - -Take say two pigeons trussed for roasting. Put a good-sized piece of -butter into each and liberally butter the breasts. Put into a baking -tin and bake for half an hour to three-quarters. For dishing, split in -halves down the breast (it will be easy if the birds are well done) -and lay on hot buttered toast. Strain the fat out of the tin and put a -little good meat juice into it. Stir in a little well-mixed flour and -water and serve with green peas. - - -_129. Boiled Fowl_ - -Take a lean fowl and fasten a slice of lean bacon over the breast with -a small skewer. Put into a saucepan, with enough boiling water to -cover it, with an onion and a little white wine. Stew gently for an -hour. Remove the fowl whole and serve with melted butter sauce as for -fish without the parsley. The liquid in which it boiled should make -excellent soup if you boil in it any remains of chicken carcass just -for flavouring, or add some good beef stock. - - -_130. Venison_ - -Melt an ounce of butter or dripping in a baking tin and when hot lay in -it about three pounds of venison not too fat. Bake in a fairly quick -oven for two hours, basting it from time to time with the butter out -of the tin. Make the gravy as for beef. Serve with red currant jelly. - - -_131. Roast Turkey_ - -Have ready a turkey of about seven pounds trussed for roasting. Stuff -it with the best sausage meat and some truffles cut up very small. -Butter the breast very liberally and bake in a quick oven for three -hours. Garnish with sausages. - - -_132. Chicken Jelly_ - -Take an old fowl trussed and slash it well across the breast and thighs -with a sharp knife. Place it in a large saucepan, cover with cold -water, add a little salt, two big pieces of loaf sugar, and one whole -onion. Stew gently for three hours, strain from the fowl into a deep -basin, add quickly a teacupful of cold water and set it to get cold. It -can be used either as chicken broth or, with the addition of a glass of -good white wine, as a jelly in which to serve a young roast fowl. - - -_133. Chicken Rissoles_ - -Mince finely the remains of cold chicken with a slice of onion. Make -a little sauce, stirring smoothly one ounce of fresh butter into a -tablespoonful of flour, and pouring half a pint of boiling milk into -it. Return it to the saucepan and allow it to boil (a double saucepan -is best for all milk cooking); it will then thicken; put the chicken -into it, with a pinch of salt. Make some deep light pastry cases and -put a thick finger of larded bread into each till the pastry is cooked. -If the top edge of the pastry is moistened with a little milk, the lid -can be easily removed when cooked. Put the chicken mixture into the -cases after removing the bread, replace the top, and serve very hot, in -a meat dish. - - - - -VEGETABLES AND SALADS - - -_Green Vegetables_ - -_Always_ boil without a lid on. - -_Always_ put straight into boiling water. - -_Never_ add salt or soda till the vegetables are in the water. - -_Never_ have green vegetables lying in cold water more than half an -hour before they are to be cooked. - -Cabbage, savoy, cauliflower should be steeped for ten minutes in a -pan of cold water with a good tablespoonful of salt. Time to boil -twenty-five to thirty minutes. - -Potatoes must lie in cold water without salt. - -Onions should never lie in water or be wet before being used. - -Turnips, carrots, and parsnips should be washed but never allowed to -lie in cold water. - -Celery should be treated like cabbage. - -Spinach, on the contrary, requires to be washed in seven different lots -of cold water and only the last lot without salt. - -Fresh beans or peas should never pass through any cold water. - - -_134. Dry Vegetables_ - -Haricot beans should be put to soak for at least twelve hours in cold -water--pint of beans to three pints of cold water. No salt. - -Dry peas (not split) the same. - - -_133. Salads and Their Dressings_ - -There are many green salads, and a salad is always a very welcome -addition to a meal if there should be cold meat or fowl in any form. -Lettuce, endive, watercress, corn salad, chicory or tomato, can be -dressed as follows: Having washed and dried the salad (by means of a -wire salad basket swung vigorously), place it in the salad bowl with a -little chopped onion or several young spring onions according to the -season. To two salad-spoonfuls of vinegar dissolve one salt-spoonful -of salt and a little pepper, turn into the salad and add three -salad-spoonfuls of best salad oil. Turn the salad over for five minutes -with the spoon and fork. The bowl should then appear quite dry, the -dressing having been taken up on the green salad. If dressing tomatoes -alone, place the tomatoes which must be firm and sound in a large basin -and pour over them some boiling water. The skin will then peel off -easily leaving the fruit whole. Cut them into slices, put into a glass -dish and sprinkle over them a little freshly chopped onion. Mix in a -breakfast cup the oil and vinegar, salt and pepper (always taking care -to add the oil last); stir well and pour over the tomatoes in the dish. -It is best not to attempt to turn this salad as the tomatoes so easily -get broken and the appearance of the salad is then spoiled. Sprinkle -over all a little finely chopped parsley. - - -_Potato Salad._ Take some boiled potatoes, cut into slices not too thin -and a little chopped onion. Place in a salad bowl. Mix the oil and -vinegar as before directed only allow exactly double the quantity of -dressing as the potatoes absorb it. Turn over well before serving. - - -_Chicory as Salad._ Will need the dressing prepared as for tomato. - - -_Russian Salad._ Any remains of cold beans, peas, carrots, beet-root, -etc., with the addition of one hard-boiled egg, the white chopped -separately from the yolk and added to the salad only after it is -dressed. Put into a large basin all the cold vegetables it is intended -to use together with a little finely chopped onion. Mix in a cup the -raw yolk of one egg, two teaspoonfuls of cream if possible, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and three of oil, pepper, and salt. Work -all together and add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Turn it into the -vegetables and turn the salad very carefully once or twice. Sprinkle -the chopped egg over all. - - -_136. Asparagus_ - -This delightful vegetable is a welcome and useful addition to either -a lunch or dinner and can be served either hot or cold. If cold, then -with a nice mayonnaise sauce or with oil and vinegar. If hot, then as -follows: Prepare the asparagus, carefully cutting each stick slanting -thus removing about an inch from each. (These short ends can be washed -and put into stock to flavour it for asparagus soup. A few of the -tops being added for the sake of appearance.) Boil in plenty of water -till tender, strain carefully and serve with melted butter in which a -few dry brown breadcrumbs have been added, or quite clear butter as -desired. If any asparagus is left over from the meal it should be used -in an omelette. - - -_137. Indian Corn_ - -Take the corn and after cutting the stump end close to the green leaf, -put into a saucepan of boiling water sufficient to cover it and boil -gently with a good piece of salt for four hours. When cooked, pare off -the green leaves and serve on a clean serviette with melted butter in a -sauce boat. - - -_138. Salsify_ - -Carefully wash and remove shoots from the salsify. Place it in boiling -stock and boil till tender. Serve very hot in a vegetable dish either -with a white sauce or with a little melted butter over it in two lots -as they must not be crowded. - - -_139. New Potatoes_ - -Carefully select potatoes about the same size, have them scraped and -put into boiling water with a little piece of mint and some salt. -Boil for fifteen to twenty minutes or until quite tender, turn into a -vegetable dish and put a piece of butter the size of a walnut melted -over the potatoes, and dust a little finely chopped parsley over them. - - -_140. Potatoes Sautés_ - -Take some potatoes which have been boiled and cut them into thin -slices. Melt in a frying pan about an ounce of fresh butter and when -this boils lay the potatoes in it, not on top of each other but -perfectly flat, while the pan stands on the stove. Allow the potatoes -to brown first one side and then the other. Dish with a slice into a -vegetable dish and dust over with a little finely chopped parsley. - - -_141. Mashed Potatoes_ - -Boil the potatoes carefully, strain, and shake vigorously with the lid -on. Break them up then and beat with a carving fork, with two ounces of -fresh butter; then add fresh milk and continue beating till they attain -the consistency of very thick cream. They will then be ready to serve -with cutlets or as a bed for sausages. - - -_142. Stuffed Potatoes_ - -Peel your potatoes and cut the ends so that they are flat. Scrape the -centre out of each potato leaving a wall of about a quarter of an inch -thick all round. Mince finely any cold beef, mutton, or veal you may -have by you with one large ring of Spanish onion chopped very small, -pepper and salt, and a little mushroom if possible. Moisten slightly -with a little meat juice. Fill in each potato with this mixture. Melt -in a baking tin sufficient beef dripping, a quarter of a pound to every -six or eight potatoes would be right, and when boiling, but not beyond -boiling point, stand the potatoes in it. The baking tin should be small -enough to allow the dripping to come well up the sides of the potatoes. -Cook in a fairly quick oven from thirty to forty minutes. When cooked -brush very lightly over the top with the beaten white of an egg. Dish -very carefully so as not to take up the fat. - - -_143. French Fried Potatoes_ - -Cut your peeled potatoes into long strips about half an inch in -thickness and leave them in the cold water. Melt about half a pound of -tub lard (not bladder lard as this has always flour mixed with it which -causes the things to burn in the frying pan). When the lard is hot, -drop a small crumb into it and if the fat sizzles round it is ready for -the potatoes. Put the pan over a brisk fire and drop the potatoes as -you take them out of the water straight into the pan. If the pan is not -large enough to take them all flat, cook in two lots. - - -_144. Savoury Potatoes_ - -Have the potatoes boiled and not broken. Cut into dice some fat bacon. -Put a piece of butter into a small enamelled frying pan and when melted -put the bacon fat into it and let it brown slightly. Pour over the -potatoes in the dish and serve at once. This is a good way to serve -potatoes with cold meat. - - -_145. Potato Croquettes_ - -Have ready about two or three breakfast-cups of nicely mashed potato. -Form into either small round cakes or sausage-shaped ones. Roll in a -plate of well-beaten egg and some fine crumbs made from rolled rusk -crumbs; fry a light brown in some good dripping or lard, and serve -piled up in a dish, garnished with a little fresh parsley. - - -_146. Baked Potatoes_ - -Cut your peeled potatoes in four pieces lengthwise. Melt in a baking -tin half a pound of beef or veal dripping (mutton dripping will not -do) on the top of the stove, and when boiling put the potatoes into -it. Turn them once and only then sprinkle with a little salt. Place in -a brisk oven and bake for twenty minutes or half an hour. Dish with a -slice. - - -_147. Green Peas_ - -Put into a saucepan of boiling water half a vegetable dish of green -peas. Add two lumps of loaf sugar, a small sprig of mint, a pinch of -soda, and a flat teaspoonful of salt. Young peas should cook from -twenty to thirty minutes over a clear fire with the saucepan lid -off. Strain through a cullender and when dished sprinkle with a good -dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; add a piece of butter about the size -of a walnut and turn over with a spoon several times before serving. - -Bottled peas treated in this manner very closely resemble fresh peas. -They must be washed in three waters before cooking. - - -_148. Scarlet Runner and Broad Beans_ - -Have four pounds of beans, trim them all round with a knife to remove -all the string and cut them lengthwise into thin slices. Do not put -them into cold water. Have ready the saucepan three parts full of -boiling water. Put in the beans with a little salt and a tiny piece -of soda. Boil for twenty minutes if the beans are young and a little -longer if they are not quite fresh. Strain into a cullender then into a -vegetable dish. - -Broad beans should be treated in the same way after shucking them. Add -a piece of butter when dished and sprinkle over with a little chopped -parsley. - -Never allow vegetables of any kind to be prepared over night. It will -be found that peas or beans will be hard, cabbage or other greens -offensive, and potatoes become flabby. - - -_149. Cauliflower_ - -Take a young cauliflower with a firm head. Take off the thick outside -leaves and cut a cross on the bottom of the stump. Stand it in boiling -water with the flower uppermost allowing the water to come right over -it. Add some salt and a tiny bit of soda. Boil until tender (from -fifteen to twenty minutes). Dish without breaking, upright in the dish. -Pour half a teacupful of clarified butter over the cauliflower and dust -a few rolled breadcrumbs, which have been browned in the oven, over the -top. - - -_150. Boiled Onions and White Sauce_ - -Cut eight Spanish onions into rings. Put them into a saucepan three -parts full of boiling water with a dessertspoonful of salt and boil for -one hour. Strain into a cullender. - -Take two large tablespoonfuls of flour and mix smoothly with one and -a half tablespoonfuls of butter. Add boiling milk to the paste, about -half a pint, return it to the saucepan and stir till it boils; then -turn the onions into the sauce and serve very hot. - - -_151. Mushroom Rissoles_ - -Cut half a pound of fresh mushrooms into very small pieces. Put into a -small enamelled saucepan with one slice of Spanish onion chopped very -fine, a pinch of salt and a little pepper. Add a little meat juice and -a teacup of water and stew gently until the mushrooms have absorbed all -the moisture. Turn out into a plate and allow to cool. Prepare some -light paste, cut out with a teacup into rounds, brush the rims of each -round with a little milk. Put a small teaspoonful of the mushrooms into -each and fold over into lozenge shape. Take the shelf out of the oven -while it is hot and lay upon it a sheet of paper (white) which has been -previously buttered. As soon as the butter has melted lay the rissoles -on and bake in quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. To be eaten -hot. - - -_152. Stuffed Tomatoes_ - -Cut a thin slice off eight large tomatoes. Remove part of the inside -with a teaspoon. Put half an ounce of fresh butter into a frying pan -(must be fresh butter). Take one large rasher of bacon, fat and lean, -and half a Spanish onion; chop very fine, add a pinch of mixed herbs, -pepper and salt, and the inside of the tomatoes. Make the butter hot -in the pan and place the tomatoes (the cut side downwards) in it and -stand on the stove with the top on. Leave for one minute and a half. -Turn them and place the stuffing in the corner of the pan. Cook both -together in this way for ten minutes more taking care not to let -burn. Take out the tomatoes with a slice and place on a fairly deep -meat dish; fill them with the stuffing, having carefully taken it up -with the slice so as to avoid grease. Pour over all about half a small -teacupful of meat juice. - - -_153. Bubble and Squeak_ - -Chop lightly with a knife in a dish any cold greens and potatoes you -may have left. Melt in an enamelled frying pan one ounce more or less -of fresh butter. Turn the vegetables into it. While cooking use a large -dinner fork to press the vegetables into a smooth paste, turning it -over and over with the fork all the time to prevent it sticking to the -pan. Vegetables so treated should work into a perfectly smooth, stiff -paste and leave the pan as clean as when they went into it. Add a -little pepper and salt. - -Be careful to remove all stumps of cabbage before using. - - -_154. To Use up Cold Vegetables_ - -Cold boiled French beans, cold carrots, cabbage, and a little chopped -onion may be put into an enamelled frying pan in which one and a -half ounces of fresh butter has been melted. Fry the vegetables very -lightly, not making them brown. Turn into a deep dish and pour a -little meat gravy over them. This may be served as a dish by itself or -with cold meat. - - -_155. Spinach as a Separate Dish_ - -Wash through several waters, into which a little salt has been added, -four pounds of fresh spinach after having removed all stalks. The last -water should be without salt. The spinach would have absorbed enough -moisture to cook it in but nevertheless have ready a saucepan half full -of boiling water and put the spinach into it. This will prevent a most -disagreeable smell being emitted while the spinach is cooking. Boil for -twenty minutes, keeping the spinach pressed down with a fork. It should -then be quite tender; if it is not so, boil for five minutes longer. -Strain through a cullender, pressing hard with a plate or wooden -vegetable press to get all the water out; put into a bowl and beat well -with a fork and then work it into another bowl through a hair sieve -using a large wooden spoon. Then work in half a gill of cream, a small -piece of butter and a little milk. The spinach ought then to have the -consistency of thick cream. Put it into a dish and serve with croutons -of lightly fried French roll or garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters. - - - - -PASTRIES, SWEETS, AND CAKES - - -_General Remarks_ - -For Tarts the fruit of all kinds must always be cooked first by itself. -Bottled fruits should also be brought to a boil with sugar before being -put into the pastry, except for baked apple dumplings. - -For Puddings the fruit should not be cooked before. Suet crust should -be mixed with water with just the chill off but not hot. - -Milk puddings always require to be cooked in a very slow oven. - -Never use brown sugar for sweetening except for Christmas pudding and -apple pudding. - - -_156. Pastry for Meat Pies_ - -For meat pies, sausage rolls, etc., the following pastry is -recommended. Put two and a half cupfuls of flour into a bowl and work -into it a quarter of a pound of butter. Mix with a little tepid water. -Roll out on the board and spread it thickly with a quarter of a pound -of lard (half at a time). Turn over the ends of the pastry, roll out -again and spread the rest of the lard. Turn in the ends again and roll -finally for the crust of your pie. - - -_157. Pastry for Puddings_ - -Put into the pastry bowl two and a half to three breakfast-cupfuls of -flour and half a teaspoonful of baking powder (unless self-raising -flour is being used in which case no baking powder is necessary). Have -a quarter of a pound of beef suet carefully separated from all skin -and chopped very finely. Work the suet smoothly into the flour, add a -pinch of salt, and mix to a good stiff paste with a little tepid water. -Roll out on the board to the thickness required. Carefully butter the -basin before putting the pastry into it, and moisten the edge of the -paste at the top of the basin to make the top crust adhere and thus -enclose the meat or fruit securely. Place over the basin a wet pudding -cloth and tie firmly with a string. Use always a pudding basin that has -a good groove round it to prevent the string from slipping off. The -best material for a pudding cloth is a new piece of unbleached calico -that has been well scalded to remove all the dressing from it, and the -easiest way to keep it clean is to place it in a bowl of cold water to -soak each time it has been used. Scrape off with a knife any particles -of paste that may remain on it and rinse well through several warm -waters. No soap must be used. Dry thoroughly and pass through a mangle. - - -_158. Pastry for Pies and Tarts_ - -Three breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour, a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter, and two ounces of lard. Work the butter and lard into -the flour with a good pinch of salt and mix to a smooth elastic paste -with milk (sour milk may be used with advantage). Roll the paste on -the board about half an inch thick. Rub a little butter lightly round -the rim of the dish and put a border of paste round it. Brush a little -milk on the top of that to allow the other crust to stick to it. Roll -out an amount of paste sufficient to form a crust over the top, press -the edges well together, allowing plenty of room in the paste so that -it does not slip off at the edges. Pare with a floured knife round the -rim the edges of the pastry and cook for three quarters of an hour in a -brisk oven. - - -_159. Chocolate Pudding_ - -A nice, fresh moulded sponge cake, half a pound of chocolate, in -blocks, the whites of four eggs, and half a small teacupful of powdered -sugar. Put half the chocolate into a stone or enamelled saucepan, just -cover it with cold water and let it cook for ten minutes. Then add two -tablespoonfuls of water, place on the stove and work it with a dessert -spoon to a stiff paste. Turn this into a small bowl to get cold. Cut -the sponge cake into slices and spread between the pieces all of the -chocolate paste. Beat then the whites of the four eggs in a plate with -a knife to a stiff froth and, after having added the sugar to the -remaining chocolate which has been grated into powder, work it smooth, -pour it with the whites into the bowl, stir for fifteen minutes and -then pour over the moulded cake. - -_Note._ The four yokes can be used either for custard or mayonnaise on -the same day. They would keep till next day if covered closely in a cup. - - -_160. Apples in Syrup_ - -Take a half pound tin of golden syrup, put it in an enamelled saucepan, -rinse the tin with half a tin of boiling water. Bring to a boil, add -two teaspoonfuls of raspberry essence. Carefully peel and core six or -seven sound apples. Drop them, cut in halves, into the boiling syrup -and stew gently without the lid for a good half hour or longer if not -quite soft. The pieces should remain whole and be almost transparent. - - -_161. Pears in Syrup_ - -Make your syrup of one and a half breakfast-cupfuls of powdered sugar -and the same quantity of hot water, to which must be added eight good -cloves. When boiling add your peeled pears which should retain their -stalks and should not be cored. A small glass of claret or any red wine -will greatly improve both taste and appearance. Cook for an hour and a -half or till tender. - - -_162. Plum Dumplings_ - -Take one and a half pounds of sound big plums and make paste for -dumpling as follows: One large breakfast-cup of flour mixed with a -little butter, make into a stiff paste with a little water. Wrap each -plum in its case using a little milk to cause the edges to stick close. -Boil in a large saucepan of boiling water fifteen or twenty minutes. If -care is taken the dumplings should remain whole. Dish carefully into a -flat dish and serve very hot with a large bowl of well-beaten cream and -sifted sugar. - - -_163. Boiled Apple Dumplings_ - -Make a good pudding crust of a large breakfast-cupful of flour and a -quarter of a pound of beef suet rubbed into it. Mix to a stiff paste -and roll out on a board in thin pieces. Put into each a small peeled -apple, moisten the edges with a little milk, taking care that the apple -is completely encased in the paste. Drop into a saucepan of boiling -water and boil gently for two to three minutes. Serve very hot with a -bowl of beaten cream and another of finely sifted sugar. - - -_164. Baked Apple Dumplings_ - -Make a nice piecrust as for tarts. Have ready the apples required and -put one into each piece of crust. Bake in a steady oven from three to -four minutes. Serve with cream and sugar. - - -_165. Pancakes_ - -Beat together two eggs, add a teacupful of milk. Mix into it one and a -half ounces of flour and work it with a spoon to a smooth paste with a -pinch of salt. Have your fire nice and hot and perfectly clear. Keep -the top of the stove on all the time. Take a piece of best tub lard -and melt it in a frying pan (kept for pancakes only), run it well over -the surface of the pan when it is quite hot. Turn the fat out and pour -about a third of a teacupful of the batter into the pan taking care -that it runs all over the pan, which should be only about the size of -a pudding plate. Loosen the edges with the blade of a knife and shake -it from time to time to prevent it from sticking to the pan. Turn with -a slice if unable to toss. Tossing is perfectly easy but requires some -practice. It is done by a turn of the wrist, and if these directions -are carefully followed the pancake should leave the pan perfectly -clean. Turn on to a flat dish and serve either with jam or sugar, or if -savoury pancakes are desired the following hint is a good one: Melt in -a cup on the stove about an ounce of fresh butter with a little finely -shredded onion in it; put it into a hot sauce boat and serve with the -pancakes. - -Each pancake takes from five to seven minutes to cook. - - -_166. Apple Pudding_ - -Take about a quarter of a pound of finely chopped beef suet, two and a -half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour, a little pinch of salt. -Mix with chilled water to a stiff paste. Roll three parts of this into -a large piece on the pastry board. Have ready a pudding basin buttered -by putting a piece of butter the size of a walnut into it and standing -it on the stove to melt. Then let it run over every part of the inside -of the basin. This will prevent the paste sticking. Line the basin -with the paste. Peel, say eight apples, and cut them all round the -core. Fill the basin with them. Add three cloves or, if preferred, -a little rind of lemon, sweeten with brown sugar (about four or five -good tablespoonfuls), cover with another layer of the paste, working -the ends together well so as to prevent the apples coming through. Tie -a wet cloth over and stand the basin in a saucepan of boiling water to -boil for three hours. - - -_167. Treacle or Jam Pudding in a Basin_ - -Have the paste ready as for apple pudding and the basin buttered as -above. Roll the pastry in thin layers and line the basin with one -layer, then add a layer of golden syrup or jam and repeat until the -basin is full. Cover with paste, tie up in cloth and boil in a saucepan -of boiling water for three and a half hours. - - -_168. Apple Soufflé_ - -Pare and cut up say eight nice-sized apples. Put them in a stone -casserole with a breakfast-cupful of sugar and a piece of fresh butter -the size of a nutmeg. Stir gently now and then and, when cooked, beat -with a fork to break up the lumps and make all quite smooth. Take the -whites of four fresh eggs and place them on a large dinner plate; beat -these with a freshly _cleaned_ knife to a stiff froth which should -stand up. Put the whites into the apples in the saucepan (from which -the moisture should have been drained as much as possible) and stir -well with a large spoon. Turn the soufflé into a rather deep dish, -sprinkle about a teaspoonful of powdered sugar over the top, and place -in a moderate oven. Care must be taken not to slam the oven door or -place anything heavily on the top of the stove for fear the soufflé -will go down. It must not remain in the oven for more than ten to -fifteen minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked. - - -_169. Apple Charlotte_ - -Prepare the apples as for the soufflé. Take about four rather thin -slices of nice bread and cut them into diamond shapes. Put about one -ounce of fresh butter in an enamelled