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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4bbbc2a --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69370 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69370) diff --git a/old/69370-0.txt b/old/69370-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 7cf2cc7..0000000 --- a/old/69370-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5403 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen, by -Janet Ross - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen - or How to cook vegetables - -Author: Janet Ross - -Release Date: November 16, 2022 [eBook #69370] - -Language: English - -Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN -KITCHEN *** - - - - - - _LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN_ - - _OR_ - - _HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES_ - - [Illustration: - - _A.H. Hallam Murray._ - - _The Kitchen Poggio Gherardo._] - - - - - LEAVES - - _from_ - - OUR TUSCAN - KITCHEN - _or_ - How to Cook - Vegetables - - _by_ - JANET ROSS - - LONDON - - JM DENT 29 & 30 BEDFORD - AND CO. 1899 STREET W.C. - - - - - Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to Her Majesty - - - - - _To Mrs. G. F. Watts_ - - - _Dear friend, will you accept this little book? It may - sometimes bring a thought of Italy into your - beautiful Surrey home_ - - - - - PREFACE - - -The innate love of change in man is visible even in the kitchen. Not -so very long ago soup was an exception in English houses--almost a -luxury. A dish of vegetables--as a dish and not an adjunct to meat--was -a still greater rarity; and even now plain-boiled potatoes, peas, -cabbages, etc., are the rule. When we read of the dishes, fearfully and -wonderfully made, in the old Italian _novelle_, we wonder whence the -present Italians got their love of vegetables and maccaroni. - -Sacchetti tells us that in the fourteenth century a baked goose, -stuffed with garlic and quinces, was considered an exquisite dish; and -when the gonfalonier of Florence gave a supper to a famous doctor, he -put before him the stomach of a calf, boiled partridges, and pickled -sardines. Gianfigliazzi’s cook sent up a roasted crane to his master -as a delicacy, says Boccaccio; and a dish of leeks cooked with spices -appears as a special dish in the rules of the chapter of San Lorenzo -when the canons messed together. Old Laschi, author of that delightful -book _L’Osservatore Fiorentino_, moralises on the ancient fashion of -cooking in his pleasant rather prosy way: ‘It would not seem that -the senses should be subjected to fashion; and yet such is the case. -The perfumes, once so pleasing, musk, amber, and benzoin, now excite -convulsions; sweet wines, such as Pisciancio, Verdea, Montalcino, and -others mentioned by Redi in his dithyrambic, are now despised; and -instead of the heavy dishes of olden times, light and elegant ones are -in vogue. Whoever characterised man as a laughing animal ought rather -to have called him a variable and inconstant one.’ - -The dinner which set all Siena laughing for days, given to a favourite -of Pius II. by a Sienese who substituted wild geese for peacocks, after -cutting off their beaks and feet, and coloured his jelly with poisonous -ingredients, forms the subject of one of Pulci’s tales:-- - -‘Meanwhile it was ordered that hands should be washed, and Messer Goro -was seated at the head of the table, and then other courtiers who had -accompanied him; and they ate many tarts of good almond paste as a -beginning. Then was brought to Messer Goro the dish on which were the -peacocks without beaks, and a fellow was told to carve them. He not -being used to such office gave himself vast trouble to pluck them,[1] -but did it with so little grace that he filled the room and all the -table with feathers, and the eyes, the mouth, the nose, and the ears -of Messer Goro, and of them all. They, perceiving that it was from -want of knowledge, held their peace, and took a mouthful here and -there of other dishes so as not to disturb the order of the feast. But -they were always swallowing dry feathers. Falcons and hawks would have -been convenient that evening. When this pest had been removed many -other roasts were brought, but all most highly seasoned with cumin. -Everything would however have been pardoned if at the last an error had -not been committed, which out of sheer folly nearly cost Messer Goro -and those with him their lives. Now you must know that the master of -the house and his councillors, in order to do honour to his guest, had -ordered a dish of jelly. They wanted, as is the fashion in Florence and -elsewhere, to have the arms of the Pope and of Messer Goro with many -ornaments on it; so they used orpiment, white and red lead, verdigris -and other horrors, and set this before Messer Goro as a choice and new -thing. And Messer Goro and his companions ate willingly of it to take -the bitter taste of the cumin and the other strange dishes out of their -mouths, thinking, as is the custom in every decent place, that they -were all coloured with saffron, milk of sweet almonds, the juices of -herbs, and such like. And in the night it was just touch and go that -some of them did not stretch out their legs. Messer Goro especially -suffered much anguish from both head and stomach....’[2] - -[1] Peacocks were skinned, not plucked, before cooking, and the skin -with the feathers was put on to the roasted bird, and the tail opened -out before placing the dish on the table. The ‘fellow’ ought to have -cut the stitches and drawn off the skin, instead of plucking the -feathers. - -[2] See _L’Osservatore Fiorentino_, vol. vi. p. 108. - -A company of Lombard pastrycooks came to Tuscany in the sixteenth -century, and introduced fine pastry into Florence. We find the first -mention of it in Berni’s _Orlando Innamorato_, where it is mentioned -among the choice viands. Laschi says, ‘the epoch of Charles V. is -the greatest of modern times, for the culture of the spirit induced -the culture of the body.’ But he does not mention vegetables or herbs -at all. For them we must go back to the ancients. Bitterly did the -Israelites, when wandering in the desert, regret ‘the cucumbers and -the melons we did eat in Egypt’; though old Gerarde says, ‘they yield -to the body a cold and moist nourishment, and that very little, and -the same not good.’ Gerarde is however hard to please, for he says -of egg-plants, under the old English name of Raging or Mad Apples, -‘doubtless these apples have a mischievous qualitie, the use whereof is -utterly to be forsaken.’ - -Fennel, dedicated to St. John, was believed to make the lean fat and -to give the weak strength, while the root pounded with honey was -considered a remedy against the bites of mad dogs. If lettuce be eaten -after dinner it cures drunkenness; but Pope says:-- - - If your wish be rest, - Lettuce and cowslip wine, _probatum est_. - -Sorrel is under the influence of Venus, and Gerarde declares that also -‘the carrot serveth for love matters; and Orpheus, as Pliny writeth, -said that the use hereof winneth love.’ Flowers of rosemary, rue, sage, -marjoram, fennel, and quince preserve youth; worn over the heart they -give gaiety. Rosemary is an herb of the sun, while Venus first raised -sweet marjoram, therefore young married couples are crowned with it in -Greece. While - - ‘He that eats sage in May - Shall live for aye.’[3] - -[3] For interesting information about plants see _Plant Lore, Legends, -and Lyrics_, by R. Folkard, Jun. Sampson Low, Marston, Searle and -Rivington, London, 1884. - -Sweet basil is often worn by the Italian maidens in their bosoms, as it -is supposed to engender sympathy, and borage makes men merry and joyful. - -For years English friends have begged recipes for cooking vegetables in -the Italian fashion, so I have written down many of the following from -the dictation of our good Giuseppe Volpi, whose portrait, by Mr. A. H. -Hallam Murray, adorns this little book, and who has been known to our -friends for over thirty years. - -I must also acknowledge, with thanks, the courtesy of Sigri. Fratelli -Ingegnoli of Milan, who have permitted me to use and translate what I -needed from their excellent little book _Come si Cucinano i Legumi_. - - JANET ROSS. - - POGGIO GHERARDO, - FLORENCE. - - - - - CONTENTS - - - PAGE - - Preface vii-xiii - - Introduction 1-4 - - Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’ 5 - - ” ” (_maigre_) 5 - - ” ‘Farciti’ 6 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 7 - - ” ‘alla Francese’ 7 - - ” ‘Fritti.’ No. 1 7 - - ” ” No. 2 8 - - ” ‘alla Graticola’ 8 - - ” ‘all’ Italiana’ 9 - - ” ‘alla Lionese’ 9 - - ” ‘alla Milanese’ 9 - - ” ‘alla Spagnuola’ 10 - - ” ‘al Vapore’ 10 - - Asparagus ‘alla Borghese’ 11 - - ” ‘alla Casalinga’ 11 - - ” cold 11 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 12 - - ” ‘Fritto’ 12 - - ” ‘ai Gamberi’ 13 - - Asparagus ‘in Istufato’ 13 - - ” tips ‘all’ Italiana’ 13 - - ” ‘all’ Olandese’ 14 - - ” ‘alla Parmigiana’ 14 - - ” ‘Perlate’ 14 - - ” tips ‘alla Suprema’ 15 - - ” on Toast. No. 1 15 - - ” ” No. 2 16 - - ” ‘alla Wilhelmina’ 16 - - Beans (Broad) ‘al Burro’ 17 - - ” ” ‘alla Romana’ 17 - - ” ” ‘alla Turca’ 18 - - ” ” ‘al Vino’ 18 - - ” (French) ‘al Burro’ 18 - - ” ” ‘alla Crema.’ No. 1 19 - - ” ” ” No. 2 19 - - ” ” ‘allo Zabajone’ 19 - - ” (Haricots) ‘alla Bruna’ 20 - - ” ” Croquettes of 20 - - ” ” ‘alla Fiorentina’ 21 - - ” ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’ 21 - - ” ” ‘alla Milanese’ 21 - - ” ” ‘alla Polenta’ 22 - - ” ” ‘Purée alla Brétonne’ 22 - - ” ” ‘alla Romana’ 22 - - ” ” ‘sautés’ 23 - - ” (Lima) ‘alla Crema’ 23 - - ” (Dwarf Lima) ‘alla Portugese’ 23 - - ” (Scarlet Runners) ‘alla Panna’ 24 - - Beet Leaves boiled 24 - - ” ‘Gnocchi’ 24 - - Beetroot (How to boil) 25 - - ” ‘alla Panna’ 25 - - ” and Potatoes 26 - - Broccoli ‘alla Crema’ 26 - - ” ‘alla Parmigiana’ 27 - - ” with White Sauce 27 - - Brussels Sprouts ‘alla Crema’ 28 - - ” ” ‘al Limone’ 28 - - ” ” ‘sautés’ 28 - - Cabbage (How to boil) 29 - - ” ‘farcito all’ Americana’ 29 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 30 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 30 - - ” ‘Fritto’ 31 - - ” ‘all’ Uovo’ 31 - - ” ‘Pasticciato’ 31 - - ” ‘in Stufato’ 32 - - ” (Red) ‘alla Fiamminga’ 32 - - ” ” ‘alla Tedesca’ 32 - - Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 1 33 - - ” ” No. 2 33 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 34 - - Cardoons ‘al Bianco’ 34 - - ” ‘alla Milanese’ 35 - - Carrots ‘all’ Aceto’ 35 - - ” ‘alla Béchamel’ 35 - - ” ‘alla Casalinga’ 36 - - ” ‘alla Panna’ 36 - - ” ‘Sautées’ 37 - - ” ‘in Stufato’ 37 - - ” ‘allo Zucchero’ 38 - - Cauliflower ‘al Borghese’ 38 - - ” ‘al Burro’ 39 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 39 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 39 - - ” ‘al Fritto’ 40 - - ” ‘al Gratin’ 40 - - ” ‘alla Piemontese’ 41 - - ” ‘in Stufato’ 41 - - Celery ‘alla Crema’ 41 - - ” ‘al Fritto’ 42 - - ” ‘all’ Italiana’ 42 - - ” ‘alla Parmigiana’ 43 - - ” ‘al Pomidoro’ 43 - - ” stewed 43 - - Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel’ 44 - - ” ‘alla Comasca’ 44 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 44 - - ” ‘Farciti’ 45 - - ” ‘in Istufato’ 45 - - ” ‘alla Panna’ 46 - - ” ‘alla Spagnuola’ 46 - - Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana’ 46 - - ” ‘all’ Uova’ 47 - - Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite’ 47 - - ” ” ‘al Forno’ 48 - - ” ” ‘Fritto’ 48 - - ” ” ‘alla Griglia’ 48 - - ” ” ‘Sauté’ 49 - - Flan of Celery 49 - - ” Potatoes 49 - - ” Vegetables 50 - - Fritto Misto 50 - - ” of Vegetables 51 - - Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco’ 51 - - ” ” in Purée 52 - - Leeks ‘alla Casalinga’ 52 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 53 - - ” ‘alla Salza Bianca’ 53 - - Lentils ‘alla Corona’ 53 - - ” ‘in Istufato’ 54 - - ” ‘alla Provenzale’ 54 - - ” ‘Purée’ 55 - - ” ‘al Riso’ 55 - - Lettuce ‘Farcite’ 55 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 56 - - ” ‘alla Spagnuola’ 56 - - - MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES - - Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel’ 57 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 57 - - ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1 58 - - ” ” No. 2 58 - - ” ” No. 3 58 - - ” ‘au Gratin’ 59 - - ” ‘all’ Italiana’ 59 - - ” ‘al Latte’ 60 - - ” ‘alla Napolitana’ 60 - - ” ‘alla Quaresima’ 61 - - ” ‘alla Semplice’ 61 - - ” ‘alla Siciliana’ 61 - - ” ‘Timbale alla Milanese’ 62 - - ” ‘Timbale alla Napolitana’ 63 - - - OTHER PASTES - - Agnelotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’ 63 - - Crescioni 64 - - Gnocchi ‘alla Romana’ 65 - - ” of Semolina 65 - - Pappardelle with Hare 66 - - Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe’ 66 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 67 - - ” ‘all’ Italiana’ 67 - - ” ‘alla Napolitana’ 68 - - ” ‘Timbaletti di’ 68 - - Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio’ 69 - - Tagliatelle with Ham 69 - - ” ‘alla Romagnola’ 70 - - ” with Sausages 70 - - Tortelli 71 - - Macedoine of Vegetables 71 - - Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) ‘al Burro’ 72 - - ” (Porcini) ‘alla Casalinga’ 72 - - ” (Pratajuoli) ‘alla Crema’ 72 - - ” (Porcini) ‘alla Francese’ 73 - - ” ” Fried. No. 1 73 - - ” ” ” No. 2 74 - - ” ” Grilled 74 - - ” ” ‘all’ Intingolo’ 74 - - ” (Prugnuoli) ‘alla Spagnuola’ 75 - - ” (Dormienti) ‘al Sugo’ 75 - - ” (Pratajuoli) on Toast 76 - - ” (Porcini) with Tomato Sauce 76 - - ” (Ovoli) ‘Trippati’ 76 - - Onions ‘Farcite’ 77 - - ” ‘Fried’ 77 - - ” ‘Glacés’ 77 - - ” Small White 78 - - ” ‘in Stufato’ 78 - - Parsnips ‘alla Crema’ 79 - - ” ‘al Forno’ 79 - - ” ‘Fritte’ 80 - - ” ‘Sautés’ 80 - - Peas ‘all’ Antica’ 80 - - ” ‘alla Borghese’ 81 - - ” ‘al Burro’ 81 - - ” ‘alla Consommé’ 81 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 81 - - ” ‘alla Francese.’ No. 1 82 - - ” ” ” No. 2 82 - - ” ‘al Buon Gusto’ 83 - - ” ‘all’ Inglese’ 83 - - Pea Omelette 83 - - Pease-pudding 84 - - Peas in their Pods 85 - - ” ‘allo Stufato’ 85 - - ” ‘allo Zucchero’ 85 - - Polenta Dabs 86 - - ” ‘alla Parmigiana’ 86 - - ” with Sausages 86 - - Potatoes boiled 87 - - ” ‘alla Borghese’ 87 - - ” ‘alla Campagnuola’ 87 - - ” ‘in Casseruola’ 88 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 88 - - ” Croquettes. No. 1 88 - - ” ” No. 2 89 - - ” ‘Farcite’ 89 - - ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1 90 - - ” ” No. 2 90 - - ” ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette) 90 - - ” ‘alla Semplicità’ 91 - - ” ‘Fritti alla Francese’ 91 - - Potatoes ‘in Frittura’ 91 - - Potato ‘Gnocchi’ 92 - - Potatoes ‘all’ Italiana’ 92 - - ” ‘alla Gran Duchessa’ 93 - - ” ‘alla Lionese’ 93 - - ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’ 94 - - ” ‘all’ Olandese’ 94 - - ” ‘alla Panna’ 94 - - Potato Pudding 95 - - ” ” with Mushrooms 95 - - Potatoes ‘in Ragout’ 96 - - ” ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted) 96 - - ” ‘Sautées’ 97 - - ” ‘in Stufato’ 97 - - ” ‘Tartufate’ 97 - - ” ‘all’ Umido’ 98 - - - Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina’ 98 - - ” ‘Fritti’ 98 - - Pumpkin Pudding 99 - - Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ No. 1 99 - - ” ” (_Maigre_). No. 2 100 - - - Rice (How to Cook) 100 - - ” ‘alla Casalinga’ 101 - - ” Croquettes 101 - - ” with Tomatoes. No. 1 102 - - ” ” ” No. 2 103 - - ” with Prawns 103 - - ” with Quails 104 - - ” ‘alla Ristori’ 104 - - Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 1 104 - - ” ” No. 2 105 - - ” with Peas 105 - - ” ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’ 106 - - - SALADS - - Artichoke Salad 106 - - Beetroot Salad 107 - - Broccoli Salad 107 - - Cabbage Salad 107 - - ‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad 107 - - Cauliflower Salad 108 - - Celery Salad 108 - - Cucumber and Tomato Salad 108 - - ‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad 109 - - French Beans Salad 109 - - ‘All’ Italiana’ Salad 109 - - Lettuce Salad 109 - - ” ” ‘alla Francese’ 110 - - ” ” with Veal (or Fish) 110 - - ‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad 111 - - ‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad 111 - - Potato Salad. No. 1 111 - - ” ” No. 2 112 - - ” ” No. 3 112 - - ” ” No. 4 113 - - ‘Alla Russa’ Salad 113 - - Spanish Onion Salad 113 - - Summer Salad. No. 1 114 - - ” ” No. 2 114 - - Tomato Salad. No. 1 114 - - ” ” No. 2 115 - - ” ” No. 3 115 - - ” ” No. 4 115 - - ” ” No. 5 116 - - ” Jelly Salad 116 - - Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of) 117 - - Watercress Salad 117 - - - SAUCES - - Roux for Sauces 117 - - Agro Dolce Sauce 118 - - Bearnese Sauce 118 - - Béchamel Sauce. No. 1 119 - - ” ” No. 2 119 - - ” ” No. 3 119 - - ” ” (_Maigre_) No. 4 120 - - Broccoli (Sauce for) 120 - - Caper Sauce 121 - - ” ” ‘alla Genovese’ 121 - - ” ” ‘alla Milanese’ 121 - - ” ” (Cold) 122 - - Butter Sauce. No. 1 122 - - ” ” No. 2 (Melted Butter) 122 - - Francese Sauce 123 - - Lombarda Sauce 123 - - Mayonnaise Sauce 123 - - ” ” ‘alla Monte Bianco’ 124 - - ” ” ‘alla Ravigote’ 124 - - Olandese Sauce 124 - - ‘Alla Panna’ Sauce 125 - - Suprema Sauce. No. 1 125 - - ” ” No. 2 125 - - Tartara Sauce. No. 1 126 - - ” ” No. 2 126 - - Tomato Sauce. No. 1 126 - - ” ” No. 2 127 - - Ve lutata Sauce 127 - - Sorrel Purée 128 - - ” ” (_Maigre_) 128 - - ” ” Stewed 128 - - - SOUPS - - Artichoke Soup 128 - - ” ” (Purée) 129 - - Asparagus Soup 129 - - Carrot Soup 130 - - Chestnut Soup 130 - - Lentil Soup. No. 1 130 - - ” ” No. 2 131 - - Lettuce Soup 131 - - Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale’ 132 - - ” ” ‘alla Romana’ 132 - - Pumpkin Soup. No. 1 132 - - ” ” No. 2 133 - - Onion Soup. No. 1 133 - - ” ” ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ No. 2 134 - - Palestine Soup 134 - - Pea Soup 134 - - Polentina ‘alla Veneziana’ 135 - - Sorrel Soup 135 - - Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese’ 135 - - Tomato Soup. No. 1 136 - - ” ” (_Maigre_) No. 2 136 - - Turnip Soup 137 - - Vegetable Soup (Mixed) 137 - - Vegetable and Cream Soup 137 - - - Spinach ‘al Burro’ 138 - - ” ‘alla Crema’ 138 - - ” Croquettes 138 - - ” ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina’ 139 - - ” Fried 139 - - ” Pudding with Mushrooms 140 - - ” ‘in Riccioli’ 140 - - ” Soufflé 141 - - - Tomatoes Broiled 141 - - ” ‘in Conchiglia’ 142 - - ” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1 142 - - ” ” No. 2 142 - - ” ” No. 3 143 - - ” ‘Fritti’ 143 - - ” ‘alla Graticola’ 144 - - ” Iced 144 - - ” ‘all’ Indiana’ 144 - - ” ‘al Pane’ 144 - - ” Pudding 145 - - Tomatoes in Purée 145 - - ” ‘Ripieni’ 146 - - ” ‘al Riso’ 146 - - ” Stewed 146 - - ” ‘in Umido’ 147 - - ” ‘con Uova’ 147 - - Truffles in Champagne 147 - - ” and Cheese 148 - - ” Maigre 148 - - ” in Omelette 148 - - ” ‘alla Panna’ 149 - - ” ‘Sautés’ 149 - - ” Stewed 150 - - ” ‘sul tovagliolo’ 150 - - - - - ITALIAN RECIPES - - - - - INTRODUCTION - - _About the cooking of Vegetables._ - - -Vegetables should be well washed in cold water to remove insects and -dust; if not fresh gathered, leave them some time in cold water, -and remember that they take longer to cook than fresh ones. Green -vegetables must be put into salted water (one tablespoonful of salt to -every two quarts of water) and rapidly cooked over a brisk fire in an -open sauce-pan until they are tender. All green vegetables should be -removed from the water as soon as cooked, and be well drained before -adding the seasoning. - - - _About Sauces._ - -So much depends on sauces that only the best ingredients should be used -in making them. Rancid or impure oil or bad butter will ruin sauces -and salads. Both butter and oil should always be tasted before buying, -as good cookery is impossible unless they are perfectly fresh and good -in every way; butter must be added to sauces in small bits, or it will -form a greasy line. To skim sauces, take the sauce-pan off the fire -and put in a teaspoonful of cold water, which will make the grease -rise. Remember that wine increases the taste of salt, so when wine is -used in a sauce put in very little salt until after the wine has been -added. - - - _About Eggs._ - -Eggs must be _quite_ fresh, if they taste of straw the sauce will be -spoiled. They should therefore be broken one at a time into a saucer -and examined before using. A pinch of salt added to the whites of eggs -makes them whisk better, and none of the yolk must be allowed to get -mixed in. - - - _About Spices._ - -The following is a good recipe for the spices so necessary in cooking: -Half an ounce of cloves, two ounces of nutmeg, half an ounce of sweet -basil, half an ounce of white pepper, two ounces of cinnamon, one -quarter of an ounce of dried bay leaves, half an ounce of thyme. Pound -well together, then pass through a sieve, and put them into a bottle, -or box, hermetically closed to preserve the perfume. - - - _About a Bouquet._ - -Take one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, two cloves, and one stalk of -well-washed celery, place round these six sprigs of parsley, fold and -tie them so that the cloves, etc., cannot fall out. - - - _About Onion Juice._ - -Onion juice is obtained by grating an onion on a coarse grater, after -peeling it. Press hard, and each stroke will give one drop of juice. - - - _About Maccaroni and Spaghetti Paste._ - -For every quarter of a pound of flour use one egg and two -tablespoonfuls of warm salted water. Take as much flour as needful, -make a hole in the centre, and put in the water and the eggs. Beat them -up with a spoon, mixing the flour in gradually, then knead well. Roll -the paste into very thin sheets, and place them on a clean cloth to dry -for half an hour. This paste will not keep more than one, or one and a -half days, and must always be put into boiling water or broth to cook. -If soaked before cooking the flavour is spoiled. - - - _About blanching Maccaroni and Spaghetti._ - -Put an earthenware pot, filled with water, on the fire, add two -tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil. Put in three-quarters of a pound of -fresh maccaroni, twisting it round carefully so as not to break it. -Boil for seventeen minutes, then remove from the fire; drain, and put -it in cold water; drain again, and it is ready for use. Spaghetti are -blanched the same way. - - - _About Croûtons._ - -To make croûtons, cut bread into whatever shape you want. Take off the -crust, dip the pieces into melted butter, and toast in the oven, turn -often in order to colour evenly, or fry them in boiling oil or fat. -They must be crisp and of a light brown colour. - - - _About a Bain-Marie._ - -A Bain-Marie is a large copper pan placed on the fire, and containing -boiling water in which are put smaller pans with anything to be kept -hot, or cooked without boiling. Milk is better cooked in Bain-Marie, -than in a sauce-pan on the fire. - - - - - RECIPES - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul.’_ - -Clean and cut straight the under leaves of three large French -artichokes, boil them sufficiently to be able to take out the chokes, -and put them in cold water for five minutes. Drain thoroughly, then -fill the hole left by the choke with forcemeat made of half an ounce -of minced salt pork, two shallots, six mushrooms minced, a teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg, mixed well -together. Tie up the artichokes with string, heat three tablespoonfuls -of good olive oil in a pan, and brown them well on both sides. Then -place your artichokes in a sauté-pan, and put a small slice of fresh -pork, or a bit of good butter, on the top of each; add a tumbler of -broth, bake for forty minutes in oven, then place on a hot dish, and -serve, pouring the sauce in the pan over them. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’ (maigre)._ - -Parboil three fine French artichokes for three minutes, drain, pare -the tips and the bottoms, and remove the chokes. Then place them in a -sauce-pan with a tablespoonful of fresh butter, a carrot and an onion -sliced up, and very little salt. Cook a shallot (minced up) with a -tablespoonful of butter for three minutes (being careful not to let -it brown), add ten minced mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped-up -parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped-up chervil, and a little salt and -pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring often. Stuff the artichokes -with this, and put a whole mushroom on the top of each artichoke. Bake -in a hot oven, adding a wine-glassful of white wine and a tumbler of -vegetable soup; close the pan and cook for forty minutes. Add a quarter -of a pint of sauce ‘Vellutata’ (see Sauces, p. 127) to the sauce of the -artichokes, heat, but do not boil; strain, and serve in a sauce-boat -separately. - - -_Artichokes ‘Farciti.’_ - -Boil and drain twelve young artichokes. Chop up four ounces of boiled -ham and one pound of chicken-meat fine, add two tablespoonfuls of -cream, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, -and some grated nutmeg. Fill each artichoke with this compound, put -into a well-buttered frying-pan, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a -hot oven. Serve hot with ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125). - - -_Artichokes ‘al Forno.’_ - -Boil eight or ten young artichokes, then dry them well. Put a small -piece of onion on the top of each artichoke, wrap each in a slice of -ham, and stand them upright in a sauce-pan. In another sauce-pan make -your stuffings: four ounces of fine white lard cut up small, a quart -of broth, six mushrooms and a little parsley chopped up fine. Boil, -and when cooked pour this compound into each artichoke, put them into -the oven (not too hot) for about three-quarters of an hour. Before -serving be careful to remove any ham that has remained attached to the -artichokes, and pour some sauce ‘Olandese’ (see Sauces, p. 124) over -them. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Francese.’_ - -Cut your artichokes into four or eight pieces according to their size, -remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and boil. Then sprinkle them -with lemon, and, to prevent them from turning brown, put them into hot -water with a good deal of vinegar. Drain well before serving, and after -putting them on a dish, pour a sauce made of pepper, salt, fine olive -oil, and a little vinegar over them, and serve hot. - - -_Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ No. 1._ - -Wash your artichokes and cut them into slices. When drained put them -into an earthen pot with some salt, pepper, fine olive oil, and a few -drops of vinegar. Put two yolks of eggs, one whole egg, a little water, -and some fine olive oil, into a frying-pan, and mix well together. -Throw the slices of artichoke into the frying-pan, stirring them well. -When they have taken a good colour remove them from the fire, strain -them, put them on a napkin in a dish, garnish with fried parsley and -serve very hot. - - -_Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ No. 2._ - -Cut eight or ten young artichokes into slices lengthways, take out -the chokes and cut off the ends of the leaves, and throw them into -vinegar and water; drain and dip them in the following batter:--two -tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolk of one egg, one spoonful of good -olive oil, and two tablespoonfuls of milk. Stir well; add one -tablespoonful of brandy (or water), pepper and salt to taste, and let -it stand for some hours. Before using whisk two whites of egg to a -stiff froth and beat it in. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Graticola.’_ - -Wash your artichokes well, remove the stalks, the hard leaves, and the -points of the leaves; cut them in halves, and cook them on a gridiron. -Then sprinkle them with salt, some fine olive oil, and a little -pepper, and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them just before -serving up hot. - - -_Artichokes ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Clean the artichokes and remove the hard outside leaves. Boil them -well and leave them to drain. Arrange them on a dish and pour a sauce -‘Tartara, No. 1’ (see Sauces, p. 126) over them. Serve up quickly. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Lionese.’_ - -Remove the stalk and the hard leaves, cut your artichoke into pieces, -then wash and drain them. Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan well, put in -the pieces of artichoke, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and cook -them with a slow fire above and below until they take a golden colour. -When quite cooked, arrange them on a dish, and pour some fried fresh -butter over them, into which a pinch of sugar and three tablespoonfuls -of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) has been put. Serve up very hot. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Milanese.’_ - -Put your boiled artichokes into an earthenware pot after greasing it -well with fresh butter, then place a bit of butter in the centre of -each artichoke and sprinkle them with some finely grated Parmesan -cheese of the best quality. Cover the pot and cook over a slow fire, -taking care that the artichokes should not boil for too long. Just -before serving up, pour some more melted butter over them. - - -_Artichokes ‘alla Spagnuola.’_ - -Remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and wash three (or more) -artichokes well and cut them into pieces. Boil, then drain, put them -into a sauce-pan with some pepper, five tablespoonfuls of sauce -‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125), five of Consommé, and then put them on -the fire for half an hour. Boil again for half an hour with fire above -and below, before serving them up hot. - - -_Artichokes ‘al Vapore.’_ - -Remove the hard outside leaves of the artichokes, but leave a little -of the stalk. Then place them upright in a small sauce-pan with a -little water which must not quite cover the artichokes. Open out the -artichokes and pour into the centre of each a sauce made of pepper, -salt, and fine olive oil. Then cover the sauce-pan and be careful to -boil the water well, so as to steam the artichokes thoroughly. - -N.B.--Artichokes are eaten when barely half-grown in Italy. - - * * * * * - - -_Asparagus ‘alla Borghese.’_ - -Take a bundle of asparagus, scrape the white of each stalk lightly, and -put them into cold water. Then tie them in bundles of twenty-five (or, -if very large, of twelve or fifteen), keep the heads together, and cut -the ends of one length. Cook them quickly for fifteen minutes in one -gallon of boiling water in which two ounces of salt has been put. Dish -them up on a piece of toast, serve very hot, with melted fresh butter, -or sauce ‘Alla Panna,’ or ‘All’ Olandese’ (see Sauces, pp. 124, 125). - - -_Asparagus ‘alla Casalinga.’_ - -Take four pounds of asparagus and cook the green part in boiling salted -water. Then drain, and put the asparagus into a baking-dish with four -ounces of fresh butter, sprinkle with grated cheese, salt and pepper to -taste, brown slightly, garnish with eggs fried in butter, and serve hot. - - -_Asparagus, cold._ - -Cut the ends of your asparagus so as to have them of equal length, and -boil in salted water. When cold lay them on a dish, and, just before -serving, pour over them a sauce made of good olive oil, white wine -vinegar, salt, and pepper. (If preferred, a white sauce can be used -instead of oil and vinegar.) - - -_Asparagus ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Take the heads only of the asparagus (two or three pounds as required) -and put them into boiling water with a little salt. Boil for about -fifteen minutes, and prepare meanwhile some square pieces of roll or -white bread, without the crust. Scoop out the centre of each piece and -put in a bit of butter, then fry (or bake) until the bread turns a good -yellow colour. After draining the heads of the asparagus place them in -the holes in the bread, taking care to keep them hot. Then boil half a -pint of milk, add four yolks of eggs, and stir till solid. Take it off -the fire, add a little butter, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, pour -over the asparagus and bread, and serve up hot. - - -_Asparagus ‘Fritto.’_ - -Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus, boil them in slightly salted -water for about fifteen minutes, and then strain. Put half a tumbler -of cream, in which the yolk of an egg and two ounces of butter have -been well beaten up, into a frying-pan, add a tablespoonful of sugar, -salt and pepper to taste, and stir slowly over the fire for five or six -minutes. Then fry your asparagus heads in it and serve very hot. - - -_Asparagus ‘ai Gamberi.’_ - -Cut the tender heads of the asparagus in equal lengths and boil them, -then pickle them in good olive oil, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. -Stick a hunch of bread into the centre of a dish, cover it with sauce -‘Mayonnaise,’ and place the asparagus heads (over which you have just -squeezed some lemon juice) round and over it. Garnish the dish with -sauce ‘Mayonnaise’ (see Sauces, p. 123) and crayfish tails, and serve. -Some jelly will be an addition. - - -_Asparagus ‘in Istufato.’_ - -Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus and wash them well in cold -salted water. Strain, and when dry put them into a sauce-pan with a -tablespoonful of flour, four ounces of butter, half a pint of cream (or -milk), and a little salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until they -begin to boil, then remove, and serve up hot. - - -_Asparagus tips ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Prepare about 200 asparagus tips two or two and a half inches long, -half cook, and then drain them. Put them in a baking-pan with fresh -butter and strong gravy, taking care that they should be well glacées. -Cook fifteen or eighteen eggs for five minutes, shell them and keep -them warm in hot water. Pile a stiff purée of potatoes dome-shaped on -a dish, arrange your asparagus heads (pointing upwards) round it, heat -the dish well, and stand your eggs upright all round, pouring a white -sauce over them. Serve very hot. - - -_Asparagus ‘all’ Olandese.’_ - -Take a bunch of asparagus and scrape the stalks well. Cut them of equal -length and put them into boiling salted water (if they are not all of -the same size, put the biggest in first, or the small ones will be too -much cooked) and boil fast. Drain well, and place them on a napkin in a -dish, with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see Sauces, p. 124) in a sauce-boat apart. - - -_Asparagus ‘alla Parmigiana.’_ - -Scrape and boil your asparagus and place them on a dish, pour over them -a sauce of melted fresh butter mixed with strong gravy, some grated -Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper; then powder them with a little -grated Parmesan cheese, pour some more melted butter over them, colour -with the salamander and serve immediately. - - -_Asparagus ‘Perlate.’_ - -Cut the heads of a bunch of asparagus into small pieces like peas, and -put them into salted boiling water. When almost cooked, drain, and put -them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and a little -powdered sugar, sprinkle well with flour, and pour a little soup, or -sauce ‘Vellutata’ over them (see Sauces, p. 127). When thoroughly -cooked, mix two or three well-beaten-up yolks of eggs with them, and -serve very hot. - - -_Asparagus tips ‘alla Suprema.’_ - -Choose asparagus of about the same size, break off the tenderest part -with your fingers, and cut them in small bits, cooking the tips last. -Put them into salted boiling water, then drain, and place them in a -baking-pan with melted fresh butter, keep them a few minutes on the -fire, add some salt, a little gravy, fresh butter and lemon juice. -Serve hot. - - -_Asparagus on Toast. No. 1._ - -Wash the asparagus well and scrape the stalks, then tie in bunches and -put them into an earthenware pot of boiling water slightly salted; boil -for about twenty minutes, until they are tender but not over-done, cut -some toasted bread into square pieces (without the crust), and put a -bit of butter on each piece. When the asparagus is cooked and drained, -untie the bunches and place it on the toast, taking care to lay the -heads all the same way. Then melt four ounces of fresh butter with -a little flour in a frying-pan, and add a pinch of salt and pepper. -Serve the sauce separately, or a sauce ‘Olandese’ if better liked (see -Sauces, p. 124). - - -_Asparagus on Toast. No. 2._ - -Cut off the bottom of the stalks of a bunch of asparagus to make them -even, and put them into a pan of cold water till near dinner-time. Then -put the bunch in boiling water in which a pinch of soda, the weight of -a pea, has been dissolved. Boil a quarter of an hour, then drain, cut -the twine and serve. Have the buttered toast ready, place the white -ends of the asparagus on it and pour one tablespoonful of melted butter -over the green heads in the dish. - - -_Asparagus ‘alla Wilhelmina.’_ - -Wash and clean a bunch of asparagus and cook in boiling water slightly -salted. When cooked and dried, arrange them in a dish, one-half on one -side, one-half on the other, so that the heads meet in the middle. -Melt four ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, add a little flour -and some good broth, mix well together and boil, then add one or two -bay leaves, some chopped parsley and onion, salt and pepper to taste, -and three well-beaten-up yolks of eggs. Boil for five minutes, add a -little lemon juice, pour the sauce over the asparagus, and serve up -very hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Beans (Broad) ‘al Burro.’_ - -Shell one quart of fresh young broad beans and put them in cold water. -Put two quarts of water in a sauce-pan and add a slice of ham, a stick -of celery, a bunch of parsley, three cloves, twenty peppercorns, and -one bay leaf. Boil for a quarter of an hour, then take out the ham, -etc., and put in the beans. Strain as soon as they are tender, add -four ounces of fresh butter and put them on the fire for a few minutes -before serving. - - -_Beans (Broad) ‘alla Romana.’_ - -Chop up one small onion and four or five sage leaves, and fry brown in -butter. Put in a quart of young shelled broad beans, cover them with -boiling water and stew over a very slow fire for twenty minutes, add -the strained juice of six tomatoes (or some tomato conserve), with salt -and pepper to taste. Add boiling water whenever necessary, and stir -often, to prevent the beans from sticking to the sauce-pan. Stew for -twenty or twenty-five minutes, and serve very hot. - - -_Beans (Broad) ‘alla Turca.’_ - -Take a quart of young broad bean pods, about two inches long, cut them -in half and put them in cold water. Then cook them in a sauce-pan -with two quarts of boiling water. Drain, and again put them in cold -water. Mince some ham and fry it with a little butter in a sauce-pan, -throw your beans in, toss, and heat them for ten minutes. Add three -tablespoonfuls good stock before serving up hot. - -_Beans (Broad) ‘al Vino.’_ - -Take quite young shelled broad beans and stew them in a sauce-pan with -a little browned onion, some ham, butter, sweet herbs, and flour; -moisten well with broth, add a quarter of a pint of sweet white wine, -and three spoonfuls of sugar. Serve hot. - - -_Beans (French) ‘al Burro.’_ - -Remove the strings and the ends from one quart of French beans and -cut them into pieces about an inch long. Put them into cold water for -twenty or thirty minutes, then dry, and throw them into a sauce-pan of -boiling water with some salt and butter. Cook slowly for about half an -hour (according to the age of the beans), then place them in a dish, -adding some fresh butter, salt and pepper. Serve up hot. - - -_Beans (French) ‘alla Crema.’ No. 1._ - -Boil one quart of French beans slowly until nearly tender; then dry, -and put them to cook in fresh butter. Mix a teacupful of cream, an egg, -some grated cheese, and some allspice well together in a sauce-pan, -then add some lemon juice, a little white wine vinegar, and boil. Pour -this sauce over the beans, mix well, and serve up hot. - - -_Beans (French) ‘alla Crema.’ No. 2._ - -Break off both ends and string two quarts of young fresh French beans, -wash in cold water, and drain. Put them into salted boiling water and -cook for five minutes, stirring them well. Season with a teaspoonful of -salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one or two chives, and some sprigs -of parsley (to be taken out before serving); add half a tea-cup of -fresh cream (or milk), and two yolks of eggs, heat for five minutes, -but do not boil. A tablespoonful of pounded sugar is an agreeable -addition. - - -_Beans (French) ‘allo Zabajone.’_ - -Clean and remove the strings from two quarts of French beans and put -them into cold water; then boil and strain, and lay them in a dish. -Put two yolks of eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of white wine -vinegar, and two of water, into a sauce-pan on a slow fire, mix and -heat, but do not allow it to boil. Pour the sauce over the beans, and -serve hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Bruna.’_ - -Put a quart of haricot beans into a sauce-pan of salted boiling water, -and boil for about half an hour. When cooked brown, put four ounces of -butter in a frying-pan, add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, and -fry them well together. Then add some broth, stir well, and add half an -onion minced up with salt and pepper. Dry the beans, put them in the -sauce, boil all together for ten minutes, and serve hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots), Croquettes of._ - -Put a quart of small white haricot beans to soak in tepid water all -night long; dry, put them in cold water, and boil over a slow fire -for about an hour. Drain and dry them again, and put into boiling -water for another hour. Pass them through a sieve and put them in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of white -wine vinegar, one of balm-mint, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well -together, cook, and let cool. Then roll up into balls (or croquets), -dip them into the yolk of an egg, cover them with finely grated -bread-crumbs, and fry with good fresh butter. Serve up very hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Fiorentina.’_ - -Half-boil a quart of haricot beans in salted water, strain, and put -them into a sauce-pan with some fried, browned butter in it. Mix, then -drain off the butter, and add the following sauce: Melt four ounces of -fresh butter, skim it carefully, add some flour and mix well, add some -broth and stir until it is of the consistency of a sauce, and leave it -to boil. Then pass the sauce through a sieve, put it back on the fire, -and stir to prevent its sticking to the sauce-pan, add two yolks of -eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and some finely chopped-up parsley. -Pour the sauce over the beans before serving up hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel.’_ - -Put some young, green, shelled haricot beans into boiling water, when -half-cooked add a pinch of salt, and a little butter. Take them out, -drain, and put them at once into a sauce-pan with butter, chopped -parsley, salt, pepper, and some lemon juice. Toss them well, and serve -up very hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Milanese.’_ - -Take young, green haricot beans and throw them in boiling water. When -half-cooked add a little salt and some butter, and boil them again for -five or six minutes. Then take them out, strain, and put them, whilst -still hot, into a sauce-pan with a dessert-spoonful of chopped-up -parsley, salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and four ounces of fresh -butter. Toss them, and serve on a hot dish. (If the beans are dry you -must put them into cold water and boil them for one or two hours first.) - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Polenta.’_ - -Put a quart of white haricot beans into tepid water for the night. -Dry, and put them into cold water, and boil for about an hour over a -slow fire; dry them again, put them into boiling water, and boil for -nearly an hour. Mash, and pass them through a sieve, place them in a -sauce-pan with three ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper, stir -well together, and boil them again for ten minutes. Serve up very hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘Purée alla Brétonne.’_ - -Wash the white haricot beans and let them soak all night. Boil them -(changing the water) until tender, and mash them through a sieve. -Season with salt, pepper, and butter, add enough cream (or stock) to -make them of a proper consistency. Serve hot. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Romana.’_ - -Cook the beans in an earthen pot in salted water, and let them drain. -Meanwhile cut three onions into small pieces, stew them in an earthen -pan until they are browned, then add the beans, with pepper, grated -nutmeg, minced anchovies passed through a sieve, and some broth. Fry -all together, and when the beans have absorbed all the liquid, squeeze -the juice of a lemon over them and serve hot at once. - - -_Beans (Haricots) ‘sautés.’_ - -Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, add some parsley and -half an onion chopped up together. Then put in the beans (already -boiled), leave them to cook for eight or ten minutes, sprinkle them -with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and serve up very hot. - - -_Beans (Lima) ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Put the beans into boiling salted water, cook well, then drain and dry, -season with salt and pepper to taste, and three or four ounces of fresh -butter, add a tablespoonful of flour and three-quarters of a pint of -cream. Boil, and serve up very hot. - - -_Beans (Dwarf Lima) ‘alla Portugese.’_ - -Take a quart of young Lima beans, cook them in salted boiling water for -half an hour, then drain and dry them. Melt four ounces of fresh butter -in a frying-pan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and three-quarters -of a pint of milk, mix well together till they boil, then add two -beaten-up yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, and a finely chopped onion. Pour -over the beans and serve hot. - - -_Beans (Scarlet Runners) ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Snap them in two in the middle and string them. Boil for three-quarters -of an hour in salted water, then drain away the water, put in a little -pepper and salt, and one or more (according to the quantity of beans) -cupfuls of cream. - - * * * * * - - -_Beet Leaves boiled._ - -Take the young leaves of white beetroot, tie them together in bunches -and put them into boiling water. They can be cooked with butter (like -spinach) or served up on buttered toast with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see -Sauces, pp. 122, 124) or Butter sauce. - - -_Beet ‘Gnocchi.’_ - -Wash well and remove the mid-ribs of a bundle of beet leaves, boil, and -then throw them into cold water. Dry, mince them very fine, and put -them into an earthen pot with four fresh eggs, four ounces of grated -cheese, four ounces of curds, or fresh-milk cheese, a little grated -nutmeg, and some salt. When pretty dense put it on a well-floured -table and make a long roll the size of a finger. Cut into pieces about -two inches long, flour them well, and then throw them into an earthen -pot of boiling broth. As they come to the surface take them out, -drain well, season with butter or rich gravy, a little grated nutmeg, -cinnamon, and cheese. They must be cooked over a hot fire. - - * * * * * - - -_Beetroot (How to boil)._ - -Wash the beetroot carefully without cutting or scraping it (if the skin -is broken the beet loses flavour and colour). Young ones take one hour -to boil, old ones four. In winter the beet must be put into cold water -overnight to make it tender, those that remain hard are unfit to eat. -It must be cooked in boiling water, then put into cold water for five -or six minutes, when it can be rubbed with a cloth to take off the -peel. Cut into slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour melted -fresh butter over it; or it can be put into the oven to bake. Boiled -beetroot when wanted for salad ought to be put into wine vinegar to -soak. - - -_Beetroot ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Boil some white beetroot as directed above, and peel it. Cut up into -dice, place on a very hot dish, and pour a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over it -(see Sauces, p. 125). - - -_Beetroot and Potatoes._ - -Boil the beetroot as directed above, and peel when cold. Cut into thin -round slices and put it into a frying-pan with two onions cut up small, -two ounces of butter; stir continually and do not let it brown. Add -one spoonful of flour, and milk enough to make a thickish sauce; add -three saltspoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, and one -tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, and boil for a few minutes. Then -put the slices in the pan to simmer for twenty minutes, and have some -mashed potatoes ready to make a border round the dish in which to put -the beetroot and the sauce, adding a little cream. - - * * * * * - - -_Broccoli ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Wash and clean the broccoli well, put them into salted cold water for -half an hour. Then wrap each head in a piece of linen to prevent its -breaking, and put into salted boiling water for about twenty minutes. -When cooked, remove the linen carefully so as not to break the heads, -place them in a hot dish, pour half a pint (for each head) of hot ‘Alla -Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) over them, and serve immediately. - - -_Broccoli ‘alla Parmigiana.’_ - -Wash and clean the broccoli well and put them for one hour in salted -cold water, then rinse again, and cook in boiling salted water with a -little butter. Put ten tablespoonfuls of White sauce (see below, White -Sauce) into a stew-pan with a little chopped-up onion, and boil for a -few minutes, then add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. -When boiling, add the yolk of an egg and a very little cayenne pepper, -mix quickly and put a little on a dish; lay the broccoli on it, pour -the rest of the sauce over them, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated -cheese, and put it in the oven for half an hour, until of a nice brown -colour, and serve. (If you have no White sauce, use melted butter, -cooking it less, or it will be greasy.) - - -_Broccoli with White Sauce._ - -Boil the heads of broccoli in salted water with a little flour. When -cooked take them out and drain well. Then put them in a dish and pour -the following sauce over them: Melt some butter, salt, pepper, and a -tablespoonful of flour in a sauce-pan, add a glass of boiling water, -pouring it in a little at a time, and stirring continually. When -cooked, take it off the fire and mix the yolk of an egg beaten up with -a piece of butter. Do not put the sauce again on the fire. - - * * * * * - - -_Brussels Sprouts ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Clean, and pick off the dead leaves from one and a half pounds of -sprouts. Wash well, drain, and cook them in boiling water for seven -minutes. Drain again, and cool in cold water. Drain well once more, and -put them into a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of Vellutata sauce -(see Sauces, p. 127), one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of -pepper, and the same of grated nutmeg. Add half a cupful of good cream, -and heat (but do not boil) for five minutes, tossing frequently. Put on -a dish and serve at once. - - -_Brussels Sprouts ‘al Limone.’_ - -Wash the sprouts and remove any dead leaves. Then put them into boiling -salted water and cook for twenty minutes, drain, and place them on a -hot dish. Meanwhile mix four ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls -of flour, add a little broth (or water), and stir well until it boils. -Just before serving add a good sprinkling of pepper and the juice of -two lemons. Pour the sauce over the sprouts and serve up quickly. - - -_Brussels Sprouts ‘sautés.’_ - -Clean and wash the sprouts well, and boil. Then dry, and put them into -a sauce-pan with two (or more) ounces of butter (according to the -quantity of sprouts); brown them well, and add one or two spoonfuls of -white wine vinegar, a little chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Serve -up very hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Cabbage (How to boil)._ - -Cut the cabbage into good-sized pieces and strip off the outside -leaves. Cut out the hard core, wash well in two or three changes of -water, and drain thoroughly. Put the cabbage (a piece at a time, so -as not to stop the boiling) into a large sauce-pan or earthen pot of -salted boiling water. Cook for twenty-five minutes over a hot fire -(with pot uncovered), and push the cabbage under water every now and -then. - - -_Cabbage ‘farcito all’ Americana.’_ - -Take a large cabbage and boil it whole for fifteen minutes. Then -change the water and boil again for half an hour; meanwhile prepare -the stuffing. Put about one pound of rice into cold water and boil for -twenty-five or thirty minutes, add three and a half pounds of sausage, -the juice of a lemon, some chopped parsley and a little pepper, and -mix well. Dry the cabbage thoroughly, open the leaves, and put half a -tablespoonful of the stuffing between each leaf, folding them over it, -until the cabbage is quite stuffed. Then tie it up carefully in a piece -of linen and put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. When boiled -remove the cloth, put the cabbage in a vegetable dish, pour an ‘Alla -Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) over, and serve. - - -_Cabbage ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Choose a white cabbage, remove the outer leaves and cut it into -quarters. Soak in cold water for an hour, then dry, and put it in an -earthen pot of boiling water to cook. Then let it cool for about ten -minutes and put it into another pot of boiling water, adding salt and -pepper, and boil, keeping the cover on tight. When done serve with an -‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125). - - -_Cabbage ‘al Forno.’_ - -Boil the cabbage as directed above. Press out all the water and chop it -up. Put a layer in the bottom of a pie or vegetable dish, cover with a -white sauce made of one cup of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one -of flour, a little salt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and then add -a layer of grated cheese. Repeat your layers of cabbage, sauce, and -cheese; cover the top with a layer of bread-crumbs and bits of butter, -and put it in the oven. When the sauce bubbles on the top take it out -and serve up in the same dish. - - -_Cabbage ‘Fritto.’_ - -Wash and cut up a cabbage, put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. -Boil for twenty minutes, then dry, and put it into a sauce-pan with -four ounces of butter, two spoonfuls of white wine vinegar, some salt, -and pepper; mix well together until it becomes well heated. Then serve -up. - - -_Cabbage ‘all’ Uovo.’_ - -Drain a well-boiled cabbage and chop it up very fine. Put into a -frying-pan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one of flour, for every -quart of chopped cabbage. When hot add the cabbage, season with salt, -pepper, and one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and stir constantly -for six or eight minutes. Then put it on a dish, smooth the outside and -garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs. - - -_Cabbage ‘Pasticciato.’_ - -Cut up a cabbage and boil it in an earthen pot. Boil a little -white wine vinegar in a sauce-pan, put in two well-beaten eggs, -three-quarters of a pint of clotted cream, and a little butter. Mix -well, when boiling add some salt and pepper, and pour over the cabbage. -Serve it cold. - - -_Cabbage ‘in Stufato.’_ - -Cut up a small cabbage and leave it in cold water for some time, then -dry, take out the hard pieces, and chop up the rest fine. Put it into -an earthen pot with a little salt, and boil for fifteen or twenty -minutes. Then strain and put it on a hot dish, pour a cream, tomato, -mustard, or horse-radish sauce, over it, and serve hot. - - -_Cabbage (Rea) ‘alla Fiamminga.’