frying pan and lightly fry the -bread to a golden brown. Dust with a little powdered sugar and place -the bread on the dish to form a pyramid with the apples in the centre. -Put into the oven for about half an hour (slow oven) and serve on a -flat dish. - - -_170. Apple Tart_ - -Take about six apples and pare finely. Do not core them but cut them -in slices round the core. Put a teacupful of powdered sugar in a stone -saucepan. Add a very little cold water. Stew gently for half an hour -to three-quarters and turn into a pie-dish. Pastry as recipe No. 177. -Fresh fruit is always better cooked first before putting into the -pastry. - - -_171. Apple Fritters_ - -Pare, core, and cut into thin rings two good-sized apples. This should -not be done before they are wanted as they would quickly turn brown -if left standing. Have ready in a pastry bowl about a teacupful of -flour mixed with milk, smooth but very slack. Put about a quarter of a -pound of fresh tub lard in a frying pan and melt it over the fire till -hot, but guard against burning. Dip each slice of apple into the mixed -flour and then drop it into the hot lard. The fire should be hot enough -to allow these to cook with the top of the stove on. Turn over each -fritter once, and after three minutes dish them with a slice into a -dish with a strainer underneath. Dust over with a little powdered sugar -and serve. If they have to be kept hot till wanted, take care that the -dish is not covered or the oven door shut, as in that case they will -lose their crispness. - - -_172. Boiled Custard_ - -Mix with milk two tablespoonfuls of flour till perfectly smooth. Add -three beaten eggs, whites and yolks together, and about a pint of milk -with sugar to taste. Turn into a stone jar, and place the jar in a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Stir the mixture always one -way, till it thickens. Serve in custard cups. - - -_173. Tapioca or Sago Pudding_ - -Put the tapioca or sago about an inch thick at the bottom of the -pie-dish. Pour boiling milk on to it to about half a dishful and leave -it to soak for about half an hour. When cold add a beaten egg, sugar to -taste, and fill up the dish with cold milk. Put a little grated nutmeg -over the top and bake for two hours in a slow oven. - - -_174. Compote of Fresh Fruit_ - -Put six large pears, cut into quarters, into boiling syrup made of half -a pint of water and two breakfast-cupfuls of white sugar. Let the pears -stew for about twenty minutes and then put in six apples, cut in eight -pieces each, taking care not to core them before cutting but after. -Stew gently for another twenty minutes. Add three bananas cut in rings -just before dishing the compote. Serve cold in a glass dish. - - -_175. Rice Pudding_ - -Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with rice about an inch thick, and add -sugar to taste. Beat an egg in a cup and add it to the rice, mixing -it all together. Fill the dish with cold milk and add a little grated -nutmeg or several small pieces of lemon peel if preferred. Cook in a -slow oven for not less than two and a half hours. - - -_176. Stewed Prunes_ - -Put half a pound of prunes into a large pudding basin with cold water -and rub them gently with the fingers till thoroughly cleansed. Leave -them in the water for about ten minutes. Then turn the prunes with half -a teacup of powdered sugar into a saucepan and just cover them with hot -water. Cook from thirty to forty minutes. The juice should be perfectly -clear when cooked and the prunes whole. - - -_177. Christmas Pudding_ - -Take one and a half pounds of finely chopped beef suet, one quartern of -best pastry white (_not_ self-raising) flour, three pounds of stoned -raisins, two pounds of sultanas and two pounds of currants carefully -washed and picked, one and a half pounds of the best mixed peel, ten -well-beaten eggs, and four pounds of brown sugar. Stir all these -ingredients together with a pint of ale and half a bottle of brandy. -Stir fairly slack. This should make six very large puddings. Fill as -many buttered pudding basins as required, taking care that each basin -is full. Tie a wet cloth over each, and boil for twelve hours. Pour a -little neat brandy over the top of each and these puddings will then -keep for six months. Always boil again for four hours to make hot. - - -_178. Coffee Cream_ - -Let a half pint of freshly made coffee cool thoroughly. Mix three -tablespoonfuls of flour in milk till quite smooth. Turn three eggs well -beaten together into the milk and flour. Add the cold coffee and half a -pint of milk, sugar to taste. Cook as for custard. - - -_179. Plums or Damsons for a Tart or as Stewed Fruit_ - -Carefully look over one pound of plums or damsons, removing any unsound -ones. Put them into an earthenware saucepan with a teacupful of cold -water and two teacupfuls of sugar to the plums or three teacupfuls to -the damsons. Stew for one hour the damsons, or forty minutes the plums. - - -_180. Jam Tarts_ - -A breakfast-cupful and a half of self-raising flour, three ounces -of fresh butter, a well-beaten egg, and a little salt. Mix these -ingredients with milk into a stiff paste. Roll it very thin and have -ready a plate greased with hot butter and when cool lay a thin layer of -pastry on the plate, rub a little milk round the rim and spread the jam -over it not too thick. Cut some pastry in thin strips and lay across -like the spokes of a wheel. Bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Be -careful the jam is not too juicy. - - -_181. Stewed Rhubarb_ - -Remove the leaves and cut the other end of the rhubarb crosswise and -skin it. Cut it into pieces of about two inches long. Put it into a -saucepan (either earthenware or enamelled) and allow a small teacupful -of sugar to each three or four sticks of rhubarb. Add half a teacupful -of water, put over a brisk fire for forty minutes, when the rhubarb -should attain a rich red colour. This can be used either as stewed -rhubarb or put into a pie. - - -_182. Stewed Gooseberries_ - -Carefully pick a quart of gooseberries, discarding the unsound ones. -Put them into an earthenware saucepan with a teacupful of cold water -and three teacupfuls of sugar. Boil for about an hour, stirring now -and then to prevent them from burning. Serve either as stewed fruit or -for a pie. - - -_183. Macaroons_ - -Take half a pound of almonds peeled and dried in the oven, half a pound -of powdered sugar, three or four whites of eggs, one grated lemon. -Pound the almonds, moistening them from time to time with the beaten -whites of eggs. When they are reduced to a fine paste add the lemon -and sugar; work all perfectly together. Form the macaroons by putting -small pieces the size of a walnut upon a buttered baking tin. Cook in -a moderate oven till they have taken a beautiful brown tint. Let them -cool before taking them off the tin. Pass a thin-bladed knife under -them to remove them from the tin. - - -_184. Swiss Roll_ - -A good sponge powder is the very best and most reliable of all cake -mixtures. Directions for use will be found on every packet and the only -thing that to my mind improves it is the addition of a tablespoonful -of cream after the beaten eggs are mixed to the cake-powder. Nothing -could be easier than the following, and I have never had a failure: -Break two eggs into a large pudding basin, beat well with a fork, then -stir the cake-powder into the eggs quite smoothly. Add the cream. Have -ready the buttered tin, pour the mixture into it. Place in a quick oven -and bake for about ten minutes. Turn on to a sheet of clean white paper -which has been lightly dusted with a little powdered sugar. One packet -of cake mixture and two eggs will make either one nice-sized Swiss Roll -or a complete sponge sandwich. - -It will often be much easier to make a successful cake or light pastry -if the butter and lard are reduced to a cream before being added to -the other ingredients. Put your proportion of butter and lard (half -of each) into your pastry basin. Stir with the _hand_, one way only, -till it has become the consistency of a thick cream. Mix the rest of -the ingredients for your cake into it and moisten either with milk or -water. Cakes mixed by hand are much more satisfactory than those mixed -with a spoon. One is also much more sure of success if the mixture is -kept very stiff. - - -_185. Simple Recipe for a Chocolate Cake_ - -Take a quarter of a pound best white flour, a quarter of a pound -butter, the same of sifted fine white sugar, two ounces of grated -chocolate, and two eggs. Stir the butter in a pastry bowl with the -hand, one way as directed, till the butter is reduced to a smooth -cream. When this is done add the sugar (still stirring the one way). -Have the two eggs well beaten in a cup, stir them into the sugar -and flour, lastly the chocolate powder. Pour the mixture into a -well-buttered cake tin and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. - - -_186. Plain Christmas Cake_ - -Take one pound flour (household, not self-raising), half a pound of -currants which have been carefully washed and dried (this is best done -in a cullender under the tap and rubbed dry on a clean white cloth), -half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, two ounces of candied -lemon peel cut into thin strips, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, -three eggs well beaten, whites and yolks together, and half a pint of -milk, sour will do. - -Place the flour in the pastry bowl, thoroughly mix the baking-powder -into it, rub in the butter, add the sugar and currants and peel, stir -in the eggs, and mix all together with the milk. Butter your cake tin -and line it with a buttered sheet of white cooking paper, bake in a -steady but gentle oven for one and a half hours. - - -_187. Madeira Cake_ - -Take a quarter of a pound of household flour, one teaspoonful of -baking-powder, three ounces of butter, three ounces of fine white -sugar, and two eggs. Cream the butter, add first the sugar, then the -flour with the baking-powder, lastly the well-beaten eggs and half a -teacupful of milk. Care should be taken that the mixture is not mixed -too slack. Pour the mixture into a buttered cake tin and bake in a -gentle oven from thirty to forty minutes. - - -_188. Glengarry Cake_ - -Half a pound of best household white flour, two teaspoonfuls of -baking-powder, five ounces of butter, five ounces of powdered sugar, a -quarter of a pound of sultanas carefully washed and stalked. Reduce the -butter to cream in the bowl, add the sugar, flour, and baking-powder, -then the sultanas, mix well with the two beaten eggs, adding a little -milk if required. Place in a well-buttered cake tin, and bake in a -steady oven one and a half hours. - -_Note._ Carraway seeds can be used instead of sultanas if a seed cake -is required and a little sliced candied peel always put on the top of -the cake if desired. - - -_189. Surrey Cake_ - -Take three eggs, their weight in flour, powdered sugar, and butter, -half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla or almonds. - -Reduce the butter to cream in the bowl, add the flour and sugar, keep -stirring and beating the mixture without ceasing till it is quite -smooth, add the eggs well beaten. Butter and paper a cake tin, which -should never be more than half full of the cake. Bake in a steady oven -from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. - - -_190. Gâteau de Milan_ - -Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of -a pound of sugar, one whole egg, one yolk, a little salt, a grated rind -of lemon, and a teaspoonful of rum. Place the flour on a pastry board; -form it into a hillock with a hole in the centre; put into this the -butter, sugar, and eggs, lemon rind, beaten egg, and rum. Mix with the -hand with butter and sugar, then the flour and eggs and make all into -a ball. Roll it out to the thickness of little more than a quarter of -an inch, form into little cakes with a cake cutter; arrange them on a -baking-sheet of paper lightly buttered, brush them over lightly with -the yolk of the egg; bake in a steady oven for about fifteen to twenty -minutes. These cakes will keep well for some days if kept in a closed -tin. - - * * * * * - -_Note._ It is a golden rule worth remembering that all biscuits or -rusks (also cakes) will keep perfectly crisp if kept in a closed tin. -Cakes, of course, should not be placed under any cover till quite cold. - -The same cake mixture as for Gâteau de Milan may be treated in the -following manner to make quite a different cake. - -Instead of cutting the mixture into small cakes, make two rounds only -of the same size and thickness. Place them on a buttered baking tin, -but do not allow them to touch. From one of these pieces cut a round -out of the centre with a small cake cutter. Bake them in a steady oven -till they are a beautiful light brown colour; let them get cold. Upon -the piece that is not cut in the centre spread a layer of smooth jam, -place the other piece over it, trim the edges to have both exactly the -same size; on this border spread some more jam, then sprinkle with a -little sugar, not finely powdered but in grains. Arrange on a dish and -fill the hole in the centre with a little fruit jelly. - - -_191. Tea Cakes_ - -Take half a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, two yolks of eggs, -one whole egg, one and a half ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pint of -cream, and a little salt. Make the paste the same as for the Gâteau -de Milan, let it rest from ten to fifteen minutes. Roll out the paste -about an inch thick. Form into little cakes with a pastry cutter about -two inches round, brush lightly with the yolk of an egg and bake in a -good oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes. - - - THE END - - - PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY - WOODS AND SONS, LTD., LONDON, N.1 - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -In a few cases, obvious omissions or errors in punctuation were -corrected. - -The recipe for roast lamb is not numbered in the original. - -The recipe numbering in the original skips 91-99. - -Page 110: “be to prepared” changed to “to be prepared” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF COOKERY FOR A -SMALL HOUSE *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: A Handbook of Cookery for a Small House</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Jessie Conrad</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Contributor: Joseph Conrad</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: February 23, 2022 [eBook #67482]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Charlene Taylor and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF COOKERY FOR A SMALL HOUSE ***</div> - - - - -<p class="center p0 big">A<br /> -HANDBOOK OF COOKERY</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<div class="blockquot"> - -<p>THE ART AND PRACTICE OF INNKEEPING.</p> - -<p>By <span class="smcap">Alexander F. Part</span>.</p> - -<p>Demy 8vo. 10<abbr title="shillings">s.</abbr> 6<abbr title="pence">d.</abbr> net.</p> - - -<p class="p2">A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY.</p> - -<p>By <span class="smcap">A. Escoffier</span>.</p> - -<p>Demy 8<abbr title="volume">vo.</abbr> 21<abbr title="shillings">s.</abbr> net.</p> - - -<p class="p2">THE COMPLETE INDIAN HOUSEKEEPER AND COOK.</p> - -<p>By <span class="smcap">Flora Annie Steel</span> and <span class="smcap">Grace Gardiner</span>.</p> - -<p>Cr. 8<abbr title="volume">vo.</abbr> 7<abbr title="shillings">s.</abbr> 6<abbr title="pence">d.</abbr> net.</p> - - -<p class="p2">THE COOK’S DECAMERON.</p> - -<p>By Mrs. <span class="smcap">W. J. Waters</span>.</p> - -<p>Cr. 8<abbr title="volume">vo.</abbr> 2<abbr title="shillings">s.</abbr> 6<abbr title="pence">d.</abbr> net.</p> - - -<p class="p2">THE BELGIAN COOK BOOK</p> - -<p>Edited by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Brian Luck</span>.</p> - -<p>Cr. 8<abbr title="volume">vo.</abbr> 2<abbr title="shillings">s</abbr>. 6<abbr title="pence">d</abbr>. net.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>London: WILLIAM HEINEMANN, <abbr title="limited">Ltd</abbr>.</i></p> -</div> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<h1><span class="small">A</span><br /> -HANDBOOK OF COOKERY<br /> -<span class="small">FOR A SMALL HOUSE</span></h1> - -<p class="center p0 p2"><span class="small">BY</span><br /> -<span class="big">JESSIE CONRAD</span></p> - -<p class="center p0 p2"><span class="small"><i>With a preface by</i></span><br /> -Joseph Conrad</p> - -<p class="center p0 p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> - <img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Publisher logo" /> -</span></p> - -<p class="center p0 p2">London<br /> -<span class="big">WILLIAM HEINEMANN, <abbr title="limited">Ltd.</abbr></span> -</p> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - - -<p class="center p0 p2"><i>First published, February, 1923.</i></p> - - -<p class="center p0 p4"><i>Printed in Great Britain</i> -</p></div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>Of all the books produced since the most remote ages by human talents -and industry those only that treat of cooking are, from a moral point -of view, above suspicion. The intention of every other piece of prose -may be discussed and even mistrusted; but the purpose of a cookery book -is one and unmistakable. Its object can conceivably be no other than to -increase the happiness of mankind.</p> - -<p>This general consideration, and also a feeling of affectionate interest -with which I am accustomed to view all the actions of the writer, -prompt me to set down these few words of introduction for her book. -Without making myself responsible for her teaching (I own that I find -it impossible to read through a cookery book) I come forward modestly -but gratefully as a Living Example of her practice. That practice I -dare pronounce most successful. It has been for many priceless years -adding to the sum of my daily happiness.</p> - -<p>Good cooking is a moral agent. By good cooking I mean the conscientious -preparation of the simple food of every-day life, not the more or less -skillful <span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</span>concoction of idle feasts and rare dishes. Conscientious -cooking is an enemy to gluttony. The trained delicacy of the palate -like a cultivated delicacy of sentiment stands in the way of unseemly -excesses. The decency of our life is for a great part a matter of good -taste, of the correct appreciation of what is fine in simplicity. The -intimate influence of conscientious cooking by rendering easy the -processes of digestion promotes the serenity of mind, the graciousness -of thought, and that indulgent view of our neighbours’ failings which -is the only genuine form of optimism. Those are its titles to our -reverence.</p> - -<p>A great authority upon North American Indians accounted for the sombre -and excessive ferocity characteristic of these savages by the theory -that as a race they suffered from perpetual indigestion. The Noble -Red Man was a mighty hunter but his wives had not mastered the art of -conscientious cookery. And the consequences were deplorable. The Seven -Nations around the Great Lakes and the Horse-tribes of the Plains were -but one vast prey to raging dyspepsia. The Noble Red Men were great -warriors, great orators, great masters of outdoor pursuits; but the -domestic life of their wigwams was clouded by the morose irritability -which follows the consumption of ill-cooked food. The gluttony of their -indigestible feasts was a direct incentive to counsels of unreasonable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</span> -violence. Victims of gloomy imaginings, they lived in abject submission -to the wiles of a multitude of fraudulent medicine men—quacks—who -haunted their existence with vain promises and false nostrums from the -cradle to the grave.</p> - -<p>It is to be remarked that the quack of modern civilisation, the vendor -of patent medicine, preys mainly upon the races of Anglo-Saxon stock -who are also great warriors, great orators, mighty hunters, great -masters of outdoor pursuits. No virtues apparently will avail for -happiness if the righteous art of cooking be neglected by the national -conscience. We owe much to the fruitful meditations of our sages, but a -sane view of life is, after all, elaborated mainly in the kitchen—the -kitchen of the small house, the abode of the preponderant majority -of the people. And a sane view of life excludes the belief in patent -medicine. The conscientious cook is the natural enemy of the quack -without a conscience; and thus his labours make for the honesty and -favour the amenity of our existence. For a sane view of life can be -no other than kindly and joyous, but a believer in patent medicine -is steeped in the gloom of vague fears, the sombre attendants of -disordered digestion.</p> - -<p>Strong in this conviction I introduce this little book to the -inhabitants of the little houses who are the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</span> arbiters of the nation’s -destiny. Ignorant of the value of its methods I have no doubt whatever -as to its intention. It is highly moral. There cannot be the slightest -question as to that; for is it not a cookery book?—the only product of -the human mind altogether above suspicion.</p> - -<p>In that respect no more need, or indeed can, be said. As regards the -practical intention I gather that no more than the clear and concise -exposition of elementary principles has been the author’s aim. And this -too is laudable, because modesty is a becoming virtue in an artist. It -remains for me only to express the hope that by correctness of practice -and soundness of precept this little book will be able to add to the -cheerfulness of nations.</p> - -<p class="right p0"> -<span class="smcap">Joseph Conrad.</span> -</p> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - - - - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<th> -</th> -<th class="tdr"> -PAGE -</th> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#PREFACE"><span class="smcap">Preface</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_v">v</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#A_FEW_INTRODUCTORY_WORDS"><span class="smcap">A Few Introductory Words</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_1">1</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#GENERAL_REMARKS_ON_KITCHEN_REQUISITES_AND_THEIR_CARE"><span class="smcap">On Kitchen Requisites</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_4">4</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#ON_THE_TREATMENT_OF_VEGETABLES"><span class="smcap">Treatment of Vegetables</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_8">8</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#BREAKFAST_DISHES_ENTREES_SAVOURIES_STUFFINGS_SAUCES_HORS_DOEUVRES"><span class="smcap">Breakfast Dishes, Entrées, Savouries, Stuffings, Sauces, Hors d’œuvres, Sandwiches</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_25">25</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#SOUPS_STOCKS"><span class="smcap">Soups and Stocks</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_63">63</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#BEEF"><span class="smcap">Beef</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_71">71</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#MUTTON"><span class="smcap">Mutton</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_78">78</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#VEAL_AND_PORK"><span class="smcap">Veal and Pork</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_84">84</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#FISH"><span class="smcap">Fish</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_89">89</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#FOWLS_AND_GAME_BIRDS"><span class="smcap">Fowls and Game Birds</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_96">96</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#VEGETABLES_AND_SALADS"><span class="smcap">Vegetables and Salads</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_102">102</a> -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td> -<a href="#PASTRIES_SWEETS_AND_CAKES"><span class="smcap">Pastries, Sweets and Cakes</span></a> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -<a href="#Page_115">115</a> -</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="A_Handbook_of_Cookery"><i>A Handbook of Cookery<br /> -<span class="small">For a Small House</span></i></h2> -</div> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="A_FEW_INTRODUCTORY_WORDS">A FEW INTRODUCTORY WORDS</h2> - - -<p>Cooking ought not to take too much of one’s time. One hour and a half -to two hours for lunch, and two and a half for dinner is sufficient, -providing that the servant knows how to make up the fire in order to -get the stove ready for use. Most girls will quickly learn to do that -and how to put a joint properly in the oven. For my part I never went -into the kitchen before half-past eleven for a half-past one lunch of -three dishes. But once the cooking is begun one must give all one’s -attention and care to it. No dish, however simple, will cook itself. -You must not leave the kitchen while the cooking is going on—unless of -necessity and only for a very few minutes at a time.</p> - -<p>The bane of life in a small house is the smell of cooking. Very few -are free from it. And yet it need not be endured at all. This evil -yields to nothing more heroic than a simple but scrupulous <span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span>care in -all the processes in making food ready for consumption. That is why -your constant presence in the kitchen is recommended. Unremitting care -should be directed to the following points:</p> - -<p>No saucepan should be allowed of course to boil over.</p> - -<p>No frying pan should ever be put on the fire without the butter or lard -being first placed in it, and that not before the pan is required for -use.</p> - -<p>No joint should be placed in the oven so high as to allow the fat to -splutter against the roof of the oven.</p> - -<p>No joint should be baked in a tin which is too small for it.</p> - -<p>No vegetables should be cooked without a sufficient amount of water in -the saucepan and no green vegetables should be cooked with the lid on.</p> - -<p>No frying pan while in use should be allowed to remain on the fire with -only the fat in it. A piece of whatever you are frying, bacon, fish, -fritters should be left in till another piece is placed in the fat.</p> - -<p>The pan must be removed directly finished with.</p> - -<p>No fat once used for frying should be kept for future use. The economy -is not worth making. The fat, for instance, in which potatoes have been -fried will always contain a certain amount of moisture and the next lot -of potatoes fried in it will turn out greasy and flabby. Fried potatoes -should be crisp<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span> and melting in the mouth and if properly prepared make -a delicate dish for a discriminating palate.</p> - -<p>In the same way the fat used for fish however finely strained will -contain particles of fish or breadcrumbs which will be certain to catch -and cause an offensive smell. And the fish fried in such second-hand -fat may perhaps be eatable but will certainly not be worth eating.</p> - -<p>The above recommendations are founded on personal experience. The -author advances them with the greater confidence because she had to -find them out for herself. They present no difficulties in practice. If -they are exactly followed, and due regard is paid also to incidental -remarks of the same nature contained in the body of the book, your -little house need never be invaded by the smell of cooking, generally -so offensive and always unnecessary, which too often meets one in the -hall and in nine cases out of ten—if not in every case—means simply -that good food is being spoiled in the kitchen.