_ - -Remove the outer leaves of a red cabbage and cut it in pieces. Put it -into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then dry, and place it in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, a chopped-up onion, a bay leaf, -two cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Boil slowly for about half -an hour, stirring it often. When cooked take out the bay leaf, add a -little butter and serve quickly. - - -_Cabbage (Red) ‘alla Tedesca.’_ - -Cut up the leaves of two small red cabbages in slices. Melt four ounces -of butter in a frying-pan, and when browned, throw in the cabbage, -adding a little salt, three tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar, and a -chopped-up onion. Cover the frying-pan and put it on a slow fire for an -hour. Serve up very hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 1._ - -Select large green sweet capsicums, and for each one take half a pound -of minced roast or boiled fowl, half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, -a little salt and pepper, and some chopped parsley and mix; add two -ounces of melted butter and mix again. Meanwhile cut off one end of the -capsicums (remove the seeds), and put the capsicums into a sauce-pan of -boiling water; cover the pan and let it boil for about a quarter of an -hour. Then drain the capsicums well, fill them with the force-meat, and -sprinkle them over with bread-crumbs. Put some butter in an earthen pan -and cook the capsicums in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour. - - -_Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ No. 2._ - -Fry six medium-sized green sweet capsicums for one minute in boiling -fat, drain, peel, and cut off the ends, keeping them to use as covers. -Remove the insides and fill them with force-meat made of minced -fresh pork, a spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a -saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and the same of powdered thyme. Put on -the ends, lay the capsicums in a well-oiled baking-dish, add a little -pure olive oil, and put them in a moderate oven to bake for a quarter -of an hour. Turn them on to a hot dish, and serve with a quarter of a -pint of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, p. 127), with a little Marsala -added. - - -_Capsicums ‘al Forno.’_ - -Cut two or more green capsicums in two lengthwise, remove the seeds and -filaments, and parboil them in boiling water for five minutes. Fill -each half with an equal quantity of softened bread-crumb and minced -meat seasoned with butter, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Then put them -into a baking-dish in half an inch of good stock (or water), and bake. -Serve in the baking-dish, hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Cardoons ‘al Bianco.’_ - -Clean and pare two or three pounds of cardoons, cut them lengthwise, -and blanch them in boiling water. Then throw them into cold water to -make them retain their whiteness, and dry them on a clean cloth. Cut -an onion and a carrot into slices, and put them into a sauce-pan with -four ounces of fresh butter, take out the carrot and onion after ten -minutes and mix a tablespoonful of flour into the butter, adding some -broth (or water), to prevent it burning. As soon as the broth (or -water) boils, throw in the cardoons. When done, serve up hot. - - -_Cardoons ‘alla Milanese.’_ - -Prepare the cardoons as above, then put them one by one in a sauce-pan -with six ounces of fresh melted butter, salt them a little, and add -about three-quarters of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a -little Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119). Cook them with fire above -and below, and serve up hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Carrots ‘all’ Aceto.’_ - -Scrape six large carrots and wash them well in cold water, cut them in -slices, put them into an earthen pot of boiling water, and boil till -tender. Then drain and dry, put them into a salad bowl and pour some -white wine vinegar over them, with a little chopped onion and celery -and two bay leaves. - - -_Carrots ‘alla Béchamel.’_ - -Scrape and wash six or eight large carrots, and slice them very fine. -Cook them slowly in a sauce-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, and -a little pounded sugar, salt, and pepper, and stir them continually. -In another sauce-pan put one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, two -tumblers of cream (or milk), and salt to taste. Cook for about ten -minutes, then pour it over the carrots, and heat again, taking care not -to let them boil. - - -_Carrots ‘alla Casalinga.’_ - -Cut up some young carrots into small pieces, and put them into a -sauce-pan with salted boiling water. Leave them to boil for several -minutes, then drain and put them into a sauce-pan, with four ounces -of butter, some salt, and a little pepper, on a hottish fire to bring -out the flavour. Add a little flour, and a little broth (or water), -and boil again, taking care the carrots do not fall to bits. Then make -a sauce with the yolks of two eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and a -little chopped parsley, and pour it over the boiling carrots. Take them -off the fire at once to prevent the eggs from getting hard, put them -on a dish, garnish with fried parsley and fried sippets of bread, and -serve up hot. - - -_Carrots ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them into very fine slices. -Put them into a sauce-pan and cook slowly with two or three ounces of -butter, a little sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper, and mix well -together. In another sauce-pan mix four ounces of butter, four ounces -of fine flour, two tumblers of cream (or milk), and a pinch of salt. -Boil for about ten minutes until the cream begins to bubble, then pour -it over the carrots, keep them on the fire, but do not let them boil. -Serve hot. - - -_Carrots ‘Sautées.’_ - -Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them in rounds half an inch -thick. Cook them in white broth (or salted water) for half an hour in -a covered pan. Then drain, put them in a sauté-pan, add a teacupful of -cream (or milk) and three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, -p. 119), some salt, and pepper, and a little nutmeg. Cook for ten -minutes, then place them on a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, -and serve hot. - - -_Carrots ‘in Stufato.’_ - -Take one or two pounds of fine carrots, cut them in pieces, put them -in an earthen pot of boiling water, and cook them until nearly soft. -Meanwhile, put two ounces of butter, half or three-quarters of a pint -of good broth, and one or two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, -into a frying-pan, and cook quickly for ten minutes; then take it off -the fire, add two well-beaten yolks of eggs, and a little salt and -pepper. Then drain the carrots, pour the hot sauce over them, and serve -hot. - - -_Carrots ‘allo Zucchero.’_ - -Wash and clean two or three pounds of young carrots and cut them up. -Put them in a sauce-pan, add two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, -and water. When cooked, pour a tumbler of cream over them with two -ounces of pounded white sugar, replace the sauce-pan on the fire, being -careful not to let it boil. Then take it off and mix two yolks of eggs, -stirring all well together. Serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Cauliflower ‘al Borghese.’_ - -Boil a cauliflower in salted water for one hour, drain, and break it -into bits. Put a layer of cauliflower into a pie-dish, cover with -Béchamel or ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, pp. 119, 125), and sprinkle -with some grated cheese. Fill the dish with alternate layers of -cauliflowers and sauce, then cover the top with bread-crumbs, grated -cheese, and bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. -Serve hot. - - -_Cauliflower ‘al Burro.’_ - -Clean and remove the leaves from one large (or two small) cauliflowers, -and wash well in fresh water. Then put the cauliflower into a large -sauce-pan full of cold water, add a handful of salt, one teaspoonful -of pepper, and one ounce of fresh butter, boil for half an hour, and -drain well. Pour a sauce made of one tablespoonful of white wine -vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and one ounce of good butter over -the cauliflower, and serve hot. - - -_Cauliflower ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Take off the outer leaves of a cauliflower (cut the stalk off close), -and wash it in cold water. Tie it up in a piece of linen, stand it -upright in an earthen pot of salted water, and boil for half an hour. -Take it out carefully, drain, remove the linen, and put the cauliflower -in a dish. Pour a hot ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) over -it and serve at once. Or you can make a sauce of two ounces of fresh -butter, one tablespoonful of fine flour, well mixed in a frying-pan, -add three-quarters of a pint of milk, stir till it boils, then add a -little salt and cheese. - - -_Cauliflower ‘al Forno.’_ - -Boil a large cauliflower as in last recipe (alla Crema). When -dried place it in a baking-pan. Mix two ounces of butter and one -tablespoonful of flour in a frying-pan, add three-quarters of a pint -of milk, and stir continually till it boils. Then put in a bay leaf, a -little chopped parsley, some salt and pepper, and boil for ten minutes -in a Bain-marie. Then take out the bay leaf and pour the sauce over the -cauliflower, sprinkling it with bread-crumbs. Put some bits of fresh -butter on it, and bake in a very hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. - - -_Cauliflower ‘al Fritto.’_ - -Cut off the leaves and clean a fine cauliflower, break it into pieces, -parboil in salted water, drain, and put it to cool. Whip up two or -three eggs (according to the size of your cauliflower), dip each piece -of cauliflower in, then roll it in bread-crumbs, fry in boiling butter -on both sides, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve hot. - - -_Cauliflower ‘al Gratin.’_ - -Boil a head of cauliflower in salted water, then break it in small -pieces into a sauté-pan with four ounces of fresh butter. As soon as it -boils put it on a dish and pour a Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119) -over it. Put it in the oven, and when browned serve in the same dish. - - -_Cauliflower ‘alla Piemontese.’_ - -Boil a fine cauliflower in salted water, and when done pour the -following sauce over it: Chop up one small onion and one or two -anchovies very fine, cook with some butter and stock, add a few drops -of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of sweet herbs chopped up fine. Cook for -a few minutes just before serving. - - -_Cauliflower ‘in Stufato.’_ - -Remove the outer leaves and clean a fine cauliflower; cut it into -several pieces and wash them well in cold water. Put them into an -earthen pot of salted boiling water, and cook quickly for twenty or -thirty minutes until they are quite tender. Take them out without -breaking, and place them on pieces of buttered toast. Then put some -butter in a frying-pan, add a little flour, mixed with some broth, stir -well till it boils, then add six finely chopped mushrooms, and cook a -little more. Take it off the fire and add three whipped yolks of fresh -eggs, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of one lemon. Pour -this sauce over and round the cauliflower and serve. The sauce must not -be boiled after adding the eggs. - - * * * * * - - -_Celery ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Cut off the green leaves and pare four or five heads of celery, cut -into pieces two inches long, wash well, and dry on a napkin. Blanch in -boiling water for five minutes, drain, and put into a sauté-pan with -two ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of fine flour. Stir -well together, add half a pint of good consommé, and reduce for twenty -minutes. Then thicken with two yolks of eggs beaten up with half a -teacupful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Serve up hot, garnished -with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Celery ‘al Fritto.’_ - -Remove the green leaves and cut the white stalks of the celery into -bits one inch long. Clean, and put them into boiling water for fifteen -minutes, then dry on a napkin. Beat up a fresh egg with stock (or hot -water), add a little salt and pepper, throw the celery in, then roll -them in bread-crumbs, and fry in butter or fine white lard. Serve hot. - - -_Celery ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Take six large heads of celery, cut off the green leaves, leaving -three inches of stalk attached to the root; clean, and cut in half. -Blanch, and put into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, lard, ham, salt -and pepper. Let them get cold, then dip them into the yolk of egg and -bread-crumbs, and fry in fresh butter. Lay them in a dish and pour a -Tomato sauce, or tomato conserve heated, over them. Serve hot. (See -Sauces, p. 126.) - - -_Celery ‘alla Parmigiana.’_ - -Take six large heads of celery and cook as above. But when cooked, -drain, lay in a dish, sprinkle with finely grated Parmesan cheese, pour -melted fresh butter over them, and put into the oven until they have -taken a good colour. Pour a little gravy lightly over, and serve. - - -_Celery ‘al Pomidoro.’_ - -Cut off the green leaves and clean the stalks of six heads of celery, -wash them in cold water, then throw them into an earthen pot of boiling -salt water, and boil fast for twenty minutes. Drain, dry well, put them -on a dish, and pour a pint of tomato sauce, or tomato conserve heated, -over them. Serve hot. - - -_Celery Stewed._ - -Cut the white outside stalks of celery into lengths of three inches, -and boil them for half an hour in salted water. Drain, and put them -into clear strained stock, adding a little minced onion and parsley. -Boil until the celery is tender, add two ounces of butter stirred up -with flour and shake the stew until thickened. Serve hot, pouring the -sauce over the celery. - - * * * * * - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel.’_ - -Peel and pare six small cucumbers, and blanch them in salted boiling -water for five minutes. Drain, and put them in a sauté-pan with half a -pint of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119), half an ounce of butter, -a little grated nutmeg, and three tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook for -fifteen minutes, put them on a hot dish, and serve. - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Comasca.’_ - -Peel and slice two cucumbers very fine, and put salt and pepper, and -taragon vinegar over them. Then slice an onion and lay it on the -cucumbers, leaving them to pickle for fifteen minutes. Remove the onion -and some of the liquid before serving. - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Peel six cucumbers, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds, and -put them into cold water for half an hour. Place them in a covered -sauce-pan of salted boiling water and cook them for half an hour, then -lay them on a hot dish. Melt some butter in a sauce-pan and mix in one -tablespoonful of flour, then add half a pint of milk and stir till -it boils; add a little salt and pepper, take the sauce-pan off the -fire, add a little more butter, and pour the sauce over the cucumbers. -Garnish with croûtons (fried bread), and serve hot. - - -_Cucumbers ‘Farciti.’_ - -Choose cucumbers of about the same size and cut them in two lengthwise. -Remove the seeds carefully with a spoon, and fill with a stuffing -made of equal parts of minced chicken (or other white meat) and soft -bread-crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, one egg, and a little stock. -Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs, and lay them into half an inch of -stock in a baking-dish. Bake in a moderate oven until the cucumbers are -soft, filling up the stock when necessary. Put them carefully in a hot -dish and pour the gravy out of the baking-dish, thickened with a very -little flour, round them. - - -_Cucumbers ‘in Istufato.’_ - -Peel two or three cucumbers, cut them into quarters, and take out -the seeds. Put two ounces of fresh butter and a sliced onion into a -frying-pan, fry until the onion is browned, add the cucumbers and stir -them well until browned. Then take them out of the frying-pan. Put some -more butter into the pan, stir it well with the rest, add a little -broth, and mix till it boils, and add a little salt and pepper. Then -put the cucumbers in, cover them, and leave them to cook slowly for -twenty minutes. Put them on slices of buttered toast and serve up hot. - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Peel four or five cucumbers, cut them into halves, and remove all the -seeds. Then cut them into small pieces and boil in water until soft. -Strain, and dry them well on a napkin. Mix two ounces of butter with a -spoonful of flour over the fire, add salt and pepper, stir well, and -add a tumbler of cream. Put in the cucumbers and heat them without -letting them boil. - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Spagnuola.’_ - -Peel two cucumbers, cut them in half and take out the seeds. Fill them -with force-meat and tie the halves together. Put some lard, raw veal, -two carrots, two onions, some parsley, several bay leaves, some thyme, -salt, and pepper, and the cucumbers covered with lard, into a sauce-pan -with some strong broth, and cook for five or six minutes. Drain, and -then pour a sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) over the cucumbers -before serving up hot. - - -_Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana.’_ - -Peel and blanch three or four cucumbers in salted boiling water for -five minutes. Drain, cut them into pieces one inch thick, and put them -into a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, a little flour, half a pint -of veal broth, stir well, and add some salt and pepper. Reduce for -about fifteen minutes, stirring until it boils, add one teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half a cupful of -cream and the beaten-up yolks of two eggs. Put on the fire again for -three or four minutes (do not let it boil) and serve hot. - - -_Cucumbers ‘all’ Uova.’_ - -Peel three large cucumbers and blanch them in salted boiling water for -five minutes. Drain, and cut them into pieces an inch thick. Put them -in a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, sprinkle a little fine white -flour over them, stir, and add a half pint of veal broth, with salt and -pepper to taste. Stir well until it boils, reduce the whole for fifteen -minutes, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated -nutmeg, two yolks of eggs beaten up, and two tablespoonfuls of cream. -Cook again for three or four minutes, but do not let it boil, and serve -hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite.’_ - -Cut each egg-plant into four, leaving the peel on. Make four cuts in -each piece and fry in boiling fat for one minute. Remove the fleshy -part of the egg plant and fill it with any force-meat you have. -Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and a little melted butter, brown in -the oven for about ten minutes, and serve hot. - - -_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘al Forno.’_ - -Boil two (or more) of the fruits for twenty or thirty minutes (until -tender). Then cut them in two lengthwise and take out the pulp, being -careful not to break the skin. Mash the pulp up with some butter, salt, -and pepper, and replace it in the skins. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and -bits of fresh butter, and put it in the oven to brown. - - -_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Fritto.’_ - -Peel a fruit and cut it into round slices about half an inch thick, -sprinkle with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper, -dip the slices into beaten-up egg and fresh bread-crumbs, and then fry -in hot fat for five minutes. Take them out, give a very slight sprinkle -of salt, and drain them well. Serve very hot on a napkin. - - -_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘alla Griglia.’_ - -Peel a large fruit and cut it into slices half an inch thick, put them -in a dish and season with salt and pepper, and pour a tablespoonful -of pure olive oil over them. Mix well, then broil the slices for five -minutes on both sides. Place them on a hot dish, pour a quarter of a -pint of Butter sauce over them (see Sauces, p. 122), adding a little -chopped parsley, and serve hot. - - -_Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Sauté.’_ - -Peel one or two fruits and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch -thick. Sprinkle with salt, and pile them one on the top of the other -on the underside of a plate. Put a weighted plate on the top of the -pile and let it stand for an hour to press out the juice. Then dip the -slices in egg and bread-crumbs, or in egg and flour, and sauté on both -sides in lard or dripping. Serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Flan of Celery._ - -Clean and boil three or four heads of celery. Then drain well, and chop -them up very fine. Mix one tablespoonful of flour and three-quarters -of an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and add the celery and one pint -of milk. Reduce, then take the sauce-pan off the fire, and when cold -add the yolks of six eggs, and some allspice. Put all into a shape, and -cook it slowly with fire above and below, or in an oven, for half an -hour. An Alla Panna sauce (see Sauces, p. 125) can be served with it. - - -_Flan of Potatoes._ - -Boil one or two pounds of potatoes, cut them into slices, and put -them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and a tumbler -of cream (or milk). Cook until the potatoes are quite soft, mash -them, and pass them through a cullender. Then mix six yolks, and four -beaten-up whites of eggs, and two and a half ounces of white powdered -sugar, with the potatoes, and put the whole into a buttered shape, -well covered with bread-crumbs (and holding more than the quantity of -potatoes). Cook with fire above and below for about half an hour (or in -an oven). A Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119) can be served with the -Flan. - - -_Flan of Vegetables._ - -Wash, strain, boil, and cut up fine about two pounds of different -vegetables, potatoes, spinach, cardoons, etc., and sweet herbs. Boil -them in a sauce-pan with some good stock; when cooked, add a teacupful -of cream (or milk), stir well together and leave them to cool. Then -add four yolks of eggs, some grated cheese, and the white of the eggs -beaten up. Put the vegetables into a buttered shape, well covered with -bread-crumbs, cook with fire above and below, or in the oven. - -(Flans can be made of any other vegetables, such as fennel, French -beans, cauliflower, etc.) - - * * * * * - - -_Fritto ‘Misto.’_ - -Cut one or two young green pumpkins in thin slices about as long as a -finger and half as wide, and lay them on a plate with a little salt. -Mix three ounces of butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour in a -sauce-pan and boil for two minutes, add half a tumbler of cream, half -a tumbler of chicken broth, and boil till it is a stiff Béchamel. Then -mince three breasts of cooked chicken, two slices of tongue, and one -small truffle, mix with the Béchamel and roll into small balls, then -dip into egg and grated bread and put aside till wanted. Take ten or -twelve pumpkin flowers, some young artichokes properly prepared and -cut into quarters (if not quite young and tender they must be boiled -first), some cauliflower and bits of cardoon, dip them in egg and dust -them with flour. Do the same to some parboiled calves’ brains, flour -the slices of pumpkin, and fry all together in pure olive oil. Use -dripping or lard for frying if you have not got good oil. Season with a -sprinkling of salt. Serve very hot. - - -_Fritto of Vegetables._ - -Instead of chicken and calves’ brains mix minced mushrooms or truffles -with the Béchamel and roll into balls. In winter, large yellow pumpkins -and potatoes must be sliced. - - * * * * * - - -_Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco.’_ - -Clean and cut two dozen Jerusalem artichokes into pieces about half -an inch long, wash and put them into a stew-pan with half an ounce -of fresh butter, and a quarter of an ounce of white pounded sugar. -Put them on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls -of white sauce, eight of veal broth (or milk), and simmer until the -Jerusalem artichokes are soft, then skim, mix the yolk of an egg with -two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour it into the stew-pan, stir quickly, -and serve hot. The Jerusalem artichokes must be well cooked, but not -reduced to a pulp. - - -_Jerusalem Artichokes in Purée._ - -Wash well and boil twelve Jerusalem artichokes in three pints of water -with one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of salt. When soft, chop -them up; meanwhile cook slowly in a stew-pan one sliced onion, a little -celery, half a turnip, two ounces of butter, one of ham, three or four -bay leaves, and a little grated nutmeg. Put in the artichokes, stir, -and add one tablespoonful of flour and one pint (or less) of milk to -form a proper thickness when boiled. Pass through a fine hair sieve and -serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Leeks ‘alla Casalinga.’_ - -Cut off the root, peel the white part of the leek (about three inches), -and blanch them in hot water. Dry, braise them in butter, stock, and a -little sugar; and when well glacé serve at once. - - -_Leeks ‘al Forno.’_ - -Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long, and put them -into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling water, and -when done throw them again into cold water. Melt some fresh butter -in a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add seven -tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, a -sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, and the yolk of an egg. Mix well, then -put the leeks into a baking dish and brown them slightly in the oven. -Serve hot. - - -_Leeks ‘alla Salza Bianca.’_ - -Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long and put -them into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling -water, when done throw them again into cold water. Put fresh butter -into a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add five -tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, and -a little pepper. Serve up hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Lentils ‘alla Corona.’_ - -After boiling one pint of lentils with a bouquet of sweet herbs, strain -them. Meanwhile mince some ham with a very little onion and put it to -brown with some butter; then add one or two ladlefuls of good stock, -boil, and strain. Pour this sauce over the lentils with a good piece of -butter, salt and pepper to taste, heat them, and garnish boiled beef or -pork with them. - - -_Lentils ‘in Istufato.’_ - -Put an earthen pot on the fire, and just before the water boils throw -in one pint of lentils. As it boils skim off the lentils which float to -the surface, and continue to do this until all are taken out; the few -which remain at the bottom of the pot must be strained through a sieve. -Chop up two anchovies, place them in a sauce-pan with some pure oil -and butter, and a little minced shallot, brown them well, put in the -lentils, and then add some good stock or soup. When cooked serve up hot. - - -_Lentils ‘alla Provenzale.’_ - -Leave one pint of lentils in cold water for twelve hours. Strain, put -them into hot water, and boil them rapidly; then cook them slowly for -about an hour, drain them well, put them back into boiling water and -cook until quite soft. Pass them through a sieve, and put them into a -sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, a very little onion juice, pepper -and salt to taste, and stir for a quarter of an hour over the fire. -Serve up very hot. Two tablespoonfuls of cream are a good addition. - - -_Lentil Purée._ - -Boil the lentils in water with a spoonful of butter, then rub them -through a sieve. Put some minced parsley, celery, carrot, and a very -little onion on the fire with two or three ounces of butter; when -brown, pour in a ladleful of good stock. Strain, flavour the lentils -with it, adding salt and pepper to taste. The purée should be pretty -stiff. - - -_Lentils ‘al Riso.’_ - -Cook the lentils as in ‘alla Provenzale.’ Then take half a pint of rice -and put it into an earthen pot of boiling water. When cooked, drain the -rice through a sieve, and stand it near the fire for ten or fifteen -minutes to dry. Place two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when -melted, add a small onion chopped up fine; when browned, put in the -lentils and rice, and stir them over the fire for a quarter of an hour. -Add a little salt and pepper, and serve up very hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Lettuce ‘Farcite.’_ - -Cut off the roots, wash, and clean five or six lettuce heads. Put -them into boiling water for five minutes, then fill the inside with -force-meat. Tie the tops together, and put them in a sauce-pan, adding -a quarter of a pint of Marsala sauce, and the same of good white broth. -Add salt and pepper to taste, cover the sauce-pan with buttered paper, -and cook in the oven for fifteen minutes. Place the lettuces on a hot -dish (having untied them), pour the sauce over, and serve hot. - - -_Lettuce ‘al Forno.’_ - -Wash the lettuce, remove the faded leaves, and cut off the root. Tie -the tops together, lay the lettuces side by side in a baking-pan, and -pour in one and a half inches of stock. Cover the pan and put it in a -moderate oven for half an hour, adding stock when necessary. Place a -fork under the middle of each lettuce, raise and drain, and lay them -doubled up on a hot dish. Season the gravy in the pan with butter, salt -and pepper, thicken with one beaten egg, and pour it over the lettuce. -Serve hot. - - -_Lettuce ‘alla Spagnuola.’_ - -Remove the lower leaves and cut twelve fine lettuces in half, blanch, -then drain, and put them into a sauce-pan; sprinkle with salt, and -cover them with slices of lard and ham, moisten with a little broth, -cover the pan with greased paper, and cook in the oven. Drain and -remove the fat, then roll the lettuces in the shape of prunes, and lay -them on croûtons of buttered toast. Pour some sauce ‘Suprema’ (see -Sauces, p. 125) over them, and serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES. - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel.’_ - -Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see p. 3) and -put it into a sauce-pan with three ounces of good fresh butter, -tossing until the butter is thoroughly absorbed. Then add five or six -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, one spoonful of salt, a little pepper -and grated nutmeg, and quarter of a pint of sauce ‘alla Béchamel’ (see -Sauces, p. 119). Toss well together, without stirring, and heat for -five minutes. Place in a deep dish and serve up hot. - - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Boil three-quarters pound of fresh maccaroni in plenty of salted water -for three quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with two cloves -and half an ounce of butter. Drain it well (taking out the onion) and -put it back in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, four ounces of -grated Swiss cheese, and four of grated Parmesan cheese, a small pinch -of nutmeg, and a pinch of pepper. Add half a pint of veal broth, and -four or five tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook for five minutes, stirring -well, and as soon as the maccaroni is ropy serve up hot. - - -_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 1._ - -Boil three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in above recipe. When -drained, put it into a baking dish, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and -grated Parmesan cheese, pour a little clarified fresh butter over it, -and place it in the oven for ten minutes. When of a golden colour serve -up at once. - - -_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 2._ - -Break some large maccaroni into pieces about four inches long, and stew -it in consommé or veal broth until tender. Put a layer of maccaroni in -a dish, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and Gruyère cheese grated fine. -Repeat the layers until the dish is full, then cover the top with a -thick layer of the cheese, some finely grated bread-crumbs, and small -bits of fresh butter. Bake long enough to brown the top, and serve at -once. - - -_Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ No. 3._ - -Break enough maccaroni into bits one and a half or two inches long to -half-fill a pie-dish. Put it into salted boiling water, and boil for -twelve or fifteen minutes until perfectly soft. Shake the sauce-pan -often, or the maccaroni will stick to the bottom. Drain it well, then -put it into the dish with butter, salt, and grated cheese. Fill the -dish with milk, so as to cover the maccaroni, and bake until the milk -is absorbed and the top browned. For every half-pound of maccaroni one -and a half tablespoonfuls of melted butter must be used. Middle-sized -maccaroni is the best for this dish. - - -_Maccaroni ‘au Gratin.’_ - -Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see p. 3). Make a -good white sauce, mix in plenty of grated Parmesan cheese, and add salt -and pepper to taste. Place the maccaroni and sauce in a dish, and bake -in a moderate oven until browned. - - -_Maccaroni ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Prepare three-quarters of a pound of fresh maccaroni as in ‘alla -Crema.’ Then place it in a sauce-pan with a gill of Vellutata sauce -(see Sauces, p. 127), to which add a little Marsala, and a quarter of a -pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Add very little salt, some pepper and -nutmeg, and cook slowly for ten minutes, tossing frequently. Serve on a -hot dish with grated Parmesan cheese separately. - - -_Maccaroni ‘al Latte.’_ - -Parboil three-quarters pound of long maccaroni in salted water, then -drain it well. Put half an ounce of flour and two ounces of butter into -a sauce-pan and stir them well; when they begin to colour, pour one and -a quarter to one and a half pints of milk in gradually, and boil for -ten minutes. Then put in the maccaroni and one ounce of grated Gruyère -cheese, stand the sauce-pan on the edge of the fire to simmer, and let -the maccaroni absorb the milk. When cooked, add one and a half ounces -more butter and one and a half ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, put -the maccaroni into a baking dish and cover it with grated bread-crumbs. -Place it in an oven and serve when browned. - - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Napolitana.’_ - -Boil and prepare three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla -Crema.’ Drain, and put it in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce -‘Suprema,’ half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, pp. 125, 126), -a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, two truffles, six -mushrooms, and half an ounce of tongue, all cut up into small pieces. -Cook over a sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing well all the time, and -serve hot. - - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Quaresima.’_ - -Parboil twelve ounces of maccaroni and drain it well. Put one onion, -a little parsley, and six anchovies all finely chopped up, into a -frying-pan with butter, and fry for six or eight minutes; add this to -the maccaroni with half a tumbler of white wine, one of fish soup (or -water), and a pinch of white pepper, boil over a slow fire for twenty -minutes, and serve at once sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese. - - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Semplice.’_ - -Boil twelve ounces of maccaroni in salted boiling water, then drain -well and put them on a hot dish. Pour four ounces of fresh melted -butter over them and mix in gradually six ounces of grated Swiss -cheese. Stir with two forks, and sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese -thickly over before serving hot. - - -_Maccaroni ‘alla Siciliana.’_ - -Blanch (see p. 3) and strain about three-quarters of a pound of fresh -maccaroni and cut it into small pieces, then mince one pound of roast -veal, four ounces of ham, slice four hard-boiled eggs, and mix with -one and a half tablespoonfuls of finely chopped-up sweet herbs, add -salt and pepper to taste. Butter a mould, and sprinkle it well with -bread-crumbs, then line it with thin paste; put in alternate layers of -maccaroni sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, and of force-meat, -until the mould is full; add half a pint of good stock, cover with -paste and bake in a slow oven for about forty minutes. Serve hot. - - -_Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Milanese.’_ - -Take one pound of flour, one pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce -of salt, and one wineglassful of water, and work the paste well; roll -it out thin and cover carefully the inside of a timbale shape. If any -air bubbles remain between the paste and the shape, prick them to let -out the air. Cook three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni in salted -boiling water, drain, and put it into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, -two ounces of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and some grated Gruyère -cheese; mix well, pour into the mould, and cover with a piece of paste -which fits, passing some white of egg with a brush round the join. Bake -in the oven for three-quarters of an hour, turn the timbale carefully -out of the shape and serve. The timbale can be enriched by adding thin -slices of hare, veal, or sweetbread, truffles and small mushrooms to -the maccaroni. - - -_Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Napolitana.’_ - -Boil half a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla Crema.’ Prepare a timbale -shape about seven inches in diameter and butter it. Arrange long -maccaroni round and round the mould inside until it is covered, and -then stand it in the ice-box until wanted. Put the remaining maccaroni -into a sauce-pan with two ounces of good butter, tossing well for -five minutes, then add a tablespoonful of salt and a little cayenne -pepper, five tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, and a quarter of -a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126), and again toss all well -together. Add some thin slices of truffles and boiled tongue, toss -for two minutes, and take it off the fire to cool for a quarter of an -hour. Then fill the mould with the maccaroni, taking great care not -to disturb the inside coil of maccaroni. Put the mould into a large -sauce-pan, filled to only half the height of the mould with water, and -place it in a moderate oven to cook for one hour. When done turn the -timbale carefully out of the mould on to a hot dish, pour a little hot -Tomato sauce round it, and serve. - - * * * * * - - -OTHER PASTES. - -_Agnellotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’_ - -Take the meat of a boiled chicken (hare, pheasant, or any game will do -as well) and pound in a mortar with one truffle, two ounces of crumb -of bread soaked in veal broth, two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, -the same of pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. When well worked into -a paste rub it through a sieve. Meanwhile take one pound of flour, -three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a pinch of salt, mix up into -a paste and work it well. Lay it aside for half an hour, then roll it -out very thin, divide it in half and let it dry. Then take one half and -put the meat paste on it in little heaps (half a teaspoonful) about -three inches distant from each other. Cover them with the other half -of paste, cut round the little heaps, and press the edges of the two -pastes together to prevent the meat stuffing from coming out. Put the -agnellotti into a sauce-pan with a great deal of salted boiling water -in it, and boil slowly. When done take them out with a strainer, season -with butter, grated Parmesan cheese, and good gravy. Serve very hot. - - -_Crescioni._ - -Boil a bunch of spinach, drain it well and put it to simmer with some -pure olive oil, a taste of shallot, some chopped parsley, and salt and -pepper to taste: season with some raisins (stoned) and some currants, -and a little sugar. Put the spinach into rounds of paste made of flour -and eggs, about two inches in diameter, and fold the paste over the -spinach (as you make a turnover). Fry in pure olive oil. - - -_Gnocchi ‘alla Romana.’_ - -Mix five and a half ounces of flour and two eggs in a sauce-pan, add -one pint of milk by degrees, and three-quarters of an ounce of Gruyère -cheese cut into bits. When the paste is cooked put in salt to taste, -and three-quarters of an ounce of good butter, spread it in a dish to -the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and let it cool. Then cut -it into small square pieces and pile it in layers in a baking-dish with -three-quarters of an ounce of good butter in bits, and three-quarters -of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese between the layers (but not on -the outside). Brown with the salamander or in a hot oven, and serve at -once. - - -_Gnocchi of Semolina._ - -Take one pint of milk, four and a half ounces of semolina and boil; -before taking it off the fire add salt to taste, one ounce of good -butter, and three-quarters of an ounce of Parmesan cheese. Before it -gets cold mix in two eggs, then pour it out on a dish, spreading it in -an even thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. When cold cut it -in small square pieces. Pile them one on another in a vegetable dish, -adding between each layer one ounce of good butter in bits, and some -grated Parmesan cheese (but not on the top), put the gnocchi into a hot -oven to be slightly browned, and serve hot. - - -_Pappardelle with Hare._ - -Make a paste with flour, and three eggs, roll it about the thickness of -a florin, and cut it into strips the width of a finger. Boil in salted -water and put it aside to dry. Cut up the fillets, or the thighs of -a hare (about eight ounces) into small pieces, mince one and a half -ounces of bacon, half a small onion, half a carrot, and a quarter of a -head of celery, and put them to cook with three-quarters of an ounce -of butter, and season with salt and pepper. When browned, sprinkle the -meat with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten it with one wine-glassful -of gravy, and let it simmer for a time, adding one and a quarter ounces -of butter and a little grated nutmeg. Place the pappardelle (the strips -of paste) on a hot dish, grate a little Parmesan cheese over them, add -the hare condiment, and serve hot. - - -_Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe.’_ - -Take twelve ounces of medium-sized spaghetti, parboil in slightly -salted water; meanwhile wash and bone five anchovies, chop them up -fine and put them into a sauce-pan with an abundance of pure olive -oil, and a pinch of pepper. Do not let them boil, but when hot add two -ounces of butter and the pulp of one or two tomatoes (or some tomato -conserve). Pour this sauce over the spaghetti and serve hot. - - -_Spaghetti ‘al Forno.’_ - -Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted -water for three-quarters of an hour, adding an onion with two or three -cloves stuck into it and half an ounce of butter. Drain and place them -in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce ‘Alla Tedesca’ and half a pint -of sauce ‘Alla Béchamel.’ Add a good pinch of pepper, a little grated -nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyère cheese. Toss well, -then put them in a baking-dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese -and bread-crumbs, pour a little clarified butter over them, and put -into the oven. When baked a golden colour (about fifteen minutes) serve -up hot. - - -_Spaghetti ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Boil the spaghetti as above (‘al Forno’), drain, add one pint of Tomato -sauce (see Sauces, p. 126) (or conserve) and a quarter of a pound of -grated cheese, add a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and cook for -ten minutes, tossing well. Serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese -separate. - - -_Spaghetti ‘alla Napolitana.’_ - -Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted -water for three-quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with cloves, -and half an ounce of butter. Drain and put them into a saucepan with -half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126) (or tomato conserve), -half a pint of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125), two truffles, -seven or eight mushrooms, and a piece of smoked tongue, all cut up -small. Add a little pepper, grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of -grated Parmesan cheese. Cook for ten minutes, tossing well, serve hot -with some grated Parmesan cheese separate. - - -_Spaghetti, Timbaletti di._ - -Slide long pieces of spaghetti (or small maccaroni) gently into a -sauce-pan, turning them round so that they should not be broken. Boil -in salted water until tender, then lay them straight out on a cloth to -cool. Butter small moulds (about three inches high), and wind spaghetti -round inside them, beginning at the bottom. As you wind, fill each -mould with boiled maccaroni, pieces of sweetbread cut into small bits, -and button mushrooms, already cooked and prepared. Fill the moulds -rather tight, or the timbaletti will not stand up, cover them with -buttered paper, and stand them in a pan of hot water to cook in a slow -oven for half an hour. Turn the timbaletti carefully out of the moulds, -pour a little gravy round them, and serve hot. - - -_Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio.’_ - -Take one pound of flour, three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a -pinch of salt, mix up into a paste and work it well. Lay it aside -for half an hour, then roll it out very thin and let it dry before -cutting it into long thin strips (tagliarini). Boil these in salted -water over a very slow fire for twenty minutes and then drain well. -Meanwhile prepare four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, five ounces -of grated Gruyère, and six ounces of butter; put a layer of tagliarini -into a baking-dish, and cover them with cheese and butter. Repeat the -alternate layers of tagliarini, cheese and butter, until the dish is -full. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, bake in -the oven for quarter of an hour and serve in the baking-dish very hot. - - -_Tagliatelle with Ham._ - -Make a stiff paste with flour and eggs, roll it to the thickness of a -florin, cut it into strips half or three-quarters of an inch broad, -and parboil with a very little salt. Meanwhile cut up into small square -pieces a thick slice of ham, mince some carrot and celery (about the -same in quantity as the ham) and put them into a frying-pan with two, -or more, ounces of butter. When they begin to brown add some tomato -juice (or tomato conserve) and a cupful of broth (or water). Place -the tagliatelle, well strained, on to a hot dish, season with grated -Parmesan cheese, some bits of butter, and the ham. - - -_Tagliatelle ‘alla Romagnola.’_ - -Put one clove of garlic (or a sliced onion) and a bunch of parsley into -a frying-pan with some pure olive oil. As soon as the garlic (or onion) -begins to brown, add six or seven tomatoes cut in slices, and salt and -pepper to taste. When they are cooked strain off the gravy. Meanwhile -make a paste as in ‘Tagliatelle with Ham,’ parboil in plenty of -slightly salted water, then put it into a sauce-pan, pour the hot gravy -over it, add some butter and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, mix, and -serve at once. - - -_Tagliatelle with Sausages._ - -Prepare the tagliatelle as in the recipe ‘with Ham,’ only substitute -sausages for the ham. - - -_Tortelli._ - -Take seven ounces of curds (squeeze them through a cloth to extract -all the water), one and a half ounce of Parmesan cheese, one egg, and -one yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg and some allspice, a pinch -of salt, and a little chopped-up parsley. Mix well together and put -a spoonful on to little rounds of paste (about two and a half inches -in diameter). Fold the paste over the curds, as you would a turnover, -and put them into boiling salted water. Take them out with a strainer, -season with butter and Parmesan cheese and serve hot. The quantities -given ought to make about twenty-four tortelli. - - * * * * * - - -_Macedoine of Vegetables._ - -Cut one carrot and one turnip into small dice, balls, or any fancy -shapes; take a quarter of a pint of green peas, a quarter of a pint -of young flageolet beans, a quarter of a pint of French beans cut -into slices half an inch long, and some small pieces of cauliflower. -Boil each vegetable separate, and drain them well before mixing them -together lightly with a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ or ‘Alla Béchamel’ (see -Sauces, pp. 119, 125), or a seasoning of melted butter, pepper, and -salt. - - -_Mushrooms (Pratajuoli[4]) ‘al Burro.’_ - -[4] Agaricus campestris. The mushroom usually cultivated in England. - -Take large mushrooms, clean them carefully, break off the stalks and -peel the tops, put them on a gridiron, season with a little pepper and -salt, turn them, and when done serve up on a very hot dish; put a good -piece of fresh butter on to each, and a squeeze of lemon. Place them in -a hot oven for a minute, or even in front of a hot fire, and serve on -buttered toast. - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[5]) ‘alla Casalinga’_ - -[5] Boletus edulis. - -Peel two pounds of fine mushrooms and put them into fresh water. Melt -four ounces of butter in a sauce-pan with two or three spoonfuls of -pure olive oil, one or two leaves of mint, an anchovy finely chopped -up, and a little pounded parsley. Stir well together, put the mushrooms -into the sauce-pan, having first dried them well, and sprinkled them -with salt, then cook slowly. Serve up on slices of bread fried in -butter, and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them. - - -_Mushrooms (Pratajuoli[6]) ‘alla Crema.’_ - -[6] Agaricus campestris. - -Take one pound of fine mushrooms, break off the stalks, clean, wash, -and drain them. (If very large divide them in two.) Put them into a -sauté-pan with one ounce of fresh butter, season with one spoonful of -salt and half a spoonful of pepper, and cover the pan. Cook over a -moderate fire for six or seven minutes, then add half a cupful of cream -and two tablespoonfuls of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, p. 127). Cook -for four minutes, and serve at once in a hot dish with croûtons (fried -bread). - - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[7]) ‘alla Francese’._ - -[7] Boletus edulis. - -Peel two pounds of mushrooms, wash, drain, cut them into halves and -pickle them for one hour in pure olive oil, salt and pepper. Put some -pure olive oil into a clean frying-pan, throw in the mushrooms and add -some finely chopped-up parsley. When done put them on slices of bread -fried in fresh butter and serve hot. - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[8]) Fried. No. 1._ - -[8] Boletus edulis. - -Clean and wash some large mushrooms thoroughly; put them into a -sauce-pan with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic (or an onion), a little -thyme, salt, and a ladleful of water flavoured with a few drops of -vinegar or lemon. Boil for two minutes, then drain, and cut them into -slices. Throw the slices into a paste made of flour, one or two yolks -of eggs, a little white wine (or water), and half a teaspoonful of pure -olive oil. Fry in pure olive oil over a good fire, and serve up hot. - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[9]) Fried. No. 2._ - -[9] Boletus edulis. - -Choose porcini of a medium size, clean, and wash them well, but do not -let them soak, as it spoils the flavour. Cut them into slices and flour -well before throwing them into the frying-pan. Fry in pure olive oil, -and season with salt and pepper while they are frying. - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[10]) Grilled._ - -[10] Boletus edulis. - -Remove the skin of some medium-sized heads of porcini (keep the -stalks), clean, wash, and put them on a napkin to dry. Make a stuffing -of the stalks, some parsley, a very little garlic (or onion), and put a -small portion inside each mushroom head, salt according to taste, with -a pinch of pepper; season with olive oil, place the heads thus prepared -on a gridiron, and cook them over a slow fire for about a quarter of an -hour. Serve very hot. - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[11]) ‘all’ Intingolo.’_ - -[11] Boletus edulis. - -Put several peeled mushrooms into a sauce-pan with two or four ounces -of butter (according to the quantity of mushrooms used), add a small -bunch of parsley and two or three small onions. Put them on the fire, -mix with a little flour, a tumbler of soup, half a tumbler of white -wine, the same of clear gravy, and boil for an hour. Then skim off the -grease, add a little more gravy if required, dust with flour, and put -back to cook with salt and pepper to taste. Serve up hot. - - -_Mushrooms (Prugnuoli[12]) ‘alla Spagnuola.’_ - -[12] Agaricus Georgii (or Tricholoma Georgii). - -Wash and clean one pound of prugnuoli and put them into a sauté-pan -with two ounces of butter, a little flour, salt and pepper, and cook -over a brisk fire for ten minutes. Moisten well with chicken broth, -and add a little sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) (made with -chicken broth). Prepare croûtons (fried bread) on a hot dish, and after -sprinkling the juice of half a lemon over the mushrooms, put them on -the bread and serve. - - -_Mushrooms (Dormienti[13]) ‘al Sugo.’_ - -[13] Hygrophorus Marzuolus. - -Clean and wash well one pound of dormienti, put them into a sauté-pan -with two ounces of butter, a little flour, salt and pepper; boil for -a quarter of an hour, and add three tablespoonfuls of veal broth. -Prepare croûtons (fried bread) on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half -a lemon over the mushrooms, place them on the bread and serve. - - - -_Mushrooms (Pratajuoli[14]) on Toast._ - -[14] Agaricus campestris. - -Choose large fresh mushrooms, peel, and break the stalks off level; -sprinkle pepper and salt on them and place a small piece of butter -on each. Melt some butter in a frying-pan and put the mushrooms in, -covering the pan closely with buttered paper. Fry slowly for ten -minutes, then place the mushrooms on buttered toast, and serve at once. - - -_Mushrooms (Porcini[15]) with Tomato Sauce._ - -[15] Boletus edulis. - -Clean and cut the porcini into small pieces, wash, dry, and put them -into a sauce-pan with one clove of garlic (or a little onion), and -a little salt, adding some tomato conserve or the pulp of two raw -tomatoes without skin or seeds, after pounding it well. Serve up hot. - - -_Mushrooms (Ovoli[16]) ‘Trippati.’_ - -[16] Amanita Caesarea. - -Choose the ovoli young whilst still closed and of the form of an egg. -Clean and wash them and cut them into thin slices. Fry in good butter, -and season with salt, pepper, and grated Parmesan cheese. A little -gravy is an improvement. Serve hot with croûtons (fried bread). - - * * * * * - - -_Onions ‘Farcite.’_ - -Boil six large onions for an hour in their skins. After draining, -peel them and cut out their centres. Meanwhile prepare the following -stuffing: Chop up fine four ounces of ham, or tongue, add grated bread, -some melted butter, one or two tablespoonfuls of cream, a little salt -and pepper. Mix well into a paste and fill the centre of the onions -with it, then put them into a frying-pan, sprinkle them with a Butter -sauce, and grated bread, and cook them with fire above and below, or in -the oven. Just before serving pour ‘Alla Panna’ sauce over them (see -Sauces, pp. 122, 125). - - -_Onions Fried._ - -Peel and slice four medium-sized onions and put them into milk for a -short time, then dip them in flour and fry them in very hot fat for -eight or ten minutes. Strain, put them on a napkin to dry, and serve on -a hot dish garnished with fried parsley. - - -_Onions ‘Glacées.’_ - -Peel twelve large onions and put them into boiling water for about -twenty minutes. Then drain, throw them into cold water, remove the -two outer skins, and cut out their centres. Stand the onions in a -frying-pan and put a teaspoonful of sugar into the centre of each, add -four ounces of butter and cook them slowly until soft and slightly -browned. Add some strong broth, a little at a time, and let it cook -until it becomes reduced, keeping the frying-pan covered. Sprinkle the -onions with the sauce and they will be well glacées. - - -_Onions (Small White)._ - -Boil three-quarters of a pound of small white onions, then put them -into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter and a little flour, and cook -them till they turn a good colour. Add about a quarter or half a pint -of white wine or broth, and before they have finished cooking add some -pepper and grated nutmeg. When the liquid is reduced, serve at once. - -The onions can also be put into the oven, sprinkled with Parmesan -cheese and melted butter, and browned. - - -_Onions ‘in Stufato.’_ - -Peel two pounds of onions and, after putting them into cold water, -place them in a sauce-pan and cover them with good broth, letting them -cook slowly. If young, one hour will suffice, if old, allow two hours. -When soft, strain, and put them on a dish. Melt two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, add a spoonful of flour, and three-quarters of a -pint of broth, mixing well until it boils, then add a little salt and -pepper, and pour it over the onions. Serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Parsnips ‘alla Crema.’_ - -If the parsnips are young and tender they must be put into cold water -immediately after being scraped, to keep them white. If old they must -be peeled and cut lengthwise into four pieces. Boil young parsnips -three-quarters of an hour, old ones one and a quarter hours. Then -drain, arrange on a hot dish, and pour a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over them -(see Sauces, p. 125). - - -_Parsnips ‘al Forno.’_ - -Wash and peel six large parsnips, cut them in two and put them into a -sauce-pan with enough boiling water to cover them, for one hour. Then -drain, and place them on a hot dish. Meantime melt two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan with three or four tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir -to prevent browning. Add half a pint of hot water and boil for five -minutes, stirring constantly. Add salt and pepper to taste, pour the -sauce over the parsnips, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs and grated -cheese, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a slow oven. - - -_Parsnips ‘Fritte.’_ - -Boil the parsnips till tender; drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, -dip them into butter, then into flour, and then sprinkle with sugar. -Melt two or three tablespoonfuls of dripping in a frying-pan, put in -the parsnips, and fry until browned on both sides. - - -_Parsnips ‘Sautés.’_ - -Mash six or seven parsnips, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and stir in -one tablespoonful of flour and one egg. Make them up into small round -cakes and fry in dripping, turning occasionally, until browned on both -sides. - - * * * * * - - -_Peas ‘all’ Antica.’_ - -Shell carefully three quarts of young peas and wrap them in a wet cloth -until wanted. Wash and tie up a lettuce head, and put it with the peas -into a sauce-pan, adding one tumbler of water, a quarter of a pound -of fresh butter, and a pinch of salt. Cook for a quarter of an hour, -take out the lettuce, and before serving put in three tablespoonfuls of -cream, mixed with the yolk of one egg, a spoonful of powdered sugar, -and half a saltspoonful of white pepper. Boil for five minutes and -serve hot. - - -_Peas ‘alla Borghese.’_ - -Put one quart of young shelled peas into a sauce-pan with a little -browned onion, one or two slices of ham chopped up fine, one ounce of -fresh butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a sprinkling of flour. Add -a large ladleful of good stock and cook slowly. When done, mix in a -cupful of milk, a little powdered sugar, and thicken with two yolks of -eggs. Serve up hot. - - -_Peas ‘al Burro.’_ - -Put one quart of shelled peas into a sauce-pan with a little cold water -and four ounces of fresh butter. Place them on a hot fire, add a cupful -of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste, a spoonful of sugar, and -a bunch of parsley. When reduced take out the parsley, add one or two -ounces of fresh butter, and serve hot. - - -_Peas ‘alla Consommé.’_ - -Boil one and a half quarts of peas, and two carrots cut into small -square pieces, in good broth, with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, -for about an hour. Just before serving put the peas on to croûtons -(fried bread) fried in fresh butter. - - -_Peas ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Cook one pint of shelled peas in an earthen pot of salted boiling water -for a quarter of an hour, then drain. Put two ounces of fresh butter -into a sauce-pan with one tablespoonful of flour, then add half a pint -of milk and mix until it boils. Add salt and pepper to taste, and then -put in the peas. Cook in a Bain-marie for a quarter of an hour, and -serve as a garnish to any baked meat. - - -_Peas ‘alla Francese.’ No. 1._ - -Take two young onions, cut them in half lengthwise, tie them up with a -bunch of parsley leaves, and put them into a sauce-pan with one ounce -of butter. When browned, pour a large cupful of broth over them and -boil. As soon as the onions are quite soft rub them through a sieve -together with the broth, and put them into a sauce-pan with one quart -of peas and two heads of lettuce. Season with salt and pepper to taste, -and boil slowly. When half done add one ounce more of butter mixed with -a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little more broth, if needed. Before -serving take out the lettuce and thicken with two yolks of eggs mixed -in a little broth. - - -_Peas ‘alla Francese.’ No. 2._ - -Cut two young onions into fine slices, and put them in a sauce-pan with -one ounce of butter. When browned, mix in a sprinkling of flour, pour -in one or two cupfuls of broth and let the flour cook. Put in one -quart of young peas, season with salt and pepper, and when half-cooked -add two heads of lettuce. Boil slowly, taking care that the gravy does -not get too thick, and before serving take out the lettuce. Sugar can -be added, but only in small quantities. - - -_Peas ‘al Buon Gusto.’_ - -Make a cross cut in an onion and put it into a sauce-pan with one ounce -of butter; when browned, take it out and add a little flour to the -butter. Mix and put in one quart of boiled peas, sprinkling them with -salt and allspice. As soon as they have taken up the butter pour in a -cupful of stock to finish the cooking, and serve. - - -_Peas ‘all’ Inglese.’_ - -Boil the peas in salted water with a bunch of parsley, drain when done. -Just before serving turn them into the dish adding a few slices of -fresh butter. - - -_Pea Omelette._ - -Boil one quart of shelled peas in salted water for fifteen minutes, -then strain and keep them hot while preparing the omelette. Beat up -four eggs, and add four tablespoonfuls of hot water, three-quarters of -an ounce of fresh butter, and three or four drops of onion juice. Then -put four ounces of butter into a frying-pan, brown it well and put in -the eggs. Stir over a brisk fire till the eggs have set, then tilt the -pan so that the butter passes under the omelette, and sprinkle with -salt and pepper. Put two spoonfuls of the boiled peas into the middle -of the omelette, turn one half of it over the peas, and put it on a -very hot dish. Add a spoonful of Butter sauce to the rest of the peas -and put them round the omelette. Serve up very hot. - - -_Pease-pudding._ - -Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a sauce-pan, when browned put in one -quart of shelled peas, add salt to taste, and mix for three minutes. -Then moisten with strong stock (for _maigre_ use fish soup) and add -a little cinnamon and allspice. When the peas are soft to the touch -rub them through a sieve. Meanwhile cook two ounces of butter in a -sauce-pan, put in the purée of peas, stir, and add a tablespoonful -of flour, and then (stirring all the time) two pounded maccaroons, -and three yolks of eggs. Take the peas off the fire and let them cool -before mixing lightly with them three whites of eggs well beaten up. -Butter a shape, put in the peas, and cook in a Bain-marie with fire -above and below. - - -_Peas in their Pods._ - -Take two pounds of very young peas in their pods and boil them in an -earthen pot in salted boiling water for about half an hour. When cooked -put them into a hot dish and pour sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over them (see -Sauces, p. 125), or melted butter, salt, and pepper. Serve hot. - - -_Peas ‘allo Stufato.’_ - -Take one and a half or two pounds of shelled peas, and put them into a -sauce-pan with some ham, two ounces of butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, -and a little fried onion. Simmer gently till they are done, then blend -with the yolks of two or three eggs. Serve hot. - - -_Peas ‘allo Zucchero.’_ - -Take one pound of shelled peas, put them into a sauce-pan with two -ounces of butter, one tumbler of water, one ounce of sugar, and a -sprinkling of salt. Cook them over a sharp fire for a quarter of an -hour; when tender, take them off the fire and add the yolks of four -eggs well beaten up with half a tumbler of cream. Put them on the fire -again and stir continually to prevent them from boiling. As soon as the -eggs are set serve at once. - - * * * * * - - -_Polenta ‘Dabs.’_ - -Scald one pint of Indian corn flour in boiling water. Mix together -one dessert-spoonful of butter, two lightly beaten-up eggs, one -wine-glassful of cream and a little salt, add this to the corn flour, -and drop the paste from a spoon into a well-buttered pan. Bake in a -moderate oven.[17] - -[17] This is an American recipe. - - -_Polenta ‘alla Parmigiana.’_ - -Stir one pound of Indian corn flour, a little at a time, into one -pint of boiling salted water until smooth, then turn out into a dish -to cool, in a layer about half an inch thick. When quite cold, cut -into pieces of one inch long, and pile in layers in a baking-dish, -sprinkling each layer well with grated Parmesan cheese and some melted -butter. Bake in a slow oven and serve hot. - - -_Polenta with Sausages._ - -Make a polenta as above (alla Parmigiana) and while cooling boil two -or three sausages in an earthen pot with very little water. When done, -skin them, break them into small pieces, and add a little stock and -tomato conserve. Lay the polenta in a baking dish, putting some sausage -and grated Parmesan cheese between each layer with some bits of butter -here and there. Then cook with fire above and below, or in the oven, -and serve very hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Potatoes Boiled._ - -Wash the potatoes well and peel off a piece of skin round each potato -about half an inch wide to make them mealy. Put them in a sauce-pan, -and cover them with cold water; add half a handful of salt, cover the -sauce-pan, boil for forty-five minutes. Drain them well, place them in -a napkin on a hot dish, and serve hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Borghese.’_ - -Boil two pounds of potatoes, and put them in a covered dish to drain. -When dry, peel and cut them into slices, then put them into a sauce-pan -with four ounces of butter, some chopped parsley, and salt and pepper -to taste. Let them simmer over a slow fire, then squeeze the juice of -two lemons over them and serve up hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Campagnuola.’_ - -Boil two pounds of potatoes, peel, slice fine, and brown them slightly -in a frying-pan with four ounces of butter. Toss them now and then, -adding a little salt and grated nutmeg, and mix Béchamel sauce with -them before serving hot (see Sauces, p. 119). - - -_Potatoes ‘in Casseruola.’_ - -Mix one pound of mashed potatoes, the yolks of four eggs, half a pint -of cream, and two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. Cook until hot, stir -constantly until the paste is flaky and light, sprinkle with salt and -pepper. Arrange the paste in a circle round a dish and set it in the -oven to colour. Then fill the circle with a fricassee of chicken or -rabbit, or any kind of stew, mushrooms, or any cooked vegetables (peas, -French beans, etc.) left over from the day before, or half a bottle of -tomato conserve, or the pulp of six or seven fresh tomatoes. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Boil six or eight potatoes, and cut them into small pieces. Put -four ounces of butter, a little flour, salt, pepper, half an onion, -some parsley chopped up fine, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, into a -sauce-pan. Mix well until it boils, then add a tumbler of cream. Stir -constantly over a slow fire until it boils, and then add the potatoes. -Stand the sauce-pan by the fire for a few minutes, and serve up very -hot. - - -_Potato Croquettes. No. 1._ - -Boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water, when cool pound in a -mortar, and mix with two or three eggs, and various sweet herbs -chopped up (parsley, thyme, marjoram, chervil, etc.). Moisten with half -a cup of cream and stir into a thick paste. Roll this into croquettes -and fry in fresh butter. When they have taken a good colour serve up -hot. - - -_Potato Croquettes. No. 2._ - -Put one pound of mashed potatoes, the beaten-up yolks of two eggs, a -little onion juice, grated nutmeg, salt, two tablespoonfuls of cream, -a pinch of cinnamon, one dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, and two -ounces of butter, into a sauce-pan over a moderate fire. Cook until it -comes away from the sides, then remove it from the fire. When cold it -will break up into small pieces. Meanwhile beat up an egg with a little -hot water, dip the pieces of potato into it, and then into grated -bread-crumbs. Fry in boiling fat and serve hot with fried parsley. - - -_Potato ‘Farcite.’_ - -Wash and peel six or seven large potatoes, cut them in two lengthwise, -scoop out the centres (leaving just enough of the potato to support -the skin), and fill with forcemeat made of fresh pork minced, salt and -pepper to taste, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little powdered thyme. -Arrange the potatoes in a well-buttered baking-dish, and cook for half -an hour in a slow oven until well browned. - - -_Potatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 1._ - -Mash six or seven boiled potatoes and beat them up while hot with three -tablespoonfuls of cream, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one raw egg, and -salt to taste. Put a layer into a well-buttered baking-dish, then put a -layer of thin slices of yolk of hard-boiled eggs, sprinkled with salt -and pepper; put layers of potatoes and eggs until the dish is full. -The top layer must be potato, over which strew bread-crumbs thickly. -Cover the dish and bake until hot, then brown quickly, and serve in the -baking-dish. - - -_Potatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 2._ - -Roast six large potatoes in the oven with their skins on, cut them in -two, remove the inside with a spoon, but take care to leave enough -substance to preserve the shape of the potato. Put the inside of the -potato in a dish and add two ounces of butter, half a pint of hot milk, -salt and pepper to taste. Mix together until the paste is light, and -then add the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and beat up the whole -well. Fill the potato skins with the paste, first rolling it in the -yolk of egg, then cook in the oven and serve as soon as the top is well -coloured. - - -_Potatoes ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette)._ - -Mince up two boiled, cold, potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and -put them into a frying-pan in which two ounces of butter have been -melted. Spread the potatoes one-third of an inch deep in the pan, and -cook slowly over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hour. Then -turn over (as you would any other omelette), and cook the other side. -Serve hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Semplicità.’_ - -Boil and peel eight large potatoes, and pound them in a mortar with -two spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little powdered cinnamon, and some -salt. When fairly thick and consistent, make up the paste into fritters -and fry in butter, turning them continually until they are a rich brown -colour. If a richer dish is desired, add four eggs and two ounces of -butter to the potato paste. - - -_Potatoes ‘Fritti alla Francese.’_ - -Wash thoroughly six large peeled potatoes, then cut them into small -balls, and put them in boiling water to cook for five or six minutes. -Drain, then fry them, a few at a time, in good roast-meat dripping -until they are of a golden colour. When cooked, drain them, sprinkle -with salt, and serve as a garnish to fish or meat. - - -_Potatoes ‘in Frittura.’_ - -Pound four or six cold, boiled potatoes in a mortar with two -tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little powdered cinnamon, and -some salt. When the paste is well mixed and smooth, make it up into -small round cakes and put them into fried fresh butter, turning them -until they take a good yellow colour. Serve hot. - - -_Potato ‘Gnocchi.’_ - -Boil eight or ten potatoes for a few minutes, then peel; place -them in the oven until they are quite soft, then pound them in a -mortar with three-quarters of an ounce of grated cheese, five or six -dessert-spoonfuls of flour, salt to taste, and three eggs. Knead well -and make little rolls, cover them with flour, and put them into a large -sauce-pan with salted boiling water. Boil for five or six minutes, then -take them carefully out, and place them on a dish, sprinkle them with -cheese, and pour some browned melted fresh butter over them with a -taste of onion in it (if liked). - - -_Potatoes ‘all’ Italiana.’_ - -Wash eight potatoes thoroughly, peel off a strip of skin round each -(to make them mealy), put them in a sauce-pan and cover them with cold -salted water, put on the lid and boil for forty-five minutes. Then peel -and mash them, put them in a sauce-pan, add one ounce of butter and a -piece of fresh crumb of bread (about the size of a roll) which has -been soaked in milk. Put in two tablespoonfuls of milk, three yolks -of fresh eggs with their whites beaten to a froth, salt and pepper to -taste, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix well together and pile it high -in a baking-dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and sprinkle a -little Parmesan cheese, then put it in the oven for about ten minutes. -Serve as soon as it is of a good golden colour. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Gran Duchessa.’_ - -Take one pound of mashed potatoes, add two ounces of butter, and salt -to taste, one tablespoonful of powdered white sugar, and work up into -a light paste, adding two well-beaten eggs. Make the paste into oval -balls, roll them in melted fresh butter, and place them in the oven on -greased paper until well cooked. They make a nice garnish. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Lionese.’_ - -Boil two large potatoes, and when cold cut them into slices. Melt two -ounces of butter in a frying-pan, add a sliced onion, and stir till -well browned. Put in the potatoes and simmer gently until they are -coloured, then sprinkle with a little salt. Place them on a hot dish -and serve very hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel.’_ - -Boil four large potatoes and cut them into dice. Put them into a -sauce-pan, add about one pint of stock, and cook slowly for a quarter -of an hour, sprinkling with salt and pepper to taste, and then -place them on a hot dish. Meanwhile fry two ounces of butter, one -tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon, when -done, pour over the potatoes and serve immediately. - - -_Potatoes ‘all’ Olandese.’_ - -Peel six large, cold, boiled potatoes, cut them into dice, and throw -them into boiling water for five minutes. After draining, place them in -a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter on a moderate fire, or in a slow -oven, and shake them occasionally, until the potatoes have absorbed the -butter and are soft. Serve on a hot dish with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see -Sauces, p. 124). - - -_Potatoes ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Boil eight or ten large potatoes, and cut them up when cold into -small dice. Melt four ounces of butter in an earthen dish with one -tablespoonful of flour, then mix in one pint of fresh cream (or milk), -a little salt and pepper, and a small pinch of nutmeg. Stir well -together until it boils, then put in the potatoes, add some grated -bread-crumbs and bits of fresh butter, and cook over a brisk fire until -they have turned a good yellow colour. Serve up hot in the earthen dish. - - -_Potato Pudding._ - -Mash twelve large boiled potatoes in a sauce-pan with four ounces of -butter, two tumblers of cream, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of -flour. Then rub through a sieve, adding four ounces of white powdered -sugar, a little cinnamon, the yolks of four eggs, with their whites -beaten to a froth. Mix well, put into a well-buttered mould thickly -sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and bake for three-quarters of an hour -until browned. - - -_Potato Pudding with Mushrooms (Budino con Prugnuoli)._ - -Peel eight or more potatoes, cut them into quarters, wash, and boil -them in salted water with half a lemon; take them off the fire before -they are over-cooked. Then strain through a sieve, put them into a -large dish, and mash them well with a wooden spoon. Add two ounces of -fresh butter, and pour in half a tumbler of cream (a little at a time). -Beat up well with the spoon until the paste is smooth, then add three -or four well-beaten-up yolks of eggs. Butter a mould and pour in the -potato paste, make a hole in the centre, put small whole mushrooms into -it, cover them with a piece of the paste, and cook in the oven. When -baked, turn out the pudding on to a dish and serve hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘in Ragoût.’_ - -Cut six fine potatoes into dice, and put them into boiling water with -six sliced leeks. Boil for ten minutes, then drain. Boil half a bunch -of asparagus, drain, cut off their heads, and add them to the potatoes -and leeks, mixing well together. Meanwhile put two ounces of butter, -one pint of milk, one tablespoonful of chopped chervil, pepper and -salt to taste, into a sauce-pan, mix slowly over the fire until hot, -then pour over the potatoes, leeks, and asparagus, and boil the whole -together. Serve very hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted)._ - -Choose two pounds of young, round, and equal-sized potatoes. Put them -into a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, salt to taste, and cover -hermetically. Place over a slow fire and shake frequently. After -three-quarters of an hour the potatoes will have a brown crust, and -inside they will be white and tender. - - -_Potatoes ‘Sautées.’_ - -Cut three or four cold, boiled potatoes into dice, and put them, a -few at a time, so that they shall not overlap one another, into a -frying-pan with fresh butter. (Allow one tablespoonful of butter for -each potato.) Brown them well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve -immediately. - - -_Potatoes ‘in Stufato.’_ - -Cut ten large potatoes into dice and put them into cold water for a -quarter of an hour. Drain, and cook in boiling water for about ten -minutes, then dry in a cloth and put them into a sauce-pan; sprinkle -them with flour, add one pint of milk and two ounces of butter. Cover -tightly and let them simmer slowly for ten or fifteen minutes. Sprinkle -with salt and pepper, and serve up very hot. - - -_Potatoes ‘Tartufate.’_ - -Cut three or four parboiled potatoes into thin slices and lay them one -by one, with thin slices of truffles mixed with grated Parmesan cheese, -in an earthen dish. Add two ounces of butter in bits, salt and pepper -to taste, and when the potatoes begin to cook moisten with broth or -gravy. Before serving, squeeze a little lemon juice over them, and -serve hot in the earthen dish. - - -_Potatoes ‘all’ Umido.’_ - -Boil five or six large potatoes, let them get cold, and then cut them -into dice. Put them into a baking-dish with two ounces of butter and -enough cream to cover them. Cook until nicely browned, and serve very -hot. - - * * * * * - - -_Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina.’_ - -Take twelve very young pumpkins (about one and a half inches long), cut -them in half, and put them in cold water. Have a sauce-pan ready with -four quarts of salted water. When boiling put in the pumpkins. When -they are cooked put them again into cold water. Just before serving -place them in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, heat for three -minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of veal broth, two of cream, and a -squeeze of lemon. Heat again and serve. - - -_Pumpkins ‘Fritti.’_ - -Take young pumpkins (about the size of your two fists), peel them, cut -them in half, and take out seeds and pulp. Cut them into thin strips -(one and a half or two inches long, and as wide as your finger), -and put them into a dish with salt for some hours. Then squeeze out -the water with your hands, and throw them into flour, taking care to -separate and cover each strip with flour, shake the superfluous flour -off them in a sieve, and put them into a frying-pan with plenty of -boiling lard or oil. Serve at once. - - -_Pumpkin Pudding (Bodino)._ - -Cook (but not too much) two and a half pounds of pumpkin with two -ounces of butter, a little pepper, allspice, and salt, and pass -through a sieve, adding some crumb of bread soaked in milk or cream, -some powdered cinnamon, several pounded bitter almonds, a handful of -grated bread, and three yolks of eggs. Mix thoroughly and put it into a -well-buttered shape with thin slices of buttered bread arranged round -the inside, and cook with a fire above and below until thoroughly -browned. Serve up hot. - - -_Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ No. 1._ - -Cut six young and small pumpkins (about two and a half inches long) -in two, and take out the pulp. Meanwhile mince fine the breast of a -fowl (or any tender white meat you have over from the day before), -one slice of tongue, and one of ham; put them into a sauce-pan with -three tablespoonfuls of veal broth, the yolk of an egg, a pinch of -salt, and one of pepper; parboil; therewith fill the pumpkins. Butter -a sauté-pan, lay the stuffed pumpkins in, and cook with fire above and -below, occasionally adding some broth. Serve as soon as cooked. - - -_Pumpkins ‘Ripiene’ (maigre). No. 2._ - -Take young pumpkins (about the size of your fist), scoop out their -insides, and fill them with minced tunny fish preserved in oil, yolk -of egg, a pinch of Parmesan cheese, a little of the soft pulp of the -pumpkin, and a little allspice and pepper, but no salt. Cook the -pumpkins in butter, and when brown serve with Tomato sauce (see Sauces, -p. 126). - - * * * * * - - -_Rice (How to cook)._ - -Place a large sauce-pan with water on a hot fire; it is necessary that -the water should boil violently in order to keep the grains of rice -separate. Wash the rice in several waters so as to remove the floury -coating, which makes it pasty. Drain, and drop it gradually into the -sauce-pan, so as not to stop the boiling. Then boil hard for a quarter -of an hour or twenty minutes. When the rice is soft to the touch, it is -done. Then drain off every drop of water, sprinkle with salt, cover the -sauce-pan with a thin napkin, and leave it by the fire to steam and get -dry. (The rice can also be put into a cullender to drain, and then into -an open oven to dry; or butter the interior of a stew-pan, put in the -rice, put on the lid tight, and stand the pan on a trivet in the oven, -or by the fire.) - - -_Rice ‘alla Casalinga.’_ - -Wash eight ounces of rice, and blanch it in a sauce-pan with two quarts -of water for five minutes, then strain and let it cool. Meanwhile fry -four ounces of lean bacon cut up into small pieces, and when browned, -add one and a half pints of stock and a small teaspoonful of white -pepper. Put in the rice, cook for twenty minutes, stirring every now -and then, take it off the fire, add half a tumbler of Tomato sauce (see -Sauces, p. 126), or conserve, and mix well. Turn out the rice on to a -hot dish, and garnish with small sausages. - - -_Rice Croquettes._ - -Boil a cupful of rice in weak chicken broth, drain, stir in two -beaten-up eggs, one teaspoonful of butter, a slight sprinkling of -flour, pepper, and a pinch of grated lemon-peel. Flour your hands, and -make the rice, when cold, into small sausages (or croquettes), roll -each in raw egg, and then in bread crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. - - -_Rice with Tomatoes. No. 1._ - -Boil one cupful of rice soft in hot water, shake it now and then, but -do not stir it. Drain, and add a little milk in which a beaten egg has -been mixed, one teaspoonful of butter, and a little pepper and salt. -Simmer for five minutes, and if the rice has not absorbed all the milk, -drain it again. Put the rice round a dish, smooth it into a wall, wash -it over with the yolk of a beaten-up egg, and put it into the oven till -firm. Take half a bottle of tomato conserve (or the strained juice -and pulp of seven or eight tomatoes), season with pepper, a little -salt, sugar, and half a chopped onion, stew for twenty minutes, then -stir in one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of fine -bread-crumbs. Stew three or four minutes to thicken, and then pour the -tomato into the dish in the middle of the rice, and serve. - - -_Rice with Tomatoes. No. 2._ - -Boil one cupful of rice as directed in ‘How to boil Rice’; add half a -cupful of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, p. 126), season with some butter, -salt, and pepper to taste, and one or two bay leaves. Toss, or mix -lightly with a fork, being careful not to mash the grains. Serve hot. -This makes a nice dish for winter. - - -_Rice with Prawns._ - -Mince up half an onion, one clove of garlic, one carrot, half a head -of celery, and a bunch of parsley, and brown in pure olive oil. Then -put six or seven ounces of prawns into the sauce-pan, and season with -salt and pepper. Turn them often, and when all are red put in two or -three tablespoonfuls of Tomato sauce (or conserve), and add enough hot -water to cook fourteen or fifteen ounces of rice in afterwards. Do not -boil too much, as prawns cook fast. Take the prawns out, dry them, -choose about a third of the finest, shell and lay them aside. Pound -the others in a mortar (shells and all), rub them through a sieve, and -mix again with the water in which they were cooked. Meanwhile put some -butter into a sauce-pan, add the rice, stir well, and as soon as it -has taken up the butter, pour the water little by little on to it. -When half-boiled add the shelled prawns, and before serving sprinkle -Parmesan cheese over the whole. - - -_Rice with Quails._ - -Mince up two or four slices of ham and a quarter of an onion, and -brown in a sauce-pan, then put in four quails ready drawn. Sprinkle -with pepper and salt, and as soon as they are browned, parboil them in -broth, then add fourteen ounces of rice, and boil all together. Powder -with grated Parmesan cheese and serve on a hot dish. - - -_Rice ‘alla Ristori.’_ - -Cut two ounces of bacon into small pieces, and put them into a -sauce-pan with chopped-up cabbage. Steam for half an hour and add a -little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; then throw in a quarter of -a pound of rice and half a pint of veal broth. Cook for fifteen or -eighteen minutes, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese sprinkled over -it. - - * * * * * - - -_Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 1._ - -Melt two ounces of good fresh butter in a sauce-pan over a sharp fire, -add one onion chopped fine, brown a deep golden colour, then add about -ten ounces of clean rice (Italian if possible) and two large truffles -chopped up. Stir without stopping for one and a half minutes, and add -one quart of boiling veal broth, stir and let it cook for fourteen -minutes. Add six chopped-up mushrooms, and, a little at a time, one -more quart of broth, stirring constantly over a sharp fire for ten -minutes more. Put in half a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, one -and a half ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a teaspoonful of -saffron soaked in two tablespoonfuls of hot broth, and strained. Cook -three or four minutes longer, stirring all the time, then pour into a -deep dish, and serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese separate. It -is an improvement to put a tablespoonful of marrow into the centre just -before serving. - - -_Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 2._ - -Cut up an onion and cook it with one and a half ounces of beef marrow, -and the same quantity of good butter; when browned put in one pound of -rice and add three-quarters of a glass of good white wine and broth -enough to cook the rice. Before taking off the fire add one and a half -ounces of butter and some grated Parmesan cheese, and serve with more -grated cheese separately. - - -_Risotto with Peas._ - -Mince up one small onion, brown it in two ounces of butter, then put in -one pound of rice, and stir with a ladle until the rice has taken up -all the butter. Add hot water (a cupful at a time), sprinkle with salt, -and let it boil dry, adding two ounces of butter. Before taking it off -the fire add peas cooked ‘alla Borghese’ omitting the milk and eggs. -Mix, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and serve hot. - - -_Risotto ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’_ - -Mince an onion, put it into a three-quart sauce-pan, and brown with -three ounces of good butter. Take out the onion, put in one pound of -rice, and half a wineglassful of Marsala. Reduce over a brisk fire, -then add one quart of stock, and boil hard so as to reduce in eighteen -minutes. Then take it off the fire and season with one ounce of good -butter, one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, three or four fowls’ -livers and mushrooms minced up fine, and some good gravy. Serve hot. - - * * * * * - - -SALADS. - -_Artichoke Salad._ - -Boil some small and tender artichokes and leave them to cool. Just -before serving drop into the middle of each, one drop of onion juice, -lay them on lettuce leaves, and pour sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. -123) over them. - - -_Beetroot Salad._ - -Slice two or three cold, boiled beetroots and place them in a -salad-bowl. Pour half a pint of sauce Tartara (see Sauces, p. 126) over -them and serve up with a garnish of parsley leaves. - - -_Broccoli Salad._ - -Boil one or two heads of broccoli in salted water, then strain them and -dry with a cloth. Make a sauce of pure olive oil, white wine vinegar, -very little salt and pepper, one tablespoonful of capers, and two or -three anchovies chopped up with some parsley. Pour over the broccoli -when cold and serve. - - -_Cabbage Salad._ - -Cut the heart of a white cabbage and half a head of celery into shreds. -Boil half a teacup of vinegar with one tablespoonful of butter, add -one tablespoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, and put in the -cabbage, but do not let it boil. Meanwhile beat up two eggs, mix them -in one cupful of hot milk, and boil to a custard. Then put the cabbage -into a salad-bowl, pour the custard over it, and mix well. Place in the -ice-box until wanted. - - -_‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad._ - -Wash and dry well two lettuces and a bunch of water-cresses, cut two -large cold, boiled beetroots into strips, add twelve radishes, six -hard-boiled eggs chopped up, and one sliced cucumber. Arrange the -lettuce leaves round a salad-bowl, mix all the rest with half a pint of -sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123) and serve. - - -_Cauliflower Salad._ - -Boil a large cauliflower, then put it in cold water; when quite cold, -break it into pieces, and put these to dry on a napkin before placing -in the salad-bowl. Add two shalots and some parsley chopped up, salt -and pepper to taste, and pour half a pint of sauce Mayonnaise (see -Sauces, p. 123) over it before serving. - - -_Celery Salad._ - -Cut the white stalks into small pieces and add half a pint of sauce -Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123) to every pound of celery. Sprinkle with -salt and pepper, mix well with the sauce, and serve the dish trimmed -with the green leaves of the celery. - - -_Cucumber and Tomato Salad._ - -Peel and slice two cucumbers, dry them on a napkin, then peel and slice -two large tomatoes. Cover the bottom of the salad-bowl with lettuce -leaves, and then alternate layers of the cucumbers and tomatoes, pour -sauce ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, p. 123) over and serve. - - -_‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad._ - -Wash the curly inside leaves of two heads of endive, dry them well, put -them into a salad-bowl, pour three tablespoonfuls of good olive oil -over them, and add a finely chopped shalot. Mix one tablespoonful of -honey (or sugar), one of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste, in a -cup, and pour over the salad just before serving. - - -_French Beans Salad._ - -Boil one pound of French beans until tender, drain, and put them in -cold water. Dry them on a napkin, and cut them lengthwise into four -pieces. Pour sauce ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, p. 123) over them just -before serving. - - -_‘All’ Italiana’ Salad._ - -Cut one carrot and one turnip into slices and cook them in boiling -soup. When cold mix them with two large cold, boiled potatoes, and one -beetroot cut into strips. Add a very little chopped leeks, or onion, -pour some sauce ‘Lombarda’ (see Sauces, p. 123) over the salad, and -garnish with water-cress. - - -_Lettuce Salad._ - -Use only the tender leaves, and let them stand in cold water until -wanted. Wipe them quite dry, then break with the fingers into the -following sauce: Two or three yolks of hard-boiled eggs beaten up with -one tablespoonful of pure olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, two more -tablespoonfuls of oil added gradually, and one of white wine vinegar, -and one teaspoonful of mustard. Mix well and garnish the salad-bowl -with nasturtium (Tropæolum) flowers. - - -_Lettuce Salad ‘alla Francese.’_ - -Put the tender leaves of lettuce into cold water till wanted; then wipe -them dry and stand them in circles in the salad-bowl. Sprinkle them -with half a teaspoonful of chopped taragon, the same of chervil, of -parsley and of chives, and pour the following sauce over them: mix in a -cup one tablespoonful of pure olive oil, one saltspoonful of salt, and -half a saltspoonful of pepper, stir well; add two more tablespoonfuls -of oil, and one of vinegar (if liked add two drops of onion juice). The -salad must not be mixed till wanted, and can be garnished with small -radishes or nasturtium flowers. - - -_Lettuce Salad with Veal (or Fish)._ - -Slice up a head of lettuce and chop up two boiled eggs in large pieces, -add half a pound of cold veal (or fish), cut into strips one inch long, -and mix in a salad-bowl. Then beat up the yolks of two raw eggs, -add a very little salt, and mix in gradually four tablespoonfuls of -pure olive oil, and one of white wine vinegar; a few drops of taragon -vinegar is an improvement. - - -_‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad._ - -Cut into small pieces one cold boiled beetroot and half an onion, add -some cold boiled French beans, two ounces of cold boiled asparagus -heads, two tablespoonfuls of cold cooked peas, one cold boiled carrot, -and one head of celery. Mix them well together, pour sauce Mayonnaise -(see Sauces, p. 123) over them, add the juice of a lemon, and serve. - - -_‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad._ - -Chop up six lettuce leaves, and three stalks of celery; cut the remains -of a cold boiled fowl into small pieces and mix with one tablespoonful -of white wine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste, in a salad-bowl. -Pour a cupful of sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123) over; and -garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of capers, -twelve stoned olives, and some small tender lettuce leaves. - - -_Potato Salad. No. 1._ - -Boil six potatoes; peel, slice them fine, mix with one or two small -onions cut into quarters, and half a tumbler of red wine; add salt -and pepper to taste, four or five tablespoonfuls of oil, and half a -tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, one tablespoonful of chervil -chopped fine, and some thin slices of anchovies, or, if preferred, -smoked herring. Stir well, but before serving take out the onions. - - -_Potato Salad. No. 2._ - -Boil some fine potatoes, peel and slice them. Slice some truffles -(boiled in white wine) very thin and put them in alternate layers with -potatoes into a salad-bowl. Season with four or five tablespoonfuls of -good olive oil, one dessert-spoonful of white wine vinegar, and salt -and pepper to taste. Garnish with slices of anchovies, stoned olives, -and (if liked) a few young chives. - - -_Potato Salad. No. 3._ - -Slice some boiled (or baked) potatoes thin, add one teaspoonful of -chopped parsley; mix apart six tablespoonfuls of good olive oil, two -of white wine vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful -of pepper, and pour over the potatoes. Add six or more (according to -taste) boned anchovies cut into strips, and twelve stoned olives. Thin -slices of cold beef or fowl can be mixed in this salad with advantage. - - -_Potato Salad. No. 4._ - -Boil six fine potatoes, slice them and place them to cool. Slice three -hard-boiled eggs, and mince four ounces of pickled tunny-fish fine. -Place alternate layers of minced tunny, and sliced potato and egg, -in the salad-bowl, sprinkle the last layer with chopped chervil, and -season the dish with pure olive oil, white wine vinegar, pepper and a -very little salt, mixed separately and poured over before serving. - - -_‘Alla Russa’ Salad._ - -Cut up two boiled carrots, one small turnip, half a bunch of asparagus -(the green part) one small beetroot, and some cold chicken or -partridge, into dice, take some cold boiled young French beans, and -green peas, one tablespoonful of capers, some stoned olives, slices -of anchovies, and some prawns. Make a sauce of pure olive oil (a good -deal), a little vinegar, pepper, half a pinch cayenne, some mustard, a -spoonful of caviare, and one finely chopped shalot. - - -_Spanish Onion Salad._ - -Peel and slice two large Spanish onions and two cucumbers. Put them -into iced water for twenty minutes, then drain, and dry them well on a -cloth. Arrange the slices of onion and cucumber alternately on a dish, -pour sauce ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, p. 123), over them and serve. - -_N.B._--Cucumbers should if possible always be kept on ice, and never -be put into salted water. - - -_Summer Salad. No. 1._ - -Take three heads of fresh lettuce, one of celery, a little chopped -taragon and chervil, and one or two shalots. Season with five -tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil, two of white wine vinegar, one -teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Stir well before -serving. Cold, boiled haricot beans are a good addition, and also half -a pound of cold meat cut in very thin slices. - - -_Summer Salad. No. 2._ - -Take two large cucumbers, and one head of celery, peel and slice; add a -bunch of red radishes. Add six cold, boiled young artichokes cut into -quarters. Sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, mix, and pour sauce -‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, p. 123) over just before serving. - - -_Tomato Salad. No. 1._ - -Scald[18] and peel ripe tomatoes and put them in ice. Cut them into -thin slices and put on a flat dish. In the centre of each slice put one -teaspoonful of sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123), and garnish with -sprigs of parsley. Or the tomato can be cut in two, laid on a young -lettuce leaf, and sauce Mayonnaise poured over them. - -[18] Put the tomatoes in a wire basket and plunge them into boiling -water for one minute. If left too long in the water they get soft. - - -_Tomato Salad. No. 2._ - -Scald and peel twelve or eighteen small yellow tomatoes. Pile them on -a dish like plums, garnish with young lettuce leaves, and pour the -following sauce over them: mix well in a cup one tablespoonful of pure -olive oil, one saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, -add, stirring all the time, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and one of -vinegar, and, if the flavour is liked, add two drops of onion juice. - - -_Tomato Salad. No. 3._ - -Peel round red tomatoes of equal size, and scoop out a bit of the fruit -from the stem end. Keep them on ice till wanted, then fill them high -with sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123) and celery cut into shreds -of half an inch long. Place each on a young lettuce leaf on which a -little sauce Mayonnaise has been put, and arrange on a flat dish. -(Chopped hard-boiled eggs and lettuce may be used instead of celery.) - - -_Tomato Salad. No. 4._ - -Scald and peel six fine tomatoes and put them in ice, cut them into -very thin slices in a salad-bowl so as to keep the juice. Season with -salt and pepper to taste, two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, -and, if liked, one small teaspoonful of chives. Mix well and serve as -cold as possible. - - -_Tomato Salad. No. 5._ - -Take round tomatoes (not too big), fill them as in No. 3, but do not -let the stuffing stand out beyond the fruit. Then put small moulds, -or cups, on ice, and pour in one-eighth of an inch of clear aspic -jelly; when set, place a tomato (the filled side uppermost) into each -mould, and pour more jelly round it and over it. Ice well, turn out the -tomatoes on a dish garnished with sliced lettuce or watercress, and -serve with sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, p. 123) separate. - - -_Tomato Jelly Salad._ - -Boil five or six tomatoes until they are soft with one teaspoonful -of salt, one of sugar, half a teaspoonful of thyme, a saltspoonful -of pepper, one slice of onion, one bay leaf, and three cloves. Then -add enough calves’ feet jelly (or isinglass) to set the tomato juice, -strain, and pour into a mould on ice. If the jelly is in the shape of a -ring fill the centre with curled celery, mix with sauce Mayonnaise (see -Sauces, p. 123), and garnish with lettuce cut into shreds; if solid put -the celery and sauce Mayonnaise round the jelly. - - -_Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of)._ - -Scald and peel twelve small round tomatoes, cut off the stem end, take -out the seeds, and put them on ice. Meanwhile chop up fine the inside -of a head of celery, mix with some sauce ‘Francese’ (see Sauces, p. -123), and fill the tomatoes with it. Place each tomato on a fresh -lettuce leaf, and pour a seasoning of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper -over all. - - -_Watercress Salad._ - -Wash three or four bunches of watercress and drain them, slice four or -five cold boiled potatoes very thin and mix with the following sauce: -four tablespoonfuls of oil, half a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and -black pepper to taste, one shalot minced up fine, half a pinch of -cayenne, and half a tablespoonful of sugar. - - * * * * * - - - SAUCES - -_Roux for Sauces._ - -Roux is necessary to thicken and give body to sauces. Put one -tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a sauce-pan and cook till -the flour has lost any raw taste. Then put the sauce-pan on the hob and -add the stock, or milk slowly (one cupful for every tablespoonful of -butter or flour), and stir till smooth. For white sauces take care the -flour does not colour; for dark sauces let it brown, but take care it -does not burn. - - -_Agro Dolce Sauce._ - -Take two tablespoonfuls of sugar (brown or white), half a cupful of -currants, a quarter of a bar of grated chocolate (about four ounces), -one tablespoonful of chopped candied orange, one of lemon peel, one of -capers, and one cupful of vinegar. Mix well together and let it soak -for two hours. Pour it over the wild boar, venison, or veal, and simmer -for ten minutes. Some add one tablespoonful of pinocchi (pine seeds), -or a dozen almonds chopped up fine. - - -_Bearnese Sauce._ - -Take five yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and one -of pepper. Stir, and as soon as the eggs begin to consolidate take -the sauce-pan off the fire and add one ounce of butter. Then put the -sauce-pan on the fire again and stir in one ounce more butter; repeat -this twice, then add one tablespoonful of chopped tarragon, and one -teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. This sauce must be stiff and have the -consistency of Mayonnaise. - - -_Béchamel Sauce. No. 1._ - -Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a -sauce-pan and stir for five minutes. Pour one and a half pints of -boiling milk in gradually, beating well with a whisk. Add a bouquet, -half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, a pinch of -salt, and three ounces of chopped mushrooms. Cook for a quarter of an -hour, and rub through a fine sieve. - - -_Béchamel Sauce. No. 2._ - -Mix three tablespoonfuls of butter and three of flour to a smooth -paste, put ten peppercorns, half an onion, half a carrot sliced, a -small piece of mace, two teacupfuls of white stock, a pinch of salt -and of grated nutmeg, and a bouquet, in a stew-pan; simmer for half an -hour, stirring often, then add one teacupful of cream, boil at once, -strain and serve. - - -_Béchamel Sauce. No. 3._ - -Cut a thick slice of veal or part of a knuckle into small cubes and -put them into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, two medium-sized -onions and two carrots sliced. Cook for ten minutes, taking care it -should not brown, then put in five ounces of flour and stir for five -minutes over the fire. Pour in three quarts of strong white stock and -one of good cream. Add three and a half ounces of minced mushrooms, one -bouquet, one saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. -Let it boil, and then stand the sauce-pan to simmer on the hob for one -and a half hours, skimming often. Strain through a sieve into a large -sauce-pan to jelly, add two wineglassfuls of cream and reduce till the -sauce clings to the spoon. Then strain again. Stir occasionally while -it is cooling, or a skin will form on the top of the sauce, in which -case it must be strained again. - - -_Béchamel Sauce (Maigre). No. 4._ - -Slice three onions and one carrot, and put them into a sauce-pan with -two whole onions and seven ounces of butter. Cook for five minutes, -then add seven ounces of flour, stir, and add three quarts of milk. Put -in a bunch of parsley and half an ounce of salt. Reduce for a quarter -of an hour stirring all the time, then strain through a sieve. Cover -the sauce with a thin layer of melted butter, and it will keep some -days. When wanted boil and stir in three and a half ounces of butter -for every quart of sauce. - - -_Broccoli (Sauce for)._ - -Mix one tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan with one tumbler of -water and a little salt. Stir until it boils. When the flour has quite -lost its raw taste, stir in two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a -lemon, and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. - - -_Caper Sauce. No. 1._ - -Mince an anchovy and dissolve it in oil and butter over a slow fire, -add four ounces of capers, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and some -chopped parsley. This sauce can be served hot or cold. - - -_Caper Sauce ‘alla Genovese.’ No. 2._ - -Mince up one small onion with two ounces of capers and three-quarters -of an ounce of anchovies. Brown them in a sauce-pan with a little -butter, then add one cupful of broth or good gravy, a little vinegar, -and a pinch of sweet herbs. Boil up twice and serve with any boiled -meat. - - -_Caper Sauce ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 3._ - -Take four ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, pepper and -salt to taste, and mix well over the fire in a sauce-pan. Do not let -it boil, and just before serving add two ounces of capers and one -teaspoonful of white wine vinegar. - - -_Cold Caper Sauce. No. 4._ - -Take pure olive oil, four ounces of capers and the juice of a lemon. -Mix them well together and serve. - - -_Butter Sauce. No. 1._ - -Put two ounces of flour into one quart of water, with one and a half -ounces of butter, and a little salt and pepper. Cook for twenty -minutes, stirring well, then strain into a covered bowl and put into -a Bain-marie. Just before serving boil again, take off the fire, add -twelve ounces of butter cut into pieces, and the juice of one fine -lemon. The heat of the sauce must melt the butter as it must not be put -on the fire again. If the sauce is too thick mix in half a wineglassful -of hot water. - - -_Butter Sauce. No. 2. (Melted Butter.)_ - -Take eight ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of salt, one of pepper, -and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon over -the fire until the butter is half melted, then take it off and continue -to stir until it is quite liquid. By taking the butter off the fire -before it is all melted, it will have a pleasant taste of fresh cream; -this is lost when fully cooked. - - -_Francese Sauce._ - -Stir six yolks of eggs, seventeen ounces of butter, salt and pepper -to taste, well together. When they begin to consolidate mix in one -wineglassful of purée of tomatoes passed through a fine sieve, one -ounce of chicken jelly, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one -teaspoonful of capsicum vinegar. - - -_Lombarda Sauce._ - -Put two tumblers of white roux and one of chicken jelly into a -sauce-pan, reduce, and add three yolks of eggs mixed with two ounces -of butter and the juice of half a lemon. Before it boils take the -sauce-pan off the fire and add one tumbler of thick Tomato sauce (see -Sauces, p. 126) (or conserve), strain, and just before serving add one -tablespoonful of sweet herbs minced fine. - - -_Mayonnaise Sauce._ - -Put one yolk of egg (quite free from any white), half a teaspoonful -of salt, and a pinch of cayenne, into a bowl standing in ice. Stir -constantly, and add one cupful of pure olive oil, drop by drop. The -goodness of the sauce depends upon adding the oil slowly. When it -begins to get thick, alternate a few drops of tarragon vinegar with the -oil till you have put in one and a half teaspoonfuls of vinegar (lemon -juice may be used instead). In summer it is a good plan to mix the yolk -of a hard-boiled egg with the raw one; the sauce is made more quickly -and is less likely to curdle. - - -_Mayonnaise Monte Bianco Sauce._ - -To the above Mayonnaise sauce add half a cupful of stiff whipped cream -just before serving. - - -_Mayonnaise Sauce ‘alla Ravigote.’