</p> - -<p>The recipes in this book are calculated for a household of four -persons.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="GENERAL_REMARKS_ON_KITCHEN_REQUISITES_AND_THEIR_CARE">GENERAL REMARKS ON KITCHEN REQUISITES AND THEIR CARE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>This small book may be called the A. B. C. of cookery and the writer is -mainly anxious to give her experiences as a general guide and help both -for cooking and the preparing of an appetizing meal.</p> - -<p>Take for instance either a small flat in town or a cottage in the -country with one maid. It is quite possible to have two dishes for -breakfast with toast, tea or coffee, and to vary those dishes for every -day in the week. Easy breakfast dishes will be found in the body of the -book. All the statements in the book will justify themselves if the -directions are carefully followed.</p> - -<p>To begin with let us furnish our kitchen with those most necessary -utensils which should always be kept either in a drawer in the dresser -or in a dry cupboard. We shall need several enamelled basins of various -sizes, a fish slice, vegetable slice, wire salad basket, one or two -wooden spoons, two large iron ones, a good toasting fork; a small -Dutch-oven to hang in front of the fire (either to cook bloaters, or -chops, or even a steak if one prefers that form of cooking <span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span>to frying); -an apple corer, a potato ricer, one or two enamelled frying pans of -various sizes and depth. It is best to keep the pan that is to be -used for omelettes for that purpose alone, also the one that is to be -used for making pancakes. Care should be taken in purchasing these -articles as you will often find that some frying-pans will be deeper -in the middle while others will be found to rise and be deepest round -the edges. These are serious defects because the one that rises in the -centre will be useless for either omelettes or pancakes; the one that -sinks in the middle would be equally unsatisfactory as both will be -found to catch.</p> - -<p>A double saucepan will be needed either for boiling milk or making -porridge. We must not forget a fish kettle and a steamer. The care -of the tea-kettle is also important. Once the tea is made and the -kettle not needed for a time, the water should be turned out and the -kettle removed from the stove. If it is allowed to remain boiling or -nearly empty on the stove it will quickly become coated on the inside -and the water thick and cloudy. We will need an enamelled cullender, -a large cheese grater, a nutmeg grater, some cake tins of different -sizes, and pie-dishes. Our choice of saucepans should also be carefully -considered; it should contain at least two large iron ones and the -rest may be enamel. We <span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span>need two or three baking tins, some china and -block-tin moulds for jellies and a selection of fire-proof earthenware -of various shapes and sizes; wire strainers, to put under fish or -fried vegetables to drain them; an egg poacher, an egg-boiler which is -so much more reliable than even the best memory or the most accurate -clock. There is this golden rule that must always be observed: Never -attempt to make an omelette unless your fire is hot enough to cook it -with the top ring of the stove on. This rule of course applies also -to the pancakes, fritters, or to any form of frying. For if you are -frying a steak or cutlets, fish, potatoes or bacon, you will require -to put the top of the stove on after the first few minutes. Otherwise -your meat or fish will be liable to burn on the surface and remain raw -inside.</p> - -<p>All the utensils must be washed in hot soda water and thoroughly dried -before putting them away. Having regard to the fact that soda is most -injurious to one’s hands, and whether for the mistress or maid the care -and appearance of one’s hands is of great importance, it is best to -place the saucepans, pans, etc. (not earthenware) on the stove with a -certain amount of water and a good piece of soda, and let them stand -to soak on the side of the hot stove, together with such articles as -ricer, poacher, strainer, etc. When ready to wash them up scour well -with <span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span>a long-handled pot brush, pour off the soda water, rinse in clean -hot water, and dry with a cloth. They can then be placed on the rack -above the stove to dry thoroughly. In this way the hands need not come -in contact with the soda water at all.</p> - -<p>We shall also need a nice smooth pastry board, a rolling pin, and a -small board for chopping parsley or mint. The meat chopper and the -mincer and the meat-saw will require to be kept perfectly clean and dry -to avoid rust, and should always be carefully wiped with a dry cloth -before being used. Should earthenware cooking-vessels or pie-dishes -become burnt, as is sometimes unavoidable, a little rough cooking salt, -or a little ashes rubbed on the burnt surface will be found effective.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="ON_THE_TREATMENT_OF_VEGETABLES">ON THE TREATMENT OF VEGETABLES</h2> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>With a Few Illustrative Recipes</i></p> - - -<p>Great care should be taken in the use of an onion. One often finds that -if by accident a knife used for cutting an onion has been overlooked -and it comes in contact with any article of food the flavour of the -onion will spoil everything. It is also a fact that if an onion is cut -before it is put into soup or sauce, the soup at once becomes cloudy, -while on the other hand if it is merely peeled and put in whole, soup -or sauce will remain perfectly clear. Then again for onion sauce or -soup which would be made with milk, you must never put in any salt or -any other ingredient till <em>after</em> the milk has boiled. If the -onion is added before, the milk will curdle and be spoilt.</p> - -<p>If you want to fry onions for steak, etc., have some good beef dripping -already melted in a baking tin and when it is boiling put in the -quantity of onions you may wish to cook cut in thin slices (cut always -round the onion) then add salt and pepper to taste and bake in a steady -oven, turning them once or twice with the blade of a knife.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span></p> - -<p>For stuffing for either meat or poultry never put the onions in water. -Cut thin as above directed (never chop) and <em>boil</em> in a deep -frying pan in butter. By boiling I mean using a larger quantity of fat -and not allowing the onions to be browned: one-fourth <abbr title="pound">lb.</abbr> will be quite -sufficient for stuffing intended for a goose. Have ready on the board -the crumb of a stale white loaf rubbed through a cheese-grater, and -from four to five large sage leaves chopped fine. Mix the two together -with pepper and salt to taste, turn the whole contents of the pan into -the crumbs and chop finely all together. In this way the stuffing will -be found moist and will not repeat after eating.</p> - -<p>In cooking green vegetables use common soda not bi-carbonate. They -should be always put into <em>boiling</em> water.</p> - -<p>Fresh peas should never be shelled over night and should be kept in a -covered dish after shelling till it is time for them to be cooked. Peas -will become quite tough if exposed to the air for any length of time. -Always put into boiling water, never add salt or soda till the peas are -boiling. Scarlet runner beans should only be cut in strips in time for -boiling as the edges become hard and dry if left for more than an hour. -These are best kept in cold water. Dwarf beans should be treated in the -same manner, but can be served with only the ends and edges removed.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<p>All salads should be put into a bowl of cold water with a good piece -of salt for not more than ten minutes before needed. A wire basket -swung round vigorously will be found the best mode of drying all salads -before dressing.</p> - -<p>If lettuce is to be cooked, cos-lettuce will be found better than the -cabbage variety. It will become greatly reduced in the cooking and is -much improved by being lightly sauté in a frying pan in which a finely -shredded spring onion has been lightly fried in a little butter. Form -into small mounds with a tablespoon, and serve very hot.</p> - -<p>Cabbage and cauliflower should be put for awhile before cooking into a -bowl of cold water with a good piece of salt, head down and the stump -cut four times across.</p> - -<p>Spinach requires washing in several waters with a liberal quantity of -salt. But the last water without salt. Have ready a large saucepan -at least half full of boiling water. If, as some people direct, you -put spinach into a nearly dry saucepan on the assumption that it has -absorbed enough water to be cooked in, there will be an unpleasant -smell. Add salt and a piece of ordinary soda about as big as a large -pea. Boil with the lid off till quite tender. The spinach should then -be a beautiful shade of green. Treat sorrel the same way; only <span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span>it -will be noticed that it will change colour directly it is put into the -boiling water, becoming a greeny yellow, and is slightly acid in taste. -It is usually eaten with veal, with poached eggs served on it, or as a -dish by itself served with fried bread round the edge.</p> - -<p>Tomatoes are always very useful and can be accommodated in many -different ways. For a breakfast dish—take, for two persons, four -nice sound tomatoes. Place in a large basin and scald with boiling -water over them. The skin will then peel off quite easily leaving the -tomatoes perfectly whole. Cut into slices and put into a cold pan with -a piece of butter about the size of a tablespoon and a pinch of salt -and pepper. Place on the fire and break the tomatoes in the butter -as they cook. Let them fry frequently and serve under poached eggs. -Another way: Take four or more tomatoes, remove the stalk but not the -skin. Cut the top off, scoop the fruit out leaving a wall, have ready -some chopped lean ham, chicken or other meat, add a little onion to -the inside which has been taken out of the tomatoes, pepper and salt. -Put into a small frying pan, and fry lightly, put the mixture into -the tomato, have a little dripping melted in a baking tin, place the -tomatoes into it, when hot put the top on the tomato to form a lid and -bake from 15 to 20 minutes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> - -<p>In preparing mushrooms, peel carefully the skin, gently pull the stalk -out and lay them dark side down in a little cold water with a good knob -of cooking salt, this will remove any grit or insects. Have ready a -flat frying pan large enough to take the mushrooms lying flat; lay each -one dark side down and boil in butter gently for about seven minutes, -turn them over with the blade of a knife and let them continue cooking -for another ten minutes to a quarter of an hour; pepper and salt to -taste. Or in another way, take a large flat frying pan; put into it -about an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar, -place over a quick fire and let it burn slightly. That is to say it is -ready when it smokes. Lay the mushrooms as before directed, proceed in -the same way, adding only a little finely chopped onion in the centre -of each mushroom, place dark side up either on toast buttered or on -a flat dish, pour over the butter from the pan and serve very hot. -Sprinkle thinly with chopped onion after the mushrooms are in the dish.</p> - -<p>Mushroom rissoles make an excellent breakfast dish and may be served in -little stone marmites instead of pastry. Carefully wash mushrooms as -directed above. Take a little strong beef gravy (not bovril or other -meat essence) cut the mushrooms into lengths, each one into four or -five, put them into <span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span>a small saucepan with pepper and salt and enough -gravy to cover, stew for an hour. Thicken with a little flour mixed -smoothly with water. This can be kept over night and warmed in the -morning.</p> - -<p>Turnips make a very good dish with roast pork, treated as follows: -Carefully peel ten or twelve nice firm turnips, reject the woolly as -they are not worth cooking (except for flavouring); cut into slices, -then into lengths, then into small squares (the appearance of a dish is -as important as the taste); boil gently for about half an hour or until -tender, strain and serve very hot with a little melted butter poured -over them, pepper and salt to taste.</p> - -<p>Carrots, if very young, must on no account be peeled, but only lightly -scraped and then cooked in a covered saucepan till tender. Serve very -hot with a little melted butter and a little finely chopped parsley -sprinkled over them. Care should be taken not to boil too long as these -tender young vegetables are apt to become soft and tasteless. When the -carrots are older and bigger they should be carefully peeled and cut in -rings about one-eighth of an inch thick. There is also this pretty and -appetising way to serve carrots. Cook them as above directed and have -ready the following in a lined saucepan (double saucepan): a half pint -of boiling milk with salt to taste, one and a half level tablespoonfuls -of household flour <span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span>mixed smoothly in a basin with a half ounce of -butter. Should the butter be hard and difficult to mix smooth, place -the basin on the stove till the butter is soft enough to handle with a -firm spoon. When mixed pour the boiling milk straight into the flour -and butter stirring all the time, and always the same way; put back -into the double saucepan and stir till it boils, add the cooked carrot -and serve very hot as an additional vegetable or as a separate dish. -Should the sauce be sticky or too thick judgment which will come with -experience will quickly show the error to be a little too much flour -or careless mixing. This sauce is also useful to compose a lunch dish -with, by adding to it some chopped roast chicken and a thin slice of -onion instead of carrots. Serve in a rather deep dish with croutons of -fried bread or dry toast round the edge. A tin of prawns can be used -instead of chicken in which case a small teaspoonful of anchovy sauce -may be added at the last, instead of salt, as the prawns may be already -a little salt.</p> - -<p>Potatoes are to my mind one of the most ill-used vegetables we have. -They require simple care to make them a useful and welcome addition -to at least two meals in the day. Too often I have found the greatest -carelessness in the cooking of a simple potato. Often at an English inn -potatoes are impossible, even more so than other vegetables, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> yet -we English people have the best potatoes in the world! It is indeed -a fact that in the case of the poor potato, God sends the food, and -the devil the cooks! One common error is to peel the potatoes hours -before they are to be cooked and to leave them in water; another -to peel them (because the weather is cold) in quite hot water, or, -worse still, then shut them down in a saucepan on the side of the -stove ever so long before they are required. In this way the potato -is spoilt before it has even boiled. It is quite possible to use up -even cold potatoes in an appetising manner. None need ever be wasted -if the following hints are taken and the sound advice of many years’ -experience is followed. For new potatoes pick out those as much of a -size as possible, carefully scrape them, remove any eyes, rinse in -clear cold water and put into enough boiling water to cover well; add -a sprig of mint (in one piece) and a piece of salt put in a saucepan -preferably not iron and boil gently till tender which can easily be -found by trying them with a fork. When cooked, strain, remove the mint, -put into the saucepan a knob of butter while the potatoes are there -and serve as quickly as possible with a little finely chopped parsley -on them. The object of the butter is not only to improve the taste and -appearance but it also helps to prevent the sort of preserved taste -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span>one so often gets in hotel cooking. As the potatoes get older it is -better to put them to boil into cold water, and directly they are too -old to scrape freely, no mint is necessary or advisable. Some potatoes -are best strained before they are quite cooked and then shut down in -the saucepan to finish in their steam. If the potatoes are not to be -used at once (say when a meal is delayed longer than expected for some -reason), it is a good idea either to rice them in a ricer or to mash -them. In that way they will not have an unpleasant taste and can be -kept hot for some time and still be quite palatable.</p> - -<p>Often one has some cold potatoes left say from lunch, cut them into -slices, put about ½ an oz. of butter into a frying pan and when melted -and hot lay each slice of potato flat in the hot butter, fry quickly -over a brisk fire till they attain a golden-brown colour. Care must be -taken that they do not burn.</p> - -<p>Cold potatoes can also be used for hot cakes as follows: Take the -remains of any boiled potatoes, break them into a bowl, take a -breakfast cup and a half of flour (for this quantity of flour about the -value of eight potatoes would be necessary) rub them smoothly into the -flour, add two ounces of butter, salt, a little baking-powder (unless -self-raising flour is used) mix as for pastry with a little milk (sour -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span>will do) and if possible an egg beaten into it, form into small cakes -and bake on larded paper in a quick oven, serve hot with sugar and -butter to be spread on them.</p> - -<p>For fried potatoes care should be taken to follow these directions -carefully: Peel your potatoes and cut them into slices about one-half -an inch thick, then into strips, each slice let us say into four, let -them lay in a bowl of cold water till wanted for frying. Take a large -deep frying pan in which you have melted one-fourth pound of best tub -lard, place over a quick fire taking care not to let it burn, and when -it is ready (which is easily found out by dropping one piece of potato -into the fat—it should sizzle at once), take the potatoes out of the -water by hand and drop straight into the boiling lard. Turn carefully -from time to time with a knife blade. Remove them with a slice into a -vegetable dish in which there is a strainer (stone for preference), and -place in the oven with an open door till required; but serve as soon -as possible. Never put the cover on the dish or allow the oven door -to be shut as the potatoes would not then keep quite crisp. Never add -salt till ready in the dish, when a little should be sprinkled over the -potatoes.</p> - -<p>For straw potatoes proceed in the same way; only these will require -less time for cooking and will need to be cut very much thinner and -smaller.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p> - -<p>For soufflé potatoes cut them into thin slices and dry them on a clean -cloth. Lay them in a little milk for a moment and then put them into -the boiling fat straight out of the milk. If these directions are -carefully followed there should be a crisp brown bubble on each side -of the slice of the potato. These also must not be covered or have the -oven door closed on them.</p> - -<p>There is also another simple way of treating an old potato. Often -toward the end of the year when one’s potatoes run large and we are -anxious to give a dish a dainty appearance we find that the large -potato served whole looks clumsy. If the potatoes are carefully peeled -and any unsightly blemishes are removed such as the eye or as so often -happens there are bluey patches due to a bruise perhaps on the potatoes -otherwise perfectly sound, the following hint may be found both useful -and economical. Take a stout teaspoon and scoop spoonfuls from the -<em>outside</em> of a big potato. (The broken remains can be used in soup -say either beef or mutton stock. Recipe for this with soups.) When you -have sufficient potatoes ready you can either fry in dripping (in which -case do not attempt to make them crisp) or boil them very gently, or -bake them under a joint, etc. They will be best baked or fried. They -can then be served laid round a dish of fish (fried<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> or boiled) or -round a dish of roast meat previously carved and laid down the centre -of a dish or with kidneys and bacon or with liver and bacon.</p> - -<p>Celery used as a vegetable will be found very palatable cooked in the -following manner. Take two or three heads of celery, wash carefully in -fresh cold water and a little salt, have ready any little beef, veal, -or chicken stock, bring this to a boil and cook the celery in it. From -30 to 40 minutes should be long enough to render the celery soft. Serve -in a vegetable dish with the gravy poured over it, sufficient only to -just cover, having previously stirred a teaspoonful of cornflour mixed -with cold water into it.</p> - -<p>Beet-root may be prepared either cold to serve with cold beef or as a -hot vegetable dish best served with roast mutton.</p> - -<p>For cold, have four or five round small beet-roots washed, handling -them carefully and taking the greatest care not to break off any tender -shoots, and avoiding cutting the leaf-end too near the top of the -beet-root. Have a saucepan large enough to take the beet-root without -breaking it. Boil gently with a good piece of salt from 40 minutes to -an hour, or even a little longer, according to the size. Prick with -a carving fork to see if quite tender, then lay them on a strainer -and when cool enough to hold <span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>in the fingers remove the peel and cut -into thin rings. Lay them in a dish of vinegar (a deep glass dish is -best), dust over two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and allow to get -thoroughly cold before serving. The object of the sugar in the vinegar -is to draw the colour out of the beet-root and to remove the sourness. -More or less sugar may be used according to individual taste but the -proportion given is generally right.</p> - -<p>The beet-root already boiled may be used for the following dish:</p> - -<p>Cut into a little thicker slices, then into strips, then into little -squares. Have ready in a deep enamel frying pan a quantity of melted -butter, put the diced beet-root into it with a pinch of salt and a -little cream (or, if not available, a little milk) and bring the -mixture to a boil, taking care not to break the vegetable when stirring -with a knife blade. Mix a teaspoonful of cornflour with a little milk, -stir into the beet-root while on the stove, serve round the dish of -sliced mutton or separately very hot.</p> - -<p>Leeks can often be made to take the place of onions and are a very -useful vegetable cooked in either of the following ways. Take from -twelve to twenty leeks, wash well in cold water, being careful to -remove all grit. It will be found necessary nearly always to split -them, to be sure that they are quite clean. Stew them in beef stock -till quite tender. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span>(This vegetable does not require any soda in the -cooking and is best cooked in stock.) Strain and serve when quite -tender. Another way is to cut each leek into four, lengthwise, and bake -in dripping, as directed to do with the onion.</p> - -<p>The Drumhead or white cabbage has no appearance if cooked only as a -cabbage, but a useful dish may be made in the following manner. Take -a large cabbage, remove the white stiff stalk running down the leaf -with a sharp knife. Put the leaves into a large saucepan of boiling -water, cook as for ordinary cabbage except that the leaves will all -be separate. When tender spread on a large dish to cool. Prepare some -finely minced meat, beef, ham, veal or mutton, chicken or lamb, about -half a teacup of freshly boiled rice salted to taste. (The value of -two tablespoonfuls of rice will be enough to make half a teacup.) The -rice to have been boiled in water and not too soft. Mix with the minced -meat and having spread each cabbage leaf open, fill with the mixture, -leaving enough of the leaf clear to roll round the meat. Have a deep -frying pan on the fire half full of either beef or mutton stock, bring -to a boil and place each stuffed leaf in the stock and cook for ten -minutes; remove with a slice on to a deep dish and serve at once very -hot.</p><p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span></p><h2 class="nobreak" id="RECIPES">RECIPES</h2> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span></p> -<div class="chapter"> -<h3 class="nobreak" id="BREAKFAST_DISHES_ENTREES_SAVOURIES_STUFFINGS_SAUCES_HORS_DOEUVRES">BREAKFAST DISHES, ENTRÉES, SAVOURIES, STUFFINGS, SAUCES, HORS D’ŒUVRES, -AND SANDWICHES</h3> -</div> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<p>Small savouries are useful to lengthen a lunch or dinner without making -the whole meal too heavy.</p> - -<p>Their materials are often what is left over of various dishes. -Therefore the remnants that are kept should be always put away with -care and separated from each other.</p> - -<p>Cut onion should never be kept in the safe containing butter or milk.</p> - -<p>Raw bacon should be laid in the dish on the rind.</p> - -<p>A tin of sardines should never be left open more than twenty-four hours.</p> - -<p>Tinned salmon must be used at once.</p> - -<p>Bottled tomatoes may be partly used and re-corked for a few days.</p> - -<p>Bottled olives must be re-corked tightly after use. Take care that the -liquid covers the olives. The same for capers, chillies, and anchovies.</p> - -<p>The salad basket and potato ricer should be dried on the shelf over the -stove after being wiped.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p> - -<p>When boiling milk enters into the composition of any dish the saucepan -should be first wetted inside with cold water.</p> - - -<h4><i>1. Omelettes</i></h4> - - -<p><i>Plain.</i> Break four new laid eggs into a basin and beat lightly -with a fork. Add a pinch of salt and a dessertspoonful of milk. Have -ready in an enamelled frying pan about half an ounce of hot butter, -tilting the pan to cause the butter to run all over it. Place the pan -over the fire with the stove top on. Pour the beaten eggs into it. -Run the knife round the rim of the omelette. Cook not more than seven -minutes. Sprinkle over a few fine herbs or a little chopped parsley and -fold it over twice on a very hot dish. The omelette when dished should -be moist in the centre.</p> - - -<p><i>Truffled.</i> Prepare the eggs as above. Chop finely three truffles -and beat into the eggs. Cook in the same manner as the plain omelette -and serve with the rest of the bottle of truffles cut in thin slices -and laid down the centre of the omelette after it is folded.</p> - - -<p><i>Savoury.</i> Take the livers of two fowls, one rasher of bacon, a -slice of onion and a pinch of mixed herbs. Melt in the frying pan a -piece of butter about the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span>size of a walnut. Put the livers, bacon, -and herbs into the hot butter. Fry very gently for about seven to ten -minutes and when cooked chop very fine. Cook the omelette as above and -spread the mixture along the middle while still in the pan. Turn the -omelette sides over and serve on a hot dish.