_ - -Take a few sprigs of tarragon, parsley, chervil, watercress, two or -three chives, and a leaf of spinach or lettuce, and pound them in a -mortar with some drops of lemon juice. Squeeze out the juice of the -herbs, and mix it with mayonnaise sauce (as above). A few green peas -will add to the colour and consistency of the sauce. - - -_Olandese Sauce._ - -Rub four ounces of butter to a cream in a sauce-pan or a bowl, add four -yolks of eggs, beat well together, then put in half a teaspoonful of -salt, the juice of half a lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and one cupful of -hot water poured in by degrees. Mix well and put into a Bain-marie. -Stir until the sauce becomes of the consistency of thick cream, but -be careful it does not boil. Take it off the fire and stir for some -minutes. ‘Olandese’ sauce ought to be quite smooth and creamy. - - -_‘Alla Panna’ Sauce._ - -Melt half a pound of butter, add a little flour, salt, pepper, and -grated nutmeg. Stir until thick, then add one pint of cream, a little -chopped parsley, and heat for five minutes. - - -_Suprema Sauce. No. 1._ - -Put four quarts of good stock into a sauce-pan with two pounds of -knuckle of veal and the body of a fowl. Boil well, skimming off the -grease, add one teaspoonful of salt, two onions (one of them stuck with -cloves), one bouquet, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Simmer on the hob -until the veal is quite cooked, then strain. Add three tablespoonfuls -of white roux and stir over the fire until it boils. Skim, and put it -into a Bain-marie to reduce. Just before serving boil it again and add -one ounce of butter and three tablespoonfuls of milk of sweet almonds. - - -_Suprema Sauce. No. 2._ - -Put the body of a fowl into a sauce-pan, cover it with water, and cook -quickly. Take it out as soon as it boils, drain, and wash it well. Then -put the fowl into a clean sauce-pan, with one quart of veal broth, one -dessert-spoonful of salt, and a bouquet. Cook for forty-five minutes, -then pour the broth through a strainer into another sauce-pan with two -tablespoonfuls of white roux, and stir well. - - -_Tartara Sauce. No. 1._ - -Take one shallot, one tablespoonful of capers, six sprigs of tarragon, -six of chervil, and two gherkins; chop all up very fine and put them -into an earthen bowl with two raw yolks of eggs, half a teaspoonful of -ground mustard, a small pinch of salt, and one of pepper, then stir in -(a drop at a time) one teaspoonful of good wine vinegar, and then a -cupful of pure olive oil. - - -_Tartara Sauce. No. 2._ - -Wash and mince two anchovies with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. -Mince separately some parsley, tarragon, one shallot (or a small -onion). Put them into a bowl with one tablespoonful of white wine -vinegar, one and a half of olive oil, one of French mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. Beat up well with a wooden spoon till quite -smooth. - - -_Tomato Sauce. No. 1._ - -Mince a quarter of an onion, half a stalk of celery, a few leaves of -sweet basil, and a bunch of parsley, up fine. Add half a cupful of -pure olive oil, a pinch of salt and one of pepper, and cut eight or -nine tomatoes into slices. Boil until the sauce is as thick as cream, -stirring occasionally, then strain through a sieve and serve. Eight or -nine tablespoonfuls of conserve can be used instead of fresh tomatoes. - - -_Tomato Sauce. No. 2._ - -Take four pounds of tomatoes, cut them in two and put them into a -two-quart sauce-pan with two wineglassfuls of water, two saltspoonfuls -of salt, one of pepper, and a bouquet. Cover the sauce-pan and boil for -forty minutes, stirring often to prevent burning; then strain. Make a -roux in another sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, and three-quarters -of an ounce of flour. Cook for three minutes, mixing well. Take the -roux off the fire and pour the tomatoes into it a little at a time, -stirring to keep it smooth. Add two wineglassfuls of stock, put on the -fire, and cook for twenty minutes, stirring all the time. - - -_Vellutata Sauce._ - -Put one pound of knuckle of veal and any scraps you have of fowl into a -well-buttered sauce-pan with two or three slices of ham, two carrots, -one onion, and one tumbler of veal broth. When the broth is reduced add -twelve mushrooms, two or three shallots, salt and pepper to taste, a -bouquet, and enough veal broth to cover the meat. Boil, skim off the -fat, and let it simmer for one and a half hours. It will keep some days -if well corked in a cold place. Before using mix white roux with it. - - * * * * * - - -_Sorrel Purée._ - -Nip the stalks off a peck of sorrel, wash well, drain, and chop up fine -with one head of well-washed lettuce and a small bunch of chervil. Put -all into a sauce-pan and stir over a hot fire for three minutes, then -place in the oven until well dissolved. Add one and a half ounces of -fresh butter, stir until it bubbles, add half a pint of good stock or -beef gravy, and cook for five minutes. - - -_Sorrel Purée (Maigre)._ - -Take sorrel as above, but instead of stock or gravy, add two yolks of -eggs and half a cupful of cream. - - -_Sorrel Stewed._ - -Wash clean the necessary quantity of sorrel, boil until tender, then -rub through a sieve into a stew-pan. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of -Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119), a little salt and sugar, and two -or three ounces of fresh butter. Stew for a few minutes and serve. - - * * * * * - - -SOUPS. - -_Artichoke Soup._ - -Boil three large artichokes for forty minutes, then dry and cut -them in pieces and rub through a sieve. Put one quart of milk in an -earthen pot, boil, add the artichokes, two ounces of butter, and three -tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir until the milk thickens, add pepper and -salt to taste, and boil for ten minutes, adding chicken forcemeat balls -just before serving. (For the forcemeat balls take four tablespoonfuls -of minced raw fowl, some grated bread, the white of an egg beaten up, -and a little salt and pepper. Place the balls in boiling water as you -make them, and boil for ten minutes. Take them out with the strainer -and put them into the soup.) - - -_Artichoke Soup (Purée)._ - -Cut the bottom out of several artichokes, blanch them, remove the -chokes and boil with a little salt, flour, and lemon juice. Then mash -them and mix with one (or more, according to the number of people) -cupful of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, p. 119); rub through a sieve, add -enough good stock to make a thick soup, and serve with small croûtons -(fried bread). - - -_Asparagus Soup._ - -Boil a bunch of asparagus in salted water for half an hour, then cut -off their heads and put them into a soup-tureen. Meanwhile boil one -quart of milk, mix three tablespoonfuls of flour and one of butter -together, and add to the milk; stir until it thickens. Rub the rest of -the asparagus through a sieve and add to the milk. Take it off the -fire, season with salt and pepper, and pour it into the tureen on to -the asparagus heads. - - -_Carrot Soup._ - -Put eight or ten finely sliced carrots, one onion, two heads of celery -sliced, five ounces of fresh white haricot beans, four ounces of -butter, and salt and pepper to taste, in a sauce-pan. Cook over a slow -fire for one hour, and stir from time to time. Then add about one and -a half quarts of good stock, boil for one and a half hours, and rub -through a sieve. Thin the purée with three quarts of stock, add half an -ounce of sugar, boil for half an hour, and serve with croûtons (fried -bread). - - -_Chestnut Soup._ - -Peel some roast chestnuts, warm them in butter, moisten them with stock -and white wine, and simmer over a slow fire until soft. Then pound them -in a mortar, rub through a sieve, and mix with a thin purée of game. -Heat in a Bain-marie, and serve with small croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Lentil Soup. No. 1._ - -Soak one pint of lentils in cold water all night. Strain and wash them -again, then put them in an earthen pot with two quarts of broth and -simmer for one and a half hours. Fry one sliced onion, a little chopped -parsley and thyme, and one bay leaf in two ounces of butter. Add these -to the lentils and simmer for another half-hour. Rub through a sieve -and boil, season with salt and pepper. Serve with croûtons (fried -bread). - - -_Lentil Soup. No. 2._ - -Put about half a pint of well-cleaned, dry lentils into boiling water -in an earthen pot. Be careful to remove those which float to the -surface. Leave the rest to cook until they are quite soft, then take -them out and strain them. Meanwhile mix two or three anchovies, a bunch -of parsley and some sage, and mix with some good oil in a sauce-pan. -When well browned put in the lentils. Stir well, add more oil, and cook -over a slow fire, stirring from time to time. When ready, mix in some -strained stock, and serve with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Lettuce Soup._ - -Put the mealy part of four potatoes into boiling consommé, the blanched -leaves of two heads of celery, one lettuce chopped up, one pint of -green peas, and two large tablespoonfuls of flour well stirred in cold -broth. Boil for one and a half hours, and serve with croûtons (fried -bread). - - -_Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale.’_ - -Boil and rub two pounds of potatoes through a sieve, put them in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of good butter, a little salt, and half a -tumbler of cream (or milk). Simmer until it is thick like Polentina -(see p. 135), then add six yolks of eggs to consolidate it to a paste. -Cut into small dice, throw them into boiling soup, and cook for five -minutes. Just before serving sprinkle a little grated Parmesan cheese -into the soup. - - -_Potato Soup ‘alla Romana.’_ - -Parboil four large potatoes in one quart of water, when half-cooked -strain off the water and pour one pint of boiling water on the -potatoes; add one bay leaf, half an onion, one head of celery, and -some chopped parsley. Boil over a slow fire in an earthen pan, add two -ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix well. Rub -the potatoes through a sieve into an earthen pot, add boiling milk, a -little at a time, and serve hot. - - -_Pumpkin Soup. No. 1._ - -Cut two or three slices of white pumpkin into small dice. Put them -into a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, and cook till they take a -golden colour. Mince up one onion, some parsley, sweet basil, celery, -thyme, and (for those who like it) one clove of garlic. Mix well, and -add two cloves, one quart of water, and some butter, or pure olive oil, -or both. Boil for one hour, serve very hot with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Pumpkin Soup. No. 2._ - -Take a slice (about one and a half pounds) of a large yellow pumpkin, -peel it and remove the seeds. Cut into small dice and put them into -a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, one ounce -of sugar, and half a tumblerful of water. Boil for two hours, then -drain, and put back into the sauce-pan with one and a half tumblers -of well-boiled milk. As soon as it boils pour into the tureen and add -croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Onion Soup. No. 1._ - -Peel and cut three large Spanish onions in slices. Put two ounces of -butter into a frying-pan, and add the onions when the butter is hot. -Just before they are browned take them off the fire and put them into a -sauce-pan with two quarts of good stock. Boil slowly for half an hour, -and add a little pepper and salt. Strain through a sieve and serve very -hot. Add croûtons (fried bread) to the soup. - - -_Onion Soup ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ No. 2._ - -Chop up a few onions, warm them in butter, but take care they do not -brown. Stir in three tablespoonfuls of purée of white haricot beans, -add a pinch of grated nutmeg, and rub through a sieve. If the purée is -too thick add a little stock. Serve with croûtons (fried bread) in the -soup. - - -_Palestine Soup._ - -Scrape and slice six or eight large Jerusalem artichokes and put them -into cold water. Then place them in boiling water, boil for one hour, -and rub through a cullender. Mix them with two ounces of butter and -three tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour them into one quart of boiling -milk, stirring continually until thick. Season with salt and pepper, -and serve with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Pea Soup._ - -Shell four pounds of fresh green peas, put them in an earthen pot, -cover them with cold water, and boil for twenty minutes. Take out one -cupful of peas. Rub the rest through a sieve, and mix in an earthen pot -with one quart of milk, four ounces of butter, and two tablespoonfuls -of flour. Stir until the soup is thick, add a pinch of salt and of -grated nutmeg, and the whole peas, and serve very hot. - - -_Polentina ‘alla Veneziana.’_ - -Put two large tablespoonfuls of fine yellow Indian-corn meal into one -quart of boiling milk. Stir continually for twenty minutes to prevent -burning, then add one teaspoonful of salt (or more to taste), and four -to six ounces of fresh butter. Serve with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Sorrel Soup._ - -Wash and dry two bunches of sorrel. Chop it fine, and cook with -two ounces of butter until it becomes a pulp. Stir in one spoonful -of flour, salt and pepper to taste, and a cupful of water. When it -boils add two or more yolks of eggs and a cupful of cream. Serve with -croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese.’_ - -Boil two pounds of spinach, mince fine, and put it in a sauce-pan with -four ounces of melted butter. Stir well, add salt to taste, then take -off the fire and mix in two eggs, a little grated cheese, and a pinch -of grated nutmeg. Pour this purée into boiling broth, take it off -the fire after a few minutes, and cover with a salamander; this will -coagulate the eggs and turn the purée into a soft green paste. Serve -very hot with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Tomato Soup. No. 1._ - -Simmer one quart of tomatoes (or tomato conserve) in an earthen pot -(or enamelled sauce-pan) with one pint of good stock (or water); add -one bay leaf, one stalk of celery, a little parsley, six peppercorns, -and one teaspoonful of sugar. Meanwhile melt one tablespoonful of good -butter in another sauce-pan, and fry one sliced onion, but do not brown -it; then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well, see that it cooks -without browning. Dilute with a little of the tomato soup, season with -salt, and add the rest of the tomatoes. Strain through a sieve, beat it -up before serving, and sprinkle small dice of fried bread in the soup. - - -_Tomato Soup (Maigre). No. 2._ - -Stew eight or ten tomatoes thoroughly, then rub them through a sieve, -and put them in a pot with one tablespoonful of soda. When the foaming -is over add two tablespoonfuls of butter (a little at a time), one -teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a pinch of -cayenne. Meanwhile heat one quart of milk in a Bain-marie for about ten -minutes, and add to the tomatoes (beating well together) just before -serving. - - -_Turnip Soup._ - -Parboil ten or twelve turnips cut into fine strips. Strain, cook them -over a slow fire in a stew-pan with a minced onion browned in three -ounces of butter, add some broth (or fish soup for maigre). Serve with -croûtons (fried bread), and one ounce grated Parmesan cheese. - - -_Vegetable Soup (Mixed)._ - -Cut two potatoes and one onion in pieces. Fry the onion in two ounces -of butter till browned, then pour it over the potatoes in an earthen -pot, add two tablespoonfuls of rice, one sliced carrot, and one quart -of water. Boil for one hour, then pass through a sieve and put back in -the pot. Moisten two ounces of fine Indian-corn meal with a little cold -milk, add to the vegetables and then pour in half a pint of milk. Stir -until it boils, season with pepper and salt, and serve with croûtons -(fried bread). - - -_Vegetable and Cream Soup._ - -Boil three lettuces, four heads of celery, two onions, a handful of -chervil, a little sorrel, tarragon, and thyme, in one quart of water -till well stewed. Strain off the herbs half an hour before dinner, let -the soup cool, and add one pint of fresh cream with the yolks of three -eggs. Stir well, put it on the fire to heat, but do not let it boil. - - * * * * * - - -_Spinach ‘al Burro.’_ - -Wash, blanch, and chop up fine two pounds of spinach. Put it into -an earthen pot with fresh butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Add -two or three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a pint of milk, mixing -continually. Serve hot with croûtons (fried bread), as a garnish. - - -_Spinach ‘alla Crema.’_ - -Wash half a peck of spinach in several waters to get the grit out, and -put it into a covered earthen pan on a brisk fire. Stir now and then to -prevent its burning, and after fifteen minutes put in one tablespoonful -of salt. Cook five minutes more, then drain, and when dry chop it up -very fine. Mix one and a half tablespoonfuls of fresh butter, and one -of flour, in an earthen pot, and when half-cooked add the spinach and a -little salt and pepper. Cook for five minutes, pour in half a cupful of -good cream, and cook five minutes more, stirring constantly to prevent -burning. Serve with croûtons (fried bread), or hard boiled eggs sliced. - - -_Spinach Croquettes._ - -Take two pounds of boiled spinach, strain, and chop it up fine. Put it -into an earthen pan with four ounces of butter, some sweet marjoram -chopped up, allspice, sugar, and grated lemon peel. Mix well over -the fire, then put in one tumbler of milk, and when it boils add two -beaten-up eggs. When thick and cooled roll up into croquets, meanwhile -make the following batter: two handfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of -good olive oil, half a glass of white wine, and a little salt, well -mixed together. Roll the croquets in this and fry. Serve hot. - - -_Spinach ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina.’_ - -Clean and wash eight bunches of spinach, cook them in salted boiling -water, and then put them into cold. Dry well, chop up very fine, put -them into a sauce-pan and mix well with four ounces of butter, eight -ounces of fresh curds (out of which all the water has been pressed), -two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and three yolks of eggs. -When cold make small balls or rolls of the spinach, flour them well, -and throw them into boiling water. As they rise to the surface take -them out with a strainer, pour melted butter over them, sprinkle with -grated Parmesan cheese, and serve at once. - - -_Spinach Fried._ - -Put two or three bunches of spinach into an earthen pot with a finely -chopped up shallot, and two ounces of butter, and mix well. When -cooked, take off the fire, chop up very fine, add one egg, one ounce -of grated cheese, a pinch of allspice, and roll up into balls or -croquets; sprinkle with flour, and fry over a quick fire. Serve very -hot garnished with fried parsley. (_N.B._--Any vegetable, cardoon, -cauliflower, etc., which is left over, can be fried in this way.) - - -_Spinach Pudding with Mushrooms. (Bodino con Funghi.)_ - -Wash a sufficient quantity of spinach well, boil it in salted water -for a few minutes, drain and squeeze out the water thoroughly; then -pound it in a mortar and finally rub it through a sieve. Then put it -in an earthen pot with a good-sized piece of butter and a few drops of -lemon juice; leave it to boil for a short time, then empty it into a -dish, and when cold add the yolks of two or three well-beaten-up eggs. -Put it into a well-buttered shape, leave an empty space in the middle, -and cook slowly in a Bain-marie for one hour with fire above and -below. When cooked, turn out on a dish and fill the empty space with -small mushrooms cut up into little pieces, which have been previously -prepared as in the recipe ‘alla Spagnuola’ (p. 75). - - -_Spinach ‘in Riccioli.’_ - -Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat up two eggs, -season them with salt and pepper, and mix enough spinach with them -to make them green. Put a little oil into the frying-pan, and when -well heated pour a little of the egg in, turning the pan about so that -the pancake should be as thin as a piece of paper, and dry. Toss if -necessary. Take it out, repeat with the rest of the egg, then take -the pancakes, place them one on the top of the other, and cut them -into pieces the width of a finger and about two inches long. Fry them -in butter and grate a little Parmesan cheese over them. They make an -effective garnish. - - -_Spinach Soufflé._ - -Take a cupful of spinach prepared as in ‘Spinach alla Crema.’ Beat -up one yolk of an egg, mix with the spinach and stir over the fire -until the egg is set. Then let it cool, and before serving stir the -well-beaten whites of three eggs lightly into it. Fill china cups, or -buttered paper forms, half full, put them into a hot oven for ten or -fifteen minutes, and serve at once. If too little baked, or not served -at once, the soufflé will be spoiled. - - * * * * * - - -_Tomatoes Broiled._ - -Slice large ripe tomatoes (without peeling them), broil or toast them -until slightly browned. Place them on a hot dish and pour boiling -melted butter, mixed with a very little good wine vinegar, salt, -pepper, and mustard, over them. - - -_Tomatoes ‘in Conchiglia.’_ - -Cut five or six tomatoes in half (do not peel them), put them in an -earthen pan with bits of butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. -Bake for about one hour, or until the tomatoes are soft. Meanwhile -prepare squares of buttered toast, place a half tomato on each square -of toast, pour sauce ‘alla Panna’ (see Sauces, p. 125) round them, and -serve. - - -_Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 1._ - -Scald, peel, and mash up eight or ten tomatoes, add one teaspoonful -of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Put a layer of bread-crumbs -into a shallow baking-dish, lay the tomatoes on them, and sprinkle with -one tablespoonful of sugar, and a few drops of onion juice. Then cover -the tomatoes with a large cupful of bread crumbs moistened with one -tablespoonful of melted butter. Bake half an hour in a hot oven, and -serve in the baking-dish. - - -_Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 2._ - -Scald and peel six or eight tomatoes, slice off their tops, and scoop -out a little of the inside. Drop a little oil into each tomato and a -small pinch of salt and pepper, replace their tops, sprinkle them with -grated bread, salt and pepper, place each on a slice of bread in a -tinned dish, add a little pure olive oil, and bake for twenty minutes. - - -_Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ No. 3._ - -Scald and peel six or eight tomatoes, take out their seeds, and place -them in a tinned dish. Meanwhile mix one tablespoonful of flour, one -of fresh butter, four or five fresh mushrooms, some parsley chopped -up with one shallot, a little salt and pepper, and some thick purée -(or conserve) of tomatoes in a sauce-pan, and stir well. Fill each -tomato with this, sprinkle them with grated bread, put four or five -tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil in the tin dish, and bake for ten -minutes, then brown with a salamander. - - -_Tomatoes ‘Fritti.’_ - -Cut six fine ripe tomatoes in half and put them in a shallow pan with -the peel downwards. Add four ounces of butter, sprinkle with pepper and -salt, and put them in the oven for ten minutes, then fry them slowly on -the fire (do not turn them). When cooked place them carefully on a hot -dish, put the pan on the fire again, and brown the butter, adding two -tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, then add one pint of milk, and stir -until it boils. Season with salt and pepper, pour it over the tomatoes -and serve hot. - - -_Tomatoes ‘alla Graticola.’_ - -Cut four or five tomatoes in half without peeling them. Put them on -the gridiron, dust them with salt and pepper, and cook over a moderate -fire. Then place them on a hot dish and pour a white sauce over them. -Serve with croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Tomatoes Iced._ - -Scald and peel small round tomatoes, ice them, and serve them whole -with sauce ‘Francese’ (see Sauces, p. 123) separate. - - -_Tomatoes ‘all’ Indiana.’_ - -Wash half a pint of rice in several waters. Take two pounds of boiled -and strained tomatoes (or tomato conserve), season with a little salt -and allspice. Put alternate layers of tomato and of rice in a pie-dish, -and finish off with a layer of tomato covered with grated bread-crumbs -moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate oven for a good -half-hour, and serve in the pie-dish. - - -_Tomatoes ‘al Pane.’_ - -Peel and cut in slices six or more (according to the size of your dish) -ripe tomatoes, and lay them in a baking-dish with alternate layers of -bread-crumbs and bits of good butter. Season each layer of tomatoes -with sugar, pepper, and salt. The upper layer must be bread-crumbs -moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, -and serve in the baking-dish. - - -_Tomato Pudding._ - -Scald, peel, and slice eight tomatoes. Squeeze out three-quarters of -their juice into a bowl through a cloth, then chop them up with two -tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little salt, sugar, and pepper, and a -tablespoonful of melted butter. Pour them into a well-buttered mould -and put on the lid. Place the mould in a pot of boiling water, and boil -hard for one hour; then turn out on a dish. Meanwhile heat the tomato -juice, season with sugar, salt, and pepper, mix in one tablespoonful of -butter rolled in flour, boil one minute, then pour over the pudding and -serve. - - -_Tomato Purée._ - -Scald and peel about eighteen ounces of ripe tomatoes, and take out -the stem end. Cut them up and put them in an earthen pan with a little -salt, pepper, a bouquet, and one sliced onion. Stir over a moderate -fire, parboil, and then rub through a sieve. Make a roux with one -ounce of good butter and one tablespoonful of flour, cook for five -minutes, then pour the tomatoes into the roux, add two ounces of meat -jelly, and reduce for five minutes. Strain through a cullender and put -into a Bain-marie until wanted. - - -_Tomatoes ‘Ripieni.’_ - -Choose twelve large and smooth tomatoes, cut off the stem end and take -out the seeds. Put four ounces of grated bread, one quarter of an onion -minced, a little salt, and two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; mix -well and then fill the tomatoes with it. Put them in an earthen pan and -cook for half an hour over a hot fire, serve very hot. - - -_Tomatoes ‘al Riso.’_ - -Take the pulp of six tomatoes and put it in a sauce-pan with two ounces -of butter. Cook thoroughly, then strain through a sieve, add one large -cupful of consommé, and cook till reduced one quarter. Meanwhile cook -some rice in consommé, when done add the tomatoes, stir, and serve hot. - - -_Tomatoes Stewed._ - -Scald and peel six large fresh tomatoes and cut each into six pieces. -Cook in an earthen pot slowly for twenty minutes with one and a half -ounces of fresh butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one of pepper, and -half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Then add half a teaspoonful of -powdered sugar, stir well, cook for two or three minutes, and serve hot. - - -_Tomatoes ‘in Umido.’_ - -Scald, peel, and cut into bits twelve fine tomatoes, put them into -an earthen pan and cook slowly for about half an hour. Then add one -tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of sugar, some drops of onion juice, -and a little pepper and salt. Cook for twenty minutes, and serve hot. - -_Tomatoes ‘con Uova.’_ - -Choose round tomatoes of about equal size, and peel them. Cut off their -tops, take out their insides, and drop a raw egg into each, replace the -top as cover. Put the tomatoes into a baking-dish, and bake for about -ten minutes (until the eggs have set). Serve up on the baking-dish very -hot, with a sauce Béchamel (see Sauces, p. 119), or some brown gravy. - - * * * * * - - -_Truffles in Champagne._ - -Wash and brush well twelve truffles in warm water, then rinse them in -cold water and drain. Lay slices of bacon in the bottom of a stew-pan, -and place the truffles on them. Put in a bouquet, sprinkle with a -little salt, add some good stock, half a bottle of champagne, and boil. -Cover the pan well, put fire above and below, and cook for one hour. -See whether they are done (they should yield to the touch), then drain -well, and serve in a folded napkin. - - -_Truffles and Cheese._ - -Wash, brush, and clean eight ounces of truffles, and slice them. -Meanwhile fry four ounces of butter with one or two tablespoonfuls of -pure olive oil; put in the sliced truffles with four ounces of good -Swiss cheese cut in fine slices. Mix well together over a brisk fire -for ten minutes. Season with pepper and salt, and serve very hot with -croûtons (fried bread). - - -_Truffles (Maigre)._ - -Wash, brush, and clean some truffles, cut them in slices, and put them -in a stew-pan with some fish soup. Add a bouquet, season with pepper -and salt, and stew over a small fire. When done thicken the sauce with -a maigre roux, take out the bouquet, and serve hot. - - -_Truffles in Omelette._ - -Beat up eight fresh eggs for an omelette, add a very little salt and a -pinch of grated nutmeg. Cut up fine four ounces of truffles already -boiled in Madeira wine, warm up with one pint of good gravy reduced -with Madeira wine. Make the omelette, and put the truffles in as you -turn it over. - - -_Truffles ‘alla Panna.’_ - -Wash, brush, peel, and clean twenty or twenty-four truffles, and put -them into an earthen pan with four ounces of butter, a little salt, one -glass of white Rhine wine, and three tablespoonfuls of reduced stock. -Put a layer of sauce ‘alla Panna’ (see Sauces, p. 125) in the bottom of -a silver (or enamelled) sauce-pan, then a third of the truffles, cover -them again with a layer of sauce, add half the remaining truffles, and -some more sauce; at last the rest of the truffles must be covered with -sauce sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and browned quickly with -the salamander just before serving. The truffles may be cooked and -served in shells instead of a sauce-pan. - - -_Truffles Sautés._ - -Wash, brush, and clean about one pound of truffles, cut them in thin -slices, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of -butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and -a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Warm over the fire, then add one -gill of broth, and half a tablespoonful of flour mixed with half a -tablespoonful of butter. Stir well, boil, and serve on toast. - - -_Truffles Stewed._ - -Wash, brush, and clean some truffles, cut them in slices, and put them -into a small stew-pan with three or four slices of ham, a pinch of -pepper, one cupful (or more) of good gravy, and a bouquet. Stew gently -over a small fire until the truffles are tender, take out the ham and -the bouquet, add some good brown gravy, and serve. - - -_Truffles ‘sul tovagliolo.’_ - -Wash, brush, and clean some truffles thoroughly, boil with veal stock -and a glass of Madeira wine. Then serve in a napkin with good fresh -butter separate. - - - Printed by T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to Her Majesty at the - Edinburgh University Press - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN -KITCHEN *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm -concept and trademark. 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Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/69370-0.zip b/old/69370-0.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index d005850..0000000 --- a/old/69370-0.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/69370-h.zip b/old/69370-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 9c81771..0000000 --- a/old/69370-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/69370-h/69370-h.htm b/old/69370-h/69370-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 19c717d..0000000 --- a/old/69370-h/69370-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5444 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> -<head> - <meta charset="UTF-8"> - <title> - Leaves from Our Tuscan Kitchen, by Janet Ross—A Project Gutenberg eBook - </title> - <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> - <style> /* <![CDATA[ */ - -body { - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; -} - - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; -} - -p { - margin-top: .51em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .49em; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} -.p4 {margin-top: 4em;} - -hr { - width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: 33.5%; - margin-right: 33.5%; - clear: both; -} - -hr.tb {width: 45%; margin-left: 27.5%; margin-right: 27.5%;} -hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} -@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } - -div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} -h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} - -table { - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; -} -table.autotable { border-collapse: collapse; width: 60%;} -table.autotable td, -table.autotable th { padding: 4px; } -.x-ebookmaker table {width: 95%;} - -.tdl {text-align: left;} -.tdr {text-align: right;} -.tdc {text-align: center;} -.page {width: 3em; vertical-align: top;} - -.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ - /* visibility: hidden; */ - position: absolute; - left: 92%; - font-size: smaller; - text-align: right; - font-style: normal; - font-weight: normal; - font-variant: normal; - text-indent: 0; -} - -.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;} - -.right {text-align: right; text-indent: 0em;} - -.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - -.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} - -.caption {font-weight: bold;} - -/* Images */ - -img { - max-width: 100%; - height: auto; -} -.w50 {width: 50%;} -.x-ebookmaker .w50 {width: 75%;} -.figcenter { - margin: auto; - text-align: center; - page-break-inside: avoid; - max-width: 100%; -} - -/* Footnotes */ - -.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - -.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - -.fnanchor { - vertical-align: super; - font-size: .8em; - text-decoration: - none; -} - -/* Poetry */ -.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-indent: 0em;} -/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry in browsers */ -/* .poetry {display: inline-block;} */ -/* large inline blocks don't split well on paged devices */ -@media print { .poetry {display: block;} } -.x-ebookmaker .poetry {display: block;} - -.xbig {font-size: 2em;} -.big {font-size: 1.2em;} - -abbr[title] { - text-decoration: none; -} - - /* ]]> */ </style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen, by Janet Ross</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>or How to cook vegetables</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Janet Ross</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 16, 2022 [eBook #69370]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN ***</div> - - - -<h1><i>LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN</i></h1> - -<p class="center big"><i>OR</i><br> -<i>HOW TO COOK VEGETABLES</i><br> -</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w50" alt="The Kitchen Poggio Gherardo"> -</span></p> -<p class="center caption"><i>A.H. Hallam Murray.</i><br><i>The Kitchen Poggio Gherardo.</i></p> - - -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img002"> -<img src="images/002.jpg" class="w50" alt="Leaves from our Tuscan kitchen"> -</span></p> -<p class="center xbig">LEAVES -<br><i>from</i> -<br>OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN<br><i>or</i><br> -How to Cook Vegetables</p> -<p class="center big"> -<i>by</i><br>JANET ROSS -</p> - -<p class="center">LONDON -<br>JM DENT AND <abbr title="company">CO.</abbr><br> -29 & 30 BEDFORD STREET W.C. -<br>1899<br> -</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center p2">Edinburgh: T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable</span>, Printers to Her Majesty</p> -</div> - - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p class="center"><i>To Mrs. G. F. Watts</i></p> -</div> - - -<p class="center"><i>Dear friend, will you accept this little book? -It may sometimes bring a thought of Italy into your beautiful Surrey home</i> -</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2> -</div> - - -<p>The innate love of change in man is visible even in the kitchen. Not -so very long ago soup was an exception in English houses—almost a -luxury. A dish of vegetables—as a dish and not an adjunct to meat—was -a still greater rarity; and even now plain-boiled potatoes, peas, -cabbages, etc., are the rule. When we read of the dishes, fearfully and -wonderfully made, in the old Italian <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">novelle</i>, we wonder whence -the present Italians got their love of vegetables and maccaroni.</p> - -<p>Sacchetti tells us that in the fourteenth century a baked goose, -stuffed with garlic and quinces, was considered an exquisite dish; and -when the gonfalonier of Florence gave a supper to a famous doctor, he -put before him the stomach of a calf, boiled partridges, and pickled -sardines. Gianfigliazzi’s cook sent up a roasted crane to his master -as a delicacy, says<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</span> Boccaccio; and a dish of leeks cooked with spices -appears as a special dish in the rules of the chapter of San Lorenzo -when the canons messed together. Old Laschi, author of that delightful -book <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">L’Osservatore Fiorentino</i>, moralises on the ancient fashion -of cooking in his pleasant rather prosy way: ‘It would not seem that -the senses should be subjected to fashion; and yet such is the case. -The perfumes, once so pleasing, musk, amber, and benzoin, now excite -convulsions; sweet wines, such as Pisciancio, Verdea, Montalcino, and -others mentioned by Redi in his dithyrambic, are now despised; and -instead of the heavy dishes of olden times, light and elegant ones are -in vogue. Whoever characterised man as a laughing animal ought rather -to have called him a variable and inconstant one.’</p> - -<p>The dinner which set all Siena laughing for days, given to a favourite -of Pius <span class="allsmcap">II.</span> by a Sienese who substituted wild geese for -peacocks, after cutting off their beaks and feet, and coloured his -jelly with poisonous ingredients, forms the subject of one of Pulci’s -tales:—</p> - -<p>‘Meanwhile it was ordered that hands should be washed, and Messer Goro -was seated at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</span> head of the table, and then other courtiers who had -accompanied him; and they ate many tarts of good almond paste as a -beginning. Then was brought to Messer Goro the dish on which were the -peacocks without beaks, and a fellow was told to carve them. He not -being used to such office gave himself vast trouble to pluck them,<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -but did it with so little grace that he filled the room and all the -table with feathers, and the eyes, the mouth, the nose, and the ears -of Messer Goro, and of them all. They, perceiving that it was from -want of knowledge, held their peace, and took a mouthful here and -there of other dishes so as not to disturb the order of the feast. But -they were always swallowing dry feathers. Falcons and hawks would have -been convenient that evening. When this pest had been removed many -other roasts were brought, but all most highly seasoned with cumin. -Everything would however have been pardoned if at the last an error had -not been committed, which out of sheer folly nearly cost Messer Goro -and those<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</span> with him their lives. Now you must know that the master of -the house and his councillors, in order to do honour to his guest, had -ordered a dish of jelly. They wanted, as is the fashion in Florence and -elsewhere, to have the arms of the Pope and of Messer Goro with many -ornaments on it; so they used orpiment, white and red lead, verdigris -and other horrors, and set this before Messer Goro as a choice and new -thing. And Messer Goro and his companions ate willingly of it to take -the bitter taste of the cumin and the other strange dishes out of their -mouths, thinking, as is the custom in every decent place, that they -were all coloured with saffron, milk of sweet almonds, the juices of -herbs, and such like. And in the night it was just touch and go that -some of them did not stretch out their legs. Messer Goro especially -suffered much anguish from both head and stomach....’<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Peacocks were skinned, not plucked, before cooking, and -the skin with the feathers was put on to the roasted bird, and the tail -opened out before placing the dish on the table. The ‘fellow’ ought to -have cut the stitches and drawn off the skin, instead of plucking the -feathers.</p> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> See <i lang="fr" xml:lang="fr">L’Osservatore Fiorentino</i>, <abbr title="volume">vol.</abbr> vi. <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> 108.</p> - -</div> - -<p>A company of Lombard pastrycooks came to Tuscany in the sixteenth -century, and introduced fine pastry into Florence. We find the first -mention of it in Berni’s <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Orlando Innamorato</i>, where it is -mentioned among the choice viands.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</span> Laschi says, ‘the epoch of Charles <span class="allsmcap">V.</span> is the greatest of -modern times, for the culture of the spirit induced the culture of the -body.’ But he does not mention vegetables or herbs at all. For them -we must go back to the ancients. Bitterly did the Israelites, when -wandering in the desert, regret ‘the cucumbers and the melons we did -eat in Egypt’; though old Gerarde says, ‘they yield to the body a cold -and moist nourishment, and that very little, and the same not good.’ -Gerarde is however hard to please, for he says of egg-plants, under the -old English name of Raging or Mad Apples, ‘doubtless these apples have -a mischievous qualitie, the use whereof is utterly to be forsaken.’</p> - -<p>Fennel, dedicated to St. John, was believed to make the lean fat and -to give the weak strength, while the root pounded with honey was -considered a remedy against the bites of mad dogs. If lettuce be eaten -after dinner it cures drunkenness; but Pope says:—</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 10em;">If your wish be rest,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lettuce and cowslip wine, <i lang="la" xml:lang="la">probatum est</i>.</span><br> -</p> - -<p>Sorrel is under the influence of Venus, and Gerarde declares that also -‘the carrot serveth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</span> for love matters; and Orpheus, as Pliny writeth, -said that the use hereof winneth love.’ Flowers of rosemary, rue, sage, -marjoram, fennel, and quince preserve youth; worn over the heart they -give gaiety. Rosemary is an herb of the sun, while Venus first raised -sweet marjoram, therefore young married couples are crowned with it in -Greece. While</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">‘He that eats sage in May</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shall live for aye.’<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></span><br> -</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> For interesting information about plants see <i>Plant -Lore, Legends, and Lyrics</i>, by R. Folkard, Jun. Sampson Low, -Marston, Searle and Rivington, London, 1884.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Sweet basil is often worn by the Italian maidens in their bosoms, as it -is supposed to engender sympathy, and borage makes men merry and joyful.</p> - -<p>For years English friends have begged recipes for cooking vegetables in -the Italian fashion, so I have written down many of the following from -the dictation of our good Giuseppe Volpi, whose portrait, by Mr. A. H. -Hallam Murray, adorns this little book, and who has been known to our -friends for over thirty years.</p> - -<p>I must also acknowledge, with thanks, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</span> courtesy of Sigri. -Fratelli Ingegnoli of Milan, who have permitted me to use and translate -what I needed from their excellent little book <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Come si Cucinano i -Legumi</i>.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Janet Ross.</span> -<br><span class="smcap">Poggio Gherardo,</span><br> -<span class="smcap">Florence.</span> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2> -</div> - - -<table class="autotable"> -<tr><th></th><th class="tdr">PAGE</th></tr> -<tr><td class="tdl"> -<a href="#Page_vii">Preface</a> -</td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_vii">vii-xiii</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_1">Introduction</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_1">1-4</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_5">Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_5">    ”            ”        (<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">maigre</i>)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_6">    ”      ‘Farciti’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_6">6</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_7">    ”      ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_7">    ”      ‘alla Francese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_7">    ”      ‘Fritti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_8">    ”          ”    <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_8">    ”      ‘alla Graticola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_9">    ”      ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_9">    ”      ‘alla Lionese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_9">    ”      ‘alla Milanese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_10">    ”      ‘alla Spagnuola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_10">    ”      ‘al Vapore’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_11">Asparagus ‘alla Borghese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_11">    ”      ‘alla Casalinga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_11">    ”      cold</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_12">    ”      ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_12">    ”      ‘Fritto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_13">    ”      ‘ai Gamberi’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_13">13</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_13">Asparagus ‘in Istufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_13">    ” tips ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_14">    ” ‘all’ Olandese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_14">    ” ‘alla Parmigiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_14">    ” ‘Perlate’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_15">    ” tips ‘alla Suprema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_15">    ” on Toast. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_16">    ”  ”  <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_16">    ” ‘alla Wilhelmina’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_17">Beans (Broad) ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_17">    ”  ” ‘alla Romana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_18">    ”  ” ‘alla Turca’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_18">    ”  ” ‘al Vino’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_18">    ”  (French) ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_19">    ”  ” ‘alla Crema.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_19">    ”  ”  ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_19">    ”  ” ‘allo Zabajone’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_20">    ” (Haricots) ‘alla Bruna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_20">    ”  ” Croquettes of</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_21">    ”  ” ‘alla Fiorentina’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_21">    ”  ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_21">    ”  ” ‘alla Milanese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_22">    ”  ” ‘alla Polenta’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_22">    ”  ” ‘Purée alla Brétonne’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_22">    ”  ” ‘alla Romana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_23">    ”  ” ‘sautés’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_23">    ” (Lima) ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_23">    ” (Dwarf Lima) ‘alla Portugese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_24">    ” (Scarlet Runners) ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_24">24</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_24">Beet Leaves boiled</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_24">    ” ‘Gnocchi’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_25">Beetroot (How to boil)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_25">    ” ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_26">    ” and Potatoes</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_26">Broccoli ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_27">    ” ‘alla Parmigiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_27">    ” with White Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_28">Brussels Sprouts ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_28">    ” ” ‘al Limone’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_28">    ” ” ‘sautés’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_29">Cabbage (How to boil)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_29">    ” ‘farcito all’ Americana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_30">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_30">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_31">    ” ‘Fritto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_31">    ” ‘all’ Uovo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_31">    ” ‘Pasticciato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_32">    ” ‘in Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_32">    ” (Red) ‘alla Fiamminga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_32">    ” ” ‘alla Tedesca’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_33">Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_33">    ”  ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_34">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_34">Cardoons ‘al Bianco’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_35">    ” ‘alla Milanese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_35">35</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_35">Carrots ‘all’ Aceto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_35">    ” ‘alla Béchamel’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_36">    ” ‘alla Casalinga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_36">    ” ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_37">    ” ‘Sautées’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_37">    ” ‘in Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_38">    ” ‘allo Zucchero’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_38">Cauliflower ‘al Borghese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_30">    ” ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_30">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_39">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_40">    ” ‘al Fritto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_40">    ” ‘al Gratin’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_41">    ” ‘alla Piemontese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_41">    ” ‘in Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_41">Celery ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_42">    ” ‘al Fritto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_42">    ” ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_43">    ” ‘alla Parmigiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_43">    ” ‘al Pomidoro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_43">    ” stewed</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_44">Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_44">    ” ‘alla Comasca’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_44">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_45">    ” ‘Farciti’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_45">    ” ‘in Istufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_46">    ” ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_46">    ” ‘alla Spagnuola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_46">46</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_46">Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_47">    ” ‘all’ Uova’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_47">Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_48">    ” ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_48">    ” ” ‘Fritto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_48">    ” ” ‘alla Griglia’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_49">    ” ”  ‘Sauté’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_49">Flan of Celery</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_49">    ” Potatoes</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_50">    ” Vegetables</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_50">Fritto Misto</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_51">    ” of Vegetables</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_51">Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_52">    ” ” in Purée</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_52">Leeks ‘alla Casalinga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_52">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_53">    ” ‘alla Salza Bianca’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_53">Lentils ‘alla Corona’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_54">    ” ‘in Istufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_54">    ” ‘alla Provenzale’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_55">    ” ‘Purée’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_55">    ” ‘al Riso’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_55">Lettuce ‘Farcite’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_56">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_56">    ” ‘alla Spagnuola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_56">56</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_57">Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_57">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_58">    ” ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_58">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_59">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_59">    ” ‘au Gratin’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_59">    ” ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_60">    ” ‘al Latte’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_60">    ” ‘alla Napolitana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_61">    ” ‘alla Quaresima’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_61">    ” ‘alla Semplice’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_61">    ” ‘alla Siciliana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_65">    ” ‘Timbale alla Milanese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_63">    ” ‘Timbale alla Napolitana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">OTHER PASTES</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_63">Agnelotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_64">Crescioni</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_65">Gnocchi ‘alla Romana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_65">    ” of Semolina</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_66">Pappardelle with Hare</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_66">Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_67">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_67">    ” ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_68">    ” ‘alla Napolitana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_68">    ” ‘Timbaletti di’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_69">Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_69">69</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_69">Tagliatelle with Ham</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_70">    ” ‘alla Romagnola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_70">    ” with Sausages</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_70">70</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_71">Tortelli</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_71">Macedoine of Vegetables</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_72">Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_72">    ” (Porcini) ‘alla Casalinga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_73">    ” (Pratajuoli) ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_73">    ” (Porcini) ‘alla Francese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_73">    ” ” Fried. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_74">    ” ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_74">    ” ” Grilled</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_74">    ” ” ‘all’ Intingolo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_75">    ” (Prugnuoli) ‘alla Spagnuola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_75">    ” (Dormienti) ‘al Sugo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_76">    ” (Pratajuoli) on Toast</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_76">    ” (Porcini) with Tomato Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_76">    ” (Ovoli) ‘Trippati’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_77">Onions ‘Farcite’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_77">    ” ‘Fried’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_77">    ” ‘Glacés’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_78">    ” Small White</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_78">    ” ‘in Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_79">Parsnips ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_79">    ” ‘al Forno’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_80">    ” ‘Fritte’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_80">    ” ‘Sautés’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_80">80</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxii">[Pg xxii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_80">Peas ‘all’ Antica’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_81">    ” ‘alla Borghese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_81">    ” ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_81">    ” ‘alla Consommé’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_81">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_82">    ” ‘alla Francese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_82">    ” ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_83">    ” ‘al Buon Gusto’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_83">    ” ‘all’ Inglese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_83">Pea Omelette</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_84">Pease-pudding</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_85">Peas in their Pods</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_85">    ” ‘allo Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_85">    ” ‘allo Zucchero’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_86">Polenta Dabs</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_86">    ” ‘alla Parmigiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_86">    ” with Sausages</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_87">Potatoes boiled</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_87">    ” ‘alla Borghese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_87">    ” ‘alla Campagnuola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_88">    ” ‘in Casseruola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_88">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_88">    ” Croquettes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_89">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_89">    ” ‘Farcite’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_90">    ” ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_90">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_90">    ” ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_91">    ” ‘alla Semplicità’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_91">    ” ‘Fritti alla Francese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_91">91</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiii">[Pg xxiii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_91">Potatoes ‘in Frittura’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_91">91</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_92">Potato ‘Gnocchi’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_92">Potatoes ‘all’ Italiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_93">    ” ‘alla Gran Duchessa’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_93">    ” ‘alla Lionese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_94">    ” ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_94">    ” ‘all’ Olandese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_94">    ” ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_95">Potato Pudding</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_95">    ” ” with Mushrooms</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_96">Potatoes ‘in Ragout’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_96">    ” ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_97">    ” ‘Sautées’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_97">    ” ‘in Stufato’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_97">    ” ‘Tartufate’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_98">    ” ‘all’ Umido’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_98">Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_98">    ” ‘Fritti’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_99">Pumpkin Pudding</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_99">Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_100">    ” ” (<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Maigre</i>). <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_100">Rice (How to Cook)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_101">    ” ‘alla Casalinga’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_101">    ” Croquettes</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_102">    ” with Tomatoes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_103">    ” ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_103">    ” with Prawns</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_104">    ” with Quails</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_104">    ” ‘alla Ristori’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_104">104</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiv">[Pg xxiv]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_104">Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_105">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_105">    ” with Peas</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_106">    ” ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">SALADS</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_106">Artichoke Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_107">Beetroot Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_107">Broccoli Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_107">Cabbage Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_107">‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_108">Cauliflower Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_108">Celery Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_108">Cucumber and Tomato Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_108">108</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_109">‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_109">French Beans Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_109">‘All’ Italiana’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_109">Lettuce Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_110">    ” ” ‘alla Francese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_110">    ” ” with Veal (or Fish)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_111">‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_111">‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_111">Potato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_112">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_112">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_113">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_113">‘Alla Russa’ Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_113">Spanish Onion Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_114">Summer Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_114">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_114">114</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxv">[Pg xxv]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_114">Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_115">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_115">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_115">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_116">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_116">    ” Jelly Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_117">Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_117">Watercress Salad</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">SAUCES</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_117">Roux for Sauces</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_118">Agro Dolce Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_118">Bearnese Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_119">Béchamel Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_119">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_119">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_120">    ” ” (<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Maigre</i>) <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_120">Broccoli (Sauce for)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_121">Caper Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_121">    ” ” ‘alla Genovese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_121">    ” ” ‘alla Milanese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_122">    ” ” (Cold)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_122">Butter Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_122">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2 (Melted Butter)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_123">Francese Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_123">Lombarda Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_123">Mayonnaise Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_124">    ” ” ‘alla Monte Bianco’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_124">    ” ” ‘alla Ravigote’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_124">Olandese Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_124">124<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxvi">[Pg xxvi]</span></a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_125">‘Alla Panna’ Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_125">Suprema Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_125">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_125">125</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_126">Tartara Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_126">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_126">Tomato Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_127">    ” ”  <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_127">Ve lutata Sauce</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_128">Sorrel Purée</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_128">    ” ” (<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Maigre</i>)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_128">    ” ” Stewed</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">SOUPS</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_128">Artichoke Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_129">    ” ” (Purée)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_129">Asparagus Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_130">Carrot Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_130">Chestnut Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_130">Lentil Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_131">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_131">Lettuce Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_131">131</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_132">Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_132">132</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_132">    ” ” ‘alla Romana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_132">132</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_132">Pumpkin Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_132">132</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_133">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_133">Onion Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_133">133</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_134">    ” ” ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_134">Palestine Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_134">134</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxvii">[Pg xxvii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_134">Pea Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_135">Polentina ‘alla Veneziana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_135">Sorrel Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_135">Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_136">Tomato Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_136">    ” ” (<i lang="it" xml:lang="it">Maigre</i>) <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_137">Turnip Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_137">Vegetable Soup (Mixed)</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_137">Vegetable and Cream Soup</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_138">Spinach ‘al Burro’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_138">    ” ‘alla Crema’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_138">    ” Croquettes</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_138">138</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_139">    ” ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_139">    ” Fried</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_140">    ” Pudding with Mushrooms</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_140">    ” ‘in Riccioli’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_140">140</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_141">    ” Soufflé</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_141">Tomatoes Broiled</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_142">    ” ‘in Conchiglia’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_142">    ” ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_142">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_143">    ” ” <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_143">    ” ‘Fritti’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_144">    ” ‘alla Graticola’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_144">    ” Iced</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_144">    ” ‘all’ Indiana’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_144">    ” ‘al Pane’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_144">144</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_145">    ” Pudding</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_145">145</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxviii">[Pg xxviii]</span></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_145">Tomatoes in Purée</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_146">    ” ‘Ripieni’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_146">    ” ‘al Riso’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_146">    ” Stewed</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_147">    ” ‘in Umido’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_147">147</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_147">    ” ‘con Uova’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_147">147</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_147">Truffles in Champagne</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_147">147</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_148">    ” and Cheese</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_148">    ” Maigre</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_148">    ” in Omelette</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_148">148</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_149">    ” ‘alla Panna’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_149">    ” ‘Sautés’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_150">    ” Stewed</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"><a href="#Page_150">    ” ‘sul tovagliolo’</a></td><td class="tdr page"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td></tr> -</table> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<p class="center xbig">ITALIAN RECIPES</p> - - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</h2> -</div> - -<h3><i>About the cooking of Vegetables.</i></h3> - - -<p>Vegetables should be well washed in cold water to remove insects and -dust; if not fresh gathered, leave them some time in cold water, -and remember that they take longer to cook than fresh ones. Green -vegetables must be put into salted water (one tablespoonful of salt to -every two quarts of water) and rapidly cooked over a brisk fire in an -open sauce-pan until they are tender. All green vegetables should be -removed from the water as soon as cooked, and be well drained before -adding the seasoning.</p> - - -<h3><i>About Sauces.</i></h3> - -<p>So much depends on sauces that only the best ingredients should be used -in making them. Rancid or impure oil or bad butter will ruin sauces -and salads. Both butter and oil should always be tasted before buying, -as good cookery is impossible unless they are perfectly fresh and good -in every way; butter must be added to sauces in small bits, or it will -form a greasy line. To skim sauces, take the sauce-pan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span> off the fire -and put in a teaspoonful of cold water, which will make the grease -rise. Remember that wine increases the taste of salt, so when wine is -used in a sauce put in very little salt until after the wine has been -added.</p> - - -<h3><i>About Eggs.</i></h3> - -<p>Eggs must be <em>quite</em> fresh, if they taste of straw the sauce will -be spoiled. They should therefore be broken one at a time into a saucer -and examined before using. A pinch of salt added to the whites of eggs -makes them whisk better, and none of the yolk must be allowed to get -mixed in.</p> - - -<h3><i>About Spices.</i></h3> - -<p>The following is a good recipe for the spices so necessary in cooking: -Half an ounce of cloves, two ounces of nutmeg, half an ounce of sweet -basil, half an ounce of white pepper, two ounces of cinnamon, one -quarter of an ounce of dried bay leaves, half an ounce of thyme. Pound -well together, then pass through a sieve, and put them into a bottle, -or box, hermetically closed to preserve the perfume.</p> - - -<h3><i>About a Bouquet.</i></h3> - -<p>Take one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, two cloves, and one stalk of -well-washed celery, place round these six sprigs of parsley, fold and -tie them so that the cloves, etc., cannot fall out.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>About Onion Juice.</i></h3> - -<p>Onion juice is obtained by grating an onion on a coarse grater, after -peeling it. Press hard, and each stroke will give one drop of juice.</p> - - -<h3><i>About Maccaroni and Spaghetti Paste.</i></h3> - -<p>For every quarter of a pound of flour use one egg and two -tablespoonfuls of warm salted water. Take as much flour as needful, -make a hole in the centre, and put in the water and the eggs. Beat them -up with a spoon, mixing the flour in gradually, then knead well. Roll -the paste into very thin sheets, and place them on a clean cloth to dry -for half an hour. This paste will not keep more than one, or one and a -half days, and must always be put into boiling water or broth to cook. -If soaked before cooking the flavour is spoiled.</p> - - -<h3><i>About blanching Maccaroni and Spaghetti.</i></h3> - -<p>Put an earthenware pot, filled with water, on the fire, add two -tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil. Put in three-quarters of a pound of -fresh maccaroni, twisting it round carefully so as not to break it. -Boil for seventeen minutes, then remove from the fire; drain, and put -it in cold water; drain again, and it is ready for use. Spaghetti are -blanched the same way.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>About Croûtons.</i></h3> - -<p>To make croûtons, cut bread into whatever shape you want. Take off the -crust, dip the pieces into melted butter, and toast in the oven, turn -often in order to colour evenly, or fry them in boiling oil or fat. -They must be crisp and of a light brown colour.</p> - - -<h3><i>About a Bain-Marie.</i></h3> - -<p>A Bain-Marie is a large copper pan placed on the fire, and containing -boiling water in which are put smaller pans with anything to be kept -hot, or cooked without boiling. Milk is better cooked in Bain-Marie, -than in a sauce-pan on the fire.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="RECIPES">RECIPES</h2> -</div> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and cut straight the under leaves of three large French -artichokes, boil them sufficiently to be able to take out the chokes, -and put them in cold water for five minutes. Drain thoroughly, then -fill the hole left by the choke with forcemeat made of half an ounce -of minced salt pork, two shallots, six mushrooms minced, a teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg, mixed well -together. Tie up the artichokes with string, heat three tablespoonfuls -of good olive oil in a pan, and brown them well on both sides. Then -place your artichokes in a sauté-pan, and put a small slice of fresh -pork, or a bit of good butter, on the top of each; add a tumbler of -broth, bake for forty minutes in oven, then place on a hot dish, and -serve, pouring the sauce in the pan over them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’ (maigre).</i></h3> - -<p>Parboil three fine French artichokes for three minutes, drain, pare -the tips and the bottoms, and remove the chokes. Then place them in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> a -sauce-pan with a tablespoonful of fresh butter, a carrot and an onion -sliced up, and very little salt. Cook a shallot (minced up) with a -tablespoonful of butter for three minutes (being careful not to let -it brown), add ten minced mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped-up -parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped-up chervil, and a little salt and -pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring often. Stuff the artichokes -with this, and put a whole mushroom on the top of each artichoke. Bake -in a hot oven, adding a wine-glassful of white wine and a tumbler of -vegetable soup; close the pan and cook for forty minutes. Add a quarter -of a pint of sauce ‘Vellutata’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>) to the sauce of the -artichokes, heat, but do not boil; strain, and serve in a sauce-boat -separately.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘Farciti.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil and drain twelve young artichokes. Chop up four ounces of boiled -ham and one pound of chicken-meat fine, add two tablespoonfuls of -cream, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, -and some grated nutmeg. Fill each artichoke with this compound, put -into a well-buttered frying-pan, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a -hot oven. Serve hot with ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil eight or ten young artichokes, then dry them well. Put a small -piece of onion on the top of each artichoke, wrap each in a slice of -ham, and stand them upright in a sauce-pan. In another sauce-pan make -your stuffings: four ounces of fine white lard cut up small, a quart -of broth, six mushrooms and a little parsley chopped up fine. Boil, -and when cooked pour this compound into each artichoke, put them into -the oven (not too hot) for about three-quarters of an hour. Before -serving be careful to remove any ham that has remained attached to the -artichokes, and pour some sauce ‘Olandese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_124">124</a>) over -them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Francese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut your artichokes into four or eight pieces according to their size, -remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and boil. Then sprinkle them -with lemon, and, to prevent them from turning brown, put them into hot -water with a good deal of vinegar. Drain well before serving, and after -putting them on a dish, pour a sauce made of pepper, salt, fine olive -oil, and a little vinegar over them, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash your artichokes and cut them into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span> slices. When drained put them -into an earthen pot with some salt, pepper, fine olive oil, and a few -drops of vinegar. Put two yolks of eggs, one whole egg, a little water, -and some fine olive oil, into a frying-pan, and mix well together. -Throw the slices of artichoke into the frying-pan, stirring them well. -When they have taken a good colour remove them from the fire, strain -them, put them on a napkin in a dish, garnish with fried parsley and -serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut eight or ten young artichokes into slices lengthways, take out -the chokes and cut off the ends of the leaves, and throw them into -vinegar and water; drain and dip them in the following batter:—two -tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolk of one egg, one spoonful of good -olive oil, and two tablespoonfuls of milk. Stir well; add one -tablespoonful of brandy (or water), pepper and salt to taste, and let -it stand for some hours. Before using whisk two whites of egg to a -stiff froth and beat it in.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Graticola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash your artichokes well, remove the stalks, the hard leaves, and the -points of the leaves; cut them in halves, and cook them on a gridiron. -Then sprinkle them with salt, some fine olive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> oil, and a little -pepper, and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them just before -serving up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean the artichokes and remove the hard outside leaves. Boil them -well and leave them to drain. Arrange them on a dish and pour a sauce -‘Tartara, <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>) over them. Serve up quickly.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Lionese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the stalk and the hard leaves, cut your artichoke into pieces, -then wash and drain them. Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan well, put in -the pieces of artichoke, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and cook -them with a slow fire above and below until they take a golden colour. -When quite cooked, arrange them on a dish, and pour some fried fresh -butter over them, into which a pinch of sugar and three tablespoonfuls -of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) has been put. Serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Milanese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put your boiled artichokes into an earthenware pot after greasing it -well with fresh butter, then place a bit of butter in the centre of -each artichoke and sprinkle them with some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span> finely grated Parmesan -cheese of the best quality. Cover the pot and cook over a slow fire, -taking care that the artichokes should not boil for too long. Just -before serving up, pour some more melted butter over them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘alla Spagnuola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and wash three (or more) -artichokes well and cut them into pieces. Boil, then drain, put them -into a sauce-pan with some pepper, five tablespoonfuls of sauce -‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>), five of Consommé, and then put them on -the fire for half an hour. Boil again for half an hour with fire above -and below, before serving them up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichokes ‘al Vapore.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the hard outside leaves of the artichokes, but leave a little -of the stalk. Then place them upright in a small sauce-pan with a -little water which must not quite cover the artichokes. Open out the -artichokes and pour into the centre of each a sauce made of pepper, -salt, and fine olive oil. Then cover the sauce-pan and be careful to -boil the water well, so as to steam the artichokes thoroughly.</p> - -<p>N.B.—Artichokes are eaten when barely half-grown in Italy.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3 id="borghese"><i>Asparagus ‘alla Borghese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a bundle of asparagus, scrape the white of each stalk lightly, and -put them into cold water. Then tie them in bundles of twenty-five (or, -if very large, of twelve or fifteen), keep the heads together, and cut -the ends of one length. Cook them quickly for fifteen minutes in one -gallon of boiling water in which two ounces of salt has been put. Dish -them up on a piece of toast, serve very hot, with melted fresh butter, -or sauce ‘Alla Panna,’ or ‘All’ Olandese’ (see Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_124">124</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘alla Casalinga.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take four pounds of asparagus and cook the green part in boiling salted -water. Then drain, and put the asparagus into a baking-dish with four -ounces of fresh butter, sprinkle with grated cheese, salt and pepper to -taste, brown slightly, garnish with eggs fried in butter, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus, cold.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the ends of your asparagus so as to have them of equal length, and -boil in salted water. When cold lay them on a dish, and, just before -serving, pour over them a sauce made of good olive oil, white wine -vinegar, salt, and pepper. (If preferred, a white sauce can be used -instead of oil and vinegar.)</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take the heads only of the asparagus (two or three pounds as required) -and put them into boiling water with a little salt. Boil for about -fifteen minutes, and prepare meanwhile some square pieces of roll or -white bread, without the crust. Scoop out the centre of each piece and -put in a bit of butter, then fry (or bake) until the bread turns a good -yellow colour. After draining the heads of the asparagus place them in -the holes in the bread, taking care to keep them hot. Then boil half a -pint of milk, add four yolks of eggs, and stir till solid. Take it off -the fire, add a little butter, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, pour -over the asparagus and bread, and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘Fritto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus, boil them in slightly salted -water for about fifteen minutes, and then strain. Put half a tumbler -of cream, in which the yolk of an egg and two ounces of butter have -been well beaten up, into a frying-pan, add a tablespoonful of sugar, -salt and pepper to taste, and stir slowly over the fire for five or six -minutes. Then fry your asparagus heads in it and serve very hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘ai Gamberi.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the tender heads of the asparagus in equal lengths and boil them, -then pickle them in good olive oil, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. -Stick a hunch of bread into the centre of a dish, cover it with sauce -‘Mayonnaise,’ and place the asparagus heads (over which you have just -squeezed some lemon juice) round and over it. Garnish the dish with -sauce ‘Mayonnaise’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) and crayfish tails, and serve. -Some jelly will be an addition.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘in Istufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus and wash them well in cold -salted water. Strain, and when dry put them into a sauce-pan with a -tablespoonful of flour, four ounces of butter, half a pint of cream (or -milk), and a little salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until they -begin to boil, then remove, and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus tips ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Prepare about 200 asparagus tips two or two and a half inches long, -half cook, and then drain them. Put them in a baking-pan with fresh -butter and strong gravy, taking care that they should be well glacées. -Cook fifteen or eighteen eggs for five minutes, shell them and keep -them warm in hot water. Pile a stiff<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> purée of potatoes dome-shaped on -a dish, arrange your asparagus heads (pointing upwards) round it, heat -the dish well, and stand your eggs upright all round, pouring a white -sauce over them. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘all’ Olandese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a bunch of asparagus and scrape the stalks well. Cut them of equal -length and put them into boiling salted water (if they are not all of -the same size, put the biggest in first, or the small ones will be too -much cooked) and boil fast. Drain well, and place them on a napkin in a -dish, with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_124">124</a>) in a sauce-boat apart.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘alla Parmigiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape and boil your asparagus and place them on a dish, pour over them -a sauce of melted fresh butter mixed with strong gravy, some grated -Parmesan cheese, and a little pepper; then powder them with a little -grated Parmesan cheese, pour some more melted butter over them, colour -with the salamander and serve immediately.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘Perlate.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the heads of a bunch of asparagus into small pieces like peas, and -put them into salted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span> boiling water. When almost cooked, drain, and put -them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and a little -powdered sugar, sprinkle well with flour, and pour a little soup, or -sauce ‘Vellutata’ over them (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>). When thoroughly -cooked, mix two or three well-beaten-up yolks of eggs with them, and -serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus tips ‘alla Suprema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Choose asparagus of about the same size, break off the tenderest part -with your fingers, and cut them in small bits, cooking the tips last. -Put them into salted boiling water, then drain, and place them in a -baking-pan with melted fresh butter, keep them a few minutes on the -fire, add some salt, a little gravy, fresh butter and lemon juice. -Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus on Toast. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the asparagus well and scrape the stalks, then tie in bunches and -put them into an earthenware pot of boiling water slightly salted; boil -for about twenty minutes, until they are tender but not over-done, cut -some toasted bread into square pieces (without the crust), and put a -bit of butter on each piece. When the asparagus is cooked and drained, -untie the bunches and place it on the toast, taking care to lay the -heads all the same way.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span> Then melt four ounces of fresh butter with -a little flour in a frying-pan, and add a pinch of salt and pepper. -Serve the sauce separately, or a sauce ‘Olandese’ if better liked (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_124">124</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus on Toast. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the bottom of the stalks of a bunch of asparagus to make them -even, and put them into a pan of cold water till near dinner-time. Then -put the bunch in boiling water in which a pinch of soda, the weight of -a pea, has been dissolved. Boil a quarter of an hour, then drain, cut -the twine and serve. Have the buttered toast ready, place the white -ends of the asparagus on it and pour one tablespoonful of melted butter -over the green heads in the dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus ‘alla Wilhelmina.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and clean a bunch of asparagus and cook in boiling water slightly -salted. When cooked and dried, arrange them in a dish, one-half on one -side, one-half on the other, so that the heads meet in the middle. -Melt four ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, add a little flour -and some good broth, mix well together and boil, then add one or two -bay leaves, some chopped parsley and onion, salt and pepper to taste, -and three well-beaten-up yolks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span> of eggs. Boil for five minutes, add a -little lemon juice, pour the sauce over the asparagus, and serve up -very hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Broad) ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Shell one quart of fresh young broad beans and put them in cold water. -Put two quarts of water in a sauce-pan and add a slice of ham, a stick -of celery, a bunch of parsley, three cloves, twenty peppercorns, and -one bay leaf. Boil for a quarter of an hour, then take out the ham, -etc., and put in the beans. Strain as soon as they are tender, add -four ounces of fresh butter and put them on the fire for a few minutes -before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Broad) ‘alla Romana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Chop up one small onion and four or five sage leaves, and fry brown in -butter. Put in a quart of young shelled broad beans, cover them with -boiling water and stew over a very slow fire for twenty minutes, add -the strained juice of six tomatoes (or some tomato conserve), with salt -and pepper to taste. Add boiling water whenever necessary, and stir -often, to prevent the beans from sticking to the sauce-pan. Stew for -twenty or twenty-five minutes, and serve very hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Broad) ‘alla Turca.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a quart of young broad bean pods, about two inches long, cut them -in half and put them in cold water. Then cook them in a sauce-pan -with two quarts of boiling water. Drain, and again put them in cold -water. Mince some ham and fry it with a little butter in a sauce-pan, -throw your beans in, toss, and heat them for ten minutes. Add three -tablespoonfuls good stock before serving up hot.</p> - -<h3><i>Beans (Broad) ‘al Vino.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take quite young shelled broad beans and stew them in a sauce-pan with -a little browned onion, some ham, butter, sweet herbs, and flour; -moisten well with broth, add a quarter of a pint of sweet white wine, -and three spoonfuls of sugar. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (French) ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the strings and the ends from one quart of French beans and -cut them into pieces about an inch long. Put them into cold water for -twenty or thirty minutes, then dry, and throw them into a sauce-pan of -boiling water with some salt and butter. Cook slowly for about half an -hour (according to the age of the beans), then place them in a dish, -adding some fresh butter, salt and pepper. Serve up hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (French) ‘alla Crema.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one quart of French beans slowly until nearly tender; then dry, -and put them to cook in fresh butter. Mix a teacupful of cream, an egg, -some grated cheese, and some allspice well together in a sauce-pan, -then add some lemon juice, a little white wine vinegar, and boil. Pour -this sauce over the beans, mix well, and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (French) ‘alla Crema.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Break off both ends and string two quarts of young fresh French beans, -wash in cold water, and drain. Put them into salted boiling water and -cook for five minutes, stirring them well. Season with a teaspoonful of -salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one or two chives, and some sprigs -of parsley (to be taken out before serving); add half a tea-cup of -fresh cream (or milk), and two yolks of eggs, heat for five minutes, -but do not boil. A tablespoonful of pounded sugar is an agreeable -addition.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (French) ‘allo Zabajone.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and remove the strings from two quarts of French beans and put -them into cold water; then boil and strain, and lay them in a dish. -Put two yolks of eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of white wine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> -vinegar, and two of water, into a sauce-pan on a slow fire, mix and -heat, but do not allow it to boil. Pour the sauce over the beans, and -serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Bruna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put a quart of haricot beans into a sauce-pan of salted boiling water, -and boil for about half an hour. When cooked brown, put four ounces of -butter in a frying-pan, add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, and -fry them well together. Then add some broth, stir well, and add half an -onion minced up with salt and pepper. Dry the beans, put them in the -sauce, boil all together for ten minutes, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots), Croquettes of.</i></h3> - -<p>Put a quart of small white haricot beans to soak in tepid water all -night long; dry, put them in cold water, and boil over a slow fire -for about an hour. Drain and dry them again, and put into boiling -water for another hour. Pass them through a sieve and put them in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter, one tablespoonful of white -wine vinegar, one of balm-mint, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well -together, cook, and let cool. Then roll up into balls (or croquets), -dip them into the yolk of an egg, cover them with finely grated -bread-crumbs, and fry with good fresh butter. Serve up very hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Fiorentina.’</i></h3> - -<p>Half-boil a quart of haricot beans in salted water, strain, and put -them into a sauce-pan with some fried, browned butter in it. Mix, then -drain off the butter, and add the following sauce: Melt four ounces of -fresh butter, skim it carefully, add some flour and mix well, add some -broth and stir until it is of the consistency of a sauce, and leave it -to boil. Then pass the sauce through a sieve, put it back on the fire, -and stir to prevent its sticking to the sauce-pan, add two yolks of -eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and some finely chopped-up parsley. -Pour the sauce over the beans before serving up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put some young, green, shelled haricot beans into boiling water, when -half-cooked add a pinch of salt, and a little butter. Take them out, -drain, and put them at once into a sauce-pan with butter, chopped -parsley, salt, pepper, and some lemon juice. Toss them well, and serve -up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Milanese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take young, green haricot beans and throw them in boiling water. When -half-cooked add a little salt and some butter, and boil them again for -five or six minutes. Then take them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span> out, strain, and put them, whilst -still hot, into a sauce-pan with a dessert-spoonful of chopped-up -parsley, salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and four ounces of fresh -butter. Toss them, and serve on a hot dish. (If the beans are dry you -must put them into cold water and boil them for one or two hours first.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Polenta.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put a quart of white haricot beans into tepid water for the night. -Dry, and put them into cold water, and boil for about an hour over a -slow fire; dry them again, put them into boiling water, and boil for -nearly an hour. Mash, and pass them through a sieve, place them in a -sauce-pan with three ounces of butter, a little salt and pepper, stir -well together, and boil them again for ten minutes. Serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘Purée alla Brétonne.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the white haricot beans and let them soak all night. Boil them -(changing the water) until tender, and mash them through a sieve. -Season with salt, pepper, and butter, add enough cream (or stock) to -make them of a proper consistency. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘alla Romana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cook the beans in an earthen pot in salted water, and let them drain. -Meanwhile cut<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span> three onions into small pieces, stew them in an earthen -pan until they are browned, then add the beans, with pepper, grated -nutmeg, minced anchovies passed through a sieve, and some broth. Fry -all together, and when the beans have absorbed all the liquid, squeeze -the juice of a lemon over them and serve hot at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Haricots) ‘sautés.’</i></h3> - -<p>Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a frying-pan, add some parsley and -half an onion chopped up together. Then put in the beans (already -boiled), leave them to cook for eight or ten minutes, sprinkle them -with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Lima) ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put the beans into boiling salted water, cook well, then drain and dry, -season with salt and pepper to taste, and three or four ounces of fresh -butter, add a tablespoonful of flour and three-quarters of a pint of -cream. Boil, and serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Dwarf Lima) ‘alla Portugese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a quart of young Lima beans, cook them in salted boiling water for -half an hour, then drain and dry them. Melt four ounces of fresh butter -in a frying-pan, add two tablespoonfuls<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> of flour and three-quarters -of a pint of milk, mix well together till they boil, then add two -beaten-up yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, and a finely chopped onion. Pour -over the beans and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beans (Scarlet Runners) ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Snap them in two in the middle and string them. Boil for three-quarters -of an hour in salted water, then drain away the water, put in a little -pepper and salt, and one or more (according to the quantity of beans) -cupfuls of cream.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Beet Leaves boiled.</i></h3> - -<p>Take the young leaves of white beetroot, tie them together in bunches -and put them into boiling water. They can be cooked with butter (like -spinach) or served up on buttered toast with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see -Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>) or Butter sauce.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beet ‘Gnocchi.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash well and remove the mid-ribs of a bundle of beet leaves, boil, and -then throw them into cold water. Dry, mince them very fine, and put -them into an earthen pot with four fresh eggs, four ounces of grated -cheese, four ounces of curds, or fresh-milk cheese, a little grated -nutmeg, and some salt. When<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> pretty dense put it on a well-floured -table and make a long roll the size of a finger. Cut into pieces about -two inches long, flour them well, and then throw them into an earthen -pot of boiling broth. As they come to the surface take them out, -drain well, season with butter or rich gravy, a little grated nutmeg, -cinnamon, and cheese. They must be cooked over a hot fire.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Beetroot (How to boil).</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the beetroot carefully without cutting or scraping it (if the skin -is broken the beet loses flavour and colour). Young ones take one hour -to boil, old ones four. In winter the beet must be put into cold water -overnight to make it tender, those that remain hard are unfit to eat. -It must be cooked in boiling water, then put into cold water for five -or six minutes, when it can be rubbed with a cloth to take off the -peel. Cut into slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour melted -fresh butter over it; or it can be put into the oven to bake. Boiled -beetroot when wanted for salad ought to be put into wine vinegar to -soak.</p> - - -<h3><i>Beetroot ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil some white beetroot as directed above, and peel it. Cut up into -dice, place on a very hot dish, and pour a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over it -(see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Beetroot and Potatoes.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the beetroot as directed above, and peel when cold. Cut into thin -round slices and put it into a frying-pan with two onions cut up small, -two ounces of butter; stir continually and do not let it brown. Add -one spoonful of flour, and milk enough to make a thickish sauce; add -three saltspoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, and one -tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, and boil for a few minutes. Then -put the slices in the pan to simmer for twenty minutes, and have some -mashed potatoes ready to make a border round the dish in which to put -the beetroot and the sauce, adding a little cream.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Broccoli ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and clean the broccoli well, put them into salted cold water for -half an hour. Then wrap each head in a piece of linen to prevent its -breaking, and put into salted boiling water for about twenty minutes. -When cooked, remove the linen carefully so as not to break the heads, -place them in a hot dish, pour half a pint (for each head) of hot ‘Alla -Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) over them, and serve immediately.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Broccoli ‘alla Parmigiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and clean the broccoli well and put them for one hour in salted -cold water, then rinse again, and cook in boiling salted water with a -little butter. Put ten tablespoonfuls of White sauce (see <a href="#white">below, White -Sauce</a>) into a stew-pan with a little chopped-up onion, and boil for a -few minutes, then add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. -When boiling, add the yolk of an egg and a very little cayenne pepper, -mix quickly and put a little on a dish; lay the broccoli on it, pour -the rest of the sauce over them, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated -cheese, and put it in the oven for half an hour, until of a nice brown -colour, and serve. (If you have no White sauce, use melted butter, -cooking it less, or it will be greasy.)</p> - - -<h3 id="white"><i>Broccoli with White Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the heads of broccoli in salted water with a little flour. When -cooked take them out and drain well. Then put them in a dish and pour -the following sauce over them: Melt some butter, salt, pepper, and a -tablespoonful of flour in a sauce-pan, add a glass of boiling water, -pouring it in a little at a time, and stirring continually. When -cooked, take it off the fire and mix the yolk of an egg beaten up with -a piece of butter. Do not put the sauce again on the fire.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Brussels Sprouts ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean, and pick off the dead leaves from one and a half pounds of -sprouts. Wash well, drain, and cook them in boiling water for seven -minutes. Drain again, and cool in cold water. Drain well once more, and -put them into a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of Vellutata sauce -(see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>), one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of -pepper, and the same of grated nutmeg. Add half a cupful of good cream, -and heat (but do not boil) for five minutes, tossing frequently. Put on -a dish and serve at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Brussels Sprouts ‘al Limone.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the sprouts and remove any dead leaves. Then put them into boiling -salted water and cook for twenty minutes, drain, and place them on a -hot dish. Meanwhile mix four ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls -of flour, add a little broth (or water), and stir well until it boils. -Just before serving add a good sprinkling of pepper and the juice of -two lemons. Pour the sauce over the sprouts and serve up quickly.</p> - - -<h3><i>Brussels Sprouts ‘sautés.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and wash the sprouts well, and boil. Then dry, and put them into -a sauce-pan with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span> two (or more) ounces of butter (according to the -quantity of sprouts); brown them well, and add one or two spoonfuls of -white wine vinegar, a little chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Serve -up very hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage (How to boil).</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the cabbage into good-sized pieces and strip off the outside -leaves. Cut out the hard core, wash well in two or three changes of -water, and drain thoroughly. Put the cabbage (a piece at a time, so -as not to stop the boiling) into a large sauce-pan or earthen pot of -salted boiling water. Cook for twenty-five minutes over a hot fire -(with pot uncovered), and push the cabbage under water every now and -then.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘farcito all’ Americana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a large cabbage and boil it whole for fifteen minutes. Then -change the water and boil again for half an hour; meanwhile prepare -the stuffing. Put about one pound of rice into cold water and boil for -twenty-five or thirty minutes, add three and a half pounds of sausage, -the juice of a lemon, some chopped parsley and a little pepper, and -mix well. Dry the cabbage thoroughly, open the leaves, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> put half a -tablespoonful of the stuffing between each leaf, folding them over it, -until the cabbage is quite stuffed. Then tie it up carefully in a piece -of linen and put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. When boiled -remove the cloth, put the cabbage in a vegetable dish, pour an ‘Alla -Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) over, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Choose a white cabbage, remove the outer leaves and cut it into -quarters. Soak in cold water for an hour, then dry, and put it in an -earthen pot of boiling water to cook. Then let it cool for about ten -minutes and put it into another pot of boiling water, adding salt and -pepper, and boil, keeping the cover on tight. When done serve with an -‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the cabbage as directed above. Press out all the water and chop it -up. Put a layer in the bottom of a pie or vegetable dish, cover with a -white sauce made of one cup of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one -of flour, a little salt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and then add -a layer of grated cheese. Repeat your layers of cabbage, sauce, and -cheese; cover the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> top with a layer of bread-crumbs and bits of butter, -and put it in the oven. When the sauce bubbles on the top take it out -and serve up in the same dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘Fritto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and cut up a cabbage, put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water. -Boil for twenty minutes, then dry, and put it into a sauce-pan with -four ounces of butter, two spoonfuls of white wine vinegar, some salt, -and pepper; mix well together until it becomes well heated. Then serve -up.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘all’ Uovo.’</i></h3> - -<p>Drain a well-boiled cabbage and chop it up very fine. Put into a -frying-pan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one of flour, for every -quart of chopped cabbage. When hot add the cabbage, season with salt, -pepper, and one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and stir constantly -for six or eight minutes. Then put it on a dish, smooth the outside and -garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘Pasticciato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up a cabbage and boil it in an earthen pot. Boil a little -white wine vinegar in a sauce-pan, put in two well-beaten eggs, -three-quarters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> of a pint of clotted cream, and a little butter. Mix -well, when boiling add some salt and pepper, and pour over the cabbage. -Serve it cold.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage ‘in Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up a small cabbage and leave it in cold water for some time, then -dry, take out the hard pieces, and chop up the rest fine. Put it into -an earthen pot with a little salt, and boil for fifteen or twenty -minutes. Then strain and put it on a hot dish, pour a cream, tomato, -mustard, or horse-radish sauce, over it, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage (Rea) ‘alla Fiamminga.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the outer leaves of a red cabbage and cut it in pieces. Put it -into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then dry, and place it in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, a chopped-up onion, a bay leaf, -two cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Boil slowly for about half -an hour, stirring it often. When cooked take out the bay leaf, add a -little butter and serve quickly.</p> - - -<h3 id="tedesca"><i>Cabbage (Red) ‘alla Tedesca.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up the leaves of two small red cabbages in slices. Melt four ounces -of butter in a frying-pan, and when browned, throw in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span> cabbage, -adding a little salt, three tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar, and a -chopped-up onion. Cover the frying-pan and put it on a slow fire for an -hour. Serve up very hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Select large green sweet capsicums, and for each one take half a pound -of minced roast or boiled fowl, half a pound of grated bread-crumbs, -a little salt and pepper, and some chopped parsley and mix; add two -ounces of melted butter and mix again. Meanwhile cut off one end of the -capsicums (remove the seeds), and put the capsicums into a sauce-pan of -boiling water; cover the pan and let it boil for about a quarter of an -hour. Then drain the capsicums well, fill them with the force-meat, and -sprinkle them over with bread-crumbs. Put some butter in an earthen pan -and cook the capsicums in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour.</p> - - -<h3><i>Capsicums ‘Farciti.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Fry six medium-sized green sweet capsicums for one minute in boiling -fat, drain, peel, and cut off the ends, keeping them to use as covers. -Remove the insides and fill them with force-meat made of minced -fresh pork, a spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a -saltspoonful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> of grated nutmeg, and the same of powdered thyme. Put on -the ends, lay the capsicums in a well-oiled baking-dish, add a little -pure olive oil, and put them in a moderate oven to bake for a quarter -of an hour. Turn them on to a hot dish, and serve with a quarter of a -pint of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>), with a little Marsala -added.</p> - - -<h3><i>Capsicums ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut two or more green capsicums in two lengthwise, remove the seeds and -filaments, and parboil them in boiling water for five minutes. Fill -each half with an equal quantity of softened bread-crumb and minced -meat seasoned with butter, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. Then put them -into a baking-dish in half an inch of good stock (or water), and bake. -Serve in the baking-dish, hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Cardoons ‘al Bianco.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and pare two or three pounds of cardoons, cut them lengthwise, -and blanch them in boiling water. Then throw them into cold water to -make them retain their whiteness, and dry them on a clean cloth. Cut -an onion and a carrot into slices, and put them into a sauce-pan with -four ounces of fresh butter, take out the carrot and onion after ten<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> -minutes and mix a tablespoonful of flour into the butter, adding some -broth (or water), to prevent it burning. As soon as the broth (or -water) boils, throw in the cardoons. When done, serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cardoons ‘alla Milanese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Prepare the cardoons as above, then put them one by one in a sauce-pan -with six ounces of fresh melted butter, salt them a little, and add -about three-quarters of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a -little Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>). Cook them with fire above -and below, and serve up hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘all’ Aceto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape six large carrots and wash them well in cold water, cut them in -slices, put them into an earthen pot of boiling water, and boil till -tender. Then drain and dry, put them into a salad bowl and pour some -white wine vinegar over them, with a little chopped onion and celery -and two bay leaves.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘alla Béchamel.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape and wash six or eight large carrots, and slice them very fine. -Cook them slowly in a sauce-pan with two ounces of fresh butter,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span> and -a little pounded sugar, salt, and pepper, and stir them continually. -In another sauce-pan put one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, two -tumblers of cream (or milk), and salt to taste. Cook for about ten -minutes, then pour it over the carrots, and heat again, taking care not -to let them boil.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘alla Casalinga.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up some young carrots into small pieces, and put them into a -sauce-pan with salted boiling water. Leave them to boil for several -minutes, then drain and put them into a sauce-pan, with four ounces -of butter, some salt, and a little pepper, on a hottish fire to bring -out the flavour. Add a little flour, and a little broth (or water), -and boil again, taking care the carrots do not fall to bits. Then make -a sauce with the yolks of two eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and a -little chopped parsley, and pour it over the boiling carrots. Take them -off the fire at once to prevent the eggs from getting hard, put them -on a dish, garnish with fried parsley and fried sippets of bread, and -serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them into very fine slices. -Put them into a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span> sauce-pan and cook slowly with two or three ounces of -butter, a little sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper, and mix well -together. In another sauce-pan mix four ounces of butter, four ounces -of fine flour, two tumblers of cream (or milk), and a pinch of salt. -Boil for about ten minutes until the cream begins to bubble, then pour -it over the carrots, keep them on the fire, but do not let them boil. -Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘Sautées.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape and wash six large carrots and cut them in rounds half an inch -thick. Cook them in white broth (or salted water) for half an hour in -a covered pan. Then drain, put them in a sauté-pan, add a teacupful of -cream (or milk) and three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, -<abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>), some salt, and pepper, and a little nutmeg. Cook for ten -minutes, then place them on a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, -and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘in Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one or two pounds of fine carrots, cut them in pieces, put them -in an earthen pot of boiling water, and cook them until nearly soft. -Meanwhile, put two ounces of butter, half or three-quarters of a pint -of good broth, and one or two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> -into a frying-pan, and cook quickly for ten minutes; then take it off -the fire, add two well-beaten yolks of eggs, and a little salt and -pepper. Then drain the carrots, pour the hot sauce over them, and serve -hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrots ‘allo Zucchero.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and clean two or three pounds of young carrots and cut them up. -Put them in a sauce-pan, add two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, -and water. When cooked, pour a tumbler of cream over them with two -ounces of pounded white sugar, replace the sauce-pan on the fire, being -careful not to let it boil. Then take it off and mix two yolks of eggs, -stirring all well together. Serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘al Borghese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a cauliflower in salted water for one hour, drain, and break it -into bits. Put a layer of cauliflower into a pie-dish, cover with -Béchamel or ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>), and sprinkle -with some grated cheese. Fill the dish with alternate layers of -cauliflowers and sauce, then cover the top with bread-crumbs, grated -cheese, and bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. -Serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and remove the leaves from one large (or two small) cauliflowers, -and wash well in fresh water. Then put the cauliflower into a large -sauce-pan full of cold water, add a handful of salt, one teaspoonful -of pepper, and one ounce of fresh butter, boil for half an hour, and -drain well. Pour a sauce made of one tablespoonful of white wine -vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and one ounce of good butter over -the cauliflower, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take off the outer leaves of a cauliflower (cut the stalk off close), -and wash it in cold water. Tie it up in a piece of linen, stand it -upright in an earthen pot of salted water, and boil for half an hour. -Take it out carefully, drain, remove the linen, and put the cauliflower -in a dish. Pour a hot ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) over -it and serve at once. Or you can make a sauce of two ounces of fresh -butter, one tablespoonful of fine flour, well mixed in a frying-pan, -add three-quarters of a pint of milk, stir till it boils, then add a -little salt and cheese.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a large cauliflower as in last recipe (alla Crema). When -dried place it in a baking-pan.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> Mix two ounces of butter and one -tablespoonful of flour in a frying-pan, add three-quarters of a pint -of milk, and stir continually till it boils. Then put in a bay leaf, a -little chopped parsley, some salt and pepper, and boil for ten minutes -in a Bain-marie. Then take out the bay leaf and pour the sauce over the -cauliflower, sprinkling it with bread-crumbs. Put some bits of fresh -butter on it, and bake in a very hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘al Fritto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the leaves and clean a fine cauliflower, break it into pieces, -parboil in salted water, drain, and put it to cool. Whip up two or -three eggs (according to the size of your cauliflower), dip each piece -of cauliflower in, then roll it in bread-crumbs, fry in boiling butter -on both sides, sprinkle with grated cheese, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘al Gratin.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a head of cauliflower in salted water, then break it in small -pieces into a sauté-pan with four ounces of fresh butter. As soon as it -boils put it on a dish and pour a Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>) -over it. Put it in the oven, and when browned serve in the same dish.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘alla Piemontese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a fine cauliflower in salted water, and when done pour the -following sauce over it: Chop up one small onion and one or two -anchovies very fine, cook with some butter and stock, add a few drops -of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of sweet herbs chopped up fine. Cook for -a few minutes just before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower ‘in Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the outer leaves and clean a fine cauliflower; cut it into -several pieces and wash them well in cold water. Put them into an -earthen pot of salted boiling water, and cook quickly for twenty or -thirty minutes until they are quite tender. Take them out without -breaking, and place them on pieces of buttered toast. Then put some -butter in a frying-pan, add a little flour, mixed with some broth, stir -well till it boils, then add six finely chopped mushrooms, and cook a -little more. Take it off the fire and add three whipped yolks of fresh -eggs, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the juice of one lemon. Pour -this sauce over and round the cauliflower and serve. The sauce must not -be boiled after adding the eggs.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Celery ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the green leaves and pare four or five heads of celery, cut -into pieces two inches long,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span> wash well, and dry on a napkin. Blanch in -boiling water for five minutes, drain, and put into a sauté-pan with -two ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of fine flour. Stir -well together, add half a pint of good consommé, and reduce for twenty -minutes. Then thicken with two yolks of eggs beaten up with half a -teacupful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Serve up hot, garnished -with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery ‘al Fritto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the green leaves and cut the white stalks of the celery into -bits one inch long. Clean, and put them into boiling water for fifteen -minutes, then dry on a napkin. Beat up a fresh egg with stock (or hot -water), add a little salt and pepper, throw the celery in, then roll -them in bread-crumbs, and fry in butter or fine white lard. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take six large heads of celery, cut off the green leaves, leaving -three inches of stalk attached to the root; clean, and cut in half. -Blanch, and put into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, lard, ham, salt -and pepper. Let them get cold, then dip them into the yolk of egg and -bread-crumbs, and fry in fresh butter. Lay them in a dish and pour a -Tomato sauce, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span> tomato conserve heated, over them. Serve hot. (See -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery ‘alla Parmigiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take six large heads of celery and cook as above. But when cooked, -drain, lay in a dish, sprinkle with finely grated Parmesan cheese, pour -melted fresh butter over them, and put into the oven until they have -taken a good colour. Pour a little gravy lightly over, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery ‘al Pomidoro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the green leaves and clean the stalks of six heads of celery, -wash them in cold water, then throw them into an earthen pot of boiling -salt water, and boil fast for twenty minutes. Drain, dry well, put them -on a dish, and pour a pint of tomato sauce, or tomato conserve heated, -over them. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery Stewed.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the white outside stalks of celery into lengths of three inches, -and boil them for half an hour in salted water. Drain, and put them -into clear strained stock, adding a little minced onion and parsley. -Boil until the celery is tender, add two ounces of butter stirred up -with flour and shake the stew until thickened. Serve hot, pouring the -sauce over the celery.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Béchamel.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and pare six small cucumbers, and blanch them in salted boiling -water for five minutes. Drain, and put them in a sauté-pan with half a -pint of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>), half an ounce of butter, -a little grated nutmeg, and three tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook for -fifteen minutes, put them on a hot dish, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Comasca.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and slice two cucumbers very fine, and put salt and pepper, and -taragon vinegar over them. Then slice an onion and lay it on the -cucumbers, leaving them to pickle for fifteen minutes. Remove the onion -and some of the liquid before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel six cucumbers, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds, and -put them into cold water for half an hour. Place them in a covered -sauce-pan of salted boiling water and cook them for half an hour, then -lay them on a hot dish. Melt some butter in a sauce-pan and mix in one -tablespoonful of flour, then add half a pint of milk and stir till -it boils; add a little salt and pepper, take the sauce-pan off the -fire, add a little more butter, and pour the sauce over the cucumbers. -Garnish with croûtons (fried bread), and serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘Farciti.’</i></h3> - -<p>Choose cucumbers of about the same size and cut them in two lengthwise. -Remove the seeds carefully with a spoon, and fill with a stuffing -made of equal parts of minced chicken (or other white meat) and soft -bread-crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, one egg, and a little stock. -Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs, and lay them into half an inch of -stock in a baking-dish. Bake in a moderate oven until the cucumbers are -soft, filling up the stock when necessary. Put them carefully in a hot -dish and pour the gravy out of the baking-dish, thickened with a very -little flour, round them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘in Istufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel two or three cucumbers, cut them into quarters, and take out -the seeds. Put two ounces of fresh butter and a sliced onion into a -frying-pan, fry until the onion is browned, add the cucumbers and stir -them well until browned. Then take them out of the frying-pan. Put some -more butter into the pan, stir it well with the rest, add a little -broth, and mix till it boils, and add a little salt and pepper. Then -put the cucumbers in, cover them, and leave them to cook slowly for -twenty minutes. Put them on slices of buttered toast and serve up hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel four or five cucumbers, cut them into halves, and remove all the -seeds. Then cut them into small pieces and boil in water until soft. -Strain, and dry them well on a napkin. Mix two ounces of butter with a -spoonful of flour over the fire, add salt and pepper, stir well, and -add a tumbler of cream. Put in the cucumbers and heat them without -letting them boil.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Spagnuola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel two cucumbers, cut them in half and take out the seeds. Fill them -with force-meat and tie the halves together. Put some lard, raw veal, -two carrots, two onions, some parsley, several bay leaves, some thyme, -salt, and pepper, and the cucumbers covered with lard, into a sauce-pan -with some strong broth, and cook for five or six minutes. Drain, and -then pour a sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) over the cucumbers -before serving up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘alla Toscana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and blanch three or four cucumbers in salted boiling water for -five minutes. Drain, cut them into pieces one inch thick, and put them -into a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, a little flour, half a pint -of veal broth, stir well, and add some salt and pepper. Reduce for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span> -about fifteen minutes, stirring until it boils, add one teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half a cupful of -cream and the beaten-up yolks of two eggs. Put on the fire again for -three or four minutes (do not let it boil) and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumbers ‘all’ Uova.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel three large cucumbers and blanch them in salted boiling water for -five minutes. Drain, and cut them into pieces an inch thick. Put them -in a sauté-pan with one ounce of butter, sprinkle a little fine white -flour over them, stir, and add a half pint of veal broth, with salt and -pepper to taste. Stir well until it boils, reduce the whole for fifteen -minutes, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated -nutmeg, two yolks of eggs beaten up, and two tablespoonfuls of cream. -Cook again for three or four minutes, but do not let it boil, and serve -hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Farcite.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut each egg-plant into four, leaving the peel on. Make four cuts in -each piece and fry in boiling fat for one minute. Remove the fleshy -part of the egg plant and fill it with any force-meat you have. -Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and a little melted butter, brown in -the oven for about ten minutes, and serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two (or more) of the fruits for twenty or thirty minutes (until -tender). Then cut them in two lengthwise and take out the pulp, being -careful not to break the skin. Mash the pulp up with some butter, salt, -and pepper, and replace it in the skins. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and -bits of fresh butter, and put it in the oven to brown.</p> - - -<h3><i>Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Fritto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel a fruit and cut it into round slices about half an inch thick, -sprinkle with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper, -dip the slices into beaten-up egg and fresh bread-crumbs, and then fry -in hot fat for five minutes. Take them out, give a very slight sprinkle -of salt, and drain them well. Serve very hot on a napkin.</p> - - -<h3><i>Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘alla Griglia.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel a large fruit and cut it into slices half an inch thick, put them -in a dish and season with salt and pepper, and pour a tablespoonful -of pure olive oil over them. Mix well, then broil the slices for five -minutes on both sides. Place them on a hot dish, pour a quarter of a -pint of Butter sauce over them (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_122">122</a>), adding a little -chopped parsley, and serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Egg-Plant (Aubergine) ‘Sauté.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel one or two fruits and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch -thick. Sprinkle with salt, and pile them one on the top of the other -on the underside of a plate. Put a weighted plate on the top of the -pile and let it stand for an hour to press out the juice. Then dip the -slices in egg and bread-crumbs, or in egg and flour, and sauté on both -sides in lard or dripping. Serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Flan of Celery.</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and boil three or four heads of celery. Then drain well, and chop -them up very fine. Mix one tablespoonful of flour and three-quarters -of an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and add the celery and one pint -of milk. Reduce, then take the sauce-pan off the fire, and when cold -add the yolks of six eggs, and some allspice. Put all into a shape, and -cook it slowly with fire above and below, or in an oven, for half an -hour. An Alla Panna sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) can be served with it.</p> - - -<h3><i>Flan of Potatoes.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one or two pounds of potatoes, cut them into slices, and put -them into a sauce-pan with four ounces of fresh butter and a tumbler -of cream (or milk). Cook until the potatoes are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> quite soft, mash -them, and pass them through a cullender. Then mix six yolks, and four -beaten-up whites of eggs, and two and a half ounces of white powdered -sugar, with the potatoes, and put the whole into a buttered shape, -well covered with bread-crumbs (and holding more than the quantity of -potatoes). Cook with fire above and below for about half an hour (or in -an oven). A Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>) can be served with the -Flan.</p> - - -<h3><i>Flan of Vegetables.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, strain, boil, and cut up fine about two pounds of different -vegetables, potatoes, spinach, cardoons, etc., and sweet herbs. Boil -them in a sauce-pan with some good stock; when cooked, add a teacupful -of cream (or milk), stir well together and leave them to cool. Then -add four yolks of eggs, some grated cheese, and the white of the eggs -beaten up. Put the vegetables into a buttered shape, well covered with -bread-crumbs, cook with fire above and below, or in the oven.</p> - -<p>(Flans can be made of any other vegetables, such as fennel, French -beans, cauliflower, etc.)</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Fritto ‘Misto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut one or two young green pumpkins in thin slices about as long as a -finger and half as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> wide, and lay them on a plate with a little salt. -Mix three ounces of butter and three tablespoonfuls of flour in a -sauce-pan and boil for two minutes, add half a tumbler of cream, half -a tumbler of chicken broth, and boil till it is a stiff Béchamel. Then -mince three breasts of cooked chicken, two slices of tongue, and one -small truffle, mix with the Béchamel and roll into small balls, then -dip into egg and grated bread and put aside till wanted. Take ten or -twelve pumpkin flowers, some young artichokes properly prepared and -cut into quarters (if not quite young and tender they must be boiled -first), some cauliflower and bits of cardoon, dip them in egg and dust -them with flour. Do the same to some parboiled calves’ brains, flour -the slices of pumpkin, and fry all together in pure olive oil. Use -dripping or lard for frying if you have not got good oil. Season with a -sprinkling of salt. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Fritto of Vegetables.</i></h3> - -<p>Instead of chicken and calves’ brains mix minced mushrooms or truffles -with the Béchamel and roll into balls. In winter, large yellow pumpkins -and potatoes must be sliced.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Jerusalem Artichokes ‘al Bianco.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and cut two dozen Jerusalem artichokes into pieces about half -an inch long, wash and put<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> them into a stew-pan with half an ounce -of fresh butter, and a quarter of an ounce of white pounded sugar. -Put them on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls -of white sauce, eight of veal broth (or milk), and simmer until the -Jerusalem artichokes are soft, then skim, mix the yolk of an egg with -two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour it into the stew-pan, stir quickly, -and serve hot. The Jerusalem artichokes must be well cooked, but not -reduced to a pulp.</p> - - -<h3><i>Jerusalem Artichokes in Purée.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash well and boil twelve Jerusalem artichokes in three pints of water -with one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of salt. When soft, chop -them up; meanwhile cook slowly in a stew-pan one sliced onion, a little -celery, half a turnip, two ounces of butter, one of ham, three or four -bay leaves, and a little grated nutmeg. Put in the artichokes, stir, -and add one tablespoonful of flour and one pint (or less) of milk to -form a proper thickness when boiled. Pass through a fine hair sieve and -serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Leeks ‘alla Casalinga.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the root, peel the white part of the leek (about three inches), -and blanch them in hot water. Dry, braise them in butter, stock, and a -little sugar; and when well glacé serve at once.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Leeks ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long, and put them -into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling water, and -when done throw them again into cold water. Melt some fresh butter -in a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add seven -tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, a -sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, and the yolk of an egg. Mix well, then -put the leeks into a baking dish and brown them slightly in the oven. -Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Leeks ‘alla Salza Bianca.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take twenty leeks, cut them into pieces two inches long and put -them into cold water. Then boil them in plenty of salted boiling -water, when done throw them again into cold water. Put fresh butter -into a sauce-pan and simmer the leeks over a slow fire, add five -tablespoonfuls of a white sauce made with cream and chicken broth, and -a little pepper. Serve up hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Lentils ‘alla Corona.’</i></h3> - -<p>After boiling one pint of lentils with a bouquet of sweet herbs, strain -them. Meanwhile mince some ham with a very little onion<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span> and put it to -brown with some butter; then add one or two ladlefuls of good stock, -boil, and strain. Pour this sauce over the lentils with a good piece of -butter, salt and pepper to taste, heat them, and garnish boiled beef or -pork with them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentils ‘in Istufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put an earthen pot on the fire, and just before the water boils throw -in one pint of lentils. As it boils skim off the lentils which float to -the surface, and continue to do this until all are taken out; the few -which remain at the bottom of the pot must be strained through a sieve. -Chop up two anchovies, place them in a sauce-pan with some pure oil -and butter, and a little minced shallot, brown them well, put in the -lentils, and then add some good stock or soup. When cooked serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentils ‘alla Provenzale.’</i></h3> - -<p>Leave one pint of lentils in cold water for twelve hours. Strain, put -them into hot water, and boil them rapidly; then cook them slowly for -about an hour, drain them well, put them back into boiling water and -cook until quite soft. Pass them through a sieve, and put them into a -sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, a very little onion juice, pepper -and salt to taste,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span> and stir for a quarter of an hour over the fire. -Serve up very hot. Two tablespoonfuls of cream are a good addition.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentil Purée.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the lentils in water with a spoonful of butter, then rub them -through a sieve. Put some minced parsley, celery, carrot, and a very -little onion on the fire with two or three ounces of butter; when -brown, pour in a ladleful of good stock. Strain, flavour the lentils -with it, adding salt and pepper to taste. The purée should be pretty -stiff.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentils ‘al Riso.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cook the lentils as in ‘alla Provenzale.’ Then take half a pint of rice -and put it into an earthen pot of boiling water. When cooked, drain the -rice through a sieve, and stand it near the fire for ten or fifteen -minutes to dry. Place two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when -melted, add a small onion chopped up fine; when browned, put in the -lentils and rice, and stir them over the fire for a quarter of an hour. -Add a little salt and pepper, and serve up very hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce ‘Farcite.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut off the roots, wash, and clean five or six lettuce heads. Put -them into boiling water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> for five minutes, then fill the inside with -force-meat. Tie the tops together, and put them in a sauce-pan, adding -a quarter of a pint of Marsala sauce, and the same of good white broth. -Add salt and pepper to taste, cover the sauce-pan with buttered paper, -and cook in the oven for fifteen minutes. Place the lettuces on a hot -dish (having untied them), pour the sauce over, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the lettuce, remove the faded leaves, and cut off the root. Tie -the tops together, lay the lettuces side by side in a baking-pan, and -pour in one and a half inches of stock. Cover the pan and put it in a -moderate oven for half an hour, adding stock when necessary. Place a -fork under the middle of each lettuce, raise and drain, and lay them -doubled up on a hot dish. Season the gravy in the pan with butter, salt -and pepper, thicken with one beaten egg, and pour it over the lettuce. -Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce ‘alla Spagnuola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Remove the lower leaves and cut twelve fine lettuces in half, blanch, -then drain, and put them into a sauce-pan; sprinkle with salt, and -cover them with slices of lard and ham, moisten with a little broth, -cover the pan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> with greased paper, and cook in the oven. Drain and -remove the fat, then roll the lettuces in the shape of prunes, and lay -them on croûtons of buttered toast. Pour some sauce ‘Suprema’ (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) over them, and serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h2>MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTES.</h2> - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Béchamel.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>) and -put it into a sauce-pan with three ounces of good fresh butter, -tossing until the butter is thoroughly absorbed. Then add five or six -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, one spoonful of salt, a little pepper -and grated nutmeg, and quarter of a pint of sauce ‘<a href="#bechamel">alla Béchamel</a>’ (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>). Toss well together, without stirring, and heat for -five minutes. Place in a deep dish and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three-quarters pound of fresh maccaroni in plenty of salted water -for three quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with two cloves -and half an ounce of butter. Drain it well (taking out the onion) and -put it back in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, four ounces of -grated Swiss cheese, and four of grated Parmesan cheese,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> a small pinch -of nutmeg, and a pinch of pepper. Add half a pint of veal broth, and -four or five tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook for five minutes, stirring -well, and as soon as the maccaroni is ropy serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in above recipe. When -drained, put it into a baking dish, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and -grated Parmesan cheese, pour a little clarified fresh butter over it, -and place it in the oven for ten minutes. When of a golden colour serve -up at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Break some large maccaroni into pieces about four inches long, and stew -it in consommé or veal broth until tender. Put a layer of maccaroni in -a dish, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and Gruyère cheese grated fine. -Repeat the layers until the dish is full, then cover the top with a -thick layer of the cheese, some finely grated bread-crumbs, and small -bits of fresh butter. Bake long enough to brown the top, and serve at -once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Break enough maccaroni into bits one and a half or two inches long to -half-fill a pie-dish.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span> Put it into salted boiling water, and boil for -twelve or fifteen minutes until perfectly soft. Shake the sauce-pan -often, or the maccaroni will stick to the bottom. Drain it well, then -put it into the dish with butter, salt, and grated cheese. Fill the -dish with milk, so as to cover the maccaroni, and bake until the milk -is absorbed and the top browned. For every half-pound of maccaroni one -and a half tablespoonfuls of melted butter must be used. Middle-sized -maccaroni is the best for this dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘au Gratin.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched maccaroni (see <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>). Make a -good white sauce, mix in plenty of grated Parmesan cheese, and add salt -and pepper to taste. Place the maccaroni and sauce in a dish, and bake -in a moderate oven until browned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Prepare three-quarters of a pound of fresh maccaroni as in ‘alla -Crema.’ Then place it in a sauce-pan with a gill of Vellutata sauce -(see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>), to which add a little Marsala, and a quarter of a -pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Add very little salt, some pepper and -nutmeg, and cook slowly for ten minutes, tossing frequently. Serve on a -hot dish with grated Parmesan cheese separately.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘al Latte.’</i></h3> - -<p>Parboil three-quarters pound of long maccaroni in salted water, then -drain it well. Put half an ounce of flour and two ounces of butter into -a sauce-pan and stir them well; when they begin to colour, pour one and -a quarter to one and a half pints of milk in gradually, and boil for -ten minutes. Then put in the maccaroni and one ounce of grated Gruyère -cheese, stand the sauce-pan on the edge of the fire to simmer, and let -the maccaroni absorb the milk. When cooked, add one and a half ounces -more butter and one and a half ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, put -the maccaroni into a baking dish and cover it with grated bread-crumbs. -Place it in an oven and serve when browned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Napolitana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil and prepare three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla -Crema.’ Drain, and put it in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce -‘Suprema,’ half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>), -a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, two truffles, six -mushrooms, and half an ounce of tongue, all cut up into small pieces. -Cook over a sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing well all the time, and -serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Quaresima.’</i></h3> - -<p>Parboil twelve ounces of maccaroni and drain it well. Put one onion, -a little parsley, and six anchovies all finely chopped up, into a -frying-pan with butter, and fry for six or eight minutes; add this to -the maccaroni with half a tumbler of white wine, one of fish soup (or -water), and a pinch of white pepper, boil over a slow fire for twenty -minutes, and serve at once sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Semplice.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil twelve ounces of maccaroni in salted boiling water, then drain -well and put them on a hot dish. Pour four ounces of fresh melted -butter over them and mix in gradually six ounces of grated Swiss -cheese. Stir with two forks, and sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese -thickly over before serving hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘alla Siciliana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Blanch (see <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_3">3</a>) and strain about three-quarters of a pound of fresh -maccaroni and cut it into small pieces, then mince one pound of roast -veal, four ounces of ham, slice four hard-boiled eggs, and mix with -one and a half tablespoonfuls of finely chopped-up sweet herbs, add<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span> -salt and pepper to taste. Butter a mould, and sprinkle it well with -bread-crumbs, then line it with thin paste; put in alternate layers of -maccaroni sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, and of force-meat, -until the mould is full; add half a pint of good stock, cover with -paste and bake in a slow oven for about forty minutes. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Milanese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one pound of flour, one pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce -of salt, and one wineglassful of water, and work the paste well; roll -it out thin and cover carefully the inside of a timbale shape. If any -air bubbles remain between the paste and the shape, prick them to let -out the air. Cook three-quarters of a pound of maccaroni in salted -boiling water, drain, and put it into a sauce-pan with some good gravy, -two ounces of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and some grated Gruyère -cheese; mix well, pour into the mould, and cover with a piece of paste -which fits, passing some white of egg with a brush round the join. Bake -in the oven for three-quarters of an hour, turn the timbale carefully -out of the shape and serve. The timbale can be enriched by adding thin -slices of hare, veal, or sweetbread, truffles and small mushrooms to -the maccaroni.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Maccaroni ‘Timbale alla Napolitana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil half a pound of maccaroni as in ‘alla Crema.’ Prepare a timbale -shape about seven inches in diameter and butter it. Arrange long -maccaroni round and round the mould inside until it is covered, and -then stand it in the ice-box until wanted. Put the remaining maccaroni -into a sauce-pan with two ounces of good butter, tossing well for -five minutes, then add a tablespoonful of salt and a little cayenne -pepper, five tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, and a quarter of -a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>), and again toss all well -together. Add some thin slices of truffles and boiled tongue, toss -for two minutes, and take it off the fire to cool for a quarter of an -hour. Then fill the mould with the maccaroni, taking great care not -to disturb the inside coil of maccaroni. Put the mould into a large -sauce-pan, filled to only half the height of the mould with water, and -place it in a moderate oven to cook for one hour. When done turn the -timbale carefully out of the mould on to a hot dish, pour a little hot -Tomato sauce round it, and serve.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h2>OTHER PASTES.</h2> - -<h3><i>Agnellotti ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take the meat of a boiled chicken (hare, pheasant, or any game will do -as well) and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> pound in a mortar with one truffle, two ounces of crumb -of bread soaked in veal broth, two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, -the same of pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. When well worked into -a paste rub it through a sieve. Meanwhile take one pound of flour, -three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a pinch of salt, mix up into -a paste and work it well. Lay it aside for half an hour, then roll it -out very thin, divide it in half and let it dry. Then take one half and -put the meat paste on it in little heaps (half a teaspoonful) about -three inches distant from each other. Cover them with the other half -of paste, cut round the little heaps, and press the edges of the two -pastes together to prevent the meat stuffing from coming out. Put the -agnellotti into a sauce-pan with a great deal of salted boiling water -in it, and boil slowly. When done take them out with a strainer, season -with butter, grated Parmesan cheese, and good gravy. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Crescioni.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a bunch of spinach, drain it well and put it to simmer with some -pure olive oil, a taste of shallot, some chopped parsley, and salt and -pepper to taste: season with some raisins (stoned) and some currants, -and a little sugar. Put the spinach into rounds of paste made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> of flour -and eggs, about two inches in diameter, and fold the paste over the -spinach (as you make a turnover). Fry in pure olive oil.</p> - - -<h3><i>Gnocchi ‘alla Romana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Mix five and a half ounces of flour and two eggs in a sauce-pan, add -one pint of milk by degrees, and three-quarters of an ounce of Gruyère -cheese cut into bits. When the paste is cooked put in salt to taste, -and three-quarters of an ounce of good butter, spread it in a dish to -the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and let it cool. Then cut -it into small square pieces and pile it in layers in a baking-dish with -three-quarters of an ounce of good butter in bits, and three-quarters -of an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese between the layers (but not on -the outside). Brown with the salamander or in a hot oven, and serve at -once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Gnocchi of Semolina.</i></h3> - -<p>Take one pint of milk, four and a half ounces of semolina and boil; -before taking it off the fire add salt to taste, one ounce of good -butter, and three-quarters of an ounce of Parmesan cheese. Before it -gets cold mix in two eggs, then pour it out on a dish, spreading it in -an even thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. When cold cut it -in small square<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span> pieces. Pile them one on another in a vegetable dish, -adding between each layer one ounce of good butter in bits, and some -grated Parmesan cheese (but not on the top), put the gnocchi into a hot -oven to be slightly browned, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pappardelle with Hare.</i></h3> - -<p>Make a paste with flour, and three eggs, roll it about the thickness of -a florin, and cut it into strips the width of a finger. Boil in salted -water and put it aside to dry. Cut up the fillets, or the thighs of -a hare (about eight ounces) into small pieces, mince one and a half -ounces of bacon, half a small onion, half a carrot, and a quarter of a -head of celery, and put them to cook with three-quarters of an ounce -of butter, and season with salt and pepper. When browned, sprinkle the -meat with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten it with one wine-glassful -of gravy, and let it simmer for a time, adding one and a quarter ounces -of butter and a little grated nutmeg. Place the pappardelle (the strips -of paste) on a hot dish, grate a little Parmesan cheese over them, add -the hare condiment, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spaghetti ‘con Acciughe.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take twelve ounces of medium-sized spaghetti, parboil in slightly -salted water; meanwhile<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span> wash and bone five anchovies, chop them up -fine and put them into a sauce-pan with an abundance of pure olive -oil, and a pinch of pepper. Do not let them boil, but when hot add two -ounces of butter and the pulp of one or two tomatoes (or some tomato -conserve). Pour this sauce over the spaghetti and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spaghetti ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted -water for three-quarters of an hour, adding an onion with two or three -cloves stuck into it and half an ounce of butter. Drain and place them -in a sauce-pan with half a pint of sauce ‘<a href="#tedesca">Alla Tedesca</a>’ and half a pint -of sauce ‘<a href="#bechamel">Alla Béchamel</a>.’ Add a good pinch of pepper, a little grated -nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyère cheese. Toss well, -then put them in a baking-dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese -and bread-crumbs, pour a little clarified butter over them, and put -into the oven. When baked a golden colour (about fifteen minutes) serve -up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spaghetti ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the spaghetti as above (‘al Forno’), drain, add one pint of Tomato -sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>) (or conserve) and a quarter of a pound of -grated cheese, add a little pepper and grated nutmeg,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> and cook for -ten minutes, tossing well. Serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese -separate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spaghetti ‘alla Napolitana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three-quarters of a pound of fresh spaghetti in plenty of salted -water for three-quarters of an hour, with an onion stuck with cloves, -and half an ounce of butter. Drain and put them into a saucepan with -half a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>) (or tomato conserve), -half a pint of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>), two truffles, -seven or eight mushrooms, and a piece of smoked tongue, all cut up -small. Add a little pepper, grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of -grated Parmesan cheese. Cook for ten minutes, tossing well, serve hot -with some grated Parmesan cheese separate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spaghetti, Timbaletti di.</i></h3> - -<p>Slide long pieces of spaghetti (or small maccaroni) gently into a -sauce-pan, turning them round so that they should not be broken. Boil -in salted water until tender, then lay them straight out on a cloth to -cool. Butter small moulds (about three inches high), and wind spaghetti -round inside them, beginning at the bottom. As you wind, fill each -mould with boiled maccaroni, pieces of sweetbread cut into small bits, -and button mushrooms,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> already cooked and prepared. Fill the moulds -rather tight, or the timbaletti will not stand up, cover them with -buttered paper, and stand them in a pan of hot water to cook in a slow -oven for half an hour. Turn the timbaletti carefully out of the moulds, -pour a little gravy round them, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tagliarini ‘al Formaggio.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one pound of flour, three eggs, half a tumbler of milk, and a -pinch of salt, mix up into a paste and work it well. Lay it aside -for half an hour, then roll it out very thin and let it dry before -cutting it into long thin strips (tagliarini). Boil these in salted -water over a very slow fire for twenty minutes and then drain well. -Meanwhile prepare four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, five ounces -of grated Gruyère, and six ounces of butter; put a layer of tagliarini -into a baking-dish, and cover them with cheese and butter. Repeat the -alternate layers of tagliarini, cheese and butter, until the dish is -full. Sprinkle the top with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, bake in -the oven for quarter of an hour and serve in the baking-dish very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tagliatelle with Ham.