</p> - - -<p><i>Cheese.</i> Prepare the eggs as above. Rub on a cheese grater a -piece of Gruyère cheese to make about four tablespoonfuls. Turn the -eggs into the pan. Dust three parts of grated cheese over the omelette -whilst still in the pan. Dish with a slice and dust over it the -remainder of the cheese; fold and place it in the oven for one minute.</p> - - -<p><i>Green Peas.</i> Prepare the eggs as above. Take a teacup of cold -cooked green peas and stir them into the basin with the eggs. Pour -into the hot butter in the pan as for a plain omelette, fold over with -the slice and serve on a hot dish. It will be noticed that sometimes -the omelette will rise in a bubble and smoke. Directly this is noticed -pass the blade of the knife under from the sides and let the air out, -otherwise it will burn.</p> - -<p>Cold potatoes cut into discs can be used instead of the peas for the -omelette.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>2. Eggs and Bacon</i></h4> - -<p>This dish is perhaps the most appetising breakfast dish and yet often -the most unpleasant on account of the smell. Cooked in the following -way there should be no smell at all. Take the rashers of bacon and -carefully remove all the rind. Use preferably an enamelled frying pan -in which a piece of butter the size of a walnut has been made hot. -Lay the bacon in this. The stove should be hot enough to cook the -bacon with the top on. Turn the bacon twice and cook for eight to -ten minutes. Dish on a hot flat dish. Allow an egg for each rasher, -breaking the eggs lightly without breaking the yolks into a cup one -at a time and turn into the pan. Allow the boiling fat to run round -the eggs. Cook for three minutes and dish with a slice placing one egg -on each rasher of bacon. The pan when removed from the stove must not -be put into the sink as the cold water there will cause it to smell -unpleasantly.</p> - - -<h4><i>3. Boiled Bacon</i></h4> - -<p>Take not less than two pounds cut out of the small back. Plunge in a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Boil briskly for one hour.</p> - -<p>When put on a dish the rind will tear off quite<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> easily. Remove it and -dust the part over thickly with baked breadcrumbs.</p> - - -<h4><i>4. Sausages</i></h4> - -<p>Prick the sausages well with a fork. Lay in a flat meat dish and cook -for twenty to twenty-five minutes not on the stove but in a fairly -quick oven. This prevents all smell and they will be well cooked.</p> - - -<h4><i>5. Sausage Rolls</i></h4> - -<p>Prick one pound of best pork sausages and bake in the oven for twenty -minutes on a flat dish. Cut each sausage lengthwise, roll round each -half a thin rasher of raw bacon, put into a paste (as for meat pie, -rec: <a href="#r156">156</a>), wrap in hot buttered paper and bake for another twenty -minutes.</p> - - -<h4><i>6. Eggs in Gravy</i></h4> - -<p>Boil two or three eggs for not longer than three minutes, drop them for -a few seconds into a bowl of cold water to chill them sufficiently to -be held with the fingers. Carefully remove the shell without breaking -the shape of the egg. Lay each carefully in a buttered dish side by -side. The eggs if properly cooked will immediately acquire a flat -shape. Pour over them a little good meat gravy and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> serve at once. The -eggs thus prepared should not be hard; but it is difficult sometimes -when removing the shell to leave the egg whole. Great care is required.</p> - - -<h4><i>7. Eggs with Chicken Livers</i></h4> - -<p>Put into a little stone marmite dish (fire-proof) a little butter and -half the liver of a good sized fowl. (Two fowls’ livers would make four -or five little dishes.) When the liver is nearly cooked (the little -dishes having been placed each on the hot top plate of the stove), drop -a whole egg without breaking the yolk into each and allow to cook from -three to five minutes. Serve in the dishes in which they have been -cooked.</p> - -<p>Eggs can be also poached in marmite dishes but instead of butter you -must half fill each dish with fresh cream and add a pinch of salt and a -pinch of chopped parsley at the last moment on top of each egg.</p> - - -<h4><i>8. Herring Roes on Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Take the roes from the tin or glass box, gently part with a knife, put -them into a shallow pie-dish with a little pepper and butter. Cover -with dish cover and stand in the oven for ten minutes. Have ready hot -buttered toast and lay the roes on the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span>toast. Put a little white -pepper on them and a tiny scrap of butter and replace in the oven for a -moment before serving.</p> - - -<h4><i>9. Poached Eggs on Anchovy Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Butter several good slices of toast and spread with a little anchovy -paste. Take an egg poacher and put over the fire to boil. Turn an egg -into each ring, being careful not to break the yolk. Cook for three -minutes lightly. Pass the blade of the knife round each rim of the -egg, pinch the machine to open it, the eggs then remaining on the flat -slice. Run the knife under each one and it is easy then to place them -on the toast.</p> - - -<h4><i>10. Poached Eggs and Tomato Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Scald four tomatoes and remove the skin, slice them into a small -enamelled frying pan in which a piece of butter the size of a walnut -has been made hot, a little pepper and salt. Chop them with a knife -whilst frying, thus reducing them to a paste. Spread this over the hot -buttered toast and put a poached egg on the top.</p> - - -<h4><i>11. Breakfast Dish</i></h4> - -<p>Have the paste made ready as for meat pie, take six thin rashers of -bacon and cut them in halves.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> Roll the paste thin on the board and lay -half a rasher of bacon on each piece of paste. Cut the paste a little -bigger than the bacon. Dust a little finely chopped onion and a tiny -pinch of sweet herbs over each piece of bacon. Roll paste and bacon -together (paste outside) and cook on hot buttered paper for fifteen -minutes in a quick oven.</p> - - -<h4><i>12. Haricot Breakfast Dish</i></h4> - -<p>Put to soak for twelve hours a pint of small haricot beans. Strain them -and pick out the brown ones which are not needed. Turn them into a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water with salt and a little pinch -of soda. Boil gently for two hours, or until quite soft but whole; -strain and put into a stone jar. Cover them with good beef stock. Add -three cut rashers of bacon, fat and lean together, with one slice of -very finely chopped onion and some tomato sauce (made after the recipe -given with skinned tomatoes). Leave in the oven all night and make it -hot in the morning before serving.</p> - - -<h4><i>13. Devilled Drumsticks</i></h4> - -<p>Take four drumsticks of fowls, put half an ounce of fresh butter in an -enamelled frying pan, make it hot and lay the drumsticks in it. Dust -over them a little red pepper and about half a flat teaspoonful of -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span>some good curry powder. Roll them over and over in the butter and dish -with a strainer.</p> - - -<h4><i>14. Devilled Sheep’s Kidneys on Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Remove the skin from say two sheep’s kidneys and cut them in halves. -Put into an enamelled frying pan about half ounce of fresh butter and -make it hot. Lay the kidneys in the butter the cut side down. Cook over -a brisk fire with the stove top off for five minutes. Turn once. Then -replace the stove top and stand the frying pan again on it for five -to ten minutes more. Have ready enough buttered toast to take half -a kidney on each slice of toast. Dust the kidneys with a little red -pepper before placing on the toast. Put on each kidney a little fresh -butter about the size of a pea, place on the toast and serve very hot. -Ox kidney may be used in the same way cut into slices.</p> - - -<h4><i>15. Croquettes</i></h4> - -<p>Chop with a mincer very fine any remains of cold chicken or any cold -meat with one ring of Spanish onion and a tiny pinch of salt and a -drain of meat juice. Stir all this well in a plate, break into the -mixture a freshly beaten egg, add a teaspoonful of finely rubbed -breadcrumbs or rusk crumbs. Roll a tablespoonful at a time into another -freshly beaten <span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span>egg and then into the rolled rusk crumbs. Form into -short sausage shapes or balls and fry in boiling lard or dripping for -seven to ten minutes. Dish with a slice and serve hot, garnished with a -little parsley.</p> - -<p>Fish croquettes are made in the same way using any fish that may be -left over, after carefully removing all the bones, and adding a little -cold boiled potato.</p> - - -<h4><i>16. To Dress Cold Fowl</i></h4> - -<p>Cut into small pieces, leg generally in two. Put into a saucepan and -cover with milk, first putting a little water in the saucepan to -prevent the milk burning. Grate half a nutmeg, add pepper and salt. -When it has boiled, but not before, slice half of a fairly large -Spanish onion into the saucepan. Boil for three-quarters of an hour. -Thicken before serving with a little flour and butter, which should -be mixed very smooth with a little of the boiling milk out of the -saucepan. Bring to a boil and serve in the saucepan with a napkin -wrapped round it.</p> - - -<h4><i>17. Shepherd’s Pie</i></h4> - -<p>Cut the remains of any cold roast beef into small pieces and place in -a dish. Slice about a quarter of a Spanish onion finely on the top, -add two tomatoes cut very small, pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful -of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> Worcester sauce, half a teaspoonful of bovril stirred in half a -teacupful of water, or a little meat juice. Place in the oven uncovered -for a quarter of an hour. Then take out and fill up the dish with -mashed potatoes. Place a few thin slices of onion on the top, a piece -of butter, and replace in the oven for three-quarters of an hour so as -to brown the top nicely.</p> - - -<h4><i>18. Tripe and Onions</i></h4> - -<p>Wash in cold water and remove all fat from two pounds of fresh tripe -and cut into narrow strips about two inches long. Melt in an enamelled -frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter turning the tripe into -it. Fry lightly, not allowing to brown. Dish with a slice into a -stone saucepan, leaving the butter in the pan. In the same butter fry -lightly one and a half Spanish onions sliced and add to the tripe in -the saucepan, with a little salt and a glass of sherry, one piece of -loaf sugar, and a finely cut up carrot. Add enough water to cover and -stew gently for one and a half hours. Thicken with a little flour mixed -smooth with cold water and serve in the stone saucepan with a table -napkin tied round it.</p> - - -<p><i>Note.</i> Pig’s trotters may be added to this dish but in this case -they must be soaked for two hours before cooking and added to the tripe -when cooked.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>19. Haricot Mutton</i></h4> - -<p>Soak a pint of small haricot beans overnight, carefully pick out the -brown ones and rinse through three waters in the morning. Have ready a -metal saucepan with about three pints of water. When boiling, pour the -haricots into it with a good pinch of salt and a small piece of soda. -Boil gently for two and a half hours. They are then ready to be added -to the mutton. Cut into small pieces two or three pounds of best end of -neck of mutton, remove the fat and put the meat into a stone saucepan, -cover with water, add one turnip cut into long pieces, one Spanish -onion, pepper and salt and a pinch of fine herbs. Remove the scum as it -rises and cook for two hours. Add then the beans which should be quite -soft and peel of their own accord when exposed to the air. Thicken -with a little carefully mixed flour and water and serve in the stone -saucepan with a table napkin wrapped round it.</p> - - -<h4><i>20. Sweetbreads</i></h4> - -<p>Soak for half an hour two sweetbreads in cold water with a pinch of -salt. Drop them in boiling water. After twenty minutes take them out, -remove the skin and roll them first in a well-beaten egg and then in -rolled rusk crumbs. Bake in a tin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> in a quick oven for three-quarters -of an hour with a large piece of butter or dripping. Place on a dish -and after turning the fat out of the tin put in a little good meat -juice and bring it to a boil over the fire. Add then a little smoothly -mixed flour and water and when thickened sufficiently strain through a -gravy strainer over the sweetbreads. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>21. Sweetbreads—Another Way</i></h4> - -<p>Soak for half an hour in cold water with a pinch of salt, then drop -them into boiling water. At the end of twenty minutes take out and, -after removing the outer skin, cut into slices. Have ready some fresh -butter in an enamelled frying pan. Fry the sliced sweetbreads lightly -for a quarter of an hour. Lay on a dish and squeeze a little lemon -juice on each slice allowing a quarter of a lemon for the whole of the -sweetbread.</p> - - -<h4><i>22. Steak and Kidney Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Take one and a half pounds of thick steak and cut into pieces of about -an inch. Have an ox kidney cut into small pieces and a basin well -buttered. With half a pound of beef suet, chopped fine, and two and a -half to three breakfast-cups of self-raising flour, make a stiff paste, -mixing with tepid water.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> Line the basin with the paste. Put the steak -and kidney in, add about half a teaspoonful of salt, sprinkle a little -dry flour over the meat, put the crust on and cover the basin with a -wet cloth which should be tied securely with string. Boil for three and -a half hours. At the end of that time take the cloth off and serve in -the basin (stood in a dish) with a fluted paper collar round it. Make a -small hole in the top of the pudding and pour in about half a teacupful -of hot gravy made from any small pieces of meat left over before -serving.</p> - - -<h4><i>23. Calf’s Kidney on Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Skin and split in two a calf’s kidney. Melt in a frying pan about an -ounce of fresh butter, and place the kidney in this with one very thin -slice of Spanish onion for each half of kidney—one rasher of bacon, -chopped very fine, to be put in the pan also. Cook as for sheep’s -kidneys, but without the red pepper. Prepare some hot toast, lay upon -it the slice of onion, which should be kept whole if possible, and -then the kidney. Dust a little portion of the bacon over it with a -little pepper and salt. Turn the butter out of the pan, put a little -meat juice from under the dripping (about an egg-cupful) and half a -tablespoonful of white wine, the juice of a quarter of a lemon (half -a teaspoonful of vinegar will serve if the lemon <span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span>is not available), -thicken with a little flour and water (first mixed smooth), and pour -through a gravy strainer over the kidney. Serve very hot. The best way -to prepare the toast is as follows:—</p> - -<p>Take as many pieces of dry bread as required and fry quickly in a -little good dripping to a crisp brown. It should then remain quite -crisp even when the gravy is turned over it.</p> - - -<h4><i>24. Bacon Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>About half a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, two and a half -breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour and a pinch of salt, must be -mixed with tepid water into a nice elastic paste. Cut half a pound of -bacon (fat and lean together) into narrow long strips, slice thinly one -fair-sized Spanish onion into rings, and chop about eight leaves of -sage very fine. Roll the paste in small pieces to form layers in the -basin which must be greased by putting in a good-sized piece of butter -and allowing it to stand on the top of the stove until the butter has -melted and every part of the basin has had the hot butter run over it. -This will prevent the pudding adhering to the basin. Put one layer of -paste in the basin, then a layer of bacon and onion and just a little -sage sprinkled over the top, then another layer of paste, and so on -till all the bacon and onion are used up. Then put on the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span>top layer of -paste which must quite fill the basin, and tie the pudding securely in -a freshly wetted pudding cloth. Care must be taken that the cloth is -not drawn too tight over the pudding and that the basin is full or the -water will get in and spoil the dish. The pudding must be immersed in -boiling water and boiled for three hours. At the end of that time turn -it out on a hot dish and serve with a little clear melted butter in a -sauce boat.</p> - - -<h4><i>25. Veal or Beef Olives</i></h4> - -<p>It is often found inconvenient to cook a joint in a hurry (or the joint -may be found to be too large) when the following recipe will be found -useful. Cut a slice of about an inch thick off the round of beef or -fillet of veal, cut that into five or six pieces and flatten well with -a knife. Chop finely about half a Spanish onion, a few sweet herbs, and -pepper and salt, and put a little of these on each piece of meat and -cover with half a rasher of bacon. Tie each piece securely with string. -Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a frying pan over a clear fire and -when ready lay the olives in it. Fry briskly for three minutes, turn -over once and fry for the same length of time, then cover with another -frying pan, inverted, and fry for another ten to fifteen minutes. -Place the meat on a dish and remove the strings gently,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> cutting with -scissors. Put into the frying pan about half a teacupful of good meat -juice, a tablespoonful of white wine, a little salt, thicken with a -little flour and pour over the olives. They will keep their shape and -should be served with some nicely prepared vegetables, either beans, -peas, or potatoes.</p> - - -<h4><i>26. Pigeons with Carrots</i></h4> - -<p>Split the roasted pigeons in halves and lay cut side down in a stone -saucepan with half a claret glass of white wine, pepper and salt, -with four carrots cut lengthwise, each into eight pieces then cut -across. Add a little good meat juice. Put enough water to just cover -the pigeons. Stew gently for three-quarters of an hour. Thicken with a -little flour and water and serve in the stone saucepan, or in a deep -dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>27. Ragoût of Veal</i></h4> - -<p>Cut into small pieces two pounds of neck of veal. Put into a saucepan -and cover with cold water, and a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, -one piece of loaf sugar, six spring onions, bottoms and green tops, six -small carrots split in two, and one small turnip. Stew gently for one -and a half to two hours, adding a little water if required. Half an -hour before serving add a half pint of fresh green<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> peas, a pinch of -mixed herbs, half a glass of white wine. Thicken with a little smoothly -mixed flour and water, stirred into the veal. Best served in the -earthenware saucepan, with a napkin tied round it. If green peas are -not available a little Patna rice may be used after it has been washed -through several waters; or a few cut scarlet runners. Cold veal may be -treated as above but in that case a little good meat juice must be used -instead of the extra half pint of water.</p> - - -<h4><i>28. Rump Steak and Kidney Pie with Mushrooms or Truffles</i></h4> - -<p>For a pie for four persons take a pound and a half of rump steak and -half an ox kidney. Cut into nice pieces with a little fat but no -gristle. Put it all in a deep pie-dish, with pepper and salt and the -contents of a small bottle of truffles cut in small pieces (or eight -mushrooms). Flour rather thickly over the top and add a little water to -the side of the dish so that it runs underneath the meat (and half a -teaspoonful of mushroom catsup if with mushrooms), cover with another -smaller pie-dish which should allow a small opening at the sides so as -to let the steam escape. Cook for three-quarters of an hour in a brisk -oven and meantime rub a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or lard, -into two and a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span>half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour with a -little salt, and mix with a little milk to an elastic paste. When ready -take the dish out of the oven and stir the meat and the flour together. -The pie will then be ready for the crust. Butter the rim of the dish -while still hot. Lay a strip of paste all round and moisten with a -little milk to make the top crust adhere. Bake in a quick oven for -half an hour. It is important that the meat should be cooked first as -otherwise it will either be underdone or the crust will be overcooked. -Do not forget to make a hole in the middle of the top crust before -baking.</p> - - -<h4><i>29. Kidney Sauté</i></h4> - -<p>Remove the fatty centre of an ox kidney, cut the kidney into thin -slices and dice it on a pastry board on which has been poured a good -handful of flour. Rub the diced kidney well into the flour so that it -looks all white. Put it into a stone saucepan, add pepper and salt, a -little scraped carrot, one good-sized onion stuck with three cloves, -and cover with cold water. Stir the kidney so as to remove all the -flour into the water, which should look like milk. Cook in a quick oven -for two hours. This might be cooked in the morning and made warm in the -evening. Remove onion before serving.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>30. Kidney Sauté—Another Way</i></h4> - -<p>Take one or two sheep’s kidneys, skin and split them. Lay each half, -flat side down, in a frying pan with an ounce of butter or dripping, -heated. Place on a quick fire, add one or two slices of onion cut thin, -pepper and salt. Remove from the fire and cut the kidneys up. Place -again on the stove, add a teaspoonful of bovril, a little Worcester -sauce (one teaspoonful), mix smoothly a dessertspoonful of flour with -water, add half a breakfast-cup of hot water to the kidneys. Stir and -keep boiling twenty minutes, and serve hot, either alone or within a -wall of freshly mashed potatoes.</p> - - -<h4><i>31. Kidneys in Onions</i></h4> - -<p>To those who are fond of an onion there is hardly a more appetising -dish than onions prepared in the following manner. Take four or five -decent-sized sound onions. Small Spanish are the best. Cut rather a -deep slice off the top after removing the outer skin. You can then take -the centre out; say you remove half the onion leaving about four of -the thicknesses. Have ready two or three sheep’s kidneys prepared in -the following manner: Skin each kidney and split it. Sprinkle lightly -pepper and salt on the split side. Put into a frying pan <span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span>a little -dripping or butter, lay the kidney flat side first in the boiling -fat, place the pan on a quick fire and fry lightly, turning twice. As -onion requires a lot of cooking it is best to put the prepared onion -cases into boiling dripping and cook in a quick oven twenty-five -minutes. Then place the kidney (half in each onion) and replace in the -oven in the baking tin another ten minutes. Care should be taken not -to overcook the kidney so that the gravy runs into the onion as it -finishes cooking. Serve very hot in a stone dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>32. Jugged Hare</i></h4> - -<p>Cut the hare up. Rub the pieces in flour. Put one and a half ounces -of butter into a large enamelled frying pan, and lightly fry the hare -for ten minutes. Then place your hare in a stone jar with one Spanish -onion stuck with three cloves, some salt, a piece of loaf sugar, and a -little finely scraped carrot. Add two glasses of port wine and a little -Worcester sauce. Cover the jar with a plate and stand in a quick oven -for three hours. Dish into a flat dish, garnish all round with half -slices of lemon and serve with currant jelly.</p> - - -<h4><i>33. Yorkshire Pudding for Baked Beef or Mutton</i></h4> - -<p>Separate the white of one egg from the yolk. Put the latter in an -earthenware bowl and stir it lightly.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> Beat the white separately with a -freshly cleaned knife in a plate. It is most important that a perfectly -clean knife be used or the white of the egg will not rise. Beat it to a -stiff froth and stir it into the yolk of the egg; and only afterwards -add half a teacupful of milk and a little pepper and salt.</p> - -<p>Stir in a breakfast-cupful of self-raising flour vigorously and work -it perfectly smooth. If it is not then quite the consistency of very -thick cream add a little milk to make it so. Turn into a baking tin and -bake under the meat, which would be already three parts cooked then. -Do not forget to turn most of the fat out of the baking tin before the -pudding is poured in. Three-quarters of an hour is the time required -for cooking a Yorkshire pudding.</p> - - -<h4><i>34. Welsh Rarebit</i></h4> - -<p>Take half a pound of good Cheddar cheese, not too strong, and cut it -into a flat meat dish with pepper and salt. Pour over a sufficient -quantity of bottled ale to fill the dish. Stand in a quick oven and -bake until the cheese is all melted. Have ready some buttered toast -about a quarter of an inch thick. Remove the cheese from the dish -leaving the beer and spread the cheese lightly on the toast. Replace in -the oven, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span>and serve very hot. The object of the beer is to flavour the -cheese only and if the cheese were to be cooked in a frying pan over -the fire it would absorb all the beer and be rendered very bitter.