</i></h3> - -<p>Make a stiff paste with flour and eggs, roll it to the thickness of a -florin, cut it into strips<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> half or three-quarters of an inch broad, -and parboil with a very little salt. Meanwhile cut up into small square -pieces a thick slice of ham, mince some carrot and celery (about the -same in quantity as the ham) and put them into a frying-pan with two, -or more, ounces of butter. When they begin to brown add some tomato -juice (or tomato conserve) and a cupful of broth (or water). Place -the tagliatelle, well strained, on to a hot dish, season with grated -Parmesan cheese, some bits of butter, and the ham.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tagliatelle ‘alla Romagnola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put one clove of garlic (or a sliced onion) and a bunch of parsley into -a frying-pan with some pure olive oil. As soon as the garlic (or onion) -begins to brown, add six or seven tomatoes cut in slices, and salt and -pepper to taste. When they are cooked strain off the gravy. Meanwhile -make a paste as in ‘Tagliatelle with Ham,’ parboil in plenty of -slightly salted water, then put it into a sauce-pan, pour the hot gravy -over it, add some butter and a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, mix, and -serve at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tagliatelle with Sausages.</i></h3> - -<p>Prepare the tagliatelle as in the recipe ‘with Ham,’ only substitute -sausages for the ham.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Tortelli.</i></h3> - -<p>Take seven ounces of curds (squeeze them through a cloth to extract -all the water), one and a half ounce of Parmesan cheese, one egg, and -one yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg and some allspice, a pinch -of salt, and a little chopped-up parsley. Mix well together and put -a spoonful on to little rounds of paste (about two and a half inches -in diameter). Fold the paste over the curds, as you would a turnover, -and put them into boiling salted water. Take them out with a strainer, -season with butter and Parmesan cheese and serve hot. The quantities -given ought to make about twenty-four tortelli.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Macedoine of Vegetables.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut one carrot and one turnip into small dice, balls, or any fancy -shapes; take a quarter of a pint of green peas, a quarter of a pint -of young flageolet beans, a quarter of a pint of French beans cut -into slices half an inch long, and some small pieces of cauliflower. -Boil each vegetable separate, and drain them well before mixing them -together lightly with a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ or ‘Alla Béchamel’ (see -Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>), or a seasoning of melted butter, pepper, and -salt.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Pratajuoli<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>) ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> Agaricus campestris. The mushroom usually cultivated in -England.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Take large mushrooms, clean them carefully, break off the stalks and -peel the tops, put them on a gridiron, season with a little pepper and -salt, turn them, and when done serve up on a very hot dish; put a good -piece of fresh butter on to each, and a squeeze of lemon. Place them in -a hot oven for a minute, or even in front of a hot fire, and serve on -buttered toast.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>) ‘alla Casalinga’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Peel two pounds of fine mushrooms and put them into fresh water. Melt -four ounces of butter in a sauce-pan with two or three spoonfuls of -pure olive oil, one or two leaves of mint, an anchovy finely chopped -up, and a little pounded parsley. Stir well together, put the mushrooms -into the sauce-pan, having first dried them well, and sprinkled them -with salt, then cook slowly. Serve up on slices of bread fried in -butter, and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Pratajuoli<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a>) ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> Agaricus campestris.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Take one pound of fine mushrooms, break off the stalks, clean, wash, -and drain them. (If<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> very large divide them in two.) Put them into a -sauté-pan with one ounce of fresh butter, season with one spoonful of -salt and half a spoonful of pepper, and cover the pan. Cook over a -moderate fire for six or seven minutes, then add half a cupful of cream -and two tablespoonfuls of Vellutata sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_127">127</a>). Cook -for four minutes, and serve at once in a hot dish with croûtons (fried -bread).</p> - - - -<p><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>) ‘alla Francese’.</i></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Peel two pounds of mushrooms, wash, drain, cut them into halves and -pickle them for one hour in pure olive oil, salt and pepper. Put some -pure olive oil into a clean frying-pan, throw in the mushrooms and add -some finely chopped-up parsley. When done put them on slices of bread -fried in fresh butter and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>) Fried. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Clean and wash some large mushrooms thoroughly; put them into a -sauce-pan with a bay leaf, a clove of garlic (or an onion), a little -thyme, salt, and a ladleful of water flavoured with a few drops of -vinegar or lemon. Boil for two minutes, then drain, and cut them into -slices. Throw the slices into a paste made of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span> flour, one or two yolks of eggs, a -little white wine (or water), and half a teaspoonful of pure olive oil. -Fry in pure olive oil over a good fire, and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a>) Fried. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Choose porcini of a medium size, clean, and wash them well, but do not -let them soak, as it spoils the flavour. Cut them into slices and flour -well before throwing them into the frying-pan. Fry in pure olive oil, -and season with salt and pepper while they are frying.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>) Grilled.</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Remove the skin of some medium-sized heads of porcini (keep the -stalks), clean, wash, and put them on a napkin to dry. Make a stuffing -of the stalks, some parsley, a very little garlic (or onion), and put a -small portion inside each mushroom head, salt according to taste, with -a pinch of pepper; season with olive oil, place the heads thus prepared -on a gridiron, and cook them over a slow fire for about a quarter of an -hour. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>) ‘all’ Intingolo.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Put several peeled mushrooms into a sauce-pan with two or four ounces -of butter (according<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span> to the quantity of mushrooms used), add a small -bunch of parsley and two or three small onions. Put them on the fire, -mix with a little flour, a tumbler of soup, half a tumbler of white -wine, the same of clear gravy, and boil for an hour. Then skim off the -grease, add a little more gravy if required, dust with flour, and put -back to cook with salt and pepper to taste. Serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Prugnuoli<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>) ‘alla Spagnuola.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Agaricus Georgii (or Tricholoma Georgii).</p> - -</div> - -<p>Wash and clean one pound of prugnuoli and put them into a sauté-pan -with two ounces of butter, a little flour, salt and pepper, and cook -over a brisk fire for ten minutes. Moisten well with chicken broth, -and add a little sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) (made with -chicken broth). Prepare croûtons (fried bread) on a hot dish, and after -sprinkling the juice of half a lemon over the mushrooms, put them on -the bread and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Dormienti<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a>) ‘al Sugo.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> Hygrophorus Marzuolus.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Clean and wash well one pound of dormienti, put them into a sauté-pan -with two ounces of butter, a little flour, salt and pepper; boil for a -quarter of an hour, and add three tablespoonfuls<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> of veal broth. Prepare croûtons -(fried bread) on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the -mushrooms, place them on the bread and serve.</p> - - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Pratajuoli<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>) on Toast.</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> Agaricus campestris.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Choose large fresh mushrooms, peel, and break the stalks off level; -sprinkle pepper and salt on them and place a small piece of butter -on each. Melt some butter in a frying-pan and put the mushrooms in, -covering the pan closely with buttered paper. Fry slowly for ten -minutes, then place the mushrooms on buttered toast, and serve at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Porcini<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>) with Tomato Sauce.</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> Boletus edulis.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Clean and cut the porcini into small pieces, wash, dry, and put them -into a sauce-pan with one clove of garlic (or a little onion), and -a little salt, adding some tomato conserve or the pulp of two raw -tomatoes without skin or seeds, after pounding it well. Serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mushrooms (Ovoli<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>) ‘Trippati.’</i></h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[16]</a> Amanita Caesarea.</p> - -</div> - -<p>Choose the ovoli young whilst still closed and of the form of an egg. -Clean and wash them and cut them into thin slices. Fry in good<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> butter, -and season with salt, pepper, and grated Parmesan cheese. A little -gravy is an improvement. Serve hot with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Onions ‘Farcite.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil six large onions for an hour in their skins. After draining, -peel them and cut out their centres. Meanwhile prepare the following -stuffing: Chop up fine four ounces of ham, or tongue, add grated bread, -some melted butter, one or two tablespoonfuls of cream, a little salt -and pepper. Mix well into a paste and fill the centre of the onions -with it, then put them into a frying-pan, sprinkle them with a Butter -sauce, and grated bread, and cook them with fire above and below, or in -the oven. Just before serving pour ‘Alla Panna’ sauce over them (see -Sauces, pp. <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Onions Fried.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and slice four medium-sized onions and put them into milk for a -short time, then dip them in flour and fry them in very hot fat for -eight or ten minutes. Strain, put them on a napkin to dry, and serve on -a hot dish garnished with fried parsley.</p> - - -<h3><i>Onions ‘Glacées.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel twelve large onions and put them into boiling water for about -twenty minutes. Then<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> drain, throw them into cold water, remove the -two outer skins, and cut out their centres. Stand the onions in a -frying-pan and put a teaspoonful of sugar into the centre of each, add -four ounces of butter and cook them slowly until soft and slightly -browned. Add some strong broth, a little at a time, and let it cook -until it becomes reduced, keeping the frying-pan covered. Sprinkle the -onions with the sauce and they will be well glacées.</p> - - -<h3><i>Onions (Small White).</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three-quarters of a pound of small white onions, then put them -into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter and a little flour, and cook -them till they turn a good colour. Add about a quarter or half a pint -of white wine or broth, and before they have finished cooking add some -pepper and grated nutmeg. When the liquid is reduced, serve at once.</p> - -<p>The onions can also be put into the oven, sprinkled with Parmesan -cheese and melted butter, and browned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Onions ‘in Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel two pounds of onions and, after putting them into cold water, -place them in a sauce-pan and cover them with good broth, letting them -cook slowly. If young, one hour will suffice, if old, allow two hours. -When soft, strain, and put them on a dish. Melt two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, add a spoonful of flour, and three-quarters of a -pint of broth, mixing well until it boils, then add a little salt and -pepper, and pour it over the onions. Serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Parsnips ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>If the parsnips are young and tender they must be put into cold water -immediately after being scraped, to keep them white. If old they must -be peeled and cut lengthwise into four pieces. Boil young parsnips -three-quarters of an hour, old ones one and a quarter hours. Then -drain, arrange on a hot dish, and pour a sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over them -(see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Parsnips ‘al Forno.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and peel six large parsnips, cut them in two and put them into a -sauce-pan with enough boiling water to cover them, for one hour. Then -drain, and place them on a hot dish. Meantime melt two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan with three or four tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir -to prevent browning. Add half a pint of hot water and boil for five -minutes, stirring constantly. Add salt and pepper to taste, pour the -sauce over the parsnips, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs and grated -cheese, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a slow oven.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Parsnips ‘Fritte.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the parsnips till tender; drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, -dip them into butter, then into flour, and then sprinkle with sugar. -Melt two or three tablespoonfuls of dripping in a frying-pan, put in -the parsnips, and fry until browned on both sides.</p> - - -<h3><i>Parsnips ‘Sautés.’</i></h3> - -<p>Mash six or seven parsnips, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and stir in -one tablespoonful of flour and one egg. Make them up into small round -cakes and fry in dripping, turning occasionally, until browned on both -sides.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘all’ Antica.’</i></h3> - -<p>Shell carefully three quarts of young peas and wrap them in a wet cloth -until wanted. Wash and tie up a lettuce head, and put it with the peas -into a sauce-pan, adding one tumbler of water, a quarter of a pound -of fresh butter, and a pinch of salt. Cook for a quarter of an hour, -take out the lettuce, and before serving put in three tablespoonfuls of -cream, mixed with the yolk of one egg, a spoonful of powdered sugar, -and half a saltspoonful of white pepper. Boil for five minutes and -serve hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘alla Borghese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put one quart of young shelled peas into a sauce-pan with a little -browned onion, one or two slices of ham chopped up fine, one ounce of -fresh butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a sprinkling of flour. Add -a large ladleful of good stock and cook slowly. When done, mix in a -cupful of milk, a little powdered sugar, and thicken with two yolks of -eggs. Serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put one quart of shelled peas into a sauce-pan with a little cold water -and four ounces of fresh butter. Place them on a hot fire, add a cupful -of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste, a spoonful of sugar, and -a bunch of parsley. When reduced take out the parsley, add one or two -ounces of fresh butter, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘alla Consommé.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one and a half quarts of peas, and two carrots cut into small -square pieces, in good broth, with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, -for about an hour. Just before serving put the peas on to croûtons -(fried bread) fried in fresh butter.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cook one pint of shelled peas in an earthen pot of salted boiling water -for a quarter of an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span> hour, then drain. Put two ounces of fresh butter -into a sauce-pan with one tablespoonful of flour, then add half a pint -of milk and mix until it boils. Add salt and pepper to taste, and then -put in the peas. Cook in a Bain-marie for a quarter of an hour, and -serve as a garnish to any baked meat.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘alla Francese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Take two young onions, cut them in half lengthwise, tie them up with a -bunch of parsley leaves, and put them into a sauce-pan with one ounce -of butter. When browned, pour a large cupful of broth over them and -boil. As soon as the onions are quite soft rub them through a sieve -together with the broth, and put them into a sauce-pan with one quart -of peas and two heads of lettuce. Season with salt and pepper to taste, -and boil slowly. When half done add one ounce more of butter mixed with -a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little more broth, if needed. Before -serving take out the lettuce and thicken with two yolks of eggs mixed -in a little broth.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘alla Francese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut two young onions into fine slices, and put them in a sauce-pan with -one ounce of butter. When browned, mix in a sprinkling of flour, pour -in one or two cupfuls of broth<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> and let the flour cook. Put in one -quart of young peas, season with salt and pepper, and when half-cooked -add two heads of lettuce. Boil slowly, taking care that the gravy does -not get too thick, and before serving take out the lettuce. Sugar can -be added, but only in small quantities.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘al Buon Gusto.’</i></h3> - -<p>Make a cross cut in an onion and put it into a sauce-pan with one ounce -of butter; when browned, take it out and add a little flour to the -butter. Mix and put in one quart of boiled peas, sprinkling them with -salt and allspice. As soon as they have taken up the butter pour in a -cupful of stock to finish the cooking, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘all’ Inglese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil the peas in salted water with a bunch of parsley, drain when done. -Just before serving turn them into the dish adding a few slices of -fresh butter.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pea Omelette.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one quart of shelled peas in salted water for fifteen minutes, -then strain and keep them hot while preparing the omelette. Beat up -four eggs, and add four tablespoonfuls of hot water, three-quarters of -an ounce of fresh<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span> butter, and three or four drops of onion juice. Then -put four ounces of butter into a frying-pan, brown it well and put in -the eggs. Stir over a brisk fire till the eggs have set, then tilt the -pan so that the butter passes under the omelette, and sprinkle with -salt and pepper. Put two spoonfuls of the boiled peas into the middle -of the omelette, turn one half of it over the peas, and put it on a -very hot dish. Add a spoonful of Butter sauce to the rest of the peas -and put them round the omelette. Serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pease-pudding.</i></h3> - -<p>Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a sauce-pan, when browned put in one -quart of shelled peas, add salt to taste, and mix for three minutes. -Then moisten with strong stock (for <i lang="it" xml:lang="it">maigre</i> use fish soup) and -add a little cinnamon and allspice. When the peas are soft to the -touch rub them through a sieve. Meanwhile cook two ounces of butter in -a sauce-pan, put in the purée of peas, stir, and add a tablespoonful -of flour, and then (stirring all the time) two pounded maccaroons, -and three yolks of eggs. Take the peas off the fire and let them cool -before mixing lightly with them three whites of eggs well beaten up. -Butter a shape, put in the peas, and cook in a Bain-marie with fire -above and below.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Peas in their Pods.</i></h3> - -<p>Take two pounds of very young peas in their pods and boil them in an -earthen pot in salted boiling water for about half an hour. When cooked -put them into a hot dish and pour sauce ‘Alla Panna’ over them (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>), or melted butter, salt, and pepper. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘allo Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one and a half or two pounds of shelled peas, and put them into a -sauce-pan with some ham, two ounces of butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, -and a little fried onion. Simmer gently till they are done, then blend -with the yolks of two or three eggs. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Peas ‘allo Zucchero.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one pound of shelled peas, put them into a sauce-pan with two -ounces of butter, one tumbler of water, one ounce of sugar, and a -sprinkling of salt. Cook them over a sharp fire for a quarter of an -hour; when tender, take them off the fire and add the yolks of four -eggs well beaten up with half a tumbler of cream. Put them on the fire -again and stir continually to prevent them from boiling. As soon as the -eggs are set serve at once.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Polenta ‘Dabs.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scald one pint of Indian corn flour in boiling water. Mix together -one dessert-spoonful of butter, two lightly beaten-up eggs, one -wine-glassful of cream and a little salt, add this to the corn flour, -and drop the paste from a spoon into a well-buttered pan. Bake in a -moderate oven.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[17]</a> This is an American recipe.</p> - -</div> - - -<h3><i>Polenta ‘alla Parmigiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Stir one pound of Indian corn flour, a little at a time, into one -pint of boiling salted water until smooth, then turn out into a dish -to cool, in a layer about half an inch thick. When quite cold, cut -into pieces of one inch long, and pile in layers in a baking-dish, -sprinkling each layer well with grated Parmesan cheese and some melted -butter. Bake in a slow oven and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Polenta with Sausages.</i></h3> - -<p>Make a polenta as above (alla Parmigiana) and while cooling boil two -or three sausages in an earthen pot with very little water. When done, -skin them, break them into small pieces, and add a little stock and -tomato conserve. Lay the polenta in a baking dish, putting some sausage -and grated Parmesan cheese between<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> each layer with some bits of -butter here and there. Then cook with fire above and below, or in the -oven, and serve very hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes Boiled.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the potatoes well and peel off a piece of skin round each potato -about half an inch wide to make them mealy. Put them in a sauce-pan, -and cover them with cold water; add half a handful of salt, cover the -sauce-pan, boil for forty-five minutes. Drain them well, place them in -a napkin on a hot dish, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Borghese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two pounds of potatoes, and put them in a covered dish to drain. -When dry, peel and cut them into slices, then put them into a sauce-pan -with four ounces of butter, some chopped parsley, and salt and pepper -to taste. Let them simmer over a slow fire, then squeeze the juice of -two lemons over them and serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Campagnuola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two pounds of potatoes, peel, slice fine, and brown them slightly -in a frying-pan with four ounces of butter. Toss them now and then, -adding a little salt and grated nutmeg, and mix Béchamel sauce with -them before serving hot (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘in Casseruola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Mix one pound of mashed potatoes, the yolks of four eggs, half a pint -of cream, and two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. Cook until hot, stir -constantly until the paste is flaky and light, sprinkle with salt and -pepper. Arrange the paste in a circle round a dish and set it in the -oven to colour. Then fill the circle with a fricassee of chicken or -rabbit, or any kind of stew, mushrooms, or any cooked vegetables (peas, -French beans, etc.) left over from the day before, or half a bottle of -tomato conserve, or the pulp of six or seven fresh tomatoes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil six or eight potatoes, and cut them into small pieces. Put -four ounces of butter, a little flour, salt, pepper, half an onion, -some parsley chopped up fine, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, into a -sauce-pan. Mix well until it boils, then add a tumbler of cream. Stir -constantly over a slow fire until it boils, and then add the potatoes. -Stand the sauce-pan by the fire for a few minutes, and serve up very -hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Croquettes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water, when cool pound in a -mortar, and mix with two or three eggs, and various sweet herbs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> -chopped up (parsley, thyme, marjoram, chervil, etc.). Moisten with half -a cup of cream and stir into a thick paste. Roll this into croquettes -and fry in fresh butter. When they have taken a good colour serve up -hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Croquettes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Put one pound of mashed potatoes, the beaten-up yolks of two eggs, a -little onion juice, grated nutmeg, salt, two tablespoonfuls of cream, -a pinch of cinnamon, one dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, and two -ounces of butter, into a sauce-pan over a moderate fire. Cook until it -comes away from the sides, then remove it from the fire. When cold it -will break up into small pieces. Meanwhile beat up an egg with a little -hot water, dip the pieces of potato into it, and then into grated -bread-crumbs. Fry in boiling fat and serve hot with fried parsley.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato ‘Farcite.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and peel six or seven large potatoes, cut them in two lengthwise, -scoop out the centres (leaving just enough of the potato to support -the skin), and fill with forcemeat made of fresh pork minced, salt and -pepper to taste, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little powdered thyme. -Arrange the potatoes in a well-buttered baking-dish, and cook for half -an hour in a slow oven until well browned.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Mash six or seven boiled potatoes and beat them up while hot with three -tablespoonfuls of cream, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one raw egg, and -salt to taste. Put a layer into a well-buttered baking-dish, then put a -layer of thin slices of yolk of hard-boiled eggs, sprinkled with salt -and pepper; put layers of potatoes and eggs until the dish is full. -The top layer must be potato, over which strew bread-crumbs thickly. -Cover the dish and bake until hot, then brown quickly, and serve in the -baking-dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Roast six large potatoes in the oven with their skins on, cut them in -two, remove the inside with a spoon, but take care to leave enough -substance to preserve the shape of the potato. Put the inside of the -potato in a dish and add two ounces of butter, half a pint of hot milk, -salt and pepper to taste. Mix together until the paste is light, and -then add the well-beaten whites of two eggs, and beat up the whole -well. Fill the potato skins with the paste, first rolling it in the -yolk of egg, then cook in the oven and serve as soon as the top is well -coloured.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘in Frittata’ (Omelette).</i></h3> - -<p>Mince up two boiled, cold, potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and -put them into a frying-pan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span> in which two ounces of butter have been -melted. Spread the potatoes one-third of an inch deep in the pan, and -cook slowly over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hour. Then -turn over (as you would any other omelette), and cook the other side. -Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Semplicità.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil and peel eight large potatoes, and pound them in a mortar with -two spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little powdered cinnamon, and some -salt. When fairly thick and consistent, make up the paste into fritters -and fry in butter, turning them continually until they are a rich brown -colour. If a richer dish is desired, add four eggs and two ounces of -butter to the potato paste.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘Fritti alla Francese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash thoroughly six large peeled potatoes, then cut them into small -balls, and put them in boiling water to cook for five or six minutes. -Drain, then fry them, a few at a time, in good roast-meat dripping -until they are of a golden colour. When cooked, drain them, sprinkle -with salt, and serve as a garnish to fish or meat.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘in Frittura.’</i></h3> - -<p>Pound four or six cold, boiled potatoes in a mortar with two -tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> little powdered cinnamon, and -some salt. When the paste is well mixed and smooth, make it up into -small round cakes and put them into fried fresh butter, turning them -until they take a good yellow colour. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato ‘Gnocchi.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil eight or ten potatoes for a few minutes, then peel; place -them in the oven until they are quite soft, then pound them in a -mortar with three-quarters of an ounce of grated cheese, five or six -dessert-spoonfuls of flour, salt to taste, and three eggs. Knead well -and make little rolls, cover them with flour, and put them into a large -sauce-pan with salted boiling water. Boil for five or six minutes, then -take them carefully out, and place them on a dish, sprinkle them with -cheese, and pour some browned melted fresh butter over them with a -taste of onion in it (if liked).</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘all’ Italiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash eight potatoes thoroughly, peel off a strip of skin round each -(to make them mealy), put them in a sauce-pan and cover them with cold -salted water, put on the lid and boil for forty-five minutes. Then peel -and mash them, put them in a sauce-pan, add one ounce of butter and a -piece of fresh crumb of bread<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> (about the size of a roll) which has -been soaked in milk. Put in two tablespoonfuls of milk, three yolks -of fresh eggs with their whites beaten to a froth, salt and pepper to -taste, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix well together and pile it high -in a baking-dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and sprinkle a -little Parmesan cheese, then put it in the oven for about ten minutes. -Serve as soon as it is of a good golden colour.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Gran Duchessa.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take one pound of mashed potatoes, add two ounces of butter, and salt -to taste, one tablespoonful of powdered white sugar, and work up into -a light paste, adding two well-beaten eggs. Make the paste into oval -balls, roll them in melted fresh butter, and place them in the oven on -greased paper until well cooked. They make a nice garnish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Lionese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two large potatoes, and when cold cut them into slices. Melt two -ounces of butter in a frying-pan, add a sliced onion, and stir till -well browned. Put in the potatoes and simmer gently until they are -coloured, then sprinkle with a little salt. Place them on a hot dish -and serve very hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Maître d’Hôtel.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil four large potatoes and cut them into dice. Put them into a -sauce-pan, add about one pint of stock, and cook slowly for a quarter -of an hour, sprinkling with salt and pepper to taste, and then -place them on a hot dish. Meanwhile fry two ounces of butter, one -tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and the juice of one lemon, when -done, pour over the potatoes and serve immediately.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘all’ Olandese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel six large, cold, boiled potatoes, cut them into dice, and throw -them into boiling water for five minutes. After draining, place them in -a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter on a moderate fire, or in a slow -oven, and shake them occasionally, until the potatoes have absorbed the -butter and are soft. Serve on a hot dish with sauce ‘Olandese’ (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_124">124</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil eight or ten large potatoes, and cut them up when cold into -small dice. Melt four ounces of butter in an earthen dish with one -tablespoonful of flour, then mix in one pint of fresh cream (or milk), -a little salt and pepper, and a small pinch of nutmeg. Stir well -together until<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span> it boils, then put in the potatoes, add some grated -bread-crumbs and bits of fresh butter, and cook over a brisk fire until -they have turned a good yellow colour. Serve up hot in the earthen dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Pudding.</i></h3> - -<p>Mash twelve large boiled potatoes in a sauce-pan with four ounces of -butter, two tumblers of cream, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of -flour. Then rub through a sieve, adding four ounces of white powdered -sugar, a little cinnamon, the yolks of four eggs, with their whites -beaten to a froth. Mix well, put into a well-buttered mould thickly -sprinkled with bread-crumbs, and bake for three-quarters of an hour -until browned.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Pudding with Mushrooms (Budino con Prugnuoli).</i></h3> - -<p>Peel eight or more potatoes, cut them into quarters, wash, and boil -them in salted water with half a lemon; take them off the fire before -they are over-cooked. Then strain through a sieve, put them into a -large dish, and mash them well with a wooden spoon. Add two ounces of -fresh butter, and pour in half a tumbler of cream (a little at a time). -Beat up well with the spoon until the paste is smooth,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span> then add three -or four well-beaten-up yolks of eggs. Butter a mould and pour in the -potato paste, make a hole in the centre, put small whole mushrooms into -it, cover them with a piece of the paste, and cook in the oven. When -baked, turn out the pudding on to a dish and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘in Ragoût.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut six fine potatoes into dice, and put them into boiling water with -six sliced leeks. Boil for ten minutes, then drain. Boil half a bunch -of asparagus, drain, cut off their heads, and add them to the potatoes -and leeks, mixing well together. Meanwhile put two ounces of butter, -one pint of milk, one tablespoonful of chopped chervil, pepper and -salt to taste, into a sauce-pan, mix slowly over the fire until hot, -then pour over the potatoes, leeks, and asparagus, and boil the whole -together. Serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘Arrostite’ (Roasted).</i></h3> - -<p>Choose two pounds of young, round, and equal-sized potatoes. Put them -into a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, salt to taste, and cover -hermetically. Place over a slow fire and shake frequently. After -three-quarters of an hour the potatoes will have a brown crust, and -inside they will be white and tender.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘Sautées.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut three or four cold, boiled potatoes into dice, and put them, a -few at a time, so that they shall not overlap one another, into a -frying-pan with fresh butter. (Allow one tablespoonful of butter for -each potato.) Brown them well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve -immediately.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘in Stufato.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut ten large potatoes into dice and put them into cold water for a -quarter of an hour. Drain, and cook in boiling water for about ten -minutes, then dry in a cloth and put them into a sauce-pan; sprinkle -them with flour, add one pint of milk and two ounces of butter. Cover -tightly and let them simmer slowly for ten or fifteen minutes. Sprinkle -with salt and pepper, and serve up very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘Tartufate.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut three or four parboiled potatoes into thin slices and lay them one -by one, with thin slices of truffles mixed with grated Parmesan cheese, -in an earthen dish. Add two ounces of butter in bits, salt and pepper -to taste, and when the potatoes begin to cook moisten with broth or -gravy. Before serving, squeeze a little lemon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> juice over them, and -serve hot in the earthen dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potatoes ‘all’ Umido.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil five or six large potatoes, let them get cold, and then cut them -into dice. Put them into a baking-dish with two ounces of butter and -enough cream to cover them. Cook until nicely browned, and serve very -hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkins ‘alla Fiorentina.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take twelve very young pumpkins (about one and a half inches long), cut -them in half, and put them in cold water. Have a sauce-pan ready with -four quarts of salted water. When boiling put in the pumpkins. When -they are cooked put them again into cold water. Just before serving -place them in a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, heat for three -minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of veal broth, two of cream, and a -squeeze of lemon. Heat again and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkins ‘Fritti.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take young pumpkins (about the size of your two fists), peel them, cut -them in half, and take out seeds and pulp. Cut them into thin strips -(one and a half or two inches long,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span> and as wide as your finger), -and put them into a dish with salt for some hours. Then squeeze out -the water with your hands, and throw them into flour, taking care to -separate and cover each strip with flour, shake the superfluous flour -off them in a sieve, and put them into a frying-pan with plenty of -boiling lard or oil. Serve at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkin Pudding (Bodino).</i></h3> - -<p>Cook (but not too much) two and a half pounds of pumpkin with two -ounces of butter, a little pepper, allspice, and salt, and pass -through a sieve, adding some crumb of bread soaked in milk or cream, -some powdered cinnamon, several pounded bitter almonds, a handful of -grated bread, and three yolks of eggs. Mix thoroughly and put it into a -well-buttered shape with thin slices of buttered bread arranged round -the inside, and cook with a fire above and below until thoroughly -browned. Serve up hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkins ‘Ripiene.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut six young and small pumpkins (about two and a half inches long) -in two, and take out the pulp. Meanwhile mince fine the breast of a -fowl (or any tender white meat you have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span> over from the day before), -one slice of tongue, and one of ham; put them into a sauce-pan with -three tablespoonfuls of veal broth, the yolk of an egg, a pinch of -salt, and one of pepper; parboil; therewith fill the pumpkins. Butter -a sauté-pan, lay the stuffed pumpkins in, and cook with fire above and -below, occasionally adding some broth. Serve as soon as cooked.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkins ‘Ripiene’ (maigre). <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Take young pumpkins (about the size of your fist), scoop out their -insides, and fill them with minced tunny fish preserved in oil, yolk -of egg, a pinch of Parmesan cheese, a little of the soft pulp of the -pumpkin, and a little allspice and pepper, but no salt. Cook the -pumpkins in butter, and when brown serve with Tomato sauce (see Sauces, -<abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>).</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Rice (How to cook).</i></h3> - -<p>Place a large sauce-pan with water on a hot fire; it is necessary that -the water should boil violently in order to keep the grains of rice -separate. Wash the rice in several waters so as to remove the floury -coating, which makes it pasty. Drain, and drop it gradually into the -sauce-pan, so as not to stop the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span> boiling. Then boil hard for a quarter -of an hour or twenty minutes. When the rice is soft to the touch, it is -done. Then drain off every drop of water, sprinkle with salt, cover the -sauce-pan with a thin napkin, and leave it by the fire to steam and get -dry. (The rice can also be put into a cullender to drain, and then into -an open oven to dry; or butter the interior of a stew-pan, put in the -rice, put on the lid tight, and stand the pan on a trivet in the oven, -or by the fire.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice ‘alla Casalinga.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash eight ounces of rice, and blanch it in a sauce-pan with two quarts -of water for five minutes, then strain and let it cool. Meanwhile fry -four ounces of lean bacon cut up into small pieces, and when browned, -add one and a half pints of stock and a small teaspoonful of white -pepper. Put in the rice, cook for twenty minutes, stirring every now -and then, take it off the fire, add half a tumbler of Tomato sauce (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>), or conserve, and mix well. Turn out the rice on to a -hot dish, and garnish with small sausages.</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice Croquettes.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a cupful of rice in weak chicken broth, drain, stir in two -beaten-up eggs, one teaspoonful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> of butter, a slight sprinkling of -flour, pepper, and a pinch of grated lemon-peel. Flour your hands, and -make the rice, when cold, into small sausages (or croquettes), roll -each in raw egg, and then in bread crumbs, and fry to a golden brown.</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice with Tomatoes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one cupful of rice soft in hot water, shake it now and then, but -do not stir it. Drain, and add a little milk in which a beaten egg has -been mixed, one teaspoonful of butter, and a little pepper and salt. -Simmer for five minutes, and if the rice has not absorbed all the milk, -drain it again. Put the rice round a dish, smooth it into a wall, wash -it over with the yolk of a beaten-up egg, and put it into the oven till -firm. Take half a bottle of tomato conserve (or the strained juice -and pulp of seven or eight tomatoes), season with pepper, a little -salt, sugar, and half a chopped onion, stew for twenty minutes, then -stir in one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of fine -bread-crumbs. Stew three or four minutes to thicken, and then pour the -tomato into the dish in the middle of the rice, and serve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Rice with Tomatoes. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one cupful of rice as directed in ‘How to boil Rice’; add half a -cupful of Tomato sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>), season with some butter, -salt, and pepper to taste, and one or two bay leaves. Toss, or mix -lightly with a fork, being careful not to mash the grains. Serve hot. -This makes a nice dish for winter.</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice with Prawns.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince up half an onion, one clove of garlic, one carrot, half a head -of celery, and a bunch of parsley, and brown in pure olive oil. Then -put six or seven ounces of prawns into the sauce-pan, and season with -salt and pepper. Turn them often, and when all are red put in two or -three tablespoonfuls of Tomato sauce (or conserve), and add enough hot -water to cook fourteen or fifteen ounces of rice in afterwards. Do not -boil too much, as prawns cook fast. Take the prawns out, dry them, -choose about a third of the finest, shell and lay them aside. Pound -the others in a mortar (shells and all), rub them through a sieve, and -mix again with the water in which they were cooked. Meanwhile put some -butter into a sauce-pan, add the rice, stir well, and as soon as it -has taken up the butter, pour the water little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span> by little on to it. -When half-boiled add the shelled prawns, and before serving sprinkle -Parmesan cheese over the whole.</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice with Quails.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince up two or four slices of ham and a quarter of an onion, and -brown in a sauce-pan, then put in four quails ready drawn. Sprinkle -with pepper and salt, and as soon as they are browned, parboil them in -broth, then add fourteen ounces of rice, and boil all together. Powder -with grated Parmesan cheese and serve on a hot dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Rice ‘alla Ristori.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut two ounces of bacon into small pieces, and put them into a -sauce-pan with chopped-up cabbage. Steam for half an hour and add a -little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; then throw in a quarter of -a pound of rice and half a pint of veal broth. Cook for fifteen or -eighteen minutes, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese sprinkled over -it.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Melt two ounces of good fresh butter in a sauce-pan over a sharp fire, -add one onion chopped fine, brown a deep golden colour, then add about -ten ounces of clean rice (Italian if possible) and two large truffles -chopped up. Stir<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span> without stopping for one and a half minutes, and add -one quart of boiling veal broth, stir and let it cook for fourteen -minutes. Add six chopped-up mushrooms, and, a little at a time, one -more quart of broth, stirring constantly over a sharp fire for ten -minutes more. Put in half a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, one -and a half ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a teaspoonful of -saffron soaked in two tablespoonfuls of hot broth, and strained. Cook -three or four minutes longer, stirring all the time, then pour into a -deep dish, and serve hot with some grated Parmesan cheese separate. It -is an improvement to put a tablespoonful of marrow into the centre just -before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up an onion and cook it with one and a half ounces of beef marrow, -and the same quantity of good butter; when browned put in one pound of -rice and add three-quarters of a glass of good white wine and broth -enough to cook the rice. Before taking off the fire add one and a half -ounces of butter and some grated Parmesan cheese, and serve with more -grated cheese separately.</p> - - -<h3><i>Risotto with Peas.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince up one small onion, brown it in two ounces of butter, then put in -one pound of rice,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span> and stir with a ladle until the rice has taken up -all the butter. Add hot water (a cupful at a time), sprinkle with salt, -and let it boil dry, adding two ounces of butter. Before taking it off -the fire add peas cooked ‘<a href="#borghese">alla Borghese</a>’ omitting the milk and eggs. -Mix, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Risotto ‘alla Poggio Gherardo.’</i></h3> - -<p>Mince an onion, put it into a three-quart sauce-pan, and brown with -three ounces of good butter. Take out the onion, put in one pound of -rice, and half a wineglassful of Marsala. Reduce over a brisk fire, -then add one quart of stock, and boil hard so as to reduce in eighteen -minutes. Then take it off the fire and season with one ounce of good -butter, one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, three or four fowls’ -livers and mushrooms minced up fine, and some good gravy. Serve hot.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h2>SALADS.</h2> - -<h3><i>Artichoke Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil some small and tender artichokes and leave them to cool. Just -before serving drop into the middle of each, one drop of onion juice, -lay them on lettuce leaves, and pour sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> -<a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over them.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Beetroot Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Slice two or three cold, boiled beetroots and place them in a -salad-bowl. Pour half a pint of sauce Tartara (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>) over -them and serve up with a garnish of parsley leaves.</p> - - -<h3><i>Broccoli Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one or two heads of broccoli in salted water, then strain them and -dry with a cloth. Make a sauce of pure olive oil, white wine vinegar, -very little salt and pepper, one tablespoonful of capers, and two or -three anchovies chopped up with some parsley. Pour over the broccoli -when cold and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cabbage Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the heart of a white cabbage and half a head of celery into shreds. -Boil half a teacup of vinegar with one tablespoonful of butter, add -one tablespoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, and put in the -cabbage, but do not let it boil. Meanwhile beat up two eggs, mix them -in one cupful of hot milk, and boil to a custard. Then put the cabbage -into a salad-bowl, pour the custard over it, and mix well. Place in the -ice-box until wanted.</p> - - -<h3><i>‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and dry well two lettuces and a bunch of water-cresses, cut two -large cold, boiled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span> beetroots into strips, add twelve radishes, six -hard-boiled eggs chopped up, and one sliced cucumber. Arrange the -lettuce leaves round a salad-bowl, mix all the rest with half a pint of -sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cauliflower Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a large cauliflower, then put it in cold water; when quite cold, -break it into pieces, and put these to dry on a napkin before placing -in the salad-bowl. Add two shalots and some parsley chopped up, salt -and pepper to taste, and pour half a pint of sauce Mayonnaise (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over it before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Celery Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the white stalks into small pieces and add half a pint of sauce -Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) to every pound of celery. Sprinkle with -salt and pepper, mix well with the sauce, and serve the dish trimmed -with the green leaves of the celery.</p> - - -<h3><i>Cucumber and Tomato Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and slice two cucumbers, dry them on a napkin, then peel and slice -two large tomatoes. Cover the bottom of the salad-bowl with lettuce -leaves, and then alternate layers of the cucumbers and tomatoes, pour -sauce ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over and serve.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash the curly inside leaves of two heads of endive, dry them well, put -them into a salad-bowl, pour three tablespoonfuls of good olive oil -over them, and add a finely chopped shalot. Mix one tablespoonful of -honey (or sugar), one of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste, in a -cup, and pour over the salad just before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>French Beans Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil one pound of French beans until tender, drain, and put them in -cold water. Dry them on a napkin, and cut them lengthwise into four -pieces. Pour sauce ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over them just -before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>‘All’ Italiana’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut one carrot and one turnip into slices and cook them in boiling -soup. When cold mix them with two large cold, boiled potatoes, and one -beetroot cut into strips. Add a very little chopped leeks, or onion, -pour some sauce ‘Lombarda’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over the salad, and -garnish with water-cress.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Use only the tender leaves, and let them stand in cold water until -wanted. Wipe them quite<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span> dry, then break with the fingers into the -following sauce: Two or three yolks of hard-boiled eggs beaten up with -one tablespoonful of pure olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, two more -tablespoonfuls of oil added gradually, and one of white wine vinegar, -and one teaspoonful of mustard. Mix well and garnish the salad-bowl -with nasturtium (Tropæolum) flowers.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce Salad ‘alla Francese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put the tender leaves of lettuce into cold water till wanted; then wipe -them dry and stand them in circles in the salad-bowl. Sprinkle them -with half a teaspoonful of chopped taragon, the same of chervil, of -parsley and of chives, and pour the following sauce over them: mix in a -cup one tablespoonful of pure olive oil, one saltspoonful of salt, and -half a saltspoonful of pepper, stir well; add two more tablespoonfuls -of oil, and one of vinegar (if liked add two drops of onion juice). The -salad must not be mixed till wanted, and can be garnished with small -radishes or nasturtium flowers.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce Salad with Veal (or Fish).</i></h3> - -<p>Slice up a head of lettuce and chop up two boiled eggs in large pieces, -add half a pound of cold veal (or fish), cut into strips one inch long, -and mix in a salad-bowl. Then beat up the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span> yolks of two raw eggs, -add a very little salt, and mix in gradually four tablespoonfuls of -pure olive oil, and one of white wine vinegar; a few drops of taragon -vinegar is an improvement.</p> - - -<h3><i>‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut into small pieces one cold boiled beetroot and half an onion, add -some cold boiled French beans, two ounces of cold boiled asparagus -heads, two tablespoonfuls of cold cooked peas, one cold boiled carrot, -and one head of celery. Mix them well together, pour sauce Mayonnaise -(see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over them, add the juice of a lemon, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Chop up six lettuce leaves, and three stalks of celery; cut the remains -of a cold boiled fowl into small pieces and mix with one tablespoonful -of white wine vinegar and salt and pepper to taste, in a salad-bowl. -Pour a cupful of sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over; and -garnish with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of capers, -twelve stoned olives, and some small tender lettuce leaves.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil six potatoes; peel, slice them fine, mix with one or two small -onions cut into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span> quarters, and half a tumbler of red wine; add salt -and pepper to taste, four or five tablespoonfuls of oil, and half a -tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, one tablespoonful of chervil -chopped fine, and some thin slices of anchovies, or, if preferred, -smoked herring. Stir well, but before serving take out the onions.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil some fine potatoes, peel and slice them. Slice some truffles -(boiled in white wine) very thin and put them in alternate layers with -potatoes into a salad-bowl. Season with four or five tablespoonfuls of -good olive oil, one dessert-spoonful of white wine vinegar, and salt -and pepper to taste. Garnish with slices of anchovies, stoned olives, -and (if liked) a few young chives.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Slice some boiled (or baked) potatoes thin, add one teaspoonful of -chopped parsley; mix apart six tablespoonfuls of good olive oil, two -of white wine vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful -of pepper, and pour over the potatoes. Add six or more (according to -taste) boned anchovies cut into strips, and twelve stoned olives. Thin -slices of cold beef or fowl can be mixed in this salad with advantage.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil six fine potatoes, slice them and place them to cool. Slice three -hard-boiled eggs, and mince four ounces of pickled tunny-fish fine. -Place alternate layers of minced tunny, and sliced potato and egg, -in the salad-bowl, sprinkle the last layer with chopped chervil, and -season the dish with pure olive oil, white wine vinegar, pepper and a -very little salt, mixed separately and poured over before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>‘Alla Russa’ Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut up two boiled carrots, one small turnip, half a bunch of asparagus -(the green part) one small beetroot, and some cold chicken or -partridge, into dice, take some cold boiled young French beans, and -green peas, one tablespoonful of capers, some stoned olives, slices -of anchovies, and some prawns. Make a sauce of pure olive oil (a good -deal), a little vinegar, pepper, half a pinch cayenne, some mustard, a -spoonful of caviare, and one finely chopped shalot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spanish Onion Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and slice two large Spanish onions and two cucumbers. Put them -into iced water for twenty minutes, then drain, and dry them well on a -cloth. Arrange the slices of onion and cucumber alternately on a dish, -pour sauce<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span> ‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>), over them and serve.</p> - -<p><i>N.B.</i>—Cucumbers should if possible always be kept on ice, and -never be put into salted water.</p> - - -<h3><i>Summer Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Take three heads of fresh lettuce, one of celery, a little chopped -taragon and chervil, and one or two shalots. Season with five -tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil, two of white wine vinegar, one -teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Stir well before -serving. Cold, boiled haricot beans are a good addition, and also half -a pound of cold meat cut in very thin slices.</p> - - -<h3><i>Summer Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Take two large cucumbers, and one head of celery, peel and slice; add a -bunch of red radishes. Add six cold, boiled young artichokes cut into -quarters. Sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, mix, and pour sauce -‘alla Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) over just before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> and peel ripe tomatoes and put them in ice. Cut them into thin -slices and put on a flat dish. In the centre of each slice put one -teaspoonful of sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span> <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>), and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Or the tomato -can be cut in two, laid on a young lettuce leaf, and sauce Mayonnaise -poured over them.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[18]</a> Put the tomatoes in a wire basket and plunge them into -boiling water for one minute. If left too long in the water they get -soft.</p> - -</div> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel twelve or eighteen small yellow tomatoes. Pile them on -a dish like plums, garnish with young lettuce leaves, and pour the -following sauce over them: mix well in a cup one tablespoonful of pure -olive oil, one saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, -add, stirring all the time, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and one of -vinegar, and, if the flavour is liked, add two drops of onion juice.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel round red tomatoes of equal size, and scoop out a bit of the fruit -from the stem end. Keep them on ice till wanted, then fill them high -with sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) and celery cut into shreds -of half an inch long. Place each on a young lettuce leaf on which a -little sauce Mayonnaise has been put, and arrange on a flat dish. -(Chopped hard-boiled eggs and lettuce may be used instead of celery.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel six fine tomatoes and put them in ice, cut them into -very thin slices in a salad-bowl so as to keep the juice. Season with -salt and pepper to taste, two tablespoonfuls of oil,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span> one of vinegar, -and, if liked, one small teaspoonful of chives. Mix well and serve as -cold as possible.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Salad. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 5.</i></h3> - -<p>Take round tomatoes (not too big), fill them as in <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3, but do not -let the stuffing stand out beyond the fruit. Then put small moulds, -or cups, on ice, and pour in one-eighth of an inch of clear aspic -jelly; when set, place a tomato (the filled side uppermost) into each -mould, and pour more jelly round it and over it. Ice well, turn out the -tomatoes on a dish garnished with sliced lettuce or watercress, and -serve with sauce Mayonnaise (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) separate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Jelly Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil five or six tomatoes until they are soft with one teaspoonful -of salt, one of sugar, half a teaspoonful of thyme, a saltspoonful -of pepper, one slice of onion, one bay leaf, and three cloves. Then -add enough calves’ feet jelly (or isinglass) to set the tomato juice, -strain, and pour into a mould on ice. If the jelly is in the shape of a -ring fill the centre with curled celery, mix with sauce Mayonnaise (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>), and garnish with lettuce cut into shreds; if solid put -the celery and sauce Mayonnaise round the jelly.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of).</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel twelve small round tomatoes, cut off the stem end, take -out the seeds, and put them on ice. Meanwhile chop up fine the inside -of a head of celery, mix with some sauce ‘Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> -<a href="#Page_123">123</a>), and fill the tomatoes with it. Place each tomato on a fresh -lettuce leaf, and pour a seasoning of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper -over all.</p> - - -<h3><i>Watercress Salad.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash three or four bunches of watercress and drain them, slice four or -five cold boiled potatoes very thin and mix with the following sauce: -four tablespoonfuls of oil, half a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and -black pepper to taste, one shalot minced up fine, half a pinch of -cayenne, and half a tablespoonful of sugar.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h2>SAUCES</h2> - -<h3><i>Roux for Sauces.</i></h3> - -<p>Roux is necessary to thicken and give body to sauces. Put one -tablespoonful of flour and one of butter into a sauce-pan and cook till -the flour has lost any raw taste. Then put the sauce-pan on the hob and -add the stock, or milk slowly (one cupful for every tablespoonful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span> of -butter or flour), and stir till smooth. For white sauces take care the -flour does not colour; for dark sauces let it brown, but take care it -does not burn.</p> - - -<h3><i>Agro Dolce Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Take two tablespoonfuls of sugar (brown or white), half a cupful of -currants, a quarter of a bar of grated chocolate (about four ounces), -one tablespoonful of chopped candied orange, one of lemon peel, one of -capers, and one cupful of vinegar. Mix well together and let it soak -for two hours. Pour it over the wild boar, venison, or veal, and simmer -for ten minutes. Some add one tablespoonful of pinocchi (pine seeds), -or a dozen almonds chopped up fine.</p> - - -<h3><i>Bearnese Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Take five yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and one -of pepper. Stir, and as soon as the eggs begin to consolidate take -the sauce-pan off the fire and add one ounce of butter. Then put the -sauce-pan on the fire again and stir in one ounce more butter; repeat -this twice, then add one tablespoonful of chopped tarragon, and one -teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. This sauce must be stiff and have the -consistency of Mayonnaise.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span></p> - - -<h3 id="bechamel"><i>Béchamel Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a -sauce-pan and stir for five minutes. Pour one and a half pints of -boiling milk in gradually, beating well with a whisk. Add a bouquet, -half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, a pinch of -salt, and three ounces of chopped mushrooms. Cook for a quarter of an -hour, and rub through a fine sieve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Béchamel Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Mix three tablespoonfuls of butter and three of flour to a smooth -paste, put ten peppercorns, half an onion, half a carrot sliced, a -small piece of mace, two teacupfuls of white stock, a pinch of salt -and of grated nutmeg, and a bouquet, in a stew-pan; simmer for half an -hour, stirring often, then add one teacupful of cream, boil at once, -strain and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Béchamel Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut a thick slice of veal or part of a knuckle into small cubes and -put them into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, two medium-sized -onions and two carrots sliced. Cook for ten minutes, taking care it -should not brown, then put in five ounces of flour and stir for five -minutes over the fire. Pour in three quarts of strong<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span> white stock and -one of good cream. Add three and a half ounces of minced mushrooms, one -bouquet, one saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. -Let it boil, and then stand the sauce-pan to simmer on the hob for one -and a half hours, skimming often. Strain through a sieve into a large -sauce-pan to jelly, add two wineglassfuls of cream and reduce till the -sauce clings to the spoon. Then strain again. Stir occasionally while -it is cooling, or a skin will form on the top of the sauce, in which -case it must be strained again.</p> - - -<h3><i>Béchamel Sauce (Maigre). <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4.</i></h3> - -<p>Slice three onions and one carrot, and put them into a sauce-pan with -two whole onions and seven ounces of butter. Cook for five minutes, -then add seven ounces of flour, stir, and add three quarts of milk. Put -in a bunch of parsley and half an ounce of salt. Reduce for a quarter -of an hour stirring all the time, then strain through a sieve. Cover -the sauce with a thin layer of melted butter, and it will keep some -days. When wanted boil and stir in three and a half ounces of butter -for every quart of sauce.</p> - - -<h3><i>Broccoli (Sauce for).</i></h3> - -<p>Mix one tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan with one tumbler of -water and a little salt.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span> Stir until it boils. When the flour has quite -lost its raw taste, stir in two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a -lemon, and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.</p> - - -<h3><i>Caper Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince an anchovy and dissolve it in oil and butter over a slow fire, -add four ounces of capers, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and some -chopped parsley. This sauce can be served hot or cold.</p> - - -<h3><i>Caper Sauce ‘alla Genovese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince up one small onion with two ounces of capers and three-quarters -of an ounce of anchovies. Brown them in a sauce-pan with a little -butter, then add one cupful of broth or good gravy, a little vinegar, -and a pinch of sweet herbs. Boil up twice and serve with any boiled -meat.</p> - - -<h3><i>Caper Sauce ‘alla Milanese.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Take four ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, pepper and -salt to taste, and mix well over the fire in a sauce-pan. Do not let -it boil, and just before serving add two ounces of capers and one -teaspoonful of white wine vinegar.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Cold Caper Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 4.</i></h3> - -<p>Take pure olive oil, four ounces of capers and the juice of a lemon. -Mix them well together and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Butter Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Put two ounces of flour into one quart of water, with one and a half -ounces of butter, and a little salt and pepper. Cook for twenty -minutes, stirring well, then strain into a covered bowl and put into -a Bain-marie. Just before serving boil again, take off the fire, add -twelve ounces of butter cut into pieces, and the juice of one fine -lemon. The heat of the sauce must melt the butter as it must not be put -on the fire again. If the sauce is too thick mix in half a wineglassful -of hot water.</p> - - -<h3><i>Butter Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2. (Melted Butter.)</i></h3> - -<p>Take eight ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of salt, one of pepper, -and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon over -the fire until the butter is half melted, then take it off and continue -to stir until it is quite liquid. By taking the butter off the fire -before it is all melted, it will have a pleasant taste of fresh cream; -this is lost when fully cooked.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Francese Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Stir six yolks of eggs, seventeen ounces of butter, salt and pepper -to taste, well together. When they begin to consolidate mix in one -wineglassful of purée of tomatoes passed through a fine sieve, one -ounce of chicken jelly, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one -teaspoonful of capsicum vinegar.</p> - - -<h3><i>Lombarda Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Put two tumblers of white roux and one of chicken jelly into a -sauce-pan, reduce, and add three yolks of eggs mixed with two ounces -of butter and the juice of half a lemon. Before it boils take the -sauce-pan off the fire and add one tumbler of thick Tomato sauce (see -Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_126">126</a>) (or conserve), strain, and just before serving add one -tablespoonful of sweet herbs minced fine.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mayonnaise Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Put one yolk of egg (quite free from any white), half a teaspoonful -of salt, and a pinch of cayenne, into a bowl standing in ice. Stir -constantly, and add one cupful of pure olive oil, drop by drop. The -goodness of the sauce depends upon adding the oil slowly. When it -begins to get thick, alternate a few drops of tarragon vinegar with the -oil till you have put in one and a half teaspoonfuls of vinegar (lemon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span> -juice may be used instead). In summer it is a good plan to mix the yolk -of a hard-boiled egg with the raw one; the sauce is made more quickly -and is less likely to curdle.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mayonnaise Monte Bianco Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>To the above Mayonnaise sauce add half a cupful of stiff whipped cream -just before serving.</p> - - -<h3><i>Mayonnaise Sauce ‘alla Ravigote.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take a few sprigs of tarragon, parsley, chervil, watercress, two or -three chives, and a leaf of spinach or lettuce, and pound them in a -mortar with some drops of lemon juice. Squeeze out the juice of the -herbs, and mix it with mayonnaise sauce (as above). A few green peas -will add to the colour and consistency of the sauce.</p> - - -<h3><i>Olandese Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Rub four ounces of butter to a cream in a sauce-pan or a bowl, add four -yolks of eggs, beat well together, then put in half a teaspoonful of -salt, the juice of half a lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and one cupful of -hot water poured in by degrees. Mix well and put into a Bain-marie. -Stir until the sauce becomes of the consistency of thick cream, but -be careful it does not boil. Take it off the fire and stir for some -minutes. ‘Olandese’ sauce ought to be quite smooth and creamy.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>‘Alla Panna’ Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Melt half a pound of butter, add a little flour, salt, pepper, and -grated nutmeg. Stir until thick, then add one pint of cream, a little -chopped parsley, and heat for five minutes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Suprema Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Put four quarts of good stock into a sauce-pan with two pounds of -knuckle of veal and the body of a fowl. Boil well, skimming off the -grease, add one teaspoonful of salt, two onions (one of them stuck with -cloves), one bouquet, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Simmer on the hob -until the veal is quite cooked, then strain. Add three tablespoonfuls -of white roux and stir over the fire until it boils. Skim, and put it -into a Bain-marie to reduce. Just before serving boil it again and add -one ounce of butter and three tablespoonfuls of milk of sweet almonds.</p> - - -<h3><i>Suprema Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Put the body of a fowl into a sauce-pan, cover it with water, and cook -quickly. Take it out as soon as it boils, drain, and wash it well. Then -put the fowl into a clean sauce-pan, with one quart of veal broth, one -dessert-spoonful of salt, and a bouquet. Cook for forty-five minutes, -then pour the broth through a strainer into another sauce-pan with two -tablespoonfuls of white roux, and stir well.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Tartara Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Take one shallot, one tablespoonful of capers, six sprigs of tarragon, -six of chervil, and two gherkins; chop all up very fine and put them -into an earthen bowl with two raw yolks of eggs, half a teaspoonful of -ground mustard, a small pinch of salt, and one of pepper, then stir in -(a drop at a time) one teaspoonful of good wine vinegar, and then a -cupful of pure olive oil.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tartara Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and mince two anchovies with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. -Mince separately some parsley, tarragon, one shallot (or a small -onion). Put them into a bowl with one tablespoonful of white wine -vinegar, one and a half of olive oil, one of French mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. Beat up well with a wooden spoon till quite -smooth.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Mince a quarter of an onion, half a stalk of celery, a few leaves of -sweet basil, and a bunch of parsley, up fine. Add half a cupful of -pure olive oil, a pinch of salt and one of pepper, and cut eight or -nine tomatoes into slices. Boil until the sauce is as thick as cream, -stirring occasionally, then strain through a sieve and serve. Eight or -nine tablespoonfuls of conserve can be used instead of fresh tomatoes.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Sauce. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Take four pounds of tomatoes, cut them in two and put them into a -two-quart sauce-pan with two wineglassfuls of water, two saltspoonfuls -of salt, one of pepper, and a bouquet. Cover the sauce-pan and boil for -forty minutes, stirring often to prevent burning; then strain. Make a -roux in another sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, and three-quarters -of an ounce of flour. Cook for three minutes, mixing well. Take the -roux off the fire and pour the tomatoes into it a little at a time, -stirring to keep it smooth. Add two wineglassfuls of stock, put on the -fire, and cook for twenty minutes, stirring all the time.</p> - - -<h3><i>Vellutata Sauce.</i></h3> - -<p>Put one pound of knuckle of veal and any scraps you have of fowl into a -well-buttered sauce-pan with two or three slices of ham, two carrots, -one onion, and one tumbler of veal broth. When the broth is reduced add -twelve mushrooms, two or three shallots, salt and pepper to taste, a -bouquet, and enough veal broth to cover the meat. Boil, skim off the -fat, and let it simmer for one and a half hours. It will keep some days -if well corked in a cold place. Before using mix white roux with it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Sorrel Purée.</i></h3> - -<p>Nip the stalks off a peck of sorrel, wash well, drain, and chop up fine -with one head of well-washed lettuce and a small bunch of chervil. Put -all into a sauce-pan and stir over a hot fire for three minutes, then -place in the oven until well dissolved. Add one and a half ounces of -fresh butter, stir until it bubbles, add half a pint of good stock or -beef gravy, and cook for five minutes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Sorrel Purée (Maigre).</i></h3> - -<p>Take sorrel as above, but instead of stock or gravy, add two yolks of -eggs and half a cupful of cream.</p> - - -<h3><i>Sorrel Stewed.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash clean the necessary quantity of sorrel, boil until tender, then -rub through a sieve into a stew-pan. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of -Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>), a little salt and sugar, and two -or three ounces of fresh butter. Stew for a few minutes and serve.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h2>SOUPS.</h2> - -<h3><i>Artichoke Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three large artichokes for forty minutes, then dry and cut -them in pieces and rub through a sieve. Put one quart of milk in an -earthen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span> pot, boil, add the artichokes, two ounces of butter, and three -tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir until the milk thickens, add pepper and -salt to taste, and boil for ten minutes, adding chicken forcemeat balls -just before serving. (For the forcemeat balls take four tablespoonfuls -of minced raw fowl, some grated bread, the white of an egg beaten up, -and a little salt and pepper. Place the balls in boiling water as you -make them, and boil for ten minutes. Take them out with the strainer -and put them into the soup.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Artichoke Soup (Purée).</i></h3> - -<p>Cut the bottom out of several artichokes, blanch them, remove the -chokes and boil with a little salt, flour, and lemon juice. Then mash -them and mix with one (or more, according to the number of people) -cupful of Béchamel sauce (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>); rub through a sieve, add -enough good stock to make a thick soup, and serve with small croûtons -(fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Asparagus Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a bunch of asparagus in salted water for half an hour, then cut -off their heads and put them into a soup-tureen. Meanwhile boil one -quart of milk, mix three tablespoonfuls of flour and one of butter -together, and add to the milk; stir until it thickens. Rub the rest of -the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span> asparagus through a sieve and add to the milk. Take it off the -fire, season with salt and pepper, and pour it into the tureen on to -the asparagus heads.</p> - - -<h3><i>Carrot Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Put eight or ten finely sliced carrots, one onion, two heads of celery -sliced, five ounces of fresh white haricot beans, four ounces of -butter, and salt and pepper to taste, in a sauce-pan. Cook over a slow -fire for one hour, and stir from time to time. Then add about one and -a half quarts of good stock, boil for one and a half hours, and rub -through a sieve. Thin the purée with three quarts of stock, add half an -ounce of sugar, boil for half an hour, and serve with croûtons (fried -bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Chestnut Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel some roast chestnuts, warm them in butter, moisten them with stock -and white wine, and simmer over a slow fire until soft. Then pound them -in a mortar, rub through a sieve, and mix with a thin purée of game. -Heat in a Bain-marie, and serve with small croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentil Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Soak one pint of lentils in cold water all night. Strain and wash them -again, then put them in an earthen pot with two quarts of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span> broth and -simmer for one and a half hours. Fry one sliced onion, a little chopped -parsley and thyme, and one bay leaf in two ounces of butter. Add these -to the lentils and simmer for another half-hour. Rub through a sieve -and boil, season with salt and pepper. Serve with croûtons (fried -bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Lentil Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Put about half a pint of well-cleaned, dry lentils into boiling water -in an earthen pot. Be careful to remove those which float to the -surface. Leave the rest to cook until they are quite soft, then take -them out and strain them. Meanwhile mix two or three anchovies, a bunch -of parsley and some sage, and mix with some good oil in a sauce-pan. -When well browned put in the lentils. Stir well, add more oil, and cook -over a slow fire, stirring from time to time. When ready, mix in some -strained stock, and serve with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Lettuce Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Put the mealy part of four potatoes into boiling consommé, the blanched -leaves of two heads of celery, one lettuce chopped up, one pint of -green peas, and two large tablespoonfuls of flour well stirred in cold -broth. Boil for one and a half hours, and serve with croûtons (fried -bread).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil and rub two pounds of potatoes through a sieve, put them in a -sauce-pan with four ounces of good butter, a little salt, and half a -tumbler of cream (or milk). Simmer until it is thick like Polentina -(see <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_135">135</a>), then add six yolks of eggs to consolidate it to a paste. -Cut into small dice, throw them into boiling soup, and cook for five -minutes. Just before serving sprinkle a little grated Parmesan cheese -into the soup.</p> - - -<h3><i>Potato Soup ‘alla Romana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Parboil four large potatoes in one quart of water, when half-cooked -strain off the water and pour one pint of boiling water on the -potatoes; add one bay leaf, half an onion, one head of celery, and -some chopped parsley. Boil over a slow fire in an earthen pan, add two -ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix well. Rub -the potatoes through a sieve into an earthen pot, add boiling milk, a -little at a time, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkin Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Cut two or three slices of white pumpkin into small dice. Put them -into a sauce-pan with four ounces of butter, and cook till they take a -golden colour. Mince up one onion, some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span> parsley, sweet basil, celery, -thyme, and (for those who like it) one clove of garlic. Mix well, and -add two cloves, one quart of water, and some butter, or pure olive oil, -or both. Boil for one hour, serve very hot with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Pumpkin Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Take a slice (about one and a half pounds) of a large yellow pumpkin, -peel it and remove the seeds. Cut into small dice and put them into -a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, one ounce -of sugar, and half a tumblerful of water. Boil for two hours, then -drain, and put back into the sauce-pan with one and a half tumblers -of well-boiled milk. As soon as it boils pour into the tureen and add -croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Onion Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and cut three large Spanish onions in slices. Put two ounces of -butter into a frying-pan, and add the onions when the butter is hot. -Just before they are browned take them off the fire and put them into a -sauce-pan with two quarts of good stock. Boil slowly for half an hour, -and add a little pepper and salt. Strain through a sieve and serve very -hot. Add croûtons (fried bread) to the soup.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Onion Soup ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Chop up a few onions, warm them in butter, but take care they do not -brown. Stir in three tablespoonfuls of purée of white haricot beans, -add a pinch of grated nutmeg, and rub through a sieve. If the purée is -too thick add a little stock. Serve with croûtons (fried bread) in the -soup.</p> - - -<h3><i>Palestine Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Scrape and slice six or eight large Jerusalem artichokes and put them -into cold water. Then place them in boiling water, boil for one hour, -and rub through a cullender. Mix them with two ounces of butter and -three tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour them into one quart of boiling -milk, stirring continually until thick. Season with salt and pepper, -and serve with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Pea Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Shell four pounds of fresh green peas, put them in an earthen pot, -cover them with cold water, and boil for twenty minutes. Take out one -cupful of peas. Rub the rest through a sieve, and mix in an earthen pot -with one quart of milk, four ounces of butter, and two tablespoonfuls -of flour. Stir until the soup is thick, add a pinch of salt and of -grated nutmeg, and the whole peas, and serve very hot.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Polentina ‘alla Veneziana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Put two large tablespoonfuls of fine yellow Indian-corn meal into one -quart of boiling milk. Stir continually for twenty minutes to prevent -burning, then add one teaspoonful of salt (or more to taste), and four -to six ounces of fresh butter. Serve with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Sorrel Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and dry two bunches of sorrel. Chop it fine, and cook with -two ounces of butter until it becomes a pulp. Stir in one spoonful -of flour, salt and pepper to taste, and a cupful of water. When it -boils add two or more yolks of eggs and a cupful of cream. Serve with -croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil two pounds of spinach, mince fine, and put it in a sauce-pan with -four ounces of melted butter. Stir well, add salt to taste, then take -off the fire and mix in two eggs, a little grated cheese, and a pinch -of grated nutmeg. Pour this purée into boiling broth, take it off -the fire after a few minutes, and cover with a salamander; this will -coagulate the eggs and turn the purée into a soft green paste. Serve -very hot with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Soup. <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Simmer one quart of tomatoes (or tomato conserve) in an earthen pot -(or enamelled sauce-pan) with one pint of good stock (or water); add -one bay leaf, one stalk of celery, a little parsley, six peppercorns, -and one teaspoonful of sugar. Meanwhile melt one tablespoonful of good -butter in another sauce-pan, and fry one sliced onion, but do not brown -it; then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well, see that it cooks -without browning. Dilute with a little of the tomato soup, season with -salt, and add the rest of the tomatoes. Strain through a sieve, beat it -up before serving, and sprinkle small dice of fried bread in the soup.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Soup (Maigre). <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Stew eight or ten tomatoes thoroughly, then rub them through a sieve, -and put them in a pot with one tablespoonful of soda. When the foaming -is over add two tablespoonfuls of butter (a little at a time), one -teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a pinch of -cayenne. Meanwhile heat one quart of milk in a Bain-marie for about ten -minutes, and add to the tomatoes (beating well together) just before -serving.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span></p> - - -<h3><i>Turnip Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Parboil ten or twelve turnips cut into fine strips. Strain, cook them -over a slow fire in a stew-pan with a minced onion browned in three -ounces of butter, add some broth (or fish soup for maigre). Serve with -croûtons (fried bread), and one ounce grated Parmesan cheese.</p> - - -<h3><i>Vegetable Soup (Mixed).</i></h3> - -<p>Cut two potatoes and one onion in pieces. Fry the onion in two ounces -of butter till browned, then pour it over the potatoes in an earthen -pot, add two tablespoonfuls of rice, one sliced carrot, and one quart -of water. Boil for one hour, then pass through a sieve and put back in -the pot. Moisten two ounces of fine Indian-corn meal with a little cold -milk, add to the vegetables and then pour in half a pint of milk. Stir -until it boils, season with pepper and salt, and serve with croûtons -(fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Vegetable and Cream Soup.</i></h3> - -<p>Boil three lettuces, four heads of celery, two onions, a handful of -chervil, a little sorrel, tarragon, and thyme, in one quart of water -till well stewed. Strain off the herbs half an hour before dinner, let -the soup cool, and add one pint of fresh cream with the yolks of three -eggs. Stir well, put it on the fire to heat, but do not let it boil.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span></p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Spinach ‘al Burro.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, blanch, and chop up fine two pounds of spinach. Put it into -an earthen pot with fresh butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Add -two or three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a pint of milk, mixing -continually. Serve hot with croûtons (fried bread), as a garnish.</p> - - -<h3 id="crema"><i>Spinach ‘alla Crema.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash half a peck of spinach in several waters to get the grit out, and -put it into a covered earthen pan on a brisk fire. Stir now and then to -prevent its burning, and after fifteen minutes put in one tablespoonful -of salt. Cook five minutes more, then drain, and when dry chop it up -very fine. Mix one and a half tablespoonfuls of fresh butter, and one -of flour, in an earthen pot, and when half-cooked add the spinach and a -little salt and pepper. Cook for five minutes, pour in half a cupful of -good cream, and cook five minutes more, stirring constantly to prevent -burning. Serve with croûtons (fried bread), or hard boiled eggs sliced.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach Croquettes.</i></h3> - -<p>Take two pounds of boiled spinach, strain, and chop it up fine. Put it -into an earthen pan with four ounces of butter, some sweet<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span> marjoram -chopped up, allspice, sugar, and grated lemon peel. Mix well over -the fire, then put in one tumbler of milk, and when it boils add two -beaten-up eggs. When thick and cooled roll up into croquets, meanwhile -make the following batter: two handfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of -good olive oil, half a glass of white wine, and a little salt, well -mixed together. Roll the croquets in this and fry. Serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina.’</i></h3> - -<p>Clean and wash eight bunches of spinach, cook them in salted boiling -water, and then put them into cold. Dry well, chop up very fine, put -them into a sauce-pan and mix well with four ounces of butter, eight -ounces of fresh curds (out of which all the water has been pressed), -two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and three yolks of eggs. -When cold make small balls or rolls of the spinach, flour them well, -and throw them into boiling water. As they rise to the surface take -them out with a strainer, pour melted butter over them, sprinkle with -grated Parmesan cheese, and serve at once.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach Fried.</i></h3> - -<p>Put two or three bunches of spinach into an earthen pot with a finely -chopped up shallot, and two ounces of butter, and mix well. When<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span> -cooked, take off the fire, chop up very fine, add one egg, one ounce -of grated cheese, a pinch of allspice, and roll up into balls or -croquets; sprinkle with flour, and fry over a quick fire. Serve very -hot garnished with fried parsley. (<i>N.B.</i>—Any vegetable, cardoon, -cauliflower, etc., which is left over, can be fried in this way.)</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach Pudding with Mushrooms. (Bodino con Funghi.)</i></h3> - -<p>Wash a sufficient quantity of spinach well, boil it in salted water -for a few minutes, drain and squeeze out the water thoroughly; then -pound it in a mortar and finally rub it through a sieve. Then put it -in an earthen pot with a good-sized piece of butter and a few drops of -lemon juice; leave it to boil for a short time, then empty it into a -dish, and when cold add the yolks of two or three well-beaten-up eggs. -Put it into a well-buttered shape, leave an empty space in the middle, -and cook slowly in a Bain-marie for one hour with fire above and -below. When cooked, turn out on a dish and fill the empty space with -small mushrooms cut up into little pieces, which have been previously -prepared as in the recipe ‘alla Spagnuola’ (<abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_75">75</a>).</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach ‘in Riccioli.’</i></h3> - -<p>Boil a bunch of spinach and rub it through a sieve. Beat up two eggs, -season them with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span> salt and pepper, and mix enough spinach with them -to make them green. Put a little oil into the frying-pan, and when -well heated pour a little of the egg in, turning the pan about so that -the pancake should be as thin as a piece of paper, and dry. Toss if -necessary. Take it out, repeat with the rest of the egg, then take -the pancakes, place them one on the top of the other, and cut them -into pieces the width of a finger and about two inches long. Fry them -in butter and grate a little Parmesan cheese over them. They make an -effective garnish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Spinach Soufflé.</i></h3> - -<p>Take a cupful of spinach prepared as in ‘<a href="#crema">Spinach alla Crema</a>.’ Beat -up one yolk of an egg, mix with the spinach and stir over the fire -until the egg is set. Then let it cool, and before serving stir the -well-beaten whites of three eggs lightly into it. Fill china cups, or -buttered paper forms, half full, put them into a hot oven for ten or -fifteen minutes, and serve at once. If too little baked, or not served -at once, the soufflé will be spoiled.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes Broiled.</i></h3> - -<p>Slice large ripe tomatoes (without peeling them), broil or toast them -until slightly browned. Place them on a hot dish and pour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span> boiling -melted butter, mixed with a very little good wine vinegar, salt, -pepper, and mustard, over them.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘in Conchiglia.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut five or six tomatoes in half (do not peel them), put them in an -earthen pan with bits of butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. -Bake for about one hour, or until the tomatoes are soft. Meanwhile -prepare squares of buttered toast, place a half tomato on each square -of toast, pour sauce ‘alla Panna’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) round them, and -serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 1.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald, peel, and mash up eight or ten tomatoes, add one teaspoonful -of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Put a layer of bread-crumbs -into a shallow baking-dish, lay the tomatoes on them, and sprinkle with -one tablespoonful of sugar, and a few drops of onion juice. Then cover -the tomatoes with a large cupful of bread crumbs moistened with one -tablespoonful of melted butter. Bake half an hour in a hot oven, and -serve in the baking-dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 2.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel six or eight tomatoes, slice off their tops, and scoop -out a little of the inside.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span> Drop a little oil into each tomato and a -small pinch of salt and pepper, replace their tops, sprinkle them with -grated bread, salt and pepper, place each on a slice of bread in a -tinned dish, add a little pure olive oil, and bake for twenty minutes.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘al Forno.’ <abbr title="number">No.</abbr> 3.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel six or eight tomatoes, take out their seeds, and place -them in a tinned dish. Meanwhile mix one tablespoonful of flour, one -of fresh butter, four or five fresh mushrooms, some parsley chopped -up with one shallot, a little salt and pepper, and some thick purée -(or conserve) of tomatoes in a sauce-pan, and stir well. Fill each -tomato with this, sprinkle them with grated bread, put four or five -tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil in the tin dish, and bake for ten -minutes, then brown with a salamander.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘Fritti.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut six fine ripe tomatoes in half and put them in a shallow pan with -the peel downwards. Add four ounces of butter, sprinkle with pepper and -salt, and put them in the oven for ten minutes, then fry them slowly on -the fire (do not turn them). When cooked place them carefully on a hot -dish, put the pan on the fire again, and brown the butter, adding two -tablespoonfuls<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span> of flour, mix well, then add one pint of milk, and stir -until it boils. Season with salt and pepper, pour it over the tomatoes -and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘alla Graticola.’</i></h3> - -<p>Cut four or five tomatoes in half without peeling them. Put them on -the gridiron, dust them with salt and pepper, and cook over a moderate -fire. Then place them on a hot dish and pour a white sauce over them. -Serve with croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes Iced.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel small round tomatoes, ice them, and serve them whole -with sauce ‘Francese’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_123">123</a>) separate.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘all’ Indiana.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash half a pint of rice in several waters. Take two pounds of boiled -and strained tomatoes (or tomato conserve), season with a little salt -and allspice. Put alternate layers of tomato and of rice in a pie-dish, -and finish off with a layer of tomato covered with grated bread-crumbs -moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate oven for a good -half-hour, and serve in the pie-dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘al Pane.’</i></h3> - -<p>Peel and cut in slices six or more (according to the size of your dish) -ripe tomatoes, and lay<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span> them in a baking-dish with alternate layers of -bread-crumbs and bits of good butter. Season each layer of tomatoes -with sugar, pepper, and salt. The upper layer must be bread-crumbs -moistened with melted butter. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, -and serve in the baking-dish.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Pudding.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald, peel, and slice eight tomatoes. Squeeze out three-quarters of -their juice into a bowl through a cloth, then chop them up with two -tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little salt, sugar, and pepper, and a -tablespoonful of melted butter. Pour them into a well-buttered mould -and put on the lid. Place the mould in a pot of boiling water, and boil -hard for one hour; then turn out on a dish. Meanwhile heat the tomato -juice, season with sugar, salt, and pepper, mix in one tablespoonful of -butter rolled in flour, boil one minute, then pour over the pudding and -serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomato Purée.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel about eighteen ounces of ripe tomatoes, and take out -the stem end. Cut them up and put them in an earthen pan with a little -salt, pepper, a bouquet, and one sliced onion. Stir over a moderate -fire, parboil, and then rub<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span> through a sieve. Make a roux with one -ounce of good butter and one tablespoonful of flour, cook for five -minutes, then pour the tomatoes into the roux, add two ounces of meat -jelly, and reduce for five minutes. Strain through a cullender and put -into a Bain-marie until wanted.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘Ripieni.’</i></h3> - -<p>Choose twelve large and smooth tomatoes, cut off the stem end and take -out the seeds. Put four ounces of grated bread, one quarter of an onion -minced, a little salt, and two ounces of butter into a frying-pan; mix -well and then fill the tomatoes with it. Put them in an earthen pan and -cook for half an hour over a hot fire, serve very hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘al Riso.’</i></h3> - -<p>Take the pulp of six tomatoes and put it in a sauce-pan with two ounces -of butter. Cook thoroughly, then strain through a sieve, add one large -cupful of consommé, and cook till reduced one quarter. Meanwhile cook -some rice in consommé, when done add the tomatoes, stir, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes Stewed.</i></h3> - -<p>Scald and peel six large fresh tomatoes and cut each into six pieces. -Cook in an earthen<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span> pot slowly for twenty minutes with one and a half -ounces of fresh butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one of pepper, and -half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Then add half a teaspoonful of -powdered sugar, stir well, cook for two or three minutes, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Tomatoes ‘in Umido.’</i></h3> - -<p>Scald, peel, and cut into bits twelve fine tomatoes, put them into -an earthen pan and cook slowly for about half an hour. Then add one -tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of sugar, some drops of onion juice, -and a little pepper and salt. Cook for twenty minutes, and serve hot.</p> - -<p><i>Tomatoes ‘con Uova.’</i></p> - -<p>Choose round tomatoes of about equal size, and peel them. Cut off their -tops, take out their insides, and drop a raw egg into each, replace the -top as cover. Put the tomatoes into a baking-dish, and bake for about -ten minutes (until the eggs have set). Serve up on the baking-dish very -hot, with a sauce Béchamel (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_119">119</a>), or some brown gravy.</p> - -<hr class="tb"> - - -<h3><i>Truffles in Champagne.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash and brush well twelve truffles in warm water, then rinse them in -cold water and drain. Lay slices of bacon in the bottom of a stew-pan,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span> -and place the truffles on them. Put in a bouquet, sprinkle with a -little salt, add some good stock, half a bottle of champagne, and boil. -Cover the pan well, put fire above and below, and cook for one hour. -See whether they are done (they should yield to the touch), then drain -well, and serve in a folded napkin.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles and Cheese.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, and clean eight ounces of truffles, and slice them. -Meanwhile fry four ounces of butter with one or two tablespoonfuls of -pure olive oil; put in the sliced truffles with four ounces of good -Swiss cheese cut in fine slices. Mix well together over a brisk fire -for ten minutes. Season with pepper and salt, and serve very hot with -croûtons (fried bread).</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles (Maigre).</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, and clean some truffles, cut them in slices, and put them -in a stew-pan with some fish soup. Add a bouquet, season with pepper -and salt, and stew over a small fire. When done thicken the sauce with -a maigre roux, take out the bouquet, and serve hot.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles in Omelette.</i></h3> - -<p>Beat up eight fresh eggs for an omelette, add a very little salt and a -pinch of grated nutmeg.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span> Cut up fine four ounces of truffles already -boiled in Madeira wine, warm up with one pint of good gravy reduced -with Madeira wine. Make the omelette, and put the truffles in as you -turn it over.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles ‘alla Panna.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, peel, and clean twenty or twenty-four truffles, and put -them into an earthen pan with four ounces of butter, a little salt, one -glass of white Rhine wine, and three tablespoonfuls of reduced stock. -Put a layer of sauce ‘alla Panna’ (see Sauces, <abbr title="page">p.</abbr> <a href="#Page_125">125</a>) in the bottom of -a silver (or enamelled) sauce-pan, then a third of the truffles, cover -them again with a layer of sauce, add half the remaining truffles, and -some more sauce; at last the rest of the truffles must be covered with -sauce sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and browned quickly with -the salamander just before serving. The truffles may be cooked and -served in shells instead of a sauce-pan.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles Sautés.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, and clean about one pound of truffles, cut them in thin -slices, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of -butter, one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and -a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Warm over the fire, then add one -gill of broth,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span> and half a tablespoonful of flour mixed with half a -tablespoonful of butter. Stir well, boil, and serve on toast.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles Stewed.</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, and clean some truffles, cut them in slices, and put them -into a small stew-pan with three or four slices of ham, a pinch of -pepper, one cupful (or more) of good gravy, and a bouquet. Stew gently -over a small fire until the truffles are tender, take out the ham and -the bouquet, add some good brown gravy, and serve.</p> - - -<h3><i>Truffles ‘sul tovagliolo.’</i></h3> - -<p>Wash, brush, and clean some truffles thoroughly, boil with veal stock -and a glass of Madeira wine. Then serve in a napkin with good fresh -butter separate.</p> - - -<p class="center p4">Printed by T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable</span>, Printers to Her Majesty at the -Edinburgh University Press</p> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEAVES FROM OUR TUSCAN KITCHEN ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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