</p> - - -<h4><i>35. Spaghetti</i></h4> - -<p>Put half a pound of spaghetti into boiling water with a good pinch of -salt. If you carefully put the spaghetti upright in the saucepan and -give them a twist they won’t break. Boil gently, being careful to add -boiling water as needed to keep the same amount. It is important never -to add cold water as that chills the spaghetti and causes it to become -tough. Cook for one hour and meantime prepare the following sauce:</p> - -<p>Put six good-sized tomatoes cut in quarters into a saucepan (or a -pudding basin may be used in the oven), with one large round of Spanish -onion chopped fine, three pieces of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt and -pepper, half a bottle of tomato catsup, and an ounce of fresh butter. -Stew gently on the side of the stove for three-quarters of an hour. -Strain all the water off the spaghetti with the lid, into a salad bowl -(or good-sized dish), stir in the tomato sauce which has been strained -thoroughly, and serve very hot with some grated cheese in another dish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>36. Risotto</i></h4> - -<p>Remove all the fat from a pint of good clear beef or mutton stock and -put it on the stove to boil. Wash a teacupful of Patna rice through -four waters and put it into the boiling stock and cook for half an -hour gently. Chop two thin rashers of bacon into small pieces, add -half an onion chopped very finely and put this into the stock while -it is boiling. Care should be taken, if the stock is already salted, -that very little salt is added. Drain the rice dry and have ready a -teacupful of Parmesan and Gruyère cheese (grated) and some good tomato -sauce made with skinned tomatoes. Stir the cheese and tomato sauce into -the rice in the saucepan and have ready some stone or metal moulds -rinsed in cold water but not wiped. Put some of the mixture into each -mould and place in a cold place for about two hours. Then put the -moulds into the oven with a dish over the top and serve when hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>37. Cauliflower au Gratin</i></h4> - -<p>Remove all the stump of a young cauliflower and boil for fifteen -minutes in a large saucepan with a pinch of salt and a small pinch -of soda. When cooked, turn it into a cullender and break it into -small pieces (not too small) on a flat pie-dish. Take one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span> and a half -tablespoonfuls of butter. Have ready half a pint of milk boiling. -Turn the boiling milk into the paste and stir well till quite smooth. -Put it back in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir four good -tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese into the sauce and turn it over -the cauliflower in the dish. Dust a little more cheese over it and -stand the dish in a quick oven for ten minutes to brown. The browning -can also be done with a Salamander.</p> - - -<h4><i>38. Macaroni au Gratin</i></h4> - -<p>Have ready three pints of freshly boiling water with a good pinch of -salt in a saucepan for about half a pound of straight macaroni which -must be broken up to a convenient size. Macaroni should always be put -straight into boiling water. Boil gently for forty minutes to an hour -but be careful not to let it boil over, adding boiling water from time -to time as the macaroni swells. Strain the water off with the lid, and -stir into the saucepan a breakfast-cupful of grated Gruyère cheese -(a little grated Parmesan cheese is a great improvement added to the -Gruyère). Turn into a stone dish. Dust a little more cheese over the -top, put a piece of butter about the size of two good-sized walnuts and -place in a quick oven to brown slightly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>39. Marrow Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Take some good marrow bones and tie the ends in freshly scalded muslin -after previously salting slightly the end where the marrow is. Put them -into a large saucepan of boiling water with a cut onion. Boil for one -hour and then take the bones out. Remove the muslin and take the marrow -out on to a plate and season with a little pepper and salt and spread -on hot buttered toast. Replace in oven for a few minutes and serve very -hot. This makes a good savoury dish.</p> - - -<h4 id="r40"><i>40. Sage and Onion Stuffing</i></h4> - -<p class="center p0">(<i>For goose, fowl, beef, veal, or breast of mutton</i>)</p> - -<p>Put into an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter -ready for melting. (Salt butter always leaves a deposit in the pan -which causes the things to burn.) Take five large Spanish onions, cut -carefully on a board into thin slices, and put into the hot butter. -Place on the fire with the stove top on and boil for half an hour -without allowing them to brown. Take the soft part of one loaf, rub it -fine on a grater, chop ten or twelve large leaves of sage, mix with the -breadcrumbs, pour the onion hot into the centre, mix thoroughly and -stuff.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span></p> - -<p>This stuffing will be found not to smell in the cooking, or to be -unpleasant after eating.</p> - - -<h4 id="r41"><i>41. Truffled Stuffing for Fowls</i></h4> - -<p>For two fowls take the soft part of half a loaf of bread, eight small -sprigs of parsley (not the stalk), the yolk of one egg, the livers of -the fowls, one rasher of bacon not too fat, pepper and salt, one round -of Spanish onion, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and one -small bottle of truffles. Rub the bread very fine on a cheese-grater -and chop onion and parsley very small. Fry the liver, bacon, and onion -very lightly, chop them very small and turn on to the board to mix -thoroughly with crumbs. Add the chopped truffles and a piece of butter, -break the yolk of the egg into it and stir the mixture well when the -stuffing will be ready to put into the fowl.</p> - - -<h4><i>42. Sauce Piquante for Leg of Mutton Cutlets</i></h4> - -<p>After dishing the cutlets (rec: <a href="#r86">86</a>) turn the butter out of the pan and -put a little water into it as meat juice adheres to the pan. Into this -put a slice of Spanish onion chopped very fine, half a claret glass of -white wine, the juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper, half -a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Thicken with half a teaspoonful of -carefully mixed flour and water. Place the pan over the fire and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span>bring -the mixture to boiling point, no more. Take it off and strain through a -gravy strainer over the meat and serve at once.</p> - - -<h4><i>43. Horseradish Cream</i></h4> - -<p>Have a nice fresh horseradish rubbed finely on a coarse cheese-grater -having sufficient radish when grated for three large tablespoonfuls. -Place it in a basin and add half a large teacupful of thick cream. Stir -well and add three good teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little salt, -and one and a half tablespoonfuls of good malt vinegar. Serve with cold -roast or boiled beef in a sauce boat. Never add anything to the radish -till the cream has been well stirred in and always add the vinegar last.</p> - - -<h4><i>44. Mustard Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>This sauce has the great advantage that it does not require any cooking -and can be produced within a few moments if desired.</p> - -<p>Two yolks of eggs carefully separated from the whites and placed in a -stone basin, and two teaspoonfuls of dry mustard stirred together till -perfectly smooth with two large tablespoonfuls of best salad oil and -two tablespoonfuls of best malt vinegar and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle -on it a little finely chopped parsley the last thing.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>45. Sauce Piquante</i></h4> - -<p>Two or three thin slices of Spanish onion fried lightly in a little -good beef dripping. Two large tablespoonfuls of bovril added to the -onion which must be allowed to adhere lightly to the pan. Half a teacup -of hot water and a tablespoonful of best malt vinegar. Let the whole -come to a boil and thicken slightly with a little carefully mixed flour -and water. Strain and serve in a sauce boat.</p> - - -<h4><i>46. Egg and Lemon Sauce for Fish or Calf’s Head</i></h4> - -<p>Melt in an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of fresh butter, add -quickly the yolks of two eggs and half a teacup of fresh cream. The -object of adding the cream with the yolks of the eggs is to prevent -the egg from becoming solid. Stir well together with a little salt the -juice of one lemon and a little milk. This sauce should be thick enough -without any added thickening.</p> - - -<h4><i>47. Apple Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Put six apples cut very small into a stone saucepan with a little cold -water. Add a teacupful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter. -Stew gently for one hour. Strain off some of the juice with the lid<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> of -the saucepan and beat the apples with a fork until reduced to a paste.</p> - - -<h4><i>48. Tomato Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Put the tomatoes into a deep basin or jug and scald with boiling water. -They can then be peeled easily, the skin coming off like a glove from -the hand. Place in a rather deep frying pan with half an ounce of -butter and a piece of loaf sugar, pepper and salt. Mash with knife till -fairly smooth and serve, after steaming, with cutlets, veal, or mutton.</p> - - -<h4><i>49. Sauce Ravigotte</i></h4> - -<p class="center p0">(<i>For cold meat or boiled calves’ feet, cold</i>)</p> - -<p>Chop together very small the yolk and white of one hard-boiled egg, add -the yolk of one raw one, six spring onions, a little parsley, pepper -and salt. Mix with one tablespoonful of vinegar and two of best salad -oil.</p> - - -<h4><i>50. Bread Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Peel and cut into quarters one onion and let it simmer in a pint of -milk till perfectly tender. Break one-fourth pound stale bread into -small pieces or grate it into crumbs, put it into a clean saucepan and -strain the milk from the onion over it; cover it with the lid <span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span>and let -it remain an hour to soak. Beat it briskly with a fork, add a little -salt, a small pinch of cayenne pepper and either a little cream or a -piece of butter the size of a walnut.</p> - - -<h4><i>51. Brandy Sauce for Christmas Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Bring to a boil half a pint of milk, mix in a large basin one -tablespoonful of cornflour with a little cold milk, to a very stiff -paste, pour into it the boiling milk, stirring one way all the time, -add two large tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, two wineglasses of -brandy and serve in a sauce boat, very hot. <i>Note</i>: If the -cornflour is mixed very stiff and the milk is poured in while boiling, -the sauce will thicken and there will be no need to return it to the -saucepan to boil again.</p> - - -<h4><i>52. Curries</i></h4> - - -<p><i>Rice.</i> The cooking of rice is the principal part in preparing a -dish of curry.</p> - -<p>The rice must be snowy white in appearance and so dry when cooked that -each grain is perfectly detached.</p> - -<p>Wash your rice in ten waters so as to get rid of all floury dust. Have -a saucepan ready with boiling water (in the proportion of three pints -to a quarter of a pound of rice) with a good pinch of salt. Pour <span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span>the -rice into the saucepan and boil fast with the lid partly off (so that -it does not boil over) for twelve minutes. Drain off nearly all the -water, then shutting the lid tight, put the saucepan at the side of the -stove for the rice to finish cooking in its own steam. At the end of -twenty minutes the rice will be cooked and dry. Care must be taken not -to let it burn.</p> - - -<p><i>Curried Eggs.</i> Fry lightly together one large Spanish onion cut -into rings and one or two tomatoes cut in four for about ten minutes -without allowing the onion to brown. Add a little good beef stock and -go on cooking in the frying pan for another twenty minutes, add then a -tablespoonful or more of curry powder and stir in the sauce. Four to -six hard-boiled eggs each cut into four are to be laid in the centre -of the frying pan and sauce turned over them with a spoon, after being -thickened with a little flour and water mixed smoothly. At the end of -five minutes lay the eggs down the centre of a dish and pour the curry -over them.</p> - -<p>For meats or chicken, which would be already cooked, or for prawn -curries, proceed as above but take care to put meat or prawns in the -pan ten minutes after the stock has been added, and boil for ten -minutes before adding the curry and five minutes more afterwards.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>53. Mayonnaise</i></h4> -<p class="center p0"><i>For Salmon, Lobster, and Cold Fowl</i></p> - - -<p><i>Salmon.</i> Cover with cold water in an earthenware saucepan two -pounds of salmon cutlets. A strainer should be laid at the bottom of -the saucepan. Add a little salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Cook for -thirty minutes. Dish on a flat dish and place on ice. Arrange on a bed -of sliced cucumber and lettuce and pour the mayonnaise over.</p> - -<p>To make the mayonnaise put the yolks of two eggs in a pastry bowl, and, -while stirring with a spoon, keep adding drop by drop the best Lucca -salad oil to the amount of a teacupful. When all the oil is used, stir -in a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. It is imperative that nothing -should be added to the yolks before the oil, or the mayonnaise will -not rise. For the same reason you must stir always the same way. To -make a larger quantity add half a teacupful of oil for each yolk, and a -quarter of a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. If possible a mayonnaise -should not be made more than half an hour before it is required.</p> - - -<p><i>Fowl.</i> The chicken should be carved and laid on a bed of mixed -salad with a few slices of beet-root round the outside of the dish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span></p> - - -<p><i>Lobster.</i> The lobster should be taken out of the shell and laid -on a bed of lettuce.</p> - - -<h4><i>54. Salmon and Cucumber Sandwiches</i></h4> - -<p>Pound some fresh salmon in a mortar with a drain of anchovy sauce. -Spread it lightly on some thin bread and butter. Add a couple of thin -slices of cucumber and a little salt. Salmon and shrimp paste can be -used if preferred.</p> - - -<h4><i>55. Prawn Sandwiches</i></h4> - -<p>Cut thin some bread and butter. Cut the prawns very fine and lay them -on the buttered bread with a little mustard and cress, pepper and salt.</p> - - -<h4><i>56. Sardine Sandwiches</i></h4> - -<p>Scrape the sardines and remove the bones. Take eight slices of toast -about an inch thick, trim round the edges, and split with a knife. -Butter lightly while hot and lay the sardines between the split toast -not too thickly. Add a little red or white pepper if preferred and then -close the toast which should be then cut into two and served hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>57. Sardines on Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Take the sardines out of the box and scrape off the scales, split them -and remove the backbone. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span>Lay two sardines (four halves) on each slice -of buttered toast, sprinkle with a little red pepper and place in the -oven. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>58. Beef and Tomato Sandwiches</i></h4> - -<p>Take a sandwich loaf and cut the crust off on three sides. Pass the -knife down between the back crust and the crumb and slice the bread -against it. Butter each slice of bread and lay a thin slice of beef on -it, then a thin slice of tomato. Lay the other bread and butter on the -top with a pinch of pepper and salt.</p> - - -<h4><i>59. Caviare Savoury</i></h4> - -<p>Take some slices of buttered toast, spread lightly with caviare and put -into the oven for a few seconds before serving.</p> - - -<h4><i>60. Hard-Boiled Eggs for Garniture of Sandwiches</i></h4> - -<p>Have the water boiling, put the eggs into it and boil for fifteen -minutes quickly. Remove with a spoon and plunge them into cold water; -if the eggs are fresh this should avoid the green line which usually -forms round the white.</p> - - -<h4><i>61. Hors d’œuvres</i></h4> - -<p>Hors d’œuvres make a nice beginning to a meal, do not give much trouble -to prepare, and dress the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span>table laid out for lunch in an interesting -manner. My practice was to use four to six glass dishes.</p> - - -<p><i>Sardines.</i> Remove carefully from the tin and lay on the dish with -their tails in the middle of the dish and the head part of the fish -towards the outer edge of the dish.</p> - - -<p><i>Anchovies.</i> The French ones bottled in oil are the most -profitable and will keep quite a long time if carefully corked and the -oil covers the fish. Unroll them and split them lengthwise, laying them -four or five lengths one way of the dish and four or five the other, -leaving little squares of the dish visible. Fill each of these with the -chopped up white of an egg boiled hard.</p> - -<p>A caviare hors d’œuvre should be served in the pot, packed in crushed -ice and plain toast provided on the table for it.</p> - - -<p><i>Stuffed Eggs.</i> Have three or four eggs boiled hard. Place them -in a basin of cold water. Remove the shells as soon as they are cool -enough to hold in the fingers. Rinse in the water and cut each egg -across the middle, and cut a thin slice from each rounded end of the -egg to enable it to stand in an upright position. Remove the yolks into -a plate and mash <span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span>them with a dinner fork, adding two teaspoonfuls of -anchovy sauce (bottled), one tablespoonful of cream, half a teaspoonful -of dry mustard. Work all together with the fork, and when perfectly -mixed, fill in the whites with the mixture. Cut a French olive into -strips lengthwise round the stone and place one piece across the top of -each egg to resemble a handle.</p> - - -<p><i>Eggs with a Mayonnaise Sauce.</i> Cut lengthwise four hard-boiled -eggs after removing the shells as directed and lay them white side up -on the dish, which must be rather deep. Make a little mayonnaise sauce -(proportion of one yolk of an egg to half a teacup of salad oil stirred -into it drop by drop and half a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar), pour -the sauce over the eggs.</p> - - -<p><i>Beet-root.</i> Boiled whole and cut into thin rings, pour over it -a little vinegar and dust a little powdered sugar on it and a little -finely chopped onion.</p> - - -<p><i>Tomatoes.</i> Skinned and prepared as directed for tomato salad.</p> - - -<p><i>Celery.</i> Cut or rather curled as you would peel rhubarb and -dressed either with oil and vinegar or with a little mayonnaise sauce -to which has been added half a teaspoonful of dry mustard.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span></p> - -<p>Then there are olives, stuffed or otherwise, tunny fish or smoked -salmon which can be bought in small tins and do not require any -dressing. Simply serve on the dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>62. Chocolate</i></h4> - -<p>Place a quarter of a pound of Chocolate Menier in a stone saucepan for -ten minutes covered with cold water. Let it stand on the side of the -stove. Work it into a smooth paste and add water or milk to make it a -pint. No sugar. Place it over the fire and bring it to a boil. Do this -six times, lifting it from the fire each time it boils.</p> - - -<h4><i>63. Coffee for Four Persons</i></h4> - -<p>Put into an earthenware saucepan a teacupful of roasted coffee freshly -ground, and pour over one pint and a half of boiling water. Bring to a -boil twice. Tip a tablespoonful of cold water into the boiling coffee. -Let it stand for five minutes and strain through a strainer into a -warmed coffee pot.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="SOUPS_STOCKS">SOUPS, STOCKS</h3> -</div> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<p>If the vegetables are used for flavouring only, they may remain in -the soup all the time it is cooking. If, on the other hand, they are -intended to be dished in the soup they should be put in only in time to -be cooked thoroughly.</p> - -<p>Every kitchen should contain in a cupboard always a bottle of cooking -sherry, a bottle of mushroom catsup, one of Worcester sauce, one of -tomato (bottled) sauce, some fresh lemons, vinegar, the best salad oil, -a packet of sweet herbs, bovril, nutmeg, cloves, and spice.</p> - -<p>The object in adding sugar is to clear the soup or stock and will be -found as effective as eggshells.</p> - -<p>In preserving stocks for soups, gravies, etc., care should be taken -never to allow the receptacle containing it to be covered—after it is -strained—except with a perforated meat cover.</p> - -<p>Stock cannot be kept for more than two days without being reboiled. -Never neglect to dash cold water into it while still boiling or the -object of settling the solid particles and raising the fat will not be -attained.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>64. Beef Tea</i></h4> - -<p>Take one pound of leg of beef not fat. One pound makes about a pint of -good beef tea. Cut the meat several times across, taking care not to -cut it through. Sprinkle with a half teaspoonful of salt, put into a -stone jar or saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, add one and a half -pints of cold water and place in a steady oven to cook for two hours. -Always put it into the oven as soon as it is prepared as the salt -otherwise would draw the juice out of the meat. Directly it is cooked, -dash about one tablespoonful of cold water into it. Place in a cold -place for the fat to rise, remove with a sheet of white paper the fat -which will have risen to the top and make hot as required.</p> - - -<h4><i>65. Mutton Broth</i></h4> - -<p>This can apply to either the short ends of cutlet bones, the shank -end of a leg of mutton, or the scrag end of the neck. Remove the fat -and place, with an onion (not cut), into a saucepan a turnip cut into -small pieces, a pinch of salt, one piece of loaf sugar, and if no fresh -parsley is obtainable a pinch of mixed sweet herbs that have been -rinsed in cold water. (If herbs are used they must be added as soon as -the broth boils; if fresh parsley it should never be added till it is -within ten minutes of being ready to serve.) More <span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span>salt may be added -to taste. Bring to a boil quickly and then put a quarter teacupful of -washed pearl barley into it and boil gently for three and a half hours. -Strain and serve.</p> - -<p>It will be noticed that some of the soup will boil away and a little -hot water will have to be added. This broth can be made with the -remains of cold potatoes added instead of the barley, in which case it -requires to be stirred through a cullender so as to avoid any pieces of -potato remaining whole.</p> - - -<h4><i>66. Chicken Broth</i></h4> - -<p>Take the remains of any cold chicken, giblets, feet, and put into an -earthenware saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt, -one small onion (whole), cover with cold water. Keep boiling gently -for three hours adding from time to time a little water to keep the -saucepan about half full. Strain through a cullender and put in the -larder to get cool, after adding a little cold water to make the fat -rise to the top.</p> - - -<h4><i>67. Lentil or Split-Pea Soup</i></h4> - -<p>If for pea soup, take the bone of a ham, or the small bones of a piece -of pickled pork and add about a quart of cold water and one onion. -Have ready two large teacupfuls of split peas (that have soaked for -two hours). Boil steadily for three or four hours,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> stirring from time -to time to prevent burning. Strain through a cullender and serve with -fried bread, very hot. Proceed in the same way for lentil soup, only in -that case the bones of either beef or veal may be used instead of pork.</p> - - -<h4><i>68. White Bean Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Have ready one pint of white beans boiled soft in water with a piece of -common soda the size of a pea. Put them into a saucepan with remains of -cold meat—beef, mutton, or veal—one uncut onion, one turnip, pepper -and salt to taste, and if not objected to, a few cold potatoes. Boil -gently about three hours, then pass the whole through a fine cullender -to strain the skins from the beans. Replace in a saucepan and bring -to a boil; then serve very hot. Have ready some slices of stale bread -about half an inch thick cut into dice. Have a little beef (or veal) -dripping, bring to a boil in an enamel frying pan and drop the bread in -while it boils, fry till a light brown and quite crisp. Serve in a hot -dish with a strainer under. This bread is good for either pea, lentil, -haricot, or potato soup.</p> - - -<h4><i>69. Chicken Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Take the remains of any cold roast or boiled fowls, salt and pepper to -taste; a whole onion, half a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> rasher of very lean bacon, one piece of -loaf sugar, one quart of water. Put all together into a saucepan and -bring to a boil, keeping the meat or bones covered. Boil two hours. -Take one and a half flat tablespoonfuls of flour, one ounce of fresh -butter, and put the butter and flour into a smooth china or earthenware -bowl (enamel bowl will do), work the two together with a tablespoon -till a perfectly smooth paste is made, then pour the soup through a -cullender on to the paste, stirring all the time; add a little milk and -if possible a little fresh cream. Replace the soup in the saucepan, put -it back on the stove and stir one way till it boils, when it is ready -to serve.</p> - - -<h4><i>70. Game Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Take a rabbit and wash it in a little water with a pinch of salt, then -cut it up. Put it into a stone saucepan with one quart to three pints -cold water, salt and pepper to taste, one piece of loaf sugar, one -onion whole (or three or four spring onions), one carrot, about half -a pound of gravy beef, and the remains of any cold game. Boil gently -for three hours, strain, and place in the saucepan again, bring to a -boil, thicken with flour and butter mixed as for chicken soup, bring -to a boil while stirring. Strain and serve. If not dark enough add -teaspoonful of bovril.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>71. Asparagus Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Take the remains of cold veal, the bottom ends of asparagus, one onion, -salt and pepper, one piece of loaf sugar, and two pints of cold water. -Let it boil gently for three hours. Have ready, well mixed into a -smooth paste, two tablespoonfuls of flour with one and a half ounces -of fresh butter. Strain the soup, while still boiling, through a -strainer on to the paste, stir gently till perfectly smooth, add half -a teacupful of cream and a little milk. Care should be taken that the -soup is not too thick or thin. Replace in the saucepan and stir gently -over a clear fire till it boils. It is then ready to serve and should -be perfectly smooth.</p> - - -<h4><i>72. Tomato Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Take the remains of cold chicken, beef, or veal; add two pounds of -fresh tomatoes cut into slices, one onion, pepper and salt, five pieces -of sugar. Put all into a stone saucepan and boil gently two hours (in -about a quart of water); have ready the same mixture of butter and -flour as for asparagus soup, strain the tomato soup on to it, add the -half teacupful of cream and a little milk, put back into the saucepan -and stir till it boils. This should be about a quart of soup.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span></p> - -<p>It will be noticed that most of these recipes are made with the remains -of cold meat instead of buying especially to make the soup, and in this -way most things can be used up without any waste.</p> - - -<h4><i>73. Clear Ox Tail Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Soak a fresh ox tail in cold water for two hours. Then cut at each -joint, remove all the fat, and lay in three pints of cold water in -a saucepan with a pinch of salt, two pieces of loaf sugar, and a -teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Boil for three hours, then add one -sliced carrot and a finely cut onion; boil for another half hour. The -soup is then ready to be served with the meat in it.</p> - - -<h4><i>74. Thick Ox Tail Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Proceed in the same manner as for the clear soup, adding a good -teacupful of strong beef stock. Put in whole an onion and a carrot with -a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Boil for three hours, then dash in a -cupful of cold water and remove from the fire to stand in a cool place. -Carefully remove all the fat and the vegetables. Bring the soup to a -boil again and add a carrot cut into oblong pieces, boil for another -half hour, thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water, and -serve with the meat in it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>75. Julienne Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Take one pound of lean gravy beef not cut up, put it into a saucepan -with one piece of loaf sugar, an onion (whole), a little pepper and -salt, and three pints of water. Boil for two hours. Dash a teacupful -of cold water in to cause the fat to rise. Allow it to cool, skim the -fat, and strain the soup into another saucepan. Put in one carrot, cut -into slices and then into tiny strips, half a turnip, in strips, and -a few green peas. These last may be from a bottle if it is impossible -to obtain the fresh. Boil for half an hour and serve the soup with -the vegetables in it. This soup will turn out perfectly clear if the -directions are carefully followed.</p> - - -<h4><i>76. To Use Roast Beef Bone for Soup</i></h4> - -<p>Remove all the fat; put the bone in a saucepan with about a quart of -water, a piece of loaf sugar (to clear it), salt, pepper, one carrot -cut into narrow strips, one onion sliced, and a little cut cabbage. -Boil steadily for an hour and a half. Remove the bone and then serve -the soup with the vegetables in it.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="BEEF">BEEF</h3> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>Roasting. Boiling</i></p> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Sirloin -</td> -<td class="center"> -7 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -1½ to 2 hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Fillet -</td> -<td class="center"> -say 4 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -1 hour. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Round -</td> -<td class="center"> -4 to 5 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr">1¼ hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Rolled Ribs -</td> -<td class="center"> -7 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr">2¼ to 2½ hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Aitchbone -</td> -<td class="center"> -7 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -2½ to 3 hours. -</td> -</tr> -</table> - -<p>The first and the two last joints should be bought large, not under -seven pounds, on account of the bone they contain.</p> - -<p>In roasting or rather in baking, as is the general practice of small -households (either in gas stove or coal), attention should be paid -that the oven is not too fierce as it reduces the joint greatly and of -course spoils the taste and appearance.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, an oven not sufficiently hot spoils the meat by -making it hard.</p> - -<p>The proper degree of heat is best learned by experience but as a guide -it may be said that a joint should begin to splutter and sizzle within -fifteen minutes after the oven door is shut.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span></p> - -<p>If the meat does not appear to be cooking satisfactorily at the end of -fifteen minutes the baking tin should be stood on the stove over the -fire (top off) after putting a little beef dripping into the tin.</p> - -<p>While on the fire turn the joint over several times with the fork. At -the end of ten to fifteen minutes the meat may be put back into the -oven.</p> - -<p>The dripping should be preserved as follows:—</p> - -<p>After the meat is cooked, place the joint on the dish. Turn the fat out -of the baking tin into a basin and dash into it at once a tablespoonful -of cold water. This will separate the meat juice from the fat.</p> - -<p>In this way you obtain perfectly clear fat and the meat juice under -it will be found useful for colouring sauces or improving soups. This -applies to all roast meat—beef, veal, and mutton—providing the joint -is not stuffed.</p> - -<p>As to obtaining gravy for the joint itself, proceed as follows:—</p> - -<p>After pouring off the fat into the basin as directed, put half a -teacupful of cold water into the baking tin and let it stand on top of -the fire till it boils, which will happen almost at once. Turn over the -joint in the dish.</p> - -<p>Should the gravy appear not dark enough, the meat juice separated as -above from the fat of other joints may be added.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span></p> - -<p><i>N.B.</i> Never flour the joint before putting it in the oven. The -practice has nothing to recommend it and it would make it impossible to -obtain dripping or preserve the very useful meat juice.</p> - - -<h4><i>77. Salt Beef and Carrots</i></h4> - -<p>Soak over night in cold water a piece of salt beef, say about four -pounds. Put it into a saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Time -for cooking: one and a half hours. When the meat has been boiling for -half an hour add four carrots cut in four lengthwise. Make about six -suet dumplings in the same way as suet crust for pudding and put in the -saucepan twenty minutes before the meat is ready. Care must be taken -that no salt is added to anything. Serve with the dumplings and carrots -round the dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>78. Stuffed Steak with Thick Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Take two pounds of rump steak, free it from sinews; make about four -large cuts in it without cutting it right through, with a sharp knife. -Lay the stuffing (sage and onion according to rec: <a href="#r40">40</a>) on the steak, -cover with a piece of flare, or if not available a piece of buttered -paper tied round with string, and bake for one hour. Lay the meat on a -dish and remove the string and paper. Put a pinch of pepper and salt -into the baking tin and about a teacupful of water. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span>Place over the top -of the stove until it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful and a half of -carefully mixed flour, bring it to the boil again and carefully strain -it through a gravy strainer over the meat. Serve with baked or boiled -potatoes.</p> - - -<h4><i>79. Rump Steak with Kidney and Mushroom Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Melt over a clear fire an ounce of butter in an enamelled frying pan, -then put in one and a half pounds of rump steak to fry briskly for -five minutes, turning over once. Put the stove top on then and cook -the steak for fifteen to twenty minutes more. Prepare half an ox -kidney cut into dice, half a Spanish onion chopped very fine, and six -or seven mushrooms (which have been previously placed in salted water -for a short time to remove all grit). After dishing the steak put the -kidney in the pan first, then the onion, then the mushrooms and fry -very briskly but lightly for ten to fifteen minutes. Then add half a -teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, six tablespoonfuls of water, and half a -tablespoonful of flour mixed very smooth and thin with a little water. -Bring to a boil and turn over the steak before serving.</p> - - -<h4><i>80. Stewed Steak</i></h4> - -<p>Cut into pieces about a finger’s length one and a half pounds of rump -steak. Have ready in an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> enamelled frying pan about an ounce of fresh -butter made hot, or dripping. Lay the steak in this and fry briskly -on a clear fire for ten minutes. Remove the meat and put it into an -earthenware saucepan with a slice. Fry in the same butter or dripping -one large Spanish onion. Cut two large or six small carrots into -pieces; add this and the onion to the steak with a piece of loaf sugar, -pepper and salt, and half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce or mushroom -catsup. Cover with cold water and stew gently for two hours. Thicken -with a little carefully mixed flour and water. Best served in the -earthenware saucepan wrapped in a napkin.</p> - - -<h4><i>81. Marinaded Beef</i></h4> - -<p>This recipe will be useful when the question arises of keeping a -joint over a Sunday. Get your butcher to cut you about four pounds of -undercut of beef. Make the marinade as follows: For a pint of best -malt vinegar one whole onion, one carrot (onion and carrot to be left -whole), one-fourth pint of cold water, two bay leaves, six or seven -peppercorns, salt and pepper to taste; put into an enamel saucepan and -bring to a boil. Simmer gently for half an hour then turn into a deep -basin to get cold. When quite cold place the beef in it and turn it -over five or six times in the course of the two days it has to wait for -cooking. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span>When required for the table take some good dripping—either -beef or mutton according to which joint you wish to cook—put it into a -baking tin and when quite hot place the meat in it and cook in a nice -hot (but not fierce) oven for three-quarters of an hour to one hour. -Place the meat on a hot dish, turn out the fat which is no longer of -any use. For the gravy put four or five tablespoonfuls of the marinade -into the hot baking tin with a teaspoonful of bovril and bring to a -boil. Add to the boiling gravy, if possible, two or three teaspoonfuls -of cream (not preserved) thickened with a little flour and water mixed -smoothly, and serve either poured over the meat or in a sauce boat.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i> The above will do for loin of mutton.</p> - - -<h4><i>82. Steaks on Toast</i></h4> - -<p>Take a nice thick steak, beat it lightly with the blade of a firm -knife, cut into rounds say about the size of the foot of a large -wineglass, allowing two little steaks per person. Sprinkle with a -little salt. Have a deep frying pan with some good beef dripping ready -melted. Cut some rounds of dry bread a little bigger than the meat. Fry -these a crisp brown in the dripping. Drain them on a strainer. Put some -more fresh dripping in the pan and fry the little steaks which should -be cooked so as to allow the gravy to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> run red when cut. Place each on -the round of toast and serve very hot with some thick brown gravy.</p> - - -<h4><i>83. Scraped Meat Steak</i></h4> - -<p>Take about two pounds of lean steak cut very thick. Scrape it free from -all fat or other particles with a sharp knife on to a big flat dish. -Add pepper and salt to taste, about half a finely sliced and minced -onion, a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce. Work all together with the -blade of the knife pressing the meat, etc., on the dish. In this way -the onion should entirely disappear. Form into little round cakes the -size of a small round dinner biscuit only three times as thick. Roll in -egg and breadcrumbs and fry lightly from three to seven minutes. Place -on a hot dish and serve. A welcome addition is the whole yolk of an -egg served on each, and it is quite palatable prepared in this way and -served quite raw.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="MUTTON">MUTTON</h3> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>Roasting.</i> <i>Boiling</i></p> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Leg -</td> -<td class="center"> -7 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -1¾ hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr> -<td colspan="3"> -(This can be cut in half across and used as two joints if desired, thus -doing away with a lot of cold meat for succeeding days) -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Shoulder -</td> -<td class="center"> -7 to 8 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -1¾ to 2 hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Loin -</td> -<td class="center"> -4 to 6 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr">1 to 1¾ hours. -</td> -</tr> -</table> - - -<p>For roasting mutton the oven must be brisk. No joint of mutton should -be put on the top of the stove.</p> - -<p>For dishing and gravy proceed as for beef.</p> - -<p>Shank end of leg of mutton makes very good mutton broth.</p> - - -<h4><i>83. Boiled Mutton</i></h4> - -<p>Boil the bottom half of a leg of mutton in a saucepan three parts full -of water for one and a half hours with a teaspoonful of salt. Serve on -a flat dish with a little parsley as garniture.</p> - -<p>Serve with caper sauce. Proceed as per No. <a href="#r110">110</a> but adding half a cupful -of capers (bottled) instead of the parsley, ten minutes before serving -in a boat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>84. Boiled Mutton for an Invalid</i></h4> - -<p>Take a little of the best end of the neck of mutton and, after removing -the fat, put it in a stone saucepan which has been previously rinsed -in cold water, with half a pint of fresh milk and a little salt. While -boiling add half an onion cut up small. Boil gently for an hour and a -half. Thicken with a little flour and serve.</p> - - -<h4><i>85. Breast of Mutton Stuffed</i></h4> - -<p>Lay the breast of mutton on the pastry board and put sage and onion -stuffing (recipe <a href="#r40">40</a>) into it. Roll and tie with string and bake for one -hour.</p> - - -<h4 id="r86"><i>86. Leg of Mutton Cutlets</i></h4> - -<p>Cut the leg of mutton in half, the top part for roasting and the rest -of the leg cut into cutlets of about an inch thick (it should cut into -four cutlets). Put half an ounce of butter into a pan and melt it over -the fire. Fry the cutlets over a clear, brisk fire for five minutes, -and turn over once during that time. Put the stove top on and cook the -cutlets for fifteen minutes more. Then dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>87. Mutton Cutlets and Mashed Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Cut three pounds of best end of neck of mutton (it is always best to -cut your own cutlets), carefully <span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span>remove the line of fat and scrape the -bone which should not be longer than three inches. Chop the rest off. -Put one ounce of fresh butter in an enamelled frying pan and make it -hot. Lay the cutlets in the butter and put over a brisk fire for three -minutes. Turn once and place on the stove with the top on. Cook for -another fifteen minutes. If any doubt is felt as to their being done, -it is well to cut one to see whether it is cooked perfectly. It should -look red not purple, and the gravy should run. Arrange the mashed -potatoes in a pyramid in the centre of the dish and stand the cutlets -round it with a little paper frill on each bone.</p> - - -<h4><i>88. Boiled Mutton with Mushrooms or Olives</i></h4> - -<p>Take some mutton cutlets from which all the fat has been removed. Put -them into a frying pan with a little good dripping and some finely -sliced onion. Fry to a light brown. Cut into dice one or more sound -turnips and a carrot and put into a small saucepan together with one or -two stoned olives or mushrooms cut up, unless the button ones are used. -Add the fried meat and onion and if possible a little strong meat gravy -to just cover the whole. (The stones of the olives should be put in as -well and removed before serving). Add pepper and salt and allow to stew -gently an hour and a half. Thicken with a little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span> smoothly mixed flour -and water stirred into it. Bring to a boil and serve in a deep dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>89. Hot Pot</i></h4> - -<p>Take about two and half pounds of best end of neck of mutton and after -removing the bones (which will make mutton stock) cut the meat in two -(each cutlet); have two sound turnips and two carrots cut into dice -and one large onion finely sliced. Put the vegetables in a pile in the -centre of a stone (deep) saucepan. Place the meat round it and add -pepper and salt. Pour in a small breakfast cup of cold water and cover -the whole with slices of partly cooked boiled potato. Spread liberally -with some good beef dripping and cover with the saucepan lid. Put into -a good oven and allow two and a half hours for it to cook. Then remove -the lid and leave to brown, when it will be ready to serve. It is best -served in the saucepan with a white serviette wrapped round it.</p> - - -<h4><i>90. Hashed Mutton</i></h4> - -<p>Take the remains of cold roast mutton. Remove the fat and cut the meat -into nice small slices not too thin. Fry lightly a large onion cut into -thin slices, a little diced turnip, and half a dozen dry chillies. -Put all together into an enamelled saucepan and if possible a little -mutton stock made from the bone. Stew <span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span>gently for an hour, add two -tablespoonfuls of washed rice, thicken with a little flour and water -mixed smooth, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>100. Stewed Lamb and Green Peas</i></h4> - -<p>Take two and a half pounds of lean lamb cutlets; put them into an -enamelled saucepan with an onion cut into thin slices, one or two -fresh young turnips peeled and cut into squares, salt and pepper, and -a piece of loaf sugar. Stew gently for an hour, add a breakfast-cupful -of freshly shelled green peas and let them boil all together for twenty -minutes. Thicken with a little smoothly mixed flour and water. Serve -very hot with a little chopped parsley dusted over the top.</p> - - -<h4><i>Roast Lamb</i></h4> - -<p>To roast lamb proceed as for mutton, only the joints, being smaller, -will not require so long to cook. A nice way to serve a leg of lamb is -as follows: have some bacon lard cut into strips about an inch long, -cut little slits in the outside of the leg and insert a piece of bacon -lard in each. Cook in a nice steady oven, allowing about an hour and a -half for a leg of four pounds.</p> - -<p>If you wish to serve a leg of lamb or any other joint cold it is well -to choose a joint not too large for your<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> purpose and to cook it the -day before it is required. Avoid cutting it while it is hot. In this -way the gravy should run freely when the cold joint is cut and the -flavour will be much better. The same applies to any joint intended to -be used cold.</p> - -<p>The proper sauce for roast lamb is the mint sauce. Take twenty-four -leaves of mint chopped very fine, a teacupful of vinegar, and two good -teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar. Dissolve the sugar in vinegar and put -it with the mint into a sauce boat.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="VEAL_AND_PORK">VEAL AND PORK</h3> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>Roasting. Boiling</i></p> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Fillet -</td> -<td class="center"> -5 to 6 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -2 to 2½ hours. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Shoulder -</td> -<td class="center"> -half shoulder from 7 to 9 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -2 to 2¾ hrs. -</td> -</tr> -<tr class="bb"> -<td> -Loin -</td> -<td class="center"> -4 <abbr title="pounds">lbs.</abbr> -</td> -<td class="tdr"> -1 hour. -</td> -</tr> -</table> - - - -<p>If fillet piece is too large to cook for one joint you may cut off -a slice one and a half inches thick, horizontally, to be used later -either as veal cutlets or for veal olives.</p> - -<p>For dishing and obtaining gravy and dripping proceed as for beef.</p> - -<p>Generally speaking, a piece of veal wants a longer time for cooking -than a piece of beef or mutton of the same size.</p> - - -<h4><i>101. Veal Cutlets</i></h4> - -<p>Chop off the long bones of two pounds of veal cutlets and put them to -stew in a stone saucepan with a little salt to make gravy. Melt an -ounce of fresh butter or dripping in an enamelled frying pan in the -stove with the top off and lay the cutlets in it. Fry briskly for ten -minutes turning once or twice. Replace<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span> the stove top and cook for -another twenty minutes. Place on a dish, pour the gravy already made -over them, and serve.</p> - - -<h4><i>102. Stuffed Fillet of Veal</i></h4> - -<p>Take about three pounds of veal cut rather flat, score it several times -with a sharp knife. Lay the sage and onion stuffing (as per recipe <a href="#r40">40</a>) -on it and cover with flare or a buttered paper. Tie it with string, put -it into a baking tin, and bake for one and a half hours. Place on a hot -dish and pour the gravy over.</p> - - -<h4><i>103. Roast Pork</i></h4> - -<p>A small leg of pork or about four pounds of loin must be scored on the -outside with a sharp knife. Put it into a baking tin and put in the -oven for two to two and a half hours. Dish up and treat the dripping as -directed for beef or mutton. Serve with onion or apple sauce.</p> - - -<h4><i>104. Boiled Shoulder of Pork</i></h4> - -<p>Put into boiling water without salt, and boil for one and a half hours -if only half a shoulder; for two hours if whole.</p> - - -<h4><i>105. Boiled Ham</i></h4> - -<p>Must be put into boiling water. If a whole ham, boil for three to three -and a half hours. Let it steam <span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span>for a few minutes on a dish (with a -strainer under it) and then roll in baked breadcrumbs. Never put the -paper collar on the knuckle till thoroughly cold.</p> - - -<h4><i>106. Blanquette de Veau</i></h4> - -<p>Take two pounds of breast of veal, cut it in squares about two inches, -put into a saucepan, cover with cold water, add a large pinch of salt. -Bring to a boil, then skim carefully. Add one whole onion stuck with -four cloves, one carrot cut in halves, a teacupful of white wine, a -bouquet of laurel, thyme, and parsley. Cook for half an hour, then -strain the meat and keep the stock boiling. Mix two ounces of butter -with the same of flour quite smoothly, stir it in the boiling stock -while over the fire. The resulting sauce must be perfectly smooth and -not too thick. Put the meat without the vegetables or herbs back into -the saucepan and continue to cook for an hour and a half till quite -tender, taking the greatest care that it should not burn. Stir the -yolks of two eggs and half an ounce of butter and the juice of a lemon -together and add it to the meat in the saucepan. Bring to a boil. -Arrange the meat in a deep dish and pour the sauce over it. Surround -the whole with six croutons of bread cut in the form of triangles and -fried a golden brown, in butter.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>107. Calf’s Head</i></h4> - -<p>Half a calf’s head is more than enough for three or four persons. The -best plan is to soak the head in a bowl of cold water and a little -salt all night, previously removing the brains. It will take from two -and a half to three hours’ gentle boiling and care must be taken that -the cooking vessel is large enough to allow the head to lie flat and -the water to cover it. It must be put into cold water with a good -piece of salt, a knob of loaf sugar, one onion (large and whole), two -carrots (whole), and two teacupfuls of white wine. Serve with the meat -carefully removed from the bone, either cold with ravigote sauce or -with the cooked vegetables cut into small squares and a few button -mushrooms which have been cooked in the stock. Arrange this on the dish -and pour over it the following brown gravy: Fry lightly two slices of -onion in a little butter allowing it to get brown a little. Add some -of the stock from the head, a few drops of A. 1. sauce, and a good -teaspoonful of bovril, or meat juice from some other joint. Thicken -with a little mixed flour and water, pour into the frying pan, bring -to a boil and strain over the meat and vegetables in the dish. The -brains may be cooked separately and beaten into this gravy after it is -strained.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>108. Calf’s Feet</i></h4> - -<p>Calf’s feet are of great use in the cooking for invalids. Soak as for -calf’s head over night. Put into a saucepan with cold water and a good -piece of salt, one onion whole and one whole carrot. This will make an -excellent soup served with the meat cut into nice little pieces and -the vegetables cut as directed for calf’s head. But if the feet are -intended for jelly it is better to omit the vegetables. Half a pint of -good port wine can be added to the stock after it is cooked. Before -straining add a teacupful of cold water to clear it.</p> - - -<h4><i>109. Pig’s Trotters</i></h4> - -<p>Pig’s trotters can be served as an addition to a dish of tripe and -onions in which case they require soaking over night as they would be -already salted. Boil them without salt until tender and add to the -cooked tripe. As a separate dish you must, when cooked, roll them in a -freshly beaten egg and then in baked breadcrumbs and fry a golden brown -in a little butter.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="FISH">FISH</h3> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>Frying. Boiling</i></p> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<p>Raw fish should be kept in an uncovered dish in the icebox. Always wash -in a little vinegar and water before cooking. <em>Smoked fish</em> such -as haddock should be boiled always in a deep frying pan allowing the -water to cover it.</p> - - -<p><i>Kippers</i> are difficult to cook without smell and to keep moist. -The best way is to lay the kipper on its back in a flat meat dish. A -small piece of butter should be always put into the dish first and a -larger piece on the open side of the kipper, with a little white paper. -Put into a quick oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. There will be no -smell.</p> - - -<p><i>Dried Sprats</i>, to be treated in the same way but they require -only twelve to fifteen minutes in the oven, and a little more butter.</p> - - -<p><i>Bloaters</i>, like kippers, after removing the head and cleaning and -wiping on a damp cloth.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p> - - -<h4 id="r110"><i>110. Boiled Fish and Melted Butter</i></h4> - - -<p><i>Plaice.</i> Lay your fish on a perforated white stone strainer in -a fish kettle. Cover with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt and a -teaspoonful of vinegar. Put over a quick fire, bring to a boil and keep -it boiling for about fifteen minutes. Have ready the following sauce:—</p> - -<p>Mix one dessertspoonful of flour smoothly with one ounce of butter. Add -sufficient boiling milk to make up to half a pint, and a little salt. -Put it into a double saucepan the bottom half containing boiling water. -Stir with a spoon always the same way until it thickens. Chop about six -sprigs of parsley (not stalk) and add to the sauce. Dish the fish in a -flat dish and serve the sauce in a sauce boat.</p> - - -<p><i>Cod</i> may be cooked in the same way only it must boil for fully -half an hour after it has been brought to the boil.</p> - - -<p><i>Hake.</i> As for cod but boil only for twenty-five minutes.</p> - - -<p><i>Halibut.</i> Is seldom bought whole. Buy say two pounds and boil for -twenty-five to forty minutes according to the thickness.</p> - - -<p><i>Turbot.</i> Say two pounds. Must be put into <em>boiling</em> water -and boiled gently for thirty minutes. Oyster <span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span>sauce, foundation as -above, only the oysters (each cut in two) must be added after the sauce -has thickened and kept stirred for four to five minutes.</p> - - -<h4><i>111. Fried Fish</i></h4> - - -<p><i>Plaice.</i> Cut about two pounds of filleted plaice into four -pieces. Beat an egg in a plate, white and yolk together. Put the fish -into it and then into rolled rusk crumbs. Have ready in an enamelled -frying pan about half a pound of best tub lard and when thoroughly hot -(it can be found out by dropping a crumb into the fat when it will -sizzle) it is ready for the dish. Lay the fish into it and fry for ten -to fifteen minutes. Dish with a slice on a flat dish and serve with a -garniture of lemon.</p> - -<p>This recipe applies to soles—unless the sole is very thick, when it -must fry for twenty minutes. Whiting for twenty minutes and halibut for -twenty-five minutes.</p> - - -<h4><i>112. Fried Smelts</i></h4> - -<p>Make a batter of one teacupful of flour mixed carefully with milk till -it is quite thin enough to run. Add a pinch of salt. Have ready in an -enamelled frying pan a quarter pound of best tub lard boiling. Dip each -smelt well into the batter and fry in the hot lard for ten to fifteen -minutes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>113. Whitebait</i></h4> - -<p>Are treated like smelts but the batter must be only half as thick and -the time required for cooking is from seven to ten minutes. Take up the -fish from the batter with a slice and scatter into the boiling fat. Do -not crowd the pan on any account.</p> - - -<h4><i>114. Stewed Eels</i></h4> - -<p>Two or three freshly skinned eels cut into small pieces about two -inches long. Put into a stone saucepan with a little salt and a piece -of loaf sugar, one claret glass of white claret or cooking sherry, and -about a teacupful of good beef stock. Cover the eels with water and -slice a small Spanish onion into it. Stew gently for three-quarters of -an hour, thicken with a little flour mixed with water and serve in the -stone saucepan. Care must be taken not to break the fish when stirring -in the thickening.</p> - - -<h4><i>115. Salmon or Cod Cutlets</i></h4> - -<p>One and a half to two pounds in three or four cutlets, dip into a -beaten egg and then roll in crumbs, made preferably of German rusks. -Have ready a quarter of a pound of best tub lard in an enamelled frying -pan and when hot put the fish in and fry for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> a quarter of an hour to -twenty minutes, turning over once. To ascertain if properly cooked pass -the knife down by the side of the bone and if cooked the knife will -pass quite easily. Dish with a slice on a flat dish and garnish with -parsley and lemon cut in quarters.</p> - - -<h4><i>116. Sole for an Invalid</i></h4> - -<p>Lay a filleted sole in a rather deep meat dish and cover with milk and -a little salt and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. This will -make the sauce. Cover with another dish (flat) and bake in a quick oven -for about half an hour. Serve very hot with the sauce and a little -chopped parsley sprinkled over it.</p> - - -<h4><i>117. Crimped Skate and Black Butter</i></h4> - -<p>Take about one and a half pounds of crimped skate. Have ready in -an enamelled frying pan about two ounces of butter made hot and a -tablespoonful of vinegar. Put it over the fire and let it slightly -burn. Fry the skate in it for twenty minutes and then serve on a hot -dish with a few slices of lemon laid round it.</p> - - -<h4><i>118. Pickled Herrings or Mackerel</i></h4> - -<p>Have eight fresh herrings or four large mackerel cleaned and remove -the heads. Lay not very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span> closely together with the backs upwards in a -pie-dish. Fill the dish with vinegar and a few peppercorns, a little -salt, an onion (sliced), and a piece of butter about the size of a -walnut. Bake in a moderately quick oven for about one and a half hours. -Serve in a glass dish and strain the vinegar over them.</p> - - -<h4><i>119. Herrings in Paper</i></h4> - -<p>Have ready cleaned and beheaded say six herrings with soft roes if -possible. Lay six pieces of paper (buttered) on the hot shelf of the -oven to melt the butter, then wrap each fish in a piece of paper. Have -ready about a quarter of a pound of tub lard melted in an enamelled -frying pan and lay the fish in the papers in the boiling fat. The fire -must not be too fierce. Fry for about twenty or twenty-five minutes -over a brisk fire. Dish up and serve in the papers.</p> - - -<h4><i>120. Red Mullet</i></h4> - -<p>Take for four persons two good-sized mullets. (Remove the head if -desired; never split them open.) Have a deep enamelled frying pan -ready. Put into it three ounces of butter, four or five wafer-thin -slices of onion, two tablespoonfuls of bottled tomato sauce or catsup. -Bring to a boil and lay the fish gently in the hot pan. Keep the -butter boiling lightly <span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span>round the fish. Baste frequently with a large -spoon; then carefully turn the fish, taking care not to tear the skin -(thus spoiling the appearance). Generally it will take from thirty to -forty minutes to cook the fish through. This can be easily ascertained -by passing the blade of a fine knife gently through the fish by the -side of the bone. Have a little more butter and tomato catsup melted -together in a basin. Place the fish on a hot dish and pour the melted -butter and tomato sauce you have ready over the fish and serve very -hot. It should never be allowed to brown, so as to retain its pretty -red colour.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="FOWLS_AND_GAME_BIRDS">FOWLS AND GAME BIRDS</h3> -</div> - -<p class="center p0"><i>Roasting and Between Boiling</i></p> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<p>In roasting birds the great point is to avoid dryness.</p> - -<p>Butter should be put <em>into</em> the bird as well as outside.</p> - -<p>The fowl should never be washed with water after being trussed but -wiped with a damp cloth.</p> - -<p>On no account should a fowl intended for roasting be floured on the -outside. It is an abominable practice, causing the skin to become -leathery and thick.</p> - -<p>Fowls or any birds already plucked and trussed cannot be kept for more -than two days. But before trussing they may be kept <em>hanging</em> for -three or four days providing the weather is not thundery or hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>121. Roast Goose</i></h4> - -<p>Have a goose of seven or eight pounds trussed for roasting. Stuff with -sage and onion stuffing (rec: <a href="#r40">40</a>), butter the breast well and cook in -a quick but not fierce oven for three and a half hours. Garnish with -sausages.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>122. Roast Duck</i></h4> - -<p>If not stuffed put a piece of butter inside and butter the breast -liberally. Cook in a quick oven for one and a half hours. Dish as for -roast fowl and serve with green peas as per recipe. If stuffed it must -be cooked for one and three quarters hours.</p> - - -<h4><i>123. Wild Duck</i></h4> - -<p>Put some butter inside the duck, butter the breast, and fasten a slice -of very fat bacon to the breast with a skewer. Bake in a quick oven for -one and a half hours. Serve garnished with parsley.</p> - - -<h4><i>124. Roast Fowl</i></h4> - -<p>Put inside a properly trussed fowl about an ounce of butter and spread -butter also over the breast. Do not flour your fowl. Bake in a quick -oven for one and a quarter hours (roast one and a half hours). When the -fowl is done lay on a dish, strain the butter out of the meat tin, boil -up a little water in it to make gravy and pour over the fowl in the -dish. If to be stuffed see recipe: <a href="#r41">41</a>.</p> - - -<h4><i>125. Roast Pheasant</i></h4> - -<p>Should be cooked in the same way as chicken and served with cranberry -sauce or black currant jelly.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> To make cranberry sauce take half a -pound of cranberries, a good teacupful of powdered sugar and just cover -with hot water. Boil gently for an hour. Sometimes the sugar is omitted.</p> - - -<h4><i>126. Snipe and Quail</i></h4> - -<p>Snipe must not be trussed, but quail is always trussed. Butter the -breasts; a quail should have a piece of butter inside as well. Bake -in a quick oven for half an hour. Lay the birds on slices of thick -buttered toast. Serve them on toast with red or black currant jelly.</p> - - -<h4><i>127. Roast Partridge</i></h4> - -<p>Butter the breast and inside. Bake in a tin in the oven for -three-quarters of an hour. Lay the bird on a thick slice of toast. Pour -the fat out of the tin, boil up in it a very little water and serve the -gravy thus made in a sauce boat.</p> - -<p>The best toast for all game birds is made as follows: Remove the crust -from as many pieces of bread as required. When the birds are cooked -place them in another tin or dish and bring the fat in which they have -been cooked to a boil on the stove. Place the slices of bread in the -boiling fat and fry till they are a crisp brown.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>128. Roast Pigeons</i></h4> - -<p>Take say two pigeons trussed for roasting. Put a good-sized piece of -butter into each and liberally butter the breasts. Put into a baking -tin and bake for half an hour to three-quarters. For dishing, split in -halves down the breast (it will be easy if the birds are well done) -and lay on hot buttered toast. Strain the fat out of the tin and put a -little good meat juice into it. Stir in a little well-mixed flour and -water and serve with green peas.</p> - - -<h4><i>129. Boiled Fowl</i></h4> - -<p>Take a lean fowl and fasten a slice of lean bacon over the breast with -a small skewer. Put into a saucepan, with enough boiling water to -cover it, with an onion and a little white wine. Stew gently for an -hour. Remove the fowl whole and serve with melted butter sauce as for -fish without the parsley. The liquid in which it boiled should make -excellent soup if you boil in it any remains of chicken carcass just -for flavouring, or add some good beef stock.</p> - - -<h4><i>130. Venison</i></h4> - -<p>Melt an ounce of butter or dripping in a baking tin and when hot lay in -it about three pounds of venison not too fat. Bake in a fairly quick -oven<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span> for two hours, basting it from time to time with the butter out -of the tin. Make the gravy as for beef. Serve with red currant jelly.</p> - - -<h4><i>131. Roast Turkey</i></h4> - -<p>Have ready a turkey of about seven pounds trussed for roasting. Stuff -it with the best sausage meat and some truffles cut up very small. -Butter the breast very liberally and bake in a quick oven for three -hours. Garnish with sausages.</p> - - -<h4><i>132. Chicken Jelly</i></h4> - -<p>Take an old fowl trussed and slash it well across the breast and thighs -with a sharp knife. Place it in a large saucepan, cover with cold -water, add a little salt, two big pieces of loaf sugar, and one whole -onion. Stew gently for three hours, strain from the fowl into a deep -basin, add quickly a teacupful of cold water and set it to get cold. It -can be used either as chicken broth or, with the addition of a glass of -good white wine, as a jelly in which to serve a young roast fowl.</p> - - -<h4><i>133. Chicken Rissoles</i></h4> - -<p>Mince finely the remains of cold chicken with a slice of onion. Make -a little sauce, stirring smoothly one ounce of fresh butter into a -tablespoonful of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> flour, and pouring half a pint of boiling milk into -it. Return it to the saucepan and allow it to boil (a double saucepan -is best for all milk cooking); it will then thicken; put the chicken -into it, with a pinch of salt. Make some deep light pastry cases and -put a thick finger of larded bread into each till the pastry is cooked. -If the top edge of the pastry is moistened with a little milk, the lid -can be easily removed when cooked. Put the chicken mixture into the -cases after removing the bread, replace the top, and serve very hot, in -a meat dish.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="VEGETABLES_AND_SALADS">VEGETABLES AND SALADS</h3> -</div> - - -<h4><i>Green Vegetables</i></h4> - -<p><em>Always</em> boil without a lid on.</p> - -<p><em>Always</em> put straight into boiling water.</p> - -<p><em>Never</em> add salt or soda till the vegetables are in the water.</p> - -<p><em>Never</em> have green vegetables lying in cold water more than half -an hour before they are to be cooked.</p> - -<p>Cabbage, savoy, cauliflower should be steeped for ten minutes in a -pan of cold water with a good tablespoonful of salt. Time to boil -twenty-five to thirty minutes.</p> - -<p>Potatoes must lie in cold water without salt.</p> - -<p>Onions should never lie in water or be wet before being used.</p> - -<p>Turnips, carrots, and parsnips should be washed but never allowed to -lie in cold water.</p> - -<p>Celery should be treated like cabbage.</p> - -<p>Spinach, on the contrary, requires to be washed in seven different lots -of cold water and only the last lot without salt.</p> - -<p>Fresh beans or peas should never pass through any cold water.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>134. Dry Vegetables</i></h4> - -<p>Haricot beans should be put to soak for at least twelve hours in cold -water—pint of beans to three pints of cold water. No salt.</p> - -<p>Dry peas (not split) the same.</p> - - -<h4><i>133. Salads and Their Dressings</i></h4> - -<p>There are many green salads, and a salad is always a very welcome -addition to a meal if there should be cold meat or fowl in any form. -Lettuce, endive, watercress, corn salad, chicory or tomato, can be -dressed as follows: Having washed and dried the salad (by means of a -wire salad basket swung vigorously), place it in the salad bowl with a -little chopped onion or several young spring onions according to the -season. To two salad-spoonfuls of vinegar dissolve one salt-spoonful -of salt and a little pepper, turn into the salad and add three -salad-spoonfuls of best salad oil. Turn the salad over for five minutes -with the spoon and fork. The bowl should then appear quite dry, the -dressing having been taken up on the green salad. If dressing tomatoes -alone, place the tomatoes which must be firm and sound in a large basin -and pour over them some boiling water. The skin will then peel off -easily leaving the fruit whole. Cut them into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span> slices, put into a glass -dish and sprinkle over them a little freshly chopped onion. Mix in a -breakfast cup the oil and vinegar, salt and pepper (always taking care -to add the oil last); stir well and pour over the tomatoes in the dish. -It is best not to attempt to turn this salad as the tomatoes so easily -get broken and the appearance of the salad is then spoiled. Sprinkle -over all a little finely chopped parsley.</p> - - -<p><i>Potato Salad.</i> Take some boiled potatoes, cut into slices not too -thin and a little chopped onion. Place in a salad bowl. Mix the oil and -vinegar as before directed only allow exactly double the quantity of -dressing as the potatoes absorb it. Turn over well before serving.</p> - - -<p><i>Chicory as Salad.</i> Will need the dressing prepared as for tomato.</p> - - -<p><i>Russian Salad.</i> Any remains of cold beans, peas, carrots, -beet-root, etc., with the addition of one hard-boiled egg, the white -chopped separately from the yolk and added to the salad only after -it is dressed. Put into a large basin all the cold vegetables it is -intended to use together with a little finely chopped onion. Mix in a -cup the raw yolk of one egg, two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span> teaspoonfuls of cream if possible, -two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and three of oil, pepper, and salt. Work -all together and add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Turn it into the -vegetables and turn the salad very carefully once or twice. Sprinkle -the chopped egg over all.</p> - - -<h4><i>136. Asparagus</i></h4> - -<p>This delightful vegetable is a welcome and useful addition to either -a lunch or dinner and can be served either hot or cold. If cold, then -with a nice mayonnaise sauce or with oil and vinegar. If hot, then as -follows: Prepare the asparagus, carefully cutting each stick slanting -thus removing about an inch from each. (These short ends can be washed -and put into stock to flavour it for asparagus soup. A few of the -tops being added for the sake of appearance.) Boil in plenty of water -till tender, strain carefully and serve with melted butter in which a -few dry brown breadcrumbs have been added, or quite clear butter as -desired. If any asparagus is left over from the meal it should be used -in an omelette.</p> - - -<h4><i>137. Indian Corn</i></h4> - -<p>Take the corn and after cutting the stump end close to the green leaf, -put into a saucepan of boiling<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span> water sufficient to cover it and boil -gently with a good piece of salt for four hours. When cooked, pare off -the green leaves and serve on a clean serviette with melted butter in a -sauce boat.</p> - - -<h4><i>138. Salsify</i></h4> - -<p>Carefully wash and remove shoots from the salsify. Place it in boiling -stock and boil till tender. Serve very hot in a vegetable dish either -with a white sauce or with a little melted butter over it in two lots -as they must not be crowded.</p> - - -<h4><i>139. New Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Carefully select potatoes about the same size, have them scraped and -put into boiling water with a little piece of mint and some salt. -Boil for fifteen to twenty minutes or until quite tender, turn into a -vegetable dish and put a piece of butter the size of a walnut melted -over the potatoes, and dust a little finely chopped parsley over them.</p> - - -<h4><i>140. Potatoes Sautés</i></h4> - -<p>Take some potatoes which have been boiled and cut them into thin -slices. Melt in a frying pan about an ounce of fresh butter and when -this boils lay the potatoes in it, not on top of each other but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span> -perfectly flat, while the pan stands on the stove. Allow the potatoes -to brown first one side and then the other. Dish with a slice into a -vegetable dish and dust over with a little finely chopped parsley.</p> - - -<h4><i>141. Mashed Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Boil the potatoes carefully, strain, and shake vigorously with the lid -on. Break them up then and beat with a carving fork, with two ounces of -fresh butter; then add fresh milk and continue beating till they attain -the consistency of very thick cream. They will then be ready to serve -with cutlets or as a bed for sausages.</p> - - -<h4><i>142. Stuffed Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Peel your potatoes and cut the ends so that they are flat. Scrape the -centre out of each potato leaving a wall of about a quarter of an inch -thick all round. Mince finely any cold beef, mutton, or veal you may -have by you with one large ring of Spanish onion chopped very small, -pepper and salt, and a little mushroom if possible. Moisten slightly -with a little meat juice. Fill in each potato with this mixture. Melt -in a baking tin sufficient beef dripping, a quarter of a pound to every -six or eight potatoes would be right, and when boiling, but not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span> beyond -boiling point, stand the potatoes in it. The baking tin should be small -enough to allow the dripping to come well up the sides of the potatoes. -Cook in a fairly quick oven from thirty to forty minutes. When cooked -brush very lightly over the top with the beaten white of an egg. Dish -very carefully so as not to take up the fat.</p> - - -<h4><i>143. French Fried Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Cut your peeled potatoes into long strips about half an inch in -thickness and leave them in the cold water. Melt about half a pound of -tub lard (not bladder lard as this has always flour mixed with it which -causes the things to burn in the frying pan). When the lard is hot, -drop a small crumb into it and if the fat sizzles round it is ready for -the potatoes. Put the pan over a brisk fire and drop the potatoes as -you take them out of the water straight into the pan. If the pan is not -large enough to take them all flat, cook in two lots.</p> - - -<h4><i>144. Savoury Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Have the potatoes boiled and not broken. Cut into dice some fat bacon. -Put a piece of butter into a small enamelled frying pan and when melted -put the bacon fat into it and let it brown slightly. Pour over the -potatoes in the dish and serve at <span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span>once. This is a good way to serve -potatoes with cold meat.</p> - - -<h4><i>145. Potato Croquettes</i></h4> - -<p>Have ready about two or three breakfast-cups of nicely mashed potato. -Form into either small round cakes or sausage-shaped ones. Roll in a -plate of well-beaten egg and some fine crumbs made from rolled rusk -crumbs; fry a light brown in some good dripping or lard, and serve -piled up in a dish, garnished with a little fresh parsley.</p> - - -<h4><i>146. Baked Potatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Cut your peeled potatoes in four pieces lengthwise. Melt in a baking -tin half a pound of beef or veal dripping (mutton dripping will not -do) on the top of the stove, and when boiling put the potatoes into -it. Turn them once and only then sprinkle with a little salt. Place in -a brisk oven and bake for twenty minutes or half an hour. Dish with a -slice.</p> - - -<h4><i>147. Green Peas</i></h4> - -<p>Put into a saucepan of boiling water half a vegetable dish of green -peas. Add two lumps of loaf sugar, a small sprig of mint, a pinch of -soda, and a flat teaspoonful of salt. Young peas should cook from -twenty to thirty minutes over a clear fire with <span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span>the saucepan lid -off. Strain through a cullender and when dished sprinkle with a good -dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; add a piece of butter about the size -of a walnut and turn over with a spoon several times before serving.</p> - -<p>Bottled peas treated in this manner very closely resemble fresh peas. -They must be washed in three waters before cooking.</p> - - -<h4><i>148. Scarlet Runner and Broad Beans</i></h4> - -<p>Have four pounds of beans, trim them all round with a knife to remove -all the string and cut them lengthwise into thin slices. Do not put -them into cold water. Have ready the saucepan three parts full of -boiling water. Put in the beans with a little salt and a tiny piece -of soda. Boil for twenty minutes if the beans are young and a little -longer if they are not quite fresh. Strain into a cullender then into a -vegetable dish.</p> - -<p>Broad beans should be treated in the same way after shucking them. Add -a piece of butter when dished and sprinkle over with a little chopped -parsley.</p> - -<p>Never allow vegetables of any kind to be prepared over night. It will -be found that peas or beans will be hard, cabbage or other greens -offensive, and potatoes become flabby.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>149. Cauliflower</i></h4> - -<p>Take a young cauliflower with a firm head. Take off the thick outside -leaves and cut a cross on the bottom of the stump. Stand it in boiling -water with the flower uppermost allowing the water to come right over -it. Add some salt and a tiny bit of soda. Boil until tender (from -fifteen to twenty minutes). Dish without breaking, upright in the dish. -Pour half a teacupful of clarified butter over the cauliflower and dust -a few rolled breadcrumbs, which have been browned in the oven, over the -top.</p> - - -<h4><i>150. Boiled Onions and White Sauce</i></h4> - -<p>Cut eight Spanish onions into rings. Put them into a saucepan three -parts full of boiling water with a dessertspoonful of salt and boil for -one hour. Strain into a cullender.</p> - -<p>Take two large tablespoonfuls of flour and mix smoothly with one and -a half tablespoonfuls of butter. Add boiling milk to the paste, about -half a pint, return it to the saucepan and stir till it boils; then -turn the onions into the sauce and serve very hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>151. Mushroom Rissoles</i></h4> - -<p>Cut half a pound of fresh mushrooms into very small pieces. Put into a -small enamelled saucepan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> with one slice of Spanish onion chopped very -fine, a pinch of salt and a little pepper. Add a little meat juice and -a teacup of water and stew gently until the mushrooms have absorbed all -the moisture. Turn out into a plate and allow to cool. Prepare some -light paste, cut out with a teacup into rounds, brush the rims of each -round with a little milk. Put a small teaspoonful of the mushrooms into -each and fold over into lozenge shape. Take the shelf out of the oven -while it is hot and lay upon it a sheet of paper (white) which has been -previously buttered. As soon as the butter has melted lay the rissoles -on and bake in quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. To be eaten -hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>152. Stuffed Tomatoes</i></h4> - -<p>Cut a thin slice off eight large tomatoes. Remove part of the inside -with a teaspoon. Put half an ounce of fresh butter into a frying pan -(must be fresh butter). Take one large rasher of bacon, fat and lean, -and half a Spanish onion; chop very fine, add a pinch of mixed herbs, -pepper and salt, and the inside of the tomatoes. Make the butter hot -in the pan and place the tomatoes (the cut side downwards) in it and -stand on the stove with the top on. Leave for one minute and a half. -Turn them and place the stuffing in the corner of the pan. Cook both -together in this way <span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span>for ten minutes more taking care not to let -burn. Take out the tomatoes with a slice and place on a fairly deep -meat dish; fill them with the stuffing, having carefully taken it up -with the slice so as to avoid grease. Pour over all about half a small -teacupful of meat juice.</p> - - -<h4><i>153. Bubble and Squeak</i></h4> - -<p>Chop lightly with a knife in a dish any cold greens and potatoes you -may have left. Melt in an enamelled frying pan one ounce more or less -of fresh butter. Turn the vegetables into it. While cooking use a large -dinner fork to press the vegetables into a smooth paste, turning it -over and over with the fork all the time to prevent it sticking to the -pan. Vegetables so treated should work into a perfectly smooth, stiff -paste and leave the pan as clean as when they went into it. Add a -little pepper and salt.</p> - -<p>Be careful to remove all stumps of cabbage before using.</p> - - -<h4><i>154. To Use up Cold Vegetables</i></h4> - -<p>Cold boiled French beans, cold carrots, cabbage, and a little chopped -onion may be put into an enamelled frying pan in which one and a -half ounces of fresh butter has been melted. Fry the vegetables very -lightly, not making them brown. Turn into a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span> deep dish and pour a -little meat gravy over them. This may be served as a dish by itself or -with cold meat.</p> - - -<h4><i>155. Spinach as a Separate Dish</i></h4> - -<p>Wash through several waters, into which a little salt has been added, -four pounds of fresh spinach after having removed all stalks. The last -water should be without salt. The spinach would have absorbed enough -moisture to cook it in but nevertheless have ready a saucepan half full -of boiling water and put the spinach into it. This will prevent a most -disagreeable smell being emitted while the spinach is cooking. Boil for -twenty minutes, keeping the spinach pressed down with a fork. It should -then be quite tender; if it is not so, boil for five minutes longer. -Strain through a cullender, pressing hard with a plate or wooden -vegetable press to get all the water out; put into a bowl and beat well -with a fork and then work it into another bowl through a hair sieve -using a large wooden spoon. Then work in half a gill of cream, a small -piece of butter and a little milk. The spinach ought then to have the -consistency of thick cream. Put it into a dish and serve with croutons -of lightly fried French roll or garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span></p> - -<h3 class="nobreak" id="PASTRIES_SWEETS_AND_CAKES">PASTRIES, SWEETS, AND CAKES</h3> -</div> - - -<h4><i>General Remarks</i></h4> - -<p>For Tarts the fruit of all kinds must always be cooked first by itself. -Bottled fruits should also be brought to a boil with sugar before being -put into the pastry, except for baked apple dumplings.</p> - -<p>For Puddings the fruit should not be cooked before. Suet crust should -be mixed with water with just the chill off but not hot.</p> - -<p>Milk puddings always require to be cooked in a very slow oven.</p> - -<p>Never use brown sugar for sweetening except for Christmas pudding and -apple pudding.</p> - - -<h4 id="r156"><i>156. Pastry for Meat Pies</i></h4> - -<p>For meat pies, sausage rolls, etc., the following pastry is -recommended. Put two and a half cupfuls of flour into a bowl and work -into it a quarter of a pound of butter. Mix with a little tepid water. -Roll out on the board and spread it thickly with a quarter of a pound -of lard (half at a time). Turn over the ends of the pastry, roll out -again and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> spread the rest of the lard. Turn in the ends again and roll -finally for the crust of your pie.</p> - - -<h4><i>157. Pastry for Puddings</i></h4> - -<p>Put into the pastry bowl two and a half to three breakfast-cupfuls of -flour and half a teaspoonful of baking powder (unless self-raising -flour is being used in which case no baking powder is necessary). Have -a quarter of a pound of beef suet carefully separated from all skin -and chopped very finely. Work the suet smoothly into the flour, add a -pinch of salt, and mix to a good stiff paste with a little tepid water. -Roll out on the board to the thickness required. Carefully butter the -basin before putting the pastry into it, and moisten the edge of the -paste at the top of the basin to make the top crust adhere and thus -enclose the meat or fruit securely. Place over the basin a wet pudding -cloth and tie firmly with a string. Use always a pudding basin that has -a good groove round it to prevent the string from slipping off. The -best material for a pudding cloth is a new piece of unbleached calico -that has been well scalded to remove all the dressing from it, and the -easiest way to keep it clean is to place it in a bowl of cold water to -soak each time it has been used. Scrape off with a knife any particles -of paste that may remain on it and rinse well through several warm -waters. No soap <span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span>must be used. Dry thoroughly and pass through a mangle.</p> - - -<h4><i>158. Pastry for Pies and Tarts</i></h4> - -<p>Three breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour, a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter, and two ounces of lard. Work the butter and lard into -the flour with a good pinch of salt and mix to a smooth elastic paste -with milk (sour milk may be used with advantage). Roll the paste on -the board about half an inch thick. Rub a little butter lightly round -the rim of the dish and put a border of paste round it. Brush a little -milk on the top of that to allow the other crust to stick to it. Roll -out an amount of paste sufficient to form a crust over the top, press -the edges well together, allowing plenty of room in the paste so that -it does not slip off at the edges. Pare with a floured knife round the -rim the edges of the pastry and cook for three quarters of an hour in a -brisk oven.</p> - - -<h4><i>159. Chocolate Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>A nice, fresh moulded sponge cake, half a pound of chocolate, in -blocks, the whites of four eggs, and half a small teacupful of powdered -sugar. Put half the chocolate into a stone or enamelled saucepan, just -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span>cover it with cold water and let it cook for ten minutes. Then add two -tablespoonfuls of water, place on the stove and work it with a dessert -spoon to a stiff paste. Turn this into a small bowl to get cold. Cut -the sponge cake into slices and spread between the pieces all of the -chocolate paste. Beat then the whites of the four eggs in a plate with -a knife to a stiff froth and, after having added the sugar to the -remaining chocolate which has been grated into powder, work it smooth, -pour it with the whites into the bowl, stir for fifteen minutes and -then pour over the moulded cake.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i> The four yokes can be used either for custard or -mayonnaise on the same day. They would keep till next day if covered -closely in a cup.</p> - - -<h4><i>160. Apples in Syrup</i></h4> - -<p>Take a half pound tin of golden syrup, put it in an enamelled saucepan, -rinse the tin with half a tin of boiling water. Bring to a boil, add -two teaspoonfuls of raspberry essence. Carefully peel and core six or -seven sound apples. Drop them, cut in halves, into the boiling syrup -and stew gently without the lid for a good half hour or longer if not -quite soft. The pieces should remain whole and be almost transparent.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>161. Pears in Syrup</i></h4> - -<p>Make your syrup of one and a half breakfast-cupfuls of powdered sugar -and the same quantity of hot water, to which must be added eight good -cloves. When boiling add your peeled pears which should retain their -stalks and should not be cored. A small glass of claret or any red wine -will greatly improve both taste and appearance. Cook for an hour and a -half or till tender.</p> - - -<h4><i>162. Plum Dumplings</i></h4> - -<p>Take one and a half pounds of sound big plums and make paste for -dumpling as follows: One large breakfast-cup of flour mixed with a -little butter, make into a stiff paste with a little water. Wrap each -plum in its case using a little milk to cause the edges to stick close. -Boil in a large saucepan of boiling water fifteen or twenty minutes. If -care is taken the dumplings should remain whole. Dish carefully into a -flat dish and serve very hot with a large bowl of well-beaten cream and -sifted sugar.</p> - - -<h4><i>163. Boiled Apple Dumplings</i></h4> - -<p>Make a good pudding crust of a large breakfast-cupful of flour and a -quarter of a pound of beef suet rubbed into it. Mix to a stiff paste -and roll out on <span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span>a board in thin pieces. Put into each a small peeled -apple, moisten the edges with a little milk, taking care that the apple -is completely encased in the paste. Drop into a saucepan of boiling -water and boil gently for two to three minutes. Serve very hot with a -bowl of beaten cream and another of finely sifted sugar.</p> - - -<h4><i>164. Baked Apple Dumplings</i></h4> - -<p>Make a nice piecrust as for tarts. Have ready the apples required and -put one into each piece of crust. Bake in a steady oven from three to -four minutes. Serve with cream and sugar.</p> - - -<h4><i>165. Pancakes</i></h4> - -<p>Beat together two eggs, add a teacupful of milk. Mix into it one and a -half ounces of flour and work it with a spoon to a smooth paste with a -pinch of salt. Have your fire nice and hot and perfectly clear. Keep -the top of the stove on all the time. Take a piece of best tub lard -and melt it in a frying pan (kept for pancakes only), run it well over -the surface of the pan when it is quite hot. Turn the fat out and pour -about a third of a teacupful of the batter into the pan taking care -that it runs all over the pan, which should be only about the size of -a pudding plate. Loosen the edges with the blade of a knife and shake -it from time to time to prevent it from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span> sticking to the pan. Turn with -a slice if unable to toss. Tossing is perfectly easy but requires some -practice. It is done by a turn of the wrist, and if these directions -are carefully followed the pancake should leave the pan perfectly -clean. Turn on to a flat dish and serve either with jam or sugar, or if -savoury pancakes are desired the following hint is a good one: Melt in -a cup on the stove about an ounce of fresh butter with a little finely -shredded onion in it; put it into a hot sauce boat and serve with the -pancakes.</p> - -<p>Each pancake takes from five to seven minutes to cook.</p> - - -<h4><i>166. Apple Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Take about a quarter of a pound of finely chopped beef suet, two and a -half breakfast-cupfuls of self-raising flour, a little pinch of salt. -Mix with chilled water to a stiff paste. Roll three parts of this into -a large piece on the pastry board. Have ready a pudding basin buttered -by putting a piece of butter the size of a walnut into it and standing -it on the stove to melt. Then let it run over every part of the inside -of the basin. This will prevent the paste sticking. Line the basin -with the paste. Peel, say eight apples, and cut them all round the -core. Fill the basin with them. Add three cloves or, if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span> preferred, -a little rind of lemon, sweeten with brown sugar (about four or five -good tablespoonfuls), cover with another layer of the paste, working -the ends together well so as to prevent the apples coming through. Tie -a wet cloth over and stand the basin in a saucepan of boiling water to -boil for three hours.</p> - - -<h4><i>167. Treacle or Jam Pudding in a Basin</i></h4> - -<p>Have the paste ready as for apple pudding and the basin buttered as -above. Roll the pastry in thin layers and line the basin with one -layer, then add a layer of golden syrup or jam and repeat until the -basin is full. Cover with paste, tie up in cloth and boil in a saucepan -of boiling water for three and a half hours.</p> - - -<h4><i>168. Apple Soufflé</i></h4> - -<p>Pare and cut up say eight nice-sized apples. Put them in a stone -casserole with a breakfast-cupful of sugar and a piece of fresh butter -the size of a nutmeg. Stir gently now and then and, when cooked, beat -with a fork to break up the lumps and make all quite smooth. Take the -whites of four fresh eggs and place them on a large dinner plate; beat -these with a freshly <em>cleaned</em> knife to a stiff froth which should -stand up. Put the whites into the apples in the saucepan (from which -the moisture should have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span> been drained as much as possible) and stir -well with a large spoon. Turn the soufflé into a rather deep dish, -sprinkle about a teaspoonful of powdered sugar over the top, and place -in a moderate oven. Care must be taken not to slam the oven door or -place anything heavily on the top of the stove for fear the soufflé -will go down. It must not remain in the oven for more than ten to -fifteen minutes. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked.</p> - - -<h4><i>169. Apple Charlotte</i></h4> - -<p>Prepare the apples as for the soufflé. Take about four rather thin -slices of nice bread and cut them into diamond shapes. Put about one -ounce of fresh butter in an enamelled frying pan and lightly fry the -bread to a golden brown. Dust with a little powdered sugar and place -the bread on the dish to form a pyramid with the apples in the centre. -Put into the oven for about half an hour (slow oven) and serve on a -flat dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>170. Apple Tart</i></h4> - -<p>Take about six apples and pare finely. Do not core them but cut them -in slices round the core. Put a teacupful of powdered sugar in a stone -saucepan. Add a very little cold water. Stew gently for half an hour -to three-quarters and turn into a pie-dish. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span>Pastry as recipe No. <a href="#r177">177</a>. -Fresh fruit is always better cooked first before putting into the -pastry.</p> - - -<h4><i>171. Apple Fritters</i></h4> - -<p>Pare, core, and cut into thin rings two good-sized apples. This should -not be done before they are wanted as they would quickly turn brown -if left standing. Have ready in a pastry bowl about a teacupful of -flour mixed with milk, smooth but very slack. Put about a quarter of a -pound of fresh tub lard in a frying pan and melt it over the fire till -hot, but guard against burning. Dip each slice of apple into the mixed -flour and then drop it into the hot lard. The fire should be hot enough -to allow these to cook with the top of the stove on. Turn over each -fritter once, and after three minutes dish them with a slice into a -dish with a strainer underneath. Dust over with a little powdered sugar -and serve. If they have to be kept hot till wanted, take care that the -dish is not covered or the oven door shut, as in that case they will -lose their crispness.</p> - - -<h4><i>172. Boiled Custard</i></h4> - -<p>Mix with milk two tablespoonfuls of flour till perfectly smooth. Add -three beaten eggs, whites and yolks together, and about a pint of milk -with sugar to taste. Turn into a stone jar, and place the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span>jar in a -saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Stir the mixture always one -way, till it thickens. Serve in custard cups.</p> - - -<h4><i>173. Tapioca or Sago Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Put the tapioca or sago about an inch thick at the bottom of the -pie-dish. Pour boiling milk on to it to about half a dishful and leave -it to soak for about half an hour. When cold add a beaten egg, sugar to -taste, and fill up the dish with cold milk. Put a little grated nutmeg -over the top and bake for two hours in a slow oven.</p> - - -<h4><i>174. Compote of Fresh Fruit</i></h4> - -<p>Put six large pears, cut into quarters, into boiling syrup made of half -a pint of water and two breakfast-cupfuls of white sugar. Let the pears -stew for about twenty minutes and then put in six apples, cut in eight -pieces each, taking care not to core them before cutting but after. -Stew gently for another twenty minutes. Add three bananas cut in rings -just before dishing the compote. Serve cold in a glass dish.</p> - - -<h4><i>175. Rice Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with rice about an inch thick, and add -sugar to taste. Beat an egg<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span> in a cup and add it to the rice, mixing -it all together. Fill the dish with cold milk and add a little grated -nutmeg or several small pieces of lemon peel if preferred. Cook in a -slow oven for not less than two and a half hours.</p> - - -<h4><i>176. Stewed Prunes</i></h4> - -<p>Put half a pound of prunes into a large pudding basin with cold water -and rub them gently with the fingers till thoroughly cleansed. Leave -them in the water for about ten minutes. Then turn the prunes with half -a teacup of powdered sugar into a saucepan and just cover them with hot -water. Cook from thirty to forty minutes. The juice should be perfectly -clear when cooked and the prunes whole.</p> - - -<h4 id="r177"><i>177. Christmas Pudding</i></h4> - -<p>Take one and a half pounds of finely chopped beef suet, one quartern -of best pastry white (<em>not</em> self-raising) flour, three pounds -of stoned raisins, two pounds of sultanas and two pounds of currants -carefully washed and picked, one and a half pounds of the best mixed -peel, ten well-beaten eggs, and four pounds of brown sugar. Stir all -these ingredients together with a pint of ale and half a bottle of -brandy. Stir fairly slack. This should make six very large puddings. -Fill as many buttered pudding<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span> basins as required, taking care that -each basin is full. Tie a wet cloth over each, and boil for twelve -hours. Pour a little neat brandy over the top of each and these -puddings will then keep for six months. Always boil again for four -hours to make hot.</p> - - -<h4><i>178. Coffee Cream</i></h4> - -<p>Let a half pint of freshly made coffee cool thoroughly. Mix three -tablespoonfuls of flour in milk till quite smooth. Turn three eggs well -beaten together into the milk and flour. Add the cold coffee and half a -pint of milk, sugar to taste. Cook as for custard.</p> - - -<h4><i>179. Plums or Damsons for a Tart or as Stewed Fruit</i></h4> - -<p>Carefully look over one pound of plums or damsons, removing any unsound -ones. Put them into an earthenware saucepan with a teacupful of cold -water and two teacupfuls of sugar to the plums or three teacupfuls to -the damsons. Stew for one hour the damsons, or forty minutes the plums.</p> - - -<h4><i>180. Jam Tarts</i></h4> - -<p>A breakfast-cupful and a half of self-raising flour, three ounces -of fresh butter, a well-beaten egg, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span> a little salt. Mix these -ingredients with milk into a stiff paste. Roll it very thin and have -ready a plate greased with hot butter and when cool lay a thin layer of -pastry on the plate, rub a little milk round the rim and spread the jam -over it not too thick. Cut some pastry in thin strips and lay across -like the spokes of a wheel. Bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Be -careful the jam is not too juicy.</p> - - -<h4><i>181. Stewed Rhubarb</i></h4> - -<p>Remove the leaves and cut the other end of the rhubarb crosswise and -skin it. Cut it into pieces of about two inches long. Put it into a -saucepan (either earthenware or enamelled) and allow a small teacupful -of sugar to each three or four sticks of rhubarb. Add half a teacupful -of water, put over a brisk fire for forty minutes, when the rhubarb -should attain a rich red colour. This can be used either as stewed -rhubarb or put into a pie.</p> - - -<h4><i>182. Stewed Gooseberries</i></h4> - -<p>Carefully pick a quart of gooseberries, discarding the unsound ones. -Put them into an earthenware saucepan with a teacupful of cold water -and three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> teacupfuls of sugar. Boil for about an hour, stirring now -and then to prevent them from burning. Serve either as stewed fruit or -for a pie.</p> - - -<h4><i>183. Macaroons</i></h4> - -<p>Take half a pound of almonds peeled and dried in the oven, half a pound -of powdered sugar, three or four whites of eggs, one grated lemon. -Pound the almonds, moistening them from time to time with the beaten -whites of eggs. When they are reduced to a fine paste add the lemon -and sugar; work all perfectly together. Form the macaroons by putting -small pieces the size of a walnut upon a buttered baking tin. Cook in -a moderate oven till they have taken a beautiful brown tint. Let them -cool before taking them off the tin. Pass a thin-bladed knife under -them to remove them from the tin.</p> - - -<h4><i>184. Swiss Roll</i></h4> - -<p>A good sponge powder is the very best and most reliable of all cake -mixtures. Directions for use will be found on every packet and the only -thing that to my mind improves it is the addition of a tablespoonful -of cream after the beaten eggs are mixed to the cake-powder. Nothing -could be easier than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span> the following, and I have never had a failure: -Break two eggs into a large pudding basin, beat well with a fork, then -stir the cake-powder into the eggs quite smoothly. Add the cream. Have -ready the buttered tin, pour the mixture into it. Place in a quick oven -and bake for about ten minutes. Turn on to a sheet of clean white paper -which has been lightly dusted with a little powdered sugar. One packet -of cake mixture and two eggs will make either one nice-sized Swiss Roll -or a complete sponge sandwich.</p> - -<p>It will often be much easier to make a successful cake or light pastry -if the butter and lard are reduced to a cream before being added to -the other ingredients. Put your proportion of butter and lard (half of -each) into your pastry basin. Stir with the <em>hand</em>, one way only, -till it has become the consistency of a thick cream. Mix the rest of -the ingredients for your cake into it and moisten either with milk or -water. Cakes mixed by hand are much more satisfactory than those mixed -with a spoon. One is also much more sure of success if the mixture is -kept very stiff.</p> - - -<h4><i>185. Simple Recipe for a Chocolate Cake</i></h4> - -<p>Take a quarter of a pound best white flour, a quarter of a pound -butter, the same of sifted fine white sugar,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> two ounces of grated -chocolate, and two eggs. Stir the butter in a pastry bowl with the -hand, one way as directed, till the butter is reduced to a smooth -cream. When this is done add the sugar (still stirring the one way). -Have the two eggs well beaten in a cup, stir them into the sugar -and flour, lastly the chocolate powder. Pour the mixture into a -well-buttered cake tin and bake in a moderate oven for an hour.</p> - - -<h4><i>186. Plain Christmas Cake</i></h4> - -<p>Take one pound flour (household, not self-raising), half a pound of -currants which have been carefully washed and dried (this is best done -in a cullender under the tap and rubbed dry on a clean white cloth), -half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, two ounces of candied -lemon peel cut into thin strips, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, -three eggs well beaten, whites and yolks together, and half a pint of -milk, sour will do.</p> - -<p>Place the flour in the pastry bowl, thoroughly mix the baking-powder -into it, rub in the butter, add the sugar and currants and peel, stir -in the eggs, and mix all together with the milk. Butter your cake tin -and line it with a buttered sheet of white cooking paper, bake in a -steady but gentle oven for one and a half hours.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>187. Madeira Cake</i></h4> - -<p>Take a quarter of a pound of household flour, one teaspoonful of -baking-powder, three ounces of butter, three ounces of fine white -sugar, and two eggs. Cream the butter, add first the sugar, then the -flour with the baking-powder, lastly the well-beaten eggs and half a -teacupful of milk. Care should be taken that the mixture is not mixed -too slack. Pour the mixture into a buttered cake tin and bake in a -gentle oven from thirty to forty minutes.</p> - - -<h4><i>188. Glengarry Cake</i></h4> - -<p>Half a pound of best household white flour, two teaspoonfuls of -baking-powder, five ounces of butter, five ounces of powdered sugar, a -quarter of a pound of sultanas carefully washed and stalked. Reduce the -butter to cream in the bowl, add the sugar, flour, and baking-powder, -then the sultanas, mix well with the two beaten eggs, adding a little -milk if required. Place in a well-buttered cake tin, and bake in a -steady oven one and a half hours.</p> - -<p><i>Note.</i> Carraway seeds can be used instead of sultanas if a seed -cake is required and a little sliced candied peel always put on the top -of the cake if desired.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span></p> - - -<h4><i>189. Surrey Cake</i></h4> - -<p>Take three eggs, their weight in flour, powdered sugar, and butter, -half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla or almonds.</p> - -<p>Reduce the butter to cream in the bowl, add the flour and sugar, keep -stirring and beating the mixture without ceasing till it is quite -smooth, add the eggs well beaten. Butter and paper a cake tin, which -should never be more than half full of the cake. Bake in a steady oven -from three-quarters of an hour to an hour.</p> - - -<h4><i>190. Gâteau de Milan</i></h4> - -<p>Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of -a pound of sugar, one whole egg, one yolk, a little salt, a grated rind -of lemon, and a teaspoonful of rum. Place the flour on a pastry board; -form it into a hillock with a hole in the centre; put into this the -butter, sugar, and eggs, lemon rind, beaten egg, and rum. Mix with the -hand with butter and sugar, then the flour and eggs and make all into -a ball. Roll it out to the thickness of little more than a quarter of -an inch, form into little cakes with a cake cutter; arrange them on a -baking-sheet of paper lightly buttered, brush them over lightly with -the yolk of the egg; bake in a steady oven for about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span> fifteen to twenty -minutes. These cakes will keep well for some days if kept in a closed -tin.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Note.</i> It is a golden rule worth remembering that all biscuits or -rusks (also cakes) will keep perfectly crisp if kept in a closed tin. -Cakes, of course, should not be placed under any cover till quite cold.</p> - -<p>The same cake mixture as for Gâteau de Milan may be treated in the -following manner to make quite a different cake.</p> - -<p>Instead of cutting the mixture into small cakes, make two rounds only -of the same size and thickness. Place them on a buttered baking tin, -but do not allow them to touch. From one of these pieces cut a round -out of the centre with a small cake cutter. Bake them in a steady oven -till they are a beautiful light brown colour; let them get cold. Upon -the piece that is not cut in the centre spread a layer of smooth jam, -place the other piece over it, trim the edges to have both exactly the -same size; on this border spread some more jam, then sprinkle with a -little sugar, not finely powdered but in grains. Arrange on a dish and -fill the hole in the centre with a little fruit jelly.</p> - - -<h4><i>191. Tea Cakes</i></h4> - -<p>Take half a pound of flour, six ounces of butter, two yolks of eggs, -one whole egg, one and a half <span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span>ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pint of -cream, and a little salt. Make the paste the same as for the Gâteau -de Milan, let it rest from ten to fifteen minutes. Roll out the paste -about an inch thick. Form into little cakes with a pastry cutter about -two inches round, brush lightly with the yolk of an egg and bake in a -good oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes.</p> - - -<p class="center p0 p2">THE END</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center p0 p4">PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY -<br /> -WOODS AND SONS, <abbr title="limited">LTD.</abbr>, LONDON, N.1 -</p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" /> - -<div class="chapter transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - - -<p>In a few cases, obvious omissions or errors in punctuation were -corrected.</p> - -<p>The recipe for roast lamb is not numbered in the original.</p> - -<p>The recipe numbering in the original skips 91-99.</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_110">Page 110</a>: “be to prepared” changed to “to be prepared”</p> -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A HANDBOOK OF COOKERY FOR A SMALL HOUSE ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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